Groomer to Groomer June 2021

“THE GROOMING INDUSTRY’S TRADE MAGAZINE!” VOL. 40 ED.6 • JUNE 2021

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CONTENTS | JUNE 2021 STRAIGHT FROM THE DOG’S MOUTH: ADDRESSING

CANINE

NUTRITION: 30

by Cliff Faver

Hosler: The Quitters 6

Connor: 10 Things Successful Groomers Know 52

Interviews with The Icons Jess Rona

Tutorial: The Modified Continental Clip

18

Fur Vs Hair 24 Classifieds/Groomer Humor

Berry: Where's the Profit? 34 New Products

Hansen: Obtaining a Smooth Comb Cut 38 Show Schedule/Industry Events David: Label Language: Pet Food Deciphered 44

58 64

What Groomers Should Know

65

( a nd w hy)

66

12

by Jenny Farrell ON THE COVER

“THE GROOMING INDUSTRY’S TRADE MAGAZINE!” VOL. 40 ED.6 • JUNE 2021

WWW. GROOMERTOGROOMER .COM

TUTORIAL

THE MODIFIED CONTINENTAL CLIP

TRADE SHOWS ARE BACK! SHOP, LEARN & CONNECT LIVE IN-PERSON

CANINE

NUTRITION WHAT GROOMERS SHOULD KNOW AND WHY

Copyright June 2021. Groomer to Groomer is published monthly by Barkleigh Productions, Inc, 970 West Trindle Road, Mechanicsburg PA 17055. Postmaster: Send change of address to Groomer to Groomer c/o Barkleigh Productions, Inc., 970 West Trindle Road, Mechanicsburg PA 17055. Annual U.S. subscription rate $25. Outside U.S. $79. year, surface rates. Groomer to Groomer is free to current Barkleigh Productions, Inc. customers. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission of the publisher.

Editorial offices: 970 West Trindle Road, Mechanicsburg PA 17055. (717) 691–3388 FAX: (717) 691–3381 Email: info@barkleigh.com

Shop, Learn and Connect In Person at a Grooming Trade Show! Page 66

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 6 • June 2021

5

GROOMING GAB

by Kathy Hosler

THE

If someone is labeled a “quitter,” it is generally seen as a negative depiction and often associated with giving up, not following through or lacking confidence or drive.

H

owever, if the action, habit or task that the individual is “quitting” is unhealthy or harmful to themselves or others, being a quitter might just be the right decision.

LORI "I have always gone the extra mile for my customers," says pet stylist Lori. "When my client Sandy confided in me that times had become hard for

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 6 • June 2021

her and she had to go to food giveaways just to keep her family fed, I felt the need to help her. She asked me if I could stretch out the appointments for her two sweet Bichons from every four weeks to eight weeks.

"Of course I said yes. It meant a lot more work and significantly less income for me, but I wanted to help Sandy any way I could. So, for the better part of a year I groomed her Bichons every eight weeks.

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"Last week Sandy called me and said, 'Lori, I need a favor. My pups are scheduled to be groomed next Friday.

Can you switch them to Wednesday? I am leaving for Aruba on Friday.’

"What? Was she serious? For almost a year I believed I was helping a client who was going through a really rough period, and now she is going to Aruba. That's it... I quit!" Lori shrieked. "This is the last time I will fall for someone's phony sob story and let

"I soon realized that although my clients expected me to give them special treatment, they didn't respect me as a professional. That's when I knew I had to quit," Darla said. them take advantage of me."

With Lori quitting allowing her customers to take advantage of her kind demeanor, she no longer has to question if she is doing the right thing—and her business doesn’t have to suffer the consequences.

New groomer Darla experienced problems of a different kind with her customers.

"When I first opened my busi-

ness," recalls Darla, "I was determined to please every customer that came through my doors. So, when clients arrived late for their appointment, did not pick up their pet in a timely manner, or missed appointments entirely, I didn't say much. As a novice groomer, I didn't know how to handle it without making the customers mad.

"Then I encountered clients with matted pets. When I would tell them that their pet would have to be clipped short—and they agreed to it—some of

Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 6 • June 2021

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DARLA

8

them wanted me to refund the entire cost of the groom because they didn't like how their pet looked when it was clipped short.

"I soon realized that although my clients expected me to give them special treatment, they didn't respect me as a professional. That's when I knew I had to quit," Darla said. "I was a people pleaser, and I allowed too many people to treat me badly.

"I've made some big, big changes since I became a quitter," says

“When it comes to matted pets, I now have the client sign a matted pet release which gives me proof that the owner consents to the hair removal and understands that unseen problems may be uncovered,” Darla explains.

Darla triumphantly, "and I couldn't be happier. I set boundaries and limits with my clients. I found that clear communication helps avoid misunderstandings. When I put everything in writing, no one could claim that I didn't inform them.

"In addition to posting my hours and policies prominently in my salon, I also have them printed in our monthly newsletter and on every client receipt.

And when it comes to matted pets, I now have the client sign a matted pet

release which gives me proof that the owner consents to the hair removal and understands that unseen problems may be uncovered during the process," Darla explains.

Becoming a quitter gave Darla great peace of mind and put her business on the road to success.

RON Salon owner Ron has become his own worst enemy. He had been employed as a groomer at a popular local

salon, and when the owner wanted to retire, Ron bought the business.

"I'm a very good groomer," says Ron. "But I didn't have any experience at running a business. I thought that if I just kept doing everything the previous owner did that the salon would continue to be successful, but business really fell off."

Ron began to realize that his “status quo” strategy was not working. Because he had been reluctant to try new tools, products and techniques, Ron was

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sabotaging himself—and his business was starting to stagnate and die.

Ron became a quitter. He made a list of all the things that were not working for him, and then he quit doing them. Ron started networking with other groomers, attending grooming shows and taking online seminars. He updated his salon and invested in new equipment.

Things have turned around in a big way since Ron became a quitter, and he now owns two very successful salons.

SHARON

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Veteran stylist Sharon has owned and operated a successful mobile business for years. Her clients adore her and she is booked months in advance. Everyone wants their pet to be “Groomed by Sharon.”

It seems like Sharon has it all together and is doing everything right, doesn't it? Why would she need to quit doing anything?

As successful as she is, Sharon has a serious issue. Sharon needs to quit putting herself last.

"I have such a full schedule, I never have any time for myself," says Sharon.

"And, as much as I love what I do, I know I won't be able to groom forever. I absolutely have to start planning ahead and putting money away for my retirement.

It's pretty evident that I need to become a quitter.

"Starting today, I will quit putting myself last," Sharon says emphatically. "I am going to make myself and my future a priority. I have worked extremely hard to build my wonderful career. Now, I am going to quit working so much and start doing more of the things that will bring me pleasure.

My new goal is to become the best and most successful quitter around!"

When these four groomers decided to become quitters and to stop doing things that weren't working for them, their lives and careers improved dramatically. Is it time for you to become a quitter, too? &

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CANINE

NUTRITION:

What Groomers Should Know (and why) E by Jenny Farrell e 12

Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 6 • June 2021

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G

roomers come in contact with dogs every day who may have sensitive stomachs, special diets and allergies. It is important that groomers know and understand diet and health in canines (or any animal that they are in contact with).

In many salons, treats are given as a reward, but they may not be suitable for all dogs. For some, anything outside of their special diet can trigger stomach upsets, skin rashes, skin sores and tear staining.

Canines are originally scavengers, and, unlike cats, they do not need meat protein in their diets to survive; however, they are carnivores. A canine diet should consist of protein, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals and of course water.

What you use to provide these necessary elements could be through homemade dog food, commercially–prepared food or locally–prepared food. It is important to look at what a dog is eating. Is their food pure, organic and full of natural goodness?

Or is it made up of artificial flavors, fillers and colorings?

Many behavior problems root from poor diets that contain artificial ingredients because, like humans, too much artificial coloring and sugar makes them hyperactive.

Our canine friends are also similar in that they need a balanced, healthy diet with minimal excessive additives to maintain a healthy mental state, maintain energy and optimal health.

A lot of pets are now clinically over weight and this is largely due to a high fat and sugar (through high carbohydrates) diet. Certain treats of similar quality can also contribute to this problem. Fat is important for providing essential

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A lot of commercial dog foods contain corn, wheat or soy (carbohydrates) as their main ingredients because it is cheap, bulks the weight out and expands, making it cheap for manufacturers.

GROOMING INSTRUCTOR Teach the next generation of groomers while shaping our profession Mud Bay is searching for an educator in the grooming industry who wants to help us fulfill our mission of combining lifestyle-specific grooming with a focus on skin and coat health while mentoring others to do the same. Our ideal grooming instructor wants to improve the grooming industry and believes they can teach anyone with the right attitude how to be an effective groomer. They have at least seven years of experience in the grooming industry and know how to successfully teach people how to become valuable team members. They know, or are excited to learn, how the right nutrition and dog behavioral techniques can make a difference in the lives of the dogs they groom. Plus, they’re excited to create the procedures necessary to help our locations thrive.

In return, Mud Bay is pioneering a new way of grooming that promotes a team mentality where everyone helps give each dog the best possible experience at the Mud Room. We offer a fair hourly wage with earned tips, regular breaks, and high-quality tools provided for all groomers. Full-time employees are also eligible for full benefits including health insurance, PTO, ESOP participation, and a generous discount on any pet supplies or food Mud Bay sells.

Due to the unique set of skills the right candidate will have, Mud Bay is prepared to pay a competitive salary for the right person. So if you’re willing to work in Thurston County, Washington, at our two existing locations in Olympia and Lacey while helping shape the Mud Rooms of the future in Seattle, Portland and across the PNW, apply today with your resume and cover letter at mudbay.com/groominginstructor.

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fatty acids for healthy cell function, but it also makes things tasty and is given in excessive amounts in tasty treats and tasty commercial diets—especially rich wet food and colorful kibble which is made to be more palatable for your pets.

The key ingredient in a canine’s diet should be a digestible protein such as meat. Dogs mainly get their energy from fat and protein so they do not technically require a lot of carbohydrates. A lot of commercial dog foods contain corn, wheat or soy (carbohydrates) as their main ingredients because it is cheap, bulks the weight out and expands, making it cheap for manufacturers. This is an issue, as these ingredients can cause all kinds of problems and allergies.

Protein not only affects muscle mass, overall growth and body condition, it also affects coat condition. Flaky, dry skin can be caused by lack of protein and also vitamins such as the amino acids which make up protein. Some essential amino acids cannot be made by the body and need to be provided in the diet. If the diet lacks in one of these essential amino acids, the body cannot manufacture protein sufficiently.

This is important at all ages but especially in growing dogs.

As a groomer, you could advise your clients to talk to their vet about a diet change if their pets have sore, irritable skin and other causes have been ruled out.

But remember, we cannot recommend a diet change ourselves as we are not qualified to do so. So always suggest bringing diet up with a vet. For clients with flaky skin, dry skin and dull coat, you

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Try to source natural, organic treats that are low in fat, low in calories and contain only a single or few ingredients.

could suggest a vitamin supplement for coat care such as a canine–formulated fish oil.

Always be aware of giving dogs treats in the salon as some dogs really do react to something in their diets that shouldn’t be there. If you are a groomer who uses treats in the salon, it is important to think about this as most treats contain artificial ingredients that should be avoided. In addition to behavior, certain additives can cause stomach upsets, diarrhea, excessive anal gland fluid and tear staining as the body tries to get rid of the toxins, which, in this case, are the artificial flavorings and colorings.

If you want to use treats in your salon, you should ask the clients before the groom and note on their record card if you can or cannot give treats. Try to source natural, organic treats that are low in fat, low in calories and contain only a single or few ingredients.

Lastly, dogs, like humans, need to consume enough water. A general rule is one ounce of water per pound of weight; however, this can change with health and age. When grooming, dogs can get stressed and anxious and they may need more water during and after a groom. So it’s always important that you have easy–accessible, fresh water available to all dogs at all times in your salon. &

Do you want YOUR salon featured in Groomer to Groomer magazine?

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Email Rebecca@barkleigh.com

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 6 • June 2021

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INTERVIEWS WITH THE ICONS

by Jonathan David

Jess Rona Jess Rona is a grooming force. She

caters to the “who’s who” of Los Angeles, grooming the pets of superstars like Katy Perry—and her Instagram account has a whopping 196k followers!

S

he’s the creator and star of the hit grooming competition show on HBOMAX, Haute Dog, a fun and quirky grooming show reminiscent of a 70’s–style game show.

And, she’s also the owner of a fabulous new grooming salon. I got to catch up

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with Jess and ask her some questions about her success.

Jonathan: Hey Jess, thanks for taking time from your busy schedule to chat with me, let’s get right to it!

Your Instagram following is huge and

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your viral videos of fabulous canines with their hair blowing in the wind are a huge part of that, what inspired you to make those slo–mo videos? And did you ever think they would become such a huge sensation?

Jess: No! I never could have imagined that they would catch on the way they did. I was actually in a low moment in my career. I was grooming dogs alone in my garage and I really was craving a creative outlet. When the iPhone 6 came out, it was the first time there was ever a slo–mo video feature on a phone. One day I was blow–drying a dog when I was listening to music, and as the song crescendoed, the ears flew up in the air and it was this epic moment. So, I grabbed my phone and took a video. My friend told me about this app that puts songs to videos, so I started making little Beyoncé–style music videos just to bring myself some joy. It made me so happy.

I didn’t really think much about them. I would send them to the dogs’ owners as a fun little extra thing, and once I saw their reactions, I realized maybe this is something special.

Jonathan: You groom Katy Perry’s dog among other high–profile peeps, what’s it like having celebrity clients?

Are they higher maintenance or are they just like anyone else when it comes to their precious pets?

Jess: They definitely have high standards, but so do I, so it works out perfectly. I grew up in L.A., so I learned a long time ago that celebrities are really just normal people. Super famous people roll into my salon with no makeup on, or their hair is in a bun, and they’re just totally normal. I do make sure service is impeccable with VIP clients. If Katy ever needs Nugget groomed, I accommodate her no matter what. Any time of day or night, I’m always there for her. I love her so much and I love her dog.

Jonathan: Congrats on the success

Congrats on the success of your hit grooming competition show Haute Dog on HBOMax!

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of your hit grooming competition show Haute Dog on HBOMax! How did you come up with the idea and how did you make it a reality?

Jess: Thank you! We had been working on Haute Dog for three years before it sold to HBOMax. I actually didn’t think it was going to happen for a long time. But that’s what developing a show can be like. It’s crickets for a year, and then boom, you’re casting and shooting a show in a matter of months. (Although I don’t actually cast the show, I do send recommendations to the casting directors, but they have the final say.)

I have a genius client who came over one day and she was like, “We’re making a show.” And I hear that a lot living in L.A., but she was someone I trusted and knew. So we started brainstorming on what the show would be and slowly it was developed. We knew we definitely wanted to create something that was lighthearted and fun; nothing cut–throat or too competitive.

And we obviously wanted something with wood paneling and a kooky, funny retro style. We wanted one of those long, skinny microphones, but we ended up not doing it. But that was the vibe. I put together set design ideas into a Pinterest board, and the set designer magicians brought it all to life.

Old 60s– and 70s–style game shows were my biggest inspiration.

Once the idea and the style were developed, my client took it out and pitched it and called me one day and said “Hey, HBOMax bought our pilot.”

And I started crying. Then, about a month later, before we even shot the pilot, I got another call and she said, “ummm HBOMax just ordered 12 episodes. The show is going straight to series. Congratulations, you have a TV show.” I lost it.

Not sure if you know this, but I have always wanted to be an actress (way before dog grooming), so this is a huge dream come true. It’s been magi-

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cal. My two worlds are colliding.

Jonathan: You were featured for your viral videos on the Drew Barrymore Show and she had you on as a guest, how was that experience and how was it chatting with Drew?

Jess: I love her sooooo much.

She’s so sweet and cool. It was just like talking to a friend. She’s so warm and welcoming. We set up my computer in my salon and they wanted me to groom a dog throughout the episode which was super fun. I didn’t realize this at the time, but my phone was connected to my computer and my husband called in the middle of the interview and the screen totally went away and I had a moment of freak out.

I figured out how to get it back, but it was one of those insane moments that you look back and laugh at.

Jonathan: You recently opened a brand new salon in Los Angeles, what’s

one piece of advice you’d give to any groomer about to start a new business?

Jess: Oh, this is a really good question….It’s going to be really hard, it’s also going to be really rewarding.

Plan as much as you can to spend more money than you think you will. Go for it, do it the right way, have a vision, know your numbers, learn about business, never stop learning in general, be patient with building clientele (it takes a while) and ride the wave.

Jonathan: What’s next for Jess Rona?

Jess: I’m so glad you asked. I have a new passion. There’s a big hole in the grooming industry. Something no one is teaching but it is so unbelievably important. So much of grooming is energy. No one teaches about how dogs are energy readers! It’s only tuck– ups and top knots! Energy comes from within, and no one in our industry

GBfather-2021-June-GroomersBest.pdf 1 5/3/2021 2:51:57 PM

Happy

Father’s Day

teaches mindset work. I also notice that groomers get frustrated easily or think grooming is hard. So, throughout my 20+ years as a groomer, I’ve developed easy techniques that can help any groomer be consistent and super happy with their work. I’ve also developed energy practices that keep me and my dogs calm. So the next adventure for me is online courses!

I just launched my first digital course called “The Many Faces of JRG,” which was a huge success. I have so much more I want to teach. Next up: a puppy course, a business course and a full–on grooming blueprint course.

All will have elements of self–care and energy work as well. And maybe you can come do a course with me next time you’re in L.A.?! I’m fired up!

Jonathan: Fantastic, I’ll take you up on that! Thanks again for chatting, and good luck on your continued success! &

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THE GROOMERS GUIDE

by Jennifer Bishop-Jenkins

vs D

ogs are one of the most physically diverse species on the planet. The differences between a Chihuahua and a Saint Bernard, for example, seem obvious and significant. Yet, genetically they are almost identical with only three or so different genes between them out of tens of thousands.

Geneticists call this unique aspect of canine genetics a “big effect” when one or two single genes change something on a much larger scale.

Such big effects are a relative rare occurrence—I am told by professional geneticists—and always inspire further investigation.

We humans look much more similar to each other as a species than

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dogs do, and yet we have many more differences at the genetic level—even between close family members. Almost certainly, this explains how humans have been able to so dramatically and quickly alter the appearance of the dog to suit our purposes.

THE DIFFERENCE IN DOGS Dogs are very different from each other in appearance—especially in coat. Here is a good way to clearly observe the differences in dog coat types: Watch the finals in any AKC Dog Show, either in person or on television.

All the recognized breeds compete in their seven groups: Sporting, Hound, Working, Terrier, Toy, Non–Sporting and Herding—competing for Best in GroomertoGroomer.com

Group. The seven group winners go on to compete for Best in Show. At a dog show, we grooming professionals can best see juxtaposed and on clear display each coat type correctly groomed for its function and its breed standard; the way it is supposed to look.

I believe that every professional groomer should attend a dog show at least once in their career. These diverse coat types, correctly groomed, are spectacular and inspiring! Seeing such beautiful and widely–varied coat types helps us to learn how that coat type served an important function for these dogs throughout our shared histories as co–evolved species.

Given this beautiful and fitting diversity in coat types in dogs, it is

It is sometimes hard to understand why so many of us end up treating every coat type exactly the same—using all the same products, doing all the same shave–downs—no matter the unique history, needs or features of the dog’s coat on the table before us. sometimes hard to understand why so many of us end up treating every coat type exactly the same—using all the same products, doing all the same shave–downs—no matter the unique history, needs or features of the dog’s coat on the table before us.

The terms “fur” and “hair” are clear and simple and can be used to distinguish the canine coat into two broad genetic categories: undetermined length (UDL) and pre–determined length (PDL). Once you explain these terms to your grooming clients,

conversations about coat care become much easier.

I credit a fellow Chicago–area Certified Master Groomer, the great Billy Rafferty, for popularizing these terms. Billy owns the successful salon Doggy Dooz in Chicago but made his fame as “Oprah’s Groomer” on national television. In 2009 he published the acclaimed book Happy Dog for the dog– owning public. In his book, Rafferty suggests this helpful basic distinction about these two genetic categories of coat type as “fur types” and “hair

types” to help their owners understand their unique needs.

The terms fur and hair are becoming more commonly used, as a simple internet search will reveal.

Although some will define it as single versus double coat, which is causing some confusion. Any time we use such terminology we should be aware that this is more of a popular usage than a scientific description.

All pelage, or the hair, fur or wool that covers any mammal, is made purely of keratin. The only differences

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Fur–type coats in dogs are generally shorter, thicker and carry more dander than hair–type coats. They often come in two or three layers.

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are in their genetic programming for texture, color, length and growing patterns. So, actually, hair and fur are just nicknames.

Regardless, I propose we go with these helpful terms. The more we groomers can standardize our professional terminology and create a jargon within our own ranks that we all universally speak and understand, the more like other highly–respected professionals such as doctors and lawyers we become. We will also be better able to communicate to our clients and each other.

While I have identified the fifteen coat types requiring different grooming strategies, we must first ask the broader question, “Is it fur or is it hair?” Once we know if a dog is a fur– type or hair–type, then other grooming decisions become much easier.

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FUR Fur is what the definitive veterinary skin and coat text, Muller & Kirk’s Small Animal Dermatology, calls the “natural” or “normal” coat of dogs. It is genetically PDL, with a pre–set and pre–determined length.

The bulk of coat over the dogs’ body grows to a certain length and stops.

It sheds out its massive amounts of fast–growing undercoat seasonally.

The major shedding seasons take place twice a year, in the months leading up to the summer and winter solstices, but they continuously shed throughout the year.

Fur–type coats in dogs are generally shorter, thicker and carry more dander than hair–type coats. They often come in two or three layers.

Fur relies on the outer guard hairs which are the structure of the coat.

These primary guard hairs make up the protective topcoat and support the more numerous but less substantive secondary insulating undercoat hairs. The primary guard hairs must be longer and sit well above the undercoat for nature’s ingenious shedding system to work.

This is why we should never clipper or shave these fur–type coats.

Clippers do not distinguish between guard hairs or topcoat and undercoat—they just take it all off. Undercoat grows in and falls out much faster and will come back in a rage, thicker and more gnarled than ever, if the guard hairs or topcoat is also removed. These guard hairs, with long dormant periods in their growth, take many months or even years to come back—if they come back at all.

Often if double–coated breeds are shaved, the primary hairs will stay dormant permanently, creating a lifelong disaster for the poor dog.

Dogs need these natural coats to protect their thin skin; the largest and most important organ in their bodies.

Our job as groomers is to make sure we protect the critically important, slow– growing topcoat while assisting in de– shedding the undercoat. A good bath and condition, high velocity dryers, brushes and combs are all we need to help the fur–type dogs remove excess undercoat while protecting their needed topcoat.

Hair–type coats have a much slower growing cycle with much less shedding. These hairs are generally smoother, finer, longer and have fewer follicles per square inch.

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HAIR Hair–type coats have a much slower growing cycle with much less shedding. These hairs are generally smoother, finer, longer and have fewer follicles per square inch. The primary and secondary hairs are often closer in length to each other, making deep combing before cutting even more important. These hair– type coats produce much less dander.

The misnomer “hypoallergenic” is of-

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The misnomer “hypoallergenic” is often wrongly applied by opportunistic breeders to these types of coat.

ten wrongly applied by opportunistic breeders to these types of coat.

The hairs are uniquely distinguished by shape; both individual hairs and the shape of the follicle itself. When the hair is perfectly round and the follicles straighter, the hair hangs long and loose, such as with a Shih Tzu or a Yorkie. When the hair is oval or elliptically–shaped, and the follicle bent, it comes out wavy, such as with a Portuguese Water Dog. And when the hair is flattened on one side and the follicle twisted, the hair comes out curly, like a Poodle.

The hair–type coats shed less but they mat and tangle more. Our job as groomers with hair–type dogs is to clean and condition these coats, de– mat or de–tangle them, and trim the hair to an appropriate length, preferably at least one inch long.

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THEY NEED US Given the thin skin but thicker hair of all dogs, we know they rely entirely on their natural coats—whether they are fur or hair—to protect them from everything in the environment that can hurt them. Groomers well–trained in skin and coat are estheticians who nurture and care for the critical skin and coat of this wonderful canine species.

Whether to properly de–shed undercoat of the fur–type dogs while preserving their topcoat or de–mat and trim hair–type dogs, they all need our grooming expertise! &

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DEVRM CONNECTION

by Dr. Cliff Faver

STRAIGHT FROM THE DOG’S MOUTH: ADDRESSING

“We are what we eat” is an old saying that has many meanings, from nutrition to the secondary effects of food on our bodies.

O

ne of the first places we see the effects of food in our pets is on the teeth and gums.

In past years, we did not put much emphasis on oral care, but we have now found that good dental health plays a vital role in the health, wellbeing and longevity of our pets.

Chronic shedding of bacteria from an infected mouth not only affects the pet in the short–term, but it often causes damage to the organs, thus affecting long–term health as well.

The mouth is made up of bacteria and saliva (which contains enzymes) that, when mixed with food, start the digestion process with both a mechanical aspect as well as a chemical or enzymatic action. This same combination is the precursor to the tartar

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and debris that build up on the teeth.

Tooth enamel is naturally smooth, but as this combination of bacteria, saliva and food dries on the tooth, it roughens the surface and the deterioration of the healthy tooth begins. As the tooth becomes more roughened, the calcium and other mineral products are deposited, producing what is referred to as “tartar” on the tooth.

If you look at the bite of most dogs and cats, they have what is called a “scissor bite,” meaning that the upper arcade will clean the lower arcade.

Since the tongue does a sufficient job of cleaning the insides of the teeth, the most vulnerable is the outside of the upper arcade. Dogs and cats cannot clean this area with their tongues, so even in the worst mouths, this is

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where the vast majority of the tartar and debris are trapped. Once the tartar starts to form, the tooth is behind a power curve and will often require a dental prophylaxis (cleaning) to restore the tooth back to a healthy state.

A dental prophylaxis, or prophy, consists of several steps. First, any large pieces of tartar need to be extracted off the teeth. The second step is to either use a hand scaler or an ultrasonic cleaner (instrument that vibrates to loosen the tartar) to remove the remaining debris. This instrument must be kept in constant movement or it will overheat the tooth causing heat damage. The concern of heat is also the reason to first remove the bulk of the tartar, otherwise too much time on a tooth could damage it. The third step

(and an especially important one) is to polish the tooth with an abrasive to remove scratches and any roughening on the tooth. If this step is skipped or not done correctly, it will often leave the tooth rough or etched which promotes the rapid buildup of tartar. Next, a Fluoride treatment should be applied to strengthen the tooth and to fill in the micro–etching in the tooth. Sealants are now commonly used after the fluoride to further protect the tooth and to prolong the time between prophys.

Most dogs and cats will need their first cleaning somewhere between two and four years of age. Certain breeds as well as any dogs that do not naturally play with toys or eat hard kibble tend to build up tartar much faster. This is due to the lack of cleaning effect from the toys and the fact that soft food often gets lodged in that area of the upper arcade and the lip.

The best method of cleaning the teeth requires full anesthesia so that the debris underneath the gum line can be cleaned properly. This can be uncomfortable and even painful, so pets do not tolerate it well while they are awake. A new trend is to do anesthesia–free dentals which has mixed reviews because it is difficult to do the sub gingival (below gingiva) cleaning.

Each state is different, but most consider cleaning the teeth a medical procedure that needs to be done under the direct supervision (meaning physically there) of a veterinarian. Whether you are going to do it yourself or hire someone else to do it in your salon, read up on the laws of your state so that you do not risk legal ramifications.

When cleaning the teeth, the most important area to be concerned about is under the gum (gingiva) line. This is the location that we see the most cavities (especially in cats) and infections. If not resolved, these gum infections can progress to bone infections. If the bone

Each state is different, but most consider cleaning the teeth a medical procedure that needs to be done under the direct supervision (meaning physically there) of a veterinarian.

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becomes infected, there are multiple possible consequences. When bacteria are shed into the system, the body must deal with it. One of the most common effects seen is chronic urinary tract infections. Secondary conditions such as heart valve lesions, heart issues and kidney issues can also commonly occur.

Another consequence of an infection in the gums and gum line (gingivitis) is infection of the bone associated with teeth. Left unchecked, the bone will eventually be broken down around the tooth. This will cause the tooth to become loose and eventually fall out.

When it comes to the health of pets, prevention is the key to totally inhibit or delay the onset of any disease. Brushing the teeth daily (concentrating on affected area) is the best method of prevention. The keyword is daily—any less than that will allow

roughening of the tooth surface and the process will be initiated.

Many treat companies have spent much of their marketing budget trying to convince pet owners that their dry treats and food will clean teeth.

This may have a bit of truth to it, but really only the very tip of the tooth is cleaned, because after the dog bites down, the kibble crumbles. The majority of the pathology is at the gum line.

There are various enzymes on the market designed to add to drinking water to dissolve the calcified tartar. My concern has always been, if it dissolves tartar, does it etch the tooth or remove the calcium from the tooth itself? I personally have not seen consistent results with the products that I have tried.

Chew toys, hard treats and dry food are all great methods to remove the debris at an early stage. Just be

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1

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aware that not every suggestion will work or is safe for all pets. Be proactive and find the most successful solution for the health and wellbeing of each individual dog, and advise your clients to do the same. & Dr. Cliff Faver graduated with a BS in Biology/BA in Chemistry before getting a Veterinary degree in 1987. He is the past owner of Animal Health Services in Cave Creek, Arizona and now the US distributor for Iv San Bernard products, teaches the ISB Pet Aesthetician Certification program, and speaks internationally on hair and skin. His passion is to merge groomers and veterinarians to aid in helping and healing pets. He is also a member of AVMA, AAHA, AZVMA, Board member with Burbank Kennel Club, and has served on Novartis Lead Committee, Hill’s International Global Veterinary Board, and a Veterinary Management Group.

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GROOMING BUSINESS BASICS

by Khris Berry

Why do you groom pets? Ask ten groomers and you will find some similar answers; for the love of the pet, for the artistry, for the independence of the workflow or to control your own schedule, just to name a few.

B

ut rarely in the top-three list of “whys” is the actual reason that most of the world’s workforce shows up day after day… the paycheck.

Money is not a bad word, and neither is profit. Even if you are a pet groomer, you are entitled to earn enough money to enjoy a living wage (or better), make a decent living, pay your bills and even afford yourself some luxuries in life.

WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO MAKE A PROFIT? The answer to that question lies in the role you fill in the chain of the

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service. If you are a salon owner, a salon manager, a groomer or an assistant, your answer may vary as well as your opinion of “profit,” depending on the function or service you provide and what percentage of each pet’s groom is used to pay for your portion of the service.

If that answer left you confused, read that sentence again and let’s break it down.

One way to look at profit (and your portion of it) is to break down the pet’s overall pricing/service.

Depending on the role you play in the pet’s service, you may look at profit from a different point of view, so let’s define profit for the different GroomertoGroomer.com

roles within a grooming business.

SALON OWNERS Salon Owners are in a unique position. They are employers and have larger scopes of responsibility than any other stakeholder in the grooming salon. They deserve a profit as well.

A salon owner carries more responsibility for the overall accommodation of the service than any other role.

Salon owners carry financial and legal liability; if something goes wrong, they are on the hot seat for all financial and legal issues that may arise.

Salon owners are ultimately responsible for logistics, operations,

The salon manager is often managing staff, directing work flow, and handling logistics such as supplies and inventory.

They should be compensated—either directly or indirectly—for the additional responsibility they assume. staffing and the all-important safety of all persons and pets in their facility.

They may be working in the salon as a service provider, but the responsibilities they carry are additional, thus so should their portion of the pet’s grooming profit.

SALON MANAGERS Salon Managers are basically installed to assist salon owners with duties that they cannot or prefer not to attend to themselves. The salon

manager is often managing staff, directing work flow, and handling logistics such as supplies and inventory.

All of this is often accomplished on top of their already busy schedule or doing the work of a groomer. They should be compensated—either directly or indirectly—for the additional responsibility they assume.

That compensation should be equivalent to the additional work load they are asked to perform. For example: If a salon manager is NOT grooming,

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they should be compensated fairly for the tasks they perform. If they ARE grooming in addition to handling their managerial tasks, they could expect to receive additional compensation for the amount of time they directly devote to tasks not associated with grooming.

GROOMERS Groomers are often at the central part of the grooming profit debate.

The service they provide is necessary and central to the entire process;

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Whether you are a seasoned salon owner or a greenhorn grooming assistant, you deserve to earn a living wage that

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however, without a facility, supplies, utilities, support in the way of software, scheduling tools or, in some cases, additional staff to provide care for the pets, the grooming service is incapable of being performed. This is the chicken/egg debate. Groomers need salons (or at least a place to work) and salons need groomers to provide the service.

Understanding that all of the things around a groomer (including the intangibles such as cash flow, insurance and legal protection) also come at a cost, groomers are learning to thrive under new, more balanced pay structures. Older business models of high commission are giving way to new, sustainable business models that allow for better products, better facilities, and better care in general for the pets and clients.

Why? Because if groomers take all of the profits from a groom, there simply isn’t enough left over to sustain a business long-term, replace outdated fixtures, invest in continuing education, or even provide basic necessities such as paid time off or personal insurance options.

GROOMING ASSISTANTS Grooming Assistants are a luxury for some groomers and a necessity for others. Regardless, their wages are GroomertoGroomer.com

derived from the same pool of money that salon owners, managers and groomers also share. Someone has to pay for them—and ultimately—it’s the client who is paying for everything.

Defining a business model that allows for assistants/bathers is a delicate balance. Many groomers are aware they can make more money in a given day if they have assistance with managing the basic needs (perhaps bathing and drying); however, understand that assistant wages must also be justified in the price structure of the groom.

Whether you are a seasoned salon owner or a greenhorn grooming assistant, you deserve to earn a living wage that will sustain you in the career you have chosen. Finding the right balance in understanding the margins of a grooming business is not an easy chore, but it can be done. Know your numbers and then you can begin to manipulate them to take care of everyone.

Pet grooming as a career can offer great wages, as well as the other benefits listed above. Don’t be bashful about declaring your status as a professional and connect your ability to provide a professional service to earning a decent profit. You are a critical link in the care chain of the pet—make sure you take care of you. &

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KITTY'S KORNER

by Deborah Hansen

W

OBTAINING A

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hen an owner advises that they only want a little taken off their cat’s coat, it can mean anything from a bath to a comb cut to a lion cut. What most owners do not know and really struggle to understand is that a clean coat with the dead coat removed will make their cat appear just a little shorter than they probably expected.

Giving the cat a good bath where you can loosen the dead coat and remove any binding agents from the living coat will allow the majority of the dead coat to slip off during rinsing and drying. Any of the remaining dead coat will be combed out during drying and in the finishing stages of the groom. A good bath and dry is not only easier on a cat than a long brush–out session, but is also easier on the groomer’s body.

While you can attempt to explain how dead coat makes the overall coat appear longer and that a good bath will shorten the coat, most owners are not open to hearing this. The majority of the time the owners are so excited to see their cat looking “fluffy” again, they forget they wanted coat taken off. I then make a note in their file so I know next time that they are happy with just a bath and dead coat being removed. At the next visit, when they request that a little coat be taken off, I respond with, “I will do what I did last time and we can go from there.”

While a bath pleases many client requests for a shorter coat, there are some clients that actually want something shorter than the appearance a bath gives, but longer than a lion cut. These clients truly want a comb cut. Many times these clients have busy lives and they do not have the time to brush their long–haired cats.

Over the years, I have had several clients that did not like the pattern on their cat. These clients wanted to shorten the coat so the tips would not

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A comb cut utilizes the same pattern and techniques as a lion cut but with a few additions to get a smooth finish without lumps or ruts in the coat.

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show. This is common for owners of silver shaded cats who want a white– colored cat. Another group of owners who want comb cuts are those owners of older cats that loved regular lion cuts, but as these cats have aged, their skin has become too thin and baggy to safely shave.

Before attempting a comb cut, I would advise that you are comfortable with and have mastered your lion cut.

A comb cut utilizes the same pattern and techniques as a lion cut but with a few additions to get a smooth finish without lumps or ruts in the coat.

Once you understand these extra steps, it will take much practice to perfect your technique.

When I started offering comb cuts in my business, I only offered them to my best clients. I charged the client a bath price and always offered to turn the comb cut into a lion cut for free if the owners did not like the cut. This strategy gave me time to tweak my equipment and technique so I could launch comb cuts as a new service for my business at a later date.

The first important thing to know about comb cuts is that they cannot be done if the cat has any mats. If a cat has more than one or two mats, my policy is to provide a lion cut at this visit, then moving forward we can maintain the cat in a comb cut. It is also important to know if the owner tried to cut out any mats. This means you will most likely have a lumpy finish.

A successful comb cut needs the correct base before you begin. Think of comb cuts as an art that requires a freshly–bathed and completely dry canvas to work on. If the coat is not clean, it will stick together leaving ruts in the final product. If the cat’s coat is not completely dry, it will clump together leaving lumps in the coat.

The correct tools make all the difference when striving for a good– quality comb cut. A suction system and sharp blades really are a must for

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feline comb cuts. When the coat is lifted up then cut, the final product is elevated. I understand many of the options for a suction system are costly and heavy. As a house–call groomer, I run my system off a small shop vac from a big box store with the hose and attachments from one of the suction system companies. Beginning with this setup will allow you to test the system and refine your technique at a lower price point.

Once you have a mat–free, clean, dry foundation, plus the correct tools, it is time to work on technique.

It is important for you to remember to always hold the skin tight and work in reverse. Cats with loose, baggy skin (not just senior cats) can get their skin sucked into the clippers.

Many times groomers have a false sense of security because the comb raises the blade off the skin and they forget the importance of working with tight skin.

I do my comb cuts just like I do my lion cuts; holding the skin tight and shaving in reverse with the same pattern and lines I use for a lion cut.

When the skin is not tight, not only does the likelihood of cutting the cat increase, but you will get ruts in your final product.

Another important and often overlooked factor in obtaining a high–quality comb cut is a sharp blade. When the coat is mat–free, clean and dry, and you are holding the skin tight and using suction, yet you are still getting tracking or the coat isn’t being cut the way you expect, first check your battery (if using cordless clippers), then change to a new blade. A new blade can make a huge difference in the quality of your comb cut.

Comb cuts are difficult to master.

But, once mastered, they can bring in a larger profit margin than lion cuts. Remember to practice the basics and your comb cuts will be smooth and rut–free in no time! &

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ve been on more than one “health kick” in my life. I’ve tried fad diets, I’ve tried living non–dairy and low carb, and I even did the keto diet for a year. In each endeavor I would learn the ins and outs of my new and improved way of eating and I would do a lot of reading. During all my failed efforts to be healthier (I’m a bacon and carb junkie by the way), one thing I did learn and never forgot is that food labels are deceptive. There are legal ways to word things to imply that something is one way when in fact it’s another.

Pet food labels are no different.

On the labels and in the description there are clues as to what your pet food actually contains, and it’s all in the wording.

BUT WHY IS IT NOT WHAT IT MAY SEEM? To answer this question, we need to go over some common misconceptions and what the words on pet food

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by Jonathan David

In a perfect world, we’d be able to read the packaging and know that if it says the food is “beef,” then that is what the food is made of… but that’s not necessarily the case. labels really mean. In a perfect world, we’d be able to read the packaging and know that if it says the food is “beef,” then that is what the food is made of…but that’s not necessarily the case. There are marketing hacks that have been approved and are actually legal where the wording can lead you to believe the food you’re buying is made mainly from the meat which you’re choosing, but with a little more research, you’ll find that this is just not the case.

According to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) website, the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) is a voluntary

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joint association of local, state and federal feed control officials, including officials from the FDA, working to safeguard the health of animals and people, ensure consumer protection and provide a level playing field of orderly commerce for the animal feed industry. They have determined that pet food labels and packaging must abide by four rules.

The first rule is the “95 Percent Rule.” This rule states that at least 95 percent of the product must be the named ingredient listed on the package. So, in simple terms, if the label says “Beef Dog Food” or “Lamb for Dogs,” then the product must

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contain at least 95 percent of that meat, and it must contain at least 70 percent of the product when counting the added water. The remaining five percent of the product must be the required ingredients to make the product nutritionally sound, such as vitamins, minerals and any small amounts of other ingredients such as preservatives. This is the most transparent rule; if you name a meat or other ingredient on the package, then it must contain 95 percent of that ingredient.

The second rule is the “25 Percent Rule.” This is where it starts to get a bit more complicated. For the 25 Percent Rule, a product only has to contain 25 percent of the product advertised on the package—but the trick is in the wording. If you see a pet food called “Beef Entrée” or “Chicken Dinner” or “Salmon Platter” rather than straight forward “Beef for Dogs,” this is the 25 Percent Rule being applied. The food you are looking at only has 25 percent of the ingredient listed on the package, not including water, and at least 10 percent when including the water. So, if they have at least 25 percent of the ingredient but less than 95 percent, they have to use the qualifying terms “entrée,” “platter” or “dinner.” Tricky, yes, but completely legal, and a consumer who never learned this would be none the wiser.

The third rule is the “’With’ Rule.” This rule states that a pet food label must contain the word “with” when the product contains only three percent of the product on the label. For example, if you see a bag of dog food that is labeled “Dog Dinner Platter with Chicken,” there is only three percent chicken in that

The addition of one single word changes the percentage by a huge amount and the rest can be fillers such as corn, grains and other ingredients that don’t provide the best nutrition for your pet.

food. The same goes with multiple ingredients on a package label such as “Beef Dinner with Peas,” which would indicate that the food you are looking at has 25 percent beef (because it is called “Beef Dinner” rather than just “Beef ”) and only three percent peas because the single word “with” was added.

This is why understanding food labeling is so important in order to identify what you’re actually buying. The addition of one single word changes the percentage by a huge amount and the rest can be fillers such as corn, grains and other ingredients that don’t provide the best nutrition for your pet.

The last rule is the “’Flavor’ Rule,” and this rule is the most deceptive of them all, in my opinion.

For this rule, the word “flavor” is

key to understanding what’s really in the bag. According to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), if the label says “Chicken Flavor Dog Food,” a specific percentage of the named ingredient (chicken) is not required, but the product must contain enough of the product to be detected. Let that sink in…the label can call it Chicken, Beef, Pork, Salmon, etc., but if they add the word “flavor” to it, then it really doesn’t have to contain any specific amount except enough to be detected.

The only catch is that the word “flavor” must be in the same font, size and color as the advertised ingredient such as Chicken, Beef or Pork.

Another marketing term that leads a consumer to believe they’re

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The term “organic” on pet food labels must meet these few requirements: no artificial preservatives, colors or flavoring, no antibiotics or growth hormones in the meat and meat by products, and little to no fillers. buying a quality product are the words “complete and balanced” added to the packaging. This statement simply means that the ingredients meet the government standards for all life stages of adult dogs. Often you’ll see labeling stating the food is a “Performance Diet” or “Senior Diet,” but AAFCO only recognizes four stages: gestation/ lactation, growth, maintenance and all life stages. So, a “Senior” or “Performance” formula, in reality, only has to meet the requirements of adult maintenance and doesn’t

have to meet any higher standards.

In some cases the formula may contain higher levels of proteins, carbs or fats for energy, but it doesn’t actually have to.

And all you organic food lovers out there, be aware that there are currently no specific regulations about organic ingredients and labeling when it comes to pet foods, but they are being developed. In the meantime, the term “organic” on pet food labels must meet these few requirements: no artificial preservatives, colors or flavoring, no

antibiotics or growth hormones in the meat and meat by products, and little to no fillers. This isn’t quite the definition of “organic,” but at least it offers some insight to what’s in that particular food.

The long and short of it is that to offer your pet the best or the most beneficial diet, you must understand that labels aren’t always what they seem. Be an informed consumer, do a little research, and read between the lines of the labels to ensure that you and your pet are living your best life. &

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by Daryl Conner

What sets successful groomers apart from those who are struggling?

I asked a gaggle of my favorite outstanding groomers this question and saw that a bit of a theme developed.

H

ere is a collective list of ten things that those groomers credit to aiding in their success: 1. Build relationships with the pet owners. As much as we love working with pets, it is the people who choose to bring them to us (and hopefully back to us again and again) and who pay us the fees that keep our doors open. One groomer put it very succinctly: “Hospitality is key to a successful grooming business.” Grooming

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is a service industry and, as such, grows primarily by word of mouth.

And you know who spreads the word?

Not the pets!

2. Learn to read canine (and feline) behavior. Understanding why animals react the way they do is key to handling—and expert handling is key to true success. It is also essential to understand how an animal's structure and anatomy affect how they act while being handled. A dog may seem "normal" at first glance, but if it is built

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in such a way that its anatomy limits its movement, you will need to adjust your handling accordingly, or one of you may be injured.

3. Never forget that grooming is a business. Consider how you wish to run your business and then do so firmly, fairly and consistently.

Do not let customers pressure you to work longer hours than you choose or perform services that you disagree with. One groomer reminded me of the importance of stylists taking time

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 6 • June 2021

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to do the math and making sure their business is profitable and not just a glorified hobby.

4. Invest in good tools and maintain them properly. I believe more groomers burn out due to the lack of modern time– and labor–saving equipment than for any other reason. Good tools pay for themselves in a remarkably short period, and gift us the ability to work more efficiently and safely for years to come. If you are working without a lift table, bathing system, clipper vacuum system, high velocity dryer or high–quality hand tools, you are not setting yourself up for success.

5. Good prep work is the basis of all grooming. If the animals you work on are not properly cleaned, dried and brushed, you will never achieve a genuinely high–quality finish. This is part technique and part products. There are so many quality shampoos and conditioners and helpful after–bath sprays, mousses, etc., available to us, and choosing well can make a remarkable difference in the results you achieve.

6. Learn to say “no.” I once heard someone quip, “‘No’ can be a complete sentence.” You can say “no” to dogs that appear to be dangerous, or to customers with unrealistic demands.

As I have gotten older, I have had to say “no” to dogs that are too big for my aging body to handle safely. Saying “no” can feel scary, but it is an important life and business skill. To make it easier, learn to couple your “no” with an alternative suggestion; “No, I cannot groom your Newfoundland, but here is the number of a local groomer who specializes in large breeds.”

7. Act and appear as a professional. From your clothing to your behavior, if you want to be respected as a professional, you have to look and play the part. One groomer said, “Always work with the same care and

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concern as you would if the pet’s owner were watching you.” Never let anger or frustration get the best of you. If you need to take a moment away from a pet to regroup, do so.

8. Take care of your body. Martyrdom is not part of the pet groomer's job description. Don’t overbook yourself consistently and take that lunch break. It was best said like this: "Take care of yourself to the same standards as you would take care of your beloved pets." This hit home with me in a big way a few years back. I had a horrible skin inflammation and I refused to go to the doctor. After a few weeks, my sister said, "If your dog had this problem, you would have had it to the vet ages ago." I had to humbly admit she was right, saw a doctor and was soon on the mend.

9. Make sure you have health and supplemental insurance. One groomer friend has been hospitalized with significant health problems three times in the past year. She said, “I was trying to be frugal and didn’t buy Short Term Disability insurance. Now I am home–bound without income for at least three months. Get insurance!"

10. No matter how long you have been grooming, never stop learning. This year marks my 37th year at the table. I recently took an excellent online hand–stripping class taught by an amazingly talented groomer. I learned some fun tricks and found some new tools I need to order—plus I feel renewed energy and excitement for my work. Continuing your education over the entire span of your career is one way to keep falling in love with your work over and over again.

Grooming is a job that is rich in both challenges and rewards. Take advice from people who have made successful, long– term careers in this industry and see if you, too, can thrive while doing meaningful work that you love. &

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 6 • June 2021

T

he Modified Continental Clip, or MCC, is also known as the Historically Correct Continental, or HCC. The tighter version to this trim would be the Hunt Clip. The MCC has been around for years but has recently become more popular in the AKC and grooming competition rings with more skilled groomers and handlers taking this once thought of “petsy” trim to the next level and making it more stylish and competitive with the big spray–ups.

The way it was explained to me years ago is the MCC should have the same outline as a Continental and the head should taper down into the ears to

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frame the face the same way a spray–up would. There should be no visible bevel line over the ear.

To obtain this look, I start with a properly bathed and blown–dry dog, and the coat should be combed out and free of matts and tangles. Using anywhere from a #40 to a #10 blade (depending on the sensitivity and pigment of the dog’s skin), I start my clipper work with the face and feet. I find the 5–in–1–type clippers are easiest to use for this as they are nice and smooth and don’t tend to grab the skin or heat up.

Fig 1) Next, I move on to the

FIG. 2

rear of the dog and clip in the base of the tail and set the line for the back of my rosettes measuring two fingers in front of the base of the tail.

Fig 2) I make a line between the rosettes about half of a blade length following the spine.

Fig 3) Using my clipper to edge, I

FIG. 3

FIG. 4

sculpt in the rosettes nice and round, and then finish scissoring them with a smaller pair of curved shears.

Fig 4) The back of the jacket is set just behind the last rib, but may be tweaked depending on the dog’s length of back or loin. I use a straight shear to rough in the line all the way

around the waist, then use the clipper to carve it in.

Fig 5) To set in my back bracelets, I start the backside of them two fingers above the hock and clip the top at a forward angle to create angulation, then the back leg is clipped up to the rosette against

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59

FIG. 5

the grain.

Fig 6) The rear bracelets are scissored in an almost upside down triangular shape to accentuate the angles of the leg. The top of the front bracelets should be level with the highest point of the back bracelets.

Fig 7) Clip the leg against the grain up to the elbow using the clipper

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Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 6 • June 2021

FIG. 6

to edge in a nice crisp line.

Fig 8) The front bracelets are scissored into an oval shape to create height (and more rounded on Toys and Minis where you may not want to necessarily accentuate height).

The underline of the jacket should come out from the elbow, it should not dip downward making the dog look

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FIG. 7

sway backed.

The chest should be a continuation of the underline coming out through the front legs and be rounded up into the neckline, neither making the dog look heavy in the front nor straight in the shoulder. I set in the neck with my curved shears in reverse rolling them into the side of the neck and jacket and

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FIG. 8

FIG. 9

FIG. 10

blending it down into the chest.

The side coat should be full and slightly rounded, never slab–sided.

The base of the jacket is scissored at a steep angle to create more length of neck—there should not be a hump! Use your curved shears in reverse to transition the topline up into the neck and then turn them back to go up over the top of the head.

Fig 9) You want to make the area above the back of the occiput your highest point for maximum length of neck. Bevel your visor in above the eyes and scissor back to the front corner of the ear, then round the visor up into the topknot.

Fig 10) Blend the sides of the topknot down into the top of the ears and then round up the bottoms.

Finally, I scissor the tail into a nice big oval. The size of the tail should be balanced with size of the head.

Happy grooming everyone! &

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GROOMER WANTED Ridge Dog Shop, Inc. has been in business since 1974 in the same location. We have a large and loyal client base. The current ownership has been in place since 1993. Seeking individual with thorough knowledge of Dog Grooming along with Managerial background.

Responsibilities to include: Ability to learn the opening and closing process of the salon. Ability to book appointments, answering phones as needed, meeting with clients to discuss their pet’s needs, Establish a good working relationship with current Front Desk Manager. Hiring/counseling/training of grooming assistant staff responsible for bathing/drying/ nail trimming and finishing dogs and cleaning at end of day’s work. Ability to learn and aid in the flow of work production throughout the busy day. Ability to rough-in or “pre-cut” to the groomer’s needs and the client’s desired clip style. Ability to de-matt and remove undercoat.

Ability to recognize and control overhead costs i.e. labor costs, product cost, energy costs, shampoo usage etc. Ability to groom and offer support to staff of finish groomers.

Ridge Dog Shop in Richmond VA is seeking a dog groomer skilled in all breed clips as well as hand scissored clips to join our dedicated team. Must be knowledgeable of dog breeds and behavior. Part-time or full time employment available. Compensation by the hour or a daily rate and can be discussed during your interview. Paid vacation in addition to 11 holiday days off per year. Our groomers earn more than commissioned groomers as a rule and your income will be very consistent - better for your life plan. Friendly team and a busy but fun work environment. Please call 804-288-0605 to schedule an interview. We look forward to meeting you and discussing your future.

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Let heaven fill your thoughts; don’t spend your time worrying about things down here.

Colossians 3:2 Living Bible Groomer to Groomer • Vol 40 Ed 6 • June 2021

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