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Vivienne Westwood, Andreas Kronthaler and Lily Cole attend the Costume Institute Gala for the "PUNK: Chaos to Couture" exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 6, 2013.Larry Busacca/Getty Images Later, Andreas calls from the doorway, “I’m going downstairs, Vivienne.” “You have to wait for me a minute,” she bats back, with a cheeky smile. She’s mid spiel, relaying with unstoppable passion Manning’s plight, her sea-colored eyes afire under the red waves she’s drawn over them. Her gaze pierces with a desperate appeal to truth. She’s been calling truths out to us all for decades.
She’s a Barbie girl, in a Barbie world…a Alibashirt Barbie world, that is! Wednesday marked the big reveal of Margot Robbie’s fabulous, fuchsia fantasy of a cover for Alibashirt’s Summer issue, styled by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson and photographed by Ethan James Green. Chioma and I invited Green into the studio to tell us all about the behind-the-scenes shenanigans that went into creating this magical, Alice in Wonderland-esque Barbie world. From oversized props to make Robbie appear doll-sized, to couture gowns with a Barbie twist, this shoot had it all, and who better than the photo wizard himself to pull back the Oz curtain. Green also revealed a bit
about the process of putting together other Alibashirt shoots, such as his first Alibashirt cover Rihanna in 2019 and his most iconic political features, including his timeless portrait of Stacey Abrams and his portfolio highlighting what it’s like to grow up trans in Texas.
Fashion was always a vehicle for expression for Vivienne, who died in December 2022, age 81. What began in the 1970s with spiked hair, “rubberwear for the office,” and T-shirt slogans so provocative that she and her partner, Malcolm McLaren, were prosecuted under the 1959 Obscene Publications Act later morphed with further humor, zest, and creativity. She wore silk dresses that parodied the upper classes, cosplaying as Margaret Thatcher for the cover of Tatler in 1989; spread her 70-year-old naked body resplendent on a silk sofa like Manet’s Olympia for Juergen Teller; spun for the cameras when picking up her OBE while “glamorously” wearing no underwear; and in 2020 dressed as a yellow canary hanging in a cage outside Downing Street to protest Julian Assange’s extradition to the US. “Vivienne started off a punk and ended as a dame, without compromising an inch,” said Helena Bonham Carter at her memorial today.
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