Production Plan

production plan

Elin Salenius Hedda Smith Mateusz Cierniak Michelle Tissen Patrick Klaghofer

SUMMARY OF SOURCING PLAN

We researched how WEEKDAY could implement a new brand extension most profitably in the sourcing plan.

Through research into the existing collection and clientele, we saw an unmet demand for a formal approach to streetwear. Furthermore, closely observing the brand’s social media engagement, we discovered that many bloggers and private users on Instagram tagged WEEKDAY products in combination with formal pieces, such as blazers, that the current product assortment did not include. In other words, we noticed non-exploited sales potential in the brand’s current product portfolio. Consequently, the goal of the brand extension was to get the customers to buy these pieces from the proposed WEEKDAY collection. Furthermore, to fulfil the brand mission of WEEKDAY, which is advancing the sustainability of garments through recyclable materials, we researched other options apart from the materials already implemented in the current collection.

We explored Tencel®, a widely manufactured lyocell fabric, as an alternative to conventional cotton.

However, significant drawbacks with the use of Tencel within the TRLD collection were observed through the high price-point (€12/m wholesale). The higher price was due to the production process being more expensive than cotton and the potential slow implementation of Tencel since it is not included in WEEKDAY’s current infrastructure. Because of this, we suggested moving to 60% organic cotton and 40% recycled cotton to satisfy both durability and minimize the amount of raw cotton needed for production.

Bamboo is a rapidly renewable and biodegradable resource and was also examined as an alternative. One of the key benefits of bamboo fibres was the anti-bacterial and fungal resistance; however, looking at the negatives, the price once again was influential to our decision. Currently, Weekday offers no garments made with bamboo fibres meaning a shift into this direction would need new suppliers with potential new production factories, increasing costs associated with the setup alone. In addition, we observed that the Weekday customers were unlikely to afford a staple in their wardrobe at the heightened price needed to cover increased costs associated with bamboo production.

We advised sticking to the current cotton and polyester materials, increasing sustainability and circularity. It was observed that removing poly-cotton blends and replacing them with 100% recycled polyester and 100% organic cotton would allow the garments to be recycled again as part of the current recycling system, which can be further extended to post-consumer recycling. Using only recycled polyester fibres was essential in reducing non-renewable raw materials entering the fashion loop. Examining new technological advances like Polartec’s 2018 Power Air technology would reduce the impact of nano-plastics, up to 5 times, from the collection’s garments. Furthermore, moving to 60% organic cotton and 40% recycled cotton should be implemented as the choice for the denim and the shirts.

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SUMMARY OF SOURCING PLAN

The PurFi technology, which converts post-production waste into new fabrics, was also explored. This process pushes innovation as cotton and cotton blends could be recycled with 99 % less water, 40% fewer greenhouse gasses, and 90% less energy. Furthermore, it has the same price as organic cotton, and if produced in India, it would be just over the price of raw cotton. However, the innovation has downsides; any elastane fabric cannot be used without the new de-elastane technologies only available from 2022/2023 onwards.

Another technology researched was Retex, which uses post-consumer textile waste to create panels. The Retex panels could be used as interior walls, dressing rooms, and countertops, contributing to a unique experience and providing a talking point for future innovations and reminding customers about the industry’s impact.

Partnering with IKEA for their up-cycled denim collection was also suggested to create brand exposure for new customers and provide a new source of income from denim waste, as the KLIPPAN sofa cover currently consists of 40% recycled denim. In addition, the covers could be sold in both IKEA and Weekday stores as a critical example of how customers can see their post-consumer waste recycled into new products.

The sub-question concerning whether a brand can follow and create trends ethically while continuing to exist in the fast-fashion industry is followed as a reminder that WEEKDAY will always stay a fast-fashion company no matter the efforts pushed within sustainability. Aspiring to sustainably optimize trend cycles through rental schemes, take-back programs and the creation of garments with high enough quality to last decades coming in and out of trend could well appeal to the WEEKDAY customer and business strategy.

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MANAGEMENT SUMMARY

Our consultancy work will answer the general question: how can Weekday implement the developed brand extension most profitably, and through which actions can it be implemented most sustainably?

Research in the materials began with discussing the parameters set for the TRLD extension, such as no mixes of different fibres and the most cost-effective sustainable alternatives. Then, a visit to a fabric wholesaler in Almere was conducted to overview what was available. Next, research into the raw materials, including sustainable alternatives, was conducted of each material going into our collection, along with alternatives that did not make it. Finally, due to the quality standard and longer wear associated with the collection, a criterion was that the quality must be upheld to exceed the European TCS requirements. Details and testing can be found in the appendix of this report.

Shifting towards long-term goals, working with Purify Technology was advised. Through Purify, postproduction waste could create 100% recycled materials, and with this, another stream of waste would be rerouted, helping move towards a fully closed loop. For this reason, it was recommended not only for Weekday but also for the entirety of the H&M group. Furthermore, the H&M group has introduced an excellent solution for deadstock in their portfolio called Afound. Afound is a marketplace for apparel and accessories that TLRD will also incorporate.

We suggest rebranding Weekday’s existing takeback scheme as «Wee-Cycle». We also advise collaborating with BOER GROUP to allow European-based textiles sorting, recycling, and downcycling. Due to the diverse recycling options, Weekday could accept any textiles donated. The collaboration could promote better circularity and, eventually, a closed-loop system and ensure that Weekday would receive enough usable garments to profit from the takeback.

We advise splitting the eco-costs per product between the company and the consumer. Weekday should pay half of it to take a stand for their actions and show responsibility, and the consumer should pay the other half to raise awareness about rising costs. Weekday states that an internal carbon pricing model exists and is considered throughout the supply chain and therefore is supporting more conscious choices for future collections regarding material choices and production places.

Weekday is also advised to invest funds in a project in Romania to compensate for the CO2 emissions resulting from the supply chain. Moreover, sourcing in Romania is well-positioned when considering all other European suppliers and could shorten transportation ways instead of sourcing it from Asian countries.

Another suggestion is for Weekday to pay a premium for each piece of the TLRD collection in the recommended initiative Fair-Trade Certified™. The Fair-Trade program promotes social and environmental compliance and the safety and health of the workers. Next to that, a Fair Labor Association (FLA) accreditation is suggested as an important long-term goal, alongside conducting assessments on the fulfilment of the Principles of Fair Labor & Responsible Sourcing (for brands) and the Principles of Fair Labor & Responsible Production (for suppliers).

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table of contents

Summary of Sourcing Plan..................page 2

End of Life...............................page 18

Management Summary........................page 4

Product Takeback..........................page 19

Production Plan...........................page 6

Where we integrate our Eco Costs into the company’s financial structure............. page 27

Introduction..............................page 6 Lifecycles................................page 7 Sourcing..................................page 10 Quality Testing...........................page 11 Trimmings.................................page 15 Production and Production Waste...........page 16 Deadstock.................................page 17

What we do to compensate for our CO2 emissi ons...................................... page 29 Conclusions...............................page 31 References................................page 32 Appendix..................................page Weekday Idemat............................page Weekday Quality Portfolio.................page Digital Skills Document...................page

34 34 54 99

INTRODUCTION

This report aims to provide a strategic recommendation for most profitably and reasonably structuring the production plan for WEEKDAY’s brand extension.

It seeks to find innovative solutions and attractive incentives for the customers to advance circularity, both within the brand extension and WEEKDAY. In addition, the report addresses financial, social, and environmental costs attached to the choice of materials and location of production.

It strives to find a way to include eco-costs and split them responsibly between the company and the customers.

Finally, it also covers the issues associated with post-production and analyses if sustainably marketed concepts such as takeback schemes potentially encourage throw-away culture and how to counteract this. The report’s analysis was supported through field research, surveys, and quality testing of varied materials.

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LIFECYCLES

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LIFECYCLES

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CONCLUSIONS

Both of the lifecycles represent an application that will be applied in Weekday’s extension. Depending on the material used in the garment, the applied solutions may differ, but the main idea behind them stays the same.

Production waste, which is one of the main issues within the production process, will be reused and reintroduced within Weekday’s souring thanks for using PurFi technology and Nova Fides services. The main idea still revolves around what’s happening with post-consumer products and involves redesigning current’s Weekday recycling system into a Wee-cycle that will ensure transparency for the customers and make them more aware of the overconsumption. Boer Group will be handling Weekday’s sorting which will allow for European-based sorted which will have another positive impact on the environment (when it comes to waste accumulated because of transportation). For both lifecycles, recycled boxes for shipping will be introduced. The lifecycles represent the solutions that can solve some of the problems within Weekday’s takeback system and improve transparency thanks to the assistance of already existing, trusted solutions and European-based services.

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SOURCING

Research in the materials began with a discussion of the parameters we would set for the TRLD extension such as no mixes of different fibres and the most cost-effective sustainable alternatives. From this we visited a fabric wholesaler in Almere to get an overview of what was on offer. Splitting raw materials up was done for research into sustainability of each material going into our collection along with alternatives that did not make it into the collection.

Within research for denims and the sustainability in the usage of cotton, Tencel denims with closed loop chemical manufacture through the Knipidee wholesaler could be taken into consideration. With the introduction on a completely new fibre, quality would need to be to a high enough standard to match the current cotton denim. Due to this risk, it is recommended to develop current recycled cottons. Implementation of all cottons being 60% organic fibres and 40% recycled fibres from post-consumer origin. Included also in the 60:40 divide is the cotton poplins for the shirts also produced with the denims. Before concluding on the raw materials for the poplin, analysed also was both bamboo and polyester poplins as alternatives, but issues with cost accounting arose along with concerns for environmental issues associated with synthetic fibres.

Research into different fibres of wool was also conducted for the TRLD sourcing plan, opting for Dutch Marino to be used for top garments. Supplying a way for Dutch WEEKDAY customers to have a better connection to the garments they are buying, can be shown by the theory of planned behaviour (Ajzen 1991) and the theory of reasoned action (Fishbein 1980) have been used to examine consumer behaviour related to buying of local food systems, but this could easily also be applied to garments in an even greater way due to their ability to hold higher consumer regard.

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QUALITY TESTING

Implementing any possible fabric in the new TRLD extension for the brand Weekday requires the fabric to be at a high-quality standard. Due to the quality standard and long wearing garments associated with the collection, it is imperative that the quality is upheld to exceed the European TCS requirements. Details and testing can be found in the appendix of this report.

Research into the raw materials including sustainable alternatives was conducted and conclusions of possible and likely fabrics to be implemented into the collection was gathered. The final decisions made were: Dutch merino wool melton. Due to the garment using this fabric being a top level garment coat, the European TCG SECTION 2.4: CHARACTERISTICS CONCERNING THE FABRIC AND THE GARMENT: COATS where fabrics should exceed the standard. Tests concerning mechanical and physical properties such as pilling should be extensively tested, along with colourfastness. One initial knitted swatch of the Dutch merino wool was initially tested, first with light colouration, and then compared across a darker colouration. To compare different effect of coloration of the Marino wool it is important to look at the difference in performance with the use of different dyes from the same supplier.

During the testing phases the Pilling Nu-Martindale Test (ISO 12945-2) was carried out, this method tests the resistance against pilling of woven and knitted fabrics. The requirement set was less than 2-3 change at 1000 revolutions, due to the change being at worst 3 at 1000 revolutions the fabric passed to the standard wanted. This was the same across both colourations of merino wool. Colour Fastness To Perspiration (ISO 105 E04) Was also studied, this method for determining the resistance of the colour of all kinds and in all forms to the action of human perspiration. The requirement set was less than 4 change and staining for both alkali and acid, due to the change and staining being at worst 4/5 fabric passed to the standard wanted. This was the same across both merino wool indicting the colorfastness was not effected with a darker coloured dye. The both the knitted swatches passed all tests to the European TCG recommendations knitwear category with similar results, for this reason only minor finishes and or changes are recommended. For this focusing on finished with low environmental impacts is imperative when trying to improve quality. With the information now indicating darker coloured merino wool can have the same level of colourfastness, the implementation of this fibre can confidently be added to the TRLD collection.

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QUALITY TESTING

Worsted wool suiting.

Due to the garments using this fabric covering both jackets and trousers the European TCG SECTION 2.1: CHARACTERISTICS CONCERNING THE FABRIC AND THE GARMENT: TROUSERS AND SHORTS should be used due it having higher requirements than the TSG for jackets only.

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QUALITY TESTING

Cotton poplin (recycled) Due to the garments using this fabric covering shirts the European TCG SECTION 2.8: CHARACTERISTICS CONCERNING THE FABRIC AND THE GARMENT: SHIRTS, DRESSES AND BLOUSES should be used.

Polyester high twist suiting weight (recycled) - no physical swatch currently. Due to the garments using this fabric covering both jackets and trousers the European TCG SECTION 2.3: CHARACTERISTICS CONCERNING THE FABRIC AND THE GARMENT: JACKETS due to MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES of the basic suit lower values are applicable for the trousers.

Denim (recycled) Due to the garments using this fabric covering both jackets and trousers the European TCG SECTION 2.1: CHARACTERISTICS CONCERNING THE FABRIC AND THE GARMENT: TROUSERS AND SHORTS should be used due it having higher requirements than the TSG for jackets only.

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QUALITY TESTING For each of the fabrics the following tests at minimum should be taken: - Martindale tester (ISO 12947-2) This method tests the determination of abrasion resistance of fabrics.

- The Colour Fastness To Rubbing (ISO 105-X12) method intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds to rubbing off and staining other materials.

- Dimensional change in domestic washing and drying. (ISO 5077 / 6330) This method is determining the dimensional change of fabrics and garments when subjected to an appropriate combination of specified washing and drying procedures.

- Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering. (ISO 105 C06) This method is intended for determining the resistance of colour of textiles to domestic laundering procedures.

- Colour fastness to hot pressing (ISO 105-X11)This method for determining the resistance of colour of textiles to ironing and to processing on hot cylinders.

- The Wrinkle Recovery Tester (ISO 9867) This method is used to determine the appearance of textile fabrics after induced wrinkling.

Following the results of these tests, final decisions for fabric choices can be made along with indicating relevant finishes applicable for each fabric. Following further testing of finished fabrics a care label can be made giving Weekday customers the advice for elongating the life of their garments with care instructions.

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TRIMMINGS Corozo buttons are going to be sourced from Panama City and applied to the TRLD collection. Made from palm trees, Corozo buttons are a more environmentally friendly alternative that does not contain chemicals, heavy metals, or other toxic ingredients.

The production of Corozo buttons doesn’t require cutting down trees, does not use toxic chemicals, and does not create toxic by-products that make it more sustainable when compared to the regular production of trimmings. Corozo Buttons will be applied in blazers, shirts, and pants.

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PRODUCTION

PRODUCTION WASTE

Moving to a long-term goal working with purify technology where postproduction waste could be used to create 100% recycled materials, with this, another stream of waste is rerouted helping movement towards a fully closed loop, for this reason it should be a priority not only for weekday but also the entirety of the HM group for all production waste. For this, waste is taken from cutting tables and is immediately sorted and labelled so treatments and dying processes can be considered before the “Unspinning” process takes place.

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DEADSTOCK The H&M group has a fast-growing solution for deadstock in their portfolio that TLRD will use as.

What is Afound? It is a marketplace for apparel, accessories and interiors from around 400 third-party brands and growing. Of course, including H&M’s own brands.

They offer pieces for men, women and children regardless from the seasons.1 As the term marketplace explains, a diverse number of brands are offering their products on the site and ship directly from brand to consumer.

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END OF LIFE

Promoting circularity with active participation from the weekday customer is important with the instore recycling bins, extending the current systems to encompass both recycling and downcycling will allow better circularity and an eventual goal for a fully closed loop system. Using BOER GROUP for sorting will allow for European based sorting where About half of the collected textiles are reused as re-wearable clothing through selection. For the other half, the sorting process will split the textile waste in raw materials and quality allowing separate recycling processes to continue.

Longer cotton fibres should be used in the 40% post-consumer recycled going into all cotton-based products in future collection. Alongside garment production, partnering also with IKEA for their up-cycled denim collection would be both good for brand exposure to new customers along with supply a new source of income from denim waste. The KLIPPAN sofa covers currently contain 40% recycled denim, by pairing two Swedish companies both with modern Scandinavian design as their core and the denim collection being one of Weekday’s key product groups, the collaboration would fit both brands perfectly.

Within this sorting process the passing on other fibres pre-sorted to other recycling companies can be done. For WEEKDAY own garments, well labelled garments, no mixed materials, and design for disassembly makes this process simpler and faster.

Companies such as NOVA FIDES for wool and Frankenhuis BV will be used.

A long-term goal of using Lower quality shorter fibres to produce Retex panels is advised. Retex technology used post-consumer textile waste to create panels. These panels can be used in many uses as MDF alternatives in terms of price, however quality, sustainability and uses are much better. Downcycling will almost cut the post-consumer waste from weekday customers and close the loop for waste.

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PRODUCT TAKEBACK In order to plan the product takeback, we must make sure the customers have a drive to bring back their clothes.

Today the average person buys 60% more clothes but also uses it just half the time as 15 years ago. It is only logical that the amount of textile waste has doubled over the past 20 years.

For that reason, recycling and reusing has become more and more important for the daily user. (Bayerischer Rundfunk (2021) https://www.br.de/radio/ bayern1/altkleider-116.html)

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PRODUCT TAKEBACK - MINI SURVEY

So, what do people do with their worn clothes they are willing to give away other than selling it? Who is the “competitor” to Weekday’s takeback option?

We went out on the streets and did field research. We asked the people just two easy questions to make it as easy as possible to get numerous results in a brief time. A questioner was also digitally spread to a heterogeneous group of people. The collection of answers ran from the 4th to the 12th of December 2021. The questions were:

Where do you give away your worn clothes, besides selling them?

Would you prefer a donating option that rewards you a little? (e.g., discount to buy new clothes)

For the first question, several answers could be ticked. 64,6% of the answers were “charity collection”. 25,3% people said “other” and 10,1% use the trash to get rid of their clothes.

As “other” options people mentioned giving away the clothes to family (younger siblings etc.), friends and giving the clothes directly to a specific charity institution.

47,1% of the questioned participants would enjoy a rewad for their donation.

44,1% do not care about a reward. They would go for the environmentally better option. 8,8% would not like a return for their old clothes.

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PRODUCT TAKEBACK - MINI SURVEY

Asking this question personally, a lot of discussions aroused, and the most heard phrase was: “it depends….”.

The most mentioned factors that would affect their answers are: Transparency -> “I really have to know where the products go and what is done with them” Accessibility -> “I`d go for the easiest option” When discussing the topic in the field research a little further and we mentioned that our recycling option was offered by the H&M Group the mistrust grew as well. The question “would you donate to part of the “H&M” group was not in the survey, therefore it is not quantitatively analyzed. To reflect on that, it would be an interesting aspect to cover in future research.

Learnings from the survey: The textile collection on the streets is the most common way to donate. An easy option mostly located besides other trash bins in the neighborhood. That also fits perfectly to the personal response we got by talking with strangers as part of this study. A lot of people mentioned the “easier option” as response for the second question although that was not even an option in the questionnaire. So, this is a crucial factor. None of the asked participants mentioned the option to give away clothes to the brand/store they bought it form.

One can see, the awareness of product-takebacks is very poor. The other thing that strikes the eye most is people would enjoy having a little reward for their donation, but almost the same number of people do not care about a monetary compensation if they can be sure the cause of the donation is good.

Accessibility must be ensured Transparency must be ensured Awareness must rise Reward helps to choose recycling option Charity collectors are main give-away option

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PRODUCT TAKEBACK

Weekday already offers to take back Weekday products. Now we take this to the next level by rebranding the takeback scheme under the name of “Wee-Cycle”. Collaborating with the BOER Group we have a partner that can sort all returned garments according to its condition and recyclability. Due to our diverse recycling options, we can accept any garment donated. According to the BOER Group around 50% of the collected items are in a resalable condition. That insures us that we will get enough usable garments back to profit from the takeback. BOER Group also cares for the common charity recycling bins. (https://www.boergroup.eu/?lang=de) Reward. The Weecycle will take H&M`s newly launched Conscious Point scheme as a model and use its technical infrastructure. H&M´s program gives you e.g., 1 Point for 1€ you spend on specific “conscious” products and 15% discount on an article, as well as 20 Points for donating old clothes. We advise extending the program to Weekday. Buying TLRD articles will boost one’s point-count as all pieces are “conscious”. The Points are saved on your Account and are used when purchasing online or by scanning your QR code at the cash desk. The conscious points can be seen as the eco tax in “pre-payment”. Once you have collected 100 Points you can use them to get the eco costs off from one article on your next purchase. This plays with laziness as well as the consciousness of the consumers. In exaggeration, but to give you the picture you could say: “Donate your clothes and be free of eco-sins». Financially the donation does not correlate with the price of the eco tax, nevertheless it is a perfect tool to implement in the marketing of the takeback.

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PRODUCT TAKEBACK A question that may arise:

Does the takeback scheme not enforce the throw-away culture?

We drive the customer to buy once they reach enough weecycle-points to save money and reduce their CO2 footprint. That way people might even wait longer before consuming new items. The customer should consider if he has a high enough weecycle point score to purchase a new item.

The goal is to let the consumer consider if there is anything they could give back before the next purchase. By reminding the consumers of the option to give away clothes and the correlating point score, consumers become more aware of all the clothes that are in their closet already.

Awareness. The takeback must be made attractive for all consumers, especially for the Weekday followers. It is mandatory to launch a PR campaign around the new recycling offensive. Here the focus should not be on Weekday (and H&M) itself, but on the importance of recycling and the Weecycle boxes, as people have a rather bad association with H&M concerning sustainability (as seen in previous research).

4 goals to market the takeback 1.) The compensation of CO2 emissions by giving away your clothes are to be marketed full-on in the campaign.

2.) The people must know what they pay eco costs for.

3.) One goal of this campaign is to make the donators feel like they become part of weekdays supply chain and collection creation process. They become suppliers so to say, as their garments are used for new garments. This could optionally be linked with a talent competition for garment designs. That way people receive an even more open-minded impression of weekday, as one can “be partly(!) responsible for fabrics AND design”.

4.) As covered in the brand analysis Weekdays customers are highly affine in social media. A part of the campaign should be the implementation of the Hashtag #weecycle. Selected Influencers will introduce the #weecycle to their audience. We must make it “cool”/ let it “become a trend” to donate the garments with Weecycle and use that to our advantage.

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PRODUCT TAKEBACK

Accessibility. To choose our Weecycle bins as a preferred donating option we must make the Weecycle-bins easy to access 24/7. So, we simply put the containers to the outside of every Weekday store where it is possible instead of having it somewhere inside. The widespread locations of our mother-brand can be used to maximize accessibility in the long term. To open the recycling bin, your QR code will be scanned. As a result, the points you get for donating will be directly transferred to your account. The Weecycling box cannot be opened without the scanning process and therefore an existing account. This will provide the H&M group with more customer data for commercial use. Here we turn the recycling from a cost center to a profit center, where profit = customer data and more brand awareness.

Estimated price for Weecycle bin (excl. Software): 34,99€ QR-Scanner + 908€ Collection Bin + electronic lock 32,98€ = 975,97€ https://www.kaufland.de/product/357816150/?vid=355965017 https://www.resorti.de/altkleidercontainer/ https://www.amazon.de/INC-Elektronisches-Schrankschloss-Karten-Schlie%C3%9Ffach-Holzschublade/dp/ B07M98B19B/ref=sr_1_10?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=elektronisches+schloss&qid=16 39483787&sr=8-10

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PRODUCT TAKEBACK

According to Shopifys Fashion Industry Report the return rate in online shopping stands at 30% and is even 50% in some segments. Also the trend to buy several versions of a product to keep the best fitting was boosted by COVID-19. (https://3dlook.me/blog/howto-reduce-returns-in-ecommerce/) That critical trend can be turned into good as used garments can also be included in the return. Packages that go to return to the company anyway can now be filled with donations and weecycle-points can be collected automatically. Returning only used garments shall be offered as well as returning a garment saves more CO2 emission than the return causes.

For the sake of completeness, the route between weekdays returns-warehouse in Tilburg and the collection point of the boer group in Heestereng must be taken into concern. The sorting of the returns and the donations can be done in one step with the quality check.

CO2 emission saved by 1kg returned garments =3,4kg CO2 > average CO2 emission for one parcel delivery according to the oeko institute = 600g CO2 (https:// www.oeko.de/aktuelles/2015/onlineshoppen-oder-beim-lokalen-haendler/ and https://www.boergroup.eu/?lang=de) 25

PRODUCT TAKEBACK

Transparency. The most used way to give away old clothes is by the textile containers that are sometimes located next to bigger trash containers or glass bins. Unfortunately, not every time are these containers from trustworthy companies or by the government, so often it is unclear where the textiles go. (Center for promotion of imports from developing countries (2021) https://www.cbi.eu/market-information/ apparel/recycled-fashion/market-potential). That is something TLRD can do better.

We advise showing in depth explanatory stories on how exactly the garments are sourced. At the same time the QR-Codes on the care labels show not only the origin of a garment but also the ways this garment will go after bringing it back. E.g., Wool -> Novafides, Cotton -> IKEA Program, other fibres -> Retex.

In that way consumers are educated what they pay eco tax for and have a clear view of TLRD´s supply chain.

Every garment in our collection has an QR-code on its hangtag. By scanning the Code one has access to the specific lifecycle a garment goes through, depending on the garment.

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WHERE WE INTEGRATE OUR ECO COSTS INTO THE COMPANY’S FINANCIAL STRUCTURE (https://hmgroup.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/HM-Annual-Report-2020.pdf)

Accumulated eco costs per product should be split between the company and the consumer.

Half of the calculated eco costs are advised to be paid by Weekday considering eco cost within the internal, administrative costs. This is done to take a stand for their actions and show responsibility. Furthermore, because of governmental regulations that are predicted (product stewardship which allocates responsibility to governments by setting eco taxes or costs for CO2 emissions), environmental burden should become Weekday’s internal costs also for the upcoming line TLRD. Hereby, Weekday can work towards their overall goal but also H&M group’s 2040 goal of becoming climate positive. (https://www. weekday.com/en_eur/blog-article/sustainability/w/supply-chain-and-supplier-list.html) Moreover, taking these costs as early as possible into consideration can help Weekday for a smooth strategic transition once further governmental legislations regarding extended producer responsibility or eco taxes are introduced.

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WHERE WE INTEGRATE OUR ECO COSTS INTO THE COMPANY’S FINANCIAL STRUCTURE

Weekday is stating that an internal carbon pricing model is already developed and taken into consideration throughout the different stages of the supply chain. (https://www.weekday. com/en_eur/blog-article/sustainability/w/supply-chain-andsupplier-list.html) When implementing this costs point, company-wide awareness of the cost of carbon can be raised and is helping with more conscious choices also for future collections regarding sustainable material choices and production places.

The other half should be paid by the consumer to raise awareness about rising costs. This would be done through a pricing which would state the eco costs share that the costumer is paying.

For further insight into different costs necessary to produce a certain item of Weekday, examples can be stated on Weekday’s website to offer transparency in that part.

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WHAT WE DO TO COMPENSATE FOR OUR CO2 EMISSIONS

After conducted research, Weekday is advised to invest the funds created in the profit centre to a project in Romania to compensate the CO2 emissions that are resulting from the various stages of the supply chain. At GreenTech, around 100,000 tonnes of PET bottles and other plastic waste are recycled and processed into flakes or granulate. These can be used for the packaging industry, construction sector or textile production and around 60,000 tonnes of CO2 emissions can be prevented annually. “GreenTech is the first and only recycling company in Europe to have its activities as a carbon offset project certified by Gold Standard.” (https:// www.myclimate.org/information/carbon-offset-projects/detail-carbon-offset-projects/romania-waste-management-7231/) As a long- term outlook, Weekday could even benefit from this partnership by having a supplier of recycled polyester fibres. Moreover, sourcing in Romania is well positioned when taking all other European suppliers into consideration and could shorten transportation ways instead of sourcing it from Asian countries.

The 2020 Fashion Transparency Index gave Weekday a score of 71-80% based on how much the group discloses about its social and environmental policies, practices, and impacts (2020, good on you). Currently, manufacturing takes place in mainly Turkey and various other East Asian countries where human rights and labour law are not ensured. “A project is pursued to improve wages” however there is no proof of paying a living wage for workers in the supply chain. Moreover, Weekday does not show any certifications about the labour standard which could ensure safety and health of the workers or decent working conditions.

MINIMUM WAGE VS FAIR LIVING WAGE FOR TURKEY

CMT TARIF 0,41 CMT MINUTES 70 = CMT 28,70 EURO

CMT TARIF 0,20 CMT MINUTES 70 = CMT 14,00 EURO

CMT 37.5%

CMT 50.8%

49.2%

62.5%

FINAL PRICE : 37,306 Euro

MARK UP 2,5

93,27€

FINAL PRICE : 56,487 Euro

MARK UP 2,5

141,22€

29

WHAT WE DO TO COMPENSATE FOR OUR CO2 EMISSIONS

Therefore, another suggestion would be the engagement to pay premium for each piece of the TLRD collection in the recommended initiative Fair Trade Certified™ as seen at Patagonia. (https://www.patagonia.com/ our-footprint/fair-trade.html?utm_source=youtube&utm_campaign=yt_f16_fair_trade&utm_medium=seo) Hereby, it can be ensured that this fund is directly paid to the workers to support community projects in the areas as health-care or child-care. The Fair- Trade program promotes social and environmental compliance as well as the safety and health of the workers.

Realistically seen, the TLRD collection could be feasible when aiming for the CO2 emission and the Fair-Trade Certified program. It would need more in-depth financial research and calculation as well as a strategy plan to aim for the following advices.

As a long-term goal it is intended to pay fair living wages to the workers within the supply chain. This would include various contracts ensuring also to cover pay gaps in different levels of the organization and include all workers.

Next to that, a Fair Labor Association (FLA) accreditation is suggested as an essential long-term goal.

Categories like “Health& Safety”, “Compensation” and “Hours of Work” would be audited in a monitoring program. Accreditation is given after an around three-year implementation phase during which a “substantial compliance with the FLA Workplace Code of Conduct” (https://www.fairlabor.org/accreditation) is worked towards to. On top of that, an assessment on the “fulfilment of the Principles of Fair Labor & Responsible Sourcing (for brands) or the Principles of Fair Labor & Responsible Production (for suppliers)” would be done which includes the following: “Adopting and communicating workplace standards, training staff to assess and remediate noncompliance issues, conducting internal assessments of facilities and providing workers with confidential reporting channels.” ( https://www.fairlabor.org/accreditation) These two processes would add up to the other measurements to ensure an environmental and social responsible production from Weekday.

30

CONCLUSION: “HAVE YOU FOUND WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR?”

So, how have we advised Weekday to set up the brand extension most profitably and sustainably? We have conducted surveys and field- and secondary research to answer that. As a result, we have found that it is recommended to exclude material blends entirely and implement cotton as 60% organic fibres and 40% recycled fibres from post-consumer origin. As for production waste, deadstock, and end of life, it is advised to collaborate with Purify Technology, Afound and the BOER Group to advance circularity and, eventually, a closed-loop system.

We advise splitting the eco-costs per product between the company and the consumer because we view them as having a shared responsibility for the social, environmental, and economic impacts. As an example, to compensate for Weekdays CO2 emissions, we recommend investing funds in a project in Romania and relocating sourcing to the country instead of Asia to shorten transportation.

Another suggestion is to pay a premium for pieces in the TLRD collection under the Fair-Trade Certified™ initiative. A Fair Labor Association (FLA) accreditation is also suggested as a necessary long-term goal, in addition to conducting assessments on the principles of Fair Labor & Responsible Sourcing and Production.

31

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Campaign, C.C. (2021). Full statement on the amended proposal of the committee’s rapporteurs as of April 2021. [online] Clean Clothes Campaign.

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Caulfield, K. (2018). Sources of Textile Waste in Australia. [online] studylib.net. Available at: https://studylib.net/doc/18791293/sources-oftextile-waste-in-australia [Accessed 14 Dec. 2021].

CE Delft. (n.d.). Milieuanalyses textiel/Lifecycle environmental impact assessment of textiles. [online] Available at: https://ce.nl/publicaties/ milieuanalyses-textiel-lifecycle-environmental-impact-assessment-of-textiles/ [Accessed 6 Dec. 2021].

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Energievergelijk. (n.d.). Wat is CO2? En is de uitstoot schadelijk? [online] Available at: https://www.energievergelijk.nl/onderwerpen/co2uitstoot [Accessed 9 Dec. 2021].

Enes, E. and Kipöz, Ş. (2020). The role of fabric usage for minimization of cut-and-sew waste within the apparel production line: Case of a summer dress. Journal of Cleaner Production, 248, p.119221. fashionchecker.org. (n.d.). FashionChecker: wages and transparency in the garment industry. [online] Available at: https://fashionchecker.org/ brand-profile.html?q=5590 [Accessed 5 Dec. 2021].

Global Living Wage Coalition. (n.d.). Home. [online] Available at: https://www.globallivingwage.org/ [Accessed 5 Dec. 2021].

Global Living Wage Coalition. (n.d.). Living Wage Reference Value - Rural Tunisia. [online] Available at: https://www.globallivingwage.org/living-wage-reference-value-rural-tunisia/ [Accessed 9 Dec. 2021].

H&M Group (2020). Recycling and Upcycling. [online] H&M Group. Available at: https://hmgroup.com/sustainability/circular-and-climate-positive/ recycling/ [Accessed 3 Dec. 2021].

H&M Group Material Categorisation. (n.d.). [online] Available at: https://hmgroup.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/HM-Group-Material-Categorisation-2021-1.pdf [Accessed 3 Dec. 2021].

H&M Group. (n.d.). Circular & Climate Positive. [online] Available at: https://hmgroup.com/sustainability/circular-and-climate-positive/ [Accessed 3 Dec. 2021].

H&M Group. (n.d.). Designing for circularity. [online] Available at: https://hmgroup.com/sustainability/circular-and-climate-positive/circularity/designing-for-circularity/ [Accessed 3 Dec. 2021].

H&M Group. (2021a). H&M Group - What’s the buzz about Higg Index? Creating consumer-facing transparency -. [online] Available at: https://hmgroup.com/news/the-higg-index-sustainability-profiles-a-common-language-for-collective-action/ [Accessed 4 Dec. 2021].

H&M Group. (2021b). Large scale study from H&M Group and IKEA shows potential to transform the way we use recycled textiles. [online] Available at: https://hmgroup.com/news/large-scale-study-from-hm-group-and-ikea-shows-potential-to-transform-the-way-we-use-recycled-textiles/ [Accessed 4 Dec. 2021].

H&M Group. (n.d.). Materials. [online] Available at: https://hmgroup.com/sustainability/circular-and-climate-positive/materials/ [Accessed 4 Dec. 2021].

H&M Group. (n.d.). Standards & Policies. [online] Available at: https://hmgroup.com/sustainability/standards-and-policies/ [Accessed 3 Dec. 2021].

32 H&M Group. (n.d.). Sustainability Reporting. [online] Available at: https://hmgroup.com/sustainability/sustainability-reporting/#climate-actions [Accessed 3 Dec. 2021].

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https://www.kaufland.de. (n.d.). 1D 2D QR Desktop Barcode Scanner USB Barcode Leser, erfasst Barcodes vom. [online] Available at: https://www. kaufland.de/product/357816150/?vid=355965017 [Accessed 14 Dec. 2021].

Infinited Fiber. (n.d.). Our technology. [online] Available at: https://infinitedfiber.com/our-technology/ [Accessed 3 Dec. 2021].

Iso.org. (2021). ISO 14040:2006(en) Environmental management — Life cycle assessment — Principles and framework. [online] Available at: https:// www.iso.org/obp/ui/#iso:std:iso:14040:ed-2:v1:en:en12 [Accessed 5 Dec. 2021].

LABOUR MINUTE COSTING A TOOL FOR ESTABLISHING LIVING WAGE FLOORS IN GARMENT FACTORIES by Klaus Hohenegger & Doug Miller for Fair Wear Foundation. (n.d.). [online] Available at: https://api.fairwear.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/FWF-LabourMinuteCosting.pdf [Accessed 28 Nov. 2021].

Natives, D. (n.d.). Fair Wear’s labour-minute costing tools, and living wage estimates. [online] Fair Wear. Available at: https://www.fairwear. org/programmes/lw-tools-and-benchmarks [Accessed 28 Nov. 2021].

PurFi. (n.d.). PurFi - A Circular Fiber Company. [online] Available at: https://purfiglobal.com/ [Accessed 14 Dec. 2021]. purfi.com. (n.d.). Partners - Purfi - Rejuvenating fibers for a circular world. [online] Available at: https://purfi.com/partners [Accessed 14 Dec. 2021].

Redress (2018). ORGANISED BY ECOCHIC DESIGN AWARD SOURCING TEXTILE WASTE. [online] Available at: https://static1.squarespace.com/static/582d0d16440243165eb756db/t/59c0c087f5e23187dabd53bd/1505804510485/LEARN2014_Sourcing_ENG_REV20170808.pdf [Accessed 14 Dec. 2021].

RESORTI (n.d.). Altkleidercontainer. [online] RESORTI. Available at: https://www.resorti.de/altkleidercontainer/ [Accessed 13 Dec. 2021].

Rundfunk, B. (2021). Altkleider: Was passiert mit alter Kleidung? www.br.de. [online] Available at: https://www.br.de/radio/bayern1/altkleider-116.html [Accessed 14 Dec. 2021].

Soy Real Estate. (n.d.). Climate compensation: What possibilities do companies have for offsetting CO2 emissions? [online] Available at: https:// www.soy-real-estate.com/en/blog/climate-compensation/ [Accessed 9 Dec. 2021].

Studio, R. (2019). IHow we reduced our Carbon Footprint by 51% by using organic cotton? [online] Medium. Available at: https://medium.com/@reflectstudio/ihow-we-reduced-our-carbon-footprint-by-51-by-using-organic-cotton-5903d295c304 [Accessed 17 Dec. 2021].

Sustainable Apparel Coalition (2019). Sustainable Apparel Coalition. [online] Apparelcoalition.org. Available at: https://apparelcoalition.org/ [Accessed 4 Dec. 2021].

Weekday. (n.d.). Circularity. [online] Available at: https://www.weekday.com/en_eur/blog-article/sustainability/w/circularity.html [Accessed 3 Dec. 2021].

Weekday. (n.d.). Keep it in the loop. [online] Available at: https://www.weekday.com/en_eur/blog-article/sustainability/w/keep-it-in-the-loop. html [Accessed 3 Dec. 2021].

Weekday. (n.d.). Special Projects. [online] Available at: https://www.weekday.com/en_eur/blog-article/sustainability/w/special-projects.html [Accessed 3 Dec. 2021]. www.amazon.de. (n.d.). Electronic Cabinet Lock, Card Locker Hidden DIY Kit Fits Wooden Drawer Shoe Cabinet with RFID Card/Tag Entry : Amazon.de: DIY & Tools. [online] Available at: https://www.amazon.de/INC-Elektronisches-Schrankschloss-Karten-Schlie%C3%9Ffach-Holzschublade/dp/B07M98B19B/ ref=sr_1_10?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=elektronisches+schloss&qid=1639483787&sr=8-10 [Accessed 14 Dec. 2021]. www.cbi.eu. (n.d.). The European market potential for recycled fashion | CBI - Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries. [online] Available at: https://www.cbi.eu/market-information/apparel/recycled-fashion/market-potential [Accessed 14 Dec. 2021]. www.fairlabor.org. (n.d.). Accreditation | Fair Labor Association. [online] Available at: https://www.fairlabor.org/accreditation [Accessed 5 Dec. 2021]. www.informit.com. (n.d.). Towards Socially Responsible Innovation: An Interview with the Authors of Citizen Engineer | Towards Socially Responsible Innovation: An Interview with the Authors of Citizen Engineer | InformIT. [online] Available at: https://www.informit.com/articles/ article.aspx?p=1399912 [Accessed 28 Nov. 2021]. www.myclimate.org. (n.d.). Circular Economy Through Plastic Recycling in Romania. [online] Available at: https://www.myclimate.org/information/ carbon-offset-projects/detail-carbon-offset-projects/romania-waste-management-7231/ [Accessed 9 Dec. 2021]. www.outdoorbrands.nl. (n.d.). Carbon Compensation. [online] Available at: https://www.outdoorbrands.nl/Outdoor-Apparel-Online-Shop-Outdoorbrands-CO2-Compensation [Accessed 9 Dec. 2021]. www.patagonia.com. (n.d.). Fair Trade CertifiedTM - Patagonia. [online] Available at: https://www.patagonia.com/our-footprint/fair-trade.html?utm_source=youtube&utm_campaign=yt_f16_fair_trade&utm_medium=seo [Accessed 5 Dec. 2021]. www.youtube.com. (n.d.). The Higg Index. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=183&v=rK-Or8yIffU&feature=emb_logo [Accessed 4 Dec. 2021].

33

COMPONENTS OF COTTON POPLIN SHIRT

COMPONENTS OF OVERSIZED BLAZER

IDEMAT EXCEL SHEET

RESULTS OF CALCULATION COTTON POPLIN SHIRT

T R A N S P O R T A T I O N

SOURCING

TOTAL CARBON FOOTPRINT kg TOTAL ECO COSTS EURO SOURCING PRODUCTION USE PHASE END OF LIFE

PRODUCTION

USE PHASE

END OF LIFE

0,084925712 +

2,990722441 +

0,0000157737 +

0,040329668

= 3,115993594

0,134612035 +

0,554467809 +

0,0000043138 +

0,010398981

= 0,699483139

RELATION 0

25

50

75

100

IDEMAT EXCEL SHEET

RESULTS OF CALCULATION WOOL OVERSIZED BLAZER

T R A N S P O R T A T I O N

SOURCING

TOTAL CARBON FOOTPRINT kg TOTAL ECO COSTS EURO SOURCING PRODUCTION USE PHASE END OF LIFE

PRODUCTION

USE PHASE

END OF LIFE

42,81 +

4,670 +

0,0000440182 +

0,000025863630

= 47,483

5,26 +

0,940 +

0,0000120267 +

0,00000706638

= 6,197

RELATION 0

25

50

75

100

IDEMAT EXCEL SHEET

RESULTS OF CALCULATION TRANSPORTATION ONLY FOR THE SAKE OF DIFFERENTIATING THE TRANSPORTATION WAYS OF THE PRODUCTS

COTTON POPLIN SHIRT ECO COSTS PER SHIRT (200g)IN EUR = 0,00496712

WOOL OVERSIZED BLAZER ECO COSTS PER BLAZER (550g)IN EUR = 0,013569622

IDEMAT EXCEL SHEET

LIMITATIONS OF CALCULATION COTTON POPLIN SHIRT

T R A N S P O R T A T I O N

SOURCING

PRODUCTION

USE PHASE

WHAT WAS INCLUDED?

- 60% organic cotton from egypt, - spinning, weaving, dyeing, finishes, laundry, energy and water use, main label/ size label, care label, hang tag, 40% post- consumer cotton buttons recycled

LIMITATIONS

organic cotton and postconsumer cotton recycled: no differentiation in Idemat excel ("Idemat2022 bio-Cotton, India" for both items) probably inadequate numbers

finishes: original finish chitosan odor prevention from bacteriostat/ Idemat excel: "Idemat2022 Acetic Anhydride, Halcon process" energy: no information about type of energy from factory, no concrete numbers/ Idemat excel "Idemat2022 Industrial Heat, General" and "Idemat2022 .Electricity General Industry" for estimation buttons: original raw material urea/ Idemat excel: "Idemat2022 Urea" includes only raw material and not whole production of buttons itself sewing thread: not considered as no similar item was found

END OF LIFE - sorting at BOER GROUP (partly), retex panels downcycling in Groningen (partly)

CONSUMER USE PHASE: no representation of the stage of consumer use which usually can have a big affect on the carbon footprint (laundry, cleaning, drying, passing on for re-use, disposal in trash or passed on for re-use or given for recycling

sorting at BOER GROUP: original numbers can not be realistically recorded/ Idemat excel: "Idemat2022 plastic waste, collection&sorting" retex panels down cycling in Groningen: original numbers can not be realistically recorded/ Idemat excel: "Idemat2022 MDF at factury gate (740 kg/m3)"

IDEMAT EXCEL SHEET

LIMITATIONS OF CALCULATION COTTON POPLIN SHIRT WHAT WAS INCLUDED? - SOURCING: 60% organic cotton from egypt, 40% post- consumer cotton recycled - PRODUCTION: spinning, weaving, dyeing, finishes, laundry, energy and water use, main label/ size label, care label, hang tag, buttons - END OF LIFE: sorting at BOER GROUP (partly), retex panels downcycling in Groningen (partly) - TRANSPORTATION OF ALL GOODS

LIMITATIONS - SOURCING: organic cotton and post- consumer cotton recycled: no differentiation in Idemat excel ("Idemat2022 bio-Cotton, India" for both items) probably inadequate numbers - PRODUCTION: finishes: original finish chitosan odor prevention from bacteriostat/ Idemat excel: "Idemat2022 Acetic Anhydride, Halcon process" energy: no information about type of energy from factory, no concrete numbers/ Idemat excel "Idemat2022 Industrial Heat, General" and "Idemat2022 .Electricity General Industry" for estimation buttons: original raw material urea/ Idemat excel: "Idemat2022 Urea" includes only raw material and not whole production of buttons itself sewing thread: not considered as no similar item was found - CONSUMER USE PHASE: no representation of the stage of consumer use which usually can have a big affect on the carbon footprint (laundry, cleaning, drying, passing on for re-use, disposal in trash or passed on for re-use or given for recycling - END OF LIFE: sorting at BOER GROUP: original numbers can not be realistically recorded/ Idemat excel: "Idemat2022 plastic waste, collection&sorting" retex panels down cycling in Groningen: original numbers can not be realistically recorded/ Idemat excel: "Idemat2022 MDF at factury gate (740 kg/m3)"

IDEMAT EXCEL SHEET

LIMITATIONS OF CALCULATION OVERSIZED WOOL BLAZER

T R A N S P O R T A T I O N

SOURCING WHAT WAS INCLUDED?

LIMITATIONS

- wool from italy

wool: originally produced in Italy / Idemat excel "Idemat2022 Wool at farm Australia" probably inadequate numbers

PRODUCTION

USE PHASE

- spinning, weaving, dyeing, finishes, laundry, renewable energy and water use, main label/ size label, care label, hang tag, buttons spinning, weaving: no item for wool/ Idemat excel "Idemat2022. spinning& weaving cotton 300 dtex" finishes: original finish plasma technology foam finishing/ Idemat excel: "Idemat2022 Acetic Anhydride, Halcon process" renewable energy: original factory uses renewable energy, but no concrete number/ Idemat excel "Idemat2022 Industrial Heat, General" and "Idemat2022 Hydro-electric power (Norway)" for estimation buttons: original raw material urea/ Idemat excel: "Idemat2022 Urea" includes only raw material and not whole production of buttons itself sewing thread: not considered as no similar item was found

END OF LIFE - sorting at BOER GROUP (partly)

CONSUMER USE PHASE: no representation of the stage of consumer use which usually can have a big affect on the carbon footprint (laundry, cleaning, drying, passing on for re-use, disposal in trash or passed on for re-use or given for recycling

sorting at BOER GROUP: original numbers can not be realistically recorded/ Idemat excel: "Idemat2022 plastic waste, collection&sorting"

IDEMAT EXCEL SHEET

LIMITATIONS OF CALCULATION OVERSIZED WOOL BLAZER WHAT WAS INCLUDED? - SOURCING: wool from italy - PRODUCTION: spinning, weaving, dyeing, finishes, laundry, renewable energy and water use, main label/ size label, care label, hang tag, buttons - END OF LIFE: sorting at BOER GROUP (partly) - TRANSPORTATION OF ALL GOODS

LIMITATIONS - SOURCING: wool: originally produced in Italy / Idemat excel "Idemat2022 Wool at farm Australia" probably inadequate numbers - PRODUCTION: spinning, weaving: no item for wool/ Idemat excel "Idemat2022. spinning& weaving cotton 300 dtex" finishes: original finish plasma technology foam finishing/ Idemat excel: "Idemat2022 Acetic Anhydride, Halcon process" renewable energy: original factory uses renewable energy, but no concrete number/ Idemat excel "Idemat2022 Industrial Heat, General" and "Idemat2022 Hydro-electric power (Norway)" for estimation buttons: original raw material urea/ Idemat excel: "Idemat2022 Urea" includes only raw material and not whole production of buttons itself sewing thread: not considered as no similar item was found - CONSUMER USE PHASE: no representation of the stage of consumer use which usually can have a big affect on the carbon footprint (laundry, cleaning, drying, passing on for re-use, disposal in trash or passed on for re-use or given for recycling - END OF LIFE: sorting at BOER GROUP: original numbers can not be realistically recorded/ Idemat excel: "Idemat2022 plastic waste, collection&sorting"

IDEMAT EXCEL SHEET

CONCLUSIONS AFTER CALCULATION CRITICAL ITEM 1 WOOL 42,81 kg CO2

- originally produced in Italy / Idemat excel "Idemat2022 Wool at farm Australia" probably inadequate numbers SOLUTION 1 After critical analysis of given data and if it is representative, a solution might be to ensure 100% recycled wool which could lower energy consumption, fewer methane emissions etc. through the reuse of the raw material.

CRITICAL ITEM 2 WOOL DYEING 1,422 kg CO2

- Idemat excel "Idemat2022. dyeing, without materials input, Europe" SOLUTION 2 This would first need a critical assessment which dyeing technique would be considered by the Idemet excel to then assess which dyeing technique would have an overall better result in the CO2 emissions. (e.g. including dyeing material, closed-loop process for less energy, recycled water etc.)

CRITICAL ITEM 3 BUTTONS (WOOL) 1,152 kg CO2

- original raw material of buttons urea/ Idemat excel: "Idemat2022 Urea" includes only raw material and not whole production of buttons itself SOLUTION 3 Do critical research upon other sustainable, recycled or recyclable buttons where raw material has less impact

MINIMUM WAGE VS FAIR LIVING WAGE FOR TUNISIA

CMT TARIF 0,25 CMT MINUTES 20 = CMT 5,00 EURO

CMT TARIF 0,16 CMT MINUTES 20 = CMT 3,20 EURO

CMT 16.4%

CMT 11.4%

88.6%

FINAL PRICE : 28,056 Euro

MARK UP 2,5

70,14€

83.6%

FINAL PRICE: 30,407 Euro

MARK UP 2,5

76,02€

MINIMUM WAGE VS FAIR LIVING WAGE FOR TURKEY

CMT TARIF 0,41 CMT MINUTES 70 = CMT 28,70 EURO

CMT TARIF 0,20 CMT MINUTES 70 = CMT 14,00 EURO

CMT 37.5%

CMT 50.8%

49.2%

62.5%

FINAL PRICE : 37,306 Euro

MARK UP 2,5

93,27€

FINAL PRICE : 56,487 Euro

MARK UP 2,5

141,22€

TRUE COST ACCOUNTING INCL. ECO COSTS

SIZE L 70,49 € from which 0,35€ will compensate all CO2 emissions of your product

ECO COSTS 0,70€

1/2 INCLUDING 1/2 ECO COSTS 0,35€ IN ADMINISTRATIVE COSTS (AS NEW COST CENTRE "ECO COSTS") OF THE COMPANY

1/2 70,49€

TRUE COST ACCOUNTING INCL. ECO COSTS+ FAIR LIVING WAGE

SIZE L 76,37 € from which 0,35€ will compensate all CO2 emissions of your product

ECO COSTS 0,70€

1/2 INCLUDING 1/2 ECO COSTS 0,35€ IN ADMINISTRATIVE COSTS (AS NEW COST CENTRE "ECO COSTS") OF THE COMPANY

1/2 76,37€

TRUE COST ACCOUNTING INCL. ECO COSTS

SIZE L 96,37 € from which 3,10 € will compensate all CO2 emissions of your product

ECO COSTS 6,20€

1/2 INCLUDING 1/2 ECO COSTS 3,10€ IN ADMINISTRATIVE COSTS (AS NEW COST CENTRE "ECO COSTS") OF THE COMPANY

1/2 96,37 €

TRUE COST ACCOUNTING INCL. ECO COSTS+ FAIR LIVING WAGE

SIZE L 144,32 € from which 3,10€ will compensate all CO2 emissions of your product

ECO COSTS 6,20€

1/2 INCLUDING 1/2 ECO COSTS 3,10€ IN ADMINISTRATIVE COSTS (AS NEW COST CENTRE "ECO COSTS") OF THE COMPANY

1/2 144,32€

EXPLANATION APPLICATION- PURFI

FINANCIAL BENEFITS OF PURFI EXAMPLE WITH COTTON Usual cotton production of 1000kg 1180 kg CO2 emissions

ABOUT PURFI A long-term goal of switching to 100% recycled all materials should be followed. PurFi technology works with Concordia textiles to convert postproduction waste (B1 waste according to NTA 8195 Circular textile standard) into new fabrics. The process involves Waste is taken from cutting table so all the information about the fabric is known (composition, finishes, fibre length), yarn in then mechanically extracted and ‘reverse spinning’ is used to create the new yarn. This process pushes innovation as both cotton and cotton blends can be recycled with up to 99 % less water, up to 40% less greenhouse gasses and up to 90% less energy used. The 100% recycled is same price as organic cotton, if produced in India will be just over the price of raw cotton. (P Brust 2021) This innovation still does have downsides, any fabric containing elastane cannot be used without new deelastane technologies only set to be available 2022/2023 onwards, alongside this, the end of use of these new garments is not discussed. (as seen in sourcing plan) "Clean waste" which could be used at Purfi - considering waste created manufacturing of fibre, yarn, fabric, and garment and produced by the fashion industry (Caulfield, 2009) - classified Pre-consumer waste such as; textile swatch waste, end-of-roll textile, damaged textile waste, unsold clothing waste, cut-and-sew waste, sampling yardage waste, and clothing sample waste

-> cut-and-sew waste, varying up to 15%, 150 kg(270kg CO2 emissions)would usually go to waste -> actual result: 1180kg CO2 emissions for 850kg only (+ eventually CO2 emission for landfill/ incernation) 136,88 Euro Eco Costs Sending waste to Purfi for fiber production 1000kg 1000 kg CO2 emissions 116,- Euro Eco Costs -> Overall Weekday(H&M group) could benefit from Purfi in terms of a closed-loop solution for post-production waste and supply with new fibres.

EXPLANATION APPLICATION- PURFI

BENEFITS OF PURFI

ENERGY USUAL COTTON: 60mj/kg of fibre PURFI: 4,5mj/kg of fibre

source: https://purfiglobal.com/

GREENHOUSE GAS EMISSIONS USUAL COTTON: 1,8kg CO2/kg of fibre PURFI: 1kg CO2/kg of fibre

WATER USUAL COTTON: 9633,1 L/ kg of fibre PURFI: 7,5 L/kg of fibre

ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS - reduce amount of waste - preserving resources: saving water, energy - avoiding manufacturing from raw materials which is considered as most polluting step - easier process of recycling through given information about cutting waste SOCIAL BENEFITS - Purfi: pays fair wages, works with ngo’s around the world to provide opportunities to minorities and women (gender equality) - lower risk of contamination (through waste reduction) - lower risk of (illegal) landfills (through waste reduction)

EXPLANATION APPLICATION- COTTON

FINANCIAL BENEFITS OF ORGANIC + RECYCLED COTTON EXAMPLE WITH COTTON Usual cotton production of 1000kg 1180 kg CO2 emissions 136,88 Euro Eco Costs Using 60% organic cotton from Egypt, 40% post- consumer recycled cotton from Tunisia (600kg/ 400kg-> 1000kg) 1000kg 62,88 Euro Eco Costs from which - 600 kg GOTS certified Organic Cotton (0,61 kg CO2/kg) 366 kg CO2 emissions 42,46 Euro Eco Costs - 400 kg Post-consumer recycled cotton from Tunisia (0,44 kg CO2/kg) 176 kg CO2 emissions 20,42 Euro Eco Costs -> CO2 emissions for the adviced share of organic and recycled cotton are more than halfed in comparison to usual cotton.

ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS - preserving resources: saving water, energy (organic cotton) - cutting out harmful chemicals (organic cotton) - avoiding soil degradation (organic cotton) - avoiding manufacturing from raw materials which is considered as most polluting step (recycled cotton) ABOUT COTTON USAGE The environmental impact of cotton is big because of the enormous use of pesticides, often GMO seeds and high usage of water. Experts claim that cotton is the most water demanding agricultural commodity. The use of different pesticides to grow the cotton is threatening the worker and biodiversity in that area. That results in poor soil quality, water pollution, but also the loss of beneficial insects in that area. The later dye or bleach of the fabric requires toxic chemicals, which degrades the soil and its fertility. Through the cotton fields, we can clearly see wildlife and whole ecosystems in danger because of the contamination of soil, water, air and plants in the life circle.

Cotton is widely used (2/3 of the textile flow is made of cotton) and has higher environmental emissions than most other fibres. The environmental impact of cotton is largely determined by the land use required for cotton cultivation. Washing and drying also cause a significant part of the environmental impact across the chain, due to the required energy consumption.

Naming all these factors, one of the applications in this report focuses on improving in that part: Implementation of all cotton being 60% organic fibres and 40% recycled fibres from post-consumer origin. Included also in the 60:40 divide is the cotton poplins for the shirts also produced with the denim.

Suggesting moving to all cotton 60% organic 40% recycled fibres satisfies both durability and minimises the amount of raw cotton needed for production when investigating this research into brands such as Studio Hilo and Planq are key examples of how this process especially for denim is implementable for brands such as Weekday where they are often seen as a frontrunner for innovation.

Using BOER GROUP for sorting will allow for European based sorting where about half of the collected textiles are reused as re-wearable clothing through selection. Longer cotton fibres can then be used in the 40% post-consumer recycled going into all cotton-based products in future collections.

From this, it promises that organic cotton do not use fertiliser which emits a big part of the greenhouse gases of usual cotton. Harmful chemicals like herbicides, highly toxic insecticides and carcinogens, are cut out and the use of alternatives to chemical dyes and whiteners like water-based dyes or peroxide for whitening are reducing the impact on the environment. Furthermore, the purity of the fibres is ensured in organic cotton as it is a handpicking only process which leads to less wastage than usual cotton and in an average high-end product. Critically to observe is hereby of course the labour, as it is labour intensive, and the efficiency.

Post-consumer recycled cotton on the other side enables the cut out of production steps like the cotton cultivation and harvest. Huge amounts of water, soil degradation and water pollution can be therefore immensely reduced. The reuse of cotton needs to be critically looked at as cotton fibres are becoming shorter every time they are recycled mechanically. Here, the proposed lifecycle would give the opportunity to downcycle it into Retex panels.

OVERVIEW OF COST IMPLICATIONS

Considering that Weekday would charge eco costs for the upcoming collections and the H&M group as a whole has high operating expenses either way, it can be concluded that it is possible to create funds to invest into CO2 emission offset immediately. Next to being responsible for the environmental impact, investing in the following mid-/longterm projects will definitely benefit Weekday to become also socially responsible for their products and processes as a company.

CO 2 OFF SET -SHORT TERM-

FAIR TRADE -MID TERM-

FAIR LIVING WAGES FAIR LABOUR ACCREDITATION -LONG TERM-

QUALITY PORTFOLIO

FABRIC CARD glue or double -sided tape (only here )

swatch 10 x 15 cm warp

weft

Technical fabric description: Construction: Construction specific: Colouration (not colour): Effect: Coating: Composition: Weight g/m² (or oz/yd²): Visible finish(es):

plain weave / twill weave / satin / weft knit/ warp knit … piece dyed / yarn dyed / fibre dyed / full printed /upon printed / overprinted / piece or yarn or fibre bleached / natural … yes / no cellulose / protein / synthetic specify: CO/ LI/ CV/ WO/ SE /CA or PA/ PAN or PES (if possible)/ EL …133.75g/m2 …

Additional fabric description: Fabric trade name: … Poplin Explain fabric name: …from papelino, a fabric made at Avignon, France Source of fabric name: … Boucoiran, Louis (1875).

Personal creative description of visual, haptic, sensorial attributes of your fabric swatch: … Smooth, thin, crispy, colourful pattern non bright vivid colours, Easy-care Relevant (chem.) finish: …

Matt

Sustainability: Elaborate on environmental aspects: toxic chemicals, pesticides, bad working conditions for factory workers, child labour, monoculture and deforestation …

Stick a sample of each yarn, in each colour, both warp and weft (if present) here: Fancy yarn included y/n: If yes, fancy yarn name: Page:

3

…

Owner:

Date:

Date

swatch 2 x 5 cm

RAW MATERIAL CARD

weft knitted

/

warp knitted

/

woven

/

nonwoven & extra

Numbers of the construction: not mandatory Weight in g/m² (for denims also in oz/yd²): Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: - burning quickly afterglowing - smells like burning paper soft pale grey ashes Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

CO

gives material:

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

gives material:

gives material: gives material:

Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: burning quickly afterglowing smells like burning paper soft pale grey ashes Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

CO

gives material:

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

Page:

gives material:

gives material: gives material:

4

Owner: Revision date:

SECTION 2.8: CHARACTERISTICS CONCERNING THE FABRIC AND THE GARMENT: SHIRTS, DRESSES AND BLOUSES

CHARACTERISTICS

STANDARD

STANDARD REQUIREMENT EUROPEAN TCG RECOMMENDATION

Iscariot

SUPPLIER’S VALUES OR TEST RESULTS

Pass Fail

2.1 CARE LABELLING Washing Bleaching Drying

EN-ISO 3758

Ironing Dry cleaning 2.2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY ! Steaming (pressing machine) ! Fusing (fusing press) ! Washing / drying (as indicated by the care label)* ! Dry cleaning 2.3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES ! Breaking strength and Elongation in % ! Breaking strength (Grab) ! Elasticity ! Tear strength ! Seam slippage: mm at daN ! Seam slippage: daN at mm !

Abrasion resistance (9kPa)

Pilling FS= Flat surface RS= Raised surface Kn= Knitwear !

2.4 COLOUR FASTNESS ** !

to washing

! !

to dry cleaning to ironing

!

to light, weathering

5690qwert I vbn p[]a dffghj klzx

40 1

y c : o

F

s

Length

Width

Length

Width

DIN 53894 P2

+/-1,0%

-2,0%

%

%

DIN 54311 ISO 5077 EN-ISO 6330 EN-ISO 3175

-1,5%

-1,5%

%

%

-2,0%

-2,0%

-1,1%

-1,1 %

-1,5%

-1,5%

%

%

Full fit

Tight fit

18 daN 12,5-40 12 daN 3% 0,8 daN 4 at 11 6 at 3

22 daN 12,5-55 15 daN 3% 1,0 daN 4 at 12 6 at 2

daN

daN

daN

daN

daN 4 at …..

6 at …..

daN 4 at …..

6 at …..

EN-ISO 13934-1 EN-ISO 13934-2 EN 14704-1 EN-ISO 13937-1 EN-ISO 13936-1 EN-ISO 13936-2 EN-ISO 12947-2 EN-ISO 12945-2

EN-ISO 105 A01A03 EN-ISO 105 C06, C08,C09 EN-ISO 105 D01 EN-ISO 105 X11 EN-ISO 105 B02, B04

revs

12.000 revs

7.600 4/5 125 revs FS 4, RS 3-4, Kn 3-4 4 500 revs FS 4, RS 3, Kn 3 4 1000 revs FS 4, RS 2-3, Kn 2-3 2000 revs FS 4 3/4

Change

Staining

Change

Staining

4

4

4/5

4/5

4 4

4

5

-

P

F P P P F

P

to perspiration, acid 4 4 EN-ISO 105 E04 to perspiration, alkaline 4 4 4/5 P to rubbing , dry 4 EN-ISO 105 X12 to rubbing , wet 3-4 P 3/4 towater EN-ISO 105 E01 4 4 2.5 OTHER CHARACTERISTICS ! Other ! Other tests are not considered * For fabrics containing elastane special consultation is recommended. * Weft knits: -6% / +2% ** Garments with contrast colours: colour fastness to washing, perspiration and water: staining 4-5.

Colour fastness to rubbing of corduroy, denim and heavy shades: dry 3, wet 2. ! ! ! ! !

European TCG Recommendations Proposal October 2009.

74

5

The selling of the WE fashion multicolour short sleeve polo requires the materials to be at a high quality standard.

Testing is carried out to ensure consistent product quality to ensure customer satisfaction and cost savings.

Technological Testing together with use and aftercare characteristics give an insight into the performance properties of clothing, such as durability, suitability, and aftercare requirements. Standard test methods include ASTM, BS, ISO and AATCC The tests carried out were, colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering. (ISO 105 C06) This method is intended for determining the resistance of colour of textiles to domestic laundering procedures.

MARTINDALE TESTER (ISO 12947-2) This method tests the determination of abrasion resistance of fabrics.

Dimensional change in domestic washing and drying. (ISO 5077 / 6330) This method is determining the dimensional change of fabrics and garments when subjected to an appropriate combination of specified washing and drying procedures.

The COLOUR FASTNESS TO RUBBING (ISO 105-X12) method intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds to rubbing off and staining other materials.

Colour fastness to hot pressing (ISO 105-X11)This method for determining the resistance of colour of textiles to ironing and to processing on hot cylinders.

The Wrinkle Recovery Tester (ISO 9867) This method is used to determine the appearance of textile fabrics after induced wrinkling.

Other tests we would also recommend doing would be, Colour fastness to hot pressing (ISO 105-X11)This method for determining the resistance of colour of textiles to ironing and to processing on hot cylinders.

The Wrinkle Recovery Tester (ISO 9867) This method is used to determine the appearance of textile fabrics after induced wrinkling. Due to the nature of the garment, wrinkling is important to analyse and therefore also ironing and it’s effects on the fabrics.

Using the European TCG SECTION 2.8: CHARACTERISTICS CONCERNING THE FABRIC AND THE GARMENT: SHIRTS, DRESSES AND BLOUSES, the results of the tests also follow the same patterns of recommendations with passing all but the abrasion resistance. To improve the mechanical and physical properties of the fabric, finishes such as RUCOSTAR EEE6 which has some special benefits like, it confers resistance to aqueous and oily soilings, highly resistant to washing, better abrasion resistance than other finishes (Rahman 2019). The easy-care finish would be recommended, as once treated, the fabrics become more resistant to wrinkling, dry faster however due to strength being reduced this finish should not be used until abrasion resistance is improved.

The only edits to the current care label will be on the washing icon, from the test report, the abrasion resistance martindale breakdown failed greatly, for this reason recommend is a gentle wash with a slower spin to prolong the life of the garment, however if abrasion resting finishes are added, this may change and washing instructions will include prolonging the finish’s longevity on the garment. Passing of dimension stability to laundry could suggest tumble drying is possible, however to prolong the garments life through reducing breakdown through avoiding unnecessary abrasive damage through tumble drying.

DUTCH MERINO - MINISTRY OF KNITS 100% superfine Dutch Marino wool FABRIC CARD Nm 2/16 glue or double -sided tape (only here )

swatch 10 x 15 cm warp

weft

Technical fabric description: Construction: Construction specific: Colouration (not colour): Effect: Coating: Composition: Weight g/m² (or oz/yd²): Visible finish(es):

plain weave / twill weave / satin / weft knit/ warp knit … Single jersey piece dyed / yarn dyed / fibre dyed / full printed /upon printed / overprinted / piece or yarn or fibre bleached / natural … yes / no cellulose / protein / synthetic specify: CO/ LI/ CV/ WO/ SE /CA or PA/ PAN or PES (if possible)/ EL … 135g/m2 …

Additional fabric description: Fabric trade name: … Single Jersey Explain fabric name: …

Originally produced in the jersey Channel Islands where the wool was sourced Source of fabric name: …

Portrait of the Channel Islands, Lemprière, London, 1970, ISBN 0-7091-1541-5 Personal creative description of visual, haptic, sensorial attributes of your fabric swatch: … Stretch, rough, hairy, warm, smells agricultural, bulky warm, loose knit, natural organge colour.

Relevant (chem.) finish: … Anti-felting, moth proofing

Sustainability: Elaborate on environmental aspects: … Organic wool is biodegradable material for a span of 1-5 years based on the techniques used when tring to convert the wool into fibres. Animal Welfare, Toxic chemicals are often used for maintaining the quality of the fabric.

Stick a sample of each yarn, in each colour, both warp and weft (if present) here: Fancy yarn included y/n: If yes, fancy yarn name: Page:

7

…

Owner:

Date:

Date

swatch 2 x 5 cm

RAW MATERIAL CARD

weft knitted

/

warp knitted

/

woven

/

nonwoven & extra

sooooooo

Numbers of the construction: not mandatory Weight in g/m² (for denims also in oz/yd²): Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: - slow sputtering flame - self extinghuishing when out of flame smells like - burning hair - friable cinder Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

WO

gives material:

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

gives material:

gives material: gives material:

Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

gives material:

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

Page: 8

gives material:

gives material: gives material: Owner: Revision date:

MINISTRY OF KNITS 100% superfine Dutch Marino wool Nm 2/16 100% superfine Dutch Marino wool Flatbed 66 NDLS 110 ROWS

SECTION 2.5: CHARACTERISTICS CONCERNING THE FABRIC AND THE GARMENT: KNITWEAR

CHARACTERISTICS

STANDARD

STANDARD REQUIREMENT EUROPEAN TCG RECOMMENDATION

SUPPLIER’S VALUES OR TEST RESULTS

Pass Fail

2.1 CARE LABELLING Washing Bleaching Drying

EN-ISO 3758

Ironing Dry cleaning 2.2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY ! Steaming (pressing machine) ! Fusing (fusing press) ! Washing / drying (as indicated by the care label)* ! Dry cleaning 2.3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES ! Bursting strength ! Abrasion resistance (9kPa) ! Pilling

2.4 COLOUR FASTNESS ** !

to washing

! !

to dry cleaning to ironing

!

to light, weathering

5690qwet I vbn p[]a dffghj klzx

1 y c o \

-

s

Length

Width

Length

Width

DIN 53894 P2

-3,0%

-3,0%

%

%

DIN 54311 ISO 5077 EN-ISO 6330 EN-ISO 3175

-3,0%

-3,0%

%

%

-6%/+2%

-6%/+2%

%

%

-2,5%

-2,5%

%

%

EN-ISO 13938-2 EN-ISO 12947-2 EN-ISO 12945-2

ISO 105 A01-A03 EN-ISO 105 C06, C08,C09 EN-ISO 105 D01 EN-ISO 105 X11 EN-ISO 105 B02, B04

200 kPa, (7,3 cm²) 8.000 revs

125 revs: 3-4 500 revs: 3 1000 revs: 2-3 Change Staining 4

4

4 4

4

5

-

revs

Pass Pass Pass

4 4 3

Change

Staining

4/5 to perspiration, acid 4 4 Pass 4/5 EN-ISO 105 E04 to perspiration, alkaline 4 4 5 Pass 4/5 to rubbing , dry 4 EN-ISO 105 X12 to rubbing , wet 3-4 to water EN-ISO 105 E01 4 4 2.5 OTHER CHARACTERISTICS ! Other ! Other tests are not considered * For fabrics containing elastane special consultation is recommended. ** Garments with contrast colours: colour fastness to washing, perspiration and water: staining 4-5.

Colour fastness to rubbing of heavy shades: dry 3, wet 2. ! ! ! ! !

European TCG Recommendations Proposal October 2009.

71

10

Implementing merino wool as a top garment in the new TRLD extension for the brand Weekday requires the fabric to be at a high quality standard. For the preliminary tests a knitted single jersey swatch was used which will further be developed into the final fabric choice dependent on further testing. Due to the high price associated with buying a top item from the collection, it is imperative that the quality is upheld to exceed the European TCS requirements.

During the testing phases the PILLING NU-MARTINDALE TEST (ISO 12945-2) was carried out, this method tests the resistance against pilling of woven and knitted fabrics.

The requirement set was less than 2-3 change at 1000 revolutions, due to the change being at worst 3 at 1000 revolutions the fabric passed to the standard wanted.

COLOUR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION (ISO 105 E04) Was also studied, this method for determining the resistance of the colour of all kinds and in all forms to the action of human perspiration. The requirement set was less than 4 change for both alkali and acid, due to the change being at worst 4/5 fabric passed to the standard wanted.

The knitted swatch passed all tests to the European TCG recommendations knitwear category, for this reason only minor finishes and or changes are recommended. For this focusing on finished with low environmental impacts is imperative when trying to improve quality.

Using plasma technology for foam finishing is an innovative solution for developing fabrics with stain repellant, hydrophobic, and moisture management properties.

(Environmentaljournal.org) The use of Bio-polishing is also advised, this biological procedure involves the action of cellulase on the fabric’s surface. The effect is a smooth cleaner surface is obtained, providing a cooler soft feel. The fabric also tends to pill less and can be used on both knitted and woven materials making it a key finish for the merino garments. (Sustainability in the Textile and Apparel Industries: Sustainable Textiles, Clothing Design and Repurposing by Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu, Miguel Angel Gardetti) Creating a care label for the current untreated swatch, advice is given for hand washing or machine-wash on gentle cycle in warm or cool water. Use mild soap, no bleach or fabric softener. Do not tumble dry, dry flat. Iron on medium or wool setting using steam setting.

Implementing merino wool as a top garment in the new TRLD extension for the brand Weekday requires the fabric to be at a high quality standard. For the preliminary tests a knitted single jersey swatch was used which will further be developed into the final fabric choice dependent on further testing. Due to the high price associated with buying a top item from the collection, it is imperative that the quality is upheld to exceed the European TCS requirements.

To compare different effect of coloration of the Marino wool it is important to look at the difference in performance with the use of different dyes from the same supplier.

During the testing phases the PILLING NU-MARTINDALE TEST (ISO 12945-2) was carried out, this method tests the resistance against pilling of woven and knitted fabrics.

The requirement set was less than 2-3 change at 1000 revolutions, due to the change being at worst 3 at 1000 revolutions the fabric passed to the standard wanted. This was the same across both colourations of merino wool.

COLOUR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION (ISO 105 E04) Was also studied, this method for determining the resistance of the colour of all kinds and in all forms to the action of human perspiration. The requirement set was less than 4 change and staining for both alkali and acid, due to the change and staining being at worst 4/5 fabric passed to the standard wanted. This was the same across both merino wool indicting the colorfastness was not effected with a darker coloured dye.

The both the knitted swatches passed all tests to the European TCG recommendations knitwear category with similar results, for this reason only minor finishes and or changes are recommended. For this focusing on finished with low environmental impacts is imperative when trying to improve quality. With the information now indicating darker coloured merino wool can have the same level of colourfastness, the implementation of this fibre can confidently be added to the TRLD collection. Further on in this report a weave option for this fibre is shown and advice for further testing is given.

FABRIC CARD glue or double -sided tape (only here )

swatch 10 x 15 cm warp

weft

Technical fabric description: Construction: Construction specific: Colouration (not colour): Effect: Coating: Composition: Weight g/m² (or oz/yd²): Visible finish(es):

plain weave / twill weave / satin / weft knit/ warp knit … Satin embossed piece dyed / yarn dyed / fibre dyed / full printed /upon printed / overprinted / piece or yarn or fibre bleached / natural … yes / no cellulose / protein / synthetic specify: CO/ LI/ CV/ WO/ SE /CA or PA/ PAN or PES (if possible)/ EL … 127g/m2 … Embossed

Additional fabric description: Fabric trade name: … Purple Satin Moon and Stars embossed fabric The weave Explain fabric name: … originated in the Chinese port city of Quanzhou, which was called Zaitun in medieval Arabic Source of fabric name: … https://www.masterclass.com/articles/what-is-satin-fabric-a-guide-to-the-types-characteristics-and-uses-for-satin Personal creative description of visual, haptic, sensorial attributes of your fabric swatch: Shiny, light, embossed pattern with rougher areas with the celestial shapes, smooth, vivid colour, …

Relevant (chem.) finish:

… Antistatic

Sustainability: Elaborate on environmental aspects:

The origin of this fabric is polymers which derives from petroleum. The fabric is not degradable, there are options to recycle. Several … chemicals and huge amount of water is used for the dying of the fabric, large amounts energy.

Stick a sample of each yarn, in each colour, both warp and weft (if present) here: Fancy yarn included y/n: If yes, fancy yarn name: Page:

13

…

Owner:

Date:

Date

swatch 2 x 5 cm

RAW MATERIAL CARD

weft knitted

/

warp knitted

/

woven

/

nonwoven & extra

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Numbers of the construction: not mandatory 30 - 04 01 - 01 - 02 Weight in g/m² (for denims also in oz/yd²): 127 g/m2 Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: - melts - burning quickly - sooty (black) flame sets hard (bead) Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

PAN or PES

gives material:

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold Sulphuric acid did /did not dissolve in cold nitric acid

gives material:

gives material: PES gives material:

Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: melts - burning quickly - sooty (black) flame sets hard (bead) Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

PAN or PES

gives material:

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold Sulphuric acid did /did not dissolve in cold nitric acid

Page:

14

gives material:

gives material: gives material: PES Owner: Revision date:

SECTION 2.8: CHARACTERISTICS CONCERNING THE FABRIC AND THE GARMENT: SHIRTS, DRESSES AND BLOUSES

CHARACTERISTICS

STANDARD

STANDARD REQUIREMENT EUROPEAN TCG RECOMMENDATION

SUPPLIER’S VALUES OR TEST RESULTS

Pass Fail

2.1 CARE LABELLING Washing Bleaching Drying

EN-ISO 3758

Ironing Dry cleaning 2.2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY ! Steaming (pressing machine) ! Fusing (fusing press) ! Washing / drying (as indicated by the care label)* ! Dry cleaning 2.3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES ! Breaking strength and Elongation in % ! Breaking strength (Grab) ! Elasticity ! Tear strength ! Seam slippage: mm at daN ! Seam slippage: daN at mm !

Abrasion resistance (9kPa)

Pilling FS= Flat surface RS= Raised surface Kn= Knitwear !

2.4 COLOUR FASTNESS ** !

to washing

! !

to dry cleaning to ironing

!

to light, weathering

5690qwert I vbn p[]a dffghj klzx

30 1

y c o s

Length

Width

Length

Width

DIN 53894 P2

+/-1,0%

-2,0%

%

%

DIN 54311 ISO 5077 EN-ISO 6330 EN-ISO 3175

-1,5%

-1,5%

%

%

-2,0%

-2,0%

0,2%

-1,1%

-1,5%

-1,5%

%

%

Full fit

Tight fit

18 daN 12,5-40 12 daN 3% 0,8 daN 4 at 11 6 at 3

22 daN 12,5-55 15 daN 3% 1,0 daN 4 at 12 6 at 2

daN

daN

daN

daN

daN 4 at …..

6 at …..

daN 4 at …..

6 at …..

EN-ISO 13934-1 EN-ISO 13934-2 EN 14704-1 EN-ISO 13937-1 EN-ISO 13936-1 EN-ISO 13936-2 EN-ISO 12947-2 EN-ISO 12945-2

EN-ISO 105 A01A03 EN-ISO 105 C06, C08,C09 EN-ISO 105 D01 EN-ISO 105 X11 EN-ISO 105 B02, B04

revs

12.000 revs

125 revs 500 revs 1000 revs 2000 revs

Pass

FS 4, RS 3-4, Kn 3-4 FS 4, RS 3, Kn 3 FS 4, RS 2-3, Kn 2-3 FS 4

Change

Staining

Change

4

4

4

4 4

4

At 150°C 4/5 At 200°C 2/3

5

-

4/5 4/5

Pass Pass

Staining

3/4 At 150°C 4/5 At 200°C 2/3

Fail Pass at 150 Fail at 200

to perspiration, acid 4 4 EN-ISO 105 E04 to perspiration, alkaline 4 4 Pass 45 5 to rubbing , dry 4 EN-ISO 105 X12 4 4 Pass to rubbing , wet 3-4 4/5 towater EN-ISO 105 E01 4 4 2.5 OTHER CHARACTERISTICS 6 Pass Crease recovery ISO 9867 ! Other 5 NR7 NR7 ! Other tests are not considered * For fabrics containing elastane special consultation is recommended. * Weft knits: -6% / +2% ** Garments with contrast colours: colour fastness to washing, perspiration and water: staining 4-5.

Colour fastness to rubbing of corduroy, denim and heavy shades: dry 3, wet 2. ! ! ! ! !

European TCG Recommendations Proposal October 2009.

74

Implementing polyester satin as a possible fabric in the new TRLD extension for the brand Weekday requires the fabric to be at a high quality standard. For the preliminary tests a swatch was used which will further be developed into the final fabric choice dependent on further testing. Due to the quality standard and long wearing garments associated with the collection, it is imperative that the quality is upheld to exceed the European TCS requirements.

MARTINDALE TESTER (ISO 12947-2) This method tests the determination of abrasion resistance of fabrics.

The requirement set was less than 4 due to the flat surface, due to the result being at lowest 4/5 the fabric passed this standard The COLOUR FASTNESS TO RUBBING (ISO 105-X12) method intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds to rubbing off and staining other materials.

Dimensional change in domestic washing and drying. (ISO 5077 / 6330) This method is determining the dimensional change of fabrics and garments when subjected to an appropriate combination of specified washing and drying procedures. The requirement set was less than -2% change, due to the change being at highest 1,1% the fabric passed this standard.

Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering. (ISO 105 C06) This method is intended for determining the resistance of colour of textiles to domestic laundering procedures. The requirement set was less than 4, due to the result being 3/4 for staining the fabric failed this standard.

Colour fastness to hot pressing (ISO 105-X11)This method for determining the resistance of colour of textiles to ironing and to processing on hot cylinders. The requirement set was less than 4, at 150°C the result was 4/5 indicating the fabric passed, however at 200°C results were 2/3 meaning the fabric failed this standard.

The Wrinkle Recovery Tester (ISO 9867) This method is used to determine the appearance of textile fabrics after induced wrinkling. The requirement set was less than 6, due to the result being at lowest 7 the fabric passed this standard The swatch passed some of the tests to the European TCG recommendations SHIRTS, DRESSES AND BLOUSES, failed areas were, colourfastness both to washing and ironing. For this reason, major finishes and or changes are recommended. Along side this colourfastness to rubbing wet indicated issues with durability, damage was found indicating further testing is required, for this the recommendation of the test Abrasion resistance (EN-ISO 12945-2) to further explore the durability of the fabric. Testing outside the ETCG requirements was also done for crease recovery, as we decided importance for this quality in the shirts for the extension was high.

To improve on colourfastness, colour at alternatives should be looked as as well as finishes. In terms of sustainability, looking at Colorifix Bacteria-Based Dyes way be an option for this fabric. Potential savings of 50 and 30 percent respectively for water and energy can be expected. Better reductive agents to remove and destroy the unfixed or weakly fixed disperse dyestuffs on the fibre surface are needed, and if further tests with other reductive agents yield the same results, this fabric will be deemed as inadequate for use in the TRLD collection.

The current fabric performs somewhat well at lower temperatures so if insistence on the current selection is taken, advice for the care label will be; machine-wash on gentle cycle in cool water, with the use of mild soap, do not iron only lightly steam. However, advice is strongly given to change dyestuff and further test, without better results this fabric should be avoided as it does not uphold to the quality expected from Weekday.

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A comparison of different fabrics each tested to the European TCG SECTION 2.8: CHARACTERISTICS CONCERNING THE FABRIC AND THE GARMENT: SHIRTS, DRESSES AND BLOUSES, requirement, each fabric underwent testing under the same conditions, only weight during the wrinkle recovery was adjusted based on fabric weight making the results comparable on which fabric are most suitable for a shirt.

For each of the fabrics the following tests were taken: MARTINDALE TESTER (ISO 12947-2) This method tests the determination of abrasion resistance of fabrics.

The COLOUR FASTNESS TO RUBBING (ISO 105-X12) method intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds to rubbing off and staining other materials.

Dimensional change in domestic washing and drying. (ISO 5077 / 6330) This method is determining the dimensional change of fabrics and garments when subjected to an appropriate combination of specified washing and drying procedures.

Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering. (ISO 105 C06) This method is intended for determining the resistance of colour of textiles to domestic laundering procedures.

Colour fastness to hot pressing (ISO 105-X11)This method for determining the resistance of colour of textiles to ironing and to processing on hot cylinders.

The Wrinkle Recovery Tester (ISO 9867) This method is used to determine the appearance of textile fabrics after induced wrinkling.

The results found that each fabric passed and failed some of the requirements each different to each other indicating certain results should be prioritised in choosing a fabric, this could be done either with importance of a certain quality or by which can be easily improved on by finishes. Overall, the purple satin passed 5 of the tests, the blue twill passed 4 and the purple calico only passed 3. The amount of changes to dyes, finishes other recommendations for the calico are too many and this fabric should be avoided in the use of a shirt, however the other two fabric could still be used with the help finishes and changes to the dyestuff. To improve on colourfastness, colour at alternatives should be looked as as well as finishes. In terms of sustainability, looking at Colorifix Bacteria-Based Dyes way be an option for this fabric. Potential savings of 50 and 30 percent respectively for water and energy can be expected. Better reductive agents to remove and destroy the unfixed or weakly fixed disperse dyestuffs on the fibre surface are needed, and if further tests with other reductive agents yield the same results, this fabric will be deemed as inadequate for use in the TRLD collection.

TRLD FABRIC RESEARCH

Implementing any a possible fabric in the new TRLD extension for the brand Weekday requires the fabric to be at a high quality standard. Due to the quality standard and long wearing garments associated with the collection, it is imperative that the quality is upheld to exceed the European TCS requirements.

Research into the raw materials including sustainable alternatives was conducted and conclusions of possible and likely fabrics to be implemented into the collection was gathered. The final decisions made were: Dutch merino wool melton. Due to the garment using this fabric being a top level garment coat, the European TCG SECTION 2.4: CHARACTERISTICS CONCERNING THE FABRIC AND THE GARMENT: COATS where fabrics should exceed the standard. Tests concerning mechanical and physical properties such as pilling should be extensively tested, along with colourfastness.

Worsted wool suiting. Due to the garments using this fabric covering both jackets and trousers the European TCG SECTION 2.1: CHARACTERISTICS CONCERNING THE FABRIC AND THE GARMENT: TROUSERS AND SHORTS should be used due it having higher requirements than the TSG for jackets only.

Cotton poplin (recycled) Due to the garments using this fabric covering shirts the European TCG SECTION 2.8: CHARACTERISTICS CONCERNING THE FABRIC AND THE GARMENT: SHIRTS, DRESSES AND BLOUSES should be used.

Polyester high twist suiting weight (recycled) - no physical swatch currently. Due to the garments using this fabric covering both jackets and trousers the European TCG SECTION 2.3: CHARACTERISTICS CONCERNING THE FABRIC AND THE GARMENT: JACKETS due to MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES of the basic suit lower values are applicable for the trousers.

Denim (recycled) Due to the garments using this fabric covering both jackets and trousers the European TCG SECTION 2.1: CHARACTERISTICS CONCERNING THE FABRIC AND THE GARMENT: TROUSERS AND SHORTS should be used due it having higher requirements than the TSG for jackets only.

For each of the fabrics the following tests at minimum should be taken: MARTINDALE TESTER (ISO 12947-2) This method tests the determination of abrasion resistance of fabrics.

The COLOUR FASTNESS TO RUBBING (ISO 105-X12) method intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds to rubbing off and staining other materials.

Dimensional change in domestic washing and drying. (ISO 5077 / 6330) This method is determining the dimensional change of fabrics and garments when subjected to an appropriate combination of specified washing and drying procedures.

Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering. (ISO 105 C06) This method is intended for determining the resistance of colour of textiles to domestic laundering procedures.

Colour fastness to hot pressing (ISO 105-X11)This method for determining the resistance of colour of textiles to ironing and to processing on hot cylinders.

The Wrinkle Recovery Tester (ISO 9867) This method is used to determine the appearance of textile fabrics after induced wrinkling.

Following the results of these tests, final decisions for fabric choices can be made along with indicating relevant finishes applicable for each fabric. Following further testing of finished fabrics a care label can be made giving Weekday customers the advice for elongating the life of their garments with care instructions.

FABRIC CARD glue or double -sided tape (only here )

swatch 10 x 15 cm warp

weft

Technical fabric description: Construction: Construction specific: Colouration (not colour): Effect: Coating: Composition: Weight g/m² (or oz/yd²): Visible finish(es):

plain weave / twill weave / satin / weft knit/ warp knit …

Tight right hand twill piece dyed / yarn dyed / fibre dyed / full printed /upon printed / overprinted / piece or yarn or fibre bleached / natural … yes / no cellulose / protein / synthetic specify: CO/ LI/ CV/ WO/ SE /CA or PA/ PAN or PES (if possible)/ EL …

595g/m2 … Heavily brushed

Additional fabric description: Fabric trade name: …

Wool melton Explain fabric name: … developed in the Leicestershire town of Melton Mowbray Source of fabric name: … "Fabric Glossary - Cloak & Dagger Creations". Cloakmaker.com Personal creative description of visual, haptic, sensorial attributes of your fabric swatch: … Heavy weight, thick, tightly woven, brushed, hairy felt-like appearance hiding the visibility of the weave pattern Relevant (chem.) finish: … Hydrophobic finish

Sustainability: Elaborate on environmental aspects: Organic wool is biodegradable material for a span of 1-5 years based on the techniques used when tring to convert the …wool into fibres. Animal Welfare, Toxic chemicals are often used for maintaining the quality of the fabric.

Stick a sample of each yarn, in each colour, both warp and weft (if present) here: Fancy yarn included y/n: If yes, fancy yarn name: Page:

21

…

Owner:

Date:

Date

swatch 2 x 5 cm

RAW MATERIAL CARD

weft knitted

/

warp knitted

/

woven

/

nonwoven & extra

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Numbers of the construction: not mandatory Weight in g/m² (for denims also in oz/yd²): 595g/m2 Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: - slow sputtering flame self extinghuishing when out of flame smells like burning hair friable cinder Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

gives material:

gives material:

WO

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

gives material: gives material:

Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: slow sputtering flame - self extinghuishing when out of flame smells like burning hair - friable cinder Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

gives material:

gives material:

WO Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

Page:

gives material: gives material:

22

Owner: Revision date:

FABRIC CARD glue or double -sided tape (only here )

swatch 10 x 15 cm warp

weft

Technical fabric description: Construction: Construction specific: Colouration (not colour): Effect: Coating: Composition: Weight g/m² (or oz/yd²): Visible finish(es):

plain weave / twill weave / satin / weft knit/ warp knit … Left hand 3*1 piece dyed / yarn dyed / fibre dyed / full printed /upon printed / overprinted / piece or yarn or fibre bleached / natural … yes / no cellulose / protein / synthetic specify: CO/ LI/ CV/ WO/ SE /CA or PA/ PAN or PES (if possible)/ EL … 220g/m2 …

Additional fabric description: Fabric trade name: … Worsted suiting weight Explain fabric name: …Named after Worstead village in Norfolk Source of fabric name: … Worstead heritage trail (2012) Personal creative description of visual, haptic, sensorial attributes of your fabric swatch: Fine weight, tightly woven, stable smooth fabric, very visible defined construction, neutral khaki green colour …

Relevant (chem.) finish: … Anti-felting, moth proofing

Sustainability: Elaborate on environmental aspects: Organic wool is biodegradable material for a span of 1-5 years based on the techniques used when tring to convert the …wool into fibres. Animal Welfare, Toxic chemicals are often used for maintaining the quality of the fabric.

Stick a sample of each yarn, in each colour, both warp and weft (if present) here: Fancy yarn included y/n: If yes, fancy yarn name: Page:

23

…

Owner:

Date:

Date

swatch 2 x 5 cm

RAW MATERIAL CARD

weft knitted

/

warp knitted

/

woven

/

nonwoven & extra

-

\

I -

I

Numbers of the construction: not mandatory Weight in g/m² (for denims also in oz/yd²): Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: - slow sputtering flame - self extinghuishing when out of flame smells like burning - hair - friable cinder Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

WO

gives material:

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

gives material:

gives material: gives material:

Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: slow sputtering flame self extinghuishing when out of flame smells like burning hair friable cinder Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

gives material:

gives material:

WO

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

Page:

gives material: gives material:

24

Owner: Revision date:

FABRIC CARD glue or double -sided tape (only here )

swatch 10 x 15 cm warp

weft

Technical fabric description: Construction: Construction specific: Colouration (not colour): Effect: Coating: Composition: Weight g/m² (or oz/yd²): Visible finish(es):

plain weave / twill weave / satin / weft knit/ warp knit …

Left hand twill piece dyed / yarn dyed / fibre dyed / full printed /upon printed / overprinted / piece or yarn or fibre bleached / natural … yes / no cellulose / protein / synthetic specify: CO/ LI/ CV/ WO/ SE /CA or PA/ PAN or PES (if possible)/ EL … 260g/m2 …

Additional fabric description: Fabric trade name: … denim Explain fabric name: … a twill fabric called “Serge de Nîmes”, first woven in Nîmes, France. from Source of fabric name: … Hawthorn, history of denim Personal creative description of visual, haptic, sensorial attributes of your fabric swatch: …

Thick, durable, dull, light textured feel, Relevant (chem.) finish: … Easy-care, ozone, laser

Sustainability: Elaborate on environmental aspects: toxic chemicals, pesticides, bad working conditions for factory workers, child labour, monoculture and deforestation …

Stick a sample of each yarn, in each colour, both warp and weft (if present) here: Fancy yarn included y/n: If yes, fancy yarn name: Page:

26

…

Owner:

Date:

Date

swatch 2 x 5 cm

RAW MATERIAL CARD

weft knitted

/

warp knitted

/

woven

/

nonwoven & extra

÷7÷¥÷

:¥E¥É÷T oOO

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¥32

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Numbers of the construction: not mandatory Weight in g/m² (for denims also in oz/yd²): 260g/m2 Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: burning quickly afterglowing smells like burning paper - soft pale grey ashes Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

gives material:

gives material:

CO

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

gives material: gives material:

Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: - burning quickly afterglowing smells like burning paper soft pale grey ashes Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

gives material:

gives material:

CO

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

Page: 27

gives material: gives material: Owner: Revision date:

FABRIC CARD glue or double -sided tape (only here )

swatch 10 x 15 cm warp

weft

Technical fabric description: Construction: Construction specific: Colouration (not colour): Effect: Coating: Composition: Weight g/m² (or oz/yd²): Visible finish(es):

plain weave / twill weave / satin / weft knit/ warp knit …

Right hand twill piece dyed / yarn dyed / fibre dyed / full printed /upon printed / overprinted / piece or yarn or fibre bleached / natural … yes / no cellulose / protein / synthetic specify: CO/ LI/ CV/ WO/ SE /CA or PA/ PAN or PES (if possible)/ EL … 224.2g/m2 … Washed

Additional fabric description: Fabric trade name: … denim Explain fabric name: … a twill fabric called “Serge de Nîmes”, first woven in Nîmes, France. from Source of fabric name: … Hawthorn, history of denim Personal creative description of visual, haptic, sensorial attributes of your fabric swatch: …

Thick, durable, dull, light textured feel Relevant (chem.) finish: … Easy-care

Sustainability: Elaborate on environmental aspects: toxic chemicals, pesticides, bad working conditions for factory workers, child labour, monoculture and deforestation …

Stick a sample of each yarn, in each colour, both warp and weft (if present) here: Fancy yarn included y/n: If yes, fancy yarn name: Page:

29

…

Owner:

Date:

Date

swatch 2 x 5 cm

RAW MATERIAL CARD

weft knitted

/

warp knitted

/

woven

/

nonwoven & extra

÷7÷¥÷

:¥E¥É÷T oOO

o oo

-O

¥32

•• •

oo

Cobo

d Vol

<§°¥

00

oo 00 oo

Numbers of the construction: not mandatory 224.2 Weight in g/m² (for denims also in oz/yd²): Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: burning quickly afterglowing smells like burning paper - soft pale grey ashes Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

CO

gives material:

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

gives material:

gives material: gives material:

Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: - burning quickly afterglowing - smells like burning paper - soft pale grey ashes Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

CO

gives material:

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

Page: 30

gives material:

gives material: gives material: Owner: Revision date:

FABRIC CARD glue or double -sided tape (only here )

swatch 10 x 15 cm warp

weft

Technical fabric description: Construction: Construction specific: Colouration (not colour): Effect: Coating: Composition: Weight g/m² (or oz/yd²): Visible finish(es):

plain weave / twill weave / satin / weft knit/ warp knit … Weft rib piece dyed / yarn dyed / fibre dyed / full printed /upon printed / overprinted / piece or yarn or fibre bleached / natural … yes / no cellulose / protein / synthetic specify: CO/ LI/ CV/ WO/ SE /CA or Bamboo PA/ PAN or PES (if possible)/ EL … 128g/m3 …

Additional fabric description: Fabric trade name: … Bamboo poplin Explain fabric name: … from papelino, a fabric made at Avignon, France Source of fabric name: … Boucoiran, Louis (1875).

Personal creative description of visual, haptic, sensorial attributes of your fabric swatch: …Light weight, smooth light sheen, mildly opaque, crispy, natural smell, white colour Relevant (chem.) finish: …Easy-care

Sustainability: Elaborate on environmental aspects:

renewable and biodegradable resource low maintenance crop but uses chemical retting, which is the extraction … process of bamboo fibers from stems, produce wastewater that can harm aquatic ecosystems.

Stick a sample of each yarn, in each colour, both warp and weft (if present) here: Fancy yarn included y/n: If yes, fancy yarn name: Page:

…

Owner:

Date:

Date

swatch 2 x 5 cm

RAW MATERIAL CARD

weft knitted

/

warp knitted

/

woven

/

nonwoven & extra

-

I

Numbers of the construction: not mandatory 10 01 01 02 00 128 Weight in g/m² (for denims also in oz/yd²): Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: burning quickly afterglowing - smells like burning paper soft - pale grey ashes Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

gives material:

gives material:

Bamboo CV

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

gives material: gives material:

Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: - burning quickly afterglowing - smells like burning paper soft - pale grey ashes Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

gives material:

gives material:

Bamboo CV Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

Page:

gives material: gives material: Owner: Revision date:

FABRIC CARD glue or double -sided tape (only here )

swatch 10 x 15 cm warp

weft

Technical fabric description: Construction: Construction specific: Colouration (not colour): Effect: Coating: Composition: Weight g/m² (or oz/yd²): Visible finish(es):

plain weave / twill weave / satin / weft knit/ warp knit … Weft rib piece dyed / yarn dyed / fibre dyed / full printed /upon printed / overprinted / piece or yarn or fibre bleached / natural … yes / no cellulose / protein / synthetic specify: CO/ LI/ CV/ WO/ SE /CA or PA/ PAN or PES (if possible)/ EL … 122g/m2 …

Additional fabric description: Fabric trade name: … Cotton poplin Explain fabric name: …from papelino, a fabric made at Avignon, France Source of fabric name: … Boucoiran, Louis (1875).

Personal creative description of visual, haptic, sensorial attributes of your fabric swatch: …

Light weight, smooth light sheen, mildly opaque, crispy, natural smell, white colour Relevant (chem.) finish: … Easy-care

Sustainability: Elaborate on environmental aspects: toxic chemicals, pesticides, bad working conditions for factory workers, child labour, monoculture and deforestation …

Stick a sample of each yarn, in each colour, both warp and weft (if present) here: Fancy yarn included y/n: If yes, fancy yarn name: Page:

…

Owner:

Date:

Date

swatch 2 x 5 cm

RAW MATERIAL CARD

weft knitted

/

warp knitted

/

woven

/

nonwoven & extra

-

I

Numbers of the construction: not mandatory Weight in g/m² (for denims also in oz/yd²):

10 01 01 02 00 122

Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: B - rapid, bright, afterglow S - burning paper R - pale grey powder Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

CO

gives material:

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

gives material:

gives material: gives material:

Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: B - rapid, bright, afterglow - S - burning paper - R - pale grey powder Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

CO

gives material:

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold did /did not dissolve in cold

Page:

gives material:

gives material: gives material: Owner: Revision date:

FABRIC CARD glue or double -sided tape (only here )

swatch 10 x 15 cm warp

weft

Technical fabric description: Construction: Construction specific: Colouration (not colour): Effect: Coating: Composition: Weight g/m² (or oz/yd²): Visible finish(es):

plain weave / twill weave / satin / weft knit/ warp knit … Weft rib piece dyed / yarn dyed / fibre dyed / full printed /upon printed / overprinted / piece or yarn or fibre bleached / natural … yes / no cellulose / protein / synthetic specify: CO/ LI/ CV/ WO/ SE /CA or PA/ PAN or PES (if possible)/ EL … 126 …

Additional fabric description: Fabric trade name: … Polyester poplin Explain fabric name: … from papelino, a fabric made at Avignon, France Source of fabric name: … Boucoiran, Louis (1875).

Personal creative description of visual, haptic, sensorial attributes of your fabric swatch: …

Light weight, smooth light sheen, mildly opaque, crispy, synthetic smell, white colour Relevant (chem.) finish: … Easy-care

Sustainability: Elaborate on environmental aspects: The origin of this fabric is polymers which derives from petroleum. The fabric is not degradable, there are options to recycle. Several … chemicals and huge amount of water is used for the dying of the fabric, large amounts energy.

Stick a sample of each yarn, in each colour, both warp and weft (if present) here: Fancy yarn included y/n: If yes, fancy yarn name: Page:

…

Owner:

Date:

Date

swatch 2 x 5 cm

RAW MATERIAL CARD

weft knitted

/

warp knitted

/

woven

/

nonwoven & extra

-

I

Numbers of the construction: not mandatory Weight in g/m² (for denims also in oz/yd²):

10 01 01 02 00

Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: - melts - burning quickly sooty (black) flame sets hard (bead) Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

gives material:

gives material:

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold Sulphuric acid did /did not dissolve in cold nitric acid

gives material: gives material:

PES or PAN PES

Specify examined yarn: warp / weft / knit or variation Yarn construction: z- or s-folded, z- or s-twisted fibre yarn/ filament yarn/ mono- or multifilament Burning test: - melts - burning quickly - sooty (black) flame sets hard (bead) Microscopy - longitudinal view: material 1 material 2 material 3

gives material:

gives material:

gives material:

Chemical analysis (synthetic material): did /did not dissolve in cold Sulphuric acid did /did not dissolve in cold nitric acid

gives material: gives material:

PES or PAN

Page:

Owner: Revision date:

PES

APPENDIX

Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute

TEXTILES LABORATORY COLOUR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION 1. Raw material of the fabric 2. Construction of the fabric 3. Oven temperature in ⁰C 4. Oven test time in hours

WO Single knit jersey 40°C 4 hours

5. Number of the greyscale for alkaline changing

4/5

6. Number of the greyscale for acid changing

4/5

7. Material multifibre strip

ISO 105 E04

CA

CO

PA

PES

PAN

WO

8. Number of the greyscale for alkaline staining

5

5

5

5

5

5

9. Number of the greyscale for acid staining

5

4/5

4/5

4/5

5

4/5

SWATCHES Alkaline treated

Original

MULTIFIBRE STRIPS Acid treated

Alkaline treated

Original

Acid treated

General remark:

Little no no colour change across alkaline and acid, no staining with alkaline and little to no staining with acid. Overall the colourants are very colourfast with minimal advice or changes needed

Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute

TEXTILES LABORATORY MARTINDALE PILLING TEST ISO 12945-2

jersey knit

Name of the fabric Raw material in the warp Raw material in the weft Construction of the fabric Specimen size

Merino WO Single jersey knit 14 cm

Temperature in C Relative humidity in %

21 60

Results compare with the standard pilling scales After 125 turns : After 500 turns : After 1000 turns : After 2000 turns :

Original swatch

4 4 3 2/3 Treated swatch after 2000 turns

Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute

TEXTILES LABORATORY COLOURFASTNESS TO RUBBING ISO 105 X12 - Crockmeter I - dry

II - wet

1. Rubbing cloth

16mm

3. Diameter of the finger in mm 4. Rubbing distance of the finger (2", 3" or 4")

9N

9N

2. Downforce on the finger in Newton (N)

10cm (4”)

16mm 10cm (4”)

10

5. Number of tracks (rubs) YES

10 YES

6. Bleached cotton rubbing cloth 50 x 50 mm (yes/no)

5

7. Number of the greyscale for changing

5

8. Number of the greyscale for staining

Swatch Original

4

Rubbing cloth Dry

4/5

Rubbing cloth Wet

General remark : Little change with colour, however visible damage to fabric

along track on wet fibres transferred to rubbing cloth.

Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute

TEXTILES LABORATORY CREASE RECOVERY

ISO 9867 - Wrinkle recovery tester

1. Raw material of the fabric

PES 2. Construction of the fabric

Satin 3. Temperature in C

21

4. Relative Humidity (RH) in %

60

5. Measuring of the swatch in mm 6. Weight of the material in g/m2

145mm X 280mm CHOOSE 150/200/300

127 g/m2 7. Compression weight in g

1000g 8. Load time

10 min

9. Number of photographic standard immediately after the test

NR7

10. Number of photographic standard 24 hours after the test

NR7

General remark:

High crease resistance, minimal effect immediately with almost all wrinkles falling out after hanging out for 24 hours

Swatch

Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute

TEXTILES LABORATORY COLOUR FASTNESS TO HOT PRESSING/ IRONING ISO 105 1. Raw material of the fabric

PES

2. Construction of the fabric

Satin

3. Material of adjacent fabric 1

PES

4. Material of adjacent fabric 2

CO

5. Adjacent fabrics dry or wet

Dry

6. Test time in seconds

30 seconds

7. Test temperature in C

Test 1 : 150

Test 2 : 200

10.Number of the greyscale for changing

4/5

2/3

11. Number of the greyscale for staining, adjacent fabric 1 12. Number of the greyscale for staining, adjacent fabric 2 TEST 1

4/5

1/2

4/5

3/4

Treated adjacent fabric 1

Treated adjacent fabric 2

Treated swatch 1

X11

TEST 2 Treated adjacent fabric 1

Original swatch

Treated adjacent fabric 2

Treated swatch 2

General remarks:

Drastic difference between the two temperatures, little change at 150°C with extreme fade and staining at 200°C. Treatments or recommendations need to be made due to results.

Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute

TEXTILES LABORATORY DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO LAUNDERING / DRYING ISO 5077 / 6330 1. Raw material of the fabric

PES

2. Construction of the fabric

Satin

3. Washing program / temperature

40 °c

4. Kind of soap (detergent)

ECO VER sensitive 33

5. Drying conditions

LYING

6. Measure direction

Warp 1

Warp 2

7. Measurement before washing in mm

503

8. Measurement after washing in mm

502

9. Shrinkage per direction in % 10. (T) Total surface shrinkage in % Wa x We T= Wa + We - --------------- % 100 11. Tumble drying yes or no If yes follow the same measuring and calculation after drying

Weft 1

Weft 2

499

497

493

500

502

499

0.2%

-1.1%

SKIP

No

We 1 10 ______500_______ 10 Swatch Wa 1

500

500

Wa 2

________________ 10 500 10 We 2

General remark :

Due to the fabric’s light weight and overly smooth surface, errors with measurements is highly likely to have occurred, preventing this by repetition of this test and taking multiple more measurements is advised to further check dimensional stability with requirements below 1.5% shrinkage

Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute

TEXTILES LABORATORY COLOURFASTNESS TO WASHING

ISO 105 - C06

40 /60 C

1. Quantity of soap solution in ml. 4 g/l ECE standard + 1 g/l perborate

150cc

2. Wash temperature in C and time in min.

40°c 30 minutes

3. Number of non-corrodible steel balls

10

4. Adjacent fabric: multifibre strip

CA

CO

PA

PES

PAN

WO

5. Number of greyscale for staining

3

3/4

3

3/4

4/5

5

6. Raw material of the fabric

PES

7. Number of grayscale for changing

4

FABRIC original

FABRIC colour changing

MULTIFIBRE original

MULTIFIBRE colour staining

Particulars:

General remark: Colour staining has high amounts on PA fibres especially however changing is more minimal. Both treatments and and looking at washing at a lower temperature should be taken into account.

Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute

TEXTILES LABORATORY ABRASION RESISTANCE OF FABRICS - ISO 12947 Martindale 1. Raw material of the fabric 2. Construction of the fabric 3. Weight of the material in g/m2 4. Pressure in kPa

turns

Satin 127 g/m2 9kpa - fabric weight less than 150g/m2

5. Abrasive cloth type TEST

PES

Wool SM 25 Changing of the colour swatch 1 swatch 2

Visible changes of the surface swatch 1 swatch 2

1000

4/5

Smooth hairy

2000

4/5

Smooth

3000 4000 5000

4/5

Smooth

4/5

Smooth

6000 7000

Original swatch

General remark:

Treated swatch 1

Treated swatch 2

DIGITAL SKILLS DOCUMENT

photos of the outfit in calico

front

right profile

back

left profile

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DIGITAL SKILLS DOCUMENT fitting report

After an in-depth analysis of the current Weekday collection, we have decided to assemble an outfit that is aligned with the concept of our extension. Comfortable pieces in neutral colors that can be easily styled up and down. A vest with an oversized fit, utilitarian style, a zipper, and two front patch pockets with flaps, and two bottom pockets that make the design more interesting, made out of 100% organic cotton twill, and woven, lightweight joggers with elasticated waistband and cuffs.

One of the first steps, that had to be taken was to create tech packs for both of the pieces in order to better understand how the garments are assembled and to have a starting point for all of the next steps.

Both of the tech packs worked out very well and only a few adjustments were needed after receiving the feedback from the teachers, for instance, the shoulder seam should be either in the front or the back of a garment and we were missing the back neckline in the vest. The feedback was immediately taken into consideration and all the advised changes were instantly applied.

the feedback about the tech packs was very positive and only a few, small adjustments were needed

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DIGITAL SKILLS DOCUMENT fitting report The next step was to create the chosen garments in Browzwear.

We took advantage of Browzwear cloud and we were able to find garments that were somewhat similar to ours. For the vest, a bomber jacket was used since it was most fitting to adjust. Sleeves and cuffs needed to be removed and it was required to adjust the neckline into the V shape. Lastly, pockets and flaps were added along with a new zipper.

The first fitting in a 3D environment was on an already existing model from Browzwear. Both pants and vest seemed to be working out very well on the model. The measurements of the avatar seemed to drape perfectly on the avatar and according to the chosen size - medium. We have decided that we can continue with our project and start preparing the pattern pieces to prepare for the Sweatshop.

It was very important to plan the layout of our pattern pieces in a way that we lose as little fabric as it is possible to reduce the waste that is created because of sampling. 2cm allowance needed to be added for all of the front and back pieces, for flat-felled seams and rolled hems, for the pockets we added 1 cm to the sides to topstitch them, the top has 3cm to give a rolled hem, for the pocket flaps we added 2cms to the sides to give a rolled hem. Our feedback from the pattern teacher was to add grain lines, names, and notches. for the bottoms, we needed to adjust the seam allowance, add notches to fold lines.

Fitting on already existing model in Browzwear - at first everything turned out correctly and the sizing and measurements of the avatar were working out well together.

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DIGITAL SKILLS DOCUMENT fitting report

The fitting of the vest turned out to be accurate compared to what has been created in Browzwear with no major errors occurring. The size turned out to be perfectly oversized just as it was meant to be and everything was in the right place (unfortunately it didn’t prove whether our tech pack and workflow were successful since it was Hedda that assembled this piece together).

Even though, the pants were wearable we definitely noticed a lot of mistakes. In the stage of cutting out the pattern pieces for the bottoms, we noticed the waistband looked oddly small in comparison to the pattern pieces that have been made for the vest. When going through each other’s files it must have been missed, looking at measurements of the printed piece vs Browzwear file. We also noticed that someone overlooked the information about the cuffs attached to the tech pack and instead of them, finished the edge with a hem.

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DIGITAL SKILLS DOCUMENT fitting report

At first glance, the sizing looked to be alright as there are no obvious first indicators, however looking at size charts and other measurement data it would be impossible to have a 75cm waist on an L size pant. looking at the pressure and tension maps also shows issues around the waist and crotch that should be adjusted.

We came to the conclusion that if we want to use Browzwear as a tool in sampling we need to use all capabilities of the software before sending out prototypes to be made, as we already now know that there are fundamental issues with this pattern.

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DIGITAL SKILLS DOCUMENT fitting report

for the sampling process we purposely decided not to include the zipper to produce less waste, but multiple tests were done and it would work out perfectly with a zipper

the oversized feel and utilitary style of the vest has been achieved and successfully executed which made us sure that the further sampling of vest is not necessary

placing of pockets and pockets themselves turned out perfectly

too much tension in the crotch area which makes the pants wearable but not comfortable and practical which is the main idea behind the sweatpants

wrong measurments for the pants which made it too short for the model and for the size Large

the cuffs that were supposed to be attached to the edge of the pants were overlooked by the person who assembled the pants but it would still not make them the right lenght for a size Large

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DIGITAL SKILLS DOCUMENT fitting report

C

O

N

C

L

U

S

I

O

N

When comparing our final physical products to the visual avatar with the measurements that are taken from the actual model we can draw one very clear conclusion. Mistakes that occurred in the making of our sweatpants could be easily solved if we would take the actual measurements from the very beginning. The comparison clearly showed that the pants were too short and that there is too much tension around the crotch, which makes the pants wearable but definitely not comfortable and practical, and it was the main idea behind those pants. On the other hand, the vest turned out to be exactly what we expected it to be and if we would know that the tech pack and workflow included there, is understandable and clear for someone who is not aware how the final product should look like, we would be able to start its production.

It would limit the waste that is produced through the sampling process and could be a more affordable and more environmentally friendly alternative.

Browzwear and 3D design have definitely a lot to offer and have the potential to be incorporated within Weekday’s production process and in our extension. However, more research and in-depth knowledge about the program are required to fully understand how different options work and to make the best out of it, so in the future, it reduces the number of mistakes that are made.

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DIGITAL SKILLS DOCUMENT physical fitting compared to Browzwear

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DIGITAL SKILLS DOCUMENT

outfit variations

ELIN

Since denim is an essential part of Weekday’s collection, it was a natural decision to incorporate this in the variation. In line with the patchwork items of the new collection, the vest and the shorts were designed in two different denim washes. In addition, the vest was made slightly longer to accommodate both inner- and outerwear depending on the season. Finally, the trousers were made into loose-fitting but structured shorts so that the customer could wear them both daytime and during more formal occasions.

PATRICK

“The TLRD Utility Outfit combines workwear and streetwear design - simple but progressive.

The Weecycle Jacket is made of 100% wool to give it a natural firm drape.

Compared to the original piece (the vest), the top breastpockets were removed in order not to overload the whole piece. But most importantly long sleeves were added. The utility character of the piece is preserved through the sleevepockets on both arms. All pockets were redesigned with vegan leather printed flaps to be the eye-catcher of the piece. The size of the zipper was adjusted upwards so that the neckline is higher and more suitable fora jaket.

The pants were adjusted longer after the prototype came out to be very short. It is made of 100% cotton twill to give it more of a workwear character. Also, the cuffs were removed to give the piece a more masculine character. Here again the utility pockets are attached as backpockets.” Transfering 2D in 3D: 1) The right pocket placement is really hard to guess in 2D compared to 3D. 2) Making it look more realistic in Illustrator can change what you expext from the 3D outcome -> where in 2D the waistband was drawn with the wrinkles shadow to make it look like a real waistband you may also expect more contrast in the 3D Model, but as there is no strong shadow, the waistband is tone in tone, as there is no contrast colour, of course.

9

DIGITAL SKILLS DOCUMENT MICHELLE

Before variation could have been made, it was necessary to create the whole outfit in one single Browzwear file. When importing the dxf file, styling, materials, stitches and trims were lost so they had to be recreated first in order to proceed with the variations. After the Sweatshop and the fitting of the prototype, adjustments regarding the basic outfit had to made in the length of the trousers. Also, the tension map within the functions of Browzwear as well as the physical fitting gave indications where to alter the garment in order to have a great fit (waistband, crotch).

The newly created outfit is intended to be more casual looking than the basic outfit created in the sweatshop. The utility vibe from the vest is kept but is more expensive- looking through the material choice.

Compared to the original vest, the oversized cut and the basic shape were preserved but short sleeves were added. The top is made out of 100% leather and has white contrast yarn for the stitches which gives an overall stiffer and more progressive look. This piece is definitely an outstanding piece that can also be styled with shirts underneath.

The bottom was intended to be a good combination of streetstyle, and formal wear as seen often in Weekday pieces. Therefore, a tailored pants from the cloud was used as a base. Here, adjustments regarding the size have been made to make it fit as well as ensuring the wider leg for the trousers. Moreover, the material choice was a firm denim to give it a stiffer outcome as well. Another design choice was to implement a variation of the graphic prints which are often used in shirts from Weekday. A graphic print was added in the back on one panel only as an overall print.

MATEUSZ

In order to make the set aligned with Weekday’s DNA the new variation is a denim set that can be worn together but also separately. For both, top and bottom, 100% cotton denim was applied in a classic indigo dye with a print «Weekday» on the back of the top and bright yellow stitches to make the design more interesting. Even though the bottom is made out of denim which ensures that the piece can be dressed up, the excess material and oversized fit ensures that the pants are comfortable and can be dressed down.

In order to make this set happen, it was necessary to analyze what didn’t work out in the first version of this outfit.

The pants were designed to make sure that they wouldn’t be too short for anyone and that one can easily roll them up if necessary. The short sleeves were added to the vest to make the design more interesting and a Weekday logo on the back.

The zipper was replaced with metal buttons to make this denim vest a bit more conventional. The main feeling of the original outfit is kept and is rediscovered in this variation.

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DIGITAL SKILLS DOCUMENT

HEDDA

The Jacket is made of a wool twill, it combines a the utility of the original garment with the more formal look of the TRLD collection. The fabric gives a natural firm drape. The original vest was alerted in length and the increase of another set of pockets added in this lower space. The longline of this vest contrasts with the lack of sleeves making it a great layering piece with the rest of the TRLD collection, especially with the use of fabrics and colours aligning with the extension.

The pants were adjusted to be a more constructed pant without an elasticated waistband, instead pleats to the pant are added along with feature zippers to the side seams. Adjustment were made to the length to create long short.

Made of wool twill to carry on the more formal look the side zippers contrast bringing back more of the workwear character seen across the brand.

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DIGITAL SKILLS DOCUMENT

browzwear certificates

Michelle Tissen

Mateusz Cierniak

Patrick Klaghofer

Elin Marianne Vixilia Salenius

Hedda Smith

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