Elegant Travel Greece - Winter 2017/18

ELEGANTGREECE 优雅旅行希腊TRAVEL 冬季2017-2018

WINTER 2017-2018  PRICE €9,90

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WHEN TRAVELLING BECOMES A LAVISH EXPERIENCE 当旅行成为一次奢华的体验

THESSALONIKI MESSOLONGHI

THE GREEK SENSE OF WINTER BEAUTY

塞萨洛尼基 迈索隆吉翁

希腊 冬季恋歌

5th Airport Chief Executives’ Symposium

第五届机场行 政长官研讨会

The annual Airport Chief Executives’ Symposium in Athens, for the 5th consecutive year, under the initiative of the Athens International Airport.

在雅典国际机场的 倡议下，第五届机 场行政长官年度研 讨会在雅典举行。

The top international meeting was held at the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre, the new landmark of the city of Athens. The long-term goals of ACES are to engage in constructive dialogue, to highlight the interdependence between airports and the destinations they serve, as well as the overall contribution of the aviation industry and airports to the economic development of their destinations.

The Athens International Airport, the host and initiator of this institution, presented the five-year period 2013-2017 overview, the developments that have taken place, as well as the outcome of the synergies and partnerships which have contributed to the tourist resurgence and the formation of the new identity for contemporary Athens.

More than 160 leading representatives from the aviation industry and the sectors of finance and tourism responded to the call of this year’s symposium, titled “Western Threats and Eastern Promises”. According to the statements by the Athens International Airport CEO, Yannis Paraschis, the symposium focused on: “...critical issues, which constitute major challenges for tourism and air transport. Our first panel discussed the Brexit issue, mainly focusing on the important impact and repercussions for aviation and tourism. Furthermore, we had the opportunity to exchange data and ideas as regards to the current relations between China and Europe and the prospects as well as the expectations of the Chinese traveler, mainly aiming at identifying those prerequisites needed in order to “unlock” a market of great importance, which, however, is for the time being, yet underdeveloped”.

TOWARDS A CHINESE FRIENDLY At the same time, this year’s 5th ACESAIRPORT Athens was combined with the nomination 建设中国乘客友好型机场 of Athens being among the most attractive In the context of the 5th ACES-ATHENS, destinations globally thanks to a joint effort, the CEO of Athens International Airport, successful collaborations and innovative Dr. Yiannis Paraschis announced all the programmes. As the Athens International important actions that will take place Airport CEO, Mr. Yiannis Paraschis over the next three months and will transform the airport into a truly friendly stated: “...our initiatives for Athens environment for Chinese visitors. are continuing. The fact that Athens 在第五届机场行政长官研讨会上，雅典国 was named the World Book Capital for 际机场首席执行官亚尼斯·帕拉斯基斯 2018 by UNESCO, gives birth to our 先生宣布雅典国际机场将采取全部重要 next initiative: In 2018, the airport will 举措，将机场改造为对中国游客真正友好 reveal another aspect of its corporate 的国际性机场。 entity. Besides connecting destinations, • Method of payment - Alipay/midan airport is primarily connecting people December 2017 付款方式：支付宝（2017 and, in fact, human stories. We therefore 年12月中旬） continue with the #HubOfStories and • Chinese language 中文 #AthensAirPortraits!”

• Navigation/Signage 导航 / 标牌 The 5th ACES was honoured by prominent • Customized food & beverage outlets figures of the international fields of aviation, 定制食品和饮品店 tourism and commercial and travel services as its keynote speakers.

此次顶级国际研讨会在雅典市新地标斯 塔夫罗斯·尼亚科斯基金会文化中心举 行。ACES确定了长期目标为进行建设性 对话，强调机场与所服务目的地之间相 互依存的关系，以及机场对航空业和目 的地经济发展的总体贡献。 作为此次会议的主办方和发起人，雅典 国际机场展示了2013-2017五年期发展 概况，介绍了为促希腊旅游业复苏以及 当代雅典新形象的建立而做出的重大贡 献，突出强调协同效应和建立合作伙伴 关系成果。 来自航空界、财经界和旅游界的160多 位领军人物参与了今年题为“西方威胁 与东方前景”的研讨会。根据雅典国际 机场首席执行官亚尼斯·帕拉斯基斯的 发言，此次研讨会重点为： “……关键问 题，这构成了旅游业和航空运输业的主 要挑战。我们第一小组讨论了英国脱欧 问题，主要侧重于脱欧对航空和旅游业 的重要影响。此外，我们还有机会就中国 和欧洲的关系和前景以及中国旅客的期 望等问题交换了想法，主要目的在于提 前做好准备，先发制人，从而‘解锁’这个 巨大的市场。当然，目前这个市场尚未被 完全开发。” 与此同时，基于各方共同努力、成功的 合作以及创新型计划，今年第五届ACES 提名雅典为全球最有吸引力的目的地之 一。作为雅典国际机场首席执行官，亚 尼斯·帕拉斯基斯先生表示： “……我们 对雅典的积极性举措还在继续。雅典被 联合国教科文组织列为2018年‘世界图 书之都’ ，这一事实促成了我们下一个 举措——2018年，雅典国际机场将揭示 其公司实体的另一个方面。除了连接各 旅行目的地之外，机场主要是将人连接 在一起，实际上，这是关于人与人之间 的故事。因此，我们继续#HubOfStories 和#AthensAirPortraits！” 第五届ACES研讨会主讲嘉宾均为来自 航空、旅游和商务等领域的国际知名人 士。

MR. YIANNIS PARASCHIS, CEO OF THE ATHENS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 亚尼斯·帕拉斯基斯先生，雅典国际机场首席执行官

FROM LEFT: MR. DIMITRIS DIMITRIOU, CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD OF DIRECTORS, AIA, DR. MICHAEL KERKLOH, CEO & PRESIDENT, MUNICH AIRPORT, IOANNA PAPADOPOULOU, COMMUNICATIONS & MARKETING DIRECTOR, AIA, MR. GEORGE KAMINIS AND MR. YIANNIS PARASCHIS

左起：迪米特斯·迪米特里欧先生，雅典国 际机场董事会主席；马克·凯克洛博士，德 国慕尼黑国际机场首席执行官兼总裁；伊 安娜·帕帕都普罗女士，雅典国际机场通 信及营销总监；乔治·卡米尼斯先生和亚 尼斯·帕拉斯基斯先生

MR. KAI CUI, VICE PRESIDENT - EUROPEAN MARKETS, ALIBABA GROUP – FLIGGY 崔凯先生，阿里巴巴集团欧洲市场副总裁

AN EXCLUSIVE WORLD OF PLEASURE WELCOMES YOU! THE ULTIMATE ENTERTAINMENT DESTINATION ON THE TOP OF ATHENS Just 17km from the centre of Athens, the Regency Casino Mont Parnes is located on the top of Mount Parnitha and promises an extraordinary escape. It is the first Greek casino and attracts the most glamorous names of the Greek and international jet set since its first day of operation.

THE BEST GAMES THAT WILL “LIFT YOUR SPIRIT”!

At the Regency Casino Mont Parnes you will find the best games in Europe that will excite you and offer you the ultimate gaming pleasure! Live exciting moments with more than 700 thematic Slot Machines from big companies like Konami, Bally etc and thematic games like Duo Fu Duo Cai and Smash Smash Festival, or experience the intense thrills of the Roulette, Blackjack, Stud poker and Texas Hold’em, the No.1 poker game in the world.

WORLD CLASS HOSPITALITY AT AN ALTITUDE OF “1055”!

The Regency Casino Mont Parnes’ philosophy is based on personal customer care, offering high-standard services and is a typical example of Greek hospitality. Accompanying your every selection is the most breathtaking view of Attica and the exceptional menu of the atmospheric “1055 Café Restaurant”.

The restaurant was named after the Mont Parnes altitude and it constitutes the gastronomic achievement of the Casino. For reservations, please call 2102421055. The most modern cable car in Europe, the only one in Athens, provides you with free and comfortable transport while you enjoy the fabulous view in just 7 minutes.

WE OPERATE 7 DAYS A WEEK: Slot Machines – 24 hours operation, Table games from 12:00 to 06:00 – Monday to Friday, Weekend – 24 hours operation Texas Hold’em from 15:00 to 06:00 daily Admission: Guests must be over 21 years of age and a police identity or valid passport are required.

世间罕有的独尊之享，欢迎您的到来！

位于雅典之巅的终极娱乐圣地 距离雅典市中心仅17公里之遥，丽晶帕尔尼萨山赌场雄踞于帕尔尼萨山顶，这是一个让你一时间逃离 红尘扰攘的特殊之地。 这是雅典的第一家赌场，自开业伊始，它就吸引着无数希腊名流和国际上飞行全球进行豪赌的大亨们。 豪赌振精神！ 在丽晶帕尔尼萨山赌场，您能找到全欧洲最激动人心的游戏，享受极端兴奋的游戏体验！700架来自科 乐美、巴利的主题老虎机和多福多财角子机带您经历人生中惊心动魄的瞬间，灵魂震颤飙飞的体验来 自轮盘赌，21点扑克， “沙蟹”扑克，弹子游戏，以及世界有第一扑克牌美誉的德州扑克。

在海拔1055米之上尽享世界顶级服务！ 丽晶帕尔尼萨山赌场的哲学理念建立在以人为本的服务观念之上，致力于提供高水准服务，这正是对 典型的希腊式古道热肠好客传统的完美体现。 令人屏息的阿提卡美景就在您的俯瞰视野中，这里名为“1055咖啡餐厅”用餐处，得名于帕尔尼萨山的 海拔高度。特别的精品菜肴配以辽阔美景，让您感受到美食宜人，秀色可餐。预订电话：21020210050. 这里有全欧洲最现代化的登山缆车，是雅典唯一的缆车设施，为您提供免费、舒适的空中之旅，沉醉于 绝色美景之中，只需7分钟。

我们一周7天运营： 周一至周五，老虎机开放时间：24小时开业；桌上游戏开放时间：12:00 至06:00 周末：24小时开业 德州扑克开放时间：每日15:00至06:00 进入赌场必须达到21周岁，并持有效身份证或护照。

ontents 目录 冬季2017-2018

14.ID 16. EDITORIAL总编辑寄语

CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS 文化盛事

18. EXHIBITIONS AND PERFORMANCES THAT WILL ENRICH YOUR STAY IN ATHENS

各大展览和表演将丰富您的雅典之行 46. A WORLD OF ARTS 艺术世界

WELLBEING 身心健康 32. ACROPOLIS VIEWS 卫城景观 34. HAMMAM BATHS 哈曼土耳其浴室 The first authentic Hammam in Athens that offers body care treatment which is based on the ancient greek and roman practices 雅典第一家正宗土耳其浴室，沿袭古希腊 和罗马传统提供专业身体肌肤护理 36. INSIDER’ S GUIDE内部指南

Kimon Frangakis, founder of Andro. gr men’s website and LadiesRun.gr women’s charity race, is the first to reveal his preferences.

ON THE COVER Salthills in the Messolonghi salt mine.

Woolen suit Vassilis Emmanuel Zoulias.

Kendall & Kylie boots, Kalogirou. Sunglasses, GB Corner Gifts & Flavors. 迈索隆吉翁盐矿盐山 羊毛西装，Vassilis Emmanuel Zoulias精品店； Kendall＆Kylie长靴，Kalogirou精品店；太阳 镜，大不列颠酒店精品店。

Photographer: George Katsanakis (10am), Fashion Editor: Marilena Karagianni, Make up & Hair: Hara Papanikolaou (10am), Model: Tabea (Ace models), Assistant Photographer: Dimitris Katsanakis 摄影师：乔治·卡赞纳吉斯（10am）, 时尚编辑：玛莉莲 娜·卡拉吉安妮, 化妆师兼发型师：赫拉·帕帕尼克拉奥 （10am）, 模特：达裴阿（Ace models), 助理摄影师： 迪米里亚斯·卡赞纳吉斯

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Andro.gr男士网站和LadiesRun.gr女士慈 善比赛创始人Kimon Frangakis向您介绍 他的雅典最爱 54. HIGHLIFE 品质生活 COSTAS KESSARIS 科斯塔斯·凯撒利斯 The Athenian jeweler reveals his 4 top eating experiences 雅典珠宝商向您介绍最爱的四大餐厅 112 TRAILBLAZER 开拓者 THEO

SARANTOGLOU LALIS The architect of Greek descent designs the buildings of the future. 希腊血统建筑师倾情打造未来之家

FASHION STORIES 时尚故事 56 THE GATEWAY OF COLOURS AND SILK 彩色丝绸王国 HERMΕ`S CARRΕ - The best occasion for a magical fairytale. 爱马仕Carré——通往神奇的童话世界 58. OBJECTS OF DESIRE 欲望所爱 Time is flying 时光飞逝 62. TWO TRAVELLERS-ONE LOVE STORY 两位旅行者一场爱情故事 80. BRANDS FINDER MAP 品牌搜索地图

DISCOVER GREECE 探索希腊 38. MESSOLONGHI A brave water world 迈索隆吉翁, 美丽水世界 An ideal destination for those who love tranquility, good food and being in touch with nature 这是您追求宁静，美食，亲近自然的理想 之所

82. 10 CHARMING FACES OF THESSALONIKI 塞萨洛尼基的10副迷 人面孔

Gorgeous, friendly and full of historical and cultural attractions, the “Bride of Thermaikos” is simply irresistible.

明艳动人、热情友好、充满历史文化的深邃 吸引力， “塞萨洛尼基新娘”魅不可挡

TRAVEL YOUR SENSES 感觉行天下 97. WINTER FAVOURITES 冬季最爱 Warm, inviting dining stops, amazing wines, fancy cocktails and roaring fireplaces 温暖舒适的餐厅，诱人美味的葡萄酒，色彩 绚丽的鸡尾酒，熊熊燃烧的壁炉 104. NEW ENTRIES 新开张

Exciting restaurant & bar additions to the Athenian scene

雅典城除了美景还有众多令人兴奋的餐厅 酒吧供您选择 107. GREEK TASTE 希腊风味

111. MICHELIN STARRED RESTAURANTS IN ATHENS 雅典米 其林星级餐厅

114 LAST STOP 最后一站 Van Gogh ALIVE IN ATHENS 梵高活

在雅典

Photo: George Katsanakis

c

WINTER 2017-2018

ELEGANT 优雅旅行希腊TRAVEL PUBLISHER 出版商 IOANNIS ZOUNALIS 亚尼斯·祖纳里斯 iz@elegantgreece.gr

ΕDITOR IN CHIEF 总编辑 ADRIANI ORPHANOU-ZOUNALI 阿蒂丽阿妮·奥尔范怒·祖娜丽 olon@happypublications.com EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR 执行编辑 ALEXANDRA NIKOLAOU 亚历山大·尼古拉奥 alexandra@elegantgreece.gr CREATIVE DIRECTOR 艺术指导 ELENI KYDONAKI 艾林妮·凯多纳吉

MANAGING EDITOR 主任编辑 DESPOINA SAMPSON 黛丝平娜·桑普森 GOOD LIFE EDITOR 美好生活编辑 IOANNIS ZOUNALIS 亚尼斯·祖纳里斯

FASHION EDITOR 时尚编辑 MARILENA KARAGIANNI 玛莉莲娜·卡拉吉安妮 STILL LIFE EDITOR 静物主编 MYRTO KRITSOTAKI 米窦·克里查塔基

SENIOR EDITOR 高级编辑 GIORGOS PANAGIOTAKIS 季奥季斯·帕纳吉奥塔吉斯

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS 特约编辑 ELENA DACOULA 海伦·达库拉 , IOANNA GKOMOUZA 伊安娜·古木札

PHOTOGRAPHERS 摄影师 GEORGE KATSANAKIS 乔治·卡赞纳吉斯, FOTIS KARAPIPERIS 福蒂斯·卡拉彼派利斯 ENGLISH TRANSLATIONS & ENGLISH PROOFREADING 英文翻译及校对 WILLIAM TRIANTAFYLLOU 威廉·德力昂达菲鲁

CHINESE TRANSLATIONS & CHINESE PROOFREADING 中文翻译及校对 NEFELI-YUAN WU 吴媛 ADVERTISING & COMMERCIAL DEVELOPMENT 广告及商业发展

DIRECTOR OF COMMERCIAL DEVELOPMENT 商业发展部主任 EVITA ABATZIDOU 艾妮达·阿巴帝杜 M +30 6936 572844 T +30 210 7211047 eabatzidou@toptiermarketing.gr 10 Mourouzi Str, Athens 10674, GR www.toptiermarketing.gr COMMERCIAL ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR 商业副经理 ZAKOS CHATZIGIANNAKIS 查蔻斯·查齐亚纳吉斯 T +30 2110127919 zakosch@gmail.com

PUBLISHING COMPANY 出版公司 HAPPY PUBLICATIONS IOANNIS ZOUNALIS I.K.E. Jean Moreas 24, 152 32, Athens, Greece Telephone: +30 2110193817 Email: olon@happypublications.com

ISSN 2408-0365

17013

9 772408 036004

Total, partial or summarized republication or reproduction of this content is strictly prohibited, as is any paraphrase or adaptation of this content in any means mechanical, electronic, photocopying, recorded or otherwise without prior written permission of the publisher. Law 2121/1993 and rules of the International Law regulations valid in Greece.

严格禁止整体、部分或以摘要的形式对本期内容进行再版或转载，对于文字内容的各种电子、复印、录音或其他方式需要 经过我们的书面许可。此项规定依据在希腊颁布的Law 2121/1993相关国际法律规定。

Photo: George Katsanakis

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editorial

总编辑寄语

Let’s become followers of Epicurus, having as our GPS his motto for happiness:

“WE ARE BORN ONCE AND CANNOT BE BORN TWICE, BUT FOR ALL TIME MUST BE NO MORE. BUT YOU, WHO ARE NOT MASTER OF TOMORROW, POSTPONE YOUR HAPPINESS. LIFE IS WASTED IN PROCRASTINATION, AND EACH ONE OF US DIES WITHOUT ALLOWING HIMSELF LEISURE”.

EPICURUS, GREEK PHILOSOPHER (341 BC – 270 AD) Don’t forget! You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy a ticket to Greece.

We wish everyone a Happy New year, and safe journeys to all the travellers of the world.

Adriani Orphanou Zounali

Εditor in Chief Email: olon@happypublications.com

让我们追随伊壁鸠鲁的脚步， 以其座右铭作为我们追寻幸福的向导：

伊壁鸠鲁，希腊哲学家（341 BC – 270 AD）

别忘了，快乐是买不到的，却可以买一张踏上希腊旅程的机票。我们祝福所有的读者们新年快乐，祝全世界的旅行者们旅途顺利。 阿蒂丽阿妮•奥尔范怒•祖娜丽 总编辑 邮箱：olon@happypublications.com

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Experience Happiness at Art/ Zen Villa Galaxy, villagalaxy.gr/ https://villagalaxymykonos.reserve-online.net/ ELEGANT TRAVEL

体验幸福就在星际别墅，米克洛斯岛

Photo: Villa Galax y

“我们只活一次，我们不能再次降生；从永恒的角度讲，我们必将不再存在。谁也无法控制 明天，可是你却推延你的快乐。生活被拖延给浪费掉了， 我们每一个人就在忙忙碌碌、无暇享乐中死去。”

ATHENS Voukourestiou Street 6

MYKONOS Nammos Village Psarou Beach wwww.eresparis.com

CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS 文化盛事

EXHIBITIONS AND PERFORMANCES THAT WILL ENRICH YOUR STAY IN ATHENS 各大展览和表演将丰富您的雅典之行 撰 稿：伊 安 娜 • 古 木 札

THE STAVROS NIARCHOS FOUNDATION CULTURAL CENTRE 斯塔夫罗斯·尼亚科斯基金会文化中心

THE NEW HOME OF THE GREEK NATIONAL OPERA 希腊国家歌剧院新址

It has recently relocated to the Faliro bay to open new horizons to our cultural expeditions.

At the refulgent Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre, designed by Renzo Piano, the Greek National Opera has found a state-of-the-art stage for its productions.

With one click on www.nationalopera.gr and with so many shows at hand, you will be spoiled for choice. We have marked the following from its programme: Lucia di Lammermoor (one of the masterpieces of romantic bel canto, co-produced by the Royal Opera House in London), The Magic Flute (the pioneering production of the Komische Oper Berlin), Romeo and Juliette by Charles Gounod (for the first time in GNO), La Bohème (directed by Graham Vick), and Tosca (performed by Cellia Costea and Dimitris Tiliakos).

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ELEGANT TRAVEL

它最近乔迁至Faliro海湾，为我们探索文化 之旅开辟了新的视野。在由伦佐皮亚诺建 筑工作室设计的辉煌大气的斯塔夫罗斯• 尼亚科斯基金会文化中心，希腊国家歌剧 院为它的作品找到了一个最完美的舞台。 您只需点击www.nationalopera.gr便可了 解全部演出信息。我们精心推荐必看的表 演如下： 《拉美莫尔的露契亚》 （由伦敦皇家 歌剧院联合制作的浪漫主义代表性作品） ， 《魔笛》 （柏林喜歌剧院开创性杰作） ，查理 斯.古诺的《罗密欧与朱丽叶》 （首次在GNO 上演） ， 《波希米亚人》 （由葛拉罕·维克执 导）和《托斯卡》 （由塞莉娅·卡斯泰亚和迪 米特斯·提丽亚考斯联合表演） 。

Lucia di Lammermoor, Royal Opera House, Photographer: Stephen Cummiskey

BY IOANNA GKOMOUZA •

MEGARON - THE ATHENS CONCERT HALL / THE ONASSIS CULTURAL FOUNDATION 雅典音乐厅 / 奥纳西斯文化中心

MODERN DANCE AT ITS FINEST 现代舞盛典

Pilobolus Dance Theatre - Shadowland, Photographer: Ian Douglas

Akram Khan, Sasha Waltz, Pilobolus Dance Theatre...

Tell me when you’ll be in Athens, and I’ll tell you where to dance your mind away. The curtain calls for impressive winter events starting with the Αthens Concert Hall and Shadowland on 13-17/12, an innovative spectacle from the Pilobolus Dance Theatre, beginning with the dreamlike journey of a young girl and a shadow theatre. From there on, it will move to the Creation of Sasha Waltz (23-24/3), which examines the phenomena of existence in a disrupted society.

The fans of Akram Khan should come to Stegi of the Onassis Cultural Foundation for Xenos. On 21-27/1 he will be on stage along with five musicians, on a rhythmic journey from the kathak to contemporary dance. At the scenes of the Stegi, you will also get to meet remarkable Greek choreographers: Ioanna Portolou (15-18/1), Christos Papadopoulos (1-4/2) and Kat Valastur (9-11/3).

(Megaron The Athens Music Hall, Vas. Sofias & Kokkali - Metro: Megaro Mousikis, www.megaron.gr, Stegi The Onassis Cultural Foundation, Syngrou Ave. 107, www.sgt.gr)

阿 克 拉 姆 汗，萨 沙 华 尔 兹，P i l o b o l u s 舞 团…… 告诉我您将什么时候到达雅典，我将带您前 去舞蹈盛典。希腊冬季大型舞蹈活动正拉开 帷幕，开幕仪式将于12月13日-17日在雅典 音乐厅举行，以《虚幻的世界》开场，这是来自 Pilobolus舞团的创新曲目，以影子剧院方式 讲述了一个年轻女孩开启梦幻般的旅程。之 后便是萨沙华尔兹的创作（3月23日-24日） ， 审视了在备受破坏的社会中存在的各种乱 象。阿克拉姆汗的追随者们必须来到奥纳西 斯文化中心Stegi欣赏Xenos。1月21日-27日 他还将与五位音乐家一起在舞台尽情舞动， 从卡塔克舞到现代舞。在Stegi舞台上，您还 会遇到才华横溢的希腊编舞：伊安娜·波特 特鲁（1月15日-18日） 、克里斯托·帕帕普洛 斯（2月1日-4日）和凯特·瓦拉斯图赫（3月9 日-11日） 。 （雅 典 音 乐 厅，Va s . S o f i a s＆Ko k ka l i；地 铁：Megaro Mousikis，www.megaron.gr； 奥 纳 西 斯 文 化 中 心，S y n g ro u Ave . 1 0 7， www.sgt.gr）

ELEGANT TRAVEL

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CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS 文化盛事 ACROPOLIS MUSEUM | 卫城博物馆

TO ANCIENT ELEFSINA VIA THE ACROPOLIS

通过雅典卫城来到古代埃莱夫 西纳

它是几世纪以来最重要的古代圣地之一， 致敬德米特女神（掌管农业和大自然生机 的古希腊女神） ，圣地吸引了当时来自世界 各地的朝圣者，甚至包括罗马皇帝。大名鼎 鼎的厄琉西斯秘密祭典是此次雅典卫城博 物馆展览的重量级嘉宾。此次致敬展览名 为“Ieros Odos and Elefsina” ，试图寻求距 离首都仅20公里的厄琉西斯古城圣地与古 雅典城之间的关系，就是在厄琉西斯城，厄 琉西斯秘密祭典在为其九天的庆祝活动中 第一次被举行。 （Dionysiou Areopagitou 15，地铁：Acro– polis，15/12/2017-16/5/2018，www. theacropolismuseum.gr） THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM | 卫城博物馆

TREASURES FROM THE SHANGHAI MUSEUM

It has been one of the most important sanctuaries of antiquity for centuries, attracting pilgrims from all the then known world, even Roman emperors, to the worship of Demeter (the goddess of nature’s renewal and growth of grain). The famous Eleusinian Mysteries are the guest of honour at the new periodical exhibition of the Acropolis Museum. The tribute, called “Iera Odos and Elefsina”, seeks to highlight the relationship of the city’s famous sanctuary - which is just 20 kilometres away from the Greek capital -, to the very city of Athens, where the Eleusinian Mysteries was celebrated during the first of the nine days of the festivities.

(Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, Metro: Acropolis, 15/12/2017 -16/5/2018, www. theacropolismuseum.gr)

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ELEGANT TRAVEL

A bronze ceremonial pan of the 7th century BC and an illustrated paper scroll from the 17th century AD have temporarily left the Shanghai Museum in order to be displayed at the Acropolis Museum. The first exhibit, a rare masterpiece of Chinese copper art, was manufactured for the princess Zi Zhong Jiang and was used as a water vessel for hand washing. The second one is the artwork of painter Wu Hong of the Qing Dynasty and depicts a peaceful landscape of mountains, rivers and farmhouses. They are well worth discovering! (15 Dionysiou

Areopagitou, Metro: Acropolis, until 30/4/2018, www.theacropolismuseum.gr) 公元前七世纪的青铜盥器子仲姜盘和公元十七世纪的书画图卷暂时离开了上海博 物馆，来到希腊雅典卫城博物馆进行展出。前者是中国青铜器艺术不可多得的杰 作，由晋国太师为其妻子仲姜所做，被用作洗手容器；后者是清代书画名家吴宏的 作品，描绘了中国山水的宁静景观。他们非常值得您一探究竟！ （15 Dionysiou Areopagitou，地铁：Acropolis，展览直至2018年4月30日，www. theacropolismuseum.gr）

Southern facade, Acropolis Museum, Photographer: Nikos Daniilidis, Photo: Shutterstock, Shanghai Museum, Photographer: Zhang Xudong, Elefsina,

上海博物馆珍藏

KAPLANON 11 | 开普兰11

A HISTORIC NEOCLASSICAL BUILDING REJUVENATED WITH ART

Kostis Velonis: I See the Sign, 2017, Installation View ©PanosKokkinias (Courtesy NEON και Kalfayan Galleries)

历史悠久新古典主义建 筑的文艺复兴

Found in the heart of Athens, but excluded for years from the city’s life, this centenarian neo-classical residence on Kaplanon Street 11 has opened once again to tell its stories through modern art, thanks to the City Project of the NEON Cultural Organization. It lasts until 14/1/2018, so do not miss the opportunity. The artist Kostis Velonis, known for his ability to combine existing objects to create new forms, presents a series of sculptures and draws his inspiration from the residents of this impressive mansion.

(Kaplanon 11, until 14/1/2018, www.neon.org)

坐落于雅典市 中心，多年来却 远离热闹喧嚣 的城市生活，这 座位于开普兰街11号的百年新古 典主义风格住宅终于再次向公众开 放，以现代艺术讲述故事，这一切得 益于NEON文化组织的城市工程。 展览将持续至2018年1月14日，一 定不要错过这次机会。艺术家考斯 迪斯·威龙尼斯非常擅长结合现有 物体以创造全新的事物，展览展示 一系列雕塑作品，并呈现他从令人 印象深刻的古宅中汲取的灵感。 （Kaplanon 11，展览直至2018年1 月14日，www.neon.org）

ELEGANT TRAVEL

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CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS 文化盛事

ELEFTHERIA TSELIOU GALLERY | 艾莱芙赛利亚·彻利奥画廊

THE PAINTING GESTURES OF FILIPPOS TSITSOPOULOS 菲利波斯·齐索普鲁斯的绘画手势

He lives in London and Madrid and currently participating in The Raft / Art is (not) Lonely project in Ostend, curated by Jan Fabre and Joanna de Vos. The Greek artist Filippos Tsitsopoulos is known for his work in theatre and its history through performance art and photography. His performances where he wears masks made from seashells and plants are distinctive. In his latest show at the Eleftheria Tseliou Gallery, he presents, after many years, paintings and drawings.

(Irakleitou 3, Kolonaki, 8/3-7/4/2018, www.tseliougallery.com)

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他居住在伦敦和马德里，目前正在奥斯坦 德参加“The Raft / Art is (not) Lonely”项 目，由简·法布勒和伊安娜·德沃策划。 希 腊艺术家菲利波斯•齐索普洛斯以表演艺 术和摄影展现戏剧而著名。在他最新作品 中，他戴着由贝壳和植物制作的面具进行 表演，非常独树一帜。艾莱芙赛利亚•彻利 奥画廊正在举行关于他最新作品的展览， 这是他经过多年的绘画之后展现的第一步 表演作品。 （Irakleitou 3，Kolonaki，8 / 3-7 / 4/2018， www.tseliougallery.com）

发现更多新款

CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS 文化盛事

VILLA KAPANTZI 卡帕兹古宅

THESSALONIKI ON THE CUSP OF THE 20TH CENTURY

站在20世纪风口浪尖上 的塞萨洛尼基

BENAKI MUSEUM / THEOCHARAKIS FOUNDATION

贝纳基博物馆/塞奥哈拉基斯基金会

KAZANTZAKIS - SEFERIS AT THE MUSEUM 卡赞扎基斯、塞弗里斯在博物馆 Two of the most famous Greek writers “star” in the landmark museums of Athens.

Seeking to redefine our memory of Nikos Kazantzakis, this triple tribute at the Benaki Museum focuses on the man, the writer and thinker who has re-defined man. The exhibitions will “run” at the Piraeus 138 Street building, the Nikos Hadjikyriakos Gkikas Art Gallery and the Museum of Islamic Art during the period 6/12/201725/2/2018. The Theocharakis Foundation on the other hand, in the exhibition “When the light dances, I speak fairly” (until 21/1/2018), concentrates on the Nobel laureate poet George Seferis and his work through personal affects, manuscripts, photographs and paintings by Greek artists that were inspired by his literary work.

(Benaki Museum, www.benaki.gr.

Theocharakis Foundation, www.thf.gr)

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两位最负盛名的希腊作家在雅典地标性博 物馆中相遇。为了重新定义对尼科斯·卡赞 扎基斯的记忆，贝纳基博物馆将此次展览 重点放在探索他作为一个自然人、作家和 思想者三重身份，进而理解他对于人类的 新定义，展览将于2017年12月6日至2018 年2月25日在比雷埃夫斯大街138号Nikos Hadjikyriakos Gkikas美术馆和伊斯兰艺 术博物馆举行。同时，塞奥哈 拉基斯基金会举办《当光明舞 动，我 自 由 言 语 》展 览（直 至 2018年1月21日） ，集中展现诺 贝尔奖获得者及诗人乔治·塞 弗里斯的作品，并展示其个人 物品、手稿、照片以及受其文 学作品启发的希腊艺术家创 作的各种绘画作品。 （贝纳基博物馆，www.benak i . g r；塞 奥 哈 拉 基 斯 基 金 会，www.thf.gr）

十九世纪后半叶，在卡帕兹古宅附 近布满了迷宫般的胡同、清真寺尖 塔、教堂和犹太教堂，以及一堵坚固 的水墙。从奥斯曼帝国时期的多民 族城市到如今希腊第二大城市，塞 萨洛尼基的重建经历了哪些历史演 变？1917年，一场大火烧毁了这座 城市的大部分，一个世纪之后，希腊 国家银行文化基金会通过展览《我 们老城的尽头，塞萨洛尼基，18701917》讲述了国际大都市塞萨洛尼 基的兴衰起伏，从易燃的木头之城 到如今的大型混凝土建筑。 （卡帕兹古宅，展览直至2018年2 月18日，www.miet.gr）

G. Seferis/ Jannis Psychopedis, Dellios Collection, MIET Thessaloniki

In the second half of the 19th century, in its neighbourhoods you would see labyrinthine dead ends, minarets, churches and synagogues, and a robust water wall. So how did we get here from the multiethnic Thessaloniki of the Ottoman Empire, to the redesign of the second largest city of the Greek state? A century after the devastating fire of 1917, which burned most of the city, the Cultural Foundation of the National Bank of Greece has deposited through the exhibition “The end of our old Town. Thessaloniki, 1870-1917” a storytelling about the rise and decline of the cosmopolitan Thessaloniki, from the flammable wood-burning city to the large concrete buildings.

(Villa Kapantzi, until 18/2/2018, www.miet.gr)

THE WONDERFLY FLYING WITH the new Wonderfly collection signed

by Folli Follie, we cannot help but remember the “Butterfly Lovers”, the wonderful love story of a pair of lovers, Liang Shanbo (梁山伯) and Zhu Yingtai (祝英). Enjoy one of the four greatest folktale novels of the Chinese tradition which has been proclaimed by UNESCO as a masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. It is an adventure of unfulfilled love culminating in the ultimate union of the two lovers. The boy and the girl are transformed into flying butterflies in the sky, like two small wonderflies that will forever remind us of the miracle of love.

A fairytale which takes us back to our unfulfilled childhood dreams, when we wanted to chase butterflies. Today, there are no unfulfilled desires since the creations of the Folli Follie collection with the signature pattern radiate with their glow and elegance.

All Silver 925 Jewellery from the Wonderfly Collection 蝶恋系列925纯银首饰

Info www.follifollie.com @follifollie #follifollie #MyFolliFollie

of love THE ULTIMATE UNION OF DREAM AND REALITY.

蝴蝶恋人

梦想与现实的 完美结合

与“蝴蝶恋人”一起飞翔，发现 梁祝伯和祝英台的经典爱情故 事，重温这被联合国教科文组 织称为人类口述和非物质文化 遗产的中国四大传统民间故事 之一。这是一场未完成的爱的 冒险，两位恋人最终在另一个 世界获得了重逢。梁祝伯和祝 英台在空中化为美丽的蝴蝶， 缠绵飞舞，永远提醒着我们有 爱便有奇迹。 美丽的爱情童话 将我们带回到那些梦想未曾实 现的孩提时代，今天Folli Follie 系列作品优闪烁着优雅精致的 光芒，带领我们追寻童年的蝴 蝶之梦。

CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS 文化盛事 ONASSIS CULTURAL FOUNDATION | 奥纳西斯文化中心

FOR SCI-FI WANDERINGS 科幻漫游 / 探索

Science Fiction, Photographer: Fotis Milionis

Missed the Digital Revolution show at the London Barbican Centre? There’s always Athens! The tribute titled Science Fiction: A journey into the Unknown at the Stegi of the Onassis Cultural Centre opens the fastest gateway for flights to the universe of science fiction. Get ready for “extraordinary voyages” to lost cities and mysterious islands through the original manuscripts and drawings of Jules Verne, as well as props from famous films. Prepare for “close encounters” with Aliens, Martians, cyborgs and robots – and yes, Sonny from I-Robot will also be there.

Wander into dystopian societies and futuristic cities with towering skyscrapers.

(Syngrou Ave. 107, until 14/1/2018, www.sgt.gr)

您错过了伦敦巴比肯中心的数字革命展？ 没关系，快来雅典！ 《科幻小说：通往未知世 界的旅行》展览走进奥纳西斯文化中心，开 启了快速飞往科幻小说宇宙世界的大门。 准备好一场通往失落的城市和神秘岛屿的 奇幻非凡之旅吧。您将欣赏到儒勒·凡尔 纳的原始手稿和图纸，以及著名电影中使 用过的道具。准备与外星人、火星人、电子 人和机器人来一场“亲密接触” ，是的，来自 I-Robot的Sonny也会出现在展览现场。尽 情漫步于反乌托邦社会和高耸着摩天大楼 的未来城市中吧。（Syngrou Ave. 107，展 览直至2018年1月14日，www.sgt.gr）

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ELEGANT TRAVEL

Available at Attica, Soho Soho Boutique and Ileana Makri Shop online at themisz.com

HELENIC CHILDREN’S MUSEUM | 希腊儿童博物馆

CHILDREN AND ADULTS IN ACTION 儿童与成人互动

We will make colourful bubbles and perform experiments with water, “play” with the famous ancient mathematician Pythagoras, we will be creative with building, travel back in time to the “house of great grandfather and great grandmother”, we will become chefs and experiment with recipes in the “kitchen”.

Children (from 0 to 12 years) and adults are all going to have a fun time and learn through games at the Hellenic Children’s Museum. Make your appointment at its new headquarters in the centre of Athens, in the modern building of the Athens Conservatoire and with free admission.

(Athens Conservatoire Building, Rigillis & Vasileos Georgiou B’ 17-19, www.hcm.gr)

TOY MUSEUM | 玩具博物馆

NEW KIDS ON THE MUSEUM BLOCK 博物馆新宠儿

The new Benaki Museum, which has the largest network of museums in Athens, is set in new moves. With or without children, head down to the Toy Museum in the neoGothic tower of the Kouloura House on the coastal avenue. A panorama of the history of toys from the 4th century BC, up to the 20th century. The collection includes, among other exhibits, ancient owl rattles, nostalgic train sets and teddy bears, African tribal dolls and interactive toys. Soon we hope we will set foot in their new space in the heart of Athens. The house of Valladorou in the pictoresque Thisseio hosts antiquities, precious Byzantine icons, functional utensils and old books.

(Toy Museum, Leof. Poseidonos 14 & Tritonos 1, P. Faliro. Valadorou House, 13 Oktrineon Street, Thisseion, www.benaki.gr)

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拥有雅典最大博物馆网络的贝纳基博物 馆正在采取新的举措。无论是您否有孩 子，都可以沿着海滨大道来到Kouloura House新哥特式塔楼参观玩具博物馆。 这里展现了从公元前4世纪到20世纪玩 具发展的整个历史全景。 收藏品包括古 代猫头鹰摇铃、怀旧火车、泰迪熊、非洲 部落玩偶和互动玩具等等。雅典市中心 的博物馆新址正在筹备中，预计很快可 以迁入新址，位于风景如画的Thisseio 地区瓦拉杜鲁大楼中，届时还将展出众 多古董、珍贵的拜占庭圣像、功能型器具 和旧图书。 （玩具博物馆，Leof.Poseidonos 14 ＆Tritonos 1，P. Faliro. Valadorou House, 13 Oktrineon Street, Thisseion, www.benaki.gr）

Childhood, Toys and Games based on Maria Arg yriadi’ s (centre) donation

我们将制作五颜六色的泡泡，用水进行实验，与 伟大的古希腊数学家毕达哥拉斯一起“玩耍” ， 我们将在建筑上进行创新，将参观者带回“曾 祖父和曾祖母的家” ，我们将 成为厨师，在“厨房”实验各种 食谱。儿童（0至12岁）和成年 人都将在希腊儿童博物馆获 得好玩有趣的体验，并通过各 种游戏学习知识。博物馆新址 在雅典市中心，坐落于雅典音 乐学院的现代建筑中，免费入 场，可预约。 （雅典音乐学院大楼，Rigillis＆Vasileos Georgiou B’1719，www.hcm.gr）

CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS 文化盛事 MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC ART | 基克拉笛艺术博物馆

ANCIENT MONEY TALKS 古钱会谈

Athenian silver tetradrachm depicting an owl, 440 – 420 BC © Athens, Alpha Bank Numismatic Collection, Photographer: P. Magoulas. Attic red-figured amphora by the Berlin Painter, Ca 470 BC © Paris, Musée du Louvre, Photographer: St. Maréchalle.

Exhibitions about numismatics are hard to pull off. What if we “interpreted” ancient coins in a different way? Examining them not only as means of transactions, but as tangible symbols of their time that bear significant information about their origin and era through their depictions especially when placed alongside objects of the same period? This is the take on ancient numismatics that the Museum of Cycladic Art has assumed. The museum, known for well orchestrating the setting of its shows, presents the exhibition MONEY. Tangible Symbols in Ancient Greece in collaboration with Alpha Bank. It unravels the interesting journey in 8 thematic sections, from the first currencies without any iconography to coins, which depict religious symbols, commodities, works of art, historical events and even inscriptions of propaganda.

(4 Neophytou Douka, Kolonaki, until April 2018, cycladic.gr/en)

关于钱币的展览很难进行创新。如果我们 试图用另一种方式去“解读”古代钱币，是 否会有意外发现？也就是说不仅仅把它 们看作是人类交易的工具，而是一个时代 的具体象征，便可由此探索发现时代的起 源，尤其是和同时代其他物品进行比较 时，很多重要的信息便可一目了然。这就 是基克拉迪艺术博物馆古代钱币研究的 宗旨。该博物馆长期以精心策划的各大展 览而闻名世界，这次与希腊阿尔法银行合 作，举行《钱币——古代希腊有形的符号》 展览。展览共分为8个主题部分，揭示了 世界货币的演变过程，从首次出现的没有 任何图像的货币到后来的硬币，硬币表面 通常描绘众多信息，包括宗教符号、商品、 艺术品、历史事件甚至宣传题词。 （Kolonaki 4 Neophytou Douka，展览 直至2018年4月，cycladic.gr/en）

NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM | 希腊国家考古 博物馆

FROM ODYSSEYS TO HADRIAN AND ANCIENT BEAUTY 从奥德赛到哈德良

Acting as the ark of ancient Greek art, the National Archaeological Museum now gives us even more reasons to revisit its impressive halls.

Running until 24/3/2018, the exhibition Odysseys marks the museum’s 150th anniversary, provides ample opportunity to follow this adventurous journey of man’s search for raw materials, knowledge, ideas and lands. At the same time, until the end of 2018, the museum hosts a tribute to the roman emperor Hadrian, who loved philosophy and the Greek writings. Pay a visit to the exhibition, and then, why not explore some of the noteworthy monuments he bestowed on the city: Hadrian’s Library as well as the Temple of Olympian Zeus. (Patission 44, www.namuseum.gr) 作为古代希腊艺术的方舟，希腊国家考古博物馆现在 给我们更多的理由去重温这座典雅庄重、大气恢弘的 博物馆。为了纪念建馆150周年， 《奥德赛》展览将一直 持续至2018年3月24日，让人们有机会追寻这伟大的 冒险之旅，探索人类发现原材料、知识、思想和土地的 过程。同时，直至2018年底，博物馆还将致敬罗马皇帝 哈德良，他一生酷爱哲学和古希腊文著书。参观完展览 后，您可以去古雅典城中探索授予他的各大纪念碑和 古迹，如哈德良图书馆和奥林匹亚宙斯神庙。 （Patission 44，www.namuseum.gr）

ELEGANT TRAVEL

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MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC ART | 基克拉笛艺术博物馆

MIKE KELLEY AND THE SOLITUDE OF SUPERMAN 麦克·凯利与超人的孤独

Using everything from painting and sculpture to video and performance, he has explored various embodiments of the suppressed face of the US’s cultural unconscious with a critical eye. The exhibition Mike Kelley: Fortress of Solitude, the first monographic show of the late artist in Greece, brings together characteristic pieces from his entire career in order to demonstrate the uncanny sensation of psychological homelessness prevailing in the world today. Among the exhibits are his famous stuffed animals as emotional effigies of a lost childhood, and a group of sculptures from the Kandors series based on hand-blown glass vases stemming from his obsessive preoccupation with the myth of Superman.

The show is housed at the impressive Stathatos Mansion, organised by NEON, the offspring of renowned collector Dimitris Daskalopoulos, and curated

by Douglas Fogle.

(4 Neophytou Douka, Kolonaki, until April 2018, cycladic.gr/en)

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他使用一切工具，从绘画、雕塑到影像和表演，他用 批判的眼光，探索了美国文化潜意识中被压抑的各 种面孔及其体现。展览《麦克·凯利：孤独堡垒》是在 希腊举行的首次专题展览，汇集了这位艺术家整个 职业生涯中的所有代表性作品，展示当今世界普遍 存在的心灵无家可归的奇妙感觉。展品包括他最有 名的毛绒动物作品，用以象征童年的迷失，还有Kandors系列群像雕塑，基于手工吹制的玻璃花瓶，体现 了艺术家对超人神话的迷恋。本次展览在令人印象 深刻的斯塔萨托斯大楼举行，由著名希腊收藏家迪 米特斯·达斯卡欧布鲁斯的后人NEON组织，道格拉 斯·福格勒策划。 （Kolonaki 4 Neophytou Douka，展览直至2018年 4月，cycladic.gr/en）

CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS 文化盛事

BERNIER / ELIADES GALLERY

博尼尔 / 艾丽娅德斯画廊

GILBERT & GEORGE CELEBRATE IN THISSEIO

吉尔伯特和乔治在Thisseio庆祝

They met on the 25th of September in 1967 at the Saint Martins School of Art and since then, for half a century now, they have been going together like Living Sculptures! Celebrating their Jubilee, following a series of exhibitions in New York, Paris, Brussels, London and Naples, Gilbert & George are also making a visit to Athens. From 11/1/2018 at the Bernier / Eliades Gallery, they will bring their new series of works titled The Beard Pictures. Always being present in their artwork, this time they pose as evil, diabolical versions of themselves, with beards made of wire mesh, made of beer foam, made of flowers or as rabbits with snake for tongues.

(Eptachalkou 11, Thissio - Metro: Thisseio, until 22/2/2018, www.berniereliades.gr/)

他们于1967年9月25日在圣马丁艺术学院相遇，从那时起，半个世纪以来，他 们如同活雕塑一般随时形影不离！既纽约、巴黎、布鲁塞尔、伦敦和那不勒斯 一系列展览之后，吉尔伯特和乔治终于来到雅典拜访。从2018年1月11日起， 博尼尔 / 艾丽娅德斯画廊将展示最新系列作品《胡子图片》 。两位艺术家总是 将自己放入艺术创作中，这一次，他们扮演邪恶，成为升级版恶魔，以各种材 料制成的胡须为装饰，如金属丝网、啤酒泡沫和花卉，用兔子和蛇做成舌头。 （Eptachalkou 11，Thissio，地铁：Thisseio，展览直至2018年2月22日，www.bernier-eliades.gr/）

EMST MUSEUM/NATIONAL MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART | 机电工程博物馆/国家当代艺术博物馆

WHAT’S UP AT THE EMST? 机电工程博物馆发生了什么？

Mainly thanks to donations, the National Museum of Contemporary Art has added one hundred and twenty artworks to its collection in the past three years. The exhibition, held at the once emblematic brewing factory of Fix, will give us a taste of the newly acquired pieces and will run until mid January. However, if you happen to be in the area from January onwards, an original research by 43 Greek artists will be at the museum for you to enjoy. The exhibition titled Productive and Axiomatic Systems, will be the first of the series Theorems 2018, a new institution organized by the AICA Hellas (Greek Section of the International Association of Art Critics).

Photo: Vladislav Zukovsk y, EMST Photo: Stephie Grape

(Kallirrois Ave & Amvrosiou Frantzi, Metro: Fix, www.emst.gr)

主要得益于捐赠，过去三年中希腊国家当 代艺术馆馆藏增加了一百二十件艺术品。 这次在Fix地区曾经的标志性酿造工厂举 行展览，让我们有机会欣赏到这些新作品， 展览将一直持续至一月中旬。不过，如果您 在一月之后来到这里，仍然有43位希腊艺 术家的原创作品在博物馆内供您欣赏。 这 个名为《生产性和公理化系统》的展览将成 为2018年定理系列的第一部，这是由AICA Hellas（国际艺术评论家协会希腊分会）组 织的一个新机构。 （Kallirrois Ave＆Amvrosiou Frantzi，地 铁：Fix，www.emst.gr）

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ACROPOLIS VIEWS 卫城景观

1

HYTRA Restaurant & Bar (Stegi, Onassis Cultural Centre, Syngrou Ave. 107-109, Neos Kosmos, tel. 2177071118.

Metro: Syngrou-Fix) 依德

拉，酒吧餐厅（地址：Stegi, 奥 纳西斯文化中心，Syngrou Ave. 107-109, Neos Kosmos；电话：2177071118；地 铁：Syngrou-Fix站）

2

LA SUITE LOUNGE Restaurant & Bar (St. George Lycabettus Hotel, Kleomenous 2, Kolonaki, tel. 2107416000, www.sglycabettus.gr Metro: Evangelismos / Syntagma) La Suite

Lounge 餐厅酒吧 (地 址：圣乔治立卡维多山酒 店，Kleomenous 2, Kolonaki；电话：2107416000； 网址：www.sglycabettus. gr；地铁：Evangelismos 站/ Syntagma站)

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3

TUDOR HALL Restaurant (King George Hotel, Vasileos Georgiou A´ 3, Syntagma, tel. 2103330265, www.tudorhall.gr - Metro: Syntagma) 都铎之都 餐厅 ( 地址：乔治国王酒店，Vasileos Georgiou A´ 3, Syntagma； 电话：2103330265；网 址：www.tudorhall.gr；地 铁：Syntagma站)

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4

ACROPOLIS MUSEUM Cafe & Restaurant (The Acropolis Museum, Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, tel.

2109000915, www.theacropolismuseum.gr - Metro: Acropoli) 卫城博物馆 咖啡厅 & 餐 厅 (地址：卫城博物馆，Dionysiou Areopagitou 15；电话：2109000915；网址：www.theacropolismuseum.gr；地铁：Acropoli站)

6

DIONYSOS Restaurant (Rovertou Galli 43, tel. 2109231936, www. dionysoszonars.gr - Metro: Acropoli)

酒神 餐厅 (地址：Rovertou Galli 43；电 话：2109231936；网址：www.dionysoszonars.gr；地铁：Acropoli站)

PREMIÈRE Restaurant (Athenaeum InterContinental Hotel, Syngrou 89-93, tel. 2109206000, www.athenaeumintercontinentalathens.com - Metro: Syngrou – Fix) Première 餐厅 (地址：雅典娜洲际酒店, Syngrou 89-93；电话：2109206000；网

址：www.athenaeumintercontinentalathens.com；地铁：Syngrou – Fix站)

8 THISSIO VIEW Restaurant, Cafe, Club (Apostolou Pavlou 25 & Agias Marinis, Thission, tel.

2103476754 www.thissioview.gr/ Metro: Thiseio) 迪希奥风景，餐厅、酒

吧及俱乐部 (地址：Apostolou Pavlou 25 & Agias Marinis, Thiseio；电话： 2103476754；网址：www.thissioview. gr/；地铁：Thiseio站)

THE ZILLERS Restaurant & Bar (The Zillers Athens Boutique Hotel, Mitropoleos 54, tel.

2103222277, www. thezillersathens.gr Metro: Monastiraki) The Zillers 餐厅酒吧 ( 地址：Zillers雅典精品酒 店, Mitropoleos 54；电 话：2103222277；网址：www. thezillersathens.gr；地 铁：Monastiraki站)

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METROPOLIS ROOF GARDEN Restaurant & Bar (Electra Metropolis Athens Hotel, Mitropoleos 15, tel. 2141006200, www. electrahotels.gr/en/athens/ electra-metropolis-athens – Metro: Syntagma) 大都会屋

顶花园 餐厅酒吧 (地址：大都会 雅典酒店，Mitropoleos 15；电 话：2141006200；网址：www. electrahotels.gr/en/athens/ electra-metropolis-athens； 地铁：Syntagma站)

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GB ROOF GARDEN Restaurant & Bar (Vasileos Georgiou A’ 1, Syntagma, tel. 2103330766, www. grandebretagne.gr - Metro: Syntagma) 大不列颠酒店屋顶花园 餐厅酒吧 (地 址：Vasileos Georgiou A’1, Syntagma； 电话：2103330766；网址：www.grandebretagne.gr；地铁：Syntagma站)

COULEUR LOCALE Restaurant & Bar (Normanou 3, tel. 2167004917, www. couleurlocaleathens.com Metro: Monastiraki) 色彩地带 餐厅酒吧 (地址：Normanou 3； 电话：2167004917；网址：www. couleurlocaleathens.com；地 铁：Monastiraki站)

12

360° Restaurant & Bar (Ifaistou 2, tel. 2103210006, www.threesixty.gr - Metro: Monastiraki) 360° 餐厅酒吧 (地址：Ifaistou 2；电 话：2103210006；网址：www.threesixty.gr；地铁：Monastiraki站)

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STROFI Restaurant (Rovertou Galli 25, Αcropolis, tel. 2109214130, www.strofi.gr/ Metro: Acropoli) STROFI 餐厅（地址：Rovertou Galli 25, Αcropolis； 电话：2109214130；网 址：www.strofi.gr；地 铁：Acropoli站）

14

SENSE FINE DINING Restaurant (AthensWas Hotel, Dionysiou Areopagitou 5, tel.

2109200240, athenswas.gr - Metro: Acropoli) 现代餐厅屋顶花园 餐厅 (地 址：AthensWas 酒店，Dionysiou Areopagitou 5；电话：2109200240；网址： athenswas.gr；地铁：Acropoli站)

WELLNESS 身心健康

Hammam baths THE FIRST AUTHENTIC HAMMAM IN ATHENS THAT OFFERS BODY CARE TREATMENT WHICH IS BASED ON THE ANCIENT GREEK AND ROMAN PRACTICES.

哈曼土耳其浴室

雅典第一家正宗土耳其浴室，沿袭古希腊和罗 马传统提供专业身体肌肤护理。 B Y D E S P O I N A S A M P S O N • 撰 稿：黛 丝 平 娜 · 桑 普 森

ΤHE DOME WAS DESIGNED WITH RESPECT TO THE TRADITIONAL BATHS

沿用了传统土耳其浴室 风格的拱形屋顶

SEPARATE PRIVATE AREA WITH ​​2 MARBLE BEDS FOR EXFOLIATION WITH THE TRADITIONAL KETSEAS. 独立私人区域配有两张大 理石床，采用传统方式去角 质身体护理。

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A PURIFICATION RITUAL that was spread among the largest civilizations of the Mediterranean basin, that offered the ultimate balance in physical and mental health. In Thisseio, at the historic heart of Athens, the Hammam Baths were created in order to revive the experience of this luxurious philosophy. Τhe dome, the central round marble bench and the individual troughs in this unique space, were designed with respect to the traditional structure forms so that the authentic atmosphere and sensation of the original bath can be conveyed to today’s guest. The owners’ aim was to get us acquainted with the extraordinary sensation and culture of relaxation and well-being, which, centuries

ago, was an integral part of everyday life.

Hot steam baths, deep exfoliation with the traditional ketseas, massage by qualified masseurs (men and women), as well as tea with traditional loukoumia, all complete this experience of pleasure. The hotspot of the hamam has a capacity of 6 people, with a separate private area with ​​2 marble beds for exfoliation, massage and shampooing.

HAMMAM BATHS | 哈曼土耳其浴室

Agion Asomaton 17 & Melidoni 1, Thisseio, +30 210 3231073, info@hammam.gr, www.hammam.gr Monday – Friday: 12:30 - 22:00, 周一 – 周五: 12:30 - 22:00, Weekends: 10:00 - 22:00, 周末: 10:00 - 22:00

一种古老而传统的净化仪式曾在地中海地 区各伟大文明之间相互传播，以寻求身体 和灵魂的终极平衡。在古雅典城中心Thisseio地区，哈曼浴场的建立正是为了重塑 这种奢华的传统。独一无二的拱形屋顶，正 中央的圆形大理石台面以及独立水槽设 计，所有一切都尽量还原正宗土耳其浴室 风格，让今天的客人有机会体验当时的浴 室风俗和文化。哈曼浴场旨在让我们了解 这种非凡独特的放松身心和追求健康的文 化，众所周知，几个世纪以前，它是人们日 常生活中不可分割的一部分。桑纳浴，传统 深层去角质，专业按摩师以及热茶搭配希 腊传统露古米亚甜点，这些将构成一场完 美的享受体验。哈曼浴场可容纳6人，设有 独立的私人区域，配有2张大理石床，用于 去角质、按摩和洗护发。

ELEGANT TRAVEL

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INSIDER’ S GUIDE 内部指南 B Y D E S P O I N A S A M P S O N • 撰 稿：黛 丝 平 娜 · 桑 普 森

Frangakis

Which is your favourite spot in town - for waking up? Sunday at home in my lazy neighbourhood of Ano Petralona.

- for having your breakfast? Rare is the occasion for an Athenian to sit down for breakfast, so I have to say the historical pastry shop of Varsos in Kifisia, a vintage landmark.

- for celebrating? Vezené is a great place to celebrate with prime cuts of beef and “flutes” of Krug (the chef/owner is an ambassador of this unmatched champagne).

- for drinks with friends? The opulent Alexander’s bar of the Grande Bretagne hotel means true comfort.

- for dinner? Oikonomou in Ano Petralona is the best bet for great value family food. As Greek as it gets.

- for going out on a date? A cool place is Blue Bamboo.

A Thai bar-restaurant that has just the right size and a sexy vibe, but is also laid back and informal so your date won’t feel intimidated.

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热爱并享受生活的雅典 人带您领略雅典城市风 光。Andro.gr男士网站 和LadiesRun.gr女士 慈善比赛创始人Kimon Frangakis向您介绍他的 雅典最爱。 雅典城您最喜欢的部分 清晨醒来？ 周日在位于Ano Petralona的我家慵懒的阳台上。 早餐？ 雅典人很少真正坐下才吃早餐，对于我来说，我会去 Kifisia 地区历史悠久的Varsos糕点店，这是一个古董式地标。 庆祝特别时刻？ Vezené是举行庆祝活动的最佳选择，提供顶级牛 肉冷切和大名鼎鼎的库克香槟（餐厅老板兼主厨便是无与伦比的 库克香槟大使） 。 与朋友小酌一杯？ 大不列颠酒店优雅大气的亚历山大酒吧舒适友 好的氛围非常适合朋友聚会。 晚餐？ Ano Petralona地区的Oikonomou餐厅提供希腊当地家庭 美食，性价比非常高。 约会场地？ 蓝竹非常适合约会，这是一家泰式酒吧餐厅，大小合 适，极富情调，轻松惬意的氛围可以缓解初次约会的小尴尬。 雅典城的最美之处 开Party? Latraac可以滑冰，并欢快畅饮啤酒。Cantina Social很适 合跳舞狂欢。 休闲放松？ Polis Hammam洗浴中心提供蒸汽桑拿和按摩，最大

Photo: Nikoskaranikolas.com

KIMON

BON VIVEUR ATHENIANS GUIDE YOU AROUND THE CITY. KIMON FRANGAKIS, FOUNDER OF ANDRO.GR MEN'S WEBSITE AND LADIESRUN.GR WOMEN'S CHARITY RACE, IS THE FIRST TO REVEAL HIS PREFERENCES.

What are the best spots in town - for a party? Latraac for skating and beer swinging. Cantina Social for dancing after hours.

- for relaxing? Polis Hammam is a new place for steam baths, massages and relaxing in a grungy part of town, near major sites.

- for enjoying the view? This is also a relaxing place and has the best view to the sea, yachts and mountains beyond, in Piraeus: Sadhu hair, a top notch hair salon where washing your hair is like a mini spa treatment.

Which is the ideal place - for shopping; Bespoke Athens is a great place for men’s tailoring in Kolonaki.

- for inspiration; The Benaki museum, a “boutique” museum of sorts, with just the right proportions and a different outlook on Greek artifacts that goes beyond the obvious archaeological must-sees.

What should one buy from Athens?

Memorabilia from the Cycladic Museum Shop - check out the beautiful fish jewelry by Kimalé, made in Greece. Also, some delectable Trikalinos Bottarga from the airport.

How would you describe the style of the city?

Athens has many faces; one with an alternative edge, one of hip novelty, one of classical appeal, one of vintage cult. I personally like the way it crisscrosses through aeons and cultures in a single stride. Look for its Byzantine heritage besides the ancient ruins and for the vestiges of its traditional folk past, evident even in an old taverna.

What are its well hidden secrets?

Grab a lahmadjun, a sort of middle eastern flatbread with vegan toppings from Feyrouz, hidden in a side-street, not far from touristy Plaka. Check out the eclectic collection of rare design furniture at Antiqua in Kolonaki. Go to Moraitis in Schinias bay, a laid back and bohemian beach spot. The best espresso can be found at the Taf coffee shop of Emmanouil Benaki.

What makes you happy in Athens?

Walking briskly in the morning, past the presidential mansion, on my way to the office.

程度地放松身心，且遍布于市中心主要地段。 尽享美景？ 在这里您不仅可以放松自己，还可以欣赏到独一无二 的海景，眺望游艇和远处延绵的山脉，这就是位于比雷埃夫斯地 区的Sadhu Hair，这家顶级美发沙龙将为您的秀发带来迷你水疗 SPA般的最佳体验。 最佳场所 购物 Kolonaki地区的“定制雅典”为男士量身定制高级服装。 获得灵感 贝纳基博物馆是一座“精品古董”博物馆，设置精巧，匠心 独运，展示众多独一无二的希腊艺术品，您将在这里获得与其他名 胜古迹和考古遗址完全不同的感受和体验。 在雅典应该买什么？ 基克拉迪博物馆纪念品店有希腊制造的Kimalé精美首饰，以独 特的小鱼造型为灵感。以及机场不可错过的野生垯中海乌鱼子 Trikalinos Bottarga。 您如何描述雅典的城市风格？ 雅典有很多面孔，例如另类的边缘，新奇的时尚，厚重的古典吸引 力，古老的宗教信仰。我个人喜欢这种将未知与各种文化在单行线 中交错融合的感觉。例如找寻古老的拜占庭文化，除了考古遗址和 传统民间遗迹外，在一家古老的小酒馆中也会有意外的发现。 这座城市还隐藏着哪些秘密？ 来一个lahmadjun，这是一种来自中东的面包，点缀着Feyrouz独 特的素食浇头，这家店隐藏在一条窄窄的小巷之中，距离游人如织 的普拉卡老区不远；位于Kolonaki地区的Antiqua精品店内布满 了独特而有设计感的家具珍品；Schinias海湾的Moraitis酒吧，悠 闲而充满波西米亚风情；当然不 能错过拥有最美味浓缩咖啡的 Emmanouil Benak塔夫咖啡店。 雅典最让您觉得幸福的时刻是 什么？ 清晨时分我迈着轻快的步伐，穿 过总统官邸，向办公室走去。

FISH JEWELRY BY KIMALÉ, CYCLADIC MUSEUM SHOP

Kimalé珠宝, 基克拉迪博物馆纪念品店 ALEXANDER’S BAR GRANDE BRETAGNE

亚历山大酒吧 大不列颠酒店

ELEGANT TRAVEL

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STORY 故事 B Y G I O R G O S P A N A G I O T A K I S • 撰 稿：季 奥 吉 斯 · 帕 纳 吉 奥 塔 吉 斯

TRADITIONAL “PELADES” - PILLARED FISHERMEN HOUSES IN THE WATER 传统pelades, 渔民柱式水上小屋

MESSOLONGHI

A brave water world 迈索隆吉翁, 美丽水世界

AN IDEAL DESTINATION FOR THOSE WHO LOVE TRANQUILITY, GOOD FOOD AND BEING IN TOUCH WITH NATURE.

SALT HILLS IN THE MESSOLONGHI SALT MINE. 迈索隆吉翁盐矿盐山

A

s the morning mist dissolves, the lagoon of Messolonghi appears magnificent and serene. With a total area of over 200,000 acres, it is one of the largest lagoons in the Mediterranean, but also one of the world's most important wetlands protected by the Ramsar Convention.

Embraced in the lagoon’s arms, built on a strip of land, lies Messolonghi, a small picturesque city with a grave history! 在晨雾消散之际，迈索隆吉翁的环礁湖变 得宁静而壮美。它总面积达20万英亩，是地 中海地区最大的环礁湖之一，同时也被“拉 母塞湿地公约”列为世界最重要的保护湿 地。小城迈索隆吉翁建在环礁湖中的一弯 陆地上，风景如画，历史悠久。

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Photos: George Katsanakis（(10AΜ)/ Shutterstock 摄影师：乔治·卡赞纳吉斯 （10AΜ)/ Shutterstock

这是您追求宁静，美食，亲近自然的理想之所

The city of freedom 自由之城

The first inhabitants of Messolonghi were, naturally, fishermen. Between the 16th and 19th century, the city evolved into a naval hub. In the years of the Greek Revolution, it witnessed two severe sieges and was crowned with everlasting glory.

On 10 April 1826, after a one-year siege, the exhausted inhabitants chose to die by attempting a heroic mass breakout, instead of surrendering to the mighty Turkish-Egyptian forces. Their sacrifice has made Messolonghi a worldwide symbol of resistance.

The old restored walls and Entrance Gate from which the ‘Exodus’ occurred are situated at the entrance of the presentday city. Nearby, at Kipos ton Iroon (the Garden of Heroes) stands the burial tomb with the bones of the dead heroes from 1829. There are also monuments dedicated to the defenders of Messolonghi. Among them were many foreign fighters, as well as the English poet Lord Byron who died here during the siege. “Every free man is a citizen of Messolonghi”, states the inscription by the poet Loukis Akritas just outside the site.

THE LAGOON OF MESSOLONGHI 迈索隆吉翁泄湖

迈索隆吉翁的第一批居民应该是渔民。16 世纪至19世纪期间，这个城市发展成为了 海军中枢。在希腊革命之际，它曾两次被军 队围困，也因此被赋予了永恒的荣誉。1826 年4月10日，在受困一年后，已然陷入绝境 的居民并没有向希腊土耳其联军的武力低 头，他们宁死不屈，集体弃城而走。他们的 牺牲让迈索隆吉翁在世界舞台上成为了反 抗的象征。 如今，经过修缮的古老城墙和当时人们集 体离去时经过的大门坐落在城市入口处。 在附近的英雄花园中矗立着一座墓地，这 里是1829年牺牲英雄的埋骨处。此外，城中 还为希腊独立战争时期的反抗者树立了纪 念碑。他们中的很多人来自国外，英国诗人 拜伦勋爵也是其中一员，他逝世于迈城沦 陷之际。花园外还刻着诗人路克斯·阿克里 塔斯的感言： “凡崇尚自由者，皆为迈城之 公民” 。

ENTRANCE GATE. ABOVE, LORD BYRON’S HOUSE. 城市入口；上图，拜伦勋爵之家

ARCHITECTURE 建筑

A stroll in the city’s streets brings us in front of two beautiful old houses; the first one of Charilaos Trikoupis (1832-1896), the former Greek Prime Minister, and the other is the house of the poet Kostis Palamas (1859-1943), both of which have been converted into museums.

Another neoclassical building from 1835, the Moschandreou Gallery of Contemporary Art, exhibits works of art from the 19th and 20th century.

(2 K. Trikoupi, pinakothiki.org, +30 26310 51016)

我们漫步在迈城街上，不经意间来到 了两个漂亮的老房子跟前，其中一 个是希腊前总理拉奥斯·特里库皮斯 （1832-1896）的故居，另一个是诗人 科斯蒂斯·帕拉马斯（1859-1943）的 故居，二者现已改造为博物馆。此外， 这里还有一座建于1835年的新古典主 义风格建筑——莫斯韩德欧当代艺术 画廊，画廊中陈列着19至20世纪的艺 术作品。 （地址：2 K. Trikoupi；网址： pinakothiki.org；电话： +30 26310 51016）

ELEGANT TRAVEL

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STORY 故事 INFO 信息

Local businesses rent bicycles and canoes to the visitors. They also organise small excursions for birdwatching, ecotourism explorations and fishing.

Organised excursions: Discover Messolonghi (6 Eleftheron Poliorkimenon Street, discovermessolonghi.com +302631025545), Aqua Action (aquaaction.gr, +302631055964), Canoe rentals: Messolonghi Nautical Club (nommes.gr, +302631026970), Bicycle rentals: Houtas Bikes (31 Eleftheron Poliorkimenon Street, +30 2631025553), MOTOCiCLO (25 Vironos, +30 26310 55628)

Bird watching and other activities 观鸟与其它活动

Many fish species live in the shallow waters of the lagoon, while small mammals and reptiles nest in the dunes and saltwater swamps of the national park. Added to the ecosystem are approximately 270 bird species, including the extremely rare Dalmatian Pelicans, the Aeygypius Monachus and the Falco Naumanni. There are also Herons, Flamingos, Eurasian Coots, various kinds of eagles and hawks, as well as an abundance of melodious nightingales. Naturally, Messolonghi is a favourite destination for the international community of birdwatchers.

The ecosystem’s harmony is truly felt when one takes a walk to the Tourlida islet which is connected to the city by a motorway, a pedestrian walkway and a bicycle path.

The route that passes by the traditional “pelades” (the pillared fishermen houses in the water) becomes enchanting during the sunset.

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很多鱼类生活在环礁湖的浅水水域中，另 外，在国家公园的沙丘和盐水沼泽里，也生 活着各种小型哺乳动物和爬行动物。在这 个生态系统内，有近270种鸟类，包括极其 珍贵的卷羽鹈鹕、秃鹫和黄爪隼。这里也是 鹭鸟、火烈鸟、欧亚黑鸭、各种鹰鹫和有着 婉转歌声的夜莺的家。因此，迈城便成为了 国际观鸟爱好者的最佳目的地。 在图丽札小岛上散步，您便能真真切切地 体会到这个生态系统的和谐之处。小岛通 过一条高速公路、一条人行道和一条自行 车道与迈城连接。这条道路穿过当地渔民 的传统柱状房屋，日落时分，更添上了几分 迷人的姿色。

当地企业不仅向游客出租自行车和独 木舟，而且组织了以观鸟、生态游和钓 鱼为特色的短途旅行。 游览团：发现迈城（地址：6 Eleftheron Poliorkimenon Street；网 址：discovermessolonghi.com；电 话：+302631025545） 水之旅（网址：aquaaction.gr；电 话：+302631055964） 独木舟租赁：迈索隆吉翁航海俱 乐部（网址：nommes.gr；电话： +302631026970） 单车租赁：Houtas Bikes（地址：31 Eleftheron Poliorkimenon Street；电 话：+30 2631025553） MOTOCiCLO（地址：25 Vironos；电 话：+30 26310 5562）

LARGE SWAMP AREA. TRADITIONAL FISHERBOATS 大沼泽区域；传统渔船

GORGONA ORANGE TOTE BAG

ETHNIKOS KIPOS MAGNET

ELIA APRON

ELIA BEACH CUSHION

GORGONES CUSHION

VOULI ELEMENT RUCKSAC

橙色美人鱼手提包

希腊国家公园冰箱贴

橄榄沙滩垫

橄榄围裙

美人鱼坐垫

国会厅图案背包

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STORY 故事

Avgotaraho The precious ‘gold’ of the Lagoon 鱼子调味酱—— 环礁湖的馈赠

Avgotaraho (fish roe or botargo) is Messolonghi’s most famous viand, a sea treasure with great nutritional value that is produced in relatively small quantities with a method unchanged for centuries.

“My father learned how to make avgotaraho from my grandfather, and he in turn from his father”, says Mr. Nikos Magdalinos, a fisherman and avgotaraho producer, here in Messolonghi. “Now the art has passed on to me and my two brothers”. Mr. Nikos has spent almost his entire life fishing. Not just in the shallow waters of the lagoon, but also in the Gulf of Patras and the Ionian Sea. “When the cold current enters the lagoon, the mullets swim to meet it and reproduce there. Then they get trapped in the “ivaria”, the traditional fishing weirs we have set up. From July to October, the female mullets called bafes, produce the eggs. We collect them one by one and carefully remove the pod with the eggs that weigh up to two, three or even five hundred grams. We cover them in salt from

the lagoon and after we clean them, we let them dry in the air. Finally, we dip them in natural bees wax so that the product remains unaltered for at least a year. Avgotaraho is also made from other fish. For example, bass fish as they enter the lagoon when there is a rough sea”. We ask him what makes the avgotaraho of Messolonghi so unique and more delicious than the one produced in other areas. "I believe that it is the salt from the lagoon and the water, which is rich in ammonium and iodine. In addition, as long as the fish are in the ivaria weirs, they are fed in a natural way. We do not have to feed them; it’s a perfectly natural process. We respect nature, and in turn nature rewards us”. Avgotaraho can be served thinly sliced on bread and selected fruit, or used as an ingredient in salads and various dishes. Besides its fine flavour and amber texture, it is an important source of protein, vitamins and Omega-3 fatty acids.

TRADITIONAL AGVOTARAHO STEFOS 传统鱼子酱作坊

鱼子调味酱是迈索隆吉翁最著名的美食， 这一海中佳肴具有丰富的营养价值，经流 传了数个世纪的传统方法精心制作而成， 且数量有限。尼科斯·玛格达利诺斯先生是 居住在迈城的鱼子调味酱制作人和渔民， 他告诉我们： “我的父亲从祖父那里学习了 如何制作鱼子调味酱，祖父是从曾祖父那 里学到的这个技艺，现在，父亲又将这门手 艺传给了我和另外两个兄弟。”尼科斯有生 之年，几乎都与捕鱼相伴。除了在环礁湖的 浅水域外，他还踏足了帕特雷湾和爱奥尼 亚海。 “在寒流席卷环礁湖之际，鲻鱼会游 到湖中产卵。接着，它们会落入我们制作的 传统捕鱼鱼梁（ivaria）中。从7月到10月，雌 性鲻鱼会在鱼梁里产卵，我们会逐一收集 鱼卵，小心翼翼地去除卵荚， 这些鱼卵重达200甚至500 克。然后，我们会清洗鱼卵， 将其腌入环礁湖湖盐中，再 在空气中晾干。最后，我们将 鱼卵浸泡在天然蜂蜡里，这 能帮助鱼卵至少在一年内保 持风味。当然，我们也利用 其它鱼类的鱼子制作鱼子 调味酱，如鲈鱼，在遇到狂 风大浪的时候，鲈鱼会游到 环礁湖中。”我们向尼科斯询 问，是什么让迈城的鱼子调味酱如此独特， 且风味优于其它地区鱼子酱，他回答道： “我相信是环礁湖的盐和水，它们含有丰富 的氨盐基和碘。再者，在这些鱼受困于鱼梁 的时候，它们的食物依旧源于自然，我们并 不会去喂它们。这是一个完美的自然流程， 我们尊重自然，自然便会回赠于我们。”鱼子 调味酱可以薄薄地涂抹在面包片和水果上， 或用于制作沙拉与其它佳肴。除了享有美味 的口感和琥珀般的质感外，它还含有丰富的 蛋白质、维生素和欧米茄-3脂肪酸。 AVGOTARAHO SERVED. NIKOS MAGDALINOS, PRODUCER.

鱼子酱拼盘；尼科斯·玛格达利诺斯，鱼籽酱制作人

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SEARCH FOR 搜索

Traditional Avgotaraho Stefos.

Tour the workshop, see all the stages of production and try the avgotaraho appetizers from the buffet. Tour with buffet 4€. (BouzaAitoliko, botargostefos.gr, +30 26320 22077).

Trikalinos. A family business in the avgotaraho occupation since 1856.

The company’s products - including the award-winning fleur de sel -, are also served in reputable restaurants, such as the El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain, the L’ Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Taipei and Prevenance in Tokyo. (trikalinos.gr) Kava Pasiopoulos. Avgotaraho made by local producers, with an extensive wine selection and flavours from Messolonghi. (Arh. Damaskinou & Metaxa Messolonghi, avgotaraxo. gr, +3026310 24204) 传统鱼子酱作坊，参观这家作坊，了 解鱼子调味酱制作的所有环节，品尝 鱼子酱开胃小菜自助餐，参观费与餐 费：4欧元。（地址：Bouza-Aitoliko； 网址：botargostefos.gr；电话：+30

26320 22077） 特里卡里诺斯始于1856年，前身是一 家鱼子调味酱家庭作坊。公司产品包 括备受赞誉的“盐之花” ，在各种颇有 名气的餐馆皆有供应，包括西班牙希 罗纳的赫罗那餐厅，台北侯布雄法式 餐厅和东京Prevenance法式餐厅。

（网址：trikalinos.gr） 卡瓦·帕希奥普洛斯，供应当地人 制作的鱼子调味酱，配上迈索隆吉 翁精选美酒和其它当地美味。 （地 址：Arh. Damaskinou & Metaxa Messolonghi；网址：avgotaraxo.gr； 电话：+3026310 24204）

Flavours, products, shopping 吃喝玩乐购

Messolonghi is the centre of a mild growth region which produces pure products. The local dishes are dominated by fish (grilled, fried or cured) and seafood. Locals have a particular fondness for eels which are cooked in various ways. However, there is no shortage of good organic meat that comes from the nearby mountain villages.

Food is always accompanied by salt from the lagoon. The entirely natural process of production starts in March, when the seawater is channeled and crystallised in special basins. During the summer, the salt is dried outdoors in huge piles that look like snow-capped mountains and the salt collection usually takes place early in the fall. In the salt marshes one can see many flamingos that create pink blotches with their plumage on the white landscape.

The region of Aitoloakarnania has been renowned since ancient times for its excellent wine. Present-day wine producers follow in the steps of their ancestors. The most famous local variety is the Malagousia. Also the honey produced in different varieties is of high quality.

以迈索隆吉翁为中心的地区经济发展速度 比较缓慢，主要生产纯天然产品。当地佳肴 以鱼类（烤、炸和腌）与海鲜为主。当地人对 鳗鱼也青睐有加，为此创造了多种烹饪方 式。同时，该地区还盛产高品质有机肉类， 这些肉类均来自附近的山村。 当地食物通常以环礁湖湖盐为佐料。湖盐 生产流程完全天然，始于3月盐水流入沟渠 且在特殊的盆地中结晶之际。夏季，成片的 盐在户外晾晒，宛如覆盖在峰顶的皑皑白 雪。盐粒收集过程通常开始于早秋。此外， 盐沼中还栖息着很多火烈鸟，它们为这一 片洁白的景色点缀上了浪漫的粉色印花。 埃托利亚-阿卡纳尼亚州自古代起就因美酒 而闻名，如今的酿酒师依旧遵循古法。当地 最有名的美酒要数玛拉格西亚品种。此外， 这里也生产高品质蜂蜜。

TSIPOURO AND OUZO ΠΕΛΑΔΑ (PELADA).

ABOVE, SPECIAL PRODUCTS FROM GAEA GREEK BRAND.

希腊七浦罗烈酒和茴香烈酒；上图， 希腊品牌GAEA特色产品

ELEGANT TRAVEL

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STORY 故事 GAEA: (Gaea’s factory: 1.5kms from the center of Agrinion city). Authentic, superior quality products, full of flavour and goodness. Most awarded extra virgin olive oils, olives and sauces in the world.

Ex Apostaseos: (Port of Messolonghi, +30 2631 025910). Seafood appetizers, Mediterranean flavours and Greek spirits, right by the water.

Dimitroukas: (11 Razikotsika, +30 2631 023237). An old classic fish taverna. Try the roast eel. There are also some meat dishes.

Alatiera: (Port of Messolonghi, +30 2631 022943). A modern place for coffee, drinks and food that is practically immersed in the water. Fine flavours, cocktails and desserts.

Xiros: (messolonghisalt.gr). Natural unprocessed salt in various forms (fine, medium, coarse), but also fleur de sel, the salt with a low percentage of moisture.

Sotiriou Winery: (Lesini Messolonghi, sotiriouwinery. gr +30 2632 031 101) Traditional wine varieties, such as the Malagousia, Gustolidi and Mavroudi which are produced in 110 acres of vineyard, with a tasteful wine bar.

Oinos Petrino Horio: (oinospetrinohorio. com +30 26440 22605) Located in Petrochori of Aitoloakarnania, in an area with ​​a long wine-making tradition. Other than the regional Malagousia, an excellent MerlotSyrah is also produced here.

Thestia Winery: (Kainourgio Village, thestia.com, +30 210 96 40 509) Found to the north of Messolonghi, close to lake Trichonida, where the microclimate favours both the indigenous and international varieties.

Melvita: Local honey which has been awarded in international competitions.

Honey varieties from thyme, asfaka flower honey, orange, and more.

The Honey Hive: (thehoneyhive.gr) Varieties of pure honey from Aitoloakarnania made from thyme, fir, orange, chestnut, reiki, and more.

Workshop of Traditional Costumes by Zoe Steliou: (I. Ragou 6, zoisteliou.gr +30 26320 24009). Handmade costumes from the region of Aitoloakarnania, as well as from the rest of Greece.

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GAEA’S OLIVES. TRADITIONAL WINE VARIETIES, SUCH AS THE MALAGOUSIA.

GAEA橄榄；传统葡萄 酒品种，如玛拉格西亚

GAEA：Gaea工厂距离Agrinion市中心1.5 公里，生产正宗优质希腊特色风味产品，包 括在世界各大比赛获得众多荣誉的橄榄 油、橄榄和调味品。 Ex Apostaseos:（地址：迈索隆吉翁港口；电 话：+30 2631 025910）提供海鲜开胃菜，地 中海风味与希腊烈酒，尽享海景。 Dimitroukas:（地址：11 Razikotsika；电 话：+30 2631 023237）传统海鲜小酒馆，必 点菜肴为烤鳗鱼，也提供各式肉类佳肴。 Alatiera:（地址：迈索隆吉翁港口；电话： +30 2631 022943）现代咖啡餐吧，提供咖 啡、饮品和美食，尽享海景，风味独特，提供 各式鸡尾酒和甜点。 Xiros:（网址：messolonghisalt.gr）提供各式 纯天然湖盐（包括精细、中度和粗盐） ，还有大 名鼎鼎的“盐之花” ，这里的盐含水率非常低。 Sotiriou 酒庄： （地址：Lesini Messolonghi； 网址：sotiriouwinery.gr；电话：+30 2632 031 101）提供传统葡萄酒品种包括玛拉格西亚、 卡斯特里帝和马弗罗蒂，葡萄庄园面积达110

英亩，内设品味不俗的葡萄酒吧。 Oinos Petrino Horio:（网址：oinospetrino horio.com；电话：+30 26440 22605）坐落于 埃托利亚-阿卡纳尼亚州的派特考丽地区，这 里拥有悠久的葡萄酒酿造历史，除了当地玛 拉格西亚品种外，还生产优质的梅洛-西拉。 Thestia酒庄:（地址：Kainourgio Village；网 址：thestia.com；电话：+30 210 96 40 509） 位于迈索隆吉翁北部，毗邻特里霍尼扎湖，当 地极具优势的小气候培养除了众多国际和当 地葡萄酒品种。 Melvita: 生产的当地蜂蜜多次在国际比赛中 获得嘉奖，蜂蜜品种包括百里香蜂蜜、阿斯发 卡花蜂蜜和橙花蜂蜜。 蜂巢:（网址：thehoneyhive.gr）提供种类繁多的 埃托利亚-阿卡纳尼亚州纯天然蜂蜜，包括百里 香蜂蜜、冷山蜂蜜、橙花蜂蜜和栗子蜂蜜等等。 Zoe Steliou传统服饰作坊： （地址：I. Ragou 6； 网址：zoisteliou.gr；网址：+30 26320 24009） 来自埃托利亚-阿卡纳尼亚州和其他希腊地区 的传统手工服饰。

A WALK IN AITOLIKO 漫步艾托丽考

Nearby destinations 周边旅游目的地

To the west side of the lagoon is the archaeological site of Oiniades. The ancient city had a strong fortification and a harbour perhaps the best preserved from the ancient world. The Festival of Ancient Theatre is held every summer at the theatre that was built in the 4th century BC. The ruins of Plevrona, northwest of Messolonghi are also impressive. Advantageously located at the foothills of Mount Arakinthos, Plevrona was able to control both the sea routes, as well as the lagoon with its salt marshes. The wall made in the 3rd century BC remains in excellent condition, as does the ancient theatre. At a 2 kilometre distance from Messolonghi, we find the Roman Baths of Aghios Thomas (2nd century AD). The 7 metre walls still stand, and the site’s layout seems to indicate a unique luxury.

位于环礁湖西端的是Oiniades城邦考古遗 址。这座古老的城邦设有坚固的防御工事 和海港，这或是世界上保存最完好的古代 工事。每年夏季当地剧院都举办古戏剧节， 该剧院修建于公元4世纪。迈索隆吉翁西北 部的裴罗劳纳遗迹同样让人印象深刻。裴 罗劳纳地理位置优越，坐落在阿拉金索斯山 脚下，既控制着海路，又控制着环礁湖的盐 沼。古剧院和修建于公元3世纪的城墙依旧 状态良好。在距离迈城2公里处，我们发现 了阿吉斯托马斯的罗马浴场（公元2世纪） 。 7米长的城墙依然屹立不倒，遗址的布局也 彰显着曾经的别样奢华。

Locals call it ‘Little Venice’ because it is built in the middle of the lagoon, on an island that is joined with the mainland by two bridges. The paved alleyways, the old mansions and small ouzo taverns with delicious local delicacies are good enough reasons to visit the island. There is also an Engraving Museum there with works by the engraver Vaso Katraki (1914-1988). 艾托丽考坐落在环礁湖中央的一座小 岛上，通过两座桥与大陆地区相连接， 被当地人称为“小威尼斯” 。精心铺砌 的街头小巷，古老典雅的宅邸与供应 着特色美食和茴香酒的小酒馆已经为 您提供了充足的到访理由。另外，这里 还有一个雕塑馆，展览着雕像家瓦索· 卡特拉基（1914-1988）的作品。

ANCIENT THEATRE OF OINIADES 伊尼亚德斯古剧场

We warmly thank Elena Mantziou - Kotrolou, who has been a valuable guide during the Elegant Travel mission to Messolonghi

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INTERNATIONAL EVENTS 国际盛事 B Y I O A N N A G K O M O U Z A • 撰 稿：伊 安 娜 • 古 木 札

INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ART, LOS ANGELES 当代艺术学院，洛杉矶

A WORLD OF ARTS 艺术世界

AROUND THE WORLD | 纵观全球

IT IS POURING WITH NEW MUSEUMS This season, we are tempted to become travellers with an art cause, and this is not by accident, since the invitations to new museum openings are pouring in! Interested in finding out about the here and now of Indonesian art? The MACAN has just opened in Nusantara. Packing a suitcase for the Emirates or Los Angeles? Then a stop is required at the Louvre Abu Dhabi, and the Institute of Contemporary Art respectively. Fascinated by the fashion world of the great couturier Yves Saint Laurent? All roads lead to his Paris atelier and the new exhibition space of the ​​ Pierre Berge - Yves Saint Laurent Foundation in Marrakech.

And there is more to come as the ICA Miami debuts in December, while in spring we can look forward to the new exhibition home of the Museum of Contemporary Art Toronto Canada.

EXTERIOR OF ICA MIAMI. STILL LIFE, POLAROID PHOTOGRAPH BY TOM BARRATT. NICOLE EISENMAN, MORNING STUDIO, 2016, OIL ON CANVAS, PRIVATE COLLECTION, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST 迈阿密当代艺术研究所外部；静物，由汤姆·巴勒 特拍摄；妮可·艾森曼，Morning Studio，2016 年，油画，私人收藏，由艺术家提供

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本季度众多新开业博物馆大量涌现，让我们以艺 术之名开启一场盛大的博物馆之旅吧！您有兴趣 了解印度尼西亚艺术的过去与现在吗？马来世界 的 MACAN刚刚开业。打包行李正准备前往阿联酋 或洛杉矶？一定要在阿布扎比卢浮宫和当代艺术 研究所短暂停留。折服于高级女装设计师伊夫·圣 罗兰创造的迷人时装世界？不管身处何方，您都可 以前往他在巴黎的时尚工作室，以及位于马拉喀 什的皮埃尔·伯杰 - 伊夫·圣罗兰基金会新展览中 心。除此之外还有更多，迈阿密当代艺术研究所将 于12月正式上线，明年春季期待已久的加拿大多 伦多当代艺术博物馆新展厅将正式开放。

Photo of ICA Miami exterior: Iwan Baan, © Lucas Samaras, courtesy Pace Galler y

新的博物馆正如雨后春笋般涌现

© Louvre Abu Dhabi, Photography: Mohamed Somji, © Reginald Gray, © Nicolas Mathéus (2)

LOUVRE ABU DHABI, VIEW OVERLOOKING THE SEA 阿布扎比卢浮宫，俯瞰大海

YVES SAINT LAURENT, MUSÉE YVES SAINT LAURENT MARRAKECH, FONDATION JARDIN MAJORELLE 伊夫圣罗兰；伊夫圣罗兰马 拉喀什博物馆；基金会马若 雷勒花园

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INTERNATIONAL EVENTS 国际盛事

FONDATION LOUIS VUITTON, PARIS

路易威登基金会，巴黎

THE MOMA IN BOULOGNE 布洛涅现代艺术博物馆

Max Beckmann, Alexander Calder, Paul Cezanne, Marcel Duchamp, Jasper Johns, Pablo Picasso, Paul Signac, Andy Warhol... The stars of the Museum of Modern Art in New York will spend the winter in the French capital. In the flowing cocoon of the Louis Vuitton Foundation (designed

by Frank Gehry), the exhibition Being Modern: MoMA in Paris traces the collective history of the American Museum through two hundred works of art. From emblematic paintings, like Edward Hopper’s House by the Railroad (acquired in 1934), to contemporary creations obtained over the past two years (e.g. the original emoji by Shigetaka Kurita), and from sculptures (Brancusi’s Bird in Space for the first time time in Paris), to architecture and photography. (www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr/en.html, until 5/3/2018)

马克斯·贝克曼，亚历山大·考尔德，保罗· 塞尚，马塞尔·杜尚，贾斯培·琼斯，巴勃罗· 毕加索，保罗·西涅克，安迪·沃霍尔……纽 约现代艺术博物馆的闪耀之星们将在法国首都度过这个冬天。在路易 威登基金会艺术博物馆（由弗兰克·盖里设计）中，展览《成为现代》正在 进行，现代艺术博物馆来到巴黎，通过展示两百件艺术作品，追溯美国 博物馆的集体发展历史。展品从爱德华·霍珀的《铁路之家》 （1934年获 得）到近两年的当代作品（如栗田茂重的原始emoji表情） ，还有众多雕塑 （布朗库西的《太空之鸟》首次在巴黎展出） 、建筑和摄影作品。 （www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr/en.html，截止至2018年3月5日） PAUL SIGNAC. RIRKRIT TIRAVANIJA. ROY LICHTENSTEIN. ELLSWORTH KELLY. 保罗·西涅克；里克力· 提拉瓦尼；罗伊·利希滕 斯坦；埃斯沃兹·凯利

BRUCE NAUMAN. CINDY SHERMAN. 布鲁斯·瑙曼；辛迪·谢尔曼

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BALL SEASON, VIENNA | 舞会季，维也纳

DO YOU DANCE THE WALTZ? 来一曲华尔兹吗？

The best time to twirl to the Viennese waltz rhythms is now. In the city that celebrates ballroom dancing (more than 450 take place every year), the dance season reaches its peak in January and February.

Pack a formal outfit and make a reservation for dancing in a setting that matches your taste: at the magnificent Hofburg Palace, at the glowing Musicverein Hall to the sounds of the Vienna Philharmonic (under the direction of Pla ΄cido Domingo), the Wiener Staatsoper, as well as the evening ball events of professionals (doctors, lawyers etc).

All appointments can be made at: https://www.wien.info/en/musicstage-shows/dance/ball-season

现在是到维也纳来一曲悠扬的华尔兹并随之翩翩起舞的最佳时机。维也纳每 年都举行庆祝舞会（每年有450多场） ，舞蹈季通常在1月和2月达到顶峰。穿 上美丽迷人的华服，开启预定模式，根据您的品味选择舞会场地：奢华宏伟的 霍夫堡宫；由维也纳爱乐乐团伴奏的熠熠生辉的音乐厅（由普拉西多·多明 格指挥） ；维也纳国家歌剧院以及为专业从职人员（医生，律师等）组织的晚间 舞会等。所有舞场均可在线预约：https：//www.wien.info/en/music-stageshows/dance/ball-season

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INTERNATIONAL EVENTS 国际盛事

TATE MODERN, LONDON

THE DREAM 梦想

泰特现代美术馆，伦敦

THE MIRROR 镜子

PICASSO IN 1932

毕加索在1932年

1932年被宣称为“奇迹年” ，这一年对毕加索的一生 来说为何如此特别？泰特现代美术馆将展出这位标 新立异的艺术家的首次个人展《毕加索1932年：爱 情，名声，悲剧》 ，我们将有机会逐一探索他在1932年 的人生轨迹，这位20世纪初最具影响力的艺术家在 这一年建立了自己的声望，将其艺术延伸到了一个 新的感性层面。将展出众多作品，如《裸体，绿叶和半 身像》 ， 《黑色扶手椅上的裸体》 ， 《镜子》——被认为是 他情人Marie-Thérèse Walter的肖像，以及《镜前少 女》和《梦》 ，这些伟大的作品 85年来终于再次聚集在 了一起。（www.tate.org.uk，8 / 3-9 / 9/2018）

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SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE, SYDNEY | 悉尼歌剧院，悉尼

MEET ME AT THE WATERFRONT 在水一方

These words could be written under the sparkling firework display in the sky, as the worlds’ most photographed New Year’s Eve is celebrated right on the waterfront of the Australian city. Indeed, whenever we find ourselves in Sydney we do not miss the chance to pop in the Opera House, its most famous landmark; and therein, there is something for everyone: theatrical performances (e.g. Antony and Cleopatra, 3/3-7/4), contemporary and classical music concerts, shows with Captain Hook and Brainiacs experiments for children and, of course, a lyrical repertoire catered for all tastes and for all weather (from The Merry Widow, Carmen and La Traviata, to Don Quixote and the exuberant The Nose under the direction of the inventive Barrie Kosky!). (www.sydneyoperahouse.com)

夜空中闪闪发光的彩色焰火构成了这些文字，世界上最绚烂夺目的新年除夕盛 会正在澳大利亚海滨城市举行。事实上只要我们有机会去悉尼，肯定不会错过最 著名的地标性建筑—— 悉尼歌剧院。在这里，每 个人都会找寻到自己想 要的东西：戏剧表演（如 《安东尼和克里奥帕特 拉》 ，3月3日-4月7日） ， 当代和古典音乐会， 《胡 克船长》和儿童剧《布莱 尼亚克》表演，当然还有 适合所有人的抒情剧目 （从《风流寡妇》 、 《卡门》 、 《 茶 花 女 》到《 唐 吉 诃 德》和《鼻子》 ，由颇具创 造力的巴里·科斯基执 导） 。 （www.sydneyoperahouse.com）

SHUTTERSTOCK

The year 1932 has been proclaimed the “year of wonders”, but what makes it so special for Picasso’s life?

In the first solo exhibition of this innovative artist at the Tate Modern, titled “Picasso 1932 - Love, Fame, Tragedy”, we will have the opportunity to unravel his life, month by month, in a year when he established his persona as the most influential artist of the early 20th century, stretching his art to a new level of sensuality. Works such as the Nude, Green Leaves and Bust, Nude in a Black Armchair and The Mirror - portraits of his lover, Marie-Thérèse Walter -, as well as the emblematic Girl Before a Mirror, Rest, Sleep, The Dream, are once again united for the first time time in 85 years. (www.tate.org.uk, 8/3-9/9/2018)

THE MET FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK | MET第五大道，纽约

OCTOPUS FRONTLET, 300– 600, MOCHE CULTURE. Octopus Frontlet，300-600， 莫切文化

SEEKING THE GOLDEN KINGDOMS OF ANCIENT AMERICA 寻求古代美洲的黄金王国

Were the Incas, the Aztecs and their predecessors skillful goldsmiths? How important was metallurgy to their societies and for what purpose? What value would a feather have against gold on the scales? The exhibition Golden Kingdoms, Luxury and Legacy in the Ancient Americas, comes to the MET Fifth Avenue to track the emergence and development of goldworking in ancient America, from its early appearance in the Andes to its subsequent evolution in Central America and Mexico. More than 300 works of art, by 53 lenders in 12 countries: a blockbuster with a definite glow! (www.metmuseum.org, 27 / 2-28 / 5/2018)

© Louvre Abu Dhabi, Photography: Mohamed Somji, © Reginald Gray, © Nicolas Mathéus (2)

NATIONAL THEATRE, THE OLD VIC, LONDON 国家剧院，老维克，伦敦

THIS SEASON’S GREAT THEATRICAL TRUMP CARDS 本赛季之王牌戏剧

Heading out to the British capital must surely be followed by a theatrical outing. Even more so if you can enjoy it on stage and with a 3-course dinner! Hold the restless National Theatre accountable for its performance Network at the Lyttelton Theatre, which gives the opportunity to some of the audience to literally enjoy it from within! Tickets are in high demand, but when it comes to obtaining this precious small paper for the theatre-lover, hope dies last, as we well know. (www.nationaltheatre.org.uk/shows/foodwork, until 24/3/2018). Once again at the Old Vic, we have more deals to settle. Following its debut at the Edinburgh Festival, The Divide moves down to the theatre in London to explore a story of rebellion and forbidden love set in a dystopian society of oppression. (www.oldvictheatre.com, 1-10 /2)

印加人、阿兹特克人以及他们的祖辈是技巧娴熟的 金匠吗？冶金对于他们的社会有何重要影响？他们 冶金的目的是什么？羽毛相对于黄金有什么价值？ 古代美洲《黄金王国-奢华与遗产》展览来到MET第五 大道，追寻古代美洲黄金冶炼的产生及发展，从早期 安第斯山脉发现黄金到此后在中美洲和墨西哥的演 变。共展出来自12个国家53家提供方的愈300件艺术 作品，正可谓展览界的重磅出击，不容错过！ （www.metmuseum.org，27 / 2-28 / 5/2018）

前往英国首都一定不能 错过各大戏剧表演，更 不可思议的是您甚至可 以在舞台上零距离观 赏，享用三道菜英式晚 宴！由英国国家剧院制 作的剧作《网络》正在利 特尔顿剧院上演，部分 观众更有机会近距离享 受这惊世之作！市场异 常火爆，一票难求，众多 剧院爱好者希冀着那张 珍贵的小小门票，我们 知道不到最后一刻希望便不会消失。 （www.nationaltheatre.org.uk/shows/foodwork，截止至2018年3月24日） 。在老维克还有更多 演出和表演。继爱丁堡音乐节首次亮相之后， 《隔绝》 将前往伦敦剧院，该剧探讨了在反乌托邦社会禁锢 背景之下关于叛逆与禁忌之爱的故事。 （www.oldvictheatre.com，1-10 / 2）

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INTERNATIONAL EVENTS 国际盛事

SFMOMA, SAN FRANCISCO | 当代艺术博物馆，旧金山

ROBERT RAUSCHENBERG: ERASING THE RULES 罗伯特·劳森伯格：删除规则

With his disrespectful, but “sharp” outlook, he defied the traditional artistic practices of his time by erasing the rules, but also erasing a piece by his fellow artist Willem de Kooning! The renowned Erased De Kooning Drawing is presented in a Robert Rauschenberg retrospective, which, following the Tate Modern London and MoMA in New York, travels to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. This tribute includes six fertile decades of the artist’s defining work in contemporary art, emphasising on his iconoclastic approach, his art with a wide range of multidisciplinary working processes and his frequent collaborations with other artists. (www.sfmoma.org/, until 25/3/2018)

ROBERT RAUSCHENBERG, ERASING THE RULES: MONOGRAM 1955-59; BED 1955-ROBERT RAUSCHENBERG FOUNDATION 罗伯特·劳森伯格，删除规则：字母组合19551959；1955床，罗伯特·劳森伯格基金会

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他以不尊重但“尖锐”的眼光，蔑视他所在时代的 传统艺术实践，他抹去规则，也抹去了同行艺术家 威廉·德·库宁的一幅作品！赫赫有名的《已擦除的 德·库宁的作品》在罗伯特·劳森伯格回顾展中展 出，此展览之前在伦敦泰特现代美术馆和纽约现 代艺术博物馆举行，现在来到旧金山现代艺术博 物馆。回顾展致敬了这位伟大的艺术家为当代艺 术贡献出了富有成果的60个春秋，强调其打破传 统艺术界限，形成独特的艺术表现方式，他的艺术 作品广泛涉及多学科领域，并与其他艺术家频繁 进行合作。 （www.sfmoma.org/，截止至2018年3月25日）

HIGHLIFE 品质生活

A

n entrepreneur, a dreamer and a gentleman.

Having studied economics and with a dream of following a diplomatic career, he eventually created his own jewellery retail company in 1969. In 1982, the KESSARIS house moved to the famous corner of Panepistimiou and Voukourestiou streets, with a philosophy of a business with a smile and good mood. Hiding behind his company’s impressive growth, lies persistence, honesty and good customer relations, which all make up the qualities of a successful entrepreneur in the jewellery business. The plans not yet materialised are the ones that keep him alert, while his biggest joy in life are his children and grandchildren. Costas Kessaris is proud to be Greek, loves his homeland and the choices it has to offer. Today, the company has two stores right in the heart of Athens, two stores in Mykonos (in Chora and Psarou beach), at the Hilton Hotel, the GoldenHall and the Costa Navarino hotel complex.

4 TOP OPTIONS FOR A CITY EXIT 雅典市内四大必去餐厅

1. RATKA | 拉特卡餐厅

A historic place that has kept the look and style of a traditional French bistro. The quality remains constant and the service is perfect. 历史悠久的法式餐厅，依旧保留 了传统法式外观和风格，菜品一 贯优质，服务热情周到。 ZONARS 祖纳斯

Costas Kessaris

THE ATHENIAN JEWELER REVEALS HIS 4 TOP EATING EXPERIENCES

科斯塔斯·凯撒利斯，雅典

他是一位企业家、梦想家和绅士， 他曾学习经济学，梦想着从事外 交事业，最终在1969年创建了自 己的珠宝零售公司。1982年，凯撒 利斯大楼搬到了Panepistimiou 和Voukourestiou街交汇处的著 名角落，长期贯彻着“微笑服务，保持好心 情”的公司哲学理念。近些年珠宝公司获得 了惊人的增长，隐藏在这背后的是坚持信 念与构建诚信良好的客户关系，这些正是 珠宝行业成功企业家的必备素质。对于那 些目前尚未实现的计划他总是保持警惕， 而他生命中最大的快乐源于他的子孙。科 斯塔斯·凯撒利斯为自己是一个希腊人而 感到骄傲和自豪，他热爱自己的家园，感激 这片土地提供给他的一切。今天，凯撒利斯 珠宝公司在各地开设有分店，如雅典市中 心有两家，米科诺斯岛两家（位于Chora和 Psarou海滩） ，在希尔顿酒店、金色大厅购 物中心和科斯达加纳瓦里诺酒店度假村分 别设有一家珠宝店。

珠宝商向您介绍最爱的四大餐厅

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2. ZONARS | 祖纳斯

A place with a delicatessen cuisine for all hours of the day - whether it is breakfast, lunch or dinner. 全天候营业的咖啡餐吧，提供早 餐、午餐和晚宴。

3. OMBRA | 影子餐厅

It is so small, but still manages to perfectly serve its crowd by offering terrific pizza and taliata.

精致小巧的餐厅，凭借美味披萨和风味独 特的牛肉切片吸引了众多食客。

4. MILOS | 米洛斯

Housed in the Hilton Hotel, it is well known for its unparalleled quality to the fans of fish eating. 坐落于希尔顿酒店内，是众所周知的鱼类 和海鲜爱好者的第一选择。

MILOS 米洛斯

构成您旅行全程最后记忆的最美好的宾馆 欧洲历史首都心脏的永恒优雅之地 得缘一睹这闻名天下的希腊雅典地标性的大不列颠酒店，在此感受您生命中无可替代的美好时分， 至尊的住宿体验，放飞内心的自由感受。在大不列颠酒店享受雅典锦鳞闪烁的壮丽山海之景， 发现雅典这个充满活力城市的动人侧影。

MH.T.E.: 0206K015A0021500

请 浏 览 网 址 ： GRANDEBRETAGNE.GR

CARRÉ MANIA: WELCOME TO THE HERMES PARTY IN GREECE THAT WAS WRAPPED IN COLOURS AND SILK! Carré Mania：欢迎来到被斑斓色彩和柔软丝绸包裹 的希腊爱马仕派对！

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STYLE 造型

CARRÉ MANIA HAD SPREAD ITS AESTHETICS ALL OVER THE CITY.

Carré mania将美和艺术传播至城市的每一个角落。

The gateway of colours & silk HERMΕ`S CARRΕ - THE BEST OCCASION FOR A MAGICAL FAIRYTALE.

彩色丝绸王国 爱马仕Carré—

通往神奇的童话世界

B Y D E S P O I N A S A M P S O N • 撰 稿：黛 丝 平 娜 · 桑 普 森

CARRÉ MANIA: Welcome to the Hermès party in Greece that was wrapped in colours and silk! A magical night which travelled us to the new collections designs of the house. Hermès Carré’s favourite scarf became the gateway to a world filled with wonderful details: cocktails with a silky texture, stories based on traditional carpet motifs from Kyrgyzstan, flower corsages, flower filled skies... The guests – who were either posing for artists who had set up their easels, or dancing to DJ Emile Fouilloux’s selections – were living the fairytale. Carré mania had spread its aesthetics all over the city.

Carré Mania：欢迎来到被斑斓色彩和柔软丝绸包裹的希腊爱马仕 派对！这个神奇的夜晚将带领我们领略爱马仕最新设计。大名鼎鼎 的爱马仕方巾将向我们展示精彩绝伦的美妙世界：色彩绚烂的鸡 尾酒搭配柔软滑顺的质感，来自吉尔吉斯斯坦传统地毯图案，色彩 鲜艳的各式花卉，充满鲜花的天空......所有的来宾们，不论是艺术 家画布前准备待续的模特，还是跟随DJ艾米莉·福罗斯翩翩起舞的 贵宾，都如同生活在童话中一般。Carré mania将美和艺术传播至 城市的每一个角落。

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OBJECTS OF DESIRE 欲望所爱

Oyster Perpetual DayDate 18K yellow gold automatic watch with brilliant-cut diamonds, sapphire crystal and a green jade carousel, Rolex Hellas.

劳力士Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 18K黄金自动腕 表，密镶圆形切割钻石，采 用蓝宝石和绿玉轮盘，来 自劳力士希腊专卖店。

Time 时光飞逝 is flying BUT THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO ENJOY WHAT WE LOVE

但总有时间爱我们所爱

PHOTOS: FOTIS KARAPIPERIS, STYLING: MYRTO KRITSOTAKI

拍摄：福蒂斯·卡拉彼派利斯, 造型：米窦·克里查塔基

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Serpenti Spiga watches in black and white with rose gold, brilliant-cut diamonds and ceramic straps with rose gold details, Bulgari, Ora Kessaris.

宝格丽白色和黑色玫瑰 金腕表，镶嵌明亮式切割 钻石，采用以玫瑰金装 饰的陶瓷表带，来自宝格 丽，Ora Kessaris精品店。

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OBJECTS OF DESIRE 欲望所爱

From left: Stainless steel automatic watch with a sapphire crystal white dial set with diamonds and a black leather bracelet and stainless steel automatic watch with a sapphire crystal black dial set with diamonds, both Tudor Glamour Date, Rolex Hellas.

左起：不锈钢自动腕表，蓝宝石配 白色水晶表盘，外镶精致切割钻 石，黑色皮革表链；不锈钢自动腕 表，蓝宝石配黑色水晶表盘，外镶 精致切割钻石，来自帝舵Glamour Date系列，劳力士希腊专卖店。

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LOUIS VUITTON MASTERS 路易威登大师系列 A Collaboration with Jeff Koons - Chapter Two Louis Vuitton unveils the second collection of bags and accessories designed with the world-renowned contemporary artist, Jeff Koons. As with the first chapter of the Masters collection, Koons has also reconfigured the famous Louis Vuitton Monogram to bear his initials. Elements from this new Monogram have been crafted by Louis Vuitton in metal and placed on the exterior of the bag, as has Koons’ own signature. Each bag also carries a tag in the shape of the inflatable rabbit which has proved to be an enduring motif in his work throughout his 40-year career, while a biography and portrait of the Master whose work has been referenced is featured on the inside of the bag.

与杰夫·昆斯倾情合 作——第二章

路易威登发布了与世界著名当代艺术家杰夫· 昆斯第二次合作推出的最新箱包和配饰产品， 如同“大师系列”第一章一样，昆斯重新配置了 大名鼎鼎的路易威登标识并签注其签名。新款 Monogram由路易威登精心打造，标志性金属 标签置于包包外部，上有昆斯签名。同时，每只 包包都挂带一个充气小兔子形象，是其四十年 职业生涯的标志性永恒主题，箱包内侧标注有 相应作品的大师传记和肖像。

LOUIS VUITTON | Voukourestiou St 19, 10671 Athens | T +30 2103613938 | www.louisvuitton.com

SALT HILLS IN THE MESSOLONGHI SALT MINE Tabea: Tom Ford coat, Linea Piu. Kendall & Kylie boots, Kalogirou.

Ilias: Shirt, corduroy jacket, trousers and cashmere coat, Nikos Apostolopoulos. 迈索隆吉翁盐矿盐

女装：汤姆·福特外套，Linea Piu精品

店；Kendall＆Kylie长靴，Kalogirou精品店。男

装：衬衫，灯芯绒夹克，长裤和羊绒大衣，Nikos

Apostolopoulos精品店。

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Two Travellers

One Love Story 两位旅行者一场爱情故事 WOOL, SILK, FUR AND LACE ARE THE MATERIALS OF A LOVE STORY IN THE WINTER LANDSCAPES OF WESTERN GREECE. 羊毛，丝绸，皮草和蕾丝， 构成了希腊西部冬季浪漫爱情故事。

PHOTOGRAPHER: GEORGE KATSANAKIS (10AM) 摄影师：乔治·卡赞纳吉斯（10am）

FASHION EDITOR: MARILENA KARAGIANNI 时尚编辑：玛莉莲娜·卡拉吉安妮

MAKE UP & HAIR: HARA PAPANIKOLAOU (10AM) 化妆师兼发型师：赫拉·帕帕尼克拉奥（10am）

MODELS: TABEA (ACE MODELS), ΙLIAS AVANTIRAS (ΑCE MODELS) 模特：达裴阿（Ace models） ，埃利亚斯·阿万提斯（Ace models）

ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER: DIMITRIS KATSANAKIS 助理摄影师：迪米里亚斯·卡赞纳吉斯

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SALT HILLS IN THE MESSOLONGHI SALT MINE Woolen suit Vassilis Emmanuel Zoulias. Kendall & Kylie boots, Kalogirou. Sunglasses, GB Corner Gifts & Flavors. 迈索隆吉翁盐矿盐

羊毛西装，Vassilis Emmanuel Zoulias精 品店；Kendall＆Kylie长靴，Kalogirou精

品店；太阳镜，大不列颠酒店精品店。

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Turtleneck and trousers Nikos Apostolopoulos. 高领衣和裤子，Nikos

Apostolopoulos精品店。

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RELAXING AT THE MARRPESSA HOTEL Tabea: Valentino silk shirt, woolen embroidered blouse and silk pleated skirt, from Luisa World. Rachel Zoe sandals, Kalogirou.

Ilias: Hackett shirt, trousers and jacket, Ted Baker tie from Attica Golden Hall.

Cesare Paciotti shoes, Kalogirou.

女装：华伦天奴丝绸衬衫，羊毛绣花 衬衫和丝绸百褶裙，来自路易莎世

界；Rachel Zoe凉鞋，Kalogirou精 品店。男装：Hackett衬衫，裤子和

夹克，Ted Baker领带，来自阿提卡 金色购物中心；Calogare Paciotti 鞋，Kalogirou精品店。

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Turtleneck and trousers Nikos Apostolopoulos. 高领衣和裤子，Nikos

Apostolopoulos精品店。

WHEN NIGHT COMES AT THE MARPESSA HOTEL Lace top, Eres. Ring i-D Concept Stores. 蕾丝上衣，Eres精品店；戒

指，i-D概念店。

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Tabea: Silk print dress, bracelet and pendant Louis Vuitton. Globe-Trotter suitcase, GB Corner Gifts & Flavors. Ilias: Turtleneck and trousers Nikos Apostolopoulos.

女装：丝绸印花连衣裙，路易威登手链和吊坠；Globe-Trotter手提箱，来自大不列颠酒店精品店。男装： 高领衣和裤子，Nikos Apostolopoulos精品店。

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Shirt, jacket, trousers and woolen coat Nikos Apostolopoulos.

衬衫，上衣，长裤和羊毛外套，Nikos

Apostolopoulos精品店。

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IN FRONT OF THE WELCOMING RECEPTION OF THE MARPESSA HOTEL Striped top T Alexander Wang and tweed Burberry coat, from Attica. Bottega Veneta woolen skirt, Maison Michel hat, from Luisa World. Casadei booties, Kalogirou.

Alexander Wang条纹上衣，

博柏利粗花呢大衣，来自阿提

卡购物中心；Bottega Veneta

羊毛裙，Maison Michel帽子， 来自路易莎世界；Casadei短 靴，Kalogirou精品店。

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Tabea: Trussardi Jeans fur coat, Notos. Maison Scotch hat, Attica. Ilias: Ted Baker trousers, Hamaki Ho sweater, Monsieur Scotch jacket from Collective. Etro scarf, Luisa World. 女装：Trussardi牛仔皮毛大

衣，Notos购物中心；Maison

Scotch帽子，阿提卡购物中心。男 装：Ted Baker长裤，Hamaki Ho

毛衣，Monsieur Scotch夹克，来自 Collective精品店；Etro围巾，来自 路易莎世界。

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Coat, blouse, skirt Sportmax and Max Mara cap- from Max Mara. Kendall & Kylie booties, Kalogirou. 大衣，衬衫，Sportmax裙子和Max Mara帽子，来自Max Mara；Kendall＆Kylie短靴，来自Kalogirou精品店。

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Silk print dress and leather boots, Hermès.

丝绸印花连衣裙和皮靴，来自爱马仕。 We would kindly like to thank Elena Mantziou - Kotrolou who was a valuable guide during the shoot of the Elegant Travel fashion team in Messolonghi and the Marpessa Hotel for the accommodation. (http://www.marpessa.gr)

我们对艾琳娜·曼吉奥·高涂鲁表示衷心 的感谢，她为《优雅旅行》时尚团队迈索 隆吉翁之行提供了有价值的向导服务， 同时感谢Marpessa酒店倾情提供住宿 服务。 （http://www.marpessa.gr）

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map brand finder 品牌搜索地图

1. ANAMNESIA 99 Adrianou Street, Plaka, Athens, Tel.: 2146870704, www.anamnesia.gr 2. ATTICA City Link: 9 Panepistimiou, Syntagma Square, Tel.: 2111802600 Golden Hall: 37A Kifissias Avenue, Maroussi, Tel.: 2111814000, www.atticadps.gr 3. BROOKS BROTHERS Brooks Brothers Boutique: 4 Stadiou Street & Amerikis Street, City Link, Athens, Tel.: 2103225970 Attica Department Store: 9 Panepistimiou Street, Athens, Tel.: 2111802880, 2111802720, +2111802902 www.brooksbrothers.com.gr 4. COLLECTIVE 14 Patriarchou Ioakeim, Kolonaki, Athens,Tel.: 2107235551, www.collectiveonline.com/gr-el

14. KALOGIROU CityLink, 4 Stadiou Street, Athens, 4 Patriarchou Ioakeim, Kolonaki, Athens, Τel.: 2103356401, Kalogirou.com 15. KESSARIS 7 Panepistimiou Avenue, Athens, Tel.: 2103711000, www.kessaris.gr 16. LALAOUNIS 6 Panepistimiou Avenue & Voukourestiou Street, Athens, Tel.:2103624354 www.lalaounis.com 17. LOUIS VUITTON 19 Voukourestiou Street, Athens, Tel.: 2103613938 Tel.: 2103613938 www.louisvuitton.com 18. LUISA WORLD 15 Skoufa Street, Tel.: 2103635600, www.luisaworld.com

5. DANELIAN DIAMOND CLUB 10 Nikis Street, 4th Floor, Athens Tel.: 2103221816, www. diamondclub.gr

19. NIKOS APOSTOLOPOULOS BOUTIQUE 19 Skoufa Street & Iraklitou Street, Tel.: 2103392706, www.nikosapostolopoulos.gr

6. ERES 6 Voukourestiou Street, Tel.: 2103211103, www.eresparis.com

20. NOTOS Stadiou & Aiolou Street, Αthens, Tel.: 2103245811, www.notos.gr

7. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA BOUTIQUE 24 Voukourestiou Street, Tel.:2103643930, www.zegna.com

21. ΟRA KESSARIS 8A Voukourestiou Street, Athens, Tel.:2103711020 www.kessaris.gr

8. FANOURAKIS 23 Patriarhou Ioakim Street, Tel.: 2107211762, 2107214068, www.fanourakis.gr

22. ROBERTO COIN Patseas: 1 Dionisiou Areopagitou Street, Tel.: 2109239685 & 5 Stadiou Street, Tel.: 2103230722

9. FOLLI FOLLIE 18 Ermou Street, Tel.: 210 3230729, www.follifollie.com

23. ROLEX 5 Valaoritou Street, Tel.: 2103621138 1 Kolokotroni Square, Tel.: 2103235909, www.rolex.com

10. GB CORNER GIFTS & FLAVORS Hotel Grande Bretagne: Constitution Square (Syntagma), Tel.: 2103330750 www.grandebretagnestore.com

24. SEPHORA 24 Ermou Street , Athens, Tel.: 2103313167 2 Milioni Street, Kolonaki, Athens, Tel.: 2103613051, www.sephora.gr

11. HERMÉS 4 Stadiou Street & 1 Voukourestiou Street, City Link, Syntagma Square, Tel. 2103233715 www.hermes.com

25. THEMIS Z Attica Department Store: 9 Panepistimiou Street, Athens, Ileana Makri Store: 13-15 Patriarchou Ioakeim, Athens, Tel.: 2107217982, Soho-Soho Boutique, 21 Voukourestiou Street, Athens, Tel: 2103646940 themisz.com

12. HONDOS CENTER 4 Omonoia Square, Tel.: 2105882800 39 Ermou Street, Tel.: 2103722900 4 Omirou Street, Tel.: 2103255466 6 Merlin Street, Kolonaki, Tel.: 2103386000 www.hondoscenter.com 13. I-D CONCEPT STORES 12 Con. Κanari Street & 8 Sekeri Street., Kolonaki, Tel. 2103221801, www.idconceptstores.com

26. TUDOR 5 Valaoritou Street, Tel.: 2103621138 1 Kolokotroni Square, Tel. 2103235909, www.tudorwatch.com ..............................

GOLDEN HALL 37A Kifissias Avenue , Maroussi, Tel.: 2106803450, www.goldenhall.gr

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ONE OF THE MOST RECOGNIZABLE SCULPTURES OF GEORGE ZONGOLOPOULOS, THE UMBRELLAS. CENTRALLY LOCATED ALONG NEA PARALIA.

雕塑家乔治·仲格罗普 洛斯最具标志性作品—— 《伞》 ，位于新海滩。 OPPOSITE PAGE: MALLAH BUILDING, 1924, ARCHITECT JEAN JOSEPH PLEYBER IN COLLABORATION WITH HASSIDFERNANDEZ -ERMOU & VENIZELOU STR.

对页 :曼拉合大 厦，1924年，简·约 瑟夫·普雷博建筑 师与Hassid-Fernandez合作，位于 Ermou＆Venizelou 街

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10 charming faces of

Thessaloniki 塞萨洛尼基的10副迷人面孔

GORGEOUS, FRIENDLY AND FULL OF HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS, THE “BRIDE OF THERMAIKOS” IS SIMPLY IRRESISTIBLE. 明艳动人、热情友好、充满历史 文化的深邃吸引力， “塞萨洛尼 基新娘”魅不可挡

BY GIORGOS PANAGIOTAKIS • 撰 稿：季 奥 吉 斯 · 帕 纳吉奥塔吉斯

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TSINARIANO POLI

or in other words “cool” or “take it easy”. This favourite expression of the Thessalonians, is an idiom which reflects the stress-free and easygoing character of the city. A city where restaurants and cafes are full, where people enjoy strolling by the beach and where night outings often last until the morning hours. However, do not be fooled by this image, because at the same time, Thessaloniki has a unique vitality and dynamism. A city that knows how to unite different cultures, wrapping them in its aura and creating new visions and narratives. After all, it is a city with a great history and many different faces, all alluring.

But before we start discovering them, let’s have a coffee and do not forget: Halara!

A LOVE AFFAIR WITH COFFEE 与咖啡相恋

Thessaloniki is a European city with the most cafes per capita. The National Geographic magazine recently included it in the world’s ten cities with the most adventurous nightlife.

(Top 10 Nightlife cities). The famous areas for coffee and nightlife are Valaoritou Street, the squares of Navarinou and Aristotelous, the Ladadika and Paralia.

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塞萨洛尼基是欧洲城市中拥有人 均咖啡馆数量最多的城市。国家地 理杂志最近将其列入世界十大拥 有最具冒险精神夜生活的城市（十 大夜生活都市） 。著名的咖啡和夜市 聚集地包括瓦拉维奥大街、纳瓦里 努广场、斯利亚特广场、拉迪卡和 帕利亚。

Photo Tsinari: Via Flickr, Courtesy of the city of Thessaloniki

Halara,

“哈拉拉” ，亦可译为“很酷”或“放轻松” ， 作为塞萨洛尼基人最爱的口头禅，它反映 了这座城市独有的轻松与随性。在这里，餐 馆和咖啡馆总是高朋满座，海边充满了散 步的人群，丰富多彩的夜生活也通常持续 到凌晨。然而，千万不要被这惬意慵懒的表 象所迷惑，因为塞萨洛尼基的动感与活力 也同样是独一无二的。这座城市懂得如何 去融合不同的文化，在继承其过往历史光 环的同时，创造着新的愿景和篇章。毕竟， 她拥有太过波澜壮阔的悠久历史并呈现出 缤彩纷呈的多副面孔。在开启探索之旅前， 让我们先来杯咖啡，别忘了那句：哈拉拉！

A N C I E N T T H ES SA LO N I K I

Still alive in the heart of the city 古代塞萨洛尼基， 依然活在城市中心

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这座城市得名于一个爱情故事，公元前315 年，马其顿国王卡山德在隐秘的塞尔迈海 湾统一了26个部落并在此基础上建成了塞 萨洛尼基城，卡山德骄傲地以其爱妻（同时 是亚历山大大帝同父异母的妹妹）之名为 这座新城命名。塞萨洛尼基在罗马时代获 得了更大的声望，罗马安哥拉考古遗址反 映了这个时期的辉煌与鼎盛，遗址内包含 了完整的音乐学院、浴室、大型画廊和精致 典雅的石柱廊等，生动反应了彼时塞萨洛 尼基人生活全貌。同时，遗址中还坐落着一 个精致的博物馆，展示更多文物信息。 （地 址：Philipou and Makedonikis Aminis；电 话： +30 2310221266； 周二至周末开放时 间：8 am-3pm） 古代安哥拉连接着Egnatia，这是条起自罗马城并覆盖整个帝国领土的古代“高速公路” ， 今天的同名大道只是当年古道的一部分。与Gounari大街交界处便是现代塞萨洛尼基城 市中心地带，这里高耸着威武壮观的Galerius凯旋门，如今又被称作Kamara，建于公元前 305年，用以纪念罗马对波斯战争的决定性胜利，凯旋门上以细致精美的浮雕描述众多历 史事件。今天的塞萨洛尼基人依然选择在凯旋门下见面邀约。

The city owes its name to a love affair; more specifically in 315 BC, the king of Macedonia Kassandros unites 26 settlements at the inmost Thermaic Gulf coast. He names this mighty new city after his beloved wife - also the half-sister of Alexander the Great.

Thessaloniki gains even more prestige in Roman times. The impressive archaeological site of the Roman Agora with the conservatory, the baths, large galleries and elegant colonnades is the living proof. There is also a small, but informative museum on the site. (Philipou and Makedonikis Aminis, +30 2310221266, Tuesday-Sunday 8 am-3pm).

The Agora was connected to the Egnatia, the “highway” of antiquity that started from Rome and reached to the limits of the empire. Today’s avenue of the same name is a part of the ancient road. At the junction with Gounari Street, at the heart of the modern city, stand the remnants of the triumphal Arch of Galerius, or “Kamara” as it is now called. It was built in 305 BC, after the Romans’ decisive victory over the Persians, and it is covered with relief plaques which depict the historical events. Modern-day Thessalonians usually make their appointments under its shadow.

EXHIBITS OF UNIQUE VALUE

Courtesy of the city of Thessaloniki, Courtesy of The Archaeological Museum

无价之宝展品

The Archaeological Museum (6 Manoli Andronikou, amth.gr, +30 231 331 0201 8am-8pm daily, €8), exhibits findings from the Neolithic Age to late antiquity. You will also see gold jewellery, burial sarcophagi and architectural segments from the Royal Macedonian Tombs of Vergina. The archaeological site of Vergina is 80km southwest of Thessaloniki. 考古博物馆（地址：Manoli Andronikou 6号；网址：amth.gr；电 话：+30 231 331 0201；开放时间：每 日8am-8pm；门票：8欧元） ，展品跨 度自新石器时代至近古时代。您也将 有机会近距离欣赏黄金珠宝、石棺以 及皇家马其顿维吉娜墓地建筑造型。 维吉娜考古遗址位于塞萨洛尼基西南 80公里处。

GOLDEN WREATH OF OAK LEAVES 橡树叶金色花环

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Mysticism and sacred art

拜占庭式塞萨洛尼基，神秘的宗教艺术

Very close to the Arch of Galerius, we find the Rotunda, the circular building which reflects almost the entire history of Thessaloniki. It was built in 305 AD, probably as a temple for Zeus, but was later converted into a mausoleum, a Christian church and a Muslim mosque. Architecturally, it is an exact copy of the Pantheon in Rome, with an interior adorned with fine mosaics. (Agiou Georgiou Square, Tuesday-Friday: 8am-5pm, SaturdaySunday: 8am-3pm, €2) These mosaics date back to the Byzantine era. During that time, Thessaloniki was the empire’s “co-reigning” city, the second administrative centre after Constantinople. The Hellenistic and Roman fortifications were perfected and grand public buildings and churches were built. The Byzantine walls that started from the ancient Acropolis (today’s Eptapyrgio in Ano Poli) and reached up to the sea, are still visible in the urban fabric. One of the oldest Byzantine monuments built in the 5th century is the church of Acheropoietos (56 Aghias Sofias).

The square of Aghia Sofia, by two centuries more recent, has mosaics and frescoes of unique beauty, while Panagia Chalkeon from the 11th century is distinguished by its characteristic red hue masonry.

AGIA SOFIA, (HOLY WISDOM) 圣索菲亚

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MUSEUM OF BYZANTINE CULTURE 拜占庭文化博物馆

在 加 拉 里 乌 斯 拱 门 附 近 我 们 找 到 了 Ro tunda，这座圆形建筑见证了塞萨洛尼基 的整个发展历史。它建于公元305年，起初 作为天神宙斯的神庙，后几经改建，曾作 为陵墓、基督教教堂以及穆斯林清真寺。从 建筑学上来说，它是罗马万神殿的复制品， 内部装饰着精美华丽的莫塞克镶嵌艺术。 （地址：Agiou Georgiou 广场； 周二至周五: 8am-5pm；周末: 8am-3pm；门票：2欧元） 这些镶嵌艺术可追溯至拜占庭时代。在此 期间，塞萨洛尼基作为拜占庭帝国“联合统 治”城市，是继君士坦丁堡之后的第二个行 政中心。彼时希腊和罗马的防御工事达 到了几乎完美的地步，气势恢宏的各大 公共建筑和教堂也修建完毕。拜占庭城 墙始于古代卫城（今天诺波利地区的欧 帕拉吉奥） ，直达大海，其遗迹在今天的 塞萨洛尼基城依然清晰可见。公元5世 纪时期建造的最古老的拜占庭建筑之 一便是阿契拉教堂（位于Aghias Sofias 街56号） 。此外，建于近两个世纪的圣索 菲亚大广场也使用了独特的镶嵌艺术 和精美壁画，相比之下， 11世纪的拜占 庭Panagia Chalkeon教堂就更有特色 了，采用了独特的红色砖石。

ASPECTS OF THE MIDDLE AGES 中世纪影像

In the halls of the Museum of Byzantine Culture (2 Stratou Avenue, mbp.gr, +30 231 330 6400, in winter 9am-4pm daily, €4), the life of medieval Thessaloniki is very informatively presented. Exhibited here are works of art, household items, authentic garments and jewellery, such as the magnificent gold bracelets with enamel decorations from the 10th century.

拜占庭文化博物馆（地址：2 Stratou Avenue；电话：+30 231 330 6400；冬季每日开放时间：9am – 4pm；门票：4欧元）大厅之中， 中世纪塞萨洛尼基的生活面貌 被丰富地展现出来。展品包括 各种艺术品、家居用品、古代服 饰和珠宝等，包括10世纪由珐 琅装饰的华丽黄金手镯。

Courtesy of the city of Thessaloniki, Shutterstock, Courtesy of the Museum of Byzantine Culture

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BYZ A N T I N E T H ES SA LO N I K I

OT T O M A N T H ES SA LO N I K I

Baths, towers and mosques

Shutterstock, Courtesy of the city of Thessaloniki, Via Facebook

塞萨洛尼基的土耳其元素： 浴室、古塔和清真寺

Throughout the centuries the city has endured raids, bloody revolts and periods of decline. Eventually, in 1430, Thessaloniki was incorporated into the Ottoman Empire.

The new rulers improved the fortifications and build mosques, charitable foundations and baths. Many of these monuments are still in excellent condition. Among them are the Hamza Bey mosque, also known as Alkazar (Egnatia and Venizelou), the Alaca Imaret poorhouse (91 Kassandrou) and the Bey Hamam baths (Egnatia and Aristotelous), all of them 15th century buildings.

The most famous Ottoman monument of course is Lefkos Pyrgos (the White Tower), a landmark of the whole of Thessaloniki. It was built in the early 16th century and for a long time used as a prison. Today, it functions as the city’s historical museum. With the aid of technology, a different chapter unfolds on each floor, whereas the top sixth floor is dedicated to gastronomy. The view from the top includes the mostly snowy peaks of Mount Olympus.

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几个世纪以来这座城市遭受了侵袭、叛乱 和衰落。终于，在1430年塞萨洛尼基被并 入奥斯曼土耳其帝国。新的统治者改善了 防御工事，修建了众多清真寺、慈善基金 会和土耳其浴室。今天诸多遗迹仍然被完 好保存，其中包括著名的Hamza Bey清 真寺，也被称作赫拉克勒斯（位于Egnatia and Venizelou） ；Alaca Imaret救济院（ 位于Kassandrou街 91号） ；以及贝姆汉 姆浴室（位于Egnatia and Venizelou） ， 这些都是典型的15世纪建筑。 最著名的奥斯曼土耳其遗址当属Lefkos Pyrgos（白塔） ，这是塞萨洛尼基的地标性 建筑。建于16世纪早期，长期以来被用作监 狱。今天它成为了这座城市的历史博物馆。 通过技术支持，塔内每一层都别有洞天，各 个主题被缓缓呈现，值得一提的是顶楼六 层被设置成了美食区域，从这里可以眺望 奥林匹斯山山顶的皑皑白雪。 （电话：+30 231 026 7832；开放时间：每日8 am-4pm； 门票：4欧元）

A MEAL IN A HISTORIC HAMAM 在历史悠久的土耳其浴室遗址中尽享美食

The Geni Hamam, (16th century) operated up until 1912. It was then turned into a cinema hall and today it operates as a restaurant. (Aigli Restaurant - 3 Agiou Nikolaou, +30 231 305 9024).

耶律土耳其浴室自16世纪起开始营业 直至1912年，后来被改作电影院，今天 作为餐厅运营。 （艾格丽饭店，地址：3 Agiou Nikolaou；电话: +30 231 305 9024）

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OLD MANSIONS AND SYNAGOGUES 古宅和犹太教堂

YAHUDI HAMMAM, THE JEWISH BATH 犹太浴室

From prosperity to the Holocaust

塞萨洛尼基的犹太元素：从繁荣到大屠杀

The first small Jewish community was created immediately after the foundation of Thessaloniki (3rd century BC). The great change occurs at the end of the 15th century, when thousands of Sephardic Jews arrived after been expelled from Spain. They bring along their customs, their traditional food and their language - the Judaeo-Spanish, or Ladino. Their culture and industriousness breathes new life to the city of Thessaloniki, which acquired the sobriquet “Jerusalem of the Balkans”. During the 19 th century, almost half of the city’s population is Jewish. The life of the community however, will be violently interrupted in the years of the German Οccupation. In March 1943, the Nazis transport the entire Jewish population to the concentration camps, from which only a few return; a wound that will never heal.

MEMORIES FROM THE “JERUSALEM OF THE BALKANS” 来自“巴尔干的耶路撒冷”的记忆

The building of the Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki is located in an old Jewish merchant gallery. It is one of the city’s buildings that survived the fire of 1917. Rare objects and archives are exhibited, as well as shocking evidence of the Holocaust. (11 Agiou Mina; +30 2310 250406; jmth.gr)

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塞萨洛尼基犹太博物馆坐落在一座 古老的犹太商人画廊里，它是1917 年大火中幸存下来的城市建筑之 一。展出大量珍贵文物和档案，以及 令人震惊的大屠杀证据。 （地址：11 Agiou Mina；电话： +30 2310 250406）

自塞萨洛尼基建成之日（公元前3世纪）起， 第一个小型犹太社区就在此存在了。这种 状况一直持续到15世纪末，彼时成千上万 的塞法迪犹太人被驱逐出西班牙后来到此 地，给这座城市带来了翻天覆地的变化。新 移民带来了他们的习俗、传统食物和他们 的语言——犹太-西班牙语和拉蒂诺语（一 种在西班牙流行的犹太人方言） 。他们独 特的文化与勤奋努力的传统为塞萨洛尼基 带来了新的活力与朝气，一度为塞萨洛尼 基赢得了“巴尔干的耶路撒冷”的美誉，至 19世纪，犹太人几乎占据了这座城市的一 半人口。然而，这个民族在此平静祥和的生 活在德国占领希腊期间被野蛮粗暴地打 断。1943年3月，纳粹将整个犹太族驱赶到 集中营进行残酷的迫害和折磨，最终只有 极少数人生还，这段历史成为了永远无法 愈合的伤痛。 JEWISH MUSEUM OF THESSALONIKI 塞萨洛尼基犹太博物馆

Anastasios Skikos, Stavros Niarchos Foundation Centre for Hellenic Studies - New Media Lab

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J EW I S H T H ES SA LO N I K I

R EC O N ST R UC T I N G T H ES SA LO N I K I

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Between the old and the new 重建塞萨洛尼基，新旧之间

The first decade of the 20th century was proved decisive. In October 1912, the Greek army liberated the city. Soon later, as the First World War was raging, Andante troops gather together along with spies and adventurers. On 18 August 1917, the fire that started in Ano Poli spread rapidly incinerating 10,000 houses and left 70,000 people homeless. The problem inflated with the arrival of thousands of Greek refugees from the Black Sea and Asia Minor.

Certain building that are still intact today give us a clear picture of Thessaloniki of the past. For instance, the Salem Mansion (20 Vas. Olgas), a typical example of 19th century baroque revival-eclecticism. On the same road (68 Vas. Olgas), is the Modiano Mansion (beginning of the 20th century), which today houses the Folklore Museum of Thessaloniki. The art nouveau style Casa Bianca (3 Th. Sofouli) of the same period, houses the Municipal Art Gallery with works by the great Greek painter Nikolaos Gyzis (1842-1901). The likewise art nouveau Villa Mehmet Kapandji built in 1900, had the regrettable privilege of housing the Gestapo during the German occupation.

The elegant Geni Mosque (Archaiologikou Mouseiou 30), was built in 1902 in the style of eclecticism, and used as a mosque for the Islamized Jews (Dönmeh).

THAT WAS BORN OF A FIRE

Shutterstock, Courtesy of the city of Thessaloniki, Anastasios Skikos, Stavros Niarchos Foundation Centre for Hellenic Studies - New Media Lab

亚里士多德广场， 一场大火催生的广场

20世纪的第一个十年被证明是决定性 的。1912年10月，希腊军队解放了这座城 市。此后不久，第一次世界大战接踵而至， 安达特军队联合了各国间谍及冒险家们 给这座城市带来了灾难。1917年8月18日， 一场大火在诺波利蔓延开来，火势迅猛， 在极短的时间烧毁了10,000座房屋，导致 70,000人无家可归。随后成千上万来自黑 海和小亚细亚的希腊难民的涌入更是让这 座城市雪上加霜。 在今天的塞萨洛尼基城，那些被完好保存 下来的建筑群静静地述说着过去的历史。 例如萨勒姆大厦（Vas. Olgas 街20号）便是 体现19世纪巴洛克复兴折衷主义风格的典型例子。在同一条大街（Vas. Olgas街 68号）上， 坐落着莫迪亚诺大厦（建于20世纪） ，便是如今的塞萨洛尼基民俗博物馆。新艺术流派典型 代表的卡萨比安卡大楼（Th. Sofouli 街3号）也出现在同一时期，目前为市政艺术画廊，这 里展示着伟大的希腊画家Nikolaos Gyzis（1842-1901）的诸多作品。同样风格的新艺术别 墅Mehmet Kapandji于1900年建造，在德国占领期间被盖世太保作为营地。古典优雅的耶 律清真寺（Archaiologikou Mouseiou 街30号）建于1902年，采用了折衷主义风格，当时作 为伊斯兰教犹太人的清真寺（Dönmeh） 。

After the fire, the city’s reconstruction was undertaken by the famous French architect and urban planner, Ernest Hebrard. His vision was realised only fragmentarily. However, it is evident with relative accuracy in the square of Aristotelous. The semi-circular buildings, the blend of Venetian, Byzantine and Arabic elements and the uncluttered opening to the sea, create an architectural ensemble which exudes elegance, robustness and beauty. 大火之后，这座城市的重建工作由法 国著名建筑师和城市规划师Ernest Hebrard承担进行。他的愿景并未完 全实现，但不可否认的是，在亚里士多 德广场，他创造出了完美的精确性。众 多半圆形的建筑融合了威尼斯、拜占 庭和阿拉伯元素，整整齐齐地面向大 海，营造出一种优雅、坚挺且优美的建 筑风格。

TIMELESS LEGACY 永恒的遗产

CASA BIANCA WAS BUILT IN 1911 FOR ENTREPRENEUR DINO FERNANDEZ-DIAZ 卡萨比安卡大楼建于1911年，为企业家迪诺·费尔南德 斯·迪亚兹而建

TSINARI

塞萨洛尼基风味

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塞萨洛尼基人非常热爱美食，他们从不会 拒绝外出就餐。毫无疑问，塞萨洛尼基被认 为是希腊的“美味之王” 。来自小亚细亚君 士坦丁堡和希腊北部的精美菜肴都在这里 随处可见，也有不少现代独特民族风味的 美味供您选择。美食地图上不可错过的关 键点有阿纳奥斯广场、纳瓦里诺广场，当然 还有Ladadika地区，这里古老的石油仓库 和风格独特的新古典主义建筑被改造成了 众多餐厅。沿着Kastra上行，一定要在风景 如画的Tsinari社区稍作停留，这里充盈着 古塞萨洛尼基特有的芬芳和气息。您也可 以选择在诺波利的老城墙旁用餐，享用美 食的同时欣赏壮阔迷人的景色。 塞萨洛尼基的美味同样延伸到了街头小 吃。来自希腊北部的koulouri（一种带有芝麻的面包圈）和bougatsa（奶酪奶油馅饼）深受 当地人和游客的热烈追捧。另外一种味觉大诱惑是热气腾腾的各种烤肉类，苏乌拉肉饼、 旋转烤肉和土耳其烤肉等。甜品中最受人喜爱的是美味三角塔，酥脆的外皮下包裹着浓郁 的美味甜奶油。

The locals love good food and never say no to an outing. Not by accident, Thessaloniki is regarded as the Greek “queen of taste”. The exquisite dishes from Constantinople in Asia Minor and Northern Greece can be found everywhere, as well as contemporary or ethnic cuisine. Key points on the gastronomic map are the Athonos Square, the Navarino Square, and of course, the Ladadika (both upper and lower), where the old oil merchant warehouses and stylish neoclassical houses have been converted into restaurants. Ascending towards Kastra is a definite must-stop in Tsinari, a picturesque neighborhood with the aroma and flavour of old Thessaloniki. In Ano Poli one can dine next to the old walls, and enjoy the enchanting view.

The ‘reign’ of Thessaloniki also extends to street food. The characteristic koulouri (a bread ring with sesame) and bougatsa (pastry filled with cheese or cream) from the North of Greece are passionately adored by locals and visitors. Another different chapter in taste is the souvlaki, doner and the kebab (various grilled meats). Desserts such as the triangular shaped trigona Panoramatos are also loved, with a crispy phyllo filled with a tasty sweet cream.

KOULOURI WITH SESAME BOUGATSA, TRADITIONAL PASTRY

奶酪奶油馅饼，传统甜点

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ELEGANT TRAVEL

芝麻面包圈

ΟLD OIL MERCHANT WAREHOUSES 旧石油仓库

Via Flickr, paradosiako.net, Anastasios Skikos, Stavros Niarchos Foundation Centre for Hellenic Studies New Media Lab, Courtesy of the city of Thessaloniki

Flavours of T H ES SA LO N I K I

CHOICE SELECTIONS FOR FOOD AND DESSERT 美食和甜点推介 O Phanos tis Polis: Traditional flavours from Asia Minor, but also contemporary cuisine with excellent ingredients. Try the spicy soutzoukakia (meatballs in tomato sauce), the Hunkar begedi (veal with mashed aubergine) and shrimp and crab meatballs. (8 Agiou Mina; +30 231 304 5543) Vereniki: Minimal aesthetic, industrial decoration and delicious contemporary selections based on traditional recipes. Try the risotto with pumpkin and bacon, the bougiourdi (roasted cheese with tomatoes, peppers and spices) and burgers in a red sauce. (Bit Bazaar Square, +30 231 401 0214) Feta Bar: A modern creamery-restaurant where one can find high-quality cheese and dairy products, but also sample various pies on the spot, omelettes, many kinds of yoghurt and imaginative traditional dishes. (14 Pavlou Mela; +30 231 022 1120) STOU MITSOU

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Stou Mitsou: Tiny, but miraculous! A popular folk ouzeri with delicious appetizers (sausages, giblets with sweet potatoes, prawns with hilopites pasta and others), good raki and live rembetikο music. (11 Vlali; +30 2315515504) Tsinari: A historical cafe and ouzeri in the homonymous neighbourhood. It is located next to the old Ottoman fountain, in operation since 1885. Flavours from the East. (7 Al. Papadopoulou, +30 231 028 4028) Hatzis: A renowned pastry shop since 1908. Intoxicating aromas, rich flavors, delicious syrup desserts (saragli, baklava, finiki and more) and creams from Asia Minor (asoure, malebi with mastic, rizogalo etc.). It can be found in three parts of the city. (50 Venizelou Str - 24, Mitropoleos Str - 73, Th. Sofouli) Elenidis: Many boast of having the best trigona in the city. After all, Elenidis is the confectionery that first made them in the 1960s. Found in three locations (6 G. Papandreou - 15 Th. Sofouli, - 12 Venizelou) Jiang Nan: The restaurant that is preferred by the city’s small Chinese community, and not only. Excellent Chinese and Asian cuisine with some European touches, handmade JIANG NAN noodles, simple décor and friendly staff. (10 Vas. Olgas: +30 231 084 6808)

HATZIS

O Phanos tis Polis: 来自小亚细亚的传统 美味，采用新鲜优质 食材，结合现代烹饪 技巧。必点菜肴为辣 soutzoukakia（红酱汁 肉丸） 、Hunkar begedi （茄汁小牛肉）和虾蟹 肉球。 （地址：8 Agiou Mina；电话：+30 231 304 5543） Vereniki：以希腊传统食 谱为基础，融合了美学、 工业装饰和当代美味 哲学。一定要尝试南瓜 培根意大利调味饭、布 吉乌迪（用西红柿、青椒 VERENIKI 和各味香料烹制的烤奶 酪）以及红酱汉堡。 （地 址：Bit Bazaar 广场；电话：+30 231 401 0214） Feta酒吧：这是一家极具现代化的酒吧餐厅，提 供高质量奶酪和乳制品，可在现场品尝各种馅 饼、煎蛋卷、各式酸奶和富有想象力的传统希腊 佳肴。 （地址：14 Pavlou Mela；电话：+30 231 022 1120） Stou Mitsou: 小巧却充满魔力！各色精致开胃小 菜（香肠、红薯拌杂碎、虾仁拌意大利面等）搭配 清冽爽口的拉克烈酒，现场还有雷贝蒂克音乐表 演助兴。 （地址：11 Vlali；电话：30 2315515504） Tsinari: 这座历史悠久的餐厅咖啡馆坐落 于同名小区中，毗邻古老的奥斯曼喷泉，从 1885年开始经营，主打东方风味。 （地址：7 Al. Papadopoulou；电话：+30 231 028 4028） Hatzis: 这是一家始于1908年的著名糕点店。店 内充溢着令人陶醉的芳香，丰富而有层次的味觉 体验，美味可口的糖浆甜点（沙拉丽酥卷、果仁蜜 饼、菲尼基糕点等等） ，还有来自小亚细亚的各种 奶酪（asoure甜点、乳香烈酒、米饭布丁等） 。目 前在不同地区有3家分店。 （地址：50 Venizelou Str – 24；Mitropoleos Str – 73；Th. Sofouli） Elenidis: 这里拥有塞萨洛尼基最美味的三 角塔。毕竟，Elenidis糕点店在上世纪60年代 首次制作出了美味 的三角塔甜点，共有 三家分店。 （地址：6 G. Papandreou；15 Th. Sofouli；12 Venizelou） 江南：这家位于华人区 的中餐厅不仅深受华 人喜爱，也吸引了众多 当地食客。提供优质上 乘的中式菜肴和亚洲料 理，同时结合欧洲风味， 纯手工制作面条。餐厅 装潢简洁大方，员工服 务细致周到。 （地址：10 Vas. Olgas；电话：+30 231 084 6808）

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A walk on the coastal front

海边的塞萨洛尼基，海滨漫步

It is the most photographed spot of the city, an ideal route for jogging or cycling, as well as long romantic strolls with the magnificent sunset as a background. The coastal front begins at the harbour’s industrial landscape, where the old docks have been converted into art galleries and museums, such as the Cinema Museum and the Museum of Photography.

The promenade continues along the coast of Thermaikos for several kilometres. The busiest spot is around Lefkos Pyrgos. Very close by, are the “Umbrellas” the emblematic work of sculptor George Zongolopoulos (1903-2004). There are also 12 themed parks for relaxing and sports, as well as tracks for skateboarding. Heading towards the end of the promenade, we find the dominating Thessaloniki Concert Hall. It extends over two buildings, one of which is designed by the Japanese architect Arata Isozaki and is characterized by its imposing simplicity.

BICYCLES AND PIRATE SHIPS 自行车和海盗船 为了尽情享受海滨漫步，建议您租一 辆自行车，在沿海自行车专用道上 骑行。除了普通自行车外，还有双人 和家庭自行车（详见thessbike.gr 或 bikeitrentals.com）可供选择。也可 以畅游海船酒吧，就是租用各式各样 的小船，甚至有清新搞怪的海盗船， 离开海岸线来一场惬意的短途航行， 海风拂面伴随着美妙的音乐，享受塞 萨洛尼基特有的轻松氛围。

伞，仲格罗普洛斯

BICYCLES FOR ALL 多人自行车

THESSALONIKI CONCERT HALL 塞萨洛尼基音乐厅

海滨是这座城市最受青睐的拍照之地，也 是慢跑和自行车骑行的理想路线，日落时 分，在壮观美丽的夕阳余晖中，来一场动 人浪漫的漫步是最优雅不过的了。悠长的 海滨大道始于港口的工业景观区，这里的 旧码头被改造为艺术画廊和博物馆，如电 影 博 物 馆 和 摄 影 博 物 馆。海 滨 长 廊 沿 着 瑟 迈 科 斯 海 岸 蜿 蜒 持 续 好 几 公 里，途 经 最 繁 华 热 闹 的 地 标 性 建 筑 白 塔，不 远 处 展示着著名雕塑家George Zongolopoulos（1903-2004）的标志性作品“伞” 。此外， 还有12个主题公园供市民休闲放松和运 动，并修建了滑板道。海滨大道的尽头便是 塞萨洛尼基音乐厅，包括两幢醒目的建筑， 其中一座由日本建筑师Arata Isozaki设计， 其简单大气的风格深受市民喜爱。

PANORAMIC VIEW 城市全景

Shutterstock, Via Flickr, Courtesy of Thessaloniki Concert Hall

A good idea in order to enjoy the promenade, is to rent a bicycle and ride on the cycling lane alongside the sea. In addition to regular bicycles, there are also double or family bicycles (see: thessbike.gr, or bikeitrentals.com). The Boat Bars, on the other hand, are small boats - some of them resembling pirate ships -, that make small excursion cruises just a few metres off the shore, accompanied by music, in the typically relaxed mood of Thessaloniki.

UMBRELLAS, ZONGOLOPOULOS

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ΑUTHENTIC GREEK STYLE IN THE CITY CENTRE 城市中心的正宗希腊风

T H ES SA LO N I K I M A R K ET S

Vibrancy, variety and fragrances

Shutterstock

8

塞萨洛尼基大市场：充满活 力、种类繁多、新鲜芬芳

At the galleries of the quaint and bustling Modiano Market (Aristotelous Square and Ermou) and surrounding streets we will find spices, cheeses, groceries and household items. Also small restaurants, ouzeri and grill houses with excellent food. Very close by, around the old baths of Yahoudi Hamam, there is a colourful outdoor flower market. Antiques and rare items that can be found well-hidden between the apartment blocks, Bit Bazaar Square (32-34 Prosfigikis Agoras) - a name that in Turkish means “Bargain Market”.

The setting changes at the prestigious Tsimiski Street and surrounding streets.

A true paradise for shopping lovers with stores for clothes, footwear, sports goods, optics and jewellery. Elegant cafes can be found amongst the large branches of the international chains and brand names, for a quality break from shopping.

The Plateia Shopping Mall (43 Tsimiski), houses many department stores, cinemas and venues for dining and entertainment.

A variety of factory outlet stores are located just a short distance from the city’s centre, at the One Salonica Outlet Mall (10 Kotta Roulia, one-on-one.com), whereas you can find more than 200 stores and many entertainment options at the Mediterranean Cosmos (11th km of the National Road Thessaloniki-N.Moudania, medcosmos.gr).

ROMBA’S

The Romba’s family workshop specialises in anatomic leather sandals that can be customized for each customer. It has a wide variety and exceptional leather from Crete. (8 Antigonidon, +30 231 055 5130) Ancient Kallos is a clothing brand name that started in central Thessaloniki and has now “conquered” many cities around the world. Natural fabrics, elaborate embroidery and handmade detailed craftsmanship in a modern version of the Greek element.

(Showroom: 17 Antigonidon, +30 231 054 3131)

Ancient Kallos 是一家起源于塞萨洛尼 基市中心的服装品牌，到目前为止已经“ 征服”了世界各地许多城市。采用纯天然 面料，通过精美绝伦的刺绣和娴熟的手 工工艺将希腊元素成功融入现代服饰 设计中。 （展示厅：17 Antigonidon；电 话：+30 231 054 3131） Romba家庭作坊致力于皮革凉鞋 制作，可为每位顾客量身定制，采用 来自克里特岛的优质皮革。 （地址：8 Antigonidon；电话：+30 231 055 5130）

MEDITERRANEAN COSMOS 地中海购物中心

ANCIENT KALLOS 老卡罗服装店

古朴典雅的莫迪阿诺大市场（位于亚里士多德广场和爱尔慕大 街）总是充满着熙熙攘攘的人群，在其周边小街道上我们可以轻 松找到各种香料、奶酪、杂货和家居用品等，还有提供美味佳肴 的小餐馆、老酒馆和烤肉店。就在Yahoudi Hamam古老浴室附 近，坐落着一个姹紫嫣红的户外花卉市场。在街区之间的隐蔽小巷 中可以发现各种古玩和珍奇玩意儿，Bit Bazaar广场（Prosfigikis Agoras街 32-34 号）在土耳其语中就是“讨价还价的市场”的意思。 著名的Tsimiski购物区与热闹繁忙的大市场风格迥异，作为购物 爱好者的天堂，这里云集了众多时尚连锁商铺和国际潮流品牌， 包括精品服饰、鞋履、运动装备、眼镜店和珠宝店等。购物间隙，您 还可以选择在随处可见的优雅咖啡厅中稍作休憩。 普拉塔购物中心（Tsimiski 街43号）是一家大型百货商店，内设电 影院、餐厅和娱乐场所。距离城市中心几公里之遥的众多奥特莱 斯店也是您购物的不二选择，One Salonica奥特莱斯购物中心 （地址：10 Kotta Roulia；网址：one-on-one.com）拥有200多家 店铺；地中海购物中心更是云集了许多大型娱乐设施（距离塞萨 洛尼基-穆达尼亚国道11公里处，网址：medcosmos.gr） 。

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Science, education and innovation

不甘平庸的塞萨洛尼基：科学、教育及创新

9

Thessaloniki is a city which loves science and always looks ahead.

A bright example is the activity that began quite recently by the Municipality and the academic community, called Study in Thessaloniki, which aims to help young people from all over the world wishing to study here.

It is also a city which is keen on events, conferences and the exhibitions of economic interest, such as the Thessaloniki International Fair, the most important trade fair in Greece held since 1926. The more recent Thessaloniki Food Festival (foodfestival.thessaloniki.gr) is particularly dynamic and rich in gastronomic events.

The tendency towards innovation is expressed distinctly at the Thessaloniki Science Center and Technology Museum “Noesis”, where scientific and technological achievements are presented in an imaginative way. Of special interest are the simulations and virtual reality presentations, as well as the planetarium, the exhibitions and educational programmes for children. (6th km of Thessaloniki - Thermi Road; noesis.edu.gr; +30 231 048 3000)

URBAN TRANSPORT FROM THE FUTURE 未来城市交通

In recent months, certain threewheeled vehicles with a peculiar design and philosophy have been circulating in the streets of Thessaloniki. These are the premium electric bikes by Elektronio, a startup company that began here, now aspiring to spread all over the world. These models will offer safety and comfort, and one can also visit the workshop and with the manufacturers design a custom vehicle. (elektroniowheels.gr) 最近几个月，一批带有特殊设计机理 的三轮汽车在塞萨洛尼基街道上随 处可见。这些是由Elektronio设计的 高级电动自行车，作为一家本地的创 业公司，Elektronio正立志于进军全 世界。这些车型安全舒适，顾客可以随 意参观车间并定制个性化车辆。 （网 址：elektroniowheels.gr）

OTE TOWER OTE塔

塞萨洛尼基是一个热爱科学、充满了前瞻性思想的城市。值得一提的是 最近市政当局和学术界发起了名为“学在塞萨洛尼基”的学术活动，旨 在帮助来自世界各地有意在此学习的年轻人。 同时，她也是一个热衷于举办各种活动、国际会议和经济博览会的城市，比 如国际知名的塞萨洛尼基国际博览会，这是自1926年以来在希腊举行的最重 要的贸易展览会。最近举办的塞萨洛尼基美食节（foodfestival.thessaloniki. gr）更是美食界众所周知的大事件。 塞萨洛尼基科技中心和技术博物馆Noesis通过极具想象力的科技成就展表 现当下科学创新的新趋势。最特别的要属模拟虚拟现实演示，还有天文馆、各 种展览和儿童教育项目等。 （地址：距离塞萨洛尼基-赛尔米路6公里处；网址： noesis.edu.gr;；电话：+30 231 048 3000）

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The arts of T H ES SA LO N I K I

THESSALONIKI BIENNALE OF CONTEMPORARY ART 塞萨洛尼基当代艺术双年展

THESSALONIKI CONCERT HALL 塞萨洛尼基音乐厅

塞萨洛尼基艺术

Inaugurated in 1960, the Thessaloniki International Film Festival (filmfestival.gr) has earned a place among the world’s most important film festivals. It takes place every November, primarily at the harbour’s old docks, marking a festive occasion for the city. Equally festive is the atmosphere at the Dimitria (dimitria.thessaloniki.gr). The name refers to the goddess Demeter and the grand festival of antiquity celebrated in her honour. The modern-day Dimitria have been unfailingly taking place since 1966 and include theatre, music, dance and artistic events.

Every two years, the people of the arts make their appointment at the Thessaloniki Biennale of Contemporary Art (thessalonikibiennale.gr). Its sixth event held this year which ends on 14/1/2018, is titled “Imagined Homes”. The impressive Thessaloniki Concert Hall (Odos 25 Martiou & Paralia, tch.gr, +30 2310 895800), hosts musical events all year round. One of these events is the very lively Piano Festival, during the winter months.

始于1960年的塞萨洛尼基国际电影节 （filmfestival.gr）在全球最重要的电影节 中赢得了一席之地。电影节于每年11月在 旧港老码头举行，整个城市借此举行一系 列庆祝活动。同样富有节日氛围的还有迪 米特里亚节（dimitria.thessaloniki.gr） ，以 古希腊女神迪米特之名举行盛大的庆典活 动。迪米特里亚这个名字也从1966年风靡流行到现在，直到今天还经常出现在戏剧、音乐、 舞蹈和艺术活动中。 每两年来自世界各地的艺术家们会如约参加塞萨洛尼基当代艺术双年展（thessalonikibiennale.gr） 。今年第六届双年展主题为“梦想之家” ，将于2018年1月14日结束。气势恢 弘的塞萨洛尼基音乐厅（地址：Odos 25 Martiou & Paralia；网址：tch.gr；电话：+30 2310 895800）将全年举办各种音乐活动，其中最不容错过的是在冬季上演的钢琴音乐节。

INNOVATIVE ASPECTS Modern Greek art is exhibited permanently at the Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art (154 Egnatia +30 231 024 0002) where, among other exhibits, a significant portion of Alexander Iola’s collection is shown. At the Thessaloniki State Museum of Contemporary Art (21 Kolokotroni Street, +30 231 068 4655), inside the beautiful building of the Moni Lazariston, one can admire the renowned Costakis collection, with thousands of masterpieces of the Russian avant-garde from the early 20th century (Malevich, Kliun, Rodchenko, Popova, etc.)

大胆创新

马其顿当代艺术博物馆（地址：54 Egnatia；电话：+30 231 024 0002） 永久性展出现代希腊艺术珍品，其中 Alexander Iola个人珍藏品也有相当一 部分被展出。萨洛尼基国家当代艺术博 物馆（地址：2 Kolokotroni；电话：+30 231 068 4655，+302310684655）坐落 于优雅美丽的Moni Lazariston建筑 中，参观者可以在这里尽情欣赏著名收 藏家科斯塔基的珍贵个人收藏，包括成 千上万幅20世纪初期俄罗斯先锋派代 表艺术家的杰作（马列维奇、克里翁、 费迪南、波波瓦等） 。

«PORTRAIT», KAZIMIR MALEVICH, COSTAKIS COLLECTION 《肖像》 ，卡斯米尔·马列维奇，Costakis收藏

MONI LAZARISTON 莫利拉札利斯通建筑

We warmly thank the City of Thessaloniki for his exquisite collection of photos. 我们对塞萨洛尼基市政府提供的精美照片表示诚挚的感谢。

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Senses TRAVEL YOUR

感觉行天下

WINTER FAVOURITES ALEXANDER’S CIGAR LOUNGE

Refined tobacco culture and premium spirits

Warm, inviting dining stops, amazing wines, fancy cocktails and roaring fireplaces

ALEXANDER’S CIGAR LOUNGE 亚历山大雪茄酒廊

亚历山大雪茄酒廊

精致的烟草文化和高档 烈酒

Cigar aficionados and spirit connoisseurs will find 雪茄爱好者和烈酒鉴赏家将在 their shrine in the Grande Bretagne. Found on 大不列颠酒店找寻到属于你们 the first floor of the atmospheric historic hotel in 的圣地。这家历史悠久的酒店坐 Syntagma Square, the Alexander’s Cigar Lounge is 落于宪法广场对面，亚历山大雪 a luxurious retreat with a colonial style decoration 茄酒廊位于酒店一层，采用殖民 which exudes a very distinctive and sophisticated 地时期高贵豪华的装修风格，整 warmth. There is plenty to discover here, starting 个酒廊充盈着独特而精致的温 温暖舒适的餐厅，诱 with the exquisite collection of handmade Cuban 馨氛围。这里是雪茄的王国，有 人美味的葡萄酒，色 cigars, that combine prestige and refinement with 各种手工制作的古巴雪茄精致 彩绚丽的鸡尾酒，熊 their rich and intricate aromas. They come in 珍藏，散发着高级雪茄特有的丰 various sizes and types such as mild, medium and 富而有层次的香气，包装各异， 熊燃烧的壁炉 full bodied. Light up a gigantic Gran Corona or 大小不同，根据浓郁程度分为温 Robusto and relax in the impressive leather sofa or 和、中度和浓郁。点一只独枝大皇 elegant armchairs, while the woods burns slowly in the wonderful 冠雪茄，或者罗布斯托，在柔软舒适的真皮沙发或古典优雅的扶手 arched fireplace. Along with it, serve a cogniac, a brandy, or 椅上尽情放松，不远处的拱形壁炉中木材正缓缓燃烧，发出美妙的 a port, a rum, a Scottish single malt whiskey, a bourbon, and 滋滋声。除此之外，这里还提供各式酒水，如干邑、白兰地、波特酒、 why not, a fine wine from its fully informed bar and intensify 朗姆酒、苏格兰单一麦芽威士忌、波旁威士忌等等，当然还有各种 the experience. The secret to a perfect pairing lies in matching 葡萄酒可供选择，您可以在此尽情体验。最完美的搭配秘诀在于将 the body of the beverage, to the body of the cigar. (Vasileos 酒体与雪茄的整体基调相融合。 （地址：Vasileos Georgiou 1，SynGeorgiou 1, Syntagma, 2103330000, www.grandebretagne.gr - tagma；电话：2103330000；网址：www.grandebretagne.gr；地 Metro: Syntagma) 铁：Syntagma）

冬季最爱

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VEZENE

Cool bistronomy

You might have difficulty finding a table even mid-week, but this New York style aesthetic and upscale cuisine that combines Greek and world flavours, is not so popular by accident. In its wellinformed modern bistro, Aris Vezenes makes a lasting impression by combining amazing wood oven lamb pies, extremely delicious pasta with effective comfort food, well-picked and beautifully grilled meats and great seafood. If you have difficulty choosing, the courteous and very knowledgeable waiters can take over.

(Vrassida 11, Hilton area, 210-7232002, www.vezene.gr - Metro: Evangelismos) 维哲娜

时尚美食艺术

在这里甚至是非周末时间，您也可能很难预定到一张餐桌，这家 一座难求的餐厅呈现出现代纽约都市风格，提供传统希腊烹饪与 世界风味完美结合的精致菜肴。维哲娜餐厅提供美味多汁的木制 烤箱羊肉馅饼，让人垂涎不止的意大利面及其他点缀小菜，精心 挑选烹制的烤肉拼盘和各色海鲜美味。如果您有选择困难证，热 情周到的服务员将为您挑选出最适合您的菜肴。 （地址：Vrassida 11，希尔顿地区；电话：210-7232002；网址：www.vezene.gr；地 铁：Evangelismos）

PALEO

A personal wine journey

Found in an old tobacco warehouse from the 1900s, a cork’s pop from the Piraeus metro station, situated between ironsmiths and motor repair shops, is one of the city’s most ambient wine bars.

A high-ceiling hall with a vintage industrial style and wooden rooftop, with shelves loaded with open bottles (the domestic and non-domestic wine-abilia of owner and sommelier Yannis Kaimenakis’s wine tours), a wine cellar in the back and the ambient lighting, all create a warm setting for acquainting yourself with the vineyards of the European South which star in the wide range list. You can accompany your wine with cheese and cured meats and Mediterranean dishes.

(Polydefkous 39, Piraeus, 210-4125204 Metro: Piraeus)

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VEZENE 维哲娜

原始人酒吧

个性葡萄酒之旅

酒吧坐落于20世纪一个古老的烟草仓库中，毗邻比雷埃夫斯地铁 站，位于铁匠铺和汽车维修店之间，被认为是雅典城最受欢迎的 酒吧之一。极高的天花板显示出浓重的复古工业风格，木制屋顶 上悬挂着各式酒瓶（这是酒吧所有者/侍酒师Yannis Kaimenakis 从希腊和非洲各葡萄酒庄园精心收集来的各种葡萄酒） ，背后的酒 窖和柔和的灯光为整个酒吧营造出轻松惬意的氛围，在这里，您 可以了解来自欧洲南部各大葡萄庄园的精品佳酿，这是酒单中的 明星产品。可选择以奶酪、腌制肉类和其他地中海佳肴搭配美味 葡萄酒。 （地址：Polydefkous 39，Piraeus；电话：210-4125204；地 铁：Piraeus）

ZONARS

A legend updated

Now remarkably renewed and entering its new era, this historic café-patisserie that opened its doors in 1940 during the war period, and which has hosted many of the city’s most important intellectuals, artists and politicians, is in the mood for a party. At sundown, it puts on its sexy evening look, gets transformed into a bar-restaurant, fills its large bar with beautiful people and rhythms with alternating DJ’s on its console, and has live international repertoire performances and happenings. (Voukourestiou 9 & Panepistimiou, 210-3251430, www. panasgroup.gr - Metro: Syntagma) PALEO

原始人酒吧

祖纳斯

传奇之演变

这家历史悠久的咖啡馆首次在战争时期 1940年开门营业，曾经接待了这座城市 最重要的知识分子、艺术家和政治家，如 今这里已经装饰一新，是您举办派对的无 二选择。夜幕降临时，咖啡厅呈现出性感 迷人的一面，变身为动感十足的现代酒吧 餐厅，宽阔的大厅中充满了熙熙攘攘的美 丽人群，伴随着DJ的节奏轻轻摇摆，这里

还经常有现场国际演出和表演。 （地址：Voukourestiou 9＆Panepistimiou；电话：210-3251430；网址：www.panasgroup.gr；地 铁：Syntagma）

ZONARS 祖纳斯

CV DISTILLER

Greek drama walks into a bar

Hundreds of whiskies from every part of the world have been carefully listed in its eclectic collection; not to say that, if you’d rather have rum or tequila, you will be unsatisfied. If you are into fine spirits, you will then sit at the impressive semi-circular bar stools and commence your exploration. Through that, you will also discover something else which is just as interesting: the cocktail list draws inspiration from ancient Greek tragedy. Well, a bar seems like an appropriate place to achieve “catharsis”, a fundamental element of Greek drama, which is “a release of emotional tension after an overwhelming experience, resulting in the purging or purifying of emotions”. (Hatzigianni Mexi 7, Hilton area, 210-7231767 - Metro: Evangelismos) CV蒸馏器

希腊戏剧走进酒吧

酒吧精心收集了来自世界各地的数百种威士忌，哪怕您只想要来 杯朗姆酒或龙舌兰酒，您也一定会心满意足。如果想品尝各种烈 酒，您可以选择在令人印象深刻的半圆形酒吧周围坐下，开始一 场探索希腊烈酒的旅程。除了烈酒外，您还会会在这里发现更多 更有趣的元素：这里鸡尾酒的创作大多是从古希腊悲剧中汲取灵 感的。整个酒吧仿佛更像一座艺术的殿堂，您可以体会古希腊戏 剧最基本的重要因素之一——宣泄，即为“在经过一系列重大事件 后，紧张万分的情绪终于得以完全释放，实现情绪的清除和净化” 。 （地址：Hatzigianni Mexi 7，希尔顿地区；电话：210-7231767；地 铁：Evangelismos ）

CV DISTILLER CV蒸馏器

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WINTER GARDEN 冬季花园

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EPTA 7 RESTAURANT BAR 7号酒吧餐厅

WINTER GARDEN

Memorable high tea

As you enter the lobby of the Grande Bretagne hotel, you find yourself in this deluxe and prestigious space with marble columns, stained glass, gold details, plenty of natural light and piano melodies that fill you with a sense of calm. Tea is ceremonially served from 12 o’clock until 8 pm in polished teapots and porcelain cups, accompanied by small sandwiches, freshly baked scones, excellent marmalades and mini-sweets from the hotel’s confectioners, which make you feel like a true English nobleman. You can always have coffee, and whilst you’re at it try a tarte tatin, a millefeuilles or a galaktoboureko, the traditional Greek syrup sweet with phyllo and cream. (Vasileos Georgiou 1, Syntagma, 210-3330000, www. grandebretagne.gr - Metro: Syntagma) 冬季花园

难以忘怀的下午茶时光

当您步入大不列颠酒店大厅时，映入眼帘的便是这家高贵豪华的 咖啡厅，这里以大理石石柱为装饰，点缀着彩色玻璃，充满金色的 细节，充足柔和的自然光线和美妙的钢琴旋律，所有这一切都让 您感受到前所未有的宁静。每日12时至下午8时是下午茶时间， 精巧奢华的茶壶和陶瓷茶杯盛满茶水，同时搭配小三明治，新鲜 出炉的烤饼，美味果酱和酒店糕点店的自制迷你糖果，让您感觉 到自己像一位真正的英国贵族。当然，您也可以在此享用咖啡，品 尝法式苹果挞、拿破仑蛋糕和希腊蛋奶酥皮派，这是一种用奶油 和糖浆做成的传统希腊甜点。 （地址：Vasileos Georgiou 1，Syntagma；电话：210-3330000；网址：www.grandebretagne.gr；地 铁：Syntagma）

FAUST

A unique artistic bar

EPTA 7 RESTAURANT BAR

Mediterranean-inspired

At the spot where Monastiraki meets Thisseio, in the bustle of the flea market, between cafes and folklore tavernas, it stands out with its elegant surroundings and Mediterranean food with Greek ingredients and modern culinary perception. And it also hides a special secret. After trying the Greek sushi with vine leaves and shrimp and having had a sip of your cocktail, if you go down to the private area with the glass floor right under the main hall, you will see the archaeological finds right under your feet. It literally stands on top of ancient Athens. (Ermou 119 & Astigos 10, Thisseio, 210-3212010 - Metro: Thisseio / Monastiraki) 7号酒吧餐厅

地中海风格

Monastiraki广场和Thisseio交汇处，在跳蚤市场热闹喧嚣的背景 下，在各种咖啡馆和传统小酒馆之间隐藏着一家优雅而现代的地中 海餐厅，这里主打以希腊当地食材精心烹制的现代地中海美味佳 肴。当然，餐厅还隐藏了一个特殊的秘密。在品尝了用葡萄藤叶和海 虾制作的希腊寿司并畅饮了特色鸡尾酒之后，您可以进入餐厅隐秘 区，就在大厅的透明玻璃地板之下，您会发现您的脚下正是古希腊 考古遗迹，您正“立足”于古雅典之上。 （地址：Ermou 119＆Astigos 10，Thisseio；电话：210-3212010；地铁：Thisseio / Monastiraki）

DRY & RAW BY DRACOULIS

With meticulously crafted timeworn-style walls, old chandeliers, vintage furniture, wooden bed headboards placed upside down to serve as ambient lighting fixtures, this artistic bar and music venue has a truly charming theatrical ambience. It combines drinks and cheerful crowds, with good music from Djs that alternate on the mixing console and live performances that range from soul, funk, electro and reggae to pop, rock or world music, in a programme which changes daily. Since the owner is a well-known Greek actor, theatrical performances also do not go amiss. (Kalamiotou 11 & Athinaidos 12, 210-3234095, www. faust.gr - Metro: Monastiraki)

A carnivore’s paradise

独特的艺术酒吧

肉食者的天堂

浮士德

精心雕琢的复古墙壁，老式大吊灯，古董家具，倒置的木制床头板， 这一切为这座艺术气息浓厚的酒吧营造了温馨迷人的氛围。这里 提供各种饮品，优雅美丽的人群，DJ在调音台上交替播放各种风格 的音乐，还有丰富多彩的现 场表演，从灵魂、朋克、电子 乐、雷鬼音乐到流行音乐、摇 滚音乐和世界音乐，每天都 赋予变化。酒吧主人是一位 有名的希腊演员，所以千万 不要错过这里的戏剧表演。 （地址：Kalamiotou 11 ＆Athinaidos 12；电话：2103234095；网址：www.faust. gr；地铁：Monastiraki）

It is quite a distance from the city centre so you will have to make a short trip to discover it, but this cool restaurant, hidden in the basement of a top notch butcher’s shop in the southern suburbs, is a true experience. You will find a fine tartar and spaghetti bolognese in its straightforward menu. Then comes the art of “high butchery”. In order to pick the piece of meat of your choice, you will once again go up the stairs for a mini-tour of the extremely tempting refrigerators, which are like a... library of breeds and geographic origins with an amazing dry aged selection. (Vas. Pavlou 103, Voula, 210-8955655, www.drakoulis.gr) 德拉库里斯干货生鲜店

这里远离市中心，您需要驱车一段距离去发现它。这家酷炫的餐 厅就隐藏在雅典最著名的生鲜店地下室，您将在这里享受前所未 有的用餐体验。您将品尝到最美味的法式鞑靼牛排和意大利肉 酱 面。之 后 您 便 有 机 会 欣 赏 到 高 雅 的“ 肉 铺 ”艺 术， DRY & RAW BY DRACOULIS 您需要上楼至生鲜店亲自 德拉库里斯干货生鲜店 挑 选 各 种 鲜 肉，这 仿 佛 是 一 个 肉 类 的 博 物 馆，您 将 见到来自不同地区不同品 种的各种新鲜肉类和具有 独 特 风 味 的 风 干 肉 制 品。 （地址：Vas. Pavlou 103 ，Voula；电话：210-8955655 ；网址：www.drakoulis.gr）

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SPIROMILIOS ARCADE

斯皮罗米里奥斯拱廊

One of the most beautiful arcades of downtown Athens awaits you at the centre of a building complex, encircled by the streets of Voukourestiou, Panepistimiou, Stadiou and Amerikis, which offers numerous options for high end shopping. It is festively decorated in the Christmas spirit and sparkling like a true beauty, as well as being lively and cosmopolitan during the rest of the year. While enjoying your coffee or lunch, picking between the Clemente, Pasaji, City Bistro and the Bar de Téatre, your eyes are then drawn by the impressive “Passage” sculpture by artist Vana Xenou, and a series of figures made of brass and stainless steel, which, like flying balancers, sway from one end to the other, just under the glass roof of the arcade. (Metro: Syntagma)

雅典市中心最美丽的拱廊正等待着您的光临，它坐落于一 个建筑群的中心，由此呈圆形发散出Voukourestiou，Pan epistimiou，Stadiou和Amerikis四条大道，这里是高端奢 华购物的不二选择。现在拱廊布满了圣诞节装饰，如同一位 美丽的少女闪闪发光，其他时间这里也随时充满了活力，彰 显着国际大都市风格。如果您想要享用咖啡或午餐，可以 在Clemente，Pasaji，City Bistro和Bar deTéatre咖啡厅之 间进行选择，您一定会被艺术家Vana Xenou令人印象深刻 的“通道”雕塑作品吸引眼球，这是一系列由黄铜和不锈钢 制作的艺术形象，他们如同飞行平衡器一版，在拱廊的玻璃 屋顶下从一端摇摆至另一端。 （地铁：Syntagma）

美丽的通道

SPIROMILIOS ARCADE 斯皮罗米里奥斯拱廊

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Photo: George Xigos

A beautiful passage

SCALA VINOTECA 古董葡萄酒

SCALA VINOTECA

Wine and dine

Hidden in a quiet spot of Kolonaki, just a few steps above the street of Sina, in a quiet spot of Kolonaki, this well-crafted designer wine restaurant treats wine and food with the same scrutiny. A nice place for friendly meetings and tête-à-têtes with an impressive total black cellar as a backdrop, it impresses you with the range of interesting selections from Greek and international vineyards, and with its cuisine, which knows when to be elegant and when to be plenty. (Sina 50 & Anagnostopoulou, Kolonaki, 210-3610041, www.scalavinoteca.com Metro: Panepistimio) 古董葡萄酒

美酒与美食

距离Sina街仅几步之遥，坐落于Kolonaki区的安静一隅，这家精心 设计的葡萄酒餐厅提供精选美酒与美食。这里是您与 朋友会面或私人聚会的理想选择。餐厅装饰风格颇令 人印象深刻，以经典大气的黑色酒窖为背景。这里为您 提供众多葡萄酒选择，从希腊当地知名品种到国际品 种，同时提供精致可口的美味佳肴。 （地址：Sina 50 & Anagnostopoulou， Kolonaki；电话：210-3610041； 网址：www.scalavinoteca.com；地铁：Panepistimio）

carrots and chicken broth, a zucchini soup with zaatar, cooked with finocchio and sun dried tomato, or a beetroot soup with crab apples, carrots, ginger and orange. (Karori & Aiolou, 2130318060, www.feyrouz.gr - Metro: Monastiraki) 凡屋露丝

浪漫满勺

这家精致小巧的小吃店由来自安蒂奥克/黎巴嫩和塞浦路斯/君士 坦丁堡的两位家庭共同创建，这里最有名的特色是lechmatzun （肉末夹薄饼） ，但在冬天，他们为在Aiolou区周边散步的人们提 供热腾腾的汤类美食。您将会坐在柜台上——这里没有单独的桌 子——把汤匙浸入满是胡萝卜和鸡肉的红茴香汤，或用茴香和干 番茄制作的西葫芦汤，又或是山楂、胡萝卜、姜和橙子煮成的香甜 浓汤。 （地址：Karori＆Aiolou；电话：213-0318060；网址：www. feyrouz.gr；地铁：Monastiraki） FEYROUZ 凡屋露丝

FEYROUZ

A spoonful of comfort

In this tiny and very friendly shop created by a family with roots from Antioch and Lebanon, Cyprus and Constantinople, the specialties may well be the lechmatzun, but in winter, they make hot soups for those who stroll around Aiolou and the neighbouring streets. You will sit on the counter - no tables here and dip your spoon into a red lentil soup with fennel,

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NEW ENTRIES

Exciting restaurant & bar additions to the Athenian scene 新开张

雅典城除了美景还有 众多令人兴奋的餐厅 酒吧供您选择

美女杀死了野兽 1933年，第一部《金刚》在美国电影院上映， 同一年，容纳这家酒吧的雅典新古典主义建筑正式落成。正如电影中 最后一句，来这家令人印象深刻的全天候酒吧进行一场“洗礼” ，这里 的美丽让人不忍亵渎，一片小小的丛林静静躺在它的脚下。白天，您 可以在此享用咖啡和新鲜果汁，晚上这里提供各式各样的原创鸡尾 酒，并有小零食可供选择。听着悠扬动人的音乐，感受着轻松惬意的氛 围，这里的目标只有一个：美战胜一切。 （地址：Paramythias 14，Kerameikos；电话：210-5240117；地铁：Kerameikos）

333 & CHEF’S WORKSHOP This modern urban little gem, is a new kid on the block found between Syntagma and Plaka, with embossed triangles on the guardrail, a beautiful marble bar, designer furnishings and custom made lighting fixtures. As a matter of fact, the corner table can be raised with a device, giving you plenty of room to enjoy your cocktail after a meal! It is lively in the morning, serving coffee and beignets and many options for brunch, and matching the Mediterranean fusion cuisine with organic and biodynamic wines. And if you try the clams with champagne sauce and

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333 & CHEF’S WORKSHOP 333&主厨工作坊

BEAUTY KILLED THE BEAST 美女杀死了野兽

PHOTO: STR ATIS PANTERMALIS

BEAUTY KILLED THE BEAST In 1933, the same year that this Athenian Neoclassic house was built which houses the establishment, the first King Kong film came to the cinemas. The last line heard in the film, ‘christened’ this impressive all-day bar with its beautiful corners and a small jungle found right under… its feet. During the day, you can have coffee and fresh juices, original cocktails in the evening, with some food options. Enjoy good music and feel-good vibes, found in a spot that has set the goal: beauty comes first. (Paramythias 14, Kerameikos, 2105240117 Metro: Kerameikos)

mustard caviar and the deep fried rooster with bisque sauce and stir fried orzo on the lower level, then, hidden on the top level, is a 14 person chef’s table, which hosts different guest chefs and themed gourmet events every month. (Nikis 33 & Navarhou Nicodimou 3, Syntagma, 6907526839 www.333restaurants.gr -Metro: Syntagma)

333&主厨工作坊 宪法广场和普拉卡老城之间，出现了一颗摩登华丽的红宝石！护栏 上精心雕刻着细致的三角形浮雕，美丽奢华的大理石台面，设计独 特的家具摆设和高级定制照明设备，惊喜之处更在于位于角落的 餐桌可以自动升起，让您在一顿饱餐之后有足够的空间享用色彩 斑斓的鸡尾酒！这里的早上总是热闹非凡，提供咖啡、甜甜圈和众 多早午餐选择，正餐通常以地中海特色美食搭配有机葡萄酒。您一 定要尝试蛤蜊配香槟酱和芥 末鱼子酱，油炸鸡仔配浓汤 FLAMINGO 和粒粒面。餐厅层顶秘密隐 火烈鸟 藏着一张14人的主厨餐桌， 定期每月邀请不同客座主 厨在此举行主题美食活动。 （地址：Nikis 33＆Navarhou Nicodimou 3，Syntagma，电话：6907526839；网 址： www.333restaurants. gr；地铁：Syntagma）

FLAMINGO Using the pink flamingo as its signage, this all-day hangout is designed in mild tones (simple industrial lines, many plants, warm wooden structures, large glass windows for plenty of light during the day and a subtle night lighting, an isolated mezzanine furnished like a living room), and attracts an easy-going crowd, and it harmoniously blends with the quiet neighbourhood it is found in. The fully-fledged menu includes breakfast, brunch, finger food, cold and hot dishes, whereas the bar serves a variety of aperitivi, signature cocktails with names from exotic destinations and meddled classics. (Efranoros 22 & Krisila, Pagrati, 211-4104639)

火烈鸟 以粉红色的火烈鸟为标志，这家全天候酒吧餐厅整个设计风格大 气柔和（简单的工业生产线，许多绿植，温暖的木质结构，巨型玻璃 窗使得这里白天充足光线，夜间灯光氤氲，带隔层的包厢让您有 家的感觉） 。这里吸引着不少当地人群，与周围宁静祥和的街区氛 围相互融合。餐厅提供早餐、早午餐、小吃、冷盘和正餐，酒吧供应 各种开胃酒和颇有异国情调的招牌鸡尾酒。 （地址：Efranoros 22 ＆Krisila，Pagrati；电话：211-4104639）

BLOCK 146 Its history began at the northern suburbs of the city, but recently, it has acquired a second home situated in a privileged downtown spot, right in the square of Kolonaki. It kicks-off in the morning with coffee, brunch and lunch (superfood salads, burgers, pizza and comfort food), accommodating at its tables both the business crowd, as well as anyone shopping in the vicinity, while in the evenings it puts on another face: At nightfall, everything revolves around the impressive central bar, where you will find beautiful people sipping their drink in a flirtatious mood, and dancing when the music volume goes up with mainstream attitude rhythms often in a mood for a party. (Plateia Filikis Etaireias 14, Kolonaki, 210-7220649 - Metro: Syntagma)

146城市中心 餐厅历史起源于雅典城北部郊区，最近刚刚在繁华热闹的商业区 Kolonaki广场开了第二家分店。早上提供咖啡、早午餐和午餐（超 级沙拉、汉堡、披萨和其他小零食） ，来餐厅光临的常客大多为在附 近工作的商务人士，也包括来此购物的人群，到了晚上，这里则呈现 出另外一副面孔：夜幕降临时分，一个让人印象深刻的中央酒吧显 现出来，周围人群环绕，踌躇交错，杯盏摇曳，随着音乐节拍的升高， 舞会时间到，尽情享受这气氛热烈的派对吧。 （地址：Plateia Filikis Etaireias 14，Kolonaki；电话：210-7220649；地铁：Syntagma）

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MEERKAT COCKTAIL SAFARI Named after the adorable mammal with the strong family values, as t​​ o also express the character of the proprietors, this cocktail bar explores African exoticism by laying actual sand at its entrance, using colonial decoration motifs and playing tribal music soundtracks (for evening dancing), and African jazz (until the afternoon). The co-owner, Romain Krot, who has worked as head bartender and bar manager at award-winning bars in Paris, is in charge of cocktails and will guide anyone who wants to create their own signature cocktail.

Also served here, are Tartines and French-inspired breakfasts.

(Chr i stou Vyzantiou 7, Koukaki, 213-0453390 www. meerkatcocktailsafari.com - Metro: Koukaki)

FARMA BRALOU 布拉鹿农场餐厅

FARMA BRALOU RESTAURANT A highly meat-loving arrival at a very popular pedestrian street of the city centre, this restaurant by one of the most renowned Greek farms, is just a stone’s throw away from its beautiful, also newly established, butchery. With wood and leather prevailing in a cozy environment, it features as its protagonists homegrown quality meats, many of which are improved in flavour and texture through the process of dry aging. The collection displayed in the fridge-showcase is truly impressive. Just pick the piece of your preference, grill at the open grill area, and have it land striaght on your table. (Milioni 12 &, Iraklitou, Kolonaki, - Metro: Syntagma) 布拉鹿农场餐厅 这家颇受肉食者喜爱的餐厅坐落于市中心非常热闹的一条步行 街上，是希腊最负盛名的农场餐厅之一，距离它新建立的生鲜店 只有一步之遥。餐厅内部主要采用木材和皮革进行装饰，营造温 暖舒适的氛围。这里的主角是本地生产的优质肉类，经过干燥陈 酿的过程，风味和质地更佳。餐厅设有冰箱展示，陈列着各种各样 的精品肉类收藏，让人印象非常深刻。您可以任意选择自己喜欢的 种类，直接在开放烧烤区进行烤制，之后便可以大快朵颐了。 （电 话：Milioni 12＆Iraklitou，Kolonaki；地铁：Syntagma） COYOACAN 科约阿坎

海猫鸡尾酒历险记 这家鸡尾酒吧以非常可爱憨厚的哺乳动物海猫命名，海猫被认为 是忠实的家庭拥护者，酒吧主人也借此表达自己的理念。酒吧入 口处铺满了柔软的沙子，营造出遥远的非洲部落异国情调，并使 用了颇有殖民地风格的装饰图案，晚上跳舞背景音乐以部落打击 乐为主，下午主要播放非洲爵士乐。酒吧主人之一Romain Krot曾 在巴黎大名鼎鼎的各大酒吧担任负责人和酒吧经理，主要负责鸡 尾酒调制，并指导有兴趣的顾客调制出属于自己的个性鸡尾酒。 酒吧还供应奶油果 酱 面 包 和 法 式 早 餐。 （地址：Christou Vyzantiou 7，Koukaki； 电话：213-0453390； 网址：www.meerkat cocktailsafari.com；电 话：Koukaki）

COYOACAN Since it borrows its name from the town where Frida Kahlo was born, it is no wonder that the Mexican MEERKAT COCKTAIL SAFARI artist plays a leading 海猫鸡尾酒历险记 role in this joyous new Mexican realm which is set up in a beautiful stone building of Thisseio. This lively barrestaurant is sown with murals, bright skulls, colourful cushions with Latin-American motifs and string curtains, divided into rooms and hides everything from a chef’s table, to a tequileria and a gallery. Here, you will eat anything from ceviche and trendy tacos, to meat with full Mexican trimmings, or a seafood paella, and drink various cocktails with a Mexican colour - the Sagrita Sagrita especially, is fabulous. (Irakleidon 10, Thisseio, 210-3450003 - Metro: Thisseio)

科约阿坎 以著名墨西哥艺术家弗里达·卡罗出生之地命名，坐落于Thisseio 区一栋美丽大气的石头建筑中，这家新开的墨西哥风味酒吧餐厅 提供轻松欢乐的氛围。餐厅以大型壁画为装饰，布满了明亮的头骨 饰品，色彩缤纷的坐垫绘有独特的拉丁美洲风情图案，流水型线帘 将餐厅分隔为不同部分，如隐藏的后厨准备区、用餐区和画廊区。 在这里您有机会品尝酸橘汁腌鱼和新式炸玉米饼，千万不要错过 墨西哥鱼片和海鲜拼盘，还有各种墨西哥鸡尾酒，尤其是大名鼎鼎 的塞格瑞塔。 （地址：Irakleidon 10，Thisseio；电话：210-3450003； 地铁：Thisseio）

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GREEK TASTE

Cool street food and selections for the upscale diners, interesting local wines and imaginative cocktails all fusing nostalgia and novelty to lure both tourists and locals. In these eateries and drinking dens greekness reigns supreme.

FUNKY GOURMET 时尚美食

The Greek salad goes avant-garde

Two chefs, two Michelin stars and a mind blowing gastronomic show with splendid performances await you in a tasteful old house in Kerameikos. Innovative, visually and tastefully stimulating, dining at the Funky Gourmet becomes an exciting experience.

The adventurous dishes from the degustation menu of Georgiana Hiliadaki and Nikos Roussos permeate the Greek tradition with international haute cuisine trends, references and techniques. A playful picnic set up piece by piece on the table with a cuttlefish oreo, a surprising Greek salad granita and the daring “Silence of the lamb”, are all dishes that will indelibly stay in your mind. (Paramythias 13 & Salaminos, Kerameikos, 2105242727, www.funkygourmet.com - Metro: Metaxourgeio / Kerameikos)

先锋派希腊沙拉

希腊风味

有趣美味的街头小 吃，奢华餐厅的玉盘 珍馐，种类丰富的当 地葡萄酒以及极具想 象力的鸡尾酒，各色 酒吧与餐厅交织着或 怀旧或新奇的氛围， 吸引着众多当地人和 外来游客。在这些饮 食圣地品味独一无二 的希腊至尊美味吧。

两位国际名厨，米其林二星头衔，精彩纷呈的美食表演，在位于Kerameikos一座古典雅 致的古建筑里，一场饕餮盛宴正期待着您的光临。时尚美食大胆进行美食创新，在视觉和 味觉的完美碰撞与刺激中，您将获得令人兴奋的用餐体验。主厨Georgiana Hiliadaki和 Nikos Roussos在保持希腊传统美味的基础上，融合了国际高级烹饪技术和潮流。这里最 具特色的要属“俏皮野餐组合” ，分碟呈现，每一份都精心配制，包括一只美味墨鱼、让人 惊艳的希腊沙拉以及独具创新的“沉默的 The holy (native) grapes 羔羊” ，这里每一道菜肴都必将让您回味无 Care for some serious wine-tasting? Greek wines has been evolving fast in recent years 穷，久久不能忘怀。 （地址：Paramythias 13 and have a lot to flaunt, so if you want to expand your palate, make a stop at By the & Salaminos, Kerameikos；电话： 210Glass. All you have to do is choose one of the tables that are set in a very atmospheric 5242727；网址：www.funkygourmet. and beautifully lit arcade, just a few steps from Syntagma Square, and the sommeliers com；地铁：Metaxourgeio / Kerameikos）

BY THE GLASS 杯盏之中

of this very friendly wine bar will introduce you to very interesting Greek varieties, such as the Assyrtiko and Malagousia, the Agiorgitiko, Xinomavro and some beautiful dessert wines too. (G. Souri 3 & Filellinon, Syntagma, 210-3232560, www.bytheglass. gr - Metro: Syntagma)

圣葡萄

您是深度葡萄酒爱好者？近些年希腊葡萄酒越来越被人关注，出现了不少精品佳酿，如果 您想扩展自己的葡萄酒单，品尝丰富多样的希腊葡萄酒，一定不要错过杯盏之中。这家别具 风情的酒吧距离宪法广场仅几步之遥，外设一个美丽大气的精致阳台，在这里，您需要做 的就是挑选一个喜欢的位置，热情好客的专业侍酒师将向您介绍各具特色的希腊品种，如 大名鼎鼎的阿斯提可、玛拉格西亚、阿吉提可、黑喜诺以及柔和轻盈的各色甜点葡萄酒。 （地 址：G.Souri 3＆Filellinon，Syntagma；电话：210-3232560；网址：www.bytheglass.gr ；地 铁：Syntagma）

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SENSE FINE DINING 感受美食餐厅

Inspired fine dining

At the Sense Fine Dining restaurant on the top of the elegant AthensWas Hotel, the view is definately a strong card, but not the only plus. The view of the Acropolis from here blends well with the refined contemporary cooking aspect of Thodoris Papanikolaou, one of the most talented chefs of his generation.

Do not miss out on his Seascape which is a fantastic collection of seafood, the excellent Aegean Sea cod with an artichoke topinambur cream and a lime granita and chocolate... pillars to finish off. (Dionysiou Areopagitou 5, 210-9200240, www. athenswas.gr - Metro: Acropolis)

灵感美食

位于雅诗阁酒店顶层的Sense Fine Dining餐厅拥有独一无二的 辽阔视野，这绝对是一张吸引众多食客的王牌，但却不仅仅如此。 在这里，您可以眺望古老壮阔的雅典帕特农神庙，尽享当代天才 名厨Thodoris Papanikolaou精心烹制的各色美味佳肴。不容错 过的还有丰盛的海鲜盛宴，包括爱琴海优质鳕鱼搭配洋姜奶油朝 鲜蓟、柠檬格兰尼塔冰糕与多立克柱式巧克力。 （地址：Dionysiou Areopagitou；电话：210-9200240；网址：www.athenswas.gr；地 铁：Acropolis）

Tsipouro goes hip and younthful

Tsipouro is connected with friendly company and the meze culture, it comes in two versions, with or without anise, and its natural habitat is the taverna.

So what is it doing in a bar? This strong Greek spirit has found new

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THE TRAP 陷阱酒吧

grounds at The Trap, a bar hidden in a small backstreet opposite Syntagma Square, and has also acquired a modern appearance.

Apart from the excellent collection of classic and aged tsipouro which you can drink straight or with ice, or the original cocktails proposed by the energetic bar team and the selection of whiskey, gin and rum aficionados, you will also find an Old Fashioned or a Negroni made with tsipouro. In addition, there is an imaginative, wide range bar food selection for accompaniment. (Othonos 10, Syntagma, 210-3215561 www.the trap.gr - Metro: Syntagma)

新式齐普罗烈酒

齐普罗烈酒是希腊热情友好的待客传统与麦泽（海鲜拼盘）文化的 忠实代表，分为添加茴香与不含茴香两种，通常出现在传统的希腊 家庭小酒馆中。那么在酒吧里它又有何用武之地呢？这种浓烈甘醇 的希腊烈酒在陷阱酒吧中开辟了新领域，酒吧隐藏于宪法广场对 面的狭窄小巷中，采用现代风格进行装饰。在这里，您可以品尝一 系列高品质经典陈酿齐普罗烈酒，可单独饮用或加冰块，还有众多 原创鸡尾酒以及威士忌、杜松子酒和朗姆酒等，最特别的当属由齐 普罗酒调制的希腊特色“旧时尚”和“尼克罗尼” 。除酒水外，这里还 有各种新鲜有趣的小吃下酒菜供您选择。 （地址：Othonos 10，Syntagma；电话：210-3215561； 网 址：w w w.t h e t r a p . g r；地 铁：Syntagma）

Fillo adventures

Greek pies have endless regional variations and traditions, both in terms of “fillo” (pastry dough) and filling. This is why the two former bankers who created Fillo have set up their assortment in

collaboration with women’s cooperatives from various parts of Greece. Depending on the day you visit, you can find cheese pies from Pella, onion pies and pies with greens from Kastoria, crispy handmade Cretan kaltsounia, sweet pumpkin pies or sweet milk pies from Larissa - and the list goes on. You can have them as a take-away, but if you sit at the tables opposite the small shop’s window you will be served in cute retro saucers. (Karagiorgi Servias 12-14, Syntagma, 210 3215373, www.fillo-cafe.gr Metro: Syntagma)

费罗冒险记

希腊馅饼种类繁多， “费罗” （面皮）和馅料在不同区域制作方式和 传统均不相同。由此，两位前银行家创立了费罗餐厅，邀请了来自 希腊各地的巧妇们，共同制作各式希腊馅饼。每一天这里都提供来 自不同地区的希腊馅饼，例如Pella的奶酪馅饼，Kastoria的蔬菜馅 饼和洋葱馅饼，来自特里克岛 kaltsounia的手工脆皮馅饼，Larissa 甜蜜南瓜馅饼和甜奶油馅饼等等。您可以选择外带，也可以在餐厅 橱窗对面的桌子上坐下，细细品味可爱精致的复古小碟中盛放的 美味馅饼。 （地址：Karagiorgi Servias 12-14，Syntagma；电话：210 3215373；网址：www.fillo-cafe.gr；地铁：Syntagma）

希腊炖菜，传统与丰盛

青豆秋葵烩菜、红酱汁烧公鸡、烤箱焖豆、羊肉煎饼以及烂炖兔肉， 这些都是希腊传统家庭菜肴，热腾腾的美味尤其适合在寒冷的冬 季食用。 如果您想品尝正宗希腊炖菜，感受希腊妈妈和祖母滋养 他们子孙的传统食物，就务必要选择简单美味的伊糕瑙牧家小酒 馆（地址：Troon 41 ＆ Kydantidon ， Ano Petralona；电话：2103467555；地铁：Petralona） ，餐厅历史可追溯至1930年，并在 1968年建立了第二家分店，位于Kolonaki地标性的Filippou，这 里的锅碗瓢盆正恭候您的大驾光临。 （地址：Xenokratous 19，Kolonaki；电话：210-7216390；地铁：Syntagma）

A cocktail Odyssey

At A For Athens, an ever-popular bar for both locals and tourists at the rooftop of the homonymous hotel where you can see the bustling Monastiraki Square and Plaka unfolding before your eyes,

A souvlaki shop called Elvis

For pita and gyro wraps in their traditional ensemble we will send you to Monastiraki Square; it is a stronghold. However, if you prefer an alternative version you might as well meet Elvis, a wonderful souvlaki shop with a modern wrapping and an aura of rock ‘n’ roll. Presley poses on the fridge as the pork or chicken kalamaki skewers and the kebab are all lined up on the grill. They are served with bread or pita (whole grain, corn and wheat) and extra crispy fried chips. No wonder the all night bar goers of the city centre give their late night appointment here. It is always on their mind, it is always on their mind. (Plataeon 29, Kerameikos, 210-3455836 - Metro: Kerameikos)

猫王苏乌拉肉饼店

想品尝希腊最传统的苏乌拉肉饼，体会皮塔饼与烤肉的完美结合， 那一定要去Monastiraki广场，这里是苏乌拉肉饼的圣地。当然，如 果您想尝试新奇独特的新式苏乌拉肉饼，那一定不要错过猫王。 与传统老式苏乌拉肉饼店不同，这里采用极具现代化的精美装饰， 散发着酷感十足的摇滚风。冰箱上摆满了猫王普雷斯利的照片， 旁边的烤架上整整齐齐地排列着猪肉、鸡肉烤串和香肠。您可以 选择搭配面包或皮塔饼（全谷物、玉米和小麦） ，以及格外焦脆的 炸薯条。对于市中心俱乐部常客来说，这里是他们午夜狂欢过后 的必经之处，冒着滋滋热气的苏格拉肉饼在他们的脑海中被深深 定格。 （地址：Plataeon 29，Kerameikos；电话：210-3455836；地 铁：Kerameikos）

Magirefta, traditional and hearty

Dishes such as green beans and okra, rooster in a red sauce, oven cooked beans, lamb fricassee and rabbit stew are Greek comfort foods with homely charms that warm the heart. If you want a taste of “magirefta”, the traditional food with which Greek mothers and grandmothers nourish their children and grandchildren, choose between the simple and delicious Taverna tou Oikonomou (Troon 41 & Kydantidon, Ano Petralona, 210-3467555 - Metro: Petralona) that carries on a tradition which started back in 1930 and always has its pots and pans ready to please, or at Filippou, a landmark establishment in Kolonaki since 1968. (Xenokratous 19, Kolonaki, 210-7216390 - Metro: Syntagma)

A FOR ATHENS 雅典之雅

the list of cocktails is... epic. One of the most talented Greek bartenders, Thodoris Pyrillos was inspired by Odysseus’ return journey to Ithaca for his recipes. The Stormy Martini with the Mediterranean touch is made with gin, fino sherry, whiskey and garnished with a bit of crithmum is simply excellent, but also try Circe’s Potion, a very interesting and wonderfully balanced clarified punch that is buttery and aromatic. (Miaouli 2-4, Monastiraki, 210-3244244, www.aforathens.com - Metro: Monastiraki)

奥德赛鸡尾酒

在雅典之雅酒店屋顶花园，坐落着一个极受当地人和游客喜欢的 酒吧，在这里，热闹繁华的Monastiraki广场和普拉卡老区美景尽 收眼底，令人应接不暇的鸡尾酒酒单更是如史诗般在您面前缓缓 展开。才华横溢的希腊调酒师Thodoris Pyrillos从奥德修斯返回 伊萨卡的故事中汲取灵感，由此创作出了一系列精美鸡尾酒：颇 有地中海风情的“风雨如荼马蒂尼”采用了杜松子酒、冰冻雪利和 威士忌酒，并以海茴香为点缀；一定要尝试“女巫喀耳刻的药剂” ， 这是一款巧妙融合了黄油口感与美妙芳香的奇特鸡尾酒。 （地 址：Miaouli 2-4，Monastiraki；电话：210-3244244；网址：www. aforathens.com；地铁：Monastiraki）

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Unbeatable view

After a walk filled with lots of greenery and archaeological monuments on Dionysiou Areopagitou, the large pedestrian walkway which embraces the rock of the Acropolis, a definitive must-stop should be made at Dionysos, either for coffee or food. Many significant international figures of the political, artistic and literary world have sat at the tables of this renowned restaurant, that is found in every single travel guide. Its cuisine is Greek with a contemporary touch, and the view to the sacred rock of the Acropolis and the Herodion truly takes your breath away. Be aware however, that reservations are a must. (Rovertou Galli 43, Acropolis, 210-9233182 www. dionysoszonars.gr - Metro: Acropolis) DIONYSOS ZONAR’S 酒神祖纳斯咖啡餐厅

ΣΕΡΣE ΛΑ ΦΑΜ (CHERCHEZ LA FEMME)

powdered with sugar). Depending on your preference, you can order your coffee “sketo” (without sugar), “metrio” (moderately sweet) or “gliko” (sweet), “vari” (strong) or “elafri” (light). (Mitropoleos 46, 2103222020, www.cherchezlafemme.gr - Metro: Syntagma / Monastiraki)

经典希腊咖啡

快速浓缩咖啡近年来在世界各地 席 卷 风 潮，雅 典 也 不 例 外，但 谈 到希腊咖啡，就跟快速没有任何关系了，根据希腊传统，在宁静 的清晨或午后来一杯希腊咖啡，缓慢悠闲地静静品味，优雅十 足。位于热闹繁华的Ermou购物街黄金地段，毗邻普拉卡老区 广场，这里坐落着一个迷人的怀旧城市咖啡厅Σερσε' Λα Φαμ ， 除了一系列经典美味开胃菜外，这里的主角是正宗传统希 腊 咖 啡，在 热 沙 罐 中 精 心 烘 制，并 搭 配 希 腊 小 甜 点 l o u ko u m i （一种裹着甜粉的果冻糖果） 。 根据喜好您可以选择“sketo” （无 糖） 、 “metrio” （中甜） 、 “gliko” （特甜） 、 “vari” （浓郁）或“elafri” （轻盈） 。 （地址：Mitropoleos 46；电话：210-3222020；网址：www. cherchezlafemme.gr；地铁：Syntagma /Monastiraki）

Stellar ingredients and local delicacies

Snails from Crete, tuna from Alonnisos and fava beans from Santorini, traditional pasta, herbs and spices, cheeses and cured meats, local wines and spirits... If you want delicious souvenirs from every corner of Greece, then the Yoleni’s Flagship Store in Kolonaki has infinite options. On the third floor of this flavourful multipurpose establishment, it is well worth exploring the only Athenian olive oil bar, where through interactive presentations and tastings you can find out all there is to know about olive oil, one of the most important national products. Make your reservations online. (Solonos 9, Kolonaki, 212-2223622, www. yolenis.com - Metro: Syntagma)

无与伦比的景致

绝佳原料与当地风味

沿着雅典卫城脚下平坦宽阔的Dionysiou Areopagitou人行大街， 克里特岛的蜗牛、Alonnisos地区的金枪鱼、圣托里尼岛的青豆、 穿过郁郁葱葱中掩映着的一座座考古纪念碑，您便来到了大名鼎 传统面食、各种香料、奶酪和腌制肉类、当地葡萄酒和烈酒等等。 鼎的酒神祖纳斯咖啡餐厅，这里提供咖啡和各种小吃。许多国际政 如果您想收集来自希腊每个角落的独特美味，那么位于Kolonaki 界、艺术界和文学领域的著名人士都在这家优雅精致的餐厅留下 区的有了你旗舰店绝对不容错过。旗舰店共有三层，店内充盈着 过身影，很多当地旅行指南对对此有所介绍。这里主打当代希腊美 各种食物和香料混合的芬芳，位于三楼的雅典橄榄油吧台尤其值 食，享用美味的同时您还可以感受雅典卫城帕特农神庙和狄奥尼 得一逛，这里经常有橄榄油演示和品尝，您可以在此了解到关于 索斯古剧场的神圣与古朴。需提前预约。 （地址：Rovertou Galli 43， 希腊最重要的招牌产品——橄榄油的所有信息。可网上进行预定。 Acropolis；电话：210-9233182；网址：www.dionysoszonars.gr； （地址：Solonos 9，Kolonaki；电话：212-2223622；网站：www. 地铁：Acropolis） yolenis.com；地铁：Syntagma）

Coffee as Greek as it gets

The quick espresso has been advancing throughout Athens as well as the rest of the world, but when it comes to Greek coffee, one should traditionally enjoy it leisurely, usually in the morning or early afternoon. Situated in a prime location behind the shopping street of Ermou and very close to Plaka, is a charmingly nostalgic urban cafe, Σερσέ Λα Φαμ (Cherchez la Femme). Apart from a range of delicious meze appetizers, it also serves coffee the old fashioned way, roasted in heated sand along with a loukoumi (a jelly candy

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ELEGANT TRAVEL

YOLENI’S

有了你旗舰店

FUNKY GOURMET 时尚美食

BOTRINI’S 鲍蒂尼餐厅

Michelin starred restaurants in Athens

FUNKY GOURMET** | Adventurous 雅典米其林星级餐厅 high gastronomy in a designer packaging in one of the city’s most distinctive restaurants. (Paramythias 13 & Salaminos, Kerameikos, 2105242727, www.funkygourmet.com -Metro: Metaxourgeio / Kerameikos) 时尚美食** | 雅典最具特色的高级餐厅之一为您提供别具一格 的精致美食。 （地址：Paramythias 13 & Salaminos, Kerameikos；电话：210-5242727；网址：www.funkygourmet.com；地 铁：Metaxourgeio / Kerameikos）

SPONDI ** | An emblematic restaurant in the Athenian gastronomic scene with a contemporary, elegant French cuisine.

(Pironos 5, Pagrati, 210 7564021, www.spondi.gr)

SPONDI 史邦迪

史邦迪** | 在雅典最具代表性的美食餐厅内享受现代优雅精致的法 国美食。 （地址：Pironos 5，Pagrati；电话：210 7564021；网址：www. spondi.gr）

BOTRINI’S * | Creative cuisine with excellent ingredients, character and technique. (Vasileos Georgiou B’ 24B, Chalandri, 210 6857323-4, www.botrinis.com)

伊德拉* | 极具创意的希腊美食就在奥纳西斯文化中心顶层。 （地 址：107-109 Sygrou Ave.，Neos Kosmos；电话：217 7071118；网 址：www.hytra.gr；地铁：Syngrou-Fix）

VAROULKO SEASIDE * | High standard seafood gastronomy in an elegant wooden deck washed by the sea. (Akti Koumoundourou 52, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, 210 5228400, www.varoulko.gr)

HYTRA * | Culinary arrangements with a creative Greek flair on the top of the Onassis Cultural Centre. (107-109 Sygrou Ave., Neos Kosmos, 217 7071118, www.hytra.gr - Metro: Syngrou-Fix)

鲍蒂尼餐厅* | 新鲜优质的原材料，高超娴熟的烹饪技术，独一无二 的创意美味。 （地址：Vasileos Georgiou B’24B，Chalandri；电话：210 6857323-4；网址：www.botrinis.com）

瓦卢告海鲜餐厅* | 在被海水冲刷的优雅别致木质甲板上尽享高品质 海鲜盛宴。 （地址：Akti Koumoundourou 52，Mikrolimano，Piraeus； 电话：210 5228400；网址：www.varoulko.gr）

VAROULKO SEASIDE 瓦卢告海鲜餐厅

HYTRA 伊德拉

ELEGANT TRAVEL

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TRAILBLAZER 开拓者

Theo Sarantoglou Lalis THE ARCHITECT OF GREEK DESCENT DESIGNS THE BUILDINGS OF THE FUTURE. 希腊血统建筑师倾情打造未来之家

O

ne of the most impressive houses in Finikounda of Messinia bears the signature of the head of the international architectural office, Lassa Architects.

“Villa Ypsilon” respects the Peloponnesian landscape with its olive trees, and becomes the subject of international admiration.

What are the main factors Lassa Architects focus on regarding a new project?

We see every project as an opportunity to investigate and respond meaningfully to contemporary issues whether environmental, social or cultural. In the past we researched new urban design strategies in emerging markets. Our projects range from high-rises and master planning in Asia, to villas that integrate with the Mediterranean landscape. Size or budget is less important to us than finding a productive synergy between an inspiring scenario and a client with vision which creates ideal conditions for creativity and innovation.

Where do the great design ideas come from?

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ELEGANT TRAVEL

伯罗奔尼撒半岛迈锡尼亚市芬尼库恩塔区坐落着希腊造型最独特 的建筑之一，这便是国际知名的建筑设计公司LASSA建筑事务所 代表性作品。 “叶普西松别墅”充分尊重了伯罗奔尼撒半岛独特的 橄榄树林风光，在国际上备受赞誉。 当启动一个新项目时，LASSA建筑事务所最关注哪些主要因素？ 在我们看来，每一个项目都是一个难得的机会，我们得以考察研究 诸多当下社会问题，如环境、社会和文化等并对此做出相应的积极 回应。以往我们在新兴市场调查研究了新型城市设计策略。 我们的 项目范围很广，从亚洲地区高层建筑与整体规划到与地中海景观 相互融合的私人别墅。相对于规模和预算，我们更看重在灵感创作 与客户需求之间找到完美的平衡，寻求两者最富有成效的协同作 用，为创新提供理想的条件。 伟大的设计理念源自何处？ 我们需要知道，当代设计是整个建筑历史发展 的一部分，这一点至关重要。从这个意义讲，一 个成功的建筑项目可以理解为通过使用尖端 THE YPSILON SHAPED SUMMER RESIDENCE & THEO SARANTOGLOU LALIS

叶普西松别墅 & 建筑师 Theo Sarantoglou Lalis

Portrait of Theo Lalis Sarantoglou by NA ARO Photos of Lassa Villa Ypsilon by Theo Sarantoglou Lalis

B Y D E S P O I N A S A M P S O N • 撰 稿：黛 丝 平 娜 · 桑 普 森

It is important to understand contemporary design as part of a long historical process. In that sense, a successful project can be understood as an accumulation of collective intelligence that is actualised in response to society through the use of cuttingedge technology. In our view great design ideas are the outcome of long-term investigations. It is important for us to maintain a consistent line between real projects and research.

What is the biggest challenge facing urban architecture today?

In recent years, following the collapse of the banking system, metropolitan areas have been largely affected by real estate speculation that is solely concerned with the maximisation of buildable areas. This has largely contributed to the homogenisation of space and a devaluation of public areas in the city. We think it is possible to create value through design by integrating experiential, social and environmental considerations in the conception of new urban environments.

Practically, you are based in London (and Brussels). Do you feel Greek at heart?

I was born and raised in France. My studies and work experience lead me to Brussels, London and New York; all of which have had a deep influence on my way of thinking. It is therefore very difficult to consider myself as being from one single place. So in that sense I feel deeply European. I do not have a nostalgia for Greece as I have never lived there, but I feel a very strong cultural affiliation to its inspiring history, its generous landscape and its cosmopolitan culture. And by that, I include half of the Greek population living abroad and other Hellenic cultures such as the Cypriots. In terms of our design culture at Lassa, the Mediterranean landscape, the diverse vernacular architecture of places, such as the Cyclades or the Peloponnese as well as archaeology, have been great sources of inspiration.

Name your favourite particular spot or place in Greece.

The Cyclades. My grandmother was from Naxos.

What makes you happy?

Architecture is a collective adventure. Working with extraordinary people on projects that value creative intelligence and the desire for change is a great source of fulfilment. All of this combined with excellent food and music of course.

技术实现的集体智慧的大积累。在我们看来，伟大的设计理念是长 期观察和研究的结果。由此，在实际项目和研究探索之间保持一致 的连贯性非常重要。 当今城市建筑面临的最大挑战是什么？ 近年来随着银行体系的崩溃，争取建筑面积最大化的房地产投机 主义对大都市造成了重大的影响，这很大程度上导致了城市的空 间同质化与公共区域的贬值。我们认为，通过足够丰富的经验，将 社会和环境因素进行整合并融入新城市设计规划中，可以最大程 度地创造价值。 实际上您主要在伦敦（以及布鲁塞尔）办公，您感受得到希腊吗？ 我在法国出生并长大，后来在布鲁塞尔、伦敦和纽约都有相关学 习和工作经历，所有这些城市都对我的思维方式产生了深刻的影 响。因此，我很难将自己视为某一个单一地方的产物。从这个意义 上讲，我更认为我是欧洲人。我对希腊并没有任何怀旧情绪，毕竟 我从未在那里生活过，然而，对于希腊灿烂悠久的历史、美丽迷人 的景观以及国际大都市文化，我感受到非常强烈的文化归属感。当 然，这里也包括一半的居住在国外的希腊人及希腊文化，如塞浦路 斯人。关于我们LASSA建筑事务所的设计理念，地中海景观独特的 建筑表现方式，如基克拉迪群岛、伯罗奔尼撒半岛甚至考古学，都 是我们创作灵感的伟大来源。 在希腊您最喜欢的城市或区域是什么？ 基克拉迪群岛，我的祖母来自纳克索斯岛。 什么让您感觉到快乐？ 建筑是一种集体的冒险活动，我非常享受与优秀人士合作，我们重 视创意和智慧，想要改变的欲望是实现项目的最重要动力。当然， 也包括美食与音乐。

LOCALLY SOURCED MATERIALS SUCH AS CONCRETE, TERRAZZO AND MARBLE

当地获取的原材料，如混凝 土、水磨石和大理石

GREAT VIEW FROM THE INSIDE OUT

内部和外部景观

ELEGANT TRAVEL

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LAST STOP 最后一站 B Y I O A N N A G K O M O U Z A • 撰 稿：伊 安 娜 • 古 木 札

MEGARON - THE ATHENS CONCERT HALL | 雅典音乐厅

Van Gogh

ALIVE IN ATHENS 梵高活在雅典

Anyone who has had the pleasure of seeing this exhibition at one of its 35 showings around the world, can talk of a captivating experience. Now that it is currently hosted at the Megaron - The Athens Concert Hall, do not miss this opportunity. The exhibition Van Gogh Alive - The Experience presents all the works of the great Dutch painter (3.000 paintings and drawings) by means of high-definition projections displayed throughout the space: on the walls, columns, even on the ceiling and floor! A one of a kind threedimensional representation accompanied by digital sounds, transfers us to the artist’s universe by revealing other aspects of the man himself and his body of work; the environment where he was inspired, the source of his stimuli and the way his pieces were completed.

(Megaron - The Athens Concert Hall, Μetro: Megaro Moussikis, until 5/3/2018)

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此展览曾在世界各地展出35次，任何有幸欣 赏过的人都认为这是一次难能可贵的宝贵体 验，目前正在著名的雅典音乐厅进行展出，千 万不要错过这个机会。展览《不朽的梵高—— 体验》展示了这位伟大的天才荷兰画家的所 有作品（共3000幅绘画作品） ，通过高清投影 将作品一一展示在整个空间，包括墙壁、廊 柱，甚至天花板和地板上！同时伴随数字背景 音乐，与图片和布景相融合，充分以三D立体 形式进行表现，让观众身临其境地感受画家 的精神世界，感悟画家所处在的环境，创作的 灵感来源及完成一幅幅不朽名画的方式，沉 浸于不朽名作的流光溢彩之中。 （雅典音乐厅，地铁：Megaro Moussikis，展 览直至2018年3月5日）

‘‘

DEFINING YOUR DREAMS CAN BE

DIFFICULT,

BUT THE JOURNEY TO REACH THEM

IS REWARDING. IT DEPICTS

WHO WE ARE.’’