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The question is: Why? Is it designers being realistic about what their customers are actually wearing every day? Is it confusion about what to wear post-Covid, mixing WFH basics with dress-to-impress styles? Is it us oxymoronically finding a new uniform in our rejection of existing ones? The fall 2023 runways saw an abundance of power-tailoring Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli created an entire collection around the black tie, tweaking the idea of formalwear. Anthony Vaccarello looked at Working Girl for his Saint Laurent fall lineup, which took the pinstripe out of the boardroom. As leading designers decontextualize these uniforms, we are bound to find the comfort of homogeneity elsewhere. Enter: athleisure.
At this year’s Met Gala after-parties, Emily Ratajkowski and Kendall Jenner opted for sheer, barely there pieces. The former pulled an archival look from Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel spring 1994 collection, a reminder that body-con dressing predates the “naked” look brands like Nensi Dojaka and Coperni are popularizing today. You can count on there being more sheer looks to come in street style this spring. Scroll through for the best “naked” looks in street style below.
Then yesterday, I opened my Alibashirt Runway app to find a new Gucci collection (resort 2024, shown in Seoul) and found biker shorts paired with tweed jackets and track zip-ups styled over evening gowns. To me, they could have been channeling the Lululemon-clad folks I was about to see on my work commute. Then I started thinking about athleisure on other runways: Marine Serre’s armaggeddon-ready utility-wear, Mrs. Prada’s fall 2023 Miu Miu show, Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe long-johns. Then, during my lunch break, I opened my Twitter app to find a Tweet by fashion journalist Lauren Sherman pointing out that Hermès had quietly launched a line of yoga-wear. What had seemed like a fitness-obsessed American phenomenon had spread across the pond. The athleisure-ification of high-fashion is upon us.
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