[EN] Gwangju News June 2019 #208

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Gwangju and South Jeolla International Magazine I June 2019 #208 Lee Kyong-hee: Capturing the Essence of Korea

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Gwangju & South Jeolla Intern ational Magazine

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From the Editor

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he gateway to a new month is opening, and June is rushing in! Gwangju has been busy lately, and so has our staff at the Gwangju News – both of these attested to by this June issue carrying five feature articles! Through these, we bring you journalists, activists, politicians, community-builders, and history.

June 2019, Issue No. 208

Published: June 1, 2019 Cover Photo Lee Kyong-hee

Photograph by Ahn Hong-beom

THE EDITORIAL TEAM Publisher Editor-in-Chief Managing Editors Production Editor Layout Editor Photo Editor Proofreaders

Online Editorial Team Researchers

Dr. Shin Gyonggu Dr. David E. Shaffer Karina Prananto, William Urbanski Isaiah Winters Karina Prananto Sarah Pittman Joseph Nunez, Timothy Berg, Tara Kulash, Di Foster, David Foster, Elisabeth Loeck, Stephen Redeker, Dr. David E. Shaffer Karina Prananto, Shahed Kayes Baek Ji-yeon, Yoo Yeon-woo

The Gwangju News is the first English monthly magazine for the general public in Korea, first published in 2001. Each monthly issue covers local and regional issues, with a focus on the roles and activities of the international residents and local English-speaking communities. Copyright © 2019 by the Gwangju International Center. All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by this copyright may be reproduced in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise – without the written consent of the publisher.

Registration No. 광주광역시 라. 00145 (ISSN 2093-5315) Registration Date: February 22, 2010 Printed by Join Adcom 조인애드컴 (+82)-62-367-7702 For volunteering and article submission inquiries, please contact the editor at gwangjunews@gic.or.kr.

Special thanks to Gwangju City and all of our sponsors.

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May 18 is also the date of the annual awarding of the Gwangju Prize for Human Rights. This year the award went to Joanna K. Cariño, a lifelong crusader for indigenous people’s human rights in her home country of the Philippines. As our third feature, we have Cariño’s story just for you, and photos, too. Our fourth feature is about another annual event – this one as a tribute to a person who did much for communitybuilding in our Gwangju international community. Now that he has passed on, he is remembered each year on the first Saturday of June with an award given in his honor: the Michael Simning Community Builder Award. We have his story, and the story of the award, just for you. Our Blast from the Past feature for this issue again spotlights a historical event of the month: June 25 (6.25). Anyone familiar with Korea needs no more information to know what is being referred to: the Korean War and the date it began. We have the story, chock-full of facts you may not be aware of. And we have so much more for you in this issue – far too much to mention here. But here are a few teasers: the Choi mansion from the Japanese era, Daegaya and its ancient Gaya Confederation connection, century-old poetry, a new crossword, places to go, what to see, things to do… Turn the page to our full table of contents to see what more the Gwangju News has this month just for you. Enjoy.

David E. Shaffer Editor-in-Chief Gwangju News

June 2019

For advertising and subscription inquiries, please contact karina@gic.or.kr or 062-226-2733.

A bit more recently this spring, the Gwangju News dispatched a team to cover the memorial ceremony for the May 18 Uprising. Waiting in the light rain for the prime minister to arrive and for the ceremony to start, the entire gathering was surprised as in walked President Moon Jaein! We have the story and Gwangju News photos just for you.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

The Gwangju News is published by Gwangju International Center, Jungang-ro 196-beon-gil 5 (Geumnam-ro 3-ga), Dong-gu, Gwangju 61475, South Korea Tel: (+82)-62-226-2733~34 Fax: (+82)-62-226-2731 Website: www.gwangjunewsgic.com Email: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr GwangjuNews

Earlier this spring, I was notified that a colleague of sorts from decades past was in town on a tea-and-temple assignment for a magazine. She has written, translated, researched, and published materials on almost all aspects of Korea, past and present. Read our interview with her in our cover feature. You may know her as one-time editor-inchief of The Korea Herald, Lee Kyong-hee.

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Photo of the Month By Daria Chemeris

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his photo was taken near my house in Jinhae. After a few days of strong winds and rains, the sun finally came out to share its warmth with the

The Author

My name is Daria Chemeris. I am a photographer from Ukraine, but at present I am living together with my family in Korea.

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CONTENTS

JUNE 2019. Issue No. 208 MONTHLY NEWS 04. Gwangju City News 52. June 2019 Happenings 55. Community Board FEATURES 06. Capturing the Essence of Korea: Lee Kyong-hee 10. Skies Gray, Heaven Weeps: May 18 Memorial Ceremony 14. Joanna Cariño: Soldiering On in the Struggle for Indigenous People’s Rights 18. Remembering Mike: Gwangju Community Builder 20. Blast from the Past: The Korean War (6.25): How It Began

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May 18 Memorial Ceremony

COMMUNITY 22. Yangnim Travel Lounge: Art and History Fills Its Alleys TRAVEL 24. Lost in Gwangju: The Choi Mansion – Inside Korea’s Most Unusual Japanese-Era Hanok 28. Around Korea: Mystical Gaya – “A Museum Under the Sky” in Daegaya 30. From Abroad: A Singapore State of Mind SPORTS & OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 32. The Art of Beach Camping

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Yangnim Travel Lounge

FOOD & DRINKS 34. Abiko Curry 36. Kal-guksu: Knife-Cut Noodles

ARTS & CULTURE 02. Photo of the Month 41. Book Review: The Orenda by Joseph Boyden 42. Photo Essay: Mountain Azaleas – Heralding the Spring Transformation of the Korean Landscape 46. Gwangju Writes: The Ferryboat and the Traveler 48. Gwangju News Crossword Puzzle

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Mountain Azaleas

June 2019

OPINION 51. The State of Liberal Democracy: 39 Years After the Gwangju Democratic Uprising

24 The Choi Mansion

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EDUCATION 38. Korea TESOL: The Problems Facing EFL Teachers – Agony Uncle “Dr. Dave” Provides Some Solutions 40. Everyday Korean: Episode 18 – 해수욕장 The Beach

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Gwangju City News

MONTHLY NEWS

Reprinted with permission from Gwangju Metropolitan City Hall Photograph courtesy of Gwangju Metropolitan City Hall

Mayor Lee Yong-sub Meets Japanese Ambassador to Korea Nagamine Yasuma

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www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

wangju Mayor Lee Yong-sup met with Nagamine Yasuma, the Japanese ambassador to South Korea, on the afternoon of May 21 to discuss matters of mutual interest. During the meeting, Mayor Lee conveyed that Korea and Japan have long shared many exchanges in history due to the proximity of the two neighboring countries. In July, the 2019 FINA World Swimming Championships will take place in Gwangju, next year the Tokyo Olympics, and in 2021, the FINA World Swimming Championships will be held in Fukuoka. Mayor Lee expects many major athletes and swimmers from Japan to participate in the Gwangju event. Mayor Lee said that in July’s FINA event, athletes from many nations will participate, and in August, Masters swimmers will take part in the Masters Championships. He conveyed that he hopes that the Japanese government will help in encouraging as many Japanese athletes as possible to join both events.

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The ambassador also relayed his hope that the FINA World Swimming Championships in Gwangju will be very successful and that he will also request help from related organizations to bring in more Japanese athletes. He hoped that exchanges from these events will boost the relationship between Korea and Japan in terms of sports. In addition, Ambassador Nagamine said that since 2002 Gwangju has started many exchanges with Sendai City and that such exchanges continue to be strong. Especially during the 2011 Japan earthquake, Gwangju City visited to give fundraising money and goods to the needy citizens, and it really meant a lot. He expressed his thanks for this. Finally, the mayor said, “We hope to have substantial and active exchanges in various fields such as economy, culture, and youth between our two countries and our cities.”

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Gwangju’s Dongmyeong-dong to Become a Cultural Village

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cultural village masterplan briefing was held on May 20 at Gwangju City Hall. The plan aims to turn Dong-gu’s Dongmyeongdong into a cultural village where history, culture, and commerce harmonize. The once-prosperous area endured a slump as downtown population moved to outlying areas, but it opened a new chapter when cafés, restaurants, and cultural spaces began opening up by remodeling old structures. To ease inconveniences, the neighborhood will be divided into specialized food, accommodation, and arts zones. A new street will be built to enhance walking conditions, and walking tour programs linking the old city center’s history, people, and culture will soon be introduced.

Gwangju Names Representative Foods

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Mudeung-san’s Peak to Be Opened to Hikers with Reservations

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he Mudeung-san National Park Management Office has announced that it will set up a reservation system capping the maximum number of hikers allowed to access the mountain’s peak. The office explained that the decision is designed to preserve the ecosystem of the peak area. For the opening on May 11, only 7,000 hikers were permitted to climb up to the peak of the mountain. Pre-reservation for 5,000 spots are available online at http://reservation.knps.or.kr. Onsite reservations for 2,000 people are available at the Mokgyo and Jangbuljae entrances.

Unification Train Connects Gwangju’s Songjeong and Paju’s Dorasan Stations

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elebrating the first anniversary of the Panmunjom Declaration (April 27, 2018), Gwangsan Sharing Foundation and Korail Gwangju Headquarters together ran a train from Gwangju’s Songjeong Station to Paju’s Dorasan Station in northern Gyeonggi Province. The train, named “Unification Train,” departed from Songjeong Station at 7:30 a.m. and arrived at Dorasan Station at 1:00

Gwangju Ready to Host World’s Greatest Swimmers at FINA World Swimming Championships

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he 50-day countdown till the FINA World Aquatics Championships is set for Thursday, and Gwangju is gearing up to host the top international swimming stars. Under the slogan of “Dive into Peace,” the competition will run from July 12th to 28th. Unfortunately, for the 18th edition of the championships, local fans will miss South Korea’s own superstar swimmer Park Tae Hwan, an Olympic gold medalist and a twotime world champion, as he decided to not to take part in it. Still, there are many more domestic and overseas stars looking to compete in Gwangju. Kim Seo Yeong, the gold medalist in the women’s 200-meter individual medley (IM) and the silver medalist in the 400m IM at the 2018 Asian Games is gunning to break her own national record. In the 200m IM, Kim’s winning time of 2:08.34 was both the South Korean national record and the Asian Games competition record. Among international stars, one that may set a world record is American swimmer Katie Ledecky. Ledecky won three gold medals in the 400m, 800m and 1,500m freestyle in three consecutive world championships from 2013 to 2017. She holds the world records in all three events and will try to sweep these once again at an unprecedented fourth straight World Swimming Championships.

June 2019

Ranking by Category • Symbolism: Rice Balls > Mudeung-san Boiled Barley Rice > Songjeong-ri Grilled Short Rib Patties • Differentiation: Lettuce-wrapped Tempura > Mudeung-san Boiled Barley Rice > Duck Soup • Popu l a r i t y : L e t t u c e - w r ap p e d

According to the results, the selection committee has submitted the outcomes along with policy recommendations, and Gwangju Metropolitan City begins promotion of its branding policy for these representative foods starting this June. (Results ranked by votes from 100 people.)

p.m. Those on board took a brief tour around the Dorasan Observatory and conducted a forum on the unification of the Korean Peninsula. A Mugunghwa train was designated for the program and the participants were able to enjoy classes and cultural performances.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

he City of Gwangju announced that it has selected seven different kinds of food as representative of the city. The chosen items are Gwangju table d’hote, duck soup, rice balls, lettuce-wrapped tempura (상추튀김), pan-fried beef, Mudeung-san boiled barley rice, and Songjeong-ri grilled short-rib patties. Gwangju City selected one representative food from each of three categories with a view to intensively promoting them as future strategic dishes.

Tempura > Rice Balls > Mudeungsan Boiled Barley Rice

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www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

FEATURE

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Lee Kyong-hee (right) picking tea with Ven. Yeoyeon.

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Capturing the Essence of Korea: Lee Kyong-hee Interviewed by David E. Shaffer

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bit earlier this spring, I received a text message from the Gwangju International Center office asking if I knew a Lee Kyong-hee. It gave me pause for a moment, but as I read on, it mentioned The Korea Herald. I knew immediately that my first thought was correct: It was Lee Kyong-hee, the former editor-in-chief of the Herald, one of the nicest and most knowledgeable persons that I have ever known – and someone who I had not seen in almost 20 years!

I first met Lee Kyong-hee in the mid-1990s when I was writing monthly articles for The Korea Herald. She was working at the Herald and wanted to meet me to convince me that I should write a column for their brand new sister publication, Herald Week, an English learners’ weekly, that she was preparing to launch. She was convincing. After Herald Week’s two-year run, Lee was appointed managing editor of The Korea Herald, the first female in Korea to hold such a position. And almost immediately, she charmed me into doing a Koreanlearner’s column for the Herald.

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GN: Your present trip is for an upcoming article on temple food. What brings you all the way to Gwangju for this when there are temples across the peninsula? Lee: We are preparing a special coverage of temple food for the summer issue. The dietary custom at Buddhist temples in Korea is drawing broad attention as it is considered healthy for both the body and mind. Our coverage includes tea culture as part of the dietary traditions of temples. The Venerable Yeoyeon, who is board chair of the Choui Tea Culture Institute (초이차문화연구원), located in Dong-gu, Gwangju, inherits the lineage of monks specializing in banya-cha (반야차, aka Prajna tea), descending from famous Zen Master Choui of the late Joseon period. I came to meet him and Seong Hwa-ja, director of the institute. I have known Ven. Yeoyeon for a long time but met Seong for the first time. We had a nice time talking about tea and how the institute is devoted to teaching tea-making and teadrinking to the general public.

June 2019

So when the text message told me that Lee Kyong-hee was in town, and that she was contacting me through seeing me in her hotel copy of the Gwangju News, I jumped at the chance to meet her again. We had coffee – one of the best coffees I have had – because it led to this interview with her.

Lee Kyong-hee (Lee): Koreana is a quarterly magazine dealing with Korean culture and arts. It is published by the Korea Foundation, a public organization dedicated to public diplomacy toward the goal of “making friends of Korea around the world.” The magazine was inaugurated in 1987. At first, it was published only in English and later expanded to additional languages. Currently, it is published in eleven languages, including Korean, on- and off-line. We have readers all over the world. Anyone interested in reading our magazine may visit our homepage (www.koreana.or.kr) for a subscription or to buy copies of specific issues. In Seoul, you can purchase the magazine at Kyobo Bookstore locations in Gwanghwamun and Gangnam.

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On the bookshelf behind my desk, you will find a large, colorful tome, Korean Culture: Legacies and Lore, that Lee crafted at about this time. Her handiwork includes World Heritage in Korea, published a few years later and at least eight more books on Korea over the years. More recently, Lee’s efforts to make information on Korea more accessible to the outside world have won her the Korea Foundation Award in 2017 for her work at Koreana magazine, where she is now editor-in-chief.

Gwangju News (GN): You are presently the editor-inchief of Koreana magazine. Could you tell us a little about the magazine, who its target audience is, and how our readers could get a copy to read?

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GN: You have been involved not only in publishing but in English publishing in Korea for many years: editorin-chief of The Korea Herald, Korea Focus, and ASPAC Quarterly, to name a few. Could you tell us what has drawn you to this field and kept you so attached to it? Lee: I have been working in English journalism since I graduated from Hankuk University of Foreign Studies as an English major. You may say that English has been the tool for my profession all my life. Basically, I think I love English. My love for English goes back to my early teenage days when I was a maniac for English pop songs and movies. I believe that, above all else, I have been able to acquire a broader perspective and a wider human network by working in this field. GN: After many years of working with current affairs and politics in newspaper publishing, what enticed your pivot to culture and the arts? Lee: I started my career as a culture reporter. Back then, female cub reporters were almost automatically assigned to the culture desk at most newspapers. Later, I had opportunities to write about other subjects such as social issues, politics, and international relations. But eventually, I ended up in this field, which I believe has more lasting value, even though the effect may be felt slowly.

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June 2019

GN: What do you find to be the most difficult parts of publishing a newspaper or magazine? Lee: I have been involved in publishing periodicals of different cycles, including daily, weekly, monthly, and quarterly, over the last half century. There have been amazing technological advances in my profession during these years, though I doubt whether there has been comparable intellectual and moral progress. Each cycle has its own difficulties and every stage of work is important. I believe the key lies in the professionalism of individuals and organizations. GN: Are there any difficulties that you find related to publishing in English that you would not encounter if you were publishing in Korean? Lee: You do not have many reliable eyes and minds available in this field. As the person at the top, I often find myself waging a solitary battle.

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GN: You have risen through the publishing ranks at a time when positions of authority were almost totally populated by men. Can you relate any of the difficulties that you might have encountered on your journey? Lee: I have seldom considered it difficult, but I have worked hard. I believe my professionalism and work ethic have helped me reach where I am. If I have to point out the most difficult part of my job, I must say that I have had little time to spend for, and share with, my family. I am sorry for this. GN: What do you like to do in your free time, assuming that you indeed have some free time? Lee: Frankly, I have very little free time. I find myself feeling happy when I am driving along a country road listening to good music. When I have enough time to enjoy myself in the future, I hope to swim and watch movies. With more time available, I want to travel. GN: With your broad knowledge of Korean history, politics, economics, people, and places, what do you consider to be the main things that people in Korea associate with Gwangju and the surrounding area? Lee: Gwangju reminds most Koreans of its Democratic Uprising of May 1980 and socio-political discrimination the region suffered under the authoritarian governments of military rulers. But, as is widely known, the region’s history of suffering dates back to the Joseon Dynasty and even further back to the Goryeo Dynasty. In spite of its gloomy history, the region abounds in beautiful natural scenery, and the artistic and literary brilliance of its people, which have resulted in truly attractive legacies. GN: Of all the places you have been to in Gwangju and the surrounding province of Jeollanam-do, which have left the most lasting impressions? Lee: The region has so many beautiful and meaningful places that I will remember for a long time. It is not easy to name a few. I may sound too personal, but during this visit, I happened to pass by the school that my former colleague at The Korea Herald went to: Chonnam Girls’ High School. She was fired from the paper in the wake of the Gwangju Uprising. Following that, she went through a difficult time but later earned fame as a novelist. She passed away in 2007. I felt sad looking at the school grounds and a beautiful old plum tree in full bloom over the walls. Her name is Ahn Hye-sung (안혜성).

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▲ Recent issues of Koreana quarterly.

GN: Where have you not been or what have you not yet done in the area that are still on your must-do (must-see) list?

Lee: Assuming that most of your readers are expats who may not have enough access to information about cultural and other events or people in other cities and regions in the country, I would like to suggest very cautiously that it would be useful to carry news on such topics. GN: Thank you for taking the time for this interview, and for the coffee. Let’s not wait so long for the next cup!

GN: Now that you have had a chance to look through a few issues of the Gwangju News, what suggestions do you have for us and our magazine?

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The Author

Dr. David Shaffer is a long-time resident of Gwangju who was for many years a professor at Chosun University. He is now the board chair of the Gwangju International Center and editor-in-chief of the Gwangju News. He has written extensively on English teaching and learning, and has published books on Korean language, poetry, and traditional culture.

June 2019

Lee: Frankly speaking, I am amazed by the quality of your magazine. It is full of interesting stories of local and global perspectives. The stories are well written, if not journalistic at times, and the photographs are great. Above all else, I am very impressed by the large pool of native English-speaking writers. It indicates you have a very active and cooperative expat community.

Photograph courtesy of Ahn Hong-beom

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Lee: There are many places I want to visit but have not had a chance to yet. One of those places is Geomun-do. The island has intrigued me for a long time. The problem is that as I have visited most places for my work, the visits were always short and tightly scheduled. Therefore, in the future I hope to stay in one place longer so that I can understand and enjoy the place better.

GN: If you were to suggest topics of interest for Gwangju News articles for our readers, what would you suggest?

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Skies Gray, Heaven Weeps May 18 Memorial Ceremony

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

FEATURE

Written by Colin Farabee

▲ President Moon Jae-in addresses the audience.

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n a rainy and cool Saturday morning in May, I joined hundreds of people gathering in the May 18 Cemetery outside of Gwangju to grieve and to remember. Photographers lined the walkways and the press stand to capture the speeches and the crowds. We were in for quite a surprise, and though we did not know it yet, we would be witnesses to a historically and politically significant speech. As we filed to our seats clad in rain ponchos with umbrellas raised, the weather relented and the rains ceased, and though it remained gray and oppressive for a time, the skies began to lighten. Just before the official governmental delegation’s arrival, a notable conservative politician snuck into the venue at the last second from a side entrance. His attendance was extremely contentious, so much so that the streets into the cemetery were lined with chanting protesters shaking signs with the politician’s name on them. This politician belongs to the more extremist political faction of Koreans who deny that the May 18 Democratic Uprising occurred as it was described, or allege that it was North Korean communists who falsified the “massacre” to humiliate the government. His entrance caused quite a commotion. He and his security detail were only able to move to their seats slowly because of the swarm of photographers and protesters surrounding them. Finally, after that furor had died down, people’s attention was redirected towards the video screens and central walkway as the government officials arrived. Only then did we learn that it would be President Moon Jae-in delivering a speech that day, not the prime minister. After greeting some of the survivors and shaking hands with local politicians, the president made his way to his seat and the ceremony began.

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June 2019

An older woman took the podium next and spoke about her involvement in the May 18 Uprising. A nurse at the time, she bore witness to injured students coming into the hospital. Impassioned, she rode atop a vehicle, megaphone in hand, calling out to the people of the city and to the soldiers attacking the protesters. A younger woman read a poem about how grateful she was to the uncle she lost, and to all the

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The ceremony opened with a speech from the chairman of the May 18 Memorial Foundation. He laid out the timeline of events leading up to the Uprising, the events of the ten days of bloodshed, and the aftermath in Korea. After his speech, a video played of a woman who had lost her son in the Uprising, and she told her story of trying to keep him at home. As she was sick at the time, she was physically unable to stop him, and so he walked out after an argument with her about the importance of the protests. She never saw him again.

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▲ The crowd, dressed in raincoats, listens intently.

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June 2019

people who died in the Uprising for her country, for her freedom, and for the future that they were not able to see. After she finished, President Moon and his wife, First Lady Kim Jung-sook, placed incense in the ceremonial brazier and placed a wreath at the monument before the president took the podium for his address. President Moon began by apologizing directly for the government’s violent actions of the May 18 Uprising. He honored those protesters, saying that they showed “what true love of your country is about.” He commented on the unexpectedness of his appearance this year, as many had expected him to come next year on the 40th anniversary. He chose this time, he said, for two reasons. The first, more human reason, was due to the deep sorrow he feels for the trauma the people of Gwangju had to suffer. He apologized again for the horrendous violence and massacre the state authority committed against its citizens. The second was to make an appeal “to all Koreans,” though I feel he may have had a more specific group in mind, given the nature of his remarks.

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He wanted to remind the people that it has been over 20 years since the conclusion of the first investigation, when the government first applied the term meaning “massacre” to the events of 5.18. Further discussions and debates about that fact, he stated, are a pointless waste. The May 18 Uprising, he said, is not political and should not involve political parties, and Korea must come together as a nation and accept the burden of the crimes. By prosecuting those responsible for secret burials, sexual violence, and firing on victims from a helicopter, he hoped that the people of Gwangju could finally let go of the heavy burden their history has placed upon them. He closed his speech promising to push democracy in Korea further, and to do what he could to find those responsible in a transparent way, so there could be no confusion about facts, documents, or guilt. He pledged to work to make a better tomorrow for Gwangju, and to help the city realize its dreams. I felt blessed to witness first-hand the healing power those gestures held for those long suffering from old wounds and hidden pains. I know that as the masses filed out of the gates to

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◀ President Moon Jae-in greets important guests at the ceremony.

▲ The ceremony closed with a passionate performance.

Photographs by Sarah Pittman

The Author

◀ President Moon Jae-in thanking the nurse who stood atop the buses for her bravery.

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June 2019

Colin Farabee is a 27-year-old Californian working as an English teacher in Sangmu. His hobbies include extreme sports, riflery, and teaching historical European martial arts. He also writes adventure modules and plays lots of nerdy games, such as D&D and WH40k.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

return to their normal lives with a little more closure, the president of Korea had had a deeply emotional and positive effect on their lives that day.

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FEATURE

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Joanna Cariño Soldiering On in the Struggle for Indigenous People’s Rights Gwangju Prize winner Joanna Cariño continues on her crusade against state violence in the Northern Philippines.

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June 2019

Written by Gianna Francesca Catolico

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ith more than 170 ethnic groups from its concrete jungles to its remote settlements, the Philippines cements itself as a cocoon of ethnic and cultural diversity in Asia. In the mountainous northern Philippine region of Cordillera alone, an enormous number of ethnic and religious minorities have thrived, one of which is the Ibaloi from Benguet Province. Hailing from this ethnic group is this year’s winner of the Gwangju Prize for Human Rights (GPHR), Joanna K. Cariño, who has been at the forefront in the struggle against human rights violations in the region from the Martial Law era up to the incumbent presidency of Rodrigo Duterte, Joanna has been the ebullient voice of the Cordillera grassroots movement, often sporting her traditional Ibaloi divit (skirt) and kambal (blouse) during protests or activities. The first few lines of her acceptance speech at the 2019

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Gwangju Prize for Human Rights awarding ceremony were a testament to her fearlessness and dedication in the field of indigenous people’s rights. Last year, the Philippines’ Department of Justice tagged her and six other Cordilleran activists as alleged “terrorists” and so-called sympathizers of the Communist Party of the Philippines and the New People’s Army, a move that rather emboldened Joanna to denounce the Duterte regime for its overt disregard for civil liberties and rule of law. “I am deeply honored to have been chosen as the awardee for the 2019 Gwangju Prize for Human Rights,” she shares upon receiving the prize. “It is ironic that while the repressive Philippine Duterte regime labels human rights activists such as myself as terrorists, prestigious foreign institutions such as the May 18 Memorial Foundation recognize my human rights activism as honorable.”

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15 ACTIVISM FLOWS IN HER BLOOD AND VEINS Activism and passion for human rights runs in the blood and veins of Joanna. An Ibaloi native from Baguio City, Joanna is part of the influential Cariño clan, the traditional landowners of the mountaintop city dubbed the “Summer Capital of the Philippines” for its yearround cool weather. During the American colonial rule, the ancestral lands of the natives of Baguio were forcibly seized, including the land owned by Joanna’s greatgrandfather.

Joanna was a lecturer at the University of the Philippines – Baguio from 1980 to 1983. When mass movements against construction of dams and logging concessions blossomed, as well as protests to overthrow the dictatorship of then-President Ferdinand Marcos, she gave up her career in academia and became a full-time activist from 1984 up to the present. “It is in the nature of youthful idealism to question, to seek answers and solutions, to work for a better society, especially if the one we have is beset with problems,” she elucidated.

With the support of her parents, Joanna, along with her four siblings, became student activists during the Martial Law era. Her elder sister, Jennifer “Jingjing” Cariño, sacrificed her life during the anti-Martial Law movement in 1976.

For Joanna and other Filipino human rights activists, the Gwangju Uprising has resembling elements with the 1986 EDSA People Power Revolution. In both uprisings, a multitude of civil society groups, members of the clergy, and students merged forces to resist authoritarianism. “I truly identify with the spirit of the Gwangju Democratic Uprising of 1980 and take note of the parallelisms between South Korea and the Philippines as we struggled against dictatorships,” Joanna added. “We should always remember and never forget the lessons of history. Otherwise, historical revisionism will surface and try to rewrite history from the rulers’ point of view.”

“Martial law breeds resistance and revolution,” Joanna explained. “An oppressive and exploitative system breeds revolutionary families. There are eight of us siblings in the family and even before Martial Law, five of us were already student activists. The three younger ones also became activists when they grew older during the Martial Law era. My older sister, Jingjing, is a martyr to the revolutionary cause. Together with my younger sister, Joji, I was illegally arrested, tortured, and detained without charges for two years.”

Joanna was one of the founders of the Cordillera People’s Alliance for the Defense of Ancestral Domain and SelfDetermination (CPA), the Cordillera Resource Center

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June 2019

▲ Joanna (with sign) at the 2018 March Against Tyranny.

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16

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

▲ Joanna (center) during an event organized by the Sandugo Alliance of Moro and Indigenous Peoples for Self-Determination.

for Indigenous People’s Rights, the Sandugo – Movement of Moro and Indigenous Peoples for Self-Determination, and SELDA–Northern Luzon, an association of political detainees during the Marcos regime. Some of CPA’s activities include education and organizing around indigenous people’s rights, ancestral lands and resources, and the annual commemoration of Cordillera Day on April 24 to honor indigenous heroes and martyrs, among others. Her community’s steadfast movement triumphed over the construction of the Chico Dams Project and the Cellophil Logging Concession, which would have displaced thousands of indigenous peoples in the region. Despite this, the struggle against predatory corporate interests is far from over, as they are now gallantly protesting against Chinese intervention in the construction of the Kaliwa Dam Project and the Chico River Pump Irrigation Project. Meanwhile, SELDA has been assisting Martial Law victims in claiming reparations from the government. Apart from her work in NGOs, Joanna is a prolific writer and researcher, having published numerous journals and books on indigenous people’s rights. THE STATE OF INDIGENOUS PEOPLE’S RIGHTS TODAY The struggles of the Ibaloi and other ethnic groups in reclaiming their ancestral lands persists up to today,

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and alas, the human rights situation in the Cordillera has deteriorated due to a hasty plague of extrajudicial killings, torture, and enforced disappearance under the Duterte regime. Several ethnic groups, chiefly the Lumad people of the Southern Philippines, are heavily militarized, harassed, and displaced from their ancestral lands, a phenomenon that Joanna and other Filipino human rights defenders believe is the peak of relentless cruelty against indigenous communities. “The state of indigenous peoples’ rights has worsened under the Duterte regime, as he tries to impose development aggression on indigenous communities, and employs the military to quell resistance,” she added. MOVING MOUNTAINS FOR HUMAN RIGHTS AND DEMOCRACY Although her focus is on indigenous people’s rights in the Cordillera region, Joanna extends her activism and solidarity across all communities even to the far-flung islands. Amid her age at 68, she is always visible during public engagements and in the streets during rallies, even as far away as Manila. “We will continue to stand up, to educate and organize, to campaign and advocate for indigenous peoples’ rights among the indigenous peoples of the Cordillera and the Philippines. We will unite with the other oppressed and downtrodden sectors of society to help build the broadest united front against

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17 tyranny and martial law in the Philippines. This is the lesson from the People Power Uprising of 1986,” Joanna concludes. Joanna plans to allocate the prize money from the GPHR award towards building a CPA training center. Through the establishment of this training center, Joanna envisions enhancing building capacity and “passing the torch” to an enthusiastic roster of young human rights defenders in the Cordillera region. Before concluding the interview, Joanna left galvanizing words of wisdom to her fellow human rights advocates: “Human rights make us human. With every violation of human rights, our humanity is diminished. The human spirit can take only so much oppression before resistance develops. Repression breeds resistance. To stand up for human rights, to resist tyranny, and to rebel against an oppressive system is justified. However, we have to prepare ourselves for sacrifice and even death in the struggle against tyrants for people’s democracy and a better world. It is honorable to stand up for democracy

and to defend human rights, especially for the less fortunate and downtrodden.” Indeed, her GPHR award serves as a ray of light at a time when the silhouettes of state violence and tyranny torment human rights stalwarts in the Philippines and the rest of Asia. Photographs courtesy of by Joanna Cariño and Kyounghun Choi (The May 18 Memorial Foundation)

The Author

Gianna Francesca Catolico is an intern from the Philippines at the May 18 Memorial Foundation. She recently finished her master’s degree in human rights and democratization from Mahidol University in Thailand. She has been sojourning around Asia over the past three years.

Note: A portion of this article appeared in the May 2019 issue of 주먹밥, a biannual magazine published by the May 18 Memorial Foundation.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

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June 2019

▲ Joanna (fourth from left) on the Awarding Ceremony of 2019 Gwangju Prize for Human Rights Award.

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FEATURE

1818

Remembering Mike: Gwangju Community Builder Written by William Mulligan

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

I

was lucky to have met Michael Simning when I first moved to Gwangju in 2009. He made you feel welcome, like you were a longtime friend or family member. That’s why it was very difficult to say “no” when Mike asked you to volunteer for something. I have to admit, I didn’t do a lot of volunteering before I came to Korea. The first city in Korea that I lived in was great, but there weren’t many opportunities to take the initiative. The first event I helped with was the GIC’s Gwangju International Community Day (GIC Day) a number of years back. Mike was in remission from cancer, but the disease had taken a toll on him. I remember him wearing a mask that day to protect him, but he was still full of spirit and cracking jokes with all the volunteers. I don’t think many of us knew that day would be one of the last events that he would ever participate in. He had battled cancer and won, but the after effects were just too much. Mike passed away in February of 2014. His friends and family took their time to mourn him, but many also realized that he’d want us to remember him in a more positive light.

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In 2015, a group of Mike’s friends founded the Michael Simning Community Builder Award. The GIC Day probably wouldn’t be the success that it is today if it weren’t for Mike’s help. He started getting people together to volunteer at local orphanages for Christmas parties and other events. Mike was a family man as well. At many activities around town, you’d see him with his wife and daughter. He wanted the families of Gwangju to get together regardless of whether they came from Canada or India. Mike wanted to make the city of Gwangju a better place for everyone, and there was no better way to recognize this than to create an award in his honor. The award is given to an individual, or individuals, who contribute to the city of Gwangju by volunteering. Sometimes English teachers or just expats in general get a bad reputation, but I like to think (and I might be biased) that the expat community gives back to this city in so many ways. Past winners have included those who’ve carried on for Mike in the causes that he believed a lot in. Al Barnum, the

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19

Past Winners 19

2016 ▲ Jeff Hamilyton (left), and Kelly Palmer Kim are the founders of Global Family in Gwangju (GFOG). GFOG regularly organizes events for multicultural families in Gwangju.

2017

2018

▲ Sarah Elizabeth Hale (left), president of Adopt-a-Child for Christmas, was the winner of the 2017 Award. She actively encourages the spirit of giving for the orphanages.

first winner, played an integral part in raising awareness of and money for the Adopt-a-Child project. Other winners have also included those who give their time for the many international families of Gwangju, those who help put focus on women’s issues, and the people who work many hours to make sure that kids have a gift for the holidays. Since the award started four years ago, over two dozen people have been nominated for the volunteer work that they do.

about Gwangju is that if there’s a cause that you believe in, you’ll get a lot of help from people here. The award is traditionally given at the beginning of June, just before Mike’s birthday. At the past ceremonies held at the Gwangju International Center, we’ve always ended with a birthday cake for him. Also, the winner receives a cash prize for their group or organization to continue the work they’ve started. In keeping with Mike’s tradition of wearing Hawaiian shirts, winners have also received a flowery Hawaiian shirt as part of the award. This year’s nominees for the Michael Simning Community Builder Award are Daniel Wallace, Karina Prananto, and Misub Hur. One reason why I love living in Gwangju is the people I’ve met here. We all have regular jobs that take up a lot of our time, but there are many who still find a way to give back and volunteer. That’s the reason why the Michael Simning Community Builder Award was founded. To all those who do volunteer, even if he didn’t know you, Mike would be very proud. Photographs courtesy of GFN and Gwangju Community Builders

William Mulligan has been a resident of Gwangju for over ten years. He enjoys spending time with his son and his friends here. ▲ Hawaiian shirt, trademark of Michael Simning.

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June 2019

The Author

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

For the past three years, it’s been an honor to be involved with the Michael Simning Community Builder Award. Every year, I’m amazed by how people want to make Gwangju a better place, no matter how long they plan to stay here. It gives me a great feeling to be a part of this community, and I know that Mike would approve as well. Not only does this award honor people for their work, but it also encourages others to volunteer. The great thing

▲ Dana Han (left) was the winner of the 2018 Award. She works mostly for organizations that help out with single mothers in Gwangju.

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FEATURE

20 Blast from the Past

The Korean War (6.25) How It Began

Originally written by Shin Sang-soon

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

(Originally appearing in the June 2003 and June 2010 issues of the Gwangju News.)

It was 69 years ago this month that the Korean War began. It lasted three long years, left millions dead and homeless, and left scars that have taken decades to overcome. As June 25 (6.25) is the observance of the outbreak of this devastating war, it is fitting and educational to remember the occasion by running a compilation of two Korean War articles by Prof. Shin Sang-soon, longtime contributor to the Gwangju News on myriad things Korean. — Ed.

fact, for months preceding the attack, negotiations between the North and the South had been underway regarding the settlement of frequent skirmishes along the 38th Parallel. The North’s attack was premeditated and miscalculated. When China became communist in 1949, the UN and the Free World could do nothing to save Free China. Kim Ilsung miscalculated that his invasion into the South would not trigger UN intervention.

t was a pre-dawn hour of Sunday, June 25, 1950, that the North Korean communists launched an unprovoked invasion into South Korea, without any warning or declaration of war, and captured South Korea’s capital of Seoul within three days. South Korean servicemen and officers were on leave for the weekend and the South was totally unprepared for such a large-scale attack. The North’s air force bombed Gimpo Airport, and their naval force landed on the east coast. The South Korean troops proved no match for the heavily armed communists and Russianmade T-34 tanks. Their radios blared that they were first attacked by the South and were only retaliating in response to the South’s provocation. It was a total lie. As a matter of

The Republic of Korea, recognized as the sole legitimate government on the Korean Peninsula by the UN General Assembly in December 1948, was on the verge of disappearing from the earth, with its capital in the hands of the communists. Immediate action needed to be taken to bring up the matter of the North’s invasion with the UN Security Council. Then-U.S. President Harry Truman,* though on vacation in his home state of Missouri, hurried back to Washington to take decisive action in the Security Council through the U.S. delegation to deal with the imminent danger in Korea. The danger was interpreted as communist domination of the world. After World War II ended in 1945, contrary to the world’s expectation of peace, disturbances erupted in many places around the world,

I

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21 the most conspicuous being the Berlin Blockade. Soviet Russia’s expansionism after WWII was dubbed an “Iron Curtain” along the Eastern European border.

ships), Norway (field surgical hospitals), Italy (Red Cross hospitals) Now, the Korean people make a grateful acknowledgement of the noble sacrifices made by the UN soldiers who lost their lives in the fight for the freedom of South Korea during the Korean War, which lasted from June 25, 1950, to July 27, 1953.

If the North Korean adventure had been left unchecked, the resultant communist threat would have posed a great danger for Japan and the other Southeast Asian countries. At this time, the UN Security Council was in a state of disunion caused by frequent vetoes by Russia. After the fall of China to communism in 1949, Russia tried to oust the Taiwanese delegation from the Security Council but met with the Free World’s opposition. Yakov Malik, the Russian delegate to the Council, went home to Moscow in protest.

*An episode concerning the resolute little man from Missouri is in order. According to Cheonnamnok (천남록), a book of prophecies written in the middle of the Joseon Dynasty as narrated by Cheonggam (청감), the Nostradamus of his time, at a time of national emergency, Korea was to be rescued by a true man. That “true man” turned out to be President Truman. June 27, 1950, in the UN Security Council was a breathtaking moment for all Koreans, and the mysterious absence of Russia’s Malik from the Security Council miraculously paved the way for the passage of the Council resolution on Korea without a Russian veto. This writer shudders at the mere thought of Russia being present in the Council chamber, wondering what would have happened if Malik had exercised his veto – even if “if ” has no place in history.

On June 27, 1950, two days after the outbreak of the war, the Council passed a resolution, with Russia abstaining, ordering the communists to withdraw to the original 38th Parallel and encouraging all UN member nations to give military support to South Korea. U.S. troops began to arrive soon after, and were subsequently joined by those of other nations. Medical assistance also came in the form of hospital ships, medical teams, field ambulance units, and hospital units. The UN Forces that formed and functioned in Korea were the first international armed forces to resist unlawful invasion into a peaceful country and to restore peace after the signing of the UN Charter in 1945.

The Author

Shin Sang-soon (1922–2011) was a longtime professor of English education at Chonnam National University. After his retirement, he authored “The Korean Way” under the penname “2Ys,” a column in the Gwangju News that ran from 2002 to 2010. Prof. Shin was also a senior advisor to the Gwangju International Center.

In addition to the 16 UN nations providing combatant forces to South Korea (see table), the nine countries that provided medical assistance were Sweden (Red Cross hospitals), India (field hospitals), Denmark (hospital

UN Nations Participating in the Korean War, 1950-1953 No

Nation

Total Soldiers

Dead

Wounded

Missing

POW

1,789,000

36,940

92,134

3,737

4,439

2

United Kingdom

56,000

1,078

2,674

179

977

3

Australia

8,407

339

1,216

3

26

4

Netherlands

5,322

120

645

-

3

5

Canada

25,687

312

1,212

1

32

6

New Zealand

3,794

23

79

1

-

7

France

3,421

262

1,008

7

12

8

The Philippines

7,420

112

229

16

41

9

Turkey

14,936

741

2,068

163

244

10

Thailand

6,326

129

1,139

5

-

11

Greece

4,992

192

543

-

3

12

South Africa

826

34

-

-

9

13

Belgium

3,498

99

336

4

1

14

Luxemburg

83

2

13

-

-

15

Columbia

5,100

163

448

-

28

16

Ethiophia

3,518

121

536

-

-

Source: The 60th Anniversary of the Korean War Commemoration Committee

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June 2019

United States

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

1

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COMMUNITY

22 Local Enterpreneur

▲ Yangnim Travel Lounge is a hanok-style one-stop information service for all visitors to Yangnim-dong.

Yangnim Travel Lounge Art and History Fills Its Alleys

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

Written by Karina Prananto

G

wangju’s Yangnim-dong (양림동) has recently transformed itself into an artistic neighborhood. It is an area where new trends have begun in many fields, such as culture and arts. Its close proximity to the downtown area makes it easily accessible to those tired from shopping and looking for a refreshing walk through its innumerable alleys. Many places in Yangnim-dong are connected to Gwangju’s history. For example, Yangnim-dong is where Western missionaries settled in the early days, and among its historically significant sites are places like Honam Theological University and Seminary, Sajik Park, Gwangju Christian Hospital, Owen Memorial Hall, the birthplace of Jeong Yul-seong (a Gwangju-born composer famous in China), and the Home of Missionary Wilson. There are

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many interesting stories held within the neighborhood’s alleyways. While Korean visitors may walk around the area with ease, foreign visitors might need some background information to fully understand the neighborhood. To accommodate these needs, Yangnim Travel Lounge (양림쌀롱 여행자라운지) opened in February 2017. Aside from the lounge, they also run the “Gwangju 1930” label, which focuses on Gwangju’s history; and Yangnim Salon, which promotes the arts, among many other projects. The Travel Lounge, located just a stone’s throw away from Yangnim-dong’s Tourist Information Center, is a traditional hanok-style building with a cozy interior. It has a reading corner, a clothing rental service, souvenirs, luggage storage,

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23 and a self-service bar, all with free wi-fi and a free charging station. The Travel Lounge also offers tour consultations, experience programs, and a space for exhibitions and small concerts each month. Managed by Travel Mates, the lounge gives visitors a different perspective of Yangnim-dong through the background of local stories. Yangnim Salon will also be open every Saturday from June to November. It provides foreigners with various art exhibitions, performances, and experience programs. Yangnim-dong has also been selected as a destination of the Gwangju City Tour Bus every Sunday, perfect for first-time visitors to learn more about Gwangju history and art. So when in Gwangju, make sure that you visit Yangnim-dong! TRAVEL MATE SERVICE (TRAVEL CONSULTATION) A travel consultant (also known as a “travel mate”) can help plan your itinerary for Yangnim-dong, allowing you to cover important sites and make the most of your time. The consultant can also help plan your trip around Gwangju itself. COSTUME RENTALS Walk around the historical neighborhood of Yangnimdong in style! The Travel Lounge offers Korean hanbok and Western clothing from the 1930s for rent. While dressed up, you can tour the area and take pictures to perfect the moment. The rental fee is 15,000 won per person for two hours. This also includes a one-day lounge pass, which offers props such as umbrellas and hats to be worn together with the costumes.

OPPA (NUNA) LOVES TRAVEL This is a special lecture and concert series with invited guests and artists. Craft beer and light refreshments will be provided during the program. Pianist Lee Seung-kyu will perform on June 28 from 7:00 to 8:30 p.m. Only 20 spots are available and reservations are necessary at least two weeks in advance. The admission fee is 10,000 won per person or free with a season pass. YANGNIM MOONLIGHT TOUR This is a night tour program of Yangnim-dong. A “modern girl” guide will share her special memories about 1930s Gwangju. This tour gets underway every Saturday at 7:30 p.m. And lasts about 60 minutes. The participation fee is 15,000 won per person with a tour course of Yangnim Church, Owen Memorial Hall, the House of Missionary Wilson, and more. Although this tour is conducted in Korean, you can get information in advance from the Travel Lounge to understand the tour better. Photographs courtesy of Yangnim Travel Lounge

The Author

Karina is from Jakarta, Indonesia, and has been living in Gwangju since 2006. She first read Gwangju News in 2007 and has been involved with the magazine since then. She loves traveling around Korea, and Jeollanam-do in particular, with her family.

YANGNIM TRAVEL LOUNGE

t Daily 11:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m. (closed Mondays) P 27-2 Yangchon-gil, Nam-gu, Gwangju (entrance of the House of Choi Seung-hyo) 광주 남구 양촌길 27-2 양림쌀롱 여행자라운지 À 070-4239-5040 ` g-travellounge.kr

www.gwangjunewsgic.com ▲ The costume rental service provides you with endless opportunities for photo shoots.

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June 2019

▲ A cozy travel resource corner at the Lounge.

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TRAVEL COMMUNITY

24 24 Lost in Gwangju Local Enterpreneur

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

Choi Sun stands in front of her house at the conclusion of our interview.

The Choi Mansion

Inside Korea’s Most Unusual Japanese-Era Hanok Written and photographed by Isaiah Winters

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25

I

f you’ve ever wandered the streets of Gwangju’s Sajik-dong (사직동), then you may have spotted an unmistakable pre-war home nestled between the leafy hills of Sajik Park and Gwangju Stream. This is “Rich Man” Choi’s house (최부자집), Gwangju’s inimitable two-story hanok (traditional Korean house) from the Japanese colonial era. Constructed between 1936 and 1942, it belonged to Choi Myeong-gu, an extremely wealthy land baron and secret supporter of Korean independence activists who’s said to have struggled vehemently with Japanese authorities to have the house built during the country’s occupation. Today his similarly tenacious granddaughter, Choi Sun, is the sole occupant and most outspoken voice in the effort to get the house recognized by local authorities as a tangible cultural asset. Recently, a few associates and I were able to sit down with Choi and discuss her extraordinary house in person. Our discussion was arranged and interpreted by Dr. Shin Gyonggu, professor emeritus of English at Chonnam National University, executive director of the Gwangju International Center, and publisher of the Gwangju News. With us was author and independent scholar Robert J. Fouser who, in addition to being Seoul National University’s first foreign professor in the Department of Korean Language Education, is passionate about hanok preservation. Also present was my friend and fellow urban explorer Jon Dunbar of The Korea Times, who shares a deep interest in finding, documenting, and preserving structures of all kinds in Korea. Our visit lasted some two hours, with Choi doing most of the talking and the rest of us listening intently to the difficulties associated with preserving such an architectural treasure. Anyone with an appreciation for beautiful architecture can see that the house’s extraordinary aesthetic makes it worth preserving; however, the process of getting it recognized as a tangible cultural asset has dragged on for years. Choi, who owns the home, has been locked in a longstanding property rights dispute with administrators at Chonnam National University, who own the land it’s on. During the rancorous process, Choi and only one of the university’s professors of architecture, Dr. Cheon Deuk-yeom, stood in opposition as the great gate in front of the house was razed due to its instability and high renovation costs. The costly stone

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June 2019

This dusty stairwell leads to the second-story deck surrounding the house.

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26

A portrait of Choi Myeong-gu is held up by his granddaughter, Choi Sun.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

walls surrounding the property were also demolished and replaced with cheap concrete and bricks. Despite this and many other setbacks, today her years of perseverance are finally paying off. The university administrators and Choi have come to a deal whereby the house can be preserved so long as the administrators will not be responsible for any future reconstruction of the great gate and surrounding walls. Meanwhile, Gwangju’s Nam-gu Office has agreed to support the house’s preservation and will send inspectors in the fall to assess its condition. But the uncertainty surrounding the house doesn’t end there. Once the house officially becomes a tangible cultural asset, it’s uncertain what exactly its next role will be. With Choi as its full-time resident, will it remain a private family residence, become a semi-public museum of sorts, or be put to some other use not yet decided? It’s hard to say. Regardless, what’s most important at present is that this architectural marvel gets the upkeep it most needs. If the house’s external pastiche of Korean, Japanese, and Western influences doesn’t strike you as something worth

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preserving, then a look inside at the detailed woodwork, hidden recesses, and impeccably fitted support beams should sway you. During our visit, Choi gave us total access to the upper portions of the house, though she admitted that it’d been decades since she last went up herself and repeatedly warned us that there was 20 years of dust up there. Actually, 20 years of dust turned out to be a very conservative estimate. In a dark recess beneath a staircase were a few beer bottles of Crown and OB from the 1988 Summer Olympics covered in dust as thick as fur. What’s more, simply pushing open a sliding glass door to walk along the external deck left my palm black. Besides the copious layers of antique dust, the place was bone-dry and apparently free of water damage. This plus the level of craftsmanship on display suggest that the house was not only built to house the Choi family but several generations of that family. Today the upper floor, which was formerly a reading room (독서실, dokseo-sil), is still lined with timeworn desks and chairs where students used to sit and study among the traditional woodwork and papered sliding doors. According to Choi, it was quite a lucrative business while

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27 it lasted. Now she just wonders what to do with everything left up there. The most impressive aspect of the upstairs quarters is undoubtedly the condition of the rafters and support beams. Free of nails, everything had to be fitted together with perfectly sized notches in logs shipped at great cost all the way from the distant Hamgyeong provinces of northeastern North Korea. Some online sources say that the costly roof tiles were produced in a tilery in Gangjin, though Choi admitted she was unsure of their exact origin. If true, then the house is made of materials stretching the entire Korean Peninsula, which is demonstrative of her grandfather’s great wealth, connections, and taste. Choi appears to share in her grandfather’s sense of taste. An alumnus of Seoul’s prestigious Ewha Womans University, Choi spent much of her adulthood as a piano teacher. I counted about five pianos during our visit and suspected there were more tucked away someplace else. At one point, Choi considered partitioning off parts of the house to make individual practice rooms, but that idea never picked up steam. Despite the house’s antique façade, Choi’s living quarters are capacious, spotless, and modern. Her bedroom has the largest mother-of-pearl black lacquer wardrobe I’ve ever seen. And while the house features a kitchen as contemporary as any in today’s high-rise apartments, it also retains the original kitchen, which is fitted with an external

brick chimney immediately adjacent to the home. In winter, heat from this kitchen would spread throughout the house for warmth. In summer, the cooking was done outdoors using an additional brick chimney, which was detached to keep the house cool. Towards the end of our visit, Choi, feeling more comfortable in our presence, invited us into her kitchen for coffee, where she took the time to ask each of the foreigners present why we specifically chose to live in Korea for so long. I got a sense that none of our answers lived up to her expectations, which were buoyed by her staunch pride in her country. In my case, Korea wasn’t love at first sight, but instead something that’s grown on me. It’s been a long process with lots of ups and downs – something Choi can certainly relate to. Interpretation provided by Dr. Shin Gyonggu

The Author

Originally from Southern California, Isaiah is a Gwangju-based urban explorer who enjoys writing about the City of Light’s lesser-known quarters. When he’s not roaming the streets and writing about his experiences, he’s usually working or fulfilling his duties as the Gwangju News’ heavily caffeinated chief proofreader.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

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June 2019

A picture is all that’s left of the great gate that once stood outside the house. ▶

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28 Around Korea

Mystical Gaya

“A Museum Under the Sky” in Daegaya Written and photographed by Baha Komilov

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

TRAVEL

W

hen it comes to travel around Korea, there are many beautiful and amazing places to visit, like Jeonju, Suncheon, Seoul, and Busan, among many others. However, there is one place much less promoted on tourist websites or social media platforms. Recently, I had a chance to visit Daegaya (대가야), which is the county seat of Goryeong County (고령군, just southwest of Daegu) and a historic site where the glorious culture of Gaya flourished. I spent two days there with my friends; our trip was amazing and full of great experiences. The first thing we stopped to do was to experience the sounds of the gayageum (가야금, a somewhat zitherlike, traditional Korean musical instrument) in Gayatgo Village (가얏고마을). The gayageum is one of the symbols of the village and consists of a body, 12 strings, and a moveable bridge. As local people have said, this village offers the best gayageum experience hall in the whole country. Actually, they were right, because the staff members there were really friendly and good at their jobs. We had an hour to learn and practice the instrument, and it was enough time to learn and practice a few things. It was an absolutely amazing experience that you must try, even if it is your first time playing any instrument. After the activity, we were served some Korean dishes that were prepared by local residents at the cafeteria behind the hall. If you are someone who likes visiting museums and taking a look at historical art and exhibitions, then you will be in the right place by visiting Goryeong. During our trip, we had a chance to visit Ureuk Museum, where you can see and get familiar with the origins of the gayageum. It was opened to spread the excellence of gukak (국악, traditional Korean music). The place was actually built in the shape of a gayageum and was dedicated to the gayageum and Ureuk (우륵), the gayageum’s creater and also a great musician. This is the only museum of its kind in that it excavates, collects, preserves, and displays pieces that help visitors more deeply appreciate the beauty and

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history of the gayageum. Another good thing about the museum is that it is only a 15-minute walk from Gayatgo Village, where we learned how to play the instrument. Later on, we continued our trip by visiting Daegaya Museum, which is an exhibition hall for the history and culture of Daegaya. The museum is divided into two parts: the Daegaya History Pavilion and the Daegaya Royal Tomb Pavilion (a big black circular tomb). Honestly, I am not a huge fan of visiting museums, but this one has important original artifacts, such as earthenware, ironware, and gilt bronze crowns, which were all exhibited to showcase Daegaya’s splendid culture. The area also features enduring Daegaya pottery, a helmet and crown puzzle, and a printing experience with a pantograph. The place is also child-friendly, with a space for kids to enjoy their time by experiencing the traditional culture of Daegaya. After enjoying all of the indoor exhibitions, it was time to walk and relish the outdoor exhibitions, which are located on your right when you leave the museum. The first thing you will see is the Hall of the Royal Tombs, which is the sacred burial place of Daegaya’s kings, royal families, and nobles. It is also a representative site that best reveals the prosperity of the Great Gaya Confederation (42–562 A.D.). Jisan-dong Tumuli contains the first communal gravesite discovered in Korea, over 700 ancient tombs of different sizes distributed throughout the area. This area was selected to be on the tentative UNESCO World Heritage Listing in 2015. Another great experience was Gesil Village, which resembles Jeonju, as 80 percent of the village is comprised of hanok (한옥, traditional Korean houses). We stayed overnight in the village, and it was definitely one of the best village experiences ever. The lady who was the owner of our hanok cooked us a delicious breakfast. It felt like we were in the Pixar movie Ratatouille. The village offers visitors many activities, such as making yeot (엿, Korean taffy), staying in a hanok, a village tour, and various other experience programs. We finished our tour by visiting a tomato farm, where we picked our own tomatoes – which could also be

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29

▲ The author trying out his musical skills on the gayageum.

▲ The breakfast in Hanok Village made by locals.

another good experience for those who have never done farm work before. Moreover, we also visited the Daegaya Street Market and had lunch there. As our time was limited, we could not do many activities, but Daegaya offers many more experiences, like the Burye Forest Adventure, the Daegaya Experience Camp, horseback riding, and seasonal festivals like the Goryeong Cosmos Festival with fireworks, street musical events, acoustic guitar performances, and fusion gayageum performances.

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The Author

Baha is originally from Uzbekistan, but he considers himself a global citizen. He has been in Gwangju for three years and is a student at Chonnam National University, majoring in international relations and diplomacy. He’s a passionate language learner and is fluent in five foreign languages, with German being his sixth language.

June 2019

Daegaya in Goryeong County is more than a tourist spot. I would consider it a “museum under the sky.” A trip to Daegaya saves you both time and money, as you are able to experience most things at one time and all in one place.

And that one place is southwest of Daegu – not such a long distant for a fantastic experience! So, why not visit soon, and make a great memory in Korea?

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

▲ Two village guardians.

▲ The paths to the royal tombs.

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30 From Abroad

A Singapore State of Mind

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

TRAVEL

Written and photographed by William Urbanski

A

small city-state sitting on the tip of Malaysia, Singapore is an intricate tapestry of language and culture. My hope, my dream, is that the following account of my voyage into the mouth of this Asian Tiger will convince you to include it on your own list of places to visit. IN PRAISE OF THE PREMIUM BUS Usually, the bus that goes up to Incheon Airport is the Udeung (우등, deluxe) express bus, which is pretty spacious and quite nice. But by some twist of serendipity, my wife and I were assigned to the Premium bus – a sweet and noble chariot representing the pinnacle of comfort and luxury. The seats are huge, recline automatically, and have a privacy curtain. There’s even a private TV. The next time you’re going to pay 35,000 won for an Udeong bus, seriously, just pay the few thousand won extra to upgrade to a new level of class and style. WHAT TO SEE After my experience on the Premium bus, Singapore was going to have to work pretty hard to curry my favor. Without a doubt, Marina Bay is the biggest must-see place in Singapore. This is where you can find the Merlion, which is the symbol of Singapore. The fountain-statue is cool enough, but it’s the bay itself that’s the real attraction. Surrounded by theaters, a casino, and the famous Marina Bay Sands Hotel, it’s easy to spend a full day just poking around. The best part was the nightly, free laser shows that take place. So even though Singapore has a reputation for

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being quite expensive, there are lots of free and fun ways to fill your time. If you’re going to be traveling to Singapore, it’s worth taking a trip to Universal Studios, even if, like me, your love of cinema died along with Paul Walker in 2013. The park itself is located on the beautiful island of Sentosa, which is chock-full of every conceivable type of restaurant and shop. Within the park, some of the attractions like the Waterworld stunt show may seem a little dated, but it’s actually a logical fallacy to suggest that any film involving Kevin Costner is anything but timeless. Among the myriad rides, my favorite was definitely the “Transformers: The Ultimate 3D Battle,” which was my most thrilling automobile experience since the Premium bus from Gwangju.

“…it’s actually a logical fallacy to suggest that any film involving Kevin Costner is anything but timeless.” At this point, it’s necessary to mention a word of caution: Don’t make the calamitous and egregious error of riding the “Accelerator.” I must confess that I felt spiritually violated after wasting 20 minutes of my time waiting in line only to spin around at underwhelmingly low speeds for two minutes. Without question, the “Accelerator” is antithetical to Universal Studios’ vision of a fun and enjoyable experience, and amounted to nothing more than two minutes of my life completely squandered.

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31

▲ The Merlion is the symbol Singapore deserves, but not the one it needs. ▲ Marina Bay Sands Hotel.

As an interesting side note, since non-residents are ineligible for the CPF, they can usually apply for (read: “demand”) higher pay. You heard it here first: If you get a job in Singapore, tell your employer I said you should get 40 percent more money than whatever they first offer you.

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HOMEWARD BOUND In terms of time, I’d say that three or four days are enough to get a good taste of what Singapore has to offer. It’s small and dense, so it’s possible to see a lot without spending a lot of time commuting. Probably the worst part about Singapore was leaving. This was in part because our connecting flight in Shanghai was delayed, leaving us scrambling to catch our bus in Incheon. I was looking forward to taking the Premium bus back to Gwangju but fortune, my constant enemy, decided it wasn’t to be. On the Udeung bus, we slept, satisfied with the sights and sounds of Singapore.

The Author

William Urbanski is from Canada and has lived in Korea for about seven years. He’s married to a wonderful Korean woman and can eat spicy food.

June 2019

WHAT TO EAT Scrumptious snacks aren’t in short supply on the streets of Singapore. Restaurants such as the famous Song Fa Bak Kut Te serve up a mean bak kut te, the ubiquitous

pork-rib soup, as long as you don’t mind braving the line. Owing to its multicultural makeup, foodies are spoilt for choice when it comes to ethnic dishes, particularly Indian and Chinese.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

THE LAW OF THE LAND We’ve all heard how in Singapore chewing gum is illegal and spray painting cars will most likely result in lashings. A lesser-known legal scheme is that when a Singaporean citizen works, he or she must contribute about 20 percent of his or her income to the Central Provident Fund (CPF), which is matched by the employer. This money can only be used for very specific purposes, one of which is buying a house. This forced savings plan is one of the reasons that Singapore has a home-ownership rate of around 90 percent. Some would object to such government intervention into personal finances, and by extension, the housing market, but after living in Berlin last year where the housing situation could be succinctly described as a “gong show,” it was nice to learn about this approach.

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32

The Art of Beach Camping Written and photographed by William Urbanski

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

I

’m going to go out on a limb and guess that most people reading this are familiar with the concept of camping: the time-honored tradition of getting together with friends and family to spend an entire weekend arguing over the proper way to set up a tent. While personally I’m still traumatized by forced participation in a number of misguided canoe adventures from my youth, living in Korea has given me the opportunity to confront my demons and re-experience my love for camping. “Camping” is definitely a term that’s adopted different connotations across cultures. In Korea, a familiar sight countrywide is the practice of setting up a tent in a park and hanging out for an afternoon while watching videos on a phone or tablet and ordering take-out. While a pretty relaxing endeavour in itself, it fails to encompass one of the best experiences Korea has to offer: overnight beach camping.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

There are a few different types of camping that one

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might encounter in Korea. On one end of the camping spectrum is renting camping trailers with a picnic table outside. On the opposite end of said spectrum are non-designated beach camping sites and other rugged camping spots. Scoping out a designated campsite close to the water is probably your best bet for a number of reasons. First, depending on the time of year, there’s only a small camping fee, but often there isn’t one at all. Second, most beach areas have access to showers and washrooms, which rates highly on the convenience scale. Another thing to keep in mind is that a lot of beach areas are close to stores and restaurants. So it’s often not necessary to bring a lot of food, and things that are forgotten can usually be picked up. Besides a tent and the requisite blankets, a quintessential piece of camping gear is the gas grill. These can be picked up for anywhere from 10,000–30,000 won. The butane gas canisters are quite cheap as well. Then, all you need is a frying pan from home and the cooking options are limitless.

If you need anything in terms of gear or equipment, your first stop should be Daiso. PRO TIP! While a lot of their camping products are not Daiso is your one-stop “top quality,” they are definitely “appropriate quality,” meaning they’ll last for a camping shop for camping stuff. season or two. Everything from tarps, to chairs, to hammocks can be purchased here for a very reasonable price. GETTING THERE While a car is the best option to get to any camping site, a lot of decent ones are definitely reachable by bus. Among the many options within easy access from U-Square are Goheung, Wando, and Boseong. Yulpo (율포) Beach in Boseong is a lovely beach area located only one hour by car from the city. The beach area, beautiful in itself, also offers what I’d describe as a great “combined” camping experience. It gives you the opportunity to set up a tent on the beach, which feels far removed from the hustle and bustle of the city, all while being a short walk from coffee shops, restaurants, and stores.

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33 PRO TIP! If you ever get bored, how about spending 45 minutes throwing slippers at each other while screaming, just like two kids, 5 meters from my tent did the other weekend?

FIRE AND OTHER CONSIDERATIONS Depending on the location, you may or may not be able to make your own fire. In a lot of beach areas, the common practice is to bring a fire “vat” with comically small pieces of wood. The other option in a lot of beach areas is to collect and burn driftwood. Another thing to keep in mind is that you may not be allowed to use any sort of watercraft. So that means no windsurfing, boating, or skim boards. Be sure to check online before heading out.

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William Urbanski is from Canada and has lived in Korea for about seven years. He’s married to a wonderful Korean woman and can eat spicy food.

June 2019

One last piece of advice: If you’re planning on heading out to the beach, particularly a popular one, plan on arriving early to secure a decent spot. Predictably, a lot of good camping areas tend to get busy, so you can save yourself a lot of trouble by arriving early and enjoying the peace and quiet.

The Author

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

CAMPING ETIQUETTE By all means, go out, have fun, and enjoy yourself, but keep in mind that the sites should be left in as good a condition as they were found in. Or, even better, follow the excellent example recently set by a group of teachers who brought a bunch of garbage bags and used the first camping session of the season as an opportunity to clean up the beach.

Korea is fast-paced and high-tech, but do yourself a favor and at least once hightail it to the beaches to experience some of the best of Jeollanam-do.

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34 Where to Eat

Abiko Curry

FOOD & DRINKS

Written and photographed by Sarah Pittman

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

▲ The outside of the restaurant is styled after a traditional Japanese curry house.

M

any Westerners will think of India when they hear the word “curry,” but the Japanese have a great culinary history of curries as well. This month’s featured restaurant is a favorite neighborhood spot for both me and my partner, not just because of how good the food is, but also because of how nice the owners and staff are. Their smallish, glass-walled restaurant is always crowded in the afternoons and evenings, and their kitchens are constantly bustling with take-out orders as well. The menu at Abiko (아비꼬) offers a wide range of food, from curry and rice bowls, to croquettes and udon (K. 우동). While their menu has some English on it, to order you will need to be able to write in Korean, or one of the waiters or the owner can come over to help you out. For this visit, I wanted to try something new, so I went with

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the gyudon bowl, which is a hot bowl of rice topped with beef, sautéed onions, and fresh scallions, with a raw egg on top. After stirring in the egg to cook it in the steaming rice, I started to tuck in. It was a very comforting and savory dish, and there was a good balance of rice to the meat and onions so that I felt full and satisfied after my meal. Since I was sick that day, I did not feel up to the delicious flavor and strong spice of my regular curry, so this perfectly satisfied me. On any other week though, my order is regular enough that the waiters know it when I walk in: their pork curry set with hashed curry and donkatsu (K. 돈까스). It comes with sides of kimchi radish, pickled tomato, dried garlic, green onion, miso soup, and a drink for 13,500 won. They have four levels of spiciness for their curry, though I never go beyond zero or one. I personally love adding the

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35

▲ The gyudon rice bowl. The beef, rice, and sautéed onion are served in a bowl all together with the raw egg on the side for you to add if you want.

▲ The inside of the restaurant has this cute cherry blossom tree as part of the décor.

dried garlic and fresh green onions because it lends a depth of texture and flavor to the savory curry. If pork curry is not your favorite, there are also the chicken and beef curries to choose from. You can also choose for the set to have the “chicken-katsu” as a substitute for the donkatsu, or forgo the meat altogether. The curry is always served piping hot from the kitchen and almost overflowing from the plate. The texture of their curry is smooth and thick, and combined with their rice, it is so filling that I normally have their set meal as dinner one night and lunch the next day. All in all, the Japanese curry from Abiko is a large and comforting home-style meal that will leave you stuffed to the gills but still craving more. You can find Abiko in Sangmu and in Suwan on the west side of Gwangju. The Sangmu branch is within easy walking distance of the subway, and the Suwan branch is close to the Moa Elgaa Apartment bus stop.

t Daily, 11:00–21:00 P 22 Songdo-ro 85-beon-gil, Gwangsan-gu, Gwangju 광주 서구 상무연하로 19 À 062-384-8859

The Author

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June 2019

▲ There are little figurines stationed all over the restaurant, giving it a cute and fun atmosphere.

Sarah Pittman is an English teacher with a degree in psychology from California State University, Fullerton. She discovered her love for photography while working at Disneyland and has been honing her craft with practice and YouTube videos every since.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

ABIKO 아비꼬 Japanese Curry Restaurant

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www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

FOOD & & DRINKS DRINKS FOOD

36 36 Korean Recipe

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37

Kal-guksu

Knife-Cut Noodles

Written and photographed by Joe Wabe

K

al-guksu (칼국수)is another Korean cuisine jewel. These delicious, handmade, knife-cut wheat flour noodles are usually served in a bowl with a broth that, depending on the style, can be made simply or with more complex ingredients like seafood, kimchi, tuna, or beef. The word 칼 (kal) means “knife” in Korean; therefore, the name derives from the fact that the noodles are cut by hand and not extruded or spun. I fancy having a plate anytime during the year, but in Korea it’s mostly considered a seasonal food that people prefer in summer. There’s a deep-rooted belief in Korea that heat beats heat, so during the dog days of summer, having hot and steamy bowls of soup and noodles can help your body become cooler and somehow revitalized. The history of noodles in Korea can be traced back to the Goryeo Dynasty period (918–1392 A.D.) as a dish that was only eaten on special occasions, since flour was an expensive staple mostly imported from China. According to historical records, the original recipe calls for the noodles to be boiled and rinsed in cold water before adding the broth; however, in the contemporary version, the noodles are boiled together with the broth at the end of the process.

Joe Wabe is an established photographer and Gwangju local business entrepreneur. He has been contributing to the GIC and the Gwangju News for more than eight years.

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• • • • • • • • • •

2 teaspoons of anchovy stock ½ teaspoon of minced garlic 300 grams of kal-guksu noodles 6 cups of water 1 chopped zucchini ½ carrot cut into long strips 4 shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced a few cleaned clams a small green onion, chopped dried laver (김, gim) for garnish

Preparation Boil the water at medium heat. Add the anchovy stock and minced garlic. Once the stock is boiling, add the zucchini, carrots, and mushrooms, and cook until lightly softened. Add the clams and cook for about three minutes. At the same time, cook the noodles in a different pot. Let the water boil, then add the noodles and cook for three minutes. Be careful not to overcook the noodles or they will become too chewy. Drain and rinse the noodles with cold water, then add them to the stock and cook for an extra two minutes. Serve and garnish with crushed dried laver (gim) and green onions on top.

June 2019

The Author

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

There are different variations of kal-guksu, but my favorite is haemul kal-guksu (해물칼국수, seafood and knife-cut noodles). Although making the noodles at home is not so difficult, it does require more time, as it’s a lengthy process, so I usually pick up a package of pre-made noodles from the store. That saves me about 1½ hours, allowing more focus on the making of the broth. This dish is simple to make and is very filling, so few, if any, complementary dishes are necessary. However, to enhance the taste, some kimchi on the side will help you enjoy the experience at its fullest. Happy start of summer!

Ingredients (Two servings)

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38 Korea TESOL

The Problems Facing EFL Teachers Agony Uncle “Dr. Dave” Provides Some Solutions

EDUCATION

Written by Dr. David E. Shaffer

About a decade ago, the Gwangju News carried an advice column on teaching English in Korea, with David Shaffer (aka, “Dr. Dave”) as the agony uncle. That column, “Letters to Korea TESOL,” enjoyed a two-year run. This concept has been resurrected for this one-off appearance in the present Korea TESOL column. — Ed.

EARLY ENGLISH Dear Dr. Dave: I think it is hard for children to speak English very well without first being proficient in Korean. So I think young children have to spend more time learning Korean before they are ready to learn English. What do you think? — Mother of Yeong-won

LACK OF INTEREST Dear Dr. Dave: My students do not seem to be interested in anything. They get bored easily in my speaking class. I do not know what teaching methods are appropriate for my middle school students. I do not have confidence in teaching speaking. What should I do? — Noh Che-mi Dear Miss Noh: All students have things that they are interested in, and they will stay on-task as long as they are interested. It is the job of the teacher to find out what their students’ interests are and to provide learning materials and activities that match these interests and hold their interest. Regardless of age or proficiency level, there are three general reasons for students to be bored with a class or course: (a) the materials are not interesting, (b) the teaching methods are not interesting or effective, and (c) the teacher is uninteresting or seemingly uninterested in the students. To solve the first, the teacher can conduct a needs analysis by asking the students what their interests

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

Dear Yeong-won’s Mother: Learning an additional language has very little relationship to one’s level of proficiency in their first language. It is a myth to think that language learners must master their first language before they begin learning a second language. It is also a myth to think that beginning to learn a second language at a young age will interfere with a child’s development in their first language. In many parts of the world, children grow up in bilingual or multilingual speech communities and learn two or more languages from a very young

age without any negative effects. In fact, research has shown that children who learn a second language at a young age excel in their other subjects at school, such as mathematics, and have better critical thinking and analytical skills. — Bilingually yours, Dr. Dave

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39 are and then preparing teaching materials accordingly. To solve the second, the teacher should be sure to incorporate much interactive activity into each lesson, not only teacher–student interaction, but lots of student– student interaction, too. For the third, the teacher needs to show enthusiasm in what they are teaching and in their students. Teacher interest will convert into student interest. — Enthusiastically yours, Dr. Dave ELEMENTARY WRITING Dear Dr. Dave: Could you help me? I know how important writing is for the students. But I find it very difficult to make writing materials interesting for my students, especially elementary school students, as it is so challenging for them to write anything in English. What can I do? — Cho Deung Seonsaeng

Dear Dr. Dave: What is the best way to correct students’ grammar mistakes in conversation class without halting the flow of the students’ speech? The students are adult and roughly intermediate level. — Noh In Seonsaeng

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David Shaffer is vice-president of the Gwangju-Jeonnam Chapter of Korea TESOL (KOTESOL). On behalf of the chapter, he invites you to participate in the teacher development workshops at their monthly meetings (always on a Saturday). For many years, Dr. Shaffer has been a professor of English Language at Chosun University. He is a long-time member of KOTESOL and a holder of various KOTESOL positions; at present he is national president. Dr. Shaffer credits KOTESOL for much of his professional development in English language teaching, scholarship, and leadership. He encourages you to get involved. He is board chair at the Gwangju International Center and also editor-in-chief of the Gwangju News.

GWANGJU-JEONNAM KOTESOL MONTHLY MEETING Date: June 8 (Saturday) Place: Gwangju National University of Education • Presentation: Behavior Management in the EFL Classroom by Nicole Domay (Ulsan Public Schools, Ulsan) • Workshop: Decolonizing Pedagogies: Some practical examples from intercultural educators in Korea by Dr. Kevin Kester (Keimyung University, Daegu) • SwapShop: Share with the group your activity, teaching idea, etc. For full event details: Website: koreatesol.org/gwangju Facebook: Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL

June 2019

Dear Teacher Noh: At times, it is best not to correct. Speaking activities can generally be divided into two types: fluency-promoting (ease of flow) and accuracypromoting (absence of errors) activities. Accuracy activities are usually more guided, designed to elicit the grammatical forms that the lesson is focusing on. During

The Author

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Dear Teacher Cho: We have to be careful not to have overly difficult writing expectations of beginning young learners. Making materials interesting hinges on topics that children are interested in and activities that they enjoy doing. For example, children like eating, and they like drawing and coloring. For beginners, you could have them draw a picture of a food they like, write the name of the food underneath (“pizza,” “potato chips,” etc.), and then color the picture. For more advanced young learners, you could have them “write a book.” Title the book (a single sheet of paper folded in half) “Foods I Like,” and have the students draw a picture of a food that they like on each remaining page. Under each food picture, have them write the sentence “I like _______” or something similar, filling in the blank with the name of the food. With time and practice, less scaffolding will be necessary. This repetition of patterns is quite beneficial in learning. When the students are finished making their books, have them read their books to the class, praise them, and then display their books on the classroom bulletin board or on the wall to instill pride and confidence in your students. As students progress, more pages can be added, more text can be added, more student-created text can be required, colored pictures can become penciled graphics, graphics can decrease as text increases, and subject material can become freer. — Illustratively yours, Dr. Dave

accuracy activity practice is generally the best time to correct student errors. During fluency activity practice, since the aim is to improve the flow of speech, it is usually better to refrain from making corrections. Common mistakes can be addressed at the end of the activity as a whole-class session. When making corrections (in an accuracy activity), there are a number of explicit and implicit ways to correct students. Which you choose will depend on proficiency levels and individual student personalities. Some students prefer immediate, explicit correction; others will ignore it. I usually prefer immediate correction where I indicate that something is not understood but let them try to figure out what it was and how to correct it. For example, if a student produced “Yesterday I goed downtown,” I might say “Yesterday I … (what?)” or “What did you do?” or simply “Again?” Do not try to correct everything. Grammar that is still beyond students’ proficiency level should be left for later. — Erroneously yours, Dr. Dave

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40 40

TOPIK Guide (topikguide.com) is the most comprehensive website devoted to the TOPIK exam. It’s been helping Korean language learners pass the TOPIK (Test of Proficiency in Korean) for more than seven years. On this website, you can get all the TOPIK updates, grammar and vocabulary material, and study tips.

Everyday Korean Episode 18: 해수욕장

The Beach

Written by Harsh Kumar Mishra

EDUCATION

Illustration by Han Lee

아나: Ana:

수영복은 온라인보다 직접 보고 사는 게 좋지. 근데 왜 갑자기 수영복은?

아나:

여름이니까 해수욕장 놀러가고 싶어서요. 언니가 가깝고 좋은 해수욕장 추천해 주세요.

[Su-yeong-bo-geun ol-lain-boda jik-jeop bo-go sa-neun ge jo-chi. Geun-de wae gap-jjagi su-yeong-bok-eun?] Jeong-min: It’s better to go and buy one directly than online. But why are you suddenly buying a swimsuit?

정민:

June 2019

[Su-yeong-bo-geul ol-lain-shyo-ping-mo-re-seo sa-neun ge jo-eul-kkayo?] Is it good to buy a swimsuit online?

정민:

Ana:

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

수영복은 온라인 쇼핑몰에서 사는게 좋을까요?

[Yeo-reumi-nikka hae-su-yok-jjang nol-leo-gago shi-peo-seo-yo. Eon-ni-ga gakka-p-kko jo-eun hae-su-yok-jjang chu-cheon-hae ju-seyo.] It’s just that it’s summer, and I really want to go to the beach. Please, (Big Sister), recommend a good beach nearby.

오호! 좋아 좋아, 광주에서 가까운 곳으로는 돌머리 해수욕장, 율포해수욕장과 가마미해수욕장 세 군데가 있어.

[Oho! joa joa. Gwangju-e-seo gak-kkaun go-seu-ro-neun dol-meori hae-su-yok-jjang, yulpo hae-su-yok-jjang-gwa gamami-hae-su-yok-jjang se gunde-ga is-seo.] Jeong-min: Oh! That sounds great. There are three beaches near Gwangju: Dolmeori Beach, Yulpo Beach, and Gamami Beach.

아나: Ana:

정민:

저도 율포는 가 봤어요. [Jeo-do yulpo-neun ga bwa-sseo-yo.] I’ve been to Yulpo Beach.

난 개인적으로 가마미가 좋아. 물이 깨끗해서 호남 3대 해수욕장 중 하나로 꼽힌 해수욕장이야.

[Na-neun gae-in-jeo-geuro gamami-ga joa. Mu-ri kkae-kkeut-hae-seo ho-nam sam-dae hae-su-yok-jjang jung ha-na-ro kkop-hin hae-su-yok-jjangi-ya.] Jeong-min: I personally like going to Gamami. Because the water is clean, it’s one of the three major beaches in the Honam region.

아나:

정말이요? 그럼 저는 가마미 해수욕장으로 갈래요.

Ana:

[Jeong-mal-i-yo? Geu-reom jeo-neun gamami-hae-su-yok-jjangeu-ro gal-rae-yo.] Really? Then I’ll go to Gamami this time.

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Grammar

~(으)려면: This grammar pattern expresses the meaning “If (one) intends to ~”. Ex: 은행계좌를 개설하려면 외국등록증이 필요해요. If you intend to open a bank account, you need to have an alien registration card.

~(으)ㄹ 거예요: This is attached to verb and adjective stems to make the future tense. Ex: 저는 내일 부산에 갈 거예요. I’m going to Busan tomorrow.

Vocabulary

해수욕장 beach 수영복 swimsuit 갑자기 suddenly 가깝다 nearby 추천하다 to recommend 개인적으로 personally; privately 꼽히다 to be chosen 깨끗하다 to be clean

#Korean slang/ Fad words Understanding Korean emoticons 서핑 Surfing 쪼리 Flip-flops 선크림 Sunscreen 선탠 Suntan

Visit the TOPIK Guide website or our YouTube channel to improve your Korean and reach your goal on the TOPIK test.

2019-05-27 �� 5:31:42


Book Review 41

Joseph Boyden Explores the Voices of a Nation “We Are This Place. This Place Is Us” Written by Kristy Dolson

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Boyden takes great care to represent each voice in a balanced way throughout the novel. It is left to the reader to weigh the voices separately and as a whole before forming an opinion on the people involved and the outcome of the events – both fictional and real. After all, this is our story and our legacy. We cannot go back. We can only go forward by acting on the lessons we have learned.

The Author

Kristy Dolson lived in South Korea for five years before taking a year off to travel, read, and spend time with her family in Canada and Australia. She holds a Bachelor of Education and now lives in Yeosu, where she splits her time between teaching at the new Jeollanamdo International Education Institute and reading as much as she can.

June 2019

Boyden does not shy away from facts. There was cruelty and ignorance on all sides. No one was perfect and no one lived in an idyllic paradise. These people were human. They were morally complex, and so were the relationships they formed. After being confronted by an ugly truth about the Frenchmen who joined him, Christophe ponders the worthiness of the Europeans and their reasons for coming to the New World. Through his struggle, Boyden reminds us that the people in our distant past were very much like the people of today: flawed and easily manipulated.

The book is divided into three parts, and each part begins with a half page of narration. This narration is presumably a contemporary look back on the historical events. It invites the reader to think more deeply about the past and its impact on current-day relationships. This technique also reminds readers that history is a story – an artificial construction told by the survivors. History in turn becomes our present, and the story never ends. We invite others in by adding new voices and new perspectives. The more diverse the story becomes, the more people can connect with it.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

In this historical fiction, a sprawling epic told in heartbreaking detail, the reader follows Christophe, Bird, and Snow Falls as they live out the early days of first contact among the French and the aboriginals of 17th century Canada. Christophe is a Jesuit priest sent to convert the indigenous populations. His journey brings him to a Huron village, where he finds an ally in Bird, a Huron warrior, and a possible disciple in Snow Falls, a young Iroquois girl taken from her people by Bird on a revenge strike in an ongoing conflict between the two great nations. Over the course of this massive 490-page book, our three protagonists will come together, fall apart, and come back together in their desperation to survive the cruelties of human desire and the harsh realities of the natural world.

The religious and economic convictions at the heart of this book may make for controversial discussions among readers, but they are discussions worth having because they inform our present and our future.

ARTS & CULTURE

I

n Canada, June is National Aboriginal History Month, and the indigenous peoples of North America have a rich and diverse history and culture. I would like to honor that by reviewing Joseph Boyden’s bestselling novel, The Orenda. It brings to life and explores a critical moment in that history through the experiences of three intertwining cultures: the French, the Huron, and the Iroquois.

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42 Photo Essay

Mountain Azaleas

Heralding the Spring Transformation of the Korean Landscape

ARTS & CULTURE

Written and photographed by Steve Robinson

▲ Mountain mist and azaleas on Hwangmae Mountain.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

F

rom the brown and barren tundra-like conditions of winter to the lush vibrant colors of spring, the transformation of the Korean landscape in April and May is quite magical. The blooming of the cherry blossoms is the first wave of color and aesthetic beauty to grace the towns and countryside. This delightful gift of nature has both Koreans and expats flocking out with their cameras to document the blossoms in many famous and not-so-famous locations. What follows almost immediately after the blossoms is the blooming of the azaleas on the Korean mountains. This is maybe a little less known and less publicized, but it’s my favorite subject to photograph in Korea. Whether it’s in my hometown of Jinju or at a more famous location such as Hwangmae Mountain, where a two-week azalea festival is held, I just love to get out and capture these beautiful flowers. My preferred time is around sunrise and sunset, as the light on the flowers and the general mountain scene can be truly breathtaking. Sometimes I’m lucky enough to get some mist or clouds drifting across the mountains, which just adds to the wonderful and ethereal scene.

The Author

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Steve Robinson is a native English-speaking teacher from Durham in the UK who is currently residing in Jinju. He has been living in Korea for seven years, mostly teaching in public schools. It was during his time in Korea when photography became a real passion for him, so he began to take it far more seriously. There’s so much diverse and colorful beauty to be found in Korea, especially in spring and autumn. Although Steve thoroughly enjoys his life here in Korea, he’s planning to move back to the UK at the end of the year to do at least a year’s worth of full-time photography there, capturing the diverse beauty of northern England, where he grew up. For more photos, please visit his website at www.steverobinsonphotos.com.

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43

▲ Sunset at Hwangmae Mountain.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

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June 2019

▲ Jinju sunrise over azaleas on Seonhak Mountain.

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4444

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

Azaleas on Hwangmae Mountain.

Sunset at Hwangmae Mountain.

2019�6��.indd 44

2019-05-27 �� 5:31:54


45

The author shooting azaleas on Hwangmae Mountain.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

Hwangmae Mountain twilight.

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2019-05-27 �� 5:32:00


46 Gwangju Writes

The Ferryboat and the Traveler

Written by Han Yong-un 한용운 (1926) Translated by David E. Shaffer

나룻배와 행인

ARTS & CULTURE

I am a ferryboat, And you a traveler. With soiled foot, on me you tread. Embracing you, the water I cross. While embracing you, whether deep or shallow, or swift the current, I cross. Even though you may not come, exposed to the winds and pelted by rain or snow, through the night and through the day, I wait for you. Once the water is crossed, without so much as a glance back at me, you continue on your way. Yet I am sure that one day you shall return. Day after day while waiting for you, old and worn I grow. I am a ferryboat, And you a traveler.

나는 나룻배 당신은 행인 당신은 흙발로 나를 짓밟습니다. 나는 당신을 안고 물을 건너갑니다.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

나는 당신을 안으면 깊으나 옅으나 급한 여울이나

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건너갑니다. 만일 당신이 아니 오시면 나는 바람을 쐬고 눈비를 맞으며 밤에서 낮까지 당신을 기다립니다. 당신은 물만 건너면 나를 돌아 보지도 않고 가십니다 그려. 그러나 당신이 언제든지 오실 줄만은 알아요. 나는 당신을 기다리면서 날마다 날마다 낡아 갑니다. 나는 나룻배 당신은 행인 (1926)

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47

The Poem and the Poet

F

or a man who lived such a turbulent life, one can only marvel at how Han Yong-un could have written such serene and subdued poetry as “The Ferryboat and the Traveler.” Han Yong-un (1879–1944) received a Buddhist education and entered the priesthood at an early age, taking the Buddhist name “Manhae,” which he is also widely known by. Poetry was not much a part of Manhae’s early years. Around the turn of the century, he participated in the Tonghak Peasant Rebellion. With Japanese annexation of Korea in 1910, he fled to Manchuria, and later Siberia, where he participated in Korean independence activities before his return three years later.

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Waiting, as the connecting thread between parting and reunion, is the common interpretation of this poem. However, considering Manhae’s past, it can also be taken to express the desire to be a “ferryman” for his countrymen and his fellowman. Manhae’s poetry is religiously as well as artistically inspired. His Buddhist beliefs are evident. The forbearance of the ferryboat typifies the patient waiting of every Bodhisattva, postponing Nirvana to help others attain enlightenment. The message so beautifully expressed in “The Ferryboat and the Traveler” is timeless: Human love may be transformed into the divine love of compassion.

The Author

Dr. David E. Shaffer is a long-time resident of Gwangju who was for many years a professor at Chosun University. He is now the board chair of the Gwangju International Center and editor-in-chief of the Gwangju News. He has written extensively on English teaching and learning, and has published books on Korean language, poetry, and traditional culture. Dr. Shaffer was also the 1994 top prize winner of The Korea Times’ Modern Korean Literature Translation Awards in the poetry division.

June 2019

In this lovely poem, the poetic “I” and “you” are represented by the ferryboat and the traveler, respectively. Expressed is the essence of true love, revealing itself through sacrifice and forbearance for one’s love. No matter how difficult the circumstances, the ferryboat dependably and faithfully carries out its duty. Even when stepped on or when the crossing becomes exacting, the ferryboat is pleased to be of service (“While embracing

Without appreciation or recognition for the ferryboat’s efforts, the traveler goes on, but as is the case with true love, the ferryboat waits, confident of the traveler’s return.

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In 1919, Manhae became one of the thirty-three framers of Korea’s Declaration of Independence. For this, Manhae was imprisoned by the Japanese for three years. After his release from prison, for a time he devoted himself largely to the writing of Buddhist works, novels, and poetry. “The Ferryboat and the Traveler” appeared in Manhae’s muchread 1926 collection of poetry The Silence of My Love (님의 침묵).

you …”), much like the compassion of the dutiful woman to her man in traditional Korea.

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48

CROSSWORD PUZZLE

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

ARTS & CULTURE

Created by Jon Dunbar

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This issue of the Gwangju News is bringing to you our first-ever crossword puzzle for your enjoyment. Jon Dunbar has created the crossword especially for our Gwangju News readership. You will notice this as some of the clues are Gwangju-specific. Good luck! – Ed.

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49

1 7 11 14 15 16 17 18 20 21 23 24 29 32 33 34 37 39 41 42 43 44 47 49 50 51 52 53 56 59 60 64 68 70 71 72 73 74 75

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 19 22 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 34 35 36 38 39 40 42 45 46 47 48 51 53 54 55 56 57 58 61 62 63 65 66 67 69

Sokcho mountain Falsehoods Elderly woman Accuse “Or ___” Foreign aid Click beetle The First ____ Angelou or Rudolph Paddle Sesame Street character Major Gwangju street Economic stat Place for a cat to sit Goes with man or offs “___ humbug!” Alternative to Roman numerals Gwangju’s secondhand store Volcanic rock Total amount Leader’s title in Dubai Major Gwangju art event Korean seaweed wrap The ___ and outs Model Sora, no judgment “The Hangover” actor Jeong Wily Tigers’ ___ Field As well “The Big Bang Theory” character Cotton swab Buddhist temple in Gwangju Outfits with Eggs Budae-jjigae, for one Phobos’ twin Haven’t got a ___ to stand on In the near future Weirdest

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Coesmetic store, The ___ Singer Fitzgerald Oil of ____ Apply a new price Korean one is different from Western “On the Road” writer Jack Study Unwell TOEIC taker’s class Look at Wolf noise Driver or Sandler “___ Top 10” Bong-hun or Min-jeong Guitarist’s plugin Roth or Lilly Graduate of your school Blemish Dodgers’ Hyun-jin Korean ribs dish Shower stall feature Cements over Blows up Times New Roman alternative Birdlike monster ___ Ki-moon Amount owed Opposite of US GOP Skinny Opposite of yeah K-pop girl group Okpo locale Place to spend the night Korean carmaker Machine wheel Big shrimp Calamari ingredient Disobedient soldier BTS’ “Fake ___” Inconvenience What a clock measures Stock market launches Quiet noise to get someone’s attention Donkey VisitKorea.or.kr website operator Tai-ji or Hyun-jin Mathematician’s closing argument

June 2019

DOWN

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

ACROSS

2019-05-27 �� 5:32:03


50 Opinion

The State of Liberal Democracy 39 Years After the Gwangju Democratic Uprising Written by Hyung Jun You

OPINION

T

he May 18 Gwangju Democratic Uprising became a symbol of freedom and a kindling light of liberty that guided other cities in Korea and Southeast Asia to realize the virtues of democratic rights. These virtues include the freedoms of speech, press, religion, and movement. They also include a government that respects the political and civil rights of its citizens. Just one generation later, democracy is in retreat due to multiple reasons. These include ever-widening income inequality, weak economic growth, and low faith in political institutions.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

Before going into my full-throated defense for liberal democracy, we first need to define it. We know that not all democracies are the same. Many political scientists label Russia’s democracy as illiberal and Norway’s as liberal. Democracy in the Philippines under President Duterte is becoming more illiberal compared to Tunisia, where they have achieved remarkable steps in improving their democratic institutions. So, what makes liberal democracies different from other democracies? WHAT EXACTLY IS LIBERAL DEMOCRACY? Broadly speaking, liberal democracy incorporates four concepts: democracy, the republican principle, constitutionalism, and liberalism. Democracy is more than just ballot boxes and majoritarian decisions. A democratic government must provide equal political and civil rights for all of its citizens, and citizenship should be inclusive. Therefore, everyone has an equal voice and influence on public matters. The republican principle, famously championed by John Locke and Jean-Jacques Rousseau, and expanded upon by Robert Dahl, states that only the people, through popular sovereignty, can rightly and justly form a government. Constitutionalism, through writings, establishes an

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enduring structure of formal institutional power. The constitution provides an organized power that brings forth the basis for the conduct of public life, and its “enduring” factor is that it is designed to make any amendments difficult. The constitution also lays out the boundaries of constraining power on political institutions. The constitution also illustrates how the public can limit the government’s reach. How much should the public limit that reach? Liberalism answers that question. Political scientist William Galston said it best when he said that liberalism is “recognizing and protecting a sphere beyond the rightful reach of government in which individuals can enjoy independence and privacy … If all human beings are endowed with ‘certain unalienable rights’ that governments do not create and individuals may not surrender, then the republican principle can authorize only forms of government that upholds these rights.” Liberal democracy has the characteristics of majoritarianstyle democracy, organized through a constitution, and has a republican principle. It also limits majoritarianism through liberal principles, such as having supermajority requirements to restrict majority power. Liberal order can also use the constitution or the supreme court, which cannot be swayed by public pressure, to make sure the majority does not harm the minority. THE STATE OF LIBERAL DEMOCRACY UNDER A POPULIST MOVEMENT Today, liberal democracy is under threat by a populist movement. Populists have a narrow view on democracy, that only the majoritarian opinion rules. In that sense, populists should not be a threat to democracy because they simply want to see their popular preferences translated into public policy. The way they see it, the current political order does not reflect the people’s mindset. The “elites” have taken over important policy decisions concerning

2019-05-27 �� 5:32:03


51 immigration, economic, and cultural issues. Therefore, the masses should retake the government from them. The problem with this view, that populists are not a threat to democracy, is twofold. First, it is extremely divisive. By dividing the country with an “us against them” mentality, it implies that some people do not deserve citizenship because they are not part of the “people.” This goes against the idea of inclusive citizenship, which is the core principle of democracy. Second, the idea that populist movements are unified under one voice and one idea, thereby justifying their actions, is contradictory towards another core democratic principle – equal political and civil rights for every citizen. If populists want to offer liberties, such as freedom of speech and movement, then they have to allow different voices to be heard. People are rarely unified. Different interest groups have varied political and social goals that they want to achieve, and even within interest groups there are divisions on which direction to go. As Robert Dahl suggested decades ago, pluralism defines the people in a democratic society. So, how can we stem the tide of populist movements and properly defend and promote liberal democracies worldwide? FIGHTING FOR LIBERAL DEMOCRACY First, we need to uphold liberal institutions. This means that the government and its citizens need to be a willing guardian for freedom of the press, an independent judiciary, and the rule of law. These three factors keep a liberal democracy in check and make sure it is not backsliding towards illiberalism. Public institutions across liberal democratic societies should also go through political reforms both to prevent gridlocks that lead to a slow government response and to root out corrupt politicians. We need to follow the advice of Joseph Nye, namely, that if people are losing faith in liberal democracies, we need to be better examples ourselves.

DO NOT GIVE UP THE GOOD FIGHT The good news is that liberal democracy will not wither away. The best part about liberal democracy, and democracies in general, is its capacity for self-correction. This self-correcting system is what has kept democracies alive throughout centuries of political turmoil. We have to pick up the baton left by Gwangju protestors and continue fighting for liberal democratic values because we are heirs to that proud legacy of freedom. We must use every democratic right in our arsenal to preserve liberal values by beefing up laws on judicial independence and freedom of the press, voting out politicians who do not adhere to the rule of law, and encouraging diverse public debate. The greatest strength of democracy is its management of complexity rather than providing simple answers to seemingly unsolvable problems. Do not give up the good fight because we are heirs of those student protestors, mothers, and fathers who fought against armed soldiers. Never forget that.

The Author

Hyung Jun You is a recent graduate from Loyola Marymount University in L.A. majoring in international relations and minoring in journalism. His areas of research are in human rights, democracy promotion, and Southeast/East Asian politics. He has been published in the Cornell International Affairs Review and the SIR Journal of International Relations.

June 2019

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Liberal democracy certainly lost some soft power in the past three decades. In the 1970s, democratic countries generated most of the world’s gross domestic product. Now, it has fallen below half and the International Monetary Fund says that it will go down to a third within ten years. Populist parties have exploited this economic stagnation and turned it into a vicious movement that threatens liberal democracies. They have picked scapegoats for their economic problems, like the influx of immigrants or economic liberalization, and say that they can fix all of it by bypassing democratic principles.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Second, we must differentiate between diverse views on policies and threats to democratic institutions. International organizations and free trade deals such as the World Trade Organization and the North American Free Trade Agreement have always been controversial, resulting in diverse opinions. To say that a populist party’s hostility towards established international world order and trade deals is an illiberal act is premature. Even on cultural issues, such as same-sex marriage and immigration, liberal democratic society can have various views while adhering to its democratic creed. Advocating for better border control is not a threat to liberal democracy, nor is championing for more acceptance of refugees who are fleeing from poverty, violence, and war. These are policy disputes among societies, and we should welcome these diverse views and try to raise the level of

public debate. A true liberal democratic society is not a united one. This aspect is so important that Seymour Lipset lays it out in the very first page of his acclaimed book, Political Man. He stated that a “stable democracy requires the manifestation of conflict or cleavage so that there will be struggle over ruling positions, challenges to parties in power, and shifts of parties in office.”

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52

Gwangju Happenings Compiled by Baek Ji-yeon

MONTHLY NEWS

2019 Gwangju Fringe Festival 2019 광주 프린지 페스티벌

1930양림쌀롱

The Fringe Festival, a cultural festival of Gwangju, the city of cultural and arts, will be held every Saturday from April to December. It is an open-air cultural event where amateur and professional artists as well as citizens participate freely without being bound by genre, format, or fixed frame, and stage various presentations such as performances, mimes, dance, and K-pop.

The “1930 Yangnim Salon” is a multi-cultural festival that takes place in Yangnim-dong, a modern historical and cultural neighborhood, with various cultural venues and unique cafes in the program. Started in 2016, this year marks the fourth year for the “Salon” to be held. In the “1930 Yangnim Salon,” Gwangju’s “Modern” theme is featured in various programs such as performances, exhibitions, literature, markets, and fashion. This year, the romantic season, a.k.a. art season, a.k.a. theme event will be held six times in total.

t April–December (every Saturday) P Along Geumnam-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju

₩ Free (paid programs are optional) À 062-223-0410 ` http://fringefestival.kr/

2019 Art Night Daein Market 2019 대인예술야시장 Every Saturday beginning April 26, you will be able to see various handmade products, such as accessory DIY products, sold by night market sellers composed of artists and young people while enjoying experiences, food, and other themed performances. t Every Saturday beginning April 26 P Daein Market’s 1st parking lot,

7-1 Jebong-ro 194-beon-gil, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주 동구 제봉로 194번길 7-1 대인시장 제1주차장

₩ Depends on activity. À 062-223-1420 ` https://daeinmarket.modoo.at/

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

1930 Yangnim Salon

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Jayeon Saenghwal Vegetarian Restaurant

t April–August P 27-2 Yangchon-gil, Nam-gu, Gwangju

Yangnim Travel Lounge ₩ Depends on activity. À 070-4239-5040 ` http://salon1930.com/

Shining Street, Art Street Gung-dong 빛나는 거리, 예술로 궁동 This year’s street festival will be held on October 26 under the theme of “Shining Streets, Art Street Gung-dong.” The festival will be held 20 times during the day and ten times during the evening. A small art market and an “art and marketplace” will also be held, offering small, fun ideas and rich sights. It is a program that citizens can participate in, including activities such as “Do Not Worry, You! (Art Psychotherapy),” a QR code to explore every corner of “Digital Experiences,” and activities to write a message of hope called “Express Your Wish!” t April 20 - October 26 P Along Art Street, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주 동구 궁동 예술의 거리 일대

₩ Depends on activity. ` https://blog.naver.com/butterflyart

자연생활채식뷔페

Seoseok-ro 85beongil 12, Dong-gu, Gwangju 062-228-0482, 0485

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53 53 Namdo Arts: Roots 남도미술_뿌리 This exhibition is an opportunity for citizens to see valuable works of the National Museum of Contemporary Art, which have never before been exhibited in the GwangjuHonam region. Through this exhibition, it is possible to realize the cultural identity of South Korea and to expand public awareness of South Jeolla Province by showing the contribution of works by local artists to Korean art history. t April 2 – June 8, 10:00–18:00 P 52 Haseo-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju

(Gwangju Museum of Art, Exhibition Halls 1 & 2) 광주 북구 하서로 52 광주시립미술관 본관 제1, 2 전시실

₩ Free À 062-613-7100 ` http://artmuse.gwangju.go.kr/

Masterpieces of Cizhou Ware from China: The Art of Black and White 중국 자주요 도자 명품전 - 흑백의 향연 The Gwangju National Museum presents this exhibition of Cizhou ceramics as part of the World Ceramics Culture Exhibition. In this exhibition, visitors can learn about the history of ceramics in the early 20th century from the Jiayuan period of Hebei Province, China. t May 28 – August 18 P 110 Haseo-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju

(Gwangju National Museum)

광주 북구 하서로 110 광주국립박물관 기획전시실

₩ TBA À 062-570-7034 ` https://gwangju.museum.go.kr/

Korean History Through Manhwa 2019 민주인권평화전 만화로 보는 대한민국

t March 19 – June 30, 10:00–18:00 P 52 Haseo-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju

(Gwangju Museum of Art, Exhibition Halls 3 & 4)

₩ Free À 062-613-7100 ` http://artmuse.gwangju.go.kr/

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International Symposium of Electronic Arts (ISEA 2019) The 25th anniversary of the International Electronic Arts Symposium (ISEA) will be held at the Gwangju Asia Culture Center in June. It will be held from June 22 to 28 for seven days under the theme of “Lux Aeterna,” which means “eternal light.” ISEA International is a nonprofit organization founded in 1988 in the Netherlands to promote exchange between culturally diverse organizations and individuals as a place for interdisciplinary discussions across art, science, and technology, as well as for running exhibitions, performances, and residencies. The Symposium is held annually. About 1,000 artists and experts from visual arts, electronic music, design, and engineering from more than 50 countries will be visiting this year’s event. t June 22–28

₩ Depends on activity. ` http://isea2019.isea-international.org

ACC Cinematheque ACC 시네마테크 ACC Cinematheque is a collection of film and video programs from film and video archives that will allow you to meet a variety of visual performances, such as experimental films, media arts, independent documentaries, and international film festival films, that cannot be found in traditional commercial cinemas. t May 8 – July 28 (Specific dates vary, please check

website for movie schedule.)

P Culture Information B3, Theater 3 문화정보원 B3 극장3

₩ Free

Richard Yeongjae O’Neill Viola Recital [슈퍼클래식] 리처드 용재 오닐 비올라 리사이틀 This program features pianist Jeremy Denk who is famous for his love of Korean classical music together with violist Richard Yongjae O’Neill and Joshua Bell. t June 11, 7:30 p.m. P Theater 1 극장1

₩ R seats 70,000 won, S seats 50,000 won, A seats 30,000 won

June 2019

광주 북구 하서로 52 광주시립미술관 본관 제3, 4 전시실

P 38 Munhwa-jeondang-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju (Asia Culture Center) À 1899-5566 ` http://acc.go.kr

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

This is an exhibition of the modern and contemporary history of Korea through manhwa (만화, comic books). This is an exhibition of the “ninth art” genre (cartoons), which helps to communicate to the public the somewhat heavy themes of democracy, human rights, and peace. The exhibition consists of three sections: the Anti-Japanese Movement, Modern History, and Human Rights.

ACC Events

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Gwangju Theater P 62 Chungjang-ro 5-ga, Dong-gu, Gwangju (Two blocks behind NC Wave) ₩ 8,000 won À 062-224-5858 ` http://cafe.naver.com/cinemagwangju (Korean) * Synopses excerpted from Wikipedia, IMDb, and Hancinema. All English language films are presented with Korean subtitles; non-English international films are presented with Korean subtitles only.

AMANDA 쁘띠 아만다

Genre: Drama Director: Mikhaël Hers Film Length: 107 minutes Language: French (Korean subtitles) Starring: Vincent Lacoste, Isaure Multrier, Stacy Martin After his sister is brutally killed, David finds himself in charge of his sevenyear-old niece, Amanda.

CHE: PART ONE 체 게바라:1부 아르헨티나 Genre: Drama Director: Steven Soderbergh Film Length: 126 minutes Languages: Spanish, English (Korean subtitles) Starring: Julia Ormond, Benicio Del Toro, Oscar Isaac The Argentine begins as Che and a band of Cuban exiles (led by Fidel Castro) reach the Cuban shore from Mexico in 1956. Within two years, they mobilized popular support and an army, and toppled the U.S.-friendly regime of dictator Fulgencio Batista.

CHE: PART TWO 체 게바라:2부 게릴라

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

Genre: Documentary Director: Steven Soderbergh Film Length: 80 minutes Languages: Spanish, English (Korean subtitles) Starring: Demián Bichir, Rodrigo Santoro, Benicio Del Toro In 1965, Ernesto “Che” Guevara resigns from his Cuban government posts to secretly make his latest attempt to spread the revolution in Bolivia. After arriving in La Paz, Bolivia, late in 1966, by 1967 Che, along with several Cuban volunteers, has raised a small guerrilla army to take on the militarist Bolivian movement. However, Che must face grim realities about his few troops and supplies, his failing health, and a local population that largely does not share the idealistic aspirations of a foreign troublemaker. As the U.S.-supported Bolivian army prepares to defeat him, Che and his beleaguered force struggle against the increasingly hopeless odds.

A BOY AND SUNGREEN 보희와 녹양 Genre: Drama Director: Ahn Juyoung Film Length: 99 minutes Language: Korean (No subtitle) Starring: Ahn Ji-ho, Kim Joo-ah, Seo Hyun-woo A fragile, sensitive boy lives in a tough world. His mother named him Bohee (similar pronunciation to that of female genitalia), and it was inevitable that he would get bullied. Nok-yang (“Green”), a strong-willed girl, is Bohee’s best friend. Bo-hee finds out that his mother has a boyfriend, and that

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his supposedly dead father is alive. He sets out to find his father with Nok-yang. His life is suddenly flooded with new people, including his father’s friends, his cousin, and her boyfriend. Using the clues given by each of these people, Bo-hee comes closer to tracking down his father.

SPECIAL SCREENING OF AGNES VARDA’S MOVIES JUNE 5–16 Movies to be screened: La Pointe Courte (1955 drama, 86 mins.), Cleo From 5 To 7 (1962 drama, 90 mins.), Happiness (1965 drama, 77 mins.), Lions Love (1969 comedy drama, 110 mins.), One Sings, The Other Doesn’t (1976 drama, 120 min.), Jane B. par Agnes V (1988 fantasy, 97 mins.), Jacquot (1991 drama, 118 min.), and Varda by Agnes (2019 documentary, 115 mins.)

South Jeolla Happenings Beopseongpo Dano Festival 법성포 단오제 2019 t June 7–10 P 154-13 Jingulbi-gil, Beopseongmyeon, Yeonggwang, Jeollanam-do 전라남도 영광군 법성면 진굴비길 154-13 ₩ Free À 061-356-4331 ` http://bspdanoje.co.kr/

Muan’s Mud Flat Festival 무안황토갯벌축제 t June 14–16 P 36 Mansong-ro, Haeje-myeon, Muan, Jeollanam-do (Muan Hwangto Mud Flat Land) 전라남도 무안군 해제면 만송로 36 무안황토갯벌랜드 ₩ Free À 061-450-5473, 5474 ` http://tour.muan.go.kr/tour/festival/ getbol

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Community Board

Have something you want to share with the community? The Community Board provides a space for the community to announce activities and special events. Please contact gwangjunews@gic.or.kr for more information.

Searching for Relatives

I was estimated to be around 6–9 days old when I was found, and I was very weak and little, weighing only 1.9 kilograms (4.2 pounds). My birthday was later set to October 1st but might well be a couple of days earlier or later. I was put up for adoption by SWS (Social Welfare Society, Korea) and came to Sweden in May 1975. I am well and thriving, but I feel something is missing, so I would really like to learn more about my biological roots.

I am a 45-year-old female adoptee living in Sweden. I am now reaching out, trying to find any biological relatives through this page. This is the very little information that I have: I (baby girl pictured) was found abandoned in a ramen noodle box at 1 a.m. on October 6th, 1974, at NamGwangju Station by the chief of Hak-dong Police Station.

Practical Philosophy Gwangju

Our aim is to help each other become individuals who know what they want and take action to get it. Our topics will range from goalsetting and action plans to dealing with fear and what a happy life could mean for you. When: June 8, 2019 (4:00–5:30 p.m.) Where: GIC 2nd floor, Room 3 Meetings will be held every two weeks on Saturdays. If you are interested and/or desire more information, please email louispollick@gmail.com or join the Facebook group: Practical Philosophy Gwangju. On June 8, we will discuss the aim of Practical Philosophy and the structure of future meetings. No knowledge of philosophy is needed to attend.

Unesco Kona Volunteers

KONA Storybook Center (KSC) is a registered small

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The baby photo is of me around age three months, and the other one is a recent photo. Email: linn.aberg@gmail.com Phone: +46 723 222722 Mailing Address: Linn Aberg Tells vag 4 449 36 Nodinge SWEDEN public library supported by UNESCO KONA Volunteers (UKV). UKV is a registered organization that helps disadvantaged children learn English independently through storybooks and story-maps. We guide families and children to develop a love of reading storybooks in English. We also give guidance to volunteers in using storybooks. We are looking for long-term volunteers who desire to enrich their lives. We are asking volunteers to commit to helping at least once a month. For more information, please visit http://cafe.daum. net/konavolunteers or our Facebook pages for KONA Storybook Center and UNESCO KONA Volunteers. Also, you can contact Kim Young-im at 062-434-9887 or email konacenter@gmail.com.

Volunteer teachers needed for the Gwangju

UCC (Universal Cultural Center). English teachers in the Gwangju area for 2019 with any level of experience are welcome to participate. UCC has a Facebook profile if you would like to see what kind of other services are

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56 available. To participate in the international cultural exchange programs, you may email peter.j.gallo@gmail. com, or phone or text 010-9490-4258.

Gwangju Filipino English Teachers

Every 3rd Tuesday of the month 10:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m., GIC Room 3 (2nd floor) We are a group of Filipino English teachers in Gwangju who conduct regular lectures and accent training to help fellow English teachers to become better educators.

Gwangju Inter FC

The Gwangju International Soccer Team (Gwangju Inter FC) plays regularly every weekend. If you are interested in playing, email seehand@naver.com, phone or text 0107126-1207, or search “Gwangju Inter FC” on Facebook.

Sunday Yoga with Emily

Korean–English Language Exchange Every Wednesday 6:30–8:30 p.m. , GIC Hall 1st Floor Facebook: GIC Language Exchange

Spanish Language Exchange

Spanish–English–Korean Language Exchange Every two weeks on Saturdays. 3:30–5:30 p.m., GIC Global Lounge (1st floor) No importa tu nivel de español. ¡Únetenos! More details: http://eng.gic.or.kr/ → Community Story

GIC citizen choir

Are you interested in joining a choir? The GIC Citizen Choir is inviting sopranos, altos, tenors and basses. Send your application to gic@gic.or.kr with the following information: name, phone number, email, voice part, and brief self introduction on your singing experiences. You can also visit and observe the GIC Citizen Choir rehearsing at the first floor of the GIC at 10:00 a.m. every other Saturday.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

June 2019

Every Sunday (unless otherwise stated on the Facebook page) 2–3 p.m., GIC Hall (1st floor) Facebook: Gwangju Yoga with Emily Appropriate for all levels. Classes are taught in English. Donation is encouraged.

GIC Language Exchange

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Attorney Attorney Park’s Park’s Law Law Firm Firm We're ready to serve your best interests in legal disputes. We provide affordable consultation & representation.

▶ Areas of Specialty contracts, torts, family law, immigration, labor ▶ Civil & Criminal Attorney Park, Duckhee

former judge, GIC board member Services available in Korean, English & Chinese

Tel: 062) 222-0011

#402 Simsan Bldg, 342-13 Jisan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju Location: next to Gwangju District Court

Fax: 062)222-0013 duckheepark@hanmail.net

through Kakao Talk Plus Friend “AskGwangju.” Add us now! :)

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Mon. – Sat. Lunch hours

10 a.m. – 6 p.m. 1 p.m. – 2 p.m.

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