Page 1

OCTOBER 2019


O C T O B E R 2 01 9

ISSUE 09

Catwalk, climate, questions.

FOLLOW ME: @nicolaprohair FOLLOW PRO HAIR MAG:

With the climate crisis and sustainability at the forefront of everyone’s mind right now, who could ignore the urgent ecological questions that were hanging over the recent Spring/Summer 2020 London Fashion Week. With environmental activists from Extinction Rebellion a constant presence outside various shows, the group was pretty effective in questioning the raison d’etre of the fashion industry. And, of course, they are right – reflective of current culture, the fashion industry does need to change and become more eco aware. It is obviously not going to happen overnight – the British Fashion Council and some designers are starting to address their eco responsibilities and focussing on more sustainable practices such as recycling and using fabrics and dyes that are less harmful to the environment. But it is baby steps – as in the hair industry, we all need to start doing our bit, no matter how small it may be. With our Sustainable Salon Life initiative, we want to help salons think about what steps, albeit baby ones, they can undertake. This issue our very own Eco Columnist, Karine Jackson, pulls up plastic in salons – you must read it on page 69 – it’s a real call to plastic action!

OCTOBER 2019

COVER: Paul Mitchell’s A/W 2019 Wanderlust Collection

@ProHairMag @ProHairMag

Editor Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk

REGULARS 6

Assistant Editor Megan Danskine

NEWS Industry going’s on

mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk Digital Manager

PEOPLE

Ruth Williams Digital Assistant Rebecca Mcgeoch Designer Donna Booth Group Production Manager Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell Printer Walstead Roche Ltd Publisher Bryan Shannon Group Sales Manager Oliver Shannon oshannon@hamerville.co.uk

9

HOOKER & YOUNG With Akin Konizi

COLOUR

PRODUCTS

22 COLOUR CLOSE-UP With Paul Mitchell

66 What’s New

24 A/W COLOUR SPECIAL

SUSTAINABLE SALON LIFE

32 COLOUR CLOSE-UP With #mydentity

14 THE SALON CHAMPION With Andrew Barton

FASHION

16 GIFTED & TALENTED With Rory Mason

37 ON TREND

17 ZOE IRWIN Trend Talking

36 DESMOND MURRAY COLLECTIONS

MENS SPECIAL

20 TREND SPOTTING With BaByliss PRO

54 MEN’S NEWS & PRODUCTS 55 MEN’S TALK & COLLECTION with Jamie Stevens 62 MALE TRENDS

68 SPOTLIGHT ON Affinage 69 GREEN QUEEN KARINE

BUSINESS 70 Phil Smith 71 Michael Smith 72 Trisha Buller 73 Debbie Digby 74 Training

National Sales Executive Alana Asher aasher@hamerville.co.uk

WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK Subscriptions to Professional Hairdresser are avaliable at the following rates: UK: 1 year - £30 post paid Europe and Overseas: 1 year - £50 post paid AIRMAIL: 1 year - £65 post paid. To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.couk.

Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799 Fax: 01923 246901

©2019 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be acceoted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.

14,777

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 5


@ProHairMag

@ProHairMag

WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

THE LATEST FROM THE INDUSTRY

Tbh -true beautiful honest launches in London

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL CELEBRATES ITS NEWEST COLOUR LAUNCH AT THE SECRET GARDEN. Tim Scott-Wright, the Schwarzkopf Professional Team and guests headed to the gorgeous Secret Garden in South Place Hotel, London for the exciting launch of new colour range tbh – true beautiful honest. All about looking natural, Tim talked about what the range is bringing to his salon and how it sits in his colour portfolio. He brought the range to life on three models, a brunette, a blonde, and a red head and explained that we should think of tbh like: “A lip gloss rather than a lipstick.” It is a permanent colour range but sits on the hair like a semi-permanent. It’ll cover grey, yet it won’t hide the hair’s natural highs and lows. tbh – true beautiful honest is the ‘bare minerals’ of the colour world, giving you a look that’s totally natural. Think Victoria Beckham, Kate Moss, Julianne Moore and Cate Blanchett.” He continued “it’s actually quite a skill to be able to create a hair colour that doesn’t look like its been coloured or cosmetic, but thanks to tbh – true beautiful honest it’s now easier than every to create these natural, unfiltered and lived-in looks clients are requesting more and more of. The tbh – true beautiful honest shade references are also based on the Schwarzkopf Professional existing numbering system, meaning all stylists from the juniors to more senior can use this range with ease.”

ELECTRIC IN SESSION ELECTRIC LONDON HOSTS ITS FIRST GLOBAL SUMMIT. Guests from across the UK, America and Canada headed down to Brighton for the very first Electric London Global Summit. The four day event had an action packed itinerary, including look and learn seminars, educational events, creative photoshoots and, of course, some partying. Hosted by Electric London Founder and International Creative Director Mark Woolley, the summit took place in the renovated barn that is the future Electric HQ. On arrival in sunny Brighton guests were invited to a late afternoon soiree to meet one another before the events got into full swing. The first day was an Electric London shoot day, while the second was all about the Electric Summer Sessions party – a one day festival with hundreds of hairdressers, journalists and industry influencers all in attendance. On the third day the Electric team presented the trends for this season

ASP Colour Masters The first group of graduates from ASP’s brand new colour course have been announced

Launched earlier this year the ASP Colour Master Course by Affinage Salon Professional is a four month intensive training journey. The in-depth colour training, workshops and assignments cover Perfecting Blonde, Balayage and Blend, Colour Cocktails, Colour Correction and Advanced Creative Colouring. The first group of talented students who have graduated from this colour bootcamp have been announced as: Nicola Hamm of Kristel Hair, Kelly Eggar of Sage Hair Design, Tash Williams of Zoology, Magdalena Zachwieja of onetwosix Hair Studio, Cristina Dulgheriu of onetwosix Hair Studio, Charmaine Gully of Cox & Co Salon and Shannen Haynes.

6 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

and how to translate them back in the salon while the final day was an up close and personal semiar with DJ Muldoon, Mark and the Electric London Artistic Team. Mark Woolley commented on the summit: “Over the past ten years Electric London has become a global business brand; this Global Summit was the ideal time to invite our growing family in the USA and Canada to experience Electric London in its own home. We worked hard to develop an itinerary that really gave our guests a feel for the Electric Family, pushed their creativity, inspired them to share our philosophy with their own team when they returned home, and, of course, eperience the great British lifestyle. At Electric London we’re building something special; we are exciting, innovative, British, independent and authentic, so to be able to share this with our Electric Family across the world was truly great.”

Global Ambassador for ASP Tracey Devine-Smith said: “To become a Colour Master requires a lot of commitment and students really do need to push their creative and technical skills to the max. Our first group of students was incredible and should be very proud of this achievement. They were put to the test and rose to the challenge. Congratulations to them all.”


GETTING TO KNOW YOUR CUSTOMERS DAY HAIR & VISION

HITS CARDIFF THE FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BROUGHT HAIR & VISION TO THE HOME OF PRESIDENT KEN PICTON, FOR ITS LATEST EVENT. The Fellowship for British Hairdressing headed to the hometown of President Ken Picton for its latest Hair & Vision event. There was a star-studded line up of local and national talent on the night, including special guest Jamie Stevens who was interviewed about his career and life with the Fellowship. Held at the Cornerstone converted chapel, guest artist Zoe Williams from Ken Picton Salon was first to present, creating two colourful looks in coral and aquamarine. Tia Liddiard from Jason Liddiard then created a bright red style with frizzed out lengths, and a sharp bold blunt bob. Guests were also treated to presentations by local boy Ian Davies from Ocean Hairdressing, Danilo Giangreco from Danilo Hair Boutique, Casey Coleman from Chair Salons, Noel Halligan from NOCU and Luke Hawkins from the Marvellous Hair Company. Then, it was time to catch up with Jamie Stevens, whose career has been supported by the Fellowship since his earliest days on the F.A.M.E. Team. Ken quizzed Jamie about his career, goals, inspirations and challenges, for an insightful look back at the exciting world of one of British hairdressing’s greats.

How well do you know your clients? Make a date in your diary for Get to Know Your Customers Day on 17 October as a reminder of how important it is to provide an amazing experience for your clients every time they visit. A recent Beautiful Britain Report by Sally Salon Services found that women value having a good relationship with their hair/beauty professional. It’s even more important to them than price so great social skills are key for maintaining client loyalty. But how can you create that ‘special relationship’ with your clients that will keep them coming back and attract more word-of-mouth recommendations? Personalise your service Always do a consultation before every appointment. Never assume longstanding clients will always want ‘the same again’ – they may secretly aspire to a whole new look and may find it easier to go to a different salon than to raise the subject with you. A detailed consultation will also demonstrate to new clients that you run a professional salon that is able to give expert advice and really listen to what clients want. Find out more about client consultations: nhf.info/client-consultation It’s good to talk Try to keep up with your clients’ lives. For example, make a mental note of the conversations you have with clients at previous appointments so you can ‘pick up where you left off’ next time they visit. They will then feel appreciated as an individual rather than just another client. Get some client loyalty lessons: nhf.info/client-loyalty Appointment follow-ups Always send out a feedback request to your clients after an appointment. Keep it simple and fast to do – for example, ask for a star rating of between one and five and ask if they were happy with the end result. Follow up bad feedback as soon as possible so you can put things right and turn a negative into a positive. Not sure how to handle client complaints? Find out more: nhf.info/complaints Discover what your clients really think Find out what your clients think by employing a mystery shopper who will be able to give you an independent assessment of the client journey in your salon. You can then act on the findings of the report to make improvements and address any problem areas. Find out more about the mystery shopping services offered by NHF/NBF Trade member Hidden Beauty: nhf.info/mystery-shoppers The NHF/NBF offers a range of business support services for hair and beauty salons, from legal, employment and financial guidance to discounted insurance and expert advice for managing people and boosting your business. www.nhf.info


PEOPLE

HOOKER AND YOUNG

Akin Konizi Akin Konizi Mr Akin Konizi, one of the most influential hairdressers of his time. A multi-award winning entrepreneur who takes his craft and the hairdressing industry incredibly seriously. Akin has achieved awe-inspiring things throughout his career and helped shape the future of so many careers around the world. We were so thrilled to grab the opportunity to sit with our good friend Akin to get the low down on the past, present and future from the man himself. Gary: So, to start, how did you first get into the industry? Akin: I’m 56 now and I’ve been in the industry since I was 17. I originally wanted to be a fashion designer; I loved fabrics and different textures – I even started getting into tailoring and altering my own clothes. At the age of 12, I was a rockabilly with a quiff, which was quite unusual in those days – especially at my school! When I was 17, I enrolled at the London College of Fashion, but my family were in the clothing trade and advised me against a career in such a hard-fought industry.  Then, by chance, I visited a distant cousin who owned a salon and it just turned my world upside down. It was 1979 and unisex salons were still very new. I can just remember walking in and seeing the girls and boys, hearing the music and feeling the atmosphere. It felt like I was in a club and I was just blown away by it all. I knew this was what I wanted to do. I was unsuccessful at my first few interviews, which nearly made me give up, but thankfully was given a chance by John Rawson at his academy in Leicester Square. At the time, John was one of the best hairdressers in the world and to be taught by him I just felt like the luckiest kid on the planet. I loved it from the minute I arrived and it really changed me as a person. 

Gary: What was your next move when you completed your training? Akin: I knew that before I settled down to work in one salon I wanted to get a number of different experiences, so I worked at various salons for eight months each. I settled down a bit at Ocean Boulevard in Covent Garden, which was a bit like the Club Tropicana of hairdressing with palm trees in the salon and we’d all be wearing beachwear or Hawaiian clothes, it was a lot of fun. I’ve never told anyone this before, but I also changed my name while I was working there as the guy who owned it liked his team to adopt a character, so I used to call myself Red! I worked there for about 18 months and started to do some photographic work and some shows, but by the age of 22 I felt quite unhappy there; and I decided to leave the industry.  Michael: What prompted that? Akin: The salon owner was really lovely, but I just found myself losing my motivation. I tried going freelance, but I hated it – I’ve always been very specific about how I work, so washing hair over the bath or cutting hair on a kitchen chair didn’t feel right.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 9


Just at this time I was introduced to Clive Collins and Paul Simbler. They had just opened a salon in Mill Hill, North London, called Hair on Broadway. I worked there for a couple of years and I really enjoyed that feeling of being a bigger fish in a smaller pond. However, when I turned 24 I decided to branch out on my own. I found a great old Victorian building in Islington and I decorated it exactly how I wanted it to be; wicker chairs, one long mirror and wooden floors. It was called ‘Konizi’. As far as I was concerned, if it looked trendy then it was going to be successful. I learned the hard way that owning a salon is not just about being busy but much more about making sure everyone else in your team is busy and I ended up killing myself with the amount of work. Clive and Paul would come and visit me every couple of weeks as they missed me, and I really missed them, but I resisted going back for three years.  Gary: Three years is a long time to stick it out for.  Akin: My problem was that my ego meant I couldn’t leave it as a failure, so I had to try and make it work so I could sell it. Eventually, one of my stylists bought it from me and I re-joined Clive and Paul, who now had two salons. I bought into the business and we became three equal partners, and changed the name to HOB. Over the next few years, we opened seven more salons and our academy. 

Michael: What prompted the decision to open your own academy? Akin: It was something that I had always wanted to do and it felt like quite a natural next step. I knew I wanted it to be in Camden because of the high footfall of models, but finding the right premises was difficult. I’m also not very good with budgets, as I like things to be a certain way and don’t like to compromise, but despite the difficulties we believe that opening the academy has definitely helped us to be successful. Gary: It is an amazing space, you’ve done a fabulous job.  Akin: Thank you. I helped to design the academy. I had the idea of adding a mezzanine floor that would enable staff and students to watch others learning downstairs. I wanted it to feel like a friendly meeting place where everyone can come together to talk and support one another as I feel that is really important – for the whole industry and just our business.  Michael: I think it is fair to say that it used to be quite cloak and dagger within the industry and people wouldn’t want to share their techniques or ideas but I think that has changed now thankfully and there are now so many more good hairdressers because of that.    Akin: I agree. Back when I first started you had a very small pool of elite hairdressers who were at the very top. I think this changed with the introduction

of the Fellowship, as that, alongside the launch of the BHAs, has been hugely instrumental in bringing people and ideas together and progressing the entire industry. Gary: I agree completely. Both the Fellowship and the BHAs have their critics, but they’ve been so important to us over the years. Akin: Absolutely. I wouldn’t be here today without the platform that the Fellowship and BHAs have provided. I just think that anyone who criticises them just hasn’t realised how important they are yet.  Gary: That brings me onto something that I wanted to ask you. There are now a number of competitions available to enter, do you see a value in them?  Akin: Of course. There are lots of different types of hairdressers and all will be motivated by different things, but to be a successful hairdresser or salon or even a spaghetti bolognaise, you need a recipe and creativity. Without the creativity in a hairdresser you don’t get the passion, without the creativity in a business you don’t get the development and without the creativity in spaghetti bolognaise you don’t get the flavour and I believe that entering awards is a great way for hairdressers to showcase their creativity and, in turn, develop.  Michael: Would you say education is one of your strengths?


Gary: As an industry what do you think we can do to encourage more people into it?

Akin: Education has always excited me. I have always been a very creative person, but I am also very driven by the process and I don’t leave anything to chance. I believe that everything has a formula for success – especially a haircut – understanding what you did enables you to recreate the haircut again and again. Our whole business is based around KFC (not the fried chicken company!). It stands for Kindness, Fairness and Confidence. They are the most important things in everything we do, not only in business but as individuals too. It forms the backbone of our education, how I teach and how I manage people. In addition, I also believe that hairdressing is not just about working with hair – it’s important to understand people’s aspirations and needs as a human being, not just as another client. Gary: That’s very true, training doesn’t tend to include how important it is to deal with people and their feelings.

Michael: Do you think the same could be said for social media? Akin: I am seeing an increasing number of people who are ‘learning’ from YouTube and I find that really sad, because I don’t think you can learn the right techniques to cut someone’s hair properly just by watching a video. I recently judged ‘Assistant of the Year’ at the BHBAs and one of the finalists had learned how to fade by watching educational videos on YouTube, but as soon as you asked him to do anything more complicated, he was stuck. Michael: I couldn’t agree more and it’s the same with blow dries, it is so important that people learn and understand the basics and you can only do that by practising, you can’t learn it in front of your computer. Gary: So, you have 25 salons now, how much does each salon get of your time?  Akin: Not as much as I would like. It is my ambition over the next few years to get back into the salons as much as possible, but it’s hard. This year I started joining the education team when they do salon visits, which I have really enjoyed. Michael: We’ve interviewed lots of people now and one of the things that almost all of them say is that it is so hard to get good staff, how do you cope? Akin: It is exactly the same for us. Getting good staff is important but teaching them and then keeping them is incredibly important and is the best way to go. The difficult thing at present seems to be finding those people who are motivated, willing to learn and want to get better. We have lots of staff who have gone somewhere else and then come back. It is only natural that people may want to go and try something different, but we make it very clear to them that the door is always open if they would like to return and it is surprising just how many do.

Akin: I think that we need to be as professional as possible to make sure we motivate clients to have haircuts and hairstyles that make them look and feel good. I think that letting people just have long hair and balayage has been the slow death of our industry for a number of years now. Unfortunately there’s a whole generation of hairdressers now that can only trim, fade and use irons, which is a problem. It’s also critical that we motivate younger people properly and get better at guiding them, directing them, and not being afraid of them. They are the next generation who will be further developing the high standards of the UK hairdressing industry. It’s the responsibility of each generation of hairdressers to ‘pass it on’…. But not just verbally… make sure they understand it! Gary: What does the future hold for you personally? Akin: I’ve got a few things, but I have learned over the years that you can’t ever plan too much as it never tends to work out quite as you planned. My life could go towards working more as an educator over the next 15 years as I’d love that. But I’d like to do it in a slightly more leisurely fashion and take my foot off the gas a little bit. I’m also continuing to do shows and travelling internationally, as I really enjoy seeing the world. I am also going to continue to build up my team and see more of the fantastic people we have in all of our salons.   When you’re in Akin’s company he appears to be a quiet type, certainly not someone who likes to shout about himself or his achievements. He is very methodical and believes everything should have a formula, a process if you like and it’s this very thing that has led him to such amazing success which to a degree has been a well thought out path. Akin feels a huge responsibility towards the future of our wonderful industry and believes we all owe it to each other to ensure the continued growth and professionalism of everything we have all worked together to achieve. A true hairdressing icon! We salute you Akin Konizi.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 11


Andrew Barton, Creative Director at Headmasters is championing the salon hairdresser and their place on the highstreet. Here he hails the stylist behind the chair…

The

Salon

We have an industry crisis; we don’t have enough hairdressers to service our client base – with less and less apprentices joining this worthy business. As an industry we need to look at what we focus on and celebrate who we reward and raise them on high as a role model for young people coming into the industry. While I think all parts of hairdressing are amazing and worth column inches, for too long the bias has been swayed towards session and backstage work, elevating it to a lofty position that has actually had a damaging effect on the status of the salon hairdresser. Glamourising this part of the industry to such a high fever-pitch has meant that many of our young talented hairdressers believe it’s the only route to a happy and successful career. We should also remember to champion the transformative work of the salon hairdresser. Social Media has helped to promote the transformation in the salon chair and democratise what we share as an industry, but we need to take this further as an industry and celebrate the work that is happening behind the salon chair every day, in all aspects of what we do. In our magazines, our awards and with our colour and product houses putting the salon hairdresser back at the front and centre of our craft.

14 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

If the session hairdresser is acclaimed as the leader of the pack above everything else, the salon work will always take a backseat. We need to focus on the salon hairdresser who everyday transforms not only a person’s look but also how they feel about themselves. I was talking to my colleague and Headmasters Colour Lead and Creative Ambassador Gareth Williams who said “I sometimes forget how lucky I am to do something that I love for a living. I feel so blessed that I get to chat to people, have fun, learn and get paid for it! I am so proud to be a hairdresser, knowing that I can make a difference to someone’s self-esteem, not simply doing their hair (which helps) but having meaningful conversations where I am listening. My clients are always so shocked when I bring up conversations from years ago and realise, I was 100% focused on them. I love what I do and actually I’m a real people’s person.” As a hairdresser I’ve worked with celebrities, on photoshoots and television which I love, however nothing replaces being in the salon and helping to transform someone; it’s very real and very raw. In session if you are working with a celebrity or a model, they are often very privileged and blessed socially and genetically, so the transformative effect can only go so far and not necessarily change their life (but may get them a great front cover). In the salon you are making a real difference to real people facing real challenges; if they go out of the door more confident than they came in your job is done. I am proud to champion confidence boosting hair every day in my Headmasters’ Mayfair Salon and across the Headmasters group. I have so much respect for the wonderful session world and the talented individuals in it but I also know there is so much under represented talent that also deserves a voice. Viva La revolution!


PEOPLE

RORY MASON IS A SENIOR STYLIST AND COLOUR TECHNICIAN AT THE AWARD-WINNING ASHLEY GAMBLE SALON IN SHIFNAL, SHROPSHIRE. HE IS A MEMBER OF THE FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING’S PROJECT X TEAM, AND IS A FINALIST FOR THE 2020 F.A.M.E. TEAM.

Gifted &Talented

Why I was attracted to hairdressing? I always used to love going to the hairdressers with my mother and watching in awe how she would turn up at the salon feeling low and glum, but leave transformed. She was always happiest after a full head of highlights, and I soon realised that I wanted to be able to do that for other people too. Seeing the social element of the salon and the showmanship of the hairdressers was so exciting to me. Having my own hair transformations soon became a way for me to express myself and my personality too, and I really loved that it provided the opportunity to do that. My first impression of the hairdressing world. When I started working as an apprentice, I suddenly realised just how much hard work there was to do before you were even allowed to get a pair of scissors in your hand! It also became apparent that you had to develop a backbone quite quickly if you really wanted to make something of yourself. However, the main thing I realised was just how welcoming all of the people I worked with were; they really did take me under their wing and help me with my journey, and I’ve continued to find the rest of the industry just as supportive and open. My training and the main lessons I’ve learnt. I consider myself incredibly lucky to have had one of the best hairdressing educations anyone could have asked for. Working at Royston Blythe at the start of my career gave me the boost I needed to get ahead. It’s where I first

16 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

met my now-manager Ashley Gamble, who became my mentor. I also assisted both Nick Malenko and then Royston himself. The in-house and one-on-one training I received at the salon from all of those people was really intense, but so much fun. I was also fortunate enough to assist them in fashion shows, shoots for Vogue, Elle and Cosmopolitan, and gained first-hand experience in photoshoots; right down to the very last step in making an award-winning collection. I even went away with Nick, Royston and Ashley to teach Bridal Hair Workshops up and down the UK. All of this happened before I was 19, and gave me the foundations to build my own style and be confident when approaching clients, whether that be in the salon or elsewhere. Early goals and how I achieved them. I was always very competitive, which has made me want to enter – and win – as many competitions as possible. Ashley was the first one to really believe in me, and generously gave me the start I needed. He helped me to understand that you can’t just go into competitions without really understanding the brief; your preparation is key. If you go onto the stage, into that room or in front of that camera unprepared, it’s never going to work. Because of this advice and guidance, I’ve been a finalist and/or won awards from L’Oréal Colour Trophy, Wella Trend Vision and awards from numerous magazines. I’ve also had my work published in print across most of the industry titles. I’m so fortunate as well to be part of the Fellowship for

British Hairdressing’s Project X 2019 Team this year, learning with some of the best mentors in the industry, and even got the opportunity to be on stage at Salon International. My future goals. The next step in my career is hopefully getting onto the F.A.M.E. Team. I’m a finalist this year and I’m working hard to make sure I impress. It’s all about model prep, stage rehearsals and of course, practise, practise, practise! I also want to work on more shoots, and create a collection that finalises in even more awards. My advice to someone starting out in hair. The number one thing I would tell any young hairdresser is to not let people say to you; “No, you’re never going to be able to do that,” “No, let me do it,” “No, you’re not ready...” If you believe in yourself, then do it. Hairdressers are hands-on people and if we’re not given the chance to get stuck in, we would never be able to flourish. I’ve made so many mistakes, like everyone, but I’ll tell you one thing; I’ll never do them again. I have learned from every single mistake I have made and that’s what makes a great hairdresser. Career highlights so far. Highlights for me have got to be the competitions and award ceremonies, whether I’m a finalist or just going to support other friends in the hairdressing community. Hairdressers really know how to party and getting the community together to support one another is just phenomenal!


Zöe Irwin HI, MY NAME IS

and I am a trend addict... Notes on Camp.

I’m here in New York to investigate the movements on colour tones and the impact of the celebrated 1964 essay by Susan Sontag ‘Notes on “Camp”’, which posited different ways the concept could be construed. There is a feeling in the air that Sontag’s writings are timely to what is going on both culturally and politically. So here I am to record the exhibition and study the colours and fabrics that will have an impact on future releases. So much so that the 2019 Met Gala was centered around the theme of the new exhibition and was given the theme of Camp: Notes On Fashion. The exhibition features 250 fine art and fashion objects and is totally mind blowing. It is one of the most beautiful exhibitions I have ever seen. The Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele has said that the DNA of the exhibition is related to his work, working to the expression of human nature. Sontag has said that ‘Camp’ is the love of the unnatural, of artifice and exaggeration, style at the expense of content. The exhibition is an array of beautiful fashion pieces displayed in incredible boxes with washes of pastel and highly pigmented tones. It examines how the elements of humour, parody, theatricality and exaggeration are expressed in fashion. Designers from Vivienne Westwood to Balenciaga have the most interesting and incredible pieces on display. Trying to pin down ‘Camp’ is not easy – often evading capture and inextricably tied to the meaning of fashion. Growing up in the world of hair, the whole exhibition led me to think about my interpretation of ‘Camp’ in hair styling and made me realise how incredible a whole show with this theme would be for our industry. To see different hairstylists’ interpretation of this subject in hair would be so interesting. I spend so much time with young hairstylists mentoring and developing their creative minds and I feel the book “Camp: Notes on Fashion” by the Met is a must for hairdressers. I also know we are going to see its influence in new collections for the next season.


PEOPLE

TREND SPOTTING

WITH BABYLISS PRO

Ky Wilson The Lake District “Our brains are constantly over-subscribed with content,” says Ky Wilson. “Instagram is updated with over one hundred million photos every single day so we’re constantly seeing fresh feeds, wherever we are or whatever we’re doing, and this makes imagery unbelievably difficult for me to relate to. With everything being so controlled and static within an image it’s a liberating feeling once I’ve done the work to let go and watch the Chaos unveil...” Ky is the owner of The Social – a brand and a destination, with two salons and their own photographic creative space. “The Social is at the forefront of changing how the hair industry thinks. Creating a global lifestyle studio in true collaborative fashion, based in East London and encouraging the flexible work ethos of the “freelancer” community. We adapt as you evolve,” he explains. Most of his time may be spent in London, either at The Social or on one of many jobs for one of many brands he’s become the go-to stylist or educator for, but Ky isn’t one to forget about his roots. “With so much content out there, I find still imagery harder to relate to. I find I need to embrace where I grew up in motion. Taking inspiration from the elements the Lake District naturally offers what I wanted – to create a sense of movement, but captured in one still image.” Ky is a big fan of enhancing the natural look of hair. “Finding the right head of hair for the concept is the most important thing, and then playing with the natural texture hair has to create the best result. One of the key tools I use for this is the 19mm Titanium Expression tong by BaByliss PRO because this size creates a much more realistic natural wave rather than anything too glamorous or overdone. The use of the multiple heat settings is also a good touch – most of the time you don’t need to use the max heat, depending on the type of hair you’re working with.” Hair Ky Wilson for BaByliss PRO Make-up Lucy Pearson Styling Lloyd Jones Photography Cleo Glover Lloyd Location Coniston Copper Mines, Lake District

20 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER


Milan PAUL MITCHELL’S A/W 2019 Wanderlust Collection is all about the emotion, sights and moods of European cities. We’ve handpicked two of them for you to recreate and gain a sense of the soul and style of these destinations. Enjoy the journey!

STEP 1

STEP 6

Start by taking a cat eye-shaped section on the top of the head from the front hairline to the low crown.

Repeat on the right back side.

STEP 2 On the centre back, take a zigzag section, starting from the end of the cat eye-shaped section to the nape.

STEP 3 Take another zigzag section starting from the ear and connect it to the cat eye-shaped panel. Repeat on the opposite side.

STEP 4 Starting on the left back side, take a diagonal back section and apply Formula 1 to the roots, and apply Formula 2 on the mid-lengths and ends.

STEP 5 Continue with diagonal back sections applying Formula 1 to the base area, then follow the pattern (see diagram) using Formula 2 on the mid-lengths and ends twice. Follow with Formula 3 on the mid-lengths and ends. (Formula sequence: 2-2-3-2-2-3-2-2)

STEP 7 On the front left side, take diagonal back sections, which curve to the shape of the head. Follow the same pattern with Formula 1 at the base, and follow with Formula 2 twice and Formula 3 once. (Formula sequence: 2-2-3-2)

STEP 8 Repeat on the right side.

STEP 9 On the top section, begin in the crown area and take vertical sections. Apply Formula 1 at the base and Formula 2 at the mid-lengths and ends. Be sure to vary the length or drag off the base color on each section to create a seamless blend. Separate each section in foil to prevent any color staining on the mid-lengths and ends.

STEP 10 Process hair accordingly and rinse well. Shampoo with Color Protect®Post Color Shampoo and Color Protect® Conditioner.

COLOUR FORMULAS: Formula 1: On Base The color XG 5VG (5/63) 2 oz. (60 g/ml) + 10 Volume Paul Mitchell Cream Developer 2 oz (60 g/ml) Formula 2: Foil The Demi Rose Gold 2 oz. (60 g/ml) + Paul Mitchell Processing Liquid 2 oz. (60 g/ml) Formula 3: Foil The color XG UTV (uTV/6) 1oz (30 g/ml) + the color XG 10N (10/0) 1oz. (30 g/ml) + the color XG 7R (7/4) 0.3 oz. (10 g/ml) + 10 Volume Paul Mitchell Cream Developer 2.3 oz. (70 g/ml)

Wanderlust


COLOUR

London STEP 1

STEP 5

Divide with a centre line from the front of the hairline to the nape.

Move to the front panel (Section 1). Apply three foils using the horizontal slice application, alternating between Formulas 1 and 2 and start with Formula 1 on the hairline.

STEP 2 Starting about two inches from the hairline, take a cat eye-shaped section following the curve of the head into the nape, and secure the section.

STEP 3 Divide the left out hair into five subsections: fringe, both sides, and two back sections.

STEP 6 Move to back Panel 4 and apply three foils using the diagonal slice application. Alternate between Formulas 1 and 2 and start with Formula 1 on the hairline. Repeat on Panel 5.

STEP 7

STEP 4 Starting on the right panel (Section 3), apply five foils using the diagonal back slice applications, alternating between Formulas 1 and 2. Repeat on left panel (Section 2).

Apply Formula 3 to all remaining hair roots and through the ends, including the hair left in between the foils.

STEP 8 Once processed, shampoo with Color ProtectÂŽ Post Color Shampoo and The DetanglerTM to condition.

COLOUR FORMULAS: Formula 1: Foil The color XG HLPN (12/80) 1 oz. (30 g/ml) + the color XG HLP (12/86) 1 oz. (30 g/ml) + 30 Volume Paul Mitchell Cream Developer 4 oz. (120 g/ml) Formula 2: Foil The color 7BG (7/73) 1oz. (30 g/ml) + Clear Booster 1 oz. (30 g/ml) + 30 Volume Paul Mitchell Cream Developer 2 oz. (60 g/ml) Formula 3: On Base The color XG 5BA (5/71) 2 oz. (60 g/ml) + the color XG 6BG (6/73) 2 oz. (60 g/ml) + 20 Volume Paul Mitchell Cream Developer 4 oz. (120 g/ml)


SPICE GIRLS

For Autumn/Winter 2019 it’s all about warm yellow blondes, delicious chocolate browns, extreme jet blacks and red and copper tones. Take inspiration from your kitchen cupboard and use the colours in your spice rack to spice up your clients colour life.

WHITE PEPPER Prelighten and tone or a full head of highlights for this one. It’s neither buttery nor beige.

“A full head of bleach is essential for creating this look – no visible dark roots please – and an even blend of warm and cool tones will ensure it’s neither icy platinum nor brassy. Make sure you include commitment to regular toner in your client’s aftercare advice, too. If this is too high-maintenance for your client, however, then focus more on the mid lengths and ends.” Steve Rowbottom, Director at Westrow.


TURMERIC BLONDE Golden balayage with warmth and yellow-ish vibrance. No purple shampoo here.

“For this season it’s all about shades that resemble your kitchen pantry spice rack! Think shades of yellow blondes resembling turmeric that can be created with a golden balayage.” Carly Price, Partner Stylist at Muse.

“Going into AW19 and through to 2020 we will see blondes getting warmer with golden and honey blondes being particularly on trend. Meadowlark, a golden blonde hue that is a mellower take on vibrant sunshine yellow, was super on trend in SS18 and coming into AW19/20 we are starting to see this hair colour come back on trend but with more warmth and an almost copper tint for high shine. This hair colour is great for blondes who want to update their look and opt for something more vibrant.” Suzie McGill, Owner of Rainbow Room International’s Uddingston Salon, Schwarzkopf Professional UK Ambassador and International Artistic Director.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 25


“We can create endless shades of red as there is something that suits every skin tone and hair type and it can be as muted or as shiny as you and your client want it to be. Bronzed Copper is achieved by mixing your opposite reflect shades together to create a metallic result – ultra shiny, luxurious and expensive. Wearable but on-trend.” Grace Dalgleish, Colour Specialist at Brooks & Brooks.


RICH PAPRIKA Warm, rich and wholesome. All over colour with highlights makes this red shine. “For me this is the colour I want to see for the season. Because I know all the tones coming out are mustards and warmer browns, I realised brunettes need to change. Because we’ve been coming from a place where brunettes have been cooler and we’ve been making them very ash, smoky and darker (last season we had smoked wood), this season I knew it had to be warmer to suit the palette of colours people would be wearing.” Zoë Irwin, Wella Professionals Colour Trend Expert.

“Due to the season, red hair has blown up over Instagram recently with bright red shades and shades of cinnamon being particularly favoured. For a high shine, catwalk-inspired red hair look I particularly love to use cinnamon and copper shades and mixing highlights with the Goldwell Pure Pigments in Red to give the hair extra shine and to warm up the skin tone and allow it to really glow.” Neil Barton, Goldwell Ambassador, Owner of Neil Barton Hairdressing.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 27


MUSTARD SEED

Multi-tonal and never plain, keep brunettes cool with extra face framing tones.

“Soft face framing hues made up of golden flecks and caramel tones will remain popular for those with a brunette starting point through AW19. The use of warm tones to add a multi-dimensional appearance to the hair will remain on trend and this look is both low maintenance and very wearable.” Krysia Eddery, Owner of Perfectly Posh Hair Design.

“For those looking to go darker think cool charcoal brown and rich chocolate, it’s all about gloss and shine! Cool charcoal brown would work as a balayage and is a shade for the client who wants something a little more creative and different. Those looking for that beautiful shine and glossy locks should opt for the rich chocolate shade as this completely nourishes the hair, leaving it looking and feeling incredible.” Kevin Paul Finnell, Director at F&M Hairdressing.


PEPPERCORN BLACK A full head tint with an oh-so-worth-it pay off on the right skin tone.

“There is something very alluring about hair so black it must be courtesy of a colourist. While extreme, this jet-black hue can actually be surprisingly flattering on many different complexions and skintones, however certain clients should be warned against it. If your client has very light hair, or wants to revert back to blonde, then they need to be warned what a long and potentially damaging process this may be.� Thomas Hills, Director at TH1 Hair.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 29


#MYDENTITY @GUY-TANG LAUNCHES TWO NEW FORMULAS TO HELP YOU BALAYAGE LIKE THE MAN HIMSELF.

Seamless Strokes

32 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER


COLOUR CLOSE-UP

FORMULA FACTS #STROKE7 ROSE BALAYAGE LIGHTENER ●

For up to 7 levels of lift in a single application.

Rosé tinted powder.

ElastiShell™ Technology allows for a flexible cast with minimal flaking for an even lift.

Processes in 35-45 minutes (1:3) (Remember #hairbestie, it all depends on the hair!).

Formulated with Guy’s favourite lavender fragrance.

THICC Balayage Activators ●

Designed for #Stroke7 to create a unique, creamy consistency.

Effortless spreadability for a flawless blend.

When mixed with #Stroke7, the product rests on top of each painted section for added natural dimension. (For a bolder balayage, press harder for full penetration.)

Formulated with Guy’s favourite lavender fragrance.

GET THE LOOK STEP 1: Balayage using #Stroke7 Rosé Balayage Lightener + 30V Thicc Balayage Activator (1:3). Process for 35-45 minutes. STEP 2: On damp hair, glaze using X-PRESS Toner Sand Storm + 6Vol Developer (1:2) on the rootagé. STEP 3: On damp hair, using equal parts X-PRESS Toner Sand Storm + Demi-Permanent Crystal Clear + 6Vol Developer (1:2), blur from rootagé through mids and ends. Process for up to 5 minutes and rinse. FIND OUT MORE WWW.RDR.LINK/HI001

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 33


SAVE THE DATE

pur el y h air, p ure ly f or p rof e ssiona ls

BOOK FREE TICKETS AT WWW.PROHAIRLIVE.CO.UK

MANCHESTER CENTRAL 23 RD -24 TH FEBRUARY 2020


ARTIST: ANDREW BARTON PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRIS BULEZUIK


Shooting

for the top

One of the most familiar faces on the hair scene, Desmond Murray is known for his bold vision and big personality – alongside a unique hairdressing talent. But his career almost took another path, and it is a passion that has always burned brightly. “I started out assisting renowned photographers Max Bradley and Paul Pannock during the 80s,” Desmond explains. “We were shooting for titles such as Vogue, iD and Arena. I was taught the techniques needed to create mind-blowing editorial images, and the technical skills to bring them to life.” Desmond honed his hairdressing skills and mastered the discipline required to take you to the top of your game as a stylist at the epitomé of hairdressing excellence – Sassoon. And indeed the very top is where Desmond landed. As well as appearing on TV shows and tending to celebrity clients, Desmond has acted extensively as an ambassador for global hair brands over the past 30 years and ran his eponymous salon in Covent Garden for over half a decade. He’s also assisted some of the industry greats – such as Eugene Souleiman and Sam McKnight backstage at fashion weeks around the world, and of course there’s a shelf full of awards. While Desmond continued to shoot at every opportunity, it was a recent, chance encounter that made him reassess his love of photography. “I was in Selfridges and I saw a set of campaign images for a beauty brand that literally stopped me in my tracks,” explains Desmond. “I stood looking at them for 10 minutes thinking, ‘why am I not shooting hair images like that and why am I not doing hair like that?’ They were stripped back and the hair was uncontrived and easy – just beautiful.” And so, a new concept – POP-UP Hair Photography was born. Desmond is on a mission to reinvent the way that hair images are conceived and created. “I think we’ve all become a bit conditioned to shoot to an agenda such as collections to win awards, or to sell a product. But my feeling was, why not just shoot beautiful hair because – as hairdressers – this is what we’re great at.”

Creative talent DESMOND MURRAY’S new POP-UP Hair Photography concept looks set to shake up the way the hair world conceives and creates photography shoots For Desmond, the correlation between creating amazing hair and capturing it on camera is a process he views as seamless. “As hairdressers, our images are our legacy, “ he enthuses. “When I think back to the images that were created when I was with Sassoon they were trailblazing and defined an era. With the rise in social media, images are everywhere. It’s not enough to think that one great style will make you stand out for five years or even five minutes. We’re only as good as our last haircut – unless we shoot it!”

36 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

And so, POP-UP Hair Photography makes great images accessible and bang up-to-date. Desmond has linked up with Named Model Management and The Hair Desk to shoot their new faces. “It’s a win-win deal where they get a bank of amazing test shots and we get to keep pushing creative boundaries,” explains Desmond. “Because the faces are new there’s a freshness to them.” Sasha at Named Model Management is equally enthusiastic. “Here at Named we have had the pleasure of hosting Desmond’s POP UPs several times now, always finding the experience to be greatly advantageous and thoroughly enjoyable. Des demonstrates an intuitive ability to quickly build rapport with talent through strong communication. He makes our models feel amazing and gets the most out of what they can offer in front of the camera.” The added bonus is that the agency is given an insight into how their models perform individually, enabling them to critique and develop their careers – as well as receiving fabulous imagery for the models’ portfolios, of course. Desmond handpicks a creative team who takes care of styling and make-up and he takes the shots. “All that’s left to do is conjure up some inspiring hair and get back to the basics of what we do and love. Not over-styled, or excessively retouched, the finished images are classy that stand the test of time,” says Desmond. It’s also a chance for hairdressers to get involved in a concept which adds mileage to their branding, and gives them a full set of images at a fraction of the cost. Christian Hefti at BHP Hairdressing in Leeds was one of the first to sign up to a shoot with POP-UP Hair Photography for Matrix. He says, “I was thinking about a photo shoot for the salon. Not for awards, just to try and get a collection of images for us. I started noticing Desmond Murray doing shoots called POP-UP and it really flicked my switch. I contacted Des and organised the shoot. We had a fantastic day, and we ended up with a super collection of images. Really usable, commercial and relevant to our salon – not pictures that scare the clients!” No doubt Desmond has tapped into the appetite for images that don’t feel contrived or shot for a purpose. Instead, they celebrate the mastery of simply beautiful hair. And through this he has managed to engage a new audience to appreciate the raw artistry of what hairdressers are best at. Christian continues, “Des has a lovely style, and being a hairdresser knows how to encourage and get the most out of the day. All in all it was a really great day, and the POP-UP style was exactly what we were aiming for and more. Already saving for the next one!” The future looks bright for POP-UP Hair Photography, and Desmond is clearly revelling in his renewed passion for photography. “I now have two other model agencies lining up to get on board, and hairdressers queuing up to collaborate. This feels like a revolution… And it’s about time,” he enthuses with that huge smile of his.


Hair & Photography Desmond Murray Make-up Jo Sugar

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 41


Hair Krysia Eddery Make-up Roseanna Velin Styling Joey Bevan Photography Tony Le-Britton


Jack & the Wolfe

Hair Jack & Lydia Mead-Wolfe Make Up Neringa Bige Photography Danny Baldwin


O

FE

S SIONAL

★ ★

BRING ON THE BOYS Professional Hairdresser and Barber NV have announced an exciting collaboration to bring PRO BARBERING LIVE to the Pro Hair Live show in Manchester on February 23rd & 24th 2020. Together we will enhance and expand the existing barbering element of Pro Hair Live into a dedicated male grooming showcase. We will headline the very best brands, the latest techniques and the hottest talent from the world of barbering and male hairdressing. AMERICAN CREW 2-IN-1 SKIN MOISTURIZER & BEARD CONDITIONER. An easy-to-use multi-benefit lotion that improves the feel of the beard without leaving any residue on the skin, yet moisturising it at the same time. WAHL CORDLESS DETAILER LI. The close cutting, extra-wide T-shaped blades enable straighter shape-ups and produce faster cutting results than standard trimmer blades – all with 100 minutes run time.

KEVIN.MURPHY FREE.BALANCING DUO. This kit contains a highly effective, invigorating, balancing shampoo plus Free.Hold which provides flexible, medium hold, creates a thickening effect and adds natural-looking shine.

REUZEL GROOMING TONIC. For volume, hold and heat protection, this spray can exaggerate wet look shine on any Reuzel pomade, or be brushed through for a natural appearance.

P

P

R

R

O

FE

DARK STAG FOLDING KAMISORI RAZOR. This razor has a double edged blade perfect for shaping and shaving beards and moustaches, plus a folding design for greater portability and a different take on style.

SSIONAL ANDIS ANNOUCES UK BARBER SCHOLARSHIP WINNERS

★ ★

Our men’s feature is back with another dose of all things manly. Whether you’re a men’s hairdresser or a barber, we’ve rounded up all the news, products, inspiration and education you need to keep those boys and their beards up to date and in check.

Since our last men’s feature, Andis has been sifting through hundreds of entries and the judges determined that MARTIN KUSPAL from Leicester and CHARLOTTE CLARK from Hampshire are the worthy winners of the brand’s scholarship. We can’t wait to see them take their skills to the next level.

FELLOWSHIP BARBER PROJECT MEETS HAYDEN CASSIDY Internationally acclaimed barbering expert and Andis global educator Hayden Cassidy spent a day with the current Fellowship for British Hairdressing Barber Project team, sharing some invaluable techniques and tricks for working with diverse textured hair. Hand-picked by Barber Project team leader Jonathan Andrew, Hayden demonstrated two looks for the team, starting with an Afro model then moving onto very straight Asian hair, to enhance their confidence in working with different hair types. “Seeing how Hayden puts her own mark on each cut was really inspiring,” says Sarah Morrissey from Sarai Hair, one of the Barber Project team. “She is an amazing barber and I got loads from today – particularly about how to create a perfect fade on different hair types; something which I really wanted to perfect. Being able to watch and ask questions was so beneficial. I found today so inspiring!”

BABYLISS PRO TITANIUM FOIL SHAVER. This heavy-duty dual foil shaver is designed for blending and fading with precision. The ultra-fine, hypoallergenic foils work for an easy gliding, close cut finish with no irritation.


I

’ve always loved men’s hairdressing, I think for a lot of us hairdressers, short technical cuts are a real joy to do and actually that’s one of the bonuses of working on gents. Peaky Blinders has been hugely influential on men’s hair trends recently, and that iconic shaved round the back and sides with a longer length on top is really cool – we’ll be seeing that influence guys for a while to come, and it can be made into a less extreme, more wearable version by keeping the shave slightly longer and the length slightly shorter. But longer hair, more texture, waves and curls and more facial hair are also big trends shaping the market. We’re seeing an increase in men’s perming, think Kit Harrington as a major influence for this fashion. Perms are especially popular with younger guys who aren’t blessed with volume and have no preconceptions of the 80s Keegan perm – to them it’s just a contemporary service that gives movement, volume and waves if they don’t want an actual curl (although some of them do want defined curls.) If you’re not already perming, and weirdly it is only an optional skill at NVQ level now, then I’d really advise you get yourself on a course or you’re missing out on good money from an additional service that complements your cuts and colour. Advise clients that perms don’t necessarily have to be curly, a volume perm will just give the hair movement and lift. Go-to products include Salt Spray to enhance the volume of hair while imparting texture to the style. As well as longer shoulder and jaw length looks, we’ll see an 80s influence to voluminous looks – think actor Joe Keery who plays Steve Harrington in Stranger Things as your style inspo. A 21st century take on the rockabilly twist is another strong look, and think Keifer Sutherland in Lost Boys, Draco Malfoy or Billy Idol as poster boys. Go for high shine on this 80s influence. If you’re taking your client short think slicked back preppy sweep – length on top, shaved at the side, or 90s influenced bleach blonde dark roots on a grown out crop. I work a lot with guys who have thinning hair (given that one-fifth of all men will experience some sort of hair loss by age 20; 25% of men start going bald by age 30; and 70% of men at some point in their lives will be affected by male pattern baldness, to be honest we all do!) and men are definitely more aware of what they’re putting on their hair and buying more male specific targeted products, especially in the thinning area. The typical male grooming routine has changed – gone are the days of in the shower and use whatever’s there – soap, shower gel or your partner’s products; guys now have their own products from face wash to charcoal toothpaste; the routines are the same but they’re

Man talk JAMIE STEVENS

Jamie Stevens is three times winner of British Men’s Hairdresser of the Year and a current finalist for the award again this year. He’s worked with high profile guys including Hugh Grant, Calum Best, Leonardo di Caprio and Olly Murs, and as the resident hairdresser on The X Factor for five years he’s well versed in producing on trend men’s looks in the public eye. We caught up with Jamie to find out where he sees the fashion in men’s hair going. using more advanced products; things like scrubs are more prevalent, face masks, teeth whitening, anti-age and wrinkle products… So for hair, we’re seeing shampoo and now conditioner and scalp treatments, as well as styling products and ‘disguise’ products for thinning hair. Don’t be shy to sell product to your gents, they’re just as likely to invest in something that they need and actually good product knowledge can make a significant difference to a man’s hair, and to their self-esteem and confidence. In terms of grooming style leaders, Beckham is still right there for me – it’s all going on from eyebrow threading to stubble, he’s always changing his hair length and look and he remains a style icon. Falling off my radar is Justin Bieber – not cool any more! I think we’ll see a move in men’s hair fashion to more pampering services under one roof, cosmetic surgery is more mainstream now and

more guys are looking at procedures like hair transplants. Shows like Made In Chelsea and Love Island have catapulted us way past the age of the metrosexual – just think, not that long ago if men applied anything more targeted than Wash & Go they were considered metrosexual, now the idea of botox, tanning, teeth whitening and other procedures are part of our culture, especially among the younger generations. For better or worse, social media means more scrutiny of our looks and even dating has changed so much with potential dates assessing a picture instead of real life. So I predict a forward move in men’s hairdressing fashion will stretch to encompass more grooming services and convenience for guys to get these done under one roof. Don’t forget to educate your guys – I teach all of my clients why conditioner is so important and how to use products properly – it’s all part of the job.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 55


Jamie

Stevens


Hair Jamie Stevens Make-up Maddie Wride & Selena Baker Photography Jamie Blanshard Products L’Oréal Professionnel Electricals Hot Tools

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 57


PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 61


ANDREW SMITH

MODERN MULLET First made fashionable in the 70’s amongst celebrities like David Bowie then returning in the mid 90’s where it was coined thanks to the Beastie Boys band, the Mullet is back to make a high impact statement and has acquired a new, unique twist! The key characteristics of length at the back then taken higher and shorter around the ears and top will remain but for the new Mullet we need to introduce extreme texture to give that flexibility when styling. This is a versatile cut that is awesome for the modern man who wants to switch his look around. Cutting with heavy texture produces uneven lengths to keep the modern Mullet looking fresh and updated. It can be styled naturally by leaving the hair to air dry, wavy by using flat irons to put bends/dents within the hair or smooth by blowdrying with a brush. For a more statement style you can slick the hair back using a water-based gel.

RED HEAD We’re seeing a huge increase in demand for men’s colour services and encouraging male clientele to push boundaries and opt for something that really demands attention has never been more relevant – 2019 is the year of individuality – it’s time to stand out from the norm. Reds and coppers should be embraced this season and complemented with statement fringes that are tailored to the individual and tightly cut back and sides for maximum impact.


MENS TRENDS

HEADS UP Christian Wiles and Andrew Smith give us the low down on the styles that will be big in barbering this coming season.

CHRISTIAN WILES

BUZZ CUT

RELAXED POMP

The Buzz Cut arrives on the streets straight from the

We’re seeing a movement towards longer styles with

catwalk (teamed with fierce tailoring on the A/W runway

softer textures and the soft quiff makes the perfect

at Alexander Mcqueen and also spotted at Dior Men,

transitional style. Create a soft side part with

Kenzo, Alyx) and has quickly been adopted by the

disconnection for a more grown-out, more relaxed

celebrity click. There are many variations of this

version of the classic pomp – add texture to the classic

statement look depending on the hair type and length. Be

look so the hair can either be worn softly to the side or

sure to use products to alter the texture to give the client

worn forward. The key to this look is to be less aggressive

the option to switch up their style to suit the

on the sides and back, and educate your clients on how to

occasion. The beauty of the Buzz is that each cut will

style and work product into their hair to give that less

look different so it’s rare that any two guys will look alike.

structured finish.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 63


BY ROYAL

There’s a new ROYAL family reigning over Christmas this year. Bestowing a crowning glory over this festive season, the new ghd Royal Dynasty Collection will hark the herald hair goals bring! This season’s most desired luxury gift sets exude opulence and majesty in a glistening rose gold finish and are presented in luxury deep burgundy vanity cases.

64 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER


ADVERTORIAL

Air Hairdryer Accented in stunning rose gold hues, the ghd air hairdryer offers a professional strength motor and advanced ionic technology to deliver exceptionally fast drying and styling, while also helping to reduce frizz, leaving hair soft and silky.

Platinum+ Styler Be the regal ruler of style this party season with the platinum+ styler. From curls to straight, this high commander of style features ultra-zone with predictive technology that senses personal hair needs and adapts the delivery of power accordingly. Coated in glistening rose gold, this really is the jewel in the ghd crown.

Gold Styler The iconic gold styler features dual-zone technology for premium performance and a modernised design for smooth, snag-free styling in line for hair perfection.

The Deluxe Gift Set Rule the gift of giving with this award-winning hair royalty duo. The ghd platinum+ smart styler and professional performance air hairdryer have been dusted in a majestic rose gold hue for the festive season.

For more information and to become a stockist, contact your ghd account manager or call 01924 423400. PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 65


WHAT’S NEW THE LATEST PRODUCT LINE UP

Take natural up a notch with the new JOICO Vero K-Pak Age Defy Permanent Crème Shades Natural Beige Collection – the ultimate ‘mushroom shades’ palette to flawlessly give your clients this hot colour trend. The seven new shades feature luscious creamy tones of taupe for complete one-step grey coverage.

The latest Balmain Paris Hair Couture Limited Edition Silver Cosmetic Bag makes a bold statement in uber-cool chrome. It contains some of the Balmain bestsellers for keeping your clients’ hair tamed on the go, including the Moisturizing Shampoo, Moisturizing Conditioner and the palm-sized and perfect Pocket Mirror.

Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Clay Lightener has been developed to support the growing client demand for more freehand, trending colour applications. The advanced, premium, soft-to-solid formula cleverly creates an outer shell, which allows the lightener to stay moist on the inside, unleashing its full lifting power, whilst the outer shell protects uncoloured hair from product transfer.

With ColorMotion+ clients don’t have to choose between colour protection or hair strength. Regular use of the new line-up improves the quality of coloured hair in three ways: by providing colour protection for up to eight weeks, by creating vibrant shine, and by strengthening the hair structure. The range includes, Scalp Protect, Pre-Colour Treatment, Shampoo, Conditioner and Structure+ Mask.

The latest tool in Electric Hairdressing’s Professional Product line provides instant grip, hold and volume without the usual grittiness of powder. Electric °C-8 Invisible Volume Chalk contains no magnesium, ensuring it is ideal for coloured hair. It leaves all types of hair feeling amplified yet natural and free-moving.

Making curling easier than ever before, the ghd Oracle innovative curling tool uses patented breakthrough curl-zone technology which combines a unique shape, the styling power of heat and the setting effect of cooling to create a variety of curls for all hair types – in just one stroke.

From corrective uses to fashion colouring, Crazy Color’s latest launch gives your clients the power to live their life in colour. HYPE Pure Pigments is a truly customisable colouring system with five highly concentrated shades. Simply drop them into a selected base and apply for endless intermixable colour combinations.

TURNTABLE Curl-Defining Crème from R&Co is lightweight and designed to nourish and shape without weighing down wavy and curly hair or making curls crunch. The crème blocks humidity, adds moisture and noticeable shine. Simply apply to damp hair and work through to roots and ends then diffuse or air dry.

OSMO has launched a new Hot Pink shade, its latest addition to the Colour Revive intense colour conditioning treatment range. The go-to shade will re-energise salon colour and fight the fade in just three minutes, while nourishing with Avocado Oil and Linseed Oil infused formulas to help restore vibrancy.


PINK POWER Every year some well-loved brands turn pink in October for NATIONAL

BREAST CANCER AWARENESS MONTH,

contributing to national Breast Cancer charities. By stocking and selling these products, you become a part of the fight against Breast Cancer!

Kent Brushes has partnered with Breast Cancer Haven and created a hairbrush that is perfect for people undergoing or recovering from chemotherapy to help with retaining and re-growing hair. The Special Edition Breast Cancer Haven PF06 brush is made from beechwood and pure bristles and has the Breast Cancer Haven logo inscribed on the brush head. Priced at £10, £1 of every brush sold is donated to Breast Cancer Haven.

Keeping up with the latest trends, Sens.ùs has added two new colour lines, NUDES and METALLICS, to its exclusive Inblonde range. Formulated with Active Revitalising Complex, these products are packed with natural, certified amd innovative ingredients to help strengthen and hydrate the hair whilst ensuring longer lasting vibrant colour.

Milk_shake is once again switching its iconic yellow packaging on the Incredible Milk for pastel pink with white dots to raise money for Breast Cancer Awareness. With every bottle purchased the brand will donate £1 to charity.

This year Organic Colours Systems are joining the Pink Party and will be supporting the Breast Cancer charities by donating £1 from every UK sale of their Hot Pink No Limits semi permanent colour up to the value of £500 for the whole of October.

Intense Repair is the latest range from muk Haircare and is specifically designed for over processed or sun exposed hair that is in poor condition. The range includes Repair Shampoo, Repair Conditioner and a Repair Treatment to increase hair’s strength, elasticity and shine.

It’s ghd’s 15th year of supporting breast cancer charities and they have launched the gorgeous ‘ink on pink’ collection in collaboration with tattoo artist David Allen. Together they have created an original design based on David’s work with mastectomy scars. For every styler sold, £10 will go to Breast Cancer Now in the UK or the Irish Cancer Society.


S U S T A i N A B L E

NATURAL

NOTES

Introducing Botanical Colour, a vegan, gluten-free natural colour from ASP Kitoko.

F

or clients looking for a natural way to colour hair, the new vegan friendly and gluten free ASP Kitoko Botanical Colour gives them that option. There are 12 shades available which are based on seven natural dyes that have a purified and preservative-free formulation. The seven natural dyes include: Henna – metal free, Cassia, Indigo, Walnut Husk, Bloodwood Tree, Turmeric and Rhubarb.

All shades are 87-100% organic, plant based and ammonia free. This deposit only, plant-based colour mixes with water for beautiful, damage-free results that last up to 20 washes. It is perfect for fragile or damaged hair as well as first-time colour clients and those with ingredient sensitivities. It leaves the hair feeling stronger, fuller and healthier-looking with an incredible shine and vibrancy. Available in 12 striking ready-to-use-pre-blended shades, the colour range is free from peroxide, ammonia, resorcinol, ppd and ptd with up to 100% white coverage. All colours are intermixable. WARM SHADES – Nutmeg, Cranberry, Chocolate, Autumn Berries, All Spice, Paprika, Dark Cinnamon, Damson and Manuka Honey COOL SHADES – Bitter Chocolate and Peppercorn NEUTRAL SHADE – Crystal Clear. This can also be mixed and applied on its own as a conditioning treatment to give incredible shine, condition and texture, without colour.

The range also includes a Primer Shampoo, designed for optimum colour penetration to ensure the best possible blank canvas before applying colour.

DYES DOWNLOAD WALNUT HUSK HENNA – METAL FREE

The leaves produce warm orange and red tones – perfect for creating copper and brown shades. It also has antioxidant and anti-dandruff properties. CASSIA

Also known as neutral henna, this plant contains a mild golden pigment and is used for lighter shades, brightening and conditioning.

This antioxidant-rich dye is used to create all shades of brown. BLOODWOOD TREE

The blood-red heartwood produces red dye with anti-inflammatory properties. TURMERIC

The rootstalks of this plant produce a deep orange-yellow dye, perfect for colouring light hair with beautiful golden shades.

INDIGO

The leaves of this tropical plant provide a natural blue/violet dye that adds depth and cooler tones.

RHUBARB

The roots produce a conditioning, antioxidant rich dye that creates golden tones in lighter hair. FIND OUT MORE WWW.RDR.LINK/HI002

68 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER


S U S T A i N A B L E

GREEN QUEEN

KARINE Karine with Lucy Siegle

This month we joined our resident environmental campaigner Karine Jackson at her salon for an event championing her mission to go single-use plastic free. Here she continues her sustainable series flying the flag for all things ethical in salons, covering what’s good for the environment (and your profits), and creating a blueprint for salons to go plastic-free…

Every year I hold a Colour Festival in the salon with the purpose of promoting our colour services, but this year I decided to take a different focus for our event. Becoming single-use plastic free is now my immediate goal, and communicating this to clients is really important – partly to align our ethics with our brand from a marketing point of view, but partly to encourage them to also think about their own plastic consumption and purchase choices. I was absolutely thrilled with the turnout – we were inundated with journalists from national titles like The Guardian and Good Housekeeping as well as clients and brands who were all raving about the talk given by Lucy Siegle, renowned ethical journalist and author of Turning The Tide On Plastic. Lucy has been a client of mine for a long time and is a presenter on The One Show on ethical issues, so I asked her to come and work with me to create a blueprint that I hope you’ll be able to implement in your own salon. If you haven’t read Lucy’s book, download it now! It’s absolutely brilliant to get you thinking about what plastic you use and how it’s become so prevalent. The first thing to do is a plastic audit. This basically means being really vigilant about what plastic packaging comes into your salon, putting it all in one place and then assessing how much there is and where it’s coming from. I planned to do this for a week but I was shocked that after three days it was taking over my office! I urge you to do this as a first step so that you and your team can really see the impact of how much builds up – I guarantee it will motivate you to cut it down. MY STRATEGY NOW IS:

www.ecohairandbeauty.com – Get your salon certified sustainable and don’t forget to promote it to your local press and clients. Turning The Tide On Plastic by Lucy Siegle – Must read book to get you up to speed on all things plastic and recycling.

Ask if you actually need the product that is bringing in the excess plastic in the first place. If not, just don’t buy it! If I forget my reusable coffee cup now I won’t allow myself a coffee (and I pretty much NEVER forget it as a result!) If you need the item, but could swap to the same thing without the plastic, do it! We’ve changed to Who Gives a Crap toilet roll for example – it comes wrapped in paper not plastic, and the cardboard tube is smaller than usual rolls so you get more tissue to the roll.

If you need the item and there isn’t an alternative, it’s time to start talking to the manufacturer. I was really cross when I ordered reusable bamboo coffee cups for all of my team and they came wrapped in plastic packaging AND had a stupid cleaning tool with a plastic handle with each one. When I contacted the company I bought them from they were incredibly blasé so I posted all the unnecessary plastic back to them with a letter about why they needed to change their ways! It may be easy to ignore a complaint but if they start to receive a lot of plastic back they’ll be forced to take it seriously. During her talk, Lucy told us about a movement of people who remove excess plastic at the checkout at supermarkets and leave it at the store by way of protest. Plastic is basically a product of capitalism, and stores are motivated by profit, so if they won’t be guided by morals then we need to motivate them financially. If it becomes more of an inconvenience to dispose of plastic we as consumers refuse, as well as a bad PR story, then companies will change! So let’s talk about industry manufacturers… I’ve been with Organic Colour Systems for 15 years and they’ve always been very progressive about their carbon footprint and not just their ingredients. For example, they would take the packaging that their ingredients arrived in and repurpose that to use to pack the finished products they sent back out. They are moving to 100% post-consumer recycled bottles for their colour and then shampoo and conditioners by 2020 – they are the first professional hair company in the world to do this. One of the services we’re now offering is product refills – clients can bring their empty product bottles back and refill them. Talk to your product company about how they’re tackling plastic – both the bottles themselves and the external packaging they transport them in. Let us know how your plastic audit goes on Instagram – tag us @karinemjackson and @prohairmag and we’ll be giving a shout out to you for the changes you’re making. And please do ask me questions about your plastic issues – if I don’t know the answer I know someone who does! Remember, plastic’s not fantastic!


AWARD-WINNING AND REPUTED BUSINESSMAN PHIL SMITH CONTINUES HIS SERIES WHERE HE BRINGS KNOWLEDGE FROM SUCCESSFUL BRANDS IN OTHER INDUSTRIES AND LOOKS AT WHAT WE CAN LEARN FROM THEM. THIS ISSUE HE TALKS TO ANNEKE SHORT, CO-FOUNDER & DESIGNER, THE CAMDEN WATCH COMPANY.

Look outside and learn This month I have been speaking to Anneke Short, a watch designer who has recently collaborated with barber Frank Rimer of Thy Barber. This grabbed my attention while visiting their store at Box Park. Anneke’s story from designer to brand is an interesting one and one I was glad to learn more about. Phil: Anneke, you were originally a watch design studio, before creating the brand – what inspired this move and how did you go about it? Anneke: The world of watches is incredibly secretive, and we had NDA’s with all our clients. So we were running the design studio and working with some great brands, but we weren’t allowed to tell anyone about them. As you can imagine, that made pitching to new clients very complicated. It’s hard to turn up to a meeting and say “We think we’re really good at what we do, but we can’t actually show you anything we’ve done, you’ll just have to trust us”. That’s essentially how the idea of The Camden Watch Company came about, as a showcase for the design studio, a way of flexing our design muscles and being able to show prospective clients exactly what we could do, but it soon took over and became the bigger business. We launched it with a loan from the Camden Collective, the shared office space we were working in at the time, and the rest, as they say, is history! Phil: You mentioned that you didn’t require a marketing plan. Has this changed as the brand has grown over the years? Anneke: Yes and no. We have a general idea of what we want to do and where we want to go, but equally, we like to keep things loose and we don’t have anything down on paper. Our advantage as a small company is that we can be very agile and quick. We can react to opportunities as and when then come along, and that’s a great strength, and something we like to make the most of. Most of our marketing is through the bricks and mortar stores, or via social media, which we run completely in-house. Phil: You have recently opened a store in Camden. With a decline in the High Street, what fuelled this move? Anneke: It’s actually not a new store as such, we’ve just moved into a bigger space. We actually have three stores now, our flagship in Camden, a shop in Boxpark, Shoreditch and one in Greenwich Market. It wasn’t a conscious decision to run the business this way, it just turned out like that. We launched the brand with a pop-up on

70 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

Camden High Street, and it worked so well that it got the cogs turning, if you’ll excuse the pun! We don’t wholesale at all, and having the stores has really worked well for us. It’s a lot of work, but I think if what you are providing is unique enough, people will come. We work very closely with our staff to ensure that they have a great knowledge of watches and of the company, so it can be a learning experience rather than just a sales transaction. Plus watches lend themselves well to retail, even in our day and age, it’s a product that a lot of people like to try before they buy. Phil: When running your own business you can often become bogged-down in the day to day aspects. How do you manage to stay inspired? Anneke: This is so true, and there have definitely been moments when running the business has taken over from moving it forwards. You can so easily get lost in day to day admin. We’ve managed this in two ways, firstly, by creating a great team around us who can help us with the day to day, and secondly by consciously setting aside time to create and explore new ideas. Phil: You’ve collaborated with Frank Rimer of Thy Barber to create a product that blends your brands and vision together. What is it about his barbering brand that attracted you to this partnership and what do you perceive the value of brand collaborations to be? Anneke: All our collabs have actually come around very organically. It wasn’t that we suddenly decided to design a Barber watch and went out searching for someone, but rather the other way around. Frank was first and foremost an ambassador for The Camden Watch Company, a relationship that started after he stumbled upon our shop one day and asked if he could stock our watches in his salon. So when it came time to look for our next collaboration, we already had this built in family of incredibly cool and talented people, and working with Frank just made so much sense. The whole barbering vibe just fits our brand so well and there was so much potential to work with. I think that’s what makes it so authentic and in turn that’s what makes it work. During our interview Anneke made a good point about her business that resignated with me. She said her team is so well trained the customer interaction becomes ‘an experience rather than a sales transaction’. This is also what differentiates a successful salon business to a mediocre one. Our teams must be fully educated in techniques and trends in order to offer more than a basic interaction. It is the level of experience that keeps a client returning to any salon.


BUSINESS

AS A FORMER COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR OF A LONDON ADVERTISING AGENCY, MICHAEL SMITH HAS APPLIED THE PRINCIPLES OF GOOD BUSINESS TO HIS THRIVING SALON, TRISTAN EVES, WITH GREAT SUCCESS. THIS ISSUE HE SHARES HIS THOUGHTS ON APPRENTICESHIPS, AND WHY IT’S AN INITIATIVE WE SHOULD ALL BE SUPPORTING

Lessons Learnt I’ve always thought that one of the most positive qualities of our industry is its ability to nurture and celebrate new talent. An apprenticeship offers a structure that supports new recruits and assists them on their journey to mastering this valued craft. At Tristan Eves we recognise the beneficial effects of inviting apprentices into our team. It’s important for us a salon, but also for the industry as a whole, and – most significantly – for the individual at the very outset of their career. When given the right guidance, it’s an opportunity to develop not just their hairdressing skills, but also to grow as a person. That’s not to say it’s all smooth sailing. We’ve had challenges along the way and sometimes you come across someone who isn’t the right fit for your brand. But we’ve had plenty of success stories too. One apprentice in particular we took on almost two years ago confirms to me why this is such an essential part of our business. Charley came to us after embarking on an apprenticeship with a large salon group. Her experience to date had been stuck in a classroom at college and simply washing hair when she was at the salon. She was demoralised, lacking confidence and close to giving up. She came across as shy and could barely look anyone in the eye. Our approach is to encourage our apprentices to be on the shop floor as much as possible. We immerse them in the salon environment and give them a multi-dimensional experience of what being a hairdresser is all about. Yes, there’s a formal educational aspect to an apprenticeship. They’ll go to college and be taught the fundamental skills, but there’s nothing quite like observing the process and understanding what that looks like in real life. There’s also plenty beyond cutting and colouring that a junior needs to learn to transform them from being simply ‘good’ to being ‘great’ at their job. It’s the soft skills – for instance, customer service – that they learn through being surrounded by examples of it every day.

One thing we do every year is take all our staff away on a team-building trip. We invite everyone – from the art team to our apprentices. It’s a big investment, but invaluable. Our philosophy is, how can an apprentice know how to give five star service if they’ve never experienced it? We also arrange an annual Junior Soirée. It’s a chance for our more junior team members to explore their creativity and showcase their talents. They spend up to three months researching models, developing looks and then finally present their visions to be judged. Through all of these experiences (and it might not surprise you to hear that Charley went on to win the Junior Soirée competition), our nervous apprentice has flourished into a capable and creative hairdresser. It’s not just her talents that have grown, but also her character. There can’t be much more reward for us than that. It’s also an investment which pays off hugely when you consider how hard it can be to find good stylists to join your team. When you’ve trained them yourself, inspired them and treated them with enthusiasm, you’re usually rewarded with their loyalty and commitment. So far, so positive. But there is a worry that apprenticeships are at risk of putting off people who may have the true talents they need to ‘cut it’, but lack the conventional criteria they need to pass the process. As someone who failed their English O Level and got an E in Maths, I can’t understand why there is still such a focus on academic achievement. That’s not to say we want to lower standards – of course we don’t. But to me there are a million more important skills required in a salon than passing Maths and English. Hairdressing is a career with such prospects and benefits, and I would hate to see the right kind of people, such as Charley, discouraged due to a demand for academic excellence. We’ll always have a space in our team for dedicated and enthusiastic apprentices. And I hope you will too.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 71


CONTINUING HER SERIES, TRISHA BULLER MIT SRSH SENIOR CONSULTANT TRICHOLOGIST AND OWNER OF THE AWARD-WINNING CIENTE SALON IN BERKHAMSTED, GOES BACK TO BASICS AND LOOKS AT WAYS TO HELP YOUR SALON WIN ON THE HIGH STREET.

Let’s get to the root of the problem Products and educating your client (never criticise another brand). Recommending the right product for a client’s scalp type, and hair condition and texture is key as it will help your client to maintain their hair condition, style and colour in-between visits to the salon, creating a trust and professional relationship which will ensure they return time and time again. You can be using the most expensive product, but if it is not right for your client’s scalp condition or hair type, they could be wasting money and this gives the wrong impression on the brand or the professional image you are portraying to your clients. I have always found by asking certain questions during consultation, you can really help to guide your clients through their hair journey and offer an ongoing hair plan which will help to maintain the condition and give longevity to hair colour too. As stylists we should avoid criticising what products our clients are currently using as this can be misconstrued and taken personally. Always start from fresh and be guided by what you can visually see with regards to the scalp, hair condition and texture. For example: When was the hair last shampooed? This is a key question, and good starting point as it will determine the scalp condition. ● Is it oily from not shampooing for days or naturally producing an excess amount of sebum? ● Are there any scalp excoriations or dead skin cells present? ● Any signs of sensitivity? This would display itself by the scalp looking red and the client expressing their head hurts to touch or the scalp feels sore. Once the scalp condition has been identified you can then assess the hair condition and hair type or texture. Shampoo is for the scalp condition, so choosing the correct shampoo for your client’s scalp condition is the first important step to preparing the hair for the following treatments and service. ● Take a few strands of hair in-between your fore finger and thumb and run down and then up the hair shaft to identify the hair porosity and cuticle condition. ● Taking three to four hairs in-between your forefinger and thumb again, gently stretch the hair to see how much stretch and return the hair has, it should stretch and return a third of its length. ● If it stretches and doesn’t return, it needs protein to strengthen the hair structure. ● If it doesn’t stretch at all it needs moisture which gives the hair pliability, bounce and hold. ● If it doesn’t stretch initially then stretches and tears, this could indicate the cuticle is coated with a silicon, thus not allowing the hair to give a true reading of the condition – this could require a cleansing shampoo to remove any build-up from the hair first. You could place a plastic cap

72 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

over the hair and pop under heat for five minutes – this will help to remove chlorine and other minerals and salts that the hair may have absorbed. Rinse thoroughly then repeat the stretch and return to identify the true condition before carrying on with a treatment plan. Generally everyone’s hair needs a treatment, either for the scalp or the hair and more often than not both. Once the client’s scalp condition and hair type has been determined and dealt with we can then decide how the client would like to see her finished look. Is it body, volume and bounce or smooth, sleek and shiny? This would reflect the conditioner type you would use, and finally, last but not least, styling products. Hair is hygroscopic so will absorb the slightest moisture into the hair structure. Styling products protect the hair cuticle from the atmosphere, creating shine, body, bounce and hold. Humidity is one the most offending factors of destroying a fabulous hair style, so by introducing anti-humectant styling products to the client’s hair care regime, this will really assist in locking out the moisture and giving longevity to the style. Commentary styling is a big success with our clients at Ciente Hair Health Spa – the client needs to be shown every step of the way. We bullet point every step… ● How much shampoo to use.  ● Emulsify in your hands.  ● Evenly distribute throughout your scalp then hair.  ● If this does not lather add more water NOT shampoo. ● Rinse thoroughly.  ● How much conditioner to use . ● How to apply to the hair. ● Is it their hair only or the scalp too? ● Never brush wet hair. ● Use a wide tooth comb. ● Start from the ends working gently towards the roots. ● When and how do they apply the treatment? ● How much to use. ● How long do they leave the treatment on for? ● When should they apply styling products. Another fabulous opportunity when giving professional advice is to recommend all heated styling tools from hair dryers, (should or shouldn’t they be using a nozzle? A nozzle gives direction of heat and protects the cuticle from being scorched) to straightening irons and curling wands . Changing brushes regularly to avoid hair breakage for instance is another good tip. By covering every step of the way with your client on their hair plan journey, you will have created a raving fan and a long standing relationship with your client, who has bought into your brand.


BUSINESS

DEBBIE DIGBY IS LEADING THE CHARGE ON...

Retail Disruption I reminisce fondly about the good old days when I gave my clients advice and recommended the right products for them, and invariably they would take my recommendations, the end result being extra revenue on the bill and the client with easier to manage at home hair. What’s more, when it was time to replenish the products, the client would return to the salon because that was the most convenient (only) place for them to buy. If you have been a hairdresser for more than a decade you may share my reminiscing for the ‘once was’. With the growing market for ‘Professional Products’ and the emergence of online sales the game has changed. But has it really changed to the point of us having to throw in the towel on a salon retail business? I was first convinced to develop a retail business three decades ago when my eyes were opened to petrol garages selling groceries. Many businesses at that time began selling other ‘associated’ products in order to increase revenue and meet rising costs. What could be more obvious than a hairdresser selling shampoo and styling products? The results of our industry efforts to sell home care did not go unnoticed and major manufacturers saw the opportunity to launch ‘professional’ home care brands through chemists, supermarkets and main stream media advertising. Then came the online revolution where it would appear everything is for sale. “How can we compete?” I hear salons cry. “Why should I bother? My clients only go and buy online.” Bother we must, for our success as professional high-end salons depends on it. Home care advice enhances the service and experience of the client so we must engage our teams and our clients in conversations about the benefit of personal recommendations that lead to a purchase from the salon. Note I say conversations and not consultations, for one of the changes we must make is having stylists really focus on giving advice about how the client takes care of her hair for six weeks after leaving the salon. Offering advice is a responsible and professional approach and if you seek differentiation in your business, done well a retail offering through recommendations can be real added value. Hair styles are more easily managed with the right products, I am always amazed at how fussy stylists can be about what products are used on their own hair and then leave their clients’ hair care to chance. The more complex colour services we are delivering today DEMAND homecare to maintain the colour and/or condition. Some salons add the home care cost to the service to ensure that the client has the right products to upkeep her style. The gross profit from retail sales is an important part of meeting costs but a massive barrier for many businesses is the investment in inventory.

I believe that today retail displays with shelves full of product are not necessary. It doesn’t matter if the client cannot see ALL THAT PRODUCT; you are a service business not a retail store. If your client receives a truly professional product recommendation…and is asked for the sale…you could sell crazy amounts of product out of a cupboard. Cut down on retail displays and ramp up the recommendations. Re-establish the credibility and professional mystique of the products you use and offer something your client cannot receive online.

Take your share Online sales of prestige beauty products rose 13% in 2018 to approximately £540m according the NPD Group. This equates to just 20% of the UK’s £2.7bn prestige beauty market leaving a whopping 80% share for brick-and-mortar businesses. I am happy to take a bite at that. How about you? We need to choose to do business with the companies and brands that stand up for stylists and salon owners’ and their future financial success. We have the biggest voice and the power to shape the future of our industry. In case you do not believe it is possible to fight the might of the Internet, take a leaf from the book of Birkenstock’s Chief Executive, David Kahans. He has emerged an unlikely crusader in the battle between smaller retailers and the online machine – Amazon. He noticed a rise in counterfeit products and unauthorized sellers as a result of business online that he believed threatened the brand’s prestige reputation. He wrote to Amazon deriding them for contacting shop owners and offering to buy their products at full price. His message to shop owners: don’t even think about selling our shoes to Amazon. “Any Authorised retailer who may do this for even a single pair will be closed forever. I repeat FOREVER.” If Birkenstock can battle Amazon…. so can professional product manufacturers. CEO of Eufora International, Beth Bewley said, “Eufora remains dedicated to the advancement of our industry and the talented people who drive it. Our 20-year commitment will not change. In the past year our fight against unauthorized online sales has resulted in a 70% reduction of third party Amazon sellers. We are a brand that chooses to fight for salon success and profitability!” It’s time to reinvent the concept of what a professional salon is, and what ‘retailing’ in a professional service setting truly means. Change is occurring with or without you, holding onto ‘what was’ and digging your heels in means avoiding change. Are you ready to change and be part of a new salon future?

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 73


WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

TRAINING COLOURING...

CUTTING...

MENS...

JOICO Lumishine Colour Essentials This morning session course will provide a thorough understanding of the fantastic Joico Lumishine Colour range. You will cover hair structure, the colour wheel, peroxide choice, achieving the correct target shade, formulating and advanced colour correction – everything you need to know to be an expert colourist with Joico Lumishine Colour. You’ll leave feeling motivated and confident in using the range. 30th October, Leeds Book online at, www.alanhoward.co.uk

HOB ACADEMY Advanced Cutting This one-day course offers the opportunity to work with HOB icon Akin Konizi and hone your cutting techniques and finishing touches that will leave your client bang on trend. Discover how to hold the perfect cutting consultation and be inspired to learn the latest hair cutting trends.  21st October, Pop-up Wella Studio, Edinburgh Call, 0161 834 2645

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL Gents Expert Enhance your practical knowledge about men’s contemporary haircutting and embrace the male clientele in your salon. After attending this one-day course, you’ll be able to deliver the perfect male consultation, offer the very latest cutting and styling techniques and benefit from the ever-growing retail market with Schwarzkopf Professional’s OSIS Session label and 3DMen range. 21st October, London/Glasgow Email, ASKacademy@henkel.com

WELLA PROFESSIONALS Insta Ready Colour In an era of Instagram filters and sky-high expectations, it’s so hard to navigate through your clients’ demands for dramatic colour transformations with stunning results and longevity. This course has been created so you can learn how to fulfil their ever-growing wish-lists or manage their expectations to deliver results they’ll love in a salon-friendly time. 12th November, Manchester Email, wellastudiomanchester@cotyinc.com L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Blonde Certification Would you like to become certified as a blonde specialist and gain an understanding of the key principles to achieving the perfect blonde results every time? Then this course is for you. Blonde Certification will give you the skills to ensure your clients get the perfect shade for them and you’ll master the art of creative toning. Learn new techniques to provide perfectly even results from roots to tip and gain valuable knowledge and tips to meet the expectations of your clients. 30th October, London/1st November, Leeds Email, coursesuk@loreal.com MATRIX Correct My Colour This day long course shares key Matrix product knowledge and techniques to change a client’s hair colour dramatically. It combines theory sharing and a hands-on workshop with a Matrix Colour Expert coaching you through removal of colour, balancing tone and pre-filling techniques and formulations. You’ll leave feeling ready to tackle all types of colour correction. 21st October, Leicester Book online at, www.alanhoward.co.uk

74 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL Essential Skills: Cutting By the end of this two-day seminar with special guest Daniel Granger, you will be an expert in outline, layers and graduation. Schwarzkopf Professional will showcase essential cutting techniques that have been specially designed to help you fill the gap between basic and creative hair cutting, opening up a whole new world of inspiration. 28th-29th October, Manchester Email, ASKacademy@henkel.com ALAN HOWARD Short Hair Cutting Does the thought of cutting short hair fill you with dread? This one-day course is designed to give you the confidence to master short hair cutting so that you can then create technically stunning short hair looks. You will firstly concentrate on the fundamentals of head shape, directional sectioning, moving and static guidelines, over direction, finger angle and elevation so that you can then add your creativity and produce three fabulous short hair looks. 29th October Leeds/Sheffield Book online at, www.alanhoward.co.uk WELLA PROFESSIONALS Classic Cutting This course is led by Guest Artists who will showcase the five key classic haircuts and help you develop the skills to recreate them with confidence. It’s a two day course that is jam-packed full of cutting demonstrations supported with hands-on workshops that will leave you raring to go! 30th-31st October, London Email, wellastudiolondon@cotyinc.com

WAHL ACADEMY Creative Advanced: Gents 2019 All serious professional barbers and hairdressers know how important it is to stay up-to-date with styles and techniques and get the most out of their skills. Creative Advanced Gents is made up of demonstrations and in depth practical sessions. It is ideal for updating basic skills and learning new advanced techniques such as Simon Shaw’s famous ‘flick & smack’ texturising method. 25th-26th November, Ramsgate Book online at, www.wahl.co.uk ANDIS Fades & Blades – Advanced Barbering Course For those that already have barbering experience, the Fades & Blades course will teach you all you need to know to create some of the most sort-after and fashionable hairstyles and beards in the barbering industry. 27th October, Cardiff Book online at, www.salon-services.com/training TIGI Men’s Classics On this two day course you’ll learn essential skills in cutting men’s hair, including layering, graduation, scissor-over-comb, and vertical, square and round shapes. You’ll gain in-depth knowledge of TIGI terminology and methodology and have a greater confidence in selecting and using products to create different styles for your male clients. 30th-31st October, London Email, uk.education@tigi.com


ADVERTORIAL

FRONT OF HOUSE Training and appreciation for your reception staff is the key to success in your salon business. A well-trained front-of-house team who feel valued and appreciated will make an amazing difference to the success of your business, says NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “The look and feel of your reception area is equally important – so make sure the design of your reception space reflects the overall look and feel of your salon, including mood lighting. Aim to make it a calm and uncluttered space with room for all-important touches such as fresh flowers and a bowl of sweets. A warm welcome “Your receptionist should welcome clients with good eye contact and a friendly smile. Using the client’s name when greeting them will also make them feel valued as an individual rather than just another client,” says Hilary. Offer good quality refreshments and snacks and make sure your waiting area is comfortable – away from draughty doors – with plenty of up-to-date magazines and newspapers. “Colouring sheets and books for children are a thoughtful touch if you have children in your salon, either for appointments or waiting for a parent,” says Hilary. NHF/NBF Members can download a detailed guide on how to provide an outstanding client experience: nhf.info/client-experience-guide Good goodbyes Great goodbyes are as important as offering a warm welcome when your clients arrive. Your receptionist should make sure your client is happy with everything before asking for payment and encourage them to leave positive online reviews.

“Your front-of-house team should also invite your clients to book their next appointment before leaving the salon,” says Hilary, “and make sure they know about any special offers or discounts they may be entitled to.” In addition, the reception team can help to boost retail sales by offering clients products that were used during their appointment. “You can also keep a basket of irresistible impulse buys at reception,” says Hilary. “For example, travel-size products in summer or ready-wrapped gifts at Christmas.” Find out how to make your staff retail savvy: nhf.info/retail Dealing with complaints Your reception team will often be in the firing line if a client wants to complain – either straight after their appointment or later on the telephone. “Make sure your front-of-house staff are familiar with your complaints policy and know how to react if they are on the receiving end of a complaint,” says Hilary. Find out more about handling complaints: nhf.info/ADR

The NHF/NBF For less than 75p a day, the NHF/NBF will help you boost your business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. You’ll wonder what you did without us! Find out more: www.nhf.info Join the NHF/NBF before the end of October 2019 and quote PHO25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 75


Profile for Hamerville Media Group

Professional Hairdresser October 19  

Professional Hairdresser October 19