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FROM THE EDITOR

CONTENT

Content Teri Williams Publisher, Proprietor & Chief Editor teri@great-taste.net

INSIDE 4 NEW TALENT

THE BIZ 2 0 RAISING THE BAR

Meet the new faces contributing to the Great Taste of Orange County

8

Vermouth

21

ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS Restaurants in the Orange County

BAR TALK Artisan. Craft. Boutique. Mixology. Rift.

22

community are recognized for their

VIN Fresh Wine

milestone birthdays.

TRENDS 1 0 POKE

D E PA RT M E N T S 5 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH

Perfect Cuts Mandarinquats

F E AT U R E S 1 2 ASIAN INSPIRATION

9

CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH Rogue River Blue

Subtle and Spicy

14

ASIAN TWIST On The Menu

18

CHEF DE CUISINE

RECIPES 7 TIATO ROLL 1 4 ASIAN CARNITAS AND

Chef/Partner Ron Lee

KIM CHEE TACOS

19 20

SALT & PEPPER PORK CHOPS PANACHE COCKTAIL

On The Cover Vegan lovers can enjoy AnQi By House of An’s Tiato Roll. A fresh, crisp roll of delicious veggies rolled in rice paper and soy wrappers. View the recipe for the Tiato Roll on page 7 and one of Chef Ron Lee’s delicious dishes on page 19. Photo by Michael Rutt Photography

TERI’S TAKE hen I grew up Asian cuisine options were few and far between. Going out for Chinese was a grand affair with the flaming Hibachi pupu platter center stage alongside the umbrella-clad Tiki drink. Oh, Tiki drinks – we’ll save that subject for an upcoming issue of Great Taste.

There was the occasional Chinese restaurant, perhaps designated by region, but that was about it. In Southern California we’re blessed with a plethora of choices. Not only do the offerings come from many different countries, but from different neighborhoods within those countries! Of course, the next step in the evolution is fusion with non-Asian cuisine and the modernization of Asian Cuisine. Some say it’s bastardization, and Chef Alan Wong professes that Asian + Fusion = Con Fusion, but others consider the progression natural and necessary. Great Chefs, in pursuit of new, exotic flavors are incorporating Asian grown ingredients into dishes to create Umami, bring a specific taste profile or texture to their dishes or create more creative Vegan options. Come discover the flavors of Asia in both Asian and American restaurants.

W

Visit www.great-taste.net for more indepth articles, recipes and cookbook selections.

We’re here to spark the fire in your imagination and help keep your restaurant concept evolving!

Cheers!

MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste

3

INSIDE

New Talent

SINCE 2000

PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams

PHILLIP PRETTY CHEF PARTNER,

EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams

RESTAURATION

Contributors Andrew Aoun

After more than 10 years of cooking in Los Angeles at the

Chef Gabriel Caliendo

likes of Axe, The London and fundamental LA, Long

Sonya Kelsen

Beach native Philip Pretty is finally creating his

Derek Sena

wonderful, thoughtful cuisine in his own city. Chef Pretty

James Wood

joined Restauration in October 2015 and has since put his signature style and culinary flair on the menu while continuing to grow the use of hyperlocal and sustainable ingredients. His mission: be a part of the growing Long Beach culinary scene and help the Long Beach community to eat well and eat local.

RESTAURATION 2708 E 4th Street, Long Beach, CA 90814

ART Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com

PHOTO

MAC GREGORY CEO, SAINT MARC USA CEO and master mixologist Mac Gregory, executive of 25 years in the international food and beverage community,

Photography Editor Michael Rutt michael@michaelrutt.com

ADVERTISING

has developed, launched and managed some of world’s

Advertising Sales

most elite luxury hospitality brands and concept

714-960-0534

restaurants. Gregory and his close executives plan to elevate the culinary experience in Orange County by providing an open and welcoming environment to their guests. Shortly after moving to Orange County in April

21851 Newland St #217

2014, Gregory discovered that local dining always considers tourists, visitors and local residents, creating a

Huntington Beach, CA 92646

great, dynamic experience, all of which was considered carefully while developing Saint Marc.

SAINT MARC PUB-CAFE, BAKERY & CHEESE AFFINAGE 21058 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach, CA 92648

4

www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016

714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net

INSIDE

PRODUCE PICK O F

T H E

M O N T H

MANDARINQUAT MANDARINQUATS ARE A WONDERFULLY-TART FRUIT. Never heard of them?

Well, they’re fairly new and limited in production—you’d typically need to visit specialty produce markets during the months of January through March. They originated in the 1970s in Indio near UCLA, evolved from an open pollinated seedling under a Nagami kumquat tree. This little fruit has a semi-sweet character, and though they can be eaten out-of-hand, they’re well-suited for sauces, purees and preserves. Applying the Mandarinquat’s juice and zest in cocktails can give new life to classic mixes. You can even pair this fruit with aged cheeses, Middle-Eastern spices, and a variety of fresh herbs. Rich in vitamin C and fiber, Mandarinquats are of great nutritional value. Add this fruit to your culinary creations today!

The produce hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, and propagation and promotion of heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties. www.theproducehunter.com.

MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste

5

INSIDE

New Talent MICHAEL BECK EXECUTIVE CHEF, HOTEL IRVINE Originally from Austria, Chef Michael Beck has worked at upscale, award-winning clubs and hotels in the U.S. for the last 20 years, including his stints as Executive Chef at The Valley Hunt Club, Pasadena, and Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa, Rancho Santa Fe. Beck takes pride in crafting most of his food in-house at Hotel Irvine and enjoys knowing the history behind each ingredient. In his new position, Chef Beck oversees all food and beverage outlets but his first order of business is to introduce new chef-driven private event menus that will focus on food quality, freshness and, most importantly, flavor. He intends to design a roster of options for events and meetings to include uncomplicated, yet appealing European- and American-style breakfast choices such as hot sandwiches, frittatas and skillets. His goal for private events lunch and dinner menus is to present contemporary restaurant-oriented choices to planners and hosts and then deliver restaurant quality food at all functions. Another goal is to make morning, mid-day and afternoon food and beverage breaks fun and exciting by focusing on themes and providing up-to-date interactive action stations manned by chefs. In addition, developing a new down-to-earth dessert menu for private events is part of Beck’s overall plan. He admits to having a sweet tooth – in fact more than one!

HOTEL IRVINE 17900 Jamboree Road, Irvine, California 92614

6

www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016

INSIDE

TIATO ROLL ON THE COVER

SAUCE PREPARATION

RECIPE BY: House of An

Add garlic, rice vinegar, and sugar in a pot.

Makes 4 Rolls

Reduce the liquid until golden in color, or about 3/4 C remains. Add cilantro, chopped chilies, lime juice

1

Package firm tofu - cut into 3” x 1/2” batons

1/2

Zucchini - cut into 3” x 1/2” batons

1/2

Chinese eggplant - cut into 3” x 1/2” batons

ROLL PREPARATION

1/2

Sweet potato - cut into 3” x 1/2” batons

Fry all vegetables until light golden brown and

16

Tia tô leaves (Vietnamese Perilla)

tender. Marinate zucchini and eggplant with Cilantro

16

Thai basil leaves

Chili Sauce. Season sweet potato and tofu with salt,

4 sheets Rice paper

and fish sauce.

pepper and a pinch of sugar.

4 sheets Sesame soy wrappers 8 oz

Sweet Cilantro Chili Sauce

TO ASSEMBLE

Salt, pepper, sugar to sprinkle

Soak rice paper in warm water just enough to slightly soften. About 7 seconds. Place soaked rice paper

CILANTRO CHILI SAUCE

flat on work surface. Place soy paper on center of

2T

Garlic - minced

rice paper. Proceed with a line of both herbs. Layer

1C

Sugar

vegetables on top of the herbs. Wrap base of spring

1C

Seasoned rice wine vinegar

roll over veggies, and continue to roll to make a tight

1T

Red chilies - chopped

cylinder being careful not to wrap too tight as the

2T

Cilantro - chopped

wrapper will break.

1t

Fish sauce

1t

Fresh lime juice

MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste

7

INSIDE

Happy Anniversary

Books

In the restaurant business, arriving at the one-year anniversary is a huge accomplishment.

In addition to the milestone first year of business, restaurants that have become a staple in the Orange County community should also be recognized and lauded for their outstanding food and service.

Congratulations on your milestone birthdays!

Visit great-taste.net for a comprehensive list of local restaurant anniversaries.

Can’t find your restaurant’s birthday? Email info@great-taste.net and we’ll make sure to include your celebrations.

26 YEARS L’OPERA

AN: TO EAT In Vietnamese, “an” means “to eat,” a happy coincidence, since the An family has

WHAT YEAR DID THE RESTAURANT OPEN? 1990

built an award-winning restaurant empire—

HOW MANY OWNERS HAS THE RESTAURANT HAD? Terry Antonelli has been the owner since the restaurant’s

including Orange County’s AnQi. Helene

inception, but he has had several business partners over the years.

An, executive chef and matriarch of the

HOW MANY EMPLOYEES DOES THE RESTAURANT CURRENTLY HAVE? 49

House of An, is hailed as the “Mother of

TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THE POPULARITY OF THE RESTAURANT? The popularity of the restaurant is

Fusion” and was inducted into the

attributed to many things not the least of which our amazing consistency and timeless design that has never

Smithsonian Institute for her signature

been trendy but enduring. Chef Cotta has maintained an unparalleled menu that has earned the restaurant

style that brings together Vietnamese,

countless coveted awards and critical acclaim both locally and nationally as Zagat's top 1000 restaurants in

French, and California-fresh influences.

the nation. Chef Cotta prides himself in personally shopping for the best produce, fish, poultry and meats from

Now, her daughter Jacqueline tells the

many local markets including many organic herb farms.

family story and shares her mother’s

Our pastas and breads our made on site daily to insure the freshest foods for our dining guests.

delicious and previously “secret” recipes,

TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THE LONGEVITY OF THE RESTAURANT? The Longevity of L'Opera is a

including “Mama’s” Beef Pho, Drunken

testament to our food and service and an ambience that is classical and timeless. The majority of our staff is

Crab, and Oven-Roasted Lemongrass

seasoned and has been here over 15 years and has established many enduring friendships with our wonderful

Chicken.

guests over the years. The interiors are always fresh as we renovate every few years with new upholstery etc.

The book is a fascinating peek at a

and are continuously adding new items on our menu including many vegan, vegetarian and gluten free items

remote world, and the evolution of an

to insure that our guests have the many options that they desire.

extraordinary cuisine. The 100 recipes in

WHAT MAKES YOUR RESTAURANT UNIQUE? The uniqueness of L'Opera is it's classical design and being

An: To Eat feature clean flavors, simple

located in one of Long Beach's oldest and most recognized historical buildings. circa 1906. The clock tower

techniques, and unique twists that could

located on the roof of this 6 story building keeps the downtown "on time" as the clock chimes each hour. The

only have come from Helene’s personal

award winning design features a ground up restoration of what was once the First National Bank. The original

story.

ceilings were meticulously restored and accented by a series of marble columns that sit on mahogany hardwood flooring throughout the main dining room. The restaurant is richly adorned by etched beveled glass

To purchase this book and many others, visit www.great-taste.net.

and granite and features a modern exhibition kitchen with a copper Façade. The building was renamed "The L'Opera Building" in 1998.

ARE THERE ANY ORIGINAL DISHES THAT ARE STILL ON THE MENU TODAY? L’Opera is constantly improving upon the menu. Here are several CUSTOMER FAVORITES: FAVORITO!!! — Homemade Red & Green Tagliatelle Pasta Sautéed with Jumbo Lump Crab, Butter & Black Truffle Peelings, Drizzled with Truffle Oil CAPPELLACCI DI ZUCCA — Homemade Ravioli, Butternut Squash, Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Spicy Marinara, Shaved Parmigiano Cheese, Brown Butter Sage Sauce LASAGNA DI POLLO — Homemade Sheet Pasta, Chicken Ragu, Mozzarella, Ricotta Cheese, Parmigiano Cheese, Spicy Tomato Sauce, Creamy Pesto Sauce SALMONE DORATO — Sustainably- Raised Salmon, Shaved Apple, Fennel, Cider Mustard Sauce;

MAKE CONTACT

Fingerling Potatoes, Leeks, Smoked Pancetta (Italian Bacon)

101 Pine Avenue

CIOPPINO — Stew of Fresh Fish, Clams, Mussels, Shrimp, Crab, Calamari, Clam Juice, Tomatoes; Crostini

Long Beach, CA 90802

HOW ARE YOU CELEBRATING THIS YEAR? We are planning to announce our milestone celebration as soon

GENERAL MANAGER: Nicole Lira

the existing renovations has been completed sometime in late August 2016.

EXECUTIVE CHEF: Walter Cotta

8

www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016

INSIDE

1 YEAR WURSTHAUS

25 YEARS BACI

WHAT YEAR DID THE RESTAURANT OPEN?

Baci Restaurant was open in the month of March in

Wursthaus had it's first official soft opening on

1991. My name is Angelo Juliano, Chef/Owner and it

February 20th, 2015. However, our Anniversary

has been my pleasure to bring Authentic Italian food

Celebrations took place this year on March 5th,

to Huntington Beach. I can honestly tell you I am a

2015. If you ask anyone, we opened in March 2015

real Italian running a family business. My wife Maria

as that is when we first hit our stride serving up the

Juliano is the General Manager for the last 21 years.

best brats and biers in Santa Ana.

We are celebrating by giving 15% off the entire

18748 Beach Blvd., Huntington Beach, CA

WHAT IS THE SIGNATURE DISH? Many would

dinner bill for dinner Sunday to Thursday for the

GENERAL MANAGER: Maria Juliano

disagree on our signature dish. We serve up a wide

months of March and April.

EXECUTIVE CHEF: Angelo Juliano

MAKE CONTACT

variety of classic, gourmet, and exotic sausages (including Alligator!). However, our signature and most popular sausage is our Smoked Bratwurst. It's made with pork, spices, and a dash of paprika. It's delicious in our homemade pretzel roll or traditional grinder. It is also the perfect addition to our famous Drunken Fries that are made with fresh-cut kennebec potatoes twice-fried golden and topped with haus andalouse sauce and our IPA caramelized onions.

HOW ARE YOU CELEBRATING THIS YEAR? We celebrated our anniversary this year with a night-long

CHEESE PICK O F

T H E

M O N T H

promotion inviting our loyal patrons to 'bring a brat' and 'get a brat.' The brat could be their best friend, husband, cousin, mom, boyfriend, girlfriend, whomever, but if they bought any brat they'd get our smoked bratwurst for free. One of their brats equaled one of ours from 5pm to midnight on March 5th!

DO YOU HAVE ANY PLANS IN THE WORKS FOR CHANGES OR EXPANSION? We're very excited to announce we just got approved to expand and start construction on a new rooftop section of our restaurant that will allow us to bring a classic European Beer Garden to Santa Ana. Guests will be able to sip our imported Belgium and German brews on a patio overlooking Downtown Santa Ana by midsummer. We hope this expansion will allow us to provide the perfect environment for day-drinking and brat-eating, in addition to a must-see place on all Santa Ana late-night beer crawls.

ROGUE BLUE

MAKE CONTACT

ROGUE RIVER BLUE IS A HIGHLY-VENERATED BLUE CHEESE MADE BY ROGUE CREAMERY, a

305 E 4th St.

numerous awards, including a 1st Place award in the Blue Class at the World Cheese Awards! Only

Santa Ana, 92701

made during autumn, when the cow’s milk is best suited for the pursued flavor profile, the cheese is

GENERAL MANAGER:

wrapped in grape leaves that have been macerated in pear brandy. The aging process lasts for a

Georgiana Ruiz

minimum of eight months, giving a beautifully-well-aged, fruit and brandy flavor, with a tactfully-

EXECUTIVE CHEF: (Wursthaus was

wonderful hint of hazelnut and a firm texture. Rogue River Blue is complemented by strong beers

established with the owners' vision and a chefs

(barleywines, Belgian dark strong ales, porters, etc.), bourbons, tempranillos, and rieslings. With a

consultant helped us establish the recipes) We do not

cheese this exquisite, be sure to serve it at your next party or get-together!

have an Executive Chef Georgiana oversees all kitchen execution.

Southern Oregon-based creamery that focuses predominantly on blue cheese. This cheese has won

For more information on Rogue River Blue or Rogue Creamery, and other cheese, please contact your FreshPoint representative.

MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste

9

TRENDS

SoCal is Hungry for Poke POKE—PRONOUNCED POH-KAY—IS A HAWAIIAN DISH THAT IS

What made you decide to put poke on the menu at Yard House? It was

this raw fish salad getting so much hype? Why are new poke restaurants

great way to utilize raw Tuna in a different way. It was also an exciting story

popping up? How did people even get the idea to make a veritable raw fish

for our guests as we, as a brand, like to be a culinary bridge to the masses,

hodge-podge, discover that it would actually taste nothing short of amazing,

introducing new flavors. We put it on the menu at our original Long Beach

and call it an appetizer/entrée?

location in 1999.

Starting from humble origins, poke began when fishermen would season

How does poke fit with the Yard House theme? For food, we like to have

and snack on the cutoffs of their catch. Poke is traditionally served with ahi

authentic flavors with food that has a story, then, we put our spin on it. As

tuna, otherwise known as yellowfin tuna. Heavily influenced by Asian

far as fit, it works well for our guest and goes great with the variety of beer

cuisine, the tuna cuts are seasoned with ingredients like soy sauce, green

we carry.

onions, sesame seeds/oil, dried seaweed, wasabi, and ginger. Thematically,

Would you consider serving a broader spectrum of poke, such as with

the sauces or condiments that are considered typical in Japanese sushi

octopus? We have prepared Ono for special events, and we are certainly open

cuisine (sriracha, salmon roe, roasted garlic, ponzu sauce, you name it) can

to it as trends evolve.

be tactful in an ahi poke dish. Also, the fish can easily be replaced or mixed with other raw, marinated seafood, such as salmon, octopus, or scallops.

Poke, in its present form, has only started gaining popularity since the 70s, mainly in Hawaii. While Chinese food has been in the United States for over a century, many Asian foods haven’t truly gained an American following

Have you visited any of the new poke restaurants in Southern California?

I have not but [I] will soon. I have seen two different locations open up in my neighborhood. I have to admit that I have bought poke at Costco.

What do you think of the new poke trends? I think the poke trend is right up the alley of healthful eating with an adventurous bent.

until latter parts of the 20th century. Poke only truly hit its stride amongst

Well, now you might be asking: Where do I go to find a good bowl of poke

Orange County residents during the last few years! (Yes—poke has been

and try this stuff out? From upscale eateries like Yard House, to popular

around SoCal for longer than a few years, but never has it piqued the interest

chains like California Fish Grill, to foodie-favorite joints like North Shore

of the region like now!)

Poke Co. in Huntington Beach or PokeNometry, you can’t go wrong. It must

At Great Taste, we wanted to delve further into poke, so we asked Chef

be emphasized that, since poke can be done in so many ways, each

Carlito Jocson, Vice President and Corporate Executive Chef of Yard House,

restaurant prepares it differently, so try it everywhere you go until you

for his opinions on the matter since he was one of the first Chefs to introduce

discover your favorite. Want to know more?

Poke to local mainstream diners.

How did you first experience poke? I experienced it in the big Island of

10

Hawaii served with some dried shrimp and poi.

TRENDING SIGNIFICANTLY ACROSS SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. But why is

www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016

Come visit us at Great-Taste.net for information and addresses to all the popular poke hot spots!

TRENDS

Celebrate National Soy Foods Month Located in Los Angeles, AFC has been in the soy manufacturing industry for over 40 years, providing tofu that can be used in salads, baked tofu that can be used in sandwiches, soy noodles as a low carb item, and soy pudding as a healthy dessert to name just a few items in their expansive product lines.

Tofu is a nutrient dense food that is low in calories, high in protein and contains many important vitamins and minerals including all eight of the amino acids that the body needs. If tofu was not a staple item in the mainstream diet 10 years ago, it is now, with the millennials who are highly aware in making healthy food choices and have great buying power to do so.

Millennials account for $6 billion in food expenditures and 45% of that figure is spent just on eating away from home; surpassing the baby boomers.1 Many restaurants including Mendocino Farms, Pick Up Stix, P.F. Chang's, Pei Wei, Salata, Urth Cafe, and Yard House have incorporated AFC products into their vegan and Asian menu options like vegan sandwiches, noodle Yard House specs AFC soy products in their Garlic Noodle and Lettuce Wrap dishes.

dishes, lettuce wraps and rolls. Today, AFC produces more than 17,000 packages of tofu daily, along with its other popular products in their state-of-

SOY PRODUCTS, SUCH AS TOFU ARE VERSATILE ITEMS THAT CAN BE A

the-art facility, and continues to be one of the largest manufacturers of soy

TASTY MEAT ALTERNATIVE FOR RESTAURANTS LOOKING TO EXPAND

products established in the United States.

THEIR

CURRENT

MENU

CATERING

TO

HEALTH

CONSCIOUS

For more information on ordering AFC

CONSUMERS. While soy has been highly contested, and people may think

products directly, through a distributor or ideas

all soy products are genetically modified, only American grown non-

of how to incorporate soy products into your

genetically modified soybeans and certified-organic soybeans are used at the

restaurant’s menu, visit www.afcsoyfoods.com.

American Food Company (AFC) manufacturing plant.

1 The Food Institute: www.foodinstitute.com/blog/Millenials

MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste

11

F E AT U R E

Asian Inspiration

ABOUT THE WRITER Chef Gabriel Caliendo is the VP of Food & Beverage and Principal of Lazy Dog Restaurant & Bar. Stay tuned for Chef Gabe’s new column. SEA-FARM-TABLE

by Chef Gabriel Caliendo

AT LAZY DOG RESTAURANT & BAR WE LIKE TO UTILIZE ASIAN FLAVORS

sesame seeds and sesame oil. The cucumber salad is a perfect side dish that

AND PROFILES THROUGHOUT OUR MENU. Sometimes, we are creating

is crisp and refreshing. It also happens to be very low in calories and is

our version of an authentic dish, and other times we are just using Asian

featured on Lazy Dogs’ “Nutritious & Delicious” menu as a low-calorie

ingredients to enhance a dish. Either way, the Lazy Dog team loves to

option.

develop dishes inspired by Asian cuisine and Asian ingredients.

Sometimes the inspiration isn’t based on an authentic recipe, but a

We have several dishes that are inspired by, and authentic to, the cuisine

concept that utilizes the ingredients of the Asian country. A great example

of the country. From Thailand, we’ve created our version of Pad Thai

of this is our Calamari Appetizer. It starts by marinating calamari strips in a

Noodles, featuring rehydrated rice vermicelli, tofu, scrambled eggs,

traditional Chinese solution of egg whites, cornstarch, oil and salt. It is then

chicken, shrimp, vegetables and crushed peanuts served in our house made

dredged in flour and flash-fried at a very high temperature for a short period

pad Thai sauce. The sauce is made using traditional ingredients, such as,

of time to seal in the juices. The fried calamari is added to a clean wok with

fresh squeezed lemon juice, fresh chopped ginger and the pungent but

ginger, garlic, bell peppers, peanuts and our house made five-spice Asian

delicious Fish Sauce. There are many levels in quality with fish sauce — I

BBQ sauce. After quickly tossing it is finished with sesame oil and plated on

always choose a brand that has anchovy and water as their first two

top of steamed rice and garnished with sesame seeds and green onions.

ingredients.

Another dish Lazy Dog offers is our Sticky Ribs with Asian Slaw and Umami

Lazy Dog serves a traditional Japanese edamame appetizer, but with a

fries. The crispy tender ribs are tossed in a sesame plum sauce. The slaw is

twist! We toss the whole edamame beans in a wok with fresh ginger and our

mixed with our own dressing version of a Ponzu sauce. The French fries are

house-made Japanese Togarashi, a blend of black and white sesame seeds,

drizzled with an Asian inspired sauce made with ginger, sambal chile paste

red chile flakes, sea salt, garlic and peppercorn. We then take this blend to

and the traditional Japanese eel sauce found at sushi bars. When combined

the next level by adding fresh orange peel, making Lazy Dogs’ version a

the dish truly embodies the flavors of Umami!

Nanami Togarashi! Also from Japan is our version of Sunomono or Japanese

12

Cucumber Salad. We finely shave seedless cucumbers, carrots and radishes

Togarashi, the Japanese word for “chiles,” is a group of condiments always

and then quick pickle them in rice wine vinegar, sugar, black and white

including chiles that bring out the clean, simple flavors of Japanese food.

www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016

digital

catalog

advertising

web

studio

location

www.michaelrutt.com 949-322-7590 | michael@michaelrutt.com

F E AT U R E

Asian Twist ASIAN CARNITAS AND KIM CHEE TACOS

By Chef Tom Fraker Melissa’s Produce Makes 12 servings – 20 mini tacos 2 lbs

Pork butt

MARINADE 1C

Soy sauce

1C

Water

1/2 C

Seasoned rice vinegar

1/2 C

Fresh orange juice

THE ASIAN DINING CULTURE CONTINUES TO EVOLVE ONTO MAINSTREAM MENUS as chefs get more

1/4 C

Honey

familiar with the flavors of the east. They are incorporating ingredients most noteworthy on Asian menus into

2 Cloves Melissa’s peeled garlic - minced

dishes not customarily inclusive of them. Ingredients like, enoki mushrooms, fish sauce, ginger, bean

1T

Fresh ginger - minced

sprouts, bok choy, and sesame are blended with non-traditional pairings, adding just a touch of Asia.

1/4 C

Sweet chili sauce

1T

Sesame oil

On other menus in the non-Asian sector we now find not only inspired dishes but authentic dishes like sushi, pho, dumplings, spicy noodle dishes and the like. Roy's first introduced me to their unforgettable, and still favorite, Misoyaki Butterfish and similar dishes are now found on many seafood restaurant menus.

TOPPINGS

Tangata, created by Chef Joachim Splichal, offers a modern Pacific Rim influenced cuisine reflective of the

1 jar

Melissa’s jo san kim chee - chopped

exhibitions at Bowers Museum in Santa Ana. Executive Chef Donald Harris combine the tastes of Asia, the

3

Melissa’s mini cucumbers - ends

noodles, spicy cabbage, and charred green onion; Spam Tacos with corn tortillas, sesame marinated seaweed

3

Fresh roma tomatoes - diced small

salad, and spicy Sriracha crema; and Manilla Clams with ginger, scallions, coconut milk, and Thai basil.

1/2 C

Sweet chili sauce

Accompaniments such as kimchi are now served to balance and enhance dishes with no Asian inspiration.

2T

Hot chili oil

40

“Chicanitas” corn tortillas (4.5-inch

Pacific Islands, and California to create dishes such as Korean Marinated Skirt Steak with sesame glass

Here in Orange County we're lucky to have not only the enclave of Little Saigon, but we also have Chinese centers with shops and restaurants, Japanese mega stores, and Korean markets; some of the best choices in

trimmed; diced small

diameter)

the world.

Then there are the authentic Asian restaurants upfront like AnQi, Capital Seafood, and Din Tai Fung

Mix the marinade ingredients until well combined.

introducing their cuisines with no substitute to authenticity but also with a touch of fusion. And yes, we have

In a pot or dutch oven, add the 2 pounds of pork

plenty of fusion restaurants. Born in Southern California’s culinary melting pot, Urban Seoul brings a menu

butt and the marinade. Cover and refrigerate

revolving around California and traditional bibimbap dishes. The cultural background of those in line at Lee’s

overnight. Preheat the oven to 350º. Remove the

Sandwiches, East Borough, Hashigo, Mr Katsu, Jolly B, Goldie Locks, Guppy House, etc. are varied as it

pan with the pork from the refrigerator, cover with

should be in the melting pot of educated diners in Orange County.

foil and set at room temperature for 30 minutes.

In Los Angeles, teppanyaki tables are many, hot pots continue to appear and it seems that these

Place in the preheated oven and roast for about 1

interactive dining options are forefront in the appetites of some of the younger self-proclaimed "foodie" dining

hour or until the interior temperature reaches 160º.

audience. WP24 by Wolfgang Puck, perched on the 24th floor of The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles offers guests

Remove from the oven, let cool and shred pork,

a fine dining Chinese restaurant offering an elevated take on traditional dishes with high-end, farm fresh

using 2 forks. Drizzle with the pan drippings and

ingredients, authentic flavors and spices, and eye-catching presentation such its Whole Roasted Peking

mix well. To assemble the tacos, stack 2 tortillas on

Duck, XO Seafood Dumplings with sweet shrimp, Alaskan king crab, and Maine lobster. The service style

a plate. Top with some pork, kim chee, cucumber

includes a customizable dining experience moving away from their original tasting menu format, and menu

and tomatoes. In a bowl, mix together the chili

additions offering a la carte and family-styled dishes.

sauce and chili oil. Drizzle on the taco and repeat

In Washington DC Filipino cuisine is making a splash. Could it be next for Orange County?

14

www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016

for remaining tortillas.

F E AT U R E

KIMCHI Kim Chee, also spelled kimchee or gimchi, is a traditional fermented Korean side dish made of vegetables (napa cabbage, radish, scallion, or cucumber) with a variety of seasonings. In traditional

preparation,

kimchi

was

stored

underground in jars to keep cool during the summer months and unfrozen during the winter months.

Asian Carnitas and Kim Chee Tacos (see previous page for recipe)

PHO A traditional Vietnamese noodle dish, pho consists of meat and ban pho, a medium wide rice stick noodle served in a bowl of clear broth flavored with seasonings such as star anise, ginger, ngo gai and onion, with accompaniments like basil, bean sprouts, chili peppers, onion, lemon or lime, mint and cilantro.

Beef Pho: Shortribs and an egg.

Chef Cathy Pavlos Provenance 2531 Eastbluff Dr, Newport Beach, California 92660

KOREAN STYLE BARBECUED BEEF (BULGOGI) Consisting of thin, tender strips of beef that have been marinated for several hours before being briefly grilled, Bulgogi, Korean for “fire meat,” isn’t highly spiced.

Bernie's Bones: Korean-style short-ribs, pickled vegetables, sesame seeds.

Chef Justin Odegard Ways & Means 21022 Pacific Coast Hwy, Huntington Beach, California 92648

MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste

15

F E AT U R E

TOFU Custard-like, white tofu is made from curdled Soy Milk, an iron-rich liquid extracted from ground, cooked Soybeans. The resulting curds are drained and pressed in a fashion similar to cheese-making.

The firmness of the resulting tofu depends on how much whey has been extracted. Tofu has a bland, slightly-nutty flavor that gives it a chameleon-like capability to take on the flavor of the food with which it’s cooked.

Babette's Salad: Mixed baby lettuce, crisp organic tofu, toybox tomato, roasted beets, shaved parmesan, fennel, walnut herbed potato, red wine vinaigrette.

Chef Michael B Powell Babette’s 7962 E Coast Hwy, Newport Beach, California 92657

FISH SAUCE Popular throughout Southeast Asia, fish sauce can be any of various mixtures based on the liquid from salted, fermented fish. This extremely pungent, strong-flavored and salty liquid can range in color from ochre to deep brown. It is used as a condiment and flavoring, just as soy sauce would be used. Fish sauces may be flavored variously — such as with chiles or sugar — depending on the use.

Thai Balls: Buttermilk fried pork cutlet, jalapeño cilantro lime shallot fish sauce, topped with maple syrup.

Chef Cody Storts Grits 133 W Chapman Ave. Fullerton, California 92832

16

www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016

F E AT U R E

KOBE An exclusive grade of beef from cattle raised in Kobe, Japan. These pampered cattle are massaged with Sake and fed a special diet that includes plentiful amounts of beer. This specialized treatment results in beef that is extraordinarily tender and full-flavored. It also makes the beef extravagantly expensive which is why it’s rarely available in the United States.

TERIYAKI A Japanese dish of food, such as beef or chicken, that has been marinated in a mixture of soy sauce, sake (or sherry), sugar, ginger and seasonings before being grilled, broiled or fried. The sugar in the marinade gives the cooked food a slight glaze.

The Rising Sun: Kobe beef, teriyaki glaze, nori fruitcake, crispy yam, spicy mayo, and tempura avocado.

Holsteins Shakes and Buns 3333 Bristol St, Costa Mesa California 92626

KUNG PAO A spicy sour-sweet Chinese stir-fry dish of chunks or strips of chicken, shrimp or vegetables with sweet peppers, dried chiles, peanuts, garlic, ginger, wine and soy sauce.

Kung Pao Pizza: Asian spiced chicken topped with mozzarella, red onion, sweet bell peppers, and pineapple.

Craftsman Woodfired Pizza 148 E Yorba Linda Blvd, Placentia, California 92870

MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste

17

CHEF DE CUISINE and turn on the TV. [I was] beat. [I was] tired. I’d lay on the couch, flipping through the channels, and I would come across chefs on TV. It wasn’t even the Food Network. It was Discovery Channel. And they had this program called “Great Chefs.” They would highlight three chefs on a 30-minute program. That setting, where I would see a chef just cook a dish, and they would talk about the preparation—[they might be] from France and even need a translator. But the technique they would show on camera, the plating and the artistry and everything, I was wowed. I was so into it. I want to do that!”

After high school when his parents split—and Ron was forced to move several times, going to several different community colleges—cooking was always a therapeutic past time. So, when he was dealing with the hardships of UCLA pre-med, he would remember the cooks on Great Chefs, and at that point it seemed like a no-brainer. Ron went to his school advisor and dropped from UCLA. His advisor told him that, if the “cooking thing” did not pan out, he could always come back, but to Ron it was a point of no return.

In 2001, at the age of 25, Ron enrolled into Le Cordon Bleu. There, he worked hard to learn the foundational aspects of his trade. He then found his first kitchen job at Mistral, where he learned a great deal of seafoodcooking techniques, before working at other esteemed establishments such as Melisse and Napa Rose. It was at Melisse that he would learn butchery, and it was at Napa Rose that he would develop his butchery techniques, from duck to fish to lamb. Napa Rose would come to be a very educational experience, as they had a “vintners menu,” where every week had a new menu. During his time at Napa Rose, he met his girlfriend, Bon Buttasin, a fellow cook. He worked at Napa Rose for seven years, becoming promoted to sous-chef when a fellow sous-chef had temporarily leave. Unfortunately, when that fellow sous-chef returned, Ron was returned to the line, and it was Photo by Michael Rutt

soon after that, that he left Napa Rose and found his place at AnQi. At AnQi, Chef Ron is pushed to the limit. Of course, when you work with the An family, the spotlight is always right above. Elizabeth An, daughter of the famous Chef Helene “Mama”, is the main operator of AnQi, and constantly pushes for new events and promotions! With large productions happening

Chef Ron Lee

by Derek Sena

year ‘round, it is a wonder that he has the tenacity and perseverance to keep up. From fashion events, to catering off-site, to in-house promotions, new dishes are always being created. To Chef Ron, these productions are essential to success in fine dining: “Just having good food is not enough, these days. There’s too much competition.”

Through Chef Ron Lee’s culinary experiences, from his formal education at Le Cordon Bleu, to his kitchen jobs at Mistral, Melisse, Napa Rose, and

18

DURING CHILDHOOD, MANY PEOPLE FIND ACTIVITIES THEY ENJOY AND

AnQi, he says that the main take-away that everyone should prioritize is

LOVE. Some children want to become actors, some want to become

humility, something that he says he lacked early on in his career. He even

professional athletes, some want to become astronauts. For Chef Ron,

said that that early ego costed him dearly, in that when being interviewed for

becoming a veterinarian was that dream. Ron considered many aspirations;

potential work with the Four Seasons Hotel, it kept him from getting in the

not only did he want to be a veterinarian, but perhaps an officer or a fireman.

door. It was inspiring to hear what he had learned, ascribing these lessons

He was so hard-working and smart, that as a young adult, he was accepted

to chefs he had worked and learned under: “Leave your attitude at the door.

and was fulfilling pre-med courses at UCLA to realize his veterinary dream.

[Wherever you go,] come with a clean slate and just work. If you have

But even with the multiple ambitions, as well as the prestige of UCLA pre-

something going on, just forget about it. [Like with athletes,] when you play,

medicine, something was still not clicking. After long, arduous school days,

you just play. It’s game time.” Chef Ron also ascribes worth to family. Once

Ron would turn the television on and watch one of his favorite shows on the

he’s off the clock, he likes to go home to his family, where he and his

Discovery Channel: Great Chefs. It was watching this show that he would

girlfriend raise a girl they’re hoping to adopt. “I’m almost 40 years old!

realize his true calling in life—to be a chef.

There’s this biological yearning for someone small to take care of. And I got

Ron always loved cooking. Growing up, cooking seemed like the most

it now. Basically, it was that missing piece that I didn’t have. I have the

therapeutic event of each day. During an interview with Ron, he explained:

career and the status. [ . . . ] What is fulfilling is coming home to hear ‘Papa,

“When I was in high school, I would get out of football practice, come home,

you’re home!’”

www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016

CHEF DE CUISINE

SALT & PEPPER PORK CHOPS WITH RED PLUM SAUCE CHEF RON LEE I used to make this dish for my fellow cooks on special occasions. They would ask for it for family meal at least once a month.

3

Single bone pork chops

METHOD

1/2 C

Corn starch

Pound pork chop with a tenderizer to 1/2” thickness. Season both sides with salt

2T

Garlic - minced

and pepper. Dredge in corn starch. Shallow fry on medium heat in a skillet with a

2t

Ginger - minced

1/4” of neutral oil. Cook chops one by one in the skillet till lightly browned on both

2

Red Fresno or jalapeño chilis - sliced thinly

sides. Let drain on a towel. In a separate pan or wok. Add Black pepper and toast

2

Scallions - sliced on a bias 1/2 inch pieces

till fragrant with no oil. Add 3 T oil and add cooked pork chops. Once golden brown

1t

Salt

flip and add garlic, ginger, chilis, and scallions. Mix salt and sugar and season

1/2 t

Black pepper

chops liberally. Place pork chops on a plate and spoon the luscious aromatics and

1t

Sugar

the sauce over the top of the meat.

RED PLUM SAUCE

SAUCE

4

Red plums - peeled seeded and cut into quarters

Add sugar to a sauce pan. Bring to medium heat and make a dry caramel. Add

1/4 C

Sugar

shallots, lemongrass and plums. Let the juices of the fruit degrade the pan. Add

1/3 C

Rice vinegar

vinegar and reduce liquid by a third. Add fish sauce. Blend at high speed to make

1T

Shallots - minced

smooth.

1t

Lemongrass - minced

1t

Fish sauce

Enjoy!

From the Chef’s Mouth ANNIVERSARY WITH THIS RESTAURANT I just

JUNK FOOD BBQ potato chips

ANQI

celebrated my five year anniversary at AnQi on

RAW INGREDIENT I love working with all herbs

3333 S. Bristol St.

February 4, 2016

especially exotic herbs - Vietnamese Tiato and

Costa Mesa, CA 92626

Kinh Gioi

www.anqibistro.com

AVERAGE NUMBER OF HOURS YOU WORK IN A

FAST FOOD Sushi in a Box

WEEK Approximately 60 hours

FOOD PROGRAM Iron Chef -Japan

1ST COOKING OR FOOD-RELATED MEMORY

MOST RECOMMENDED FOOD INGREDIENT

When I was a kid, I remember walking into the

SOURCE FOR FOODIES Melissa’s for fresh produce

HOURS

kitchen seeing big plastic buckets on the floor and

& Zion Market in Irvine

11:30am-9pm Sun & Mon

ESTABLISHED December 15, 2009

my parents were making Kim Chi.

11:30am-10pm Tues-Thur BIGGEST MYTH ABOUT WORKING IN THE

WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST HOSPITALITY JOB I

11:30am-11pm Fri & Sat

KITCHEN That it is a glamorous job

worked as a prep cook at Mistral - Beverly Hills

AVERAGE COVER SIGNATURE OR FAVORITE DISH TO MAKE Too

Lunch: $ 28

IF NOT A CHEF, WHAT WOULD YOU BE A police

many to choose from but if I have to choose, a

Dinner: $ 65

officer, I studied biology at UCLA before turning my

well-seasoned juicy steak, cooked in a pan

love of cooking into a career.

HE

3 WORDS BEST DESCRIBE YOUR CULINARY

C

STYLE Clean, Timeless & Innovative

knives - expensive ones especially Misono

3 WORDS BEST DESCRIBE YOUR MANAGEMENT

*

KITCHEN APPLIANCE A great wok is my go to

STYLE Patient, Hands-on & Motivating

SPO

COOKWARE French Copper pots and pans CONDIMENT/SPICE Pantai

ADVICE FOR STUDENTS INTERESTED IN THE

DISH TO EAT Fresh from the oven baguette with

HOSPITALITY AND CULINARY INDUSTRY If you

gourmet Plugra butter, homemade ramen; never

truly love to cook and work in this industry, work

fails, nor does fried chicken

becomes easier and more fulfilling each day.

N

MELIS SA’ PRODU S CE

* Y

KITCHEN GADGET OR TOOL I love Japanese

RY

FAVORITES:

F ST O

SO

B RED

MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste

19

THE BIZ: RAISING THE BAR

18th Century Spirit

by James Wood

THE WORD VERMOUTH DERIVED FROM “WORMWOOD,” EARLIER

WAS

INHERITED

HUNGARIAN

Almost all contemporary Vermouth producers manufacture

both

sweet

(red)

and

WHEN

CONCEPTUALIZING

THE

BAR

dry

PROGRAM FOR VACA, it was important to

GERMAN

Vermouths. It is generally fair to say that French

us to match the authenticity of the food with

WORMWOOD-INFUSED WINES OF THE SAME

producers are better known for the lighter, dry

that of the bar experience and drinks offered

NAME. Modern vermouth is a refinement

and white Vermouths, and Italian producers for

in Spain. In addition to the gin tonics and

incorporating the most desirable elements of

the red, spicy Torino-inspired Vermouths. All

sherry served throughout the country, one

both these older wines and various other

commercial Vermouths are proprietary formulas,

would see vermouth being served, often

traditions

the

and it is their unique botanicals and flavor

house-made and on tap, especially in

principal, defining botanical. The Vermouth we

profiles that distinguish them. Some may be

Madrid. With vermouth's popularity once

know today originated in the region around Turin,

better, some lesser, although even those often

again on the rise in the U.S., we thought

Italy in the late 18th Century as a moderately

judged amongst the “best” may not be best in all

this was our chance to expose our guests to

sweet and herbaceous bottled beverage. In

circumstances. It is particularly important to not

the versatility of good vermouth, especially

ensuing years, other interpretations of the idea

fall into the trap of comparing vermouths to some

as

emerged from France, predominately in the

platonic ideal: it’s no more reasonable to expect

Developing our own recipe truly gives our

Chambéry (Savoy) and Lyon/Marseilles regions.

with

Wormwood

AND

FROM

remaining

something

to

drink

on

its

own.

all vermouths of one style to taste the same than

clientele something that, along with the

In the United States, Vermouth imported from

it is to expect all bourbons or gins to taste the

Vaca Tonic, they cannot get anywhere else.

Italy became wildly popular beginning in the

same. Celebrate the diversity of choice and let

Our favorite way to serve it is simply on the

1870s, and ever since, this type of Vermouth has

your own taste be your guide.

rocks with an orange peel but we also

been strongly associated with the Manhattan cocktail. By contrast, Europeans commonly sip

created a Roma, our take on the Americano

PANACHE COCKTAIL

this aperitif neat or over a little ice. The dry style,

that’s on the vermouth section of our cocktail menu. House vermouth, Gran

that emerged first in France, achieved similar

Glass: Old Fashioned

Classico and soda water with a grapefruit

popularity in the US almost concurrently,

Garnish: Lemon Twist

peel. (pictured above).

eventually becoming strongly associated with the

Ingredients:

Martini cocktail. Dry vermouth, especially that,

3 oz Dry Vermouth

BAR CONSULTANT

in the Marseilles style, also has a strong tradition

1 oz Sweet Vermouth

Gabriel Dion

in the regional kitchen as a cooking ingredient

1 Dash Angostura Bitters

The Mixing Glass

and makes a particularly nice alternative to white

Method: Add all ingredients to an old fashioned

3313 Hyland Ave.

wine in pan sauces.

glass filled with ice and stir to combine.

Costa Mesa

20

www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016

T H E B I Z : B A R TA L K

What’s Old is New Again ARTISAN. CRAFT. BOUTIQUE. MIXOLOGY.

Every time we use the terms “mixology,”

by Andrew Aoun

increased your flavor arsenal ten-fold. Superior

Many of us have used these words to define

“craft,” and so on, we are creating an unnecessary

the refined means of bartending that has firmly

rift between what lies at the core of what we

Tools of the trade are equally important for

rooted itself in the current incarnation of the

actually do; bartending. Let us embrace the revival

proper bartending as with any profession. A

hospitality industry. House-made syrups, fresh

of our craft while remembering its roots. Leave the

proper jigger will achieve consistency from

juices, unique herbs, exotic ingredients, and a

mixologist behind, and celebrate the bartender

cocktail to cocktail across all bartenders on your

renewed

and

within, and represent it the best way we can. If

team. A copper bar spoon or a crystal mixing

technique have elevated the simple bartender of

you’re a restaurant owner and looking to up your

glass will show guests that you are paying

old into the realm of cocktail Jedi master.

game in the bar, some research, diligence and a

attention to the details of your craft. Above all

small monetary investment can do wonders in

else, educate yourself and those around you with

redefining any beverage program.

passion. Read about cocktail history, make as

emphasis

on

showmanship

We have made impressive strides in going back to the classic methods that our bartending forefathers pioneered at the turn of the century.

differentiating

many drinks as you can and get out of your

The great Jerry Thomas, the bartending father of

improvement we can make is to commit to

comfort zone. Ascend to new heights, but do so

us all, would certainly be proud that his work

freshness. A Sunkist commercial juicer and a

while respecting the origins of the trade. The

from the late 1800s has found a new foothold in

case of fresh citrus will make immediate impact

quality of our craft, not the title, defines us.

modern day cocktail culture. Should we not

in elevating any bar program. Guest perception of

celebrate

this

renaissance

of

The

first

and

most

cocktails command better prices.

bartending

seeing your barkeep hand-juicing each piece of

enlightenment? Is it not proper cause to twirl our

fruit going into their cocktails will win your

moustaches with delight, that we have reached a

establishment instant credibility. Most prepared

new pinnacle of excellence in our drink crafting?

simple syrups are made with high fructose corn

Andrew Aoun is the wine and

Absolutely! Any reason for a celebratory beverage

syrup and have other fillers in the mix. Spend the

spirits manager for The Manzella

should be explored. With that being said, it is

extra preparation time and make your own with

Restaurant Group including

prudent to be humble in the midst of such

superfine sugar and water. Take that same syrup,

TAPS Fish House & Brewery,

newfound glory.

infuse it with an herb or a tea, and you have just

The Catch and Lillie’s Q.

ABOUT THE WRITER

HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control

The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744

MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste

21

THE BIZ: VIN

Keep it Fresh

by Sonya Kelsen

ABOUT THE WRITER Sonya grew up in the restaurant business working under her father, chef/owner of a number of restaurants in Pto. Vallarta, Mexico. She made her way to California to follow her passion for wine. In her early OC career she managed restaurants and beverage programs and became a certified sommelier. Since then Sonya has had the honor of managing distribution, sales, and marketing for a number of wineries (Turnbull Wine Cellars, Alpha Omega Winery, Quintessa, Monteverro etc.) state wide and on a national level.

Sonya is blessed enough to bring her years of experience under one roof with her husband Mike. In late 2014 they opened Colony Wine Merchant where they welcome guests as they were welcoming them into their home.

22

SUSHI MAY HAVE BEEN AMERICA’S FIRST

ask for the wine list and they say “we have

wine that is not fresh, you ask? A wine that is

EXPERIENCE WITH THE UMAMI FLAVOR

chardonnay, merlot and cabernet” out of a box --

bottled after barrel ageing then cellared for a

FOUND IN JAPANESE CUISINE. The unctuous

in the bus station no less. I know, I know -- there

time before it reaches it potential. A wine like

quality of fatty fish belly, salmon cheeks, soy

are sushi bars that have award-winning wine

that would pair perfectly with a dry aged steak,

sauce, miso glaze, fish flake and so on took us by

lists, but a 96-point Napa Cab or a barrel-

aged cheese, chocolate etc. These foods take

storm a few decades ago. But something was

fermented Chardonnay that made it on the cover

time to become what they are and pair with a

missing, the complete experience seemed to have

of WS is not going to cleanse the palate after

wine that does the same.

fallen short. Why did we not get handed a wine

getting hit with wasabi.

Sushi is all about fresh seafood, with some

list with our sushi list? Wouldn’t it have been fun

Pairing wine with sushi should be — must be

heat, some pop, some sweet, some spice and

to fill a box with an X alongside the wine you

— part of your program as a restaurant owner,

everything nice. Get fresh wines that put out the

wanted to enjoy with that roll? A refreshing beer

manager or server and must be demanded by the

heat, cleanse the palate, remind you of the ocean

or sake with sushi does make sense but what

connoisseur, consumer or casual diner. This is a

and put a smile on your face. Forgo the serious

about a vibrant Sauvignon Blanc or an off dry

simple process, I promise. Fresh fish (raw in this

reds and oaky whites and think Sauvignon Blanc,

Riesling to go what that spicy ahi roll?

instance) pairs with fresh wine. What do I mean

Pinot Gris, Albarino, Riesling, Chenin Blanc,

I love nothing more than supporting a local

by fresh wine? A wine that is bottled in its youth

Gruner Veltliner and have as much fun as those

family owned sushi bar but I just cringe when I

and meant to be consumed right away. What is a

guys behind the sushi bar.

www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016