(EN) Gwangju News January 2010 #95

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Gwangju News International Magazine for Gwangju and Jeollanam-do

January 2010 Volume 10, Issue 1


Editor’s Greeting

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ello and welcome to the January 2010 issue of Gwangju News, the first edition this new year.

This month contains several feature articles covering a diverse range of issues. Firstly, Maria Lisak invites readers to put their New Year's energy to good effect by explaining how to turn an idea into an actuality with the GIC, with details of what is required to initiate and run a GIC project. GIC is based on the efforts of volunteers, so if you've an idea knocking around, or have been talking about something for a while but never done anything about, this piece might have just the information you need to put something into effect.

For anyone wondering why the centre of Gwangju is currently an enormous construction site, Miriam Ho finds out what it's all about and and casts her architect's eye over the future Asian Culture Complex being built there. Plus David Little looks at the contrasting fortunes and struggles of Woochi Zoo in northern Gwangju, and Park Su-ji discusses the recent furor that erupted over a seemingly throwaway remark about men's height on a TV talk show. Alva French also reports back from a tour of one of the most heavily fortified borders on earth, at the Demilitarized Zone. There's the second part of Micheal Solis's investigation of the HIV testing requirements for E2 visa holders, and a look at how South Korea law can work for non-Koreans by Micheal Bielawski. Anna J. Martinez finds out about Korean cotton in fashion, and our monthly 2Ys column looks at how Korean nation building efforts are now serving as a template for other developing countries. Plus Jimmy Denfield introduces us to the best burger in Gwangju, and resident food critic Maria Lisak finds Vietnamese food in Sangmu. We hope you enjoy this issue, and wish all our readers a happy, healthy and prosperous 2010. Jon Ozelton, Editor

Copy Editor Position We're still looking for someone to fill the currently empty copy editor position here at Gwangju News. If you're interested, please read the roles and requirements below, and if it sounds like you, please contact us at gwangjunews@gmail.com. Roles: Copy edit the magazine. This entails spending around 3-4 hours, one day near the end of each month, to go through the final version of the magazine, correct errors, finalise content and ensure consistency of style and spelling in line with the magazine’s style guide.

Requirements: - have a good grasp of English, spelling and grammar - have a sharp eye for catching errors and inconsistencies - be able to visit GIC once a month for around 4 hours, between 10am and 6pm on a weekday

2010 GIC 1st Korean Language Class Weekday Classes - Period: January 11th – February 26th (Twice a week for 7 weeks) - Class hours: 10:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. (2 hours) - Tuition fee: 80,000 won (GIC membership fee: 10,000 won/ 6 months and textbooks excluded)

Saturday Classes - Period: January 9th – February 27th (Once a week for 7 weeks) - Class hours: 10:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. (2 hours) - Tuition fee: 50,000 won (GIC membership fee: 10,000 won/ 6 months and textbooks excluded)

Level

Textbook

Beginner 1-1

Seogang Hankookei 1A

Beginner 2-1

Seogang Hankookei 1B

Intermediate 2-2

Seogang Hankookei 2B

Level

Textbook

Beginner 1

Seogang Hankookei 1A

Beginner 2

Seogang Hankookei 1A

Intermediate 1

Seogang Hankookei 1B

Not*eThe tuition fee is non-refundable after the first week. ** A class may be canceled if less than 5 people sign up. GIC is located on the 5th floor of the Jeon-il building, the same building as the Korean Exchange Bank, downtown. The entrance is located immediately to the north of the bank. Contact GIC office for more information. Phone: 062-226-2733/4 E-mail: gwangjuic@gmail.com Website: www.gic.or.kr

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Gwangju News January 2010


Contributors

Contents Gwangju News January 2010, Volume 10, Issue 1

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The Korean Way No. 83: Saemaeul Movement, Nation Building By 2Ys

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GIC: Starting Your Own Project

Publisher: Prof. Shin Gyong-gu Editor in Chief: Doug Stuber

By Maria Lisak

Editor: Jon Ozelton

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Coordinator: Kim Minsu

DMZ: Symbol of Shaky Peace By Alva French

Layout and Design: Kim Minsu

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Proofreaders: Pete Schandall, Miriam Ho, Dan Lister, Michael Begin

Asian Culture Complex By Miriam Ho

Printed by: Saenal

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“Loser” Phenomenon Sweeps Korea By Park Su-ji

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Photographer: David Little

Woochi Zoo By David Little

Cover Photo: Pungam and the rest of Gwangju after the first snow.

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Useful Korean Phrases By Noh In-woo

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Special thanks to the City of Gwangju and all of our sponsors. Copyright by the Gwangju International Center.All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by this copyright may be reproduced in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise - without the written consent of the publishers. Gwangju News welcomes letters to the editor (gwangjunews@gmail.com) regarding articles and issues. All correspondence may be edited for reasons of clarity or space.

The Art of Limitation By Anna J. Martinez

Gwangju News uses 100% E-PLUS recycled paper provided by Daehan Paper in Seoul. www.daehanpaper.co.kr

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Victims of HIV-related Travel Restrictions in Korea By Michael Solis

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Photo Contest

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Traveling to Beijing By Doug Stuber

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A Very Brief History of the Tea Plant – Part 2 By Warren Parsons

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Su-neung and University Admissions in Korea By Ko Nam-il and Park Min-ji

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Unjusa Photo Essay By Simon Bond

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Legal Issues: How the Law Works for Non-Koreans in South Korea By Michael Bielawski

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The Lemon Table By Jimmy Denfield

Kim’ s Dental Clinic

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KoreaMaria: Hoa Binh Vietnamese Pho By Maria Lisak

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Cartoons By Leroy Kucia, Eric Park

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Upcoming Events Compiled by Ahn Hong-pyo, Park Su-ji,Park Min-ji, Ko Nam-il

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Community Board

Gwangju News January 2010

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The Korean Way

The Korean Way No. 83

Saemaeul Movement, Nation Building

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fter he led the successful coup d’état on May 16th, 1961, General Park Chung-hee’s primary concern was the economic development of Korea. He launched successive five-year economic development programs and his fourth such program was underway when he was assassinated on October 26th, 1979. His 18-year dictatorial rule may have caused some political problems including human rights abuses, but it is a general consensus that he laid a firm economic foundation on which to build the nation’s prosperity; thus Korea was lauded a miracle on the Han River. Aside from various industrial projects and undertakings to make the nation prosper, there is one area President Park placed a special emphasis on, that is, Saemaeul (New Village) Building. The traditional Korean society has been dominantly agricultural; farmers have comprised more than 70% of the population and until around mid-1960s, they could scarcely get through the difficult time of borigogae, that is, barley harvest season of June. Borigogae is literally “barley path” when the barley in the field is not quite ripe enough to be harvested but when the farmers ran out of grains to feed themselves and were almost starving. To survive, they will have to harvest the premature barley. This kind of quagmire of misery repeated itself until the 1960s. Now the younger generation, born and raised in affluent circumstances, does not quite understand borigogae.

When President Park initiated the Saemaeul movement in April 1970 embarking on the nation building through Saemaeul movement, the 4-lane expressway between Seoul and Busan was almost completed (July 1970). The total length of the highway was 428km and it took 2 years and 5 months to complete the work. The highway construction was reportedly done in the shortest period of time in the world history of highway building, with the least cost.

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Gwangju News January 2010

Symbol of Saemaeul movement

Korea Saemaeul Undong Center

This timing, that is, the completion of the expressway and the launch of Saemaeul movement at almost the same time, was very important for President Park because he wanted to instill into the minds of the masses the importance of diligence, self-reliance and co-operation, the mottos of Saemaeul movement. President Park took pains to make the people acquire the “Can do” spirit in whatever work they do. Every morning the villagers were awakened by a loud Saemaeul song blaring out from the loudspeakers installed at the village center. Around 1970, Korea overproduced cement and Park distributed this surplus cement to all villages, 300-350 bags each, and let them use it in whatever way they wanted to make village life better. After evaluation of this initial work, betterperforming villages got more rewards from the government. Thus, President Park encouraged goodwill competition among villages. It was not long before all the straw-thatched roofs were transformed into tile roofs along the Seoul-Busan Highway.


The Korean Way

Various overseas Saemaeul movements

It was with such boundless enthusiasm of the people for the betterment of Korean society that Korea could rise from the ashes of the war devastation sustained during 1950-1953. The miraculous economic recovery during the last few decades could be attributed to the three mottos of Saemaul movement. Farmers who previously had litttle desire to push ahead have now changed their attitude and are full of the “Can do” spirit. According to recent newspaper coverage, many developing countries around the world are making the Saemaeul movement a bench mark by which they can develop their own country economically. The list of these countries includes Congo, Cote d’Ivoire, Mozambique, Tanzania, Nepal, Mongolia, Cambodia, Vietnam, Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Philippines and some Pacific island countries. Even Harvard University seems to take interest in the Saemaeul movement for sociological study. The rural leaders from these

Korea Saemaeul Undong Center

developing countries take a very tight one-week training course, 12 hours a day. The course comprises “Saemaeul education and the role of the government,” ”Saemaeul movement and international cooperation,” “Case studies of overseas works,” “Rural development and Saemaeul movement.” A day’s work ends when the participants actively engage in discussions of problem solving depending on nationality. According to an official of the Saemaeul office, these overseas trainees from 92 countries amount to 47,000 and it is hoped that they really become ardent social reformers after they return home. They may encounter initial difficulties when they first try to do what they have learned in Korea. They should recognize and apply the importance of the leader’s dedication to the cause of community improvement. By 2Ys (An audacious pen name standing for Too Wise, whose real name acronym is S. S. S.)

Gwangju News January 2010

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GIC Feature

GIC: Starting your own project How to start something: Have an idea Talk with others Make a team Write a proposal Present to decision makers Manage your project Ask for help when needed Get feedback from others

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IC is only as good at its volunteers. Gwangju News is run by volunteers. As is the new GAIA Gallery, Kids GIC, Jr GIC, the Saturday GIC Talk . . . well, everything, just about. GIC has been bombarded by Gwangju City and the Ministry of Sports and Culture with requests to do event management and training of all sorts. But what makes GIC so cool, is that our director, Dr. Gyonggu Shin, gives the reins of GIC to whoever steps up with an idea. I have been volunteering since 2003 in a host of roles, projects and programs. Some I just added my energy to, others were ideas or passions I had to see happen in our Gwangju community.

A Great Role Model for Volunteer Leadership: Sara Epp One of the program births I was fortunate enough to witness was the emergence of art within the GIC family. Sara Epp and Victoria Heaton Jung approached with an idea. This idea happened because of a proposal they wrote and the energy they invested into this GIC

project. This little snowflake of art for teen girls on Saturdays, has kept rolling and has turned into the snowball of the GIC Artist Collective and the snow sculpture of GAIA Gallery. In an interview with Sara, she was kind enough to share some of the lessons she learned from started these projects with GIC. Some of the lessons learned include: - Make a plan or WH proposal: what’s your idea, how will you make it happen, why is it important, timeline, who benefits? - Share your bio or list of your knowledge and skills – what makes you have credibility? - Talk about your plan with like-minded people. - Collaborate with others. Best friends can emerge from the collaborative team. - Find good matches – think of power dynamics, openness and flexibility when team building - Introduce yourself to the decision makers. - Make sure your commitment is based on genuine need and that you are willing to see things through. - Make sure the process is healthful and fun. If it feels like work, people bail. Take breaks and find balance. - Formal leadership is not needed, but let everyone involved emerge to share control and manage the process. - Think about how to transition out when you are ready to leave the project. - Make a list: ‘What do you give?’ and ‘What do you get?’

Sara has had lots of experience and interest in community work prior to throwing her energy GIC’s way. She took her experience of proposal writing and socializing and started talking and writing about what she wanted to give back to the Gwangju community. Identifying the difficulties of expressing one’s voice in a male-dominated culture like Korea, Sara started having discussions about her interests and experiences within a new cultural context. One of these discussions was with Victoria Heaton Jung. Sara emphasized in our interview that some of her best friends have emerged through pursuing her interests. By putting herself out there with “talk” Sara was able to find others that shared and expanded upon her idea. From attending a GIC Talk, Sara asked some questions and was connected to more people. From this, things

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Gwangju News January 2010


GIC Feature

started to gel from talk and relationship building into writing and networking with decision makers. I remember the gratefulness I felt when I got to meet with Dr Shin, Sara and Victoria – people with ideas, energy AND organizational skills. Through the proposal, Dr Shin was able to understand their vision, connect it to GIC’s mission statement, identify what resources could be provided by GIC and, voila, the proposal became a GIC project. Of course, all the planning in the world cannot fully prepare anyone – sponsor, facilitator, or participant – for what lessons lie ahead in implementation.

Ideas into Action – Some Advice A Flexible Plan

A plan, especially in Korea, does not have to be the final prototype after several iterations of user testing and focus groups. Seldom does our community have the leisure of extensive research. GIC projects and programs are a type of action research – we learn as we go. We are able to improve things the next go around. Ebb & Flow of Our Institutional Knowledge Bank

In GIC’s efforts to master the administration and management of different programs, we have a particular problem that has continuously emerged. This problem is a loss of institutional knowledge because of a loss of volunteers from churn. Because expats that have volunteered are on short contracts – one year is still pretty standard – a strong expat leader like Sara can generate great programs, but sustaining these programs after leaders such as herself go on to life’s next adventure have been a stumbling block for GIC. Fortunately, the GAIA Gallery and the Artist Collective have several strong Korean and expat leaders, strengthening the length of life that these programs and projects will enjoy and give back to the GIC and Gwangju community. Volunteer Leadership

The programs that have stabilized over the years have been the Korean classes, the Talk Series, and to some extent Gwangju News (however, we still have instability regarding distribution and advertising). These programs have stabilized because of strong Korean GIC staff members and long term expats. Programs such as the monthly tours, movie night, and English versions of the annual report and monthly members’ newsletters run irregularly or have disappeared entirely because of lack of volunteer leadership. Growth Pains

GIC does a lot of things well, but we are struggling

because of the growth that we are experiencing. We serve the Korean and expat communities with more services and products than ever before, but we are not reaching expats sufficiently and quickly enough when they come to Gwangju. The expat community also suffers in that it is fractured into segments – Filipino groups, Migrant groups, foreign brides of Koreans, ESL teachers. We are also experiencing stress from the growth Gwangju city is putting on Gwangju itself to become more internationalized and more culturally sensitive in preparation of the 2015 Universiade. For GIC to survive and thrive in this stressful growth stage, we need your help to move to the next level. This does not have to be a leveling up, but rather a widening and deepening of our organization. We need to expand like a breath, not grow into a corporation. We have grown very fast, but we do not want to become NGO bureaucrats. Ideas into Action

We can avoid this misstep by encouraging you to step forward and turn your idea into action. If you have an idea, stop by a grant proposal workshop to flesh out your idea into an action plan. Need to meet like minded people? Join a Talk of your interest, or give a Talk on your topic of interest. Write a Gwangju News article. Ask for support on the Gwangju Facebook group. Financially we are supported by Gwangju city, an angel investor, and minimally from membership fees. The only program sustaining itself financially is the Korean Language Program. Programs and projects at GIC come to life because people care and support each other. The underlying mantra to our growth is one that is fundamentally abundant – “resources will materialize, if people care.” With more and more diversity becoming the norm in Korea, we can help Gwangju to be empowered by this change. Gwangju is known for its freedom fighters. Fighting for freedom these days means surviving and adapting to an ever changing field of diversity while nurturing self and group identities respectfully. It is through interaction and dialog of our interests and passions that we can help the expats in Gwangju connect to the Koreans in Gwangju in respectful and joy-filled opportunities to share this point in time with each other. Sara is one of expats encouraging this to happen by doing what she loves and sharing her talents, skills and energy wherever she goes. GIC invites you to do the same as well. By Maria Lisak

Gwangju News January 2010

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Discover Korea

DMZ:

Symbol of a Shaky Peace

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few friends and I had been on a bus since 2 a.m. from Gwangju in order to make the 7 a.m. call time at Seoul’s Camp Kim for the USO DMZ Tour. Arriving there on a chilly December morning at the crack of dawn perhaps made us a little more wired than usual. As the day unfolded, despite our lack of sleep we somehow propelled through a busy day of hiking and sightseeing within visibility of North Korea. Our every move was being monitored by the North and South; the tension in the air was palpable. Visiting the DMZ was not a typical tourist attraction, but a fascinating glimpse into a lasting relic of the Cold War and our reclusive neighbors to the North. The DMZ, or Demilitarized Zone, separating North Korea from South Korea was created in 1953 at the end of the Korean War through the Armistice of July 27, 1953. Running at the 38th parallel, the area represents

a buffer between North and South that is 155 miles (248km) long and 2.5 miles (4km) wide. The 38th parallel divided the peninsula in half and reflects the former U.S. and Soviet zones on either side. Today it is one of the most tensely militarized borders in the world. The Military Demarcation Line (MDL) illustrates the exact point at which both military fronts stopped fighting and agreed to the Armistice; however, since a peace treaty was never signed, both sides technically continue to be at war. While soldiers (American, South Korean and North Korean) on both sides may patrol the DMZ per the Armistice through the UN Command (UNC), crossing the MDL is out of the question and could result in severe aggression from either side if not respected. U.S. Officer Juarez, our guide and official military escort for the USO DMZ tour, brought us to Camp Bonifas, the base camp for the UN Command Security Force Joint

South Korean soldiers stand watch in front of Conference Row Military Armistice Commission buildings. 8

Gwangju News January 2010


Discover Korea

Left: U.S. Officer Juarez forcefully issues instructions on how to act at Conference Row. Right: Guards at the pagoda in the Joint Security Area

Security Area (JSA). Just having a military escort seemed to heighten the uneasiness we felt as we entered the heavily guarded JSA. As we continued to be briefed on how to behave while at Conference Row, we walked through Freedom House, a building erected by South Korea to host family reunions among members separated by the Korean War and the ensuing split on the peninsula. Unfortunately, we were told no such reunions had actually taken place since it opened in the1990s due to a lack of cooperation from the North. “No hand gestures; no waving; no sign language; no pointing! [while standing in front of the JSA facing the North Korean side],” we were warned by Officer Juarez. While standing in front of Conference Row at JSA facing the Military Demarcation Line, we were as close as we could get to North Korea without causing an international incident or having a very elusive entry visa. As we walked through Freedom House with a surprisingly ostentatious chandelier in the otherwise drab concrete building, we noticed discreetly placed South Korean soldiers dressed in green suits watching us at short range. We walked outside and saw Conference Row – a row of low blue houses serving as the location of the Military Armistice Commission Buildings. These buildings play host to meetings essential to maintaining the 1953 Armistice Agreement.

Facing us just beyond the ubiquitous UN flags and Conference Row houses was Pamun-gak, North Korea’s counterpart to the South’s Freedom House across the street. North Korea was straight ahead, its lone soldier guarding the entrance. We were told our every move was still being monitored and the ‘no gesturing’ directive was taken seriously even if one casually raised his/her hand to ask a question. “Why are some soldiers standing with their legs shoulder-width apart, some with their backs to us, others facing us?” I asked as I waved my hand discreetly, the way you hail a cab Korean style, with palms down. Officer Juarez responded they were South Korean soldiers looking out for our safety from both sides as we stood there. Other soldiers in camouflage moved about watching us, watching them. The air was still. Our apprehension was building. Officer Juarez went on to mention that as the North watches us, they make gestures hoping to provoke us such as slashing throat gestures and using their middle fingers. Fortunately, we were not brought to the area where this was visible, but just knowing this occurred made some want to reciprocate. This was quickly quashed by Officer Juarez’s forceful tone reiterating the initial instruction from earlier that day. We later walked outside to the pagoda adjacent to the Freedom House, where we were told about various Gwangju News January 2010

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Discover Korea

A colorful DMZ welcome sign is at odds with the military tension of the DMZ.

attempts at defection from North to South. We saw an enormous North Korean flag waving in the distance – one of the biggest on Earth, according to Officer Juarez. The flag was yet another reminder of our close proximity to the cloistered North. We headed back to the base camp to buy souvenirs. Replicas of North Korean won and authentic bottles of wine as well as military gear seemed most popular. Later, we went to the 3rd Tunnel by bus and left our military escort behind. Then, we watched an informative film on the discovery of the tunnels leading from the North to the South. We learned that while only four tunnels have been discovered since 1974, experts suspect that up to ten exist that were designed by the North to launch sneak attacks on Seoul. Eventually, we headed down the 3rd Tunnel with hard hats and without cameras. While the North maintained the tunnels were built as coal mines and even painted the walls black to further justify themselves, geologists argue this implausibility given the topology of the rock bed and the direction the original rock blasts were made. Hearing this and other facts drives the message home that this was no ordinary tourist spot. The DMZ statues and playful figurines outside the entrance belie the unsettling nature of the information we gained. Finally, we made it to the Dora Observatory where we could see Kijong-dong or Propaganda Village, the

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Gwangju News January 2010

façade of a city designed by North Korea to show it as a prosperous country. Propaganda literally is blasted from speakers around the town extolling the virtues of the North to the folks in neighboring Taesong-dong six to twelve hours a night. Through binoculars you could see the desolation of Kijong-dong and wonder what was really going on behind the scenes. Across the way, we could see Freedom village or Taesong-dong, where Koreans who have ancestral roots there have stayed to maintain their homes under certain conditions. The only legal inhabitants of the area receive tax breaks and other benefits that encourage them to stay despite living in the heart of an age-old war zone. On our way back to Seoul, we learned of the nature preserve that is being maintained on the grounds of the DMZ despite the immeasurable number of landmines and constant military patrols. Many endangered species are apparently thriving there due to protection from industrial pollution normally found in densely populated areas. Even DMZ Water is ironically sold in the South, marketing the sense of peace this natural haven evokes. While this illustrates how barriers are being eradicated, will it ever really lead to a genuine peace on the peninsula? One can only wonder. Even without North Korea in sight, the gravity of an uneasy peace was very alive. Words and photos by Alva French


Feature

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ince the tragic events of the May 18th democratic uprising, our ‘City of Light‘ has actively emphasized "art to brighten the dark reality of Korean separation."[1] Gwangju's contemporary art and design biennales are of international renown, and at the Geumnam-no rotary where the 1980 massacre occurred, construction is underway for a 178,199 square metre cultural complex and urban park. This is the Asian Culture Complex, which has exhibition space, an arts theatre, a children's museum, facilities to house education and research institutes, and a May 18th memorial hall, and is part of an ambitious endeavour to brand Gwangju as a "Hub City of Asian Culture," a northeast asian art capital with a reputation for liberal thought. Commemoration and urban renewal are the prevailing motivations for this project, which was inaugurated in 2004 by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism with a 5.3 trillion won budget – making it the largest national culture project in Korean history. Construction of the Asian Culture Complex is only the first stage in a

Construction site of the Asian Culture Complex

scheme that envisions Gwangju as seven integrated zones, each focused on an art, technology or ecology industry. This discourse of democracy, communication, and harmony with nature forms the backdrop for Kyu Sung Woo's winning design. Like many contemporary architects who use landscape to mediate built form and nature, Woo sculpts the earth to create a memorial park replete with flowering trees and bamboo groves. New buildings are submerged underground, evocatively lit by crystalline shafts that make up a "forest of light" on the plaza above. The subterranean strategy showcases historic buildings designated to remain on site: the 1910 provincial hall and police agency, where bullet holes can still be seen on the walls, and Sangmoo Hall across the street, where the dead were initially kept and identified. Woo's submission was chosen by an international jury of three Korean design professionals and five overseas representatives, on the strength of his tribute to the monuments of the massacre.

Miriam Ho Gwangju News January 2010

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Feature

"I first and foremost thought of ways to conjure up such memories in the mind of visitors," declares Woo, a Korean-American architect who has practiced for thirty years in Korea and the USA, most notably building the 1988 Olympic Village in Seoul. He goes on to say that he wishes to create an "Asian spatial structure. " The composition of the complex is based on the plan of a traditional Korean estate, with buildings grouped at the periphery, looking in on a symbolic madang (open stage), the memorial square. Access from all directions, subway links, and a system of terraces and ramps encourage visitors to move freely from the city to the square, emblematic of open communication.

100 billion won a year. A few teenage students touring the Hub exhibits voice their objections against government spending on such an exorbitant scheme. Opposition parties question the market demand for cultural industries, and call for downsizing or halting the plan altogether.

While precedent exists for successful cultural attractions below ground, – witness I. M. Pei's renovation of the Louvre Museum in Paris, or the popular underground shopping mall Forum des Halles, local businesses were disappointed that Gwangju would not get a new iconic building.

the hall is destroyed. Woo's practice is revising their design to preserve the contested wing.

"They expected a landmark," explains Lee Jeong-ah, an education outreach staff at the Hub City of Asian Culture headquarters. "Something that could bring in a lot of tourists." Shop owners, restaurants, and small industries that have toured the Hub City exhibits all repeat that the underground scheme undermines business. Sharper criticism of the enterprise comes from individuals pessimistic about the economic viability of the plan. A 2008 Seoul National University study expects the entire Hub City project to yield a deficit of

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Gwangju News January 2010

Construction, which began in 2008, did halt when relatives of May 18th victims protested the demolition of the south wing of the provincial hall (see Gwangju News June 2009). A 1970s extension with little architectural merit, it would be knocked down to make way for a major entrance to the park. But for those who have lost loved ones in the massacre, "the meaning of what remains will be lessened as a symbol"[2] if half

Metaphor and meaning in Woo's design are imbued with an environmental consciousness. This integration of visual poetry and green building has earned Woo high praise in international architecture reviews. In addition to improving air quality and reducing storm water runoff with a lush green roof, the design maximizes daylight, harvests solar energy, and uses efficient glazing and thermal mass to eliminate heat loss. Overall, the building is expected to generate 40% energy savings over a conventional building and qualifies for the highest rating from Korea's Green Building Council. At the very least, Woo's design provides a much needed civic park in the industrial fabric of Gwangju. This open green space, which will be vegetated with 30,000


Feature

flowering arbours, is also strategically perforated by skylights, clerestories, and light shelves to bring sunlight into the buildings below. Conversely, at night, the lighted building interiors dramatically illuminate the roofscape. The centrepiece of the memorial square is a 25m-high glass atrium that straddles the old provincial hall and police agency. Glass has a low insulating value, so this "light box" is double-glazed to prevent heat loss in the winter. In the summer, not unlike a greenhouse, glass roofs and curtain walls amplify the sun's rays, resulting in overheating and high air-conditioning bills. To provide solar shading, traditional Korean motifs are fritted onto the glass, so that the building skin has a translucency and lustre reminiscent of that ephemeral Korean pottery, celadon. A solar collector located on the northwest quarter of the park produces 20% of the building's energy on site, while a geothermal heating system uses the natural storage capacity of the ground to maintain constant temperatures, thereby conserving energy. A lowpressure outdoor air displacement ventilation system also takes advantage of natural convection forces to provide good indoor air quality. In a scheme aiming for a sustainable future, the Asian Culture Complex sets a solid precedent by bringing together commemoration and cost-reducing environmental benefits. When the Asian Culture Complex is completed in 2013, I hope to meander through this verdant cultural sanctuary and reflect upon man's relationship to society, progress, and nature.

Footnotes: [1] Quotation from the mayor of Gwangju, March 27th 2000 www.absolutearts.com/artsnews/2000/03/27/26752.html [2] see Gwangju News June 2009 By Miriam Ho Miriam studied architecture and has worked with awardwinning architects Dominique Perrault and Shigeru Ban in Paris and New York. Images by Office for Hub City of Asian Culture

Gwangju News January 2010

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Current Issue

“Loser” Phenomenon Sweeps Korea

N

owadays, many native English speakers in Korea will have noticed an upsurge in young Koreans’ use of the word ‘Loser’. Considering its offensive meaning it is pretty strange that it would suddenly become more and more popular these days. The reason for this new phenomenon is entirely due to one episode of a popular TV show that aired on November 9th on KBS.

The talk show, ‘미녀들의 수다’ (“Minyeodeurui Suda”, translated as “Chitchat of Beautiful Ladies” on the KBS website) aims to meet and understand the differences in thought between Koreans and Korean culture through its non-Korean panelists. To fulfill this purpose, there are about 20 non-Korean women as regular panelists to tell the story of their experiences in The TV Talk Show guest making her now infamous ‘loser’ comment KBS Korea, their home countries and their countries cultures. Countries represented include USA, UK, China, Japan, Vietnam, Germany, France, etc. The couldn’t attend her classes nor finish her semester. She ‘loser’ controversy stemmed from an episode where was forced into shutting down her packed-with-curses those foreign women met Korean university girls and personal homepage. The accusations lasted for about shared their ideas on many issues two months and the word together. Among them, one “Since a person’ ‘loser’ suddenly became a new s appearance is asked, “Can I can date a man of popular slang in Korea. It lost becoming important in today’s short stature?” Concerning this its original meaning, and here society, I think a man’s height is issue, one of the Korean guests only meant ‘A guy whose one of his attributes. So I think a replied: “Since a person’s stature is less than 180cm’, no man whose height is less than appearance is becoming matter how handsome or smart 180cm is a loser.”Talk Show guest important in today’s society, I or successful he is. On the think a man’s height is one of his other hand, a guy taller than attributes. So I think a man whose height is less than 180cm became a so called ‘Winner’ no matter how 180cm is a loser.” unattractive or dimwitted, as a kind of sarcastic expression about this recent issue. Even many Even though she only mentioned men’s height for celebrities (often considered very successful and merely a minute, the impact it made on Korean society influential) joined in the trend by calling themselves a was beyond imagination. According to research by the loser. Many parodies like TOMC Loser, Wayne Loser, Military Manpower Administration of Korea, the the War of Losers, were made. average height of Korean men between 19-24 years old was 175cm in 2008, less that the 180cm she talked Those people who accuse her are saying she was a about. This means the young woman’s words are typical young Korean woman who is obsessed with offensive to the majority of Korean men. She had looks and shamelessly, even proudly, talks about it on touched a sleeping lion’s whiskers, and the result was public broadcasting as if every young Korean woman tremendous. Many people began to accuse her of thinks exactly the same way. They say, considering the reckless commentary and attacked her personal life. context, that as she was a sort of representative of all Her personal information including her school, past intelligent and educated Korean college women, she photos, and homepage were displayed on the Internet, should have been more careful about her words. In her and were derided by many people. Due to all the defense, the guest said that the ‘loser’ comment was accusations from anonymous individuals, the girl scripted and she was only following the programs

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Gwangju News January 2010


Current Issue

directions, focusing criticism onto the show itself. The issues those women talked about on the episode were very sensitive and controversial, so people accused the show of becoming too obsessed with its viewership and tried to make itself as sensational as possible, and so eventually this kind of incident was inevitable. Other issues included ‘How a man should treat a woman on a date’, ‘Can I can marry a man without love if the conditions are okay?’ and ‘Dating and marriage are separate matters’. The TV show issued an apology on its website and several producers and writers took the responsibility about this event and were changed. According to a research report done recently by Seoul University, women in Korea’s average most favored height for a man is 177.34cm. It is little bit higher than the 175cm Korean men’s average height, but it is lower than the ‘loser’ standard 180cm. What this result is

saying is the number 180 rarely means anything, even though a huge fuss has been made out of it. In reality, the media have been presenting us with the unrealistic figures of celebrities and praising it as the beauty standard. It has been silently putting pressure on average men to be taller and average women to be thinner, making people feel less about themselves. Even without this recent ‘loser’ happening, this misplaced media reality would have caused serious questions someday in near future. It is deplorable that it came out in this way, and caused a lot of noise in society targeting one person who made a seemingly throwaway comment, but this occurrence lets us think a lot about certain aspects of our, Korean culture. We should not condemn a person for her mistake or her opinion, but instead realize that what really matters in a person lies not in the outside, but in the inside. By Park Su-ji

A Monthly International Magazine -

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Gwangju News January 2010

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Woochi Zoo

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Gwangju News January 2010


Feature

Opposite page: Woochi Zoo entrance Insets: An elephant at the park Above: Various animals living in Woochi Zoo

W

oochi Park nestles cozily in the hills of northern Ilgok-Dong. Serving in combination with Family Land as Gwangju’s main entertainment complex, Woochi Park has been fairly successful since it opened in 1992. Woochi Park has introduced more than 500 animals to the Gwangju community including animals from all seven continents. The zoo sits on a track of land nearly 100,000 square meters in size and ranks as one of the biggest in Jeollanam-do. Currently the zoo’s breeding program has added to the ranks of captive animals, spawning triplet lion cubs as well as triplet tiger cubs this past summer. The babies have been available for viewing since October 1st. In addition to animals, the zoo features a botanical garden that has more than 270 different species of plants and vegetation. Yet, despite its recent success the zoo is currently under financial stress due to several separate issues.

elephant rides (5,000 ten-minutes) and elephant feedings (2,000 for a bag of carrots), the monetary struggle has taken a toll on the physical appearance of the zoo. Like a long abandon theme park, many of the enclosures display over-used and under-maintained features. Many of the water areas for animals such as seals, hippos, and penguins including the aviary are either at extremely low levels or completely empty. Organic materials, as simple as dirt, grass or trees, are non-existent, save for a handful of enclosures. The disrepair of the park has negatively influenced some viewers’ sentiment and has further added to the issues faced by the park.

According a full-time staff at Kumho Resort, Woochi Park and Family Land have been financially stressed due to the worldwide recession and an H1N1 conscious community. The zoo has experienced a significant drop in attendance since the past year. Also, for Woochi Park, at an entrance fee of only 1,500 won, the resources to support the animals, let alone renovate or improve the facility have been very, if not impossibly, difficult. While the park has attempted to bolster its bottom line by introducing interactive activities like

Later in the interview the mother said that she doesn’t like visiting zoos in general but that she wanted to take her kids to see the animals.

“Once [to visit] is enough,” said a Korean mother who took her kids there last spring. “The decorations for each animal’s house were so miserable. It just looked like a cell.”

“I think they enjoyed it,” she said. Foreigner response has been similarly negative, citing the animals’ poor health conditions and non-aesthetic enclosures as major deterrents from revisiting the park. During several interviews, suggestions were made to improve the overall park’s theme as well as add some

Gwangju News January 2010

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Feature

Animals at the park often appeared lethargic and in poor moods.

aesthetic elements to the enclosures. Hopefully these suggestions can help rejuvenate a park that has much potential. “They have enough variety of species to make it a considerable zoo,” said Paul Bishop who visited the zoo with his girlfriend in May. He said that during his visit the zoo looked run-down and he noticed that there were very few visitors that day. “The most shocking thing is that you don’t have to be a zoologist or a vet to know that these animals are suffering,” said Bishop. The general poor health and poor mood of the animals is evident. Yet as a prominent attraction in Gwangju and Jeollanam-do, the Kumho Resort area should be applauded for resilience over the past 18 years and its effort to increase the numbers of animals through their successful breeding program.

A Hopeful Picture An evolving standard has risen from zoos in larger cities that have seen their budgets balloon in recent years due to growing populations and popularity of animal-to-human interaction. Zoos, such as the one in Seoul, Everland’s Zootopia, are continuing to develop innovative enclosures that enhance the view of the onlooker as well as provide a safe and natural environment for the animals themselves. The sort of combination of entertainment and education has become the new standard among leading zoos. Despite the progress and improvement in the major metropolitan cities there remain huge gaps among

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Gwangju News January 2010

places deprives of opulent finances. When compared to the other Korean animal habitats, it is clear that Woochi Park simple does not have to budget to compete with the other major attractions. “Obviously they are operating on a different budget,” said Bishop. While the stats of Woochi Park are comparable to classic zoos around the world, it fails to serve as the functional, educational facility that has become the new standard. However, while the responsibility for the facilities and condition of the animals ultimately rests with the park, visitors at Woochi Park are often displaying disregard for the animals’ well-being and have further added to its negative image. On a moment-by-moment basis the malnourished animals were observed greedily accepting food from visitors. Baboons eagerly choked down stale popcorn and chimpanzees battled to soften the dried squid. The health of the animals will be compromised by the influence of non-natural feed, but due to low staffing this type of behavior by thoughtless visitors has gone unchecked. The zoo may currently be facing several serious issues, but its potential to serve as an adaptive educational facility for the residents of Gwangju is not out of its grasp. Woochi Park, with its beautiful setting, variety of animals and improving breeding program, has all the ingredients to serve as a valuable asset and attraction for Gwangju and Jeollanam-do, which only makes its current state all the more lamentable. Words and photos by David Little


Useful Korean Phrases

무 슨 N 을 V 할 건 데 요? What N do you want to V?

Vocabulary Dialog A: 이번 주말에 영화를 보러 갈 생각이에요. [Ibeon jumale yeonghwareul boreo saenggakieyo.] A: I will go and watch a movie this weekend.

gal

이번: This (ex: This weekend) 주말: Weekend 영화: Movie 추천: Recommendation 그럼,: Then, 국가대표: ‘National team’ (movie title)

Grammar B: 무슨 영화를 볼 건데요? [Museun yeonghwareul bol geondeyo?] B: What movie do you want to watch? A: 아직 정하지 않았어요. 혹시 추천 할만한 영화 있 나요? [Ajik jeonghaji anaseoyo. hoksi chucheon halmanhan yeonghwa itnayo?] A: I didn’t decide yet. Could you recommend some? B: 사람들이‘국가대표’라는 영화가 재미있다고 하 더군요. [Salamdeuli ‘gukgadaepyo’raneun yeonghwaga jaemiitdago hadeogunyo.] B: My friends recommended ‘National Team’. A: 그래요? B씨는 그 영화 보셨어요? [Geureayo? B ssineun geu yeonghwa bosyeoseoyo?] A: Really? Did you see it? B: 아니요. 아직 못 봤어요. [Aniyo. ajik mot bwatseoyo.] B: No, I didn’t. A: 그럼, 이번 주말에 같이 보러 가는 건 어때요? [Geureom, ibeon jumale gatchi boreo ganeun geon eottaeyo?] A: Then, how about going to watch it together this weekend? B: 좋아요. [Joayo.] B: Sounds great.

을 V할 할 건 데 요? 1. 무슨 N을 (What N do you want to V?) This is an expression for asking something that person wants. In this sentence N could be noun like movies, foods and books etc. V could be verb like see, eat and read. ‘무슨 음식을 먹을 건데요? (What foods do you want to eat?)’ ‘무슨 책을 읽을 건데요? (What books do you want to read?)’

Vocabulary Exercise In this letter grid, try to find as many Korean words as possible, joining letters horizontally, vertically or diagonally.

가 죽 사 혜 호 획 지 삭

장 주 말 일 박 물 관 당

연 확 문 장 액 밥 알 프

바 리 공 버 식 화 장 실

설 님 병 원 융 우 미 인

인 숙 미 구 류 감 고 실

홀 잘 육 치 이 자 진 래

이 푸 신 찰 숫 하 라 휴

The answers are on page 42

By No In-woo A freshman at Chonnam National University.

Gwangju News January 2010

19


Interview

The Art of Limitation: Bringing Korean Cotton to the World

T

he tradition of Moo-myung: Korean Cotton dates back to 1363, near the end of the Koryo Dynasty. It was said to have been brought to Korea by Ik-jeom Moon, a diplomat sent to China, who smuggled back with him a handful of cotton seeds, hidden in the bristles of a paintbrush. Before Koreans were able to dress in cotton, their garments were fashioned out of hemp, a material unsuitable for the country’s biting winters. Thus, cotton transformed clothing in Korea, providing the common man with an abundant crop to harvest and weave. The name Moo-myung not only signifies the fabric itself, but the process of creating it. A practice that is as arduous as it is mediative, symbolizing the industriousness of the Korean people and their inherent connection with nature.

The designer Kwang-Ja Moon came to work with Moomyung at a time when the creation of this ancestral cloth was in danger of disappearing entirely. During the Japanese occupation, Korea was introduced to imported cotton: mass-produced and inexpensive, which threatened to make Moo-myung obsolete. Yet, a chance meeting with an expert dyer still involved with the craft led Kwang-Ja Moon to a new source of inspiration, finding joy in the challenge of working with this vanishing art form. “Limitation breeds unlimited creation, this has been my philosophy throughout the many years of my work,” says Kwang-Ja Moon. We sit in her Euro-inspired cafe, the second floor of the building she has named “Demain Art Hall,” after her clothing line. “Demain,” meaning “tomorrow” in French, nods to the designer’s undeniably international quality, and to the edifice itself, whose granite facade and rod-iron accents utter something distinctly Parisian. The cafe in which we sit seems to demonstrate her trusted philosophy; leather chairs and couches a uniformed black, the long, uncluttered bar in that same hue. The occasional hissing of the espresso machine the only soundtrack to the space, making the effect one of restraint yet full of expression, and thus, exemplary of Kwang-Ja Moon’s unique aesthetic. Like a modern day salon, Demain Art Hall is devoted to the creation and experience of the arts, sciences and

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Gwangju News January 2010

Fashion designer Kwang-Ja Moon

Demain Art Hall

culture et al. In addition to the cafe, the white-washed, art-filled interior of Demain Art Hall features Kwang-Ja Moon’s boutique and atelier, a music performance hall and the offices of her husband, Moo Suk Lee, one of only five practicing psychoanalysts in Korea. “I feel nothing, no emotion, when I work with modern textiles,” she discloses as we pour over the photographs of her collection. “But there is something very warm and alluring about the Korean cotton.” She explains that Moomyung is, in fact, quite a difficult fabric to create with; given that the only available measurement of the cloth is a finite thirty-three centimeters. Furthermore the impressive density of the material, which makes it so exceptional in the winter, generates quite a task to trim and manipulate. These are some of the many limitations Kwang-Ja Moon encountered when she fell in love with Moo-myung. Another was that of color. Given the


Interview

Four of Moon’s cotton creations (l-to-r) Leaves, Harmony, Example of a box coat, Thin Strips

traditional method of natural dyeing, the Korean cotton is created in a specific assortment of pigments; a deep indigo the classic hue. However, this proved no obstacle for Kwang-Ja Moon, as she celebrated the organic and unrefined quality of the colors and found energy in every challenge. Featuring delicate shift dresses to androgynous box coats, KJ Moon’s collection is indisputably diverse, despite the many restrictions of Moo-myung. One particular gown is outwardly Victorian in form, with a raised skirt and empire bodice, while another, made from the delicate interlacing of straw-colored fabric, would be at home on a dancer at the 1969 Woodstock Music Festival, the cotton strips of this billowing frock flying with every spin. Many of KJ Moon’s pieces speak to the Korean ideology of harmony with nature. “The countless seasons of Korea, birds flying through the sky, pebbles being thrown into a pond; these are all sources of inspiration for me,” KJ Moon reveals. The piece entitled “Leaves” has a philosophical significance as KJ Moon sought to visually

Demain Art Hall

convey “how abundant our minds can be, like the autumn leaves that are piling all over the place.” The acclaimed Moo-myung collection has been referred to as ‘sculpture for the body,’ and has established KwangJa Moon as one of the pioneers of Art to Wear from the Eastern World. She has been invited to show her collection in Tokyo, Paris and New York, among other countries. Thus, some of her designs have acquired a rather universal motif: the most exemplary of these pieces named “Harmony” representing all the nations of the world in peaceful union. “Many people think that, because of the material I chose, my designs are wholly Korean. But I believe they are, above all, international.” With all her worldly vision, Kwang-Ja Moon still remains proudly and quintessentially Korean. “Koreans are wonderful artists and designers,” she says with a smile in her eyes. “Our hands are naturally strong and delicate.” And with a laugh she adds: “It is because we train with chopsticks.” By Anna J. Martinez

Visit Demain Art Hall in Downtown Gwangju at: Demain Building, Sa-dong 76, Nam-gu, Gwangju Phone; (062)651-4117 www.demain.co.kr

Left: Demain Art Hall Interior and entrance

Gwangju News January 2010

21


Feature

Victims of HIV-related Travel Restrictions in Korea Two women tell their stories of discrimination

I

n light of Korea's E-2 visa restrictions that have made HIV-testing mandatory for all instructors who wish to teach or maintain their jobs in Korea, two women have stood up against policies that they believe to be discriminatory. But at what cost?

Andrea's Story Andrea Vandom, a 31-year-old from the United States, first came to Korea in February 2006. Using her Masters of Arts in Education, Vandom mainly taught English to freshmen college students at Chung Ang University. She also created an outdoors class experience where students could learn vocabulary and language while playing sports, and co-published two textbooks through the university. Andrea's first contract was for two years, and during that time Chung Ang University never had an HIVtesting policy. It was 2008 when Vandom noticed that her school was beginning to enforce the testing that the Ministry of Justice had put into place in 2007. "My visa renewal came up in March 2008," writes Andrea. "I had heard of the new regulations through the grapevine. I thought surely they wouldn't be targeted towards me – I'd been living and working in Korea for two years. I cleared immigration the first time, had good standing with my university and my job in no way was related to the transmission of AIDS." "Given how long I was in the country already, it was illogical to require me to submit these documents. And I was being pinpointed as a disease carrier simply because I am not of Korean blood." A year later, Vandom's visa was up for renewal. She was in the process of applying to PhD programs in Korea when the Korean Immigration Service asked her for her AIDS and drug test documents, which she did not have. They granted her a 30-day extension and threatened her with deportation if the paperwork was not received. Vandom felt like the actions against her were illogical and discriminatory. 22

Gwangju News January 2010

"Suddenly they saw me as morally suspect and a threat to the community because I was a foreigner. I was very offended. In addition, the regulations were implying that people with HIV were also morally suspect and a threat to the community." Given spotlight in the HIV/AIDS testing debate with a landmark case that has gone all the way to the Constitutional Court, Vandom has been attacked by both Koreans and foreigners who accuse her of breaking the law. However, the law as she interprets it, should be based on Korea's Constitution and the treaties Korea has signed, which include the International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights and the International Convention on the Elimination of all Forms of Racial Discrimination, among others.

"Suddenly they saw me as morally suspect and a threat to the community because I was a foreigner. [...] In addition, the regulations were implying that people with HIV were also morally suspect and a threat to the community." Andrea Vandom Vandom will continue to fight her case until Korea's Constitutional Court rules on the constitutionality of foreign instructors' mandatory submission of proof of HIV status. If the Court decides that the policy is unconstitutional, Korea will have to do away with its HIV-related travel restrictions.

Lisa's Story Lisa is a 40-year-old from New Zealand who lived in Ulsan for one year, teaching at an elementary school, where she was beloved by her students, co-teachers, and principals. Lisa had no objections to compulsory drug testing or criminal background checks for all teachers. Her objection was to the fact that the tests in question, HIV and TBPE, were for foreign teachers on E-2 visas only. "I believe that you must provide a solid reason backed


Feature

up by irrefutable proof that tests, such as HIV/AIDS, that infringe upon one's right to privacy and dignity are absolutely necessary to protect society and that you must show a direct correlation between what you're testing for, HIV/AIDS in this case, and the function of teaching," Lisa writes. "I think the Ulsan Education Office and Korean Immigration Service have failed miserably in this." Lisa's decision not to take the tests was difficult given the responsibility she felt towards her students. Emotionally, the day she signed off on refusing to submit to the tests, which meant the Education Office would not renew her contract, was both saddening and frightening. "Later that day, some of the grade 5 and 6 students asked me if they had done something to upset me," Lisa comments. "I told them no and they asked if there was anything they could do to make me feel better. That was the only time when I felt I'd made the wrong choice in not taking the tests." The response from Lisa's co-workers and bosses was wholly supportive, once they understood her reasons. One co-worker told her, "I hope you fight and win." When Lisa arrived to Korea in August 2008, she took the HIV and drug tests, though she was shocked by the lack of privacy and professionalism during the testing process. She reported that the waiting room was packed with foreigners holding lidless urine samples. She also never saw the doctors who processed the samples and carried out the blood tests wear gloves or wash their hands, even between patients. Lisa's reservations peaked when she returned to the hospital with her Korean co-teacher to collect her results. The hospital personnel handed the results to the co-teacher, unsealed, and had a brief discussion about the results before Lisa took the paper from them. Lisa presumes the Education Office also received a copy of her results. "I found the whole process humiliating and was relieved to think I wouldn't have to do it again, even if I decided to stay for longer than a year," she writes. Lisa was offered a second contract and agreed to it. At the time, she was not aware of the repeat-testing policy. Soon after the Ulsan Education Office informed her that retesting was part of the re-contracting process. Lisa wanted to know why she needed to take the tests again if she had already been through the immigration process. She also wanted to know if her Korean co-

workers were subject to the same policies. When asked, the Education Office was not forthcoming with answers, and one representative sent her a message saying, "I think foreigners are caught in drug and ADIS (sic) are not qualified well as teacher." At that point Lisa contacted Kyung Hee University Law Professor Ben Wagner, who informed her that Korean teachers did not have to take HIV/AIDS and drug tests. Wagner also told Lisa about the international treaties that Korea had signed and how by violating those treaties Korea was violating its own Constitution through mandatory testing. Following the release of Wagner's report to the National Human Rights Commission of Korea, Lisa filed her own complaint at the Commission. She also put in a request with the Korean Commercial Arbitration Board for mediation, a case that has recently been accepted for arbitration.

On Discrimination and the Future "My objection was to the fact that I was treated differently simply because I was foreign," Lisa states. "To me, it's not 'just a test'. It's perpetuating this absurd idea that foreigners are a danger to Korean society. When does this type of mass hysteria about the nature of foreigners stop and common sense prevail?" "Stigmatizing those with AIDS and pushing it off as a 'foreigner's disease' does nothing to stop its spread," Lisa adds. "It simply pushes the issue underground and discourages people from taking responsibility for their sexual health by getting tested regularly." Vandom echoes Lisa's thoughts, supporting confidential counseling, education, and treatment in the case of an HIV-positive result. "Making threats and ruining the credibility, careers, and lives of HIV carriers will only discourage testing and allow undiagnosed people living with HIV to continue spreading it," Vandom writes. "This seems to be the approach the Korean Ministry of Justice has taken." Both Andrea and Lisa remain confident that the Constitutional Court will rule in favor of eliminating the current testing policies. It could take up to two years for the final decision on HIV-related travel restrictions to be made. If and when that happens, perhaps qualified teachers like Andrea and Lisa will consider returning to Korea to offer their much-valued skills. By Michael Solis

Gwangju News January 2010

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PHOTO CONTEST

A snow-covered Seoseok-dae on Mudeung mountain following the year’s first snow in early December.

Photo by Park Mihye

Chili peppers piled high in plastic bags at Gwangju’s Yang-dong Market

Photo by Jessica Solomatenko

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Gwangju News January 2010


An egret searches in vain for food on the shores of an icy lake.

Photo by Justin Barrass

Welcoming the morning on Mudeung mountain.

Photo by David Little

Gwangju News January 2010

25


Travel

Traveling to Beijing

T

ravel advisory: when traveling to Beijing, China, pack a mask. The yellow dust that usually makes it to Gwangju during spring is evident in Beijing in December too. Tip two: have a guide lined up beforehand if it is your first time, as the city sprawls out to a new Sixth Ring Road, meaning 18+ kilometers from the center in most directions. Tip three: in the middle of your visit take a nature trip to the Great Wall of China out in Badaling. The steep walk up from the bottom is a nice break from the relatively flat Beijing, or you can grab a cable car up to the Wall, which at this point is on top of ridges, and feels measurably closer to the clouds, providing amazing vistas in all directions. We land with great anticipation, wowed by the airport architecture. We are tagging along with a fellow Korean artist who knows the ropes around Beijing. The 18-kilometer trip down Airport Highway to the Fourth Ring Road and then around six exits from there takes nearly two hours, but we end up in Hua Wei, the antiques district. The first stunning impression is fancy US-style Upper East Side apartment buildings with uniformed guards, and the 40-80 story buildings in every direction. A booming financial district, dots of multi-piped factories, 5-star hotels and restaurants, the shopping of Wangfuji and mad dash of cars, busses,

motorcycles, electric bikes, bicycles and pedestrians has overshadowed the time when small houses and self-propelled transportation was the distinct majority. On top of three Koreans who knew the antique business, we were chauffeured by Mr. Lee, the Chairman of the Board of Maroako Ltd., which publishes the Korean language Sunday Times in Beijing. “There are about two million Korean-Chinese (meaning second generation or longer) and 800,000 Korea newcomers in China, with 120,000 living in Beijing,” Lee says as we pull up to 15 buildings that house almost 60,000 Koreans. Three of us head into the antique market as soon as we drop our bags off at a friend’s apartment. Hua Wei sports an outdoor antique dealer flea market that, on Sundays, has nearly or over 1000 dealers with a wide variety of “old stuff” ranging from salvaged pottery and old coins to carved jade, lacquer boxes, ancient furniture, brass, books and knick knacks galore. The question is, “what to buy, and for how much?” With experts in tow, my wife proved a good bargain-maker, offering 20 Yuan for a brass and glass pipe the dealer asks 200 Yuan for. She walked away with it for 30 Yuan, after about 15 minutes of funny bargaining, that concluded when she walked away

Left: An altar inside the Forbidden City Right: Bells at Beijing’s Summer Palace

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Gwangju News January 2010


Travel

refusing to pay 50 Yuan ($3.25 or 3,500 won), and the man finally said “give me money.” The rest of the day brass pipe owners followed us whenever we came back around, so we ended up with a nice collection of six pipes for about $20.00 or 23,000 won. Later, at a bargain tower called Silk Road near Wangfujin (the major touristy/high rolling shopping center) my wife also snagged a nice Chinese-style winter coat for 120 Yuan (opening price 300). The first night we ate at Ok Ru Gwan, a restaurant that is an exact copy of a high level eatery in Pyong Yang, placed near the Korean strongholds. The food was delicious augmented by a very strong plum brandy. The place was huge with 16 tables for ten and 50 tables for six in a large hall with a stage full of instruments waiting us. Our cute and funny server Young Mi kept blushing and demurely brushing back the verbal thrusts from our younger male “antique-o-philes,” but when she disappeared then reappeared on stage in a yellow Hanbok thus adding best singer to best server credentials, our table was smitten. She had a music degree and had to audition for the part, and train for two years in Pyong Yang before moving to Beijing. She pointed to her Kim Il-sung pin and teared-up when saying the pin, which is reserved for North Korean patriots is “equal to my heart.” After a day of seeing a lot of great old Chinese stuff, it is the pin I covet most. On the way back to Hua Wei, the trip’s defining moment strikes when we see 40 couples dancing the waltz, then, on the last right turn to home, another 40 singles practicing in the Bus Stop and Hustle to 70s disco music. The native proved adept at utilizing wide sidewalk spaces, as Tai Chi started up the next morning. The city did not seem crowded when in the middle of this human connectedness. After feverish battles for cheap jade, we then proceed to the studio of famed calligrapher Chang Xu Kuang. Chang invited us to delight in two of the best of his large collection of teas. Then it is onto fluid strokes of calligraphy brushes, as he, wife Yi Zhuang and Gu Ji Hoy all amaze the rest of us with quick unique styling of ancient poems recalled from memory as gifts representing the intended receiver’s philosophy. Art catalogues and poetry is passed around. His assistant Zhai Xi served many rounds of tea before we headed out for round two of super-nice dining in Beijing. Kuang invited us all to a meal of about 16 courses, this time augmented by two fancy bottles of whisky. On day three we started with an early dash to Badaling

Top-left: Inside the Summer Palace Top-right:The Hall of Make-up and Costumes, Forbidden City Bottom: The vast expanse of Tiananmen Square

to hike the Great Wall, back to the Summer Palace for a long stroll in an amazing layout next to a large in-city lake that would have taken days to digest in the summer, but we squeezed into a four-hour stay. We got to the Forbidden City ticket gate at 3:40 p.m., ten minutes too late, but with time left to hit the aforementioned Silk Road for bargain shopping. Perhaps it was the amount of time I simply stopped, stunned in Tiananmen Square that held us up, but it was worth the pause. Since I’d rather get to know how the people of today are reacting to the world in their cultures, rather than spend too much time trying to unlock the past, the runs into antique and shopping land are like heaven for me. I experiment with immediate impromptu English lessons, and they try to help me pronounce “wei in sha” (a toast equal to “cheers”).

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Travel

sure. This one was so popular there was an entire room full of people playing ‘go-stop’ and otherwise waiting for a table in a room nearly the same size as the upstairs dining section. On the last day we had a few hours before liftoff and, not surprisingly, stopped off for more antique shopping and a Korean lunch before being fed again by Asiana Airlines. I never thought you could make a decent anthropology study by doing the “dining and shopping” section of the tourists’ manual, but we found those parts of Beijing the quickest introduction to the way people are in China today. We were spoiled by the hearty jokes that occurred after transactions, warm attention to our needs, and genuine, or at least expertly strategic inquisitiveness about our visit. Round trip is usually under 400,000 won, but don’t forget your visas! We paid 20,000 won per night for our room, breakfast included! Words and photos by Doug Stuber The main dining room of the Cave Cafe, Sector 798

Day three ends with dinner at Chef Bang’s Braised Sea Cucumbers, also suspiciously close to Wangfujin, and which served what must be nearly the best duck in town, in a variety of dishes, all delicious. Day four opens with the Forbidden City, and then a Chinese theatre set artist who was a friend of a friend showed us around Section 798, which is an old Russian machine factory converted into about 120 galleries. What an art scene! Though no longer selling at preOlympic levels, the galleries remain a strong draw for tourists and locals. We lunched at the Cave Café as they readied for a large Christmas Party being thrown by a group of German art lovers. That night he helped reunite Kwang Suk with Enji Cui, who she had met between semesters as a MFA student traveling to Beijing from Kyung Hee University back in 1986. Enji Cui was sitting at a table, in effect reserving it for us, at Hai Di Li Huo Guo a 24-hour restaurant that is as fun as a Chinese version of fondue. You boil very thinly sliced bits of beef or pork, and build as many wild sauces as you can from a huge sauce and salad bar. You keep ordering rounds of raw meat and beer, and then get amazed again as the noodle maker pulls out a hunk of dough and does a major break dance while spinning the noodles larger and thinner, until, just right, he breaks them apart, ready to be boiled. Fun stuff for

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Tree sculpture in Sector 798


Feature

A Very Brief History of the Tea Plant Part 2 Continued from last month’ s article...

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he Dutch and the Portuguese were the first Europeans to arrive in China during the mid 1600s, and they brought tea back with them to Europe and to the New World. During the early days of European trade and conquest in Asia, tea was an important factor throughout. To satisfy the foreign demand, the Chinese developed a special type of dark tea that could withstand the long voyage to Europe. This durable tea was black tea, and when it arrived in Europe, people became addicted. The Dutch also brought tea in 1670 to New Amsterdam and the English to their Massachusetts colony. This set off an insatiable desire for more and more tea, and more and more trade. All the major European nations were vying for the lucrative tea trade from China. In the end, England succeeded in securing a monopoly in the Chinese market. The British East India company, operating just outside of Canton (present day Guangzhou), dictated the supply and price of nearly all the tea that left China. This not only angered other European nations but also Britain’s own colonies. In 1773, during the infamous Boston Tea Party, dozens of American revolutionaries dumped hundreds of pounds of tea from the decks of newly arrived British trade ships. This was one of many signs of protest against England’s colonial power and it set off a series of events that led to America’s Declaration of Independence. War, however, did not end the English tea monopoly, which lasted until 1834, well after the American Revolution. Without full control and with competition from other Europeans powers, England looked elsewhere for a strategic advantage. They found their leverage in India with the production and sale of opium. Against the demands of the Chinese emperor, England continued to trade large quantities of opium into China in exchange for tea. This led to the Opium Wars from 1839 to 1842. Embarrassed, China gave into England’s trade demands, and furthermore gave England a permanent lease on a small island at the end of the Pearl River called Hong Kong. Even with a stronger hold on trade, England still lacked control over production. For some time it had been known that tea grew wild in India, but the English

The final stage in today’s tea’s evolution: the tea bag Wikipedia

viewed this as an inferior species and were reluctant to cultivate it. Eventually, in the 1848, a Scottish businessman clandestinely entered Fujian province and returned to India with tea plants, seeds, and 80 Chinese tea experts. With this newly found tea knowledge, tea was successfully cultivated in Darjeeling in northern India from Chinese trees. Additionally, at around the same time, the native tea plants in India were found to be a different strain of the same plant and, after years of unsuccessful production and cultivation, tea was finally produced in the Assam region. From here the rest is history, with the newly cultivated Assam bushes and the production techniques developed by the British, tea gardens spread throughout Assam, southern India, and into Ceylon (Sri Lanka) in 1875. England, Europe and the world now had almost unlimited access to all the black tea they needed. All that was left was the invention of the tea bag in favor of the cumbersome teaspoon, and the replacement of afternoon tea with tea anytime. Writer’s Note: The writing of this article is relevant for a couple of reasons. #1. Many readers of the Gwangju News live in Jeollanam-do, which produces much of the tea in South Korea. #2. One of Korea’s most important advocates of tea and the Korean tea ceremony, the venerable Cho Eui, was born in Muan. He spent much his life at various temples around Jeollanam-do and wrote arguably the most important Korean book about tea. Fortunately this book, entitled “Dongdasong,” was published in English for the first time this past summer. Enjoy and drink tea.

By Warren Parsons

Gwangju News January 2010

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Perspective

Su-neung and University Admissions in Korea A look at the Korean SAT (su-neung) and University admissions systems in Korea.

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urbulent times for 12th graders in high school

Everyone who lives in Korea, especially teachers and others in the field of education, is interested in learning about the Korean education system. We are here to explore how Korean students enter university. Last November, a test was held which is called suneung (aka KSAT, or Korean SAT). Su-neung is a test that every Korean knows about and virtually all high school students have taken since 1993. Su-neung is the standard university entrance exam and is still the most common way to enter university in the southern half of the Korean peninsula. It is offered once a year in November and as many as 600,000 senior high school students take it every year.

CNU Admission Plan

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Gwangju News January 2010

Su-neung and the second round Recently, on December 8, students received their suneung test results. Based on their test score, each student then had to decide on up to 3 universities they wanted to apply for, by the due date of December 23. Keep in mind the rule that students can apply to one university from each category, from type 가 (Ga), type 나 (Na), and type 다 (Da). These types are decided by university authorities on when they want to interview students. Interviews take place in January, so students are busy with university interviews at that time. Some students are much busier even in December preparing for interviews and composition tests. In February most students know which university they will attend in the following semester, but a few students will still be waiting for their results to come (other unlucky students start to study again to re-take the exam– the same time again next year.)


Perspective

A student deep in thought during the SAT

Newsis

Rolling Admission As for Chonnam National University (CNU), about 18% of people enter university based only on their su-neung score, and their other tests scores during their three years at high school are not counted. 28% of people enter university based on a combination of their high school scores and their su-neung score. 46% of people enter university mainly depending on school activities and their academic rank. In this case su-neung works as a qualifying factor. This way of entering university is called su-si, nonscheduled admission or rolling admission. Fortunately the day I visited Chonnam National University was the day final interviews were scheduled. Students are given admission numbers and wait in a room for the interview. Before they entered the interview room, all students have to hand in their cell phones, to prevent them from sharing the questions they are asked during the interview. Unlike other interviews, it lasts for more than 20 minutes per applicant. One student, named Gook Hyun-sil, allowed me to talk with her. She said she is from North Jeolla province and strongly wanted to enter this department. The person in charge of the interview graciously granted my request to take some snap shots during the interview. For the duration of the interview, the interviewers tried to relax the students, for they want to attract the best students. Once the interview is done, interviewees have to remain in the room until the second group of students arrives, to prevent students from the first revealing the questions they were asked. From 18th of December to 23rd of December, Chonnam University is open to application from both Ga and Na groups. For Ga-group applicants, as mentioned before, considers only their su-neung score.

A candidate undergoing admission interview at CNU

However, the way they calculate the score varies depending on their programs. Sometimes they do not include two science subjects or Korean. For the Na group, they reflect both scores from high school (three years’ scores) and su-neung. However, there are several holes in this system due to score weighting. No matter how hard students may try, high school scores have basic scores. Even though 400 is the score set aside for the high school score, 250 is given for free to everybody. It is sure that three years of effort is rewarded for 150 score. On the other hand, su-neung score is transformed into 400. One wrongly solved mathematic question is worth two points. Su-neung, the only chance for the students who waited for three years to be evaluated in this way, is so critically important. There are also a couple of other ways to enter university. These are Admissions Officer and Special Admission (e.g. sports abilities). An Admissions Officer is responsible for recruiting undergraduate students and reviewing applications for admission. Korea has used this method since 2007 and it is applied at almost every school. This method, at some schools, requires students to stay with the interviewer for up to three days. Finally, the special admission method is used to favor student athletes. The way to enter university is difficult not only for students but also for teachers. It is too complicated. Above all, the su-neung score is considered the most important factor. More than 75% of students are influenced by su-neung scores. No one knows if suneung is practical or not. However it remains to be seen how the su-neung test will take shape amid the changes in the days to come. By Ko Nam-il and Park Min-ji

Gwangju News January 2010

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Photo Essay

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Gwangju News January 2010


Profile

Unjusa

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f you’re after a pleasant afternoon somewhere a little bit out of the way one place you might consider visiting is Unjusa. This temple is most well known for the many stone carvings to be found there, both pagodas and Buddha statues. The temple is located in Hwasun county in Jeollanamdo, and can be accessed by bus from Gwangju. The temple itself is set in a valley and the walk from the parking area to the temple is short. The most noteworthy pagoda is to be found close to the entrance and this is the 9-storied Unjusa Gucheung seoktap, which has been designated as National Treasure 796. If you walk from Unjusa Gucheung seoktap to the temple you pass two other prominent pagodas and several other carvings in the area that is like a rock sculpture garden, a garden that must surely be beautiful with some winter snow. The temple area has a central courtyard area and some steps up to one of the main temple buildings. After taking some time to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of the temple the next place worth seeing is the site of the stone statue of the lying Buddha, which can be found at the top of a small hill next to the temple. Unjusa temple at one time in the past had over 1000 pagodas and Buddha statues but today there are considerably less with just 21 pagodas and 91 Buddha statues. The origin of the statues has two explanations, the more romantic one being the story of the monk Doseon. The story goes that due to an imbalance in the Korean peninsula with more mountains on one side than the other stone masons were called down from heaven to rectify the imbalance. The more plausible explanation is that this temple was the site of a stone mason’s school. Unjusa would make a great trip for anyone who wants to enjoy the last autumn leaves, or indeed a beautiful location to see a Korean winter wonderland after some snow. To get to Unjusa catch either the 218 or the 318 bus from the bus stop in front of Gwangju bus terminal. The journey will take 90 minutes and then you’ll need to walk 10 minutes to the temple. The last return bus leaves at 7:50 p.m. Words and photos by Simon Bond

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Information

accountable, and some of the changes that are being imposed on Korea from international banks to westernize the Korean system, with serious economic implications.

Foreigners must proceed with caution when seeking a lawyer in Korea English is not the language of the Court in a South Korean court room. Testimony can be given in English but the sentence is made in Korean. And there has never been a successful prosecution for malpractice against a lawyer in South Korea by a non-Korean. Considering these facts mean foreigners must use extra caution when choosing a lawyer. Lawyers have to consider how going to trial or settling out of court works for them. Conflicts of interest could arise, so it is necessary that you and your lawyer are on the same page and that you can hold your lawyer accountable if he or she deviates from any agreements made with you.

Legal issues How the Law Works for NonKoreans in South Korea

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hen coming to a foreign country it is easy to get excited about the experience and forget that you are entering a society with a different set of laws, philosophy and economic system from the west. Those coming to Korea to work, live, and absorb the society should understand that things are fundamentally different here in these aspects and all expats would benefit from a basic understanding of this if they wish to stay out of trouble and learn the reasons why, for example, social services like healthcare are much cheaper. After talking with Jason Lee, CEO and lawyer of Lee and Partners, in Siheung-dong, Seoul, I was able to learn much about these differences. Lee is an established lawyer in Korea, having worked as a legal advisor for Sonex Electrical Inc. of South Korea and other corporations. He is experienced in economics and commercial law, human rights issues, and can speak four languages. He clarified for me the differences in Western and Eastern legal philosophies, and explained how expats in Korea can keep their lawyers

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Gwangju News January 2010

Imagine the scenarios if there is not a binding agreement between a foreigner and a Korean lawyer. You and your lawyer have to agree on specifically who you are prosecuting, what the charges are, the reparations you seek, whether to go to trial or make a settlement, and the legal strategy of your case. Unless you know Korean, you are not going to know anything that is said in the courtroom. This is why you need a letter of legal opinion. A letter of legal opinion is the only real way to hold your lawyer accountable for any promises made and to clarify specifically what you want to achieve before actions are taken. This is their signed statement to you stating their legal strategy, who you are suing, what risks are involved and all other specific details. The Korean Bar Association can censure or suspend a lawyer’s license if they deviate from a signed letter of legal opinion. If your lawyer refuses to provide a letter of legal opinion, you really have no reason to trust him or her. There are other things to consider. Only a Korean Attorney has Attorney powers inside Korea. Therefore it is generally not efficient to hire a foreign lawyer because they are not Attorneys here, and can’t do anything for you but give advice. Also many Korean Attorneys speak English very well. Attorneys here require higher retainer fees (initial payment) and collect lower contingency fees (percentage of money awarded if you win). The retainer fee is generally for the first 20 hours of labor, so you may be asked for more money.


Information

Korean lawyers value a perfect record, so they may ask you to settle out of court if they aren’t certain you will win. If you have to pay your lawyer in increments, be sure to pay on time or don’t expect an honest effort. Also have documents translated before taking them to a lawyer to save you money and time.

Western and Eastern law are two different philosophies There is a very different philosophy that makes the foundation of the Korean legal system compared to western law. Since Japan occupied Korea from 1910 to 1945, Korea’s legal system is largely modeled after Japan’s system. This is influenced by Confucianism, derived from the Chinese philosopher Confucius who lived around 500 BC. Serious cases are about damages to society (not the individual), and there are little or no punitive damages awarded. That means if you are injured and need medical care, you get the money for the initial expenses but no extra money as punishment to the defendant. This keeps insurance costs down, which makes for lower costs for public services like health care. Areas where the Roman Empire once ruled today have their legal systems shaped by Roman law. In Roman law, it is about damages to the individual, and any apparent lack of morality by the defendant is considered for punitive damages. The idea is there will be more accountability because those found guilty will be punished beyond just repairing their damages to society. However, this raises insurance costs and therefore the costs for public services. Another difference is the Koreans, until recently, never used the jury system. One argument against juries is that regular civilians may not understand the law well enough to make a good judgment. Western law almost always uses the jury system because it is believed that it keeps the state from having too much power over its people. Learning about the differences in legal systems can be very telling about Korean society. Specifically, the

difference seems to be about thinking of ourselves as an individual (in the West) and part of a society (in the East). The trends of legal systems can be very telling about a society’s history, cultural values and philosophy.

International pressure on South Korea for westernization There is a lot of pressure on South Korea to westernize its legal system and laws, especially from international banks. The Korean and IMF (International Monetary Fund) economic crisis of 1997 is an example. Korean companies and the government borrowed lots of money from the IMF to that point, with strings attached. When those loans defaulted, concessions were made that have likely lowered Korea’s standard of living. One of these was the adoption of a more western legal system including experimenting with a jury system. Another was more working rights for women. These seem like good intentions but one could argue the results will be higher prices for services and more work hours per family. The Korean people also turned in much of their gold and silver to help pay the debt, leaving them without a hedge against the won: a fiat currency. Another reason the legal system here is being westernized is to make a fair playing field for foreign competition. If foreign companies are held accountable for punitive damages and Korean companies are not, foreign companies are discouraged to compete in Korean markets. The outcome of this struggle between Korea’s way and these pressures for change from abroad could be very telling about a larger, worldwide struggle. In the world of globalization, it is important to be sure the global world is a better world and not a lower standard of living from what we have in the individual nation states. By Michael Bielawski

Only a Korean Attorney has Attorney powers inside Korea. So it is generally not efficient to hire a foreign lawyer because they are not Attorneys here, and can’t do anything for you but give advice.

Gwangju News January 2010

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Restaurant Review

Gwangju’s Best Burger

The Lemon Table icture this; you’ve been in Gwangju for months, and you’re craving something Western for dinner. You’ve eaten at countless restaurants trying to find something to satisfy your taste buds. You’ve gone to T.G.I. Fridays, only find their 15,000 won cheeseburger bland and boring. The Burger King isn’t cutting it either, whether it’s their prices or it’s tacky interior. If you’re out in Sangmu, you’ve got Kraze Burger, if you want to spend 10,000 won for an average burger with no fries.

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If so, let me introduce you to Lemon Table. Lemon Table is a hidden gem tucked away in the heart of downtown Gwangju. Don’t let the interior fool you; this isn’t your typical Korean coffee shop. Lemon Table is arguably home to the best burgers in town. Mismatched tables and chairs and tacky chandeliers make Lemon Table feel like you’re in your grandmother’s dining room. There are quirky paintings along with absolutely horrible furniture that may induce you in to a Willy Wonka-esque coma. But for those of you who can handle the cheesy music and décor, you will be rewarded with some good food. Really good food. Lemon Table has quite the menu, featuring burgers, pastas, burger steaks and pizzas. The burgers come highly recommended, especially the “Onion Ring Mountain.” The burgers are hand-made and fresh, not frozen, and the bun is tasty as well. The highlight of the Mountain burger is the stack of onion rings. The onion rings are so good that

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they could be served as a side order. It’s a shame they don’t offer it on the menu. There is a downside to the burger joy though, which is something called sauce. Lemon Table goes way too heavy on their sauce and I suggest that you order it on the side. Every burger on the menu comes with sauce, so remember, get it on the side. All burgers come with fries, although you don’t get too many, they are nice and big crinkle-cuts. The damage for this tasty meal will only set you back 7,000 won. That is the same price as a Whopper Set at Burger King. The service at Lemon Table is great and the staff speaks limited English as well. If you are craving something other than ramen noodles or Korean BBQ, I suggest you head down to the Lemon Table. The “Onion Ring Mountain” and “Original” are both excellent burgers. Lemon Table also has serves overpriced coffees, teas, as well as beer and Dr. Pepper, but let’s face it, you’re really only going there for one thing. You can find Lemon Table downtown, tucked behind the “corner” park at the intersection of Geumnamno and the Migliore street. There is also another location in Sangmu. For more restaurant reviews all around Gwangju, check out www.eatdrinkgwangju.com. Words and photos by Jimmy Denfield


KoreaMaria: Food Critic

Hoa Binh Vietnamese Pho Good

Pho 6,500-9,000 won Rice 7,000-9,000 won Dimsum & Fried Rolls 2-3,500 won (sampler sets 3-8,500 won) Bus: 45, 50 get off Sangmu Hospital bus stop Taxi: Next to Columbus Cinema Building 상무지구 콜럼버스영화관 앞

Located in the local eating, drinking, partying mecca of Sangmu-jigu, Hoa Binh – Vietnamese Pho Restaurant – is a franchise that delivers noodles as consistent as your experience of French fries from McDonald’s. Located on the second floor of a busy building housing Japanese restaurants, sandwich shops, coffee shops and a movie theater, it is a clean, bright and ordinary restaurant with some outdoor seating. Servers are personable even if the food is a little slow in preparation. Tables are set with a glass pitcher of hot tea and hip little cups of glass and steel with bamboo saucers along with a bouquet of Chinese soup spoons, round plastic chopsticks, a Vietnamese figurine, as well as fish and chili sauce. Pho – noodles. Noodles with meat. Noodles with seafood. Cold noodles. Fried noodles. The meat pho includes choices of tenderloin, brisket, chicken or shabu meat. Seafood selections include mixed seafood of varying degrees of hotness, clam, oyster and a tom yam selection as well. Fried rice is also available. Pineapple is the house specialty, but many a table displayed orders of the chili fried rice which is also a favorite. Dimsum and fried rolls are also great buys and delicious. Rabbit-shaped rolls are a dimsum choice. The crab fried rolls are fresh and delicious. Mini and regular sets are available (3-8,500 won). After the closing of the Vietnamese restaurant in downtown and the pho noodle shop in Chondae, it is a great relief that you can still pho in Sangmu. This place is always busy, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait for a table. I recommend grabbing a group when you go so you can sample several dishes. A traditional pho soup, a fried noodle and a fried rice with the addition of one of their dimsum or fried rolls sets. I don’t recommend the Vietnam coffee; after a wait of 20 minutes you are served a watered-down coffee with condensed milk on the side. Maybe this sounds good to you. If so, then I recommend one of the instant black coffees from a vending machine and pick up condensed milk in a squeeze bottle from the baking aisle at E-Mart. Cost savings 2,900 won per cup.

By Maria Lisak at Gwangju University Gwangju News January 2010

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Cartoon

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Gwangju News January 2010


Cartoon

Gwangju News January 2010

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Upcoming Events

Festivals The 18th Daegwallyeong Snow Festival

Contact: 031) 535-7242 www.doridol.com/festival/winter/main/ main.html Boseong Tea Plantation Light Festival

Performances Queen Sundeok Jan 5th-31st, 8pm(weekdays) 3pm, 7pm (Sat.) 2pm, 6pm (Sun.) Gymnasium No. 3, Olympic Park Olympic Park Station, Line 5, Exit 3 Admission fee: Weekdays 60,000 won - 120,000 won Weekend 50,000 won - 130,000 won www.musicalsundeok.com Green Day

Jan. 16th-24th In the vicinity of Hoenggye-Rotary, Daegwallyeong-myeon, Pyeongchang-gun, Gangwon-do Buses: Take an express bus from USquare to Dong Seoul Bus Terminal (4hrs). There, you can transfer for a bus heading for Gangneung (2 hrs) Contact: 033) 336-6112 www.snowfestival.net

Until Jan 31st, 2010 Botjae Dawon Tea Plantation and Dahyanggak Pavilion, Boseong-gun, Jeollanam-do Admission free www.boseong.go.kr/ko/culture/event/li ght_festival The 28th Yongpyong International Ski Festival

Hoenggye is also home to one of Korea’s largest wind-farms. The 6th Pocheon Backwoon Valley Dongjangkun Festival

Jan. 18th, 8 p.m. Admission fee: R(Seat/Standing): 99,000 won, S: 88,000 won Gymnasium No. 1, Olympic Park Olympic Park Station, Line 5, Exit 3 Seoul Jan. 1st-31st Pocheon Backwoon Valley National Sightseeing Complex Banquet of Ice flowers and Lights On the first day of 2010, there will be Ice and Lights Festival in Pocheon, which will last for a month. This festival is the 6th and there are lots of things to see. There, you can make arts with ice and slide over the snow in a sleigh. Come and enjoy your winter here with Dongjangkun Festival. This region is really famous for its high-quality rice wine, Makgeolli Buses: Take an express bus from USquare to Dong Seoul Bus Terminal (4hrs). There, you can transfer for a bus heading for Ildong-myeon (1hr 10mins).

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Feb 5th-7th Yongpyong Resort, Gangwon-do www.yongpyong,co.kr/eng The 23nd Polar Bear Swim Jan. 31st Haeundae Beach, Busan www.bear.busan.com

The Killers Feb. 6th, 7pm Admission fee: R(Seat/Standing): 99,000 won, S: 77,000 won Gymnasium No. 1, Olympic Park Olympic Park Station, Line 5, Exit 3 Seoul Gwangju Kumho Art Hall 2010 New year’s Music Concert Jan 13th at 7:30 p.m Gwangju Kumho Art Hall Admission: 20,000 Won (8,000 Won for Teenagers) Children under the age of 8 are not permitted to attend. Contact: 062-360-8432 Musici New years Concert Jan 22th, 2010 at 8 p.m.


Upcoming Events Seoul Arts Center (Concert Hall) Subway: Seocho Station Line 2 Exit 3; Nambu Terminal Station Line 3 Exits 4, 5 Admission: 40,000 - 120,000 won Contact: 02-732-3090 Children under the age of 8 are not permitted to attend. 09~10 Lee Mun-se Concert “Bulgeunnoeul” Jan 29 - 30t at 7 p.m/8 p.m Gwangju Culture & Art Center (Grand Theatre) Admission: 66,000~99,000 Won, Children under the age of 8 are not permitted to attend. Tuesday Art Stage “Music Performance with Opera Buffa” Feb 9th, 2010 at Evening Gwangju Culture & Art Center (Small Theatre) Admission: 5,000~20,000 won

Subway: Jamsil Station Line 2, 8 Exit 3 Admission: 60,000 - 110,000 won Contact: 02-501-7888 The Wedding Singer (Musical) Until Jan 31st, from 3 p.m. (No performance on Mondays) Seoul Chung-mu Art Hall (Grand Theatre) Subway: Sindang Station Lines 2, 6 Exit 9; Dongdaemun Woondongjang Station Lines 2, 4, 5 Exit 2 Admission: 40,000 ~ 100,000 won Starring: Hwang Jeong Min, Park Gun Hyeong, etc. Contact: 02-501-7888

Speakeasy Events Speakeasy Fourth Birthday Party

reputation - check out their myspace page for a sneak preview As well as the music there'll be other promos and events going on, so clear your schedules and come on down to wish us a happy birthday, Sat 16th.

Art Exhibitions Heo Kyeong-ae Young Artists Exhibition Jan. 13-30th, 2010 from 10:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Gwangju Kumho Art Hall (Gallery 3) Admission: Free Contact: 062-360-8436

Saturday January 16th The Mustache of Mona Lisa

2010 Jazz and the City Jan 14-15th/ 28-29th, at 7:30 p.m. Seoul Mokdong KT Chamber Hall Subway: Omokgyo Station Line 5 Exit 2; Mokdong Station Line 5 Exit 4 Admission: 1,000 won Children under the age of 8 are not permitted to attend. Soprano Shin Young-ok 2010 Grand Tour Concert

Jan 29th, 2010 at 8 p.m. Seoul Arts Center (Concert Hall) Subway: Seocho Station Line 2 Exit 3; Nambu Terminal Station Line 3 Exits 4, 5 Admission: 77,000 ~ 150,000 Won Contact: 02-580-1234 Children under the age of 8 are not permitted to attend. The Phantom of the Opera (Musical) Until Jan 31st, 2010 from 2 p.m. (No performance on Mondays) Seoul Charlotte Theatre

Until Feb. 21st, 2010 Gwangju Museum of Art No exhibition on Monday

Happy Birthday to us! This January marks the 4th year since Speakeasy opened, and to celebrate, we're lining up a great selection of live music and going all out to make it a night you won't want to miss. Music is a double-header live bill, featuing

The Stream of Namdo Art Until Jan 31st, 2010 Gwangju Museum of Art 2009 Bologna Illustrators of Children's Books

- Feed the Boats: Gwangju's premier expat band coming back to Speakeasy for their second performance. Last time out they went down a storm, and this time promise to be even bigger. - U R Seoul: One of Seoul's most popular bands will be coming down to Gwangju to play Speakeasy for the first time. These guys have a great

- March 1st Admission fee: adults 10,000 won, youths 7,000 won Hangaram Design Museum, Seoul

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Movies Arts Center Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 4 & 5, Walk 5-10 minutes or take shuttle bus (bus no. 12 or 4429)

Movies

Seoul International Photography Festival 2009

The Road

Until Jan. 31st, from 11:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Seoul Garden 5 (Spring Plaza) Subway: Jangji Station Line 8 Admission: 8,000 won

Andy Warhol, the Greatest - Apr. 4th, 2010 from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Seoul National Museum of Art Subway: City Hall Station Line 1 Exit 1, City Hall Station Line 2 Exits 11, 12 Admission: 12,000 won Contact: 02-2124-8800 No exhibition on Monday Children under the age of 8 are not allowed to enter. Leonardo Da Vinci Korea Exhibition - Mar. 1st, 2010, from 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Gwacheon National Science Museum Subway: Daegongwon Station Line 4 Exit 5 Admission: 11,000 won Contact: 02-3418-5060 No exhibition on Mondays 2010 Year of the Tiger Special Exhibition - March 1st National Folk Museum of Korea Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1 or Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Walk along Samcheong-dong Street. The museum is located on the left. Green bus no. 11 is available. 02-3704-3114

Vocabulary Exercise’s Answer (from page 19) 답: 주말, 주문, 박물관, 호박, 병원, 장미, 화장실, 감자, 공원, 문장, 장식 and many more things are possible according to your Korean level!

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Gwangju News January 2010

Release Date: 07 Jan 2010 Genre: Drama Language: English Synopsis After the Oscar-winning success of the adaptation of the Cormac McCarthy novel ‘No Country for Old Men’, another of the author's works arrives on screen. Viggo Mortensen stars in ‘The Road’, a thriller that is set in a bare, post-apocalyptic America, where a father and son struggle to survive. Director John Hillcoat previously teamed with star Guy Pearce on the critically acclaimed Western ‘The Proposition’. Cast & Crew Director: John Hillcoat Screenwriter: Joe Penhall Producer: Nick Wechsler, Steve Schwartz, Paula Mae Schwartz Starring: Viggo Mortensen, Kodi McPhee, Charlize Theron, Guy Pearce, Robert Duvall

Paranormal Activity Release Date: 14 Jan 2010 Genre: Horror/Suspense Language: English Synopsis A haunted house makes no secret of the fact it is not pleased with its new tenants in this independent tale of supernatural horror. Katie (Katie Featherson) and Micah (Micah Sloat) are a twenty-something couple who've just moved into a new home in San Diego, California. Katie has an interest in the paranormal and believes that malevolent spirits have been following her since childhood, though Micah is not so easily convinced. However, after several nights of loud noises and strange happenings, Micah starts to agree with Katie that some sort of ghost may have followed them to the new home. After a paranormal researcher tells the couple he can't help them, Micah decides to take control of the situation and sets up a battery of video cameras so that if a spirit manifests itself, he can capture its behavior on tape. Once the surveillance cameras are in place, Katie and Micah bring in a Ouija board in an effort to talk to the spirits, a move that deeply offends the ghosts. ‘Paranormal Activity’ is the first feature film from writer-director Oren Peli. Cast & Crew Director: Oren Peli Screenwriter: Oren Peli Starring: Katie Featherston, Micah Sloat, Mark Fredrichs, Amber Armstrong, Ashley Palmer


GIC Talk

GIC Talk

Bobby Release Date: 18 Jan 2010 Genre: Drama, Comedy Language: English Synopsis Tuesday, June 4, 1968: the California presidential primary. As day breaks Robert F. Kennedy arrives at the Ambassador Hotel; he'll campaign, then speak to supporters at midnight. To capture the texture of the late 1960s, we see vignettes at the hotel: a couple marries so he can avoid Vietnam, kitchen staff discuss race and baseball, a man cheats on his wife, another is fired for racism, a retired hotel doorman plays chess in the lobby with an old friend, a campaign strategist's wife needs a pair of black shoes, two campaign staff trip on LSD, a lounge singer is on the downhill slide. Through it all, we see and hear RFK calling for a better society and a better nation. Cast & Crew Director: Emilio Extevez Screenwriter: Emilio Extevez Producer: Nick Wechsler, Steve Schwartz, Paula Mae Schwartz Starring: Harry Belafonte, Joy Bryant, Nick Cannon

Time: Every Saturday, 14:30-16:00 Place: GIC office (5th floor of Jeon-il Bldg) January 2 No GIC Talk January 9 Topic: Globalization and Cultural Convergence Speaker: Michael Begin, Ph.D. (ESL Professor, Chosun University) As sure as globalization has presented us with new and emergent social, economic and political realities, it has also presented us with new cultural trends and norms that define and are defined by postmodernity. If we can understand ourselves at once as global and globalized subjects, should we resist or embrace these powerful cultural forces?

January 16 Topic: Beating loneliness in Gwangyang Speaker: Brian Thomas (Elementary School Teacher)

The Princess and the Frog Release Date: 21 Jan 2010 Genre: Children Language: English Synopsis Walt Disney Animation Studios presents the musical ‘The Princess and the Frog’, an animated comedy set in the great city of New Orleans. From the creators of ‘The Little Mermaid’ and ‘Aladdin’ comes a modern twist on a classic tale, featuring a beautiful girl named Tiana (Anika Noni Rose), a frog prince who desperately wants to be human again, and a fateful kiss that leads them both on a hilarious adventure through the mystical bayous of Louisiana. ‘The Princess and the Frog’ marks the return to hand-drawn animation from the revered team of John Musker and Ron Clements, with music by Oscarwinning composer Randy Newman. © Walt Disney Cast & Crew Director: John Musker, Ron Clements Producer: Peter Del Vecho Starring: Anika Noni Rose, John Goodman, Keith David, Jim Cummings, Jenifer Lewis Compiled by Ahn Hong-pyo, Park Su-ji, Park Min-ji, Ko Nam-il, Noh In-woo

January 23 TBA January 30 Topic: An Introduction to Travels in Peru Speaker: Jonathan Brenner (ESL Instructor, Chonnam National University) Peru, a country shrouded in mystery, is located on the other side of the world and contains a diverse amount of cultural heritage. This presentation will introduce different civilizations, sites, and a short history of Peru. All talks take place at the GIC office. For more information, visit www.gic.or.kr or contact Kim Singsing at: gwangjuic@gmail.com Check out pictures from previous GIC Talks http://picasaweb.google.com/gictalk

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Community Board

Gwangju News Needs You Due to the rapid expansion of our community, we need more volunteers to help with the running of the magazine. Help the community and gain new skills.

happen. Drop ins are welcome. membership required.

GIC

Volunteers are called 48 hours before the mail-out day (during the first week of each month). GIC needs 6-8 people who can help. GIC and Gwangju News are only as good as the volunteers who bring it to life! Contact GIC at 062-226-2733/4, or e-mail us at: gwangjuic@gmail.com.

Creativity Workshop & Support Group Creativity workshop/support group: Move through the 12 weeks of The Artist’s Way by Julia Cameron. 4th Saturday of the month 5-7pm @ GIC. January 23 will cover chapters 1-4. Please get a copy of The Artist’s Way and work on the morning pages, artist dates and tasks weekly. A group website is available at http://gicartistway.ning.com/ to connect prior to the first event. Using the book, The Artist's Way, by Julia Cameron, participants are able to kindle and support their personal creative projects. Maria Lisak, a frustrated artist herself, offers to facilitate this support group for community members to write, create artistic projects or just live life as your “art”. This is a 3-month commitment. Offered quarterly. Advanced enrollment requested @ GIC or http://gicartistway.ning.com/. GIC membership required.

Are you looking for a translation service? Translation Service is available at GIC. Korean to English, English to Korean - Certificates; Criminal History, Family relation certificate, Marital Statement, Medical Record, etc - Webpages & catalogues - abstracts, literature, etc

Sung Bin Orphanage Sung Bin Orphanage is looking for long-term volunteers. We would like you to give at least two Saturdays per month. As well as being a friend, you will be asked to teach basic English to girls aged 7 to 14. For more information please contact Mike at: sungbinvolunteers@gmail.com.

Contact GIC for more information 062-226-2733/4

Gwangju Men’s Soccer The Gwangju international soccer team plays regularly most weekends. If you are interested in playing, e-mail: gwangju_soccer@yahoo.com.

You can help in a variety of roles: - proofreading - photography - writing - layout - administration - website or any other way YOU can think of. Contact: gwangjunews@gmail.com Help Gwangju News Magazine! Volunteer one day a month GIC needs volunteers to mail out Gwangju News. Gwangju News, published monthly, is sent to nearly 700 addresses. Join our Gwangju News mailout volunteers at GIC.

Ideas into Action Grant Workshop: Turning an idea into a project proposal for GIC or Gwangju. 3rd Saturday of the month 5-7pm @ GIC This is an opportunity for you to put your idea into action at GIC or for the Gwangju community. Attendees will have an opportunity to design, develop and implement ideas for our community with the assistance of Maria Lisak, a longtime GIC volunteer. Each month provides mentoring and coaching to attendees. No regular instruction is planned. This workshop is for people who are tired of “just talking” about their idea and want to see it 44

Gwangju News January 2010

Free Health Clinic for Foreigners Venue: Gwangju Joongang Presbyterian Church. Time: Sundays from 1:30 p.m. to 3 p.m. Offers: Internal medicine, Oriental medicine and Dental service. You could take some medicine after treatment. How to get to there: Buses - 19, 26, 39, 59, 61, 74 (around Hwajeong crossroads) Subway - Exit 2 Hwajeong Station.

Apostolate to Migrants Center 969-10 Wolgok-dong, Gwangsan-gu Phone: 062-954-8004 Buses: 18, 20, 29, 37, 40, 98, 196, 700, 720 get off at Wolgok market bus stop. Mass: Sundays 3 p.m. at Wolgok-dong Catholic Church GIC Counseling Team Do you need some help or question about living in Gwangju? Contact GIC Counseling Volunteers at giccounseling@gmail.com We will try to provide best information and services for you. The Gwangju Book Club Meets every Wednesday evening at 7:30 p.m. in front of the downtown YMCA before moving nearby for a discussion over coffee. Welcoming new members! Look up 'Gwangju Book Club' on Facebook for more details, or email cherrycoke52@hotmail.com for more information. The Gwangju Women's FC Meets every Sunday afternoon at 1 p.m. in Pungam-dong Welcoming new members! Check out 'Gwangu Women's FC' on Facebook for more details, or email cherrycoke52@hotmail.com for more information. Gwangju Artist Collective We are a group of artists and art lovers. We meet up about twice a month at the GIC for workshops, discussions and community art events. Join us for our upcoming January workshops 'Art and Play' on Jan. 16th facilitated by Sarah Epp and a drawing workshop on Jan. 23rd facilitated by Tamara Rose. For more info e-mail gic-artistcollective@googlegroups.com or look for us on Facebook. Gwangju Parents Association Want to share ideas on ways to raise children and talk about alternative educational options in Korea. The web forum is open to people of all nationalities. Please join our Facebook group: gwangju parents


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Advertise in Gwangju News Target Your Customers! Does your business cater to the foreign community? Advertising in Gwangju News is the best way to reach your target market. 3,000 copies are printed and distributed every month. News about your services will spread like wildfire! For advertising information contact Kim Minsu at (062) 226-2734 or e-mail: gwangjunews@gmail.com

Worship at Dongmyung English Service Sunday 11:30 am, Education Bld.

Pastor : Dan Hornbostel (010-5188-8940)

Bus: 15, 27, 28, 55, 74, 80, 1000, 1187 get off at Nongjang Dari or at Court Office Entrance

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