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volume 8 issue 1
HA R B OR S
The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine CONTACT 3214 45th Ave SW Seattle, WA 98116
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PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT George V. Bivoino EDITOR Russ Young editor@harborsmagazine.com ART DIRECTOR Karen Johnson COPY EDITING Biff Burns ADVERTISING SALES Mark McLean, Senior Account Executive mark@harborsmagazine.com
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View the most sought- after adventure destinations around the waters of the Pacific Northwest.
Adventure & Lifestyle Videos Articles & Photography Fishing Lodges Resorts & Spas
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AJ Hunt Cindy Phillips Terry W. Sheely Tom Tripp Russ Young
PHOTO CREDITS Terry W. Sheely, pgs. 14-20 Karen Johnson, pgs. 20 (bottom), 32-33 (top), 50, 53 Kat McKelvey, pgs. 22-26, 41-46 Russell Campbell, pg. 24* Alison Gardner, pgs.28-33
Penny Fredlund, pg. 40 Deane Hislop, pgs. 51-54 Cindy Phillips and Gordon Baron, pgs. 56-61 The Village Inn, pgs. 76-77 Granville House B&B, pgs. 78-79
* Winner of the 2016 Homer Chamber Visitor’s Guide photo contest. HARBORS Magazine is a proud sponsor of: Pacific Salmon Foundation of Canada Long Live the Kings of Washington State Friday Harbor Film Festival HARBORS Magazine is a proud member of: British Columbia Floatplane Association Northwest Marine Trade Association Northwest Yacht Brokers Association Washington State Seaplane Pilots Association PUBLISHED BY
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HAR B O R S
Welcome to HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
A Note from the Publisher
Harbor Lights Greetings, Another year has come and gone, and it goes without saying that 2017 is going to be a most interesting year. The U.S. will have a new President leading a deeply divided country ... a nation that will hopefully come together to address, and solve, the significant issues and challenges that we face as a country. Our hope here at HARBORS is that the new administration will embrace the serious environmental issues we need to focus on: global warming, our dwindling fisheries, our polluted waters, our melting glaciers and all of our precious natural resources. Last November, HARBORS sponsored and attended the Friday Harbor Film Festival on San Juan Island. We saw several films that painted a sad picture of what is happening to our natural world; we are losing the battle against environmental recovery. Our rivers and oceans are in bad shape, and it is up to us to protect what we have so future generations will be able to enjoy the waters of the Pacific Northwest. As you prepare for the next boating and seaplane season, please join us in acknowledging that it is up to all of us to make changes and do the right thing for our maritime environment. And then join us in acting accordingly—actions speak louder than words! In this first issue of 2017 we celebrate several new destinations as well as continuing our twopart article on Homer, Alaska. We will take you to the west coast of Vancouver Island for an exciting fishing adventure, take a scenic look at BC’s Stewart’s Lodge and meet Tweedsmuir Air, and view the many delights of Washington’s Gig Harbor with a look at the many experiences this small maritime city has to offer. We are also introducing a new feature on celebrity chefs of the Northwest. Each issue will now feature a celebrity chef who will share not only a recipe, but also the many ways they work to protect our oceans to produce safe, tasty and sustainable seafood. Happy New Year everyone … let’s make 2017 a productive and successful year for all. Cheers!
Scan to Subscribe Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher
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Get on board with
HARBORS RBORS Calling all Captains, Pilots and Adventure Enthusiasts…. we appreciate your support and look forward to bringing you more and more exciting boating and seaplane destinations.
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2017 January/February
Features
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Ucluelet, B.C.
22
Homer, Alaska
28
Heriot Bay Inn
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Travel Maps
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On the Waterfront
A Three-Day Fishing Adventure Our Odyssey to a Very Friendly Place (Part Two) Quadra Island, BC
Pacific Northwest Coastal Waterways Leschi Neighborhood, Seattle, WA
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Gig Harbor Marina and Boatyard South Puget Sound
(photo by Deane Hislop)
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Stewart’s Lodge and Tweedsmuir Air
Cover Photo: Mt. Rainier, visible from Gig Harbor, WA
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HARBORS Happenings
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Nimpo Lake, BC
Friday Harbor Film Festival
Gear Guide
For Your Boat Show Checklist
Seaplane & Boating Destinations
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Three Days in Three Days in Ucluelet, BC Ucluelet, BC
by Terry W. Sheely by Terry W. Sheely
L
ady Cynthia has the rod wedged under her right arm, her sun visor slipping over her left eye. And she’s leaning into the fish fight, her feet slipping on a wet deck, cranking hard on the big reel handle—and losing. Down 185 feet on the gravelly flat of La Perouse Bank, a stubborn British Columbia halibut is flapping and bucking. Lady Cynthia’s stout rod is painfully bent and her arms ache, but her jaw is set. The visor slips over both eyes and her dad, David Whittall, grabs the rod, giving her a moment to catch
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her balance, get a fresh grip, and bring the fish toward the Raven Princess’ fish box—where its 20 pounds of delicious white fillets will soon join two king salmon. Still ahead of us yet is a rolling boat ride on the open ocean, with a photo stop for a lumbering gray whale, waveskimming sea birds, the black-andwhite flash of Dall’s porpoises, a distant rainbow and easy conversations with some eclectic anglers. The day will be celebrated with sizz ling, butter-drenched crab and shrimp
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at Howler’s Family Restaurant, and crisp white wine on the beachfront patio at Blackrock. In all, a perfect Ucluelet weekend. Pronounced Yew-Kloo-Let, this little saltwater community is one of those treasured undiscovered Vancouver Island destinations. Its laid-back persona is overshadowed by neighboring Tofino’s flashy tourism. Which is okay, if you prefer quiet waterfronts with a range of accommodations, fabulous food, good fishing, great beachcombing and surfing—far enough off the
beaten path for an exciting yet comfortable weekend adventure. We came here primarily to fish for ocean king salmon and halibut, to pack the cooler with white rockfish fillets, and drink good locally brewed coffee, while putting on thick wool sweaters and walking on docks where seals bark and brown mink scurry. The shell-covered southern beaches of BC’s spectacular Pacific Rim National Park extend north for 25 miles from the edge of town. Wildlife cruises poke through the nearby Broken Island Group, graveled paths wind into coastal rainforests at the edge of town, colorful rental kayaks beckon and the smallboat harbor bulges with photo ops. In a short walk overlooking the bay my wife and I found more go-do options than we had time for: ocean surfing at Wickaninnish Beach; kayaking; scuba diving; zip-lining; and watching tours for birds, whales and black bears. Then beachcombing; ooh-andahh hikes into towers of old-growth cedar, fir and hemlock; golf; and art galleries. And BBQ at the Tattooed Beaver and organic local grub at the Blackberry Cove Market Place. Docks are wedged with saltwater boats of every description, design and purpose. Unfortunately, that no longer includes the iconic 1932 Canadian Princess. Last October the 214-foot long lodge and restaurant, for 30 years a fixture of Ucluelet, was towed to Surrey for dismantling. It seems a sad fate for a classic vessel that during WWII, under the name CSS William J. Stewart, carried out topsecret assignments for the Royal Canadian Navy. Just outside of the bay are tiny islands and reefs, streaming carpets of kelp and deep-water flats with promising salmon, halibut and rockfish action. The indigenous Nuu-chah-nulth called the cove “Safe Harbor,” an apt description for a peninsula town built on commercial fishing, and framed by the Pacific Ocean, Barkley Sound and the Broken Islands. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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That Ucluelet, a town of 1,700, has 16 hotels and resorts, 40 B&Bs, two hostels and a generous campground hints of its potential as a recreational destina tion just a day’s drive from Seattle. It’s also a scenic 40-minute flight from the South Terminal of Vancouver International Airport. We opted to fly on a chartered Pacific Coastal Airlines turboprop for an eagle’s-eye overview of southern Vancouver Island. If we had opted to take the BC Ferry from Vancouver we could have arranged for Ucluelet-based floatplane service West Coast Wild Adventurers to pick us up in Nanaimo and shuttle us directly to the harbor in Ucluelet. The town is two-faced—but in a good way. One face overlooks the picturesque calm waters of the harbor, the other stares out at a spectacular ocean beach with surfer-size breakers, sea stacks, and migration highways for hundreds of thousands of chinook, coho, pink, chum and sockeye salmon. We opted for a charter-boat fishing trip. After a pre-dawn power breakfast, with coffees in hand, we met at the dock where the 52-foot Raven Princess is idling. With a dozen other anglers we ghost away from “safe harbor,” into the surfing swells toward offshore banks. After a two-hour run Skipper Dave Payne calls out, “salmon at 60 feet.” A rod goes off in the bow, another on the port side, one in the stern and then my rod is slapped down. A lot of memories—and fish dinners—are being made this July day. One of the things I like about charterboat fishing is the mix of guests from eclectic backgrounds. At the ‘hot corner” of our boat is a hard-core diehard who plans his annual vacation to be on the water when the salmon run is hot. In the cabin is a father and his 9-year-old son on the boy’s first “guys day.” A German student, intently jigging for another salmon, is exploring British Columbia alone. Next to me is a diabetic biker festooned with embroidered and tattooed skulls-andcrossbones who eats French fries and The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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a giant burger, then worries about his sugar readings. Up the railing is a quiet guy wearing a hat advertising Tacoma Narrows Airport who says nary a word, and a Montana family of three on a vacation road trip. They’re all loving Ucluelet. On our third and last day I opted for an afternoon nap and an evening charter to fish nearby reefs for white fillets. We’re handed good rods pre-rigged with candlefish-style jigs: 4-ounce, 6-inch-long Point Wilson Darts with green backs and white bellies. The late afternoon bottom-fishing trip is a short run to a nearby cluster of reefs at Sail Rock that turns out to be full of surprises. There’s krill bait in the water. Birds are screaming, diving and feeding, and the fish are here—salmon near the top; halibut and rockfish on the bottom. We work the jigs, sweeping the rod up, dropping the jig into free fall, swimming it for three cranks of the reel handle, and repeating. Sweep, drop, swim and repeat, covering every inch of water from the bottom where we hope for halibut or ling, up to the surface where the coho and kings are feeding. The deckhand nets a mix of chicken halibut, salmon and rockfish in a flurry of action. I catch a small greenling, smile and lower it back to the reef. It doesn’t take too long before it’s gulped by a 20-pound-plus lingcod. Down the railing another surprise is unfolding. One of the Montana kids has created a monstrous backlash of line in his reel. While he picks at it, his father grabs the line to keep the jig from snagging bottom. He feels a tug, and then another, and slowly hand-lines the fish, probably a smallish rockfish. When a 17-pound king salmon materializes chaos breaks out. The deckhand runs for the net, the skipper runs for the deckhand, the father hangs on to the line and the fish, the largest of the afternoon, decently wallows on the 18
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surface waiting to be netted. Everyone cheers the boy. When the weekend ends we’re both winded, tired and fish-bent, but still not ready to leave. A layer of fog makes it even harder, but our pilot blows through the gray mist at less than 500 feet for a low-level flight across Vancouver Island, above Nanaimo, over the Strait of Georgia, past the mouth of the Fraser River to the South Terminal at Vancouver International Airport. My wife is asleep in the seat. I can’t take my eyes off the view—mountains, lakes and saltwater. We packed an amazing amount of recreation, relaxation, fishing, new sights and newer acquaintances into such a short long weekend. I could do this again!
Ucluelet Chamber www.uclueletinfo.com 250-726-4212
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Open Letter To Anyone Who Cares About Wild Sustainable Salmon “There used to be millions of wild salmon in the waters of the Pacific Northwest. Now, there’s only a fraction of that. Where have all the salmon gone? That’s the question I, Duke Moscrip, owner of Duke’s Chowder House have been asking lately, and we want to know the answer. That’s why we at Duke’s support the non-profit organization, Long Live the Kings, who are committed to answering that question. Their mission is to restore wild salmon and steelhead. Think about this: one of our most important food sources is endangered and is threatened with extinction. And, without salmon, there will be no Orca Whales. Now is the time to support the efforts of Long Live the Kings. I urge you to give now to support the restoration and preservation of our wild salmon. If we don’t do it, who will? Let’s not take the risk that our salmon disappear forever. Help me by helping Long Live the Kings. Together we can move mountains and restore our wild salmon back to our waters.” Visit http://lltk.org/support-us to donate today and support our salmon!”
Searching For The World’s Finest Seafood Is Duke’s Passion. “Sustainability is personal to me. I will do everything I can to make sure that we have Wild Seafood for our grandchildren and our grandchildren’s grandchildren forevermore. I know you are hungry for better seafood. That’s why I go to Alaska and fish with the fishermen and women in order to bring you the best seafood on the planet. I want you to personally experience the taste of the best and invite you to visit any of our six locations where I guarantee sustainable seafood with exceptional flavor.” ALKI 206-937-6100 LAKE UNION 206-382-9963
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Homer, Alaska Our Odyssey to a Very Friendly Place (Part Two) by Russ Young
I
found myself in what most people would consider a nightmarish situation: I was in the wilds of Alaska, no more than 15 feet away from a hungry brown bear, and I could see another four that were equally engrossed with finding something to eat. But I was livin’ a dream, standing on a viewing platform at Brooks Falls in Katmai National Park, taking pictures
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at a frenetic pace along with a dozen or so other tourists. The bears were too busy trying to fill up on stream-fresh salmon and berries to pay attention to us. And because of strict park rules about human contact with the bears, these impressive beasts don’t consider human visitors to be a source of food. Or at least that’s what the rangers told us ...
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Our day started with a pre-flight briefing by Bald Mountain Air Service’s owner Gary Porter, a native Alaskan who mixes a wonderful sense of humor with the serious business of his passengers’ safety. We were in the cozy quarters of Bald Mountain Air Service, one of several seaplane companies that are located on Homer’s Beluga Lake.
Our group of bear-watchers, including some from Spain, Italy and Slovenia, flew to the park on a pair of de Havilland Twin Otters, usually within sight of each other, taking in some breathtaking scenery, including a closeup lap around the Augustine Volcano. After a 90-minute flight, we landed our planes on Naknek Lake, got on the beach with dry feet, and met the enthusiastic and knowledgeable park rangers. After a short briefing on bearsafety protocols, we were on our own to walk the mile-long trail to the falls, with the possibility of meeting brown bears between the visitor center and the viewing platform. (There were no bear encounters, but plenty of signs that they had been along the trail.) After a few hours of taking in lifelong memories of the bears fishing and
foraging, it was back to Homer and Beluga Lake. For floatplane lovers, the lake offers a virtual smorgasbord of de Havillands and Cessnas, and most days they can see dozens of takeoffs and landings, just minutes from the town’s commercial area and the four-and-one-half mile-long Homer Spit. (Homer’s airport is adjacent to the lake, so don’t be surprised if you hear the sound of small jet airplanes.) That mix of traditional Alaska—propeller-driven floatplanes and big bears— and the very contemporary—private jets—is indicative of what Homer has to offer. The town provides so many opportunities for recreation, relaxation and discovery that it’s very challenging to take it all in, let alone describe it to someone who’s never been there.
There’s a vibrant cultural scene for those in search of music, theater and/ or visual art. It seems as if there are too many small art galleries to count. The town’s largest historic building is home to the Bunnell Arts Center, a nonprofit organization dedicated to arts education and advocacy. There you’ll find performance and gallery space, solo and group exhibits, workshops and lectures, and director Asia Freeman. She’s a Homer native who was educated at Yale University and the Vermont College of Fine Arts, then returned home to indulge in her passion for painting, as well as curating. The Arts Center is involved in such diverse projects as “Decolonizing Alaska,” an exploration by native and nonnative artists of how the state’s identity was shaped and defined by centuries
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of colonization, to “Peonies on Pioneer,” a collection of floral murals and gardens on Homer’s Pioneer Street. (The town aims to become the “Peony Capital of the World,” a diverse addition to its moniker as the “Halibut Capital of the World.” Because of the climate, the big flowers “bloom just in time for the wedding season,” says Jan Knutson, manager of the Homer Visitors Center.) The award-winning Pratt Museum offers indoor exhibits of local and natural history, ranging from homesteading and quilting, to native culture and fishing. There are even remote-controlled cameras that allow visitors to sneak a peek at birds on Kachemak Bay and Gull Island. (Worthy of note: all of the interactive exhibits actually worked! There’s nothing more disappointing, especially for kids, to push a button at a museum and have nothing happen. Kudos to the museum’s designers and staff.) 24
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Venture down the hill toward Kachemak Bay, and you’ll find the Islands & Ocean Visitor Center, a window into the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge. The Center isn’t just about indoor exhibits and displays; they’ll take you out for ranger-led hikes to the tidelands of Bishop’s Beach. Getting hungry? There is no shortage of restaurants in town, including BBQ, Mexican, Thai and Japanese food, but if you’re a seafood lover you’re going to want to indulge. We had two particularly memorable meals on the Homer Spit: finishing off a long day of travel with wonderfully fresh fish, simply prepared, at Captain Patties (they’ll even cook your catch for you), and an incredible sine-waveon-a-skewer of fried lingcod at Boardwalk Fish and Chips. (I know; that’s a weird description. But I’ll say it without hesitation—it was the best fried fish I’ve ever eaten. Great “chips,” too!)
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While you’re on the Spit, notice the campgrounds that accommodate tents and RVs, the broad array of retail shops, the fishing-charter and outdoor-adventure operators, the “Fishing Hole,” and the spectacular views across Kachemak Bay to the Kenai Mountains. While you’re there, take a stroll around Homer Harbor, home to recreational motor vessels and sailboats, charter-fishing operators, and the commercial fishing fleet. It also hosts tankers and freighters, as well as cruise ships and the Alaska State Ferries. Port Director/Harbormaster Bryan Hawkins is proud of the city’s commitment to adding walking paths and new restroom facilities to make the area more inviting to visitors and residents alike. An Oregon native who succumbed to the lure of the “Last Frontier” in the 1970s, he’s a former commercial fisherman and captain-for hire. Today, he and his staff are responsible
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for management, maintenance and 24-hour security, as well as plans for growth and diversification for the 950acre port area, which is subject to tidal changes of nearly 30 feet. There are so many more stories to tell about Homer: riding a vintage ferry to Halibut Cove, for dinner at The Saltry; the friendly couple who make great fruit wines; sleeping on a shrimp boat high above Kachemak Bay; and taking a helicopter ride to the foot of a glacier, that I can’t possibly share them all with you now. So how about this: during 2017, look forward to more stories in HARBORS about our Alaskan odyssey to Homer, a very friendly place.
Plan your trip: Homer Chamber 907.235.7740 www.homeralaska.org Bald Mountain Air Service 907.235.7969 www.baldmountainair.com
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CATHIE ULMER Port of Homer Commisioner
Cathie Ulmer was born to a homestead family north of Homer, when Alaska was still a U.S. Territory. (The “49th State” achieved that status in 1959.) She was one of seven siblings and her family lived a subsistence lifestyle, with food harvested from the sea and the land. Cathie attended a one-room school for grades 1 through 8. She remembers the drive to Homer with her family to sell hand picked wild blueberries as “scary,” due to dirt roads and steep hills. Cathie was adventurous at a young age—and still is. She moved to the “big city” of Anchorage where she worked in radio and TV. Cathie bought a van and traveled North and South America for five years, cooking on her camp stove and exploring. She discovered that what she loved most was the coast and the mountains, and was drawn back to Alaska. She delved into natural medicine and healing, and is a certified Health Coach and Nutritional Microscopist. Today she drives a
Volkswagen motorhome and continues her adventures, visiting family and friends in the “Lower 48.” Cathie met the love of her life, Scott Ulmer, in Anchorage and they moved to Homer to establish their own business: Ulmer’s Drug and Hardware Store. It’s often said in Homer, “If you can’t find it at Ulmer’s, you don’t need it.” They’ve raised four children and have two grandkids, who are precious in
their lives. Cathie served under two Alaska governors on the state’s Public Broadcast Commission for five years. She and Scott are stalwart volunteers, having founded the Alaskan Center for Coastal Studies, and serving on the boards of the Pratt Museum, and the Homer Chamber of Commerce. They also founded the Chamber’s Annual Winter King Tournament, now in its 24th year with 1,400 anglers coming to Homer for a one-day fishing frenzy during the third week of March. In 2016, Cathie and Scott were the grand marshals of Homer’s 2016 July 4th parade, waving to a crowd of more than 2,000 from a helicopter, perched on a long trailer. One of Cathie’s favorite spots is the 4-1/2-mile-long Homer Spit. She enjoys talking with locals as well as visitors, and serves in an official capacity as chair of the City of Homer Port and Harbor Commission. In her serene moments, Cathie sips tea in the Ulmer’s home greenhouse, and tends to the expansive gardens and landscaping around their hillside home overlooking Kachemak Bay.
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Quadra Island’s Heriot Bay Inn 100 Years and Counting! by Alison Gardner
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I
t was a cloudless late-summer afternoon as our 32-foot Bayliner approached Heriot Bay on the east side of Quadra Island’s long southern finger. Captain Laurent Goldstein slowed our boat to make way for a BC Ferries vessel completing its 45-minute run from neighboring Cortes Island, another one of the tightly-packed cluster known as the Discovery Islands, between mid-Vancouver Island and the BC mainland. Eager to keep to schedule, the ferry made a beeline for the government dock next door to the
Heriot Bay Inn. Its full-facility marina was our destination. We were soon marching up the ramp to investigate the Inn, which proudly celebrated its 100th birthday in 2016. Its 5.5 acres of waterfront property include the inn with comfortablyrenovated sleeping accommodation; the HBI Pub, a popular watering hole with both locals and visitors; and the Herons Dining Room, which offers both indoor and outdoor tables, with a menu that invariably generates accolades on international booking and
review websites from satisfied guests. In correspondence before my trip, I noticed that Lois Taylor’s title read “General Manager and Community Custodian.” Naturally, I was curious to search her out and learn what that meant. We met in the traditional, woodpaneled pub over a glass of Quadra Island Iced Tea. Before I took a sip and startled my taste buds, Lois assured me that this is their most popular summer refresher, consisting of Jameson Irish Whiskey, peach schnapps, lime, ginger ale and mint. Delicious!
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Welcoming formalities accomplished, Lois explained that the present ownership arrangement took form in 2008 with 20 “custodians” as shareholders in the inn. “We joke that we’re hippies gone corporate,” she chuckled. “Almost all the custodians live on Quadra Island or they own summer homes here. In our minds, that makes the inn communityowned, so we consider ourselves more like caretakers of a community resource. Most owners work at the inn or marina, some full time, others seasonally, so they have firsthand knowledge of what systems at the inn or the marina need to be changed, or they spot what needs repair or replacement.” I asked, how do boaters and inn arrivals by car and ferry find HBI? “Word of mouth is a big one, plus guidebooks and our website,” shared Lois. “Sixty percent of marina guests are return clients from both the U.S. and Canada. The marina is most busy May through September, but it is open year-round.” I also decided to search out a couple of these guests who keep tying up at the marina year after year; they weren’t difficult to find. Hailing from West Vancouver, BC, Bruce McLean cruises between Mexico and Alaska aboard his 60-foot motor yacht. For 25 years, the inn has been a regular stop for Bruce and his family. “We love Quadra Island and the Heriot Bay Inn’s location on the edge of Desolation Sound,” he said. “It is truly one of the world’s premier cruising grounds. The Heriot Bay Inn is close to outstanding anchorages and parks, and it is an historic resort that maintains all the charm of days gone by.” Bruce’s endorsement of the inn and marina reaches well beyond a wordof-mouth mention to a few family members and friends. “Over the past decade, we have hosted three music festivals for family and friends by invitation only, including dinners and beverages for more than 400 guests. We keep coming back for all that this property has to offer!” 30
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In the right season, anyone can rent the entire inn including three new selfcatering cabins, all for $1,000 ... and that’s in Canadian dollars. Bluewater cruisers John and Diane Lugsdin first visited the inn ten years ago and have tied up their 43-foot cutter-rigged sailboat at the marina for the past seven years. Living on Salt Spring Island near Victoria, they too consider the inn a magical piece of a Pacific coast they know well. “There is nowhere else in my experience,” declared John, “that combines an historic, charming inn with an absolutely rocking pub and first-class restaurant. Aside from a well-protected harbor, the marina provides reasonably priced fuel, some of the sweetesttasting water anywhere to fill our water tanks, and proximity to a onestop grocery store for provisioning—whether you are heading east to Desolation Sound, north to Haida Gwaii or Alaska, or south down the Georgia Strait.”
For those who have only visited the Heriot Bay Inn’s marina in the past, the docks have improved tremendously; for example, with replacement of the outside finger, now much wider and more stable. The work by those ever-busy custodians continues with plans to further upgrade the fingers as well as replace the pier and ramp. Quadra Island has a permanent population of about 2,500: a vibrant mix of both First Nations people whose ancestors have lived in the area for thousands of years, and the descendants of European explorers and settlers who “discovered” and mapped the region beginning 200 years ago. In recent decades, Quadra has attracted many resident artists and artisans who welcome visitors into their studios, galleries and farms. There are fairs, festivals and farmer’s markets for all to enjoy, especially between May and September. A must-visit is SouthEnd Farm, a working vineyard and micro-winery with a tasting room
Dine, Play, Stay and Live.
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to sample some award-winning wines. A jewel in Quadra Island’s crown is the opportunity for visitors to experience First Nations culture at Cape Mudge village with its exceptional Nuyumbaleese Cultural Centre and museum of preserved treasures, masks and regalia, as well as active totempole carving sheds. There are guided tours and cultural programs suitable for children and adults. Robyn Mawhinney, the inn’s marketing and design manager, is enthusiastic about the extensive walking-trail network enjoyed by islanders and visitors alike. These well-maintained trails go through fern gullies and mossy forests, along rocky bluffs overlooking windswept beaches, and up mountains to unparalleled views. Within an
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easy walk from the inn, Rebecca Spit Marine Provincial Park is a memorable mix of sandy beaches for strolling, walking trails and picnicking. Serving boaters, the inn is an important Quadra Island location point with a full grocery store a five-minute walk away. It also has a post office, liquor store, a deli and bakery. As a bonus, there is free delivery to the dock. Equally close by is Island Cycle, offering motorized and standard bikes for rent, and Quadra Island Kayaks, which offers guided full-day, half-day and sunset cruises. In season, the inn arranges whale and grizzly bear watching tours, and salmon fishing charters. For golfers in the boating community, the nine-hole Quadra Island Golf Course offers a complimentary shuttle from the inn. Indeed, there is so much to do when you tie up at the Heriot Bay Inn’s marina! I’ll echo a TripAdvisor comment from October 2016: “I am enchanted by its uniqueness, like reading a very good book.”
When you go: Heriot Bay Inn www.heriotbayinn.com Discovery Islands Tourism www.discoveryislands.ca Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre www.nuyumbalees.com Quadra Island Golf Course www.quadragolf.com SouthEnd Farm Vineyards www.southend.ca Quadra Island Kayaks www.quadraislandkayaks.com Island Cycle www.quadraislandcycle.com BC Ocean Boating Tourism www.ahoybc.com
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Skagway to Ketchikan
Alaska
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On the Waterfront Waterfront Living in the Pacific Northwest
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The Nest Lake Washington’s Leschi Neighborhood Seattle, WA by Russ Young
If “walking the gangplank” doesn’t sound like a particularly attractive invitation, you’ve never met Penny and Paul Fredlund. Or walked their gangplank. It’s how the couple describe coming up to the front door of “The Nest”— their wonderful water-view home in Seattle’s Leschi neighborhood. It’s not so much a gangplank as it is a small land-bridge, but the concept was to make entering the house a bit like boarding a cruise ship: “Feeling like we’re leaving on a vacation every day that we walk into our home,” Penny said. And then there’s the front door. It’s a Dutch door, split horizontally so that the bottom can be closed while the top is open. Actually, it’s what Paul and Penny call a “French-Dutch door” since there is an adjacent vertical panel that opens to create a wider, and even more inviting, entrance into the home. The Dutch door is one several elements that is reminiscent of the original early 20th-century hillside cottage
Homeowners Penny and Paul Fredlund
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that stood on the lot. The Fredlunds purchased it in 2004, with the intention of tearing it down and rebuilding on the site, but they committed themselves to living in it—shaky foundation and all—for two years. That was so that they would become familiar with the lighting and the views in order to recognize the full potential that the property would offer to a new structure. The two years spent getting in touch with the site is one of several steps that the couple took in defining what they wanted in a new house, and part of a highly collaborative working relationship with Seattle architect John DeForest (see sidebar). Their architect gave them homework assignments, including a request that Penny and Paul first list everywhere they had ever lived, then quickly describe the five spaces that meant the most to them. (Penny described a cozy reading space; Paul a room that connected him with the outdoors. Not surprisingly, they happily point out the areas in “The Nest” that correspond with those memories. She leads one to a small space that has a big view of Lake Washington; he shows off the folding window-wall that connects the dining area with an outdoor deck. Even the name of the house was part of DeForest’s assignments; he and his staff like to have a name for every project. “The Nest” was a natural, since the Fredlunds were emptynesters who still wanted to live a full life. Paul added, smiling, “that it used up our nest egg.” And part of the decor is pictures and some of Penny’s collection of birds’ nest, including those featured in a DeForest-designed bedroom dresser that encases several under glass. Rather than dwelling on the types of woods or tiles used, or the kinds of appliances that are installed, the Fredlunds love to talk about the joys of working with their architect. “We loved the entire process, from initial 42
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concept through completion and occupancy. It was exhilarating to observe,” Paul said. When the couple would make suggestions that DeForest wasn’t so sure about, “He’d say, ‘We could do that ...’ ” said Penny. “He has a wonderful way of protecting you from bad ideas, and giving you so much credit for the good ones,” explained Paul. One example: the couple thought that a guest suite should be on the upper level, along with the master suite. The architect gently steered them away from the idea, and now they recognize the value of having guests stay on the main floor, giving them privacy but easy access to the living room. That master suite has a magnificent easterly view that stretches from Mount Baker to the north to Mount Rainier to the south. Even the large windows in the master-bath shower were carefully oriented to maximize The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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the view of 14,000-foot-plus Mount Rainier. (One neighbor can see up toward the shower, but the wall below provides a reasonable level of modesty. “Besides, she’s in my book club,” chuckled Penny.) There’s also a cozy office and an expansive deck that shares the same view; “it’s our outdoor room during the summer,” said Paul. On the main floor, the open-plan is punctuated by some small room dividers that define spaces and provide intimacy without doors or interfering with a sense of connectivity. There’s a elm dining table by Meyer Wells with a unique x-shaped base—“no one has to sit straddling a table leg,” Penny pointed out—that can be greatly expanded by adding some clamp-on plywood panels designed by a family friend. There’s also Penny’s cozy reading space and a seating area that the Fredlunds refer to simply as the “white chairs,” where they can be found sipping coffee and reading the The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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New York Times, or sharing wine, conversation and a view of the Bellevue city skyline. The Fredlunds lived in the general vicinity of their lake-view home for nearly 35 years, owning a large colonial home designed by the iconic architect Ellsworth Storey. So although their latest house is a generous 2,500 square-feet, they had to learn to downsize. And in the process, they found that they could downsize with great relish. Spending two years in the original cottage on the site was instructive, since it was less than half the size of the new home. “We put a lot of stuff in storage, and then realized how little we missed most of it,” said Penny. “I was often asking myself, “How many frying pans do you really need?” (Her answer: four; two big and two little.)
“It’s usually just the two of us here, so we don’t really need much,” Paul said. “But we’ve had as many as 40 guests over, so we can entertain big groups. I just borrow what I need,” added Penny. And she likes to demonstrate how easily she can unload the dishwasher into open shelves and drawers, calling the layout “shockingly efficient.” Although the couple are longtime Pacific Northwesterners, they’re not natives. Paul, a retired endocrinologist, is originally from Minneapolis. Penny, who studied biology and worked at both the Library of Congress and Seattle’s Pacific Science Center, was born and raised in Ohio. They met on a blind date when they both lived and worked in Washington, DC. Paul was offered a job at a Seattle hospital, and the rest is history.
JOHN DeFOREST DeForest Architects, Seattle
Seattle architect John DeForest was one of those kids who would take things apart and put them back together again, which led to a desire to “invent things.” So when he attended Yale University, he initially studied electrical engineering, but added architecture as a second major. In doing so, he discovered that his true passion was for the process of working with architectural clients in defining and designing spaces for living and working. “There was always so much energy and creative collaboration in the architectural studio, I wondered, why can’t our clients share in the fun? Besides, the architect isn’t a sole genius who just scribbles out a design.” That collaboration with clients includes getting their “spatial histories;” i.e., an inventory of the places they’ve lived and what made them
Despite their Midwestern roots, the Fredlunds certainly live like true Seattleites. They enjoy watching sunrises and Lake Washington boat traffic from their decks, and point out they can get their kayaks from their garage to the lake in four minutes so they can paddle to pick the best blackberries. There’s a Prius in driveway, and a small lending-library in the front yard, (It was designed and built by their son Jon, who also created most of the paintings that hang in the house.) “What we were seeking in a house was a place that would be cozy for two, but comfortable for a crowd,” said Penny. And after walking the gangplank and spending time with she and Paul, it’s hard to believe that any visitor would not wholeheartedly agree that they have succeeded.
memorable. John says the memories can range from “the warmth of the sun in Grandma’s window seat” to “snow falling in a courtyard.” “I think there’s a common misconception that an architect has an agenda that is contrary to what you want. We work with people to answer the question, “How is this project going to change your life?’ That might mean getting closer to nature, or closer as a family. At the same time, we have to translate memories and feelings into designs that work for our clients, from adequate storage space to efficiency in daily tasks.” DeForest Architects employs “about a dozen” professionals, and has projects in the familiar environs of the Puget Sound region, but also in Oregon, Montana and on the shore of Lake Michigan. Their work is both residential and commercial; “the common thread is our approach, rather than the building type.” He hasn’t completely abandoned his “dweeby engineer side.” John said that his firm is harnessing virtual reality as a means of allowing clients “to walk through” the design prior to construction. “A lot of questions can be answered by putting on a VR headset.” A Seattle native who attended the Harvard Graduate School of Design after graduating from Yale, John said life on the East Coast gave him a new love for the Pacific Northwest upon his return in 1999. “I hadn’t appreciated the environment; the mountains and islands, the sound of water hitting rocks. Now it’s such a privilege to work in places like the San Juan Islands. I feel a native son’s obligation to do right by such places in terms of design and construction.”
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Gig Harbor Marina and Boatyard by Deane Hislop
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O
nce you visit Gig Harbor, Washington, you’ll understand why the city has been called a maritime village. But being kown as a sleepy fishing town is more of a tribute than actual description. Known as the most picturesque harbor in the Northwest, with its backdrop of Mount Rainer and idyllic scenery, Gig Harbor is an appealing, relaxing destination with lots to see and do. Smithsonian Magazine has named Gig Harbor as one of the top small towns for culture, heritage and charm. Located approximately 45 miles southwest of Seattle, it’s easily accessible for day trips or for weekend getaways. The town also boasts one of the most perfectly protected harbors in Puget Sound, with one of the most extensive
and sheltered anchorages. The sandy and muddy bottom provides excellent holding for the anchor. But it’s hard to beat spending time at the Gig Harbor Marina and Boatyard. The marina/boatyard got its start in 1905 as Skansie’s Ship Building Company. As the fishing-boat repair shop grew, it became the largest of its kind on Puget Sound and secured the contract to build the first Washington State Ferries. Today it’s a full-service marina and boatyard centrally located in beautiful Gig Harbor, offering 106 slips, a 50 metric-ton Marine Travellift, and a special work area for do-it-yourselfers—which is rare nowadays. They’re the only full service haul-out and repair facility in Gig Harbor.
In addition to the boatyard facilities they offer a covered outdoor event space which has hosted a wide range of events, including weddings, graduation and retirement parties, overlooking the harbor and Skansie Brothers Park. The marina and boatyard also offer guest moorage in unoccupied slips. It is suggested that you call ahead for reservations. Guests can also take advantage of 30- and 50-amp power, water out on the docks, garbage service, and recently renovated restrooms and showers. Located in the marina is JW Trolley with its mouthwatering aromas of 7 Seas beer-battered cod and chips, lobster rolls and apple-cider pulled pork filling the air. You can take it to go, or dine al fresco at the picnic tables in
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What’s in A Name? During a heavy storm in 1840, Captain Charles Wilkes, an American naval officer and leader of the United States Exploring Expedition of 18381842—commonly known as the “Wilkes Expedition”—brought his small boat, a ”gig,” into the harbor for protection. When Wilkes’ map of the Oregon Territory was published in 1841, he understandably named the sheltered bay “Gig Harbor.”
the grassy area next to the converted trolley car. The central downtown location also puts many delicious options and shopping all within easy walking distance of the marina. This harborside community is very walkable. During the summer season (Memorial Day through Labor Day), hop on the street trolley that comes through town and explore the town’s other areas, including the West Side, which is home to Uptown Gig Harbor and Point Fosdick Square shopping center. Three vintage-style trolleys on wheels have been outfitted for the service. To complete the nostalgic experience, the trolley conductors wear special uniforms and call out many of the stops the old-fashioned way. The trolley runs every 30 minutes, dogs and bicyclists are welcome, and you can ride it all day long for a dollar. Sure, there are hints along the waterfront about the village’s quiet days, and downtown does pay tribute to the town’s heritage. But there’s nothing sleepy about it, downtown is a vibrant destination where commercial and recreational activities, history and community events all happily collide. Quaint specialty shops sprinkled along the waterfront and beyond offer hours of browsing for gifts, home décor, jewelry, apparel, antiques and the list goes on. Indulge your sweet tooth or visit the many art galleries for just the right artsy souvenir. In between, treat the kids to ice cream, grab a latte or a homemade muffin, or stop in at one of the many restaurants for casual or fine dining atmosphere. A visit to the iconic Tides Tavern is a must. “You never need to wonder if there is something going on in Gig Harbor,” said Karen Scott, tourism and communications director for the City of Gig Harbor. There’s always something fun to do here.” No matter the time of the year of your visit, you’ll discover something to do. Winter includes a lighted boat parade
First Settlers In 1867, Sam Jerisich, Peter Goldsmith and John Farrague were fishing in Puget Sound when bad weather prompted them to seek shelter in Gig Harbor. They liked what they saw and decided to make it their home, becoming the first white people to settle in the harbor. The original inhabitants of the harbor were the Native Americans who lived in a village at the head of the bay.
and Santa visit. Celebrate the spring and fall seasons with unique events ranging from the blessing of the fishing fleet to the beer festival. Summer brings outdoor movies, several festivals, a farmer’s market and wine tastings. There are year-round art walks and self-guided walking tours. For history buffs all roads lead to the waterfront, where you’ll discover a historic boatbuilding shop, net lockers and a stateof-the-art, 7,000 square-foot maritime museum. If you’re looking to impress your sweetheart, or just do something fun and unique, look no further than the harbor’s newest water attraction, the Gig Harbor Gondola. “Gig Harbor has a beautiful waterfront and seeing it from the water is a different The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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When you visit: Gig Harbor Marina and Boatyard – www.gigharbormarina.com JW@The Boatyard – www.jwgigharbor.com Gig Harbor Guide – www.gigharborguide.com Harbor History Museum – www.harborhistorymuseum.com Gig Harbor Gondola – www.gigharborgondola.com
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perspective of the beauty the harbor has,” said John “Cinque” Synco, a gondolier in the harbor. Identical to the boats that travel the water of Venice, Gig Harbor now has its own gondola experience. Synco started his business in in the harbor in 2015 after rowing gondolas for 14 years and even traveling to Venice himself. He says his gondola is one of only 26 authentic boats in the U.S. “I was rowing for two years before I went to Venice, and when I got there the gondoliers in Venice taught me so much,” he said. “It became an obsession. I’ve studied and practiced for many years.” During his hour-long cruise, Synco offers appetizers, and encourages riders to bring their own food and wine for a real “Italian” experience. It’s a memorable way to experience a truly wonderful Pacific Northwest harbor town.
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Stewart’s Lodge and Tweedmuir Air by Cindy Phillips and Gordon Baron
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estled in British Columbia’s interior, 250 air-miles north of Vancouver, is the wilderness adventure center of Nimpo Lake. With more than 100 alpine lakes within 25 minutes by air, Nimpo Lake has become the floatplane base for the ultimate rainbow trout fly-fishing adventure. This is one of the busiest fly-out lake destinations in the province and has become known as the “Floatplane Capital of British Columbia.” This is home to the First Nations “Carrier” people. Explorer Alexander Mackenzie and his voyageurs passed through the area using the ancient trade route of the First Nations Nuxalk-Carrier “Grease Trail” in 1793 on his historic journey to the Pacific Ocean. The start of BC’s gold rush in the late 1850’s bought prospectors by steamship from California to Vancouver to the remote village of Bella Coola. They
used the Grease Trail to climb the 5,000-foot pass to the Chilcotin Plateau on their way to the gold fields in BC’s interior towns of Horsefly, Quesnel and Barkerville. Pioneering families came from Europe to settle on the 220 miles of rolling hills in the Chilcotin Plateau, stretching west from the Fraser River to the Coast Mountain Range using the wagon road known as the “Freedom Highway” (now Highway 20) from Williams Lake, or the rugged Grease Trail from Bella Coola. They raised cattle to feed the rapid increasing population of workers in the gold fields. Nimpo is also known as “Cattle Country:” a land of cowboys and cowgirls riding the range, working on their family’s homesteads, where cattle and horses graze on miles of grassland. Historic buildings, barns and equipment are spread across the vast land-
scape of the plateau. In 1953 Bob and Ginney Stewart started a fishing lodge on Nimpo Lake using tents and rowboats, which were soon replaced with log cabins. By 1958, floatplanes became an integral part of the Stewarts’ operation, setting up remote wilderness cabins called “outposts” on nearby lakes and rivers. Their son Duncan and his wife Rhonda took over the operation in 1979. There are 10 guest log cabins surrounding the lodge, ranging from selfcontained one-bedroom units to luxurious two- and three-bedroom cabins overlooking the lake and the Coast Mountain Range. The village of Anahim Lake is 10 miles west of Stewart’s Lodge. This is the main airport for the Chilcotin region. Pacific Coastal Airlines has regularly scheduled flights connecting this wilderness paradise to Vancouver. Duncan supplies a free shuttle for his
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guests between Anahim Lake airport and the lodge. When we arrived in mid-August the sun was shining through the treetops, morning mist was rising off the lake, and the rainbow trout were jumping out of the water. To top this off, we heard the beautiful sounds of loons on the lake. It felt like the set of a great wilderness movie. Stewart’s Lodge sits at 3,655 feet of elevation, overlooking Nimpo Lake and the floatplane base of Tweedsmuir Air. The lodge has warm, welcoming atmosphere. The dining room seats 16. The den is set up in a fishing/hunting theme, complete with books on the local history and the area’s pioneers. As we watched from the lodge’s front deck after sunrise, Tweedsmuir Air was busily shuttling passengers to Turner Lake for a multi-day, sevenlake paddling adventure. Duncan has set up the Turner Lake Chain with canoes, supplies and cabins. He has 25 other remote getaways outfitted with boats and motors, and has guiding rights to 66 lakes and eight rivers and streams. BC Parks has upgraded the trails in the area leading to Hunlen Falls from the north end of Turner Lake. The 1,316-foot vertical drop of the falls is the highest in Canada. The falls are located in Tweedsmuir Park, BC’s largest Provincial Park. The park is a magnet for wilderness en- thusiasts. It’s an outdoor destination for fishing, hunting, paddling, hiking, horse-pack trips in the Rainbow Mountain Range and aerial sightseeing. Stewart’s Lodge offers fly-out packages of three to seven days, which includes fishing at a different lake every full day of your stay, a boat and motor, a cabin on Nimpo Lake and three meals a day. Or you can stay at one of the four outpost lakes that have cabins, boats and motors, docks and supplies. The lodge also has an a la carte rate for travelers that want to assemble their own packages. Duncan Stewart started Tweedsmuir 58
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Air in 1988 with a small fleet of floatplanes consisting of two de Havilland Beavers and a Cessna 185. His floatplane base supplies overnight docking, fuel, meals and accommodations for the air traveler. During the summer, his planes are busy flying his guests from Stewart’s Lodge as well as twelve other lodges, resorts and outfitters to the remote wilderness lakes, rivers and streams in the outbacks around Nimpo Lake. The most popular destinations are the Turner Lake Chain in Tweedsmuir Park. This can be for a 30-minute hike to Hunlen Falls or paddling adventures of up to five days. Eliguk Lake is popular for fishing, hunting and hiking. But the most famous destination is flyfishing on the Dean and Blackwater Rivers. The Dean River flows 151 miles from Nimpo Lake north and west through the rugged Coast Mountain Range, and empties into the headwaters of the Dean Channel on the Pacific Ocean. The Dean River `
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is legendary for rainbow trout at the top end, and world famous at its bottom for strong-fighting steelhead. The Blackwater River is known for the great trout fishing and canoeing. This was the Nuxalk-Carrier First Nations Trail or Blackwater Trail, later renamed the “Alexander Mackenzie Heritage Trail.” The 260-mile route connects the interior town of Quesnel with the coastal village of Bella Coola. Tweedsmuir Air drops off hikers in the Rainbow Mountain Range to walk and canoe part of the historic trail following McKenzie’s footsteps of from the summer of 1793. Tweedsmuir Air provides flightseeing tours ranging from 30 to 75 minutes from Nimpo Lake to Hunlen Falls, Monarch Icefields and the Rainbow Range. They also offer charter flights to Mt. Waddington. At 13,186 feet, it is the highest mountain in the Coast Range, drawing mountaineers from around the globe for its challenging ascent. The diverse landscape of alpine meadows, rolling hills, steep mountain peaks and deep valleys, combined with abundant wildlife, pristine remote lakes and streams, and unspoiled natural beauty was a winning combination for us for the ultimate outdoor vacation in BC’s wild west—Canada’s last frontier.
Stewart’s Lodge www.stewartslodge.com 800.668.4335 Tweedsmuir Air www.on-the-fly.com 800.on-the-fly Pacific Coastal Airlines www.pacificcoastal.com 800.663.2872
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HARBO R S happenings HA RB O R S happenings H A R B O R S happenings
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Don’t Miss Our Next Issue March/April 2017 Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle
HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
Alaska Adventure Cabins
Kayaking the Inside Passage
Gorge Harbour Cortes Island, BC
Blind Channel Marina
Waterfront Living Tuna Rampage
USD $6.95 CAN $7.95
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Long Live the Kings BRINGING THEM HOME SINCE 1986
Our mission is to restore wild salmon and steelhead and support sustainable fishing in the Pacific Northwest. Learn more about who we are and what we do at our newly redesigned website: www.lltk.org 206.382.9555 | INFO@LLTK.ORG | FACEBOOK: /LONGLIVEKINGS | TWITTER: @LONGLIVEKINGS
For Your Boat Show Checklist
by Tom Tripp
One of the signs in the boating industry that there has been at least some actual recovery since the implosion caused by the Great Recession is that there are new boats to look at. Here are a couple of the interesting developments.
New All-Weather Boats from Cutwater and Ranger Tugs Fluid Motion’s two brands feature some of the most popular boats on the market these days and each has something new. Cutwater, which builds up-scale, trailerable cruisers, has announced two new boats. the Cutwater 24 Sport Coupe and the Cutwater 30 Sport Coupe. Performance and versatility are the name of the game with these boats – they feature a completely new transom design, an open cabin/cockpit configuration and outboard power. “We like to think of these models as the boating equivalent of a crossover vehicle,” said Jeff Messmer, vice president, Cutwater Boats. “They are sporty yet have all the comforts of a cruising boat so you get the best of both worlds.” The C-24’s open, airy design truly brings the outside in. The roof, side windows, and rear bulkhead all open. The forward cabin features wrap around seating and a high/low table that drops to complete the forward berth. The C-24 provides all the comforts of larger cruising boats with a private head, two sinks with hot and cold water, dropin BBQ grill, microwave, and TV/DVD. Powered by a Yamaha 300 HP outboard, the C-24 is fast and efficient. 68
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Cutwater Boats C-24 Sport Coupe—Cutwater Boats’ new C-24 Coupe is a modern, open and airy outboard cruiser.
Cutwater Boats C-24 Sport Coupe—The new C-24 Sport Coupe features a bright, sunlight-filled interior.
Cutwater Boats C-30 Sport Coupe—The Cutwater C-30 SC sports twin 300 HP outboards and a high-tech hull to move with grace, speed and efficiency.
The C-30 is powered by twin counter-rotating Yamaha 300 HP outboards and features a revised cabin top and cockpit for an open and airy feel. The cockpit is perfect for fishing with its large area, 30-gallon live well, large fish box, rod holders, and sink. Food prep is a breeze with the Eurostyle galley. The C-30 accommodates six on three separate berths, for exceptional privacy and comfort even on extended cruises. On the foredeck, two flush hatches open to reveal cushioned, secure observation seats, along with a central forward lounge. Meanwhile, Ranger Tugs has a new model, the R-23, which incorporates a lot of the recent hull design innovations from the Cutwater models. It’s also outboard powered in the standard configuration, with a 200 HP Yamaha, although there is a 170 HP Volvo diesel sterndrive as an option. The R-23 would be a great choice for a couple or young family looking to get into the cruising
Ranger Tugs R-23—Ranger Tugs’ new R-23 features a new hull design and outboard power.
lifestyle without breaking the bank. It’s efficient enough to be able to afford to travel distances, and fast enough—over 30 mph—that you can take advantage of smaller time windows than the traditional “trawler” owner.
Ranger Tugs R-23—The interior of the new Ranger Tugs R-23 has everything a cruising family needs to explore northwest waters.
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How to Wakeboard Without the Boat And because you always leave a boat show thinking you should have spent more, Swedish company Radinn (Radical Innovation) will put a stylish, self-powered high-speed wakeboard—the Wakejet Cruise— under your feet that will get you out on the water without having to deal with the pesky towboat. For the modest (remember, you don’t have to buy the towboat) sum of €15,000 (roughly $16,200 at current Euro exchange rates), you will get the board, battery power pack, wireless remote, speed charger and a custom board bag with wheels for convenient transport. The board is controlled by the waterproof, handheld wireless unit and will get you moving nearly 30 mph using its extremely quiet electric motor. The company figured out a clever induction-charging system that ensures board and wireless electronics are protected from water intrusion. Check them out on the web at radinn.com. Stop by the HARBORS’ booth, #1132, at the Seattle Boat Show. 70
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Easy for everyone—Radinn’s Wakejet Cruise self-powered wakeboard gets everyone moving via electric waterjet and wireless remote control.
Heelside Turn Miami 2—Expert wakeboarders can carve with the best of them and without the boat.
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Gift Cards Available Are you looking for a SMASHING and AWARD-WINNING Trade Show Exhibit or Display?
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Pacific Northwest Celebrity Chefs
featuring Ned Bell has long been known in Canada’s culinary circles as an outspoken advocate for sustainable seafood, but the dwindling health of the world’s oceans influenced him long before the chef donned his first apron. In fact, according to the newly named Ocean Wise Executive Chef at the Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre, it started before he was even born. “I come from six generations of fishermen in Newfoundland, so why was I born in Penticton, BC? Well, it was because the seafood industry changed.” Bell’s grandfather escaped a collapsing cod industry by heading west and settling in the Okanagan, where Bell grew up. But it wasn’t until decades later that the chef realized how the seafood industry had shaped his own life—and that he had a responsibility to protect this resource for future generations. After graduating from culinary school in Vancouver, Bell worked in top restaurants in Vancouver, Toronto and Calgary just as foodie culture was emerging in Canada. In the kitchens, he saw chefs start to pay close attention 72
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Chef Ned Bell
to sourcing organic local produce and to establish a national sustainable seaethically raised land protein, but when food day in Canada and ensure every it came to fish? “We just didn’t know Canadian has access to sustainable where it came from, we didn’t ask.” seafood within 10 years. Under his The rise of organizations like the new role as executive chef for Ocean Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Wise at the Vancouver Aquarium, Bell Watch and the Vancouver Aquarium’s hopes to continue building on his efOcean Wise program over the last de- forts and create resources his peers cade or so brought sustainable seafood can turn to for advice on issues from to mainstream attenfinding sustaintion, as well as Bell’s. able seafood sup“The history of food is He has long been an pliers to adaptso rooted in culture Ocean Wise ambassaing classic dishes and tradition, to dor and made serving to include sus100 percent sustaintainable species. look at food through able products a con“The history of scientific research is dition of his employfood is so rooted a new thing.” ment when he joined in culture and YEW Seafood + Bar tradition, to look in Vancouver’s Fairmont Pacific Rim at food through scientific research is a hotel in 2011. new thing,” says Bell, who through his Yet when it came to marrying the new role is leading a new conversation science of sustainability with the art- amongst his peers—one that broaches istry of cooking, Bell noticed there the issue of preserving the culture was an opportunity to inspire his peers of food along with the remaining 10 through education and advocacy. With percent of the world’s fish stocks. “I the support of Ocean Wise he started guess what I’m trying to say is that Chefs for Oceans in 2014, which aims chefs trust chefs.”
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Wild BC Salmon
with Cranberry & Honey Pickle on Laird Lentils, Grain Chickpea & Hazelnut Salad This time of year is the end of the wild BC salmon season. It is also the best time of year for tart, gorgeous local cranberries, which make great jams, relishes, chutneys compotes or ketchups for your next fall or winter family meal. Try mixing it up and make a cranberry recipe for your next grilling sauce or as a tasty, in-season condiment. Got extra? It makes a great spread with a cheese plate, or drizzle it over vanilla ice cream for a yummy summer dessert.
LOOK FOR THE OCEAN WISE® SYMBOL FOR THE VANCOUVER AQUARIUM’S ASSURANCE OF AN OCEAN-FRIENDLY SEAFOOD CHOICE. Learn more at oceanwise.ca
Wild BC Ocean Wise Salmon • 4 5-oz pieces of your favourite fresh fish. Ocean Wise salmon is a great pick, or try Ocean Wise halibut or albacore tuna as delicious alternatives. Method Pan sear, BBQ or grill for about 2-3 minutes per side, season with Vancouver Island sea salt and cracked black pepper.
Warm Chickpea, Hazelnut and Laird Lentil Salad • • • • • •
1 cup cooked laird lentils 1 cup cooked chick peas 1 shallot, diced 2 tbsp olive oil 3 tbsp toasted hazelnuts 1 tsp sea salt
Method In a saute pan, sweat the shallots with the olive oil, add the sea salt, the lentils and the chick peas, add the hazelnuts last.
Cranberry & Honey Pickle This can be made with any local fresh seasonal fruit such as apples, pears, and quince. Don’t be afraid to experiment. • • • • • • •
3 cups frozen cranberries 1 cup dried cranberries 1/4 cup honey 1 tsp sea salt 1 tsp cracked black pepper 1 cup cranberry juice 3 tbsp red wine vinegar
Method Cook everything together in a small pot for 15 minutes, cool before serving. Build your plate with the warm salad, place the salmon on top, add the cranberry pickle and enjoy! The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Destinations
Seaplane & Boating
Lakefront Anchorage Hotel, Anchorage, Alaska
The Lakefront Anchorage Hotel, a Millennium Hotel, is a luxurious 3-star property located minutes from the Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport in Anchorage, Alaska. The hotel is strategically located on Hood Lake, which is a hub for seaplanes carrying passengers year-round to and from Anchorage, whether for fishing, skiing or other adventures in remote areas throughout the state. A number of fishing lodges and resorts have small kiosks or standalone structures along the lakeside in front of the hotel from which their 74
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guests can embark and disembark from seaplanes going to and from their secluded locations. If you are lucky enough to get a room with a view of Hood Lake, you will experience a pageant of seaplane activity in and out of the lakefront. Hood Lake is a state-owned seaplane base with its own control tower. It is the world’s busiest seaplane base, handling an average of 190 flights per day, and during the winter months the frozen lake surface is maintained for ski-equipped airplanes. But don’t worry about not being able to sleep
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by AJ Hunt
from the sound of planes taking off and landing; the rooms are understandably—and effectively—soundproofed and the lake’s operations are limited to daylight hours. The hotel features a lodge-like milieu of Alaskan heritage, wildlife and taxidermy in the lobby, giving firsttime visitors to the 49th State some remarkable close-up views of bear, moose, deer, sheep and mountain goats, all surrounding a massive stone fireplace. All of these creatures can be seen in the wild while traveling through Alaska.
The hotel has spacious double rooms, and one-bedroom suites offering first-class amenities, including inroom LCD TVs, coffee makers, free Wi-Fi, small refrigerators, private safes and minibars. The service is excellent and very accommodating to travelers, and one noteworthy feature of the Lakefront is that they will store your packed fish in the hotel freezer at no charge, until you are ready to check out and depart for your flight out of Anchorage. There are several unique dining experiences within the property: the Flying Machine Restaurant, Fancy Moose Lounge and the Lakeside Patio. The Flying Machine is inspired by Alaska’s rich heritage of aviation, serving breakfast and dinner menus that offer traditional American cuisine with a distinct Alaskan twist. The menu features fresh seafood, steaks and a variety of other delectable fare. Enticing cocktails and a casual décor allows you to dine and capture the very essence of Alaska. During the summer months dining on the lakefront patio offers lake and mountain views along with a ‘Northern Exposure’ ambiance of enthusiastic travelers. Many are waiting to board a seaplane at the lakefront or have just returned from an exciting Alaskan adventure. It is not unusual to strike up a tableside conversation with travelers wanting to share their experiences in the Last Frontier. And if the conversation lags between bites and sips, just look toward the lake— if there’s not a seaplane taking off or landing, you can be sure that one will be soon.
Lakefront Hotel 4800 Spenard Road Anchorage, AK 99517 907.243.2300 www.millenniumhotels.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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The Fairhaven Village Inn, Bellingham, WA
Located just a few miles south of downtown Bellingham, Washington, the historic Fairhaven district was founded in 1883 by Daniel Jefferson Harris—aka “Dirty Dan.” Although its brick and wood buildings harken back to another era, there’s nothing old-fashioned or stodgy about this lively urban village. Fairhaven has creatively blended the old with the new, and its streets are lined with dozens of shops, restaurants and businesses that cater to both locals and visitors. It’s the ideal overnight or weekend escape; a perfect place to eat, sleep and play. A cozy getaway in the district is the Fairhaven Village Inn, located across the street from Fairhaven Village Green, 76
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a pocket park used for community events. Although constructed in 1998, the hotel blends in nicely with neighboring late 19th-century buildings. The inn’s rooms are spacious and well appointed, many featuring fireplaces. Bayside Guestrooms have balconies with views of the working Fairhaven Harbor, and sunsets over Bellingham Bay and the San Juan Islands. Parkside Guestrooms offer views out to the Village Green and Fairhaven’s historic buildings.The Suite features two rooms, a dining table that accommodates 10, and a jetted tub. Amenities in all rooms include bathrobes; complimentary WiFi, continental breakfast, and parking; and a $5 gift certificate to Village
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by Sue Frause
Books & Paper Dreams. The inn also has a porch on the second floor, along with a library (featuring 24hour coffee and tea) and a small meeting room. Adjacent to the hotel are two fun spots for enjoying a meal or nightcap. Daphne’s (“drinks and a little food”) is a cozy cocktail lounge. Next door is Magdalena’s Creperie, featuring both sweet and savory crepes for breakfast and lunch. The Euro-style cafe prepares all its own vegetables, meats, soups and baked goods from scratch (including Polish pirogis). Across the Village Green is the Colophon Cafe in Village Books; a block away is Purple Smile Wines for wine tasting.
Just down the hill from the Inn at the end of Harris Avenue is the southern terminus of the Alaska Marine Highway at the Bellingham Cruise Terminal, with year-round ferry service to Alaska and seasonal footferries to the San Juan Islands. Amtrak and Greyhound stations are also located here. The nearby 2.3-mile South Bay Trail starts just outside the inn’s doors at 10th and Mill, following the bay all the way to downtown Bellingham. Part of the trail includes the Taylor Avenue Dock in front of The Chrysalis Inn & Spa (a good spot for happy-hour appetizers and libations). From there, make your way to The Woods Coffee for locally roasted java. Going in the other direction is the southbound Interurban Trail, accessed down the street from the inn at 10th at Donavan. It winds seven miles along the creek and Bellingham Bay, ending up at Larrabee State Park on Chuckanut Drive. Pick up a walking map of Fairhaven’s historic buildings and landmarks in the lobby of the hotel. For something a bit more colorful, take the Dirty Dan Harris Fairhaven Walking Tour with Jim Rich, aka “Dirty Dan.” The Historic Fairhaven Association sponsors year-round events, including the Fairhaven Holiday Festival beginning the day after Thanksgiving and the Pacific Northwest Rain Festival in February—celebrating the region’s precipitation with rain-themed poetry, a rain-gear fashion show, home-decorated umbrella contest and even a queen to “reign” over the festivities.
Fairhaven Village Inn 1200 10th Street Bellingham, WA 98225 877.733.1100 www.fairhavenvillageinn.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Granville House Bed and Breakfast, Vancouver, BC
The Vancouver neighborhood of Shaughnessy—where the Granville House Bed and Breakfast is located— is home to some of the city’s stateliest homes. Having been built in 1996, the Granville House is newer than many of its neighbors, but its architecture allows it to blend seamlessly into its surroundings. Owners Randy and Pam Vogel live in half of the three-story, 6,000 square-foot house with their two children. The other half is a B&B containing five bedrooms (each with its own private bathroom), a sitting room and a dining area. The un usually large lot allows plenty of room for complimentary guest parking out back. Although the owners live on site, their living quarters are completely separate from the guest space, so 78
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there isn’t that sense you often have in a B&B that you’re imposing on the hosts’ private life. Letting myself in with a keyless security code, I entered a front foyer that had the serene aura and comfortable elegance of a boutique hotel. When Randy, a Vancouver native who was at the time a mortgage broker, and Pam, who had years of experience in the restaurant industry, decided to get married they created a list of their 10-year goals. When her goal of operating a B&B meshed with his dream of being a home builder, they purchased their first B&B, the nearby Hycroft Suites—formerly a dilapidated care home. They renovated that building as a purpose-built B&B, opening in 2000. In 2006, when the time came to expand the business, they purchased
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by Pat Awmack
Granville House and, once again, did a full renovation. Several key improvements included double-glazed windows which muffle the sound of the busy road outside, as well as an air-exchange system that replaces the air in each room four times an hour, leaving the house virtually free of any potential air pollutants. Each room is modern and airy, and the king-size beds allow for a comfortable night’s sleep. Other amenities include a TV, a room safe, speedy Wi-Fi, a minifridge and so much more. The B&B is located on Granville Street, where an electric trolley bus conveniently stops virtually outside the house. For those in town on business, the journey to the city center is a matter of minutes. The positives of staying here versus in a downtown hotel include the free parking (hotel
parking often feels like it can cost nearly as much a room!), the lack of city hustle and bustle, and access to dozens of excellent restaurants. I enjoyed the feeling of privacy and independence offered by this B&B, but also appreciated knowing that the owners were easily accessible if the need arose. A continental breakfast is available after 5:00 a.m. for early risers; a cooked entrÊe is served at 8:30 for those with a little more time in their schedule. The day I was there Randy brought out freshly baked muffins and individual baked omelettes, spending time chatting with his guests as he made sure our every desire was seen to. Randy—a lifelong member of the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club—appreciates that his lifestyle allows him plenty of time to indulge his passion for sailing his 50-foot sailboat in such events as the Swiftsure International Yacht Race or the Vic-Maui race. The family also spend a lot of time cruising the waters of British Columbia in the summer months, leaving the B&B in the very capable hands of professional inn-sitters. Vancouver is well known for its boatyards and marine facilities, and Randy loves to host other boat owners who are in town having work done on their yachts. The adults-only B&B can also be rented out in its entirety for family reunions and weddings, offering an intimate setting for these events. Granville House is a wonderful option for those looking for an alternative to a large impersonal hotel.
Granville House B&B 5050 Granville Street Vancouver, BC V6M 3B4 866.739.9002 granvillebb.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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PUZZLE SOLUTION (complete puzzle on page 82)
HA R B OR S
The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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CROSSWORD PUZZLE
Solution on page 81
HAR BOR S
ACROSS:
6 Fishing resort on Chichagof Island 7 Cape at south end of Quadra Island 11 Alaska’s most famous bird 12 Bay off Gabriola Island 15 Best seaplane and boating publication 18 Largest on the West Coast 20 Group of islands in Barkley Sound 23 Family that owns Blind Channel Resort 24 Bellingham-based air service to San Juan Islands 26 Capital of British Columbia 28 Entrance to Southeast Alaska 29 South Puget Sound maritime city 30 Home base for Alaska Seaplanes
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DOWN:
1 Holds a boat in place 2 Island along Goletas Channel, BC 3 Destination resort on the Olympic Peninsula 4 Lake near Eaglenook Lodge 5 Seattle chowder house 8 Cape on northern tip of Olympic Peninsula 9 Strait off Port Harvey 10 Bay on Admiralty Island, AK 13 Canadian version of “harbors” 14 Island on Powell Lake, near Powell River 16 Alaska bear camp 17 Historic fishing village near Vancouver, BC 19 Large resort near Anchorage 21 Sound near Tofino 22 Known as the “Harbour City” 25 Pierre’s Resort location 27 Pacific Northwest whales
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