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Almost a year has passed since Russia invaded Ukraine on February 24, 2022, giving rise to a conflict that has destabilized the lives of millions and led to excruciating hardship as Ukrainian civilians work whether at home or abroad to keep their families safe and livelihoods intact. For the fashion world in Ukraine a diverse and highly skilled industry with specialisms in luxury, bridal and outerwear it has been a time of recalibration, rehabilitation and resistance, as brands have been forced to adapt and pivot amidst incredible hardship. Blackouts scupper clothing production, power cuts prevent communication and creatives reel at the decimation of their country’s cultural touchstones and landmarks.
But even amidst the pain and uncertainty, strength shines through. “Inside we are all stronger than before,” says Yana Olenich, founder of the eponymous womenswear label Olenich. “Unity and resistance is in our blood.” A year on, five designers reveal what their personal and professional realities look like now. Masqueraders wearing carnival costumes with wings and crowns jumped up behind sound trucks large mobile stages outfitted with speakers, DJ equipment, and steel pans that crawled through Port of Spain on Tuesday morning. At Victoria
Square, members of the Lost Tribe carnival band fastened on backpacks made of drapery, gigantic clusters of butterflies, and capes. Sweet soca and calypso boomed throughout the capital city. “If you hear any noise in the background, they’re music trucks on the Avenue. Welcome to carnival,” says Valmiki Maharaj, the creative director and bandleader of the Lost Tribe. Maharaj says he’s everything from “head cook” to “bottle washer” he’s a designer, editor, strategist, and visionary.
In the interpretation fetishization even of punk, many may have missed that the visual imagery was largely a medium for communicating a deeper philosophical and political message, which was manifest in many other guises throughout her lifetime. “Punk was just a phenomenon,” her friend and collaborator for more than 50 years Gene Krell tells me in his thick Brooklyn accent. “The label changed, but the elements, the ingredients, the commitment remained.”
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