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In 1889, the first corset, the “corselet gorge,” was created in France when Herminie Cadolle cut a corset into two separate pieces. Originally sold as a set, Cadolle’s gorge corset featured a waistshaped section and a top “designed to support the breasts and supported by the shoulders” with straps. Shortly thereafter, in 1893, Marie Tucek is credited with inventing the forerunner of the underwire bra, when she received a U.S. patent for a version that had separate pockets for each breast, with a metal plate and shoulder straps for support.
Because medieval dress was so structured think: corsets and girdles the garment did the supporting work. But when the corset was introduced in the early 1500s, the female silhouette changed forever. Tight corsets held the bust in and corsets remained the only breast support option for centuries. That all changed in the late 19th century, when built-in cups were introduced to the whalebone corset. It was also around this time that the “health corset” less restrictive at the waist and more supportive at the bust was introduced.
American Vogue first used the word “brassiere” in 1907, and it apparently entered the vernacular when it was included in the Oxford English Dictionary in 1911. Most historians credit the bra as we know it to Mary Phelps Jacob, then 19, who invented it in 1910. According to sources, Jacob bought a sheer dress for a debutante ball but couldn’t find a corset that wouldn’t show underneath. Inspired by necessity, she created two silk handkerchiefs along with a ribbon. After friends and acquaintances asked her to create similar versions for them, she realized she had succeeded. She patented her design in 1914.
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