This cookbook, like Rocha’s food, is deceptively simple yet utterly wonderful. Aside from a chapter on Guinness bread the bookend to every meal at Café Cecilia the remaining chapters are themed around dishes like “Fish” and “Pasta,” “Meat” and “Salad.” There are no gimmicks here, no manifestos just superb dishes that bear the hallmarks of Max’s years in the kitchens at Spring, St John, and The River Cafe. Every theoretically complex recipe appears in its purest form a Pork and Apricot Terrine with just 10 ingredients, a Whole Poached Salmon layered with pickled cucumber “flakes,” somehow can’t go wrong while classic dishes are reimagined (think overnight roasted chicken with an Aioli Salad). Max's favourite chapter, however, is "Desserts", as it draws from both his team ("I really respect chefs who can make pastry") and his favourite British restaurants: there's an almond tart inspired by Ruth Rogers' version, a soufflé reminiscent of The Sportsman in Whitstable, and a nearly effortless Champagne and Raspberry Jellies that will be on every festive table.
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“Sometimes you eat at a place that encapsulates simplicity and makes you understand the meaning of the word,” Diana Henry writes of the appeal of Rocha’s dishes in her introduction to the Café Cecilia Cookbook. “I found it the first day I had lunch at Café Cecilia. There was a
tangle of anchovies sandwiched between sage leaves and fried in the thinnest of batter… Then a piece of cod with aioli and bell peppers roasted in a pool of olive oil… It was one of the most delicious plates of food I’ve ever had.” Max, as usual, was more modest about his MO: “I just love to cook, at the end of the day and I want to share good food with as many people as possible with the restaurant. And, now, with the book.”
Prepare the batter before you want to coat the ingredients. In a clean, dry bowl, beat the egg whites with a hand mixer until they form soft peaks. Place the flour and oil in a large bowl, then gradually beat in the sparkling water with a hand mixer until the mixture reaches the consistency of double cream, then fold in the egg whites just before coating the ingredients. The batter will keep in the fridge for 5 hours, but not the egg whites. So if you don’t want to use it right away, skip the egg whites and just add them just before using.
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