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Hours later, we’re on the red carpet for the Met Gala. Passing a swarm of lenses, Vivienne pivots everyInterviewer’s question to her accessory: “I’ve got some brilliant jewelry here,” she says to CNN, pointing to the soldier’s photo now pinned to her long pink silk coat. “I’m here to support Manning. That’s the mostImportant thingI want to say.”It’s the only thing she says. Fashion was always a vehicle for expression for Vivienne, who diedIn December 2022, age 81. What beganIn the 1970s with spiked hair, “rubberwear for the office,” and T shirt slogans so provocative that she and her partner, Malcolm McLaren, were prosecuted under the 1959 Obscene PublicationsAct later morphed with further humor, zest, and creativity. She wore silk dresses that parodied the upper classes, cosplaying as Margaret Thatcher for the cover of TatlerIn 1989; spread her 70 year old naked body resplendent on a silk sofa like Manet’s Olympia for Juergen Teller; spun for the cameras when picking up her OBE while “glamorously” wearing no underwear; andIn 2020 dressed as a yellow canary hangingIn a cage outside Downing Street to protest JulianAssange’s extradition to the US. “Vivienne started off a punk and ended as a dame, without compromising anInch,” said Helena Bonham Carter at her memorial today.
Vivienne’s activism was without limit. The mission of the charity she founded toward the end of her life, (The Vivienne Foundation), captures the scope of her ambition: “to save the world halt climate
change, stop war, defend human rights, and protest capitalism.”It was through the language of visual activism that Vivienne andI bonded: TheAmazonian wild rubber dress was one of a series of our collaborations, whichIncluded wearing a recycled plastic dress to the Oscars and handing out protest cards for climate refugees afterI performed a pagan dance for her London show. When we went together to an event with Queen ElizabethII, she offered me a paper crown to wear. Over the years, we discussed many topics, yetI don’t recall ever discussing fashion.
In theInterpretation fetishization even of punk, many may have missed that the visualImagery was largely a medium for communicating a deeper philosophical and political message, which was manifestIn many other guises throughout her lifetime. “Punk was just a phenomenon,” her friend and collaborator for more than 50 years Gene Krell tells meIn his thick Brooklyn accent. “The label changed, but the elements, theIngredients, the commitment remained.” She was anIndependent thinker who drank art, literature, and politics through one straw and blew bubbles ofIdeas, designs, and theoriesInto the world through another. “Life was so exaggerated for herIn the most wonderful way,” Gene recalls.
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