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SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2015


RISE AND SHINE

WITH SMITHFIELD FARMLAND FOODSERVICE

If y If you’re ou’re looking looking for a smart, mouth-watering, mouth-watering, and delicious way way to start your your day, day, Smithfield S mithfield Farmland Farmland Foodservice Foodservice has got you you covered. covered. From From hand-selected cuts cuts of bacon and na naturally turally spiced lean sausage sausage to breakfast hams smoked with with real real hickory hickory smoke, F Farmland armland can hel help p you you rise and shine. For F or more informa information tion and samples samples call call your your Smithfield Smithfield Farmland Farmland broker at at Elite Elite Associates, A ssociates, Karen Ch Churchill, urchill, 714-256-8400. 714-256-8400.


FROM THE EDITOR

CONTENT INSIDE 6 NEW TALENT

THE BIZ 2 2 VIN

Meet the new faces contributing to the Great Taste of Orange County

7

Content

Pre Dinner Fun

23

THE POUR

RAISING THE BAR Sharing Fun with Friends

Tis the Season for the Beer Mug

8

ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS

Teri Williams Publisher, Proprietor & Chief Editor teri@great-taste.net

TRENDS 1 2 INTERACTIVE DINING Look who's cooking

TERI’S TAKE o you cringe when someone suggests stepping outside the box? Do you have to be forced? To some extent I think that we all do. Many local restaurants are realizing that the demographic of diners is evolving and the tried and true concepts may just need a little tweak in order to stay relevant. Diners seem to be crossing those imaginary lines at a younger age. How can you stay relevant and more importantly how can you keep those customers returning? After all, some will stand in line for several hours to bbq their own meats. How can you appeal to them? In this issue we’re digging into interactive dining. Hopefully you’ll find at least one idea that sparks a change that you can make at your restaurant to help you to further entertain this fickle audience. We’re here to spark the fire in your imagination and help keep your restaurant concept evolving! Cheers!

D

D E PA RT M E N T S 5 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH 9 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH

F E AT U R E S 1 4 SHABU SHABU Guest cooks

16

STEAM KETTLE COOKING Chef cooks

17

BEAN STEW

13 17 21

VEGAN LEMONGRASS SOUP SIBERIAN MULE SPICY SHRIMP GLASS NOODLE SALAD

TABLESIDE SERVICE Servers cook

18

RECIPES 5 KALE & GOOD MOTHER STALLARD

23

SCORPION BOWL

KOREAN + MONGOLIAN BBQ Guest cooks or Chef cooks

19

CHEF SAIFON PLEWTONG

On The Cover Chef Plewtong’s Vegan Lemongrass Soup is a delicious cornucopia that begins with her vegan, organic broth (prepared daily), and is simmered and finished with a dazzling array of seasonal organic vegetables and chili of various flavors and temperatures. As if these flavors aren’t enough, dipping sauces are also served with this hot pot dish. View the recipe for Vegan Lemongrass Soup on page 13 and another of Chef Plewtong’s delicious dishes on page 21. Photo by Michael Rutt.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2015 | great taste

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INSIDE

SINCE 2000

PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams

EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributors Chef Katie Averill Jante Diaz Sonya Kelsen Derek Sena James Wood

ART Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com

PHOTO Photography Editor Michael Rutt michael@michaelrutt.com

ADVERTISING Advertising Sales 714-960-0534

21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net

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KALE & GOOD MOTHER STALLARD BEAN STEW Recipe Courtesy of Williams-Sonoma Kitchen Prep Time: 15 minutes Cook Time: 100 minutes Servings: 4

PRODUCE PICK O F

T H E

M O N T H

Be sure to soak the beans before cooking. To soak overnight, place the beans in a large pot and add water to cover by 2 inches. The next day, drain the beans and cook as directed below. For a quick soak, place the beans in a large pot and add water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat, remove from the heat, cover the pot and let stand for 1 hour, then drain the beans and cook. To decrease the cooking time by about half, cook the soaked beans in a pressure cooker on high pressure.

INGREDIENTS 1C

Dried Good Mother Stallard beans - picked over, rinsed, soaked,

drained 1/2

Small yellow onion

1

Carrot - cut in half crosswise

1

Celery stalk - cut in half crosswise

1/4 C

Olive oil

4

Large shallots - diced

2

Carrots - diced

2

Celery stalks - diced

2

Garlic cloves - diced

1C

Dry white wine

3C

Chicken or vegetable stock

3

Fresh thyme sprigs

1

Bay leaf

1 Bunch Kale - center ribs and stems removed, leaves blanched, roughly chopped 1T

Sherry vinegar

2T

Chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as tarragon, parsley and chives Kosher salt and Freshly Ground Pepper to taste

GOOD MOTHER STALLARD BEANS

DIRECTIONS Place the beans in a large pot and add water to cover by 2 inches. Add the

EVERYONE KNOWS THE STORY OF JACK AND THE BEANSTALK however

onion, carrot and celery pieces. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat,

few people know about the Good Mother Stallard Bean! Glenn Drowns

reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the

reintroduced this heirloom variety and has brought excitement back to cooking

beans are tender, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Season with salt, then drain the beans.

with legumes. Originally from Africa, these rich, dense, nutty beans are large

Remove and discard the onion, carrot and celery. Transfer the beans to a bowl.

in size and have a creamy texture, making them an excellent addition to stews.

In a Dutch oven over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the diced

The Good Mother Stallard pod is a buttercream color and inside rests 3 to

shallots, carrots, celery and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender,

4 beans that are a deep maroon color with splashes of white. The beautiful

8 to 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the wine and simmer until

legume offers a rich, earthy flavor when standing on its own. The thick skin

the liquid is reduced, about 4 minutes.

holds the bean’s football shape and unique markings after being cooked.

Add the cooked beans, stock, thyme sprigs and bay leaf, increase the heat

Fresh Point found this tasty bean at the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market from

to medium-high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and

Two Peas Farms. This meaty bean is grown in the Central Valley’s rich soil and

simmer to meld the flavors and reduce the stock slightly, about 20 minutes.

every bean is hand-picked off the pole. Chefs highly recommend this variety

Add the kale and simmer for 5 minutes more. Remove and discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Sir in the vinegar and chopped herbs. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle the stew into warmed bowls and serve immediately.

for the hearty pot liquor and you will taste the difference! The produce hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, propagation and promotion of produce with exceptional flavor. www.theproducehunter.com.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2015 | great taste

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New Talent DIEGO LEPORINI GENERAL MANAGER, OPM RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Diego is a wine and beer connoisseur who has created wine and beer programs for a number of hotels, restaurants and bars around the world. Diego was trained by renowned chefs in the United Kingdom and U.S.A and brings extensive experience managing operations of high profile restaurants, bars and lounges to Orange County dining. Some of his previous experience includes the management of the popular Sophie’s Place in Redondo Beach, Yellow Vase Cafés in Redondo Beach and Palos Verdes, Café Buenos Aires in Santa Barbara, B@1 London, Bottle Inn Riviera in Redondo Beach, F&B Manager at Parking Hotel in London, F&B Manager at Thistle Hotel in London, GM at Oneill’s Great Marlboro St. in London, as well as part of the Slug & Lettuce Group in London. Diego has opened and designed 19 additional restaurants from the ground-up as manager, owner and/or as restaurant consultant and

is

currently

the

Director

to

Specialty

Cellars

(specialtycellars.com) a boutique wine importer and distributor and Inside the Cellars, an online-based wine and beer retail store (insidethecellar.com). Welcome Diego. Sounds like you’re a busy man.

CHARLES CHO EXECUTIVE CHEF, OPM RESTAURANT & LOUNGE A note from Chef Cho: My name is Charles Cho and I am a 33 year old South Korean American. At the age of 3 my parents moved us to Ranch Palos Verdes, CA where I grew up. After graduating high school in 1999 I fantasized about joining the culinary industry. Even though my father was hesitant he helped me enroll at Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Arts School. I appreciate my father every day because his help allowed me to find my passion early in life. Culinary school was one of the most enjoyable times of my life and after graduating I was still hungry for more. To pursue more knowledge I've trained under Chef Kyle Connaughton, Chef Michael Kang, Chef Soerke Peters, Chef Alan Wong, Chef Ritsu Osuka, and I’ve enjoyed numerous stages at Morimoto's, Providence by Michael Cimarusti, Ink by Michael Voltaggio, Redbird by Neal Fraser, and hopefully this list that also includes Noma, Eleven Madison Park, and Alinea continues to grow. I was lucky enough to be enlightened by these amazing chefs and would like nothing more than to cook for them at a restaurant of my own one day. As for now I am the Executive Chef at OPM Restaurant & Lounge in Huntington Beach. It will be 4 months since entering the OC realm and honestly I don't know what to expect! What I do know is that I will continue to love my job and I will continue to raise the bar for myself as well as the rest of my team.

OPM Restaurant & Lounge 8901 Warner Ave Huntington Beach, CA 92647

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The Pour by Jante Diaz

FALL IS HARD TO RECOGNIZE HERE IN ORANGE COUNTY, except for all the pumpkin-flavored “everythings” that have suddenly appeared, but it is that time of year. We may not be relishing in cool temperatures or admiring the multi-colored autumn leaves crunching beneath our feet, but if there’s one thing we can enjoy, it’s the seasonal beers. A lot of breweries are rolling out their own take on Märzen/Oktoberfest beers, appropriate for this fall season. Märzen’s emerged out of Munich with a bronze appearance, and a smooth and slightly sweet, toffee palette. The name Märzen comes from the German word for March, which is when the last batch would be brewed, and then tapped for the Oktoberfest festivals in September. Whip out those beer mugs; those sturdy, large glasses are perfect for these beers! Whether it is a Seidel, the German name for it, or good old-fashioned steins complete with a lid, the low-alcohol Oktoberfest beer is the perfect match for this glass. This is one of the largest glasses for beer and designed to do just that, hold large quantities of beer with enough room for a good frothy head. It even features a convenient handle to keep drinking all day long. This beer boasts caramel, malty flavors that make for a perfect match for grilled meats — steak, chicken, pork — like a German beer should — and vegetables too! It also pairs well with Mexican food, which is great for us Californians! So get yourself a barbecue going, pour yourself a beer, clank them with your fellow beer guzzlers and let out a “Prost!” Glasses should always be hand-washed very carefully. For best results, use a gentle bottlebrush. To avoid detergent residue, rinse glasses thoroughly in clean water. It is not recommended that you freeze the glass. Never drink beer out of a frosted glass. When beer hits the frozen glass, it will alter the temperature and dilute your beer, affecting the flavor.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2015 | great taste

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Happy Anniversary In the restaurant business, making it to that one-year anniversary is a huge accomplishment. In addition to the milestone first year of business, restaurants that have become a staple in the Orange County community should also be recognized and applauded for their outstanding food and service. Congratulations on your milestone birthdays. Visit great-taste.net for a comprehensive list of local restaurant anniversaries. Can’t find your restaurant’s birthday? Email info@great-taste.net and we’ll make sure to include your celebrations.

36 YEARS ANTONELLO RISTORANTE & ENOTECA LOUNGE What year did the restaurant open? October, 1979 How many owners has the restaurant had? The original owner remains — Antonio Cagnolo How many employees does the restaurant currently have? 70 To what do you attribute the popularity of the restaurant? Talented chefs, authentic Italian family recipes and a popular destination for power lunches & family get-togethers. To what do you attribute the longevity of the restaurant? Consistency What makes your restaurant unique? Unparalleled service, only the best quality ingredients and an ambiance that transports patrons to the Old World. Are there any original dishes that are still on the menu today? Rotelle pasta How are you celebrating this year? It's not a dedicated celebration for our anniversary, but in conjunction with National Breast Cancer Awareness Month in October we'll be offering a special prix-fixe menu for the entire month where 25% of proceeds will benefit THE Breast Cancer Fundraiser nonprofit.

MAKE CONTACT 3800 South Plaza Drive Santa Ana, California 92704

General Manager & Proprietor: Antonio Cagnolo Culinary Team: Co-Executive Chefs Salvatore Ferrara and Gino Buonanoce

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CHEESE PICK 20 YEARS HABANA

O F

T H E

M O N T H

PARMIGIANO REGGIANO

What year did the restaurant open? September 1995 How many owners has the hotel/restaurant had? Two from the start. Jeffrey Best and Ken Jones How many employees does the hotel/restaurant currently have? 55 To what do you attribute the popularity of the hotel/restaurant? Habana opened as a restaurant inside of The Lab, a shopping plaza in Costa Mesa locals like to call the “anti-mall”, as it caters to the lifestyles of the trend setting shopper within a relaxed, outdoor environment. In turn, the prime location, intimate and romantic décor, friendly and eclectic staff, and sprawling patio draw in a diverse crowd of regulars, young, old, and hip. The patio also serves as a regular neighborhood hangout as it often hosts BBQs and parties on national holidays. To what do you attribute the longevity of the hotel/restaurant? The longevity of Habana can be credited to the consistency of the menu and quality of service since Habana’s doors opened 20 years ago. Executive Chef Miguel Quintero and General Manager Brian Mittelman have been with Habana for 17 and 10 years, respectively, and are proud of the fact that they have maintained the quality of

PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO, A GRANA-STYLE CHEESE FROM THE PARMA

service for their tenures. Owners Jeffrey Best and Kenneth Jones are also

AREA IN ITALY, may purportedly be the world's greatest cheese. It is a

passionate about maintaining the venue’s reputation as a community staple, and

cooked, un-pressed, semi-flat, hard cheese made from raw cow's milk. This

plan to extend the restaurant’s legacy with a second location in the Irvine

cheese is encased within a yellowish-golden, slightly-oily rind, on which the

Spectrum in early 2016.

brand name “Parmigiano-Reggiano” is stenciled in small dots. Parmigiano-

What makes your hotel/restaurant unique? Unique décor including mounted

Reggiano has a nutty, savory-yet-fruity flavor, a vegetal aroma, and a

candle trees, a large patio, an authentic Cuban menu.

delicately-soft, grainy texture.

Are there any original dishes that are still on the menu today? Ropa Vieja –

Quintessential to many Italian dishes, this cheese is traditionally

Cuban shredded beef pot roast with bell peppers and onions. Marinated Roasted

manufactured by hand without any additives, this process being maintained

Half Chicken – Roasted chicken topped with pickled onions and a garlic mojo

faithfully by cheese artisans since the 12th century! Each exported

sauce. Empanadas – chicken or vegetarian which are served with a habanero

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese displays the “Protected Designation of Origin”

banana dipping sauce. Bocaditos – pastry dough stuffed with seasoned ground

(PDO) mark, which ensures that the cheese is produced in the area of origin,

beef, capers, olives, tomato, raisins topped with jalapeno cream.

and follows specific guidelines regarding what feed is used for the cow’s

How are you celebrating this year? In honor of their 20th anniversary, Habana

consumption, maintaining the quality of the cow’s milk, assuring no

celebrated with appropriate Cuban flair on Labor Day, Monday, September 7th, with

additives, and a sufficient aging process.

live music, a flamenco dancer, a whole roasted pig, pans of paella, complimentary

Scientists in Italy have studied the properties of this cheese, and have

Ropa Vieja sandwiches, house favorite cocktails, and a branded photo booth.

found that there are many amazing benefits towards including this cheese

Do you have any plans in the works for changes or expansion? Habana will be

in one’s diet. It is nutrient-rich, offering high amounts of protein, vitamins,

opening their second location in the Irvine Spectrum in early 2016. The concept

and minerals (such as calcium and phosphorus—excellent for the

and menu will essentially stay the same, but will have an addition of a Cuban

prevention of osteoporosis), is comparatively-low in cholesterol and fat

bakery. The venue will be 3x larger than the original space with an expansive

content, and is easy to digest.

outdoor patio.

MAKE CONTACT

These complex flavors, are best paired with wines that have a fairly simple structure and flavor profile. The wine should have a high enough acidity level to balance the fat content of the cheese and perhaps some

2930 Bristol Street

residual sweetness to balance its saltiness. The acidity and bubbly quality

Costa Mesa, California 92626

of sparkling wines also contrast in an enjoyable way with the savory richness of Parmigiano Reggiano.

General Manager: Brian Mittelman Executive Chef: Miguel Quintero

For more information on Zerto Parmigiano Reggiano and other cheeses contact your FreshPoint representative.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2015 | great taste

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1 YEAR MOULIN BISTRO What year did the restaurant open? September 25, 2014 How many employees does the restaurant currently have? 34. We have nearly tripled our staff since day one. Any advice or observations based on year 1? Be prepared for anything. I opened on a Thursday thinking we would have two busy days and then a quiet first weekend to recharge before the next week. When we had lines out the door on that first Saturday I realized we were in for a whole lot more than I planned for. Priorities immediately changed and I had to start hiring more people to help us meet the demand. Do you have any plans in the works for changes or expansion? We expanded from 2,300 square-feet to 4,200 square-feet last June, nine months after we opened. The expansion moved our artisan bread and pastry displays to the new side of the store along with more ovens and our épicerie, which we expanded with more sweet and savory product. This opened up space on the original side for more savory foods and a larger wine display. What is the signature dish? The Croque Madame is a top-seller, but our Poulet Frites is probably the signature dish. I buy the best chickens money can buy and we cook them in a rotissoire that I imported from France. The same ones you see on the streets of Paris. A few months ago we introduced Entrecôte Frites night on

MAKE CONTACT

Thursdays and this has become a sell-out night every week. We serve rib eye steak with a green salad,

1000 Bristol Street N.,

unlimited French fries and the classic green peppercorn and Béarnaise sauces.

Newport Beach, California 92660

How are you celebrating this year? We are having a little celebration to thank those who have helped make Moulin such a success over the past year.

General Manager: Proprietor Laurent Vrignaud Executive Chef: Jeoffrey Offer

Delivering Top Quality, Locally Grown, Safe Produce from the Farm to your Table 40 Successful Years in Foodservice! 714.696.3037 | www.familytreeproduce.com

Family Tree Produce is proud to partner with Greener Fields Together in their industry-wide sustainability and local produce initiative. Learn more at GreenerFieldsTogether.org.

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HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control

The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2015 | great taste

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TRENDS

Interactive Dining

FOODIES HAVE ALWAYS BEEN INTERESTED IN

Oyster bars like Shuck and other seafood concepts

THE MYSTERIES OF DINING AND CONTINUE TO

including TAPS Fish House & Brewery capture

BECOME MORE INTERESTED IN THE WORKS OF

audiences around the seafood bar with the flick of

THE KITCHEN AND HOW ITEMS ARE PREPARED.

the knife and the number of sushi restaurants with

And you, the restaurateur is tasked with captivating

your favorite itamae continues to grow and become

that audience in a market fraught with countless

more popular every day. Teppan Tables host groups of

dining options in both the fast casual and full

hungry diners for fresh grilled options. Though they

service arenas.

may be fewer in number I'm sure you can still find a

AT GASLAMP STRIP CLUB, an informal “grill your own”

few that toss shrimp into the mouths of their hungry

lounge with a decidedly cheeky ambiance and an

audience while demonstrating their knife skills.

impressive collection of pin-up artwork by Alberto Varga, as

Open kitchens where you see the action, have been on trend for over a decade and the numbers continue

GASLAMP STRIP CLUB

to grow. There was quite a buzz when Napa Rose

Back in the day at the previous location of The

opened with that beautiful open kitchen and the

Catch large steam kettles on display captivated the

"chef's table" with stools up close to all the action.

audience and now, at other restaurants, individual,

Guests choose from a menu of different center-of-the-

Years before that remember the awe as a kid at the

jacketed steam kettles dish delicious meals to diners

plate cuts — including skirt steak, filet mignon, bone-in

pizza parlor as the pizziola tossed the dough in the

at the surrounding bar.

ribeye and top sirloin. After placing an order with their

air? Buffets have long been a source of entertainment

well as a “risqué” signature cocktail menu you’ll find a unique kind of menu.

server, guests are served the uncooked cuts and then go to

with their steamship carving boards, omelette bars

ENGAGE THE CUSTOMER

a grill station to grill their own dish to their liking. At the

and waffle stations. Steak grills have always held

Many options are available to actually prepare your

grill stations, there are instructions for recommended

fascination as oil was added to the fire solely for the

own food. We've had offerings in the mix for

cooking times for different cuts, seasoning suggestions and

guests enjoyment and now, you can see anything and

centuries including Korean BBQ and Shabu Shabu.

sauce/condiment options. It’s a social & interactive

everything prepared counter-side; Waffles to Wagu.

Fondue and hot rock cooking methods have come

atmosphere. Side are delivered to the table after the cooks

and gone through several cycles with very few venues

return.

EXPLORE THE POSSIBILITIES

remaining though Yojie, a growing Japanese concept

Perfect for a sensual evening of cocktails on the outdoor

Tableside preparations have evolved from the days of

markets Shabu Shabu Japanese Fondue and it’s

patio or for a late night dining experience, Gaslamp Strip

Caesar Salad and Steak Diane and now smoky

gaining popularity. Shall we call it Shabudu?

Club offers a full-service lounge menu, an extravagant

illusions are being created mid dining room using the

The latest 21 and over, cook your own concept is

assortment of vodka martinis and imported wines —

latest techniques, dry ice and sometimes chemicals

The Gaslamp Strip Club where you "grill-your-own"

including “The Dirty 30” menu, which features 30 bottle

to prepare cocktails and deserts creating a buzz on

from a menu that includes steaks, seafood, chicken,

selections for under $35. A private champagne room with

the floor. Though fewer in number in recent years, the

burgers, and appetizer skewers served with

an individual grill is available providing the perfect

small hibachi style grills rage for diners that want to

traditional sides has just emerged to keep diners

atmosphere for birthdays, bachelor or bachelorette parties,

cook their own appetizers. If fire is your passion you

entertained.

as well as team building events for convention groups of up

can have your dessert brulee'd at the table or you can create your own s'mores over a small grill.

12

Whatever your pleasure or your pain there is an interactive dining concept to match your mood.

www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2015

to 30 people. www.gaslampsteak.com


TRENDS

VEGAN LEMONGRASS SOUP By Chef Saifon Plewtong, True Seasons Organic Kitchen

SPICY LEMONGRASS SOUP BASE

Chef’s Note: Enjoy my oil, dairy and gluten free

1/4 C

Lemongrass - chopped

recipe with no sugar added. You can substitute or

3t

Garlic

change any vegetables that you like.

1t

Coriander seed (dry)

SERVES 2 ORGANIC VEGETABLES 1/2 C

2t

Sea salt

5

Kaffir lime leaves

1

Tumaric (small root)

1

Galangal - cut in 3 small pieces

Kumbucha squash - cut into 3/4 inch

Fresh lime juice

thick slices

1/2 C

Guajillo dry chili pepper (5 large peppers)

1/2 C

Butternut squash - cut into 3/4 inch

1/2

Cup water

1C

Kale - chopped

METHOD

1C

Red Chard - chopped

Mixed all above in vita mix for about 2 minutes.

1/2 C

Carrot - diced

2t

Green onion - chopped

1/2 C

Zucchini - sliced

1

Purple onion - cut in to 3/4inch thick

more sour taste, and more fresh Chili or Chili powder

1/4 C

Cilantro - finely chopped for garnish

for extra spice.

thick slices

Boil 3 cups of water, add soup base mixture and all vegetables. Season to taste with more lime or lemon juice for

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2015 | great taste

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F E AT U R E

Shabu Shabu

HISTORY Shabu-shabu was introduced in Japan in the 20th century with the opening of the restaurant "Suehiro" in Osaka, where the name was invented. Its origins are traced back to the Chinese hot pot known as instant-boiled mutton (Shuàn Yángròu). Shabu-shabu is most similar to the original Chinese version when compared to other Japanese dishes. The Chinese hot pot has a history of more than 1,000 years and seems to have originated in Mongolia and the Jin Dynasty where the main Engaged Diners Enjoy at True Seasons Organic Kitchen Photo by Michael Rutt

ingredient was meat, usually beef, mutton or horse. It then spread to southern China during the

SHABU-SHABU (ALSO SPELLED SHYABU-SHYABU) IS A JAPANESE DISH FEATURING THINLY

Tang Dynasty and was further established during

SLICED BEEF BOILED IN WATER. The term is an onomatopoeia, derived from the sound emitted

the Mongolian Yuan Dynasty. In time, regional

when the ingredients are stirred in the cooking pot. Thinly sliced meat and vegetables are served

variations developed with different ingredients

with dipping sauces.

such as seafood. By the Qing Dynasty (AD 1644 to

Hot pot, (also known as steamboat in Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, the Philippines and

1912), the hot pot became popular throughout

Brunei), refers to several East Asian but most often refers to the Chinese variety of stew, consisting

most of China. Today in many modern homes,

of a simmering metal pot of stock at the center of the dining table. While the hot pot is kept

particularly in the big cities, the traditional coal-

simmering, ingredients are placed into the pot and are cooked at the table. Typical hot pot dishes

heated steamboat or hot pot has been replaced by

include thinly sliced meat, leaf vegetables, mushrooms, wontons, egg dumplings, and seafood.

electric, propane, butane gas, or induction cooker

Vegetables, fish and meat should be fresh.

versions.

TRUE SEASONS ORGANIC KITCHEN What style do you serve/prepare? We offer organic hot pot. What is the style of cooking? It’s soup cooked in a hot pot at the table with a variety of fresh ingredients and flavorful dipping sauces. What sets that style of cooking apart from mainstream full service restaurants? It is free of oil and dairy, it can be gluten free and modified for many food sensitivities and it’s fun and interactive, as guests mix and match different ingredients to their liking. Guests see the fresh ingredients come together to create exciting and delicious flavors. It’s a great way to enjoy the flavors of truly fresh and quality ingredients, as there is so little processing of the food. What sets your restaurant apart in the marketplace of restaurants with the same style of cooking? With very few exceptions, all our food is organic, with non-GMO ingredients from local sustainable growers. We match the quality of the ingredients with a high level of service and a passionate knowledge of the food and where it comes from. We love to share with our guests why the food they are enjoying is not only delicious, but also thoughtfully sourced, clean and healthy. What is the average cover per person including drinks? $25

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Fly-N-Fish


F E AT U R E

PREPARATION These dishes were originally made with thinly sliced beef, but some menus today offer pork, crab, chicken, lamb, duck, or lobster. Most often, ribeye steak is used, but less tender cuts, such as top sirloin, are also common. A more expensive meat, such as wagy큰, may also be used. It is usually served with tofu and vegetables, including Chinese cabbage, chrysanthemum leaves, nori (edible seaweed), onions, carrots, and mushrooms. In some places, udon, mochi or harusame noodles may also be served. Meat or vegetables are loaded individually into the hot cooking water or dashi (broth) by chopsticks, and cooking time can take from 1 to 15 minutes, depending on the type of food. Meat should be cooked at the very least 20 seconds depending on the thickness of meat. Broth selections vary and can include miso, lemongrass, mushroom, and kelp. The cooking pot is often sunk into the table and fueled by propane. Or alternatively above the table and fueled by a portable butane gas stove or hot coals.

SAUCES AND DIPS

Brunos Italian Kitchen

Sauces can be used to dip meats and vegetables when eating shabu-shabu or hot pot and they vary between the locations of origin and the whims of the restaurateurs. Sauces include ponzu, goma (sesame) and pomegranate. Condiment options such as spring onions and Japanese pickled carrots are also often offered so that customers can make the sauce according to their own preferences. Cooked meat and vegetables are usually dipped in ponzu or goma (sesame seed) sauce before eating, and served with a bowl of steamed white rice. Once the meat and vegetables have been eaten, leftover broth from the pot is customarily combined with the remaining rice, and the resulting soup is usually eaten last. Source: wikipedia.org

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F E AT U R E

Steam Kettle Cooking RITTER’S CHEF MIKE RITTER At Ritter's, we cook your entrée right in front of you, in jacketed steam kettles. These kettles cook the food evenly and quickly in individual kettles. What style do you serve/prepare? We serve Authentic Cajun / Creole Southern Dishes. Please describe the style of cooking: All of our Dishes are prepared and cooked in our jacketed steam kettles. It is a quick and efficient way to cook the food that makes it near impossible to over-cook or burn the dishes due to the temperature and surface area. The style was first developed on Civil war era Naval ships as a method of cooking that did not involve any open flames. Steam Kettle cooking. Photo by Bombo

What sets that style of cooking apart from mainstream full service restaurants? We offer a culinary style almost

IN THE EARLY 2000’S THE CATCH AT THE ORIGINAL LOCATION AND WITH IT’S CURRENT

unheard of in Southern CA. Chef Ritter's 30 years of

OWNER JOE MANZELLA JACKETED STEAM KETTLES WERE FRONT AND CENTER in the

developing and perfecting his recipes has made for an

entrance to the restaurant. We’re not sure why, but when The Catch relocated those beautiful steam

unparalleled and authentic culinary experience. Also, we do

jacketed kettles didn’t make the cut. Now Chef Mike Ritter is re-introducing steam kettle cooking

not pre-make any of our dishes. Everything you see is

to Orange County with Ritter’s Steam Kettle Cooking locations in Santa Ana and Huntington Beach.

cooked from raw with fresh products directly in front of the

Chef Mark Peel has reintroduced the cooking method to Los Angeles at Bombo.

customer from start to finish, with their own level of spice. What sets your restaurant apart in the marketplace of

CHEF MARK PEEL FROM BOMBO

restaurants with the same style of cooking? Chef Ritter was

Bombo is Chef Mark Peel’s first ever fast casual venture. He has brought his pedigree in fine dining and as one of

recipes at the famous Oyster Bar at Palace Station and he’s

the father’s of California cuisine to an eatery where most of the dishes are cooked in steam kettles with his own

responsible for bringing this cooking style to Southern

custom made broths. All the dishes are steeped in bold flavor with fresh, seasonal ingredients.

California.

one of the original Chefs to help create and develop the

Chef Peel uses steel-jacketed steam kettles to prepare his vibrant food. Bombo dishes are very healthy because of the ingredients used and the way the food is cooked — less fat is needed to cook the food with the steam kettles.

Generally we see and average of $20-$28 per person.

The dishes are cooked and served in moments, but the broths that they are cooked in take hours of preparation.

Customers generally don't just dine with us once. More

Set on a stainless steel counter, six steam kettles are front and center in the bright, open kitchen, which provides

often than not, they make a point to bring in their friends

diners some culinary theatre and a behind-the-scenes look at how Chef Peel runs his kitchen.

or family soon after trying our food. The friendly service

What sets that style of cooking apart from mainstream full service restaurants? Most of the cooking is in steam

staff and cooks also make an effort to get to know every

kettles. The food is delivered much faster than a full service restaurant and with less fat.

regular, to make them feel at home.

What sets your restaurant apart in the marketplace of restaurants with the same style of cooking? Bombo’s location

Ritter told the OC Weekly that a large boiler in the back

at Grand Central Market in downtown Los Angeles allows Chef Peel to eliminate the trappings of fine dining and

pumps the steam through a network of pipes eventually

get right to the food, interacting with his diners. Chef Peel believes that food doesn’t have to be expensive to be

ending up heating up the row of 12 stainless-steel kettles.

good. Most of the cooking is done for all to see in the kettles on the stainless steel counter, providing a bit of

Ritter then revealed that the units cost $3,000 each. Is it

entertainment and moving the preparation and cooking out from behind the scenes.

really that efficient? Is it really that much better than

What is the average cover per person including drinks? $16

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What is the average cover per person including drinks?

www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2015

Cha Cha's Latin Kitchen

cooking on a regular stove? Ritter says yes.


F E AT U R E

Tableside Service JOE MANZELLA, OWNER-FOUNDER OF TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY, HAS BEEN A BIG FAN OF TABLESIDE SERVICE FOR YEARS. A favorite haunt of his was the nowshuttered Riviera Restaurant. He first incorporated touches of the retro approach when he reopened The Catch in Anaheim in 2010. Then when conceptualizing his newest location in Irvine, Joe set the goal to incorporate cart service to enhance the guest experience even with the challenge of the high volume at TAPS restaurants. With the help of his team, he made it happen and the tableside offerings at all of his locations have grown — from liquid nitrogen cocktails to salads tossed tableside, flambed appetizers and a sundae for two. Rumor has it that there may be a tableside entree or two in the works.

TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY At lunch the Veracruz Chopped Salad and The Cobb salad are offerred. Caesar Salads, including making the dressing tableside are done at dinner only. The Sizzling Japanese Hamachi is fired tableside and we also prepare the cocktail sauce for the Colossal Prawn Cocktail tableside using six ingredients

Siberian Mule prepared tableside at TAPS Irvine. Photos by A Boring Photo

(ketchup, Atomic horseradish, cracked pepper, squeezed lemon, Worcestershire). The Siberian Mule, one of our original craft cocktails is prepared tableside and for dessert, we have our version of the Sundae for Two and we also torch creme brûlées at the table. What sets that style of service apart from mainstream full service restaurants? The instant freshness or finishing of the dish at your seat versus in the kitchen, where it can sit for several minutes is key with many salads, especially Caesars, which suffer from wilted romaine if not brought to the table immediately. The finishing or preparing at the table is also a fun visual for the guests, who for the most part really have no idea how their food is prepared and what its composition is. They are always fascinated and entertained. What is the average price of a tableside item? They range from $15-20. One fan of TAPS tableside service is Chef Jamie Gwen. She comes back just for the cocktail sauce on the prawn cocktail at our new location in Irvine.

SIBERIAN MULE Created by: Andrew Aoun, Manzella Restaurant

4 dashes Angostura bitters

Group wine & spirits manager

2 oz

Ginger beer Garnish: mint, lime

2 oz

Vodka

1/2 oz

Fresh-squeezed lime juice

Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker.

1/4 oz

2:1 simple syrup

Shake with ice and fine strain into a chilled

1/8 oz

Yuzu (Japanese citrus)

coupe glass. Add 2 ounces of ginger beer

1/8 oz

Ginger juice (fresh ginger, peeled,

and garnish with a fresh mint sprig and

blended with water and strained)

lime wheel.

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F E AT U R E

Korean + Mongolian BBQ MONGOLIAN

Photo by Allen Taylor Photography

AT MONGOLIAN BARBECUE RESTAURANTS typically, diners choose various ingredients from a display of thinly sliced raw meats (beef, pork, lamb, turkey, chicken, shrimp) and vegetables (cabbage, tofu, sliced onion, cilantro, broccoli, and mushrooms, pineapple, lychee), and put them in a bowl or on a plate. These ingredients are given to the griddle operator who adds the diner's choice of sauce and transfers them to one section of the hot griddle. Oil and sometimes water may be added to ease cooking, and the ingredients are stirred occasionally. The ample size of the Mongolian barbecue griddle allows for several diners' food to be cooked simultaneously on different parts of the griddle. Each dish will be stirred in its turn, as the operator walks around the outside of the grill and turns each individual diner's food in succession. When cooking is complete, each finished dish is scooped into a bowl and handed to the diner. Many Mongolian barbecue restaurants feature an “all-you-can-eat� buffet format.

Photo by Allen Taylor Photography

KOREAN THE TERM KOREAN BARBECUE REFERS TO THE KOREAN METHOD OF ROASTING BEEF, PORK, CHICKEN, OR OTHER TYPES OF MEAT. Such There are many options in Orange County and surrounds for Korean and Mongolian BBQ and

dishes are prepared at the diner's table on gas or

Food Blogger Anita Lau recommends Go Goo Ryeo in Garden Grove and Gen Korean BBQ in Tustin.

charcoal grills that are built into the table itself. Can be served or buffet where you see an array of

Source: Wikipedia.org

18

www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2015

ingredients from which you make your selection


CHEF DE CUISINE

Photos by Michael Rutt

Chef Saifon Plewtong by Chef Katie Averill IN AN UNASSUMING LOCATION IN ANAHEIM, CHEF SAIFON PLEWTONG

quiet, she talks up a storm about her organic lifestyle and ways. No corners

HAS CREATED A RESTAURANT THAT TRANSPORTS YOU TO ANOTHER

are cut at True Seasons Organic Kitchen; Chef Saifon pressed cane sugar

PLACE AS SOON AS YOU WALK THROUGH THE DOOR. There is a mellow,

drinks right in front of our eyes in a crusher sourced from Miami, making her

ethereal calming feeling to the dark room lit here and there with warm

signature drink. She then proceeded to hand grind sesame seeds as a final

yellowy lights. The music is peaceful and the aromas from the interactive

flavorful flourish on our dishes. While her food cost may be out of balance,

open hot pot embrace you immediately. Originally from Thailand, Chef

it is to the benefit of the customer who can trust not even her soy sauce has

Saifon has successfully created a Thai ambiance and I, for one, want to stay.

preservatives or a drop of gluten.

The chef with her grounded, quiet presence makes us feel at ease. There is

On one side of the room is a huge bounty of endless fresh organic

no doubt that she has the respect of everyone who works for her with their

produce; many squash varieties, cabbage, kale, onion, winter melon and

“yes chef”, “no chef” treatment of her. While at first blush she may seem

lemongrass….you can see her wheels turn as she chooses exactly what she

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2015 | great taste

19


CHEF DE CUISINE

wants you to try as if she has never quite made any dish this way before. She has handpicked these special ingredients for you today. She instructs you to put all the amazing vegetables into the pot to create a broth for the beautiful thinly sliced chicken, grass fed beef, shrimp and even scallops. As you eat, she explains how each vegetable benefits your body so you can’t help but feel like you are nourishing yourself and treating your body well. As a single mom with two children, Chef Saifon seems to have found a balance that few chefs can claim. She doesn’t want to be “that chef” with glazed-over eyes who works 14 hours a day and goes through the motions not really experiencing life. Somewhere between her faith and obvious crazy love for her children and True Seasons, she seems to have it all. Her faith has brought her to her charitable work with The Free Pantry where she provides healthy, organic food to those who are less fortunate in a non-canned, nonprocessed manner. She sees that the snowball is forming as media and foodies and a possible second location all seem to be cropping up at once. It is commendable that she never hears customers say “too salty, too sweet, too this or that because it is all pure ingredients that speak for themselves”. With a very genuine spirit, her parting words were, I know where my chickens come from and I know where my eggs come from. Honestly how many of us chefs can say that? This is a unique chef who delivers.

From the Chef’s Mouth HOURS YOU WORK IN A WEEK 55-60.

FAVORITE COOKWARE Anything stainless steel.

TRUE SEASONS ORGANIC KITCHEN

1ST COOKING RELATED MEMORY I grew up on a

FAVORITE SPICE Lemongrass and sea salt.

5675 E La Palma Ave, Anaheim, CA 92807

farm in Thailand. I was fascinated by food and

FAVORITE RAW INGREDIENT Sugarcane

trueseasonskitchen.com

cooking right away, but my parents wouldn’t allow

BIGGEST MYTH ABOUT WORKING IN THE

me in the kitchen (a cultural issue). I would watch

KITCHEN Because of TV, people think it has to be

HOURS

my family’s helpers cook from afar and finally my

an angry, emotion-filled and stressful environment,

Mon. – Thurs. 11 am-9 pm

parents allowed me to have a play cook set. I

when in fact it can be a peaceful, calm,

Fri. 11 am-9:30 pm

started growing my own vegetables and sharing the

professional space for a team to work together to

Sat. 12 pm-9:30 pm

food I cooked with anyone I could to see if they

create something great.

Sun. 12 pm-9 pm

liked it. Of course, they all said they loved it!

SIGNATURE DISH Spicy lemongrass soup.

FIRST JOB Food Prep in a friend’s restaurant.

FAMILY I’m the proud mother of two boys, Carlton

AVERAGE COVER

FIRST INTERESTED YOU IN THE HOSPITALITY

(17) and Chandler (10).

Lunch $16

INDUSTRY I love food, farming and all things

FAVORITE OC RESTAURANT Mosaic at Montage

Dinner $21

relating to food.

Laguna Beach

HOBBIES Golf, yoga, walking at the beach. Always

CULINARY EDUCATION A Private tutor in Thailand

in “need” of a great massage!

WORDS THAT BEST DESCRIBE YOUR CULINARY

FAVORITE KITCHEN TOOL My Knife.

STYLE Organic, Spicy, Simple

HE

F ST O

didn't design our body to only drink juice. A good diet is healthy eating and enjoying the food God made for our body. FOOD

I get sick sometimes if I'm not careful. My recommendation is don't eat all of your food when eating out — enjoy small bites.”

SPO

is healing medicine for our body. I love to eat and I love to try other chefs' food. I love visiting other restaurants even though

* N

ABOUT THE WRITER Chef Katie Averill Katie@eatstreetculinary.com (714) 563-2334 EAT STREET 270 S. Clementine St. Anaheim, Ca 92805

20

www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2015

FAMIL Y TREE PRODU CE

* Y

“Healthy is beautiful, eat a well-balanced diet. I don't believe in diets that don't allow you to eat or only allow juice. God

RY

C

FAVORITE KITCHEN APPLIANCE My Blender.

SO

B RED


CHEF DE CUISINE

GLASS NOODLE SHRIMP SALAD CHEF’S NOTE: This recipe is oil and gluten free and can also be all vegan with the use of organic non-GMO tofu. Please use all organic if possible. SERVES 2 2.8 oz

Mung bean noodle (bean thread) - soaked in warm water for 2 min

Place shrimp in pot of water and bring to boil.

8

Wild caught raw shrimp

Cook shrimp for 1 minute, remove from boiling water and place in a large bowl.

8

Shallots - chopped

Use same pot of boiling water to cook glass noodles for 35 seconds.

2t

Basil – approximately 8-10 small leaves. Thai basil is preferable

Reduce heat, drain noodles, and rinse with cold water, place in the bowl with

1t

Red chili pepper powder

cooked shrimp.

2t

Fresh lime juice

Combine all prepped ingredients and add to noodles and shrimp.

2t

Sea salt

Mix well and serve. Adjust to taste with more lime juice, salt or extra spicy chili.

2t

Pomegranate juice

2t

Fresh garlic - peeled and finely chopped Red onion - coarsely chopped

2t

Green onion (white and green parts) – chopped

2t

Fresh cilantro

1/2 C

Fresh carrot - julienned

Photo by Michael Rutt

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2015 | great taste

21


THE BIZ: VIN

ABOUT THE WRITER Sonya grew up in the restaurant business working under her father, chef/owner of a number of restaurants in Pto. Vallarta, Mexico. She made her way to California to follow her passion for wine. In her early OC career she managed restaurants and beverage programs and became a certified sommelier. Since then Sonya has had

An Interactive Wine Experience

the honor of managing distribution, sales, and marketing for a number of wineries (Turnbull Wine Cellars, Alpha Omega Winery, Quintessa, Monteverro etc.) state wide and on a national level. Sonya is blessed enough to bring her years of experience under one roof with her husband Mike. In late 2014 they opened Colony Wine Merchant where they welcome guests as they were welcoming them into

by Sonya Kelsen

their home.

SINCE INTERACTIVE DINING IS SUCH AN IMPORTANT

PART

OF

THE

SO

CAL

RESTAURANT SCENE, one must not think of it as dining only. Your beverage program should be just as exciting. With the craft cocktail movement, bartenders have done an outstanding job of making beverages interactive with their choice of fresh ingredients, spirits, muddlers, ice cubes, glassware etc. The new generation of mixologists are educated, talented and can put on quite a show. But what about the wine program? An interactive wine program takes a host of industry people and lots of scheduling but is well worth the effort. Get your distributor and broker sales representative involved with hosting wine tastings. Add wine flights to your list and change them up regularly. Most importantly, put a winemaker event calendar together. Have your favorite winemaker host a dinner or wine tasting not only to talk about his or her wines, but also to engage all of the senses. Ask for barrel samples from the winery and grape clusters from the vineyards. Have them put soil from various vineyard blocks in containers so your guests can see the differences. You may also consider a blending session so the winemaker can walk your guests through how he or she chooses varietals and percentages before bottling the final blend. Wine is meant to be enjoyed with all senses so touching the fruit off the vine, seeing various soils, tasting an unfinished wine out of barrel and hearing about it straight from the winemaker (vineyard manager or owner) will give your guests an unforgettable experience. All this before dinner is served! Interactive indeed.

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www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2015


THE BIZ: RAISING THE BAR

Sharing: Fun with Friends by James Wood

SCORPION BOWL

RECENTLY I HAD A CONVERSATION WITH A

the 1930’s however the first instance of the

PERSON WHO PRIDES THEMSELVES ON

drink in print was by Trader Vic in Oakland

WRITING REVIEWS for an online site that will

sometime

remain nameless (I’m sure you can figure out

concoction is sure to put you in the right frame

which one). After about twenty minutes of

of mind. The drink was designed to be shared

hearing their criteria for the stars they hand out,

and traditionally will be served in a giant 48oz

INGREDIENTS

I posed a simple question: “So, who do you visit

ceramic bowl. Nothing brings people together

10 oz

Rum, añejo (or 151 proof rum)

these restaurants with?” I wasn’t really surprised

like sucking high proof rum through long straws

2 oz

Cognac

to find out that they go with another friend

with friends.

3 oz

Orgeat

simply to “review” an establishment. To me I felt

Another favorite shareable cocktail has its origins

4 oz

Lemon juice

that they had really missed the mark about what

in Spain. The origins of the drink are unknown

3 oz

Orange juice

makes going out fun so it got me thinking. Why

but it is named after the Spanish word for blood,

GARNISH

even bother to go if you are not going to enjoy it

“Sangre” due to its deep red color. In Spain,

Freshly grated cinnamon, cinnamon sticks,

with friends and family.

when it is time for tapas (which generally starts

grapefruit peel, orchids and/or flaming lime shell

Restaurants and bars are places of social

at 4pm) you will find pitcher upon pitcher being

GLASSWARE

gatherings. Whether you are celebrating or

passed around the table while patrons move

Mug or punch bowl

commiserating, we tend to gravitate to these

around the bar snacking and socializing. Sangria

METHOD

places to share stories, jokes and experiences

is a simple but potent concoction of red wine,

1. Add all ingredients to a blender with 1 cup of

with each other. There are lots of different types

citrus fruit, brandy and a sweetener. I remember

crushed ice.

of establishments from the fine dining to the

my first experience with Sangria as a sixteen year

2. Blend quickly and pour into a Scorpion bowl,

casual,

the

old on a field trip to Barcelona with my school.

or portion out into individual tiki mugs.

experimental, but they all have one common

Lucky for everyone on that trip the drinking age

3. Add several large ice cubes to bowl or mugs.

denominator and that is us. Samuel Pepyes once

is sixteen and we had a very liberal teacher as a

4. To garnish, add freshly grated cinnamon,

described the pub as “The heart of England”

chaperone. Needless to say I have been in love of

cinnamons sticks, a grapefruit peel or orchids.

which, having spent a good chunk of my youth

the Sangria ever since.

5. For a flaming lime shell, invert half of a lime and

there is a very true statement.

As culinary trends start to focus on shareable

place in the volcano of a Scorpion bowl, or atop an

So what better way to rally the crew together?

items and creating a more social atmosphere,

individual cocktail. Pour in a splash of overproof

Two words: Shareable cocktails. First up is the

adding similar style drinks to your menu will

rum, and carefully light with a match or a lighter.

Scorpion Bowl. It is rumored that this drink was

bring people together. Although instead of a

6. Be sure to extinguish flaming life shell before

created at a bar in Honolulu called The Hut in

dinner table you have a Scorpion Bowl.

attempting a sip. Serve with straws.

from

the

drinking

only

to

around

the

1940’s.

This

rum

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Great Taste Magazine September October 2015 Issue