HM Issue #5 - March 2020

Issue 5 - March 2020

erpetoculture

agazine

Diamondback Terrapins Keeping Spiny Flower Mantids

Sailfin Dragons Baird's Rat Snakes!

Industry Spotlight : Adeline Robinson!

The wonderful world of Atheris!

Palmetto Coast

Exotics

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Unquestionable Quality Colubrids - Chondros - & More

This Issue...

Cover Photo by Terrapin Station Exotics

Pg. 3 - Editor's Note Pg. 4 -

Contributors

Pg. 5 - Coastal Diamonds: History & Care of Diamondbck Terrapins Pg. 12 -

Baird's Rat Snakes

Pg. 18 - Keeping Spiny Flower Mantids Pg. 21 - Product Review: Inkbird C206 Thermostat Pg. 22 - Industry Spotlight: Adeline Robinson Pg. 26 - Mastering Philippine Sailfin Dragons!

Pg. 32- Herp Book Review by Phil Wolf Pg. 34 - The wide world of Bush vipers!

Pg. 45 - Morelia Spotlight: The Peterson coastal Pg. 45 - In the incubator...

Copyright Š 2020 by Herpetoculture Magazine all rights reserved.

This publication or any portion thereof may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the publisher except for the use of brief quotations in a book review.

Fifth edition www.herpetoculturemagazine.com

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Editor's Note We're in an interesting time in the hobby. I like to think that we're even in one of THE best times in the herpetoculture, a golden era if you will. It wasn't so long ago that someone breeding a species no one knew much about, let alone kept, had to learn everything about the species on the spot without guidance. They learned how to be successful with a species through the tough lessons delivered by loss of time, money, and most importantly, animals. We're in a golden era because we have the internet. The internet where you can learn anything you ever wanted to know about anything! Social media as made getting in touch with veterans of a species as easy as a few clicks when before you would have had to send a letter via snail mail.

Podcasts are now sprouting up when before we only had Reptile Radio and MPR. The bug is catching and the amount of content available on herps is infinite. Between podcasts and Youtube alone, we're now in a position to be able to research huge amounts of information about a species to be better prepared when we finally get our hands on it. Long gone are the days of drool covered pages of magazines and books with our dream species staring back at us !

We hope that this publication adds to the already massive amount of great and reliable information out there on the net. We're in a special time in the hobby where keeping these animals has never been easier OR more accessible. Even with it's faults (and there are many) it's helped shape this hobby into what it is today just like our forefathers who helped propel it here.

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Justin Smith & Billy Hunt Editors-inChief

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Contributors

Justin Smith Editor @palmettocoastexotics

Billy Hunt Editor @uwabamireptiles

Phil Wolf Executive Contributor @knobtails.ig

Adeline Robinson Contributor @adeline_robinson_art

Jason Kesler Contributor/Cover Shot @terrapinstationexotics

Brett Moore Contributor @terrapinstationexotics

Melissa Hardgrave Contributor @silentnightcreatures

Nipper Read Contributor @nipperread

Kasey Schultz Contributor @zion.hill.exotics

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CoastalTheDiamonds history and care of

Diamondback Terrapins

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By Jason Kesler & Brett Moore

An Interesting History The diamondback terrapin is a brackish water turtle. Found from Cape Cod Massachusetts, all the way down and around the Florida coast to Texas.

The history of the diamondback terrapin is an interesting one. The near demise of the species included a soup bowl and a bottle of Sherry.

Years ago, terrapins were an abundant species.

SO abundant in fact, that they became a main staple for a quick meal in colonial America. Fast forward to the early 1900’s. The terrapin turned from a quick, cheap meal into a delicacy.

Terrapin soup became so popular and profitable, that the turtles were almost wiped out to point of extinction. Many northern populations were so depleted, that people started traveling down the east coast to collect wild specimens of the southern subspecies. As these subspecies were collected, they were brought to ranges outside of their own. Many of them became foundation animals for breeding stock at terrapin farms, living and breeding in large concrete ponds.

The unlikely hero saved the day for diamondback terrapins? Prohibition! When prohibition hit, people were no longer able to use one of the main ingredients in the soup.

Sherry. Once the liquor was removed from the soup, people soon realized that turtle soup without the liquor didn’t taste very good.

It didn’t take long for terrapin soup to no longer be the meal of choice. So what happened to all of these terrapin farms consisting of collected mixed subspecies?

They were dumped into the local coastal waterways. What is interesting about this is that, to this day, you will come across wild northern specimens that exhibit traits of their southern relatives, and vice versa! The diamondback terrapin has been making a steady comeback ever since.

"When prohibition hit, people were no longer able to use one of the main ingredients in the soup. Sherry. Once the liquor was removed from the soup, people soon realized that turtle soup without the liquor didn’t taste very good."

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Why Diamondbacks?

Can you remember the first time you saw a Pied Ball Python? How about an IMG BCI or a Black Dragon? Animals like this represent more than just new morphs, colors or patterns within a species. They represent possibilities. Possibilities to selectively breed animals that display new traits which have never been created before. Those possibilities are the driving forces which motivate the dedicated people in our hobby.

The second reason having an effect is somewhat related to the first. In our modern world full of instant gratification, most people aren’t willing to put the time into waiting the years it takes to be able to breed most chelonian species.

Because of this, poaching wild animals has become a major problem. This not only hurts wild populations of the turtles we love, but it can also turn the turtle breeding community into somewhat of a shady place at times. A Google search will shed light on this problem if you’re unfamiliar with how significant it is.

The Chelonian world is somewhat late to the morph party in some respects. Just over the past 10 years alone, the hobby has been able to see some of the different slider morphs, box turtle variations and even snapping turtle variations become more commonly available on the internet. From what we can tell, there are two reasons for this.

The choice to breed Diamondback Terrapins was an easy one for us. 1) They are so much cooler than other turtles. 2) With 7 unique subspecies, the potential for variations and morphs is far greater than with most other species. 3) They don’t get too large for the average hobbyist to keep. 4) Terrapins have more personality than any reptile we have ever kept. 5) Did we mention how much cooler they are than other turtles?

The first, and most obvious reason, is most chelonians take significantly longer to sexually mature than their other coldblooded relatives. So, even if you were the lucky person to hatch the first albino of your favorite turtle species, you would be looking at anywhere from 2-7 years before you could try to prove it out with most commonly kept species and significantly longer for others.

We are definitely not the first people to breed Terrapins and hopefully we aren’t the last, but we feel like the party is somewhat just getting started for this species. With less than 30 albino terrapins known to be in existence in the world (most of which are in China), the development of true genetic morphs is just beginning. Within just one of the seven subspecies there are 6 different skin colors, 5 skin marking patterns and 4 common shell patterns.

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These are just the naturally occurring variations one could observe in wild terrapins down the gulf coast of Florida! Just imagine what will be produced when albino, hypo and melanistic animals are more commonly available. This is the stuff that gets us excited!

Many new people in our little corner of the hobby scour Kingsnake or FaunaClassifieds, buy up a bunch of terrapins and throw them into a melting pot tub and hoping for the best. While this can produce some great looking terrapins (we have seen some incredible ones produced by others using this very method), we are taking a different approach.

Over the past 3 years, we have methodically built our breeding groups to include the most unique diamondback terrapins we could find from most of the seven subspecies. We now have over 100 terrapins in our groups and we have 17 different breeding tubs set up. This allows us to single out the animals we are wanting to pair together in order to prove out the traits we are shooting for.

Selectively breeding turtles is somewhat like being a pioneer. There is very little literature on the subject and if you ever want to venture into this crazy turtle world, you will also find that many experienced breeders simply won’t help others “learn the ropes” and share tips or helpful information with aspiring breeders.

That’s a mentality that we want nothing to do with. There is nothing new under the big sun that shines on all of us and if someone genuinely wants to learn about something we have experience with, we are happy to help if we are able to. Our passion for this species and the breeding potential within it has us excited everyday and we genuinely love meeting others who share the same love for terrapins that we have found.

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Keeping DBTs As far as keeping diamondbacks in captivity, we have found that they don’t seem to necessarily need social interaction with other turtles. So keeping just one is not a problem.

In our opinion, a male diamondback terrapin is the ideal pet water turtle. The maximum size of a male is 5 inches, and often times they will only grow to 3-4.5 inches. However with that being said, keeping multiples is a lot of fun! And if you plan on breeding them, we recommend having more males than females.

In our opinion, you could keep 3 males and 2 females comfortably in a 150 gallon tub. Give or take. One thing to watch for with hatchling diamondback terrapins, is that they are ravenous eaters. If you are keeping multiple hatchlings together, there is a high chance they will nip each others toes and tails.

We like to keep them separate until they are around 2 inches and even at 2 inches, we try not to keep too many of them together in one tank.

It seems that once they hit that 2.5-3 inch mark, they aren’t as nippy and have an easier time cohabitating with one another. Again, this is our opinion, and what we have experienced.

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Once summer comes to an end in Illinois, we will heat our facility to mimic the still warm Florida season. As Florida air temps drop, we begin to drop our air temps as well. As water temps drop in One of the highlights of our passion is Florida, we drop our water temps. We do the same breeding. It’s an amazing feeling when you with daily light cycles. Fewer hours of light have worked so hard to dial in your husbandry, combined with lower air and water temperatures, and the turtles are happy and healthy enough puts the turtles into brumation. to give you eggs.

Breeding

The basics of breeding diamondbacks is simple.

They need clean water to swim and spend most of their time in, a place to bask, and an area of sand at least 8” deep to lay eggs in.

Getting them to actually lay fertile eggs is another story.

What has worked for us, is loosely replicating each subspecies natural environment. For example. The ornate diamondback comes from Florida. Living in Illinois can make that challenging. So, we use artificial heat and light to achieve our goal.

Some of the turtles will stay slightly active, and some will choose either water or sand to sleep, sometimes for multiple months. Because they are in a brumation state, they are able to go without food for many many weeks. We still offer them small amounts of food if/when they are active and as long as the water temps aren’t too cold for their digestive systems to process the food.

As the seasons begin to warm up in Florida, we begin to raise our temperatures. In our observation, raised temps seems to provoke breeding behavior. Once breeding begins, it takes roughly 3-4 weeks for the females to lay eggs.

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This is where it can get tricky for the untrained eye. There are usually indications that a female is ready to lay, but there are almost always one or two females in a group who can surprise you. The typical signs are the following: She will begin to act slightly frantic. She will start to sniff around the nesting area, looking for that perfect place to lay.

We try to create as many heat and moisture variations in the sandbox as we possible. This gives the nesting female options. Once they find their ideal nesting location, the digging begins. From time to time, they will dig a nest, and not lay eggs for whatever reason. Once the perfect spot is found, and the eggs are deposited into the nest, they burry the eggs, and pack down the sand.

It can be almost impossible to locate the nest if you aren’t prepared. To help us locate nest sites, we use cameras that notify us when there is activity in the sandbox. Even if we don’t catch them laying the eggs, we can observe nesting behavior, therefore knowing eggs will be soon to follow. Sometimes if a female seems unable to find the perfect spot, we will block them in the sand box, and eventually, they find an acceptable spot to lay.

Once eggs are located and recovered from the nest, we prepare a container to place them in for incubation. Incubation time depends on the temperature that the eggs are being incubated at. The lower the temperature, the longer the incubation period. The higher the temperature, the quicker the incubation period.

Eggs incubated at or under 81 F will produce all males, almost 100% of the time. Incubating eggs at 84 F and above will produce mostly female hatchlings, and temperature in between those will produce a mix of males and females. One risk of higher incubation temperatures is possible scute deformities.

Once the baby terrapins have hatched, we keep them in the incubator with a moist paper towel until their yolk sac has absorbed. At this point we introduce them to shallow, warm filtered water. As they grow, we increase the depth of the water in their enclosures.

For more info on DBTs, follow @terrapinstationexotics 11

The Rat Snake Made of Metal

By Justin Smith

The current state of the hobby sees a lot of colubrid species becoming a staple or phasing in and out of the hobby. One species in particular has never really had a “heyday” like we’ve seen with Mexican Black Kings, Grey-Banded Kings, or the current Croc Monitor craze. It is a species that is right here in our own backyard here in the States. That species is the Baird’s Rat Snake.

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I’m amazed at the amount of messages and conversations I have with people where this species is either not known about entirely or very little is known aside from one seeing them at a show or briefly online.

One of the author's young females starting her color change

I like to say that Pantherophis bairdi is a “cryptic” species in the hobby. Many people see hatchlings for sale on tables at shows only to gloss over them in the mix of other species because to most hobbyists it’s just another standard, grey rat snake.

What they don’t realize is that this species goes through an incredible color transformation, they have a ton of variation, and they’re incredibly easy to keep!

Years prior, I remember seeing an article at one point that highlighted the intense silver and orange adults that have become the phenotypic poster child for the species. It was after reading that piece that I kept a vigilant eye out for Baird’s on the various classifieds.

By a stroke of luck an adult popped up on my local craigslist listings and I snagged it.

I kept it for a while and really enjoyed how calm and inquisitive that individual was.

But after a while I had a sizable collection that was getting to be too much so I sold almost everything, Baird’s included. The snakes had left but the interest in these rat snakes never did.

Fast forward to 2016. I find myself at an expo in Charleston, SC empty handed and disappointed that I didn’t find anything that was on my hit list. I made one last round and somehow missed a pair of Mexican Baird’s being sold. I tossed the idea around for a few minutes only to end up leaving with the pair.

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One of the original Baird's the author got circa 2016.

Where They're From P. bairdi are native to an oddly shaped patch of Southwest Texas, slightly across the border into Mexico and then a separated population down just south of Monterrey, Mexico. I’ve heard multiple accounts about this species being one of the rarest/hardest to find in the country however, that seems questionable.

People DO find them on a regular basis cruisings the rock cuts and roads that Southwest Texas is famous for.

The range of P. bairdi *from iNaturalist.org A yearling that is clearly due for an upgrade to a bigger tub!

As you can imagine, the native range of this species is dry, shrublands that see around 19 inches of rain per year. I often call them the Bredl’s Pythons of the U.S. because the conditions they experience and thrive in don’t appear to be too different. They see hot summer days and cold winter nights. This thermal flexibility is one of a few reasons this species makes for excellent captives!

Easy Keepers Bairdi might be one of the easiest U.S. species to keep! For neonates, a 6 quart tub or something slightly larger works fine but be prepared for them to outgrow it in no time. From there I upgrade them to a 15 quart tub and once they’ve maxed that out they go into at least a 34 quart hefty tub. This is a very active species that will utilize anything you give them.

Since they naturally occupy the rock cuts along highways and other rocky areas they will climb if you give them the opportunity.

For substrate I prefer a loose particulate like Care Fresh (which I’m partial to). In my experience with these snakes keeping them on paper towel or a similar substrate is pointless because they constantly flip their water bowls and you will be cleaning out a wet cage regularly.

Once I moved mine to Care Fresh that water bowl flipping stopped entirely so I firmly believe this species appreciates a loose substrate like aspen or Care Fresh. Oddly enough, I don’t find them digging or burying themselves in it very often but when I do it’s usually younger neonatal individuals.

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Hides can be as simple or extravagant as you want them to be. Paper towel tubes, snack boxes, plastic hides sold commercially, all of these are fine options for Baird’s and they will use them regularly.

Temps are very straight forward with this species. A hot spot of the usual 86-88F or so suits them perfectly. Most of my group has a hot end that’s closer to 90F that they will use but it’s not uncommon to see them hanging out at the cool end of the tub. While I haven’t tried it myself but I think that, like Bredl’s Pythons, if you didn’t give them heat and kept them at room temperature they would do just as well. Having said that, I still recommend giving them the option of a heat source. It’s just nice to know that in the event of a power outage they’ll be fine if temps drop into cooler zones!

Enrichment has been a big part of the herpetocultural conversation lately. A handful of my colubrids will get a bit of a challenge with food from time to time.

I simply take a small snack box (pop tarts, fruit snacks, whatever you have on hand) cut a small hole that’s big enough for the snake to get in and out of WITH a meal in stomach, drop a f/t mouse in and then leave it in the tub. If you watch them it really forces them to figure it out.

When I think of enrichment this is the kind of practice I think is beneficial. It stimulates their brain, behaviors, and gets them a little more active.

Neonate Baird's look pretty "standard" for a rat snake

A young Loma Alta locality baridi

A good example of a Mexican Baird's Feeding Baird’s Rats is also fairly standard compared to their North American relatives. I feed neonates and juveniles an appropriately sized mouse weekly that they take aggressively.

My only issue with feeding this species has been a few individuals that were shy or nervous, dropping food after they’ve grabbed it because I was moving or hovering over them. For the most part feeding is as easy as just dropping food in the tub and letting them find it.

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One of the best things about these rat snakes is how calm and easy to handle they can be.

Of course there will always be exceptions to the rule but a large majority of Baird’s Rats are very tolerant of human shenanigans. In my group I have several individuals that are much more nervous than the rest but even those animals rarely attempt to bite. Instead they rattle their tail and musk like crazy!

It has been well documented that even wild bairdi are mostly calm and unlikely to bite in self-defense. In the rare instance that you do take a bite, it’s completely inconsequential.

A yearling Loma Alta locality produced by Dan Parker

What Makes them Different There are few species native to the states that go through the color change that this species does. As I said before, a big reason they get passed over on tables and online is because neonates look very similar to other rat snake species at the same age. People see them not realizing what they can turn into as they grow!

It’s this color change and the sheer variation you see the species alone that is easily my favorite thing about them.

Across their range you get a large amount of variation in color with some having higher orange and some having higher silver and even some that sport an incredible combination of both. The Loma Alta / Highway 277 locality is the poster child phenotype for the silver scales with the bright orange “cracked lava� look. With this combination some specimens almost look purple! You can see a lot of this variation by looking up the species on inaturalist.

There are two varieties of the species. One being the Texas localities and the other being the Mexican variety. Mexicans are not common in collections but are differentiated by having a silver head that stands out from the rest of the body coloration. Texans, on the other hand, have a uniform color from head to tail.

An adult Mexican Baird's. Note the gray head distinguished from the neck

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The pearl-esque look of an albino The only known morph in Baird’s is the T+ albino. The T+ and hypomelanistic terms for the morph are often interchange or mixed up but it is in fact a simple recessive T+ albino gene. This morph is interesting because it takes what would normally be the silver color and makes the scales look like they’re made out of pearl.

Pictures don’t do it justice!

So next time you’re at a show and you happen to see a Baird’s Rat on a table, I hope you think of this article and decide to give them a shot. I truly believe they won’t disappoint and the species as a whole needs more people keeping them! Whether it’s one animal kept for enjoyment or a group for a cool new breeding project, this species needs more appreciation.

For more awesome Baird's content follow Justin @palmettocoastexotics 17

r e w o l F y n i s d i Sp t n Ma

a s is l e e v M a y r B g d r a H

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Why a Praying Mantis?

Pet ownership, in my opinion, is always directed to the cute and fluffy. However, there has been an increasing popularity to insect keeping over the years, that puts “cute and fluffy” into a whole new perspective. It’s not difficult to see the stereotypes that revolves around insects or even keeping them as pets. Just do a quick search on the topic of spider keeping and you’ll see the common “kill it with fire” phrase being overly used and unwarranted. Mantids are becoming extremely popular and for many great reasons. They are beautiful, inquisitive, veracious, but to some they are menacing, and the stuff nightmares are made of. What if I said, insects can have that cute and fluffy persona we desire when having a pet?

Mantids come in a variety of colors, sizes and shapes.

Some require special conditions and care, while others are relatively simple. Let’s look at Mantids, Spiny Flower Mantids to be exact Pseudocreobotra Wahlbergi), they are absolutely gorgeous and extremely smart. Spiny Flower Mantis, I find are very curious, very simple to keep, and love to eat a variety of foods; which is why I chose them over all other species. My Spiny Flower Mantids are not adults just yet but will be within two months or so. When I first received them, they were L3 instar reddish black little aliens, ready to feast upon Hydei Fruit Flies and Blue Bottle Fly larvae. Today they are between L5 nymphs subadult.

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Because of the stereotype behind insects, I wanted to offer something different to not only my students, but to people who think of them as scary or weird. Through my experience with Mantids, I create videos and pictures of them walking on my hands, eating, drinking and grooming themselves. The idea is to allow people to see just how “cute” they are when they turn their heads to look at you or get into their little war dance if you happen to frighten them. Being a teacher, I encourage anyone to step outside the norm and seek a pet through research first, in order to gain a better understanding of the care behind each creature they bring into their homes.

For this reason, I will be conducting an inschool field trip in the spring to 40+ students who can gain a first-hand experience with my Mantids. All my invertebrates will be on display for students and colleagues to view and touch, it is my goal to take this experience beyond on my own school and into other environments.

Let’s face it, we need our insects and if we can shed light on just how silly stereotypes are, then maybe we change the view of mammals and birds being the only cute and cuddly animals out there. Mantids make amazing pets and take “cute” to a whole new level.

My terrariums and care routine

Spiny Flower Mantids are a beautiful species found in Africa. They’re known for their greenish-yellow swirl pattern on their white wings, when opened it looks almost like the number nine. Females are larger than males and will typically make a meal out of their mate if given the opportunity.

Spiny flower mantids are solitary just as most species are and prefer dryer environments as adults.

Whereas younger Spiny’s prefer a little more moisture, typically at 60%..

In captivity, Spiny’s can live for up to a year growing around 3-4 inches when they reach adulthood. They are an extremely hardy species and more forgiving than others if something is a little off, however with proper care, they will surely thrive.

Mine are kept in separate, custom made, terrariums that are fully ventilated, have a variety of things to climb and hang on, and kept on a plant germinating heating pad to maintain an ambient temperature of 77-85 degrees. I mist their enclosures every other day to maintain a humidity of around 50 -60%.

They do receive a light cycle of 12 hours daylight. When they are adults, I will move them into a netted enclosure with a live plant. The reason is, young Spiny Flower Mantids prefer more humidity than adults, so their enclosures now, are able to hold more humidity.

Food Every day I offer blue bottle fly larvae or flies, as babies tend to eat more than adults. Sometimes I incorporate waxworms, butter worms, and small Dubia roaches into their diet. My mantids seem to love larvae and waxworms over anything else.

Follow Melissa on Instagram @silentnightcreatures 20

Product Review

Inkbird C206T Thermostat

By Justin Smith

Thermostats are easily one of the most important pieces of hardware hobbyists use and rely on regularly. Whether it’s a single cage, a rack, or an incubator, thermostats are vital to help us do what we do! There are plenty of good options on the market that fit virtually any need. In a search to find a stat that does what I need it to do but also doesn’t break the bank I stumbled across the Inkbird C206T. Inkbird is a company based in China that focuses on temperature control devices for aquariums, reptiles, and plants. They offer a decent selection of products that vary in price and functionality but the C206T has been a favorite of mine since I’ve come across it.

The thing I like the most about this unit (costing a whopping $35-$40 on Amazon) is the simplicity. It plugs straight into a wall or power strip and then your RHP or other heat source plugs straight into it. However, this may be a downside to some because that also means you can’t have more than 1 per outlet (they do take up some space) and only a few will fit on a standard power strip.

If you only have a few heating elements to run then these stats are a perfect option. If you have a lot of spaces to heat up then a “heavy duty” product like a herpstat 4 or something similar would be my recommendation.

Temperature Control Range: -50~100°C / -58~212°F Ambient Temperature: -30~75 °C (-22°F~167°F) Temperature Resolution: 0.1°C / 0.1°F Temperature Accuracy: ±1°C / ±1°F Input: 100~265VAC 50/60HZ Maximum Current: 10A/13.5A Maximum Power: 1100W/1500W (110V)

As for setting up the temps you’d like to have the stat maintain, it’s fairly simple. Each one comes with instructions that are easy to understand. The C206 model just has two options for a high and low temp that you want to keep the set up in between. The C206T model offers the option to set a timer for a certain temp you’d like to keep a cage night like a night drop.

For a thermostat under $50 this is hard to Included with the C206T is a probe that plugs beat. Would I trust an incubator with it? Not by directly into the side of the unit. This probe is choice but if it was my only option I wouldn’t attached to a 6.56 ft cord which leaves you sweat it nearly as much with this unit. For the plenty of room to work with for probe handful of species I’m using this unit on placement. One thing that has consistently currently I’m more than satisfied with it. This impressed me with this product is the accuracy. model from Inkbird is very much worth looking Out of the box these thermostats are very into if you’re looking for a stat that does the accurate! job and doesn’t break the bank.

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Industry Spotlight Adeline Robinson Art and Illustration If you're on social media then there is a very good chance you've seen Adeline Robinsons' work. Whether it is a logo she's created for some of the top breeders or pieces she has for sale, we wanted to get to know the artist behind the art!

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HM: For people who are out of the loop, who are you and what do you do?

AR: My name is Adeline Robinson and I am a wildlife artist & graphic designer with a focus on reptile, fish and equine art. I draw and paint reptiles of all different species and offer logos, portraits, fine art and graphic design work. I’ve worked in the exotic animal industry since 2007 and use my experience with animals to make my drawings realistic and anatomically correct.

HM: Have you always been the artistic type and at what point did you start doing animal pieces?

AR: Yes! I was very lucky to have been raised in a household with many different types of pets and have been drawing them since a very young age.

I started using my pets as models for my drawings, doing more and more research on anatomy and care guides as I got older. Animals have always been my main subjects and I am just fascinated by the diversity of so many amazing species and the beauty each of them has to offer.

HM: How much of what you do is commission pieces vs pieces you just feel like doing?

AR: Currently most of what I do is commission work with a few of my projects in between. I have a long list of personal pieces to keep me busy and I am actually in the process of going full-time with my artwork so I can really put myself into my work. I have so many ideas and animals I would love to paint, but haven’t had the time, so I’m looking to change that.

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"I really want to exceed people’s expectations and like any artist, I can second guess my artwork sometimes.

Overall though, I’m really thankful " HM: How does it feel doing so many logos for so many different people?

AR: It’s a mix of emotions! I am honored that people enjoy my work enough to have my artwork represent their brand. I am excited, because I get to do what I love: drawing really neat animals and exercising my creativity in their designs.

Lastly, there’s usually just a teeny hint of nervousness. I really want to exceed people’s expectations and like any artist, I can second guess my artwork sometimes.

Overall though, I’m really thankful and excited to be working on these cool projects.

HM: What media do you prefer to work with or what media do you use the most?

AR: It’s hard to pick a preferred media, since they can all offer different techniques & results, but in the last couple years, I have been experimenting and playing with copic art markers with micron pens the most and have been having a ton of fun with them, I’d say I’m not doing digital work, It’s been mostly markers. The blendability of the markers is so satisfying, and the technical precision of the micron pens is pretty impressive.

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HM: Outside of art, what are you keeping?

HM: Have you ever bred? If not, do you have plans to eventually?

AR: I don’t keep much anymore since I’ve downsized. I’m actually at the lowest amount of animals in over ten years but my main project is breeding tree monitors. I keep macraei, kordensis, beccari and would love to add some reisingeri or prasinus to the collection next.

AR: Yes, I currently have all my tree monitors in pairs, with one trio and have successfully gotten eggs from the kordensis, though eggs from them are yet to hatch. The female just layed last week so I have her eggs in incubation. Keeping fingers crossed that all goes well! I’m also breeding Gargoyle and Crested geckos as well. I used to mostly breed ackies & rhacodactylus geckos, and have assisted in the breeding of several other species as well at my old jobs.

Some of the other herps I’m currently keeping include Gargoyle geckos, Crested geckos, and my retired educational animals, a Merauke Blue Tongued Skink, Ball Python and a Reticulated Python. I used to keep many different species of varanids, rhacodactylus geckos, reticulated pythons, colubrids, arboreal boas, iguanas, agamids, etc. but decided to downsize so I could spend more time on my work as well as better focus and specialize on tree monitors.

HM: What’s your dream species?

AR: My number one goal right now is to have an infinity gauntlet of tree monitor trios, but a bell’s phase lace monitor, a crocodile monitor and a few crocodilian species are definitely in my daydreams. One day I’d love to have a planted display terrarium with a species of Boiga or Atheris.

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HM: What are your goals for your work in 2020?

AR: My main goal is to be able to create art that people love, to continue to better my artwork and to be able to use my skills as an artist to help aid in awareness and conservation for these amazing animals we have on our planet. I try to give back to the community as much as I can, and hope that the more I can do, the more I can help. I’d love to continue to develop my skills as an artist, and to be able to put all of myself and my focus in my art career.

Stay up to date with all the awesome stuff Adeline is working on by following her on FB or IG @adeline_robinson_art

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   26



The Philippine Sailfin Dragon, Hydrosaurus pustulatus, is an oviparous lizard that is endemic in the Philippines. Hydro meaning water and saurus meaning lizard, they spend their time near mountain streams and in the tropical rainforest. They are equipped with flattened toes and a “sail” like tail that helps propel them through the water where they can remain submerged for long periods of time.

There are three recognized species in the genus Hydrosaurus; amboinensis, pustulatus and weberi, and are the largest lizard in the Agamidae family. The Philippine Sailfin Dragon is recognizable by its stunning magenta and indigo coloring and have been referred to as resembling modern-day dinosaurs. Males develop more of this coloring as they age and can reach approximately three and a half feet in length. Although females are not as large and do not develop the same level of coloring as their male counterparts, they are as equally impressive with patterns of yellow, green, and brown.

Being that the Sailfin is such an incredible lizard, it’s unfortunate to know that they are on the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) Red List as a vulnerable species.

Destruction of their natural habitat in the Philippines has drastically reduced their population numbers. With specialized environment needs, habitat loss is detrimental to their status and makes the need for conservation efforts even more imperative. And although there have been efforts, such as the Philippines “Wildlife Resources Conservation and Protection Act” enacted in 2001 to conserve natural resources and habitats, the Sailfin Dragon is often hunted for food and is illegally collected for the pet trade, which impacts their already dwindling numbers.

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 Due to the Sailfin’s large size and need for constant access to fresh water, creating the ideal enclosure is critical to their wellbeing in captivity. My journey to the perfect enclosure has been long and is still evolving, with my adult enclosures ranging in size up to 6 feet long, 3 feet deep and 6 feet tall. All custom built, I started with wood which led to mold and humidity issues and now construct fully waterproofed enclosures made of stone. Since they require substantial amounts of water to drink, bathe and defecate in (yes, they use their water as the bathroom), it is essential to provide fresh water at all times.

We recently implemented filtration systems in some of our enclosures to prevent stagnant water and bacteria. In addition, daily “showers” are highly suggested. If you consider their natural habitat, they experience plenty of rainfall throughout the day, which I try to replicate in their captive environment. You will often see them drink from the sprayed water and even clean themselves with their large feet. As arboreal lizards, their enclosure should consist of multiple basking spots, which can be achieved with large branches and ledges, and areas of shade to cool down in. Optimal temperatures are 115-degree basking spots with an 80 to 85 degree ambient temperature. Mercury vapor bulbs work great to achieve both UVB and heat levels but should be supplemented with additional UVB and heat sources depending on the enclosure size.

Although the ideal enclosure would be all glass to view these stunning lizards basking and swimming all day, nose rub is a prevalent issue and therefore visual barriers must be used. In my experience, a visual barrier at least three feet high on all sides of the enclosure is sufficient. Avoid any type of wire that they can rub their faces against and also take into consideration maintaining a high humidity level when choosing materials. Cypress mulch is our suggested substrate since it holds humidity and does not mold easily.

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

Sailfin Dragons are omnivores whose diet consists of items from the insect, animal, fruit and vegetable groups. My adults are offered salads every other day that are a combination of, but not limited to, chicken, turkey, eggs, collard greens, escarole, dandelion greens, kale, squash, peppers, carrots, strawberries, blueberries, bananas, kiwis and mangos. Avoid using too much fruit, as excessive sugar is not healthy. In addition, they are offered superworms, hornworms and dubia roaches weekly and pinkies monthly. Hatchlings are offered crickets daily, finely chopped salads a few times a week and butterworms, waxworms and mealworms occasionally.

All insects and salads should be dusted with calcium and vitamin D3 supplements. It is best to offer food in the morning so they can spend the remainder of the day basking in the heat, which aids in digestion of key nutrients and supplements.

 “Are they aggressive,” is the most frequent question I am asked by people interested in Sailfin Dragons. My answer is always no, but they do have varying levels of tolerance for interaction. I have a few that will allow me to pet them and pick them up with no problem and I have others that become skittish when I simply walk by their enclosures.

With that said, of all the reptiles I have kept, the Sailfin Dragon is one lizard that with time and patience can learn to trust you. For example, I obtained an adult male a few years ago and he was terrified of me. I could hardly put a bowl of food in the enclosure without him running into the walls and injuring himself. I found the best way to gain his trust was to give him space, and over time, he grew accustomed to me. It is fascinating because I am now the only person he allows in his enclosure. This is one of the main reasons why I appreciate these lizards so much. It might be a long journey for a few of them, but with lots of patience you can gain their trust and experience how calm they can be.

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 I have been fortunate to successfully breed the Sailfin Dragon in captivity. There is little information available about breeding, so my first experiences were on a trial and error basis. I lost a few eggs along the way, but have a higher hatch rate as my knowledge grows. In my experience with breeding, the most challenging part of the process is finding a tolerable pair. A few of my Sailfins have bonded, some only tolerate short interactions for breeding purposes, while others are aggressive and cannot be put together at all. It is crucial to their health and wellbeing that both the male and female are of similar size and mature age. When putting a pair together, it is important to monitor their behavior for signs of aggression and elevated stress levels. Females will begin to lay infertile eggs around two years of age and typically lay two clutches of approximately four to eight eggs. When females reach the egg-laying age, provide them with a lay box made of sand and dirt, as they will bury their eggs in this substrate.

In my experience, eggs have been successfully hatched when incubated for 65-75 days at 85 degrees

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 Although there is an adequate amount of care and background information on Sailfin Dragons in books and on the internet, I found answers to any questions or concerns beyond general care information was hard to find. After acquiring my first Philippine Sailfin Dragon and having only a basic knowledge of their care, it became evident that they needed optimal conditions in order to thrive in captivity, which is why I would not consider them a beginner reptile. As I acquired more Sailfins, my list of questions and concerns grew. Some of my Sailfins weren’t eating, some were so skittish they would injure themselves when I got close to them and some were getting minor to severe nose rub.

After feeling discouraged about my ability to care for this dream species, I became determined to figure out the best way to keep them happy and healthy. After numerous modifications to their enclosures, water systems, feeding and handling techniques and heat and humidity levels, I have now had the opportunity to successfully keep over 10 adult Sailfin Dragons and many hatchlings and juveniles. I’ve found that each one has different requirements and personalities, which, in my opinion, makes it even more exciting to work with them.

I am by no means a professional on the subject matter, but I am able to offer this care advice from many years of hands-on-experience with these incredible lizards. Even after working with a variety of other reptiles, the Sailfin Dragon is by far the most remarkable in my opinion and can be a rewarding reptile for the experienced keeper if given the proper care and a little patience.

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 @  

Herp Book Review: The Naming of the Shrew:A Curious History of Latin Names By John Wright Review by Phil Wolf There was once a time when I was more proactive on Facebook. And right around that time, so was world renowned herpetologist Mark O’Shea, Sc.D. Every so often, I would notice that Dr. O’Shea had posted a book recommendation on his Facebook feed.

I’d take a glance at it, see if I already owned it, (owned, knowing me, probably not read) and continue my mindless scrolling. But this time, he had posted a picture of a little tan book with a rodent on the cover. “The Naming of the Shrew: A curious history of Latin names.” By John Wright. I was immediately enamored.

It came as a medium sized hardback, about an inch and a half thick, with a lovely textured tan paper jacket.

Around the borders of the jacket were faint sepia stampings of different plant and animal species, accompanied by their scientific names, appropriately italicized. I immediately opened up to the publication page and table of contents. A British publication from 2014 with 17 sections from prologue to index.

Since I was a young lad, Latin names and taxonomy has been somewhat of a secret crush of mine. A crush I have openly accepted and obsessed on as an adult. Vintage text, from a dead universal language, describing fascinating species was something I had to learn. And this book seemed to be a good addition to my nerd library, especially if Mark O’Shea recommended it.

Upon receiving the book from Amazon, ($26) it appeared to be the perfect weekend reader. You know the type, the book you could bang out on a long snowedin weekend, or a few days during hurricane season with no electricity.

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The main body of literature is broken down

by Roman numerals I through X. This greatly appealed to me because I knew I would never get a chance to sit down and fully read it cover to cover. I could skip around from section to section, reading what appealed to me most, first. This would also allow me to go back and re-read particular sections without having to find them traditionally.

Of the 10 sections, each one was named perfectly to coincide with their content.

“Why do we use Latin Names?” “The Language of Naming.” And “The Father of Taxonomy,” to name a few. I didn’t quite know exactly what I was looking to get out of this book.

But everything presented to me I wanted to read. Growing up I was always told to skip to the middle of a book, read a few pages to make sure you like it, and then start reading from the beginning.

I really wanted to start with chapter V, “The Rules of Naming.” But I decided to blindly open the book and whack out a few random pages.

Amazingly I jumped right into section II “The Names There Are” just as Mr. Wright is explaining the quasi-backstory of Linnaeus’ Furia infernalis. Those of you reading this, need to get this book just for that story alone.

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I personally feel the most important aspects of this book are the way the author breaks down what a species is. His educated explanations of taxonomy, how species get their names, and what those names mean allows the reader to understand what they’re reading, and enjoy it while they’re doing so. Mr. Wright coins it perfectly, “The names themselves are the heroes of this book...”

As someone who has difficulty immersing themselves into a novel or story, I found this book not only fascinating, but easy to be captivated by. I wanted to know more!

As far as natural history and science go, this book is five out of five stars! But if you’re bored easily by Science stories or just don’t care why Thorny Devils are named Moloch horridus, then don’t read this book. Whether you’re an undergrad writing a paper on binomial naming, or you’re a herper who wants to better understand those fancy names we all throw around, I highly recommend this book. “The beginning of wisdom is to call things by their right names” (Chinese proverb).

Review by Phil Wolf@knobtails.ig

The Wide World of Atheris Vipers With Nipper Read

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The genus Atheris, currently comprises of fifteen species of small, heavily keel scaled, arboreal vipers. These vipers are distributed in sub-Saharan African and are typically encountered in primary forest, cloud forest and disturbed forest edges. Some of the species of Atheris are very prominent in the hobby, whilst some are totally unavailable. For this article I will cover the species available to the hobbyist. Firstly the “highland “ forms.

Usambara Bush Viper

Atheris ceratophora

Once common in the hobby, this species is now extremely hard to legally acquire due to the export restrictions on reptiles from Tanzania. Captive bred specimens fetch an extremely high price.

Identification

This iconic viper is easily identifiable by its triangular head, covered in keeled scales which form a cluster of “horns” above each eye. This tiny viper may reach 55cm, but most often the adult size is around 40cm.

The colouration is extremely variable, often yellow with black speckling, but may be green, yellow orange, black or even brownish. Neonates are dark brown or black until they have had multiple sheds.

The tail is noticeably prehensile and lighter coloured.

Distribution

Atheris ceratophora is a species endemic to Tanzania. It is found from low to medium elevations and is known to inhabit forest areas at over 2000m. Atheris ceratophora is found in the Usumbara, Nguru, Uluguru, and Udzungua mountains.

Venom The venom of Atheris ceratophora contains procoagulants and haemorrhagins. The relatively low LD50 rating and small amount of venom delivered means bites from this species are potentially, but unlikely to be fatal.

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Habitat

Often encountered in low bushes, as in all Atheris, this species is primarily arboreal.

They can however be encountered on the forest floor when hunting. Ceratophora will remain sedentary for long periods of time, sitting in ambush position, The diet of this species is predominantly amphibians, however reptiles and small mammals may also be taken.

Breeding takes place in September to October, with neonates commonly encountered in March to May. As this is a montane species, night time temps are consistently low, with winter day temps as low as 6 degrees. During this time the snakes will enter a dormant period, not feeding or moving.

Matilda's Bush Viper

Atheris matildae

This species is a new species to the Atheris genus, being discovered in 2011. However many matildae exist in the hobby after being mislabeled and imported as Atheris ceratophora. Like ceratophora, wild caught specimens of this species are no longer legally available.

Identification Superficially identical to Atheris ceratophora, however this species grows much larger, with adults reaching over 60 cm.

Distribution & Habitat This species is native to the southern highlands of Tanzania. Matildae is a viper of montane forest habitat. The distribution of this species has been withheld to prevent collecting for the pet trade. This montane species experiences great temperature fluctuations, with high day temps, and night temps as low as 6 degrees.

Venom The venom of Atheris matildae contains procoagulants and haemorrhagins. The relatively low LD50 rating and small amount of venom delivered means bites from this species are potentially, but unlikely to be fatal.

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Mount Kenya Bush Viper

Photo courtesy of Tomaz Jagar

Atheris desaixi

This species is occasionally available to the hobbyist, predominantly as wild caught imports. Their rarity in the hobby ensures available specimens command a high price.

Identification

Atheris desaixi is a large bodied viper, with a distinct triangular head. This species can reach 70 cm in length. A beautifully marked snake, with a background colour of green, yellow and black with light scale tipping, giving a bobbled appearance.

Photo courtesy of Tomaz Jagar

Distribution & Habitat This species is endemic to the Southern Highlands of Kenya, with distinct populations in Nyambene, Northern Nyambene ranges and Mount Kenya itself. Typically arboreal, desaixi are found in primary forest and forest edges along cultivated land. Usually encountered sitting in bushes at around 2 – 3 m above ground. This species feeds on amphibians, reptiles and birds.

Venom The venom of Atheris desaxi contains procoagulants and haemorrhagins.

This species has a large head and large venom glands, bites from this species are potentially fatal.

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Photo courtesy of Tomaz Jagar

Great Lakes Bush Viper

Atheris nitschei

A favourite amongst venomous keepers, this species is regularly captive bred in Europe but still commands a high price.

Identification

Photo courtesy of Tomaz Jagar

Distribution & Habitat The range of this species spans from the Democratic Republic of Congo, to Rwanda, Burundi, Tanzania and Uganda.

This species is a montane wetland specialist, and is always associated with water bodies of some description. Commonly found at altitudes of 1,600–2,800 m. It is common in reeds and papyrus bushes, where it will hunt along water courses for amphibians.

Nitshei are known to eat a variety of amphibians and reptiles, notably Jacksons Forest Lizards and chameleons. Breeding takes place in April – May with females giving birth in October – November.

This is a large but slender viper, attaining lengths of over 70 cm. The snake is a vivid green, with a distinct black broken zig zag pattern. The underside is pale green to yellow.

The tail tip is pale, and may be used for caudal luring.

Photos courtesy of Tomaz Jagar

Venom

The venom of Atheris nitshei contains procoagulants and haemorrhagins.

The relatively low LD50 rating and small amount of venom delivered means bites from this species are potentially, but unlikely to be fatal.

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And now the “lowland species”

Variable Bush Viper

Atheris squamigera

Atheris squamigera or squams as they are commonly known are one of the most popular hots in the hobby. The ease of care, sedentary habits and huge colour variation make them ideal captive specimens.

Identification Atheris squamigera grows to an average total length of 46 to 60 cm, with a maximum total length that sometimes exceeds 78 cm. Females are usually larger than males.The head is broad and triangular and covered with keeled, imbricate scales. The dorsal colour varies from sage, dark green, bluish, olive or dark olive brown, orange, yellow, reddish, orange slate gray or the most highly prized black. The scales have lightcolour keels and sometimes yellow tips that form a series of 30 or more light crossbars. Neonates have a dark, olive coloration with some barring, however the adult colour pattern develops within 3 to 4 months.

Distribution & Habitat

Atheris squamigera is found in West and central Africa,from the Ivory coast to Ghana, eastward through southern Nigeria to Cameroon , southern Central African Republic, Gabon, Congo and Democratic Republic of Congo, Angola, Uganda and Tanzania. squamigera occurs primarily in tropical forests and areas with dense vegetation where small reptiles and other prey animals are abundant.

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This species is most commonly found at elevations ranging from 100 to 400 m in elevation. A. squamigera occurs most often at lower elevations, which tends to support greater vegetation densities. In general, A. squamigera resides in moist, terrestrial, and arboreal habitats throughout its geographic range.Breeding takes place in April – May with females giving birth in October – November.

Venom

Bites from this species have resulted in at least one report of severe hematological complications, as well as two deaths. Although no specific anti-venom is made for the Atheris group, anti-venom for the genus Echis, the saw scale viper, has been shown to be partially effective in neutralizing Atheris venom

Broadley's Bush Viper Atheris broadleyi

Split from Atheris squamigera in 1999, the Broadley's bush viper is extremely popular in the hobby, particularly in Europe, the ease of availability of wild caught specimens coupled with the stunning colouration ensures a place in many collections.

Identification

Superficially, Atheris broadleyi resembles Atheris squamigera, however scale counts differ. There is also a pale stripe behind the eye. The huge colour variation of squamigera is not seen in Broadleyi, with specimens being mainly green, green and yellow or bronze.

Distribution & Habitat Native to Cameroon, Central African Republic. Atheris broadleyi is a forest dweller often encountered at forest edges.

Its natural history is the same as Atheris squamigera.

Venom

Hemotoxic. Similar to the venom of Atheris squamigera.

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Western Bush Viper

Atheris chlorechis

The vivid green colour and the ease of attaining wild caught specimens make this species very popular in the hobby.

Identification Adults average 50 cm in total length with a maximum total length of 70 cm . Adults have a uniform light green ground colour, overlaid with a series of faint yellow, roughly paired spots running dorsally along the length of the body. Neonates are dark in colour, but this changes to a yellow-green hue with irregular dark spots after the first shed.

Distribution & Habitat Chlorechis inhabit Ghana, Guinea Bissau, Guinea, Sierra Leone, Ivory coast, Togo, and Benin. Similar to Atheris squamigera, found in bushes, forested areas, often a few meters off the ground in ambush positions. Atheris chlorechis feeds on reptiles, amphibians and small mammals.

Venom The same as Atheris squamigera with Heamotoxic components.

Potentially life threatening.

Photo courtesy of Erika Ostanek

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Photo courtesy of Erika Ostanek

Captive care of Atheris Firstly let us consider that Atheris species, although relatively small, are still venomous and potentially life threatening. Atheris species have caused fatalities in the past and are entirely likely to cause an allergic reaction.

Fatalities aside, envenomation will still be painful, with a wide range of systemic symptoms including swelling , nausea and necrosis. As with all venomous species a period of mentoring is recommended before keeping personally. Please ensure your State or County allows the keeping of venomous animals.

The highland Atheris are in my experience are very sensitive to prolonged periods of high temperatures, and as such are not suitable to be kept in a snake room with species that require high stable temperatures. Lowland Atheris species are more tolerant and can be kept in a building with a higher ambient temperature.

Mine seem to do well in mid-range 80-84 degree day time highs, with a small night drop.

I keep my Atheris individually in locked medium arboreal Exo-terra vivariums. I find these vivariums allow good airflow and are easy to maintain. I use an eco earth substrate, seeded with arthropods. The vivs are furnished with numerous branches and a mixture of live and plastic plants.

Lighting is on a 12 hour cycle, with a natural dawn from the window, followed by lights on until just before dusk. A natural dusk will occur after lights out.

As far as light for each viv, I use a jungle dawn to promote plant growth and an Arcadia Pro UV kit on each viv. Although this genus are predominantly nocturnal, my animals are often out basking under the UV in the daytime. Be mindful that your lighting does not raise the temperature in the viv too much.

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Regarding temperatures, for the montane species I would recommend a day time temperature no higher than 82 degrees, with a significant night time drop.

As such, I do not heat my highland Atheris, the lighting provides a hot basking spot, and the ambient room temperature stays around 80 degrees in the day time. At night with lights off, the temps drop to around 70 degrees in summer and 65 in winter. I have had no health issues with these temps, the snakes look extremely healthy and breeding has occurred.

Humidity is also an important factor, the highland species occur in a relatively humid environment and as such a background humidity of 60 – 75 is ideal.

I spray in the morning as lights come on, and again just prior to lights being switched off. Good air flow is import to prevent bacterial growth, ensure the substrate dries out between sprays to prevent water logging.

Atheris will drink from water bowls, but seem to prefer drinking away from the ground , so raised water containers and daily spraying of vegetation are best. For the lowland species, I spray once a day before lights out, and ensure the substrate does not become water logged.

The lowland species will require a “dry period” with no spraying for a few months, obviously with access to a water bowl. Constant high humidity is detrimental to lowland species health.

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A gorgeous red squam

Feeding both highland and lowland Atheris is normally straightforward. In my experience most adults will readily take frozen thawed mice of appropriate size, however I try not over feed with mammal prey as it is not a massive part of the natural diet of this genus.

Atheris has evolved to predominantly feed on reptiles and amphibians, occasionally invertebrates and birds. With all snakes in my collection I try to mimic the natural diet as much as possible. I use house geckos, frogs legs and day old quail.

Breeding is down to prey, light, temperature and humidity cycling, in my opinion. I place males into the female vivariums at the end of March, the temps have been progressively lowered from November, then raised slightly at the beginning of March, feedings have been bimonthly in August and September, then once a month in October and November, ceasing in December. The female is fed prior to the male being placed in her vivarium. This genus may exhibit cannibalism.

A lot of Atheris keepers also use earthworms. I feed every three weeks or so, Atheris have a good prey response and easily become obese, leading to health and breeding problems.

Neonates are live born around October and are minute. the neos are hard to get started with feeding, and I find mourning geckos are ideal to kick start an interest in food.

If necessary assist feeding with pinky parts can be undertaken. The neos are set up in locked exo-terra nanos. Light, heat and humidity parameters are the same as for adults. The neonates are particularly sensitive to low humidity and high temps.

I not saying everyone should keep their Atheris in this way, but this method has worked over the years for me. Atheris are beautiful, interesting , hardy and easily bred hots. I would recommend anyone that is building a venomous collection consider this genus!

Disclaimer: Nothing written in this magazine is encouraging or convincing the reader to act in any manner or to perform any action with any venomous species. You as the reader are fully responsible for your actions taken as a result of reading the information provided here.

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Morelia Spotlight Peterson Coastal Carpet Pythons

By Billy Hunt

What is a Peterson Coastal Carpet? There is not a lot of information out there on Peterson Coastals. As of this writing, only Eric Burke (EB Morelia and MPR) and I have any Petersons that aren’t crossed with any other line of striped coastals in our collections. When it comes to coastals, there are Tigers that originated from Jason Baylin and Russian Tigers that trace back to animals from the Moscow Zoo. Then, there are obviously striped coastals that pop up in random clutches because carpets are just so variable. The Peterson “Line” started with a breeder named Shea Peterson about 15-20 years ago. If anyone reading this thinks the Peterson name sounds familiar, he had an ad banner on the MP Forums for years. He got a pair of striped coastals from Dan Mulleary (DM Exotics) that were not related to Tigers or Russian Tigers. From there, Shea decided to selectively breed those animals and other striped coastals until he achieved the striped look we have today.

From the one breeding I’ve done so far, they come out with wide unbroken dorsal stripes and they can either have solid or broken lateral stripes. They also seem to throw really clean stripes and stripes with a lot of speckling within the dorsal stripe. They have a granite like appearance under their lateral stripe to their belly. Once they hit adulthood, they have this gray stone like color with black borders. Definitely an attractive snake. You can tell that generations of selective breeding was done to achieve the look they have. This is one of my favorite projects that I’m working with. Really excited to revive this line that was almost lost to the hobby forever.

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In The Incubator...

- Bangkok Herping

- Red Eyed Croc Skinks

- The best Vivarium Plants!

- Maternal Incubation with Morelia

AND MORE!

Thanks to all our contributors for helping make this issue possible! More importantly thank YOU, the reader!

Please be sure to follow us on Facebook and Instagram (@herpetoculturemagazine) We hope you enjoyed it! Justin & Billy 46