Out Traveler 30 Winter 2023

IMPORTANT FACTS FOR BIKTARVY®

This is only a brief summary of important information about BIKTARVY and does not replace talking to your healthcare provider about your condition and your treatment.

MOST IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT BIKTARVY

BIKTARVY may cause serious side e ects, including: Worsening of hepatitis B (HBV) infection. Your healthcare provider will test you for HBV. If you have both HIV-1 and HBV, your HBV may suddenly get worse if you stop taking BIKTARVY. Do not stop taking BIKTARVY without first talking to your healthcare provider, as they will need to check your health regularly for several months, and may give you HBV medicine.

ABOUT BIKTARVY

BIKTARVY is a complete, 1-pill, once-a-day prescription medicine used to treat HIV-1 in adults and children who weigh at least 55 pounds. It can either be used in people who have never taken HIV-1 medicines before, or people who are replacing their current HIV-1 medicines and whose healthcare provider determines they meet certain requirements.

BIKTARVY does not cure HIV-1 or AIDS. HIV-1 is the virus that causes AIDS.

Do NOT take BIKTARVY if you also take a medicine that contains: dofetilide rifampin any other medicines to treat HIV-1

BEFORE TAKING BIKTARVY

Tell your healthcare provider if you:

Have or have had any kidney or liver problems, including hepatitis infection. Have any other health problems. Are pregnant or plan to become pregnant. It is not known if BIKTARVY can harm your unborn baby. Tell your healthcare provider if you become pregnant while taking BIKTARVY.

Are breastfeeding (nursing) or plan to breastfeed. Do not breastfeed. HIV-1 can be passed to the baby in breast milk.

Tell your healthcare provider about all the medicines you take:

Keep a list that includes all prescription and over-thecounter medicines, antacids, laxatives, vitamins, and herbal supplements, and show it to your healthcare provider and pharmacist.

BIKTARVY and other medicines may a ect each other. Ask your healthcare provider and pharmacist about medicines that interact with BIKTARVY, and ask if it is safe to take BIKTARVY with all your other medicines.

POSSIBLE SIDE EFFECTS OF BIKTARVY

BIKTARVY may cause serious side e ects, including: Those in the “Most Important Information About BIKTARVY” section.

Changes in your immune system. Your immune system may get stronger and begin to fight infections that may have been hidden in your body. Tell your healthcare provider if you have any new symptoms after you start taking BIKTARVY.

Kidney problems, including kidney failure. Your healthcare provider should do blood and urine tests to check your kidneys. If you develop new or worse kidney problems, they may tell you to stop taking BIKTARVY.

Too much lactic acid in your blood (lactic acidosis), which is a serious but rare medical emergency that can lead to death. Tell your healthcare provider right away if you get these symptoms: weakness or being more tired than usual, unusual muscle pain, being short of breath or fast breathing, stomach pain with nausea and vomiting, cold or blue hands and feet, feel dizzy or lightheaded, or a fast or abnormal heartbeat.

Severe liver problems, which in rare cases can lead to death. Tell your healthcare provider right away if you get these symptoms: skin or the white part of your eyes turns yellow, dark “tea-colored” urine, light-colored stools, loss of appetite for several days or longer, nausea, or stomach-area pain.

The most common side e ects of BIKTARVY in clinical studies were diarrhea (6%), nausea (6%), and headache (5%). These are not all the possible side e ects of BIKTARVY. Tell your healthcare provider right away if you have any new symptoms while taking BIKTARVY.

You are encouraged to report negative side effects of prescription drugs to the FDA. Visit www.FDA.gov/medwatch or call 1-800-FDA-1088.

Your healthcare provider will need to do tests to monitor your health before and during treatment with BIKTARVY.

HOW TO TAKE BIKTARVY

Take BIKTARVY 1 time each day with or without food.

GET MORE INFORMATION

This is only a brief summary of important information about BIKTARVY. Talk to your healthcare provider or pharmacist to learn more.

Go to BIKTARVY.com or call 1-800-GILEAD-5

If you need help paying for your medicine, visit BIKTARVY.com for program information.

BIKTARVY, the BIKTARVY Logo, GILEAD, the GILEAD Logo, GSI, and KEEP BEING YOU are trademarks of Gilead Sciences, Inc., or its related companies. Version date: February 2021 © 2022 Gilead Sciences, Inc. All rights reserved. US-BVYC-0008

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ON THE COVER

32 FAMILY TRAVEL

Actor Jonathan Bennett and husband Jaymes Vaughan founded a travel company so they’d never have to travel without their (queer) family.

COMING ATTRACTIONS

Our cover stars, Mean Girls ’

Jonathan Bennett and his husband, TV host Jaymes Vaughan, believe travel is better with family — queer family. I happen to agree.

Don’t get me wrong, visiting Venice 31-years-to-the-day of our rst date was so romantic in part because my wife and I were alone together. But the next day we did an LGBTQ+ history tour of the city with a local gay guide, and it was amazing to have that insight (see page 28). Hearing about a transgender Venetian from the 1300s gives me a personal connection. We’re here. We’re everywhere. We’ve always been here.

That sentiment is also behind the HBO hit We’re Here, that sees three queens travel across the U.S. putting on drag shows in small towns. Bob the Drag Queen, Shangela, and Eureka O’Hara share insights with us (page 67). The fact that you can nd queers outside the usual LGBTQ+ hotspots is part of why we decided that this year’s list of top U.S. destinations (page 44) should include full states (and one territory) rather than singular cities.

Of course, traveling with straight folks isn’t a recipe for disaster. I had a fantastic time (despite wrecking an e-bike and scooter) on my recent adventure to Alberta, Canada (page 30). While my traveling companions weren’t queer, we kept running into folks who were. We had deep conversations about what it means to be LGBTQ+ in places around the world, and how the travel industry can make us feel more welcome.

That was also a topic at IGLTA’s 2022 international LGBTQ+ travel conference held in Milan, Italy. While there I nally met (in person) several of our regular contributors. Paul J. Heney (the second

from right in this group photo of our LGBTQ+ tour group) writes about Milan and shares insights from the IGLTA conference (page 19).

Jonathan Bennett and Jaymes Vaughan recognize the power (and safety) that come from traveling with others from the LGBTQ+ community. That’s why they founded their own travel company, OUTbound. The couple, who tied the knot in 2022, talk to Out Traveler about their relationship, their company, their dream wedding, and why being out is so liberating (page 32).

Olympic skier Gus Kenworthy tells us (page 16) he discovered that himself, and coming out showed him the sport wasn’t as homophobic as he thought it was. Now he’s hanging up his skis and looking at what’s next.

For sexpert Zachary Zane, what’s next is a new book, Boyslut, in which he explores his wide-flung sexual adventures. He shares one with us in this issue’s Wanderlust (page 78), recalling his experiences at a steamy Turkish bath.

While not everyone wants that intimate of an experience, a recent study (page 12) showed that queer travelers are looking to connect with other LGBTQ+ people when they travel. We want to connect with local LGBTQ+ communities wherever we go. And we want to do our part to make their lives (and our world) better. Here at Out Traveler, we believe travel has the power to do just that.

In 2023, I hope you nd queer family out there, on the journey, or at your nal destination.

Anderson-Minshall Editor in Chief @outtraveler

On a Rocky Mountain Sidecar Adventures tour of Calgary, Canada

With an LGBTQ+ tour of Milan Cathedral in Italy

The editor in Venice, Italy

Peyto Lake in Canada’s Banff National Park

Jacob Anderson-Minshall #ImTransAndITravel

DEBBIE OLSEN (PEYTO); COURTESY JACOB ANDERSON-MINSHALL (ALL OTHERS)

Jacob

ORIGINAL. ONE. ONLY. THE

THE GOLDEN AGE OF TRAVEL is back in The Palm Beaches. As America’s First Resort Destination®, genuine hospitality is a way of life with a vibrant blend of people, cultures, and coastal towns to welcome everyone. Inspired cultural attractions, refined dining and upscale shopping are calling.

EVENTS

What a Ball!

Equalpride throws amazing parties — and gives back to the community. There’s no place to let the good times roll like the Big Easy — especially at the end of October. Parties abound, but one is legendary: Halloween New Orleans. The multi-day HNO party is also a fundraiser for Project Lazarus which provides funds to Louisianans living with HIV. This past Halloween, the event was co-sponsored by Out and Out Traveler (along with Virgin Hotels New Orleans).

The black-tie Queen’s Ball and Silent Auction fundraiser started things off at the Ogden Museum of Southern Art, featuring music and drag performances. The Nightmare in Wonderland party followed Saturday night with RuPaul’s Drag Race favorite Aquaria taking the stage, while the Mad Hatter’s Tea Dance closed out the weekend Sunday night.

The glitterati gathered at New York’s Nebula nightclub this past November to celebrate the 2022 Out100 — Out magazine’s oldest and grandest tradition compiling the year’s most impactful and in uential LGBTQ+ people.

Out (Out Traveler ’s sister publication from equalpride) uses the Out100 to showcase the artists, creatives, policymakers, game-changers, and heroes making the world a better place. And to celebrate, many honorees and friends attended the annual event.

One of the evening’s most stunninglydressed honoree was queer author Aurelle Marie, who arrived sporting Grammy-winning bisexual singer Lizzo’s dress (which the star wore at the 2019 American Music Awards)!

Other Out100 honorees who made an appearance included trans Jeopardy champ Amy Schneider; dancer, bodypositive influencer, model, and host of CBS’s Come Dance With Me, Dexter Mayfield; the Old Gays, four TikTok stars bringing visibility to queer senior citizens; and Minneapolis City Councilwoman Andrea Jenkins who, ve years ago, became the rst out bisexual, transgender African American woman elected to o ce in the nation.

We’re thrilled to share some of the best moments captured at these events!

Halloween New Orleans images are by photographer Roland Fitz. Out100 party images were photographed by Yeka Gyadu.

HALLOWEEN NEW ORLEANS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The Queen of Hearts reigns over Halloween New Orleans; pop star Jake Wesley Rogers vamps for the cameras; the Mad Hatter Dance’s dj smiles with a guest

OUT 100

OPPOSITE Out100 honorees, friends, and loved ones gather at NYC’s Nebula nightclub to celebrate changemakers in the LGBTQ+ community, including TikTok sensations the “Old Gays” (bottom)

ABOVE Out100 honorees in attendence included writer Aurielle Marie (top), in a dress gi ed to her by Lizzo; and body-positive model, dancer, and host, Dexter May eld

Hi there! As CEO of equalpride and publisher of Out Traveler, Plus, The Advocate, and Out, I wanted to congratulate Out ’s incredible Out100 honorees, many of whom joined us at our party at Nebula nightclub in New York City. We had tastemakers, activists, and heroes represented, like transgender Jeopardy! champ Amy Schneider (pictured with me above).

Please visit out.com/out100 to read more about our honorees and their work — and please enjoy this issue of Out Traveler. I welcome feedback and ideas, so please feel free to reach out at advocatemarkb@equalpride.com, IG @advocatemarkb

Regards, Mark Berryhill Chief Executive O cer

OUT TRAVELERS

Contributor Zachary Zane, who shares his exploits in this issue’s Wanderlust (page 78), is a Brooklyn-based columnist, sex expert, and activist. He pens the advice column “Sexplain It” at Men’s Health and the relationship column “Zach and the City” at Queer Majority. His work has also appeared in The New York Times, Rolling Stone, Washington Post, GQ , Playboy, Cosmo, Daily Beast, and The Advocate. He is the founder of Boyslut Zine, which publishes non ction sex stories from kinksters across the globe. His own memoir-manifesto, Boyslut, comes out in 2023. Through the lens of his bisexuality and (much self-described) sluttiness, the book breaks down how society shames people for the sex they have and the sexualities they inhabit.

NOTE FROM THE CEO

COURTESY (ZANE)

Warmest

COMING ATTRACTIONS

Not-to-Miss Events

By Jacob Anderson-Minshall

12TH ANNUAL AMERICAN INDIAN TWO-SPIRIT POWWOW

February 4, 2023, San Francisco

The Bay Area American Indian Two-Spirit (BAAITS) organization sponsors an annual powwow for LGBTQ+ Native Americans that is one of the oldest and largest in the nation. Unlike many traditional powwows that separate dancers along binary gender categories and heterosexual couplings, the San Francisco events are open to all genders, and same-gender couples are welcome. (baaits.org)

THE OUTING FESTIVAL

February 10-12, Dromoland, Ireland

Ireland celebrates its rich tradition of matchmaking with festivals devoted to love — but for the longest time, queer singles were le out. That is until Eddie McGuinness founded the Outing Festival devoted to LGBTQ+ love. This year the event is being held at The Inn at Dromoland in the romantic setting of Dromoland Castle Estate. Touted as The World’s Only Music, Matchmaking & Queer Arts Festival, it features music, comedy, queer arts, performers, and drag artists. (theouting.ie)

SYDNEY WORLD PRIDE

Febuary 12-March 5, Sydney, Australia

Sydney’s Mardi Gras is one of the largest Pride events in the world. But this year’s is going to be on steroids as the Australian city plays host to WorldPride as well. Some of the stand-out events will be Live & Proud: Sydney WorldPride Opening Concert, Mardi Gras Fair Day, the three-day LGBTQIA+ Human Rights Conference, and Blak & Deadly: The First Nations Gala Concert featuring Aboriginal and Torres Strait LGBTQIA+ artists performing at the iconic Sydney Opera House. (sydneyworldpride.com)

Top 5 LGBTQ+ Ski Weeks in 2023

Hit

MATES’ SNOWBOUND LEATHER WEEKEND XV

February 24-26, Provincetown, Massachusetts

Leathermen and aficionados of rubber and uniforms ock to P-town in winter to brunch, drink beer, dance, and strip down to chaps and jockstraps. The debauchery is all in the name of charity. The crown of Mr. Snowbound 2023 goes not to the man with the biggest package, but the guy who raises the most money for the AIDS Support Group of Cape Cod.

By Shauna Farnell

Aspen Gay Ski Week

Aspen, Colorado, January 15-22

Home to the world’s first and longest running gay ski week, AGSW celebrates its 46th year this January. The iconic event includes ambassador-guided skiing and riding on three of Aspen’s mountains (AJAX, Snowmass, and Highlands) as well as daily aprés-ski soirees, nights out on the town, dance parties, drag bingo, a downhill costume contest, and an evening of music and comedy with Sandra Bernhard.

Winter Rendezvous

Stowe, Vermont, January 18-22

Dubbed “the best gay ski week in the east,” Stowe’s annual winter Pride festival draws hundreds of LGBTQ+ skiers and riders of every level for five days of exploring the resort’s 116 trails. Additionally, this year’s 40th anniversary celebration will include ice skating, dog sledding, hot tubbing, bonfires, pool parties, drag bingo, and live performances, including a Tina Turner tribute concert by Debby Holiday.

Whistler Pride and Ski Festival

Whistler, British Columbia, Canada, January 22-29

Celebrating its 30th year, Whistler’s winter Pride event ranks among the world’s largest. Skiers and riders can find immediate bonding and learning experiences with groups of every level. There’s a ski parade, massive pool party, snowball fight, roller disco, art walk, charity ski race, and a slew of rotating après and dinner plans.

Utah Gay Ski Week

Park City, Utah, February 22-26

Launched 13 years ago by Elevation founder Tom Whitman, Utah’s annual celebration has grown every year, hosting queers and friends from all over the world. This year’s event features guided skiing and riding at Park City and nearby Deer Valley as well as themed costume aprés-ski meet-ups, dinners, and dance parties.

Telluride Gay Ski Week

Telluride, Colorado, February 25 – March 4

Gus Kenworthy’s stunningly beautiful hometown has thrown down every winter since 2002. For 2023, SBG Productions (producers of the ski town’s blues and jazz festivals) takes over Telluride Gay Ski Week. Kicking o with the historic Telluride AIDS Benefit Fashion Show, it will include guided ski groups, live music, happy hours, pool parties, yoga, an art walk, sleigh ride dinner, and drag brunch.

OLIVIA’S 50TH ANNIVERSARY CARIBBEAN CRUISE

February 19 - 26, the Caribbean Olivia, founded as a women’s music company before transforming into the largest vacation company for queer women, celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2023. The celebratory cruise makes stops in Turks and Caicos, St. Thomas/ St. John, Puerto Rico, and the private island of Half Moon Cay, Bahamas. The onboard entertainment promises to thrill older and new fans alike.

Jasper Pride & Ski Festival

Jasper, Alberta, Canada, April 14-23, 2023

This rugged town in the Canadian Rockies becomes even more picturesque when sprinkled with rainbow flags. Celebrating its 14th anniversary with 10 days of skiing and snowboarding at Marmot Basin as well as on-mountain costume parties, fun races and ski parades, live music, drag bingo, burlesque parties, and both family and teen-specific events.

AROUND THE GLOBE

Reclaiming Our Names

Erasing derogatory location monikers from the map.

By Desirée Guerrero

U.S. SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR, Deb Haaland, made history in 2021 when she became the rst Native American to serve as a cabinet secretary. As a proud member of the Pueblo of Laguna people and a 35th-generation New Mexican, one of Haaland’s rst orders of business was to correct wrongs in the naming of federal lands in the U.S.

In November of 2021, Haaland signed two o cial orders. The rst declared the word “squaw” derogatory and started procedures to remove it from federal usage. The term, an o ensive colonial slur for Indigenous women, is unfortunately still used in the names of locations across the country.

The second order directed the National Park Service to establish a new committee to identify existing federal land and geographic feature names considered derogatory and recommend potential replacements.

Transforming Travel

LGBTQ+ people want more out of their journeys.

By Neal Broverman

A NEW ILGTA FOUNDATION report explores how the pandemic scrambled our expectations for queer travel and the opportunity for a global reset.

Authored by Peter Jordan, Going Further: How to Make LGBTQ+ Travel Transformational for Travelers, Communities and the Planet uncovered a deep desire for more responsible travel: trips with reduced environmental footprints and vacations that pay more attention and respect to the destination’s local queer and POC communities. Respondents indicated they want to patronize queer-owned businesses, but many would also like to contribute to an LGBTQ+ community project while on vacation.

Jordan suggests those who do business in queer travel — from travel advisors to tour operators and hotel managers to airline executives — need to meet ve new goals: Lighten their environmental footprint, re ect the diversity of the LGBTQ+ community, increase their social impact, employ LGBTQ+ travel as an agent of transformation in emerging destinations, and drive community change through travel.

In a practical sense, meeting the rst goal involves increasing carbon literacy, developing a sustainability strategy, evaluating which tours put pressure on fragile locations, and using social media to share advice on reducing carbon footprints.

Supporting communities means training employees to expect and embrace diversity, amplifying minority voices (including in marketing channels), ensuring queer spaces and events for people of color, building alliances with LGBTQ+ and POC nonpro ts, and ensuring tours respect local issues and cultures.

Last year, on the International Day of the World’s Indigenous Peoples (August 9), Haaland announced the 17 new members of the Advisory Committee on Reconciliation in Place Names.

“Our nation’s lands and waters should be places to celebrate the outdoors and our shared cultural heritage — not to perpetuate the legacies of oppression,” said Secretary Haaland. “The Advisory Committee on Reconciliation in Place Names will accelerate an important process to reconcile derogatory place names. I look forward to listening and learning from this esteemed group.”

The group has already been busy. In September, the Department of Interior announced it had nalized new names for nearly 650 geographic features across the country.

Later that month, California Gov. Gavin Newsom followed Haaland’s lead by signing AB 2022 into law, requiring the term “squaw” be removed from geographic names and public places throughout the state. This ensures that places not located on federal land such as the “Squaw Valley” ski area near Lake Tahoe, also have to remove the slur.

SHUTTERSTOCK (LAKE); COURTESY U.S. DEPT OF INTERIOR (SECRETARY DEB HAALAND); CASARSA GURU/GETTY IMAGES (TRANSFORMATIONAL TRAVEL)

Deb Haaland

Emerald Bay in Autumn in South Lake Tahoe, California, beautiful alpine lake

OUT GEAR

The Gear You Need In 2023

Gucci Maxi GG Lace-up Boot

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REI Sahara Convertible Hiking Pants

The only convertible pants that don’t require you to remove your boots when switching from pants to shorts or back. Thick, rugged, water repellant, quick wicking yet lightweight and breathable. ($79.95, rei.com)

Peak Design Wash Pouch

Incredibly durable toiletry bag, recycled synthetic materials, just wash it out with a wet cloth and wipe dry. Hook hangs bag for more space. ($59.95, peakdesign.com)

Tiki Smokeless Patio Firepit

BY DONALD PADGETT COURTESY MAKER (ALL)

A work of art that actually works. Easy to light wood fire that stays lit. Patented airflow technology reduces the smoke to a bare minimum. ($395, tikibrand.com)

Thule Compression Cube Set

These durable and rugged compression packing cubes help you cram more into your luggage – without the broken zippers and torn seams of cheaper brands. (starting at $24.95, thule.com)

Alicia Adams Alpaca Rib Throw

This alpaca wool throw is trimmed with alcantara (vegan suede). Thin and lightweight it is surprisingly e ective against the cold. Fair-trade made in Peru. ($695, aliciaadamsalpaca.com)

Frederick Benjamin Beard Regimen

This Black-owned company’s all-natural Conditioning Beard Cleanser and Hydrating Crème hydrates and so ens with a light citrus scent. The cooling bergamot helps fight itch. ($20, frederickbenjamin.com)

Pet Bowls Pamper your puppers and kitties while upgrading the look of their dinnerware with these porcelain bowls and canisters from the iconic gay designer’s graphic hand-painted stripes motif. (starting at $125, jonathanadler.com)

Monte And Coe Wool Weekender Bag in Nude

Ethically hand-made from Italian wool and premium Italian veg-tan leather, this stylish du el is perfect for short getaways or long weekends. Detachable shoulder strap. ($700, monteandcoe.com)

Off-White Snow Goggles

Be a trendsetter with these red gradient-e ect cylindrical mirrored lenses from the ultra-cool fashion house. With anti-fog technology for optimum peripheral vision. ($545, o ---white.com)

Jonathan Adler Vice

Up in The Air

Gay Olympian Gus Kenworthy on breaking boundaries, and what’s next now that he’s left the slopes.

By Shauna Farnell

The world’s most prominent and successful LGBTQ+ winter sports athlete, Gus Kenworthy, landed numerous World Cup wins and podiums throughout his career as a professional freestyle skier. He won the silver medal in the 2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi, Russia and then came out in 2015. His visibility gained him Human Rights Campaign honors and reached new heights when he famously kissed his boyfriend between competitions during the broadcast of the 2018 Olympics in South Korea.

He retired from professional skiing last winter following his third Olympics, the 2022 Winter Games in Beijing, China. Since then he’s pivoted to Hollywood, with appearances on RuPaul’s Drag Race, American Horror Story, and the MTV series The Challenge

The 31-year-old took a few moments to share some thoughts about his journey as a skier, the ski industry’s evolution in supporting the queer community, and what lies ahead for him.

What personal challenges did you encounter as a gay athlete on the slopes?

I learned really young and immediately fell in love with the sport because it quickly became our family’s favorite pastime. I actually always felt like skiing itself was a really freeing experience. When you’re skiing, you’ve got the feeling of wind on your face and the sound of it in your ears and because you have to be present and aware of your surroundings, you kind of end up tuning out everything else that’s going on in your life and in your head. It’s very meditative. However, the industry and environment surrounding the sport always had an air of machismo and the language that got thrown around for much of my childhood was inherently homophobic.

In competitive skiing, what were your biggest hurdles as an LGBTQ+ person?

A lot of the hurdles that were in my way were things that I was self-projecting and putting in my own way. Because of the language that was so commonly used I really believed that my sport was not a safe space or welcoming place for me to be my true self. A er coming out I was met with so much support amongst my competitors that I realized I had been wrong to doubt many of them. As obvious as it was to me, they hadn’t previously had context to realize that the language they were using was hurtful. Quickly after my announcement I noticed a shi in the way people were talking and saw them making a conscious e ort to be more mindful with their word choices, which meant a lot.

You came out in 2015. Why did that seem like the right time?

I had actually never intended to come out while I was competing. I always thought I would nish my career in the closet and then get to come out and live my truth. Because there had never been an openly gay professional skier or any out professional athlete in any of the various action sports…I worried I would lose sponsors and, in turn, lose my place within the sport. Ultimately, after the 2014 Olympics I was thrust into the limelight in a way I never had been before and…closeting myself and holding onto that lie began to become more and more painful. I got to a point where I no longer cared whether I lost sponsors because I felt I had proven myself enough, accomplished what I had originally set out to, and was ready to live my truth regardless of the consequences.

What could winter sports do to be more welcoming of the LGBTQ+ community?

Massive strides have been made to make skiing and snowboarding more inclusive. Gay ski weeks [are] certainly helpful…however, it’s o en simple things that are the most impactful in terms of making people feel seen and respected. Having

employees preferred pronouns printed on their name tags is something that…would immediately make LGBTQ folks feel welcomed.

What’s next for you, career-wise? I’m not entirely sure what’s next, but I’ve got my hands in a few di erent baskets with the hopes that something takes off for me. I’m currently taking acting classes and auditioning here and there and also spending a lot of time writing with the intention of publishing a book, a collection of essays about my life, entirely written by me. I’ll de nitely attend some gay ski week events with friends. Otherwise, my plan is to ski with my family over Christmas and, ultimately, take a big step away from the sport.

Where is your favorite place to ski? Telluride, Colorado, is hands down my favorite place to ski. It’s my home resort, so it holds a special place in my heart but a er skiing all over the place I can honestly say the terrain is some of the best in the world. The scenery is unmatched and the base of the resort goes right down into town, which makes for great accessibility and aprés ski options. Also, because Telluride is so far from any other resorts or big cities it’s never particularly crowded. The busiest day of the season is less busy than a weekday at rival resorts.

NAVIGATION If You Pass It They Will Come

How Spain uses legislation to appeal to a wide range of LGBTQ+ travelers.

By Paul J. Heney

Spain is one of the countries that’s seen a huge resurgence in travel since restrictions have been li ed. With the 2026 Gay Games in Valencia (and a rumored bid for an upcoming WorldPride by another Spanish city), queer travelers will be paying more and more attention to this vibrant, dynamic country in the coming years.

Miguel Sanz Castedo, the general director of Turespaña (the o cial tourism board of Spain), says promoting the country as LGBTQ-traveler-friendly isn’t his primary goal. Instead, he says, if Spain improves its standing for its own queer citizens, LGBTQ+ tourists will naturally follow.

“It’s about being an LGBTQ-accepting society,” Castedo said when we spoke at this year’s IGLTA. “We take pride that our biggest campaign is our laws and constitution — we have some of the most progressive legislation in the world for LGBTQ rights. As we speak, we are debating in Parliament about a trans rights law that is going to be one of the most open and diverse and advanced trans rights laws in the world — with self-determination of gender, by whomever wants to do it with no medical certi cation or a

judge or a court saying that you can change your name or your gender identity. It’s not enough to market yourself as a safe LGBTQ destination.[W]e’re an LGBTQ-accepting destination. Whoever lives in Spain or comes to visit Spain has the right to be whoever they want to be.”

Castedo noted that Spain attracts many di erent segments of travelers — women, business travelers, people who travel because of gastronomy, families, and the LGBTQ+ community. And he thinks that over the last 10 years, things have changed. A decade ago, a lot of the queer travelers were gay cisgender men and some women, but that’s beginning to change.

“I think that now we have all understood that the LGBTQ+ community is comprised of a lot of people with di erent needs, with di erent backgrounds. When you would see the brochures for the LGBT community before — and it was gay men having a party somewhere or holding hands on a beach. Now you can see more diverse people, gender uid, or trans people. And it’s not simply about going out at night and partying,” he said.

A lot of what Spain has to o er has good crossover appeal to queer travelers, according to Castedo. For example, destinations and attractions are creating products and experiences speci cally addressed to the LGBTQ+ community. The Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum in Madrid has a thematic guide focused on LGBTQ+ art and history, so visitors can view the permanent collection with a queer lens. In addition, there are lm festivals, cultural events, music festivals, and hotels speci cally for the LGBTQ+ community.

Spain is also focused on di erent types of LGBTQ travelers, from families to elderly community members.

“I think that this is a challenge for the hospitality industry across the world, but in Spain we take pride in being one of the favorite LGBTQ destinations in the world. It is a challenge that I think we are ful lling,” he said.

For Castedo, the annual highlights are always the various Pride celebrations, especially in 2023 with travel restrictions lifted.

“Our celebrations are a time to celebrate with friends and to say that you are happy, but they are also a demonstration. There are still rights to be conquered. And there is still a ght to be fought, not just in our own communities but internationally. I

think that that is the best excuse to travel somewhere — to show your support for the local communities while having fun,” he said.

Castedo also sees an interesting blurring between LGBTQ+ events and nonqueer events. He feels that any music festival in Spain is a bit queer, and mentions friends of his who attended a Bilbao festival for the Virgin Mary — and raved that it was the queerest party they’d been to.

“So, I wouldn’t look speci cally for queer events. I would look for big events and you will nd a queer corner of it,” he explained.

Castedo recommended a few itineraries that give a traveler a true taste of the country.

First start in the Andalusia region in the south of Spain, where Tarifa is home to flamenco and the area has great beaches, villages, and food. There’s Cádiz, the town of castles, which they call Little Havana because that was where the ships le from Spain to the Americas. Then head up to Seville, which is a gem and a beautiful modern city — but also very traditional. A er that, explore Granada and Córdoba and end in two lesser-known destinations in Spain: Úbida and Baeza — two Renaissance cities surrounded by more than 10 million olive trees.

In addition, he recommends a tour of northern Spain: “It’s green, it’s rocky, it’s cooler. The gastronomy is just fantastic.” And a trip through the middle of Spain, beginning in Madrid, which is located on a plateau 600 meters above sea level — it is the highest capital in Europe. It’s warm in the summer but gets cold winters.

“What you nd is a territory that is at. You can drive for hours — and what you see is castle a er castle and big cathedral a er big cathedral — surrounded by vineyards and wheat elds. I think that is a real step back in time, and for many of my American friends who have come to Spain, it is the most amazing trip because they almost feel like they are with Don Quixote, riding a horse. It’s de nitely o the beaten track.”

What I learned at IGLTA 2022

By Paul J. Heney

OCTOBER’S INTERNATIONAL LGBTQ+ travel association convention took place in Milan, Italy. The event was the largest ever held outside of the U.S. and included queer representatives from 39 countries. Here were four of the most interesting takeaways:

BE AUTHENTIC. Amy Martin-Ziegenfuss, SVP, Global Enterprise & Brand Marketing, Hilton, stressed the importance of speaking in an authentic and appropriate manner when talking to diverse groups, especially minorities and LGBTQ+ communities. “That means we are not driving the conversation, we are supporting the conversation. That’s one of the things that we’ve learned — it’s not just about targeting those travelers, our community, it’s also about actually supporting the businesses within that community. My team and I challenged ourselves to spend more money on that.”

BE INSPIRATIONAL. Danny Guerrero, founder of The Culturist Group, noted some destinations leading the way in LGBTQ+ marketing: “Fort Lauderdale — I think about what they’re doing in the face of what’s happening in Florida. I think about Puerto Rico and what they’re standing up for in the midst of the Caribbean. I think about that wonderful campaign Las Vegas did with Dominique Jackson, where a trans Black woman talks about her experiences and tries to relate to how Vegas makes her feel. The brands that can go out and con dently stand for something — or express themselves in the face of so much adversity.”

BE COURAGEOUS. Aisha Shaibu-Lenoir, founder of Moonlight Experiences, spoke on intersectionality within queer travel, and invited everyone to boldly learn about other communities — and actively engage with them.

“There’s so much that you can do, such as volunteer. If you want to know more about the trans community, volunteer your time; if you want to know about the Black community, volunteer your time and your services, whether you’re a photographer…or website designer.” ShaibuLenoir adds that allyship involves educating oneself. “Start understanding what has happened over time and acknowledge your privilege. Speak up for injustice — when you hear something that’s not OK, say [so]. Find di erent ways to be an activist or to create change.”

BE STRATEGIC. Dr. Elijah Nicholas (pictured on right), spoke on a panel on creating welcoming spaces for transgender and nonbinary employees and travelers. “If I go to your (web)page, do I see myself re ected — and in many ways — as a Black man, as a trans person, a trans man, even as a veteran? I’m coming to you from so many different intersections. Do you have pronouns somewhere on your website? Do I see not only a Pride ag, but for me, do I see a trans ag or a nonbinary flag? If not, I’m going on to the next place, because we have options — that’s the reality.”

PRIDE); MARK MORIN(IGLTA TRANS SPEAKERS)

By Paul J. Heney

I’ve been to Milwaukee on numerous business trips and always enjoyed my brief visits to this picturesque city on the shores of Lake Michigan. But beyond its much-touted German heritage, I never truly saw it as a particularly diverse place. Then a deeper dive changed my mind and I’ve fallen headover-heels for the Brew City.

The LGBTQ+ community here has some truly interesting history. While the Stonewall Riots remain the most referenced fuel for the queer rights movement, sparks were already lighting across the country. In Milwaukee things were kicked o at “The Black Nite Brawl.”

The Black Nite was a local gay bar that opened in 1958 (under the name Old Mill Inn for its rst year). On August 5, 1961, a group of straight men attacked the bar, and the queer patrons fought back.

Josie Carter, a self-described “Black queen,” and her partner, the bar’s bouncer, were heavily involved and Carter recounted the stories to many locals over the succeeding years. Today, the spot where The Black Nite once stood is an empty lot next to the freeway that cut through downtown — cleaving both LGBTQ+ history and minority neighborhoods. Now the site is being

designated as an official Milwaukee County landmark.

The city’s queer history is also being rediscovered thanks to the efforts of Dr. Brice D. Smith, project director of a forward-thinking new app, LGBT MilWALKee. Smith, a Colorado native who grew up in New Mexico, moved to Milwaukee for college and has never le The city, the trans man says, has always been a “big tent kind of place.”

LGBT MilWALKee’s very cool app debuted on June 1, 2022, just in time for the city’s Pride celebrations. The free app currently contains three guided walking tours: Birth of the Movement, Gayborhoods That Are Gone, and Walker’s Point Then. The LGBT MilWALKee group is currently developing additional tours and hopes to have them uploaded in time for this year’s Pride.

You can also use the app to explore on your own: the history and significance of two dozen landmarks are described in two- to three-minute professionally developed videos (using local paid talent from the Milwaukee LGBTQ+ community). I found the app an addictive way to learn about the city’s queer history.

I also visited the city’s (and state’s!) oldest gay bar, This Is It! , which is referred to locally as “TITS.” The club is

an old-fashioned dive bar on one half, with a nice stage area and a second bar on the other half, which features the glittering scepter that Trixie Mattel won on RuPaul’s Drag Race All-Stars in 2018. Mattel, who hails from Milwaukee, is now a co-owner.

Beyond the dynamic and accepting queer scene here, Milwaukee has a lot more to focus on. Here are six ways to connect and mix with di erent cultures in this lovely Midwestern gem:

Visit the Wisconsin State Fair

Although Milwaukee is an urban center, the impressive State Fair is held every year in the city of West Allis — a suburb that’s a quick 15-minute drive from downtown. Held each August, the fair is one of the 10 largest in the United States, attracting just over a million visitors annually. And don’t miss the cream pu s — about 400,000 of them are devoured over 11 days every year!

Tour America’s Black Holocaust Museum

This thoughtful, introspective, and profoundly moving museum was founded in 1988 by Dr. James Cameron and inspired by a trip to Israel. Similarities in the historical atrocities perpetuated against the two peoples spurred Cameron

This dynamic Great Lakes city has a more colorful past than you might imagine.

to open a museum dedicated to the Black struggle in America. Cameron also has an incredible personal story, having survived a lynching as a 16-year-old boy in North Carolina when he was hanged with two other boys. Only he lived. A er being closed for a decade, the museum reopened in 2022 in Milwaukee’s historically Black neighborhood of Bronzeville.

Support the region’s Native peoples Near downtown Milwaukee, the Potawatomi Hotel & Casino rises 19 stories, providing gorgeous views of the city and lake. The facility includes a 500-seat theater and a range of dining options including RuYi, a very memorable pan-Asian restaurant. The casino and hotel help support the Forest County Potawatomi Community (whose name means “People of the place of the fire”), but also contribute to the greater Milwaukee community.

Learn some Jewish history

The Jewish Museum Milwaukee offers thoughtful exhibits on Jewish beliefs and community, the history of intolerance, the Holocaust, and speci c connections between the local community and Isreal. I was surprised to learn that Golda Meir, its rst female prime minister, spent part of her childhood in Milwaukee. A particularly moving exhibit, “Stitching History from the Holocaust,” displays dresses designed by Hedwig “Hedy” Strnad who was murdered in the Holocaust. Her sketched designs have been tailor made; allowing Hedy’s talent to live on — and serving as a devastating reminder of the human potential lost to hate.

Meet the Hmong community

At the Hmong American Friendship Association Museum visitors learn about this community that hails mostly from Laos, Thailand, and Vietnam. The center provides services for the local Hmong community (one of the largest in the U.S.) as well as sharing their culture with visitors.

Get into the arts with the Latinx community Latino Arts, Inc., engages with the local Latinx community and builds bridges through the arts — from music and performance to gallery displays from local artists. The organization has been around for more than three decades and their site includes a 3,000 square-foot modern art gallery and a 350-seat multipurpose auditorium.

JOE RAEDLE/GETTY IMAGES (CAMERON); COURTESY NCSML CURATOR STEFANIE COHN (DRESSES); COURTESY AUTHOR (LOT, C’EST LA VIE BAR)

The empty lot where The Black Nite once stood is being designated a county landmark

Brice D. Smith, project director of LGBT MilWALKee, discusses the history of the building that once housed C’est La Vie bar

Dr. James Cameron, founder of Milwaukee’s Black Holocaust Mueum, survived a teenage lynching

The Jewish Museum Milwaukee spent more than 3,000 hours and 10 months to create Hedwig Strnad’s dresses from her sketches

Ripped From the Headliners

By Ricky Cornish

VEGAS HAS ALWAYS BEEN A MAGNET for LGBTQ+ entertainers and two of the latest stars to take center stage recently gave Out Traveler insider tips for hitting The Strip. Plan to peel o your clothes!

Kameron Michaels graced the runway on the tenth season of RuPaul’s Drag Race and lip-synched all the way to the top three. Now, the talented queen has earned a spot as one of the main cast members on RuPaul’s Drag Race Live, performing nightly at Flamingo Las Vegas Hotel & Casino.

Brigitte Navarrete makes up half of the popular EDM duo, The Deux Twins, alongside her sister Jaimee. The twins earned one of the most coveted residencies in Las Vegas at Wynn Nightlife’s hottest venues: XS Nightclub and Encore Beach Club. Brigitte is also queer, making her one of the only female and LGBTQ+ mainstream DJs in the EDM genre. Here are their exclusive insights into Sin City:

What is your one must-see place in Vegas?

Navarrete: I’ve never felt out of place being queer at the Wynn. Once you’ve been, you can’t go anywhere else!

Michaels: The Strip by itself is super fun. Just walking in and out of the hotels is enough! I had never been to The Venetian and just walking around was incredible. Outside of the Strip, there’s a lot of great hiking. I have yet to go to AREA15 and I keep seeing all of these cool ads for that.

What are the essentials people need to pack for Sin City?

Navarrete: Bring multiple forms of ID. Keep one in the room in the safe! That’s just from personal experience. You know how it is. You’re out, then you have a ight to catch and you realize you lost your ID. There’s nothing worse!

Michaels: It gets super hot here, but I

love the heat! I would much rather sweat and take o clothes than be cold and put clothes on.

What are the top restaurants and bars?

Navarrete: There’s so much good food in Vegas. My personal favorite right now is Cipriani in the Wynn. I can’t go to Vegas and not get the Blue Cheese Gnocchi.

Michaels: Of course, we have Piranha and it’s probably my favorite gay bar in Las Vegas. Any random night of the week, there’s always something fun going on. They always have beautiful go-go boys, so who doesn’t like that?

When it comes to top entertainment options in Las Vegas, both queer artists had no shame in promoting their own shows: see Michaels in RuPaul’s Drag Race Live through caesars.com; see Brigitte as part of The Deux Twins, via wynnnightlife.com

WESLEY TINGEY/UNSPLASH (FLAMINGO); RICK KERN/GETTY IMAGES (MICHAELS); COURTESY WYNN LAS VEGAS (ENCORE BEACH CLUB); COURTESY WYNN NIGHTLIFE (NAVARRETE)

Exclusive tips for visiting Las Vegas from queer stars Kameron Michaels and Brigitte Navarrete.

FROM TOP LEFT Flamingo Las Vegas Hotel & Casino; Drag Race’s Kameron Michaels with backup dancers; Encore Beach Club; Brigitte Navarrete of The Deux Twins

By Jacob Anderson-Minshall

It’s cold outside, but that won’t stop intrepid travelers. Whether you’re hitting the slopes or the red carpet we’ve got the coat for you, from high fashion of Prada’s feathery fabulousness and sexy trench to Moncler’s trendy Grenoble ski wear and Patagonia’s down pullover created from

Milan

Majestic Milan

This Italian city beguiles from its towering gothic cathedral to its Leonardo da Vinci masterpieces, the queer district, and delicious food.

By Paul J. Heney

Some places in the world are special. Destinations that have a kind of magical vibration — a change in the air that greets you when you arrive. A feeling that

you’ll leave somehow changed by the experience. Milan, Italy is one of those dynamic cities, with a tantalizing mix of architecture, fashion, food, and queer friendliness that should catapult it to the top of your list of European destinations.

Duomo di Milano Milan, Italy

Where to stay

Tops for high-end accommodations is the gorgeous Park Hyatt Milan, which recently underwent a complete refurbishment. The property, reopened in February 2022, boasts 106 rooms, including 25 suites, and sits in the city’s center, adjacent to the famed Duomo (cathedral) and the breathtaking Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II shopping arcade.

Sitting astride the city’s gay district, Porta Venezia, the Starhotels Ritz location is a four-star property within easy walking distance of the Metro and many gay clubs, as well as shopping and restaurants. The rooms are modern and comfortable, and breakfast is included in the daily rate. A few blocks away, the Ibis Milano Centro is an economical option, with a more extensive breakfast o ering, but slightly smaller and more basic rooms. We were fascinated to learn that the building was designed by famed architect Luigi Moretti, who also designed the Watergate complex in the U.S.

Where to party

LGBTQ+ visitors will want to explore the city’s queer hub, the Rainbow district of Porta Venezia. The nightlife really gets into high gear on Thursday evenings and extends through the weekend. (Want a shot but want to sound like a local? Just ask for a chupito in any of the nightclubs!)

Popular LGBTQ+ and queer-friendly bars here include Bar Lola, Memà, Lecco Milano, Pop Milano (a lesbian establishment), Step Bar Milano, Sui Generis, Pazzesk, Red Café, and Oro Street Bar. Crowds get so large on weekends that revelers spill out into the streets.

COURTESY (PARK HYATT MILANO); COURTESY (STARHOTELS RITZ)

Junior Suite bath Park Hyatt Milano

Milan Deluxe Starhotels Ritz

Where to visit

Milan’s Duomo cathedral is an imposing gothic structure towering nearly 150 feet over the heart of the city. Take the elevator to the top of the structure, where, incredibly, visitors are allowed to walk along the roo op. The views of the city are amazing. The seemingly endless spires — not to mention the 3,400 statues, 135 gargoyles, and 700 gures — adorning the cathedral make for mesmerizing photos at every turn. Inside, the cavernous, roughly 14-story-high structure is equally impressive, with light from the towering stained-glass windows casting colorful beams into every corner. The cathedral took over six hundred years to build, and with refurbishments ongoing, locals like to say that it will never be nished.

Milan’s Teatro ala Scala opera house dates back to 1778 but had to be restored a er World War II. In the early years, the action on stage was but a distraction from the real draw: seeing what the wealthy aristocrats were wearing and doing in their private booths. Now only the sound of applause is expected from the audience. Recent modernizations to the stage allow the facility to host 270 to 280 performances a year, more than double the previous number. Buy tickets for a Sunday a ernoon (it’s cheaper and the dress code is more relaxed than for the evening performances), and don’t worry about language barriers: the closed captioning system on the back

of every chair allows audience members to follow along with either Italian or English subtitles.

Seeing Leonardo da Vinci’s famous work The Last Supper is quite a contrast to viewing the Mona Lisa. While Mona Lisa surprises with its diminutive size, The Last Supper inspires awe. It is an enormous painting, (roughly 28 x 15 feet), stretched across what was the dining hall of the Dominican convent Santa Maria delle Grazie. Because of its popularity — and the painting’s delicate nature — only small groups are allowed to view the painting in 15-minute increments. Book tickets in advance at the o cial Cenacolo Vinciano Last

Museum

Where to eat

With pasta, pizza, and international restaurants (plus tantalizing gelato, and espresso cafes), there are endless options for delicious food in Milan. One truly memorable gourmet option is Boeucc Restaurant, located in the center of the city. This restaurant has been operating for an incredible 325 years, first opening its doors in 1696. The style here is decidedly old world and high class, with crystal glasses, linen tablecloths, silver cutlery, and impeccable service. Try their Milanese-style risotto, but make sure to save room for some fantastic tiramisu. You’ll be dreaming of the meal — and your whole Milan experience — for years to come.

(LAST SUPPER) PAUL J HENEY (RAINBOW DISTRICT, LA SCALA)

Cenacolo Vinciano

Last Supper Museum

Supper

Teatro ala Scala

Rainbow district

Return of Mallrats

By

IN THE 1980S OF MY GEN X TEEN YEARS, my favorite place on earth was the mall. Any mall. Living on the border in rural Idaho, we’d cruise the strip around our tiny eight-store mall in neighboring Southeast Oregon. (In teen parlance that “cruising” could also lead to sex, but mostly consisted of driving cars up and down the main road and stopping to irt and smoke). When I could drive to the big mall 30 miles away, it was an all day event — and when I visited my mom in California, I went to every single mall in the San Fernando Valley. Glendale Galleria was my shrine one summer, where I saw both a Rick Spring eld and a Ti any concert, and learned to talk like a Valley girl. In the decades since, most American malls have closed or faltered.

So I was thrilled to visit a mall outside Milan, where we were attending the 38th Annual International LGBTQ+ Travel Association Global Conference. Milan is an amazing fast-paced, fashionable, and fascinating city. But 50 miles away, in the Piedmontese countryside were two places I enjoyed even more. (Yes, I know, I’m relinquishing my sophistication card right now.)

The Gavi region is wine country (the delightful white Gavi wine can only

be made here), and the area offers up numerous wineries, country homes turned B&Bs, biking and hiking paths, and eateries where you can smell the sea air and see the Italian Alps as you dine alfresco.

At Villa Sparina, a working winery turned resort, you can (in season) help harvest grapes, dig for tru es (if you nd a white one, keep it to sell, locals say), and learn to cook like an Italian chef (one hour of training and I now make the best gnocchi my family has ever had — they swear). The ancient cellars and intimate spaces make this one romantic destination!

But the next spot aroused my senses even more. Just down the road from Villa Sparina is Europe’s largest outlet mall, McArthurGlen Seravalle Designer Outlet. This is not the kind of outlet mall where you nd defective cardigans and slightly o -color runs of designer bags. This is an outdoor pavilion around which 300 luxury brands have year-round stores that sell the prior season’s fashions and accessories.

Gucci, Prada, Versace, Guess, Valentino, Coach, Fendi, Ermenegildo Zegna, Karl Lagerfeld, O -White, Saint Laurent, Balmain, and Balenciaga, all have stores here. With this level of luxury, even at up-to-70-percent o , I still found plenty of $2,500 items I could only

ogle. Some stores feature doormen and velvet-roped waiting lines to keep out the ri -ra . Too impatient to stand in line while dozens of other stores welcomed swi entry, I hopscotched past most of those and came out with half a dozen couture items for around $200.

There are no taxes for non-EU residents and Serravalle has an (invitation-only) airport-quality guest lounge where you can relax with complimentary wine, coffee, and snacks until you get your second wind. You can also have each store hold your purchases and then deliver them to you at the VIP lounge. It’s truly a femme dream come true.

The mall has its own shuttle service from Milan and back (through Zani Viaggi at Milan Central Station daily). It’s about a 45-minute ride from the Genoa airport, 1 hour from Milan, and 90 minutes from Turin. There’s also train service, and many tourists y in, rent a car, and drive out just to visit the Serravalle Designer Outlet (mcarthurglen.it/serravalle). I know I would!

But the region begs to be visited for longer stretches so you can truly appreciate the rolling hills and the Gavi wine, take longer treks to the mall – and learn to cook like an Italian grandmother.

Tourists head to Italy for the art, food, and fashion. But this unassuming mall in the Gavi region made my day.

Diane Anderson-Minshall

McArthurGlen Seravalle Designer Outlet

The Floating City

Hope and LGBTQ+ history in Venice, the City of Canals.

By Jacob Anderson-Minshall

Venice

IS

The

palace and the attached St Mark’s

1063) now oods several times a year, despite the city’s investment of $6 billion into a ood barrier system that took 20 years to build. The problems started back in the 1950s when companies were allowed to pump water out of underground aquifers for industrial purposes — causing the city to drop roughly 5 inches. Now it’s facing rising seas (the water in the lagoon is already 12.6 inches higher compared with 150 years ago) due to the ongoing climate catastrophe.

And yet, visiting Venice can be surprisingly hopeful. People have been living here for more than a millennium and the houses and shops that crowd the city’s canals and narrow cobblestone streets are tangible evidence of humanity’s resilience. You can see the layers of di erent kinds of bricks and changing construction styles, obvious signs of building on top of an older structure. The city has been rising for centuries, ever since the rst settlers constructed buildings on foundations of wood posts sunk into mud ats in the 5th century.

Queers have probably been here that long too, especially given what we know about sexual relations in single-sex populations, and knowing that Venice’s merchant mariners were away from their wives for months and years at a time. But evidence of LGBTQ+ existence isn’t well documented until gay sex became a crime. Then arrest and trial documents show the punishment of those convicted: in the 15th century, they were burned to death. Those guilty of sodomy were imprisoned into the 17th.

But according to Manuel Meneghel, a gay architect and history bu who leads LGBTQ+ tours of Venice (venezialibertina.com), one can also nd traces of queer history in ancient saunas and in the redlight districts, where some courtesans were lesbians. The world’s oldest profession a orded certain rights and privileges not granted other Venetian women. (Courtesans were still subject to criminalization and being accused of performing witchcra .)

In Rialto, the economic heart of Venice, Meneghel tells the story of one courtesan, Rolandina, who, in the 1300s, was discovered to have been assigned male at birth, making her, Meneghel argues, the rst known trans person in modern history.

JACOB ANDERSON-MINSHALL (VENICE BRIDGE); PBNJ PRODUCTIONS GETTYIMAGES (VENICE LESBIAN COUPLE GONDOLA)

VENICE

SINKING.

iconic Piazza San Marco, home to a

Basilica (built in

Nothing is more romantic than Venice by water taxi or gondola

Of course, LGBTQ+ people aren’t con ned to the ranks of sex workers, and in later centuries, the in uence of (especially) gay men began to leave an imprint upon the Venetian culture through literature and artistic pursuits.

During the Renaissance, there was a rediscovery and embrace of the classical era, particularly a Greek revival. That included queer, Greek-style homosexual love. Some of Venice’s most important citizens played a role in sharing those ideas, sometimes in subtle ways.

Visit the palace of Doge Antonio Grimani, the Palazzo Grimani of Santa Maria Formosa, now a museum. His grandson, Giovanni Grimani, Patriarch of Aquileia, renovated the medieval building with Greek-style frescos and statuary and other artifacts uncovered from the ancient Greek and Roman empires. The art Grimani chose included numerous images of the god Zeus with his “cup-bearer” and rumored lover Ganymede. Homer called the teen the most beautiful of all mortals; he was taken by Zeus to Mount Olympus and granted immortality. Ganymede became a common symbol of same-sex love in both the visual and literary arts. Another same-sex couple represented in Grimani’s collection is a Roman statue of the god Dionysus and a satyr companion (a male nature spirit o en portrayed as having a permanent, exaggerated erection).

As the LGBTQ+ tour leaves Palazzo Grimani, Meneghel shares descriptions of homosexual love in Venice from books penned more than four centuries ago. O en shared secretly, these works rejected the morality and rationality of the time and espoused a libertine eroticism that insisted physical pleasure (including sex between men) was worthy of embrace for its own end.

A er the vigorous walking tour, take a water taxi from Piazza San Marco, but don’t go straight to your hotel. It’s worth paying extra to tour the city by boat, especially as the sun sets.

Stay at the Santa Croce Boutique Hotel in the heart of the city. If you arrive by train, de nitely pay the 20 Euros for a porter to transport your luggage over the rough cobblestones and mountainous bridges. Santa Croce features its own romantic garden and rooms that draw inspiration from four themes re ecting unique aspects of Venetian history and culture. The Caravels (referencing the city’s nautical and sailing traditions), The Orient (the in uence of merchant trade with India, Persia, and the Far East), The Secret Gardens (hidden gardens found sheltered inside private palazzos), and The Stones of Venice (recalling the strati cation of stones and brick placed layer upon layer over the centuries).

Although Meneghel reports that the last gay bar in the old city closed some time ago, LGBTQ-owned shops and cafés remain. Queer locals and visitors continue to in uence the culture in the city. And Venice continues to rise.

Love Italian Style

These tours take travelers to settings from

QUIIKY TRAVEL CREATES TOURS FOR LGBTQ+ travelers in Italy, providing local guides to tell the region’s queer history and cultural touchpoints. Founded by a gay couple Alessio Virgili and Andrea Cosimi in 2007, Quiiky was the first LGBTQ+ Italian Tour company. It’s gained praise for its Untold History tours, which share Italy’s queer historical and cultural roots. Take its exploration of Milan and see the works of the city’s favorite (queer) son Leonardo da Vinci. Two of Quiiky Travel’s other popular tours take visitors to the locations of recent LGBTQ+ films.

Call Me By Your Name

With this summer tour, travelers recreate scenes from the 2017 coming-of-age gay love story based on the novel by André Aciman. Director Luca Guadagnino moved the setting from Portofino to his hometown of Crema in the Lombardy region.

Walk through Crema’s high-walled streets and sit by the 14thcentury cathedral where Elio and Oliver kiss. Move on to the small town Pandino, site of the striking war memorial in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, where Elio first declares his feelings to Oliver. Other stops include the Laghetto dei Riflessi (where Elio takes his friend Marzia a er dancing), and the park Fontanile Quarantina (where Elio and Oliver swim a er a long ride).

The tour is a romantic queer pilgrimage to the Italian countryside, following in the footsteps of Elio and Oliver, letting you recreate those moments with your own love. Peach not included.

The House of Gucci

The 2021 Ridley Scott movie was filmed in part in Milan, Italy, and that’s where the Quiiky tour starts. In the fim, Villa Necchi Campiglio, a home built in the 1930s by architect Piero Portaluppi, served as Rodolfo Gucci’s (Jeremy Irons) studio. Now a museum, the villa was designed for a wealthy sewingmachine magnate, Angelo Campiglio, his wife, Gigina, and her (unmarried) sister Nedda Necchi.

Much of the villa’s décor, art collection, gardens, and private swimming pool made appearances in House of Gucci. Other scenes were shot close by at Palazzo Bagatti Valsecchi and the restaurant Il Salumaio. The tour visits the Church of Saint Sepulcher, where Maurizio Gucci and Patrizia Reggiani were married, and Via Palestro, the location where the real Maurizio Gucci was killed.

The tour leaves Milan for Como Lake, where the interior of Villa Balbiano was the setting of Maurizio’s birthday celebration. Built by architect Jacques Garcia for Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio in the 16th century, the villa is now a private residence with six luxurious suites, a swimming pool, and private dock —JAM

Zeus and his young lover Ganymede depicted at Palazzo Grimani

Follow in Elio and Oliver’s footsteps

DESTINATIONS Alberta

Alberta, Canada

North is the new West.

By Jacob Anderson-Minshall

WITH ITS MAGNIFICENT, glacier-carved landscapes and love for cold-weather sports, the western Canadian province of Alberta, is a perfect destination this time of year. But it’s also great for summer adventures as well.

Indeed, the region has all of the best of the American West, including awe-inspiring national parks, vibrant Indigenous communities, world-class rodeos, cra beer, bison and elk, wide prairies, and even its own Rocky Mountains. Yet the area can also seem light-years ahead of much of the American Inter-Mountain West in its embrace of diversity, wellness, and sustainability

Start your tour of Alberta in Edmonton, which lies along the North Saskatchewan River near the center of the province. In the province’s capital, every neighborhood has its own ice skating and hockey rink and community center (there are also four ski hills in this metropolis). Here you can catch the northern lights from dark sky preserves or take a riverboat cruise through North America’s largest stretch of urban parkland. A city that loves festivals, Edmonton throws one a week, from the world’s biggest Fringe Theatre Festival to an international Indigenous lm fest, and SkirtsA re, a womencentric arts festival.

A great way to explore the city is by bike or e-scooter. Take the YEG Scoot Mural Tour to enjoy both the region’s vibrant public art and a taste of the 100 miles of multi-use trails in the Edmonton River Valley.

Stay at JW Marriott Edmonton ICE District for the gym alone. Archetype, the breathtaking 13,000-square-foot health

club was home to the Edmonton Oilers hockey team during the lockdown. The hotel is also perfectly located in Canada’s largest mixed-use entertainment district, and is connected via an indoor walkway to Roger’s Place (arena and event space) and easy walking distance to Edmonton’s Arts District.

Eat at the brewery Biera. The meats are hand-carved and breads baked, just steps away at Acme Meat Market and Little Duchess Bake Shop. Check out Canada’s rst Neon Sign Museum, an outdoor monument to those who once had their names in lights. Then pop over to nearby gay bar, Evolution Wonderlounge. EVO has a dance floor and pool table, but the real draw are the costume parties, onesie nights, and Edmonton’s drag scene, where RuPaul’s Drag Race stars make regular appearances.

From Edmonton, head farther into the mountains, along one of the most beautiful roads in the world, leading to the twin jewels of the Canadian National Park system: Jasper and Ban . Deep in the Canadian Rockies, the Jasper Park Lodge was built in 1915. Its log cabins have hosted royalty (both Queen Elizabeth and her father King George VI), celebrities, and in uencers — and once famously tossed out Marylyn Monroe.

A luxury destination since 1922, the 700-acre in-holding o ers truly unrivaled access to the UNESCO World Heritage Site that is the Jasper National Park. If given the opportunity, enjoy a reside talk by Indigenous knowledge keeper Theresa Westhaver to learn more about the tribes that frequented the region. A erward take a stroll along the lake and you may hear haunting elk bugles and loon songs. During the summer there’s

Ice Skating Lake Minnewanka

hiking and watersports on Lac Beauvert, in the winter world-class skiing and other winter sports. The little town of Jasper is very queer-inclusive. Come for the LGBTQ+ ski week and stop at the local “unabashedly eclectic and queer” co ee shop, Coco’s Café

The next stage of this stunning drive will take you past towering mountains as iconic as Yosemite’s Half Dome, more glaciers than in Glacier National Park, powerful waterfalls, and have-to-see-itto-believe-it turquoise lakes as you leave Jasper for Ban National Park.

If you have the opportunity, stay at the world-famous Ban Springs Hotel. Known as the “Castle in the Rockies,” it’s been providing legendary hospitality for more than 130 years. In the early days, it catered to the world’s wealthiest travelers, serving as just one stop on a 4-year tour of the world.

Take the Banff historical tour and learn how the grand hotel’s founding is literally the history of Canada, a country united by a trans-continental railroad, that ran through this amazing wilderness. The scenery (and nearby mineral baths) so impressed railroad baron Cornelius Van Horn that he not only built an iconic Scottish castle hotel here but also successfully lobbied for it to become the country’s first national park. (All the capitalist’s e orts — even on behalf of Canada — further enriched him personally.)

The Banff castle and Jasper lodge are both Fairmont properties, (part of LGBTQ-embracing Accor Group), offering high-end luxury accommodations. The real pampering begins at Willow Stream Spa Experience. The hotel’s 40,000-squarefoot, award-winning day spa features 27 private treatment rooms and provides access to an exclusive pool, outdoor hot pools (with their own waterfalls), steam rooms, and eucalyptus-scented saunas.

Save the regenerative spa treatment until a er exploring the region’s natural beauty. In warmer weather take the White Mountain Adventures ’ fourhour e-bike tour that throws in a hike up Johnston Canyon to the spectacular waterfalls. In the winter take the Johnston Canyon Icewalk or actually climb the frozen waterfalls! Either way, look for the Cathedral of Ice at the upper falls, a 100+-foot semicircle with walls of vertical ice columns. A erwards stop at Three Bear Brewery for small batch brews made with glacier water.

It’s hard to leave behind the tranquil beauty of the Canadian Rockies, but the wide-open prairies of Alberta beckon.

Lesbian crooners, Tegan and Sara are from our final destination — Calgary.

Learn more about another Alberta lesbian, Edmonton’s k.d. lang, at Calgary’s National Music Centre in Studio Bell, a multi-purpose performance hall, recording facility, broadcast studio, live music venue, and museum.

Stay at The Dorian, one of Calgary’s newest hotels. Almost inherently queer, it references Oscar Wilde’s gothic masterpiece, The Picture of Dorian Gray, and many rooms feature portraits of Wilde or copies of the book. Maybe avoid the moral of the story until a er exploring the hedonistic debauchery of Calgary’s bathhouses, bars, and party boys. Fittingly, the Dorian is actually two hotels in one. The upper levels o er modern luxury with British whimsy as part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection; the lower levels are Courtyard by Marriott, catering to less-monied urban adventurers and business professionals.

A unique way to see the Calgary is with Rocky Mountain Sidecar Adventures in a vintage-style sidecar motorcycle. You’ll learn about the Stampede, explore neighborhoods, see public art, and cross the Bow and Elbow Rivers.

Eat at Mash, the pizza joint from owners of a brewery who, after partnering with local farmers to feed bison, cattle, and chicken, still had le over grain they upcycle into avorful pizza dough. The Dill Pickle & Bacon pizza is sweeter than you’d imagine.

The Alberta Gay and Lesbian Film Festival is held in Calgary every summer, and the queer cowboys at the Alberta Rockies Gay Rodeo Association sponsor annual dances. Other nights go to the Calgary gay bars Texas Lounge, Twisted Element Nightclub & Queer Hall, Goliath’s Bathhouse; or the pop-up Hot Mess parties.

Ice climbing Johnston Canyon falls

Out for Adventure

BY RICKY CORNISH PHOTOGRAPHY BY WES AND ALEX

photography WES AND ALEX @wesandalex subjects JONATHAN BENNETT and JAYMES VAUGHAN @jonathandbennett @ jaymesv @outbound_travel photographer’s assistant CHRIS COLLINS @c2camera stylist AISHA RAE @aisharaestyle stylist’s assistant NATHAN RODRIGUEZ-FIGUEROA @iamnathanfigueroa groomer JOHNNY HERNANDEZ @ johnny.hernandez.hair writer RICKY CORNISH @rickycornish

Actor Jonathan Bennett and husband Jaymes Vaughan invited strangers to join them so they never have to travel alone.

Jaymes (left) and Jonathan both in VERSACE robes and their own swim trunks

onathan Bennett and Jaymes Vaughan chafed at the confinement of lockdown. Like many of us who love to travel, the couple dreamt of places they wanted to visit. They also decided that the next time they traveled they didn’t want to go alone.

Bennett is forever remembered for his performance as Aaron Samuels in Tina Fey’s 2004 cult classic, Mean Girls. But he’s also hosted Cake Wars and Cupcake Wars on Food Network, broke boundaries as the first gay lead in a Hallmark Channel holiday movie (2020’s The Christmas House), and was named to Out magazine’s Out100 list the same year. He has since starred in other Hallmark films and the comedic film Potato Dreams of America.

Vaughan is a television host who competed on The Amazing Race 21 with fellow Chippendale, James Davis. The duo came in second to The Fabulous Beekman Boys stars and partners Josh Kilmer-Purcell and Brent Ridge (the last gay couple to win until 2020’s Will Jardell and James Wallington). Vaughan also hosted Celebrity Page and American Music Awards’ Red Carpet Live, and recently lmed a reality show with other LGBTQ+ stars.

Jaymes (left) TED BAKER henley; DAVID YURMAN bracelet; VINCE pants; COMMON PROJECTS shoes

Jonathan (right) ALL SAINTS button down shirt; H&M COLLECTION pants; KLEIN EPSTEIN PARKER shoes

Jonathan and Jaymes both wearing VERSACE robes and their own swim trunks

The gay couple admitted they felt a little claustrophobic and alone during the pandemic. Travel beckoned, but so did the need for community.

“We were sitting around the house and itching to go somewhere,” Bennett recalls. “We really wanted to see the world, but we wanted to do it with people that are part of the LGBTQ+ community. We went down this road and OUTbound was born.”

They launched their travel company before most countries reopened to visitors but found doing so wasn’t a barrier to generating bookings, particularly among LGBTQ+ people looking for safe travel options.

“That’s why we created OUTbound… to create a queer safe space for people to travel and see the world, and do these amazing international things.”

OUTbound (iamoutbound.com) creates custom-designed adventures for LGBTQ+ travelers. It takes over entire ships and resorts to create a sense of community, and partners with local (o en LGBTQ+) tour operators to explore a destination’s queer culture, history, and hot spots.

Vaughan describes OUTbound as “community.” He adds, “We are fun. We are a safe space. We are these dream destinations that you want to go to. We do it all together as a family. Queer safe spaces are very important to us.

Vaughan explains. “It feels like our chosen family is doing this stu with us, which is one of the most special things about being a queer person. People show up exactly for who they are. I can’t think of anything more special than that.”

They own the company, but it’s more than a business for these two. When you embark on an OUTbound cruise, you are booking time with Bennett and Vaughan themselves.

“Of course we’re going on the trips!” Bennett assures. “OUTbound isn’t just about the trips, it’s about the family onboard. It’s a safe floating Pride party that travels around the world, celebrating all the di erent colors of the LGBTQ+ rainbow.”

While the travel business is a new venture for the couple, Vaughan, in particular, had quite a bit of experience traveling a er his time on The Amazing Race and as a co-host for Celebrity Page.

“I’ve traveled a ton with all of the shows that I’ve done,” Vaughan explains. “All of us together had this time and we were fortunate enough to create something that we were very passionate about. Now, we’re shooting the cover of Out Traveler and it’s mindblowing. This was our little baby and now she’s taken LGBTQ+ people all over the world.”

Celebrity Page remains more than another job for Vaughan. After all, it’s where he met Bennett during an oncamera interview. And from the very beginning, travel has been an inspirational relationship goal for the couple.

OUTbound isn’t just about the trips, it’s about the family onboard. It’s a safe floating Pride party that travels around the world, celebrating all the different colors of the LGBTQ+ rainbow.

It feels like our chosen family is doing this stuff with us, which is one of the most special things.

Jonathan and Jaymes both wearing COS loungewear

Jonathan and Jaymes both wearing VERSACE robes and their own swim trunks

“I haven’t traveled as much as Jaymes has,” Bennett acknowledges. “I really want to travel the world, but I want to do it with my husband… and that’s how OUTbound was born.”

The couple included travel in their wedding plans, choosing an intimate ceremony at the beachside Unico Riviera Maya Hotel in Mexico last March.

“It still feels unreal that we had that wedding,” Vaughan says. “We got to have all of our chosen family come to a place that was so special to us, where queer people are so welcomed. We felt so safe to express our love and bond permanently with the people that mean the most to us.”

Bennett muses, “To be a queer couple and get married publicly, we never felt uncomfortable once in the entire planning process or the wedding itself. It felt so awesome to be celebrated in such a safe space.”

As the hubbies approach their oneyear anniversary, they’re gearing up for a new season of exciting cruises and destinations. The lineup for 2023 includes a river cruise through the wine country of southern France, a Christmas markets cruise on the Rhine, Pride celebrations in Budapest and Amsterdam, and a blended cruise-andsafari adventure in Africa.

“These are once-in-a-lifetime experiences,” says Bennett. And the couple wants to share those experiences with other LGBTQ+ travelers. “We’re doing it as one big, super queer family.”

“Vienna is one of my [favorite] places in the entire world,” Vaughan adds. “For Budapest Pride, the ship actually stays there as your hotel and you get to go back and forth as you experience Pride and everything on board with us. The African cruise sold out right away. Selling something out is the most amazing feeling because it means our LGBTQ+ family sees us, supports us, and is onboard with us.”

JONATHAN

The couple emphasize that their itineraries build in safety and comfort.

“These destinations feel very highend,” Vaughan says. “We plan all the trips ahead of time and we cra what the experience is going to be to make it the perfect thing for our queer family that’s cruising with us.”

The couple says they are still overcome with emotion about how far they’ve come in their personal journeys as well.

“I remember standing at our wedding,” Vaughan recalls. “Little Jaymes had hoped that I would meet the love of my life and I would marry him in a forest. We got married in a jungle. I had the hope… but I didn’t think I would. It was really dark for me for a lot of my childhood.” His voice cracks with emotion. “I had given up and Jonathan showed up in my life and changed it for the better.”

“I never thought I’d actually publicly be out,” Bennett adds, “I never thought this was possible. It’s a long road to get here, but I’m so happy that I’m here. When you get to a point where you can just have the closet door thrown open, and just live your authentic self, that’s when you really shine.”

Jaymes (left) KLEIN EPSTEIN & PARKER blue three-piece suit and button down shirt; COMMON PROJECTS shoes Jonathan (right) KLEIN EPSTEIN & PARKER pink blazer, pants, and shoes; ALL SAINTS T-shirt

“When you get to a point where you can just have the closet door thrown open, and just live your authentic self, that’s when you really shine.”

THE BEST IN THE U.S.

These nine states and one territory are the hottest LGBTQ+ destinations in America.

CALIFORNIA

Wander among old growth trees in Redwood National and State Parks then take a canoe trip down the Klamath River in a hollowed-out Redwood canoe with a native Yurok guide. Enjoy the views of Emerald Bay at Lake Tahoe and help keep it blue. Climb El Capitan or simply be awe-struck by the towering granite walls of Yosemite National Park. Surf San Diego or Half Moon Bay, oat the Russian River in the LGBTQ+ resort town of Guerneville. Tour wine country or eat your way through the state’s culinary diversity. Surf in the morning and ski in the afternoon. The diversity of the state’s geography also gives it an edge over other states, but so does it’s leadership when it comes to protecting LGBTQ+ rights — and that impacts everything.

Of course, San Francisco, one of the world’s queerest cities, tops many LGBTQ+ travelers’ list of places to visit. There you can learn more about the queer-rights movement at the GLBT History Museum or on Cruisin’ the Castro Walking Tours. Attend one of the city’s queer festivals throughout the year: The Native American BAAITS Two-Spirit Powwow in February is the oldest and largest in the nation. Pride Month draws a million visitors every June who watch the parade and attend events like the Fresh Meat Festival of transgender and queer performance.

Leathermen ock to the Folsom Street Fair in September, Halloween is a blowout, and November offers the oldest trans lm festival in the world (SFTFF). But don’t neglect the rest of the San Francisco Bay Area, especially Oakland (our fave queer spots include Port Club, Que Rico Nightclub and Restaurant, The Queer Gym, and Chopped star Jen Biesty’s Shakewell). In the South Bay, San Jose has Splash Bar, Sara’s Southern Coffee Shop, and Queer Silicon Valley’s traveling history tour.

As the state’s largest city, it goes without saying that queer travelers to the sprawling metropolis of Los Angeles will nd plenty to occupy their time. While the heart of LGBTQ+ Los Angeles beats in West Hollywood, it pulses through the entire city, particularly in the neighborhoods of Silver Lake, and Downtown (DTLA). More than a third of the residents of West Hollywood (WeHo) are queer, and the city is home to essential events like LA Pride Festival and Parade, Outfest, and the Halloween Carnival. The Abbey draws queens, trans folks, and both queer men and women (especially to GirlBar).

Silver Lake has deep roots in queer history, home to a celebrated drag performer in the 1920s, the Mattachine Society in the ’50, The Black Cat raids and following protests in the ’60s, and leather bars in the ’80s. Learn more queer history at ONE National Gay & Lesbian Archives and The June L. Mazer Lesbian Archives. Silver Lake’s Casita Del Campo has been around for six decades and features a Cal-Tex menu (delicious margaritas) and cabaret theater. In DTLA, don’t miss The New Jalisco Bar, Queen Kong Friday nights at Precinct, and dancing at the Redline. Elsewhere in the city, you’ll nd Cuties, a coffee shop and community center (East Hollywood); and pop-up parties like the pansexual A Club Called Rhonda and the POC and transcentered Ostbanhof. At Will Rogers State Beach near Santa Monica is the “unof cial” gay beach, nicknamed “Ginger Rogers Beach.”

Of course, Southern California beaches are always a draw but two beachside communities are especially LGBTQ-embracing. Laguna Beach, a historic arts colony with a long-established queer community, is Orange County’s leading LGBTQ+ destination. Further south, San Diego is a vibrant city, where the LGBTQ+ hub is the neighborhood of Hillcrest. Eat at Gossip Grill, sip craft beers at the gay-owned Hillcrest Brewing Company, and then dance the night away at The Rail, San Diego’s oldest gay bar.

Pull yourself away from the coast long enough to explore the queer desert communities centered around Palm Springs. One of the world’s top LGBTQ+ destinations, it’s home to the world’s largest gathering of queer women (Club Skirt’s Dinah Shore Weekend) and hosts the gay circuit mainstay, the Palm Springs White Party. In the spring enjoy local hiking or visit for Cathedral City LGBTQ Days (March) to watch wildly decorated, four-post beds race through the desert city’s downtown. In October celebrate Palm Springs Leather Pride, and in November the broader community Pride events. Stay at one of the region’s gay clothing-optional motels or the pink paradise of Trixie Motel, visit the local LGBTQ+ center, sip java at Kof , enjoy drag brunch at Oscar’s Downtown Palm Springs, and party at Chill Bar or Hunters Palm Springs. —JACOB ANDERSON-MINSHALL

Palm trees in a Los Angeles neighborhood

HAWAII

Beckoning with beautiful beaches and rainforests, and brimming with Indigenous history and culture, Hawaii tops many travelers’ bucket lists. Now, with two volcanoes erupting simultaneously, Hawaii is also a huge draw for those who want to witness the Earth at its most dynamic. The state is also one of the most LGBTQ-inclusive in the U.S. and has a long Indigenous history of embracing gender and sexual diversity.

The state’s queer scene is concentrated on two islands, Oahu (home to Honolulu) and Hawaii (also known as the Big Island — home to Hawaii Island Pride). But Kauai offers stunning scenery and outdoor adventures while Maui has long drawn LGBTQ+ couples seeking romantic destination weddings and honeymoons. Hotel Wailea overlooks Maui’s South Shore and hosts Pride events each October, while Garden Isle’s Sheraton Kauai Coconut Beach has a long-standing monthly drag brunch with a vecourse meal. The clothing-optional, queer-friendly Little Beach, lies on Maui’s southeast.

Still, it is Oahu, and speci cally Hawaii’s capital, Honolulu, that shines the brightest as a queer destination. During the day, sunbathe at one of the local Waikiki beaches, hike the rainforest outside of town, or head to the ocean for sur ng or other water sports. Stop at Diamond Head L au which offers interactive, cultural activities like hula lessons, lei making, weaving, ukulele lessons, and tattooing.

Honolulu’s legendary gay nightlife spots include Bacchus Waikiki, Scarlet Honolulu, and Wang Chung’s Karaoke Bar (Chiko’s Tavern and In Between Waik k also feature karaoke). The monthly Freaky Friday stages drag performances and a shirts-optional gay dance. For accommodations mere steps to drag shows and male dancers, stay at Waik k Grand Hotel and enjoy its Hula’s Bar and Lei Stand. Otherwise consider Honolulu Pride gold-sponsor Alohilani Resort, with minimalist elegance, cultural immersion activities (lei-making, Indigenous treeplanting), and a 280,000-gallon lobby oceanarium, giving you an unrivaled view of native reef sh. —JAM

Upper Waikani Falls, also know as the Three Bears, on Oahu Island in Hawaii

MASSACHUSETTS

In Massachusetts the queer vacation spot — and top same-sex wedding destination —Provincetown gets all the attention. Gay parties happen almost every day in the summer and events draw tourists year-round. The flamboyant Carnival in August attracts 90,000 people, Women’s Week is in October, the 7-day transgender festival of Fantasia Fair is the oldest in the U.S., and in December the Santa run features contestants sporting little more than banana hammocks. But the first state in the U.S. to legalize same-sex marriage has more to o er LGBTQ+ travelers than P-town. Here’s what you’ll find elsewhere.

In Boston the gayest areas of town are South End and Jamaica Plains, both with plenty of queer-owned and -friendly spots. It’s not unusual for mainstream bars in Boston to host a

DENISTANGNEY, JR./GETTY IMAGES

weekly “gay night.” Our fave is Underbar, the place to go for drag and dancing. Dedicated queer spaces include Paradise Cambridge (with male go-go dancers), Club Café (a 25-year-old South End institution with dinner, dancing, drag, and cabaret), and DBar (which transforms from gastropub to nightclub). While in town take the self-guided Equality Trail walking tour that follows the route of Boston’s first Gay Pride March in 1971 or join elders for dinner at Out4Supper, the first Boston Supper Club for LGBTQ+ seniors and friends.

Located in mid-state, Northampton was famously dubbed “Lesbianville, USA” in the 1990s. Home to Smith College, the city does have a sizeable lesbian population but lots of other folks from the queer community as well. Nosh at the gay-owned Familiars Co ee

& Tea, located in a train car that has been serving food since 1932. Founded in the ’70s, FitzWilly’s Restaurant & Bar is reportedly lesbian comic Kate Clinton’s favorite haunt.

Take a bike tour of Northampton or down the Norwottuck Rail Trail which links the town with neighboring Hadley, Amherst, and Belchertown. A town that enjoys more cocktail bars than dance clubs, all the bars in Northampton are LGBTQ-friendly but The Majestic Saloon is currently the only true queer bar in town. It has weekly karaoke, dirty bingo, and signature cocktails including The Cher, The Madonna, The Beyoncé, and The Judy Garland. Bishop’s Lounge has live entertainment six nights a week and a monthly gay party.

In western Massachusetts (about 2 hours from Boston) you’ll find the Berkshires, a

Norman Rockwell-esque setting of farms, woodlands, and creeks. But unlike many rural areas in America, this one is decidedly queer-embracing. Hailing itself as America’s Premier Cultural Resort, the region takes their art seriously with the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art in North Adams joining previously established institutions like The Clark Art Institute (which features one of the premiere collections of Impressionist works). If you prefer live performances, come for the Williamstown Theatre Festival, a Tony Award-wining regional fest that draws top actors, directors, and playwrights from across the country. Stay at the lesbian-owned Topia Inn, a luxury eco-inn with spa amenities featured in The New York Times. And take in the drag brunch at Hawks & Reed. —JAM

Autumn fog in the village of Tyringham in the Berkshires region of Massachusetts

PUERTO RICO

American mainlanders are missing out on a rich piece of our nation’s culture and history if they haven’t visited Puerto Rico. The U.S. territory is a hidden multicultural Caribbean jewel that’s as exciting as Miami and warm as Aruba. Outside of Key West, it’s the most LGBTQ-embracing island in the region, with multiple Pride festivals and more LGBTQ-owned businesses than other Caribbean islands.

Technically, Puerto Rico is an archipelago in the northeast Caribbean. The main island is what most think of when they hear Puerto Rico, but there are four smaller islands (including the gorgeous and less traveled Vieques and Culebra). Hundreds of tiny uninhabited islands also dot its azure waters, as well as reefs of coral and sand.

The weather is 80 degrees year-round and there’s always stu to do during the wet, dry, and hurricane seasons (which peaks in September). Located between historic Old San Juan and the Condado area, the Caribe Hilton is set amid 17 acres of tropical gardens along its full beachfront, every room with an ocean view on an exclusive peninsula. The first Hilton outside the U.S. mainland, it is also San Juan’s largest. If you can, book a Condado Lagoon Villa for a treat. Elizabeth Taylor honeymooned here, and in 1954 the first Piña Colada was

reportedly created at Hilton’s Beachcomber Bar. (The piña colada is the o icial drink of Puerto Rico and more than one bar claims they invented it.) Today, Caribar at the Hilton makes a sparkling version that’s a must-try. For a gay-owned place to rest your head, the clothing-optional Coqui del Mar Guest House is popular.

Don’t limit yourself to a resort pool because there’s so much more of Puerto Rico to explore. Culinary or rum tours of Old San Juan are fabulous introductions to the island. The city’s many neighborhoods and thriving art scene beckon, and a revealing trip through the mangroves and bay on Isla Verde is enchanting. The super hip and artsy Santucci, where you’ll find theater, opera, music, art, and queers, is another must. There you can visit the Puerto Rico Museum of Art or the Contemporary Art Museum, and appreciate the colorful murals covering buildings around Calle Cerra.

Beaches abound from secluded to cruising to crowded. Nature lovers come out at night to bioluminescent bays (a species of phytoplankton is found only here, the Virgin Islands, and The Bahamas, and it makes the ocean glow like underwater fireflies). The Puerto Mosquito Bioluminescent Bay on the island of Vieques is famous for the bioluminescence produced by the dinoflagellate Pyrodinium

bahamense, which glows blue when agitated. Mosquito Bay is recognized by Guinness World Records as the planet’s brightest. A two-person moonlit kayak trek makes for a romantic, surreal, and ecofriendly experience.

Good bars and restaurants are everywhere in Puerto Rico, so it’s easy to mix it up — street corn croquettes at the Prole, beer at a gay bar like La Sombrilla Rosa (or at one of the clubs like La Cantina and El Cojo), drag shows at the Bitch Bar, or fresh-squeezed juices and live music at Esquina Watusi.

During the day, take a walking tour led by a Puerto Rican guide through La Perla. A working-class neighborhood built along a steep, colorful hillside in San Juan, La Perla was the setting for Luis Fonsi’s “Despacito” music video and home to the beautiful Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery. La Perla began as a slaughterhouse with living quarters for its workers, the poor, and jíbaros (rural folks). Once crime-ridden, a collusion of ingenuity, microbusinesses, and tourism has changed that. Stop at La Garita for the view and the lobster mofongo and snapper ceviche. Visit the Malecón, the boardwalk along the ocean beside the Ofrenda (murals that honor the dead), and taste the moonshine from one of the drink shacks along the beach.

—DIANE ANDERSON-MINSHALL

The colorful homes of the La Perla neighborhood in San Jaun, Puerto Rico

NEW YORK

New York City is the living breathing heart of the Empire State and there’s something here for everyone. Bring your walking shoes, and stay hydrated — NYC requires stamina, especially during the hot and humid summer months. Start downtown, and fortify yourself with a cup o’ joe or tea from a local street vendor.

History buffs and Hamilton fans rst stop should be the Trinity Church in the heart of the financial district. The Church has been there since New York was New Amsterdam, and is the nal resting place of Alexander Hamilton and his wife, Elizabeth Schuyler Hamilton, their son Philip Hamilton, Elizabeth’s sister, Angelica Schuyler Church, and Son of Liberty, tailor, and spy, Hercules Mulligan.

Nearby check out the Charging Bull (also known as the Bull of Wall Street), a bronze sculpture by Arturo Di Modica, then stop by the National Museum of the American Indian. Take a moment of silence at the September 11 memorial, then explore the World Trade Center, or just stare at the Oculus, an architectural marvel designed by Santiago Calatrava. You’re above the subway just about anywhere in the city, so take it to Chinatown. Visit the largest Buddha in NYC as well as the largest temple, at Mahayana Buddhist Temple, then pop in to Tasty Dumpling on Mulberry Street. Save room for cappuccino and a cannoli — or any pastry — at a Ferrara’s in nearby Little Italy, the rst pasticerria and espresso bar in the U.S.

Meander through SoHo and then on into The Village to visit the Stonewall National Monument. Stop by The Stonewall Inn to feel the history, enjoy the vibe, or have a drink and take in

the night’s scheduled event. Wrap it up with something sweet by stopping at Big Gay Ice Cream.

Don’t miss Times Square. Stand there and soak it all in, baby, because this is the crossroads of the world. When you see the nonstop hustle and bustle that it contains every second of the daily 24, you’ll know why this is the city that never sleeps — and why you needed all that food and coffee.

The city will entertain you 365 days a year, but there’s is more to the state than the metropolis, and some of it may surprise you. In Upstate New York, visit the famous Catskills with a stay at the Lazy Meadow, owned by none other than Kate Pierson of the B52s and her wife. It’s campy, cozy, kitschy, and just plain nice, with all the suites styled in “mind-blowing mid-century modern/space age/rocket-your-socks-off decor.”

If you use this as a base, you can visit Woodstock and wander among art galleries, or hike any of the hundreds of miles of trails. Learn more about the Indigenous people of this land with a visit to the Iroqois Museum, which offers hands-on workshops and live events in addition to a permanent exhibit.

Any time of year is a good time to go visit Lake Placid, home of the 1980 Winter Olympics. You can visit the rink where the U.S. defeated Russia in a rare feel-good moment (for the U.S.) in the superpower competition, the Miracle on Ice. Then drive to the top of Whiteface and see a castle built of native stone, admire the 360 degree view, and enjoy the restaurant or stop in downtown Lake Placid for a bite and drink at Top of the Park. There’s plenty more to do: this is New York, and no matter where you go there’s always something more to see, experience, learn, or be.—JD GLASS

Stonewall National Monument located across from the Stonewall Inn, Christopher Park has been at the center of the LGBTQ+ rights movement since the historic 1969 uprising

FLORIDA

While Florida is regularly in the news for anti-LGBTQ+ legislation, the state is still a playground for queer folks. That’s because one of the most politically conservative states in the country is home to some of the gayest cities.

Miami is considered a queer mecca and has boasted a gay nightlife scene since the 1930s, currently attracting over a million LGBTQ+ visitors a year. The city holds multiple Pride festivals and the main one, hosted in Miami Beach, is a week long. It will be bigger than usual in 2023 as it marks its 15th anniversary. Other great local Prides are held in Wynwood and Little Havana, which is the home of the largest Latinx LGBTQ+ festival in the U.S.

Miami also features some of the best drag performers in the country. Your visit won’t be complete without stopping at Palace South Beach. If you haven’t seen their TikTok videos already, it’s become a go-to spot for good food, muscular servers, and jaw-dropping drag stunts. R House in Wynwood also hosts an electric drag brunch, where visitors are treated to bottomless mimosas and a drag show that will have you screaming (and tipping) for over an hour straight, I mean, an hour gay

Of course, southern Florida’s beaches are always a must. In Miami you’ll nd 12th Street Beach lined with Pride ags and beautiful people. Haulover Beach is clothing-optional and locals and tourists alike gather to have fun in the sun.

Miami nightlife is next level. Check out Azucar, Twist, and Palace, but be sure to keep tabs on your phone and wallet. And don’t be afraid to ask the locals where the latest party is, they’re usually happy to show you the way.

Just over an hour north of Miami lies Fort Lauderdale, a smaller city but one of Florida’s most LGBTQ-friendly. According to stats on same-sex marriage compiled by the Williams Institute, Wilton Manors comes second to only

Provincetown, Massachusetts, for its percentage of queer couples. In midsized cities, Fort Lauderdale blew away its nearest-competition of Berkeley, California, for its percentage of same-sex couples. So naturally, the region boasts a wide range of LGBTQ+ bars, Pride festival, and attractions. Whether you’re staying at an exclusively gay resort or frolicking amongst the straights, you’re sure to have a good time. Make a point to soak up the sun at Sebastian Street Beach, one of the best (and gayest) beaches in the state.

Then there’s Key West, a small island on the straits of Florida. The city is very LGBTQ-inclusive with plenty of gay bars, LGBTQ-owned restaurants, and queerthemed adventures. It’s even home to a gay beach nicknamed after Liz Taylor (at the Fort Zachary Taylor State Historic Park). If you’re out at the bars, be sure to stop by the four rainbow crosswalks at the intersection of Duval and Petonia.

There are plenty of landmarks, watersports, beaches, and even LGBTQ+ museums to explore on the island of Key West, and the city hosts great queer events like Fantasy Fest, Womenfest, and New Year’s Eve. Visiting the southernmost point of the U.S. is like going to the end of the rainbow — totally gay!

—TAYLOR HENDERSON

Stavros Stavrakis as Athena Dion, a performer for R House in Wynwood

GEORGIA

You can’t truly understand the Civil Rights movement in America until you’ve been to Georgia. Don’t let the fact that the state is in the Bible Belt dissuade you from seeing the beautiful, vibrant, and richly diverse cities of Atlanta, Savanah, and Athens. The LGBTQ+ folks in those blue bubbles need your money to keep fighting the good fight and you’ll find that Georgia is also one of the safest and most queer welcoming of the Southern states (especially for Black LGBTQ+ folks).

Savannah is rooted in queer acceptance, according to José Harvey, the founder of the travel blog My Normal Gay Life. So while there are no gayborhoods, he says the “city is so accepting of LGBTQIA+ people that residents and visitors can visit any bar without fear of reprisal.” If you recall in the 1990s, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, a major studio film directed by Clint Eastwood, featured a trans woman playing a trans woman (the legendary Lady Chablis), and in 1994 the city’s female mayor declared it a safe haven for gays and lesbians. Chablis passed away in 2006, but her spirit lives on in this friendly Southern gothic seaside town. There’s an LGBTQ+ community center, historic neighborhoods, amazing architecture, and some areas most visitors have never seen (Tybee Island is a must). The Moon River District, 20 minutes south of downtown, is where you can kayak around barrier islands, discover Gullah-Geechee culture, and drive the gorgeous tree-lined path up to Wormsloe Historic site (a former plantation created on the backs of enslaved Black and Indigenous people). The Pin Point Heritage Museum is where a local guide will explain the Gullah-Geechee culture that has survived o the coast of Savannah.

Athens, about 70 miles north of Atlanta, is a typical college town (i.e., more liberal, younger) but with one exception: a fantastic, queer-friendly music scene. While the Indigo Girls came out of nearby Decatur, Georgia, both the B52s and Michael Stipe of REM were born in Athens. There’s been a public push for gay rights since two students started a group in 1971. And there are a ton of events like the weekly Showgirl Cabaret and the annual Boyxxx

fundraiser for HIV. LGBTQ-owned and -friendly restaurants abound (get brunch at Mama’s Boy, one of the South’s best biscuit joints) or Creature Comforts (part of the Athens Beer Trail).

Atlanta has often been dubbed the LGBTQ+ capital of the South, and it has the receipts to prove it: endless queer events, entertainment, festivals, bars, restaurants, and parties. Visit Martin Luther King Jr. National Historic Park, King’s childhood home, the historic sites where he led demonstrations, and Ebenezer Baptist Church where he preached. The National Center for Civil and Human Rights is an emotive museum with powerful immersive exhibits that let you stand in the shoes of the protestors (at demonstrations like the Lunch Counter Sit-In). Images of the Freedom Riders show the vast diversity of those fighting for civil rights. Discover Atlanta offers self-directed tours exploring the city’s rich progressive history. There’s also the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum and the Trap Music Museum, both worth visiting.

Atlanta has several gayborhoods, including Midtown where you’ll find an entire queer world and Downtown (which is touristy but becoming a hotspot). Plenty of LGBTQ-owned restaurants and boutiques can be found in both Cabbagetown and Grant Park while Ansley Square shopping center has been called a virtual gay courtyard because of all the gay bars and stores.

Sunday brunch with the queens at Tra ik is a must. Go all-in with the chicken and wa les with honey butter and bottomless mimosas.

In East Atlanta, you’ll find Mary’s and My Sisters Room, one of last lesbian bars le in the U.S; it’s been an Atlanta staple since the 1990s and is gay/bi/trans-friendly. The all-Black Monday-night drag show NeonBLK at gay bar Mary’s often boasts Drag Race contestants and other legendary global drag stars.

There’s also an amazing ball scene in Atlanta, where you’ll find the House of Balenciaga among others. A great entry is visiting the LSS Popup Ball (which is hosted by the legendary Norman Ebony with Paris Da on the mic). This weekly event is the closest many folks will get to the worlds seen on Pose and there’s an open to all categories if you want to strut your stu . —DAM

Majestic live oaks flanking a dirt road at the iconic Wormsloe Historic Site in Savannah

OREGON

There are so many reasons to love Oregon, including that this home to so many lesbians is nicknamed the Beaver State. Here’s why it’s great for LGBTQ+ folks and adventurers of every stripe.

The Oregon Zoo in Portland has welltreated and loved animals, delicious food, and fun events, especially Zoo Lights in winter and Zoo Concerts in the summer.

Another fun family event is going to a Portland Thorns game. The National Women’s Soccer League 2022 Champions play at Providence Park. The team has several lesbian players and the matches are very LGBTQ-welcoming. Even the Portland Thorns’ scarfs are rainbow.

Eugene, Oregon, hosts pre-Olympic trials for track and field. The U.S. Track & Field Championships are precursors to every summer Olympic Games. The World Athletics Championships were also held in Eugene in 2022, the first time an American city hosted the event. A great way to get tickets is to volunteer.

Theater lovers flock to the state every year. Ashland, Oregon, is a sports fan town where the sport is Shakespeare. Oregon Shakespeare Festival performances run from March to October in venues around the festival campus, including an outdoor space reminiscent of the Globe in England. OSF is also known for premiering plays not by the Bard. In 2022, the first Black woman artistic director, Nataki Garrett, was elected.

Ashland isn’t the only place to catch the action. In Portland, the Original Practice Shakespeare Festival (OPS Fest) is the queerest Shakespeare company west of the Mississippi. Gender-neutral casting is a hallmark. OPS o ers free performances in public parks during the summers.

There are endless outdoor activities and gorgeous natural features to see in Oregon. Multnomah Falls is one of the most photographed and worth more than just a side of the road stop. Take the Multnomah Falls Trail from the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic area near Bridal Veil for a 2.6-mile out-and-back trek. For more falls and a longer trek, head to Silver Falls State Park and take the gorgeous 7.4 mile Trail of Ten Falls loop.

Or visit Blue River, Oregon, and follow the McKenzie River National Recreation Trail to the beautiful turquoise waters of Tamolitch Pool. A more strenuous hike is the 3.5mile loop Misery Ridge & River Trail near Terrebonne. Another natural wonder not to miss is Crater Lake National Park, home to the deepest lake in the U.S.

If you prefer your winter destinations a little creepier, stay at Timberline Lodge near Government Camp, Oregon. It was used for the exterior shots in Stanley Kubrick’s terrifying film The Shining. Settle your nerves with a Spanish co ee at the Ram’s Head Bar before you go skiing, snowboarding, or sledding. Or just sit by

the fire and enjoy a warm drink while your friends brave the slopes.

Unique food options also abound in Oregon. Of course, Voodoo Doughnuts is a Portland institution, but some of our favorites are farther afield. South of Bend, you’ll find Bigfoot Tavern guarded by a giant Sasquatch carved out of a tree. The food is great and portions are almost big enough for Bigfoot herself.

The Cowboy Dinner Tree is perhaps the most remote restaurant in Oregon, near Silver Lake. You have to call ahead and order your entrée: a 30-ounce sirloin steak or an entire roast chicken. There are a few cabins to rent on-site if you can’t make it home.

If you want really fresh or old-style smoked salmon, stop under the “Bridge of the Gods” up the Columbia River Gorge on Interstate 84. Native American families who have fished the Columbia River for centuries sell some of what they catch.

Visit the wreck of the Peter Iredale near Fort Stevens in Warrenton, Oregon during low tide and you can explore the ship’s remains. It ran aground in 1906, enroute to the Columbia River.

Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum in McMinnville houses the Spruce Goose, a wooden airship built by eccentric billionaire Howard Hughes. The largest airplane of its kind ever built, it flew for an hour and then never again.

—DUSTINA HAASE-LANIER

Hiking a trail near the Oregon coast

LOUISIANA

Louisiana is home to one of the gayest cities on the planet in New Orleans. The city itself has a rich 300-year history but the state’s Indigenous communities go back far longer. New Orleans is a melting pot and is heavily shaped by the BIPOC who gave the city its jazz music, creole food, and air of vibrancy.

The city has events taking place throughout the year that will appeal to just about every type of LGBTQ+ visitor, including Pride, Southern Decadence, Gay Easter, Halloween New Orleans, and, of course, Mardi Gras. But there’s also the festival season which includes the French Quarter Fest and food festivals for po’ boys and even fried chicken.

New Orleans is a haven for the South’s burgeoning artists and creatives, especially in the queer community. Peruse the galleries in the French Quarter and check out the local artists that gather at Jackson Square. If you’re lucky, you might find yourself at a pop-up in the Marigny & Bywater neighborhoods.

Gay playwright Tennessee Williams lived in the French Quarter and made the city the setting of plays like A Streetcar Named Desire and Vieux Carré. The city hosts the annual Tennessee Williams & New Orleans Literary Festival and the Saints & Sinners LGBTQ+ Literary Festival each March.

The architecture of the city is worth a day devoted to exploring. Whether you’re strolling the blocks of the French Quarter, riding the streetcar up St. Charles through the Garden District and Uptown with its large Southern pre-Civil War era mansions, or the colorful shotguns of the Marigny & Bywater, NOLA is an architectural feast for the eyes and will make you feel like you’ve stepped into another country (or countries).

No discussion of New Orleans is complete without mentioning the food. Simply put, the food in New Orleans may be the best in the country, and eating your way through the city is a great way to explore its cultural heritage. Make a reservation for lunch at the Commanders Place for some gussiedup po’ boys and 25-cent martinis, or stop by Willie Mae’s Scotch House for its famous fried chicken.

Those venturing outside of New Orleans into the surrounding deeply-red countryside will pass beautiful wetlands on their way to the capital of Baton Rouge. This thriving college town is generally filled with more progressive students from the local Louisiana State University and has several gay bars. Visit the low-key George’s Place for trivia contests and to catch a Tigers football game or hit up Splash Nightclub for drag shows and parties.

Regardless of where you visit in Louisiana, perhaps its best selling point is its famed Southern hospitality. I always say if you can get someone to visit here for the first time, the people here will do the rest. The first time I hear someone, even a complete stranger, callout “Hey, my baby,” I know I’m back home in Louisiana.

—TIM SNOW

Pirate Alley in the French Quarter in New Orleans

ILLINOIS

Chicago is often viewed as the rst true American city, having risen in size and importance at an astronomical pace during the 19th century, the result of its location at the hub of rail lines crossing the developing country. Not even the Great Fire of 1871 could slow its growth.

Thankfully, the city also benefited from wealthy philanthropists and visionaries, and now is home to some of the world’s best museums. The Field Museum of Natural History is one of the largest of its kind and houses enormous dinosaur fossils. The Art Institute of Chicago’s collection is extensive and includes classics like Grant Wood’s “American Gothic” and Edward Hopper’s “Nighthawks.”

Folks looking for family will find it in the Northalsted neighborhood (still known as Boystown to locals) and Andersonville. Northalsted has hosted the annual Pride celebration since 1971, only taking a break during the global slowdown. The gayborhood is home to the Legacy Walk, America’s rst outdoor LGBTQ+ museum. Andersonville has been dubbed the coolest neighborhood in the country, and it would be hard not to agree. From ne dining to kink to the feminist Women & Children First independent bookstore and Swedish American Museum, Andersonville oozes cool.

The Cahokia Mounds State Historic Site, located in Collinsville, Illinois preserves the mounds of an Indigenous civilization that thrived from 900 to 1500 AD

MICHAEL S. LEWIS/GETTY IMAGES

Once outside of the city, Illinois opens its small-town charm and natural beauty to the intrepid traveler.

Just south of Chicago in Wilmette is the Bahá’í House of Worship, the largest temple of its faith ever constructed. Because of delays caused by the Great Depression and World War II, the temple took over 40 years to complete. The ornate dome has a stunning architectural design and is open daily to all for contemplation, prayer, and meditation.

In the northwest corner of the state is the charming town of Galena, famed for its well-preserved examples of 19th-century architecture and the 18th U.S. president Ulysses S. Grant, who worked in his father’s tannery before ghting in the Civil War. There’s a small museum in his honor, as well as the house the city gave him for his efforts in the war. Many believe that the quaint, historic downtown area of Galena is also one of the most haunted places in the country.

Spring eld, the state’s capital, is hometown to one of our rumored-queer presidents, Abraham Lincoln. Visit the museum in his honor and stop at his tomb. After criminals attempted to steal the late president’s remains and hold them for ransom, the family later decided to bury him under 10 feet of concrete.

Just east of St. Louis is Cahokia Mounds State Historic Site, featuring the largest pre-Columbian era city in North America outside of Mexico. Construction on the mounds began by hand in the 9th century C.E. and continued over the next few centuries, resulting in massive structures with broad plateaus. Monks Mound, the tallest in the park, tops out at 10 stories tall.

Farther south, the natural beauty of Shawnee National Forest and the Garden of the Gods calls adventurers. The area is amongst the most scenic in the state, and a moderately dif cult 6.3-mile-loop trail provides great hiking, birding, and backpacking opportunities.

—DONALD PADGETT

TOP COUNTRIES TO VISIT IN 2023

We count down our top LGBTQ-embracing destinations.

This year LGBTQ+ travelers want destinations that offer something special, whether that is cultural immersion, historical or culinary tours, out-of-this world adventure, gorgeous beaches, or just the biggest queer parties on the planet. With that in mind we chose our top seven countries, including destinations in the Americas, Europe, Asia, Oceania, and Africa.

1CANADA GO NORTH YOUNG QUEERS

BY JACOB ANDERSON-MINSHALL

Canada is one of the most LGBTQinclusive countries in the world. In fact, it topped the 2022 LGBTQ+ Travel Safety Index, an annual ranking of the 203 safest (and worst) countries for queer travel. America’s neighbor to the north also has stunningly beautiful wilderness, leading ski resorts, vibrant Indigenous communities, and culturally diverse cities.

In the predominately French-speaking province of Quebec, Montréal has oldworld European charm in neighborhoods with cobblestoned streets. The annual Fierté Montréal Pride Festival is one of Canada’s most colorful. The Gay Village’s Rue Sainte-Catherine, becomes a walking promenade during most summer months and the queers have busted out of the neighborhood, spilling into the surrounding historic district with additional LGBTQ-owned shops, spas, and restaurants.

On the banks of the Great Lakes, Toronto is said to hold the title for the most diverse metropolis in the world, where 230 nationalities are represented and the residents speak over 140 languages. The largest city in Canada’s kaleidoscope of cultures has helped spice up the vibrant culinary scene and neighborhoods. Toronto’s celebration of diversity extends to its LGBTQ+ citizens. The Village at Church and Wellesley remains a queer institution and the

trendy Queen Street West is sprinkled with new LGBTQ+ hangouts.

Calgary is in the Alberta prairie but perfectly located to explore the Canadian Rockies and the country’s most stunning national parks. Nearby Jasper Basin holds one of the top gay ski weeks. Calgary is also known for its cowboys, and the city hosts the world’s largest gay rodeo association, so visitors may be surprised at its metropolitan neighborhoods and shocked it’s home to the biggest queer Canadian nightclub west of Montreal, Twisted Element.

Between the Pacific Ocean and the base of North Shore Mountains, Vancouver is a beautiful city that draws LGBTQ+ visitors year-round. Its location provides a great starting point for outdoor adventure whether it’s hiking the local trails, kayaking to Vancouver Island, or hitting the nearby slopes at Whistler, Canada’s top ski resort. As the country’s biggest port, the city has attracted a diverse population, which has helped fuel its bourgeoning foodie and art scenes. There are two gayborhoods: Davie Village, with a wide variety of gay bars, restaurants, and stores; and Commercial Drive (also locally known as The Drive), home to a thriving lesbian community. The largest Pride celebration in western Canada is held in Vancouver every August.

Toronto skyline and Lake Ontario at twilight

THE DUTCH CARIBBEAN LGBTQ-FRIENDLY CARIBBEAN ISLANDS.

The Caribbean islands represent a range of communities whose diversity has been intensified by their colonial pasts. The Dutch Caribbean (once known as the Dutch West Indies) are islands once claimed by the Netherlands, specifically: Aruba, Curaçao, and Sint Maarten.

The Dutch are some of the most accepting of LGBTQ+ rights and these islands embrace queer travelers, (though some admittedly haven’t extended true equality to all their own citizens).

Sint Maarten is half an island (the other half is Saint Martin, which follows French laws, including marriage equality). On the Dutch side, homosexuality was never a crime, but the government hasn’t embraced same-sex marriage rights. You’ll find plenty to do here when you can pull yourself away from the gorgeous beaches. The restaurant L’Escargot is known for its French cooking, and La Cage Aux Follesstyle cabarets. Bliss is the island’s best gay-friendly nightclub. The open-air space has a pool, dance floor, and two bars that specialize in creative mixology, plus plenty of space for lounging.

Aruba hasn’t codified LGBTQ+ equality in law, but queer travelers will find themselves warmly welcomed to the “One happy island” that prides itself on embracing diversity. Those seeking adventure should turn to De Palm Tours for dune tours and o -road safaris; as well as SNUBA, snorkeling, and semi-submersible exploration of the underwater world. Pamper yourself with a visit to the spas at The Ritz-Carlton, Aruba, or Aruba Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino. Outside the hurricane belt, Aruba offers year-round sunshine, vibrant art and culinary scenes, and ambitious sustainability e orts. At last report, 7 Club Lounge Bar (@7), once known as Jimmy’s Place, remains closed.

Curaçao is one of the Caribbean’s smaller islands, with a population of 160,000, off the coast of Venezuela. The island never criminalized homosexual relations and in 2011, passed anti-discrimination protections for gay and bisexual people. Lyric’s Café was once the island’s only regular queer venue, but many locals now drink and dance at Wet and Wild Beach Club. Floris Suite Hotel’s LGBTQ+ Rainbow Lounge holds quarterly parties and events. Nearby Moomba Beach is an adults-only gay-friendly beach where the boys hang out.

Two fishing boats in Curaçao on a white sand beach

2JUSTIN LEWIS/GETTY IMAGES

SOUTH AFRICA

A VIBRANT LAND OF CONTRASTS

BY DONALD PADGETT

South Africa is a land of amazing natural and cultural contrasts and is a much sought-after destination for adventurous LGBTQ+ travelers.

No visit to South Africa is complete without an extended stay in Cape Town. This cosmopolitan city has a vibrant food and arts scene with plenty of opportunities for exploring, and iconic Table Mountain looms over it all. To sample the city’s eclectic art scene try a walking tour of the Woodstock Street Art District. The Cape Town region also o ers hiking, swimming, surfing, sport fishing, and golf. You can also try your hand at lawn bowling or take in a match of cricket. Day trips to nearby wine regions are highly recommended, with many tour operators providing outings.

Another must-see destination is Robben Island northwest of the city. Nelson Mandela served 18 of his 27 years in prison here. The island penal colony had a reputation for harsh conditions and prisoner abuse. Closed for good in 1996, it is now a South African National Heritage Site as well as an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

There is no hiding the nation’s ugly history of apartheid, the institutional system of racial segregation that plagued South Africa for decades. And yet the people persevered and overcame the oppressive system and continue to address the injustices that it wrought. Johannesburg’s Apartheid Museum enumerates those errors, while o ering hope for the country’s future by highlighting the nation’s constitutional pillars enshrining freedom and equality (including for LGBTQ+ people). Consider also exploring the city with a walking tour, which can include spots important to both Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi, the Indian leader who lived in South Africa for over two decades.

An hour-long flight south takes you to Durban, famed for its Golden Mile of shoreline on the Indian Ocean. The city is home to the largest concentration of Indian nationals outside of India, and their cultural influences are reflected in the area’s diverse foodie scene. A visit to the nearby Valley of 1000 Hills provides an excellent opportunity to learn more about the Zulus, the country’s largest Indigenous tribe.

North of the city, a wind-blown, nondescript location is home to the Nelson Mandela Capture Site memorial and museum documenting not just Mandela’s 1962 arrest and 27-year imprisonment, but also the Nobel Prize winner’s subsequent political contributions.

Gira es under an acacia tree in the African savannah

THAILAND BANGKOK AND BEYOND

Thailand has a rich culture and long embrace of gender and sexual diversity, and outlaws LGBTQ+ discrimination. In the most LGBTQwelcoming country in South East Asia, Bangkok is considered the region’s queer capital. On the city’s pedestrian-only streets in the gayborhood Silom, you’ll find gay bars including Circus, Balcony, and Stranger Bar (considered the epicenter of Bangkok drag culture). The neighborhood features many

MALTA

A MULTICULTURAL PARADISE

Malta is a small archipelago of islands, just off the southern coast of Sicily in the Mediterranean Sea. The country has been continuously occupied for almost 8,000 years as an important port and trading hub connecting Europe, Africa, and the Middle East. Its culture re ects these intersectional roots and Maltese food is a nuanced blend of many worlds.

Malta is known for gorgeous views and perfect year-round weather. Peak season is both crowded and pricey, but in spring or fall, fewer tourists compete for space on its beaches and in its restaurants.

Visit the fortified cities of Mdina and Birgu, the former established by Phoenicians in the 8th century B.C.E. Gozo should still be high on your list, even without the Azure Window, a limestone arch that once reached into the sea before collapsing in 2017. Visit the worldrenowned Blue Lagoon on the island of Camino. The breathtaking natural pool features deep azure-colored waters.

Malta is gaining a reputation as one of the most queer-inclusive spots in Europe, with festive annual Pride celebrations every September. It would be dif cult to name every gay bar and LGBTQ-welcoming establishment in Malta, but there are a few that top our list. We love club Lollipop, located in the coastal

other LGBTQ+ establishments including hotels, massage parlors, clubs, saunas, and restaurants. After partying all night refresh by checking in for an advanced wellness experience at luxury spa Sindhorn Wellness by Resense.

Bangkok is enough to captivate any traveler for weeks on end, but you’ll want to visit other areas as well.

Taking a train is a great way to travel through Thailand, but some areas can only be reached by boat. Gay tours are abundant, for example, Out Of O ice o ers numerous options from island hopping to culinary tours to a New Year’s celebration on a gay beach.

Phuket is another common queer destination. There the Patong neighborhood plays home to gay bar and cabaret club Zig Bar/Zag Club and the Patong beach where Phuket Pride is held each year.

Visit Koh Samui in southern Thailand, where the queer-run Samui Elephant Sanctuary allows elephants to retire from giving rides or entertaining tourists. Enjoy your own refuge at gay-owned Six Senses Samui Thailand which features an infinity pool overlooking the gulf of Thailand — and your own tree house. Party at Pride Bar Samui which features drag queens and karaoke.—JAM

THATREE THITIVONGVAROON/GETTY IMAGES (THAILAND); TRABANTOS/GETTY IMAGES (MALTA)

capital city of Valetta. The Birdcage Lounge in Rabat has a fun mixed crowd and karaoke. Though not an exclusively LGBTQ+ space, lesbian-owned Maori is popular due to its monthly parties for queer women. The Phoenicia in Valetta offers 1920s elegance and 5-star luxury while the Marco Polo Party hostel in St Julian’s provides a lively mixed crowd.—DP

Three rocks in Cheow Lan Lake, Khao Sok National Park at Suratthani, Thailand

View of Upper Barrakka gardens in Valletta, Malta

AUSTRALIA

ADVENTURES DOWN UNDER

Australia is a dream destination for adventurers, albeit a distant one. The nation’s Great Barrier Reef just o the coast of Queensland is rightfully on many travelers’ bucket lists — and Sydney is undeniably a gay hot spot. But with abundant natural beauty, outdoor adventures, historical sites, and a rich Indigenous peoples’ culture, the island continent has much more to see.

In Sydney, New South Wales, the world-famous Harbor Bridge and Opera House are must-sees, with the more daring climbing the bridge itself. Also worth a visit is the Royal Botanical Gardens, the gay Oxford Street LGBTQ+ district, and the Sea Life Aquarium to observe Sphen and Magic (aka Sphengic), the world-famous gay penguin couple. You can also learn about Australia’s history as a

MEXICO

FLY SOUTH FOR SUN, SAND, AND ZONA ROSAS.

Mexico continues to be a top destination for queer travelers. The country’s tourism department (SECTUR) reports 3.5 million LGBTQ+ visitors annually.

The resort town of Acapulco is luring queers back and gaining a reputation as a gay party town with Las Vegas-style drag shows, techno nightclubs, and beachside dancing.

The capital of Jalisco, Guadalajara, is often called the “Gay Capital of Mexico.” Its gayborhood is located in the historic center of town, where parties spill into the streets most nights.

Mexico City is one of the largest metros in the world and has a thriving LGBTQ+ population. The local Pride is one of the largest in Latin America. The city’s Zona Rosa neighborhood is home to a vibrant scene, with more than 50 LGBTQ+ nightclubs, cool boutiques, and delicious restaurants. Mexico City has world-class museums like the one dedicated to bisexual artist Frida Kahlo.

penal colony with visits to Cockatoo Island and the Hyde Park Barracks. Walk the cliffs outside Bondi Beach and Manley, where at least 80 gay men were killed in the latter portion of the last century.

In Queensland the Great Barrier Reef may be the most famous tourist destination, but the state is also home to Daintree Rainforest.

At Adelaide in southern Australia, you can cage-dive with great white sharks. The area is also renowned for its wine regions, including McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Adelaide Hills, Clare Valley, and Coonawarra. Head north to Darwin, famous for its 86 degree waters. The Tiwi Islands, home to a large Indigenous population, are renowned for fishing and isolated resorts. The waters here are crystal clear and invitingly warm, but patrolled by deadly crocs.

Retrace the route of the 1994 film The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, starting at the Imperial Hotel in Sydney, with visits to Broken Hill and its Queenslander-styled Palace Hotel, the mining community of Coober Pedy (BYO ping pong balls), and finishing at the Lasseters Hotel Casino in Alice Springs. In late February and early March, Sydney will be hosting its annual Mardi Gras as well as Sydney WorldPride. It’s the first time WorldPride will be held in the southern hemisphere.—DP

The Riviera Maya destination of Playa del Carmen features white-sand beaches and turquoise waters. There are three gay beaches here: Mamitas Beach, Coco Beach, and Xangrila Beach.

Becoming known as the “Mexican San Francisco,” Puerto Vallarta features some of the most beautiful beaches.

The city’s Romantic Zone is a popular spot during the day and locals and tourists mingle at buzzy queer clubs nearly every night of the week. During Pride (celebrated here in May), the neighborhood becomes one big block party. Take a day trip to Punta de Mita or nearby Marietas Islands.—JAM

East Point mangroves, Darwin, Australia

Cenote Ik Kil in the Yucatan is a huge limestone hole that has collapsed and sunk, creating a large body of water now used as a swimming hole

NATIONAL ADVENTURES

These 10 underrated federal parks offer all the thrills but none of the crowd.

BY DONALD PADGETT

MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK, COLORADO

Climb a ladder 32 feet up a canyon wall on a ranger-guided tour to explore the Balcony House, a 13th-century cliff dwelling in the Four Corners region of southwestern Colorado. The area has been inhabited in varying forms since 9,500 BCE, and the Park includes 5,000 archeological sites and 600 cliff dwellings.

OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK, WASHINGTON Hike and backpack through the only rainforest in the continental U.S., a lush expanse of forest consisting of trees and ferns with trails leading to numerous waterfalls and Instagramable moments.

ROCKY MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK, COLORADO Backpack through forests, meadows, and waterfalls en route to the Continental Divide.

CHANNEL ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK, CALIFORNIA Go sea kayaking, drop anchor in a cove, bask alone on miles of deserted beaches, surf next to historic shipwrecks, or camp next to giant elephant seals.

DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK, CALIFORNIA Hop into your trusted 4x4 and head into the backcountry of this desert wonderland, where you can climb mountainous sand dunes and then soak in some of the most isolated hot springs in the country.

CANYONLANDS NATIONAL PARK, UTAH Take a multi-day mountain biking trip through the meandering canyons, along red-colored cliffs, and atop mesas with jaw-dropping views in The Maze, the park’s isolated wilderness area.

BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON NATIONAL PARK, COLORADO Some sections of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison are so steep they reportedly get little more than 30 minutes of sunshine per day. The verticality of the walls makes the Park a mecca for rock climbers who are de nitely not afraid of heights.

DRY TORTUGAS NATIONAL PARK, FLORIDA Snorkel and scuba dive in some of the least disturbed coral reefs in the Florida Keys, plus explore Fort Jackson, a well-preserved mason fort from the antebellum and Civil War eras. The park is so isolated and remote, it is only accessible by seaplane or boat.

DENALI NATIONAL PARK, ALASKA Hike and backpack through pristine forests and tundra meadows, explore glaciers, mingle with grizzly bears, and climb North America’s highest peak, Mt. Denali, at this massive and isolated wonderland of wildlife and natural beauty.

NATIONAL PARK OF AMERICAN SAMOA, AMERICAN SAMOA Snorkel coral reefs, hike through rainforests, nd abandoned artifacts of World War II, and immerse yourself in Samoan culture while also enjoying some of the most beautiful beaches and waters in the world.

Green River Overlook in Canyonlands National Park, Utah

TRENDS IMPACTING TRAVEL IN 2023

The way people travel is in flux, here’s what you need to know.

BY JACOB ANDERSON-MINSHALL

number of people previously prevented from traveling are venturing into the world, and queers are leading the way. Here’s what will be de ning travel this year.

FLEXIBILITY More than ever, in 2023, flexibility in our travel plans is critically important. This past year, flights have been canceled over sta ing issues, climate disasters, political instability, social protests, and more. Favorite destinations have similarly become suddenly inaccessible as the earth changes shape and political winds switch directions. Where you are going, how you get there, and when you can travel are factors that aren’t always in your control now. Fortunately, generous cancellation policies are also making it easier for travelers to respond to these complications.

TRAVEL ADVISERS & GROUP TOURS

To manage these turbulent waters, more travelers are turning to travel advisers or picking experiences that are put together and managed by someone else. Queer travel influencers and advisers, tour groups and brands like Olivia, Atlantis, R Family Vacations, Vacaya, and even our cover stars’ company OUTbound are all ready to answer the call.

ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME TRAVEL In 2023 we want more from our travel. We’re no longer satisfied with visits to places where everyone is promised the exact same experience and then exit out of a tacky gi shop. We want oneof-a-kind experiences that leave us with more

memories than photos and souvenirs. We want to connect with local LGBTQ+ folks. This is dovetailing with the rise of Indigenous travel, as we choose to get to know Native peoples.

LUXURY TRAVEL With travelers demanding more from our visits and willing to pay for unique and elevated experiences, the luxury travel industry is booming. Many “everyday” folks who would never have been considered part of the luxury market, are pushing their way into the space so they can see how the other side lives. These bespoke experiences are not available at bargain prices, but travelers are willingly saving up to have them. Contradictorily, we’re seeing a simultaneous growth around cheap travel as well. A er blowing their wad on a once-in-lifetime experience, travelers aren’t staying home. They are just looking for bargains.

SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY There’s a growing desire to avoid doing harm to destinations visited. Maybe it’s because the people new to luxury travel aren’t wealthy year-round, maybe it’s because when people living in a locale remind us of ourselves, we’re more inclined to

ensure that our pleasure and personal growth don’t come at their expense. More travelers want to interact with the locals (not just as servers) and do something (volunteer, donate, educate) to help people there live their best lives.

SLOW OR NO GO TRAVEL Also stemming from our desire to have meaningful experiences and really enjoy our trips, is an increasing interest in slow travel. This is all about embracing the journey, rather than focusing on hitting 15 must-see places in three days. It’s choosing train rides over airplanes so you can see the countryside or driving so you can make stops at every Pride event or gay bar in the state. In 2022 Fodor’s released a list of “no go” locations, places that are endangered by over-tourism or threatened by the climate crisis. Sometimes the best thing you can do for the place you love is stay away for a season or two.

OUTSIDER TRAVELERS People who previously didn’t travel are now getting on planes, trains, and automobiles. There are more people of color, more people of size, and more people with disabilities who are traveling now than ever before. And there are more LGBTQ+ people, including queer people who are visibly di erent from the mainstream. They’re demanding space and showing up in unexpected venues around the world. Not everyone’s ready for them, but that’s just too damn bad. It’s 20-fucking-23.

The pandemic disrupted the industry and continues to change how, where, when, and why we travel. The growing climate crisis, manifested in global weather disasters (from excessive heat to fires, to floods, to hurricanes, to earthquakes, to extreme winter weather events) plays havoc with our plans. Despite these hurdles and ongoing economic inequalities, a growing

WE’RE HERE

Bob the Drag Queen, Eureka O’Hara, and Shangela have visited every corner of the country. Here’s what they learned.

BY RICKY CORNISH

The farther you get from urban centers, the story goes, the less tolerant the country becomes. HBO’s hit show We’re Here shows what happens when three famous queens show up in rural America to help locals stage their own drag shows.

Three seasons in, Bob the Drag Queen , Eureka O’Hara, and Shangela re ect on the deeper meaning behind bringing their fabulosity to destinations that need a dash of sparkle and inclusivity.

“This has been a real opportunity for [us] to give back to kids that grew up like us,” O’Hara says. “And hopefully educate people who are not used to us. That’s what we need in this country more than ever right now.”

Shangela says giving queer people in conservative places a sense of belonging to something larger than themselves is essential: “Creating a sense of community is very important. Feeling uplifted by those people you consider your community is very, very important.”

We’re Here has visited many conservative destinations through its three seasons, including towns in Florida, Texas, Utah, Idaho, Missouri, Alabama, Indiana, and Hawaii.

As well-traveled entertainers, these queens have learned key skills for navigating places that aren’t particularly queerfriendly.

“Google is always a great resource,” Bob the Drag Queen says. “Read the reviews! If all else fails, go to the makeup store and ask the gay guy there where to go.”

“Find the makeup store girl and you’ll find a gay,” jokes O’Hara. “Follow your instincts. We as queer people have learned how to read the room. It’s how we’ve grown to defend ourselves. Pay attention to the signs. If you don’t feel safe, then listen to those instincts.”

“I’m no stranger to growing up in a small, conservative town,” Shangela acknowledges. “And I know what challenges that can come, especially for an LGBTQ+ person. In those spaces, there

are loving, amazing queer people who deserve to feel connected. It’s not scary or strange or foreign to me…it just feels right.”

While We’re Here’s visibility comes through the screen thanks to the erce drag queens, much of the show’s success comes from the work behind the scenes. Husbands Johnnie Ingram and Stephen Warren, who created and executive produce the show, team up with director and executive producer Peter LoGreco to nd essential places for the show to visit.

“There’s a lot of really terri c small towns out there that are welcoming,” Ingram says. “There’s an opportunity in all small communities for the queer community to thrive. We highlight a ton of safe spaces and to see the love out there, even in the face of hate, is emotional and wonderful.”

“We have a wonderful cast of people that go out, scour the internet, and look for interesting stories that re ect some unique aspect of queer life in different places,” Warren explains. “Each of these places — we may have been threatened, but we nd the courage to be ourselves and we’re rewarded with so much love.”

LoGreco adds, “We wanted to nd small communities where the politics has taken on queer people. In the long run, that’s a very positive thing for the LGBTQ+ community and for the show to be able to put that on display in an active way.”

Many queer travelers fear being themselves in certain parts of the country, but the team encourages everyone to be brave and visit places outside of their typical bubbles.

“Don’t be afraid,” Ingram says. “You will nd a lot of people that are af rming, supportive, and wonderful. It’s important to explore different types of places, so we understand that there are queer people in these towns that are fun.”

“In Granbury, Texas, the queens organized a karaoke night at this local bar and it was so fun,” Warren says. “Queer and nonqueer people performing karaoke together…I think it actually moves the needle a tiny bit. If you take that plunge and just be yourself and be kind, you’ll have a great story.”

Bob, Shangela, and Eureka

CAPTURE

Love Story in

Paradise

By

A photographer shares images of his long-term partner from their trips to Hawaii.

Jacob Anderson-Minshall + Photography by Joe Schmelzer

IN HIS IMAGES, PHOTOGRAPHER

Joe Schmelzer captures the beauty of ordinary life and the quiet intimacy of his 12-year relationship with partner and muse Nick Berry. We recently spoke with Schmelzer about that work, his relationship, and what draws him to Hawaii.

Your work finds the extraordinary in mundane moments. That’s also a great traveling mindset. There is [always] something “beautiful” around you. I think many people long for the “perfect” or most “magical” — when maybe that moment is actually right in front of them already. I always hear things like “How do I take the perfect sunset pic?” or things like that. My answer always seems to be “You don’t.” Some moments are meant to actually be experienced, and not photographed. What draws you back to Hawaii? I have always loved Hawaii, and many years ago I took Nick for the rst time. He fell in love as well. Over the last decade, we have pretty much gone over and over, and every time for longer and longer. The North Shore of Oahu...is our absolute favorite. I guess I would just call it our “happy place.”

In Hawaii, there is an energy that I cannot explain…. Somehow, we have connected with that energy. The island has taught me what the word “relax” means. It has slowed me down. It has taught me to appreciate even more the “everyday moments.” And, through that I believe it has brought Nick and I closer together. It is hard to put into words the feeling, but all I do know is that I love that feeling.

I do feel that the connection of us together making these photographs de nitely brings us closer together and creates a special bond that goes beyond words.

@joeschmelzer @treasurbite and @nicktberry

This Romantic Venue Combines Luxe Elegance with Pastoral Beauty

Nemacolin Resort has everything a couple could want for their dream wedding.

By Mey Rude Photography courtesy Nemacolin Resort

In the Laurel Highlands of southwestern Pennsylvania, Nemacolin Resort sits on 2,000 idyllic acres, where it features high-end lodging, venues, experiences, and wildlife encounters, fine dining, and a 1,000 piece private art collection.

Walking the gorgeous grounds of the Nemacolin with my girlfriend, I couldn’t help dream of our own future nuptials. Nemacolin doesn’t have just one wedding venue, it has over 15 stunning locations perfect for the ceremony of your dreams. Everything on the grounds sings romance. One visit to Nemacolin and you’ll be falling in love.

The resort has venues for ceremonies of every size. The Atrium, a beautiful room lled with owers and greenery, is perfect for an intimate wedding with up to 10 guests. From Nemacolin’s Re ections modern art gallery the view is breathtaking, making it a gorgeous option for a medium to large wedding party. (Also consider the Plaza Deck or the golf club Mulligans). Larger weddings (over 200 guests), can choose between the outdoor Chateau Gardens and Horizon Point Terrace, or the elegant

and show-stopping indoor Marquee and Grand Ballrooms.

Nemacolin has mouth-watering fine dining options available as well, including steakhouse Rockwells, seafood restaurant Aqueous, and French restaurant Lautrec, which features original art by French artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. There are enough delicious options that you can dine at a different acclaimed restaurant for your bachelor party, rehearsal dinner, reception, and honeymoon.

There’s also a talented in-house pastry chef ready to create the wedding cake of your dreams, as well as beautiful and delicious pastries, truffles, cookies, cupcakes, and other desserts.

One of the best things about Nemacolin is that because of its size and scope, you can do an entire wedding weekend there, including bachelor/ ette/x parties. For the more adventurous and athletic, there are zip lines, horseback riding, a full golf course, a ropes course, fishing, trap shooting, and hiking in the bucolic surroundings. Nemacolin will also pamper you with wine tastings, heated pools, cabanas, and a beautiful full spa with everything

from massages, facials, saunas, and whirlpools, to a holistic healing center.

Your dream accommodations are also available at Nemacolin. The Chateau is the main hotel, featuring elegant rooms, suites, and a butler service. Falling Rock is a luxe hotel inspired by the architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright with plush amenities and sweeping views. The Lodge o ers a more rustic respite for those looking for a quintessential outdoorsy escape into the woods. Separate estates and residences on the property can o er even more privacy. Bridal or groom parties can stay together in the larger estates and private residences that o er all the opulence of Nemacolin in a more home-like environment.

Although it can feel like it’s in another world, Nemacolin is just 70 miles outside Pittsburgh and with 24 hours notice, resort transportation or shuttle services can be arranged from the airport.

From the five-star rooms and lodging, to the art, to the grounds and the architecture, to the food and drink, to the entertainment and experiences, Nemacolin is a dream come true for lovers who have been looking for a place to celebrate their union. Plan your visit now.

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Re ections Gallery; Chateau Gardens; Grand Ballroom; Art Gallery; The Chateau

10 Places to Nosh in Milan

By Diane Anderson-Minshall

RATANÀ RISTORANTE, a Michelin guide eatery, o ers modern Milanese cooking and a classic farm-to-table meal in a converted building that once housed a cinema. There’s also an outdoor eating area overlooking a nearby park. Chef Cesare Battisti is famous for his take on the traditional local dish: Risotto ala Vecchio Milano, a sa ron-heavy risotto with bone marrow, gremolata, and roast sauce. But there were plenty of other standouts on the menu like beef cheeks and tortellini with butter and amaretto. Two of my faves have history behind them: the Sbrisolona is a traditional shortbread-like almond cake that’s been made by farmers since the 16th century (here it was paired with strawberry grape sauce). Meanwhile the burnt wheat focaccia, has roots in Grano arso, which means “burnt grain” in Italian. In the 18th century, peasant workers would salvage the last usable bits of torched wheat remaining a er landowners fired their fields postharvest. That’s all the grain the peasants could a ord at the time, but modern chefs have started cooking with it again. Turns out, the flour caramelizes as it cooks, producing an unforgettably rich, almost co ee-like flavor.

L’ANTICO RISTORANTE BOEUCC, a historic Milanese restaurant situated behind the world-famous must-visit opera house, Theatre La Scala, o ers authentic, inventive local cuisine. Try the fresh tagliolini with sea urchin, the John Dory fillet with asparagus, grilled seabass with artichokes, and start with the green maccheroncini “Boeucc style.” (Remember, meals here are multi-course and pasta is o en first, not the main event.)

LA GALLINA, the restaurant at Villa Sparina resort in nearby Piedmont, o ers a 7-course menu chosen by chef Graziano Caccioppoli as a “surprise” indulgence for your palate, but almost any meal here is worth it. Located in the Gavi wine region, La Gallina has their own organic garden and sources additional ingredients locally. Want to fully enjoy the Italian culinary experience?

COURTESY TERRZAZZA MARTINI (DRINK)

Eating your way across the Italian city is a good way to experience local cuisine.

Cioccolatitaliani

Terrazza Martini

Why not try on the chef’s hat yourself? A three-hour cookery course teaches traditional Piedmontese dishes (our beef cheeks, pesto gnocchi, and tiramisu, were delicious). But for less ambitious diners, there’s handmade pappardelle pasta, Mille-feuille beef fillet, porcini mushrooms, dishes with local tru les (which you can help hunt), and even a homemade tagliolini pasta with 33 egg yolks and alpine butter.

CIOCCOLATITALIANI boasts the best chocolate (Cacao Fino de Aroma literally has been named the world’s best), co ee, and pastries. And since we had dishes with all three, we agree it’s hands down better than any other Italian ice cream or gelato shop we tried. It’s huge, too, with a ton of options including my faves: a ogato with dark chocolate and espresso and the a ogato pistachio and milk cream.

Have an apertivo or even an alcohol-free cocktail at TERRAZZA MARTINI , a roo op bar that boasts one of the best views of the city. Americans might remember the old Martini & Rossi ads. This is the same company built by those two men (one entrepreneur and one master herbalist) over 150 years ago. Today it’s a sophisticated, queer-friendly roo op bar.

LINEAUNO BISTRO is a lunch/dinner cafe and 24-hour bar in the slightly hipsterish Hotel Ibis Milano Centro. Located next to the Rainbow District, you can visit every queer club — Bar Lola, Mema, Lecco Milano, and Pop Milano — and then grab a late-night snack before bedding down. Instead of the typical bar food, the bar at Ibis served rocket salad (arugula) with tomatoes, oregano, and bu alo mozzarella.

BONUS

Also check out: CAFFETTERIA VILLA NECCHI (outside the famed house of Gucci) for cappuccinos; GERRY’S BAR (a world-famous spot that reminds one of The Plaza) for prosecco and finger foods; LUINI for the city’s best panzerotti (these deepfried Italian dough creations many mistake for calzones); and a delightfully lit-up fashion district spot, LA CUPOLA in the Hyatt Hotel Milan for brunch (Bresaola con aspargi, risotto with pumpkin flowers, fried eggs, and more).

DIANE ANDERSON-MINSHALL (LA GALLINA AND LUINI ); MAURIZIO MANTAGNA/ RATANA

Ratanà Ristorante

La Gallina

Luini

Last Call Chicago

A new book documents the Windy City’s LGBTQ+ bar culture — and its role in the broader queer community.

BY CHRISTINE LINNELL

Members and allies of Chicago’s LGBTQ+ community have an invaluable resource in Last Call Chicago: A History of 1001 LGBTQ-Friendly Taverns, Haunts & Hangouts, a book by journalists Rick Karlin and St. Sukie de la Croix. It documents personal stories from those who found refuge and community within these businesses, many of which closed decades ago.

“So much of our life is in the bars, and that’s where so much gay history took place,” Karlin recently told our sister publication, The Advocate. “Before there were organizations, any kind of planning took place in the bars. So it’s really important to document that history.”

Karlin was the entertainment editor at various Chicago publications for 25 years, and de la Croix wrote a column called Chicago Whispers (and a book of the same name) where he’d interview LGBTQ+ people about experiences as far back as the 1920s and ’30s.

“I’d interviewed about 500 people, just about their lives in Chicago,” de la Croix explained. “The bars cropped up a lot, because the bars back then were the community centers.”

A lot of the book’s charm comes from funny stories from bar owners and regular customers, written in the style of Karlin’s gossip columns going back to 1978. Karlin explained he would take information from bar advertisement or yers, “and I’d make some funny way to make it into kind of a gossipy thing. ‘If you’re really broke, head over to Berlin on Thursday night, where they have 75-cent drinks and a dollar cover. Helen Highwater was seen there opening her purse for the rst time.’ I’d make up these characters and I’d write about them.”

To cover pre-Stonewall establishments, de la Croix had to do some additional digging through newspaper archives. “I interviewed a man in his 90s, and he…told me that he snuck into a speakeasy during Prohibition and saw a drag show.” De la Croix said he knew, “when Prohibition ended, the next day all these clubs opened overnight,” so he searched papers from the time and found advertisements for a bar of the same name, the K9 Club.

Many of the Prohibition-era businesses were also documented through press coverage of police raids and arrests for public indecency. One was called the Green Mask Tearoom, located in the basement of a brothel. It was owned by chorus girl and burlesque performer Agnes “Bunny” Weiner and her lover Beryl Boughton, a silent movie actress.

Boughton “was in a cowboy movie,” de la Croix recalled, “and she had to be in a sandstorm and it took a lot of her face o . She sued and won a

lot of money, and they opened this lesbian cafe. I looked back in the newspapers and found that they’d been raided many times.”

One of the reasons Chicago has such a unique LGBTQ+ history is that the city’s bar culture is different from other big cities. “When I was growing up here, it was not unusual for every block to have a bar on it,” Karlin said. “It was a very blue-collar, beer-centric town.”

Until recently, a quirk of the city’s liquor laws meant that licenses were connected to an address, rather than the owner of the bar. “If you had a liquor license and you wanted to move

THOMAS KURMEIER/GETTY IMAGES (CHICAGO); COURTESY RICK KARLIN & ST SUKIE DE LA CROIX (BLUE DAHLIA )

SCOTT OLSON GETTY IMAGES (SIDETRACK); COURTESY RICK KARLIN & ST SUKIE DE LA CROIX (K 9

your business three doors away, you couldn’t do that — but you could let your liquor license be used by somebody else in your space. So what happened is when people got tired of running their business or they ran out of money or whatever, they just let somebody else open a bar in their same address.” That led to a number of locations that were home to a series of gay bars and clubs over the years.

“Illinois was the first state to decriminalize homosexuality, in 1961,” de la Croix said. “All the obvious homosexuals in the Midwest living in small towns, drag queens and things, they all thought, ‘This is great,’ so they all moved to Chicago.”

“The other thing I think that helped is a weird thing to say, but the Ma a owned all the bars, and the cops took money from them,” de la Croix explained. “That corruption actually gave gay people a space in Chicago.”

“Even when the cops would raid the bars, the bars would know ahead of time,” Karlin added. “They would phone rst to say they were raiding the bar, so they would get people out. My father was a Chicago cop, and we found out that he was one of the cops that was not only raiding the bars but on the take from the bars.”

As cultural and political changes came to the city, the local bar scene changed too, providing important meeting places for community and activism.

“In the ’60s when women’s liberation started in Chicago, women were sick of going to these Ma a bars,” de la Croix pointed out. “So women started their own co ee shops. And then when AIDS came along, you knew about AIDS because there were all these fundraisers in the bars.”

In recent years, the LGBTQ+ community’s relationship with bar culture has changed again, with younger generations using online spaces to connect and feeling less tied to speci c neighborhoods or businesses.

“Young people don’t go to gay bars as much anymore,” Karlin said. “They just go to any bar they want…which is what we fought for all those years — that gay people could go anywhere and be accepted anywhere. Unfortunately, now it’s biting the gay business community in the ass, because people don’t feel as much of a need to go to gay bars. Between that and…going out cruising is not what you do anymore. You do it on your apps.”

“In Chicago, the bar owners tend to be really invested in the community,” Karlin said. “Art [Johnston] who owns Sidetrack, the most popular bar in Chicago, would give tons of money back to various causes. They basically...I wouldn’t say blackmailed, but strongly encouraged liquor companies to become active and donate money. If they don’t, they don’t carry them in their bar.”

Now, as bars and restaurants across the country attempt to recover from the pandemic, Chicago’s queer bar scene has decades of resilience to fall back on.

“I think in Chicago there will always be a gay entertainment district,” Karlin said. Gay bar owners, “learned their lesson early on and started buying the properties when they moved into what is now known as the Halsted area and Andersonville. So, they don’t get priced out as much.” In the end he says gay bars will survive only “if they keep up with what the people are looking for.”

This is a shortened version of a piece that initially ran in our sister publication, The Advocate

Patrons at Chicago gay bar, Sidetrack, celebrate the passage of marriage equality in Illinois

A Steamy Turkish Bath

So much chest hair. So much bush. So much heat.

By Zachary Zane

The een-million-person city of Istanbul has culture, beauty, great food, nightlife, history, religion, and nature, but it doesn’t have LGBTQ+ rights, which became apparent when hundreds of police officers in riot gear shut down this year’s Pride.

That’s why I was surprised to learn that there was an uno cial, underground gay hammam (Turkish bath) in the city. I wasn’t exactly sure what a gay hammam entailed in Istanbul, but knew I had to go. Without telling him it was a queer bathhouse, I dragged my friend Luke along.

Hidden in plain sight, the hammam was right off a major street with a small, broken-down sign. We walked down a spiral staircase into a humid room that reeked of cigarettes. A lean forty-something-year-old man with ample chest hair and cum gutters approached us, wearing nothing more than a skimpy towel around his waist. Quickly, he began speaking Turkish, but upon seeing our lost puppy faces, he surmised, “Americans?”

“Yes. We called,” I replied.

“Yes, yes, yes,” he said, ushering us to a small, private room to get changed and throwing two towels at us before closing the door.

A er getting butt ass naked and wrapping the towels around ourselves we went back downstairs. Luckily, Ahmet, our bathhouse Sherpa, was there. He gestured at us to follow and

led us to a steamy dome room with marble slabs, where we were to sit. There were a dozen sinks, each with a dog water bowl in it. Luke and I weren’t sure what they were for.

“Fi een minutes. Don’t move,” Ahmet said.

Two hirsute men sat in the sauna, draping their towels carelessly to their sides, revealing their large cocks and full bushes. (Turkish men, I quickly realized, do not manscape.) One of the men had big brown eyes, thick eyebrows, and Samsonite hairstyle. He stared at me as he casually stretched his accid cock. I made eye contact for longer than I should have. Luke noticed.

Despite his unfortunate straightness, Luke was used to my shenanigans, “Is this a gay hammam?” he demanded.

“What? No — I don’t think so?” I played dumb. “I’m just so confused.”

“How are you confused? The answer is ‘Yes’ or ‘No!’”

Before I could reply, we heard a crash. Samson had poured one of the dog bowls of water over himself and then dropped it.

“That’s what it’s for,” Luke surmised.

Some other men passed by the sauna, peered inside, and then le , leading me to believe that there might be another room with more action.

“I’m going to take a look around,” I told Luke.

The bathhouse was a labyrinth. One smaller version of our dome room had a curtained-o section. There were squatty

potties and a shower outside. Nestled next to the shower, nearly out of sight, was a room with a closed door.

I opened it. A gust of steam hit me in the face. When my eyes adapted to the darkness, I saw one hairy man blowing another hairy man while two gentlemen watched and vigorously jerked off. I turned around, shutting the door behind me.

Well, that answers that question.

I returned to the main sauna just before Ahmet arrived, motioning for me to follow him and Luke to follow another man. Ahmet led me to a curtained room, where he directed me to lie face-up on a marble slab.

My wet towel clung loosely to my waist. He rearranged the towel, tucking it so it was only covering my genitals. Just that touch to my upper thigh, so close to my cock, made me pitch a very visible tent.

He ignored it and began pouring warm water over my body with doggy bowls, then used a warm, soapy cloth to lather me up.

My erection was rock hard at this point — so hard that it pushed the towel o

He placed the towel back over my genitals. That didn’t stop my dick from throbbing, and with each pulse, knocking the towel o again. Eventually, Ahmet just removed the towel.

A er the soapy massage, he gestured for me to get up and pointed me upstairs, where a very attractive man in his late twenties, approached me. His body was that of a muscled Instagram gay. He wore a gold chain around his neck, which gently rested on his lush chest hair. Long feminine eyelashes contrasted his masculine physique. I was in love.

He took me into a tiny room with a massage table and a door, which he kept

ajar. Another indication this was no happy ending establishment — even though it really seemed like it was?

Once he began massaging me, my suspicions grew. He wasn’t good, clearly untrained. This is usually the biggest tell it is a happy ending parlor. But instead, he avoided my erect penis. It was torture. I lay there, dick hard and heavy, until, at long last, the massage ended.

I saw through another open door that Luke was still being massaged. With time to spare, I ventured back to the dark room to nd relief.

This is an edited excerpt from Boyslut, a queer digital zine that publishes non ction erotica from across the globe founded by Zachary Zane.

Read more at zacharyzane.substack.com

DEPARTURES

Naoussa, Greece

The picturesque fishing village of Naoussa is located on the island of Paros, one of the Greek Cyclades islands in the Aegean Sea. Increasingly popular with tourists, its luxury accommodations compliment traditional whitewashed houses, tiny churches, and a labyrinth of narrow, cobblestone streets. —JAM

Welcome

everyone under the sun

Discover a beach playground unlike any other in Florida’s LGBT+ capital, from cosmopolitan dining and nightlife and the revelry of Wilton Manors to miles of golden beaches and Everglades eco-tours. As one of the world’s most progressive and inclusive destinations, Greater Fort Lauderdale’s welcoming vibe is legendary. And we can’t wait to welcome you.