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Another strategy for getting through tough times is to lean on pieces or themes that you know your audience wants: the greatest hits approach. To a greater or lesser extent, we’ve seen this at Saint Laurent (where the founder is the code), Prada (with cool classics sprinkled in between new pieces), Miu Miu, Balmain, Fendi, and even Valentino, which, despite its designer references, leans into its founder’s archive more as a way to establish lineage than anything else. I really like Adrian Appiolaza’s take on Moschino.
Yet, more often than not, this season you can detect on the runways the general distress of an industry that, at the moment, consumers are not consuming. This has led many designers to turn to humanity's other favorite pastime: Sex and sensuality seem to be one of the biggest themes of
the month. Personally, I think Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, Jun Takahashi at Undercover, and Nadège Vanhee at Hermès have explored this territory most interestingly. It's also fascinating that both Balenciaga and Dolce & Gabbana have approached the subject in adjacent and overlapping ways. The young independent model who seems to benefit most from this trend is Nensi Dojaka: I'm a little excited to see how Victoria's Secret reinvents itself around this theme again, but I think the most effective thing they can do is hire her.
Putting oneself in “aesthetic danger” is a beautiful, romantic, and defiant idea. It’s also a strategy that’s primarily for those who have nothing to lose; that is, designers who are competing to “get it on” (the independents Mark talks about), or those lucky few who are in houses protected by wealth and job security to the point where they can flirt with danger without consequence. For me, two emerging designers who are combining flirting with danger with the development of distinct brand codes that you can see becoming the foundation of business stability are Duran Lantink and Chopova Lowena though there are likely others I haven’t seen. Lantink’s memefriendly form of sustainable surrealism makes him a particularly attractive candidate for certain houses where the art director position is being contested.
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