OUR FOOD ISSUE / BEHIND THE COUNTER / @HPAVOCADO / A WINTER SURVIVAL GUIDE / SPIRIT OF VALOIS / RESTAURANT DIRECTORY/ IN THE NEWS / IT VULNERABLITIES / REPARATIONS / LAUNCH PARTY TODAY / 1â€“3 PM / REYNOLDS CLUB SOUTH LOUNGE / CATERED BY CEMITAS, OPEN PRODUCE / RAFFLE WITH PRIZES NOVEMBER 28, 2017 / VOL. 129, ISSUE 18
THE CHICAGO MAROON - NOVEMBER 28, 2017
TABLE OF CONTENTS
• Hyde Park Bar Crawl Page 12
2017 Food Issue • Behind the Counter with Hyde Park Restauranteurs Page 3
• Study Breaks and Other Finals Week Distractions Page 13
• Hyde Park Restaurant Directory Page 4
• Lindy’s Chili and Gertie’s Ice Cream (Sponsored by Bite Magazine) Page 13
• Gone Shopping: Hyde Park Grocers Page 6
• A Pit Stop with HP Avocado Page 6 • Cooking 101: A Winter Survival Guide in Three Steps Page 7 • The Spirit of Valois Page 8
• University Hospital Patient Information Was Potentially Vulnerable to Hackers Page 14 • Est. 1856? Why Organizers Say U of C Owes Reparations Page 15
• Eliminating the Shack Page 10
Viewpoints, Arts, and Sports content can be read online throughout the week at chicagomaroon.com.
• POAH to Open Jewel-Osco in Woodlawn Page 11
Cover by Ted Davis, Class of 2020
Adam Thorp, Editor-in-Chief Hannah Edgar, Deputy Editor-in-Chief Euirim Choi, Managing Editor Stephanie Liu, Managing Editor The MAROON Editorial Board consists of the Editors-in-Chief and editors of THE MAROON.
Lee Harris, editor Eugenia Ko, editor Deepti Sailappan, editor Pete Grieve, editor Sonia Schlesinger, editor
Feng Ye, editor Brooke Nagler, editor VIDEO
Grace Hauck, editor
Cole Martin, editor Urvi Kumbhat, editor
Andrew Mamo, chief financial officer
Alexia Bacigalupi, editor May Huang, editor SPORTS
Michael Perry, editor Cavell Means, editor DESIGN
Kay Yang, production manager Peng-Peng Liu, head designer
Olive Lopez, director of development Antonia Salisbury, director of marketing Ross Piper, director of marketing Taylor Bachelis, director of operations Alex Markowitz, director of strategy Regina Filomeno, business manager Harry Backlund, distributor
Morganne Ramsey, copy chief Michelle Zhao, copy chief Katrina Lee, copy chief Patrick Lou, copy chief
Design Associates: Bonnie Hu, Evan Kreinces
Wendy Lee, editor SOCIAL MEDIA
Jamie Ehrlich, editor ONLINE
Vishal Talasani, editor
Editor-in-Chief E-mail: Editor@ChicagoMaroon.com Newsroom Phone: (314) 239-0993 Business Phone: (773) 702-9555 Fax: (773) 702-3032 For advertising inquiries, please contact Ads@ChicagoMaroon.com or (773) 702-9555. Circulation: 2,000. © 2017 THE CHICAGO MAROON Ida Noyes Hall / 1212 East 59th Street / Chicago, IL 60637
THE CHICAGO MAROON - NOVEMBER 28, 2017
The Promontory | Feng Ye
Behind the Counter with Hyde Park Restaurateurs
BY CINDY YAO NEWS REPORTER
Hyde Park’s restaurant scene has changed dramatically in the past few years alone. Walk down 53rd Street, and you’ll find veteran Hyde Park restaurants standing shoulder to shoulder with newer ventures by North Side restaurateurs. We caught up with the folks behind five local restaurants and asked them about their culinary journey to Hyde Park.
A10 Matthias Merges and James Martin are the respective proprietor chef and executive chef of A10, an eatery and bar that arrived in Hyde Park on November 5, 2013. The inspiration for A10 came from Merges’s travel experiences in Northern Italy and Southern France. Inspired by the regions’ deep history and diverse cultures, Merges chose to feature handmade, centuries-old craft cooking at A10. “The opportunity to spend time in Hyde Park over the last 20 years has given me the chance to understand and connect with the community,” Merges said. “I always had in the back of my mind, ‘What a great place to open a neighborhood restaurant focusing on craft and product.’” Unlike Merges, Martin is new to the team: He started at A10 about four weeks ago. He begins a typical day by walking his dog before heading off to work, where he develops the new winter menu, builds relationships with purveyors, and directs the kitchen team, including the sous chef, line cooks, and dishwasher. Then, at around 4 to 4:30 p.m., the kitchen eats a family meal together, which gives the team the chance to connect and breathe before the restaurant opens at 5 p.m. Growing up, Martin developed a love for food after watching his family members and friends cook. He recalled specific memories of his babysitter cooking fried chicken. “I didn’t know it then, but I think it is when I gained an appreciation for food and flavor,” Martin told The Maroon via e-mail. In high school, Martin learned to cook in the kitchens of Five Guys, Domino’s, and southern comfort food chain Carolina Kitchen. He gained his first fine dining experience while in culinary school at Morrison House, a hotel in Alexandria, VA. “It was a start, and I pushed after I graduated to work in some of the best kitchens,” Martin said of his experience.
Martin is most proud of his growth. “From Five Guys as a teen to culinary school, fine dining, casual service, a pop-up venture and then back to casual-fine dining, I’ve learned a lot about who I am through it all—including the mistakes.” Ja’ Grill Tony Coates is the owner of Ja’ Grill Hyde Park, a restaurant specializing in Jamaican cuisine. His desire to bring a unique flavor to Chicago led him to open Ja’ Grill. “What makes us happy is to provide authentic Jamaican cuisine with quality spirits and a music vibe that leaves you with a feeling of being in Jamaica,” Coates said. Prior to opening Ja’ Grill, Coates worked in the investment banking business. He studied engineering in college, then business and finance in graduate school. But after taking food sanitation classes, he began rounding up capital to start a restaurant. He built connections with experienced people in the industry to learn the intricacies of managing a restaurant. Today, Coates runs Ja’ Grill and continues to work in investment banking. Ja’ Grill first opened in Lincoln Park on August 14, 2007. Seven years later Coates was presented with a unique offer: to move the restaurant down to Hyde Park as part of a deal with the University of Chicago development and real estate team. “They came and marketed the Hyde Park area to see if I could come down,” Coates said. “It was a very unique situation.” Coates agreed, and Ja’ Grill relocated to Hyde Park on August 14, 2014. The restaurant recently celebrated its 10-year anniversary since first opening in Lincoln Park. “A lot of my previous patrons were from the South Side, so now that [the restaurant] moved closer we have a much bigger, stronger patronage in Hyde Park,” Coates said. The Nile Restaurant Rashad Moughrabi is the owner of the Nile Restaurant, a restaurant specializing in Middle Eastern cuisine. Moughrabi grew up in the restaurant business. At 15, he started working at the Nile, which his father opened 26 years ago. According to Moughrabi, his experiences in his family restaurant taught him how to work hard and gave him an appreciation and passion for food. In addition to being the owner, Moughrabi is also a main cook at the Nile. He spends his days cooking, working with employees, and interacting with customers to give them the
best experience possible. Four years ago, the Nile relocated near the intersection of 55th Street and Woodlawn Avenue in order to move to a slightly bigger space closer to campus. This upgrade, while daunting, was one of Moughrabi’s biggest accomplishments. “It was scary to move [the restaurant] even five or six blocks and design and fill out a whole new space, but it worked really well,” Moughrabi said. The Snail The Snail is a restaurant specializing in traditional Thai cuisine on 55th Street. Before pursuing a career in the restaurant business, the owner of Snail—who preferred to remain anonymous—was a nurse, working in Thailand for seven years and in Switzerland for three years. She later got a work permit to come to the United States, where she worked night shifts at a hospital. Snail’s owner started her career as a restaurant owner after she and her friend had enough savings to buy a former Thai restaurant in Hyde Park, where she still lives. The owner, now 58 years old, has run Snail for around 25 years. She works at the restaurant every day of the week, starting her day at 8 a.m. and ending it at 10 p.m. The bulk of the work falls on the weekend, when the restaurant is busiest. “I love to give and I love to see people happy in our [restaurant],” the owner said. The Promontory Bruce Finkelman is the owner of 16” on Center, a restaurant and music venue development company. He opened The Promontory on
July 21, 2014, after the University of Chicago reached out to him with a goal of revitalizing the restaurant scene in Hyde Park. Finkelman was charmed by Hyde Park’s history and location, calling it a “hidden treasure.” “It’s just such an inspiring neighborhood and area, coupled with it being the home to one of the most prestigious universities. This was very special to be a part of,” Finkelman said. The Promontory was inspired by Promontory Point, the park by Lake Michigan more commonly known as the Point. Aside from housing a restaurant and bar, there is also a live music venue on the upper floor, which transforms into a dance floor for free salsa nights on every third Wednesday of the month. “Although [the restaurant and music venue] exist in separate floors, it’s also very important to look at the combination of these two great passions— not only of ours, but of a lot of folks,” Finkelman said. “The combination of food and music is really important.” In a typical day, Finkelman will often meet with venue directors, chefs, music curators, and other team members, offering whatever expertise he can to push the company forward. Each venue has a designated time for weekly meetings, which gives Finkelman the chance to check in with all the key people for that individual venue. Finkelman initially started a career in the hotel business, but left to pursue his passion for music. “I enjoyed the creativity of people that were part of [music], and I made what I love part of my job,” Finkelman said.
A10 executive chef James Martin gets hands-on in the kitchen.
THE CHICAGO MAROON - NOVEMBER 28, 2017
Hyde Park Restaurant Directory Dollar sign ratings follow the guideline of $1–25 = $,
Hyde Park, with an array of different taco fillings
$26–49 = $$, $50+ = $$$.
A staple for Mediterranean and Middle Eastern food
on hand (including vegetarian and vegan options). Papa John’s
on Kimbark Plaza. 53RD STREET & HARPER COURT
(773) 752-7272, 10 a.m.–Midnight Sun–Thu, 10
(773) 752-5375, 11 a.m.–2 a.m., Mon–Sun $$
a.m.–1 a.m. Fri–Sat, $
(773) 324-1999, Noon–10 p.m. Sun–Mon, 11:30
1510 East Harper Court
1418 East 53rd Street
(773) 288-1010, 4–9 p.m. Mon, 4–10 p.m. Tue–Thu,
a.m.–Midnight Tue–Thu, 11:30 a.m.–1 a.m. Fri–
Jamaican, Caribbean, Vegetarian Options, Takeout
Pizza, Vegetarian Options, Takeout and Delivery
4–11 p.m. Fri–Sat, 10 a.m.–2 p.m. and 4–9 p.m.
Ja’Grill has a bar with Tuesday complimentary
It doesn’t serve deep dish, but Papa John’s is a com-
1509 East 53rd Street
wine tastings and a DJ venue, featuring a variety
forting pizza standard for Chicagoans and more.
1462 East 53rd Street
Thai, American, Fusion, Vegetarian Options, Take-
Italian, Seafood, Takeout, Vegetarian Options,
out and Delivery
Chant serves Asian-American fusion, with the add-
(773) 324-7777, 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $$$
One of Hyde Park’s most upscale restaurants, which
ed perk of regular live music.
(773) 643-8008, 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Mon–Thu, 11 a.m.–
1501 East 53rd Street
1 a.m. Fri–Sat, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Sun,
Pizza, Italian, Vegetarian Options, Takeout and
Chipotle Mexican Grill
5215 South Harper Avenue, $$
Aloha Poke Co.
(773) 347-0008, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $
Sandwiches, Pizza, Vegetarian Options
This sit-down Italian mainstay makes a deep-dish
(872) 465-3747, 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $–$$
Harper Court Shops, 1522 East 53rd Street
This new addition to Harper Court features dozens
pie to rival Giordano’s.
5221 South Harper Court
Mexican, Burritos, Vegetarian Options, Takeout
of beers on tap and a sophisticated take on bar food.
Hawaiian, Seafood, Fast Food, No Alcohol, Takeout
The grand dame of fast-casual, with a near-monop-
Make friends at the long picnic-style tables.
The newest location of this expanding Chicago-based
oly on catered RSO events.
recently earned a visit from Rahm Emanuel.
Pockets (773) 667-1313, 11 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon–Sun, $
1307 East 53rd Street
(773) 675-6731, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Sun–Thurs, 11
Sandwiches, Fast Food, Vegetarian and Vegan Op-
(773) 288-5719, open 24 hours Mon–Sun, $
a.m.–11 p.m. Fri–Sat, $
tions, No Alcohol, Takeout and Delivery
(773) 947-0735, 7 a.m.–6 p.m. Mon–Fri, 8 a.m.–6
1411 East 53rd Street,
5226 South Harper Street
Pockets has several other Chicago locations, and can
p.m. Sat, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Sun, $
Donuts, Coffee, Breakfast
Ice Cream, Dessert, No Alcohol, Takeout
host in-store fundraising events for local groups.
1558 East 53rd Street
Come for the coffee, leave with a dozen (or two).
This sweets store just opened its second Chicago lo-
franchise. (A poke primer: It’s like sushi, in a bowl.)
cation downtown on South Michigan Avenue.
Breakfast, Sandwiches, Vegetarian Options, No Al-
cohol, Takeout and Delivery
Einstein Bros. Bagels
Located under the Metra tracks, Ancien Cycles
(773) 947-0485, 6 a.m.–4 p.m. Mon–Sun, $
a.m.–2 a.m. Fri–Sat, $$–$$$
is a combined bike shop and café, serving all-day
5225 South Harper Court
(773) 363-2600, 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Mon–Thurs, 11
1516 East Harper Court
Breakfast, Coffee, Fast Food, No Alcohol, Takeout
a.m.–Midnight Fri, 10 a.m.–Midnight Sat, 10
BBQ, Bar Food, American, Breakfast, Vegetarian
Einstein Bros. no longer has a location in the Reyn-
a.m.–10 p.m. Sun, $$
BBQ Supply Co.
olds Club, but the chain still has a presence in Hyde
1236 E. 53rd Street
A combination restaurant and bar, Porkchop hosts
(773) 675-1410, Closed Mon, 11 a.m.–9 p.m. Tue–
Park, in Harper Court.
Italian, Pizza, Sandwiches, Vegetarian Options,
regular live music.
(773) 493-9333, 10:30 a.m.–Midnight Sun–Thu, 10
Takeout and Delivery
Sun, $$ 1301 East 53rd Street
Eto’o Modern Asian Cuisine
The Leona’s chain has been around since the 1950s,
(773) 891-2554, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $$
with a full bar and kid friendly options.
(773) 955-1145, 11 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon–Sat, Noon–7:30
Having opened this year into the void created by
1373 East 53rd Street
Ribs ’n’ Bibs closing, BBQ Supply Co. drew attention
Japanese, Fusion, Vegetarian Options, No Alcohol,
Litehouse Whole Food Grill
1459 East 53rd Street
with its 24-karat gold signage, whisky selection, and
Takeout and Delivery
(773) 633-2587, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Thurs, 11
Indian, American, Cajun, Halal, No Alcohol, Take-
With a name referring to a type of chopping knife,
a.m.–8 p.m. Fri, 8:30 a.m.–Midnight, $
out and Delivery
it’s no surprise that Eto’o’s menu prominently fea-
1373 East 53rd Street
One of the major suppliers of UChicago’s campus
tures steaks and other hearty chunks of meat in
American, Mexican, Pizza, Breakfast, Vegetarian
cafés, Rajun Cajun serves home-style Indian and
(773) 684-8688, 10 a.m.–11 p.m. Mon–Sun, $
addition to noodles, soups, and lighter fare.
and Vegan Options, Takeout and Delivery
p.m. Sun, $
Founded by the enthusiastic “Mr. Litehouse Grill”
1601 East 53rd Street Pizza, Sandwiches, Italian, Vegetarian Options,
Eric Nance, this new restaurant serves an incredi-
Roti Mediterranean Grill
Takeout and Delivery
(773) 658-9842, 7 a.m.–7 p.m. Mon–Fri, 8 a.m.–5
ble variety of food and hosts events including paint
(773) 906-5582, 11 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon–Sun, $
Try ordering via “The Chole Hole,” a tiny window
p.m. Sat–Sun, $–$$
parties and slam poetry.
1526 East 53rd Street
which connects Cholie’s to the neighboring Falcon
1658 East 53rd Street
Breakfast, Dessert, Sandwiches, Pastries, No Alco-
Alcohol, Fast Food, Takeout and Delivery
hol, Vegetarian Options
(773) 288-2161, 6 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $
A Mediterranean twist on the make-your-own Chi-
Formerly located in University Church, Fabiana’s
5200 South Lake Park Avenue
(872) 465-3701, 10 a.m.–10 p.m., Mon–Sun, $
also makes pastries, Brazilian sweets, and cakes
American, Fast Food, No Alcohol, Takeout
1310 East 53rd Street
for all occasions.
Amazingly, the only McDonald’s in Hyde Park.
Mellow Yellow Restaurant
p.m. Sat–Sun, $
One of Hyde Park’s most recent additions, Antoni
(773) 363-6090, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $
(773) 667-2000, 7 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $$
5301 South Hyde Park Boulevard
1 serves gyros, souvlaki, and other Greek classics
1456 East 53rd Street
1508 East 53rd Street
Breakfast, Coffee, Vegetarian Options
out of Pepe’s Mexican restaurant’s former storefront.
Hamburgers, Hot Dogs, No Alcohol, Takeout and
American, Sandwiches, Vegetarian Options, Take-
A hip café with a lakeside location and comfortable
out and Delivery
seating. Try the shakes or smoothies.
Regional rivalries aside, Five Guys is a popular spot
Mellow Yellow got its name when owner Ken Pelleti-
(773) 742-7992, Open 24 hours. Mon–Sun, $
for burgers in the $8–10 range.
er’s daughters wrote to Donovan, author and singer
of the song “Mellow Yellow,” asking to be allowed
(773) 966-6669, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $$
Mediterranean, Sandwich, Vegetarian Options, No
Sip & Savor (773) 952-4532, 6 a.m.–8 p.m. Mon–Fri, 7 a.m.–7
Greek, Mediterranean, Sandwiches, Barbecue,
1418 East 53rd Street Dessert, Fast Food, No Alcohol
to use the name, and were told they could free of
1375 East 53rd Street
Barack and Michelle Obama visited this Baskin–
(773) 947-0200, 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Mon–Sat, Noon–11
Sushi, BYOB, Vegetarian and Vegan, Takeout and
Robbins on their first date.
p.m. Sun, $$
5311 South Blackstone Avenue
Nathan’s Chicago Style & Taste of Jamaica
What’s first year without the requisite all-you-can-
Pizza, Italian, BYOB, Vegetarian Options, Takeout
(773) 288-5353, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sat, Noon–7
eat sojourn to Shinju?
(773) 288-2600, 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $
p.m. Sun, $
1424-28 East 53rd Street
One of Chicago’s quintessential pizza chains. Bring
1372 East 53rd Street
Starbucks 53rd Street
American, Chicken, No Alcohol, Takeout and De-
out-of-towners who want to experience Chicago’s
Hot Dogs, American, Jamaican, Seafood
(773) 324-1241, 5 a.m.–9 p.m. Sun–Thu, 5 a.m.–10
deep-dish phenomenon firsthand.
Nathan’s focuses on takeout, with a broad menu of
p.m. Fri–Sat, $
American classics rounded out with Jamaican op-
1530 East 53rd Street
tions like jerk chicken and Ting soda.
Coffee, Breakfast, Sandwiches, Boxed food
Specializes in home-style, comfort food like chicken, mac and cheese, and mashed potatoes.
Harold’s Chicken Shack
This Starbucks location is in Harper Court. There is
(773) 752-9260, 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Mon–Thu, 11 a.m.– Cafe 53
Midnight Fri–Sat, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Sun, $
Native Foods Café
also a separate Starbucks location inside the Target
(773) 493-1000, 8 a.m.–9 p.m. Sun–Mon, 8 a.m.–10
Kimbark Plaza, 1208 East 53rd Street
(773) 241-7800, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $$
on 1346 East 53rd Street.
p.m. Fri–Sat, $
American, No Alcohol, Takeout and Delivery
Harper Court Shops, 1518 East Harper Court
1369 East 53rd Street
Light of our lives, fire of our digestive tracts. There
Sandwiches, Vegetarian and Vegan, Takeout and
Sandwiches, Desserts, Coffee, Vegetarian and Veg-
are only two kinds of people in this world: those who
(773) 288-8400, 6:30 a.m.–Midnight Mon–Sat, 7
an Options, No alcohol, Halal, Takeout and Delivery
take their sauce on top and those who take it on the
Serves health-oriented, exclusively vegan food in-
a.m. – Midnight Sun, $
A popular spot for studying and relaxing, with a
side. BYON (bring your own napkins).
cluding sandwiches, nachos, and desserts.
1400 East 53rd Street
Hyde Park Taco Station
Nicky’s Chinese Food
Cedars Mediterranean Kitchen
(773) 891-1118, 11 a.m.– 9 p.m. Mon–Sun, $
(773) 324-5340, 10:30 a.m.–11:30 p.m. Mon–Sun, $
Footlongs aren’t really five dollars anymore, but
(773) 324-6227, 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m. Sun–Thurs,
5300 South Dorchester Avenue
5231 South Woodlawn Avenue
don’t let that stop you from indulging in the dizzy-
11:30 a.m.–11 p.m. Fri, $$
Mexican, Burritos, Fast Food, Takeout and Delivery
Chinese, No Alcohol, Vegetarian options, Takeout
ing power trip of no-holds-barred sandwich custom-
1206 East 53rd Street
The departure of Ribs ’n’ Bibs in 2014 left big shoes
Mediterranean, Halal, No Alcohol, Takeout and
to fill, but the Taco Station is a worthy addition to
Founded in 1981, Nicky’s focuses on takeout and
Sandwiches, Fast Food, No Alcohol, Takeout and
wide selection of paninis, snacks, and drinks.
Continued on page 5
THE CHICAGO MAROON - NOVEMBER 28, 2017 Continued from page 4
by the Michelin Guide, La Petite Folie offers high-
(773) 546-9961, closed Mon, 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Tue–
Fri, 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Sat, 11 a.m.–11:30 p.m. Sun, $ Joseph Regenstein Library
class French dining and an impressive selection of B’Gabs Goodies
Sandwiches, Coffee, Boxed Food, Vegetarian Op-
(773) 256-1000, 8 a.m.–8 p.m. Mon–Sat, Closed Sun
Fri, Noon–7 p.m. Sat, Noon–6 p.m. Sun
1450 East 57th Street
Ex Lib serves Regenstein Library from its location
1368.5 East 53rd Street, $
(773) 643-3155, 10 a.m.–11 p.m. Mon–Wed, 10–2
Sandwiches, Vegetarian and Vegan, No Alcohol
at the back of the first floor, with long benches for
a.m. Thu–Sat, 11 a.m.–Midnight Sun, $$
B’Gabs serves creative uses of vegan ingredients
studying and group meetings.
This pick-and-mix artisanal candy shop founded by
5506 South Lake Park Avenue
made into sandwiches, burgers, burritos, and
a Kenwood Academy grad is the latest addition to
Mexican, Breakfast, Vegetarian Options, Takeout
more, along with a wide selection of fresh juices
(773) 702-8787, 8:30 a.m.–11:30 p.m. Mon–Thu, 8:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Fri, 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Sat, 11:30
Maravilla’s features Mexican cuisine classics and an The Promontory
ample margarita selection.
(312) 801-2100, 11 a.m.–3 p.m. and 5–11 p.m. Mon–
a.m.–11:30 p.m. Sun, $
(773) 420-3631, 11 a.m.–9 p.m. Sun–Thu, 11 a.m.–
Third Floor, Reynolds Club
Thu, 11 a.m.–3 p.m. and 5 p.m.–1 a.m. Fri, 9 a.m.–3
10:30 p.m. Fri–Sat, $–$$
Breakfast, Pastries, Coffee, Boxed Food, Vegetarian
p.m. and 5 p.m.–1 a.m. Sat, 9 a.m.–3 p.m. and 5
(773) 363-3800, 8 a.m.–8 p.m. Mon–Sat, 9 a.m.–5
1321 East 57th Street
p.m.– 11 p.m. Sun, $$$
p.m. Sun, $
Mexican, Fast Food, Takeout and Delivery
Hallowed Grounds is located on the second floor
5311 South Lake Park Avenue
5500 South Cornell Avenue
This establishment might be known for its cemitas,
of the Reynolds Club, with pool tables and ample
American, Brunch, Vegetarian Options
Breakfast, Sandwiches, American, Desserts, Veg-
but its tacos are nothing to shake a stick at, either.
Specializes in fine dining and weekend brunch, with
etarian Options, No Alcohol, Takeout and Delivery
Try its horchata latte for a caffeine boost to last you
a bar and upstairs music venue.
Founded in 1960 by the father of financial adviser
the rest of the day.
The Sit Down
also still operates as a deli.
(773) 324-3700, 11 a.m.–9:30 p.m. Sun–Thurs, 11
Grounds of Being (773) 834-9052, 7:45 a.m.–4 p.m. Mon–Fri, Closed
and TV host Suze Orman, Morry’s serves meals but Medici on 57th
(773) 667-7394, 7 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Fri, 9 a.m.–11
Basement, Swift Hall
a.m.–10:30 p.m. Fri–Sat, $$
Nella Pizza e Pasta
p.m. Sat–Sun, $$
Breakfast, Pastries, Coffee, Boxed Food, Vegetarian
1312 East 53rd Street
(773) 643-0603, 10:30 a.m.–10:00 p.m. Sun–Thu,
1327 East 57th Street
Options, Cash Only
Sandwiches, Sushi, Pizza, Italian, Vegetarian Op-
10:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. Fri–Sat, $$
Pizza, Sandwiches, American, Pastries, BYOB
Grounds of Being is run by students at the Divinity
1125 East 55th Street
Popular with UChicago students, Medici has a
School, and offers packaged meals from restaurants
The Sit Down offers a wide variety of food and bever-
Italian, Pizza, Pasta, Sandwiches
smaller takeout-oriented deli and bakery next door
around Hyde Park as well as pizza, bagels, and cof-
ages, including smoothies, in a well-lit dining room.
Led by Nella Grassano, a classically-trained piz-
to the restaurant.
zaiola, the traditional Neapolitan restaurant uses Wingers
ingredients imported from Napoli and makes its
(773) 667-6000, 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m. Sun–Thu, 10:30
dough by hand every day.
(773) 684-2801, 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Fri, 11 a.m.–
(619) 433-5373, 9 a.m.–Midnight Mon–Thu, 9 a.m.–
10 p.m. Sat, 11:30 a.m.–9:30 p.m. Sun, $
5 p.m. Fri, Closed Sat, Noon–Midnight Sun, $
a.m.–Midnight Fri–Sat, $ 1368 East 53rd Street
1333 East 57th Street
Third Floor, Harper Memorial Library
American, Sandwiches, Fast Food, Vegetarian Op-
(773) 363-1515, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $$
Thai, Fusion, BYOB, Vegetarian and Vegan Op-
Breakfast, Pastries, Coffee, Boxed Food, Vegetarian
tions, No Alcohol, Takeout and Delivery
1611 East 55th Street
tions, Takeout and Delivery
Wingers is a relative newcomer to Hyde Park, and
Vietnamese, Vegetarian Options, BYOB, Takeout
Noodles, Etc. also has an offshoot in Hutch, with a
Harper Café is conveniently located right outside of
serves a variety of gyros, burgers, hot dogs, and,
Harper Reading Room, and has plenty of comfort-
Besides pho, Pho 55 offers plenty of Vietnamese classics in an elegant setting.
able seating for those who prefer a slightly less quiet Salonica
(773) 752-3899, 7 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $$
(773) 667-0647, 5:30 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $
Seven Ten Lanes
1440 East 57th Street
Plein Air Café & Eatery
1518 East 53rd Street
(773) 347-2695, 11:30 a.m.–Midnight Mon–Wed,
Breakfast, Sandwiches, American, Mediterranean,
773-966-7531, 7 a.m.–8 p.m. Mon–Fri, 8 a.m.–6
Sandwich, BBQ, Breakfast, American, No Alcohol,
11:30 a.m.–1 a.m. Thu–Fri, 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m. Sat–
BYOB, Takeout and Delivery
p.m. Sat–Sun, $$
Salonica serves all-day breakfast alongside Greek
5751 South Woodlawn Avenue
Advertised as one of Barack Obama’s favorite
1055 East 55th Street
and American classics.
Sandwich, Coffee, Dessert, Vegetarian Options
restaurants, Valois serves all-day breakfast and
American, Sandwich, Pizza, Burgers, Bar Food
traditional cafeteria fare.
More than a restaurant and a bar, Seven Ten Lanes
fers light food and drip coffee, as well as outdoor
is also known for bowling and billiards.
(773) 952-4956, 8 a.m.–6 p.m. Mon–Fri, 8 a.m.–2
seating next to Frank Lloyd Wright’s Robie House.
Inside the Seminary Co-Op building, Plein Air of-
p.m. Sat, closed Sun, $ Siam Thai Cuisine Restaurant
5655 South University Ave
Pret A Manger
(773) 324-9296, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $$
Pastries, Mediterranean, Coffee, No Alcohol, Veg-
7 a.m.–11 p.m. Mon–Fri, 9 a.m.–11 p.m. Sat–Sun,
(773) 288-1795, 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon–Fri, Noon–9
1639 East 55th St
p.m. Sat, Closed Sun, $$
Thai, Vegetarian Options, BYOB, Takeout and De-
Inside Fabiana’s former site at University Church,
1603 East 55th St
Sanctuary Café features live and displayed art, with
Breakfast, Sandwiches, Boxed Food, Coffee, Pas-
Korean, Vegetarian Options, BYOB, Takeout
The massaman curry is highly recommended.
a social-justice orientation.
tries, Vegetarian Options
on a cold day, especially with a bowl of tofu stew
Starbucks 55th Street
theless, Pret seems to prove popular for those pass-
(773) 256-1930, 5 a.m.–9 p.m. Sun–Thu, 5 a.m.–10
(773) 241-7827, 7 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Fri, 8 a.m.–9
ing through Reynolds Club regularly and with plen-
p.m. Fri–Sat, $
p.m. Sat, 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Sun, $
ty of pocket change to spare.
Lutheran School Refectory/ The Refectory and Sola
1174 East 55th Street
1449 East 57th Street
Coffee, Breakfast, Sandwiches, Boxed Food
Sandwiches, Fast Food, No Alcohol, Takeout and
Miriam’s Café at the SMART
(773) 256-0702, 7:00 a.m.–2:00 p.m. Mon–Fri, $
The 55th Street Starbucks is a brick building on the
(773) 702-0200, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon–Wed and Fri–
1100 East 55th Street
corner of Woodlawn Avenue.
The 57th Street Subway closes earlier than the East
Sun, 10 a.m.–8 p.m. Thu, $
53rd Street location, which may indicate some kind
SMART Museum of Art
of Subway-location hierarchical power structure.
Sandwiches, Breakfast, Coffee, Boxed Food, Vege-
Einstein’s departure was mourned by many. None-
This small family-run restaurant is a cozy option
Breakfast, Salads, Sandwiches Located in the Lutheran School of Theology, the café
Thai 55 Restaurant
offers foods with global styles, including bibimbaps,
(773) 363-7119, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $$
“falafel flatties,” and Jamaican jerk veggie burgers.
1607 East 55th Street
Zaleski & Horvath (Z&H) Market Café
Miriam’s Café serves patrons of the SMART Muse-
Thai, Vietnamese, Vegetarian Options, BYOB,
(773) 538-7372, 7 a.m.–7 p.m. Mon–Fri, 8 a.m.–8
um and features a view of and access to the SMART
Takeout and Delivery
p.m. Sat–Sun, $$
Museum garden right outside.
(773) 241-5190, 9 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sun, $
Focusing on curry, chicken, and seafood, Thai 55
1323 East 57th Street
1519 East 55th Street
can host large events in its party room, and occa-
Sandwiches, Vegetarian Options, Takeout
Sandwiches, American, Fast Food, No Alcohol,
sionally features live music.
A hipster haven and popular alternative to the Med.
(773) 702-9737, 4 p.m.–1 a.m. Mon and Thu–Fri, 4
Founder Jimmy John Liautaud grew up in the Chi-
The Nile Restaurant
cago suburbs and developed his original menu based
(773) 324-9499, 11:00 a.m.–9:45 p.m. Mon–Sat,
on Chicago street food before opening his first store
Noon–8:45 p.m., $$$
The Pub requires a membership for $10 a year and
in Charleston, IL.
1162 East 55th Street
(773) 702-2787, 8 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sat, 11 a.m.–9
is only open to students, faculty, staff, and their
Middle Eastern, Vegetarian Options, BYOB, Take-
p.m. Sun, $
guests. It boasts 24 beers on tap and over a hundred
out and Delivery
Logan Center for the Arts
more by the bottle.
(773) 667-3727, 5–9 p.m. Sun–Mon, Noon–9:30 p.m.
The Nile serves hearty portions, and has a back
Sandwiches, Vegetarian Options, Beer and Wine
porch outdoor seating area for warmer times of the
This café serves quick staples in a comfortable en-
1601 East 55th Street
vironment right outside of Logan’s main theater.
8 a.m.–4 p.m. Mon and Wed, 8 a.m.–7 p.m. Tue and
out and Delivery
The Snail Thai Cuisine
Cobb Coffee Shop
School of Social Service Administration (SSA)
A family business, Kikuya serves home-cooked en-
(773) 667-5423, Closed Mon, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
(773) 702-9236, 7:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Mon–Fri, $
Try-Me’s opened this October in the SSA, and is
trees and mochi as well as sushi.
basement, Cobb Hall
run by Lawrence Hall, a nonprofit organization that
1649 East 55th Street
Breakfast, Boxed Food, Coffee
runs programs including job training at the Café for
La Petite Folie
Thai, Vegetarian Options, BYOB, Takeout and De-
This distinctive café screens ’80s films on the be-
(773) 493-1394, Closed Mon, 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m. and
5–11 p.m. Tue–Fri, 5–11 p.m. Sat–Sun, $$$
A common sight in UChicago’s cafés, Snail Thai’s
1504 East 55th Street
offerings have been a staple of Hyde Park cuisine
Ex Libris Café
French, Vegetarian Options
p.m.–Midnight Tue–Wed, Sat, Closed Sun
Takeout and Delivery
American, Vegetarian Options
Thu, 8 a.m.–3 p.m. Fri, Closed Sat–Sun
Sushi, Japanese, Vegetarian Options, BYOB, Take-
A hidden treasure that has even been recognized
Ida Noyes Hall
Assembled by Alex Ward and Hannah Edgar. More
8:30 a.m.–11:30 p.m. Mon–Thu, 8:30 a.m.–5 p.m.
listings available online.
THE CHICAGO MAROON - NOVEMBER 28, 2017
Gone Shopping: Hyde Park Grocers BY HANNAH EDGAR DEPUTY EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
MAY HUANG ARTS EDITOR
You could say we’re living in the golden age of Hyde Park grocery stores: After what many considered a decades-long dearth of grocery options in Hyde Park, the neighborhood now boasts a healthy selection of stores, running the gamut from small businesses to large chains. We profiled four of Hyde Park’s finest purveyors of fruits and vegetables, assessing their strengths and weaknesses.
Treasure Island Once called “the most European supermarket in America” by Julia Child, Chicago-based chain Treasure Island Foods was founded by Christ Kamberos (1926–2009) in 1963. Born into a family of six children with parents who emigrated from Greece, Kamberos was a World War II veteran and avid equestrian. The first Treasure Island Foods opened on 3460 North Broadway Street, before expanding to six other locations, including Hyde Park. Known to many simply as “TI,” the supermarket sells not only produce but also cooking appliances, hygiene products, seasonal decorations, pet food, and more. In terms of variety, TI is the place to be: It sells all kinds of brands, from the bougie to the basic, and is an especially good place to go if you’re shopping for internationally sourced products. It boasts a truly impressive selection of cheeses, candies, granola bars, teas, cereals, and almost any other food item you can think of. Plus, it’s friendly to those with a sweet tooth: TI sells freshly-baked pies (that now, post-Thanksgiving, are happily discounted), Krispy Kreme donuts, and nearly a whole aisle of ice cream options. At the back of the store, where TI serves Julius Meinl coffee, are prepared foods like sushi and warm soup, as well as a seating area for those who decide to eat in the store. When it comes to fruits and veggies, TI is on the expensive side—apples, for example, are usually more than two dollars per pound—but it remains the best place to shop for meat in Hyde Park, with the biggest selection and most reasonable prices (the butchers have also been known to take special requests). TI also offers regular, generous discounts: at the time this writer visited, a gallon of milk that usually sells for $3.29 was selling for $1.98. Shop here if you need a special ingredient for a fancy recipe or if you have the time to browse its myriad options. Pro Tip: Show your UCID at the register during fall quarter to receive a 10 percent discount when you check out. Hyde Park Produce Hyde Park Produce (HPP) moved to its current location in Kimbark Plaza in 2008, but its history runs much deeper. HPP cofounder Lawrence “Yoyo” Damico used to deliver produce to the now-defunct Mr. G’s, which opened in HPP’s current space in 1964 as one of the first tenants of Kimbark Plaza. Later, the space was taken over by the long-standing Hyde Park Co-op, which had multiple locations throughout the neighborhood. Damico’s son, Larry, followed his father into the wholesale produce business. In 1996, he and his father opened their own venture at the current site of The Sit Down, around the corner from Kimbark Plaza: Hyde Park Produce. A devoted neighborhood clientele bolstered the family business, and when the Co-op folded in January 2008, HPP was poised to take its place. Today, HPP is still run by the Damico family, including Larry’s wife, Julie, his sons Larry III and Anthony. Even Yoyo himself stops by, working odd jobs and “doing his
thing,” according to the younger Damico. True to its name, HPP’s strongest point is its wide variety of produce: Stop by for culinary marvels like dragon fruit, Mexican papaya, rambutans, whole stalks of sugarcane, and more varieties of tomatoes, mushrooms, and eggplants than you can count. Helpfully, vegetables are separated into organic and non-organic displays. Offerings outside of produce tend to be a bit thin—HPP’s Achilles’s heel is fresh meat and seafood, with less variety and a comparable, if not higher, price point than its competitors—but should satisfy a no-fuss shopper. Highlights include Sassy Cow Creamery dairy products (HPP is one of only two Chicago-area grocers to carry the brand) and freshly-baked goods from the Medici and other local bakeries. As an Easter egg, check out the deli in the back: It offers a sandwich named after Yoyo, the family patriarch. Pro Tip: Arms full? HPP will deliver straight to your door for just three dollars when you order by phone. Open Produce Affectionately abbreviated as O-Pro, this store is the smallest and perhaps most endearing grocery business in Hyde Park. It was launched on September 24, 2008, by Andrew Cone (A.B. ’06) and Steven Lucy (A.B. ’06), who also owns Cornell Florist and 57th Street Wines. Since 2011, the store has been open until 2 a.m. every day, drawing in a late-night crowd. Don’t let its small-scale interior deter you; almost every corner of the store is stocked with food. O-Pro may not have as many offerings as its competitors, but its selections are eclectic and local: You’ll find stuffed grape leaves, Dutch almond butter cake, persimmons, Bridgeport coffee (with an original O-Pro blend exclusively sold there), locally-made Frönen (an ice cream alternative), Southside Honey Wheat Ale (delivered on bike), and more. There are fewer discounted and bulk items here—although the 20 lb. of rice is certainly an exception—and plenty of their products are sold by the item, as opposed to by the pound: a banana is 40 cents, a round steak is $7.50, and a roll of toilet paper is one dollar. Furthermore, the store prides itself on sourcing locally, organically, and ethically. Cone and Lucy founded O-Pro with the goal of upholding transparency and thus sell many fair trade items. Produce labels come with cute illustrations and captions, such as, “for a fresh start(lett), try a Bartlett!” and “man come, Mango.” Whether you’re looking for a warm and intimate shopping experience or simply searching for a post-midnight snack, O-Pro is the place to go. Pro Tip: Check out the store’s Bargain Bin, which sells bags of “ugly” produce for a buck. Whole Foods Opening in June 2016, Whole Foods is the newest, northernmost, and possibly most contentious addition to Hyde Park’s grocery scene. While some embrace it as a much-needed large grocer serving North Hyde Park and Kenwood, others view it as symbolic of the neighborhood’s ongoing gentrification (it doesn’t help that Whole Foods is part of the ground floor of City Hyde Park, a mixed-use luxury apartment tower). There are definite trade-offs to doing your shopping at the chain pejoratively dubbed “Whole Paycheck.” Amazon’s recent acquisition of the Austin-based grocer did much to slash costs; on the other hand, Whole Foods is now making its offerings more uniform, meaning fewer local vendors will be represented on its shelves. Predictably, Whole Foods’ definite edge is its variety and quality: It boasts a fish counter, meat counter, prepared food section
Hyde Park Produce has been serving the neighborhood since 1996. including sushi and baked goods made onsite, café (with seating), and self-serve options, ranging from nuts and grains to mochi. Its frozen food and snack aisles are similarly epic, with health-conscious options aplenty. In terms of processed food, the price gap between Whole Foods and its local competitors is not as yawning as shoppers might presume. When it comes to fresh produce, however, the difference starts to add up. For most fruits and vegetables, Whole Foods offers both organic and “conventional” options, giving customers some flexibility in terms of pricing. However, in most cases, the “conventional” price is still more expensive than even the organic counterpart of that item at other
grocers. To take a staple example, non-organic honey crisp apples are $2.99/lb at Whole Foods, while HPP offers both non-organic and organic Honeycrisp apples for just $1.49 and $2.79/lb, respectively. Meanwhile, Whole Foods’ high animal welfare standards mean most meat and poultry is organic, and eggs are always cage-free, which bumps up prices. When it comes to these spheres, Whole Foods is ideal for the ethical shopper but not the stingy one. Pro Tip: Whole Foods has a great wine and beer selection, often at student-friendly prices. Keep your eyes peeled for the “Low Price, Great Quality” tag and scour the front of the store for discounted bottles.
A Pit Stop with HP Avocado BY JAMIE EHRLICH SENIOR NEWS EDITOR
If you like making avocado toast, but also want to be able to afford a house one day, look no further than “Hyde Park Avocado,” the premier avocado price index for the Hyde Park area on Twitter. Since its inception, Hyde Park Avocado’s follower base has grown to nearly 450, and users have sent in pictures and reports of the latest avocado prices at local supermarkets like Whole Foods and Hyde Park Produce. We slid into their DMs to get the story behind the account. CHICAGO MAROON: Who are you? Hyde Park Avocado: I am the anonymous hero that avocado-loving millennials need in Hyde Park. I think it’s really funny that I’m this anonymous, neutral-good force that only reports the price of avocados.… It’s really funny to see all these people that I only know from a distance retweeting my tweets and sending me price updates even though we’ve never met in real life. CM: What is the lowest price you’ve seen for avocados in Hyde Park? HPA: The lowest price I’ve seen was two for one dollar at HPP last winter. CM: Why do you run the account? Why did you make it? HPA: Avocado prices fluctuate seasonally pretty aggressively, and I thought it would
be funny to track them. This account predates the avocado toast episode, but I feel like, to some extent, avocados have become a rallying symbol for millennials. This account is also pretty strongly for the memes. CM: What is your favorite way to eat avocados? HPA: I personally don’t even eat avocados that much, but my roommate eats avocado toast on the regular so avocados are still a fairly large part of my life. CM: Why avocados? HPA: [Avocados are] important to the life of almost every college student in Hyde Park, but also important to lots of other people in the area. Someone asked me to branch out to berry prices a while ago, and while I think that’s valuable (and considered starting a sister account), I wanted to focus in on one thing, and I had already chosen avocados. CM: Anything else you want to add? HPA: I wish I had kept a spreadsheet of all the avocado prices so I could make cool visualizations. I like to add flair to the price report (and I think my followers like it too), so in order to mine all the avocado price data out of my tweets I think I would have to do it by hand. If you are interested in staying up to date on avocado pricing in Hyde Park, you can find the account on Twitter at @hpavocadoprice.
THE CHICAGO MAROON - NOVEMBER 28, 2017
A Winter Survival Guide in Three Steps BY ALEX YE MAROON CONTRIBUTOR
It doesn’t need to be winter quarter to feel the winter blues. As the weather gets colder, curling up inside with a hot, home-cooked meal becomes ever more appealing. Only problem? You don’t know the first thing about cooking. Never fear: fourth-year Alex Ye, founder of the student-run supper club Nous, walks us through customizable meat-and-veggies staples. Roll up your sleeves, put on your oven mitts, and get cooking.
MEAT Typically speaking, what makes meat tough is the amount of collagen it contains. If undercooked, this connective tissue makes meat chewy and unpleasant. However, when broken down, it contributes to the succulent, lip-smacking tenderness of favorites like smoked brisket, roasted leg of lamb, and cha shao pork. Cooking these tougher cuts of meat all follow the same formula: Optimal tenderness is an inverse relationship of temperature and duration. Decent results are achievable through a common oven without resorting to more complicated techniques like precision cooking (e.g. sous vide) or pressure cooking. Some cuts you can find at the supermarket include pork belly, pork shoulder, lamb leg, and beef chuck roasts. These tougher cuts tend to be cheaper than their more tender counterparts and require minimal active cooking time. Step 1. Select your meat Generally, fat is your friend. Select your cut based on how much marbling you can find. This will add tenderness to your end product by both increasing moisture through fat and lowering the density that protein is packed together. Aim for size, which tends to be more forgiving for this cooking method. Step 2. Brine (Recommended) Unless you’re aiming for crispy crackling, brine your meat. Water-soluble ingredients like salt and sugar will penetrate and season the flesh. This could be a pure salt brine, or a salt and sugar brine. On a regular basis, there’s no need to follow a strict ratio or recipe. Add peppercorns, citrus zest, or whatever your heart desires. You should brine tougher, redder meats for longer to achieve proper flavor penetration. Step 3. Slow roast or braise When cooking in an oven, your meat’s internal temperature should be anywhere between 140–180ºF. Given the uneven heat distribution of an oven, try to maximize the proportion of your cut that is cooked properly at a collagen-breaking temperature of 160–180ºF for a sufficient amount of time without overcooking the rest. You can do this by setting your oven to its lowest settings, usually around 170–350ºF. Cover or wrap your meat in foil or an enclosed container to minimize water loss. Cook for a minimum of four hours and up to 15 hours—lower temperatures naturally require longer cooking times. From here, you have two options: slow roasting or braising. Slow roasting is the process of cooking your meat at a low temperature without added water. Either covered partially or fully, slow roasting seeks to minimize water loss from the meat while letting fat render and baste the meat. This will yield a texture like a prime rib roast or classic competition slab of pork ribs, featuring some resistance from the remaining, but partially denatured, collagen. (You could also create a baste for your meat, which is a liquid with varying amounts of acid and sugar. This should be applied periodically throughout the process for a glossy, caramelized finish that also inhibits further dehydration of your meat.) Braising involves minimizing moisture loss by adding a flavorful liquid to your meat as it cooks. To make a braising liquid, start by sweating down or caramelizing any combination of garlic, onion, and spices in a pan with your choice of fat, then add anything from stock, wine, and/or beer, scraping up any brown bits at the bottom of your pan. From there, feel free to add any other fresh herbs or spices.
The water within the meat will exchange soluble particles with your braising liquid, imparting both moisture in the form of water and flavor in the form of salt and oils in any spices you add. Braising creates a fall-apart texture, but the braising liquid absorbs dissolved collagen from your cut, rendering it more lean than a slow roast. Again, cover your meat with foil to minimize moisture loss.
PRODUCE Broadly, there are only starchy and watery produce. Roast and mash starchy produce like potatoes, celery root, and butternut squash as a hearty side dish to your hunk of meat, and quickpickle, pansear, or toss watery vegetables in a salad for a crisp contrast. (That being said, who am I to tell you you can’t pickle potatoes—you can, and they’re delicious—or puree celery?) Roasting Step 1: Preparation Cut your produce into bite sized pieces. Opt for irregular shapes for maximum crispiness. You don’t want your pieces so small that they shrivel up into starchy crisps, and you don’t want your pieces so large that they’ll cook unevenly. Step 2: Par-cook Start your starchy vegetables in cold, salted water and bring to a boil, cook until fork-tender. Strain, and toss in a colander so the collisions and friction cause the surface of the pieces to scratch and create more irregularities. This will maximize the areas where fat can cover for a crispier edge. Step 3: Roast Lay aluminum foil on a sheet pan for easy cleanup later. Layer your veggies, cut up some (or a lot) of unsalted butter, and distribute them around the pan. Season with splash of vinegar, salt, and sugar (optional). Add any fresh herbs, garlic, or spice at this time. Roast at 350–400ºF until brown, or about 30–45 minutes. Stir or flip occasionally for maximum color. Mashing Step 1: Preparation Cut root vegetable into even size pieces for even cooking. Size should be about twice that of a roasting cut. Step 2: Par-cook and boil Cook in salted water at 160–175ºF for half an hour. This preserves the integrity of the cell walls of the starchy vegetable to prevent from a waxy consistency. Then, crank the heat up to the highest flame your stovetop has to offer. Cook until fork-tender. Step 3: Mash or puree Whether a fork, potato masher, hand blender, or potato ricer, there is no proper way to obliterate your starch. Rotating blades will tend to break cell walls and yield a more sauce-like puree, while something more rudimentary like potato masher will yield a chunkier, heartier mash.
WATERY PRODUCE Option 1: Quick Pickle On a medium heat, mix vinegar, sugar, salt, and additional optional flavorings to taste. Pour over slices of your vegetable. Wait at least 20 minutes. The thicker you slice, the longer the pickling process takes. Option 2: Pan Sear There are three common types of fat for the pan: neutral oils (grapeseed or peanut oil), olive oil, and saturated fats (like butter or pork fat). If adding garlic and spices, know that they might burn in high temperatures and long durations. Add garlic near the end of your process to prevent an acrid, burnt taste. Generally, fresher spices with more water burn less easily, while their dried and ground versions will burn much quicker. For neutral oils, place into a hot pan before dumping in your vegetables, seasoning simply with salt and cooking until charred and blistered. For olive oil, add to a pan on medium heat, fry some slices of garlic, then quickly sautee thin slices of your vegetables for a quick, simple preparation. Don’t aim for any color, as olive oil tastes unpleasant when cooked harshly. Cooking with butter and pork fat makes this closer to roasting than the previous methods. Maximize brown, crispy bits and heavy, meaty aromas. When cooking in a shared living space, generally don’t heat your fats high enough for them to smoke. I recommend adding butter early at a medium-high temperature, and adding slightly thicker slices of your vegetables once the butter starts to bubble. Cook until blistered, browned, and toasty. Browning in butter occurs when the whey protein in the butter reacts with sugar, creating alluring nutty aromas. Pork fat is similar process. Bring to a high heat just below smoking, and fry your vegetables until a crispy brown crust forms. Pork fat is much more forgiving, so feel free to get the pan ripping hot. It will not brown, since there is no protein to react, but the high heat will blister your veggies and the pork flavor will help season your vegetables. Tip: Add hazelnuts, pine nuts, peanuts, pumpkin seeds and more for a more complex flavor profile. Make sure these have contact with your salt for a lovely textural contrast. Option 3: Salad Slice thinly, dress with vinegar, oil, salt, and other flavorings to taste. But add your ingredients conservatively first—be wary of the acid, salt, and sugar contents of sauces like soy, balsamic, fish sauce, or Worcestershire when seasoning your salad. Seasoning should hardly be an exact science, but understanding the balance between salt, sugar, acid, heat, and aromatics through trial and error is part of the process for both the professional and home cook. The endless interactions between these elements are what make cooking an endless journey of experimentation. Be ready to toss (or eat) your failed creations and take note of what went wrong for next time.
THE CHICAGO MAROON - NOVEMBER 28, 2017
The Spirit of Valois
BY ANANT MASAI & JASON L ALLJEE
Valois has been a cafeteria-style staple in Hyde Park since 1921. Seventeenth Ward Alderman David Moore says that he has been coming to Valois since 1994, often “meeting with other politicians and talking shop,” and is pictured here with Bruce J. Wilson (right), freshman class president at Hampton University. He describes their relationship as mentor-mentee. “He just sent me an e-mail one day and asked for advice on being a politician.” “Being honest with your constituents, communicating with them about the world around them, that’s stuff they appreciate,” he says to Wilson over plates of biscuits and ham.
THE CHICAGO MAROON - NOVEMBER 28, 2017
THE CHICAGO MAROON - NOVEMBER 28, 2017
Eliminating the Shack An Upscale Variation on a South Side Classic Carries Weighted Implications BY RACHEL KIM MAROON CONTRIBUTOR
The city of Atlanta—Georgia’s capital—is what W.E.B. DuBois once described as “south of the North, yet north of the South.” Despite being set apart from other Southern metropolises with the nickname “the city too busy to hate,” Atlanta has always been paradoxical—progressive yet also stereotypically behind-the-times, fast-paced while also slow to change. Atlanta’s Southern cuisine, in the same vein, is deeply rooted in Southern history—from antebellum slavery to black-owned soul food restaurants that acted as meeting places for Civil Rights leaders—while also being central to the city’s attempt in what author John T. Edge called “mainstreaming the South,” of presenting “a not-quiteredeemed South, but a fitfully redeemed South—a South kind of reclaiming its history, staring it down, and now reinterpreting it.” As Atlanta remains one of the most rapidly growing, changing, and gentrifying cities in the last decade, the restaurant entering the fray, positing itself as somewhere in the middle in this cultural shift, is none other than the Chicago South Side’s own Harold’s Chicken Shack. Harold and Hilda Pierce opened the first Harold’s Chicken Shack in 1950 when they realized that fast-food chains avoided opening branches in majority-black neighborhoods. Achieving a local cult following, Harold’s Chicken Shack has long been a bastion of South Side culture, with even Kanye West making his pilgrimage back to the Harold’s on 35th Street earlier this month. Chance the Rapper’s 24th birthday cake had fondant wings and fries dripping in sauce hanging off of it. And even a non-Chicagoan like Kendrick Lamar says he would fly a private jet from Rome to Chicago just for some Harold’s. While Harold’s Chicken Shacks have long and successfully served black communities in Chicago when nobody else did, it is worth noting that they, and other black-owned businesses, were actively discouraged from expanding to the North Side and white communities. “They’d kick my ass out,” Harold Pierce said in an interview for the Reader. As years have passed and times have somewhat changed, Harold’s has expanded to the West Loop and Wicker Park. A nd despite no two Harold’s being the same, they still describe themselves as a “nofrills fried chicken stalwart” or a “no-fuss counter-service institution.” However, the Harold’s Chicken and Ice Bar that opened in June 2012 in Atlanta’s Old Fourth Ward advertises itself as a sports bar and promises a “sit-down environment, complete with a posh cocktail bar and several TV screens.” It was not the Harold’s empire’s only attempt at a sports bar, either: Chicago’s Lincoln Park neighborhood was also once home to Harold’s Bar & Grill before quietly closing in 2014 amid a flurry of negative Yelp reviews. While the Atlanta Harold’s promises to “maintain the delicious traditional flavors of its Chicago ancestors” and kept all of the fried meat and sauce classics, it also added a full array of alcoholic drinks and dishes like egg rolls, buffalo shrimp, jalapeño poppers, and even salads. And unlike the fastfood methodology of the ones in Chicago, Atlanta’s Harold’s also provides live music and nightlife entertainment featuring local DJs and even karaoke nights. “Harold’s Chicken and Ice Bar” is written in curling white font across the top of the store, which
looks more like an upscale boutique than a Shack. According to recent census data, Brookings Institution researcher William Frey found that Southern metropolitan areas such as Atlanta were increasingly home to middle-class, college-educated black migrants in a phenomenon Frey called a “New Great Migration.” According to Frey, black people were, in general, more likely to move to areas in the South compared to white people. In comparison, the Tribune reported that “Chicago itself lost 181,000 black residents between 2000 and 2010”— mostly to the suburbs where there are “lower taxes, more job opportunities, and maybe better-funded school districts.” Furthermore, Chicago has fallen “from seventh place to 21st in the percentage of black households earning at least $100,000.” It is also worth noting that despite the Atlanta metro area having the “greatest numerical gain in black residents of any city area in the U.S.” in 2015, “Fulton County, the county where most of Atlanta sits, has far fewer black residents than Cook County.” Still, Frey’s conclusion that this reverse migration of middle-class black folks was evidence of “the South’s economic growth and modernization [and] its improved race relations” is somewhat hasty and lacks nuance when it coincides with the rampant gentrification of Atlanta’s historically black neighborhoods like the one in which Harold’s Chicken and Ice Bar stands. Located in southeast Atlanta, the Old Fourth Ward now boasts the shiny new $4.8 billion Atlanta Beltline, which is set for a 2030 completion date for 22 miles of “modern streetcar,” 33 miles of biking/walking trails, and 2,000 acres of parks. The trail is lined with greenery, public art installations, murals, and new upscale restaurants. The website boasts that the Beltline is “the most comprehensive transportation and economic development effort ever undertaken in the City of Atlanta and among the largest, most wide-ranging urban redevelopment programs currently underway in the Unit-
ed States.” It was not exaggerating. The Beltline, which is still expanding, has caused the displacement of long-time and low-income Atlanta residents, many of whom are black. The Old Fourth Ward, a historically black neighborhood, is now majority white, and the area’s median income has nearly doubled. Dan Immergluck, an urban studies professor at Georgia State University, predicted that the continuous expansion of the Beltline would lead to the “economic and possibly racial resegregation of the city.” Perhaps the biggest challenge facing Harold’s Chicken and Ice Bar is catering to these changing demographics and maneuvering within the intersections of race and class. Some new-age Southern restaurants attempt this by advertising themselves as “updated,” with “inventive takes on Southern favorites,” and even “Southern-accented.” The Harold’s Chicken and Ice Bar, while certainly appealing to more well-to-do Atlantans, also advertises the transition to a sit-down Atlanta location as a divergence from the ones that must “[stand] behind bulletproof glass windows (a necessity in light of many Harold’s locations in ‘rough’ neighborhoods in Chicago).” This deliberate alienation of the South Side of Chicago in the context of burgeoning gentrification is not unfamiliar, nor is it only used in Atlanta. In 2013, Kristen Pierce, the CEO of Harold’s and daughter of Harold Pierce, told the Chicago SunTimes that she was “trying to eliminate the shack.” While Harold’s locations used to be licensed by individual owners, who could modify the menus and designs all they wanted into what the Sun-Times called “an erratic confederation of restaurants,” Kristen Pierce began opening centralized company-owned locations instead, such as those in Bronzeville, Beverly, and Momence. These boasted bright walls, sleek black tables, and iPads as registers. While these changes are not necessarily unwelcome, Kristen Pierce’s focus on a foundational cultural shift demands closer scru-
tiny. Black and brown Atlantans and Chicagoans have been forced to adapt after unwelcome change for decades. In Harold Pierce’s age, it was the process of block-busting in these two cities that devalued properties with or near black residents, forcing them into certain neighborhoods while white residents fled North and to the suburbs, taking their generational wealth and resources with them. Now, it is the threat of affluent residents moving back into the neighborhoods their ancestors deserted, building safe havens for themselves and, inadvertently or not, sending property rates skyrocketing and expelling the ones who’ve lived there for generations. Like the Beltline, the Obama Presidential Center, set to be built in Jackson Park, brings grave concerns as it is coupled with redevelopments of the surrounding park, golf course, and Wooded Island. With equal amounts of tunnel vision, Mayor Rahm Emanuel and Governor Bruce Rauner quietly submitted a bid for the new Amazon headquarters to be built in Chicago. Atlanta, however, is seen as a front runner for the headquarters and its 50,000 jobs. The change from “Harold’s Chicken Shack” to “Harold’s Chicken” is what Chicago poet Nate Marshall called “Columbus’s flag stuck into a cup of coleslaw.” For some, the word “shack,” he says, “sounds too much like home of poor people, like haven for weary, like building our own.” With two cities buckling under the uncertainties of change, Harold’s Chicken Shack has certainly stood the test of time as a symbol of fortitude and steadfastness, of neighborhoods surviving and flourishing. But when the communities it was built to serve are being pushed out of the city at alarming rates, when the city cannot look the word in the eye and turns its head, it is worth wondering when the burdens of resilience will become too much to bear.
THE CHICAGO MAROON - NOVEMBER 28, 2017
A Jewel-Osco in Woodlawn BY OREN OPPENHEIM MAROON CONTRIBUTOR
This past April, the Chicago chapter of Preservation of Affordable Housing (POAH) capped off a series of redevelopments in Woodlawn with the announcement that a Jewel-Osco supermarket will open in 2019 on the corner of East 61st Street and South Cottage Grove Avenue. Located just south of UChicago, the upcoming 48,000-square-foot store and pharmacy is “expected to create more than 200 jobs,” according to a statement to The Maroon from a representative of Jewel-Osco. According to the supermarket chain’s website, Jewel-Osco currently runs 187 stores throughout Chicagoland, Indiana, and Iowa. More significantly, POAH’s achievement will end Woodlawn’s colloquial status as a food desert. According to the American Nutrition Association, food deserts “are defi ned as parts of the country vapid of fresh fruit, vegetables, and other healthful whole foods, usually found in impoverished areas. This is largely due to a lack of grocery stores, farmers’ markets, and healthy food providers.” A variety of factors, including distance from grocery stores and types of food (e.g. fresh or not) offered at stores, play into what designates an area as a food desert. Woodlawn’s food desert status isn’t exactly clear-cut. A USDA food access atlas defi ned a tract of Woodlawn as a low-income, low–food access area based on data from 2015. A 2013 Progress Illinois feature noted that the accessibility of food retailers meant “by the city’s defi nition,
Woodlawn is not a food desert.… It now has large food retailers, like Save-A-Lot, Aldi, and Walgreens, that most residents can walk to.” However, “these particular chain stores often have infl ated prices and a small selection of often low-quality produce.” According to their mission statement, POAH aims to “preserve, create and sustain affordable, healthy homes that support economic security and access to opportunity for all.” The nonprofit redevelops land, works to secure affordable housing, and offers a variety of financial education resources for Chicago residents. By bringing a full-service Jewel-Osco to the area, POAH hopes to expand the healthy options available in Woodlawn. A Whole Foods that opened last year in Englewood serves a similar purpose. The Jewel-Osco isn’t POAH’s first project in Woodlawn. In a press release announcing the store, the nonprofit mentioned how it “has replaced deteriorating public housing with five new apartment complexes” and was working on developments including the Woodlawn Station, which it describes as a “transit-oriented development,” encompassing 70 mixed-income apartments and 15,000 square feet of retail next to the 63rd and Cottage Grove Green Line station. The nearby MetroSquash—a recreational center with an emphasis on youth programming— is yet another POAH project. In 2011, POAH secured a $30.5 million HUD Choice Neighborhoods Initiative grant for Chicago, which helped fund its partner, Woodlawn Community Center. According to POAH’s Chicago area
Local Produce Beer, Wine & Spirits International Treats
55th and Cornell open 'til 2am
Vice President Bill Eager, POAH’s efforts in Woodlawn are centered around the Grove Parc Plaza apartments, a property that POAH bought in 2008 in poor condition and has since been redeveloping. “One of our goals has been to bring a new grocery store to Woodlawn,” Eager told The Maroon. “The deal to bring Jewel is really something we’ve been working on for several years in fits and starts.” POAH had been talking with other potential grocers without success for years; they came close to inking a deal with Mariano’s until that grocer was sold in 2015. In the first half of 2016, POAH started partnering with commercial developer Leon Walker of DL3 Realty, the developer behind the Whole Foods in Englewood. Walker believed it would be possible to attract Jewel-Osco to the area and formed a joint venture between DL3 and real estate developer Terraco. Eager explains how it all came together, “Jewel [Osco] came on the scene and said that they were very interested… [POAH] put in the land and [DL3 is] going to develop the site; Jewel is going lease it and operate it.” The University of Chicago played a role in the arrival of the Jewel-Osco. While the University and POAH have never collaborated on a development, Eager said the University was “very helpful in getting the grocery store here in terms of signaling to Jewel that that they wanted a new grocery store in their backyard.” Eager further lauded the University’s other developments and investments in Woodlawn, and that it made clear “how important their South Campus is to them
and how important the health of Woodlawn is to its future.” According to Eager, having a full-service grocer such as Jewel-Osco has been a goal of the Woodlawn community for many years, and says that the nonprofit “had always set aside this parcel [on 61st and Cottage Grove]” as the “best potential site for a grocery store.” “One of the things I really like about the [institution of a] grocery store is that it brings commerce to a community. It’s not only going to be there for people who live in Woodlawn, [but will also] bring people from outside of Woodlawn into Woodlawn to spend money and create commercial activity,” Eager said. Eager said that POAH hopes to work with Jewel-Osco to make sure that most of the positions at the store are fi lled by Woodlawn residents.
Courtesy of Jewel-Osco
The store will sit at the northwest corner of East 61st Street and South Cottage Grove Ave.
THE CHICAGO MAROON - NOVEMBER 28, 2017
On a Hyde Park Bar Crawl BY MICHAEL PERRY SPORTS EDITOR
Alumni fondly recall some of their best conversations as undergrads happening not in the seminar room, but in the darkened cocoons of Hyde Park’s bars—and with plenty to choose from, students are at no loss for options. Here, for those newly 21 or new to the neighborhood, we profile a few of Hyde Park’s watering holes, from the new to the old, the trendy to the sticky-floored.
Woodlawn Tap Located at the corner of Woodlawn and 55th Street, Woodlawn Tap, better known simply as Jimmy’s, has long been a staple of both Hyde Park and the University of Chicago since 1948. The bar’s nickname comes from its former owner who ran it for decades before passing away in 1999. While much of the area surrounding the University has been overturned during the past two decades, Jimmy’s has maintained its dive-bar, hole-in-the-wall personality so revered by Chicago locals and University students alike. The food is simple and cheap, and beer is a couple dollars cheaper than any of Jimmy’s competitors. That being said, don’t go here looking for a Budweiser, or any other Anheuser-Busch product for that matter, as they won’t have any due to an alleged contract dispute that has worked its way into Chicago lore. On any given night, one can find the bar full of students, professors, and Hyde Park locals. On Sunday nights, Jimmy’s hosts blues and jazz bands
for live performances. A bar steeped in tradition, Jimmy’s remains unapologetically itself, operating exclusively as a cash-only business. It’s a bar with dim lighting and decades-old furniture that sticks out like a sore thumb in contrast to the next door Starbucks, but it doesn’t really care. As an additional edge over its competitors, Jimmy’s is open until at least 2 a.m. on any given night of the week. 1172 E. 55th Street. Open Sunday– Monday 11 a.m.–2 a.m., Tuesday–Friday 10:30 a.m.–2 a.m., Saturday 11 a.m.–3 a.m. Cash only. The Pub Owned and operated by the same family that has run The Medici since the early 1980s, The Pub is tucked away in the basement of Ida Noyes Hall, oh-so-conveniently next to the M A ROON office (which this writer quite enjoys). On just about every night, The Pub is crowded with people, usually with even more waiting to get in. With a couple of pool tables and televisions, as well as standard booths and stools, it has been a great spot for students and professors alike to escape the overwhelming pressures of university life. As such, The Pub is a private club that offers memberships exclusively to those affiliated with the University, although guests of members are welcome, granted they pay the three dollar entrance fee. The food menu borrows its offerings from the Med menu, so quality is a guarantee. Drinks range from cheap beer and simple mixed drinks all the way to more expensive whiskeys, so Hannah Edgar
Jimmy’s (top) and Jolly Pumpkin (bottom). there is something for everyone (and ever yone’s wa l let). Just l i ke most things affiliated with the University, The Pub has its own well-known tradition: Trivia Night every Tuesday at 8 p.m., with both money and personal pride on the line. Id a Noyes Hall. O pen Mond ay, Thursday–Friday 4 p.m. –1 a.m., Tuesday–Wednesday, Saturday 4 p.m. –midnight, closed on Sunday. Seven Ten Lanes A large establishment with much to offer, Seven Ten has a bar, restaurant, bowling lanes, and billiard tables in a sprawling set of rooms located on 55th Street underneath the Ellis Street parking garage. With a large range of drinks and an even larger food menu, Seven Ten is as great a place to get drinks and play pool with your friends as it is to get dinner with your family. The prices here are not as cheap as what one might find down the street at Jimmy’s, but they are very much standard and nothing to complain about, especially with consistently fast service. With many T Vs, Seven Ten is equal parts sports bar and bowling alley. Perhaps the most f lexible and diverse of all the Hyde Park bars, Seven Ten attracts the widest range of people and age groups on any given night. 1055 E. 55th Street. Open Sunday– Tuesday 11:30 a.m.–midnight, Wednesday–Thursday 11:30 a.m.–1 a.m., Friday–Saturday 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m. Jolly Pumpkin The newest addition to the Hyde Park bar scene, Jolly Pumpkin fills a niche that had been previously untapped with its array of craft beers in
a casual, open setting. The bar recently opened on Harper Avenue just north of 53rd Street. Don’t ask these bartenders for a Bud Light: Jolly Pumpkin serves exclusively crafts (and these bartenders probably wouldn’t want to serve you a Bud Light regardless). Calling Jolly Pumpkin’s food offerings “bar food” would be a gross misnomer. Their menu is filled with unique, gourmet riffs on bar classics; their pizzas in particular are a must-try. The crowd here is much different from Jimmy’s, The Pub, or even Seven Ten: Jolly Pumpkin mostly draws a mix of yuppies and Hyde Parkers, with the odd student group or two thrown in. 5215 S. Harper Avenue. Open Monday–Thursday 11 a.m. –11 p.m., Friday–Saturday 11 a.m.–1 a.m., Sunday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Bar Louie Located a little further from campus on South Shore Drive, Bar Louie is a national chain with locations all over the United States. A very classic bar, Bar Louie has a more modern feel than most other Hyde Park competitors. Again, it features a standard bar food menu, closer to Seven Ten than Jimmy’s. With an outside patio and rotating bar deals, highlighted by one-dollar burgers every Tuesday night, Bar Louie is well worth venturing beyond the immediate University bubble for. 5500 S. Shore Drive. Open Monday –Friday 11 a.m.–2 a.m., Saturday 10 a.m.–3 a.m., Sunday 10 a.m.–2 a.m.
THE CHICAGO MAROON - NOVEMBER 28, 2017
Study Breaks & Other Finals Week Distractions BY ADAM THORP EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
As the daylight shrinks and exams approach, a variety of organizations around campus offer (sometimes tasty) distractions for frantic students. We have collected a sampling here—find more or submit your own at chicagomaroon.com/events.
Tuesday, November 28 M AROON Food Issue Release Party South Lounge, Reynolds Club, 1–3 p.m. Cemitas and Open Produce will cater the launch of this issue of THE M AROON. Wednesday, November 29 Program on the Global Environment Pizza Study Break Gates-Blake 113, noon–1 p.m. Grab pizza with the UChicago Program on the Global Environment, a cluster of environmentally oriented academic programs and events. Arab Student Association Study Break Center for Identity and Inclusion, 3 p.m. The University of Chicago’s Arab Student Association will serve sweets at this study break. Glitter, Sprinkles, and Service, Oh My! Hillel, 4–7 p.m. Join Hillel to enjoy latkes, applesauce, and sugar cookies, and to put together holiday cards for residents at Jewish retirement homes across Chicagoland. Mural: Fall 2017 Release Party Harper Memorial Library 135, 6–7 p.m. Mural, a bilingual Spanish-English magazine produced by University of Chicago
students, releases its issue for Otoño 2017, titled “¡Revolución!” Light snacks and refreshments will be provided. Muslim Student Association Study Break Center for Identity and Inclusion, 6–9 p.m. Eat pizza and socialize at this event, hosted by the Muslim Student Association. Bite Magazine Launch Party McCormick Tribune Lounge, Reynolds Club, 6:30 p.m. The University’s student-run food magazine puts out its Fall issue. Thursday, November 30 Study at the Rock Rockefeller Memorial Chapel, 10 a.m.–3 p.m. This hours-long study session is one of a series open to University of Chicago students in unusual venues over the course of reading period. Coffee, tea, and pastries will be served. Study Break With Chipotle Center for College Student Success, 5:30–7 p.m. The Center for College Student Success offers a Chipotle-catered study break as reading period kicks off. Institute of Politics Student Holiday Party Institute of Politics, 6–9 p.m. The Student Advisory Board of the Institute of Politics invites students over for snacks and hot chocolate. A photo booth will be available to visitors. Comfort Food for Finals McCormick Tribune Lounge, Reynolds Club, 9–10 p.m. Lutheran Campus Ministry serves macaroni and cheese to hungry college students.
Study at the Smart Smart Museum, 9 p.m.–midnight One of a series of study sessions open to University of Chicago students in unusual venues over the course of reading period, students who choose to study amid the Smart Museum’s exhibits will be provided with coffee, pizza, and borscht alongside other study necessities. Friday, December 1 Cookie Decorating at Vanille Patisserie Vanille Patisserie, 5229 South Harper Court, 11 a.m.–5 p.m. The soon-to-open Vanille Patisserie offers a preview with a free, six-hour cookie decorating session as part of Hyde Park Holly-Day. Reactions: New Perspectives on Our Nuclear Age, Day 1 Reynolds Club, 1:30–7 p.m. A series of talks, panels, and artistic events mark the approach of the 75th anniversary of the first sustained human created nuclear reaction at the University of Chicago. RSVP online. Study at the Logan Center Logan Center, 9 p.m.–midnight Free food and coffee will be provided to students who attend this study session at the Logan Center for the Arts. Saturday, December 2 Reaction: New Perspectives on Our Nuclear Age, Day 2 William Eckhardt Research Center, Regenstein Library 122, McCormick Tribune Lounge, and Mandel Hall, 2:30–9:30 p.m. A series of performances and lectures mark the 75th anniversary of the first sustained, man-made nuclear reaction.
Lindy’s Chili & Gertie’s Ice Cream in McKinley Park is a Southwest Side stalwart.
BY KATIE MCPOLIN BITE CONTRIBUTOR
At 10:15 on a Monday morning, we headed for Lindy’s Chili and Gertie’s Ice Cream. Lindy’s has been a standby on the southwest side, since 1924. They open early, close late, and close even later on nights when the Bears play. Lindy’s has an honest white facade, and despite a recent remodel it boasts no shiny glass paneling or rooftop beer garden. In classic Chicago fashion, it was clear that we were in for a nofrills, no-nonsense meal. A dog walker
across the street looks on, bemused, as we hunted for an entrance. We lapped the building and finally find our way in, where a little wooden sign welcomed us. Lindy’s dining area is a kitschy, well-loved room, with a small bar and a collage of wooden signs and glowing placards on every wall. Black and white photos of the original counter hearken back to the early days of “Chicago’s Oldest Chili Parlor.” Our photographer, Kathryn, was reminded of the diners her family frequented on their road trip down Route 66. We ordered coffee and settled in, emotionally preparing for our breakfast
of champions. Much to our surprise, the room filled up—a mother and her young son headed to school, suits on an early lunch break, construction workers from down the block all perched on a bench to wait for their takeout. We ordered a smorgasbord of greasy, starchy delights: onion rings, jalapeño poppers, tamales, and sticky loaded fries, as well as a crock of chili to share. Lindy’s also has a wide selection beyond appetizers including burgers, sausages, and sandwiches. These were honestly the best onion rings I have ever had, and though I felt a little sick after inhaling four or five jala-
Ransom Notes + Native Foods Fundraiser Native Foods Hyde Park, 4–9 p.m. Come join members of the Ransom Notes to enjoy black bean nachos and Buddha bowls for this fundraiser, held in partnership with Hyde Park’s Native Foods Café. Mention the Ransom Notes and 20 percent of the price of your purchases will go to support their winter tour of South Chicago public schools. Holiday Java Jive and Balboa Night Ida Noyes Hall, 7:30–11 p.m. Come to dance fast-paced Balboa steps with the Chicago Swing Dance Society. Monday, December 4 Pre-Chanukah Study Break Chabad House, 8:30–10 p.m. Chabad hosts this exam week study break; homemade French toast and latkes will be served. Wednesday, December 6 Run to the Bean From UChicago Lakeshore Trail, 9 a.m.–1 p.m. Suddenly stress-free students run from campus to the Bean, get lunch, and travel back via CTA. Sunday, December 10 Pipes for the Season Rockefeller Memorial Chapel, 5–6 p.m. University organist Thomas Weisflog performs Samuel Barber’s “Silent Night,” J.S. Bach’s “Wachet Auf,” and Marcel Dupré’s Variations on “Adeste Fideles” alongside third-year Bryan McGuiggin. Hot cider will be served.
peño poppers, I have no regrets. By the time we polished off our fried feast and stacked our plates, the chili was ready. Chili is an ideal Chicago food—it’s hot, fi lling, and you can put it on anything. Lindy’s namesake chili is exactly what you want it to be: thick without being sticky, heavy enough to comfort you on the walk home in the wind and snow, and, most importantly, generously portioned. We ended up taking most of it home (it gets better if you heat it up the next day). Gertie’s Ice Cream is well-known for elaborate sundaes and ice cream floats. Kathryn ordered a strawberry soda with vanilla ice cream. I decided on a Green River phosphate, which is like a regular soda, but sour (like a carbonated Gatorade). The strawberry ice cream soda is phenomenal—sweet and rich, with massive scoops of soft ice cream. Loaded up with takeout that will feed us for the next week, lunchtime was only starting when we headed out. I almost can’t wait for winter—I will definitely be back for a crock of chili and a plate of onion rings to eat while watching the snow fall on McKinley Park. Bite is a quarterly food publication that provides recipes, restaurant reviews, cooking tips, student spotlights, and more. Read more in their Fall 2017 issue, out Wednesday, November 29. Attend their launch party Wednesday, November 29, 6:30 p.m. in the McCormick Tribune Lounge in the Reynolds Club.
THE CHICAGO MAROON - NOVEMBER 28, 2017
University Hospital Patient Information Was Potentially Vulnerable to Hackers BY EUIRIM CHOI MANAGING EDITOR
University of Chicago hospital patient information was potentially vulnerable to hackers due to weaknesses in the University’s network, a MAROON investigation revealed. Experts suspect that vulnerabilities like these are likely to be found at many hospitals, universities, and institutions around the world. The weeks-long investigation, encompassing a manual review of tens of thousands of lines of network scan logs, interviews with sources who have explored the University’s network, and conversations with multiple cybersecurity experts, found that networked printers accessible by anyone on the University network were being used to print what seemed to be sensitive health documents, like organ donation logs, surgery face sheets, prescriptions, and even medical records, some of which may have been protected by federal law. Researchers have shown that documents printed on printers like these are vulnerable to being remotely stolen by hackers relatively easily. Other printers were found to be printing sensitive administrative documents, including University financial information, University of Chicago Police Department (UCPD) operations plans, and what appear to be suspect reports. Anybody online, including people without access to the University’s network, could connect to these printers. Other “Internet of Things” (IoT) devices (physical devices with network connectivity), including cameras, sensors, and even appliances, were discovered to have been left accessible and sometimes controllable. These include several of the Oriental Institute’s cameras, likely meant for security monitoring, which potentially could have been shut
off via an online control panel not protected by a password. The University released a statement last week in response to THE MAROON’s findings. “The University conducted an analysis of the information reported by THE MAROON, and based on the investigation, has not found any indication that any protected health information could be publicly accessed. The University will continue its investigation of the matter,” it read. “When the University finds an instance where private information has been breached or disclosed, it begins a process to determine if a notification to the affected population is warranted. Aside from such instances, to safeguard the institution and members of the UChicago community, it is the general practice of the University not to comment on any specific findings, legal conclusions, or remediation steps.” When asked repeatedly whether “publicly accessed” meant publicly accessible to the general public or more specifically accessible to a person with some technical expertise, Assistant Vice President of Communications Jeremy Manier declined to elaborate and deferred to the original statement. At the time of publication, some, but not all, of the vulnerabilities identified by THE MAROON appear to have been addressed. About a month ago, an individual, who wished to remain anonymous for fear of retribution, was contacted by THE MAROON after privately saying that they had made some interesting observations after scanning one section of the University network with a free program widely used by both hackers and security professionals. The scan, a potential violation of the University’s network acceptable use policy, identified all the electronic devices accessible on one segment of the University network. This source, upon request, provided
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BA S S
A matinée performance of Handel’s Messiah S U N DAY D E C E M B E R 3 | 3 P M | R O C K E F E L L E R C H A P E L A beloved Rockefeller tradition since 1928! James Kallembach conducts the combined choral forces of the ROCKEFELLER CHAPEL CHOIR, MOTET CHOIR, and members of CHICAGO MEN’S A CAPPELLA Tickets $55 chancel, $25 nave and balconies at tickets.uchicago.edu Limited free tickets for students also available 5850 S. WOODLAWN AVE ., CHICAGO, IL 60637
the logs generated by the program for verification. After an analysis of the logs both confirmed many of the original source’s claims and uncovered new vulnerabilities, THE MAROON consulted University professors Ariel Feldman and Ben Zhao, experts in computer and network security respectively, to better assess the gravity and legitimacy of the findings. On November 3, THE MAROON informed the University’s Information Technology Services (ITS) about the vulnerabilities, in order to provide the University with a reasonable amount of time to make the necessary fixes prior to publication. It was then that the University opened an investigation. Shortly afterward, the original source admitted to ITS that they had scanned the network, and the individual was formally summoned to the Office of the Dean of Students. “The privacy and security of University information always has and continues to be of the highest priority,” the University said in its statement. “As such, the University has a robust security program that is continually tested and supervised. As with most large organizations, occasionally the University’s Information Security office receives reports of potential network, system, or service security concerns. In such cases, the reports are quickly reviewed and investigated and any security concerns that are uncovered are remediated.” Printers, an unlikely threat Printers have often been neglected in security considerations, with many otherwise security-conscious users not fully comprehending the capabilities of these devices. “Just like almost every other electronic device these days, it’s really a little computer, with a general purpose processor running software,” Feldman said. “So if an attacker can exploit vulnerabilities in that software, they can potentially hijack the device and make it run functionality that was not intended to run.” This neglect has showed, with the printers of many organizations recently being readily exploited by even amateur hackers. In March of last year, Andrew Auernheimer, a selfstyled “hacktivist” claiming to combat what he views as “white genocide,” forced thousands of network-connected printers, including those at Princeton University and the University of California, Berkeley, to print out flyers covered in swastikas and anti-Semitic messages. Earlier this year, a high school student hacked around 150,000 insecure printers worldwide to supposedly “raise everyone’s awareness towards the dangers of leaving printers exposed online without a firewall or other security settings enabled.” The University may also have encountered problems. The original source reported seeing some printers with unusual, provocative names suggesting that they had been hacked, though THE MAROON could not verify the claims. Researchers have warned that this neglect could be further exploited, arguing that documents being printed, scanned, or copied could also be stolen by malicious actors. In 2012, Columbia University researchers successfully hacked an HP printer and installed malicious software, potentially allowing an adversary to cause the printer to crash and leak out confidential data. Earlier this year, Ph.D. candidate Jens Müller and his colleagues at Ruhr University Bochum demonstrated that documents could be stolen or modified from several common office network printers by exploiting long-known vulnerabilities or features of ubiquitous printer programming languages like PostScript and PCL. Attackers can find the IP addresses of these printers by simply scanning a network, as the original source did. Remote printer document theft is a problem when the documents involved contain information intended to be kept private, which
seemed to be the case on multiple University printers. THE MAROON found several printers connected to the local network or the broader Internet that had web interfaces and control panels accessible via any browser. Probably unbeknownst to the printers’ users, these interfaces often had unprotected logs detailing print job history—including filenames (e.g. habs_tickets.pdf), the date and time when the document was printed, and people’s usernames—going back a few days. One expert told The Maroon it would be reasonable to assume that these files were vulnerable to theft. Several file names suggested that the file contents being printed were sensitive. Multiple printers were found to be regularly printing files and flowsheets from software from Epic Systems, a healthcare software company that provides, among other things, electronic solutions for storing medical records. Other files were named “Donor Summary for ***** *****,” with the names redacted by the file owner. One registered nurse printed files called “MRI Abdomen.pdf,” “Colonoscopy.pdf,” and “Mammogram.pdf”; another printer had a file name that even included the words “IME set and medical records enclosed,” where IME most likely stands for “Independent Medical Examination.” In one case, a file name seemed to violate an individual’s privacy all on its own. It included a first name and the words “Topical Pain Rx Form - Ashland Pharmacy,” with Rx a shorthand for prescription, indicating that the file likely contained a prescription for topical pain medication for the individual named. THE MAROON found two other cases where a patient’s name appeared to have been included in the file name. All the printers found to be used to print potentially sensitive health information were only accessible on the University network, meaning that they were in an ideal scenario, only accessible by students, faculty, and some staff with CNET IDs. If they contained prescriptions, medical records, and other patient information, these documents could be protected under the Health Insurance Portability and Accountability Act of 1996, a law that mandates that, among other things, hospitals “must put in place safeguards to protect your health information and ensure they do not use or disclose your health information improperly.” Apart from documents containing patient information, a review of logs showed that potentially sensitive administrative documents were printed on printers from multiple divisions. These documents included faculty retention letters and financial updates, including medical staff revenues and surgery funds flows. A UCPD printer, now taken down by the University, was also publicly available; logs showed that it was used to print an operations plan for recent bike thefts, a document labeled “Snell Hitchcock and Bartlett Person of Interes[t],” a file titled “UCPD Arrest Checklist,” and multiple items named “Incident Image.” All these findings were obtained from examining the relevant printers for only a couple of weeks due to the time-limited nature of the print job history logs. The printers themselves were located in one section of the University network, as THE MAROON’S source did not provide network scan logs of the University’s other IP address ranges, including that of UC Hospital System. As to whether the contents of the files themselves were vulnerable, Müller told THE MAROON that he had directly tested a Xerox ColorQube printer and found that he could read its memory and steal printed documents. He admitted, however, that it may not have been the exact model identified by THE MAROON, and that many other printer models found on the University network had not been tested. THE MAROON was unable to check whether Continued on page 16
THE CHICAGO MAROON - NOVEMBER 28, 2017
Est. 1856? Why Organizers Say U of C Owes Reparations
Courtesy of University of Chicago Special Collections
The main building of the Old University of Chicago was named Douglas Hall in memory of Stephen A. Douglas, who donated the land at 34th Street and Cottage Grove Avenue for the Old University.
BY JASON LALLJEE NEWS REPORTER
“ There is no Hyde Park without Bronzeville,” insisted Guy Emerson Mount, teaching fellow in the social sciences and a member of the Reparations at UChicago Working Group (RAUC). The group will take part in a “Rally for Reparations” held today by the National Coalition of Blacks for Reparations in America (N’COBRA), “calling upon the University of Chicago to make amends for its founding ties to slavery.” The “ties” refer to those touted in a paper published by the RAUC this past May asserting that the University of Chicago would not exist today if not for the original land endowment of Illinois politician Stephen Douglas. The Old University of Chicago, which the University considers a separate entity from the current one, was established in 1856. The RAUC’s paper documents the importance of Douglas to the University. Douglas used profits from his slave plantation in Mississippi to purchase land that was donated to the original University of Chicago campus in Bronzeville, for which he served as the first president of the board of trustees. The University now uses 1890 as the date of its founding, referring to the establishment of the current location in Hyde Park. The University denies any direct relationship between Douglas and the current campus, and emphasized the distinction between the current and Bronzeville campuses. A spokesman told THE MAROON that “the current University of Chicago, founded in 1890, had no financial or legal relationship with the ‘first’ University of Chicago, which was founded in 1856–57 and collapsed in 1886 in a state of debt and foreclosure.” N’COBRA demands that the University change its official founding date to that of the Old University and plans to establish a “truth and reconciliation committee that would produce a comprehensive reparations program.” After the rally, N’COBRA will hold a press conference at City Hall, coinciding with their submission of an open letter requesting that the city cancel all of its business agreements with the University, in accordance with the 2002 Slavery Era Disclosure Ordinance, a city law that requires
all companies conducting business with the City of Chicago to disclose their records on slave policies. N’COBRA will request that the City of Chicago void all its contracts with the University until it complies with the ordinance and addresses the RAUC’s demands. The contracts include stipulations for the University’s collaboration with the University-hosted Obama Presidential Center, as well as its existing contract with the University of Chicago Police Department. “I definitely feel like the information coming out about Stephen Douglas will be effective in pushes for reparations,” said Kamm Howard, National Male Co-Chair of N’COBRA. “You can’t look at families with historical wealth without finding links to enslavement…. You have these institutions and people affiliated with these institutions today who are benefitting from them.” “[N’COBRA] is calling upon the University of Chicago, the City of Chicago, and Barack and Michelle Obama to meet our demands to engage in a process of reparative and transformative justice with the descendants of the enslaved and the broader community on the South Side,” Mount said, implicating the former president and first lady through their involvement with the University in building the Obama Presidential Center in Jackson Park. “The new university did not use or benefit from the former university’s land or its endowment,” the University spokesman said in their statement. The RAUC’s paper, however, cites Dean of the College John Boyer, who states in The University of Chicago: A History that the Hyde Park and Bronzeville campuses shared an overlapping network of donors and faculty; the RAUC argues that this network, as well as a legitimacy that carried over from Bronzeville’s campus to Hyde Park’s, makes the legacy of the two inextricable. The group’s investigation into the University’s relationship with slavery echoes similar ones transpiring at dozens of universities throughout the country, including Harvard, Princeton, and Yale. At Georgetown University, a sale of 272 slaves in 1838 kept the institution from sinking into debt; in an attempt to acknowledge its past, the school’s president, John
DeGioia, announced measures that included creating an institute for the study of slavery, as well as erecting a public memorial to the slaves who were sold to keep the university, which was at the time deeply in debt, afloat. “One thing I admire is that [at Georgetown] they have really framed this in a moral context,” Mount said. “You have the president of Georgetown, a religiously-based institution, standing up and saying this is a sin that needs to be atoned for. That’s something we may not get to at these other universities, and I admire that.” A rally for racial justice led by student activists last month highlighted information publicized by the RAUC’s paper, with speakers from student and faculty organizations at the rally calling attention to the University’s unaddressed relationship with Douglas.
Some community leaders and student representatives view the drafting and signing of a community benefits agreement (CBA)—a contract between a real estate developer and community groups that requires the developer to provide certain amenities to the community— before the construction of the Obama Presidential Center as a potential first step for reparations. “Ultimately, we would like three parties to sign the CBA: the Obama Foundation, the University of Chicago, and Alderman Leslie Hairston,” said fourth-year Robert Hayes, a member of UChicago for a Community Benefits Agreement. “One of the main reasons for the CBA is the idea of equitable development, the idea that residents should share some of the prosperity [the center] is going to bring to the South Side…. That’s why a CBA would include protection for affordable housing, as well as preferences for local hiring.” Mount feels that a CBA would operate as a preemptive measure against potential damages to the community. “A CBA is saying, ‘let’s see if we can have enough benefits to the community that we can offset the harm that will be done,’” he said. Hayes feels that signing a CBA would make the University accountable for promises it makes regarding local hiring and affordable housing, referencing the 2001 agreement between the Los Angeles Sports Entertainment District and community organizations as a model of a CBA that was executed well. “It can be done and be done inclusively,” he said. “[A CBA] brings community members to the table and says, ‘You deserve a voice in this process.’” “Every faculty member and student and donor at the University of Chicago is benefitting from that historical crime,” he added. “There’s a responsibility on every entity at the University to remove the criminal mantle from itself, and the only way to do that is to [make reparations] with the Hyde Park community, with the Bronzeville community, with the Woodlawn community in particular.” “[To address] history wouldn’t damn the University or curse it for all eternity,” said Mount. “Everyone has a past, everyone has a history.… Institutions that are honest about it, that tell the truth, try best to right the wrongs that they’ve done.”
The Reparations at UChicago Working Group rallied for racial justice in early October.
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THE CHICAGO MAROON - NOVEMBER 28, 2017
â€œThereâ€™s always room for improvement.â€? Continued from page 14
these printers were vulnerable using PRET due to ethical considerations, but documentation from manufacturers showed that many of the printer models found on the University network commonly supported PCL and PostScript. PostScript is â€œby design,â€? and in his experience, vulnerable to remote document theft attacks, MĂźller said. Either way, MĂźller suggested that it was reasonable to just assume that printers were vulnerable. â€œFrom all we know, anyone with a decent knowledge and the right tools can break into printers and steal documents if the device is accessible on the network level,â€? he said. MĂźller also noted that print job theft was not the only concern plaguing Internet-connected printers. â€œThere may be other kinds of attacks besides direct access to print jobs, like denial of service, accessing the printerâ€™s file system or memory, or simply printing a lot of copies or accessing the fax on [multifunction printers]. So, to cut a long story short: Printers really should not be put on the public Internet,â€? he said. Feldman agreed that restricting printer access to people logged on to the University network is more secure, but added that this isnâ€™t a panacea. â€œAn attacker could take over a machine on campus,â€? he said, and gain access to the University network. Furthermore, â€œuniversity networks tend to be more open. Itâ€™s probably pretty easy to be granted permission to be on the University network.â€? â€œThere are lots of visitors going in and out of the University at a time, there are lots of outside collaborators,â€? Feldman said. â€œItâ€™s not really an environment where you can impose tight control.â€?
Other IoT devices like cameras, accessible and controllable Apart from printers, several cameras had their video feeds visible to anyone on the Internet. Most of these cameras were positioned outdoors or near entrances, such as in front of the Regenstein and Crerar Libraries and overlooking the science quad. Though it was unclear whether these camera feeds were meant to be public, an anonymous source who had scanned the network said that they had noticed that the cameras were, in some cases, only guarded by default passwords set by the manufacturer, which are freely available in online databases. Entering a default password would thus allow any individual to remotely control the camera. THE MAROON was unable to verify this sourceâ€™s claim due to ethical considerations. In the case of the Oriental Institute (OI), the camera feeds appeared to be inaccessible, but a couple of control panels possibly controlling some of its Internet-connected cameras were publicly available. Each control panel, which may or may not have been connected to an active camera, potentially allowed an individual to change the settings of a camera without a password so that its feed could be manipulated or even made inaccessible, effectively shutting it off. The purpose of the OI cameras potentially linked to the control panels could not be definitively determined. The panels indicated, however, that the cameras were likely manufactured by Shenzhen Sricctv Technology, a Chinese company that makes IP cameras meant for video security monitoring. After being notified by THE MAROON of these control panels, the University quickly made these panels inaccessible. Its reasons for doing so were not given on the record.
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Many other IoT devices, such as temperature sensors, were also publicly accessible on the University network. In one case, another source, who wished to remain anonymous for fear of retribution, also scanned the University network and reported finding a coffeemaker that they could control to remotely brew coffee. Like printers, these devices, when accessible on the public Internet, are easily exploited. Hackers can scan the entire Internet using widely available programs to find vulnerable IoT devices and exploit vulnerabilities to hack them. These devices then commonly become part of what are known as botnetsâ€”groups of Internet-connected devices controlled by a single actor. These botnets are usually used by cybercriminals and government-sponsored organizations to send spam and perform distributed denial-of-service (DDoS) attacks, such as when the Mirai botnet rendered major sites like Twitter, Netflix, and Reddit inaccessible after successfully taking down the Domain Name System provider Dyn. While THE MAROON could not verify whether the devices themselves were compromised due to ethical and legal restrictions, it did find what appeared to be a hacked Windows server used to control IoT devices, among other things, which automatically tried to download and install multiple computer viruses on any connected victim machine. One of the viruses would turn a compatible victim machine into a miner for the cryptocurrency Bitcoin, which is another use-case for botnets. Like with printers, many of these threats can be reduced by only providing access to these devices to users on the University network. The challenges of university network security Both Feldman and Zhao said that vulner-
abilities with printers and other IoT devices like cameras were likely to be common at other organizations across the country and the world. Feldman also noted that university networks are particularly challenging to secure, as they are open, permissive, and also decentralized. â€œITS has a very difficult job,â€? Feldman said. â€œThere are many different organizational units within a universityâ€Ś. Faculty donâ€™t like getting told what to do and have a degree of independence from the central administration that regular employees of a company wouldnâ€™t have.â€? Because of this independence, it is difficult, if not impossible, for ITS to assign technological equipment to faculty members that they could easily secure, Feldman said. ITS has to figure out ways to secure many different technologies, whereas companies often restrict technology options to make device security more manageable. â€œItâ€™s just a difficult balancing act. It would be much easier if there [were] an all-powerful IT administrator who could tell everyone what to do,â€? Feldman said. With the rise of IoT devices, university IT departments must secure even more devices, a process that is made more difficult by the open and decentralized nature of university networks. When asked whether the tradeoff of having a more permissive, decentralized network over a more secure one was worth it, Feldman said it probably was. â€œThere are very good reasons why universities are open and decentralized, and I donâ€™t think that trying to impose centralized control in IT or other areas is likely to be successful or desirable,â€? he said. â€œThat said, thereâ€™s always room for improvement.â€?