HOLIDAY 2023
Hello . . . . . . and welcome to the inaugural list from Hardie Grant North America! I like to describe this first season as small but mighty. These books are all heart, reflecting lifetimes’ worth of work and dedication to craft. They are also family affairs; of husband-and-wife partnerships, sister and brother collaborations, and a joint effort between a mother and her two daughters. The resulting books are treasure troves of knowledge and delicious recipes. But above all, these books meant to inspire, educate, transport, and perhaps most importantly—to cook from! From the legendary Beverly Soon Tofu in Los Angeles, comes Sohn-mat: Recipes and Flavors of Korean Home Cooking. This is a master class in making the soft tofu chigae that made chef Monica Lee’s restaurant a destination for over thirty years. Danny Childs left his graduate work in ethnobotany to move back home to northern New Jersey. He discovered the local flora told just as fascinating a story as the Amazonian plants he had been studying. Slow Drinks builds on this academic training and the practical experience of running a bar at the locavore restaurant, The Farm and the Fisherman. Danny profiles over 60 of the world’s most ubiquitous and useful edible plants, and how to turn them into sodas, beers, wines, and syrups, all gorgeously photographed by his wife, Katie Childs. Preserved Fruit and Preserved Condiments are the first two volumes in a six-book series. These bespoke books make clear that food preservation has been central to our survival and is part of our
shared culinary traditions the world over. Written by three acclaimed authors, and with globally inspired recipes, original illustrations, and gorgeous photography, these books are perfect to give as gifts, collect for yourself, and return to again and again for cooking inspiration. Rintaro is nestled behind a leafy courtyard in the heart of San Francisco’s Mission district. Its menu imagines California as the westernmost prefecture of Japan; applying Japanese tastes and techniques to the ingredients of the Golden State. Rintaro the book does the same but widens its reach, encouraging readers to find the best ingredients on their home turf and learn how to make the hand-rolled udon, juicy and blisteringly hot gyoza, and succulent beef curry rice that have made Rintaro one of the most acclaimed restaurants in the country. Hardie Grant has been publishing beautiful and important books for 25 years from our headquarters in Melbourne, Australia but with this expansion into North America and the creation of our new imprint, I hope we can shine a light on some of the most distinctive voices and worthwhile stories here in the US. As we head into the holiday season, spending more time at home and in the kitchen, we hope these books offer inspiration for your own cooking, or to give as gifts to other food and drink loving people in your life. JENNY WAPNER, Publisher
Danny Childs, author of Slow Drinks
You studied anthropology, but ended up a leader in the “garden-to-glass” movement. How did cocktails become your focus?
My interest in the garden predated my interest in the glass. After spending years learning to think like an anthropologist and studying people’s relationship to plants, I couldn’t help but look at beverages and cocktails through an ethnobotanical lens once I stepped behind the bar. Now, my restaurant job combines anthropology, biology, botany, and Spanish, which were all subjects I studied in school. I even have a fieldwork component that allows me to collect and document ingredients from the forest, garden, and field. College me would be very proud. The stunning photography in the book was taken by your wife, Katie. What was it like working together on this project?
It was one of the most simultaneously rewarding and challenging things we’ve ever accomplished as a couple. We worked tirelessly on the book proposal during most of the first year of our oldest son’s life and signed our contract with Hardie Grant weeks after our second son was born. Katie and I have always been such a great team, though, that we still found our rhythm and workflow even amidst the madness of the two under 2 club. Now that we’re on the other side of it, the reward is so much sweeter because we know how much we sacrificed to make it happen.
PHOTO CREDIT: CHLOE DAWSON
Q&A
At any given moment, we know you have a few different jars of foraged or grown ingredients macerating. What DIY projects do you have in the works right now?
In addition to my usual yearly staples (nocino, last season’s amaro, elderflower kombucha, spruce beer), I’m really excited about this plum project I’ve got going at the moment. Someone contacted me on Instagram because of a surplus of plums from a tree in their yard. I got probably 10 gallons of them and made a plum shrub with ume (plum) vinegar, a lacto-ferment of the pommace leftover from processing the shrub, a noyaux made by macerating the baked pits in Slivovitz (damson plum brandy), and umeshu, made by steeping unripe ume plums in Yokka Koji awamori. It’s the nose-to-tail equivalent of the beverage world. What advice do you have for someone who is just starting to forage or grow botanical ingredients for their cocktails?
For the forager—The first thing you should do is download a plant ID app. Then, start simple and nearby. Many delicious ingredients can likely be found in your yard or not far beyond it.
For the gardener—try growing ingredients that are regional heirlooms to where you live. Not only are you helping preserve diversity, but you’re doing so with varietals that have adapted to the growing conditions in your area. What are some good beginner recipes in the book? As an expert, what’s your favorite?
La Poblanita is my favorite recipe in the book. It’s very beginner friendly and so perfect during the peak of pepper season. Katie’s favorite is the spruce beer, which takes a little more time and dedication, but can conveniently be made year-round.
DIRTY RAMP MARTINI People tend to have very strong opinions when it comes to how they like their Martinis. Feel free to adjust the recipe by swapping in gin, or making it more stiff or dirty to make it to your liking.
2 oz/60 ml vodka 1/2 oz/15 ml ramp brine from Pickled Ramp Leaves 1/2 oz/15 ml dry vermouth
Fill a cocktail shaker with ice and add the vodka, brine, and vermouth. Shake, double strain into a chilled Martini coupe, and garnish with a chive blossom.
Chive blossom, for garnish MAKES 1 COCKTAIL
PICKLED RAMP LEAVES 3/4 c/175 ml water 6 Tbsp/90 ml distilled white vinegar 6 Tbsp/90 ml white balsamic vinegar (if you can’t find it, white wine vinegar works) 11/2 Tbsp/20 ml sugar 21/4 tsp kosher salt Three 2 in/5 cm thyme sprigs 1/2 tsp black peppercorns 1/2 tsp fermented red chile flakes (optional) 1 bay leaf 60 ramp leaves MAKES APPROXIMATELY 1 PT/475 ML
To prepare your brine, add the water, white vinegar, balsamic vinegar, sugar, and salt to a medium saucepan and bring to a roaring boil. Meanwhile, add the thyme, peppercorns, chile flakes, and bay leaf to a 1 pt/475 ml mason jar, followed by the ramp leaves, being sure to pack them in tightly. Pour the boiling brine into the jar and immediately cap tightly. These can be quick pickled and consumed within 1 or 2 months or water-bath processed for long-term storage.
Monica Lee, author of Sohn-mat
Your restaurant Beverly Soon Tofu helped put LA’s Koreatown on the map. What’s it like to be recognized as a pioneer who helped build this important community?
Honestly, when I opened my restaurant in 1986, I just wanted to be able to share my cooking with others. In the Korean culture, we show love through our food. When I first started the restaurant, I was making tofu to sell each day and I worked to make sure what I was cooking for customers was the food I wanted people to eat. No shortcuts and the best thing I can make. If I can be recognized as a pioneer who helped build Koreatown LA, I am grateful for the community for letting me do that. Back in 1986, we had very few specialty restaurants in Koreatown LA, those that specialized in one thing and did it well. Now, Koreatown LA is a food destination and I am so proud of this community and our resiliency! It’s been two years since BST closed. What was it like to revisit the recipes that were loved by so many who visited?
I have to say it was so bittersweet to close BST in September of 2020 due to the pandemic. If you frequented my restaurant, it was just 10 tables and I really wanted it to feel like home cooked meals. When I revisited the recipes, that feeling came back of bringing my food to customers. I wanted to contribute these recipes as a thank you for everyone who came to my restaurant, from the time they were kids to the end when we closed. They had shared so many memories with me, from graduations, to first dates, and other special occasions. I hope my readers know how much I valued those memories and how thankful I am they enjoy Korean food.
PHOTO CREDIT: RICK POON
Q&A
Readers will be pleased to see recipes from Beverly Soon Tofu, but you have also included many family recipes as well. Do you have a favorite?
There are recipes from my restaurant, Beverly Soon Tofu, recipes from all the years I made Korean food at home for my two daughters, and ones I learned from my grandmother that span this cookbook. All the recipes in the book are close to my heart but I’d have to pick two favorites: LA Galbi and Grandma’s Egg and Chives. I remember having LA Galbi for the first time when I came to the US. My grandmother made them and grilled on charcoal. There was nothing like that in Korea back then. They were so delicious that I ate 20 of them! The other favorite is also linked to a memory of my grandmother. She used to make the egg and chives side dish often and then she taught it to me. I started making this as part of our regular meals too. It is quick, easy and yummy! To write this book you collaborated with your co-writer, Tien Nguyen, and your daughters were also involved to help you tell your story. What was it like working with your family to bring the book to life? I am so grateful to work with my co-author, Tien Nguyen. We started writing this cookbook during the pandemic so it was largely through many zoom calls where Tien would ask questions and I would talk through the stories with her. I can’t believe with my broken English and all of our Zoom meetings, she was able to capture my passion for food and bring to life my journey as a cook in Koreatown LA. I also had a chance to work with my daughters and we spent countless hours going over recipes and they also helped translate. I wasn’t able to spend a lot of
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Q&A with Monica Lee, continued
time with my daughters when they were growing up because I was working at the restaurant. I will cherish the time we spent on this cookbook because it gave me a chance to teach them so much of my cooking, have them listen to my stories and most importantly, connect with them about food in a way that I am certain they now understand at this age. It was so memorable and deeply meaningful to me.
What do you want home cooks to know about this book?
Korean food is approachable, delicious and comforting. This book reflects my food style. The recipes are easy to make because you can get most ingredients in any grocery store these days, simple to prepare and enjoy, and adaptable to people with many different palates, tastes and preferences. I want to share that through food, one can reflect their love for cooking but also the person they are making it for. I want to impart that feeling and encourage people to love cooking… Korean food!
DOO BOO JORIM BRAISED TOFU 두부 조림 SAUCE
1/2 cup / 120ml Mat Ganjang / Seasoned Soy Sauce 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil 1 tablespoon Gahreun Mahneul /Blended Garlic 2 teaspoons rice cooking wine 11/2 teaspoons coarse gochugaru 11/2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
This tofu is pan fried and then braised in a mix of seasoned soy sauce, gochugaru, garlic, and sesame oil. The sauce will reduce as it boils, so watch the pan and add water as necessary to maintain its consistency. If you have more than four guests or want to make enough for leftovers, use two boxes of tofu instead of just one. The leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the fridge for three to four days. When you’re ready to serve, the braised tofu is delicious served with hot steamed rice. This dish is very comforting and takes me back to my grandmother. I’m sure it’ll take you back to your Korean grandmother, too—or make you wish you had one!
TOFU
1 tablespoon vegetable or other neutral oil 1 (19-oz / 538g) package medium or firm tofu, preferably House Foods brand, drained and sliced into pieces 1/2 inch / 12mm thick 1/2 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced 1/2 cup / 30g white beech, enoki, or button mushrooms, sliced (optional) 1 jalapeño or other chile pepper, sliced (optional) 3 tablespoons chopped green onions, green and white parts, for garnish Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish SERVES 4
TO MAKE THE SAUCE Place the seasoned soy sauce, 1/4 cup / 60ml water, sesame oil, garlic, cooking wine, gochugaru, sesame seeds, and black pepper in a medium bowl and mix. Set aside until ready to use. TO COOK AND SERVE THE TOFU Place a large pan over high heat and add the vegetable oil. When the oil begins to smoke, carefully add the tofu. Pan-fry until the tofu is light brown, then flip. Fry on both sides until the tofu takes on a golden hue. Pour the sauce over the tofu. Add the yellow onions, as well as the mushrooms and jalapeño (if using). Lower the heat to medium and spoon the sauce over the tofu and vegetables to coat. As the liquid gently boils, continue to spoon the sauce over the tofu and vegetables, adding more water as needed to maintain its consistency as the liquid evaporates. After boiling for 2 to 3 minutes, turn off the heat and sprinkle the green onions and sesame seeds over the tofu. Transfer the tofu, vegetables, and braising liquid to a serving bowl or platter. As you do so, the green onions will cook slightly in the residual heat. By the time you set the tofu on the table, all the components will have come together, and it will be perfect with a bowl of rice.
Sylvan Mishima Brackett, author of Rintaro
Your restaurant is consistently hailed as one of San Francisco’s best. What was it like transforming the restaurant recipes for home cooks?
We serve nearly 170 people per night at the restaurant, so the recipes we use at the restaurant make very large batches. The greatest challenge was scaling the recipes for home use. However, I was diligent to include all of the tiny steps and subtle considerations that make a dish special. No secrets left out! Before you opened Rintaro, you worked in a number of incredible restaurants in Portland and the Bay Area, including Chez Panisse. How have those experiences influenced the way you cook? Aside from my work in restaurants in Japan, I spent most of my early restaurant life at Chez Panisse. I think there is no restaurant in America that has such an extensive network of farmers and ranchers supplying the ingredients. Alice Waters has been one of my great mentors. From her and her team of chefs, I learned how a dish will never be better than the ingredients you start with. I also learned the importance of cultivating relationships with the people who produce your food in order to find the best ingredients. Anyone who has visited Rintaro can see you have an eye for design. How has this inspired the look and feel of the book?
When I first dreamed of opening an izakaya, even before thinking about the food or drink, I wanted to bring a certain vibe from the izakayas I loved in Japan. I wanted some place lively and fun that it felt like it had been around for decades. I wanted some place where are you could sit with your friends and drink and eat late into the night. Early on, I was
PHOTO CREDIT: AYA BR ACKET T
Q&A
also attracted to the illustrations from the match boxes from prewar Japan that were used to advertise bars and clubs and restaurants. These illustrations communicated the feeling I was trying to achieve, and we’ve used them extensively in the book. You can see the influence of both Japan and California in your restaurant and cookbook, but you’ve said it’s not fusion food. Can you explain?
I think early on I wanted to stay away from the word fusion. It brought to mind the worst ideas from 80s and 90s adaptations of Asian cuisine and implied a shallow understanding of the cuisines from which they were borrowing. I believe that the soul of Great Japanese cooking is a real consideration of ingredients and the seasons when they are at their best. I happen to be in California, so the ingredients with the most life are ones from here, and we prepare them with techniques I learned from my Japanese mother, Toshiko, and from the chefs I worked with in Japan. The recipes in the book represent a cross section of Japanese food that isn’t usually shown in American cookbooks. What advice do you have for people who are being introduced to your food for the first time through the cookbook?
Although many recipes can be made without specialized Japanese dry ingredients, to really plunge into the book, I would recommend stocking up on a few essentials: good quality soy sauce, mirin, miso, rice vinegar, dried bonito flakes (katsuobushi) and konbu. A decade ago, this would have been difficult, but there are fantastic resources online (Japanese Pantry) or from the growing number of Asian grocery stores.
GYUSUJI NIKOMI SIMMERED VEAL SHANK AND TENDON 牛すじ煮込み 8 lb / 3.6kg veal shanks 8 oz / 225 grams unpeeled ginger, cut into ½-inch / 12 mm thick slices 4 bunches scallion tops 7 dried Japanese chile peppers ½ cup / 106 g demerara or dark brown sugar 8½ cups / 2L Katsuobushi Dashi 1 cup / 236ml cooking sake
I love a giant pot of gyusuji nikomi gurgling away on the back burner. There is nothing light about this dish. It’s nearly black because of the dark shoyu and hatcho miso, and the veal shanks cook long past where the meat has fallen from the bones. The connective tissues in the shank, after hours of simmering, begin to melt, enriching the sauce and giving it a deep luster. In Japan, gyusuji nikomi is made from beef tendon, which is sold with a bit of meat attached and is widely available in grocery stores. It’s hard to find it here (tendons are often turned into dog chews), so this recipe uses mostly the hardworking leg muscle meat with the tendons that connect them to the bone. If you happen to find beef tendons sold on their own, substitute them for a third of the shanks in the recipe.
1 cup / 236ml mirin 1 cup / 236ml dark shoyu ½ cup / 115 g red miso 6 tablespoons / 75 g hatcho miso (if not available, substitute red miso) FOR SERVING
Shichimi Sliced scallions Finely sliced yuzu or lemon peel, pith removed MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Put the veal shanks, half of the ginger, and half of the scallion tops in a large pot. Add cold water to cover by a few inches / 5 centimeters and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat so the water is simmering and simmer for about an hour, or until the shanks are totally cooked through (an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the shank should register 145°F / 63°C). Drain, discard the vegetables, and rinse the beef in a bowl of fresh water. Wash the pot. Once the shanks are cool enough to handle, cut the meat and tendons from the bones; discard the bones. Cut the meat and tendons into bite-sized pieces. Wrap the remaining scallion tops and chile peppers in a piece of cheesecloth and secure with kitchen twine. Place the cloth package at the bottom of the clean pot and cover with the cut meat and the remaining ginger slices. Add the sugar, dashi, sake, and mirin and bring to a boil over high heat. Using a spider or a slotted spoon, skim any foam that rises to the surface. Turn down the heat to low and simmer for 1 hour, periodically skimming any foam that rises to the surface, until the tendons become soft and gelatinous. Remove the cloth package and discard. Add the shoyu and red and hatcho miso, stirring to dissolve the miso. Cook for another 10 minutes, until the sauce is glossy. Ladle into bowls and serve with shichimi, scallions, and yuzu alongside.
Q&A Darra Goldstein, Cortney Burns, & Richard Martin, authors of Preserved
What makes this series so special?
Each volume takes a deep dive into a single category of foods, looking at its subject through recipes, history, and visual materials. Though each volume is narrowly focused, the books come together as a series to offer an expansive look at how food has been preserved over the centuries and around the world, showing a lively interplay between tradition and modern science. By mapping the diverse histories of global preservation techniques, the series takes readers’ understanding of the art and craft of preserving to a deeper level. Why do food lovers need these books?
Because the books explore both microbial cultures and the diverse human cultures that harness them, they are useful both as practical guides and as food history companions. We include recipes for homemade versions of favorites like Worcestershire sauce, apple butter, and hoisin sauce but also offer techniques for making less well-known preserved foods like fruit cheese, brined watermelon, and salsa macha. The small-book format makes the series easy to dip into, with recipes designed to speak to beginners and more seasoned practitioners alike. You are a trio of authors with different backgrounds and experience. What would you say each of you bring to this project?
We think the books benefit from the different perspectives we’ve brought to the project: a chef ’s expertise in recipe development and innovative flavor profiles, a scholar’s commitment to understanding the past through history and food culture, and a journalist’s pop culture sensibilities. Our different
PHOTO CREDIT: (TOP LEFT) CHAD ROBERTSON, (TOP RIGHT): ASHLEY WEEKS CART, (BOT TOM): APOLLINE MARTIN
types of expertise also mean that the recipes have been tested by three kinds of cooks to ensure that they work for everyone: a cutting-edge fermentation expert, a professional cookbook writer/avid home fermenter, and a skilled home cook without deep experience in fermentation. Preserved: Fruit and Preserved: Condiments are the first two books in this exciting series. What are you thinking will be next? The next two volumes are Drinks and Vegetables. They’ll appear in October 2024. The last two books in the series will focus on grains and dairy.
ZHUG For its popular appeal, the spicy Yemeni cilantro sauce known as zhug has been described as “the next Sriracha.” This condiment is indeed fiery hot with chile peppers, but it is also aromatic with spices and herbaceous notes of cilantro and parsley. In Yemen, this condiment is known by its Arabic name, sahawiq, which refers to the traditional method of preparation by pounding the herbs into a paste between two stones. Today, it is better known around the world by its Hebrew name of zhug. Between 1949 and 1950, thousands of Yemeni Jews were airlifted to Israel, where they introduced this treasured condiment to their new home. Zhug soon became a staple of Israeli cuisine, and over the past decade, thanks to the trendiness of Israeli food, zhug has become a fixture in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern restaurants. Zhug is usually served freshly made, when it tastes bold and vivacious. We take it a step further, fermenting the herbs and spices to transform the sauce slightly but meaning fully. Fermentation adds not only complexity but also a more entrenched heat as the sauce deepens from bright green to olive.
10 large garlic cloves, crushed 4 packed cups/120 g cilantro leaves (about 2 large bunches) 2 packed cups/120 g parsley leaves (about 1 large bunch) 12 serrano or green jalapeño chiles, stemmed and thinly sliced 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1/2 teaspoon sumac powder 1/2 teaspoon Aleppo or other dried red pepper flakes 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom 2 tablespoons /30 ml freshly squeezed lime juice MAKES 1 PINT OR 475 MILLILITERS
In a food processor, pulse the garlic until finely minced. Add the cilantro, parsley, chiles, salt, cumin, black pepper, coriander, sumac, red pepper, cardamom, and lime juice. Pulse to make a fine paste. Pack into a 1-pint / 475 ml canning jar. There should be a bit of headspace between the mixture and the lid; if not, transfer the paste to a slightly larger container. Place a piece of plastic wrap or parchment paper directly against the surface of the paste and screw the lid onto the jar loosely. Leave the zhug to ferment at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, for 7 to 10 days. To release any gas pressure that builds up, unscrew the lid a couple times a day for the first few days, replac.ing the lid each time. By day 7, the paste will have turned from a verdant green to a duskier hue. At this point, taste the zhug to determine whether you like its degree of acidity. If not, let it ferment a bit longer; it can take up to 2 weeks to fully develop in flavor. When the zhug is ready, place a fresh piece of plastic wrap or parchment directly on the surface and close the lid tightly. It will keep for 6 months in the refrigerator. serving suggestions use to marinate fish / mix with chickpeas or other legumes for a hearty salad base / whisk into olive oil or greek yogurt for a ready dip
VERY BERRY MAPLE SYRUP Some people swear by maple syrup on their pancakes and waffles. Others prefer berries at the breakfast table, either served fresh as a fruit topping or as a clear syrup. Here, we unite the two schools of taste by mixing berries with maple syrup. The result is a fruity, full-bodied syrup with a sweet and sour flavor, thanks to the addition of honey and whey plus a few days of fermentation. If you use raspberries or blackberries, the syrup will contain seeds, which we happen to like; if you prefer a clear syrup, you can always strain them out before refrigerating.
1 pound /454 g berries, such as raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, or blueberries, or a combination 1/4 cup /60 ml fresh whey, strained from plain, full-fat yogurt 2 tablespoons /42 g raw, unpasteurized honey 11/4 teaspoons kosher salt 3/4 cup/240 g pure maple syrup, preferably dark Grade B MAKES 1 PINT OR 475 MILLILITERS
In a blender, briefly pulse the berries, whey, honey, and salt just until the berries have broken up. Pour the mixture into a 1-quart / 1 L jar and close the lid tightly. Leave on the counter at room temperature (68° to 72°F/ 20° to 22°C) to ferment for 3 days. After 3 days, stir in the maple syrup. Leave the mixture on the counter for 1 more day. The syrup can be refrigerated as is, or you can strain it first to remove any seeds. The syrup will keep for up to 2 months. serving suggestions use on pancakes, waffles, and crepes / stir into smoothies / spoon over yogurt or frozen custard
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