(EN) Gwangju News December 2010 #106 by Gwangju International Center

Gwangju News International Magazine for Gwangju and Jeollanam-do

December 2010 Issue No. 106

Koreanosaurus Boseongensis Tattoo Culture Prof. Shin Sang-soon â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Looks at a Lifetime of Korean History 2010 Global Roundup

2011 GIC 1st Korean Language Class Saturday Classes

Weekday Classes Level

Days

Textbook

Level

Textbook

Beginner 1-1

Monday & Wednesday

서강한국어 1A (Pre-lesson ~ Lesson 1)

Beginner 1-1

서강한국어 1A (Pre-lesson ~ Lesson 1)

Beginner 1-2

Tuesday & Thursday

서강한국어 1A (Lesson 2 ~ Lesson 6)

Beginner 1-2

서강한국어 1A (Lesson 2 ~ Lesson 6)

Beginner 2-2

Tuesday & Thursday

서강한국어 1B (Lesson 5 ~ Lesson 8)

Beginner 2-1

서강한국어 1B (Lesson 1 ~ Lesson 4)

Advanced

Tuesday & Thursday

서강한국어 2B (Lesson 1 ~ Lesson 4)

- Period: Jan. 10 - Feb. 19, 2011 (Twice a week for 7 weeks) - Class hours: 10:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. (2 hours) - Tuition fee : 80,000 won (GIC membership fee: 20,000 won/ year and textbooks excluded)

Not

* The tuition fee is non-refundable after the first week. * A class may be canceled if fewer than 5 people sign up. * Textbooks can be purchased at the GIC

- Period: Jan.8 - Feb. 24, 2010 (Every Saturday for 7 weeks)

- Class hours: 10:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. (2 hours) - Tuition fee: 50,000 won (GIC membership fee: 20,000 won/ year and textbooks excluded) To register, please send your information: full name, contact number, working place and preferable level to gwangjuic@gmail.com

GIC is located on the 5th floor of the Jeon-il building, the same building as the Korean Exchange Bank, downtown. The entrance is located immediately to the north of the bank. Contact GIC office for more information. Phone: 062-226-2733/4 E-mail: gwangjuic@gmail.com Website: www.gic.or.kr

Gwangju News December 2010

Contributors Gwangju News

Contents 4

Koreanosaurus Boseongensis By Finbarr Bermingham

December 2010, Issue No. 106 Publisher: Gyonggu Shin

Tattoo Culture By Seth Pevey

Editor-in-Chief: Maria Lisak Editors: Daniel Lister, Minsu Kim

Prof. Shin Sang-soon – Looks at a Lifetime of Korean History By Kyle Johnson

2010 Global Roundup

Copy Editors: Kyle Johnson, Kathleen Villadiego, Jon Ozelton Photo Editor: Debra M. Josephson Coordinator: Karina Prananto

By Gabriel Ward

Layout and Design: Karina Prananto Proofreaders: Austin Lewis, Justin Palamarek, Rob Smith, Pete Schandall, Gina Covert, Marion Gregory, Julian Raethel, Jon Ozelton, Gabriel Ward

“Outing of Gwangju to Seoul in 100 Years’

A Fresh Coat of Paint

Address: Jeon-il Building 5F, Geumnam-no 1-1, Dong-gu, Gwangju 501-758, South Korea Phone: +82-62-226-2733

Fax: +82-62-226-2732

By Kathleen Villadiego 17

This Month in Gwangju By Jon Ozelton

Email: gwangjunews@gmail.com Registration No.: 광주광역시 라. 00145 (ISSN 2093-5315)

Formula One

Printed by Saenal (Phone +82-62-223-0029) Photographer: Paul Sanchez Cover Photo: Prof. Huh, top dinosaur expert who discovered Koreanosaurus Boseongensis in 2003. Story on page 4

By Jon Reesor 20

2010 ITTF Para Table Tennis World Championships By Lee Dong-geun

Photo Shop Murder By Elton LaClare

Photo Contest

The Temple of White Lotus Flowers

Gwangju News Magazine is written and edited by volunteers. Special thanks to the City of Gwangju and all of our sponsors. Copyright by the Gwangju International Center. All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by this copyright may be reproduced in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise - without the written consent of the publishers. Gwangju News welcomes letters to the editor (gwangjunews@gmail.com) regarding articles and issues. All correspondence may be edited for reasons of clarity or space.

By Hughie Samson 27

Steer Away from Brands By Selina Orrell

Motorcycling in Korea By Adrian Tegler

Home Pages

The 7th Gwangju Indie Music Festival By Julian Warmington

Dazzling and Deadly: On Kelly Shepherd’s the bony world By Daniel Walker

Useful Korean Phrases By Jung Soo-a

Restaurant Review: Junghwachon 중화촌 By Karina Prananto

Korean Easy Cook Recipe: 된장찌개 Soybean Paste Soup By Yang Hee-seon

Movie Review: Poetry 시 By Justin Palamarek

Staying Healthy: Battling the Gamgi By Austin Lewis

Cartoon: Dear Korea By Jen Lee

Cartoon: Digby By Leroy Kucia Gwangju News December 2010

Feature

Koreanosaurus Boseongensis K

orea is a country fixated on technology. Time magazine recently named the English teaching robot as one of the best inventions of 2010. They have the fastest broadband connection in the world and what was until recently the fastest railway system. You could easily be forgiven for assuming that all Koreans were hurtling towards the future at breakneck speed. But in a quiet corner of Gwangju, there is vital work ongoing that’s establishing and defining the peninsula’s unbreakable bond with the past. The official approval of Koreanosaurus Boseongensis as a new genus and species in October locked the eyes of the scientific world onto the Korea Dinosaur Research Center at Chonnam University. But in truth, it’s just the latest in a long line of remarkable discoveries by Professor MinHuh and his team of researchers. Korea has proved to be one of the most fertile hunting grounds for excavation teams: now the aptly named Koreanosaurus can take pride of place as the jewel in the crown. The fossilized remains were discovered in Bibong-ri Boseong, Jeollanam-do (a town more noted for its luscious green tea plantations) in 2003 by Professor Huh’s team. After seven years of excavation, preparation, research and reconstruction, they were finally given the green light to go public with their findings just a few weeks ago. Professor Huh admits it’s been a “very exciting and busy time.” He is Korea’s top dinosaur expert, respected the world over for his discoveries. He is also the Dean of the Natural Sciences Department of Chonnam. But sitting in his research facility, tucked away at the back of the university, he is amicable and accessible. He manages to simplify everything: offering bite-sized pieces of information, easily digested by those without a background in geology. He explains about how 100 million years ago, there was only one super-continent. Thus, Korea was connected to China and Mongolia, two other areas rich in dinosaur fossils. The conditions in Korea were perfect for attracting 4

Gwangju News December 2010

Koreanosaurus Boseongensis

prehistoric wildlife, in all shapes and sizes. Large parts of what is now Jeollanam-do were lakes, which explains the huge collection of dinosaur footprints, eggs and bone fossils in the area. The county provided some much needed watering holes. The extent of Professor Huh’s findings in the region shouldn’t be understated. He recalls his first fruitful excavation, in Haenam in 1996. “I didn’t know anything about large dinosaur footprints at the time,” he explains. “I found one, about ten centimeters wide; it looked like the roots of a plant, embedded in sedimentary rock bedding. We kept looking and found more and more. I contacted Professor Martin

Feature

times gone by, Korea’s second city was nothing but water: a huge lake, comparable in size to Lake Superior. As such, it too proved a popular habitat for dinosaurs and has the world’s highest density of dinosaur footprints, with over 5,000 being located, across many different species. But it was in Boseong that Professor Huh’s remarkable and ultimate achievement was to be unveiled. Unsurprisingly, he beams as he proudly shows me the remains of a skeleton. Koreanosaurus Boseongensis is smaller than you might think. “Jurassic Park was just a movie,” the Professor explains, smiling. “It really wasn’t historically accurate.” The team, too, were initially surprised by the finding. Most of the footprints in the area are indicative of much larger creatures: they were puzzled by the remains. The Korean team’s expertise is mostly in footprints. They enlisted Pascal Godefroit, a paleontologist from Belgium, to confirm that the Koreanosaurus is, indeed, unique to Korea only. It is assumed that it moved primarily on all fours, because of its overall body-plan and the location of the discovery. This, in itself, is an uncommon feature.

This page: Top: Prof. Huh, Gyonggu Shin and the writer; Bottom: Dinosaurs skulls

Lockley, an expert in Colorado University and told him about the find. He was shocked and said only: ‘how many?’” In total, they found 823 dinosaur and 443 pterosaur footprints in Haenam. It is the largest pterosaur (the earliest vertebrates known to have evolved powered flight. The most famous pterosaur is the pterodactyl) print site in the world. They also found the world’s oldest webbed bird footprint, dating back 85 million years. In fact, Haenam is unique in being the only site in the world where footprints of dinosaurs, pterosaurs, birds and arthropods (ancient arachnids, crustaceans and insects) have been found in the same locale.

Professor Huh continues: “We think it was capable of digging, because of the position of its arms. This would have helped it to find shelter and dig holes with which to lay eggs and raise its young. It was an ornithopod with long legs and neck, but with shorter hindlegs. We believe it moved quite slowly.” The Professor explained that Koreanosaurus was about a metre tall, and 2.5 metres long. It weighed about one hundred kilograms and lived in the late Cretaceous period (99.6 million to 65.5 million years ago). The discovery is his most exciting yet, he admits, but there is much work to be done. The next task to hand is to examine and try to establish links between bones and eggs found in the area. Watching the research student buzz round the lab, it’s easy to see that they won’t stop until they have answers.

Professor Huh’s next excavation brought him to Hwasun, where he explained that to date his team has uncovered more than 1,800 wide-ranging dinosaur footprints, as well as a trackway which exhibits the fastest speed of any dinosaur in Korea. In Yeosu, they found the world’s longest ornithopod (small, bipedal plant-eating dinosaurs, often birdlike) trackway in the world, amongst 3,853 other footprints.

As Professor Huh places a one hundred million year old bone in my hand, I can’t help but reflect on the minor role in world history human beings have played. We have roamed the earth, in our current form, for a mere two hundred thousand years. Dinosaurs ruled the domain for over three hundred million. The dinosaurs of Korea were wiped out by a series of comets and volcanoes (which resulted in the formation of amongst others, Mudeung Mountain). We may just be doing similarly devastating damage; all within the blink of an eye that has been our lifespan.

Goseong, further down the coast towards Busan, has also proven to be a fruitful location for Professor Huh. In

By Finbarr Bermingham Photos by Paul Sanchez and Gyonggu Shin

Gwangju News December 2010

Feature

Tattoo Culture U

nless you have a medical degree, it is illegal for you to give someone a tattoo in Korea.

It’s one of those laws that, through the pressures of cultural change, has become largely ignored over the years by both the authorities and by the so called “criminals”-those who practice the inking of human skin in Korea illegally, whose qualifications are a passion for the art, creative talent, and the steady hands necessary to permanently mark another person’s body. One could argue that in the West, tattoos have become less symbolic of a defiant or anti-social personality type, and more of a unique accessory people commonly use to express themselves during their youths. As cool as your barbed wire or tribal armband may look, simply having a tattoo in the U.S. or in other western countries does not (anymore) automatically make one badass. In fact, one could claim that nowadays the uniqueness of having a tattoo in western countries has all but faded. In Korea however, that change of mentality and image has come on much more slowly and is only recently being cemented into the cultural consciousness. Until the last few years, and perhaps even still, traditional Koreans tended to view tattoos with suspicion, and have been known to associate those bearing the marks with violent criminal activity, or as gangsters. Some have attributed this to a Confucian value system, in which one’s body is considered a gift given to them by their parents and thus forbidden to alter. But could this alone explain such a strong cultural aversion to tattoos? What is the substantial difference between how Koreans (as well as many others eastern countries) and the west view body art? “Recently the views of many have changed,” said Kim Myeong-hyeon, a local artist and tattoo guru who has, over the past decade, run one of the most prominent tattoo parlors here in Gwangju, as well as trained a majority of the local tattooists in the craft, who have opened up nearly a dozen other shops across the city. “I’m really satisfied with my job,” he said first off during the interview at his main downtown establishment, Crows. Stepping into Crows felt like stepping into a similar spot in the west. A loft-like upstairs gallery had paintings of nude women, and modern dance music pulsed from ceiling speakers. “During the Joseon dynasty, tattoos were used to brand 6

Gwangju News December 2010

This page: Top: Design by Crows Tattoo; Bottom: Crows Crew; Next page: Design by Crows Tattoo

Feature

doctors, but most doctors don’t make tattoos.” In fact, Myeong-hyeon expresses concern with the illegality of physician-free parlors in Korea, as there is no legitimate body to regulate them in rules of cleanliness and hygiene. “There should be rules…there are no rules for tattoos in Korea, so we study those of foreign countries… I always train my students about [hygiene] but I‘m afraid tattooists who aren‘t my students may be practicing poor hygiene. I don‘t know, it is illegal so there are no regulations,” he said.

criminals,” he explained, justifying why Korea was slow to embrace his profession. He went on to explain that because in the past decades tattoos in Korea had often been performed under relatively covert circumstances (due to stricter enforcement of laws illegalizing them) it was indeed often only habitual law breakers and ne’re-do-wells who sported them. Thus, seeing a tattoo on a young man was a good indicator he was connected to violent or criminal aspects of Korean society. What changed you ask. “The internet has opened people up to the creative possibilities of tattoos…..It is now seen that outside of Korea, tattoos are used by foreigners as an expression,” Myeong-hyeon said. But although the taboo of tattoos is slowly fading in Korea, Myeong-hyeon still had his complaints about the laws, which seem far too sluggish to keep up with the loosening of unwritten social values and institutions.

Myeon-hyeon elaborated on the legal situation of tattoos in Korea. “I want tattoos to be legal,” he said, “so we can have regulations that distinguish a good artist from a bad one, but the council of doctors is fighting against us. They have the right to tattoo, but the artists don’t; still the doctors’ power is so strong. We are insisting that we want the right [to tattoo].” Clearly Myeong-hyeon is passionate about his art, as are the people he tattoos every day. As the conditions for him and others in the profession continue to change and improve, he remains very optimistic about the future. “In the past there were only limited designs, but nowadays everyone’s taste is difference and minds are changed. More people will get tattoos. Koreans have good hand skills, Korean tattoo parlors will be great. It will be more popular… more normal.” Whilst the future of tattooing on the peninsula is unclear, Myeong-hyeon remains steadfast in his commitment to deliver a quality and safe service to those who are brave enough to defy social norms. For him, it’s not about right or wrong: it’s about being true to his art. By Seth Pevey Photos by Mark Eaton

“In Japan and Korea, making tattoos is restricted to

Vox Pops – The Gwangju News asked people on the street about their thoughts on tattoos •I think wearing tattoos, especially in summer, makes you look sexy! – Angela, 22 •Tattoos are scary, I don’t like them. People just copy actors, if many people do something then they think it’s ok. – Jenny, 23 •I like tattoos! I have one - a dove on my back. If you want to express yourself that way – do it! – Becky, 23 • I don’t want to be a 70 year old man looking in the mirror and wondering, why the hell did I get that?! – Chris, 24 •It looks disgusting. In Korea, gangsters usually wear tattoos, so if I wear one people will think I’m a bad guy. – Jacob, 29 •Girls love a guy with tattoos! I’d have women lining up around the block to date me – Anonymous, 24. •It’s an experience a human being can get. As long as it’s not offensive, I think it’s ok. If I was a student I would get one, but now I have a job, and I know other people mind. Having one can affect my reputation and chances of getting a job promotion. – Sae Byeol, 28 By Ann Juli James

Gwangju News December 2010

Interview

Prof. Shin Sang-soon Looks at a Lifetime of Korean History ong-time Gwangju News readers know Shin Sang-Soon by his pen name, 2Ys, from his column entitled “The Korean Way.” Shin is a Gwangju native, but has spent quite a bit of time living and traveling elsewhere in Korea, Japan and the United States.

Shin has seen a lot of changes in Korea throughout his life. He was born into a Japanese-occupied Korea, but attended Waseda University in Japan before being drafted into the Japanese army during World War II. Shin returned to his home country in 1945, after the war’s conclusion and at the dawn of Korea’s newfound independence. “I was kind of loafing because I had nothing to do. But I happened to start working in a middle school, teaching English,” he said. Next, Shin taught English at a high school and worked as an interpreter for the U.S. military in Korea. Next came the Korean War, which changed everything for Shin and his fellow Koreans. “In a way, the Korean War was a turning point in my life I think, because I lived in Seoul and because of the war, I lost all my property. At that time I was running a small printing company, but ... when U.N. forces landed in Incheon and retook Seoul, the North Korea occupation soldiers came to my printing company and carried away all the machines and equipment,” he said. “I was broke.” Shin took a job as an interpreter for the United Nations and traveled with the U.N. forces for a year as they made their way across present day North Korea. He served with the U.N. forces for two more years in Gwangju, and “spent his young days” teaching English at Chonnam National University for 35 years. Shin also studied English for two years at the University of Hawaii’s East-West Center, which was created in the 1960s to link Asia and the United States. In early November of this past year, Shin met with the 8

Gwangju News December 2010

Gwangju News to discuss his interesting life and thoughts about current issues in Korea. Gwangju News (GN): You mentioned studying English at the University of Hawaii’s East-West Center. I think many readers would be interested to learn more about your experiences learning English. My basic English knowledge was taught during the Japanese days. My middle school, high school, and college days were all spent under Japanese rule. Then I joined the United Nations forces and got in touch with American officers and soldiers. That’s the first that I came to learn American English. Before that, my English was British English, with a British pronunciation. After that I was with American

Interview

officers in the United Nations forces for over one year before coming to Gwangju and working with the U.N. forces here for two years From there, I went to America (the East-West Center in Hawaii.) That’s how I came to learn English. GN: You have written for the Gwangju News for a long time. Why have you done this? Why did you think it was important? Since I am a Korean, I want many foreigners to learn something about Korea: Korean history, Korean folklore, Korean traditions, things like that. That’s why I started writing the Korean Way articles. GN: Speaking of foreigners, what misconceptions or misunderstandings do you think foreigners have about Korea? If you are in a foreign country, you come up with many things different from your own culture. People are biased with different cultures or misconceptions, things like that. And if the culture is different from yours, then you judge the differences from a good or bad point of view. Not just a difference, but good or bad. That’s not good. The culture is just different. No good, no bad. ...Cultural differences must be recognized as differences. Not value judgments, just differences. GN: Korea is becoming a more multicultural society. Do you think there are any issues or problems that have been caused by this? Not in the distant future, but someday, we may confront a big social problem because of multicultural households. Now, especially in the rural areas, there are many single men because ... the girls go to the cities to work as a factory worker and earn more money. That creates more men with fewer girls, so men, to get married, have started taking foreign girls from Southeast Asia as wives...Now in the rural areas, more than 10 percent of marriages are between Korean men and Southeast Asian girls every year. ...This may create quite a social problem, not in the distant future. For example, there is social instability in France these days. In France, there are many immigrants from Africa, from the former French territories, they come to France and they are the source of trouble. In Korea, these 10 percent of marriages, and they create children, this they may be a social problem not in the distant future. That’s a big problem. GN: Why is this is a problem? These youngsters find it very difficult to find a place in society. And these youngsters produced by this

multicultural family, they fail to learn the language. That’s a big problem. They drop out from school. Where do they go? So, they will create problems. GN: What are your thoughts about the G-20 summit? It is hard for me to know how Korea ever became one of the G-20 nations. Many social scientists think that Korea somehow managed to develop tremendously in the last several decades and this is recognized all over the place, all over the world. ...For Korean development after the Korean War, in just 50 or 60 years Korea rose from the ashes of the war…So I myself am in doubt, how Korea could became one of the G-20. GN: What do you think about reunification of North and South Korea? Are you optimistic it will happen soon? Eventually, the North and South must unite. But judging from what has happened so far in the last 60 years, it might take some time. Like the German unification, the unification may come all of a sudden. In the case of Germany, the Berlin Wall collapsed one morning and then came the unification. In Korea, [do] we have a Korean wall that can be broken one day, one night, one morning? I doubt it. Look at North Korea. Three generations of one family ruling the country, and it is communist. So this communist regime is beyond myself. ...The North and South, we have the same people, the same language, the same customs, and I think we may eventually be united, but as it stands now, it is rather difficult to predict. One morning or one night, the unseen wall might collapse, but the international situation surrounding Korea may make it difficult to unite. China, for example, does not want American forces on their border line. That’s why they intervened during the Korean War, because the United Nations forces advanced north close to their border. The Chinese didn’t want that. Suppose one day, in North Korea, the government topples, and North Korean society becomes confused. Do you think South Korea can advance, can go into North Korea? China doesn’t want this. It’s a very difficult problem. By Kyle Johnson

Gwangju News December 2010

World News

2010 Global Roundup his year has seen many significant events around the world, from natural disasters to the continuation of economic turmoil that has now been going on for more than 2 years. Attempts to bring peace to the Middle-East are currently being made, most notably in Afghanistan where President Hamid Karzai is talking with the Taliban, while Palestinian and Israeli leaders have returned to the negotiating table. The most prominent political topic this year has been the global economy. The economy has shown that a real change in the international landscape has already arrived as China becomes ever more prominent, while the US is appearing ever more vulnerable as it clamours to rebuild its economy. As a result of this fixation on the economy, another prominent issue - climate change - seems to have taken a back seat. Here is a selection of events that have happened around the world in 2010.

January On January 12 a 7.0 magnitude earthquake struck the capital of Haiti, Port au Prince. The country was brought to its knees, especially the capital which was devastated. The death toll was catastrophic, with estimates from 250,000 to more than 300,000 people. The cost of the earthquake was estimated at between US$ 7.2 and 13.2 billion. February 2010 saw protests in Thailand, when peasants from the countryside took to the streets of Bangkok, the nation’s capital. It turned into confrontation when the protestors who personalthailand.com became known as ‘red shirts’, faced off against troops from the military. A total of 88 protestors were killed and upward of 1,800 were injured. Thailand has seen an abundance of civil and political unrest over the last three years including six changes in prime minister and a military coup. 10

Gwangju News December 2010

March The eruption of a volcano in Iceland called Eyjafjallajokull on 25th of March, and the eventual discharging of volcanic ash on April 14th, caused massive and thenewschronicle.com prolonged airline disruption across Europe as the ash drifted across the continent. On top of the massive delays in peoples’ travel plans, the financial cost of the disruption was said to be millions of dollars a day. It was not until May when the effects of the eruption began to subside and flights could resume. May The United Kingdom saw a change in government when it held general elections in May. A coalition government between the Conservatives and the Liberal Democrats was formed, with the leader of the Conservatives, David Cameron, becoming prime minister and the leader of the Liberal Democrats, Nick Clegg, becoming his deputy. A coalition was formed because the result of the election was a hung parliament, with none of the three major parties being able to gain a ruling majority. New Labour had been in government since 1997. October On October 8, Chinese human rights activist Liu Xiaobo received the Nobel Peace Prize. The Chinese government was unhappy with the Norwegian Nobel committee’s decision, threatening a souring of gulfnews.com diplomatic relations between China and Norway, as Liu is a known well

World News

known critic to the Chinese regime, which considers him a ‘criminal.’ He is currently serving an 11 year prison sentence for co-authoring a document known as ‘Charter 08’ which calls democratic reform in China.

Help Frank Osei

Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung of Vietnam hailed the 17th ASEAN Summit, which was recently held in Hanoi, as a success. ASEAN is the Association of South East Asian Nations. Its purpose is to foster economic growth, peace, and stability, and to promote cooperation between nations in South East Asia. The beginning of October saw a reservoir at an aluminium plant in Hungary, burst. 700,000 cubic metres (24.7m cu ft) of toxic sludge flooded from the plant located in Ajka, in western Hungary. The sludge destroyed all life in the Marcal river, which flows into the Danube, Europe’s second longest river. The sludge reached the Danube, but efforts to neutralise the alkaline sludge, mitigated the pollution of the river according to Hungary’s prime minister. November Japan has had a difficult year diplomatically with China and Russia. At the beginning of November, Russian President Dmitri Medvedev visited an island that Russia calls Kunashir, and that Japan calls Kunashiri. Japan expressed indignation at President Medvedev’s visit as the islands are under dispute between the two nations. Japan’s ambassador in Moscow was called back to Tokyo. This came after Japan gave into Chinese demands to release the captain of a Chinese trawler they had arrested whose ship was in disputed waters between those two nations. Add to this dispute the fact that China overtook Japan as the second largest economy in the world this year, and 2010 has shown real signs of the changing the balance of power in East Asia. 2010 President Obama has had a rollercoaster ride of a year. The pinnacle of his year was passing healthcare legislation, which had telegraph.co.uk e l u d e d Democratic presidents for a century. His low point came at the beginning of November when the Democrats lost 60 seats in Congress, conceding the majority to the

Most would have heard about the story of Frank Osei, a migrant worker currently in Gwangju Christian Hospital. Frank has been in a coma since midOctober. For those not familiar with his plight, Frank had been ill for a while before collapsing at work. He did not visit the doctor as he had no medical insurance, a common predicament for migrant workers. The doctors diagnosed Frank with symptoms of hydrocephalus (water on the brain). Despite getting through the most critical stages of his condition, Frank remains unconscious and without the support of his family who are, due to financial reasons, not able to make the journey to Korea. The hospital and government have generously arranged to pay a portion of the bills. However, costs are still mounting. Many people have put forward some great ideas for fund-raisers. Currently, we are organizing an event for early next year. For more information please visit: ‘Help Frank Osei’ Facebook Group or www.nanumyes.com If you would like to help Frank out by making a donation please transfer money to 외환은행 (KEB Bank) 040-22-02413-8 to the 광주국제교류센터 (Gwangju International Center - GIC).

Republicans. The Republicans have opposed the healthcare reform from the outset, and will endeavour to repeal it now that they have increased power in Congress. Obama has also had to make tough foreign policy decisions, most notably his order to deploy a further 30,000 US troops to Afghanistan while withdrawing troops from Iraq. By Gabriel Ward

Gwangju News December 2010

Art

“OutingofGwangju toSeoulin100Years” Gwangju - Seoul Exhibition at The Seoul Museum of History November 17 - December 12, 2010

Chapter 1 ‘Gwangju Stream, an Axis of the City’

Chapter 2 ‘Mt. Mudeung’ introduces the mountain, which is the

focuses on the fact that the city has been formed around the Gwangju Stream, which runs from north to south through the downtown.

riverhead of the Gwangju Stream and a guardian mountain of Gwangju residents.

Seoseokdae in 1959

Gyeong-yang Embarkment during the 1940s Gwangju Stream during the 1970s 12

Gwangju News December 2010

The bank was constructed early in the Joseon Dynasty to lead water to farmlands far away from the Gwangju Stream, but it was filled up with earth two times (in 1937 and 1967).

Art

Chapter 3 â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;History and Life of Gwangjuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; shows the 100-year history and life of Gwangju City

Gwangju Bridge

Dangsan Tree in Ullim-dong in 1958

Chungjangno in the 1920s

NamGwangju Station

Carrying firewood (1957)

Jeollanamdo Provincial Office in the 1910s

Entrance fee: free of charge. For more information, please contact the Seoul Museum of History at 02-724-0114~6 or the Literary Research Room of the Gwangju Folk Museum at 062-613-5363. Gwangju News December 2010

Community

A Fresh Coat of Paint S

ungbin Girls’ Orphanage houses a number of Gwangju’s little Annie’s, providing a home, food and shelter to around seventy girls from infants to teenagers. Once a week, a small band of volunteers visit them, to provide the girls with some English lessons. Yet once you enter the room where the girls have their lessons, it soon becomes apparent that it’s more like a playground than a classroom. Girls chase each other screaming with excitement or screaming just of the sake of it; volunteers morph into jungle gyms, balance beams and seesaws; and one can’t leave out the pushing and kicking, usually done to keep or get a volunteer’s attention, which naturally leads to sulking. What serves as a reminder that you aren’t in a play den are the off-white walls, heavy wooden knee-high tables, and cathedral-size crucifix., There are hints that some form of teaching is done here: a decrepit whiteboard, looking like it would probably be more useful as fire fuel, stands at one end of the room; a digital projector looks somewhat out of place; and there are well-worn crayons tucked away in a box in a cupboard. In the absence of proper desks, workbooks, pictures, posters, and other classroom staples, volunteers make their best efforts to create an actual learning environment.

Gwangju News December 2010

That was the scene at Sungbin several months ago. Things have changed though, thanks to recent transformations. When entering the room now, it looks just like any other elementary classroom. The girls sit around brightly coloured desks, at proper ergonomic height; there is a cosy reading corner with numerous enticing books; and interactive posters, created by students from the Gwangju National University of Education, decorate the walls which themselves have been given a fresh coat of sky-blue paint, covering the girls’ sneaky attempts to put pencil and crayon to wall.

Community

One wall in particular, where the crucifix once hung, has been given very special treatment in the form of a mural. Done in the style of Dr. Seuss the artist, Tamara Rose, created a work portraying journey, travel and the future. Painted over several Saturdays with the help of volunteers and the girls themselves, the process apparently went smoother than expected, the result is better than Tamara had envisaged. The organizers hoped that by having the girls work on the mural, they would take pride in the environment that they helped to create, and hopefully not graffiti all over it again. The theme and message are, like with any picture book or story for children, subtle for the younger mind but enough for the girls to be subconsciously inspired.

girls to thrive from an early age, value learning, gain skills and therefore be more prepared for the world beyond the walls of Sungbin.

The girls have reacted positively to all the colour, furnishings and structure. Previously, playtime began at the beginning of the lesson and carried through to the end. You were lucky to maintain their attention for five minutes and that was considered an achievement. Now however, girls are grouped by colour-coded TV shirts and sit around allocated desks; there is no running around and screaming, although there is a fair bit yelling when answers are called out – a sign that they’re actually interested. It still requires a lot of effort to hold their attention, but it’s there, though precariously.

The lesson after the makeover was the girls’ first proper coherent lesson, using materials put together and taught by Elton. But even the indefatigable need to rest and Elton is ready pass the teaching torch on, so that he can focus more on the administrative side of things. Organizers have long wanted an actual syllabus and people to deliver it. However, it is not a commitment for the capricious.

All of the changes have been made possible through numerous fund-raising efforts and generous donations, along with the planning and organizing of staff at the orphanage and Elton La Clare and Al Barnum, both longserving volunteers. In general, Elton hopes to give the girls a sense of responsibility: something that girls who have had to leave the orphanage when they became too old to legally stay there, have not been able to gain. This responsibility is not acquired overnight and organizers hope that the new surroundings, coupled with structured English lessons and other educational and practical programs they hope to run in the future, will allow the

That the transformation has been long in the making is not so much due to a lack of funds, as to a need for more dedicated and committed hands and heads. There are still a number of projects in the works but the more immediate needs have to do with lesson planning and teaching. Previously, two or three volunteers taught separate, unrelated lessons which usually involved a game of some sort. If there was no one to teach, then lesson time turned into colouring-in time with little educational input.

Try retaining the attention of a group of girls aged between 5 and 13 who, despite enjoying being around the volunteers, are not really motivated to study English especially on a Saturday. Then again, what child is? The young learners who go to hagwons after school and at the weekends may not necessarily want to be there either, but these children have parents who strongly encourage English study which is synonymous with having a good education; a leg up in the academic, business and social world. It is the gap this disadvantage creates that Elton and staff at the orphanage want to bridge. The paint is just the start, but more is needed. If you’d like to lend a hand to the cause, there are a number of options available. Fund-raising events are held throughout the Gwangju News December 2010

Community

year in support of the programs offered at Sung Bin. Participating in one of these events (or planning your own) can be a great way of helping out the girls. Currently Elton is looking for someone to create and maintain a homepage to be used for keeping the Gwangju community informed of the good works going on at Sung Bin. If you can help with putting materials together or teaching, then come and join the other volunteers. It’s on every Saturday for an hour and don’t worry – for those who do a good job of unwinding on a Friday night, the time is not too taxing on the body. Those interested should meet at Starbucks downtown (opposite Outback) at 1:30 or at Sungbin (near the entrance to CNU Hospital) at 2:00. Enquiries: al_barnum@yahoo.com By Kathleen Villadiego Photos by Mesa Schumacher

One way to bring someone a merry Christmas!

Adopt A Child for Christmas 16

Gwangju News December 2010

You are invited to join others in supporting the Adopt A Child for Christmas program. This program involves giving a gift to one of the girls living in Sung Bin orphanage. The girls’ ages range from 2 to 17. The gift should not be expensive but gift wrapped is always fun to tear open for small children on Christmas day. Contact this writer to get your name on the list for your child. Al Barnum - al_barnum@yahoo.com

Local News

This Month in Gwangju A brief round-up of news stories from in and around Gwangju Bus Drivers’ Strike Passengers hoping to travel in and out of Gwangju by express bus could be in for some problems in the coming weeks. Members of the Kumho bus drivers’ union are threatening to go on strike, in protest over low wages, night shifts, and the fact that the company won’t accept their union. The date for the strike’s start is believed to be November 28th, and disruption to services is expected.

Local Retailers against SSMs Protesters gathered outside Home Plus supermarket’s Duam store on November 14th, demonstrating against the construction of more so-called “super supermarkets” (SSM) in Gwangju. The protesting group mostly comprised local retailers, who say that their businesses and livilhoods would suffer as a direct consequence of more SSMs. The Home Plus chain already has three branches in Gwangju, and is hoping to open a further four more stores in the city. Although some legislation does exist to limit the growth of SSMs for the protection of smaller business, local business owners believe it is inadequate, and are pushing for stronger laws, and are unhappy that no new legislation has yet to come into place. At the time of writing, Gwangu's North District Council has agreed to allow an SSM to be opened in Samak-dong, a move that is sure to anger retailers further, and exacerbate the conflict.

2015 Summer Universiade Impacting Real Estate Since the announcement in May last year that Gwangju would play host to the 2015 Summer Universiade, real estate prices have been on the rise throughout the city. The average cost for 60 square meters has increased from 68 million won when the games were awarded to Gwangju, up to 74 million won today. However, it’s not all good news for apartment owners. Residents in the Hwajeong and Pungam neighborhoods risk losing their homes as a result of the Universiade. The local government is planning to provide athletes’ accommodation by renovating existing apartments, and are focusing on these two neighborhoods as they surround the game’s centerpiece, Gwangju World Cup Stadium. Residents are angry that compensation deals and other

Mokpo Twin Tower Building Sketch

Daum

details have not yet been finalized, and complain that the local government is dragging its heels over the issue, thus creating difficulties.

Green Light for Mokpo’s Twin Tower Building Complex On November 11th, full permission was granted for the construction of a 31-story, two-tower ‘twin’ building complex, in the city of Mokpo. The development will be on the site of the city’s old Central Market, as part of a major regeneration drive. The construction work will be managed by a public company called LH. The building will have 4 basement levels, and 31 above-ground floors, which will have various uses. Two floors will be for retailers, floors 3 to 5 will house administrative offices, whilst floors 6 to 31 will be apartments. The project hopes to rejuvenate nearby businesses and the surrounding neighborhood. By Jon Ozelton Gwangju News December 2010

Feature

Formula One

he first annual Korean F1 Grand Prix race took place this month in Yeongam amidst a great deal of discussion, controversy and difficulties. Much of the negative publicity leading up to the race has been balanced by many positive reviews declaring it one of the best F1 races that has happened in a while. When I heard that F1 would be coming to Korea, I briefly considered attending, especially since it was so close to Gwangju. To be so near a race and not attend, particularly in Korea, felt like I would be missing out on a once-in-alifetime opportunity. In addition, I could bore future generations with the tale of my experience. However, I have never been passionate about car racing and have yet to willingly watch an entire race on television, let alone pay several hundred thousand won to attend in person, so I decided to pursue it no further. However, the week before the race, my wife and I were given free seats in the silver grandstand which would have normally cost about 1,000,000 won. This brought back the idea of attending the race into the â&#x20AC;&#x153;once-in-a-lifetimeâ&#x20AC;? category, and we decided to make our way to the race on Sunday afternoon. Having read up a little on the race before arriving, I was both surprised and not surprised by some of the issues plaguing the construction of the circuit. I have been in Korea long enough to be familiar with both last minute planning and rushed construction, as well as the passionate desire of Koreans to introduce the world to Korea. A major international sporting event brings the two forces together. I figured national pride would win out, giving Koreans a chance to enter the world racing circuit triumphantly with their collective heads held high. It was not to be. I assumed that arriving in Mokpo by train 90 minutes before the beginning of the race would be more than

Gwangju News December 2010

This page: Top: Traffic jams on the road to the circuit; Bottom: Shuttle bus to the venue. Next page: Top left: Spectators on the stadium; Top right: Renault Team; Bottom: Ferrari Team

enough time to get to our seats, assuming we took the free shuttle bus to the track. After all, it was less than 20km to the race course and the shuttle bus meant there would be no parking issues. I assumed they would probably drop us off right at the front gate to expedite the flow of people. With crowds expected to exceed 100,000, surely there would be some sort of streamlined process for those taking public transportation. Such were my thoughts, and I was comforted by them. Unfortunately, I was horribly wrong. Traffic in Mokpo was crazy, but nothing compared to the traffic at the track. Our shuttle bus hit a wall of immobile cars and we ended

Feature

up walking the last 30 minutes to our seats on narrow sidewalks, occasionally through mud, arriving mere seconds before the beginning of the race. There were police aplenty lining the roads, but they seemed unable to properly direct the traffic or keep it flowing. Due to a previous engagement, we ended up leaving the race early (along with a great many other people), and it took us nearly 2 hours to get from the track back to the Mokpo train station. As I was leaving the race, my general sentiments echoed those of Christina Green, who said, “...because I’m not an avid F1 fan, I wouldn’t feel the need to buy tickets next time. I would, however, endure the small hike up a hill located near the tracks to see the race from a bird’s eye view. I saw many people sitting up there and watching the race from afar. I think it would be a fun idea for those who want to witness the sport but don’t care enough to be close to the action and pay the incredible fees.” On the upside, and there is usually at least one, we made it to our seats on time. Others were not so fortunate. Many people had tickets for seats that had not been constructed yet, others had valid tickets but were hassled because the

computers were down, and many others had been given free passes that were not honored and ended up being turned away at the gates. Bags were searched at the entrances and people were kept from bringing in food, only to be left hungry once they passed through the gates. There was apparently only one Family Mart (I didn’t actually see it) and very few food stands, some of which charged upwards of 6,000 won for a roll of kimbap, all of which was supposed to feed more than 100,000 people. This stands in stark contrast to the experience at a KIA Tigers baseball game, where the gates are a circus of vendors, and every other person in the stadium has a cardboard box full of breaded and fried chicken. Although the fan seating was incomplete, traffic in both directions was a horrible nightmare, the signage was horrendous, the volunteers were friendly but ill informed, the food stands were lacking and overpriced, and it was raining, the race itself turned out to be quite exciting with a good ending. Perhaps that is the silver lining in this experience. As resident English teacher Owen Kerr said, “If the race had been dull I would have been very disappointed by the whole thing, but thankfully it was good so the weekend was saved.” Korea has another year to finish the grandstands, figure out the traffic, streamline and monitor accommodations and increase the availability of food. However, the course itself is good and will likely stay the same, and a good course is a major part of what will bring the racers and the fans back. Hopefully, in the years to come, the tendency towards last minute preparation will be overcome with the desire to represent Korea and Korean culture favorably on the world stage, and the organizers will be able to present a good race and a good experience. Story and photos by Jon Reesor

Gwangju News December 2010

Sport

2010 ITTF Para Table Tennis World Championships hat a comfortable and beautiful city Gwangju is!” many participants in the recent Para Table Tennis World Championships enthused. It was always uplifting to hear such positive reviews from visitors to my hometown.

“W

This year, Gwangju hosted the ITTF Para Table Tennis World Championships, which went from late October to early November. Although it was during the frenetic mid-term exam period, I volunteered as a translator for the Championships. This was one of the biggest events of this sort held in Gwangju and I was delighted to have the chance to participate. The event was both an anniversary and a new horizon. It was an anniversary in that it was in 20 years ago that the first Para Table Tennis World Championships were staged, being held in the Dutch city of Assen in 1990. It is a new horizon because it is the first time that the 20

Gwangju News December 2010

tournament has been held under the umbrella of the International Table Tennis Federation. Matters concluded with a feeling of accomplishment with everyone most grateful for the help that had been given – in particular to the volunteers who had helped to create the best conditions possible for the players. Among the glowing comments that I overheard, many athletes commented warmly about their hotel’s special facilities for the disabled. The ITTF Para World Championships came to a close on Tuesday, November 2, 2010; eight days of intense competition was over. However, it was more than just another sporting contest. It was a show of athletes pushing the limits: perseverance, determination and immense strength of character.

Story and photos by Lee Dong-geun

Book Review

Photo Shop Murder W

hen it comes to Korean literature, there is a tendency among readers to gravitate toward stories based upon the big events in the country’s history – namely the Korean War and the North/South tensions that have persisted since the nation’s partition in 1948. Although renderings of the country’s tumultuous past often make for compelling (and edifying) reading, there is another side to Korean literature – a more mundane side – that can be just as illuminating for those grasping for a greater understanding of the culture. “Photo Shop Murder” by Kim Young-ha, is an example of the type of story that eschews the great narratives of Korean history in favor of the small canvas of an obscure suburban neighborhood. The title story of this book follows the ruminations of a cynical, chain-smoking detective as he tries to make sense of a brutal murder that takes place in an unassuming photo shop. The victim, a man in his forties, has been bludgeoned to death in the early hours of an otherwise quiet Sunday morning. The man has a wife, rather young and not unattractive, upon whom suspicion immediately falls. In the woman, the detective sees shades of his own wife – whose infidelity has been largely responsible for his jaded outlook. Although at first it appears his suspicions are unfounded, investigations reveal that the woman has a lover – a customer of the shop who periodically brings in nude photographs of himself for developing. In time the true perpetrator of the murder is revealed, but what sustains the reader (aside from the mystery, of course) is the detective’s pitiless analysis of his own crumbling relationship. The second story included in this volume, “Whatever Happened to the Guy Stuck in the Elevator?”, is a total departure from the gritty, noir-esque atmosphere of “Photo Shop Murder”. From the opening scene, in which the main character, Jeong, is forced to leave his apartment after shaving only half his face, it is clear that an absurd – perhaps farcical – tale is about to unfurl. The peculiar title comes from an incident in the opening pages in which Jeong comes across a set of legs protruding from the doors of an elevator trapped between the 5th and 6th

floors of his apartment complex. Despite his good intentions, Jeong is unable to summon help and is obliged to hustle to the bus stop or run the risk of being late for an important meeting. Although he occupies the bottom rung of the corporate ladder, Jeong is hoping to bolster his career with an innovative cost-cutting plan that involves the installation of automatic toilet paper dispensers. Sadly, his presentation fails to produce its intended effect, perhaps owing to the bizarre set of coincidences that has caused him to turn up late and in an especially disheveled state. Throughout the story Jeong never completely rids himself of the image of the pair of legs dangling from the elevator doors. In fact, he is all but haunted by the curiosity that has been steadily building about the fate of the man trapped inside. In the end, the reader is left to wonder if there’s perhaps more to the situation than meets the eye. After all, the stalled elevator seems a perfect metaphor for Jeong’s life and career. Despite his frantic efforts, both are going nowhere. The conception of modern life as little more than a “rat race” has been a familiar trope in Western culture since the 1950s. Being treated to its Korean equivalent is nothing less than eye-opening. By Elton LaClare

Gwangju News December 2010

PHOTO CONTEST W I N N E R

Autumn colors

Photo by Christina Wolfe

Seagull wall (the seagull is a symbol of tongyeong ) 22

Gwangju News December 2010

Photo by Kerrilyn Strothard

Submit your best shot of Korea! To enter the Photo Contest, simply send your name, photo and picture description to gwangjunews@gmail.com.

Horseshoe branch with maple leaves at the Gwangju Biennale Courtyard

Photo by Debra M. Josephson

Cuttlefish boats docked in Jeju-do.

Photo by Mesa Schumacher Gwangju News December 2010

Beyond Gwangju

The Temple of White Lotus Flowers eighbouring purplish pale-green waters in tranquil Gangjin, elegant Baekryunsa – the Temple of White Lotus Flowers – is perched on the eastern slope of Mandeok Mountain.

believed that by contemplating Amita Buddha while repenting and reciting mantras, worshippers with pure minds can travel “the sea that is the world together” to find the “Pure Land” at last.

Baekryunsa was founded twelve-hundred years ago during the reign of King Munseong, and four hundred years later in 1211 it was reconstructed by National Teacher Ven Yose. Five hundred and fifty years later in 1760 most of Baekryunsa was destroyed by fire, but the main hall was promptly rebuilt, however, and it has stood firmly in place ever since.

Flanking the main hall are several smaller buildings. As a tribute to the co-existence of Buddhism and Korea’s earlier native traditions, the Three Sages Shrine houses the Mountain God, Seven Stars, and the Self-Enlightened One. Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva – accompanied by kings, judges, bodhisattvas and a lion – cares for souls in the Hall of the Deceased. Sakyamuni Buddha and sixteen arhats occupy the Hall of Arhats together, and a large monument carved with lotus flowers, pre-dating all of these buildings, stands nearby. Detailing Baekryunsa’s ancient history, it guides temple reconstruction efforts today.

Centuries-old as it is, Baekryunsa’s main hall contains many arresting paintings. Particularly intriguing are the creatures carved along its roof beams and in the corners of the hall. Many of the hall's features resemble those of a ship, because it was believed and is still

Gwangju News December 2010

Beyond Gwangju

Near Baekryunsa Tranquil and green year round, a camelia forest skirts the road to the temple, and it is an ideal place to think and to rest. Wild tea trees also grow nearby, and four steles found within the forest commemorate Baekryunsa’s past masters. Baekryunsa boasts a number of excellent walking and hiking trails also, and one particularly noteworthy trail extends from Baekryunsa to Dasan Chodang (the ancient cottage of exiled Confucian scholar Jeong Yakyeong). Two hundred years ago Jeong Yak-yeong and Baekryunsa’s master monk maintained a famed, twenty-year friendship with one another: they often visited each other to talk and drink tea together – despite their significant religious differences. In addition to this particular trail, edged in some places by tea fields, many other trails weave through the forests surrounding Baekryunsa also. Explorers hiking up Mandeok Mountain are greeted with increasingly captivating views of the countryside surrounding the mountain, whereas explorers walking down Mandeok Mountain approach and can gaze more closely upon the waters of Gangjin Bay.

they are inviting visitors to come and spend a weekend with them to learn more about temple life and about Buddhism as well. During the final weekend of each month – extending from Friday until Sunday – Ildam and his team will host a specific temple stay program and it will include tea making, tea drinking, bowing, meditation, chanting and other activities. Each month's program will be differently-themed also, so guests visiting Baekryunsa often will be rewarded with new experiences and information each time. For those wanting to experience a less-structured temple stay, outside of this weekend – during the rest of the month – no specific activities will be planned: guests will be free to spend their time as they please. An overnight stay including meals and a parting gift will cost each individual 50,000 won. Groups of five or more receive a discount and each individual will pay 40,000 won instead. People visiting the temple with the intention of staying overnight should bring toiletries, a towel, and sensible and weather-appropriate clothing.

Temple Stay

Getting to Baekryunsa

If you visit Gangjin to see Baekryunsa, why not spend the night?

The most effective way of reaching Gangjin from Gwangju is by bus, and buses depart frequently from Gwangju Bus Terminal for an approximate cost of 8,000 won (one-way). The bus ride lasts one hour and forty minutes.

Ildam Seunim is a monk living at Baekryunsa and prior to arriving there he lived for five years in the United States. Currently he and a team of others are developing Baekryunsa's temple stay program, and

Once you’ve arrived in Gangjin, the most effective way

Gwangju News December 2010

Beyond Gwangju

of reaching Baekryunsa is by taxi. For a fee of 5,000 won per person, however, Ildam Seunim will provide guests with transportation from Gangjin's bus terminal to Baekryunsa and back again to the bus terminal once guests are ready to depart. (This 5,000 won fee will be used directly to fuel Baekryunsa's van.) To arrange a visit and for more information please contact Ildam Seunim at 010-2969-8686 or ildams@hotmail.com. Baekryunsa's address and telephone number are 전라남도 강진군 도암면 만덕 리 246번지 백련사 and 061-432-0837. An Englishlanguage website is currently under development at www.baekryunsa.net, and though it has yet to be completed, it should be soon. Enjoy your stay! Story by Hughie Samson Photos courtesy of Ildam Seunim and Hughie Samson

Gwangju News December 2010

Local Scene

Steer Away from Brands I

t is easy to get lost within the maze that is downtown Gwangju, and also to forget where you saw an item one time in the past. With the fluctuating nature of the stores, you often end up never finding them again, so it is helpful to have a general guide to help steer you away from the big chain stores. It is easy to be overwhelmed with the endless bundles of clothes from one shop to another. A lot of the time stores stock the same garments at different prices, so it is always good to shop around for what you want, and sometimes to even try bartering. To ease you in to the workings of sinae, come out of the Culture Complex subway stop with the Kunsthalle (exhibition space with orange letters Kunsthalle on a big black cargo box) facing you and ‘North Face’ on your right. Steer right and you’ll come to the road with ‘Soul Train’ and ‘Tom N’ Toms’ on your left. Keep on the right and you will see ‘Co Co’. Step inside. Being fall, there is an abundance of sweaters, jackets, scarves, hats… anything to keep the cold from getting to you bones. There are a few golden nuggets in this store to be found. What I appreciated in particular were the T-shirts, as since the cold has dawned it is as if they go unworn. Try your hand at bartering too. It’s not common but if you are feeling a little cheeky then it’s worth it. A couple of shops down from there is ‘80’s’. What I like about this place is that everything is color coordinated and then placed next to partner colors that flatter each other. This is perhaps a strange thing to appreciate, but it is

helpful nevertheless. The prices here are a little high, averaging about 45,000 won for a jumper, but the quality of the garments is worth it. Across the road lies ‘Ddalgigongju’. I think what shamefully drove me to this store was its window display and general appearance. It looks like a small house in the midst of coffee shops, with a balcony and big red door that are difficult to miss. Once inside, I was immediately attracted to the layout and atmosphere of the store. Drifting away from jumpers and woolen items, there are party dresses, funky tops and nice bags, which I often find are a rarity in this town. The prices are steep but the quality is good, and perhaps it’s worth it after experiencing multiple static shocks from all of the polyester in clothes found elsewhere. Continue down this side of the street and when you come to a sign saying Baekseo-ro 123, turn left as if walking to M Town and you will come to ‘L29’. The sign is a little dark but it is the first store you see. There are a variety of delicious jackets and sweaters in here and the staff are very friendly. Prices are reasonable too. There are more stores around this area, so feel free to explore and wander. There are quite a few shops to occupy and satisfy you when the need for clothes rears its expensive, little head. Story and photos by Selina Orrell

Gwangju News December 2010

Travel

Motorcycling in Korea T

he morning sun feels warm on my back as I make my way through traffic. Towering apartment complexes form the backdrop to a busy industrial area with machine shops lining the road, and a bustling market with cuts of meat hanging on hooks, glistening in the morning sun. Out of nowhere a Harley passes me on the left, throttle wide open, strait pipes screaming the abrasive v-twin “ta ta ta ta”. I jump in the seat, clench the handle bars, and veer toward the right of my lane before I realize and smile. I catch up to the Harley at the next lights and he's got the stereo blasting traditional Korean music where a man is belting out lyrics over a cacophony of eastern sounding instruments. This makes me laugh, but I'm overpowered as the Harley tears away through the red light in an explosion of sound and glinting chrome. Mountains burst from the river plain as I exit the city, chasing the yellow line as it curves and dips towards the coast. I pass rice paddies stacked in giant steps making their way up the mountain slopes, and red peppers drying on black sheets along the road. I can smell the sharp aroma of the peppers mixed with cool mountain air and the warm smell of late summer. As the ocean appears on my left I see a sign for “Korea's scenic road 77.” I follow it south down the peninsula towards Tongyeong City.

Gwangju News December 2010

Road 77 is fantastic, and follows the coast all the way, rising and falling over the cliffs. The views are spectacular; on my left the ocean stretching as far as the eye can see, dotted with islands, and to the right the mountainous landscape of the peninsula rising up and away from the road. I stop at a sign that says, “Dinosaur Footprints” and walk down to where big circular indentations have been left in the flat rock by the water's edge. It's not difficult to imagine dinosaurs walking along the water here beside the sparkling ocean, with islands in the distance and tree covered mountains. I take the exit for Geoje Island and a suspension bridge looms ahead. As I cross there's a moment where I feel like I'm flying over the ocean, the salty air rushing past my helmet and Geoje Island sprawled out ahead, awaiting my arrival. On Geoje I head south following coastal road 1018, a two-laner winding its way beside mountains with uninterrupted views of the ocean with its checkerboards of fishing nets laid out across the water. I pass long green houses filled with ripe pineapples and ajummas nodding off in the shade beside tables piled high with fruit. I stop beside one of the tables and, after some haggling, part with 5,000 won in exchange for a good sized pineapple. The ajumma smiles under her

Travel

giant flower print sun visor, maybe because even after my haggling I still overpaid. I continue on to where a small road takes me down to a deserted beach, and I find a spot in the sun beside the water. I set up camp on Gujora Beach. It's tucked into a small bay, and the cream-coloured sand disappears into clear blue water. I swim and then relax, propped against a rock, beer in hand enjoying the warm afternoon sun. I'll build a fire soon and have a beach BBQ but for now I'll just sit and take it all in. Gujora beach is located on the eastern side of the island off coastal road 14, south of Mokpo. The coordinates for the beach are N34 48.557 E128 41.445, and can be typed into Google maps.

Previous page: Goheung; This page: Top left: Jirisan; Top right: Beach grill; Bottom right: Pineapple Beach; Background image: Gujora Beach

Story and photos by Adrian Tegler

Gwangju News December 2010

World News

Home Pages Want to write about news from your country? Contact the Editor for more information: gwangjunews@gmail.com.

Australia Holy booze! The most important piece of news from the land “Down Under” is the recent remonstrations aimed at public schools, in particular Catholic schools for holding “happy hour” on Friday nights in teachers’ staffrooms. Fingers are shaking not only because teachers are drinking on school premises, but some staffrooms even have alcohol price lists stuck to their fridges. Although there are no formal policies regarding alcohol consumption after school hours and without the presence of students, there are “grave concerns about the example being set for students”. I’d say what’s most concerning about this story is that the teachers are “getting stuck into cheap booze”. Surely then these educators aren’t getting paid enough. http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/news/happy-hour-inschool-staff-rooms/story-e6freuy9-1225957381180.

By Kathleen Villadiego

India

experience it. During their visit the Obamas shook hands and steps in rhythm with the children who performed Bollywood dance. It came as a surprise for the teacher who choreographed the dance they sighed that the Obamas picked up the moves with utmost perfection even though it was a fast dance. Later, President Obama admitted Michelle surprised him with her dancing skills in Mumbai— and she is a better dancer. However, seeing is believing and nothing will be better; “watch the Obamas Bollywood Dance video here: http://www.thedailybeast.com/video/item/michelle-obamadances-in-mumbai” By Pradeep Kumar S.

Indonesia Sitting along the Pacific “Ring of Fire”, the Indonesian archipelago is prone to natural disasters, one of which happened last month. On October 25, a tsunami swept away the villages on the Mentawai Islands, famous for their surfing among avid surfers all over the world. The waves were triggered by a 7.2-magnitude quake and took nearly 450 lives, while badly damaging around 25,400 houses (The Jakarta Post).

Obamas dance - Bollywood style. Fun in mist of high diplomacy in India!

The following day, in the central part of Indonesia, the Merapi started its eruption and has so far taken more than 250 human lives.

President Obama and the First Lady visited India earlier this November, a few days ahead of the G20 summit. His motives behind the trip were to build on friendship, establish a strong partnership and bilateral relationship, build commercial ties and international economy.

The biggest Merapi eruption in decades happened on the November 5,2010, where the ash plumes carried to Bandung, a city more than 500 kilometres away from the volcano. A 2-centimetre thick blanket of volcanic ash covered Yogyakarta, the cultural city 60 kilometres away from the volcano.

“The Obamas tour was not merely a business trip”, they spent time celebrating Diwali, cultural activities and handling questions by school and college students in Mumbai which included an opportunity for the Obamas to brush with Bollywood dance. A totally new experience for them! Well, all this must have helped Mr. Obama to get his mind off the midterm election results. President Obama before his visit had said that “You do not visit India, you experience it". So I do feel they truly did 30

Gwangju News December 2010

Some of the first to die from the eruption were those who came up to the village trying to convince people to leave their homes. Merapi is situated in an area where some of the people hold firm beliefs that the volcano is sacred, so when it starts to spew volcanic materials, they need to stay and pray to calm Merapi instead of fleeing. By Media Romadona

World News

Uganda

Vietnam Millennial Anniversary of Hanoi In October 2010, the Vietnamese had a ten-day celebration of the M i l l e n n i a l Anniversary of Hanoi, the longlasting capital of Vietnam. In 1010, Ly Thai To, the first Emperor of the Ly Dynastic (1009 -1225) decided to move the capital from Hoa Lu to Dai La Citadel (Ha Noi in present). He made a wise decision moving the capital from a mountainous region to a wide plain with a Red river basin at the center. The new capital was named Thang Long, meaning Flying Dragon with the hope that this would open a new prosperous and powerful age for Vietnamese. During the millennium of preservation and development, Ha Noi has always been the center of culture, politics and economics in Vietnam. On October 1, 2010, Phu-Trong Nguyen, the Chairman of the Assembly National of Vietnam offered flame and solemnly declared a ceremony of Millennial Anniversary of Thang Long – Ha Noi. By Thanh Hai – Sao Mai

New Zealand Exhumation, please.. While New Zealand is hardly well-known for much, not many places can say this. The small North Island town of Ruatoria, Gisborne (situated on the east coast) woke up with one hell of a shock to find eight bodies had been swept away from the local cemetery last month. Matahiia Cemetery is situated near a river which eroded away the burial ground, and with it sweeping away the eight bodies. The locals are far from happy with the district council; with many saying they have voiced their concerns for years over the cemetery.

Do you want another rap? Never did I think my beloved president would put out a rap song! At 66, Uganda’s president has released a rap song! “Do you want another rap?” is the title. Since Sir Winston Churchill called Uganda the “Pearl of Africa”, nothing this spectacular has ever come out of the country. A rapping president is something special. Every 5 years, the top brass of this beautiful East African country take broadway to the people in the name of presidential campaigns. All sorts of entertainment is meted out to the masses; promises of roads without potholes, freebies in the form of salt, soap and sugar, brown envelopes thick with cash and now rap songs. I believe that’s the sleekest definition of Uganda. It shows we can change with times but we stay as graceful as our national bird - The Crested Crane! Now, if you want another rap check out ‘http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Bw9TPA9k0M’ with love from Uganda. By Edward Musisi

South Africa South Africa is not just called “The Rainbow Nation”1 because of the great weather. On Reconciliation Day we celebrate having overcome decades of horrific racial hatred to emerge a nation diverse enough that any Asian, black, white or coloured born in the country will toyi-toyi2 loud ‘ n proud on the streets to proclaim their heritage. With a reputation for haggling over Politically Correct terms, we swing from being overly touchy about race to being wickedly roguish, where the oke3 who comes up with the most Dutchman4 jokes in an evening gets to take home that last case of Lager. But, whatever we look like, we’re always up for a jol, so remember to Hug a South African on December 16. Why? Because, my china 5, spreading the love is lekker!6 (Plus, we are cuddly).

So now, the council is being forced to spend $30,000 (US$23,000) to relocate the cemetery to higher ground. Oh, and locate the missing bodies. Better late than never, I guess.

1.Also a reference to our national flag which crams in all the colours it can. 2. A favoured activity of bored SAns which refers to loudly and often futilely protesting with dance, chants, whistles, vuvuzelas, and other noisy instruments of choice. 3. Bloke/dude/guy. 4. A humourous way of to referring to the stereotypical red-faced Afrikaaner ‘farmer’ with his thick accent and not-so-high IQ. 5. My bru/my buddy/my homie. 6 party/celebration 7 The SAn version of ‘Assah!’

By Julian Raethel

By Ann Juli James

Gwangju News December 2010

Festival Review

The 7th Gwangju Indie Music Festival y the time I arrive, tie up my bike and say hello to Dan the drummer outside, a group of four young men are making a fair-sweet racket downstairs. The three mop-top guitarists at first look seem like clones, but the pony-tailed drummer looks so clearly energetic he’s about to jump off his stool and through the roof on the next beat, ending up outside back on the street. Miraculously, his drumming is good; for all his jumping around out of his seat his timing is sharp and he drives the sound of this band, which a girl tells me is called 9 and The Numbers. On top of the great singing the song changes tempo, letting the guitars’ sound effects stand out. A good band with great songs is a fine way to start a Gwangju Indie Music Festival.

I ask around to find out who’s on next. The long list of bands waiting to perform on stage is almost more crowded than the sparse audience in front of it, and they are an hour behind schedule as well. The girl near the sound desk says the four young guys now setting up are a high school band called Dal Tokki, meaning Moon Rabbit. They set up quickly in front of the excitable young audience. The drummer is wearing a cheap nylon jacket with a turned-up collar, and as he finishes tightening symbols, shifting drums and setting his seat, he leans back confidently into his jacket collar and thumps his sticks down a few times, hard. This brings squeals and a burst of applause before the band even really starts. Happy with the response of the drums and the Girls Up Front (GUF), he counts straight into his band’s first song for the night. The lead singer in this group is confident and capable but the bass player is the lead character on stage. He is a natural front-man, talking to the audience between songs, shaggy-haired smiles and jumps off the fold-back

Gwangju News December 2010

speakers beside the drums. Their songs ooze personality, confidence and energy, being perfect rock numbers: simple, sweet, fast, and fun. Following on from them, a band called Honey Bread take the stage. The band remind me a bit of the British band Garbage; clearly, the band members here are the creative genius musicians who write and direct their very good songs, and they found a fragile new female talent to be their singer. They use samples really well, and the guitar has a beautiful clean jangly sound. As Honey Bread leave the stage, four more guys stroll on. The last is long lanky lad with a mop of naturally shaggy red hair: Dan the drummer is on with Betty Ass again! It takes them moments to start their first song of pure pop-punk power amidst guttural grunts and half-strangled screams. Dan’s rapid-fire drumming punches through the discordant distorted guitars to pull the sound together, and then suddenly their first song is over within the two minutes of magic mayhem. It’s a torrential down-pour of sound wiping the stage clean for their refreshing take on punk music. Their set closes with their finale favourite, Country Roads played at a hyper-surreal speed. They don’t slow down for the clap-along chorus, or for the guitarist who loses his cap from jumping around too much in front of the drums. Betty Ass was a simple, refreshing blast of raw energy and fun. The next band to take the stage, strangely, seems to have only two members. A tall, skinny guitarist with a pseudoAfro super-perm warms up: he spins sharp blues riffs off his raw sounding unusual white Fender Stratocaster while the drummer takes his time setting up his kit. The drummer, in contrast, looks like some random nice guy who just walked in off the street, except he takes so long setting up, and has

Festival Review

band joins in and it sounds more like the whole cave is collapsing around the poor fairies, and yet the sense of beauty remains. Their music is not as much about energy and excitement as the other bands, but more a hypnotic interweaving of intriguing sounds. Both guitarists sing, which adds to the texture. They are not trying to be singers, but more like sound-smiths, or, as Dan the Shoe-gazer says, sonic architects.

such confidence in doing so, that the young audience’s level of interest grows the longer he takes. Eventually the guitarist’s warm-up riffs grow longer and more fluid, slipping and sliding over the guitar and stabbing out from the speakers. Suddenly they’re actually playing a song and it is the most basic and powerful musical relationship seen on stage yet. Having only two performers usually leaves more empty space to fill and so more room for error, but the drummer is so tight and precise that the guitar’s sounds either drape over the rigid tempo or bounce straight off it, interweaving with his own vocals. It’s a raw rock sound pulled straight from the blues and nearly similar to The White Stripes but with a harder, faster kick in the pants from the drums. After about four songs the band transition into a song so fast, simple, and so powerful it pulls everyone along for the ride at break-neck speed. No one was quite sure how to move to the sound and so we just stand around, mesmerized and transfixed. The end is like a release which melds into their “last song” and a return to a hard, driving blues number. The GUF are so hyped and everyone is so loud with applause at the sudden end that the band seems to steal precious extra minutes for another finale and an extra simple, extra-catchy blues-riff driven piece. I found out later that band’s name is Army, and they play regularly in bars around Hongik University, in the north west of Seoul. By this time my friend Dan has arrived; not Dan the drummer but Dan the shoe-gazer fan. Next up is Pigeon Milk, who he has heard before and describes as “a very good “shoe-gaze” band.” As they begin, the woman with the beautiful Fender Jaguar guitar makes it ring, and a sound like fairies singing delicately in an echoing cave reverberates around the large room. Suddenly the whole

After their glorious set, Dan and I decide to head upstairs for a breather. By the time we get back, we’ve completely missed “G-grand” but arrive in time to catch the start of Yellow Monster a hard rock three-piece of guys in their thirties with both musical experience and personal confidence to burn. They light up the stage from the minute they’re on board. The guitarist at the front demands attention immediately, asking repeatedly and excitedly: “Are you ready?! … Are YOU ready?! … Are you READY?!” before launching into a perfect set of power-chord rock and searing lead guitar attacks. This noisy three-piece is so clearly audible it verges on an aural bludgeoning. They finish off with a cover of “Sweet Child of Mine” that has most of the crowd jumping along in time. The next band, The Moonshiners, are obviously already well established within the nation’s indie music scene, judging by the volume of the screaming girls upon their arrival. The four men are confident, energetic, and have the smooth coordination that only comes with playing together often. Their music is early rock and roll with a sharp modern edge to it, and they seem to blend elements of style from swamp rock through to grunge. The straight backbone is provided by the drummer’s clean, proficient technique and precision timing, allowing the three boys up front to ring out clearly in their separate roles. By the fifth song the raunchy blues has the boys at the front of the stage so worked up that the lead singer accidently knocks his microphone out of its stand while swinging his guitar around. He recovers well, shaking his backside at the GUF in tempo while he gets his microphone under control, then drops straight back into his vocals at the start of the next line. Meantime the others continue playing cool and dropping in the BVs: “Wop, bop; wop, bop!” The loud and enthusiastic demand for the “N-core” (encore) sees him pick up his silver Stratocaster again for the fuller rock sound finale. When The Moonshiners concluded, Dan and I slipped out into the cool autumnal Gwangju night air, leaving the band to the happy young fans. After reminiscing on the much enjoyed night, we give thanks that the organizers of the Gwangju Indie Music Festival and the Nevermind music performance café are still putting on a great, great show.

By Julian Warmington Photos by Wendy Perkins

Gwangju News December 2010

Biography

Dazzling and Deadly: On Kelly Shepherd’s the bony world a horse snorts a frog croaks and the night bursts out in stars

elly Shepherd’s remarkable chapbook of nature poetry entitled the bony world is prefaced by two quotations, one of which is from Thinking Animals by Paul Shephard:

Birds become ideas. They flit through consciousness, connecting with this twig and that branch, are attended to momentarily, and in a flash are gone. Birds are not like ideas. That is a literary simile. They are ideas. Birds. Ideas. Become. Many birds inhabit the bony world: egrets, loons, crows, blue jays, owls, magpies, and others. And the book is as packed with ideas: we are interconnected with and dependent upon nature; life feeds on life; existence is inexplicably lovely. But the crafted descriptions of nature and the dramatic presentations of ideas do not give the book its vitality. The text soars through instances of language that evoke the suddenly flashing into and the swiftly flitting out of existence that is the enigmatic experience of becoming and thus being human.

a frog croaks and the night bursts out in stars We are as crude, monotonous and comical as a frog’s croak, and yet as dazzling as a night sky bursting out in stars. Shepherd’s poetry helps me re-realize the truth that humanity is nature, is magic, is as much a gorgeous work of art as it is a makeshift farce. Each of us is a bewildering miracle called being alive, but not for long. And in the midst of this vicious evanescence, facing absurdity, cruelty and beauty, what are we doing? We are building a bony world.

moss-covered, tree-shadowed porcupine-gnawed: the skeleton of a moose we made war-clubs out of jagged vertebrae 34

Gwangju News December 2010

reunited scattered ribs into a circular fence built a tripod of straight poles in the center, for the skull we wondered what archaeologists would think of it, in another hundred years – as if our sculptures of slippery willow and binder twine and logs already wet and red with decay would hold these things together when even the bull moose itself had failed to do that as if our hiding places in the forest would always be ours as if we would always be able to go back Our world is made of and powered by the remains of the dead. The lives we labor to build for ourselves, our own little worlds, are bony. They will not always be ours. Even now, we cannot go back to them. And how we interact with the rest of nature from this moment on will determine how well and for how long our bony world survives. Of course, nothing lives forever.

an owl’s silence is a rabbit’s scream The first two lines of “on breaking an owl pellet apart with your fingers” do not merely portray life and death and their interdependent relationship. A truth, silent and unforgiving, swoops down from my mind toward a feeling hiding in the night of my heart. Again and again in Shepherd’s verse there are moments when a seemingly innocuous and pleasant description of nature suddenly strikes out and delivers mortal reality. Our reality. We are owls. We are rabbits. Yet, even though I find much to admire and enjoy in the bony world, Shepherd’s poems are not without flaws. Descriptions of nature sometimes fail, uses of language are occasionally more distracting than effective, and one or two ideas verge on cliché. Grasshoppers don’t “shamanrattle” anything. I do not understand what “circumpolar prehistory” could possibly be. And a narrative poem in

Biography/ Useful Korean Phrases

which a bus driver slash hunter tells riveted schoolchildren the story of how he killed a “pure white deer” and then never bagged another deer again is an environmentalist’s message running the reader over with a school bus. So, there are moments that are relatively weaker or distracting to me because of what I like or dislike, but there is a lot more to appreciate in the bony world than there is to disparage.

a magpie flew past so close its tail feathers left a razor cut across my forehead The magpie is one of the few animals in the world to pass the mirror test, which checks whether or not an animal recognizes itself in a mirror. The sudden violence of the above stanza sharpens my being even as my mind is cut. Through that lashing, that poetic violence, I receive the experience of being startled alive. And I think that is the greatest gift poetry offers: the gift of giving us back to ourselves, waking us up and reminding us of what and who we really are and that we have this bizarre and amazing, sweet and bitter, strange and lovely chance to be alive, to be free, to create. For now.

Kelly Shepherd’sBiography Kelly Shepherd’s poetry and nonfiction writing have appeared in numerous print and online publications (including the Gwangju News). In 2003, Iceland’s Publishing Beyond Borders released Kelly’s first poetry chapbook, Circumambulations. Sometimes a teacher, sometimes a construction worker, and always a traveler, Kelly is currently a graduate student in Religious Studies at the University of Alberta, in Canada.

By Daniel Walker

flower garden, white picket fence - magpie eats dead squirrel’s face

Useful Korean Phrases 안' vs Adverb '못 못' Adverb '안

John: It was fun. Many friends of mine came. My friends liked Korean Food very much.

소 라: 그 래 요 ? 존 씨 , 생 일 축 하 해 요 .

Dialogue

[Geuraeyo? Jonssi, saengil chukhahaeyo.]] Sora: Really? John, Happy birthday.

소라: 안녕하세요. 존씨? [annyeonghaseyo, jonssi] Sora: Hello, John?

존: 안 녕 하 세 요 . 소 라 씨 ? 어 제 생 일 파 티 에 왜 안 왔 어 요 ? [Annyeonghaseyo, Sorassi, eoje saengilpatie wae an waseoyo?] John: Hello, Sora? Why didn't you come to my birthday party yesterday?

소 라: 광 주 에 서 언 니 가 갑 자 기 왔 어 요 . 그 래 서 못 갔 어 요 . 미안해요. [Gwangjueseo eonniga gapjagi waseoyo. Geuraeseo mot gaseoyo. Mianhaeyo.] Sora: My older sister suddenly came from Gwangju. So I couldn't come. I am sorry.

Vocabulary: 어제 [eoje]: yesterday 생일파티 [saengilpati]: birthday party 왜 [wae]: why 많이 [mani]: a lot, many,much 숙제 [sukje]: homework

Grammar Adverb '안' vs adverb '못’ 안' : do not 1. Adverb '안 The abverb '안' is used to express the negative and means 'do not'. '안' is put before the verb.

존: 괜 찮 아 요 .

Example: 파티에 안 갔어요. ( I did not go to the party.) 숙제를 안 했어요. ( I did not do my homework.)

[Gwaenchanayo] John: That's OK.

못' : want to do but can not 2. Adverb '못

소 라: 생 일 파 티 는 어 땠 어 요 ?

The adverb '못' is used with action verbs, and means impossibility or strong denial and refusal.

[Saengilpatineun eottaeseoyo?] Sora: How was the birthday party?

존: 재미있었어요. 친구들이 많이 왔어요. 친구들이 한국음식을 아주 좋아했어요. [Jaemiiseoseoyo. Chingudeuri mani waseoyo. Chingudeuri hangugeumsigeul aju joahaeseoyo]

Example: 파티에 못 갔어요. (I cannot go to the party.) 숙제를 못 했어요. ( I could not do my homework.)

By Jung Soo-a Jung Soo-a is an instructor at the GIC Korean Language Class

Gwangju News December 2010

Restaurant Review

Junghwachon 중화촌 any who live in Korea surely have no trouble finding out in no time that Korean Chinese restaurants basically just revolve around jajangmyeon and jjamppong. One might find oneself asking whether there is really a place in Gwangju which serves an authentic Chinese cuisine.

Junghwachon or Mandarin Village is tucked among apartment buildings behind Chonnam University’s Business College in an area known as Sangdea-dui. This restaurant is an oasis for those who are looking for real Chinese cuisine. The most concrete evidence is that the chefs are Chinese and Kimchi is not even served. The interior of the restaurant is modern and Chinese songs are constantly being played. The restaurant is rather small, but is enough to cater for up to 50 customers. For first-timers, one might be surprised to see the variety of dishes on the menu; there are more than 50 in total, ranging from side dishes (basically rice and a dish), to main meals (both hot and cold dishes). China’s Tsingtao beer is also available.

Recommended dishes:

宮保鷄丁 땅콩닭고기볶음 (Kungpao chicken)

西紅枾炒鷄蛋 토마토계란볶음 (Stir-fried tomato and egg)

京醬肉絲 돼지고기자장볶음 (Sauteed shredded pork in bean sauce)

地三鮮 감자,가지,고추볶음 (Sauteed pepper, potato & eggplant)

With the menu in Chinese, Korean, English and with photos, there’ll be no problems ordering. For set menus, around 10,000 won will get a hot dish, a rice dish and two homemade steamed breads. The dishes are diverse though people’s favorites are the Chinese-style Stir-fried Tomato and Egg and Kung Pao Chicken which uses tender breast meat mixed with peanuts and green pepper, which provides an extra taste of spiciness. Another favorite is Mapa Tofu, which is tofu dipped in hot bean sauce. Some meals use ‘mala’, a kind of Sichuan pepper and probably the reason behind their spiciness. If you are not a big fan of spicy foods, you can check the level of spiciness on the menu. Unlike the common stereotype of Chinese dishes, the food in Mandarin Village is not greasy. The owner, Choi Bang-eun, is often present to attend to incoming customers. He is fluent in Chinese also speaking a little English. He is very friendly and very attentive in handling his customers’ needs. The restaurant doesn’t currently offer a delivery service. If you want to take out, you may call him beforehand and pick up yourself. With a new barbecue menu recently added, why not visit this winter to stay warm and enjoy a real taste of China. 36

Gwangju News December 2010

糖醋肉 탕수육 (Sweet and sour pork)

春卷 춘권 (Spring rolls)

By Karina Prananto Photos courtesy of Choi Bang-eun

중화촌 (Mandarin Village) _ Address: Yongbong-dong 1237-10 (In front of Hoban Apartment Entrance Gate), Buk-gu, Gwangju _ Opening hours: 10 am – 10 pm (Closed on every 2nd & 4th Sunday) _ Tel: 062-523-8886 _ Bus direction: 26, 30, 56, 57 (get off at Yongchu Elementary School, turn left at the SK Gas Station and walk straight until you see the restaurant on your left) _ Facebook Group (Chinese Restaurant in Gwang-ju) offers pictures of the menu and a map to the restaurant.

Recipe

Korean Easy-Cook Recipe

된장찌개 Soybean Paste Soup

oenjang (soybean paste), gochujang (red pepper paste) and soy sauce are important ingredients in Korean cooking. They provide the rich, distinctive, dominant flavors of Korean food along with many health benefits. For example, doenjang, a highly nutritious substance, is said to be one of the most effective fermented foods for preventing cancer. Also, along with the ability to prevent high blood pressure by lowering cholesterol levels, doenjang’s many antioxidants are said to have anti aging effects.

If you want to give this delicious health food a try, consider experimenting with the following recipe for doenjang jjigae, a popular Korean dish. Doenjang jjigae, a kind of soup, includes a variety of ingredients such as doenjang, potatoes, green pumpkins, onion, clams, and tofu; all mixed together in a flavorful doenjang and anchovy broth. Story and photos by Yang Hee-seon Yang Hee-seon is a junior majoring in Business Management at Chonnam National University

How to make Soybean paste soup Things to prepare: doenjang, anchovies, green pumpkin, onion, potatoes, clams, chilies, tofu, green onion, and winter mushrooms. Cooking method: 1. Slice and cut up a choice amount of green pumpkin, onion, chilies, and tofu while boiling a pot filled a little over halfway with water. 2. Add anchovies to the boiling water to make an anchovy soup stock; keep boiling. 3. Use a sieve to dissolve the doenjang into the boiling water. 4. Add chopped pieces of green pumpkin and onion into the pot first, boil for a few minutes to soften. 5. Continue boiling, then add tofu, winter mushrooms, chili, green onion, potatoes, clams, and any other choice ingredients. (You can also add some red chili powder, if desired.) 6. Boil for 2 or 3 more minutes. Enjoy! Gwangju News December 2010

Movie Review

as a catalyst for change in the lives of the film’s main characters, who are directly and indirectly linked to her death. From such an opening scene, the film drops in intensity and continues with much plotted symbolism into the characterization of its main player. We first meet her as she is waiting for her doctor’s appointment in the town’s hospital waiting room. As her conversation with the doctor begins, we are soon served up several opportunities to peer past the cleverly brocaded and chic exteriors of the 66 year-old, Mi-ja, played by the celebrated Yoon Jeong-hee, who sprung from a 15 year retirement specifically for this role. Within her masterfully played character, we find that Mi-ja is far more than just an elderly woman losing her slow battle with Alzheimer’s and that she (시), as if the pun could not be more expressly intended, represents not only the disconnected every-woman of Korean society searching for self discovery and expression. In addition, her character embodies the personification of Korean poetry struggling for coherency, at the end of its life, nearly forgotten, and left to dressing itself up in pretty coverings in a perfectly common Korean attempt to hide the slow rot within.

Poetry 시 Director: Lee Chang-dong Release date: May 13, 2010 Starring: Yang Mi-ja, Lee Da-wit, Kim Hui-ra, Ahn Nae-sang Runtime: 139 minutes

s a brilliantly masterminded poetic commentary on the state of modern Korean society, this new film from director Lee Chang-dong has us follow the life of a 66 year old woman as she goes through a troublesome yet noteworthy period of Alzheimer-plagued self discovery.

Interestingly, the film begins with a small group of young boys who stumble across the body of a drowned middle school girl floating in the river next to which they are playing. It is quickly revealed that the girl’s drowning was in fact a reactionary suicide to her being continually raped and sexually abused by a group of boys from her same grade. The slow but poignant unraveling of the dead girl’s story serves as a major driving force in the movie, and it simultaneously acts 38

Gwangju News December 2010

Concurrently, the Alzheimer’s plaguing Mi-ja’s character is not to be overlooked, for it is as much a reflection of her selfexpression’s mental degradation as it is a symbolic representation of poetry being lost or forgotten by a literarily diseased modern Korean culture. A key to the recognition of this lies in the film’s main theme - that nothing is uniformly as its facade would have it seem. This theme is so finely wrought into each scene, setting, and character that when the film is viewed as a whole or scene by scene, one can find within a firmly constructed yet subtly indirect commentary on not only the slow death of Korean poetry, but on modern Korea society in general. While this film is very much about the process of self discovery within Mi-ja’s character and the rediscovery of poetry, it is in the parallelism of Mi-ja with that of the dead rape victim that we find the film’s true and biting social commentary. Linked by their sufferings in Korea’s male dominated society, the parallelism between Mi-ja and the dead school girl shows us that everyone and everything, even lies and dignity, have their price in modern Korean society. The harsh and multilayered reality of this film will likely captivate and enthrall those who have, with inquisitive and open eyes, experienced for themselves what it is to live in Korea. Sadly though, the film’s powerful subtlety comes across as hard to digest for those individuals who have not once made Korea their home. To those not without such experience, I affirm that Poetry (시) is a uniquely ingenious masterwork of cinema. Disregard nothing at face value and simply enjoy. By Justin Palamarek

Health

Staying Healthy Battling the Gamgi he stresses of living in a foreign environment can acutely affect the mind and body, especially the immune system. Compound this by the fact that some ex-pats (foreigners) in Korea may never have experienced a bone chilling (cold) winter—e.g., South Africans or Southeast Asians—and cold and flu season can be miserable.

Many foreigners may feel apprehensive about a trip to the doctor, since the patient is very likely to receive only a confirmation that yes, they have a runny nose, and the doctor could give a shot for good measure. For those of us who share a fear of needles, self-medication may be in order. This is what I decided after three consecutive weeks of stomach ailments and a lingering cold, when I finally surrendered and trudged into the nearest yakguk. Most pharmacists will not understand your problem if you only speak English, but they will probably get the point if you can only muster a coarse whisper or if you frantically mime the symptoms you are experiencing. After a short spell of half-coughed complaints, the woman at my pharmacy handed me a small orange box labeled “푸푸-F,” transliterated as “PooPoo-F.” A little perplexed, I mimed that my bowels were doing just fine. Apparently unaware of the fecal connotations, she smiled and assured me in the standard English-Korean-Konglish pidgin that PooPoo would actually treat my cold symptoms.

Gi Seon-ju, a teacher in Munheung-dong, recommends a more traditional remedy. For many years, the mother of two has used a simple recipe apparently popular among Koreans. All that is required is an Asian pear, honey, ginger root, and doraji root, called bellflower in English. Peel and halve the pear, then fill the core with honey, thinly sliced ginger, and doraji. Steam for 10 to 15 minutes, brace yourself, and consume. If you have a cough, Mrs. Gi says to add some bean sprouts and (with) red pepper. The other popular Korean remedy I came across sounds obvious to most of us: chicken soup. The various Korean versions may have a lot more garlic, red pepper, or other flavors, but the idea is the same. Mothers and doctors the world over offer this advice to anyone feeling under the weather. Other than that, of course, get plenty of rest, avoid the soju, and, for everyone's sake, wash your hands. A little soap will go a long way, especially if you are a student, teacher, or are working in a crowded environment. And if all else fails, try the PooPoo pills. By Austin Lewis Illustration by Jen Lee

Comic

Gwangju News December 2010

Cartoon

Gwangju News December 2010

Upcoming Events

Festival

Boseong Tea Fields Festival of Lights December 17, 2011 ~ February 6, 2011 Jeollanam-do,Boseong-gun Hoecheon-myeon Yeongcheon-ri Botjae Tea Plantation, Dahyanggak Pavilion Observatory This winter a magnificent festival of lights will take place in the green tea fields of Boseong, one of Korea’s most well-known tourist destinations. A large tree will be set up and various other places will be decorated with lights in the Hoecheon-myeon, Yeongcheon-ri regions. The festival will send a message of hope for the New Year to tourists and residents who visit Boseong during the winter period. For more info: www.boseong.go.kr or 061-850-5221 (Korean only)

year after bidding farewell to the final sunset is held at many other popular tourist sites around Busan, including at Yongdoosan Park and Haeundae Beach. It is the largest and the only winter themed festival in Korea which contains 2 different events such as Sunrise Festival (Haeundae) and Citizen's Bell-ringing(Yongdoosan Park). For more info: http://festival.busan.kr/ ENG

Exhibitions World Rare Jewel Exhibition

Kimdaejung Convention center Contact: 062-360-2600 Admission fee: Adult: 12,000won Children: 10,000 won

Performances Kim Jang-Hoon, Psy, "Wan Ta Chi Concert in G wangju" *Wan Ta Chi is a Korean slang which means ‘one big battle to finish and end the fight between two guys’ Date : December 18, 2010 Time : 7 p.m. Location: Gwangju Yum-Ju Stadium (염주체육관) Admission Fee: from 55,000 won ~ 110,000 won Singers Kim Jang-Hoon and Psy have recently released a new album. They have performed the Wan Ta Chi Concert 24 times in Korea. Their concerts are famous for scale and the experience. Nanta in Gwangju

December 18 - 26, 2010 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. Kimdaejung Convention Center Admission: Adult : 12,000won Student: 8,000won children : 5,000won (admission free for children under 5) Contact: 062-432-1004 TRICK ART Date: Dec. 24, 2010 (Starting at 6 p.m. and 9.30 p.m.), Dec. 25, 2010 (Starting at 2 p.m. and 6 p.m.) Location: Gwangju Culture and Art Center Admission Fee: 45,000 to 55,000won

2011 The New Year Festival, Busan December 31, 2010 ~ January 1, 2011 Yongdusan Park, Haeundae Beach, Busan Citizen's Bell Tolling Ceremony, Sunrise Event 2011 The New Year Festival which greets the first sunrise of the new 42

Gwangju News December 2010

December 11 ~ February 27, 2011 Time: 10 a.m. ~ 7 p.m.

A Non-verbal performance integreates Korea's traditional rhythm, Samulnori, with comedy and drama in the kitchen. Nanta made its international debut in 1999 at the Edingburgh Fringe Festival in which it received an award for best performance. More Info: http://nanta.i-pmc.co.kr

Upcoming Events

Movies

[ Photo Exhibition ]

Chungjangno 5-ga (two blocks back behind Migliore) Phone: 062-224-5858 Films change weekly to bi-weekly. Check online for calendar and prices. Admission fee: 8,000 won, 21,000 won for 3 films The following movies will be shown in December:

‘Like them, I am there’ by Poet and peace activist, Nohae PARK

Period: December 3 - December 30, 2010 Venue: Lotus Gallery at Mugaksa Temple, Gwangju Time: 10 a.m. - 10 p.m., Monday - Sunday Cost: Free Meet NoHae Park on December 30 (Thursday) at 6.30 p.m. How to get there: Bus 45, 50 (Sangmu hospital) / Subway Uncheon Station Exit No. 3/4 Contact: 062-383-0070 www.likethem.kr *120 pictures taken by Nohae Park for the last 10 years in Africa, Middle East, Asia, Middle South America and other countries of poverty and conflicts will be exhibited.

1. The Limits of Control Genre: Mystery, Drama Starring: Isaach De Bankole, Bill Murray, Tilda Swinton, Gael Garcia Bernal Language: English

2. I, Don Giovanni Genre: Drama Starring: Lorenzo Balducci, Guanciale, Tobias Moretti Language: Italian, Spanish

Lino

3. Five Days without Nora Genre: Drama Starring: Fernando Lujan, Cecilia Suarez Language: Spanish

4. The Secret in Their Eyes Genre: Drama, Mystery, Romance Starring: Ricardo Darin, Soledad Villamil Language: Spanish

5. Toilet Genre: Drama Starring: David Rendall, Alex House, Tatiana Maslany, Masako Motai Language: English

The poet, Nohae PARK was born in 1958 in Goheung. In 1983, he made his literary debut with the publication of “The Dream of an Inferior” in the journal, “Poetry and Economy.” His first collection of poems, “The Dawn of Labor” was well received among university students and intellectuals, triggering the socalled labor literature in the 1980s. His book <The Dawn of Labor> became the forbidden book by the military government but still sold almost million copies and he became famous as “The poet without face”. He then organized the <South Korean Socialist workers Union> in 1989 and was arrested after being wanted for 7 years. He got the death sentence at first and then later switched to the life in prison. In 1997 his essay Man is Only Hope was released while he was still in prison. He was given the special pardon by the former president Kim Daejung in 1998. The article on Nohae PARK from the Korea Times : http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/ www/news/art/2010/11/142_75404.html

[ GIC Gallery ] “Since we're here... New work by Mesa Schumacher” Mesa Schumacher will show her new artworks at GIC Gallery. She was born in Seattle and now teaches English in Gwangju. She studied Anatomy and Science at Stanford University and works as a Science artist and illustrator. She normally works with biological cultural subjects. Around 90 artworks which include illustrations, paintings and photos will be shown in this exhibition.

6. Heartbeats Genre: Drama, Romance Starring: Monia Chokri, Niels Schneider, Xavier Dolan Language: English

Exhibition period: Dec. 4 - 31, 2010 Opening with Artist’s Talk: December 4 (Sat) 3 p.m. at GIC Gallery

Gwangju News December 2010

Community Board

Gwangju News Mailing We are sending Gwangju News to each of you every month but some members do not receive it because of incorrect address or no address at all. If you wish to update your mailing information or if you do not receive Gwangju News, kindly send your current mailing address to gwangjuic@gmail.com

Gwangju Artist Collective We are a group of artists and art lovers. We meet up about once or twice a month at the GIC for workshops, discussions and community art events. Look for us on Facebook or send an e-mail to: gicartistcollective@googlegroups.com

Sung Bin Orphanage Sung Bin Orphanage is looking for creative/ active/ energetic/ outgoing/ enthusiastic long-term volunteers to join in our regular Saturday program. We would like you to give at least two Saturdays per month. As well as being a friend, you will be asked to teach basic English to girls aged 7 to 14. Meet every Saturday at 1.30 p.m. in front of downtown Starbucks. All are welcome. For more volunteering information please contact Al Barnum at: al_barnum@yahoo.com.

Gwangju Men’s Soccer The Gwangju international soccer team plays regularly most weekends. If you are interested in playing, e-mail: gwangju_soccer@yahoo.com.

Apostolate to Migrants Center Address: 802-4 Songjeong -2dong, Gwangsan-gu, Gwangju Phone: 062) 954-8004 Subway: Get off at Songjeong Park Station and walk toward Songjeong Middle School. Busses: 29, 38, 39, 62, 97, 98, 99 Get off at Yeonggwang-tong intersection bus stop and walk toward Songjeong Middle School. Masses: Every Sunday at 3 p.m. at the Migrant

[ GIC Talk ]

Center; 10 a.m.Indonesian Mass; 7 p.m. Vietnamese Mass; 11 a.m. Mass for multicultural families (2nd Sunday)

Gwangju Ice Hockey Team Looking for men and women of all ages to join us every Saturday night from 7:30 to 9 at Yeomju Ice Rink near World Cup Stadium. If you are interested, contact either Andrew Dunne at atdunne@gmail.com or Chris Wilson at kreeco@rogers.com

Gwangju Chaoreum Taekwondo Address: 1187-3 Chipyeong-dong Seo-gu, Gwangju Phone: (062) 384-0958 Location: Chaoreum Taekwondo Gym is located on the third floor of Jeong-yeon (K-1) building (just beside the bus stop) Buses : 62, 63, 64, 518 (bus stop: 상무대우아 파트 - Sangmu Daewoo Apateu) Taxi directions: "Sangmujigu Kumho Daewoo Apart ro gajuseyo". Method of instruction is in English Weekday Classes: 8:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.(from Monday to Friday) Sunday Classes: 1:00 p.m. - 2:00 p.m.

GIC Journal: Social Discourse of Disquiet http://gicjournal.wordpress.com/ This publication allows writers, artists and photographers to explore different forms of art in South Korea. Bridge the gap that gets lost in translation. Get involved! E-mail selina.gicjournal@gmail.com or join our Facebook Group. - GIC Journal: Social Discourse of Disquiet. Check out the "What's On" page for art events in Gwangju.

Donate your old cellphone The Korean Association of Electronic Equipment would like to introduce ‘Donate Your Cellphone’ campaign. By donating your old and unused phones you can help fight environmental problems both domestically and overseas, as well as helping refugees in third world countries. Please drop off your unwanted phones at the GIC office until December 31, 2010.

Peter Gallo Wedding Announcement Peter Gallo was a Gwangju News/ GIC volunteer a few years ago, and will return to Gwangju during December to hold a marriage ceremony with "Vivi" Soyeon Park. He will be married in Jangseong on Jan 2, 2011. All who are interested in attending please contact him ASAP for an invitation.

GIC Facebook Page Catch the latest news of GIC and its programs by joining our Facebook page at : www.facebook.com/gwangjuic or follow us online in Twitter with our user ID: gwangjuic

Gwangju Guidebook

THE ARTS NIGHT T.A.N is THE ARTS NIGHT; a new fortnightly

Get details on living and working in Gwangju www.gwangjuguide.or.kr

Time & Place: Every Saturday, 15:00-16:30, GIC office (5th floor of Jeon-il Bldg) For more information, visit www.gic.or.kr or contact Mun So-eun at: gwangjuic@gmail.com Check out pictures from previous GIC Talks http://picasaweb.google.com/gictalk Click for the highlight clips of GIC Talk at www.youtube.com/user/GICTALK

December 4 Title: Opening of the Art Exhibition “Since we're here... New work by Mesa Schumacher” Speaker: Mesa Schumacher (Science artist and illustrator) Mesa Schumacher will introduce her new artworks which include illustrations, paintings and photos. She was born in Seattle and now teaches English in Gwangju. She studied Anatomy and Science at Stanford University and works as a Science artist and illustrator. Mesa has worked for researchers from Stanford, Oxford, Harvard, Santa Cruz, and Buffalo University, and is an annual illustrator at Catalhoyuk project in Anatolia, Turkey.

December 11 Topic: Meet the Author of 'Once Around the Sun' Speaker: Melanie Steyn (Writer of the novella “Once Around the Sun”) Perhaps the first foreigner to write fiction with Koreans as the main characters, Melanie Steyn will be speaking about her novella, “Once Around the Sun”. The book has received favorable reviews and

event showcasing and sharing the cross-cultural arts of the foreign community with the arts of Gwangju and Korea. This includes film, literary readings, discussion programs and talks. We are situated at Junghung Park-Bil #309 (at the main entrance for Chonnam University turn right, walk 300 yards and we're on your right, behind the gas station/garage). Events are free/donations-based, and the first gathering is planned for Sunday, Dec.5 at 6 p.m. Call 010 9866 9130 or email andrewodonnell@riseup.net to register for attendance.

Gwangju News December 2010

features the Lee family in an imaginary fishing town in Jeollanam Do. Steyn, who teaches in the Department of English Education at Suncheon National University and has lived in Korea since 2002, creates the fictional Lee family and narrates a year in the life of four of its members.

December 18 End of Year Party 2010: GIC Members Day GIC Members Day will be an afternoon of thanks from the GIC for its members who have supported the Center over the last 12 months. Come on down to enjoy food, music and some good old conversation with friends.

December 25 There will be no talk due to Christmas holiday. unity. angju comm ven for the Gw t? Let us know. GIC Talk is gi ou ab talk om you’d like to gjuic@gmail.c Have a topic Write to gwan

Gwangju News December 2010

GIC was established by the Gwangju City Government and Gwangju Citizens Solidarity in 1999 as a model of government and NGO collaboration. Gwangju City provides financial assistance to help GIC to carry out its missions of - providing services to foreign residents and locals - facilitating civil exchange - promoting intercultural understanding

GIC has administered a number of programs in Gwangju and Jeollanam-do. Its activites of note include the following: - A Monthly Magazine Gwangju News - GIC Talk on Saturdays - Korean Language Classes - Gwangju International Community Day - GIC Library How to be a GIC member To register, please visit GIC office or drop us an email. A membership application form will then be sent by e-mail. For more information, please call 062-226-2731 or send an e-mail to Jihyun KIM at gic@gic.or.kr Kindly remit membership fee to: Kwangju Bank 134-107-000999 Account name: 광주국제교류센터 The GIC members are privileged to - receive Gwangju News every month and the GIC newsletter 4 times a year - participate in all events sponsored by the GIC and get a discount - be informed of GIC news and events - use GIC English book library

- GIC Concert - GIC Gallery - Additional Activities: Counseling services Information Service through phone and e-mail

How to Subscribe to Gwangju News To subscribe to Gwangju News, please call 062-226-2733 or send an e-mail to Minsu KIM at gwangjunews@gmail.com Please include the following information: Sender name, receiver name, shipping address (including zip code), e-mail address, telephone number and the starting month Subscription Rates (monthly issues for 1 year) Domestic: 20,000 won Asia: 30,000 w0n Australia and Europe: 40,000 won The Americas and Africa: 50,000 won Payment can be sent to our bank account using the information below. Kwangju Bank 134-107-000999 Account name: 광주국제교류센터

5th Floor, Jeon-il Bldg, Geumnam-no 1-ga, Dong-gu, Gwangju 501-758, Korea Phone: 062-226-2733~34 Fax: 062-226-2732 Website: www.gwangjuic.or.kr E-mail:gic@gic.or.kr Directions: The GIC office is located in the same building as the Korea Exchange Bank (KEB) in downtown Gwangju. The entrance is immediately north of the KEB on Geumnam-no street, across from the YMCA. Subway stop: Culture Complex 문화전당역 Bus no.: 9, 36, 45, 51, 52, 53, 56, 57, 58, 59, 61, 74, 80, 95, 150, 151, 518, 1000, 1187