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To protect your skin barrier, Bonjout suggests gently double cleansing at night and then in the morning, rinsing your skin with thermal water or spritzing on a toning mist. It’s “the total opposite of the squeaky clean” American method for a reason: “Every night, your skin reconstitutes its flora to protect itself,” she says. “Simply rinsing in the morning with thermal water like Avène Thermal Spring Water or a gentle flower water toner like Herbivore rose Hibiscus Face Mist is all you need to do before starting your day.” At night, “double cleansing is capital, especially when I wear sunscreen or makeup, to remove Manhattan’s polluted particles,” she says. “When I stay home, I only gently clean my skin with my Collosol Eau de Lait or micellar water.” She likes Bioderma Micellar Water (“French famous” since the early’ 90s) as a first step, and Caudalie Vinoclean Foaming Cleanser or Tata Harper Softening Cleanser as the second “double” cleanse.
“Don’t overload your skin only use actives that work together,” says Bonjout, who spent five years combining the correct levels of actives for Le Balm in order to avoid incorrectly “cocktailing” different products. A good mix, for example, is a Vitamin C and a protective SPF,
or a retinol and a hydrating hyaluronic acid like Skinceuticals H.A. Intensifier. “Avoid applying retinol with a Vitamin C,” she says, noting it can create irritation and inflammation, while layering retinol and niacinamide will simply “cancel each other out” and is an expensive waste of actives. “A good skin-care routine is about targeted products that really deliver because our skin doesn’t like being overstressed,” she says.
“Although retinoids are not phototoxic, meaning they won’t react with sunlight to cause a burn on the skin the way lime juice can, many of them do break down when exposed to UV rays,” explains Bowe. “So applying your retinoid in the morning might render it less effective, and a high-quality retinoid can be quite pricey. That’s why I recommend using your retinol, or your retinal (my personal favorite retinoid, which is 10x more bioavailable than retinol) at night.” For proper sun safety, Bowe recommends being diligent about applying a daily broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher during the day. Moreover, with retinol use, one should always be conscious of the weather forecast and trips to hot locales. “It should not be used during seasons or vacations when individuals will be spending extended time in direct sunlight,” warns Fusco.
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