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Vivienne’s activism was without limit. The mission of the charity she founded toward the end of her life, (The Vivienne Foundation), captures the scope of her ambition: “to save the world halt climate change, stop war, defend human rights, and protest capitalism.”It was through the language of visual activism that Vivienne andI bonded: TheAmazonian wild rubber dress was one of a series of our collaborations, whichIncluded wearing a recycled plastic dress to the Oscars and handing out protest cards for climate refugees afterI performed a pagan dance for her London show. When we went together to an event with Queen ElizabethII, she offered me a paper crown to wear. Over the years, we discussed many topics, yetI don’t recall ever discussing fashion.

Almost a year has passed since RussiaInvaded Ukraine on February 24, 2022, giving rise to a conflict that has destabilized the lives of millions and led to excruciating hardship as Ukrainian civilians work whether at home or abroad to keep their families safe and livelihoodsIntact. For the fashion worldIn Ukraine a diverse and highly skilledIndustry with specialismsIn luxury, bridal and outerwearIt has been a time of recalibration, rehabilitation and resistance, as brands have been forced to adapt and pivot amidstIncredible hardship. Blackouts scupper clothing production, power cuts prevent communication and creatives reel at the decimation of their country’s cultural touchstones and landmarks.

But even amidst the pain and uncertainty, strength shines through. “Inside we are all stronger than before,” says Yana Olenich, founder of the eponymous womenswear label Olenich. “Unity and resistanceIsIn our blood.”Ayear on, five designers reveal what their personal and professional realities look like now. Masqueraders wearing carnival costumes with wings and crowns jumped up behind sound trucks large mobile stages outfitted with speakers, DJ equipment, and steel pans that crawled through Port of Spain on Tuesday morning.At Victoria Square, members of the Lost Tribe carnival band fastened on backpacks made of drapery, gigantic clusters of butterflies, and capes. Sweet soca and calypso boomed throughout the capital city. “If you hear any noiseIn the background, they’re music trucks on theAvenue. Welcome to carnival,” says ValmikI'maharaj, the creative director and bandleader of the Lost Tribe. Maharaj says he’s everything from “head cook” to “bottle washer” he’s a designer, editor, strategist, and visionary.
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