Gwangju and South Jeolla International Magazine I October 2017 Issue #188 I Gwangju Design Biennale 2017
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Healing Happiness Health
A variety of things worth watching and enjoying! Do you need to heal your body and mind, while escaping from the daily routine? Please try to feel at home in Gwangju City and Jeollanam-do’s abundant clean air! Korea’s Top 25 Wellness Tour Attractions
Templestay
Cypress Hyosogung
Cypress Forest Woodland
Suncheon Bay
MEDIWELL GWANGJU 6 Reasons Why You Should Choose Mediwell Gwangju:
Tel: +82-62-714-1730 Web: http://mediwellgj.kr mediwellgwangju
October 2017
Photo Source: KTO: 온석원, Jeungsimsa Temple
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
1. The largest number of medical personnel by percentage of population. 2. World-class medical technology and state-of the art medical facilities and equipment. 3. Highly qualified resident professionals by treatment. 4. Inspection by dedicated specialist and prompt treatment result. 5. Pursuing customized inspection program. 6. Reasonable Expense compared to Seoul and other cities.
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Letter from the Editor
October 2017, Issue No. 188 Published: October 1, 2017 Cover Photo: Lorryn Smit Cover Art & Design: Karina Prananto
THE EDITORIAL TEAM Publisher Editor-in-Chief Managing Editors Online Editorial Team Layout Editor Photo Editor Creative Advisor Copy Editors Proofreaders Researchers
Dr. Shin Gyonggu Dr. David E. Shaffer Eden Jones, Anastasia Traynin Nathan Fulkerson, Karina Prananto, Nguyen (Sen) Huong Karina Prananto Lorryn Smit Joe Wabe Brian Fitzroy, Alvina Joanna, Eden Jones, Joseph Nunez, Gabrielle Nygaard, Lauren Reyes, Kristyna Zaharek Eden Jones, David Shaffer, Anastasia Traynin, Kristyna Zaharek Jung Yu-jin, Kim Mi-yeon, Kwak Ji-young Lee Hyo-jeong, Nguyen (Sen) Huong
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October 2017
Gwangju News is the first public English monthly magazine in Korea, first published in 2001. Each monthly issue covers local and regional issues, with a focus on the roles and activities of the international residents and local English-speaking communities. Copyright by Gwangju International Center. All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by this copyright may be reproduced in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise – without the written consent of the publisher.
Gwangju News is published by Gwangju International Center Jungang-ro 196-beon-gil 5 (Geumnam-ro 3-ga), Dong-gu, Gwangju 61475, South Korea Tel: (+82)-62-226-2733~34 Fax: (+82)-62-226-2731 Website: www.gwangjunewsgic.com E-mail: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr
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t’s that time of the year again: Chuseok. Rather than just in high gear, we at the Gwangju News have been working in overdrive to get the October issue out to you for Chuseok holiday enjoyment. We feature Chuseok for you from not a purely Korean or Western view, but from a blended Korean-international perspective that we hope you will appreciate. In the Chuseok vein, we also bring you articles on rice-cake sayings, making makgeolli, and how the rabbit got up in the moon! Running through the entirety of the expanded Chuseok holidays this year and extending into late October is the 2017 Gwangju Design Biennale. Read our features on the Biennale to find out what uniqueness this year’s event has in store for you. For more on art, we tell you what Áine Byrne is creating. Don’t know what to do with your free time? Check out our articles on rock climbing and roller skating, and I think you might have less free time on your hands. Good at music, or just like listening to it? Learn about the open mics around town. Looking for a new and different place to eat, read about the Hawaiian Bowl. And that’s not all we have for you this issue. We introduce you to some of the most useful apps for expat life here in Korea. We bring you information on a great festival in Jinju and travel in Myanmar. We bring you a short story, a photo essay, a book review, and a movie review. On top of all this, there are opinion pieces on the North Korean situation, and the dangers of traveling. We at the Gwangju News wish all of you a very happy and fulfilling Chuseok holiday. 즐겁고 풍성한 추석명절을 보내시기를 바랍니다.
David E. Shaffer Editor-in-Chief Gwangju News
Registration No. 광주광역시 라. 00145 (ISSN 2093-5315) Registration Date: February 22, 2010 Printed by Join Adcom 조인애드컴 (+82)-62-367-7702 For volunteering and article submission inquiries, please contact the Editor at: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr For advertising and subscription inquiries, contact karina@gic.or.kr Special thanks to the City of Gwangju and all of our sponsors.
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Contents
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October 2017 #188
10 Gwangju Design Biennale 18
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GWANGJU NEWS 04. Upcoming Events: October 07. Gwangju Theater Schedule 08. Gwangju City News 56. Community Board
COMMUNITY 18. In Town: Lea Moreau 20. Community Leader: Áine Byrne 22. Gwangju Live: Open Mics Around Town 52. Expat Living: Apps in Your Hands
TRAVEL 33. Around Korea: Jinju’s Favorite Festival 36. From Abroad: Myanmar ARTS & CULTURE 39. Photo Essay: Jeju in August 42. Photo of the Month 44. Korean Folktale: The Moon Rabbit (Daltokki, 달토끼) 45. Movie Review: Looking Back at a Classic Thriller: Night of the Hunter 46. Gwangju Writes: Grandma Ava 47. Book Review: The Orphan Master’s Son EDUCATION 46. KOTESOL: Korea’s Early English Education Policy for the New Millennium 48. Talk to Me in Korean: Pharmacy OPINION 53. Extreme but Real Dangers to Consider While Traveling 54. North Korea Crying Wolf: Is It for Real This Time?
October 2017
SPORTS & ACTIVITIES 24. Sports: Climb On! 26. Lost in Gwangju: Get Your (Roller) Skates on to Sangmu!
FOOD & DRINKS 28. Where to Eat: Hawaiian Bowl 30. Kitchen Stories: Makgeolli 32. Stories Behind Korean Rice Cakes (Tteok)
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
FEATURE 10. Gwangju Design Biennale and the 4th Industrial Revolution 11. Ten Years After: Design Biennale Fair Curator Song Seong-hee Embraces the “New Normal” 14. Chuseok
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Upcoming Events Compiled by Nguyen (Sen) Huong
October
Exhibitions Architectural Modernism in Sri Lanka 한스리랑카 수교 40주년 기념 국제교류전시 <스리랑카 근대 건축 : 제프리 바와 – 발렌타인 구나세카라>
GWANGJU NEWS
Geoffrey Bawa and Valentine Gunasekara, modern architecture artists, bring the island’s postcolonial architectural traditions to life through diverse creativity, ranging from virtual reality (VR) and audio-visuals to sketches, drawings, and models. Date: Location: Admission: Telephone: Website:
August 30 – October 29 Asia Culture Center, 38 Munhwajeondangro, Dong-gu, Gwangju Free 1899-5566 https://www.acc.go.kr/board/schedule/ exhibition/1636
2017 Gwangju Design Biennale
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
October 2017
광주 디자인비엔날레 With the aim of expanding our views on the aesthetics, practicality, and the economic value of design along with exploring the fresh interpretation of futuristic designs, Gwangju Design Biennale is the first of its kind in the world and has been organized every other year since 2005. The design festival, consisting of multiple exhibitions, will appear in three locations: the Gwangju Museum of Art, the Asia Culture Center, and the Gwangju Biennale Exhibition Hall. Date: Address:
September 8 – October 23 Gwangju Biennale Exhibition Hall: 111 Biennale-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju Gwangju Museum of Art: 52 Haseo-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju Asia Culture Center: 38 Munhwajeondangro, Dong-gu, Gwangju Admission: Adults: 12,000 won on site, 2,000 won discount on reserved tickets Youth: 6,000 won on site, 1,000 won discount on reserved tickets Children: 4,000 won on site, 1,000 won discount on reserved tickets Telephone: 062-611-5171 / 5141 Website: www.gdb.or.kr
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Festivals
Naganeupseong Folk Culture Festival
Sunchang Gochujang Festival
낙안읍성 민속문화제 2017
순창 장류축제
Experience traditional life and its festival in Naganeupseong. People living there still carry out traditional life, and, during the festival, you are invited to see traditional performances, play traditional games, and make traditional handicrafts.
The city of health and longevity, Sunchang, celebrates gochujang (hot pepper paste) for its immense health benefits – the key to Sunchang’s well-being every fall. Percussion performances, traditional hot pepper pastemaking, Sunchang specialty exhibition, a gochujang competition, and many other programs promise to make one’s visit worthwhile.
Date: Location: Admission: Telephone: Website:
October 18–22 Naganeupseong, Chungmin-gil 30, Nagan-myeon, Suncheon, Jeollanam-do Adults 4,000 won, Youth 2,500 won, Children 1,500 won 061-749-8836 www.suncheon.go.kr/nagan
Date: Location: Admission: Telephone: Website:
October 20–22 6-3, Minsokmaeul-gil, Sunchang-gun, Jeollabuk-do Free 063-650-1611 http://www.jangfestival.co.kr
7080 Chungjang Recollection Festival
Date: Location:
October 2017
Admission: Telephone: Website:
October 18–22 Geumnam-ro and Chungjang-ro area, Dong-gu, Gwangju (starts at Geumnam Park to ACC Democracy Plaza) Free 062-608-2421~4 http://www.donggu.kr/index. es?sid=c8
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추억의 7080 충장축제 One of Gwangju’s most representative festivals, with the nostalgic 1970s and 1980s theme, is approaching. The range of major events includes a street parade, a nostalgia dancing stage, nostalgia moonlight camping, a nostalgia fashion show, and and many more delights which are to be discovered.
6 벼룩시장 Flea Market
장기자랑 Talent Show
Since 2000
(former Body&Soul Clinic) 세계음식체험전 Global Food Booth
The International Clinic in Gwangju
세계문화체험전 Global Culture Booth
글로벌커뮤니티 Global Community
Gwangju I nternational Community Day 2017 광주외국인의 날 2017. 10.29. 일 11~17시 아시아문화전당 5.18민주광장 Sunday, Oct 29 11a.m.~5p.m. ACC Democracy Plaza
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October 2017
주최 Host
주관 Organizer
후원 Sponsor
협력 Cooperation
The international communities in Gwangju come together in this much-anticipated event! Taste different food dishes from various countries and experience their culture first-hand, while watching performances. Bring your friends and family! Date: Address: Admission: Telephone: Website:
October 29, 11 am – 5 pm Asia Culture Center, May 18 Democracy Plaza Free 062-226-2732 www.gic.or.kr
Family Medicine, Health Screening, Men’s Health, Women’s Health, Minor Surgery, Travel Medicine, Vaccination, Complementary Medicine, Pre-employment Health Screening, Laboratory Test (Blood, Urine, Pap, STD), X-ray & Ultrasound, Prescription Refill, Nutrition (Intravenous Vitamins & Minerals), Detox (Chelation & Fasting), Anti Aging, Immune Booster, Weight Management.
For More Info: Phone: 062-525-0606 www.geomedclinic.com ** The best landmark for our clinic is “Buk-gu District Office” ** On the 1st Floor of our building, there is a “Paris Baguette”. Our clinic is located on the 5th Floor.
Hampyeong Chrysanthemum Festival 함평국향대전 Feel the sweet fragarance of chrysanthemums amidst the serene autumn in Hampyeong. Experience traditional folk games and food, while checking out the exhibition of the agricultural products competition. Date: Location: Admission: Telephone: Website:
October 20 – November 5 Hampyeong Expo Park Adults 7,000 won, youth 5,000 won, children 3,000 won 061-322-0011 http://www.hampyeong.go.kr/
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Gwangju THEATER 62 Chungjang-no 5-ga, Dong-gu, Gwangju (two blocks behind NC WAVE) TICKETS: 8,000 won INFORMATION: 062-224-5858 For more information, please visit: http://cafe.naver.com/cinemagwangju * Synopses excerpted from Wikipedia, IMDb and Hancinema
KEDI 고양이 케디
Genre: Documentary Director: Ceyda Torun Film Length: 79 minutes Starring: Bülent Üstün
20TH CENTURY WOMEN 우리의 20세기 Genre: Drama Director: Mike Mills Film Length: 119 minutes Starring: Annette Bening, Elle Fanning, Greta Gerwig
Summary: Eighteen girls passionate about dancesport
BROTHERHOOD, A LIFE WITH SAINT FRANCIS 성 프란치스코 Genre: Drama Directors: Renaud Fély, Arnaud Louvet Film Length: 87 minutes Starring: Jérémie Renier, Elio Germano, Yannick Renier Summary: This story takes place between 1209 and 1226, and follows the life of Elias of Cortona, one of the most loyal companions of Saint Francis of Assisi. He is attempting to shield the monks’ community-driven utopia from the threat of rejection weighing heavily against it.
On October 31, 7:30 p.m., there will be a special jazz performance, Concert de Jazz: Trio français de Thierry Maillard, from France at the Gwangju Theater.
October 2017
DANCESPORT GIRLS 땐뽀걸즈 Genre: Documentary Director: Lee Seung-moon Film Length: 89 minutes Starring: Lee Gyoo-ho, Kim Hyeon-bin, Bae Eun-jeong
Summary: This movie tells the life of late actor Heath Ledger, as told by his friends and family. The documentary provides an intimate look at Heath Ledger through the lens of his own camera as he films and often performs in his own personal journey.
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Summary: This story is about love, life, and the struggles of a mother bringing up a son in Southern California in the late 1970’s. Living in a bohemian household shared with three like-minded, spirited people who help pay the rent, a teenage boy’s mother tries to establish bonds that the boy cannot deal with. In spite of their perceived struggles, will the story’s characters all go on to live defined lives without any serious consequences?
I AM HEATH LEDGER 아이 엠 히스 레저 Genre: Documentary Directors: Adrian Buitenhuis, Derik Murray Film Length: 91 minutes Starring: Heath Ledger, Ang Lee, Ashleigh Bell
GWANGJU NEWS
Summary: This movie documents the many stray cats that live in Istanbul. Some felines are wild and fend for themselves, while others are tamer and are cared for by people. Kedi depicts these cats and includes many interviews of the people who interact with them. It focuses on seven of the cats, who are named Sari, Duman, Bengü, Aslan Parçasi, Gamsiz, Psikopat, and Deniz.
chase their dreams in a town where most people their age are preparing for employment at the recently restructured shipyard. Can the dancesport dreams of these 18 girls come true?
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News
GWANGJU NEWS
Compiled by Jung Yu-jin and Karina Prananto Photographs courtesy of Gwangju City
Gwangju and Nepal Expect to Expand Cooperation and Enterprise Exchanges
October 2017
CNI expressed its strong commitment to expand exchanges and cooperation with Gwangju-based companies. During their August visit to Gwangju, the delegation, consisting of President Hari Bhaka Sharma of CNI and three Nepali businessmen, toured major industrial facilities, including pharmaceutical companies, where they discussed plans for future economic exchanges and cooperation. This third visit from CNI to Gwangju comes after Vice President Krishna Prasad Adhikari and his delegation were invited to Gwangju by Mayor Yoon in April of this year.
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The Confederation of Nepalese Industries (CNI) delegation visited Gwangju on August 24â&#x20AC;&#x201C;25. The meeting with Mayor Yoon Jang-hyun discussed plans for exchanges and cooperation between companies in Gwangju and Nepal.
Nepal and Gwangju have steadily continued mutual exchanges since Mayor Yoon visited Nepal in February for the opening ceremony of the Gwangju Clinic in Nepal and met with CNI. At the time, Mayor Yoon discussed various possibilities for exchanges in the economic and other sectors. In the present visit, Nepali businessmen expressed their intention of strengthening future cooperation with Gwangju. In particular, they said that Nepali companies in major industries want to use Gwangju as a base in order to establish further economic cooperation within Korea.
As Mayor Yoon discussed possibilities for exchanges and cooperation during the meeting with the CNI delegation, he also stated his gratitude towards CNI for having established relations and continuing exchanges since the opening of the Gwangju Clinic in Nepal in February. He also considered this to be an opportunity to seek an agenda for future cooperation as well as mutual prosperity and development beyond personal, cultural, and medical exchanges, not simply with guests but now as friends. President Hari expressed his gratitude for a warm welcome and the hospitality provided, which helped the delegation feel at home. He added that Nepal, with its huge potential, geographically located between China and India, as well as its political stability, will hopefully further various types of exchanges and investments with companies in Gwangju. Following the meeting with Mayor Yoon, the CNI delegation has actively become involved in various fields, including the pharmaceutical industry, tourism, and agriculture, taking tours around Gwangju-based pharmaceutical manufacturing plants and having a meeting with the Gwangju Chamber of Commerce and Industry (CCI). On the second day of the visit, the delegation visited the Environment-Friendly Agriculture Research Center and the Nano-Biotechnology Research Center at Chonnam National University.
9 Public Wifi to Expand On September 30, the government announced a plan to provide more free wireless Internet access zones across the country. According to the Ministry of Science and ICT, a panel consisting of some 25 officials from the government, academia, and the telecom industry will discuss ways to build more free WiFi zones, giving citizens better access to the Internet from their portable devices. The ministry said it plans to provide free WiFi in various public locations, such as bus terminals, hospitals, and post offices. A Four-member Family Estimated to Spend 215,000 Won for This Year’s Chuseok A four-member family is likely to spend 215,270 won to prepare for the Chuseok holidays this year. The Korea Price Research Center on September 12 said this year’s expected spending has dropped by 0.4 percent compared to last year’s spending of 216,050 won. Mayor Yoon Jang-hyun Meets with Nepali Ambassador to Korea
Mayor Yoon said that Gwangju citizens consider Nepal as their friends and that many Nepali brothers currently working here in Gwangju are said to be doing well but that he is hoping to provide them with more support. The Mayor added that now Gwangju City Hall will be seeking ways to further strengthen mutual economic development ties between Gwangju and Nepal.
Son of “Taxi Driver” Says His Father is Happy in Heaven According to Gwangju City Hall, Kim Seung Pil visited Gwangju on September 7. Kim is the son of the late Kim Sa-bok, the real-life taxi driver portrayed in the movie Taxi Driver. After visiting Jürgen Hinzpeter’s retrospective, held on the first floor of Gwangju City Hall, Kim Seungpil was quoted as saying, “My father must now be happy in Heaven.” Kim Sabok was the taxi driver who drove for the German journalist known as the “Blue-Eyed Witness,” making two round trips between Seoul and Gwangju during the May 18th Democratic Uprising.
October 2017
Ambassador Singh was grateful to Mayor Yoon for offering a helping hand of support and hospitality to Nepal. He also said that he would act immediately if Mayor Yoon calls to offer further plans for mutual cooperation.
According to the research, eighteen products including eggs have seen price jumps while ten items such as beef have seen their prices dropped.
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On the morning of August 28, Mayor Yoon Jang-hyun met Nepali Ambassador to Korea Arjun Junj Bahadur Singh and his entourage to discuss areas of mutual interest, including plans for future exchanges and cooperation between Gwangju City and Nepal. As a token of appreciation, Mayor Yoon presented the Ambassador with a photo album of Gwangju’s activities in Nepal, including dispatching an emergency relief team that served after the 2015 Nepal earthquake; activities of the Gwangju Clinic in Nepal; and also the Nepali businessmen’s visit.
The center conducted the research on 29 products at eight major traditional markets in six metropolitan cities including Seoul, Incheon, Busan, Daegu, Gwangju, and Daejeon.
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
October 2017
FEATURE
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â&#x2013;² Song Seong-hee
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October 2017
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Gwangju Design Biennale and the 4th Industrial Revolution Written by Matt Furlane
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October 2017
hroughout history, there have already been three industrial revolutions: The 1st industrial revolution took place during the 18th and 19th centuries and involved the transition from a traditionally agrarian lifestyle to an urban living environment. It was marked by inventions like the steam engine and the development of the iron industries. This revolution would coincide with the “Art Deco” movement and later give rise to the genre of “steam punk.” The 2nd industrial revolution occurred in the late 1800s and into the early 1900s and was highlighted by the inventions of the telephone, light bulb, and gas engines. The 3rd revolution was the digital revolution (which is still ongoing). It began in the late 70s and early 80s, and was marked by the invention of the transistor and the widespread use of personal computers, the Internet and communications satellites. Now, in the year 2017, many experts are saying that we are entering into a bold, new smart era marked by rapid advances in not only concepts like biotech (Crispr), nanotech, and artificial intelligence (DeepMind), but quantum computing (D-Wave Systems), block chain technology (Bitcoin), and 3D printing. Many believe these technologies are going to define the 4th industrial revolution that has the potential to fundamentally change the world as we know it at a pace we can barely imagine. Highlighting this 4th revolution with many exhibits and educational displays is this year’s 2017 Gwangju Design Biennale, which runs up to Monday, October 23. Visitors will be able to view numerous exhibits on two floors that will introduce them to everything from brief histories of industrial development in Korea to new environmentally friendly technology and 3D printed mini cars. One of the displays I found particularly interesting and that would benefit Korea tremendously was the
mobile trash bin. It was bright orange and had three wheels at the bottom. It was designed to locate large crowds and make itself available for people to get rid of their smaller trash like pop cans or plastic bags. When full, it automatically dumps its trash, and then returns to whatever location necessary to make it easier for people to dispose of their waste, which helps keep urban spaces clean. Another display that was interesting was the air umbrella, which allowed its users to monitor air quality by mounting a flashlightsized air quality sampler at the top of the umbrella. Although the future is on display throughout the Design Biennale, the past is not forgotten. One of the main exhibits, “Futures of the Past,” helps to highlight the historical development of technology by guiding visitors along a path showing important books, pictures of things like the Sony Walkman or the release of dates of seminal movies like Back to the Future. It states, “The future is not the nametag of a hopeful time to come but another name for our agenda to tackle the current accumulation of problems and resolve them with all the powers of technology, culture, and human sciences.” Whatever your interests may be, the Design Biennale has worked to display the possibilities of the future, whether they be environmental, industrial, or digital. I would encourage multiple visits to help do justice to the amount of information that is presented about our shared futures. THE AUTHOR
Matt is an English teacher from the United States. He has a bachelor’s degree in political science and an associate’s degree in electronics engineering. He took up photography and journalism after he graduated and still relies heavily on a spell checker for words like “necessary” and “Mississippi.”
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Ten Years After
Gwangju Design Biennale Fair Curator Song Seong-hee Embraces the “New Normal” Written by Anastasia Traynin Song Seong-hee interview interpretation by Gwangju Design Biennale Photographed by Lorryn Smit
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Started in 2012 by Song Seong-hee and her husband, musician Jo Yun-seok, Ten Years After Lifestyle Research and Design Lab focuses on sustainability in an everchanging city landscape. The name, evoking past and future, takes its inspiration from two distinct sources.
“Why do we have Ten Years After?” Song asks. “There are necessary and very useful things that other people aren’t doing. So we can’t help but do them.” Their first project brought the cool roof design to Korea, painting roofs a bright white color to save energy in the summer. Another ongoing campaign is Wearable Hangeul, promoting the use of Hangeul expressions on Korean T-shirts, to counterbalance the prominence of misunderstood English words often seen on clothing in Korea. The expressions are translated into eight different languages, for Koreans to use while traveling and interacting with people of different nationalities. A recent partnership with the global CycleHack movement for bike-friendly cities has made CycleHack Seoul, a workshop for solving issues for cyclists in the big city. Since Ten Years After’s mission matches well with this year’s Design Biennale theme, the director invited Song as curator in late March. Other artists created their various exhibits from March through May before bringing them to Gallery Five. As the first Biennale gallery with an extensive sales catalogue, the Design Fair is an exhibit that Song believes can hold an especially strong connection for visitors. “This is the strongest communication between the artists and the visitors. The artists make the products with their own messages that they want to share with people, so if visitors can buy the products, they bring these messages
October 2017
From this backdrop, visitors take in a dizzying collection of creative products based on four subthemes: “Air and Breathing,” “Plant Sensation Technology,” “New Attitude to Connect with Garbage,” and “A New Life: To Live Again.” From purses and bags recycled from thrown away materials to non-refrigerated food storage, printed pluviography, and many others, all product purchases go directly to the artists, who hail from the Gwangju Design Center, Seoul, and various countries around the world.
The first is the English blues-rock band Ten Years After, popular from the late 1960s and early 1970s. The second is the well-known Korean proverb “십년이면 강산도 변한다: Over ten years, even the rivers and mountains change,” meaning that a place can easily become unrecognizable over a short period of time.
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The present seems to be a scary place, with wars and natural disasters devastating places and people far from and close to the Korean Peninsula. Environmental destruction and ongoing climate change don’t seem to be letting up anytime soon. In this vein, the 2017 Gwangju Design Biennale, “Futures,” tackles the concepts “new normal” and the newly coined “4th Industrial Revolution,” looking at a wide array of designs that adapt to the changing reality of human life. This year, it has unveiled a new Design Fair on the first floor in Gallery Five, “Ten Years After, New Normal,” in which visitors can choose to purchase design products at the sales counter from works on display. We sat down to speak with the exhibit’s curator, Song Seong-hee, director of the Seoul-based Ten Years After Lifestyle Research and Design Lab. allery Five’s most prominent feature is the big, bold, red Korean words across the back wall, signaling inevitable change, which read “We are sorry, but whether we change or not, the climate will change all of us.”
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October 2017
14 home with them.” While many of the clothes, stationaries, books, and wooden designs are attractive to the eye, Song explains that it is their practical use, rather than their look, that she hopes to impart to the younger generation. Furthermore, she has worked hard with her team to shape the new, multi-faceted exhibit into a fresh concept. “This space was a storage room, so I feel proud that our team worked hard to clean and set it up well. Also, we wanted to make a trashless exhibit so, for example, for the text, we used removable paint instead of paper. Finally, seats and other used products are all reusable. I am proud of that.” The era of the “new normal” is a time and place where the affects of rapid industrialization can be viewed as unsustainable. From the perspective of designers, this signals an opportunity to make real, concrete, and long-term changes. “Even though people like new things, the new and unknown is inevitably a scary thing,” Song says. “When we have common sense, we can easily live with it, but if common sense changes, that can become chaotic. Climate change that was once strange is becoming a normal thing so we don’t use the words ‘strange climate’ anymore. The situation has quickly changed, so humans have to adapt. I think it can be a very good opportunity to make a change because it’s no longer a problem of choice but a question of survival.” Ten Years After’s projects are expanding beyond small-scale innovations to longer-term changes, especially in the field of energy use, that have the potential to engage people from around Korea. “Our research lab’s purpose is to
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“I want people to accept change in an enjoyable way and not run away from it, because we are the ones who made the change. In recent times, we have all thrown away a lot of plastic that goes out of sight, but it is somewhere on Earth. I think this problem of change is not a Korean problem or some specific country’s problem. This is an ‘earthling’ problem, and we have to resolve it together.” The Design Biennale “Futures” continues through October 23, 2017. All of the products at the Design Fair in Gallery Five can be purchased directly on site through the printed catalogue. For more information on Ten Years After Lifestyle Research and Design Lab, visit 십년후연구소 on Facebook.
October 2017
THE AUTHOR Anastasia (Ana) Traynin is the comanaging editor of Gwangju News. She has been a contributor to the magazine since fall 2013 and has been living in Gwangju since spring of that year. After teaching for three years at Hanbitt High School, she became a GIC coordinator in May 2016. She has passions for Korean social movements, alternative education, live music, languages, and writing.
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work together with people. We have projects like making air cleaners and solar-powered generators that ordinary people cannot directly buy or make, but they can invest a small amount of money and receive benefits through participation.” Song explains that the solar energy project takes its name in Korean from “dol-dokki” (돌도끼), or “thunder ax,” a Joseon Dynasty nickname for the ancient stone ax that people of the time related to thunder and thought it came from the heavens. While technology and industry itself can cause problems related to environmental degradation, Ten Years After operates on the idea that design is essential to people’s lives and has the capacity to involve both experts and ordinary people in the population. “It’s not technology itself but how we use it. With a knife we can cut something or kill a person. I am against an anti-technology society. Social design is something that many people can participate in, even while we rely on engineers to make it.” Song sees Koreans, international residents, and visitors coming through Gallery Five and hopes that the same message can come across to everyone who stops to take a look.
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Chuseok Written by Jake Hollingsworth
unique year. Friday, October 6, being sandwiched between the holidays and the weekend, is a Chuseok “observance day.” In addition to the weekends on either side and Hangeul Day on October 9, the government of South Korea deemed it acceptable to declare Monday, October 2 as a temporary holiday, granting millions of grateful citizens and foreigners residing on the peninsula a rare 10day break stretching from Saturday, September 30 through Monday, October 9.
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
October 2017
COMMUNITY
I
n the first week of September, South Korean leader Moon Jae-In claimed the greatest victory of his young presidency by declaring 2017 the year of the Super Chuseok (추석). A cry of joyful disbelief filled the skies as the announcement rapidly filtered throughout the country. Ordinarily, the holiday lasts for a period of three days: the official Chuseok day (this year Wednesday, October 4) and the days immediately before and after (Tuesday, October 3 and Thursday, October 5). However, 2017 is a
▲ A charye table includes offerings to the family ancestors from the year’s harvest.
South Koreans celebrate two major holidays: Seollal (설날, the first day of the lunar calendar) and Chuseok. Chuseok signifies the harvest season, and it is observed when the full harvest moon appears in the sky in the middle of the 8th lunar month. Because of its timing and significance, Chuseok is often compared to Thanksgiving and Christmas in America. For thousands of foreigners living and working in South Korea, the holiday means little more than
17 paid vacation and time to travel; but for the millions of native Koreans, both at home and abroad, it is a more meaningful time of year. Traditionally, Koreans travel to the family patriarch’s home to gather with extended family, exchange gifts, and remember their relatives who have passed away. Brian and Myoung-Jin Klein, a young married couple in Korea, offer a unique perspective on the holiday. Brian is a native Texan who moved to South Korea as an English teacher. His wife is a native Korean who grew up just outside of Seoul in the community of Deokjeong. After a short stint in Texas, the Kleins decided to return to Korea, this time bringing along a new baby girl. For the holiday, they meet early in the morning at MyoungJin’s family home to perform traditional ceremonies out of respect for their ancestors. The rites resemble memorial services for deceased relatives. The typical ceremony, called charye (차례), includes offerings of rice, traditional alcohol, and songpyeon (송편, sweet rice cakes, filled with sesame seeds and sugar). After the ritual, family members sit down together to eat. (Another custom that some families observe includes visiting the graves of the departed ancestors to perform a memorial ritual, as well as cleaning the site of any weeds that have grown.)
THE AUTHOR Jake Hollingsworth is an American English teacher living in Naju.
October 2017
In a country with the Confucian tradition of patriarchal dominance, especially in the family, Myoung-Jin and Brian hold a more modern and evolving goal for their daughter when it comes to holidays and family gatherings – Chuseok most of all. They say it is a commonly held tradition that most families tend to let the women slave over all of the preparations while the men eat and drink. However, the Kleins say that with younger couples they know, it has been a marriage deal-breaker. The Kleins are happy that their daughter will grow up observing and
With an American upbringing, Brian notices an accurate comparison with Thanksgiving and Christmas. “In terms of seeing family and giving gifts,” he says, “I see the parallels with Thanksgiving and Christmas in America in a lot of ways.” However, he has also observed a refreshing difference. “The way people enjoy Chuseok is a bit different. Turkey day is about eating until you pass out for us, and Christmas is always about surprising the little ones with gifts from Santa and holiday cheer. Chuseok feels a bit more honest in a way. You simply enjoy time with the people and don’t have to hype it up with over-prepared food or expensive gifts. Gift-giving on Chuseok usually has more value. People tend to give things like food, expensive/rare ingredients, vitamins, or health supplements.” With the long holiday quickly approaching, Brian and Myoung-Jin, along with the rest of the country, are looking with anticipation to a week of rest, togetherness, and recharging.
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For Brian and Myoung-Jin, Chuseok is less about tradition and more about relaxing and catching up with family they don’t see regularly. Family members stop by periodically throughout the morning to socialize, trade gifts, and eat. The family dresses in formal clothing, but not traditional hanbok (한복). Brian said, “My first Chuseok was before I met my wife, so it was rather boring. I was new to the country and tried to tour Seoul when most of the shops and restaurants were closed. It was kind of a surreal time for foreigners here, like a mystery or thriller flick. We roamed the streets looking for signs of civilization the first day of Chuseok. After joining my wife’s family, I was excited. It was a great learning experience, in my opinion. Coming from a half-Asian background, it was interesting to draw some comparisons. I also enjoy eating, drinking, and playing games with the in-laws. For that moment, we can forget about the outside world and focus on ourselves.”
participating in the local culture, but they also want her to feel like an equal. “Fortunately, my father-in-law and I have been able to commit our time to helping with the preparation before and clean up afterward,” Brian said.
18 18 In Town
Lea Moreau
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
October 2017
COMMUNITY COMMUNITY
Written by Madeline Miller Photos courtesy of Lea Moreau and Madeline Miller
I
magine a bug that, after biting a human, causes a life-long disease with no cure. The only treatment available is so expensive that people sometimes take second and third jobs, even creating new industries just to subsidize the cost of this affliction. Signs and symptoms include inability to focus; daydreaming or hallucinations; extreme stress; inability to maintain or manage a consistent income; sudden inexplicable longings for unreal or past situations; missing work, family commitments, or other important dates; general dissatisfaction; and possible adverse alterations to personality. Now, imagine that you are eight years old and are bitten by this bug. Suddenly, your whole world changes. You had a whole life ahead of you, and now you have no choice but to focus all your youth and energy toward this disease. This serious condition, often referred to as the “travel bug,” got to Lea Moreau on a trip in Bali with her family, and her life has never been the same. She looks back on the trip
saying her recurring thought was “Oh, the world is so big!” Traveling by motorbike with local guides, Lea experienced food, language, and culture in a way that made her more aware of travel, particularly in Asia, at a young age. After the experience, Lea’s education certainly prepared her for a life of adventure. The two high schools she attended offered classes and extracurricular activities ranging from entrepreneurship to rock climbing, from scuba diving to aviation to humanitarian fundraising. She studied Japanese, and in doing so, was introduced to K-pop, and Korean food and culture. She soon found herself drawn more and more toward a life in Asia. As Lea fought her travel bug case, she found that the best way to deal with it was simply to travel. During her time in high school, she found herself frustrated by the inability to communicate with “interesting people [she] met all the time” and wanted to learn English to break
down the barrier. Through a work exchange program, HELPx, she was able to spend a working holiday in Australia. Because of her scuba diving experience in high school, she was drawn to Australia for the Great Barrier Reef and other diving opportunities. She spent time with friends exploring the Outback, particularly the national parks. After completing a year in Australia, Lea recalls a conversation with her mom. Lea says, “She wasn’t surprised I wanted to spend more time abroad; she just said she only promised me one year in Australia, so I went back to France to study.” Lea made a compromise with her mom: she took online classes to count toward her tourism degree while she lived in Thailand. She was also able to obtain an internship towards her tourism degree because the director of the language school where she studied spoke French. Lea recounts, “My mom felt like if I had any trouble, [the language school director] could help me out.”
19 After one year studying in Thailand, during her summer vacation, Lea took a trip with a friend to several Southeast Asian countries, titling the trip “Leo and Lea Lost in Asia,” and planning to bike the whole thing. Realizing that this was somewhat impractical, the friends decided to incorporate hitchhiking and busing into the trip in order to cut down on both time and exhaustion levels. The pair started by hitchhiking through Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia; then hit Singapore, walking through most of the small country; and despite the heat and humidity, braved doing the same in Bali. Next, they went to Lombok Island to see the Rinjani Volcano and to Gili Island for the scuba diving. Laos and Vietnam were covered in a 700 kilometer bike trip, followed by Cambodia done primarily by bus. Because most countries require a bachelor’s degree for immigration, and many companies require it for hiring, Lea returned to France to sit for her final exam for her associate’s degree, but found it hard to stay in one place. She transferred to Sup-de-Co La Rochelle as a junior, but found that they required an additional internship of her. There were many pointers for South Korea as the next step: flights from Chiang Mai to Incheon are cheap, and Lea had already visited three times during her stay in Thailand. During the third of these trips, she met a man who she calls a “random Interpol guy at a bar out there.” It was nearly a year later that she contacted him again. “It was so crazy,” Lea insists, “if I hadn’t met him, I would never have made it out here.”
Lea says her dream for the future is to be a travel specialist for Asian countries (whether in Korea or elsewhere). She says she’d like to work on videos or TV in order to inspire others to discover the country they are living in, whether they are natives or expats. In essence, Lea is working toward spreading the travel bug that bit her at age eight in hope that the whole world may become infected, too.
October 2017
During her time as an intern, Lea created “Leadventure,”
a YouTube channel she uses as a platform for vlogging and informational travel videos. She wanted to make something available online as she was creating the guidebook for the guesthouse and found that most foreigners are only familiar with the larger cities like Seoul and Busan. After Lea’s internship ended, she decided to stay on with the guesthouse, as Pedro, the owner of Voyagers’ and Pedro’s House, saw her work and encouraged her in it. Pedro and Lea worked together on an idea they call “Jeolla Go.” Lea’s new schedule now includes writing scripts for the video, filming and editing, and working with locals to find the best hidden gems in Jeolla, as well as learning the Korean language and how to operate the café.
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
Lea spent her first year in Korea as an intern at Pedro’s House and Voyager’s Café, a joint guesthouse and coffee shop located in Gwangju’s Seo-gu district. Known for being traveler-friendly and internationally themed, Lea’s primary role there centered on creating a guidebook for the guests, both local and foreigner. She says that Jeonnam Province, specifically, attracted her attention because there is such a limited amount of information available in any language for travelers to the area, and what was available was sloppy, boring, or ugly. She wanted to provide interesting content that would draw both locals and tourists to explore the area more because, she says, “there’s so much to see and do that no one really knows about. People would say, ‘oh, there’s nothing there, it’s so boring,’ and that’s really not true.” Her typical schedule as an intern was to spend two days researching a new location, one day exploring, and about two days writing and editing. Other responsibilities included cleaning, welcoming guests, and assisting with various activities put on by the guest house.
◀ ▲ Previous page: Lea, biking across Europe. This page: Top: Lea and Leo in Malaysia. Bottom: Lea with Pedro Kim at Pedro’s House.
COMMUNITY
20 20 Community Leader
Áine Byrne Written by Josh Garcia Photographs courtesy of Áine Byrne
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
October 2017
T
here is an art to everything. It may reveal itself in the details of design, finesse, craft, presentation, or interpretation, but everything from your living room bookshelf to your next haircut holds an element of art. And for those of you who don’t believe there’s an art to falling down a set of stairs, I have some Chevy Chase videos to send your way. Now, the importance of art is just as much communal as it is internal, and Gwangju’s own shining example of this significance is found in the art classes at GIC, co-hosted by Áine Byrne. The classes were first started in 2015 when MariyaHaponenko wanted to create something for the community that could bring together artists of all skill levels and interests. The GIC welcomed this idea with open arms and has since hosted the group on a regular basis. Although the GIC is self-funded and money can be scarce, the group is creative in stretching their
resources as far as they can go. After Haponenko left, Áine, Jen Lee and Susan Sahab helped to keep the class going with the support of Min Park, and JeongSohee from the GIC, Lisa Causas, Jordan L. Matis and Rapib Hasan Apu. Byrne explains, “We really listen to what people are interested in and try to cover anything we can: painting, figure drawing, paper art, water colors, flip books, printmaking, and so on. We even worked on mandalas as a form of art therapy.” The group always keeps the community in mind and has no hesitation to return the favor whenever they are able, as fundraisers are regularly put into motion to raise money for local charities. “We even did dog portraits to raise money for the local dog shelter,” Byrne added. Through the seasons and rotations of artists, the group keeps its focus
fresh. They have utilized many of the talented and knowledgeable local artists around town to take over as temporary hosts and teachers and seem to always encourage a sense of openness and comradery. It is a place where friendships are made and new territory is charted. “So many people have talent, they just don’t exercise it,” Byrne tells me. “Some people may obsess over Realism, but it’s important to break the rules. It’s not about perfectionism. It’s about style.” Áine Byrne is originally from Ireland and has always found herself drawn to the freedom of art. “As a teenager, I was obsessed with cartoons and fine art,” says Byrne, who attended the Fine Art School in Dublin, majoring in graphic design and minoring in illustration. She has since gone on to extensively create in the design world as well as the education sector. Since arriving in Gwangju two years ago, Byrne has found a sincere appreciation for what this city holds:
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◀ ▲ Previous page: Sketchbooks – a Google Image 2017. This page: Left: Áine Byrne. Right: Top: A Figure Drawing – Aine Byrne 2017. Bottom: Printmaking Class 2016
As Byrne has continued to evolve
Byrne is burning with ambition and passion for art, but she remains humble and eternally thankful for each opportunity she has to connect with others: “I’m just so grateful for
Min Park and the GIC for always supporting us and being so helpful. She really is there for everything that comes out of the GIC.” Catch the next art class by checking the GIC calendar online. THE AUTHOR
Josh Garcia is an English teacher who lives in Gwangju. He is a native Texan and uses most of his free time playing music and enjoying the outdoors.
October 2017
Shortly after arriving in Gwangju, Byrne visited the commemorative cemetery for those who were lost in the Gwangju Democratic Movement and took incredible inspiration from that into her art. “I wanted to get the story of those lost lives out there. So many people don’t really know the whole story of what happened here, and I wanted to get the story of Gwangju out to the people.”
with her approach to art, so have the art classes. “Jen Lee co-hosts with me, and I love collaborating with her. She has been there with the group just as long as I have, but we will be pairing up with the GIC Culture Class in the future to provide more options and reach more people.” Byrne has recently moved to Wando, and has continued to bring people together to explore new interests and find their groove with the Wando Language Exchange and Wando Capoeira Group.
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
“I feel especially amazed by Gwangju and the community here. There are so many people here that enjoy creating, but I also see a link between the art and the history of Gwangju.”
COMMUNITY
22 Live in Gwangju
Gwangju Live: Open Mics Around Town Written by Andrew Vlasblom Photographed by Park Tae-sang and Ben Robins
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
October 2017
T
o live in Gwangju is to live in a city brimming with art. Over the past eight years that I’ve lived here, I have been constantly grateful for and impressed by a community that welcomes various forms of artistic expression and new ideas. As a musician, I am often drawn to the heart of the music scene here, which, luckily for me and other musicians and live music appreciators, is very much alive and beating. A big way we can experience and enjoy live music by local musicians is at the open mic events around the city, where everyone and every genre of music are welcome. CORONA OPEN MIC (Corona restaurant, every other Tuesday at 9 p.m.) Corona’s open mic, held every other Tuesday at the Mexican restaurant, Corona, in Chonnam University’s back gate area, has everything that makes live music settings charming: intimate atmosphere, ambient lighting, great drinks, a generous owner (Choong Jun), and delicious food. One major way that Corona’s open mic is unique is that, as Corona is primarily a restaurant, the atmosphere is a bit quieter and suited to slower and softer music. Yet, while patrons are more likely to give quieter tunes a listen, the atmosphere remains lively and suitable for all
musicians: whether they play instrumentals, rock, hiphop, or Middle Eastern music, the audience warmly and energetically welcomes whatever is on tap. The host and heart of Corona’s open mic, Daniel Wallace, is a humorous and approachable fellow, so if you’re interested in playing, just talk to him and he’ll fit you in – no sign-up required. Address: 9 Hodong-ro 15-beongil, Buk-gu, Gwangju 광주 북구 호동로 15번길 9
Take bus 06 from downtown to Chonnam University’s back gate.
TEQUILAZ OPEN MIC (Tequilaz bar, every other Wednesday at 9:30 p.m.) This open mic, held every other Wednesday at the Tequilaz restaurant in the heart of downtown, is a popular spot for both musicians and audiences – and with good reason: it’s a party! The Mexican bar comes alive with lighting that sets the stage for a night of fun, and the drinks, served by generous and personable bartenders, are mixed to perfection. Every style of music is welcome here, of course, and the audiences are supportive and energetic. While the official time for the open mic at Tequilaz is 9:30–12:30, they often go into the early hours of the morning as both regular and new musicians keep the tunes coming. Once again, Daniel Wallace hosts this event, so just approach
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◀ Previous page: Left to right: Laureline Claeys, Ashley Johnson, and Kaitlyn Wachter dazzling the audience at Loft 28. (Photo by Ben Robins)
him wherever he may be and he’ll fit you in, no sign-up required. As Corona and Tequilaz open mics are run on alternating weeks, you can enjoy Corona one week and Tequilaz the next. Address: (2F) 91 Gwangsan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주 동구 광산동 91 2층
Address: (3F) 157-20 Yongbong-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju 광주 북구 용봉동157-20, 3층
Take bus 06 from downtown to Chonnam University’s back gate.
Address: 7-1 194-beongil, Jebong-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주 동구 제봉로194번길 7-1 (대인동)
Thanks to these open mic events and the hosts who run them, the opportunity to regularly play and appreciate live music in Gwangju is a beautiful reality. And because the city is not overly large, musicians have more chances to stand out and deliver something unique from other acts, while also getting to know each other on a more personal level. So, come on out to these events and support live music; whether you play, listen, socialize with good people, or all of the above, you’re sure to have a great time. THE AUTHOR Hailing from Canada, Andrew Vlasblom has lived in Gwangju since August 2009. He enjoys playing the accordion and hitchhiking.
October 2017
OPEN SPACE DREAMERS (Daein Market, every Saturday at 8 p.m.) Open Space Dreamers runs live music events every Saturday night at 8 p.m. in Daein Market. Run by the hospitable Tae-Sang Park and frequented by his team of “Dreamers” (regular musicians at the space), the mission here is to break down cultural barriers and open up the
minds of especially young audiences. As Dreamers is run in an open market, many of the spectators here are families with children, so the music played here tends to be familyfriendly. The open atmosphere is lively and engaging, and the audience changes throughout the evening due to the market environment. The experience is always refreshing. There are often events held at Dreamers, such as culturalthemed evenings, commemorative events (such as for the May 18th Uprising and Sewol disaster memorial nights), fundraisers, band concerts, and more. However, most nights are free for musicians to show up and play music in this unique night market setting. Speak to Tae-Sang for an opportunity to play. Rest assured, so long as time permits (the space closes at 10 p.m.), Tae-Sang will slot you in.
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
LOFT 28 (Loft 28 club/café, every Friday at 10 p.m.) LOFT 28’s open mic, held every Friday night at LOFT 28 near Chonnam University’s back gate, is a great event to kick off the weekend. Many of this open mic’s frequenters are students from Chonnam University, and they offer a variety of musical backgrounds and genres to be appreciated. While you may know LOFT 28 as a club on Saturday nights, it is a café during the daytime, and on Friday nights the atmosphere here is both lively and relaxed – a good mix that works with most genres of music you might want to play or listen to. The food here is delicious, the beer tastes great, and the coffee (European-style) tastes even better. If you’re interested in playing at LOFT 28 open mic, just show up after 10 p.m. and talk to Craig. There is a sign-up sheet, but chances are very good that you will get a slot to play your tunes.
◀ This page: Left: Fantastic Mistake and friends performing at Dreamers Open Space inside Daein Night Market. (Photo by Park Tae-sang) Above: Edward Kim serenading listeners at Corona open mic. (Photo by Park Tae-sang)
SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
24 Sports
Climb On! Written by Meg Coast Photographed by Meg Coast and Ben Robins
▲ A leap of faith at a typical Bawi bouldering party.
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
October 2017
D
usty, chalk-coated hands, the feeling of cool, hard stone under rough, callused skin. Fingers reaching, hands running along the veins and wrinkles of rock face in search of a crevice, a ledge – anything that will serve as a hold. Heart hammering. Muscles thick and swollen, lactic acid coursing through drained forearms. Push through, persevere, breathe; climb on! Just you and the rock face, time in suspense, the world below forgotten. At the top, views that are unparalleled await. The rush of euphoria. This is the world of climbing, and the rock face is open to anyone who’s up for a challenge. Be warned, however – though your feet may hit solid ground again, your heart now belongs up on the mountain. In the words of Ron Akers: “To see what others cannot, you must climb the mountain.” All the best things start with a little risk and adventure, and climbing is no exception. If you plan to make your time in Korea count, and you want to see what this amazing country has to offer – all while having fun and getting fit – consider looking at things from a (literally) different perspective and giving rock climbing a go. The rock climbing scene in Korea is still relatively young, but despite the fact that this sport is in its early days, it’s growing fast, and you’ll find that there are plenty of
options, both indoors and outdoors, for thrill-seekers who don’t mind getting their hands chalky. Most climbers tend to spend the majority of their time training at indoor climbing centers in preparation for the real thing outdoors, and as always, Gwangju has you covered with a choice of gyms to suit all of your climbing needs. The downtown clientele frequent two main gyms, Bawi and Climben. Climben is a great place to gain experience and try out lead climbing and bouldering routes that will test the strength and endurance of any climber. My rock climbing adventure, however, started at Bawi’s front door. Underneath Bawi’s rock logo is the subtitle “Road to Adventure,” and they couldn’t have picked a more appropriate slogan. Little did I know, when I handed over the cash for a one-day pass and took my first tentative steps on a training wall, that I’d be scaling mountains mere months later – with nothing but a rope and harness between me and gravity. Don’t let size deceive you; while Bawi isn’t the largest climbing gym in the city, it packs a punch, and it is known for its challenging and creative routes that’ll have even the most seasoned climbers frustrated and pushed to their limits. Walk down Bawi’s steps and, once in the gym, you’ll find a lead climbing wall, multiple training walls, and a
25 colorful array of bouldering routes to keep you occupied. Newly set bouldering routes of varying levels from beginner VB to pro V8 appear every Friday, and members are encouraged to join regular, friendly “bouldering parties” to test out their new climbing skills in a supportive and fun environment. If you’re interested in trying rock climbing but don’t want to commit, Bawi offers one-day passes and one-off guided lessons with an experienced instructor who will walk you through the absolute basics of climbing technique before giving you a chance to try your hand at lead climbing and bouldering. If, like me, you’re hooked from the get-go, monthly memberships start at 110,000 KRW, with discounts available if you sign up for longer periods of time. Thorough courses including lead climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and bouldering are also offered, and they will see you safely from indoor gym to outdoor rock face, where you can put your newly acquired skills to the test as, for many climbers, the Great Outdoors is where you can truly experience the thrill and adrenaline of climbing.
TRAVEL
Beyond the rocks themselves, dream team Sun-gyo, Sang-a, and Young-su are what make Bawi truly special. Owner Sun-gyo has 12 years of climbing experience under his belt and, among various other achievements, has been a representative member of the Gwangju climbing team for the national climbing championships. As a qualified route-setter for national and international competitions, he most enjoys making new and creative routes, watching how climbers go about solving them, and sharing their knowledge. All three members of staff bring an incredible level of experience and skill with a genuine love for climbing; between them, they have cultivated a warm and welcoming atmosphere where the gym and its members become a second family and a home away from home.
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
To those who are contemplating climbing but aren’t sure, the Bawi team says, “Just try it!” After all, to steal a line from Sir Edmund Hillary, “it is not the mountain that we conquer, but ourselves.” BAWI CLIMBING CENTER 바위 클라이밍 센터 Address: 광주 동구 예술길 31-15 광주아트센터 Gwangju Art Center, 31-15 Yesulgil, Dong-gu, Gwangju Telephone: 062-229-0510 Operating Hours: Weekdays 12 noon - midnight, weekends 12 noon - 8 p.m.
▲ Top: Clinging to ceiling holds. Bottom: The Bawi crew taking a rare rest to pose for a photo.
October 2017
THE AUTHOR Meg has lived in Korea and been involved in the Gwangju community for the last three years, including performances with the GPP and writing occasional articles for Gwangju News. She is an avid lover of all things active and outdoorsy, and loves to spend an unreasonable amount of time climbing.
SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
26 Lost in Gwangju
Get Your (Roller) Skates on to Sangmu!
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
October 2017
Written by Wilhelmina Asaam Photographs courtesy of Roller Gaja
H
ave you noticed that your favorite cuddly-toysnatching machines have stopped filling you with excitement? Are your norae-bang (노래방, singing room) days firmly behind you, and are you in desperate need of a new way to spend your fall evenings? You know how it goes in Korea, trends pop in and out, and you don’t want to be left behind.
It is situated close to the 5.18 Memorial Park, just to the left of the large E-mart store in Sangmu.. You’ll see the flashing disco lights and big skate logo up on the top floor of the building. Don’t make the mistake we did of entering through the back entrance; the real way in is beside the sushi restaurant, and you can get the elevator all the way up!
Having heard about the new roller-skating rink that opened in Sangmu in July, Gwangju News sent me on a mission to test it out and diligently report back to you all. Roller skating could easily be the latest trend in cool evening activities for us in Gwangju!
Instagram advertises prices as ten thousand won for two hours; however, at less busy times, they let you stay for an unlimited period at the same price. I was lucky enough to enjoy this privilege when I arrived on Friday night at 8 p.m. to check it out with a friend.
My brief days playing roller derby made me think I was the best person for this role. Whilst my skills definitely aren’t up to par anymore, this joint definitely is!
As soon as I entered, the atmosphere got me excited and ready for a party. The violet lights, loud, current music, and young staff made me feel like I was about to hit the club and let loose. This definitely eased some of the pre-skate
27 nerves that I had started to feel. After paying, we were directed to the suiting-up area! They had a variety of sizes for all the necessary safety gear: helmets, wrist guards, and knee pads. Then of course... the skates, with Westerner sizes available. Just make sure you know your size in millimeters! There were Polaroid photos on the wall as a how-to guide on wearing the gear. However, I would have liked a member of the staff there to offer guidance. If you’ve never worn a wrist guard before, chances are you’ll put it on backwards. The arena itself is gorgeous. The previously mentioned violet lighting, the disco balls, and the DJ booth in the center all serve to make you feel like you’ve just stepped foot into an updated retro music video. There are several plush leather sofas placed behind barriers that you can skate to whenever you need a break. For the Instagram-lovers, there are quite a few good selfie-taking spots, too. Once you’re tired out from skating and in need of some refreshments, you only need to duck out of the rink right to their “Rollertop” café. This café is fully stocked with a variety of snacks from ramen to Haribo! The actual café menu includes quite a few items such as mandu (만두, steamed dumplings), hamburgers, ice cream, and coffee. This is pretty convenient and keeps you from having to head to the convenience store for your snacks! In other words, you have more time to keep skating.
I recommend checking it out as soon as possible, as word will inevitably spread and this can quickly become a popular spot.
October 2017
ROLLER GAJA 롤러가자 Address: 5th floor, 253 Uncheon-ro, Seo-gu, Gwangju 광주 서구 운천로 253 Telephone: 010-8450-6022 Operating Hours: Every day, 11 am to midnight. Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/rollergaja/ How to get to Roller Gaja: – By Bus Take any bus stopping at the 5.18 Memorial Park stop or the City Hall stop, and then it’s a short walk from either. – By Subway Line 1: Uncheon Station – Exit 3.
THE AUTHOR Self-proclaiming as a “bit of a hippy,” Mina moved to Gwangju in the pursuit of new experiences – which she believes keeps her present and truly living her best life. She can be found vlogging about these things on YouTube as MinaTheNuevist.
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
Roller Gaja was a fun and stylish experience in a trendy part of Gwangju. You can do some skating and then grab dinner and drinks in the Sangmu area to try something other than the usual downtown night out. Alternatively, it can be a fun daytime activity, especially as the summer comes to an end and the outdoors becomes less appealing.
28 28 Where to Eat
FOOD & DRINKS
HAWAIIAN BOWL Written by Justin Ramsay Photographed by Lorryn Smit
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
October 2017
G
rowing up, I was one of those difficult kids who used to push their veggies aside at dinner time. While happily munching away on any meat or carbs, I would avoid the green monstrosities sitting beside them. Inevitably, I’d be coerced into finishing everything on the plate by my parents with the threat of no dessert or an early bedtime, but I can’t say I ever really relished that part of the meal when I was young. Luckily, as we get older and wiser, our tastes change, and we grow to appreciate, and even enjoy, the things that were the bane of every mealtime when we were little whippersnappers. Since I hit my 20s – and especially since moving to Korea – I have found that I have come to enjoy eating the wonderful, fresh produce that Mother Nature provides us with, and now make it an important part of every meal. With this in mind, and the fact that the last few months I have covered restaurants whose dishes are centered mostly around meats, I have decided to try a new spot that recently opened in Gwangju where fresh vegetables and salads are the stars of the show. Hawaiian Bowl is a poke bowl and salad restaurant that opened a little over a month ago next to Kunst Lounge, across from the ACC. There isn’t a great abundance of Hawaiian-inspired restaurants where I’m from in South Africa, so upon reading the storefront sign, “Hawaiian Bowl Salad and Poke,” I was mildly confused and
suspected something might have been lost in translation. Upon doing a quick Google search of “Hawaiian poke” though, I felt a bit silly when I found that it was, in fact, the name of a dish originating in Hawaii. A poke bowl is a rice-based dish consisting of sushi rice, various vegetables, and some meat or meat substitute, such as tofu. Once we sat down in the tiny restaurant, we realized it was more an “on-the-go” place than a “sit down and settle in for a big meal” kind of place. There are only about 10 chairs in Hawaiian Bowl, so I recommend going with just a couple of friends rather than a big group if you plan on eating in. The décor of the restaurant is very apt and captures all the imagery and tropes that one associates with Hawaii. A surfboard is on the wall with the restaurant’s name emblazoned on it. There are small, inflatable palm trees and neon pink flamingos aplenty, as well as lovely little menus with both English and Korean names that are both full of color and easy to navigate. The food part of the menu is split into four sections: poke bowl, salad bowl, musubi and cup noodle, and corn. On the reverse side, the drinks menu contains a few options that are not very common in Korea, which was a welcome surprise. Along with the staples of Americano, Coca Cola, and bottled water, there is also a sugar cane latte, five different Hawaiian Sun drinks (even guava), and seven
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different Kona Brewing Co. beers. After a quick browse, my companion and I ordered the fresh salmon poke bowl, chicken breast salad bowl, parboiled octopus salad bowl, and spam musubi (similar to kimbap). We also ordered a Hanalei IPA and a Lemongrass Luau blonde ale to cool off, since the sun was out in full force that day. Because the restaurant is small and very open, we could watch the staff preparing everything in front of us (which was quite nice), and we could see that all the ingredients they were using were very fresh. After 10–15 minutes, we were given our drinks and all four dishes at the same time. Everything came served in plastic take-out bowls with handles, and every dish was full of color.
Both the octopus and the chicken went well with the other ingredients in the salad, and I enjoyed both equally. The musubi was well presented and had a familiar taste, resembling a fancy version of Korea’s beloved kimbap.
Another thing worth mentioning is that they deliver (to certain areas). For a 3,000 won delivery fee, you can get fresh, healthy food and fantastic drinks delivered to your home or workplace. If you want a quick, fresh meal at great value, I recommend checking out Hawaiian Bowl. HAWAIIAN BOWL 하와이안 보울 Address: 광주 동구 제봉로 126 126 Jaebong-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju Telephone: 062-229-3882 Operating Hours: Daily 8 a.m. - 11 p.m. Price Range: 3,000 – 9,000 won per person
THE AUTHOR
Justin is an English teacher from South Africa who has lived in Gwangju since 2013. He is a big fan of food and the arts and generally goes where something good can be eaten, seen or heard. He is often involved in GPP performances and writes monthly food articles for the Gwangju News. In his free times he’s usually playing boardgames, videogames or just enjoying a nice stroll around Gwangju.
October 2017
The meat parts of the dish were the only real difference between the two salads. The octopus salad came with tasty, thinly sliced, soft octopus and a few shrimp, which were sprinkled with herbs and sesame oil. The chicken salad came with flakey, juicy chicken breast meat with a light sprinkling of cheese.
My favorite part of the meal was the salmon poke bowl. The bowl was filled about halfway with tasty sushi rice, with neatly arranged, fresh ingredients covering the rice and topped off with a healthy portion of salmon. (I particularly relished the salmon in the poke bowl and enjoyed trying to get a bit of each ingredient in every mouthful, as they tasted even better together.) The two Kona beers were also great, with light, satisfying flavors that didn’t overpower the flavor of the food.
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The salad part of the salad bowl was largely the same in the chicken salad and octopus salad. Every ingredient was fresh and cooked/sliced well. The apples had a good crunch. The pumpkin, sweet potato, and broccoli were steamed for just the right amount of time; and all the lettuce and cabbage varieties had a satisfying crunch and were covered in delicious dressing.
Next time I order at Hawaiian Bowl, I’ll probably order the Musubi & Noodle Set, which comes with Nissin Cup noodles for under 7, 500 won.
30 Kitchen Stories
Makgeolli Written and photographed by Karly Pierre
FOOD & DRINKS
C
ooking class has ended, and all of the pots and utensils have been cleaned and put away. Na Sumi, 52, pours a packet of powdery instant coffee into a cup and offers it to me. In today’s class, we made donkkaseu (돈까스, fried pork cutlet) and godeungeomujorim (고등어무조림, braised mackerel with radish). The sickly sweet coffee is oddly refreshing, so I take a few more sips as Na pulls up a chair next to me and flips open her phone cover. Her eyes brighten as she swipes through the photos she’d promised to show me. “This one blooms at night,” she says, pointing to the frosty white petals of a Dutchman’s Pipe Cactus. “It fills my house with the wonderful scent of lemon and closes at sunrise.” She scrolls through more of the rare and exotic flowers growing in her home, some of which she has spent more than ten years caring for.
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October 2017
“It’s like spring in my house year-round,” she says with delight. Na’s green thumb is rivaled only by her deft hand at cooking. Her knife skills are precise and nimble. In the blink of an eye, she can transform a whole carrot into fine, evenly sliced shreds. It’s a skill she decided to perfect because of her children. “I have four children – all daughters,” says Na. “When they were young, I made homemade potato chips. I tried using a German slicer because it was faster, but I cut myself so badly that it scared my kids. So I quit using a slicer – just used knives. It’s more difficult, but at least I wouldn’t traumatize my kids anymore.” Na has a quiet and graceful presence in the class that draws admiration and respect from the other students. As a child growing up in Naju, she was an introvert. “I didn’t like being in front of the class. Sometimes my classmates would appoint me class leader, but that sort of thing always made me uncomfortable. I felt responsible for every mistake my classmates made or their bad
behavior. I barely talked in school or played with friends.” While in college, her father’s business collapsed, and later he was involved in a car accident that resulted in a person’s death. Those were two harsh financial and emotional blows to the family. Na had to quit college, but even after getting married and having children, she never gave up on her dream of completing university. “When my youngest daughter started middle school, I decided it was time for me to pursue my dreams again… I just graduated from a four-year university in February.” Making food from scratch the long, hard, and traditional way has always fascinated Na. She attends various lectures about age-old cooking techniques and reads ancient texts such as the Eumsik-dimibang (the first cookbook written in Hangul) to learn more about the Korean lifestyle lost to modern life. “We brew and drink makgeolli (막걸리, Korean rice wine) at home like people did in the past. I stayed in Jeonju for six months to learn how to make makgeolli from a master traditional wine-maker named Park Rom-dam. We live in the countryside, so it’s easy for us to gather all of the rice we need… besides, my husband likes alcohol more than rice,” she says, smiling. Na’s interest in these archaic techniques stems from her desire to solve a family mystery. “When I was little, my grandmother always made traditional sweet rice puffs in winter. She would spread them on her floor. I also remember her making jocheong (조청, grain syrup) in a huge iron cauldron and selling it. It was as clear and clean as honey. Those memories are carved so deeply in my mind that I want to replicate her recipes. My biggest regret is that I only ate her food and never asked her for the recipes. I have called relatives to ask them about her recipes, but they don’t remember either. So, I’ve decided to figure it out on my own. I have no idea how long that will take, and I’ve failed so many times. But I continue to practice every day, and hopefully one day I’ll succeed.
31 MAKGEOLLI
This recipe uses traditional equipment to make makgeolli. You can substitute some of the special equipment with more modern kitchenware such as a glass jar, metal strainer, and metal steamer. Special Equipment Korean earthenware jar (hangari, 항아리 or suldok, 술독) Traditional Korean woven basket filter (yongsu, 용수) Clay steamer Cheesecloth Ingredients 4kg glutinous rice (chapssal, 찹쌀) 500g nuruk yeast (누룩) 5.4 liters water
October 2017
THE AUTHOR Karly Pierre has an MA in Mass Communication and has worked as an editor and writer for several publications. She is currently an assistant professor in the ESL department at Chosun University.
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Method 1. Rinse rice in water and soak for 8–10 hours in a bowl. Rinse again lightly until the water is clear, then drain. 2. Soak the clay steamer in water for at least 30 minutes. This will prevent the steamer from cracking. 3. Pour some water in the base of the steamer. Place cheesecloth on the steamer basket and attach the steamer basket to the base of the steamer. 4. Put the soaked rice on the cheesecloth and cover the steamer. Steam the rice on medium heat. 5. Periodically turn the rice over in the steamer so that the bottom and top of the rice cooks evenly. 6. Sprinkle a little cold water on the rice. Make sure the rice is well cooked. Remove the rice from the steamer. On a flat surface, spread the rice out thinly and evenly. Allow the rice to completely cool and become dry. 7. In a pot, boil 5.4 liters of water. Cover with a lid and allow to completely cool. 8. In a bowl, thoroughly mix rice, cool water, and nuruk yeast by hand. 9. Pour the mixture into the Korean earthenware jars. Wipe any splashes on the inside and lip of the jar clean with a cloth. Cover the opening of the jar with a cotton cloth, and tie a string around the lip of the jar to secure it. Cover with a lid. 10. Wrap a blanket around the jar, and put it in a place with a constant temperature. Let rest for two days. 11. When the mixture begins to bubble, remove the lid and put the jar in a cool place. 12. Once the bubbling has stopped, cover the jar with a lid and wrap in a blanket for 3 weeks in a cool place. 13. When there is no more carbon dioxide in the liquid, you can drink the makgeolli. If you want your makgeolli to have a cleaner appearance, use a traditional woven basket to filter out the rice.
32 32 Korean Food
Stories Behind Korean Rice Cakes (Tteok)
FOOD & DRINKS
Written by Cho Namhee
W
herever there is rice involved in a culture, there is usually rice cake. While rice cakes are prevalent in Asia, Korean tteok (떡) is unique to the Korean culture. Though, nowadays, rice cake shops have drastically decreased since the introduction of Western bakeries and baked goods, and as a consequence, the total national rice consumption is plummeting year after year. Demands for tteok skyrocket near Korean traditional holidays such as the New Year and Chuseok, the harvest moon festival. It is understandable from the fact that flour was only introduced to Korea a few decades ago, and rice was the previous dominant staple grain that was highly valued and used in so many ways. There are countless tteok recipes that have been passed down through the ages, from generation to generation. Instead of introducing their varieties and ingredients, this month’s Korean food article will focus on sayings and proverbs related to tteok to see how they were regarded and understood among Koreans in the past.
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October 2017
웬 떡이야! (What tteok is this!)
This expression means “lucky me” and is used when one gets unexpected good fortune. We can tell from this expression that tteok was not served often, and that it would be surprising if it were to be served on a day other than a special day. 밥 위에 떡 (Tteok on top of rice)
This saying is used when something good is topped with something even better. It can be inferred that rice cake was valued even more than rice. 떡 줄 사람은 꿈도 안 꾸는데 김칫국부터 마신다
(Don’t count your chickens before they are hatched.) This proverb literally means to drink one’s kimchi soup (and wait for the tteok to be served) when there is no one even dreaming of giving out any tteok. This saying portrays the eagerness of having tteok in the past.
남의 떡에 설 쇤다 (Spend the New Year’s with other’s
tteok)
얻은 떡이 두레반이다 (Getting rice cakes covering a
round table (두레반)) It was customary to have tteok with family and relatives on special days. If the family was wealthy enough, they made enough tteok not only for their families, but also the neighbors. These two sayings portray how common it was to share tteok during traditional holidays. When one moved into a new house, it was also customary to share siru-tteok (시루떡), steamed rice cake garnished with adzuki beans, with the new neighbors. In addition to the above sayings, here are some fun facts about the special tteok made and eaten on Chuseok. Songpyeon (송편, half-moon-shaped rice cakes) was used as a means of fortune-telling. The shapes of these songpyeon told single women about their future husbands, and pregnant women about their future children. Pregnant women could also guess their babies’ gender by tasting cooked songpyeon. It is unfortunate to see the rice cake shops being replaced by bakeries nowadays. However, since there are still endeavors being made to keep the tradition, Korean rice cake culture will not disappear. Happy Chuseok and enjoy your holidays filled with rice cakes! THE AUTHOR
Cho Namhee communication at University.
currently studies Chonnam National
Around Korea
33
TRAVEL
Jinju’s Favorite Festival Written and photographed by Stephanie and Ryan Hedger
FLOATING LANTERNS Beyond the gates and stone walls of Jinju Fortress lies an atmosphere more likely recognized as a festival. On both sides of the river, guests will be treated to a seemingly endless array of food options, live music, and arts and
October 2017
JINJU FORTRESS The Jinju Lantern Festival commemorates the use of lanterns and kites as forms of communication by Korean forces to resist invaders during the Imjin War (1592–98).
Situated on the banks of Jinju’s predominant river, Jinju Fortress sits atop a hill that overlooks all of today’s festival grounds. As the cultural center of Jinju, this fortress is the perfect start to experiencing the city’s most popular festival. Though the lanterns floating on the river garner the majority of the festival’s fame, the sprawling lawns and gardens of the fortress are adorned with hundreds of lanterns. Depicting everything from classic Korean folklore to scenes of battle; children’s games to iconic Korean figures throughout the ages, the fortress is not to be missed.
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T
FESTIVALS OF LIGHT here are two festivals we find ourselves returning to year after year, and they both revolve around lanterns. Generally, festivals can be overwhelming and often overcrowded, but two festivals celebrating lanterns and their place in Korean culture have struck a perfect balance between location, stimulus, and people. While most people first consider the lantern festivals of Seoul and Busan to celebrate Buddha’s birthday in the spring, another festival in autumn is built upon the glowing spectacle of traditional lanterns and is located in Jinju.
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October 2017 34
35 crafts, as well as the bulk of the lantern collection. Floating on the river are platforms on which dozens of lanterns shine brightly into the night, displaying designs and displays from all around the world. Though most floating lanterns are iconic images of Korean history, there are often crowd favorites depicting characters from popular culture, movies, and television. These glowing beacons of artistry are varied and ensure that anyone visiting the festival is sure to find something of interest. A TUNNEL OF LIGHT Apart from the lanterns and typical festival fare, visitors are also treated to the stunning lantern tunnel that stretches for hundreds of meters and creates its own world of color and light. A favorite destination for couples and selfie-seekers, this tunnel is as visually stunning as its feel of a secluded escape from the crowds. Surrounded by uniform lanterns, the tunnel is a beautiful place to go for a walk and enjoy the beauty of simple traditions. A FESTIVAL UNLIKE ANY OTHER The lantern festival in Jinju is a stunning retreat from the typical festival experience in a city that seems to have perfected the harmony between tradition and modern festival expectations. Of all the festivals one can experience in South Korea, the festivals in spring and autumn involving lanterns are, in our experience, the most enjoyable and repeatable. Jinju falls into its stride with its annual lantern festival and does a masterful job at entertaining its guests as well as paying homage to the
history that lived and breathed in the fortress grounds so many years ago. During October, be sure to set aside a weekend to experience or revisit one of Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most charming festivals. The Jinju Lantern Festival will start on October 1 with the opening ceremonies and continue through October 15. For these two weeks, the fortress, river, lanterns, bridges, and festival food will be front and center for all who are able to witness such a special event. Located around Jinju Fortress and the South River, the Jinju Namgang Yudeung Festival is both a large and a perfect escape for anyone wanting a reason to step back into time and enjoy a lighthearted look into Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s amazing past with all of the comforts one would expect of a modern festival. THE AUTHORS
Ryan and Stephanie have lived, traveled, and worked in South Korea since 2013. Based out of Yeosu, they are the duo behind Hedgers Abroad, their blog, which documents their lives through photography, videos, and shared stories. They freelance in their spare time and are on the road constantly.
Blog: www.hedgersabroad.com Facebook: /hedgersabroad Instagram: /hedgersabroad
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October 2017
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Myanmar Written by Kristyna Zaharek Photographed by Chinh Le Duc and Kristyna Zaharek
I TRAVEL COMMUNITY
am a window-seat kind of gal.
We all know why the middle is the worst – who loves being squished between two strangers? And the aisle can be nice for frequent bathroom-users. But I love the window seat. There are few things as wonderful as pulling my knees up to my chest and leaning against the plastic porthole as we rush faster down the runway. Soon, the plane is off the ground. I look out and see the earth disappear beneath the carpet of clouds.
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October 2017
This is the closest I will get to having the power of flight.
Time passes. The clouds break, and we descend beneath a fluffy barrier. The first sight of upcoming adventure. Holding my breath, I scan the world I’m about to explore, to see not buildings or cityscapes or Eiffel Towers but lush, rolling hills abundant in greenery. I didn’t choose Myanmar because I wanted good food or romantic ambiance. I chose it for the landscape – a first for me (I usually go the foodie route). I chose it as a place to lose myself. And lose myself I did. Myanmar used to be called “Burma.” There are over 100 tribes in Myanmar, and the Burmese tribe is the biggest and most well known. When the English colonizers came in 1886, they couldn’t pronounce the original
name of the country (Pyidaungzu Myanma Naingngandaw). But they could pronounce “Burma,” so that’s what they called it. (“Burma” is actually a name for a colony within the country of Myanmar. It doesn’t include the people as a whole.) But for the next 100 years, the people fought back to reclaim the name, and since 1989, most recognize the country as “Myanmar,” which is closer to the original name. Interestingly enough, many of the Myanma people do not recognize the new name as the nation’s official title. As soon as I landed in this gorgeous country, I knew in part what would be waiting for me. Using a taxi service, I hired a driver (roughly 120 USD) to take me the four-hour trek from Mandalay to Bagan.
37 Cattle roamed the sides of the streets – skinny animals that didn’t look as if they could produce quality milk. Pigs also lay in the shade. Some of them even let their bodies lie under the water while I could only see their heads. Though the drive was in the evening, I could clearly see people living in tiny straw huts on the side of the road. Water rose up even to the makeshift homes. “They live here during the rainy season,” my driver, Pho Se, informed me. “See those bushes? They’re actually the tops of trees. During the late summer, parts of Mount Everest melt and overflow the rivers.” The homes were completely submerged. It was only thirty minutes into my adventure, and my heart was already breaking. Myanmar isn’t a first-world country. It is, in fact, one of the eight countries of the third world, in terms of “political rights and civil liberties.” As a whole, the country is a little smaller than the state of Texas, with a population of 52.9 million people. Now, let’s talk adventure. FOOD Like I mentioned earlier, food is
typically what I’m most excited for in a trip. However, Burmese food was found to be a bit of a disappointment. When eating in Myanmar, you are limited to eating at specific times or else you are forced to eat at nonauthentic restaurants. Breakfast was always very early; lunch was served at 11:30–2:00; and dinner, 5:00–7:00. If you showed up for the latter part of the meal, your food would almost be cold. So if you find yourself eating in this beautiful country, arrive early! One of my favorite places to eat was a restaurant that I found on the side of the road – quite by accident, too! I was even thrilled to see my tour guide from the day before eating with his friends. The food is served in a manner similar to Korean. The main dish was a noodle soup of chicken or beef, with rice on the side, and tons of side dishes. Though everything tasted wonderfully unique, I couldn’t finish anything other than the soup. Everything was incredibly oily! This was something I noticed in all traditional Burmese meals. It was all very oily, salty, and spicy; and rarely did they venture away from the trifecta. In fact, since the colonization of the country, the amount of true Burmese food was rare. In a tea house near a giant pagoda – I was probably the
first foreigner they had met – the only meal served was similar to fettuccini. Oily, salty, spicy, fettuccini with a yellow sauce that I still can’t name. CLOTHING This is the land of pagodas. With 90 percent of the people being Buddhist, you can guarantee that proper dress would be required. Men could wear almost whatever they wanted. Women, on the other hand, were required to cover their knees and shoulders. When I travel, I tend to not bring much clothing with me. I like to buy the clothes of the country I visit. When in Rome…, you know? So as soon as I arrived, Pho Se was more than excited to take me shopping to get me properly dressed. The hostel I stayed in also provided a free tour, so I was able to visit a woman who made and sold clothes in a provincial village. She also made her own cigars, which she let me smoke. At 91 years old, she was one of the most beautiful women I’d ever seen. Who ever said smoking was bad for you? HAIR I just want to point out that everyone in this country had amazing hair. They may be third world, but the www.gwangjunewsgic.com
October 2017
38 FINAL NOTES A place is made by its beauty, its food, its culture, and its people. Though it was beautiful, this is not what made the country the most memorable for me. What truly stood out was the people. As I noted earlier, Myanmar is a third-world country. Despite this, the people who live there are some of the happiest people I’ve ever met. You can be walking down the street and smile at a local, and they’ll smile right back at you. It’s not a painful smile, either. They smile brightly and honestly.
barbers and stylists know what they’re doing.
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October 2017
BEAUTY The amount of beauty in this country is almost ridiculous. Before the earthquake of 1975, over 10,000 pagodas decorated the ancient city of Bagan. Now, unfortunately only about 2,000 remain. Still, the sunrises and sunsets of this country are unbelievable. Of course, I signed up for a sunrise with a local. In the early morning darkness, he led us to a pagoda. I couldn’t see any steps along the outside. I began questioning my decision when he took us into the pitch of the pagoda’s interior. We couldn’t see it, but there was a hidden staircase on the inside! Carefully, we climbed the stairs to the roof of the pagoda. The sunrise was purely breathtaking; I think I actually held my breath for the majority of the time. My heart forgot to beat as well. There are these moments in life where you feel everything is right. You exist in that moment. Nothing else matters. Standing atop the pagoda, watching the sunrise, and listening to the birds chirp – this was one of those moments. HOUSING I stayed at Ostello Bello Bagan. My hostel wasn’t cheap, but it was clean, the people were kind and helpful, and it offered free cigars. Definitely a win.
Though I can’t speak for the whole country or even the whole city, I can tell you that every interaction I had with the Burmese people left me smiling from ear to ear. Because of them, I was ready to quit everything and just stay. For the first time, I wanted to cancel my plans. I did end up coming back to Korea, but, boy, was I tempted to stay in the country of golden pagodas. I recommend Myanmar to everyone. But if you go, don’t just go to see. Go to experience, to be a part of the community. They’ll welcome you with open arms. Sit and smoke with a 91-year-old woman, and you’ll discover meaning in the moments. Stand atop a pagoda, and you’ll remember why you’re glad to be alive. Smile at a local, and you’ll learn what it means to be truly happy. Go to Myanmar. THE AUTHOR Kristyna lived in Gwangju, South Korea, for two years. She is a hopeful novelist with a heart for travel. She also really likes dark chocolate.
39
ARTS & CULTURE
▲ Jeju green tea fields.
Jeju in August Written and photographed by Samantha Elisabeth
However, there’s something special about traveling in Korea’s most southern region during the hottest days of summer. The weather forces you to slow down to an almost lethargic pace. There aren’t any days for frenetic sightseeing or crazy outdoor adventure. Instead, your days are spent languidly moving from one beautiful outdoor setting to the
October 2017
I don’t think I was quite prepared for how humid the weather in Jeju would be. The minute we stepped off the plane from Gwangju, we could feel the sweat trickling down our necks, arms, and legs. Everywhere we walked, it felt as though we were wading through a muggy cloud.
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M
y friend and I had planned to travel to Jeju even before I booked my flight to come back to Korea. She had her final summer vacation in early August, and I knew I wouldn’t start work until at least the middle of the month. We had each been to Jeju before – me in the fall and her in spring, and we were both eager to return for a second visit.
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October 2017 40
◀ Top: Jeju Ilchulbong. Bottom: Camellia blossoms. ▲ This page: Sunset in Jeju Island.
next with many, many breaks in between for an icy Hallabong smoothie or peanut ice cream. If you’re like me, this all sounds perfect. After spending the better part of the year packing up my life multiple times and running around the U.S. gathering paperwork and reuniting with friends, I was ready to just relax. I wanted to soak in my surroundings and simply enjoy this beautiful island. Perhaps the best part was being able to catch each day’s golden hours. While the sun was almost unbearable in the middle of the day, morning and evening were almost magical. If you visit Jeju, wake up before sunrise and be outside for the sunset, whether it’s at Hyeopjae Beach,
Seongsan Ilchulbong, or even the random parking lot of a gun range! You’ll be treated with the kind of hues and tones no amount of Photoshop could ever hope to replicate. THE AUTHOR
Samantha is a writer and photographer over at There She Goes Again (https:// www.thereshegoesagain.org), a travel blog dedicated to slow, stylish travel for women. When she’s not planning her next adventure, she’s reading a good book, looking up cat videos, studying languages, and watching entirely too many sitcoms or YouTube videos.
42
Photo of the Month
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October 2017
ARTS & CULTURE
Written and photographed by Monique Dean-Onyema
43
Always plugged in to distractions, I often fail to realize the beauty that exists around me. On one Saturday afternoon, instead of staring intently at a smartphone screen or filling my ears with infectious melodies, I took survey of my surroundings. I noticed the colors, the sounds, the feel of the air, the energy of the people. I learned that we are surrounded by beauty, even in the most mundane of places. Sometimes all you have to do is look up.
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October 2017
Do you have any photos that you would like to show to Gwangju (and the world)? Gwangju News features a photo of the month to create more opportunities to promote more photographers based in the Jeollanamdo region and to show off our beautiful province from different areas and angles. Submissions can be posted in the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Photography in the Southâ&#x20AC;? Facebook group throughout the preceding month. Alternatively, you can also send your submissions to the editor by email: photos@gwangjunewsgic.com
44 Korean Folktales 44
The Moon Rabbit (Daltokki, 달토끼)
ARTS ARTS && CULTURE CULTURE
Written by E.J. Jones
A
s the season of Chuseok approaches, the Legend of the Moon Rabbit comes to mind. This folktale, stemming from Buddhist influcence, is often told around the harvest time. It is believed that the fullest and brightest moon appears during Chuseok, symbolizing prosperity.
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October 2017
You might have noticed, if you’ve ever found yourself staring at the full moon, that there appears to be an image of a rabbit pounding rice cakes under a cinnamon tree within the sphere. Many countries have spun their own tales about this legendary rabbit (also well known as the “Jade Rabbit” along with many other such titles). One Korean retelling of the folktale goes like this: There once was a village where there lived a rabbit, a fox, and a monkey who often played together. One day, the Great Emperor in the Heavens decided to test the animals’ loyalty to him. He came down from the sky disguised as a beggar and asked the animals each to bring him something to eat. The three generous animals instantly set out to honor the poor man’s request. The fox returned to the beggar with a fish; likewise, the monkey with some fruit. The rabbit, being a small and more limited animal, unfortunately was only able to bring back the grass he could gather. Ashamed at his feeble offering, the rabbit, in an act of self-sacrifice, proceeded to ignite the grass he’d gathered and threw himself into the flames to be eaten by the beggar as a meal. The action of the rabbit so touched the beggar-emperor that he placed the rabbit in the moon to become its guardian and surrounded him with smoke as a reminder to all of the rabbit’s noble death. Thus was born the Legend of the Moon Rabbit to be told for centuries to come.
There are several significant symbols within this touching folktale. The first is the rabbit itself. Rabbits are said to be symbols of fertility, complementing Chuseok’s purpose of making supplications for a bountiful harvest. Another symbol is that of the smoke that was placed around the rabbit in the moon by the emperor. As mentioned earlier, the smoke has been interpreted by some as appearing to be a gyesu tree. Gyesu trees are known for their sturdiness and longevity of life and their bark is also used to make cinnamon, a spice that has long been used for medicinal purposes. Longevity is something most of us long for, especially when surrounded by those dearest to us during the holiday season. The rice cake, which the rabbit appears to be making beneath the tree (sometimes the tales include two rabbits, reminding us of coming together with our families and preparing food for the holidays) is also a symbol in that rice cake is a Korean food staple or an “essence of life,” another theme of abundance of harvest. Now that you know the story of the moon rabbit, you’ll have something to ponder this Chuseok season as you take a moment to gaze up at the moon on a cool, autumn night. Perhaps you’ll even see the courageous rabbit there, faithfully crafting his rice cake beneath the sturdy branches of a gyesu tree. THE AUTHOR
Eden has been living in Korea since 2014 and enjoys reading, writing, snowboarding, and enchanting the locals with her violin when she can manage to find a spare minute away from her editing responsibilities at the Gwangju News. Eden became Managing Editor in September 2017.
Movie Review
45 45
Looking Back at a Classic Thriller:
Night of the Hunter Written by Natale Ryan
S
ince fall is around the corner, and Halloween is approaching, I thought it would be appropriate if we took a look at one of the most famous classic thrillers of all time – Night of the Hunter. Night of the Hunter is the first and only film directed by Chris Laughton. The film is based on a novel by the same name. It stars Robert Mitchum and Shelley Winters. Even though this film premiered in 1955, it is still revered as one of the most thrilling and wellcrafted films ever made.
The two child actors in this film are superb. The boy is most exceptional in my opinion. John is played by Billy Chapin and was directly casted by the director of the film. His role as the older brother, who by default is now
I first saw this film as a young adult. My grandmother was adamant that I watch truly great movies. Once she showed me this masterpiece, I made it a point to share it with others. Even though this is an older film, the settings and music scores are fantastic. This isn’t a religious film in any sense, yet the use of a simple hymn Leaning on the Everlasting Arms will send chills down your spine when sung by Harry Powell. If you’re a fan of classic films and have missed this gem, I highly recommend that you see it. So go ahead, put yourself in the mood for Halloween! THE AUTHOR Natale is an English teacher in Mokpo. She is from Memphis, Tennessee, in the United States. She attended college in Jonesboro, Arkansas, and majored in criminology and sociology. In her free time, she enjoys watching scary movies and writing short stories. Her favorite movies are To Kill a Mockingbird, E.T., and Memento. Her heroes are Snoopy and Audrey Hepburn.
October 2017
The children’s mother, played by Shelley Winters, comes home just in time to see her husband taken into custody. It is revealed that Winters’ character liked to live a somewhat
This film has been hailed by critics and other well-known directors for more than fifty years and holds one of the highest rankings on Rotten Tomatoes. Shockingly, the film wasn’t originally a success when it debuted, being met with harsh responses. The film’s director was so broken-hearted after receiving the poor reviews, he never directed again. Over time, word-of-mouth helped the popularity of the movie increase. Film-makers, such as David Linch, known for Blue Velvet, have taken inspiration from the film. Rev. Harry Powell holds the number 29 spot as one of films most feared villains.
the protector and man of the family, does his utmost to protect his sister. Though the little girl seems whiny to most, I think she does a good job playing a pampered, yet innocent, child who tries to find a father-figure in Harry Powell. The psychological cat-and-mouse aspect of this movie will have you on your toes.
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The movie opens with Reverend Harry Powell riding off on a horse after he had just committed a murder. In a short monologue, Harry reveals his hatred for people who live a life of ill repute. On both hands, his knuckles are tattooed. One spells out “H-A-T-E” and the other spells out “L-O-V-E.” Across town, we see a man fleeing from the police. He is carrying a bag full of money that he stole from a local bank. During the crime, a man was murdered as well. He approaches his two children, John and Pearl, and stashes the money in an unknown location. The two children are the only two characters, apart from their father, who know where the money is hidden. In front of the children, the father is wrestled to the ground, cuffed, and carted off to jail.
lavish lifestyle, which her bluecollar husband had a difficult time maintaining. Since the father had murdered a man during the robbery, he is sentenced to death at his trial, and out of pure coincidence, his cellmate turns out to be Harry Powell. It is a rumor throughout the jail that money had been hidden, and Powell, after his cellmate’s death, decides to locate the man’s family. After finding the family, he manipulates Winters to fall for him, marries her, and assumes the role of the children’s stepfather. He attempts to strong-arm the children into giving up the location, but I want you to see film, so I won’t spoil it.
46 Gwangju Writes
Grandma Ava Written by Stephen Schelling Photographed by Jeremy Wong
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October 2017
ARTS & CULTURE
“I
t’s Ava!” Grandma Ava practically yelled. “‘A’ as in say, not ‘A’ as in apple. How come you never figured that out?”
“I know, Grandma Ay-va,” Dennis said, stressing the first syllable in her name. “I said your name correctly. You just don’t have your hearing aids in.” “I don’t like those dang hearing aids. They don’t work!” Dennis put his head in his hand and sighed, exasperated. He was sitting down in his usual spot and was leaning on the dining room table. Grandma Ava sat to his left in her usual spot – on the end of the cramped, four-person table they had bought from Walmart. When she had first come to live with Dennis, he had sat her across from him so they would have more room, but, like in every other matter over the past four years, she had insisted on doing everything her way. Her presence was wearing on Dennis, and it had been for some time. The whole situation had come to a tipping point six days earlier, when Grandma Ava had made a mess in her bed and had claimed Dennis had come in the middle of night and done the deed himself. He couldn’t believe it. He had taken her in when she couldn’t take care of herself anymore. He had given her a roof. He had fed her. Kept her out of one of those god-forsaken nursing homes. He had saved her. And she hated him for it. He knew he couldn’t take care of her on his own any longer. He had already made the decision – just hadn’t told her yet, until he could work up the nerve. “Why don’t you have a wife yet?”
serious. I speak the brutal, honest truth.” Dennis shook his head in disbelief. “How…how do you think my love life is, Grandma? I’m in my late thirties. I work retail in an outlet mall. My grandmother lives with me.” (He tapped his finger on the table on that last one to stress the point.) “It’s not so good when you got a stinky geriatric living with you, Grandma Ava. How’s that for some brutal, honest truth?” He looked away angrily. He felt a little ashamed, but he turned back anyhow. It was good that he was telling her how he felt. She always told him no matter how much it hurt his feelings. Why shouldn’t he do the same with her? Besides, she was going to hate him even more after he told her his decision. He might as well get that train started. “Why do you smell so bad?” he asked with vindication. She laughed. “It ain’t my fault! That’s what happens when you leave leftovers out in the heat. They get spoilt.” “It’s pronounced spoiled, Grandma.” Dennis shook his head again. He didn’t know whether to laugh or cry. “And how comes I have this hole in my neck?” she asked in honest bewilderment, like she was just noticing the wound for the first time.
“Are…are you serious? Why don’t I have a wife?”
Dennis’s eyes bulged. He held up both hands in consternation. “You smoked for 74 of your 84 years, Grandma Ava! What did you expect?” He pointed at her neck. “This is your own fault. You did this to yourself. You brought this on yourself.” He crossed his arms. He felt justified, like a judge sentencing a criminal for their crimes.
“Yes, of course I’m serious,” she replied. “I’m always
Grandma Ava appeared unfazed and disinterested. “You
Dennis brought his hand down from his head and looked at his grandmother in astonishment.
Book Review
47
know you was a mistake,” she said derisively, grinning wickedly. “It’s good your momma was locked up for her mental problems. It’s good that she kilt herself. She was a mistake, too. It’s just a shame she didn’t do it before you was born.” Dennis banged his fist on the table. Grandma Ava shifted slightly. Dennis had never done anything violent like that before. He realized this but decided to continue on down the tracks. This train had started rolling, and there was no stopping it now. The blood was rising in his cheeks. He stood up, the anger boiling. He felt dizzy, but just like being motion sick on a train, he knew he had to ride this out. He pointed his finger at her and violently jabbed it in her direction with each word he said. “You listen here, you old hag! I have sacrificed so much to bring you into my home and take care of you. If you think – no, you shut up! Don’t interrupt me. Let me finish!” He banged his other fist on the table and nearly winced at the pain, being careful to not show it on his face. A mask of anger and fury had overtaken his features. “I’ve had it! I’ve had it with you, Grandma Ava. It’s too much for me to keep living like this.” Dennis calmed down as his adrenaline peaked and began to ebb. He inhaled deeply and sat back down, regaining his composure. “I’m sorry, Grandma Ava, but I just can’t do this. You have to go. That’s just how it is. I know you’ll hate me for it, but I have no other options.”
Dennis shook his head again. He knew he would hate himself for it, but Grandma Ava just had to go, and that was the brutal, honest truth.
Author quotations are from an interview with America Abroad Media, found on YouTube.
S
o, I get home from work, hurl my backpack onto the bed, tear it open, plunge my hand in, grope around in the mélange of papers, computer hardware, and gym clothes, and . . . No! It’s not in there! I left my book at work! This really happened. And worse, I was on page 425 of this 443-page book, and I still had no clue as to how it would end. It’s been a while since I’ve read a page-turner like The Orphan Master’s Son, but now the drought is over. Adam Johnson weaves a spellbinding story that harkens back to visionary dystopian works like Orwell’s 1984 and Huxley’s Brave New World. The difference here is that Johnson’s totalitarian state is that of modern-day North Korea, which brings the whole experience closer to your world reality (especially if you live in South Korea). Now, as you start your journey with the protagonist, Jun Do, you must keep in mind that the plot and characters are “a work of the imagination.” (Although Johnson completed “a tremendous amount of research” during the writing.) The third-person subjective narrative details Jun Do’s life in rural North Korea, growing up in an orphanage. Johnson uses this plot device to align you with the particularly pitiable fate of orphans in the real-world Democratic People’s Republic of Korea. He effectively calls your attention to real-world calamities in North Korea throughout the novel. “[Many] details in the book are factbased,” culled from Johnson’s investigations, defectors’ testimonies, and a one-week visit to the Hermit Kingdom.
October 2017
THE AUTHOR Stephen Schelling is a writer and teacher, a pickler, and an Eagle Scout from America with a B.A. in journalism from Marshall University.
Written by Douglas Baumwoll
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
Grandma Ava didn’t react. She couldn’t. Her glassy eyes stared back at Dennis. Her mouth was agape, but she said nothing. Her dead body sat motionless in her dinner chair where Dennis had left her six days before after jamming the kitchen knife into her neck. Dried blood covered her neck and blouse. It was all over her side of the table. It had dripped into a puddle on the floor and had splattered against the wall. Her putrefied stench filled the apartment.
The Orphan Master’s Son
48 The narrative next follows Jun Do’s life in the military. Jun Do is dutiful and commits immoral acts against other human beings, but Johnson manages to get you to understand Jun Do rather than condemn him – no small feat of the writing craft. Perhaps part of this achievement is due to the main character’s name: Jun Do. This name invokes in the English-language reader the concept of “John Doe,” meaning the grievous journey you live through with him could be that of any boy in the fictional or real North Korea. You empathize with him throughout, and feel his dismay when he is unable to defect when he has the chance. For if he does, all of his friends and coworkers would be sent to prison camps to labor as slaves and die within a few years. Part Two of the book begins with a new, first-person narrative voice of an intelligence officer. You now learn about the lives and motivations of Pyongyang’s power elite, as well as those of the Dear Leader, Kim Jung Il. You experience his propaganda machine through a third narrative voice, that of “the loudspeaker,” which bellows absurdities from which no one is spared, not even when inside an apartment building.
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October 2017
Johnson incorporates many aspects of Joseph Campbell’s “hero’s journey,” and Jun Do undergoes major transformation. At this point in the story, he entertains no fear of pain or death and is therefore immune to the state’s controlling influence. He finds love for Sun Moon, the country’s only actress, whose role promotes a fablelike devotion to the Dear Leader and Juche, the state’s philosophy of “self-reliance.” Jun Do’s love for this woman and her two children motivates him to live in a complex society where the challenge is, according to Johnson, “to retain your humanity, without losing the survival game.” The final main character I will mention is the Dear Leader himself, Kim Jong Il. Johnson has been criticized for including this character, and surmising about the real Kim’s motivations. Yet, Johnson says that because one man literally wrote the script for an entire nation, a nation where “spontaneity can’t exist, where revealing yourself, and your true inner thoughts . . . might have grave consequences,” he was forced to include Kim in the story. “The difference between fiction and nonfiction is that fiction must be believable. And a lot of the nonfiction of North Korea is not believable,” says Johnson. So he tries to humanize a globally vilified leader, showing his vulnerability, strengths, weaknesses, and intelligence. The climactic scene, almost on the last page, has a slight slapstick feel to it, and I am not sure it is 100% believable, but it did not detract from my appreciation of the story and perhaps adds a slight comical element to a novel rife with heavy issues pertaining to the human condition and
authoritarian government behaviors.
The Orphan Master’s Son won the Pulitzer Prize for Fiction in 2013. Despite a few possible shortcomings, you should read this book. If you live here in South Korea, you will realize that some prevailing cultural attitudes exist in both North and South Korea alike. You will learn factual information that may inspire you to learn a bit more online. I am reminded of Khaled Hosseini’s books or Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s Half of a Yellow Sun, which, despite being fiction, educated me about the calamitous lives many led in Afghanistan and Nigeria. Johnson’s descriptive language is elegant and at times poetic, and the characters’ direct speech is loose and informal, and absolutely contemporary. His philosophical insights into the human condition are incisive and force you to consider not only life in North Korea, but in all countries. He has stated that “one of the questions of the novel is what does it mean to survive when you have nothing to live for?” And this is something we must all consider, to some degree, wherever you are from or wherever you live. In addition, I found myself constantly considering absurdity and truthdenying policies of the ultra-conservative government currently in power in my own country, the United States. Where does the U.S. currently stand on the slippery slope down into totalitarianism, oppression, and denial of human rights? Clearly, the United States is no North Korea, but at least a dozen times in the story, I found myself relating scenes I was reading to actual happenings and people in the real world. At one point, Jun Do thinks about “reminding the Dear Leader that they lived in a land where people had been trained to accept any reality presented to them . . . how questioning reality . . . simply noticing that realities had changed” could lead to dangerous ends. Alas, it seems Jun Do’s imaginary North Korea shares at least some similarity with my own real-world home country. Does it share any with yours? For further information on the reality in North Korea, check out the stories of Lee Hyeon-seo, Joseph Kim, Shin Dong-hyuk, and Park Yeon-mi. All have written books and appear in multiple videos online. THE AUTHOR
Doug Baumwoll, a professional writer and editor for 25 years, trains in-service teachers in writing skills and methodology. His personal writing interests include visionary and speculative fiction, climate change, energy, and social justice. He is the founder of SavetheHumanz.com.
49 Survival Korean includes the most essential Korean phrases you need to know while traveling or living in Korea. The expressions come with detailed explanations as well as fun and useful information about the situations in which they are used.
Talk to Me In Korean
Pharmacy
Talk To Me In Korean and Seoulistic are proud to present to you
Survival Korean! Make your stay in Korea much easier and enjoy it to the fullest with Survival Korean!
Whether you are just traveling or living in Korea, this book, the perfect size that can fit right in your purse, will come in handy whenever you want something.
Medicine in Korea is often distributed in packets that are meant for (number of days) + -치 daily consumption, making it easy for patients to remember exactly how [(number of days) + -chi] (number of) days’ worth of much to take. For example, one packet per day or one packet after each meal. medicine
약을 먹다 [ya-geul meok-tta] to take medicine 약을 드시다 [ya-geul deu-sida] to take medicine (polite)
The word 먹다 [meok-tta] in this phrase means literally “to eat.” The respectful way to say “to eat” is 드시다 [deu-si-da]. This Korean phrase often uses both forms of verbs, depending on the relationship between the speakers.
식후 [si-ku] post meal 접수 [jeop-ssu] reception
식후 is common in medication instructions from a pharmacist.
EDUCATION
Sample Sentences 이틀 치 [i-teul chi] = two days’ worth (of medicine) 삼일 치 [sa-mil chi] = three days’ worth (of medicine)
Sample Sentence: 식후 30분 후에 드세요. [si-ku sam-sip-ppun hu-e deu-se-yo.] = Please take the medicine 30 minutes after eating.
Also, some medicines come in multiple forms and can be requested at pharmacies: 알약 [al-lyak] pill, tablet 가루약 [ga-ru-yak] powdered medicine 물약 [mul-lyak] liquid medication 연고 [yeon-go] ointment 밴드 [baen-deu] : adhesive bandage Although most people are addressed by job title in Korea, this is not the case for pharmacists. Instead of their job title, 약사 [yak-ssa], the more general 저기 요 [jeo-gi-yo], which means “excuse me,” is usually used because the pharmacist is usually already there at the counter.
This book extract from Survival Korean is available at MyKoreanStore.com
October 2017
약사 [yak-ssa] pharmacist
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Here are some common medicines that can be obtained from pharmacies without prescriptions: 감기약 [gam-gi-yak] cold medicine 해열제 [hae-yeol-jje] fever reducer 진통제 [jin-tong-je] painkiller (analgesic)
50 KOTESOL
Korea’s Early English Education Policy for the New Millennium Written and photographed by Dr. David Shaffer
EDUCATION
W
hat changes did the advent of the new millennium have on English education polices in Korea? What effect have they had? Where is the “English divide,” and where in the world can one find a “goose daddy”? Find the answers to these questions in what follows.
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October 2017
As was the case elsewhere, the approach of “Y2K,” as the year 2000 was called, and a whole new millennium had young and old in Korea thinking big, thinking new, thinking change, thinking innovation. This was as true in the field of education as anywhere, and even more so for English education. The 7th National Curriculum was introduced in December of 1997, and it was to be applied to two grade levels each year, beginning with elementary grades 1 and 2, and working up. Conspicuous in this new curriculum was that, for the first time, the general curriculum was to be competence-based, student levelbased, and centered on the students. Making more buzz than this new national curriculum, however, was a provision of the 6th English Curriculum that was kicking in in 1998: elementary school English education. The program was to begin with third-graders and begin at the next higher grade level each year through grade 6. This meant
that 1998 third-graders would get four years of elementary English, while the 1997 third-graders would be the last to have none. The buzz came from three major directions: (a) those who thought early English was needed preparation for the 21st century, (b) those who espoused the myth that learning a foreign language early would confuse children and be detrimental to the learning of their first language, and (c) those who believed that elementary school teachers had not been trained well enough to teach young learner English. The jury is still out on the first concern. There are so many variables involved: teachers’ proficiency, teaching methods, frequency of instruction, home support, to name a few. However, one thing that is known is that English learning is less cost-effective in the early years than beginning later. There is absolutely no truth to the second concern: that learning a second language in elementary school would hamper first-language development. Any second-language acquisition expert worth their salt can tell you this. The third concern, that of teacher preparation, proved to be a legitimate one. From the beginning, elementary school teachers had contended that they had not received the necessary training, pre-service or in-service, to teach young learner English. Their
cries, however, were not heeded, and the program began as originally scheduled. For me, the proof of the effectiveness of early English, I thought, would come ten years later. The students entering university in 2008 had four more years of public school English education than the 2007 entrants. How much difference in their English proficiency did those four extra years of elementary school English make in my English majors entering in 2008? I could discern none. Surprised I was. I had expected to be able to at least detect more fluency, if not more accuracy. Did this mean that Korea’s experiment with public school early English had flopped? Well, over the next five years or so, I was able to detect an increase in incoming university student English proficiency that was greater than before. What was happening? As the early English program got started, the government began in earnest in-service English training for elementary school teachers, not just at their own training centers but also at universities, where centers were set up for this purpose. The efforts paid off. Though belated, the inservice English training can be said to be at least partially responsible for university students’ increased English proficiency upon entering university. In the end, it seems that the early
51 GWANGJU-JEONNAM KOTESOL MONTHLY MEETING Date: October 28 (4th Saturday) Place: Gwangju National University of Education SwapShop Hour – Share with the group an activity or teaching idea that you have: (a) Halloweenthemed, (b) an international conference take-away, or (c) general. For full event details: Website: koreatesol.org/gwangju Facebook: Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL ▲ Teaching a group of fifth-graders at one of Gwangju’s English centers.
This issue of rapidly rising household expenses for private education was to plague the first several administrations of the new millennium. Along with the appointment of administrators who knew more about politics than about education or English teaching, administrations struggled in the area of education policy. (As an aside, one newly appointed minister of education defended his qualifications for the position by declaring that he
had a daughter in college!) But the millennium was still young. It would bring new ideas to English education in Korea: some success stories, such as EPIK and TaLK; some not so much so (remember National English Ability Test (NEAT)?). [More on these and other recent developments in English education in Korea in a coming issue.] THE AUTHOR David E. Shaffer is Vice-President of the GwangjuJeonnam Chapter of Korea TESOL (KOTESOL). On behalf of the Chapter, he invites you to participate in the teacher development workshops at their monthly meetings (always on a Saturday). For many years, Dr. Shaffer has been a professor of English Language at Chosun University, where he has taught graduate and undergraduate courses. He is a long-time member of KOTESOL and a holder of various KOTESOL positions, including First Vice-President and Publications Committee Chair. Dr. Shaffer credits KOTESOL for much of his professional development in English language teaching. He has also contributed to the Gwangju News since 2011 and is now its editor-in-chief.
October 2017
The rising private education expenses for English, though technically voluntary, were societal mandates, and parents would make every effort to keep up with their neighbors. The realization that the world was globalizing with English as a lingua franca, and like it or not, that Korea was part of it, put extra pressure on families to provide their children with quality English training, and thus the demarcation between the
haves and the have-nots became clearer. Families who could afford it sought out not only native-speaking teachers for their young children but sought English-speaking environments for them to live and study in. With North American English being the preferred variety among Koreans, many families with young children became divided as the mother went to a location in Canada or the U.S. with her children for them to study abroad. This left the father behind in Korea to work and provide for his overseas family. These live-alone fathers became known as gireogi-appa (기러기 아빠, literally “wild goose father,” but I prefer “goose daddies”). This phenomenon magnifies the importance Koreans place on education for their children.
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English education policy has been a great success – but only if you omit consideration of the huge sideeffects that it generated. Parents had regularly sent their children to English hagwons (학원, private academies) for a year or two before they entered middle school in order to prepare them to start studying English in school. Now that English was beginning in grade 3 of elementary school, first- and secondgraders were learning English at hagwons. This put an extra four years of strain on the purse-strings of those households who could afford this additional expense on top of the already-burdensome private education expenses many families were experiencing. The so-called “English divide” was widening, if not gaping.
52 Expat Living
COMMUNITY
Apps in Your Hands Written by the Karina Prananto
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
October 2017
K
orea’s technology has advanced so much, to the delight of all of us. With a variety of choices and options, we are spoiled with endless possibilities. As we always have our smartphone by our sides, they have become almost like a lifeline for us. From merely shopping, to games, to banking, all are just a few clicks away. Still, we need to be wise in selecting the right apps to use. We at Gwangju News have compiled and categorized the apps that we think you might find most useful. Messenging: No further details needed, without a doubt, Kakao Talk takes first place among messaging applications in Korea. Almost everyone with a smartphone will have this program installed, and it has an English version, too. This application is very useful to communicate with your Korean friends and colleagues. With this app you can also send gift icons as well as shop and make friends with your favorite brand stores through Kakao Plus Friends.
Transportation: Although apps for Gwangju transportation are very limited, you can still use the nationwide transportation applications. Those that are recommended are Kakao Subway (select Gwangju as your base city, and you can check the train schedule and the ride duration, with English capabilities) and Kakao Taxi, whose drivers can be hailed from any taxi company, and they have to be registered through Kakao. Their information (which includes a photo, a car number, and a departure time) notifies the passenger, and you can send the taxi information to your friends or family for additional security. It is a good app for international residents to use as we can set the destination in advance, preventing miscommunication. Meanwhile, Gwangju Bus (광주버스) is probably the most used app by both Koreans and international residents for local bus schedules. You can set up your departure and arrival stations, and save your favorite bus stops. For express buses, we recommend using Gosok Bus Mobile (고속버스 모바일). You can reserve bus tickets to and from Gwangju using this app, and you can even check the departure and arrival schedule of buses coming from other cities as well (very useful when your friends ask you to pick them up at the bus terminal!). If you are driving, we recommend using One Navi (원내비), a collaboration app between KT and LG, and we find it to be very responsive (very useful if you suddenly go the wrong way!). For location and maps, nothing beats Daum Map and Naver Map! Weather: Worrying whether or not you should do your laundry today or want to find out the dust volume that is expected outside? Although the weather application pre-installed in your phone is good enough, Wonginalssi (원기날씨, Wongi Weather) or KWeather are recommended apps as they provide better details on an hourly and weekly basis, by cities and even by neighborhoods (dongs). Shopping: Now, where should we even begin? With so many shopping apps available, we are absolutely spoiled. Danawa (다나와) compiles information from various online shopping sites, enabling you to compare prices and find the cheapest prices on the same item. After you have purchased an item and would like to track the shipping, you can use the Smart-taekbae ( 스마트택배, “smart” courier service) application, which can track all shipping requests from various kinds of parcel companies. Dining: Feeling hungry, yet too lazy to go out or cook? Use the food delivery apps to avoid the hassle of calling a restaurant! Yogiyo (요기요), currently in fashion even with the international community, is probably the most used food delivery app. Set your house address, and the application will search for all nearby food types that match your preference. You can pay by using a credit card or in cash when the food arrives. Another food application is Baedal-tong (배달통, delivery box), which has the same features; however, personally, we find Yogiyo to be easier to use. Language and Education: Wondering what that Korean word means in English? We find Naver Dictionary (네이버 사전) to be the most extensive program, with more than 30 languages available and with a translation feature collaborating with Papago. We recommend that you try several applications with similar features to compare their performance. Please note that only a few of these apps have English versions, so basic Korean or at least the ability to read Hangeul helps a lot to fully use the Korean version. Just do not forget to update your apps occasionally, and have fun!
Opinion
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Extreme but Real Dangers to Consider While Traveling Written by Matt Furlane Photographed courtesy of Izzy Gerosa
OPINION
E
In an ideal world, you could simply take life at face value and not have any doubts, but the real world is different. “Excuse me, can you carry this for me, my hands are full,” “Pardon me, can you watch my luggage while I use the toilet?” and “I need your help!” could all be signals of potential entrapment. It could be a woman with a baby or an elderly man seeking help; it doesn’t matter. The best option in such situations is to walk away or politely point people in the direction they should go for whatever need they apparently think you, a complete stranger, can help them with. The last thing you want on your vacation is to be found holding ten kilos of heroin or have your photo taken by law enforcement with a criminal you have never met.
October 2017
First, watch for scams and entrapment. It’s one thing to get suckered into a tourist trap and spend too much money on worthless trinkets, but it’s another to be taken in by scams that cost thousands of dollars. For example, when I traveled to Shanghai, I was approached by an Asian man and woman who spoke really good English and wanted to know if I was interested in going to the nearby “tea festival.” I was in a crowded park and initially took them at their word. Why be paranoid? After about ten minutes, I realized that we were moving further away from the public area and the “tea festival” was not anywhere “nearby.” I
politely informed the couple that I needed to go back to my hotel and would come back tomorrow. The woman was persistent, but I couldn’t see any tea festival, so I left. Later, I searched on the Internet and found a whole list of complaints by Western tourists in China about the infamous “tea” scams, where unwitting travelers are duped into spending hundreds of dollars on cheap tea (giving new meaning to the term “Shanghai-ed”). The lesson from the story is to always be skeptical, stay near public spaces, and do online research about each city or country you’re visiting.
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very year, millions of people travel for vacation, to conduct business, to learn about another culture, and for various other reasons. According to the Aviation Safety Network, 2016 was the second safest year on record for the airline industry, and over 3.5 billion people safely arrived at their destinations. With the number of new airports increasing every year, the number of people traveling will continue to go up, but with more travel comes a greater need to be aware of potential dangers and the importance of taking precautions to ensure a safe trip abroad. In addition to doing basic things like properly researching your destination, leaving valuables at home, securing your passport, locking your luggage, and traveling in a group, there are still other steps to take when going abroad.
54 You may remember hearing about Otto Warmbier, the American young man who was sent home from North Korea in a coma earlier this year. Many believe that Warmbier had been framed for stealing a propaganda sign in order that officials would have reason for his arrest. You can see similar entrapment schemes in South Korea, where foreigners are targeted with offers for prostitution, drugs, simply teaching English on the side, or maybe even something more sinister. For more information about scams, I recommend visiting travelscams.org. The second thing a traveler should always be aware of is terrorist threats. Although you probably have a greater chance of being hit by lightning or being in an automobile accident, terrorism is still a real threat. In 2017 alone, there have been several major terror attacks in Europe that have involved everything from knives to vehicles. I strongly recommend websites like Interpol.int and travel.state.gov for the latest information about terrorism worldwide. In the past, maybe you could carelessly backpack across Asia or Europe, going anywhere you wanted, whenever you wanted, but those days may be over. So what should you do to prevent yourself from becoming mixed up in terrorism dangers? For starters, if threat levels are high in the country you want to visit, then simply choose another destination. If you do decide to travel to a threat location, then be aware that certain areas are more likely to be potential targets, areas such as open-air markets, theaters, and especially night clubs that attract international tourists. You might not view yourself as a target, but criminal elements do, so be aware of your surroundings.
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October 2017
The third thing to watch out for when traveling is knock-out drugs and poison. This past February, Kim Jong Un’s half-brother, Kim Jong Nam, was poisoned by two women with a powerful nerve agent at an airport in Malaysia. It was in broad daylight. Although the circumstances were rare, the fact that it happened means others may try it also. It’s not uncommon to hear about Western travelers being found unconscious in a pool or mysteriously dead in their hotel rooms. This past July, several tourists in Mexico were poisoned, and the U.S. State Department has issued warnings about the danger of tainted alcohol. In Thailand, tourist deaths can reach as high as 80 per year. Everyone’s circumstances vary, but all tourist deaths are something to take note of. For each person, unfortunately, there is a unique threat. Female tourists are sometimes the primary target, but male tourists should also be watchful. Maybe the local crime syndicate wants you to gamble a little longer, or the corrupt local police are running a prostitution ring and your drink is spiked with a highgrade aphrodisiac. Stranger things have happened. My purpose for writing about these topics is not to scare people, but to draw awareness to the reality of the world that is out there. Whether it’s criminal syndicates or corrupt law enforcement, people need to take the necessary steps to travel safely. The majority of crimes can be avoided by traveling in groups, researching your place of travel on the Internet, and just using plain common sense in order to travel safe and travel smart.
North Korea Crying Wolf: Is It for Real This Time?
Written by Kim Dong-hun (8ball)
I
know this is a serious topic, but I want to start my article with a funny story.
Sirens blared during the civil defense drill. Without any knowledge of this unexpected event, one foreigner freaked out and asked a Korean passerby what was going on. Watching him panic, the guy tried to calm him down by saying, “Whoa, whoa!” [meaning “calm down”] but [understood as “war, war”!] this only further terrified the foreigner. As mentioned above, in Korea, it is common and normal to hear sirens blaring occasionally, and see jet fighters and military helicopters flying nearby. If you are new to this, however, you may find it shocking. With the news regarding North Korea making headlines, if you are an expatriate in Korea, you must be bombarded with tons of phone calls or emails from your friends and family who are deeply concerned about your safety for fear of North Korea going on a rampage and seemingly going to the extremes. You might wonder if the current situation will be exacerbated and whether you should stay longer in Korea or leave as soon as possible. Honestly, I have been frequently asked by many foreigners about the possibility of a second Korean War. Therefore, I decided to discuss the longstanding North Korean crises from the perspective of a typical Korean citizen who has lived here for over three decades and completed the 26-month mandatory military service.
55 Since I was little, I have been taught in school and even in the military that North Korea is our sworn enemy. North Koreans were often described to me as animal-like – even being portrayed as horned creatures in the cartoon movies of my childhood. Back then, I believed they were demons. Negative images of North Korea and its leader have been ridiculously expressed and exaggerated in some movies such as Team America: World Police and The Interview.
North Korea is a reclusive rogue state, heavily dependent on China, its only ally and major trading partner. However, with China and Russia joining the UN’s sanctions against North Korea, the U.S. is playing a pivotal role in ratcheting up pressure on North Korea. By possessing nuclear weapons capable of attacking the U.S., North Korea will have leverage to better negotiate with the U.S. For this reason, North Korea talks tough, playing chicken, which is deemed irrational and reckless by the rest of the world.
Now the Moon Jae-in administration is trying to improve the impaired relations with North Korea, but Kim Jong Un’s regime appears to be reluctant to seek peaceful solutions. Despite tougher UN sanctions and U.S. President Donald Trump’s harsh rhetoric towards North Korea, the regime’s leader doesn’t seem to care at all. North Korea has threatened attacks on Guam or possibly the U.S. mainland while attempting to further their nuclear weapons program. Some conservative politicians say it is quite imperative to arm ourselves with tactical nuclear weapons while the wartime operational control has not yet been transferred to the South Korean government. Whenever North Korea poses a threat, many Korean newspapers and TV news broadcasters speak as if war is imminent, which instills fear, chaos, and confusion among the people. Under these circumstances and mounting pressure on the Korean Peninsula, is it probable that North Korea will eventually attack South Korea in the foreseeable future, following through with its continuous threats to “turn Seoul into a sea of fire”? In retrospect, there were a few close-call moments that could possibly have lead to war. However, war has not occurred so far and tension still remains. So, why does North Korea constantly threaten others with their ongoing nuclear weapons program? Is
Nobody wants war, and we know from history the dire consequences if another war breaks out on the Korean Peninsula. Millions of civilians were killed and wounded during the Korean War when conventional weapons were used, and the Peninsula was less populated at that time. Amid this never-ending muscle-flexing and bellicose rhetoric, fighting fire with fire is not a viable option. It will only heighten tensions between the concerned parties. While we still have the chance, we should keep trying to bring North Korea back to the negotiation table and attempt to solve problems through dialogue. THE AUTHOR
Kim Dong-hun (8ball) is a free spirit working at the GIC. His major hobby is visiting different countries in the world and of all the 30-ish countries he has visited so far, his favorite country is Taiwan.
As is always true of our Op-Ed pieces, the opinions expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Gwangju News, the GIC, or the Gwangju city government. — Eds.
October 2017
Despite the Kim Dae-jung administration’s “Sunshine Policy” and the inter-Korean summit held twice in recent years (in 2000 and 2007), which helped soften the attitude towards North Korea, the relations between the two Koreas have gradually deteriorated. This is due in part to our two former presidents, Mr. Lee and Ms. Park, cutting ties with North Korea by suspending a communication channel between the two countries. This shut down the Kaesong Industrial Complex
North Korea has also continued its provocations, including the Yeonpyeong Skirmish at sea in 2002, the first announcement of the possession of nuclear weapons in 2005, six nuclear tests and numerous missile launches, the death of a South Korean tourist in North Korea in 2008, the sinking of the Cheonan Warship, the bombardment of Yeonpyeong Island in 2010, and various cyber-attacks.
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Since the Korean War ended in July 1953, South Korea has been constantly met with numerous threats and attacks from North Korea. Thousands of North Korean spies have infiltrated South Korea to date. In 1983, the Rangoon bombing in Myanmar was carried out in an attempt to assassinate former South Korean President Chun Doo-hwan. In 1987, a bomb planted on Korean Air Flight 858 was detonated and the passenger liner blown to pieces in mid-air.
North Korea just bluffing? Is its bark truly worse than its bite?
OPINION
Some people still claim that North Korea was involved in the May 18 Democratization Movement in 1980 by sending spies and instigating a rebellion, but this is not true at all. Those who voiced opinions against the government or ruling party were branded as “commies” or pro-communist. Thus, there has been a huge chasm of bigotry and misunderstanding between South and North for over half a century.
in 2016 at which time loudspeaker propaganda broadcasts also resumed.
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Community Board Have something you want to share with the community? Gwangju News Community Board provides a space for the community to announce club activities and special events. Please contact gwangjunews@gic.or.kr for more information.
UNESCO KONA VOLUNTEERS KONA Storybook Center (KSC) is a registered small public library supported by UNESCO KONA Volunteers (UKV). UKV is a registered organization that helps disadvantaged children to learn English independently through storybooks and story-maps. We guide the family and children to develop a love of reading storybooks in English. We also give guidance to volunteers in using storybooks. We are looking for long-term volunteers who desire to enrich their lives. We are asking volunteers to commit to helping at least once a month. For more information, please visit http://cafe.daum. net/konavolunteers or our Facebook pages for KONA Storybook Center and UNESCO KONA Volunteers, or contact Kim Young-Im 062-434-9887, or email konacenter@gmail.com.
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October 2017
GWANGJU FILIPINO ENGLISH TEACHERS (GFET) Every 3rd Tuesday of the month 10 am – 12 noon, GIC, Room 3 (2F) We are a group of Filipino English teachers in Gwangju who conduct regular accent training and lectures to help fellow English teachers to become better educators. GWANGJU INTER FC The Gwangju International Soccer Team (Gwangju Inter FC) plays regularly every weekend. If you are interested in playing, email gwangju_soccer@yahoo.com or search “Gwangju Inter FC” on Facebook. TUESDAY NIGHT YOGA GIC Hall, 1st Floor 7:00–8:00 pm, Tuesdays Facebook: Gwangju Yoga with Emily This is a weekly class appropriate for all levels. Beginners and advanced practitioners alike are encouraged to join. GWANGJU ANIMAL SHELTER VOLUNTEERING Every Sunday. Meet at The First Alleyway at 12 for brunch and carpool to the shelter. Walk dogs between 1–4 pm. Please wear comfortable clothing. See you there! Facebook: Gwangju Animal Shelter Volunteering
VOLUNTEER TEACHERS NEEDED for the Gwangju UCC (Universal Cultural Center). Any levels of experience, English teachers here in the Gwangju area during 2017 can participate. UCC has a Facebook profile if you would like to see what kind of other services are available. To participate in the international cultural exchange programs, you may email peter.j.gallo@gmail.com, or phone or text 010-9490-4258. GIC ZUMBA WITH THANDO GIC Hall, 1st Floor, GIC 7:00–8:00 pm, Thursdays Facebook: GIC Zumba with Thando Zumba is BACK at the GIC! This is a fun-filled cardio class that fits all levels, no experience needed. Come get the body back to where you want it and have fun while you are at it. Midweek fitness party. Dress comfortably and be ready to sweat. Also, bring along water and a towel.
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#402 Simsan Bldg, 342-13 Jisan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju Location: next to Gwangju District Court
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Tel: 062) 222-0011 Fax: 062)222-0013 duckheepark@hanmail.net
2017-09-26
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벼룩시장 Flea Market
장기자랑 Talent Show
세계음식체험전 Global Food Booth
세계문화체험전 Global Culture Booth
글로벌커뮤니티 Global Community
Gwangju I nternational Community Day 2017
2017. 10.29. 일 11~17시 아시아문화전당 5.18민주광장 Sunday, Oct 29 11a.m.~5p.m. ACC Democracy Plaza 주최 Host
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주관 Organizer
후원 Sponsor
협력 Cooperation
2017-09-26
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