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It didn’t take long for the fashion world to take notice of her unique work. Since debuting her first collection at the Hotel Vancouver, Grant has quickly become a household name holding runway shows everywhere from Paris to Tokyo, and exhibiting her work at museums like the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the American Museum of Natural History. In 2015, she also received the Order of Canada, a prestigious honor that recognizes her contributions to the fashion world and her work mentoring youth. (More recently, Grant has visited Indigenous communities to work with young people and teach them how to create ceremonial headdresses out of fur felt.)
Launching next month, Dorothy Grant: An Endless Thread celebrates the work of the Haida designer, a fashion pioneer who began her career in the 1980s. Born to the Raven clan in Hydaburg, Alaska, Grant first learned to sew and weave from her grandmother when she was 13 and began creating costumes for Haida dance groups in her community. In 1989, she launched her first clothing collection, called Feastwear. The collection featured modern lines handembroidered with Northwest Coast draping a Native art form that uses soft, curvaceous lines to
outline abstract symbols like bears and eagles. Grant was one of the first to do so through contemporary styles.
This tracking shot of what I thought was a luxury New York apartment reminded me of one of my all-time favorite movie scenes: the scene where they robbed Audrina's house in The Bling Ring. In the early 1960s, the Northwest Coast Renaissance saw indigenous artists from the Haida to the Kwakwaka'wakw revive their traditional crafts across areas like Alaska, Washington, and British Columbia. Pioneering artists like Bill Reid and Art Thompson began resurrecting the distinctive masks, blankets, spruce root hats, and totem poles their ancestors had been making for centuries, sparking an artistic movement that lasted well into the 1990s. At the same time, a similar movement was taking place in the world of high fashion, and a new book highlights the work of one particular indigenous designer who paved the way forward.
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