Men's Folio Singapore September 2010 by PaperplaneCreative

september 2010 $6.80 incl. gst

AN OPPOSITION PARTY • Fall/Winter 2010 Menswear Guide • Marc Newson • Pierre Corthay • Rebels With & Without A Cause • Giulio Papi • Outlawed Fashion Retrospective

• Macho vs Nostalgic Watches • McLaren's New Supercar • The Art Of Being Anti-Social

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BOSS Orange Store Singapore 333A Orchard Road, #01-06, Mandarin Gallery T +65 6733 2880

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BOSS Orange Store Singapore 333A Orchard Road, #01-06, Mandarin Gallery T +65 6733 2880

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B2-29 THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS B1-03 TAK ASHIMAYA SHOPPING CENTRE B1-03 ION ORCHARD 01-202 VIVOCITY 02-13 PARAGON

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PROJECT MK-7584 SING MENS FOLIO BLEED 470MM (W) x 314MM (H)

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SCALE BUILT AT 100% OF ORIGINAL • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

ARMANI EXCHANGE 111 EIGHTH AVENUE NEW YORK NY 10011 CONTACT CHRISTINE LOPEZ 212.462.7306 | MELISSA DRAKE 212.488.4527 DESIGN PLEASE INITIAL AND DATE THE BOXES ABOVE

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CONTENTS VOICE 48 TEENAGE KICKS

MAGNET 52 X10:

Ten tales of subversion and rebellion

72 ESSENTIALS:

Hardwearing denim shines in solid and distressed treatments

76 ICON:

Fast facts on Prada’s luxury nylon

78 NEWS:

Lionel Messi signs up with Audemars Piguet, Louis Vuitton’s Beirut boutique, Gucci’s eco-drive and more

Volume transformed silhouettes and attitude at Dior Homme

MUSE

88 RUNWAY REPORT: THE POWER & THE GLORY

A to Z Fall menswear guide

CHARACTER: 134 DISCOMFORT ZONE Asian iconoclasts say no to conformity

150 A QUIET REVOLUTION

Dior Homme creative director Kris Van Assche on critics and staying calm

154 WHEN WORLDS COLLIDE Bally creative directors Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz prove that opposites attract

FRANCK MULLER BOUTIQUE SINGAPORE B1-19 THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS (65) 6634 8825 • 01-07 ION ORCHARD (65) 6509 3380 I KUALA LUMPUR KLCC SHOPPING CENTRE (603) 2166 2173 MELBOURNE 119 COLLINS STREET (613) 9650 0288 I JAKARTA PLAZA INDONESIA (6221) 310 7608 I BANGKOK SIAM PARAGON (662) 610 9423 AUTHORISED RETAILERS SINGAPORE SINCERE FINE WATCHES THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS (65) 6634 9782 • NGEE ANN CITY (65) 6733 0618 • LUCKY PLAZA (65) 6737 4593 • SUNTEC CITY (65) 6337 5150 • VIVOCITY (65) 6278 1698 SINCERE HAUTE HORLOGERIE HILTON SINGAPORE (65) 6738 9971 WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND PARAGON (65) 6732 9793 I KUALA LUMPUR SINCERE FINE WATCHES KLCC SHOPPING CENTRE (603) 2166 2181 • PAVILION KL (603) 2141 8418

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CONTENTS MUSE

FASHION: 156 KILLER INSTINCT

INSIGHT: 200 CRIMES OF FASHION

216 CARDINAL COMFORT

164 TOKYO AFFAIR

205 EASTERN PROMISES

218 HOW TO ... LEATHER

Dior Homme knocks out the competition with fastidious details

Rocking manga moments with Louis Vuitton

176 FUNKADELIC

Extreme party wear through the eyes of guest fashion editors Bobby Luo and Ritz Lim

184 CAMEL CHAMELEON

Brown and beige are the It colours for Fall

194 IN A SENTIMENTAL MOOD Crocodile jazzes up classic ensembles

Once outlawed, these fashion items have become indispensible

Ermenegildo Zegna professes its love for the Chinese market with its new Shanghai concept store

208 POPE ART

Inside Moreschi’s Vigevano shoemaking factory

212 NEXT BIG THING

A primer to the first wave of luxury boutiques at Marina Bay Sands

214 THE FRENCH CONNECTION

Personal relationships matter most in bespoke shoemaking, says Pierre Corthay

Remastered classics showed up at Alfred Dunhill

Local menswear debutant Frederic Sai believes comfort is key

The investment and care of luxurious hides

224 IT’S PERSONAL

David Au, chief marketing officer of Trinity Limited, dispenses tips on living it up in Europe

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CONTENTS MIX

Top wardrobe add-ons this September

FORM: 244 THE ANTI-HOOPLA

RENEW: 236 BLUE STREAK

246 SEA CHANGE

226 WEAR:

Chanel’s first men’s fragrance in 11 years is complex and unrestrained

238 PLANT POWER

Molton Brown fuses botanical extracts with modern technology in its new men’s-only range

240 ALPHA AESTHETICS Fuss-free grooming tips

242 AIR APPARENT Choice autumnal scents

Marc Newson doesn’t need one to understand him – just loving his products will do

Lebanese couturier to the stars Elie Saab designs a luxury yacht

248 VERACIOUS VETERAN Fame-eschewing designer for Giorgetti, Massimo Scolari, tells it like it is

250 BOOKISH REBELS Convention-busting bookshelves

DRIVE: 254 BEAUTY IN THE BEAST

McLaren’s latest supercar might not have the looks but it has got substance

Hermes focuses on quiet luxury this Fall

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CONTENTS MIX

TIME: 258 THE SECRET WEAPON

TECH: 274 PARANOID ANDROIDS

260 PRACTICAL MAGIC

SENSATIONS: 276 STAR GAZING

Watchmaker to countless of legendary brands Giulio Papi is happy to stay out of the limelight

A watch should be sporty or dressy, never both at once, opines Linde Werdelin

261 INNER SPACE

Fortis takes a break from space-age timepieces to cavort with artists and designers

262 PORTUGESE PAEAN

IWC banks on the legendary Portuguese for a rich harvest

263 YOU LOOKING AT ME? Chunky, hunky, ultra-tough watches

264 THE WONDER YEARS

Celebrating nostalgia with classical designs

Forget the iPhone 4, reliable Android phones are where it’s at

Michelin-star dining escapades in Hong Kong, Japan and Singapore

280 SPIRITS MOVE ME

COVER

BO LANG wears DIOR HOMME Pale grey cotton slim collar shirt, grey wool blend scarf collar jacket, grey wool coat, grey wool blend trousers *Spiked leather gloves customised by Bobby and Ritz from the Butter Factory Photography: Munster & Long Fei / T2 Pictures Styling: Kien Koh assisted by Weilun Grooming: May Tay using colours from M.A.C Cosmetics Hair: Daniel / Kim Robinson

Surprising finds for the best tipples in town

282 SCENE

Louis Vuitton Fall presentation in Tokyo, Ermenegildo Zegna Shanghai store, Gucci Timepieces celebrity fuelled launch and more

287 THE ART OF ... GOING IT ALONE Social manners are overrated

265 CHRONO-COPIA

This season’s most desirable chronographs

266 ROOKIE REIGN Smashing debut models

267 TWIST AND CLOUT

Proportion and dimension were reworked at Louis Vuitton

268 READY TO ROLL F1-inspired wrist statements

269 HANDLE WITH CARE Watch winders as home décor tips

270 CIRCADIAN SWINGERS Spice up wrist couture with interchangeable nylon straps

272 UMPIRE STATE OF MIND Chic and classy weekend watches

PARIS 2010 BACKSATGE PHOTOGRAPHY: FREDERIC ARANDA

Tourbillons with artistic edge

HERITAGE COLLECTION INSTRUMENT BR 03 42 mm VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm Natural Leather strap

Bell & Ross Boutique : 333A Orchard Road #01-15 Mandarin Gallery Singapore 238897 • Tel : (65) 6884 6471 • Fax : (65) 6884 6472 • bellross.mandaringallery@fjbenjamin.com www.bellross.com Available at: All Watches Wisma Atria Tel: 6733 2823 • Cortina Watch Ion Orchard Tel: 6509 9218 Millenia Walk Tel: 6339 1728 Rafﬂes City Tel: 6339 9185 • Dickson Watch & Jewellery Wisma Atria Tel: 6737 6451 • Sincere Fine Watches Lucky Plaza Tel: 6737 4593 Marina Bay Sands Tel: 6634 9782 Ngee Ann City Tel: 6733 0618 Suntec City Tel: 6337 5150 VivoCity Tel: 6278 1698 • Swiss Watch Gallery Resorts World Sentosa Tel: 6732 8022 • Watches of Switzerland Paragon Tel: 6732 9793 Tampines Mall Tel: 6783 6535 F J Benjamin Service Centre • 230 Orchard Road, #04-230 Faber House, Singapore 238854 • Service Centre: (65) 6736 3933 • Ofﬁce: (65) 6737 0155 • www.fjbenjamin.com

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TEAM Publisher/Editorial Director EDDY KOH Managing Editor ALVIN WONG Fashion Editor KIEN KOH Assistant Editor JOSHUA YAP Editor At Large MARC ALMAGRO Senior Writer WONG KEE SOON Features Writer ANDRE FROIS Assistant Stylist TOK WEI LUN Sales & Marketing Executive HUDA KARIM Marketing Coordinator KAI Sales & Marketing Consultant SHAWN ANG Art Directors GINA TOH HAN Graphic Designer JEREMY GOH Design Director YEE WAI FONG MEN’S FOLIO MICA (P) No. 041/01/2010 & ISSN 0219-0982 is a publication of HEART PUBLISHING PTE LTD 2 Alexandra Road #07-08 Delta House Singapore 159919

INTERNATIONAL EDITIONS MEN’S FOLIO MALAYSIA HEART MEDIA SDN BHD C10 2nd Floor Mail Box 334 Fahrenheit 88 (formerly known as KL Plaza) 179 Jalan Bukit Bintang 55100 Kuala Lumpur Malaysia Tel (603) 2148 9923 Email marketing@heartmedia.asia MEN’S FOLIO HONG KONG HEART MEDIA LIMITED Unit 2001 20th Floor 9-11 Leighton Road Causeway Bay Hong Kong Tel (852) 2573 9983 Email marketing@heartmedia.asia

Telephone (65) 6733 9931 Facsimile (65) 6733 5661 Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd No part of MEN’S FOLIO may be reproduced in any form or by any means without prior written consent from Heart Publishing Pte Ltd

MEN’S FOLIO INDONESIA PT. KINGPIN MEDIA PO Box 6169 JKUPL 1440 Tel +62 21 2555 4450 / 2555 4451 Email info@kingpinmedia.co.id

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Two-button jacket in wool seersucker. Cardigan in wool. Shirt in cotton poplin. Narrow trousers in wool and cashmere flannel. Liat Towers. Tel. 6738 9807. Takashimaya. Tel. 6735 5228. Hermes.com

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Two-button jacket in wool seersucker. Cardigan in wool. Shirt in cotton poplin. Narrow trousers in wool and cashmere flannel. Liat Towers. Tel. 6738 9807. Takashimaya. Tel. 6735 5228. Hermes.com

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CONTRIBUTORS

MUNSTER & LONG FEI, photographers Contribution: Cover/Killer Instinct/Camel Chameleon Munster: The last time I rebelled: When I skinned my head Long Fei: If I were to make a provocative fashion statement: I would put on my birthday suit

Munster

Long Fei

FREDERIC ARANDA, photographer

DJULIAN, photographer

MAY TAY, make-up artist

Contribution: Tokyo Affair The last time I rebelled: I did it with a smile

Contribution: In A Sentimental Mood If I were to make a provocative fashion statement: I would go get my hair cut

Contribution: Cover/Killer Instinct/Camel Chameleon/In A Sentimental Mood The last time I rebelled: I don’t rebel, i just make decisions that are not necessarily popular

VOICE

TEENAGE KICKS What did

you get up to when you were 13? Were you at war? Did you hate? Were you open to the world only to have its doors shut on you? What about curfews and noses? Broken any? Did you – truthfully now – feel like an outsider at 13?

Men’s Folio turns 13 this issue and we are feeling a little pissed off with the status quo. We have been searching for meaning but now we know – answers from the incumbents and powers-that-be are nothing but rules in disguise. So we seek out the ones who break them, and try and learn from them. As such, we are dedicating this issue – our new look, writing and attitude – to the outsiders. We are celebrating the subversive and disenchanted few who do things differently because they can and choose to. We also want to thank them for standing toe-to-toe against conformity on our behalf, even when their absolution becomes an albatross. This magazine sees a lot of itself in them – these game-changers, agitators, rebel-rousers, heat-seekers and instigators. Life, as we know it, will be very boring without them.

ALVIN WONG

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“WE DON’T NEED NO THOUGHT CONTROL” – PINK FLOYD

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Holy Wares RICARDO TISCI, RICK OWENS, TATSURO HORIKAWA Sacrilege to conservatives but a godsend for the fashion posse, some menswear designers are turning to religion for inspiration. This season, Givenchy’s Ricardo Tisci commandeered a clergy of models in shirts with clerical collars, T-shirts emblazoned with ‘Jesus is Lord’ slogans, and even fashioned crown of thorns as necklaces. Elsewhere, Tatsuro Horikawa of Julius offers a Gothic take on monastic tunics while Rick Owens, menswear’s latest cult figure, enhances his signature tailored looks with a hint of paganism. Although provocative, the looks are hardly as dangerous as the sight of Mahmoud Ahmadinejad in his seersucker jacket. KK

Tat sur o Horika wa

Ric ar do T

for Julius

R ic k O

wen s

is ci for G

iv enchy

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LI Wei PERFORMANCE ARTIST Beijing-based Li Wei toys with reality like a hooker with men at a singles bar. He teases his audience, leaves them wanting more, and makes them question reality. A performance artist, acrobat and illusionist rolled into one, Li Wei’s works depict him in seemingly gravity-defying situations as he ruminates on ‘dangerous realities’. There have been mock suicide attempts as he ‘jumps’ out of office skyscrapers and superhero fantasies as he ‘soars’ towards a damsel atop a tree. In this recent work entitled Luxury Take Away for the ArtHK festival 2010, he makes a statement on consumerism by bundling up Shanghai Tang’s Hong Kong boutique in fabric in order to ‘take off’ with the store. AW

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PHOTOGRAPHY: DJULIAN/THE PRIMARY STUDIO STYLING: WEILUN MODEL: VOJTA / UPFRONT

GIVENCHY White cotton shirt, black cotton shorts with hook front flap detail, MIHARAYASUHIRO Black and white cotton distressed leggings, HERMES Black leather belt, BALLY Black leather high cut boots, SPORTS B. Black thin leather bracelet, brown thin leather bracelet, black enamel ring

MEGGINGs If Rocky Balboa and Robin Hood can rock this look and still be revered as paragons of masculinity, there is no reason your heart ought to stop at the sight of meggings. That’s right, men’s leggings are in, they are not as sissy as you think, and they are here to stay for a bit. The look is championed by Givenchy, Moncler Gamme Bleu and Mihara Yasuhiro this season but the truth is that they have been around since 2007 when Marni and Calvin Klein first sent men in tights down their runways. Shock value aside, meggings are also practical for insulation against cold weather. KK

CLASSICAL AUDACITY

Tourbillon Force Constante à Chaîne

EVERY DEWITT IS BUILT BY A DEDICATED MASTER HOROLOGIST AND EACH INCLUDES AN AUDACIOUS TWIST ON THE CLASSICAL WATCHMAKERS ART.

WWW.DEWITT.CH

F J Benjamin Service Centre • 230 Orchard Road, #04-230 Faber House, Singapore 238854 • Service Centre: (65) 6736 3993 • Office: (65) 6737 0155 • www.fjbenjamin.com Available at: SINCERE FINE WATCHES Marina Bay Sands Tel: 6634 9782

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SPUN CHAIR The Spun Chair by Magis looks like a giant top, works like a rocking chair and lures out our inner brat for a giddy romp. Its hard for anyone around it to resist giving it a spin (pardon the pun) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; as was the case during its debut at the Salone Internazionale del Mobile 2010. Designed by Thomas Heatherwick, the maverick behind the UK Pavilion at the Shanghai World Expo, it shatters all preconceived notions of an armchair with a profile that allows users to rock from side to side or swivel 360 degrees. Not recommended for bender sessions. JY

PHOTOGRAPHY: MUNSTER AND LONG FEI/T2 PICTURES

Available at XTRA, Park Mall #01-01/#02-01 Tel: 6336 0688, www.xtra.com.sg

WW.TC Financial Global Stock Market Trading Times Pink gold case, Girard-Perregaux automatic mechanical movement, sapphire case back. World time with day/night indicator, chronograph, date, small seconds, global stock market trading times.

F J Benjamin Service Centre • 230 Orchard Road, #04-230 Faber House, Singapore 238854 • Service Centre: (65) 6508 7994 • Office: (65) 6508 7993 • www.fjbenjamin.com Available at all authorised retailers: CORTINA WATCH ESPACE Millenia Walk Tel: 6339 1728 CORTINA WATCH Paragon Tel: 6235 0084 Raffles City Tel: 6339 9185 SINCERE HAUTE HORLOGERIE Hilton Hotel Tel: 6738 9971 SINCERE FINE WATCHES Marina Bay Sands Tel: 6634 9782 Ngee Ann City Tel: 6733 0618 Suntec City Tel: 6337 5150 VivoCity Tel: 6278 1698 SWISS WATCH GALLERY Resorts World Sentosa Tel: 6732 8022

www.girard-perregaux.com

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Beat up B oots Rock ‘n’ rollers are a stickler for ‘character’ when it comes to dressing up (or down, depending on how you see it). It’s just not right, for example, if their jeans or Converses aren’t properly wornout, because signs of age and weariness signify depth of style and personality. This season, several designers offer boots that look so beat-up, we had to check with the retail staff for assurance that they are in fact brand new. Boasting distressed leathers and scruffy brushed-on effects, these examples from Dolce & Gabbana, Burberry Prorsum, Salvatore Ferragamo and Dr. Martens will take the work out of ‘seasoning’ the boots for a grungy style. However, try to keep the rest of your ensemble clean if you’re going to dive into a pair – people might get the wrong idea. KK

Salvatore Ferragamo

Dolce & Gabbana Burberry Prorsum

Dr. Martens

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HoroLOgical MACHINE NO ThunderBolt BY MB&F Rallying against the “bland and sad” state of contemporary luxury watchmaking, Maximilian Busser handpicked engineers, constructors and designers to form MB&F in 2005 that will create ‘horological machines’. MB&F’s new aviation-inspired creation, Thunderbolt, is another middle-finger wave at convention that again sees the company deconstructing watch mechanisms and matching them with audacious forms that are mindbogglingly difficult to construct. It is a punishment that Max gladly takes in the name of creativity. “I don’t believe in market demands,” he proclaims. Not that he needs to. Only 25 pieces of the Thunderbolt will be produced annually, and with MB&F’s reputation as coveted collectible, it is clear who has the upper hand now. AW Available at The Hour Glass

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Absinthe Absinthe’s allure as forbidden fruit hinges on claims of hallucination and temporary insanity resulting from inebriation. In truth, one will have better luck losing his mind watching back-to-back episodes of MTV’s Jersey Shore. The buzz one gets from imbibing the Green Fairy is more a result of its high alcohol content (up to 75 per cent) than its trace of psychoactive wormwood extract. Although we wouldn’t mind more of the latter, as law-abiding citizens, we recommend the wellbalanced absinthe from Vom-Fass which doesn’t mar its anise and fennel-flavoured bouquet with artificial additives. JY Available at Vom-Fass ION Orchard #04-25

PHOTOGRAPHY: MUNSTER/T2 PICTURES

FROM VOM-FASS

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BANNED BOOKS WEEK Time grants perspectives that make fools of naysayers. Throughout the history of the written word, attempts have been made to discredit books perceived to have kneed religion, politics and culture in the gonads. Literary classics that we take for granted, like Animal Farm, Grapes Of Wrath and The Catcher In The Rye, have once been victims of moralistic witch hunts. This year marks the 28th Banned Books Week (September 25 to October 2), a campaign started by famed American activist Judith King. To celebrate it, we reckon thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no better way to make a stand against senseless censorship than by enriching oneself with a defiant tome. WKS

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Nightvision ONLINE BOUTIQUE It isn’t hard to spot these emerging bands of superfreaks who’d burst into nightclubs like it was Halloween every weekend. And they look like they are having fun too – more than you or your sweat-soaked, T-shirted companion, for sure – demanding thrice-overs in their urban Carnivalstyle apparel bursting with psychedelic colours, anarchic silhouettes, and up-yours attitude with deliberate mixing and mismatching. We don’t really know where they are from, but we know where they shop: At www.nightvision-online.com, an online store touting extreme partywear from the likes of Cassette Playa, Bernhard Willhelm and Daniel Palillo as well as seasonal in-house creations. ‘F*** Trends, F*** Rules’, the website urges. It might be fun to do just that. AW

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Letter Openers When George W. Bush coined the phrase “war on terror”, we were sure he meant office politics and not Al Qaeda. After all, who doesn’t know a ‘terrorist’ lurking behind an office partition? Caesars, a weapons replica retailer, has a ‘WMD’ that elevates one’s corporate survival instincts. Made to look like WWII close-combat weaponry such as bayonets, daggers and knives, these letter openers are strictly to be used for slicing open envelopes despite their appearance. Don’t let your instincts tell you otherwise. WKS

PHOTOGRAPHY: MUNSTER/T2 PICTURES

Available at Caesars, Plaza Singapura #07-14 www.caesars.com.sg

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ESSENTIAL

WAY TO BLUE Rockers love them, cowboys swear by them and blue-collar workers cannot do without them. Once the paragon of modest fashion, hardwearing denim jeans make robust style statements this season in solid colours and distressed treatments ANTEBELLUM Maroon cotton short-sleeve shirt, BALLY Black cotton trench coat, BOSS ORANGE Dark denim jeans, CK JEWELRY Stainless steel chain bracelet, TOM FORD Amber optical frame

(TOP) BURBERRY PRORSUM Denim shirt, navy cotton jacket, A.P.C. Indigo New Standard denim jeans, tan leather weave belt, HERMES Black leather shoes with silver buckle, TOM FORD Black acetate optical frame (BOTTOM) RAF SIMONS X FRED PERRY Lime cotton mesh polo T-shirt, LOUIS VUITTON Grey Vienna cable wool sweater, black ultra-light padded nylon techno jacket, navy denim jeans, RADO Sintra Automatic Skeleton in high-tech ceramic, COSMIC WONDER* Gold plated cross necklace

(TOP) ANTEBELLUM White cotton shirt, BALLY Black lapin fur hooded vest, PRADA Beige wool jacket, BURBERRY LONDON Black Steadman denim jeans, HAMILTON JazzMaster Petite Second in stainless steel with black leather strap (RIGHT) GUCCI Grey wool turtleneck, blue velvet jacket, A.P.C. Indigo New Standard denim jeans, PRADA Maroon patent leather boots with flap, TOM FORD Silver optical frame

(TOP) PRADA Blue cotton shirt, black leather belt, HERMES Blue wool vest, grey wool jacket, silk print scarf, REDMOON* Mustard and tan leather drum bag, NUDIE JEANS* Black dry-coated slim denim jeans, GUCCI Black leather boots

ESSENTIAL

(BOTTOM) A.P.C. Blue cotton shirt with white collar, BALLY Beige cashmere cardigan, GUCCI Maroon suede leather jacket, FENDI Grey washed straight-cut denim jeans, PRADA Camouflage print briefcase, TODâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S Navy suede high-cut sneakers, TOM FORD Amber optical frame

(TOP) A.P.C. White linen scarf, BOSS ORANGE Olive soft leather hooded jacket, EVISU* Blue distressed straight-cut denim jeans, PIAGET Emperador Coussin Retrograde Seconds in 18K white gold with black alligator leather strap (LEFT) GUCCI Cashmere and silk print scarf, ALFRED DUNHILL Navy wool belted jacket, brown leather and wool gloves, A.P.C. Tan leather weave belt, CHEAP MONDAY* Pale blue distressed denim jeans, U-BOAT Classico A925 in sterling silver with calf brown leather strap with alligator lining

(RIGHT) A/X Pink cotton shirt, PRADA Brown wool cashmere sweater, IAMWHOIAM* Beige drawstring jacket, NUDIE JEANS* Black coated denim jeans, TOM FORD Silver optical frame

PHOTOGRAPHY: STEFAN KHOO STYLING: WEI LUN GROOMING: MAY TAY USING COLOURS FROM M.A.C COSMETICS HAIR: LEODRIC FROM JERIC HAIR SALON MODEL: DAVID H/ AVE

CHEAP MONDAY * Black cotton netted tank top, D&G Green cable knit wool sweater with detachable nylon hood, grey print denim jeans, green high-cut ski boots, GUCCI G-Timeless in stainless steel, TMOD JEWELRY* Silver hot stamp necklace

*REDMOON, NUDIE JEANS and CHEAP MONDAY are available at The Denim Store,#03-09, Mandarin Gallery, 333A Orchard Road TMOD JEWELRY is available at WoodWould, #03-24, Mandarin Gallery, 333A Orchard Road A.P.C, ANTEBELLUM, IAMWHOIAM and COSMIC WONDER are available at Front Row, #02-08, Raffles Arcade, 328 North Brigde Road. EVISU, TAG+JEANS and 7 FOR ALL MANKIND are available at Bread & Butter, #01-10, Mandarin Gallery, 333A Orchard Road

(TOP) PRADA Brown and white camouflage print cotton shirt, LOUIS VUITTON Light grey wool cable knit jumper, GUCCI Maroon suede belt, TAG+JEANS Blue washed and distressed denim jeans

ICON

PRADA NYLON A light and durable fabric trusted by campers and military men, nylon has never looked as moneyed as it does in the hands of Prada TEXT: WONG KEE SOON

The official

name for Prada’s nylon is Pocone, which is derived from the military-grade black nylon first used as Miuccia Prada’s grandfather’s steamer trunk cover.

Despite making its debut in 1978 in a range of backpacks and totes, Pocone achieved fame only in 1985 as a Prada signature with the classic black nylon tote.

Today, Prada has expanded its use of nylon to outerwear and accessories in seasonal collections, appearing as scarves, jackets, pullovers, coats and shoes.

Prada uses a special chassis to create the ultra-thin nylon fibres that are subsequently woven on looms using a twisting technique.

In Fall/Winter 2010, Prada shifts from conventional shades of navy and black to adventurous camouflage prints for its messenger bags, backpacks and totes. “I wanted to do something that was nearly impossible, (which is) to make nylon luxurious,” said Miuccia Prada. After a quarter of a century, the Pocone bag range remains one of Prada’s best sellers.

PHOTOGRAPHY: LONG FEI / T2 PICTURES

NEWS

2 1. KICK OFF Audemars Piguet has signed on Argentinian footballer Lionel Messi as its latest ambassador. The current World Player of the Year is known for his sublime skills on the pitch and his humble attitude off it. This partnership aims to develop several social projects over the coming years in aid of their respective charitable foundations.

2. BOLLYWOOD MAGIC At this year’s Venice International Film Festival, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Glory To The Filmmaker Award was presented to Indian director Mani Ratnam, whose lavish productions have revolutionised Indian cinema with the introduction of the auteur concept to modern Bollywood.

3. TRIPLE THREAT Maurice Lacroix, in cooperation with Wallpaper* magazine, held an online charity auction in May for three uniquely designed Pontos Décentrique GMT timepieces. The limited edition watches were reinterpreted by French furniture designer Gwenaël Nicolas, English fashion designer Neil Barrett and Israeli contemporary artist/designer Arik Levy.

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4 4. BODY SHOP Prada transformed the intimate interior of the Garage Shop, an arts and culture bookshop in Moscow, into a faux antique library for a three-day launch of its 708-page coffee-table book. The space was furnished with a wallpaper of old books, Chesterfield sofas and furniture constructed with the Prada Book.

5. OPEN HOUSE Louis Vuitton opens its first boutique in Lebanon in the upscale district of Beirut. The opening in July was graced by Prime Minister Saad Hariri, who was treated to local art installations in addition to coveted wares by the French label. 1479/Marfaa, Beirut Souks Fakhri Bey, Allenby Street

6. DOUBLE HORIZON Officine Panerai opened two new boutiques in Hong Kongâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Canton Road and the Shanghai International Finance Centre. The store openings mark a concerted effort by the Florence-based brand to woo the increasingly affluent Chinese market. 2 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon L1-16, Shanghai IFC, 8 Century Avenue, Lujiazui, Pudong

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8 7. SPIRITED MIX Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana toast the 20th anniversary of their menswear collection with the classic James Bond drink. Partnering vermouth label Martini, the duo launched a cobranded cocktail that will be served in Martini Bars within their Milan and Shanghai boutiques.

8. PAINT JOB Salvatore Ferragamo has recreated pop art icon Andy Warhol’s paint-splattered brown leather brogues which he wore while working in his studios in the 1980s. Created as part of Ferregamo’s Creations line, the re-released shoes include identical polymer paint details as the original. Interestingly, this is the only men’s footwear design created by the Italian shoemaker himself.

9. GREEN ZONE Gucci goes green by replacing glossy shopping bags with brown beater-dyed paper, and substituting ribbon and polyester garment bags with cotton ones. Other green moves include the use of polystyrene mannequins, online catalogues and energy saving programme in retail stores.

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10. TECH TALK Burberryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s digital dominance in fashion chalks up another first with an interactive platform where users manipulate videos and images of the cast and products as well as control views and perspectives of its Fall/Winter advertising campaign online. Visit www.burberry.com

11. PEAKING TOM Tommy Hilfiger is launching Tommy in October, a diffusion line for his younger customers. The collection will adopt refreshing looks and handmade details that shift from the preppy styles of its main line.

12. COACH CRED Ralph Lauren, the official outfitter of Wimbledon, expands its credentials off the tennis court with the launch of Legends Clinic, an online interactive portal. Fans get to chat and trade tips in real-time with tennis icons such as Boris Becker and Venus Williams. Visit www.legendsclinic.com

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13. GLASS WEAR Lacoste partners Chinese contemporary artist Li Xiaofeng to design a polo shirt and a porcelain variant made of 317 broken shards. Limited to 20,000 pieces, the ‘wearable’ cotton version is fashioned after a digitally photographed collage of ancient porcelain fragments depicting the baby boomer period of the Qing dynasty’s Kangxi era.

14. SWEDE START Swedish marque Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair opens its first standalone store outside Stockholm at Hilton Shopping Gallery. Expect products that meld traditional and experitmental aesthetics by designers Lee Cotter and Astrid Olsson who are known for their classic tailoring and pattern-making techniques. #02-13/14 Hilton Shopping Gallery

15. MILLE TIME Richard Mille moves into its new loft in Grand Hotel Kempinski, located on Quai de Mont Blanc in Geneva. Unique additions to the boutique include an in-house watchmaking workspace and a dedicated VIP lounge. Grand Hotel Kempinski Quai du Mont Blanc 19, 1201 Geneva

TEXT: WONG KEE SOON

“LIKE A BIRD ON A WIRE LIKE A DRUNK IN A MIDNIGHT CHOIR I HAVE TRIED IN MY WAY TO BE FREE” – LEONARD COHEN

muse

RUNWAY REPORT

The Power The Glory & Classics become modern, colours turn camel and testosterone levels bubble over for menswear this Fall/Winter 2010 TEXT: KIEN KOH

ALFRED DUNHILL Old-school-lover Kim Jones, Alfred Dunhill’s creative designer, looks to Clement Court for inspiration this season. Responsible for establishing dunhill’s French presence during the 1920s, Court’s adventurous spirit must have rubbed off as Kim infuses functional sportswear elements to the Brit label for the modern-day explorer.

RUNWAY REPORT

BALLY For his swan song collection, creative director Brian Atwood updated iconic Bally designs like a 1950â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ski boot and the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature stripes with black-on-black version. Wardrobe evergreens crisp white shirts, cashmere trousers and cardigans lend polish to outdoorsy coats and jackets.

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BALENCIAGA Sportswear-inspired styles are a major trend for Fall and Balenciaga is at its forefront. From puffy down jackets, cropped blousons and hooded coats, chief designer Nicolas Ghesquiere serves them up in top-grade fabrics and lends a functional twist to versatile pieces that can be worn two ways.

BOTTEGA VENETA Leather-clad bikers and coiffed Teddy boys rev up the Italian labelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s conventionally soft aesthetic. Skinny leather pants worn with zip blousons and boots, boxy and cropped double-breasted blazers paired with cuffed denims and thick-soled leather lace-ups accentuate a rebellious vibe.

DIVE MASTER 500 BLACK ICE CHRONO Swiss-made quartz chronograph movement • Allows one second short time measurement up to 12 hours • Central 60-second and 60-minute counters • 43 mm stainless steel case (316L) with Black Ice PVD coating • Ultra-strong case construction with its 3 mm thick sapphire crystal • Unidirectional rotating bezel with 20-minute luminescent indicator • Protected screw-down crown and pushers • Screw-in caseback • Water resistant to 500 meters (50 ATM, 1,650 feet) • Scratch-resistant, triple-coated anti-reﬂective sapphire crystal • Luminescent oversized hands and hour markers • Swiss-made genuine rubber strap • 3-year warranty • Ref. 241422 • Retail price S$1,499

Inspired by the ingenuity of the Original Swiss Army Knife, your companion for life.

F J B E N JA MI N S E RV I C E C E N T R E 2 3 0 O R C H A R D R O A D #04-230 FAB ER HO USE SING APO R E 238854

10_636 VSA Dive Master 500 Chrono Men Folio Sep10 FPFC_v2_.indd 1 Job No: L0710-244/3184 1st Proof Title: VSA Dive Master 500 Chrono Men Folio Sep10

www.victorinoxswissarmy.com

TEL : (65) 6736 3933

FAX: ( 65) 6735 3349

www. f jbenjamin. com

7/29/10 10:04:38 AM

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BURBERRY PRORSUM Christopher Bailey salutes the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heritage in outerwear with military elegance. His platoon of desirable coats from cropped utilitarian to shearling-trimmed double-collar aviator styles and double-breasted guises are right on target.

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BOSS BLACK The Boss Black muse for Fall could very well be a modern-day Clark Kent. Banker collar shirts, three-piece suits and square-shouldered jackets make a visually striking silhouette that is all boardroom prowess.

BOSS SELECTION Connoisseurs of luxury will make a beeline for Boss Selection - the creme de la crĂ¨me of the Boss family - and its impeccable, snug-fitting suits cut from patterned fabrics, and timeless outerwear pieces.

U-BOAT FEATURE

FORMULA Get stoked this F1 season with U-Boat’s third instalment of its pentalogy of special edition timepieces that hail the pulse-racing night race with gritty black guises and superlative makes

RUSH F1 Edition 2 (2009)

F1 Edition 3 (2010) F1 Edition 1 (2008)

A five-part legacy in the making, U-Boat’s Singapore F1 Limited Edition collection has been feting the excitement of the Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix since its inauguration in 2008. Limited to 35 pieces per edition, the collection hits its halfway mark this year as the Italian watchmaker presents possibly its best looking tribute to the races to date. Making an exhilarating departure from the customised Classico models of the first two editions, U-Boat F1 Edition 3 is a dashing overhauled version of the brand’s beloved Flightdeck chronograph. Signalling its affiliations with the race with an outline of the Marina Bay street circuit on the small seconds sub-dial, the national flag on its minute hand and fiery red accents on its dial, it is built like a high-performance machine with a 50mm grade 2 titanium case housing a Top Soigne automatic chronograph movement. ($7,280) Loyalists who already own the first two U-Boat F1 editions will be entitled to a handsome leather collector’s edition box worth $1,180 with any purchase of the F1 Edition 3. Covered in top grade Italian black or brown leather, it comes fitted with five watch slots and is the perfect domicile for the entire collection when the series is completed in 2012.

RUNWAY REPORT

BOSS ORANGE The rocker-tinged nonchalance of this collection comes from versatile and wearable pieces in streamlined shapes. Untucked shirts are worn with semi-formal blazers while slouchy knit cardigans and sweaters, distressed denim and plenty of throwon scarves accentuate the just-out-of-bed vibe.

D&G

D&Gâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sexually expressive alpha jock is headed for the slopes. Underscoring this vibe are Mickey and Minnie Mouse print T-shirts, sporty padded jackets, padded boots and oversized knit gloves.

RUNWAY REPORT

CANALI Canali expresses sharp Italian tailoring in greys and blacks, and works with layered looks in warm autumn tones, and luxurious fabrics with geometric patterns and creative weaves.

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DOLCE & GABBANA

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana celebrate 20 years in menswear in surprisingly understated style. Their muse is the archetypical working-class Sicilian male and his wardrobe of coarse, tattered knits, distressed jackets and three-piece suits in dusty and sun-bleached neutrals for daywear. Evening looks comprise tailored black velvet and double-breasted suits in relaxed cuts, often worn without ties.

W A T C H E S THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS, UNIT #B2-78 ION ORCHARD, UNIT #B1-26 RAFFLES CITY SHOPPING CENTRE, UNIT #01-31 LADIES‘ ACCESSORIES DEPARTMENT, LEVEL 1, TAKASHIMAYA DEPARTMENT STORE WWW.THOMASSABO.COM

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DSQUARED

Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared 2 transport us to the ice hockey rinks of Canada. From menacing prints of hockey masks to â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;blood-stainedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; sportswear-inspired track jackets and sweatshirts, the Caten twins are feeling uncharacteristically aggressive and dangerous.

DRIES VAN NOTEN Belgian menswear luminary Dries van Noten keeps his trademark elegance, adding punch to shirts and blazers with swathes of contrasting printed fabrics and clashing hues.

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DIOR HOMME Creative director Kris van Asscheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s statements in quiet elegance come in unfettered, fluid silhouettes cut from ultra-luxurious fabrics. An edge with raw finishes and exposed lining draw attention to the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s atelier workmanship.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Ermenegildo Zegna may have turned 100 this year but its vision remains fresh. This season, it paints the collection with nature-inspired blue, green and grey that are built on impeccable tailoring, as well as re-issues its first in-house fabric to extol its fabric-making legacy.

RUNWAY REPORT

EMPORIO ARMANI Fusing advanced fabric technology with exquisite tailoring, Emporio Armaniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s slim-fit collection feels young, trendy and polished. Stand-out designs include knits with structural 3D textures, fitted Matrix-esque leather coats and blazers lined with shiny zippers.

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ETRO The undisputed king of paisley prints and punchy colours, Kean Etro delivers a low-key collection of muted prints in mustard, eggplant and olive green. Focusing on fabrics, Kean shows quilted nylon and leather jackets alongside knits with intricate motifs and formal trousers with elastic cuffs.

GIVENCHY Ricardo Tisci plays the religion card with a monochromatic collection of cassock-inspired white shirts and hooded coats, worn mostly with skinny pants and leggings. Keeping the faith on casual Fridays and weekends are T-shirts with â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Jesus is Lordâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; emblazoned across the chest.

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GUCCI Frida Giannini takes us back to the groovy 1970s, pairing the camel-hued collection with cuffed pants or fine-gauge turtlenecks; she also celebrates the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s legacy with iconic Gucci motifs on bags and accessories.

RUNWAY REPORT

GIORGIO ARMANI Envisioning a ‘Romantic Future’, this season’s collection is a run-down of Armani’s greatest hits such as his signature fluid shapes and the use of rich, heavy materials like wool and leathers.

HUGO Progressive designs don’t necessarily scream for attention as Hugo shows. Its left field sensibility shines through casual track jackets that pair sporty jersey fabrics with knit sleeves, as well as pixilated renditions of traditional winter knit patterns.

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HERMES Veronique Nichanianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye for detail is evinced on jacket linings in the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic orange and her use of top-flight suede and leathers.

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JIL SANDER Raf Simons’s quirky fabric patches adorn Fall classics like coats, sweaters and jackets, while a sombre and sophisticated palette keeps Jil Sander’s minimalist spirit alive.

PAUL SMITH Paul Smith employs purple and turquoise to lend sophistication to sombre blacks and greys. Ethnic handicraft motifs find their way on scarves and shirt plackets.

Round-1 Back In Time Singapore commemorative edition Limited edition of 45 pieces

AZIMUTH

fabriqué en suisse

AVANT-GARDE COMPLICATIONS

www.azimuthwatch.com SINGAPORE EXCLUSIVE BOUTIQUES: Mandarin Gallery Orchard Road #02-20 T +65 6736 1766 Marina Bay Sands 2 Bayfront Avenue, #B1-87 AUTHORISED RETAILERS: BEZEL Raffles City Shopping Centre T +65 6333 5833 KRASNAYA The Watch Art Gallery, ION Orchard #B3-03 SINGAPORE HEAD OFFICE & SERVICE CENTRE: 52 Taman Warna T +65 6557 0057

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RUNWAY REPORT

LOUIS VUITTON Paul Helbers does a fantastic job injecting city influences into contemporary formal attire. Calling this collection â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Bleisureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, a mix of business and leisure apparel, he recommends untucked shirts worn with ties, or sports jackets layered over business wear.

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PRADA Prada goes against Fallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sobriety. Transposing pastels and camouflage prints on slim-cuts, the collection is subtle and wearable, comprising items like cropped knit sweaters and coats with fur-trimmed double-roll collars.

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RAOUL For Fall, Raoulâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eschews embellishments. First to go are ties and collars. Classics are refined with trimmer and shorter traditional cuts on double-breasted jackets as well as knits with deep V-neck collars.

INFO: 65-6533 8480 • 02-07-223 2898

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RALPH LAUREN Ralph Laurenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Purple Label ups the craftsmanship ante with hand-stitching and exquisite lining that recall Savile Row tailoring. Whether on preppy club jackets with striking purple trim and crest or formal paddock coats, silhouettes are kept trim despite pronounced shoulders. Minimalism and classicism rule the Black Label. Brown, olive and wine tones are applied to sportswear-influenced designs. Preps will be enamoured with Polo Ralph Laurenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quirky play on patterns and pairing of modern classic pieces with heritage-influenced designs.

U n c o m p r o m i s e d

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RICK OWENS Rick Owens ascends the luxury ladder by allowing tailoring virtues and luxurious fabrics to take centre stage in a collection replete with hermetical cloaks and autumnal furs.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Massimiliano Giornetti showcases finesse in gorgeous knitted coats, suede blousons trimmed with fur, oversized mufflers and opulent evening jackets in rich jewel hues.

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SINCE 1979

CMY

THE JOURNEY GOES ON...

BOOMERANG COLLECTION

Characterized by distinction. This new collection combined form and functionality to make frequent travels comfortable and easy. Eminent has created the Boomerang Series that symbolises swift movement, with its light-weight, toughness and its four-wheels 360 degree system. This chic modern luggage sure to catch the eye of all travellers.

RUNWAY REPORT

Z ZEGNA Alessandro Sartori exposes the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;technical frameworkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; of his designs by deconstructing jackets and coats, and adding grid patterns on knitwear and fabric patchwork for visual impact.

FOLIO~SEPT ISSUE

ANDRE ZIEHE

2xist.com b.h.g . i s e t a n . m e t r o . r o b i n s o n s . t a n g s . t a k a s h i m a y a

RUNWAY REPORT

ZEGNA SPORT Zegna Sport proposes a versatile â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;technical sportswearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; range that works just as well as leisurewear with innovative fabrics made from recycled polyester and water-repellent leather forming the core of the collection.

YVES SAINT LAURENT Stefano Pilati ventures into androgyny with pleated shirts, low-cut vests and fringes. Toying with contrasts and proportions, he pairs cropped blazers or streamlines coats with drapey loose-cut pants.

CHARACTER

DISCOMFORT ZONE They don’t do safe or normal – meet some of this region’s most courageous iconoclasts

CHARACTER

KIRBY LIAN Singapore Tat2 Show Founder TEXT: ALVIN WONG PORTRAIT: MAURICE LEE / MAURICE COLOR BOX

One has

no idea how cool a Japanese Prosperity Cat looks until he sees it on a tattoo by Shigenori Iwasakai. Kirby Lian owns one – a complex work in foliage green accentuated with vibrant red and yellow blanketing his left forearm – and he shows it off with pride. “Having a tattoo by Shige is a milestone for me as he is one of the greatest contemporary tattoo artists,” says the 38-year-old. Kirby’s other favourite is a portrait of his personal hero, Han Dynasty war strategist Zhuge Liang, on his right calf. But he says getting tattooed these days means much more than just inking inspired designs. “When I get a tattoo, it is like going to class – I want to see how the artist works and what I can learn from him.” That’s why Kirby’s back remains clean; he says he wouldn’t be able to observe the tattooist if the artist were standing behind.

Although Kirby started in the business only in his late-20s, his enthusiasm puts younger practitioners in the shade. After opening his tattoo studio Utopia in 2001, he felt that there was a bigger itch waiting to be scratched – create a platform for tattooists around the world to share ideas, and educate the public on the much maligned art form. In 2009, Kirby staged the Singapore Tat2 Show, a three-day tattoo convention which attracted almost 15,000 enthusiasts. This year, Kirby injected greater star quality into the lineup by inviting the likes of Chris Garver from Miami Ink and Matt Booth, a renowned custom jewellery maker, for workshops and talks. That an international tattoo convention has been successfully staged in immaculate Singapore is not lost on Kirby, who reveals that governmental bodies approved the event without much fuss. Encouraged by the response, Kirby intends to devote more time to organising such events as he makes the leap from artist to entrepreneur. “Conventions are a great way for young tattooists to learn as they mingle with the best. Hopefully we will also be able to produce great tattoo artists this way,” he enthuses. When that happens, perhaps Kirby may be convinced to have his back inked without so much as a sideway glance.

“When I get a tattoo, it is like going to class – I want to see how the artist works and what I can learn from him”

CHARACTER

ALVIN LYE & CHRISTOPHER LONG Azimuth Watch Company TEXT: WONG KEE SOON PORTRAIT: MUNSTER & LONG FEI / T2 PICTURES

Azimuth Watch Company is like the Manny Pacquiao of the watch world – Asian-born, diminutive and packed with potent punches that can floor larger opponents. A young horological enterprise founded by Singaporeans Alvin Lye and Christopher Long in 2004, Azimuth has been sucker punched with copyright lawsuits and name-calling by insular Swiss watch brands. Each time though, fuelled by its founders’ bring-it-on war cry, the company has dusted off the attacks to emerge triumphant. “We’ve also been called ‘s***’,” says Christopher, the more reticent of the duo, who adds that such comments only served to spur them on. In fact, Alvin takes pleasure in the fact that the bigger brands have taken notice of their “small operation”. “It shows that we are doing something right and they feel threatened by us,” he chuckles while Christopher nods in agreement.

“We have balls and we believe in what we do”

Christopher met Alvin when he was a 17-year-old purchasing vintage watches at Alvin’s pre-owned watch retail store. Bonding over their love for Swiss horology, both men decided to make their own watches after deciding that their ideas were just as good, if not better, than some of those hawked by the Swiss. “Creativity is borderless,” says Alvin. But he also recalls getting plenty of flak for their nationality when the company started. “People would go, ‘Who do these guys think they are?’ We even had difficulty buying components for our watches and we were often stood up by suppliers.” Alvin admits the watch industry is tough but he adds pointedly that he and Christopher are no pushovers. “We have balls and we believe in what we do,” he says. Today, the tables have turned. Alvin reveals the same suppliers who once turned them down are calling them up, eager to do business. Meanwhile, Azimuth watches, produced in its own Swiss factory in Bien, are distributed to 18 countries and have an annual production of 2,000 pieces. The company is also close to inking a deal to develop exclusive movements for a Russian brand. When asked if they feel any animosity towards the brands that tried to discredit them, Alvin and Christopher say they are actually all about the love. “We got into this business because we love watches and wish to share our passion,” explains Alvin. “In future, we are even looking at working with schools for educational programmes to inculcate a love for horology among the youth.” Clearly, the boys at Azimuth have bigger fish to fry.

Christopher Long (L) and Alvin Lye

CHARACTER

ALVIN LEUNG JR. Owner, Bo Innovation TEXT: WONG KEE SOON PORTRAIT: VAN HAI

Alvin Leung Jr. is an agitator in the Chinese fine-dining scene and he tells you so quickly. He steps into his Wan Chai restaurant in Hong Kong in a black T-shirt, Ed Hardy trousers and Louis Vuitton flip-flops. Jade earrings peek from under his blonde-streaked ironic mullet, while conspicuous tan lines on his arms suggests that he must have been either hard at work under the sun, or freshly back from a beach holiday. The London-born chef makes no apologies for his appearance. In fact, the straight shooter prefers it this way, “It’s not because I’m lazy, but I’m not the sort to spend 30 minutes to dress up.” Whatever the look, the food still tastes great – Michelin-star great. In 2009, his restaurant Bo Innovation was awarded two Michelin stars. Although the rating has been downgraded to one star this year, Alvin shrugs it off as a small career blip.

Utilising his forte in molecular gastronomy, Alvin deconstructs traditional Chinese dishes into edible works of art “People said that I’m going to shoot myself for this. But why would I want to? There are always pressures in being a chef, period.” he grins. Since 2003, the 49-year-old’s fine-dining establishment has hosted celebrities, chefs and critics who have been won over by avant-garde Chinese recipes, which Alvin calls “X-treme Chinese cuisine”. Utilising his forte in molecular gastronomy, Alvin deconstructs traditional Chinese dishes into edible works of art. For example, his version of xiao long bao (soup dumpling) is a liquid gel served on a porcelain spoon – created by a guy who claims he learnt his skills from watching cooking programmes and reading cookbooks. Four years ago, Alvin gave himself the nickname ‘demon chef’, and it has stuck since. He uses it as his designation on name cards and wears it as a tattoo on his arm. Cutting an imposing figure at the restaurant, he certainly looks the part. Fastidiously attended to by his staff during the course of this interview, an employee rushes to light his cigar, while another serves his daily dose of caffeine, one of seven cups he has a day. “My staff fears me out of respect,” he says candidly, “and not because I’m going to hit them if they do something wrong. Well, at least, I can’t anyway.”

CHARACTER

CHRIS B

Founder, The Underground TEXT: WONG KEE SOON PORTRAIT: SAMSON POON

Punks, metal

heads, indie shoe-gazers, emo rockers – if you were in an alternative band in Hong Kong and feeling rather disenfranchised by the city’s Twins-loving Cantopop culture, we’ve got a name for you – Chris B. Avocado-lover, avid bookworm and admirer of tall men, at least according to her MySpace profile, Chris is revered as a godmother of the country’s independent music scene who showers love on unsigned acts by giving them a chance to shine at The Underground, a live music platform she established seven years ago. “Most people don’t give local bands a chance, yet they claim there’s no good music in Hong Kong or Macau,” says the half-Chinese, half-English rocker. Hitting the bars of Central and Wan Chai with a roster of bands that plays “funky, punky, jazzy, heavy or downright ugly” music, Chris says over 300 unsigned acts have performed under The Underground banner with over 120 live shows to date. Having started as a one-girl show, The Underground now includes a motley crew of passionate part-timers who help put together explosive shows up to three nights a month. Fancy a band playing Edison Chen covers, heavy metal-style, while wearing Edison Chen masks and gyrating their hips? Then mark an Underground event on your social calendar. For Chris, an Underground night represents what rock music is all about – being original, loud, and not giving two hoots about what the mainstream thinks. A barometer of cool in tight fuchsia tee and blue denims, Chris flies the freak flag proudly. The former stage manager for Debbie Harry displays a feistiness that rivals that of any music promoter in the region – only with twice as much heart. Counting about 15 bands on the waiting list to perform at an Underground event each month, she bats unabashedly for the underdogs. But she also has her conditions. “I pick bands that people should look out for as well as the less experienced ones – but only if they are good enough.”

Chris B is revered as the godmother of Hong Kong’s independent music scene

CHARACTER

EDMUND BON

Human rights advocate, chairperson of Constitutional Law Committee of the Malaysian Bar Council TEXT: JASON KWONG PORTRAIT: SHAWN LOR / BLINK STUDIO

If you

are a young lawyer in Malaysia, here’s how not to put your career in jeopardy: 1) Do not defend alleged Islamic extremists for free; and 2) do not question the authority on human rights issues. But if you believe in truth and justice, Edmund Bon has a message for you: “Cliched as it sounds, lawyers are supposed to uphold justice without fear or favour.” And Edmund walks the talk. He has defended alleged Jemaah Islamiya (JI) and the Malaysian Mujahideen Group (KMM) members detained under Malaysia’s Internal Security Act (ISA). He has also been arrested in 2007 for preventing local authorities from removing banners championing human rights from the Bar Council premises during International Human Rights Day. As two-term chairperson of the Bar Council’s Human Rights Committee (Bon’s second term ended last year), he believes in fighting for the good cause, even when it hurts for him to do so. “Too often, lawyers are blinded by fear or the pursuit of monetary gains that we forget our calling,” he says.

Called to London’s prestigious Lincoln’s Inn, 36-yearold Edmund is also counsel for high profile cases such as the Perak constitutional crises, as well as Anwar Ibrahim’s second sodomy trial. “We lost many times in court due to the thorny nature of the cases we affiliate with, but the adrenaline from possibly setting precedents and making a change keeps me going,” he explains. Determined to bring more power to the people, Edmund has been ruffling more feathers lately with what he calls a “blawg” (law blog) in LoyarBurok. He says the online resource aims to empower Malaysians by enlightening them on the country’s complex legal system, and serve as platform for activists to express their views and inspire others to do the same. “I hope the blawg creates awareness that will eventually stem the tide of cronyism, nepotism and authoritarianism,” he says.

“Too often, lawyers are blinded by fear or the pursuit of monetary gains that we forget our calling”

CHARACTER

NAZREEM ZAINUL Owner & Creative Director, MUSA Fashion & Cafe TEXT: JASON KWONG PORTRAIT: SHAWN LOR / BLINK STUDIO

Put The Cure’s Robert Smith, k.d. lang and Tristan, the character played by Brad Pitt from Interview With The Vampire, in a blender and you’d get fashion entrepreneur Nazreem Zainul. With flowing locks framing a gender-bending mien and an ensemble comprising a loose-fitting printed top, denim jacket, white cropped pants and black leather boots, the 21-year-old looks like he has just stepped off the stage of a Tokio Hotel gig. Needless to say, more than a few cursory glances were cast his way during this interview. “I want to stand out and fashion certainly helps my cause,” he says. “I don’t commit to one style. In my books, anything is possible.” Nazreem’s gungho approach to fashion isn’t confined to his dress sense. Equally bold with business decisions, the former dancer had just opened MUSA at Avenue K, a multi-brand boutique in Kuala Lumpur stocking international cult labels early this year.

While mass-market, multi-brand boutiques are not new to the city, MUSA’s upscale offerings devoted to menswear are a first. The store’s off-kilter cast includes House of Holland, Supreme Being, Naked & Famous, Cheap Monday and Jean-Baptiste Rautureau – expensive, edgy stuff that one would probably find in a hip, word-of-mouth boutique in downtown Tokyo. “We’ve been playing it safe for far too long,” explains Nazreem of his store’s eclectic selection. “Fashion is a great way for expression, so why not take advantage of it?” Despite championing non-conformism, Nazreem says he is not looking to convert anyone. Rather, he hopes to inspire others to follow their instincts when it comes to fashion. “At MUSA, it’s really all about individualism,” he reiterates.

“I don’t commit to one style. In my books, anything is possible”

CHARACTER

WEE MENG CHEE Singer / songwriter, filmmaker TEXT: BRIAN CHEONG PORTRAIT: SHAWN LOR / BLINK STUDIO

Never mind

that his self-penned Negarakuku, which lampoons Malaysia’s national anthem with expletives and hip-hop beat, will go down in infamy as a YouTube hit. Wee Meng Chee, aka Namawee, a budding songsmith and auteur, is actually quite a nice guy. Despite his vitriolic online music videos, Meng Chee does not come across as someone with a chip on his shoulder. The 27-year-old is soft-spoken and pleasant to a fault, flashing boyish smiles and greeting everyone politely with hardly a hint of the rude gestures or furious tirades synonymous to his music videos. His mother would have been proud, which leaves us almost disappointed. Meng Chee believes that his bad boy rapper image may be grossly overblown. “To tell you the truth, less than five per cent of my songs (he has written over 500) are hip-hop,” he explains. “Most of what the public knows about me is from YouTube. The website is supposed to be about fun, and I only want to share the fun stuff.”

Rather, Meng Chee is a country-loving muso at heart, with ambitions stretching beyond an online sensation. He reveals that plans for his first CD will be released by Prodigee Media and features new songs as well as older stuff such as his first YouTube hit, Muar’s Mandarin, a heartfelt tribute to his hometown. He is also starting production on his debut film, which he will script, direct and star in. “Why do you think I made all those music videos? They were my training for the big one,” he says. And trust him to pick a hot potato for ‘the big one’; Meng Chee says that the movie will present his views on the hotly debated 1 Malaysia social integration campaign. Fans will be pleased to know that he is retaining the raw honesty that defines most of his works, but it will not, apparently, be too provocative. “FINAS (National Film Development Corporation Malaysia) has already approved the script,” he says.

“Most of what the public knows about me is from YouTube. The website is supposed to be about fun, and I only want to share the fun stuff”

CHARACTER

A QUIET REVOLUTION Dior Homme creative helmsman Kris van Assche tells Kien Koh that it’s not the industry pundits he’s designing for

CHARACTER

Backstage at

Dior Homme’s fall runway show in Paris, creative director Kris van Assche is a picture of calm amid a whirlwind of activity. While one spots an occasional streak of nervousness flashing across his face, Kris never shouts or gesticulates wildly. Instead, he is a picture of grace as he goes about outfitting his models. At our post-show interview at the Dior showroom, a slight tension lingers in the air. Kris doesn’t grant interviews very often, his publicist reminds me. And it is hard to begrudge him – after all, scrutiny on the Belgian designer has been intense since he took over from the much venerated Hedi Slimane three years ago. Unlike Hedi’s skinny heroin chic apparel, Kris’ creations defy convention but do not scream for attention. They are made for men who appreciate great tailoring and progressive design. The Dior Homme suit, for instance, was known for a severely tapered silhouette under Hedi’s reign. Kris’ version, in contrast, hangs a little looser with a focus on tailoring details like the exposed lining fabric. The accents are quiet but no less impactful – and are very much, as this writer discovers, a reflection of the designer himself.

On critics and reviews “ I’m e q u a l l y a f f e c t e d b y g o o d a n d bad rev iew s but w hat ’s more important is succeeding as a designer in my own terms.”

On professional success “The ability to develop my own aesthetic language would be the pinnacle of success to me. As to what this language is, I’m still in the process of developing it. Many established fashion houses today had 50 to 60 years of experience before crafting their signature look.”

Street style “Clothes are eventually worn on the streets so it’s only natural that I draw influences from people out there. My personal style is a mix of creativity, functionality and comfort. I wouldn’t design anything I won’t personally wear. I try the pieces on myself sometimes to see if they work.”

A penchant for fluid, languid silhouettes, organic drapes and folds, and the prolific use of raw edges that contrast with luxurious fabrics and atelier workmanship underscore Kris’ aesthetic blueprint

The changing face of menswear Bending menswear’s rules “Menswear is interesting because there are not that many short-cuts one can take as a designer. You can’t cheat in menswear. There are codes to follow that some designers find it limiting. For me, the more rules there are, the more fun it is to break them. I usually start with a structure, say of a blazer, and then deconstruct from there to create new propositions.”

Dior Homme, post-Hedi Slimane “My work at Dior Homme has made it easier for more men to relate to the brand. You can say I pulled the brand out of its niche.”

Raised in what he terms as a very proper family, where good manners and dressing appropriately were always observed, one could interpret Kris van Assche’s subversive designs as a reaction to his straight-laced upbringing

BACKSTAGE PHOTOGRAPHY: FREDERIC ARANDA

“Menswear has changed a lot over a short period of time. Men are paying more attention to fashion and are no longer afraid to express themselves. This has led to more diversified looks. My approach with Dior Homme is to make sure that creativity, comfort and quality co-exist in the brand.”

CHARACTER

WHEN WORLDS COLLIDE Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz might look and behave differently, but their shared love for quality and distinction is just what a newly reinvigorated Bally is after TEXT: KIEN KOH PORTRAIT: FREDERIC ARANDA

The cliche

about partnerships is that the successful ones are built on extremes. Opposites, it is often believed, attract; and while usually fraught with creative tension, unlikely unions can and often result in greatness. British fashion designers Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz, while probably as averse to stereotypes as anyone in their industry, are living proof of that. Michael is chatty and vivacious while Graeme is shy and soft-spoken. Even their heights – Michael’s diminutive, Graeme’s lanky – seem to allude to their different personalities. The men met seven years ago while working at Aquascutum where Michael was head of womenswear and Graeme of menswear. While their partnership was not as deliberate as, say, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, they worked with such cohesion that when Bally came knocking, it had to be on the doors of both men or not at all. Bally is aware that Michael and Graeme are experts at making the old new and relevant. After all, both men have, in their time with 157-year-old Aquascutum, deftly escaped the long shadow cast by the brand’s history of royal warrants and transformed it into a sharp, modern label favoured by Brett Anderson and Gisele Bundchen. Given the void created by Christopher Atwood, Bally’s previous creative director who set the 159-year-old Swiss label on course for modernity, Michael and Graeme’s appointment as the brand’s new creative directors in April this year is much welcome news. Graeme says they hope to “focus on what Bally is all about” by concentrating on its shoes and bags. More importantly, he adds, they want “to convey a sense of youth and energy”. As the men share a common love for bespoke tailoring, elegant lines and fabric innovation, their debut collections, due in Fall 2011, will be keenly anticipated.

Bally’s Makeover

Getting Inspired

Michael (M): “Our friends think of Bally as their father’s brand. We want to make it desirable to our generation and create things that we would want to wear or carry. It could be a backpack you can take to the Glastonbury music festival.”

M: “I get inspired most when I’m in bed, even though I don’t get to spend a lot of time there these days. My father was also a great source of inspiration. He was very chic and always wore a tie, a black suit, very polished shoes, a Rolex and signet ring. He would drink his whiskey from a crystal tumbler and smoke with an ashtray in his hand – never out on the streets. It was never about the brands he wore either, but about someone doing something the right way.” G: “I always looked up to Steve McQueen and Gary Cooper because they had their unique look. It was about the way they wore the clothes.”

No Fear M: “We’re not afraid that the direction we’re taking will alienate Bally’s older and more conservative customers. A designer should never be afraid of following his vision because that limits growth and creativity. It’s only through creativity that one progresses and makes modern, relevant statements.”

Past Shaping Present Graeme (G): “We’re big fans of vintage stuff and we’ve gone back to the Bally archives to search for ideas. We saw a pair of brogues from 1941 which inspired one of S/S10 collection’s signature shoes. We took the design of its upper and interpreted it as a bowling shoe-meetsfootball sneaker hybrid that one can wear easily and kick off at the end of the day. We’re great believers of function before style.”

Opposites Attract G: “Our personal styles aren’t necessarily similar to that of Bally’s but they are complementary. Obviously we’ve been ‘Bally-fied’ now but we have to find a way to merge the brand’s aesthetics without feeling embarrassed by our own creations.”

“We’re big fans of vintage stuff and we’ve gone back to the Bally archives to search for ideas”

Graeme Fidler (L) and Michael Herz

Killer

Instinct Every street corner turned, every move you make, everything you wear â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Dior Homme stalks each detail with devilish interest

PHOTOGRAPHY Munster & Long Fei/T2 Pictures STYLING Kien Koh assisted by Weilun GROOMING MAY TAY USING COLOURS FROM M.A.C COSMETICS HAIR DANIEL/KIM ROBINSON MODELS BO LANG/CARRIES

Dior Homme

WHITE COTTON SLIM COLLAR SHIRT, BLACK COTTON RAW EDGE SKINNY TIE, BLACK WOOL SUIT WITH RAW EDGE SLIM LAPEL, BLACK LEATHER CLUTCH

Dior Homme

WHITE COTTON SLIM COLLAR SHIRT, BLACK COTTON RAW EDGE SKINNY TIE, BLACK WOOL RAW EDGE SLIM LAPEL JACKET

Dior Homme

DARK BROWN COTTON RAISED COLLAR SHIRT, GREY COTTON TWO-BUTTON STRIPED JACKET, GREY UN-LINED COTTON TRENCH COAT, GREY COTTON STRIPED PANTS WITH UNFINISHED HEM, BLACK LAMBSKIN BAG

Dior Homme

GREY COTTON STRIPED PANTS WITH UNFINISHED HEM, BLACK LEATHER ANKLE BOOTS, BLACK LAMBSKIN BAG

Dior Homme

BLACK COTTON SMALL COLLAR SHIRT, BLACK WOOL TROUSERS, BLACK SHEARLING SPLIT-COLLAR JACKET, BLACK LEATHER SLING BAG

Dior Homme

BLACK COTTON SLIM COLLAR SHIRT, BLACK WOOL TWO-BUTTON ASYMMETRICAL JACKET WITH LEATHER FLAP, BLACK LEATHER CLUTCH, BLACK ACETATE SHADES

Dior Homme

BLACK COTTON SLIM COLLAR SHIRT, BLACK WOOL TWO-BUTTON ASYMMETRICAL JACKET WITH LEATHER FLAP, BLACK WOOL PANTS WITH SMALL TURN-UP, BLACK LEATHER LACE-UP SHOES, BLACK LEATHER CLUTCH, BLACK ACETATE SHADES

Dior Homme

WHITE COTTON SHIRT, BLACK WOOL BLEND ASYMMETRICAL SUIT WITH SCARF COLLAR, BLACK COTTON JACKET WITH SASH, BLACK WOOL COAT, BLACK LEATHER ANKLE BOOTS

Dior Homme

OLIVE WOOL SLEEVELESS SPLIT COLLAR TUNIC AND MATCHING CARDIGAN, BLACK WOOL TWO-BUTTON SUIT

Tokyo Affai

Love takes on different shapes, shades and attitudes in pulsating Tokyo. Louis Vuitton spreads affection with roguish charm

PHOTOGRAPHY: Frederic Aranda STYLING & ART DIRECTION : Kien Koh assisted by Kei Chen / Friday A. HAIR & MAKE-UP : Chieko Ishizuka/Signo PRODUCTION : Mari Murakami / Friday A. MODELS : Eduardo / Evivva, Princess Macaron, Asami, Izu Kure, Alvin Chan Locations courtesy of Two Rooms grill & bar, Amour and LeBaron

Lo uis Vu it ton Grey brushed wool and cashmere tweed double-breasted coat, black cashmere rollneck sweater, black cashmere canvas pants, tweed and lambskin gloves, cashmere and silk print scarf, black leather boots

Lo uis Vu it ton

Dark brown shearling bonded lambskin blouson, black rib-stitch merino sweater, grey cotton atelier shirt, black felt and cashmere jersey pants, brown leather studded boots, Tambour GMT watch in black steel with black rubber strap, Neo Sporty monogram hexagon leather bag

Lo uis Vu it ton White striped cotton poplin strap shirt, black cashmere canvas pants, silk print tie, Speedy Duojet GMT watch in steel with black alligator strap, Macassar monogram backpack, Shades stylist â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own

Lo uis Vu it ton Black waterproof nylon anorak, black cashmere canvas pants, black leather boots, cashmere and silk monogram print scarf

Lo uis Vu it ton

Grey reversible wool, tweed and nylon trench coat, black bias-cut cashmere V-neck sweater, black wool and mohair Vienne pants, grey silk scarf, two-tone canvas tote

Louis Vuitton

D ark grey wool fil-a-fil double-breasted jacket with wool inserts, black merino and cashmere sweater, dark grey wool pants, dark brown leather boots

Louis Vuitton

Dark brown merino knit bonded lambskin biker jacket, grey merino wool rib-stitch V-neck sweater, grey cotton gabardine pants, brown suede and leather sneakers, Neo Greenwich Naxos leather carry-all

Louis Vuitton Camel cashmere double-breasted coat, black mohair jacket, black cashmere sweater, black mohair pants, black leather shoes

Louis Vuitton

Black rib-stitch merino turtleneck, silk print scarf, black flannel wool pants, black leather lace-ups

Louis Vuitton Double-face

cashmere shawl collar jacket with leather lining, washed silk and satin shirt, washed cotton satin five-pocket denim pants, black leather boots

GUEST FASHION EDITORS: Bobby Luo and Ritz Lim PHOTOGRAPHY: Jeff Chen / Calibre STYLING: Kien Koh assisted by Weilun GROOMING AND HAIR: Larry Yeo using 4VOO Skincare for men and Redken hair products MODELS: Brandon / Upfront and Edward Gunawan / NEXT Location Courtesy of The Butter Factory, One Fullerton.

Funkadelic! fancy a trip disco is the wwithout the d guest fashio ay to go, say rugs? Fantas founders Bon editors, But this issueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s y bby Luo and ter Factory Ritz Lim

JA MAA* X PRADA MAKIN MAKIN JA MA* BURBERRY PRORSUM KATY EARY*

On Edward (left): Black cotton T-shirt, Argyle print nylon trench coat, / Red denim jeans. Blue cotton check On Brandon (right): Olive wool trench coat, jumpsuit, Gold marching hat, gold skeletal sandals, gold skeletal bracelet (worn as necklace)

KTZ * TRUE RELIGION * katy eary * projects*

GUCCILYRICS 4 LYRICS JEREMY SCOTT by linda farrow

Denim Space Column print jacket, Leopard print kangaroo fur jacket, Blue denim slim-cut jeans, * Lego Chanel logo chain, Gold skeletal bracelet, tortoise shell ‘TV optical’ sunglasses

EVISU CK CALVIN KLEIN* KATY EARY DVCOU2RE* GUCCI

Graphic print cotton T-shirt, Maroon cotton jacket with Red PVC shredded shorts, matching pants, Wire mask eyewear, antenna head piece, silver studded torture mask (worn as necklace), Maroon leather bag with signature stripes

DVCOU2RE MAKINBURBERRY JA MA BRIT PRORSUM BURBERRY On Edward: * Black cotton distressed T-shirt, black leather vest, * Multicolour BITS racer vest , Grey washed denim jeans, Black leather boots

LOUISEVISU VUITTON KATY EARY ANDROID HOMME DVCOU2RE

On Brandon: Metallic tweed jacket, Cotton * print T-shirt , Gold shorts with embossed print, beige skeleton print leggings, gold marching * hat, Grey suede high-cut sneakers, * Gold ball chain

KTZ AX DVCOU2RE WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK by linda farrow projects

On Brandon: * Black cotton Strawberry / Monster T-shirt, Grey and blue print nylon hooded sweater, * Green plastic visor (on shoulder),

Green acetate sunglasses with interchangeable lenses

HOMMEDIOR AX KTZ* MARTENSDR. On Edward:

Black linen shirt with frayed / Black seams, cotton hooded sweater with sequins, Metallic pink synthetic leather shorts, White leather high-cut boots with blue soles

KTZ* JIL SANDERDVCOU2RE ANDROID* HOMME* EVISUDR. MARTENSBOSS ORANGE DVCOU2RE*

On Brandon: Yellow cotton pullover, white down jacket, Metallic blue Zhora trousers, Blue Gold studded eyewear. and grey high-cut sneakers, Black cotton pullover, Pale On Edward: White leather high-cut boots green cotton jacket, Lime green nylon straps, green cotton with green soles, tube shorts, gold beaded eyewear

*Makin ja ma, KTZ, DVCOU2RE, Katy Eary, Lyrics 4 Lyrics, Jeremy Scott by Linda Farrow Projects and Walter Van beirendonck by Linda Farrow Projects are available at www.nightvision-online.com *Android Homme is available at Limited Edt Chamber, #B2-23, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Avenue

PRADA Camel wool suit,

CANAL I

Grey silk mustard trim

Camel

C hameleon Cozy brown and beige add sophis sophistication and warmth to Fallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sombre palette

PHOTO GR A PH Y :

C A NA L I Nav y wool pinstriped suit, GUCCI Camel

cashmere turtleneck pullover, light brown leather boston bag with canvas stripe, BALLY Brown leather brog ue boots DUN H I L L Amber acetate optical frame, ETRO Grey wool printed scarf

L OUIS V UITTON Camel wool coat, A STON B L A K E

White cotton pin striped shirt, F R ANCK MULLER Cintree Curvex in rose gold with brown leather strap DUNHILL Black acetate shades

print T-shirt, nylon multimilitary leather jacket with

Blue cotton striped

leather horse-bit loafers

GUCCI Brown corduroy

blouson, brown suede and wool long-sleeve cardigan,

BURBERRY LON D O N Brown cashmere classic checked scarf

A S TON B LA K E Biege cotton shirt with inverse floral print sleeve, Beige madras check scarf, Mustard cotton

GUCCI Beige cotton

riding pants, brown suede belt, PRADA Beige wool doubleroll collar jacket, blue cotton shirt, DOLCE & GABANNA Grey wool knit sweater, HERMES Light grey suede ankle boots

In A Sentimental Mood Crocodile hits a jazzy groove and free-styles with timeless classics PHOTOGRAPHY: Djulian assisted by Jovian/The Primany Studio STYLING: Weilun GROOMING: May Tay using colours from M.A.C HAIR: Leoric from Jeric Hair Salon MODEL: Vojta/Upfront

CROCODILE Blue cotton shirt, navy silk tie, navy cotton twobutton suit, white cotton striped pocket square

CROCODILE Red plaid cotton shirt, black cotton and silk vest

CROCODILE White cotton tuxedo shirt, black silk bow tie, black cotton tuxedo jacket

CROCODILE White cotton shirt with detachable plaid front, black leather jacket, black cotton pants

FRANCO ALBINI*

*Luisa chair by Franco Albini available at SPACE Furniture, Millenia walk, 9 Raffles Boulevard

Black Luisa chair

CROCODILE Black cotton shirt, black cotton two-button suit, black patent leather lace-up shoes

CROCODILE Brown cotton checked shirt, dark brown cotton jacket, red silk tie

Julius A/W 2010

INSIGHT

CRIMES OF FASHION What becomes a legend most? Try outlawed outfits TEXT: LI HAOHAN

Brooklyn politician

Eric Adams’ US$20,000 campaign against low-slung jeans tosses yet another garment to the infamous heap of clothing that authorities have deemed inappropriate. But he may have unwittingly helped extend the trend’s popularity. Similar campaigns in the past merely drew attention to the article in question, immediately transforming it into a statement piece and then a requisite fashion item. Let’s rifle through the cast-off bin:

dunhill

LEATHER JACKET PROVENANCE:

Aviation and motoring made leather jackets ubiquitous in the early 20th century, but the modern version as we know it was introduced in the 1940s as part of military uniform. Strength, durability and practicality – think aerodynamic design and multiple zip pockets, the latter an invention of American manufacturer Schott – are common among all styles, while details like tab collar (biker) or shearling lining (bomber) are specific to intended usage.

Z Zegna

TRANSITION: In the eyes of authorities, however, they mean trouble – a perception stirred up by youth delinquency in 1950s USA, when it was banned from the school system, and bike gang violence in the late 1960s.

REBOOT: By the time The Fonz wore one in Happy Days, leather jacket was a short-hand for cool. By now a classic, it reappears on the runway regularly.

FAMOUSLY WORN BY: Outsiders Marlon Brando, James Dean, Elvis, Indiana Jones, Wolverine Tommy Hilfiger

James Dean

INSIGHT

THE ZOOT SUIT PROVENANCE:

A roomy, exaggerated silhouette defines the zoot suit comprising a pair of high-waisted, wide-legged and tight-cuffed trousers and a long coat with wide lapels and padded shoulders. It was popular among Latin immigrants in the US, particularly the Mexicans, and jazz musicians in the late 1930s and 1940s.

TRANSITION: The LA murder of a young Latino fuelled tension between Mexican-Americans and some members of the US Navy eventually erupting into a string of clashes that became known as the Zoot Suit Riots in 1943. Mexican-Americans and their sympathisers were mostly zoot-suited, prompting official ban on the garment.

REBOOT: Zoots resurfaced briefly on MTV in the 1990s but did not survive for long, but its baggy profile and flamboyant details continue to influence designers today.

FAMOUSLY WORN BY: Flashy fops Prince and The Revolution, Jim Carrey in The Mask, Lou Bega, Jane Lynch in Glee

Bottega Veneta Doir Homme

Kurt Cobain

STEEL-TOED DOC MARTENS PROVENANCE:

Dr Klaus Maertens designed a pair of the boots for himself in 1945 after injuring his foot while skiing. Made with car tyre and cushioned with air, his invention caught on and the brand was eventually launched. Today, there’s a DM for every occasion in different colours, finishes and styles. Raf Simons x Dr Martens 8 eye black and russet burgundy boot

TRANSITION: Steel-toed Doc Martens are closely associated with late 1960s youth group Skinheads comprising working class English boys and Jamaican immigrants who sported close-cropped hair. The bi-racial group ironically degenerated into a racist gang; white supremacists and football hooligans were among those identified with it. Its uniform of stovepipe jeans, suspenders and DMs were eventually banned from clubs.

REBOOT: As ska, the skinhead’s music of choice, became popular throughout the world, its fans appropriated the skinhead look – without irony. Celebrities have also taken to wearing DMs.

FAMOUSLY WORN BY: Sid Vicious, Pete Townshend, Kurt Cobain, the Pope

Dr Martens iconic 8 eye boot

INSIGHT

Givenchy

Dsquared 2

HOODIES

PROVENANCE: Although the hood has been part of monastic and cold weather garments throughout the world – from monks’ cowl robe to hooded riding cape – the hooded jacket we know today likely begot its shape and construction from the Siberian deerskin parka. Intended as protection from harsh weather, its fabrication evolved to include zipfront and pullover styles.

Fred Perry

TRANSITION: To avoid detection by omnipresent surveillance cameras, hooligans, thugs and criminals hide their faces in hoods of jackets. In some high crime urban areas hoodies are often prohibited.

REBOOT: Designers have taken out weatherproofing from a hoodie’s multiple tasks. The all year wearable comes in sleeveless styles, some in gossamer fabrics, for summer.

FAMOUSLY WORN BY: Eminem (sports hoodie), Missy Elliott (sleeveless), Rihanna (boxer’s hoodie robe)

Tommy Hilfiger

Eminem

INSIGHT

EASTERN PROMISES

Ermenegildo Zegna sets its sights on the Chinese market with a new Shanghai concept store designed by Peter Marino TEXT: BRIAN CHEONG

It says

An elegant environment complements the bespoke service on the second floor

a lot about the ambitions of Ermenegildo Zegna when the Italian label saw it opportune to celebrate its 100th anniversary in Shanghai with a new store. Clearly, the brand’s double-digit growth last year, with significant input from sales in China, has a part to play. But this is no whirlwind courtship – Zegna was one of the first international luxury labels to open a boutique in China with a Beijing store in 1991. Today, it boasts 57 stores in the country – or 75, if one includes Hong Kong and Macau. Already plans are underway for more Zegna concept stores in Shenzhen, Hangzhou and Chengdu by the end of this year. Zegna’s latest crown jewel is in Shanghai, the first boutique in China designed by acclaimed architect Peter Marino. Situated at Lippo Plaza along Huaihai Road, it is a stunning retail haven spanning 726-sqm and two stories. This is Zegna’s largest store in Asia, and it stocks all of its brands (including Ermenegildo Zegna, Z Zegna, Zegna Sport, and the bespoke line) in distinctive sections identified by different shades of wood. “This is definitely a store for discerning customers looking for something special,” quips chairman Paolo Zegna, visibly pleased with the way the boutique has turned out.

Ermenegildo Zegna global concept store in Lippo Plaza, Shanghai

INSIGHT

(From left) Paolo, Anna and Ermenegildo (Guido) Zegna

Zegna was one of the first international luxury labels to open a boutique in China with a Beijing store in 1991

Peter, who designed its other global concept stores in Dubai and Tokyo, says the Shanghai boutique takes inspiration from the Lanificio Zegna wool mill in Trivero. He spent weeks researching there and decided on a collage of references to espouse Zegna’s expertise in fabrication. For instance, the store’s sandblasted glass exterior evokes the pinstripes on Zegna fabrics while the stair railings feature criss-crossing stainless steel rods inspired by weaves. Having designed concept stores for Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton, Peter says he felt ecstatic when asked to design Zegna’s concept stores two years ago. “It’s a historic brand known for the unrivalled quality of its woven textiles. Naturally, I used this imagery throughout (the store design),” says the 60-year-old, a longtime Zegna fan. As pleased as he is with the store, Paolo knows that it is what goes on inside that ultimately matters. “We want to impart a personal experience, whether through being fitted for a made-to-measure suit or being pampered by respectful and sincere service. It’s a new Zegna but with the foundations of the company firmly in place.”

Beyond the entrance is an accessories section stocking bags, ties, shoes, as well as the limited edition centennial watch

The bright and breezy Zegna Sport section

INSIGHT

POPE ART

Over 1,000 pairs of shoes march out of Moreschi’s Vigevano factory each day. CEO Mario Moreschi takes Men’s Folio on a tour, highlighting the artisanship and machinery that famously put a spring in Pope Benedict’s step TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHY: KIEN KOH

About 300 specialists work at various manufacturing points such as cutting, hand-sewing, lasting and finishing

Mario is deeply involved in the design process. Here, he shares upcoming trends with the team after a visit to the Pitti Uomo menswear tradeshow in Florence

INSIGHT

The creative team uses CAD software to draft shoe designs before they are transposed into a 3D model for further modifications

Moreschiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famed burgundy loafers in kangaroo hide worn by Pope Benedict. In 2007, he received 150,001 pairs of shoes from Moreschi to be donated to the poor

Rows of lasts, dating back to the 1960s are archived and graded according to their popularity and commercial value

Mario reveals some of the brand’s new designs such as this elegant dark brown loafer with red lace and tassle. The CEO is obsessed with brown, a shade that accounts for three-quarters of his shoe collection. Black shoes, however, is Moreschi’s best-seller, making up 70 per cent of its sales

Mario shows off the brand’s collection of exotic leather culled from all over the world, such as python, crocodile, ostrich and even beaver skin

Like wine, leather looks and feels better with age. Moreschi keeps its stash, some dating back to the 1950s, in a specially built bunker

Hot off the line: New designs ready to be packed and shipped to Moreschi stores

INSIGHT

NEXT BIG THING

Marina Bay Sands is fast shaping up to be the high-end shopping mecca of the local retail scene, Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Folio rounds up the early starters

PICTURE COURTESY OF ARUP

TEXT: JOSHUA YAP

Barely three months since its opening, Marina Bay Sands already boasts the most impressive congregation of watch boutiques this side of town, from haute horlogerie purveyor Sincere Fine Watches (#B2-206), to entry level watch stores like Casio G-Factory (#B2-26A) and Fossil (#B2-76). Watchmaking stalwarts like Rolex (#B2-211), Patek Philippe (#B2-239) and Omega (#B1-122) are sure-fire bets to score some brag-worthy timepieces, but make sure to drop in on Breguet (#B1-119) and Longines (#B1-18) for a little tutelage on horological history with their respective antiquated machinery displays and resource library. Meantime, Rado (#B1-18A) charms with a liberal use of matte and glossy surface that reflects its use of high-tech ceramics as Vacheron Constantin (#B2-238) evokes the aesthetics of its historical maison in Geneva, and the IWC store (#B1-126) channels the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s understated luxury ethos with an interplay of black and white elements.

INSIGHT

THE FRENCH CONNECTION Luxury shoemaker Pierre Corthay says the art of bespoke is all about making the right connections TEXT: WONG KEE SOON PORTRAIT: CAROLYN STROVER

When Pierre

Corthay stepped into his aunt’s loft workshop at the age of 10, he walked into the rest of his life. Pierre’s aunt was a sculptor working with leather at that time and the young Frenchman was so enamored by the luxurious skins, he spent all his spare time there learning to make leather bracelets. Spurred by his love for leather, Pierre decided then that his ambition in life was to make the most exquisite leather shoes. “I didn’t waste time. I knew at an early age that I wanted to make quality men’s shoes,” Pierre recalls. And he learnt from the best too – starting his shoemaking career at John Lobb before moving to Berluti. Today, as the founder of his 20-year-old eponymous brand, Pierre’s passion for leather craft remains unabated and he makes it his personal mission to share it with his customers. Pierre Corthay offers bespoke services and ready-to-wear shoes. Of the former, he says he is “in the business of understanding the customer”. The bespoke process, he explains, goes beyond taking the right measurements, or working with exquisite craftsmanship and materials. “A lot of customers don’t tell you what they want, or know what they want. It is different with each customer – they have different preferences, needs and personalities which I have to discern. This is probably the most interesting part of the bespoke process,” says the 48-year-old.

A bespoke Corthay creation starts with a dialogue at one of his maisons in France, Netherlands, Belgium, Switzerland, Germany or Japan. After determining the customer’s preferences, the craftsman creates personalised wood lasts before constructing the shoe. Each step requires concentration and precision, from the hand-carving of the wood last (one pair per design/ wearer) to the hand-sewing of leather using a twisted thread lathered in beeswax. The entire process takes about 50 hours from consultation to delivery. Pierre’s stringent standards have won him fans like the Sultan of Brunei, who famously ordered 150 pairs, and film director Roman Polanski. Fashion brands like Christian Dior, Lanvin and Yohji Yamamoto have also requested his collaboration in capsule shoe collections and haute couture shows.

Pierre Corthay has six employees producing 150 pairs of bespoke shoes a year from its Parisian showroom-cum-atelier

Oedipe

“We create with respect to tradition and plenty of love”

Oedipe Roi

Pierre Corthay

Schizo

Electrochoc

In 2001 Pierre introduced a ready-towear range, offering four collections (Oedipe, Oedipe Roi, Schizo and Electrochoc) as an outlet for his flamboyant creations. Here, one finds calf leather shades that mimic flames, or ‘schizophrenic’ material blends such as leather with canvas or suede. However, Pierre insists that both his bespoke and RTW shoes “share the same spirit. “We are obsessed with quality and we never compromise,” he says. “We are modern but we create with respect to tradition and plenty of love. This passion can be seen in our products. Some customers buy a lot of shoes while others order one pair to last them a long time. But what’s important is the relationship between the craftsman and the customer, which lasts a lifetime.”

INSIGHT

CARDINAL COMFORT

Frederic Sai is not looking to make a fashion statement with his menswear debut – he just wants us to be comfortable TEXT: JOSHUA YAP PORTRAIT: MICHAEL TAN/WWW.MIKAIMAGES.COM

“I don’t

do skinny,” qualifies Frederic Sai. The rookie designer will not pander to the tightfitting predilection of self-professed hipsters, despite hordes of them milling about Cineleisure Orchard where his boutique is located. Instead, the 27-yearold says that his debut menswear collection is casual and unfussy, and he believes in comfort with a capital ‘C’. But that is not to say that Frederic’s clothes are bland or unadorned. He points to mother-ofpearl buttons with his name engraved on the sides, Lyocell (a lightweight and durable fabric made from cellulose fibre) for his shirts, as well as high grade cotton T-shirt that have been custom-dyed to his specifications. These details might be lost among the casual shopper but they have actually cost him numerous sourcing trips to Vietnam, Cambodia and China. Eager to leave his own mark, Frederic also designed a frame motif for the shirts, polo tees and T-shirts as a signature element. Rounding up the collection is a selection of basic jackets, jeans, shorts, patent leather shoes and duo-coloured belts that are functional and versatile. A highlight is the ‘Love is Blind’ T-shirt, with the word ‘love’ velvetprinted in Braille in tribute to the support Frederic has gotten from his peers for his label.

Love is Blind T-shirt

Frame Shirt

T-shirts in Lyocell

Checkered shirts with jeans

For a collection as personal as this, Frederic is understandably defensive. Having premiered it to close friends prior to its launch in early August, he admits that some feedback was less than encouraging. “Some hated it, saying it’s uninspiring,” he shares. “But I’m not here to inspire. I appreciate revolutionary and avantgarde designs but they are impractical. What I put out here represents who I am, what I like and what I think is comfortable and wearable.” Judging from what we see, he appears to be right on all counts.

Polo shirt with cropped jeans

“What I put out here represents who I am, what I like and what I think is comfortable and wearable”

Frederic Sai

INSIGHT

HOW TOâ&#x20AC;Ś LEATHER

One need not be an old hand of a tannery to know good leather and how to treat it right. This five-minute guide will set one on the right path

TRUST NO ONE

but your senses. The softness of top quality leather made from the real deal can never be replicated by pretenders and lesser hides. If it feels or looks inferior, it probably is. GUCCI Brown Abaco light leather shirt

STRETCH YOUR DOLLAR

with failsafe black and brown leather goods, and resist passing Technicolor fads that reek like moth-eaten has-beens before the season ends. DUNHILL Black wood leather single briefcase PIQUADRO Black leather document bag MORESCHI Brown leather double buckle shoe

KNOW THY LEATHER.

While we are all for the hardwearing gloss of patent leather, the plushy casualness of suede and nubuck, and the novelty of embossed hides, fine grain calfskin or nappa leather remain the most common in leather accessories and the most versatile. LOUIS VUITTON Black and brown soft leather detachable boots TODâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S Black patent leather tasselled loafer HERMES Maroon Evergreen calf leather waist pouch

INSIGHT

TOD’S Blue suede belt BOSS SELECTION Black nubuck soft leather zip-up jacket LOUIS VUITTON Black embossed leather pouch

INSIGHT

EMBRACE THE OLD

school trend this season that offers an excellent selection of vintage silhouettes and hand burnished finishing that age gracefully for decades to come. GUCCI Brown leather half-moon bag and brown leather horse-bit loafer PRADA Brown Saffiano antique leather boots

A LITTLE TLC

goes a long way. Invest in a comprehensive arsenal of leather care paraphernalia that includes cleaning creams, conditioners, brushes and protective sprays.

TEXT: JOSHUA YAP STYLING: WEILUN PHOTOGRAPHY: MUNSTER AND LONG FEI / T2 PICTURES

CHURCH’S Brown leather lace up shoe, Valet box (includes duster, pair of shoe bags, 7” real shoe horn, three tubes of applicator shoe cream, two large brushes, two small brushes and a tin of protective spray )

INSIGHT

IT’S PERSONAL … At work and in life, David Au embraces luxury. The chief marketing officer of Trinity Limited, China’s leading luxury menswear retailer, oversees Cerruti 1881, Gieves & Hawkes, Kent and Curwen, and D’Urban. Here he dispenses tips on living it up in Europe TEXT: WONG KEE SOON PORTRAIT: SAMSON POON

“We represent a lot of European brands, so I visit Paris about three to four times a year. The city is like my second home – I stay on the 1st arrondissement, which is right across from the Louvre. I like the Gallieni bookstore in rue de Rivoli, which is about a block away. I shop at Colette for gadgets and at a vintage clothing store called Didier Ludot. I also like to walk from the 1st to the 9th arrondissement to visit an auction house in Drouot where daily antique auctions are held. I recently bought a mid-19th century table there. I like dining at Le Grand Vefour at Palais Royale, one of the oldest restaurants in Paris. It was founded in 1774, and has served many luminaries including Napoleon and Colette. When I’m in London, I enjoy visiting museums with large collections of Chinese porcelains including those of Sir Joseph Hotung’s. The Natural Museum, Victoria and Albert, British Museum, National Portrait Gallery, the Tate and the Serpentine Gallery are among my favourites. A lot of our stores are at Mayfair on Savile Row and New Bond Street, so I know that area quite well. Although it’s huge, London is also a great city to walk in. I also visit Milan often because of the fashion week. The city is very sophisticated; there are many wonderful restaurants, not forgetting insider parties. A recent party that impressed me was hosted by Tom Ford in an old, three-storey mansion. During men’s fashion week, there can be up to three parties every night. I try to cover as many as I can, even though I am working.”

David Au

“I WANT A RIOT OF MY OWN” – THE CLASH

mix

WEAR

WORK

1. Logo-ed cufflinks are not as crass as one imagines them to be; FENDI proposes a black and silver monogrammed pair that is versatile yet subtle.

Available at FENDI Ngee Ann City #01-31/32

2. James Bond favours CHURCH’S shoes for their durability and flexibility. So when the English shoemaker turns to laptop bags, expect similarly high standards in leather workmanship and user-friendliness. The bag even has an in-built rain protector. Available at CHURCH’S ION Orchard #02-08

3. We subscribe to Taliban-like rules for officewear – and that includes never wearing belts that command more attention than the rest of your ensemble. RAOUL offers a neat and dapper version that is unobtrusive but able to add measured pizzazz. Available at RAOUL Paragon Shopping Centre #02-49 Raffles City Shopping Centre #01-13

4. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA isn’t celebrating 100 years of excellence in fabric making with less than stellar accompaniments. Case in point is this pair of crocodile leather lace-ups, which pairs excellently with its classic suits and will probably age just as well.

Available at ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ION Orchard #02-07

5. Monograms and logos might provide instant gratification but as this GIVENCHY black leather wallet proves, nothing conveys power and prestige more effectively than a glorious raven sheen. 5 4

Available at GIVENCHY Paragon Shopping Centre #01-41

6. Bulk is out. Money-making style these days is all about staying trim and going places, as embodied by this slim and handy FURLA emu-print leather briefcase. Available at FURLA Paragon Shopping Centre #02-38 ION Orchard #03-01

7. Slip-ons are convenient, chic and a great alternative to boring brogues. Need proof? Check out SALVATORE FERRAGAMO’s leather version featuring an interesting texture that resembles tree bark. Available at SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Paragon Shopping Centre #01-04/05

8. HERMES’ vibrant silk ties are just the antidote for blue Mondays. Especially these with paperclip motif that poke fun at being back in the boardroom. Available at HERMES Ngee Ann City #02-02 Liat Towers #01-02A

9. Coloured button holes are so last season. Go classic with BULGARI pink gold cufflinks with mother-of-pearl inlay for a dash of subtle sophistication. Available at BULGARI The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands #B2-200

10. Get organised with SAMSONITE’s latest carry-on briefcases, portfolios and messenger bags that feature easily accessible compartments and spare room for a laptop.

Available at SAMSONITE Mandarin Gallery #02-18 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands #B2-88

WEAR

PLAY

1. British skinheads from the 1960s took their BEN SHERMAN gingham shirts very seriously indeed – their place in the hierarchy is implied by the size of the checks on their shirts. Today, the shirts continue to inspire riotous behaviour, albeit among mod revivalists who are enamoured by their slim-fits and buttondown collars.

Available at BEN SHERMAN Paragon Shopping Centre #03-48 VivoCity #01-24

2. Squeaky clean sneakers just don’t cut it. YVES SAINT LAURENT tackles the conundrum by adding faux dirt and grime to the soles, giving the low- and high-tops a seasoned appearance.

Available at YVES SAINT LAURENT ION Orchard #01-25

3. These BALLY santel fine leather hiking boots, an update of the 1950s originals, top our wish list for the looming ski season.

Available at BALLY ION Orchard #01-12 Raffles City Shopping Centre #01-28

4. James Dean might have helped popularise denim jeans but it was Brooke Shields who declared “Nothing-comesbetween-me-and-my-Calvins”. We prefer our CALVIN KLEIN JEANS snug with a ‘vintage’ wash that doesn’t get in the way of weekend pleasures.

Available at CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ION Orchard #B1-08 Paragon Shopping Centre #02-40/41

5. Give your workout a boost with the

PORSCHE DESIGN Bounce S2 runners.

Made in collaboration with adidas, the trainers are fitted with sports car-inspired suspension system for extra stability, and mesh exoskeleton for maximum comfort. Available at PORSCHE DESIGN ION Orchard #01-08

WEAR

6. THOMAS SABO’s western-inspired

pendant necklace conjures up images of pistol-toting cowboys and The Lone Ranger. But clean-cut heroic types needn’t bother – the brand is strictly on the side of the bad boys. Available at THOMAS SABO ION Orchard #B1-26 Raffles City Shopping Centre #01-31

7. Fancy Kate Moss hanging onto your

arms? Wish granted. LONGCHAMP’s collaboration with the British supermodel has resulted in the Gloucester, this season’s must-have calfskin leather weekend bag.

Available at LONGCHAMP ION Orchard #03-21

8. Ideal for packing weekend getaway essentials, HERMES Polochon Voyage 65 expresses the Parisian house’s sublime luxury with Evergrain calfskin lined with Chevron canvas.

Available at HERMES Ngee Ann City #02-02 Liat Towers #01-02A

9. It takes courage to don a pair of velvet loafers but if one pulls it off, the rewards can be profound – just ask Hugh Hefner. If you are bold enough, consider PEDRO’s all-white leather version. Available at all PEDRO boutiques

10. With iPad topping Christmas wishlists this year, indulge your mates with a designer case. TOD’S proposes a few choices in coloured crocodile leather and calfskin. Available at TOD’S Paragon Shopping Centre #01-48

WEAR

DREAM

1. Slash’s got his top hat, Frank Sinatra has his fedora and Che Guevera isn’t himself without his beret. Finding a distinct headgear to match one’s personality isn’t easy, but he can start with ETRO’s felt hats. This version has been accentuated with fake sparrows for a quirky getup. Available at ETRO Paragon Shopping Centre #01-30/31

2. Are two shirts better than one? ADIDAS SLVR makes a case for

double-teaming with a blue cotton shirt with white linen at the sleeves and hem. This sporty derivative of the classic is chic without ‘selling out’ to serious businesswear Available at ADIDAS Mandarin Gallery #03-13

3. The secret to RAY-BAN’s longevity is that it knows when to break the rules. Take its iconic Wayfarer. Typically dressed in black, the collection has been given a new lease of life with limited edition models that come with either green or 24K gold lenses. Available at leading optical stores

4. DR. MARTENS boots might be standard attire for National Front skinheads but one doesn’t need to be a gangbanger to sport the iconic 8-Eye leather boots. To nullify the boots’ aggressive look, opt for coloured soles and match them with similar laces.

Available at DR. MARTENS Orchard Central #03-05

5. You don’t have to be a Twilight fanatic to appreciate the late ALEXANDER MCQUEEN’s obsession with morbid designs. The designer’s posthumous collection of fashion boxers and briefs that feature bone and feather prints are sexy enough to warrant their own fan base. Available at leading department stores

WEAR

6. French label PULL-IN takes the mickey out of conventional tighty-whities with loud graphic prints. Fans of Austin Powers will appreciate their cheeky nicknames like Cock-a-doo-dle-doo and Geisha Love. Available at BOARDS N STUFF *SCAPE #02-13

7. ALAIN MIKLI doesn’t do subtle. Its vintage-inspired two-tone eyewear is designed for the attention monger with eye-popping colours running from the temples to the front of the frame. Available at SEEN@DEMPSEY 26 Dempsey Road #01-03

8. 2(X)IST goes the Chippendale route with a heart-stopping thong featuring a ‘Y’ back that leaves little on one’s posterior. We recommend hitting the gym before donning a pair for the desired effect. Available at leading department stores

9. Loafer-style tassles on ankle boots sounds like a disastrous idea but trust PRADA to perform miracles. This oddly alluring hybrid radiates eye-catching flair with dual-tone brown and black leather that is finished with a glorious sheen.

Available at PRADA ION Orchard #01-01

10. Chinese label KIROIC and Korean designer JUNN.J marry low- and high-top sneakers in this collaboration. Featuring a ‘two-in-one’ concept, the leather exterior unzips to an ‘inner’ shoe – a traditional lace-up.

TEXT: WONG KEE SOON AND JASON KWONG

Available at ACTUALLYACTUALLY 16 Purvis Street #02-01

RENEW

BLUE STREAK Chanel unmasks Bleu de Chanel, a multi-faceted fragrance for the 21st century man TEXT: JASON KWONG

Jacques Polge, creator of Bleu de Chanel

Chanel doesn’t

Martin Scorsese on set

just do fashion – it tells stories. And the French label finds a new partner-in-crime for its cinematic ad campaigns in Martin Scorsese, who directs its new Bleu de Chanel ad. Like the Cruise 2011 collection short film directed by Karl Lagerfeld, and the Chanel No.5 ads starring Nicole Kidman and Audrey Tautou, the Bleu de Chanel TV spot transpires in an emotive Chanel world – in this instance one that belongs to a conflicted character (Gaspard Ulliel) who rages against an ex-lover. Like the fragrance – Chanel’s first for men in 11 years – the protagonist is complex and unrestrained. The manly scent comprises ingredients such as pink peppers, grapefruit, peppermint, nutmeg and ginger. Chanel perfumer Jacques Polge explains that it interprets masculinity in a fresh way. “We might always write the same notes but we present them differently to reflect the times,” he says.

Gaspard Ulliel, the face of Bleu de Chanel

SCENTS OF A MAN – Chanel’s men’s fragrances through the years 1955 Pour Monsieur

Chanel’s first fragrance for men, the only one produced while Coco Chanel was still alive, was created by Henri Robert.

1981

Antaeus Jacques Polge’s first men’s fragrance for Chanel boasts robust leather, wood, lavender and spices that evoke decadence.

1993

Platinum Egoiste An exotic follow-up to the provocative Egoiste released three years earlier, Platinum Egoiste features petit grain from Paraguay mixed with lavender, clay sage and geranium.

1999

Allure Homme A companion to the Allure range for women, Allure Homme infuses tonka beans, labdanum, cedar and black pepper, and became so popular that three more versions were released: Allure Homme Sport (2004), Allure Homme Sport Cologne (2007) and Allure Homme Edition Blanche (2008). Bleu de Chanel (2010)

From left: Pour Monsieur (1955), Antaeus (1981), Egoiste (1990), Platinum Egoiste (1993), Allure Homme (1999), Allure Homme Sport (2004), Allure Homme Sport Cologne (2007) and Allure Homme Edition Blanche (2008)

RENEW

PLANT POWER Boasting world-sourced botanical extracts and modern technology, Molton Brown’s new range of grooming aids is just what we need to take charge of our daily ablutions TEXT: JOSHUA YAP

For alpha

males who wish to adopt a takeno-prisoners approach to grooming, Molton Brown is their best accomplice. As Molton Brown’s vice president of research and development Dr Jeffery Veiro explains, its new men-only products are complete, modern, highperformance and results-driven. “Every product in the range has been designed specifically for men and targets their specific needs,” he adds. “Each ingredient is carefully identified and chosen for its ability to deliver, combining the finest natural ingredients with cutting-edge scientific technologies.” Available at Raffles Hotel Arcade #01-26 Tel: 6339 9697 Tangs Orchard Level 2 Tel: 6235 0681 Ngee Ann City #B1-51 Tel: 6736 4636

Attain absolute shower time bliss with the Fresh Bushukan Citrus bodywash that cleanses and nourishes with an aromatic blend of bushukan citrus and bilberry extracts.

The Power-boost Zinc Anti-fatigue hydrator and anti-ageing Skin-firm Lipoamino hydrator combat skin fatigue and early signs of ageing. The former combines Japanese sake extract with zinc mineral complex to boost skin vitality while the latter smoothens fine lines with a blend of hinoki oil and lipoamino acid.

Volumising Thekku hairwash and Anti-dandruff Jackberry hairwash thicken one’s crowning glory and tame flaky scalp respectively.

Bright Vita Eye-energy serum is an antidote for puffy and tired-looking eyes with its potent mix of vitamin B3 and ash bark extract.

For an all-day freshness, Cool Buchu anti-perspirant stick, and Fresh Bushukan Citrus face and body splash offer instant perk-up with their uplifting scents.

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RENEW

ALPHA AESTHETICS A new crop of menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s-only grooming products leaves us no excuse for not looking our best TEXT: JOSHUA YAP

KERATASE HOMME

Capital Force Densifying Effect Shampoo Besides its claim to combat hormonal causes of hair loss with its proprietary Systeme Taurine formula, what we love about this shampoo is its hair thickening effect. Use it for two weeks and witness how limp and dull hair is transformed to a fuller mane. Available at authorised salons www.kerastase.com

LIERAC HOMME

Anti-Double Chin Cream Unlike those who still equate double chins with prosperity, we prefer to keep ours singular and taut. This firming cream does exactly what its name says with a potent mix of active ingredients including Glaucine complex and rye extracts. Available at all Robinsons, John Little, Watsons at Ngee Ann City and ION Orchard, BHG Bugis, ALT at The Heeren, Metro Causeway Point and The Beauty Shop at 17 Eng Hoon Street

3 4 5

THE FACE SHOP

Neo Classic Homme Double Action Foam Cleanser We are all for multitasking so this facial wash gets our vote. Its luxurious texture makes it a great shaving cream stand-in while charcoal powder contents purifies and removes dead skin cells. It also comes with aloe vera extract to soothe razor burns. Available at The Face Shop stores www.thefaceshop.com

TASK ESSENTIAL Oxywater Spray

Spritzing this on the face is almost as good as weather-proofing it. Containing pure oxygen, spring water and antiseptic agents, it is a hydrating boost that also guards against free radicals and pollutants like tobacco smoke and exhaust fumes. Available at WhatHeWants The Cathay #01-06, Orchard Central #03-03

SKEEN+

Anti-Aging Regenerating Night Fluid Turbo charge the restorative effects of a good snooze with this lotion. Formulated with a combination of purifying and decongesting agents, it stimulates cell renewal and skin repair for a fresh complexion and reduced dark circles. Available at Sephora ION Orchard #01-05, Ngee Ann City #B1-05, Great World City #01-59

Hong Kong

Singapore

Beijing

Delhi

Hair by appointment 391 Orchard Road #02-12 Takashimaya Shopping Centre Ngee Ann City Singapore 238872 Tel: 6738 8006

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RENEW

AIR APPARENT

This season’s most scintillating and evocative scents TEXT: JASON KWONG

DAVIDOFF Champion With a dumbbell for a flacon, there’s no mistaking who is Davidoff Champion’s target. This virile blend of zingy bergamot and lemon notes anchored by woody undertones is a winning scent.

2 3

BOND NO.9 High Line Inspired by New York City’s High Line Park, B ond No.9 p a y s h om a g e t o t h e a e r ial greenway with a similarly elevated fragrance that bursts with hints of wildflowers, bergamot and Indian rhubarb.

LOEWE Solo Loewe Pop Brash and off-beat, yet totally relevant, Solo Loewe Pop is guided by contemporary pop art from its graffiti case design to its energetic notes of pepper, lavender, bourbon vanilla and tonka beans.

4 5

AJMAL Shadow Middle Eastern exoticism gets an airing with Ajmal Shadow featuring a sex y, woodsy blend of pimento leaf, sandalwood, patchouli and musk.

BULGARI Man L e g end a r y p e r f um e r Al b e r t o Mor il l a s distills masculinity in a bottle for Bulgari by combining woodsy notes of vetiver and cypriol with the sweet scents of white wood and vegetal amber.

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FORM

THE ANTI-HOOPLA Marc Newson breaks down his work in simple terms TEXT: LI HAOHAN

Ikepod’s flagship Horizon model gets an artistic makeover with Jeff Koons enlivening Marc Newson’s design with a pyramid of cannonballs

Like the

The Hour Glass marks its 30th anniversary with 30 limited edition Ikepod hourglasses by Marc Newson

PICTURES COURTESY OF HOURGLASS

magician who takes a perverse pleasure in showing you exactly where the rabbit is hiding inside the hat, Marc Newson is the first to deflate your media-fuelled vision of what a star designer should be. “My job is about solving problems through design,” he says. Just that – no drama, no irony, no pomp – a bit like a Formula 1 driver who describes what he does as “driving fast”. Anyone who’s expecting a preening star designer with a wardrobe worthy of Willy Wonka or a vocabulary comprising complex polysyllabic jargons will find the 47-year-old a bit of a letdown. Or a refreshing change. Marc would rather that his designs speak for themselves. And given his body of works, his public should hear diverse languages. He has designed nearly everything: sex toy for Myla, shaker for Ajinomoto, airplane interiors, concept car, champagne coffret, house numbers, timepieces for Ikepod – a company he co-owns – and airport lounges. Is there anything he wouldn’t touch? “I have turned down some projects,” he replies casually, “because I simply don’t have time.” In the universe of his creations, one would be hard pressed to see a signature Newson touch – the leitmotif by which his public can identify his work. “I think there is some consistency – the organic, intuitive, old communication and a sense of simplicity, symmetry and use of materials.” A prime example is the hourglass that he designed for Asia’s leading luxury watch retailer The Hour Glass. Crafted from a single piece of 3mm-thick borosilicated glass, the hourglass contains 21 million low carbon, gold-plated .035mm nanoballs – enough to tell an elapsed time of 60 minutes. The piece, commissioned to celebrate The Hour Glass’s 30th anniversary, is instantly recognisable. “I wanted it to be so,” Marc says. “We put in a lot of effort in design and craftsmanship, working with specialist on uniform-sized balls that will not scratch the inside of the glass – and undermine the timepiece’s accuracy – over time.”

Lauded for its bold choice of materials and organic form, Marc Newson’s Veroni shelf is carved from a single block of white Carrara to mimic biological cell structures

Fame came fast and early for Marc, then 23, with his chaise longue – the Lockheed Lounge – a sensuous patchwork of aluminium plates wrapped around a fiberglass body and held together by rivets. But he continuously built a tremendous portfolio and along the way gathered plaudits for truly remarkable designs, select pieces of which have been acquired by leading museums including MoMA and the V&A, and culminated in honours such as this year’s honorary Doctor of Visual Arts degree from the University of Sydney. Ironically, what the public remembers of him most is the dubious honour of setting new auction record for a living designer’s work when a Lockheed prototype fetched US$968,000 in 2006 at a Sotheby’s auction. In 2007, one was sold for US$1.5 million at Christie’s, and in May this year, another was sold at a Philips DePury auction for US$2.1 million. “I don’t understand,” he says resignedly but with a hint of amusement, “that anyone would pay such amount for them.” Marc reportedly created them, with his own hands, and in limited quantity because that was the only way he could afford to get them produced.

Rather than resist the label, Marc graciously admits that he has indeed become a brand, yet he expresses discomfiture when the media hypes up his persona rather than his work – proof that to him, at least, they are two different things. “Everything is designed nowadays,” he concedes, except things in nature. “Sometimes design is just there in the background; sometimes it is more apparent. But (industrial design) is not like architecture, which is more imposed on the individual in the sense that he can’t do anything about it. In (industrial design), the consumer still wields the power to choose.”

Marc Newson established his signature fluid aesthetic with the Embryo chair for Cappellini

Based loosely on 18th century chaise lounges, the Lockheed Lounge won Marc Newson worldwide recognition in 1986 with its fluid metallic form

Anyone who’s expecting a preening star designer will find Marc Newson a letdown

FORM

SEA CHANGE

Eager to test his limits as a designer, Lebanese couturier Elie Saab troops out of the fashion field and sails into the high seas TEXT: Y-JEAN MUN-DELSALLE

Meet Elie Saab, couturier of choice to Tinseltown A-listers Halle Berry, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Gwyneth Paltrow and Sarah Jessica Parker. Now meet Elie Saab the luxury yacht designer. The nimble-fingered Lebanese known for modern, intricate and elegant apparel, and who is on the speed-dial of Queen Rania of Jordan and assorted Middle Eastern princesses for whom he serves as personal stylist, has decided to cast his creativity to the high seas by designing his first luxury yacht.

The vessel in question is the ES117, the first of three mega-yachts Elie is designing for Weyves Couture Concept, a producer of luxury yachts branded by internationally acclaimed fashion designers, in collaboration with yacht builder Oceanco. Bearing the designer’s initials and the vessel’s length (117m), the mega-yacht will be powered by a hybrid quadruple engine and characterised by high ceilings reaching 12m in some places. For Elie, who is in charge of designing the interior and exterior, the yacht will be a continental-crossing symbol of power and prestige. “I have always sought to represent my vision of modernity and elegance beyond the conventional limits of fashion,” he says. “If I hadn’t become a fashion designer, I would have been an architect. I have always been fascinated by volumes and structures.” The yacht will boast two private suites, two decks, 10 guest suites, a swimming pool, whirlpool, theatre, spa and gym. It will also include a helicopter, submarine, car and water toys signed by Elie, who proclaims that he will be “creating the experience of ultimate luxury”.

Elie Saab wants a name for himself outside of fashion with architecture and interior design collaborations

The 117-m long mega-yacht will boast a steel hull and aluminium structure housing numerous suites and amenities like theatre, pool and spa

“My goal is to create a unique luxury experience unavailable anywhere. This is what the yacht’s clients will be looking for,” he explains. Elie is no stranger to collaborations. In the past, he has partnered with the BMW Group in the Middle East to design limited editions of the award-winning BMW X5 Sports Activity Vehicle; and has worked on the interiors of a luxury boutique hotel at the Tiger Woods Dubai, a private golfing retreat. He also designs furniture for leisure.

Taking inspiration from fashion designers like Roberto Cavalli, Christian Lacroix and Giorgio Armani who have branched out of fashion, Elie believes that the only way for him to progress is by expanding his horizons. “We have reached an era for designers where being the best is no longer enough. Expansion and evolution are my main priorities. I’m ready to enter any field that I feel I can add something new to and make my own,” he says.

FORM

VERACIOUS VETERAN Designer Massimo Scolari revels in anonymity and would rather court functional designs than superstardom TEXT & ART DIRECTION: RYAN WU PORTRAIT: MICHAEL TAN / WWW.MIKAIMAGES.COM

Massimo Scolari

is the creative thinktank of Giorgetti – the Brianza, Italy-based furniture empire whose exquisitely wrought pieces are routinely found in the homes and offices of the world’s patrician elite. Prolific and fiercely opinionated, his works are part of the permanent collections of MoMA (New York) and the Centre Pompidou (Paris). His candour is evident from the way he fields questions with lucid answers peppered with tirades against crowd-pleasing designer pieces and the herd-like consumerist mentality. “Philippe Starck’s Juicy Salif orange squeezer is the most stupid machine I have ever seen because you get all the seeds in your glass when you use it,” he says. “But people buy it because it is a designer piece. Ron Arad’s Bookworm bookshelf is another example. Have you ever seen books displayed in curves in a library? But people buy it and put in on the wall because it is designed by Ron Arad.”

Massimo Scolari

“Arabella is for people who want to rest and be comfortable; it is not created to address a market demand. It is a proposal of how to sit”

Hardly a case of sour grapes, as one might imagine. Massimo does not covet Starck’s or Arad’s fame; on the contrary, he is more than happy to remain semianonymous, preferring to let his designs speak for themselves, rather than produce designs for design’s sake. For instance, Giorgetti’s Arabella lounge chair may have been a product of Massimo’s mastery of human ergonomics and his signature use of voluptuous contours, but he readily shares credit with his longtime collaborator, Carlo Giorgetti, the brand’s president. “The mechanical design was actually developed by Carlo 15 years ago,” he says. “We started work 15 years ago to figure out how to we can create a flexible machine for sitting. But it was dropped because the artisans said it was impossible. The solution was finally discovered by Carlo in corsetry.”

From channel surfing to surfing the Web on your laptop, the Arabella is engineered for the 21st century, with an innovative design that envelopes and cushions the body in any position

A prototype based on a rigid structure of rods inserted into fabric channels and covered in a flexible material like a corset was developed. And that was eventually refined into the ultra-comfortable Arabella lounge chair with a curiously bendy seatback. Beyond its elasticity and enveloping embrace, its beauty lies in its swivelling motion and choice of left or right arm, which means that one can create an intimate setting where the chairs (and its occupants) engage in a dialogue with one another. “Arabella is for people who want to rest and be comfortable,” Massimo shares. “Unlike most furniture out there, it is not created to address a market demand. It is a proposal of how to sit. It is important for us to not follow market demands blindly but find new ways of stimulating it. We do so by helping people understanding the attitude of the body in relation to the changes in history, because the history of the chair is related to the history of social life. The chair is the most interesting element to monitor the changing fashions and culture.” GIORGETTI is available at SPACE FURNITURE Millenia Walk, Level 2 Tel: 6415 0000 www.spacefurniture.com.sg

The backrest has an internal frame composed of harmonic steel springs that enables tremendous elasticity and makes the support ergonomic

FORM

BOOKISH REBELS No mere wallflowers, these bookcases snub conventions with statement-making forms TEXT: JOSHUA YAP

ALIVAR Shanghai

Shanghai intrigues with its network of hive-like structure for shelves. Mixing the old with the new, its external frame is crafted from oak while its irregular shelves expresses progressive aesthetics with Ductal Cement, an innovative material composed of recyclable organic fibres. Available at XTRA

KARTELL Sundial

Kartellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sundial might not be the most peculiar of this lot but its sober appearance belies its rebellious streak. Its opaline dividers are eccentrically angled, dictating one to tilt his head to its bidding. Available at SPACE FURNITURE Millenia Walk, Level 2 Tel: 6415 0000 www.spacefurniture.com.sg

DOMODINAMICA Autumn

Like its name suggests, this shelving system evokes an autumnal tree that has shed all of its leaves. Its sturdy branch-like shelves are made of steel sheets that have been handtreated and lacquered to create a rusty effect. www.domodinamica.com

LIFESTOREY Great World City #02-15 Tel: 6732 7362 www.lifestorey.com

KARTELL SINGAPORE Centre Point #05-14 Tel: 6238 7323 www.kartell.it

21-7 JE Form Aug10 7/29/10 11:45 AM Page 1 C

Composite

CY CMY

FORM

E15

Arie

Its erratic placement of dividing slats aside, what we love most about the Arie bookcase is its versatility. Working spectacularly well as a freestanding room divider or conventional against-the-wall unit it looks even better with two or more units combined. Available at P5 5 Purvis Street # 01-02 Tel: 6337 0050 www.p5.com.sg

PORADA Cell

Porada’s Cell blithely defies convention with its round profile. A single unit functions as a side table but stack two or more and you’ll have a bookshelf that swivels for easy all-angle access. Available at QSQUARE 16 Tai Seng Street Tel: 6383 0119 www.marquis.com.sg

ARKETIPO Target

Marked by a series of stark crosshair supports, Target is perfect for showcasing one’s stash of bulky fashion and design books. Once filled, the supports seem to fade unobtrusively into the background, letting the spines of one’s precious reads take centrestage. Available at XTRA Park Mall #01-01 / #02-01 Tel: 6336 0688

Vivocity #02-12 Tel: 6376 9667 www.xtra.com.sg

RSS_peony_Men'sFolio OL.pdf

23/7/10

10:46:52

DRIVE

BEAUTY IN THE BEAST McLarenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s MP4-12C might not be the most spectacular looking in the market, but it will be a supercar landmark in more ways than one TEXT : NICK HALL

The low front cowl, the elegant, long windscreen, the unmistakable side air inlets, and the high, aggressive rear, every sculpted line of the MP412C is designed to enhance its aerodynamics

IMAGES COURTESY OF MCLAREN AUTOMOTIVE

PHOTOGRAPHY : NICK HALL

DRIVE

Using knowledge gleaned from making the McLaren F1, we developed an airbrake for the MP4-12C. Automatically deploying under heavy braking, it helps to stabilise the car

The Seamless Shift Gearbox will help it on its way, and it comes with a cute touch. It is armed with two wet-sump clutches like Audi’s DSG system, but it does not to try to presume which gear you want next. You have to tell it with a half tug on the lever, like pressing a camera’s shutter halfway down to trigger the autofocus, when the car pre-engages the next gear for lightning fast shifts. Top speed and even acceleration will be less than half this story, though, as an F1 team and manufacturer of McLaren’s reputation simply couldn’t unleash a handling dog. This car has to show a clean pair of heels to more or less every other car in the world in the corners. It will.

There’s nothing revolutionary about the suspension, its independent double wishbones and the lowest possible mass. But McLaren has the edge in its simulation work honed by years of high level competition. An F1 car is a constant exercise in evolution and development, and behind the scenes of the world’s fastest sport are millions of mathematical models that test a part to destruction without it ever being made. This meticulous work has gone into the road car, together with thousands of miles of real world testing, to create a 1,300kg beast that should conquer bends, straights and some well established supercar brands.

TORQUE:

343lb/ft

POWER:

600bhp

ENGINE (S):

M838T twin-turbo 3.8L V8

TOP SPEED:

320kph

0 – 100KPH:

3.7 seconds

TIME

THE SECRET WEAPON

If Giulio Papi were a star, what the heck is he doing in the wings? TEXT: LI HAOHAN

“A new watch has only three seconds to captivate an audience, Within those three seconds, the audience should stop hesitating to buy”

Chanel gets an haute horlogerie boost courtesy of the Renaud & Papi designed Calibre RMT-10 powering its Retrograde Mysterieuse

Conceptualising and manufacturing all of Richard Mille’s complications since its inception, Renaud & Papi was instrumental in the development of the ultra thin RM 017 Tourbillon

Affectionately known among watch enthusiasts as the ChronAP, the Jules Audemars Watch with Audemars Piguet Escapement features a Renaud & Papi developed movement that operates at an exceptional frequency of 43,200 vph sans lubricant Stealing the limelight from the forged carbon case of the Audemars Piguet Millenery Carbon One Tourbillon Chronograph, the hand-wound Calibre 2884 movement beguiles with its openwork intricacies

Giulio’s work is beyond an excursion into arcane knowledge, however. A seasoned watchmaker and repairer, he ably discusses why such techniques are applied on different watch parts and what benefits they bring to the finished product, thus exposing the brains behind beauty. “The mind and the hand work together on decorations; we want to see if customers appreciate such knowledge.” And if they don’t, they only need to realise that 55 per cent of production money is spent on decoration and finishing – a darn good reason to pay heed to their application. Giulio himself spent a decade unearthing what would have been a dead art; eight of those years were invested in actually learning them under the masters, and another five to commit all knowledge to paper. “A new watch has only three seconds to captivate an audience. Within those three seconds, the audience should stop hesitating to buy.” Finishing and decoration is the linchpin of those three seconds. “What (Renaud & Papi) offers is reliability based on sound technical foundation, with high aesthetics that come from good design, as well as excellent finish and decoration.”

TIME

PRACTICAL MAGIC Why rely on a watch for diving expeditions when one can have a mini-computer on his wrist, asks Linde Werdelin TEXT: JOSHUA YAP

Necessity may

be the mother of invention but anger can prove to be its excellent catalyst too. Pissed off with ugly skiing and diving instruments, and frustrated by sports watches that fall short of expectations, sports fanatics Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin conspired to create a watch brand with the poise of a high-end Swiss timepiece and the brains of professional digital data modules – a superhero watch with a secret identity if you will. The result is Linde Werdelin, partwatch, part-diving instrument and all-round conversation starter. Key to the watch is a rugged angular case with indentations that hold detachable digital instruments securely in place. Currently, two digital high-precision modules are available: The Reef for diving and The Rock for skiing. The The Oktopus Tatto features an octopus engraving by Danish tattoo artist Henning Jensen

former provides information on pressure, temperature, dive time and direction while the latter comes with built-in inclination and temperature sensors as well as integrated altimeter, barometer and compass. “A beautiful mechanical watch should just remain as such, and not have its appearance compromised by the added functionality. That’s why we decided to have a clipon instrument,” explains Jorn. When liberated from the ‘mini-computers’, however, the watches quickly transform into horological talking pieces. Last year’s Spidolite SA, for instance, features a hollowed out case of incredible lightness and a vintage 1970s automatic movement. This year, the brand offers the Oktopus, which features a photo-realistic moon countdown display for planning night dives.

“A beautiful mechanical watch should just remain as such, and not have its appearance compromised by the added functionality”

Boasting a photo-realistic moon phase countdown display by Sven Andersen, the Oktopus Moonphase allows night divers plan their next dive

Spidolite in rose gold with The Rock in natural anodised aluminium

Hard Black DLC II with The Rock in black anodised aluminium

INNER SPACE

When it isn’t cosying up to cosmonauts, Fortis seeks the company of contemporary artists TEXT: ALVIN WONG

“Although we

The Mattern LE, which comes with black, blue or yellow strap, is limited to 2012 pieces

Michael Mattern

actively engage in space research for our watches, looking inward is just as important,” says Fortis business development manager Max Peter. He points to the brand’s ‘IQ’ and ‘Planet’ watches, designed by Swiss artist Rolf Sachs and Tate Museum luminary Gerd Winner, respectively. “The IQ’s blackboard-style dial and the Planet’s cosmic fields dial express a sense of adventure and make us wonder about art in watch engineering.” Both watches can be found in Fortis’ Art collection, which debuted in 2008. This year, the brand engages German contemporary artist Michael Mattern for the line’s third model, the Mattern LE, which crosses Roy Lichtenstein’s pop sensibility with a watch skeletonisation artist’s naked ambition. “Our time is characterised by the technology that dominates our lives,” says the artist as he seeks to unravel this domineering influence. “Michael wants to demystify the technology behind the watch, hence the bare dial,” adds Max. “He also injects quirkiness with coloured hands, indexes and movement parts.” Even as Fortis creates macho aviation and space-age watches that are worn by Russian cosmonauts, the Art collection reminds us that it is ultimately the human mind – not space – that demands deeper exploration.

TIME

PORTUGUESE PAEAN IWC declares 2010 as the ‘Year of the Portuguese’ with a bumper offering of the legendary collection TEXT: JOSHUA YAP

IWC’s

Portuguese

ticks all the boxes on our checklist of refined wrist adornment. Classy, iconic, and backed by kickass mechanics, the watch set the precedence for oversized watches in 1939 when a pair of Portuguese seafaring businessmen asked for a wristwatch version of the pocket watch original. Now in its eighth decade, IWC is giving the Portuguese the royal treatment by enriching the mighty family with 10 newcomers. Fledgling watch collectors will do well to check out basic models such as the Portuguese Hand-Wound and Automatic, as well as the Portuguese Chronograph and Yacht Club Chronograph. Inheriting the impeccable styling of their forebears without bank-breaking bells and whistles, they are great induction points to the Portuguese collection.

But should one aspire to greatness, he can set his sights on the big kahunas like the Portuguese Grande Complication that boasts perpetual calendar, chronograph and minute repeater functions; the tourbillon models with flying minute tourbillons that are heirloom shooins; the sublime perpetual calendar editions with striking moon phase displays; and the sombre Portuguese Minute Repeater that chimes the time to the minute on demand.

Entering its eighth decade of production, IWC’s Portugese collection is enriched with 10 new models including covetable high complications pieces

Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater

Grande Complication

Tourbillon Mystere Retrograde

YOU LOOKING AT ME? Watches to beat up other watches with TEXT: ALVIN WONG

RADO

Ceramica Gold Sure it looks gentle, but don’t be fooled by the Ceramica Gold’s lustrous shine. The case and bracelet look like they have been fashioned in yellow gold but are in fact made from high-tech ceramic – a distinctive Rado material that is ultra scratch – and temperature-resistant.

ANONIMO Cronoscopio Mark II Nero

The name ‘Nero’ has nothing to do with the Roman Emperor, but everything to do with the sturdy case finishing beefed up by Anonimo’s proprietary OxPro blackening treatment. At its heart is the Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement, rated by the watch industry as one of the most reliable.

TIME

THE WONDER YEARS

The best days are the early days, and it is worth reliving them time and again TEXT: ALVIN WONG

TUDOR

Heritage Chronograph Never mind the Bee Gees soundtrack, strap on Tudor’s Heritage Chronograph to really get into the 1970s mood. Taking inspiration from the Tudor Oysterdate Chronograph without lapsing into selfplagiarism, this watch is a wistful look at a time when the notion of ‘sporting elegance’ was starting to take hold.

PANERAI

Mare Nostrum

After multiple setbacks (wars, natural disasters, corporate takeovers) that impeded its production, the Mare Nostrum finally gets a commercial run. The 1943 original existed only as a prototype and Panerai has remade the modern version to look exactly like its forebear. The movement, however, has been updated from an Angelus 215 chronograph movement to a hand-wound OP XXV Calibre with column-wheel. Limited to 99 pieces.

CHRONO-COPIA Clad in nostalgia or dripping with sporty vigour, these chronographs lend a testosterone kick to any getups TEXT: JOSHUA YAP

PATEK PHILIPPE

Ref. 5170J

Sporting the much-vaunted Ref. 5170J calibre, this chronograph is a handsome throwback to vintage doctorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s watches with its pulsimeter scaled dial and Calatrava-style case.

A. LANGE & SOHNE

1815 Chronograph The undisputed star of this piece is the manually wound calibre L951.5 that is engraved and finished by hand, boasting a columnwheel construction as well as a flyback function.

TIME

ROOKIE REIGN

Debut collections that are bound for horological greatness TEXT: JOSHUA YAP

BR 123

BR 126

BELL & ROSS Vintage BR 123 and 126 Heritage

BR 123 (chronograph) and 126 (small seconds version) bear the quiet austerity of vintage pilotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s watches and exude consummate military vim with their matte black carbonfinished cases and tan leather straps.

LOUIS VUITTON Tambour Spin Time GMT

Spin Time employs 12 rotating cubes to display the hour in 24-hour format while its minute hand and yellow GMT hand move along in a conventional manner.

CARTIER

Calibre de Cartier The automatic Calibre 1904 MC in Calibre de Cartier is the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first in-house movement. It features an innovative pawl system for faster winding, bi-directional winding system and ceramic ball bearings for improved shock resistance.

TWIST AND CLOUT Freewheeling tourbillons in stirring design-driven executions TEXT: JOSHUA YAP

ROGER DUBUIS

Excalibur Pierced Tourbillon On top of a flying tourbillon making a full turn every 60 seconds, Roger Dubuisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Excalibur Pierced Tourbillon features a micro-rotor on its dial that whirls freely with every flick of the wrist, powering the new RD520 movement with up to 60 hours of power reserve.

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph

Audemars Piguet outdoes itself with the Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph. An anthology of APâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest achievements, it features a fusion of pink gold, forged carbon fibre and ceramic, and a manualwinding Calibre 2912 endowed with a 237hour power reserve and tourbillon.

TIME

READY TO ROLL

Motor-racing-inspired watches at the starting grid of desire TEXT: ALVIN WONG

AUDEMARS PIGUET

Royal Oak Offshore Grand Prix Collection

One finds dashboard instruments, ventilation vents, wheel rims and plenty of motor racing inspired accents in this Offshore newbie. Sheathed in forged carbon, the watches are driven by the automatic Calibre 3126/3840, the same motor inside existing Offshores. Limited to 1,750 pieces in all-forged carbon, 650 pieces in pink gold and 75 pieces in platinum.

HUBLOT

F1 King Power The F1 King Power is this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s official F1 watch. This explains its holier-than-thou swagger, cloaked in satin-finished Zirconium and a ceramic bezel that looks like a car brake assembly. The eye-catching chronograph also features pushers shaped like the buttons of an F1 racerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s steering wheel and strap made with Nomex, the same material on F1 racing suits.

HANDLE WITH CARE

Patek Philippe’s advice to care for a prized timepiece to last generations gets some help from premium grade watch winders TEXT: WONG KEE SOON

1. SWISSKUBIK

2. BUBEN&ZORWEG

3. ERWIN SATTLER

4. BOXY

Swisskubik injects pop colours in its aluminium watch winders. Available in 12 colours and USBenabled, they allow the user to program the number and direction of winding rotations. Available for personalisation with wood, leather and pop art prints.

A plush showpiece for the stylish home, the Solitaire integrates B&Z’s third generation tourbillon clock, high security safe, hi-fi system, bar, humidor and alarm system. Not forgetting automatic winding slots for 38 watches.

Clockmaker Erwin Sattler’s Rotalis 30 features 30 watch winders behind two 18mm thick bulletproof glass panels fortified by a high security fingerprint reader. The Rotalis 30 also features three precision mechanical instruments: Sattler clock, barometer and thermometer.

The Lego of watch winders, Boxy’s Brick Winders are based on a modular system that stacks up to 12 winders in various formations. The best bit is that the entire system requires only one power adaptor.

Single Watch Winder

Solitaire Orbit Tourbillon

Rotalis 30

Brick Winder System

Clockwise from left: EMP O R I O AR M ANI AR0476 two-time zone watch in stainless steel with black leather strap, CK Strive Gent in stainless steel and black leather strap, GUCCI G-Timeless chronograph in stainless steel with black rubber strap

Umpire

State Of

Mind Whatever your game, meet your match with these quietly chic weekend watches

PHOTOGRAPHY: MUNSTER AND LONG FEI/T2 PICTURES STYLING: WEILUN TEXT: ANDRE FROIS

Clockwise from top: CA S I O GLX 5500 in black rubberised case EPOS Sophistiquée in stainless steel with black leather strap, DIESEL DZ4172 in stainless steel with black leather strap

TECH

PARANOID ANDROIDS Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t trust the iPhone 4? Opt for a smart phone with reliable Android operating system and more exciting apps TEXT: ALVIN WONG

HTC

SONY ERICSSON

For socially evolved urbanites who need Facebook like computers need power sockets, the Wildfire is their ticket to a cyberspace group hug. Based on the HTC Sense platform, the Wildfire organises content from social networking websites, and text and email exchanges with its Friend Stream technology. It also allows one to share apps with fellow users â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a first for Android smart phones.

Slightly thicker than a credit card, the X10 Mini Pro is the tiniest Android phone on the market. It is not, however, a watered down version of the X10. Packing plenty of chic, with optional coloured cases, this diminutive workhorse features a small but smooth interface that saps less energy from its 600MHz processor.

Wildfire

Xperia X10 Mini Pro

SAMSUNG

MOTOROLA

Smart phones are not substitutes for home entertainment systems but this certainly is a nudge in that direction. The first Android smart phone with a built-in projector, the Galaxy Beam not only helps alleviate lonely nights and blank walls, it also offers a host of high-end features such as Samsung’s proprietary AMOLED technology for vivid colour display and eight megapixel camera with autofocus and flash.

If you are thinking of an iPhone for your first smart phone – don’t, says LG. Instead it proposes the Optimus, a starter-kit option for tentative newbies. Simplicity is the Optimus’ greatest draw, featuring pre-loaded apps like Wapedia and Movie Finder, SNS widgets for instant access to social networks and an extremely user- friendly interface.

Arguably the hardest working phone in show business, the Milestone chalks up impressive performance ratings with a high-resolution pinchand-zoom screen, high-definition camcorder and – if you happen to be in Singapore – access to 24 mobile channels from cable TV provider Starhub.

Galaxy Beam

Optimus

Milestone XT

SENSATIONS

STAR GAZING A primer to restaurants with Michelin-starred influences across Asia TEXT: NAOMI NGUI

GUY SAVOY SANTI YAN TOH HEEN MING COURT L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON SIGNATURE

MICHELIN guide ®

SINGAPORE

GUY SAVOY Guy Savoy at Marina Bay Sands has a stunning view of Singapore’s skyline and nouvelle cuisine that mirrors the three-Michelin-starred Guy Savoy in Paris. Executive Chef Eric Bost, formerly from Restaurant Guy Savoy in Las Vegas, maintains the menu of luxurious treats from artichoke and black truffle soup with toasted mushroom brioche and black truffle butter for starters, to Brittany blue lobster with heirloom carrots for mains. A highlight is the dessert trolley filled macarons, tarts, gateaux, pralines and puddings. A tea degustation menu of 20 teas from around the world is also available.

Artichoke and black truffle soup

Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Avenue Tel: 6688 8513

SANTI Santi Santamaria, the first three-Michelin-star Catalan chef, operates from the mezzanine level of Marina Bay Sands. The contemporary restaurant has striking black and white ‘graffiti’ design and views of the bay. The tapas bar and a lounge area are excellent venues for pre- and post-dinner drinks. The menu comprises “refined contemporary cuisine with Catalan origins and a creative Asian interpretation”, and pairs local produce with Spanish olive oil, ham and red wine. Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Avenue Tel: 6688 8501

HONG KONG

YAN TOH HEEN Diners get to sample exquisite Cantonese cuisine at one-Michelin-star Yan Toh Heen, boasting harbour views and superb service. Veteran Chef Lau Yiu Fai prepares dishes including golden scallops and minced shrimp with pear, sautéed wagyu beef, mushroom and shishito pepper, garoupa rolls filled with walnuts, Yunnan Ham and flowering chives in a black truffle crystal glaze, and poached lobster and bird’s nest in egg white. The restaurant is also famous for seafood. Intercontinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Kowloon Tel: +852 2313 2323

Sauteed lobster with crab roe and fresh milk Yan Toh Heen with harbour view

Deep-fried lobster with cheese and simmered abalone with vinegar accompanied with angel hair pasta

MING COURT One Michelin star Ming Court is known for luxurious dim sum, plush ambience and refined service. Steamed dumplings with shark’s fin and diced mushroom filling; conpoy, ham and bamboo pith in consomme; and shrimp dumplings with bamboo shoot lavish five-star ingredients on common dim sum. Other items on the menu include deep-fried lobster with cheese and simmered abalone, served with deep-fried mashed taro. Ask for the Shark’s Fin Flight featuring braised shark’s fin in chicken stock; stir-fried shark’s fin with crab meat; and steamed shrimp ball wrapped in shark’s fin with egg white sauce. Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai Street, Mongkok, Kowloon Tel: +852 3552 3300

Shark’s fin flight

SENSATIONS

JAPAN L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON French culinary supremo Chef Joel Robuchon’s Tokyo outlet in Roppongi Hills merited two Michelin stars and draws guests with its open kitchen concept and impeccable tapas-style presentation. The French menu is regularly updated with fresh seasonal ingredients. For variety, the four-course prix-fixe dinner menu is recommended. The restaurant doesn’t take reservations, so it’s best to get there early. Mori Tower, Roppongi Hills, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku Tel: +81 3 5772 7500

Pigeon with cocoa crust

SIGNATURE Perched on the 37th floor of Mandarin Oriental in Tokyo, Signature is a one Michelin star restaurant serving French-Mediterranean-inspired cuisine. Chef Olivier Rodriguez surprises guests with textures and flavours of signature dishes such as roasted pigeon breast crusted with cocoa nibs and sauce, as well as broiled and sauteed foie gras served with cherry puree and red wine cinnamon reduction. Mandarin Oriental Tokyo, 2-1-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo-ku Tel: +81 3 3270 8188

Foie gras two-ways

SENSATIONS

SPIRITS MOVE ME

Where are some of the town’s best vodka, whiskey and cognac reserves? The answers are a little more surprising than commonly presumed TEXT: LI HAOHAN

There is

no shortage of opinion on the best food to consume before drinking but expert advice and common wisdom have it that milk and dairy products are the best because the fats they contain line the inner surface of the stomach evenly. Eating before drinking helps lessen the harmful effects of alcohol on your body, particularly your stomach lining. Other foods, meanwhile, must also be consumed to steel oneself for the ugly realities of the morning after. Dehydration, vitamin depletion and formation of toxins from metabolised alcohol produce a highly unpleasant sensation following a drinking spree. Taking Berocca and lots of water help restore Vitamin B levels and alleviate dehydration. Thus warned, my new friends and I embarked on a night of vodka-whiskey-cognac hunt – not so much to test our kidneys and bladders, but to put to rest the myth that these spirits can only be enjoyed in rarefied gentlemen’s clubs.

TIMELESS SHOOTERS

Hard Rock Cafe

Three words: Hard Rock Cafe. Air guitar, rock ballads, mullet hairdo, MTV – images that make people wince at the mention of the ‘90s are surprisingly the very same ones that keep people coming to this place. And at Hard Rock Cafe at Resorts World Sentosa, such arcana actually become interesting. The family restaurant has a convivial air and both the bar and the kitchen serve delicious cocktails and (deep-fried) food. Our first drink for the night was Sex on the Beach with vodka, peach schnapps and grenadine served as a shooter, a ‘90s styling of the highball drink with creme de cassis, cranberry and orange juice. We downed this after a hefty helping of fried seafood starters and one of the most delicious, medium rare burgers I have tasted. In short order, we were ready for the night. HARD ROCK CAFE SENTOSA Festive Walk #01-209-214, Resorts World Sentosa Tel: 6795 7454

PICTURES COURTESY OF BEAM GLOBAL ASIA

Barretto

VODKA COCKTAILS Barretto is housed in the same building as fine restaurants Absinthe (French) and OSO (Italian). With Chef Diego Chiarini helming OSO and Chef Francois Mermilliod Absinthe, the Bukit Pasoh outpost attracts gourmet traffic. But that is not to say that Barretto is the trio’s odd man. It has a wellstocked bar, comfortable smoking room and knowledgeable service staff. Modern paintings hang on its walls while club chairs and couches are grouped about its roomy central section. The Macallan private room upstairs, which seats parties of eight to 18, is ideal for stealth dinners, especially as it has its own toilet and bar facilities. Bartender service can be arranged and food supplied by two superb kitchens, needless to say, is top-notch. Barretto has novelty cocktails like the Yellow Jacket made with Russian Standard vodka, jackfruit and chilli, as well as a martini-laced wasabi, but I ordered a Russian Standard Sour to cleanse my palate. Although vodka sour only calls for vodka, sugar syrup and citrus juice –others use grenadine syrup and sweet and sour mix – the challenge is to balance the ingredients to create a drink with a lingering finish. The Barretto version is garnished with a lemon slice and cherry but at least it has a good finish on top of an impressive zing of vodka. A sip of my friend’s Wasabi Martini convinced me that vodka cocktails here are clean, fortified and have a good structure. BARRETTO 46 Bukit Pasoh Road Tel: 6222 9096

Olde Cuban

NEAT WHISKIES

Our designated driver brought us to our final destination way past midnight, a videoke bar’s second location on the edge of Little India. Le Bar II is the mecca for fearsome Cantopop belters, but it is arguably one of the most welcoming places in Singapore. The space is well-designed, with a raised area separated by a low wall of frosted glass designated as the Courvoisier Lounge. Several TV screens mounted high on the walls play mostly Cantonese pop music videos to which patrons sing along with enviable bravado. Whenever a popular refrain played, the entire room broke into an impromptu chorus. The premier libation here is Courvoisier VSOP Exclusive, designed for cocktails but can be enjoyed on its own. Patrons of Le Bar have taken to mixing it with water, fragrant green tea or sparkling apple juice. This easy DIY ‘cocktail’ is refreshing, sweet, fragrant yet strong enough to inspire wallflowers to bust their lungs over an Alex To ballad.

Olde Cuban flourishes in Chinatown, an unlikely spot for a cigar and whiskey bar. The revamped facility – once an opium den – now boasts a spacious central hall, humidors and private rooms. The seafood restaurant below, also run by the same owner, keeps customers upstairs filled with mostly local favourites. But you really come here either for the top-grade, limited edition and aged cigars or the range of premium single malt whiskies. Single malts are blended with ingredients from a single distillery, likely with whiskies from different casks and ages that the master blender combines for a recognisable character. We tasted the 12-year-old Macallan Sherry Oak, a well-rounded whiskey with notes of butter and caramel. It is the kind of drink cigar smokers will enjoy as it stimulates the salivary glands – an ideal state for fully savouring cigars. I took mine neat but my friends asked for water and ice. Next up was Japanese whiskey Yamazaki from the Suntory Distillery. Japanese whiskey is finally getting overdue attention from aficionados for its character and structure. The 12 year-old Yamazaki is distinctively fruitier and sharper with a well-defined structure. A point to ponder: whiskies age and therefore develop their distinctive character in casks, not in bottles. Laphroaig Quarter Cask is aged in a much smaller quarter barrel, which greatly determines its intensity. It is pungent, nutty and has very unusual medicinal overtones that may take getting used to. But the overall sensation is distinctive, one that may require several sips to comprehend.

LE BAR II 70 Prinsep Street Tel: 6333 3559

OLDE CUBAN 2 Trengganu Street, #02-01 Tel: 6222 2207

Le Bar II

COGNAC MIXERS

SCENE

LOUIS VUITTON

Fall/Winter 2010 Presentation, Tokyo

PICTURES COURTESY OF LOUIS VUITTON

Louis Vuitton menswear director Paul Helbers premieres his Fall collection in the brand’s Omotesando store and coins it ‘Bleisure’, a hybrid of business and casual aesthetics KK

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Global Concept Store Opening, Shanghai Ermenegildo Zegna’s centennial party continues from Milan to Shanghai where the brand’s first Peter Marino-designed global concept store was unveiled. KK Su You Peng Roisin Murphy

Leon Lai and Anna Zegna Chen Hong and husband Chen Kaige

Kane Kosugi

Shanghai party

Z. Zegna Shanghai finale E.Zegna collection finale

PICTURES COURTESY OF ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

The Zegna family

OASIS GALLERY Official Opening

Oasis Galleryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s debut showing in May, The Awakening, by New York native artist Jose Maria Bustos is a socio-politically charged collection with spiritual undertones JY Jose Maria Bustos

Eric Tan and Serena Adsit

SIERRA

Julia Pang and May Oon

(From left) Heloiza Montuori, Silvana Edwards and Catherine Macmeekin

(From left) Shaun Sharome, Casey Chua, Eric Yue, Steven Shan and Peter Chion THE PEACE

(From left) Jessica Tang, Simon Lim and Doreen Oh

Karen Wee and Patricia Tai

PICTURES COURTESY OF OASIS GALLERY

Niki Harding and Lawrence Harding

SCENE

FRANCK MULLER at Boat Asia 2010

Franck Muller enlivened Boat Asia 2010 as official timepiece sponsor, stealing the show with a showcase of its Mariner chronographs and novelties as well as a charity auction of its Casablanca timepiece JY

La Perla fashion show featuring Franck Muller timepieces

Kevin Chau (chairman of Franck Muller Asia) and Ong Ban (CEO of Sincere Watch Limited)

Mariner collection

(From left) O Wee Yong, Benjamin Lim, Sean Eee, Daniel Koh, Ong Ban, Winson Tan and Foo Seck Tong Mr & Mrs K.C. Wee and Tay Kok Choon

Boat Asia 2010

PICTURES COURTESY OF FRANCK MULLER ASIA

Kevin Chau and guests

SCENE

GUCCI

Timepieces Event

Gucci Timepiecesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; announcement of its regional partnership with Pacific Time was aided by celebrities flaunting its Spring/Summer outfits and Basel 2010 novelties JY Shaun Chen and Soo Wei The Gucci Timepieces event was held at Zambuca restaurant at Pan Pacific Hotel

(From left) Rebecca Tan, Shaun Chen, Vicent Hoon, Franciane Guibert, Sharon Lim, Felicia Chin, Thomas Ong and Katia Ciconetti

Shaun Chen wearing an I-Gucci watch

Felicia Chin and Thomas Ong

Rebecca Tan

PICTURES COURTESY OF PACIFIC TIME

(From left) Katia Ciconetti, Sharon Lim and Franciane Guibert

THE ART OF …

GOING IT ALONE TEXT: LI HAOHAN

The once hallowed territory With social networks on overdrive, there’s marked ‘private’ is shrinking by hardly any moment when you can tune out to hear your own much less process them. Yes, you can select your the hour. It’s time to defend it thoughts privacy settings and de-friend people, but they will always be there buzzing, tracking your moves, commenting on your photos and giving your status the thumbs up. For all their noble intentions, social networks that aim to unite like-minded people have turned into tawdry confessionals. (“I hate women drivers,” rants one Facebook member. It elicited 11 thumbs up, and a chain of 32 comments.) It’s pervasive; it’s insidious and it makes occasion of the commonplace. (“Behind Jay Chou at a supermarket…,” a Twitter feed announces. Twelve comments followed.) Through them, people have found a way of thwarting your best efforts at attaining cerebral hygiene with the minutiae of their lives in the form of 140-byte feeds. (Bought iPad!!! Woohoo!, exclaims another Facebook post.) Those who refuse the receiving end of what should have been an exchange are quickly dismissed as anti-social, a pejorative term that has – not surprisingly – since lost its sting. I have been called anti-social on account of my inability to enjoy company-sponsored socials, the type where you stand around a punch bowl and tentatively trade blather. But even before that discovery, various recluses have always been my heroes: Emerson on Walden Pond, Garbo in NYC, Harper Lee in Monroeville, JD Salinger in New Hampshire. In them I find courage and true grit rather than insecurity cloaked as conformism cloaked as all-around amiability. Just think, even Jesus went to the desert for 40 days to clear his head; wouldn’t this world be a better place if opinion mongers took just a couple of days off to actually think before they return to tweeting? It is difficult to go it alone. Social structures will test your fortitude whenever you dine, watch a play or go to a polo match without company. Even an innocent stroll in the park on your own is suspect. People expect you to have company; hosts encourage you to bring someone along. If you happen to sit next to an empty chair, your crestfallen hostess will move things around to find you a suitable seatmate and, hopefully, a future match.

As I will not suffer fools gladly or endure a boring conversation, I devised the following to protect my precious solitude. Firstly, remain accommodating to reasonable requests. Most people will not quit until they get through to you, until they feel you’re friends. Secondly, don’t call attention to yourself. People are naturally curious and will not stop probing until they feel they’ve solved the mystery. Thirdly, if all else fails, tell them that for reasons relating to race or creed, you are not joining the company chorale. They’ll get the hint. So as the self-appointed leader in your office collects the six-odd members of his platoon of co-dependents, whose ritual cafeteria lunches are the highlights of their working lives, roll up your copy of the Financial Times and know in your heart that instead of mindless patter you will find a column inch or two of lucid intellectual display. Remember: People who need people are just needy people.

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