cedar greenhouse assembly instructions

The growhouse cedar greenhouse assembly instructions.

The base onto which your greenhouse is to be positioned base must be absolutely square and level. This is confirmed as shown in appendix (appendix Base Plan). An uneven foundation will lead to frustrating delays and subsequent disappointment.

1. The gable ends, i.e. the door and plain end have a groove in the corner post to accept a tongue on the side panel. (Figure 2) Take an adjoining panel ensuring that the sash window casement stay is positioned on the inside and push the tongue on the side panel into the groove on the corner post, lifting the side panel until it meets the top end of the groove on the gable end.

Figure 2.

Side Panel

Corner post

Front end.

Fix the post and side together using four type A screws into the pre-drilled holes in the side panel upright. When screwing these panels grip the two pieces of cedar together so that when the screw is fully tightened there is no gap seen between the two faces.

2. Repeat the instructions by fixing the opposite side panel to the other post on the same gable end thus creating a ‘U’ shaped structure.

3. The last side of the structure i.e. the remaining gable end is now attached by pushing the tongues on the side panel uprights into the grooves of the gable end corner posts. Once again, gripping the cedar uprights tightly together, screw the upright and corner posts together using four type A screws into the predrilled holes.

4. The ridge board is positioned with the L shaped brackets between the two pre-marked lines on the inside face of the support block. Fix brackets using screw type P. 5. For your convenience the roof assembly has been separated into packs : Pack A x 2

– the roof light assembly.

Pack B

– roof rafters.

To assemble the contents of pack A select the cross member and insert the tennons on each end into the mortices (slots) of the roof rafters (see photograph.) Once assembled fix cross member in place at each end using two screw type A through the pre-drilled holes in the roof rafters.

Locate second pack A as shown on complete pack A & B plan.

6.

The roof light assembly can now be positioned. The lower square end of the roof spars will be located in the slots on the top edge of the side panel, the aluminium plates sitting flush to the inside face of the side panel. The top angled end of the roof spars with the aluminium plates attached rest against the ridge board and the aluminium plate locates into a groove machined along the length of the structure.

See pack A and photographs. To ensure that the distance between the roof rafters is correct we supply two spacers – these are used to help you measure accurately that the distance at the ridge is identical to the distance at the eaves. The two roof rafters of Pack A can be secured at the top and bottom as photographed using E type screws. The Pack B roof spars can now be positioned and secured in the same way as pack A using the relevant spacers to ensure the correct positioning.

Pack A

Pack A & B

Spacer positions.

Complete pack A & B

Eaves aluminium plate

ridge aluminium plate.

7. Check the structure for square by measuring between the diagonals. This measurement should be equal. If it is not square and level it is possible that the glass will not fit or that the glass will shatter as a result of strain being placed upon it.

8. Taking the black sticky pads secure one over each screw head on the top outside edge of the curtain wall. These will help to cushion the glass when glazing. See photograph.

9. The aluminium glass stop brackets can now be secured using 2 no. screw type Q. The top edge of the bracket should sit flush with the inside edge of the side panel. See photo.

Sticky pad and aluminium glass stop.

10. The roof section should be glazed first. Starting at the ends select the 4 panes (579mm wide) which are located one at each corner of the roof. Slide each pane up the rebates cut into the rafters and into the groove on the ridge board. When fully past the glass stop brackets lower the pane down carefully so that it fits neatly against the upstand on the glass stop bracket. Next fit the capping (1133mm on the

“eight” house or 1483mm on the “ten” house) onto the four end roof rafters. The rebate of the capping fitting neatly over the roof rafter ensuring that the mitred end of the capping is pushed firmly up against the ridge board. Fix using screw type E through the pre-drilled holes in the capping. We recommend that the capping at the gable ends are fitted from step ladders from outside the greenhouse to avoid stretching unnecessarily. Choosing the 545mm wide glass work along the greenhouse until you reach the vent position securing capping as you progress until you reach the vent position. To avoid stretching you should now secure the cappings from stepladders inside the structure as you work along.

11. Now fit the two 530mm cappings, one on either side of the pack A roof light assembly. These are mitred at both ends. The upper mitre is pushed flush with the ridge board. These can then be secured like the standard roof capping using screw type E as photographed.

12. Locate the roof vent tight against the underside of the lip of the ridge board (hinges uppermost) by leaning through the unglazed aperture beneath the vent position. The vent should overhang the short roof cappings previously fitted equally on both sides. Once you have the vent centrally positioned it can be fixed from the outside through the pre-drilled holes in the hinge support member using four screw type P. See Photo.

13. The glass under the vent can now be fitted pushing it up into the cross member groove and over the glass stop bracket. Finally secure the remaining capping (613mm for the “eight” house or 963mm for the “ten” house) that are mitred at the top to match the mitre on the upper capping previously fitted.

14. To secure the base use a 9mm hss (high speed steel) standard length, multi purpose drill, drilling through the timber base rail. For the base use an 8mm x 150mm (6inch) masonary drill to a depth of 110mm (from the top of the wood) into the foundation. Position your hole centrally on the gently sloping part of the base rail in the middle of the base glazing bays on either side of each corner of the greenhouse unless this coincides with a joint in your base. If so, move the hole to a stronger position.

On the larger structure you may also opt to put a fixing in the middle glazing bay central down each side. Push the 50mm rawplug into the full depth of the hole inserting the type J stainless steel screw and washer. Do not tighten the screws at this stage.

Note: The gable ends and the side panels have the glass securing cappings pre-fitted and secured with two screws which are to be re-used. This is for ease of transport. These cappings should be removed prior to glazing. Note where the cappings are removed from as they will be required for reassembly.

15. The sides can now be glazed.(other than opening lights which are pre-glazed) starting once again from the plain end select a 545mm x 1410mm pane and insert it into the panel pushing the top edge of the glass up into the glazing slot in the top rail and then lowering it to rest on the bottom rail pushing it firmly inwards to ensure it does not slip out . This pane is now secured on the edge nearest the corner post using of the narrow capping previously removed.. Ensuring it is pushed up tight against the head section the capping is fixed by using the type E screws into the pre-drilled holes. Repeat this exercise along each side. Where there is a pre-installed opening light the sash must be held open to allow the capping to be fitted. The glass under the vent can be fitted using the same method unless you have opted to fit a louvre vent. In each case the cedar capping is used to secure both in place.

16. Glazing the door end will require two people. Remove the door head capping (which is secured with three screws) and fit the shaped glass above the door. One person to push the glass up into the rebate and hold it there whilst the other refits the door head capping in exactly the same position as previously removed (Once refitted the glass can not fall out.) Next fit the rectangular pane on one side of the door in the same manner as the side glass, one person can hold this whilst the other selects the right angled pane to go above it. Secure in place at each side with the cappings previously removed. Repeat on other side.

The plain end is glazed in the same manner, like the door end it is necessary to remove the apex capping piece (secured with three screws) to fit the central peak pane first.

16. The aluminium door runner is now fitted. Line up the bottom edge of the runner with bottom edge of the transome. The end of the runner should be aligned with the outside edge of the capping on the left hand side of the door opening. It is fixed in 4 places using screw type P through the predrilled holes in the runner.

17. The door bottom guide, identified as being a mill finish U shaped channel, is attached to the door end as photographed. The underside of the U-shaped channel to sit flush with the underside of the structure. It is fixed with three screws attached to the guide through the predrilled holes in the channel.

The middle fixing lines up with the centre of the door end upright. See photograph.

middle fixing aligns with upright

channel flush with underside of gable

The door is now fitted into position by locating the wheels into the track. The aluminium door bottom guide rail is pre-fitted to the timber base rail of the greenhouse in the workshop. Locate the slot in the base of the greenhouse door onto the aluminium door bottom guide.

The door wheel brackets are pre-attached in the factory using two screws. The bracket has a slot which allows the wheel height to be adjusted should it be required.

Note: Should adjustment be required simply remove the fixed position screw A, raise or lower the bracket by loosening the screw located in the bracket slot as required, then replace the fixed position screw in the new location – B. Next fit the wooden door handle. It is attached using the 2 screws enclosed with the handle. Finally the internal handle which acts as a door stop is fitted on the reverse of the door.

A B

Slot

wheel

18.

Now fit the gutters. Both the downpipes can be positioned at the door end or the plain end. Push the larger flat side of the gutter under the glass stops and centralise along the length of the side. It is secured to the centre of the side uprights by drilling a 4mm pilot hole through bottom lip of the gutter and fixing into the uprights using screw type E. Care should be taken to avoid the glass by ensuring the screw is central to the capping.

19.

Now fit the spigots to the gutters which are found in the screw kit. The spigot and locking ring come complete so it will be necessary to unscrew these parts. They should be reconnected around the aperture in the gutter as shown.

Top ring of spigot

Lower ring of spigot

Downpipe

gutter end cap position.

20. The downpipe locates into the spigot and should be secured by drilling through the hole in the locking ring and through the downpipe, ensuring that the pipe is pushed firmly up into the spigot, using a 3.5mm hss drill. It is secured with a type D screw. A downpipe clip provided in the screw kit is to be secured to the pipe near the bottom with a type E screw. Finally a bend is provided to be pushed onto the downpipe at the bottom to direct the water away from the structure. The downpipe has a standard Marley type external fitting so parts are readily available from retailers should you wish to direct the water into a water butt.

21. Fit the gutter end cap to the gutter as photographed. The aluminium end caps are handed and designed in such a way as to hold the plastic gutter rigid at the ends. The end cap fits on the outside edge of the gutter end and is notched to accept the uprights of the gutter. Once firmly located seal the end cap to the gutter with a bead of silicone.

22. The base rail fixings, (see no 13), can now be tightened.

SCREW LIST A.

Sides to gables Roof spars to trimmers

64 x 4.2 s/steel pozi counter sunk

D.

Downpipe to spigot

9 x 4.2 s/steel pozi pan

J.

Secure base rail to foundation

100 x 4.8 s/steel pozi counter sunk Hilti plugs s/steel 18mm washers

E.

Roof cappings

25 x 4.2 s/steel pozi pan head

Roof spars to ridge board & sides Door runner to gable Fix down pipes P.

Ridge board brackets Roof vent to ridge board

38 x 4.2 s/steel pozi counter sunk

Q.

Glass stop brackets

25 x 3.5 s/steel pozi counter sunk

Y.

Fix gutters

16 x 4.2 s/steel pozi pan

PARTS LIST V

Door handles/stops And fixings

2 no. no. 8 x 44mm s/steel pozi counter sunk Brass screw cups

Gutter end caps

4 no.

Glass stops

8 no,

Downpipe clips

2 no.

Ridge Brackets

2. no.

Black sticky pads

16 no.

Screwdriver sizes to use.

All the screws are to be screwed in using a PZ2.

Appendix Shelving and Benching Fitting Instructions The shelves are held in position with bearers and a wooden bracket and are fitted as follows. a) Locate the bearers on the gable ends at the appropriate height to suit your needs. The bearers come in two lengths. The “eight” house door end is 545mm, and for the plain end 605mm. The “ten” house door end is 775mm and for the plain end is 605mm. They should be positioned at the same height to ensure the shelving is level and are secured using the fixings provided with kit. b) The shelf is supported midway (or the nearest upright to midway) with a shelf bracket.

Check the shelf is level and not sagging and secure using the two inch stainless steel screws provided in the kit through the pre-inserted counter sunk brass cups in the shelf bracket – one screw going into the greenhouse upright, the other into the underside of the shelf. For extra support a final fixing can be inserted through the back rail of the shelf in line with an upright – it will be necessary to drill a small pilot hole to take this.

The staging is also supported at each end by bearers but has the additional support down its length of support blocks at the rear and legs at the front. a) As with the shelving locate the bearers (the “eight” house door end is 545mm and the plain end is 605mm, the “ten” house are both 775mm) on the gable ends at desired height. b) The support blocks are to be positioned on the vertical frame of the side panel at the same height as the bearers in order that the staging be fitted level. The blocks are fixed with the brass screws provided. c) The legs are recognised as being almost square in profile and having a hole drilled in one end to take a bolt. They are supplied over length and so will need to be cut down to the appropriate length to suit the height at which you have put your staging. They are secured into position on the back face of the benching front rail. First insert the bolt so the round head of the bolt sits on the outside of the staging front rail, then push the leg onto the bolt through the pre-drilled hole and finally fit the washer then the wing nut.

Louvre Vent

Firstly cut off any excess rubber sealing strip that may be protruding from the side assemblies.

Identify the top and bottom of the side assemblies and position them with the glass holders facing inwards (the handle should be pointing upwards in a closed position). Mate the holes of the top and bottom bar with the screw slot at the ends of the side assemblies and attach them with the screws provided. The louvre can be positioned under either of the side vents. It is fitted from the inside.

With the louvre there are two lengths of cedar supplied. One is moulded to act like a dripmold and is fitted through the pre-drilled holes using three short counter sunk screws into the face of the sill rail at the base of the louvre. The second section is secured using two 2 inch screws through the predrilled holes into the underside of the window transom. This piece should be fitted prior to introducing the louvre with the rebated facing inside. Once secured in place it can be glazed.

Position of second section.

The louvre can be screwed to the framework at the side.

Example of Base Plan.