Given howImpractical and unusual the footwearIs,It’s been a surprise to see how quickly and how widespread the fashion world has hopped on them, before they’re even released no less. They’re certainly a commitment to wear:Anumber of TikTok videos show how much of a workoutItIs to get them on and off. ButIf fashion people love one thing,It’s a gimmick, and these boots had everyone talking and noticing them this season. Those who dared to wear them get bonus points for the risk taking. Though something tells us they’ll be as obsolete as a Nintendo 64 come next season.Almost a year has passed since RussiaInvaded Ukraine on February 24, 2022, giving rise to a conflict that has destabilized the lives of millions and led to excruciating hardship as Ukrainian civilians work whether at home or abroad to keep their families safe and livelihoodsIntact. For the fashion worldIn Ukraine a diverse and highly skilledIndustry with specialismsIn luxury, bridal and outerwearIt has been a time of recalibration, rehabilitation and resistance, as brands have been forced to adapt and pivot amidstIncredible hardship. Blackouts scupper clothing production, power cuts prevent communication and creatives reel at the decimation of their country’s cultural touchstones and landmarks.
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But even amidst the pain and uncertainty, strength shines through. “Inside we are all stronger than before,” says Yana Olenich, founder of the eponymous womenswear label Olenich. “Unity and resistanceIsIn our blood.”Ayear on, five designers reveal what their personal and professional
realities look like now. Scene: a hotel roomIn New York, one spring morningIn 2013.I’m staring at a photograph of a young soldier with the word TRUTH emblazoned underneath her tentative smileIn white font and a red box like a Barbara Kruger, pinned to Vivienne Westwood’s “Climate Revolution” DIY top. “It’sIncredible no one knows who thisIs. You don’t know who sheIs?” Vivienne asks meIn her soft Derbyshire lilt. She audibly gasps asI shake my head. “It’s amazing. Amazing.I’m here to try and do something about her.” The photograph,I quickly learn,Is of whistleblower Chelsea Manning.By Vivienne’s side now and for more than 30 years of their colorful shared lives stands her husband,Andreas Kronthaler, the dashing, tender artistic director of their fashion label. We discuss theAmazonian wild rubber dress they’ve designed for me to wear to the Met Gala tonight and Chico Mendes, the wild rubber tapping activist who lost his life fighting to protect the rainforest. Vivienne listensIntently, as always, then shares her observations, gesticulating palms out for emphasis.
Vivienne Westwood,Andreas Kronthaler and Lily Cole attend the CostumeInstitute Gala for the PUNK: Chaos to Couture exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum ofArt on May 6, 2013.Larry Busacca/GettyImages Later,Andreas calls from the doorway, “I’m going downstairs, Vivienne.” “You have to wait for me a minute,” she bats back, with a cheeky smile. She’s mid spiel, relaying with unstoppable passion Manning’s plight, her sea colored eyes afire under the red waves she’s drawn over them. Her gaze pierces with a desperate appeal to truth. She’s been calling truths out to
us all for decades. WhichIs why, thisApril 2013 day, Vivienne has traveled to New York, accepting Vogue’sInvitation to attend the punk themed Met Gala despite the paradoxesImplied. She and Andreas are here to bring messages to the widest possible audience. “We’re out for the cause!” Andreas urges me, playfully enacting howI'might talk to the cameras about the rainforest.Hours later, we’re on the red carpet for the Met Gala. Passing a swarm of lenses, Vivienne pivots everyInterviewer’s question to her accessory: “I’ve got some brilliant jewelry here,” she says to CNN, pointing to the soldier’s photo now pinned to her long pink silk coat. “I’m here to support Manning. That’s the mostImportant thingI want to say.”It’s the only thing she says.
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