UK Kit Car Guide 2015

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Guide Cover 2015:Layout 1



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UKKITCAR guide CARS•PARTS•IVA•INSURANCE•REGISTRATION 0 Over 5 rs t ca differen uild b you can e! at hom

KIT CARS Profiles on the UK’s top kit cars PARTS Over 200 suppliers Find a part here

NEW FOR 2015

Cobra Replicas Bodykits

INSURANCE Get it covered IVA Latest guidelines Classic Replicas Sevenesque Replicas

REGISTRATION Your options outlined QR CODES Watch video clips and visit websites





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The new 2015 edition of the UK Kit Car Guide is packed with additional interactivity, and you can enjoy it whether you have the paper version or digital app.

HOW TO USE YOUR PAPER GUIDE... • QR CODE READER If you don’t already have one on your phone or tablet, download a free QR reader from the app store. • ENJOY ADDITIONAL FEATURES Now you have your QR reader, you are ready to enjoy a host of additional features throughout the Guide. Keep your eyes open for the codes in features and on all the manufacturer pages to watch movie clips or go straight to relevant web pages. Simple!

HOW TO USE YOUR DIGITAL GUIDE... QR code in magazine becomes an in-App ‘Play Button’ linking to movie footage or the manufacturer’s website – just tap the QR code to launch.

Email and web addresses become live links – tap to bring up email dialogue box or go straight to a company’s website.

If you want to zoom in on text or pictures, simply double tap anywhere on the screen or ‘pinch’ as per normal.

You the a can buy pp the G version o f uide f your app s rom t Andr ore – o (sear id or App le ch ‘C o Kit C mplete ar’)

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What’s Inside... 4 HOMEWORK

A kit car build is a big commitment, both financially and timewise. Here’s our guide to getting it right.


Here’s our beginners’ guide to sorting our your workspace, the tools you must have, and how to budget for your impending build.


It may be the product of choice for kit car bodywork, but fibreglass is also a product that you can use at home.


An instant page reference for all the cars featured in the guide, arranged into different model types... Cobras, sevenesque etc.


An instant page reference for all the cars featured in the Guide, arranged into alphabetical order.

35-86 KIT CARS

Profiles on over 50 of the UK’s top kit car companies. Your next project could be in these pages.


Our beginners’ guide to kit car insurance. The types of cover available and how to get the best quote.


An invaluable directory of over 200 companies that you may want to contact during your build.

106 IVA

An introduction and overview of IVA and the various areas of the test that your car must go through.


We follow our own CKC project car, as it goes through a full IVA test. Here’s what it’s really like.


Even if you build a panel kit, you’ll still need to change the identity of the car. Here’s how.


Confused by some of the technical words we use in the guide? Here’s what we mean. A massive listing of all the kit car clubs in the UK and abroad. Get in touch and benefit from their experience.

THE UK KIT CAR GUIDE TEAM ASSISTANT EDITOR Ian Stent ADVERTISING SALES Karen O’Riordan PROOF READING Andy Bliss Sorry, but lack of time prevents us answering technical queries over the phone. We would much prefer you contact us by e-mail. While every effort is made in compiling the editorial and accepting only bona fide advertisements in the UK Kit Car Guide, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any effects arising therefrom. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or manual, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system without prior permission in writing from the publisher.

Welcome to the 2015 UK Kit Car Guide. This annual reference to our scene not only profiles some of the most exciting cars you can build at home and subsequently love owning, but also many of the other key elements to building and driving a kit car today. So you’ll find a massive parts directory to help you locate the perfect part for a job, and several ‘beginners’ guides’ which give you the knowledge you need regarding insurance, registration and, vitally, Individual Vehicle Approval (IVA). This isn’t just a guide to the cars, but to the whole world they inhabit. As you are obviously reading this, you’ve already made your choice with regards opting for a conventional paper product or utilising the electronic version via the Complete Kit Car digital app. Either way, you can take advantage of a large number of fantastic movie clips, either by tapping the play button on relevant pages of the app, or by scanning the QR codes in the paper version via your smartphone or tablet (download a QR reader for free from your app store). As you’ll find out when looking through the guide, there are cars to suit every budget, every skill level and every type of end use you can think of... off-road, on track, traditional, modern, replica or original. There’s something for everyone and almost certainly something for you. The UK Kit Car Guide is here to inform and inspire you. We hope it may be your stepping stone to an immensely rewarding and exciting new hobby, where you gain the confidence to stop just thinking about it, and actually start building your own car, in your own garage. Go for it! Adam Wilkins Editor

HOW TO CLAIM YOUR FREE CALENDAR online at We have a free Complete Kit Car 2015 calendar for every reader of the UK Kit Car Guide. It’s a top quality production that’s too big to insert into this publication, so to get your hands on your copy head to and fill out your claim form using your unique claim code on the right. The calendar includes 2014’s kit car show dates and the on-sale dates of Complete Kit Car magazine – so it’s useful as well as decorative! Offer closes 31st October 2015

GRAPHICS & DTP: Panda Creative Ltd. Worthing, West Sussex. T: 01903 531531. E: UK KIT CAR GUIDE 2015 PUBLISHED BY: Performance Publishing Ltd. T: 01823 617908 E: A: Performance Publishing, Unit G Acorn Business Centre, Livingstone Way, Taunton, Somerset TA2 6BD. © Copyright Performance Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved.

ISBN 978-0-9557418-8-3



Unique claim code: CKC 0 097 4 71 F L



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HOMEWORK Choosing your car Before you go any further, read our beginners’ guide to choosing the right kit car project.


he UK Kit Car Guide is so much more than just a shop window to the various models currently on offer from manufacturers around the UK. Not only does it showcase some of the UK’s most exciting cars, but it also talks you through the complexities of getting it through Individual Vehicle Approval (IVA), registration and then insuring it once it’s complete and legal. Elsewhere in the Guide you’ll find advice on making your garage kit car friendly, what tools you’ll need for the job, and how to compare the costs of building one car against another. We’ve even created an Excel spreadsheet for you! But before all of these things, you’ve first got to decide whether or not building a car is really for you and, if it is, what sort of kit car you should be considering. So, in this article, we get you asking yourself some tough questions. Let the selfinterrogation begin!


Do you need to be a seasoned mechanic to take on a kit car build? Surely you must need at least a modicum of technical know-how? Not really. While there’s no doubt that having a basic understanding of how a car works will help in the build, we’ve met plenty of first-time kit car builders who previously ran company cars and barely knew how to change a wheel. If you seriously doubt your own ability, then there are two ways of finding out whether you have what it takes. Firstly, you can buy a road-going donor car for the kit you fancy building, and then spend some time running and servicing it. If you don’t want to see another spanner after a month or two, you can always sell the car and lose nothing. Secondly, you could always buy a pre-built kit car from the classifieds. Running a kit car and tweaking the work someone else has done will also soon reveal whether building something is for you. It’ll also

Above: Even if you don’t have masses of experience, there are usually friends who can help.

show you things you may want to include in your own car, as well as things you want to leave out! And again, you can always sell it on if the experience isn’t a good one.


If you decide that you do want a kit car, then you need to think carefully about what sort of car you want. The supercar replica you’ve dreamed of since childhood may simply be

Below: You may be dreaming of a supercar, but can you afford it?


out of your budget, while the bike-engined sevenesque car you fancy may be completely impractical for your needs. So be realistic about what you’re after. If you fancy taking it on longer journeys then the bike option may not be practical, since they are perfect for local blasts and trips to the track. The same question may also throw up considerations of whether you want a soft-top for protection against the elements, which will in turn mean you’ll

Below: Something more modest, such as this RTR Rocket, may be more in budget.


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need a full windscreen in place of the minimal aero-screens that have become so popular. Other factors that will affect your choices might include decisions on cockpit space, available legroom if you are particularly tall, whether you want a car for touring or track days (or both!). Whether you prefer mid-engined to front engined.


Of course, deciding how much money you have available may well be the biggest factor in choosing which car to build. If you are looking at a sector of the market which offers considerable choice, such as the Lotus Seven style cars, then setting a budget can be a helpful way of narrowing down your options. But working out how much a kit car will cost is notoriously difficult. Be rigorous in your costings and make sure that you include VAT where appropriate and that when comparing different cars, you are accurately comparing what’s included in each kit package. Don’t be surprised to find one company offering the springs and dampers in its suspension package, where another company keeps them separate. So make sure you compare like for like.

For more information on budgeting, see the Beginners’ Guide To Kit Car Building article on page 10.

Above: The clubs are a great place to get feedback from others with first hand experience of building the car you may be considering.

parked out in the club area. This is invaluable, since you can guarantee that the car in the hall will be to top specification and absolutely immaculate... those cars you find outside might more accurately reflect what you can achieve at home. Speak to the owners, because they’ll be delighted to tell you about their projects and highlight any issues they may have had with the kit or the manufacturer. The biggest kit car show in


It’s all very well looking at cars in this Guide, but you’ll really get a sense of what they’re like when you see them for real, and the best place to see lots of cars in one place is at a kit car show. Not only will the show allow you to see the manufacturer’s example, but you may well be able to look over privately assembled cars

Below: Visiting one of the larger shows should be an early priority.

the world happens to take place in the UK. The National Kit Car Motor Show takes place at Stoneleigh in Warwickshire on the first Bank Holiday in May. See www.nationalkitcar for more information.


If you are beginning to whittle down your choice, then joining the relevant owners’ club can prove invaluable. There may be a free online forum you can join and, once again, owners are rightly enthusiastic about their cars and happy to give opinions. There may even be someone local to you with the model of car you are interested in, and who is more than happy to show it to you.


When things start getting serious, then you need to go and see where the car is built, meet the team behind it, and at least go out in the demo car. But what can you learn from one of these visits? Buying a kit car is not like buying a production car, where after you’ve done the deal the salesman is onto the next customer. When you buy a kit car you’ll be developing a relationship with the



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Above: We’d recommend buying a complete donor car and stripping it yourself. CKC project car builder Ash Gardiner sold many parts from this Mazda MX-5 which helped to cover the cost of the initial purchase.

Above: It’s perfectly possible to build a fantastic kit car in a single garage, but it certainly helps to have power and light. Space can be tight though!

manufacturer as you phone for advice, pick up additional parts and generally look for support during the build. So it’s very important that you feel confident with the people you’ll be dealing with. Don’t be surprised if the factory is smaller than you expect and doesn’t have a showroom... few kit car companies do! But we would expect the place to be busy, with chassis and bodies being prepared for customer collection and a general sense that the company is actively doing business. If everything is covered in dust and there’s no-

one else around, it may be time to look elsewhere. Very few companies will allow you to drive the demonstrator. That may seem harsh, but enough companies have had demonstrators written-off by over-enthusiastic potential customers, for most companies not to offer such an option. But do sit in the driving seat and make sure you can get comfortable. If you can’t get comfortable, ask why not and see what can be done to improve it. And if you go out as a passenger, see what you think of the ride, the way the car handles and whether it’s

something you can imagine driving and owning yourself.


You’ve taken the plunge and placed an order. Now’s the time to get your working area sorted. See the Beginners’ Guide To Kit Car Building article on page 10 for much more information on making your work space kit car friendly.


Depending on the car you build, you may or may not need to buy yourself a donor car, but the chances are you may need to buy at least some second-hand parts.

Below: A factory visit before placing an order is vital. It’s an opportunity to meet the people you will be dealing with once the build commences, as well as seeing how busy the factory is.

While local breakers might be perfect, the internet has made this a particularly simple exercise, either via auction sites such as eBay or simply searching nationally for breakers. But what about a donor car? Some manufacturers (and some breakers) can offer donor packages, where all the parts are already pre-stripped from the donor, but we’d rather buy the donor and strip it ourselves. This way you see how everything comes apart, which can make life easier when it comes to reassembly on your kit car. It also allows you to keep other small items that might not be included in the pre-stripped packages. And finally it allows you to potentially sell other parts of the donor car that you don’t need. Should you buy a write-off or an MoT’d runner? Whenever possible, we’d try to buy a running car with an MoT. In this way you can drive it and assess what mechanical parts need attention before you put them on the kit car.


When your build is drawing to a close you’ll need to begin the process that allows you to legally drive your car on the road. The sections on IVA and registration elsewhere in this Guide will tell you about this in more detail, but if you’ve built a bodykit onto something like an MR2 then you simply need to get the



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Above: Unless you are building a panel kit where the base vehicle’s main structure remains unmodified, most kit cars will have to undergo an IVA test.

registration details changed to accurately reflect the new identity. Most kit cars, where you create a car on a new chassis and suspension package, will need to go through Individual Vehicle Approval. Most importantly, your kit manufacturer should be able to guide you through this process and, vitally, supply a kit that meets the requirements of the regulations.

CAN’T BUILD, WON’T BUILD Does it need to be the end of your kit car ambitions if you eventually decide that you really don’t want to build a car from scratch? Of course not. Two obvious options are apparent. Firstly, you can commission the kit car manufacturer (or one of a number of dedicated kit build

Above: If you don’t fancy doing the spannerwork yourself, companies such as Arden Automotive will assemble your car for you.

companies) to assemble a car for you. Simply specify your car, pay your money and await collection day. Secondly, you can consider buying a kit car someone else has built and driven. The market for pre-owned kit cars is a highly active one, so this is a great way of dipping your toes into the kit car scene, finding out if you enjoy the experience and, potentially, building your own car a few years down the road.

and leave those that don’t. You’ll typically find two different types of club to consider – the marque specific national club that links owners of the same car, and a local kit car club for people in the area to meet up with their cars, do local runs and have a good chinwag at a local hostelry. Both types of club are well worth considering, both for help and advice when you need it, but also just for the fun. Because of most kit cars’ sporting ability, there are loads of different ways to exploit your car’s ability, beyond an early morning road blast. At its most simple, you can book yourself on a track day. This is a great way to see just what your car can do, in the comparatively safe confines of a race circuit or airfield. And if you want to take your driving to a more competitive


When we talk about kit cars, it’s easy to concentrate on the build and simply view the ownership experience as one where you just drive the finished car. But there’s more to it than that. From a social perspective, kit cars can open up a whole new scene, and you can cherry pick the aspects that appeal

Below: Track days are a great way to see what your car can do once you’ve built it.



level, then there are endless ways of using a kit car in competition. Hillclimbs, sprints, autotesting, trials and circuit racing (in a large number of different championships) all await you. Owning a kit car is about so much more than just driving a quick car. It’s a unique opportunity to be involved in the creation of your very own car, deciding virtually every aspect of its dynamic ability and overall look. It’s a great way to open up a whole new social arena in your local area and, if the mood takes you, you can take that competitive streak and see what you’re really capable of in a race environment. No other form of motoring can offer all these opportunities rolled into one... except for a kit car. The UK Kit Car Guide could be the start of a fantastic new hobby. CKC

Below: There are lots of different competitive events that your car may be eligible for.


We can manufacture bespoke rotors, discs and bells and also available are bespoke logos on the calipers. Phone for details. We also stock EBC,Ferodo & Mintex pads, master cylinders & accessories, hand brake cables, braided hose & accessories and brake fluid.




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Beginner’s Guide To...

KIT CAR BUILDING So you think you might like to build a kit car? Over the next few pages we look at what you need in terms of a building space, tools and being realistic about your own ability and budget.


efore you’ve bought a single spanner, before you’ve even thought about which kit you might like to assemble, you need to consider the building in which you intend to build it.


There are those who have successfully assembled a kit car on the drive outside their house, with no weather protection whatsoever... but we wouldn’t recommend it! Complete Kit Car magazine’s project car builder, Ashley Gardiner, began his Haynes Roadster build in his garden, before quickly realising that some form of weather protection was needed. He then built an impromptu lean-to on the side of his house, where he successfully welded the chassis together and would have completed the car, had he not then moved house to a place with a wooden framed garage... luxury. If you don’t have access to your own garage then it’s always possible to rent one, but

kit projects can often take longer than you think, and the cost may be prohibitive. Expect to pay around £30 to £50 per month for a lock-up garage. What’s more, you’re most likely to come across an en bloc garage, which in itself isn’t ideal... While it may offer you a dry location in which to assemble your car, it will usually come with several distinct disadvantages. Most importantly, it’s unlikely to have power, which means no easy access to light or electric sockets from which to run items like a power drill. You can overcome this by running a small generator to power a light source, and use battery powered tools, but it’s far from ideal. Other disadvantages shouldn’t be ignored either. Lock-ups can often come with serious security issues. Will you leave your tools there, and what about all the kit components when they are still in boxes and easily portable? While a lock-up may be only a short walk from your house if

Above: A basic home garage, with access to the home and power and light is a great starting point.

it comes with the property, if you are renting a garage then it may mean a drive every time you want to pop round and do some work on the car. You’ll have to be extremely organised and dedicated to maintain progress in this scenario. Finally, lock-ups are rarely inviting places in which to spent hours tinkering with a car. If you’ve no other option, then it can be done, but... Our recommendation has to be a garage at home (either

Below: Building in an enbloc garage is not ideal, as they usualy lack any power and security can be an issue (above).

Below: This wooden garage has plenty of width for tools and a workbench down one side.


brick or wood built). If it’s attached to the house, even better and if you don’t have to go outside to access it, but have a door from inside the house, then that’s ideal. Basically, the


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easier it is to pop into the garage, the more likely you are to take advantage of any spare moments you may have.


With care and a bit of planning, it’s perfectly possible to assemble most kit cars in a typical single garage. However, it is worth checking the dimensions of the style of kit you are thinking of building, and then perhaps marking out its footprint on the floor of your garage with some masking tape. With the bodywork removed, most chassis (even when rolling on wheels) are much easier to get around, taking up less room in a confined space. One way of maximising a small space is to delay delivery of the bodywork until you are ready to fit it. Many kits can be built up to a rolling chassis before the panels need trial fitting, and storing panels (which in itself needs to be done carefully) can take up a lot of space. Other ways of maximising space may be to mount your trestles on sturdy dolly wheels, so that you can push the chassis against one wall when working

on the opposite side. You can also get dolly wheel trolleys (also known as wheel skates) which lift the wheels off the garage floor and allow you to do the same with a partial or fully built car. As well as being able to get around your car, you’ll also need space for some form of workbench, and also storage. The latter can often be done with shelving units which keep the floor space clear, and it is

Above: A single garage attached to the home is a great place to build a car. Below: While space is OK for a small kit car, it might not be ideal for a bigger project.

Useful Contacts Setting Up The Workplace also possible to have a folddown work surface, that you only erect when needed. That said, a permanent sturdy work surface that will support potentially heavy components

Big Dug. W: Garage Pride. W: RaceDeck Flooring (Maverick Auto Components). W: Rapid Racking. W: Screwfix. W:

Below: If only! Not many of us will have this sort of luxury.


and which is available at all times has to be ideal. This should be possible within a typical single garage. As an example, CKC’s editor, Ian Stent, has a garage at home

Below: A double width garage has to be perfect. If it has an inspection pit as well... even better!


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WHERE, WHAT, HOW MUCH Painting – Painting the walls white will not only make the place look nicer, but it will also make it much lighter, and that’s a benefit you shouldn’t underestimate. Painting block work is a pain, because it soaks up masses of paint, and it’s fiddly getting into all the nooks and crannies of the blocks. Brickwork is a doddle by comparison. A few coats of a cheap and cheerful matt white will work wonders.

replica in here, so if you are considering a larger kit car, then there’s no question that a double garage (double width being better than double length) is the kit builder’s dream.

Above: You can make a basic garage so much more welcoming and practical by painting the walls and floor. Adam Reeves built this superb Westfield V8 here.


which is pretty compact, measuring just 8ft 6in by 16ft 6in. A typical Lotus Seven style kit car fits nicely, although it can still be cramped to get access to all sides. But there is room


If no-one has ever developed your garage beyond its original assembly, then the chances are the unpainted walls will be made of either block work or bricks, the floor will be bare concrete, there may be one pendant or strip light and perhaps a single plug electric socket. This is a great start, but there are things you can do to make your build experience a whole lot easier.

for a full width work surface at one end, with old kitchen units below and mounted on the wall above. Clearly, it would be far more challenging to park a Cobra

The floor – Painting the floor isn’t essential, but it’s a really good thing to do if you can. Why? Because untreated concrete constantly creates dust when you walk over it or move a car around. But painting the floor needs to be done carefully. First, repair any damage in the concrete. It may even be worth applying a self-levelling screed before you go any further. You’ll then need to stabilise the concrete surface with a light wash of diluted PVA or one of the more dedicated products from a builders’ merchant. Finally, you can then paint it with a proper floor paint, that won’t peel off the first time you scuff it. You’ll find there are a variety of different colours to choose from (grey and tile red being the most obvious). By removing the dust you’ll keep your clothes cleaner, it will make wiping up spills easier and also make it easier to spot dropped nuts and bolts etc. If nothing else, it looks dead cool when your completed car is Continued on page 14

Below left: Stripping a donor car takes up a lot of space! Below: When the kit arrives, things can get very tight! It may be worth delaying delivery of the bodywork to free up space.





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Aspire to one of these...

See our website for our past build projects. We provide a planned pricing structure from the outset and monthly updates on your vehicle’s progress, complete with images.

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Above: James Griffin built this lovely Westfield in his single garage.

parked up after a great summer’s day drive! Another increasingly affordable alternative is to cover the floor in garage floor tiles. These usually come in the form of hard plastic tiles which clip together to cover the whole garage. You may need to be careful when using a jack or axle stands that you don’t damage the tiles, but this is an increasingly popular option. Lighting – Going hand in hand with painting the walls, is getting the lighting right. We’d recommend strip lights to give you as much light as possible. If you simply replace the centrally mounted pendant light, then you’ll find shadows falling down each side of the chassis, just where you want the light. So fit several strip lights, either across the garage, or running lengthways along the garage and located perhaps half a meter from the side walls. Always fit strip light covers – garage ceilings can often be

Above: Mike Dobkin built his highly modified Aeon GT3 in this small garage.

try to be realistic about what you’ll be able to put up with.

lower than in the house, and it’s easy to catch an exposed strip light bulb when moving bulky items around the garage.


Building your first kit car can be a daunting task, but you can make the task much easier by having the right tools. So what tools are essential for the average (if such a thing exists!) kit car project, and which are luxuries you might want to add later? Here are some essentials...

Power – You can never have too many electrical sockets! As with the lighting, there are obvious safety issues here, so if you are in any doubt, get in a professional to do both your lighting and power at the same time. Neither will be a long job, so the cost should be reasonable. Sockets positioned over the workbench should be at least six inches above the surface to avoid them getting bashed by items you may be working on. In addition, it’s well well worth having more sockets located along the walls, towards the other end of the garage, to avoid constantly trailing extension leads all over the place. Where you build your kit car can make a huge difference to the enjoyment you take from the assembly process. You’ll be spending lots of time here, so

Workbench – You might think you can get away without a work surface, especially if space is tight, but we’d certainly recommend you have one (see Vice entry below). If space is at a premium, then you can get

Continued on page 16

Below: You always need lots of storage. Note the location of double sockets along the wall.


fold down work surfaces, but they need to be sturdy and capable of supporting heavy donor components. You might also consider a portable workbench. A workbench can be cheap to buy or, of course, you can make your own. CKC’s editor managed to move some unwanted kitchen units into the garage and, with a new

Below: CKC’s editor used old kitchen units with a new worktop across the end of his garage.





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Above: This trolley is designed for low slung cars. Rubber pad also protects the chassis.

Above: James Griffin used steel trestles to raise the working height during his build.

comes a close second. It’s very likely that by the end of the build you’ll have both! Why mention a centre punch here? Because this really helps maintain positional accuracy when drilling holes in metal and stops the drill bit skating off position.

then be able to use it on your daily driver, as well as the kit car). A conventional production car scissor-style jack is not really suitable and bottle jacks are usually too tall to fit under the chassis of a low kit car. laminate work surface from Wickes for £20, now has a work surface stretching the width of the garage. Vice – Another reason to have a permanent work surface, is to have somewhere to sturdily locate a decent size vice. A vice is utterly invaluable, but it’s only any good if securely located. You’ll use it to hold donor components when cleaning them with a wire brush, and a million other seemingly insignificant jobs. A vice can be relatively expensive to purchase, but is just the sort of thing you might pick up at a car boot sale. Jack – A trolley jack is what you are after, with a lifting capacity of at least two tonnes (so you’ll

Axle stands/Trestles – When the kit chassis arrives, it obviously isn’t on wheels, and you’ll need to get if off the floor to complete certain jobs. Four sturdy axle stands will do this job perfectly and will always prove invaluable for later servicing when the car is being used. Taller trestles, which lift the chassis higher off the ground, are another option. This means you are not constantly bending over the chassis while working on it. Ideally made of metal, it is also possible to make them in wood, but safety is paramount here. They’re not always easy to find through conventional retailers, but your kit manufacturer may be able to make you some.

Electric drill (plus centre punch) – There are lots of great cordless drills around these days, and they are brilliant to use because they are often light and the body of the drill itself is small, making it easy to reach awkward places. But there are also times when the power of a mains operated drill takes some beating. We’d consider the latter an essential kit builder’s tool, where a cordless drill

comes when aluminium panelling the prepared chassis. Having drilled all the holes with your mains powered drill, you then need to rivet on the Continued on page 18

Below: A powerful corded drill is very useful, although cordless ones are increasingly powerful.


Rivet gun – There cannot be many kit builds that have been completed without the use of rivets. The most obvious use

Below: You’ll need a set of different profile files.


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010-021 Beginners Guide:Technical 2pp



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SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS There are several items of important safety kit that you must have to hand. These include eye protection, ear defenders (both essential when using a power tool such as a grinder), sturdy gloves (not too loose so as to catch in moving parts of a drill etc) and lightweight inspection gloves for removing and servicing grubby donor parts. None of these should cost more than a few pounds. You should get a basic safety kit with plasters etc, and supplement this with an eye wash (which is rarely included in the basic kits). Finally we’d recommend you get a sensible size fire extinguisher (filled with powder) to have permanently in the garage.

Above: A socket set needn’t be expensive, but always buy the best you can afford.

panels, and that will mean hundreds and hundreds of rivets. Rivet guns come in various shapes and sizes and require varying amounts of physical effort to operate. A basic rivet gun is essential and will get into more confined areas later in the build. If you can borrow something more substantial for the panelling part of the build, that would be perfect.

Useful Contacts Garage Tools

Files – You’ll typically find you can buy individual hand files or a set of four or five together. All will prove useful, so go for the set. Aluminium will clog up files quite quickly, while fibreglass will blunt them fast too. Don’t expect files to last forever.

from either aluminium or mild steel.

sockets you can buy on tool stands at shows may well get you by perfectly, but we’d recommend buying a dedicated socket set which comes with its own wrench and accessories. There are endless options and you don’t need to spend a fortune. Consider the case construction too – it’ll get bashed around and you want it portable – brittle plastics are not recommended.

Screwdrivers – You’re likely to have a few of these already. Both slot head and crosshead style screwdrivers are vital, in a good selection of sizes. Once again, there are some great sets available these days, and it’s always better to buy the best you can afford, since quality can vary enormously.

Chicago Brand. W: Clarke. W: Draper. W: Facom. W: Halfords. W: Kraftwerk. W: Laser. W: Machine Mart. W: MEMfast. W: Rally Design. W: Sealey. W: Toolbay. W:

Spanners – A standard set of open and closed end spanners in both metric and imperial will prove invaluable. As always, buy the best you can afford. Ratcheting spanners are also an increasingly popular option. Although more expensive, those that have tried them tend to stick with them.

Clamps – There are all sorts of clamps you can get these days, and they’ll prove invaluable when holding panels in place before permanent fixing. Hacksaw – You will use one for various jobs during the build, but typically for cutting brackets

None of the following tools are essential, but all will prove useful if you have them. They’re perhaps the extras you buy as the build progresses... Power tools – In addition to drills, the other power tools you should consider might include a grinder (used very seldom, although with a thin cutting disc can prove handy), a Dremel hobby drill and a jigsaw which I’ve rarely used in kit building (but there are now

Socket set – The sets of

Below: You may well already have a set of spanners. If not, you’ll need some


Wiring tools – You can get quite carried away in this sector of the build but it rather depends on what wiring loom you begin with. We’d suggest that you’ll probably need some form of crimping pliers and the relevant connectors. Try and avoid the pre-shrouded ones. Buy a ‘proper’ crimping tool and you won’t regret it.

Below: It’s likely you will do some wiring on your kit. A quality crimping tool is highly recommended.


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Above: Although not vital, tools like a grinder and jigsaw can prove useful.

Above: A Dremel (or equivelent) can be a handy addition to your tool collection.

quite good blades for cutting aluminium).

can it be done, and if so how? Alternatively, should you even worry about setting a budget at all? As you might expect, there’s certainly no definitive answer, and what works for one person, may not for another. Let’s deal with the basics first...

Hole cutting set – For use in a power drill, hole cutting sets make a great job of cutting tidy holes in fibreglass. You can also get some very neat hole cutters for aluminium. Micrometer – CKC’s own technical editor, John Dickens, did a feature on micrometers in 2010, and they’re more useful than you might at first think. They don’t need to be expensive, either. Aluminium cutting tools – Aluminium can be cut with a variety of tools which may include a hacksaw, tin snips, cutting blade on a grinder, jigsaw or manual or power ‘nibbler’. Each produce a slightly different finish and may or may not be suitable depending on how visible the finished cut will be. Rivnut tool – Rivnuts are like rivets, but have a thread running through the centre. It means


that when the Rivnut is fixed into a panel or chassis tube, you can attach items to it using the corresponding size bolt (M5, M6 etc). Rivnuts can prove invaluable when used correctly.

Budget, what budget? – Do you need to set a budget at all? That might sound like a daft question, because you’ve got to have some idea of how much a potential project is going to cost, don’t you? While we’ve no doubt that knowing approximately how much a car may cost to assemble will be useful, how accurate does it need to be... to the nearest few hundred pounds, the nearest £1000? How about the nearest £5000? Before you answer that, ask yourself a secondary question. How quickly do you want this car to be finished? If the answer is within, let’s say, two years,

There are hundreds of tools that could be considered useful in a typical kit car build and we can’t hope to cover them all here. Hopefully, we’ve highlighted the items that will genuinely make life easier when undertaking your first project.


Trying to budget for a kit car build is a notoriously tricky thing to get right and the reality is that we rarely come across any private builder who has built their car within the original budget they set themselves. But

then your budget needs to be reasonably accurate. But if the answer is ‘it’ll be finished when it’s finished’ and you’re not bothered when that might be, then the budget can be more flexible. Why? Because if you run out of cash and need to save up before buying a set of wheels, then the project deadline can just extend to accommodate the period while you are saving up. And it doesn’t matter whether you are building on a tight budget or one that ends up being substantial. we’ve met individuals that have successfully worked on this basis while building Locost kit cars for £1500 and top end Cobra replicas for £50,000. If you’re not bothered how long it will take, then the budget becomes potentially irrelevant. But extending a build over a very long period isn’t for everyone, and it can often be the way in which projects never get finished... momentum and

Below left: Budgeting for the donor car can be easy. Budgeting for the cost of refurbishing parts less so. Below: Some chassis may be supplied powdercoated, some may not. Always check.


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WHERE, WHAT, HOW MUCH enthusiasm gradually fade away. So for most of us who would like to build a car within a relatively short timeframe (sub two years) it can be more important to realistically budget for a build. Perhaps we should first make it clear what we mean by budgeting. What we’re talking about is working out how much a kit car will cost to complete, by looking at all the various components required to assemble it. Most of us have some idea of the amount of money we can allocate to a project, so it’s important to know that the car you’d like to build can be achieved within that figure. When CKC Project Car Builder, Ashley Gardiner worked out a budget for his Haynes Roadster project, he started with his maximum possible spend and then took away from this pot of money all the items he needed to buy. Once he felt sure he could build a car he would enjoy for the funds he had available, he began the project... and came in £920 under his maximum spend of £4000, at just £3080 (excluding IVA). Impressive. If you know exactly what your limit is, then this is certainly one way of viewing the budgeting process. More usual is the cumulative

route, whereby you start with nothing and then add up the cost of all the various items you’ll need to complete a car. An Excel spreadsheet is absolutely the way to go about this, being easy to adjust, add in extra items or take away things to instantly reveal a final figure at the bottom. Vitally, it’s also the easiest way to compare seemingly similar products from different manufacturers. We’ve created an Excel template which you can download from the CKC website and use for this purpose when comparing different kit car costs. You’ll find it in the lefthand menu on the homepage...

Above: There are a lot of parts in a complete kit.

Kit components – This is where you need to be on your game. There is no set criteria by which a kit package is supplied, so a basic kit from one manufacturer may not include all the components included within another manufacturer’s basic kit package. For instance, a basic body/chassis kit from one may include the fabricated wishbones, while from another these might be included within a separate suspension pack (offered at additional cost). Similarly, one chassis might be supplied with a rust preventative coating (such as powdercoating), while another Above and below: Ashley Gardiner started with a maximum sum of money and then took away the cost of parts when he worked out his budget. He came in under budget at just £3080.


is supplied bare and requires subsequent treatment. As such, any comparative Excel spreadsheet should, as far as possible, list separately every last item needed in the assembly process. In this way you can clearly identify what’s included and what’s extra, and adjust the figures accordingly. Like For Like – It’s also important to compare like with like, so it wouldn’t be fair to compare the stainless steel exhaust system from one manufacturer, with the mild steel option from another. Even identifying these discrepancies can be helpful, because it then

Below: These two Dax Rush cars may be identical, but not all sevenesque kits are the same!


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Above: It’s often the cost of smaller items that mounts up significantly during a build.

makes you decide which you’d like. If only a stainless exhaust is good enough, then you need to adjust the costings accordingly. Look after the pennies – Don’t forget the smaller items. As we’ve already suggested, most of the people we meet overspend on the budget they originally had in mind, but ask them where the extra cash has gone and it’s never on one big component, but rather hundreds of smaller items that cost under £100 each. Brake lines, clips, hoses, nuts and bolts... all can have a significant effect on the budget. Donor costs – Very few manufacturers supply every last nut and bolt needed to build a car and that will typically mean dealing with aftermarket suppliers and second-hand donor components. It may be that you’ll buy a complete donor car, as we did with the Mazda MX-5 for our MEV Exocet, or you might be buying

Above: An interior like this does not come cheap. Be realistic about what you can do yourself.

with other kit cars are done on a like for like basis. A kit car that initially appears more expensive, may end up cheaper by the time you add in the relevant components to make the cheaper product accurately compare. Just the process of doing a budget will help you narrow down what you can do without in a build, and what you consider vital. It should also make you question exactly what you can achieve at home and which areas you may need to call in expert assistance. Not convinced you can do a decent trim job of the interior? Then make sure you budget for the manufacturer’s trim kit or employing a local trimmer to make something from scratch.

individual donor components from a breakers. Either way, not all of it will be serviceable and much of it may need rebuilding or repainting. Although very difficult to cost within a budget, make sure you leave a reasonable allowance for this process. When you finally place your order and start the build, it’s easy to get carried away and swap the reconditioned items you budgeted for in favour of expensive upgrades. At this early stage in the process, the bank balance can look temptingly flush. It’s very easy to overspend at the rolling chassis stage, only to find you’ve run out of cash when it comes to the important finishing touches, such as interior trim and paint etc.

Be realistic – Throughout the whole budgeting exercise you should be realistic about what you want, and what you are prepared to forego in order to achieve your dream build. If you know that your standards are

Aftermarket suppliers – When it comes to aftermarket suppliers of new components, you once again need to be as comprehensive as possible and make sure any comparisons

Below: If your car needs painting, make sure you get some quotes. It can be expensive.



high, but in order to build your dream car you’ll have to make compromises that mean the end result may be a disappointment, then you will be better off building something you can more easily afford, yet which you can build to a standard you can be proud of. If that means the Cobra replica you’ve always wanted will have to wait, so be it. Paperwork – And last but by no means least, don’t forget the paperwork cost of completing a kit car. The chances are that your kit will need an IVA test (possibly a retest), first registration fee and you’ll need to insure it. All of which can add up. Budgeting for a kit car build needn’t be complete pot luck if you are realistic about your ability and expectations, and you are meticulous in making sure that any comparisons you make between different manufacturers are on a like for like basis. CKC

Below: Don’t forget the paperwork costs, such as IVA, first registration and insurance.





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024-031 Fibreglass Basics:Technical 2pp



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Beginner’s Guide To...

FIBREGLASS It’s the kit car manufacturer’s material of choice, but how easy is it to make panels and use them on your own kit car? CKC Technical Editor, John Dickens, explains the basics when it comes to fibreglass.


he vast majority of current kit cars have bodywork made wholly or partly from GRP (Glass Reinforced Plastic). This material, commonly called fibreglass, allows small volume manufacturers to produce complex shapes and panels without the need to invest in hugely expensive metal pressing machinery. The widespread use of this material means that if you own and drive a kit car for any period of time you will probably find yourself, just as I did, needing to work with fibreglass in some capacity. It may be just repairing scratches or cracks in the outer finish or repairing minor body damage with one of the kits available from a motor factors, but in reality GRP is a much more versatile material

than this, as I slowly discovered. My earliest experiences of GRP work were simple repairs on my Bond Bug (Fig 1) but over the years my projects became more ambitious, culminating in new body panels for my Mini Marcos racer, now sold as the MkVI GT by Marcos Heritage (Fig 2), a complete GRP replacement chassis for my GTM Coupe (Fig 3), all new body panels for my Moto Guzzi California (Fig 4/5) and, most recently, a complete set of bodywork for my UVA Fugitive (Fig 6/7). All of these projects have been completed in my own single car garage with very few specialist tools.

composite material consisting of thin fibres of pure glass bonded together in a solid resin. Combining these two materials produces a substance which is much more rigid than the glass fibres alone and far stronger than the unreinforced resin. The beauty of GRP is that the resin is applied to the glass fibres in liquid form allowing the materials to be formed into the required shapes, then the resin solidifies through a chemical reaction, leaving the material rigid and permanently shaped. In addition, for simple projects at least, very few special tools are needed, along with only a few starting materials...


Polyester Lay-Up Resin (Fig 8) – This is the resin most commonly used for laminating layers of glass fibre matting or

As it’s name suggests, GRP is a

Above: John Dickens is technical editor for Complete Kit Car magazine

cloth. It is a sticky amber coloured liquid with the consistency of 10w-40 motor oil. The resin will remain in liquid form until the catalyst is added. Catalyst (Fig 9) – The catalyst used for polyester resins is Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide

Below (1): The Bond Bug provided John’s earliest experiences of working with GRP.

Below (2): John’s reworked panels ended up being used on the Marcos Mk VI GT.

Below (3): John’s GTM Coupe with a full GRP chassis.

Below (4): One of the complex mouldings needed for John’s Moto Guzzi

Below (5): The finished bike with brand new panels and mudguards.

Below (6): These panels were made from moulds taken from old originals.



024-031 Fibreglass Basics:Technical 2pp



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Above (7): The complete car has unique bodywork around the engine and the roof.

(MEKP). It is normally added at the rate of 2 per cent by weight or volume (2ml in 100g of resin). This can be reduced to a minimum of 1 per cent if the resin is setting too quickly or increased to a maximum of 4 per cent if the resin is setting too slowly at lower temperatures, but these limits must not be exceeded. Chopped Strand Mat (CSM) (Fig 10) – This is the most common reinforcing material used with polyester resin for hand lay-up. It consists of 4 to 5cm long strands of glass fibre held together in a random arrangement by an emulsion or powder binder, to form a thin mat. It is usually supplied on a roll 95cm wide and is sold by length, weight or area. The thickness of the matting is

Above (8): Polyester lay-up resin is one of the basic materials used in laminating.

Above (9): MEKP catalyst is added to the resin to make it set.

the hard glossy outer surface of the item. It is water resistant and stable to UV light.

quoted as its weight per square metre and the commonly available thicknesses are 300g, 450g, 600g and 900g per m².

Surface Tissue (Fig 12) – This is a fine glass fibre mat very similar to tissue paper. It is supplied on a roll 1m wide and weighs only 25 to 30g per m². It adds no strength to the laminate but is used as a surfacing layer. During lamination it can be used to back up the gelcoat to avoid air bubbles and voids, or to prevent the coarse pattern produced by CSM showing through the gelcoat. It can also be applied after the final CSM layer to cover the rough glass strands and form a smooth surface.

Polyester Gelcoat Resin (Fig 11) – This is a thickened form of polyester resin. It is pale pink in colour and is thixotropic. It barely pours and will not run, even on vertical surfaces. It uses the same catalyst in the same proportions as the lay-up resin. It is brushed or sprayed into the mould first to form a layer about 0.5mm thick and then allowed to harden. It is ‘air inhibited’ and stays sticky on the exposed surface so that the following layers will bond better. Matting and lay-up resins are laminated onto the hardened gelcoat to form the load bearing structure. The gelcoat, which can be coloured, forms


Release agent (Fig 13/14) – If you do not want your GRP to stick to a mould or former, you

have to use a release agent. For amateur use the two most common release agents are PVA and wax. PVA is a solution of Poly Vinyl Acetate in alcohol. It is spread over the mould surface and dries to form a thin isolating layer. It can be obtained with a gloss, or more rarely a matt finish. Release wax is normally based on Carnuba or Beeswax. It is applied to the mould then polished off. Five or six layers of wax are needed on a new mould. Acetone/Thinners (Fig 15) – Uncured resin can be cleaned out of pots and brushes by dissolving it in acetone. Cellulose thinners can also be used. Acetone is more effective but cellulose thinners is generally easier to obtain locally. These solvents should be kept

Below (10): Chopped strand matting is the other basic material used in GRP lamination.

Below (11): Gelcoat resin forms the hard outer layer of a GRP component.

Below (12): This fine weave surface tissue can be used in a number of ways.

Below (13): PVA release agent forms a thin film over a mould preventing sticking.

Below (14): An alternative release agent is wax. This can also produce a shiny finish.

Below (15): Acetone is a good solvent for cleaning out brushes, rollers and pots.



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Above (16): Even cured resin can be cleaned off skin using a suitable product.

in closed containers as they evaporate quickly and they are both highly flammable. Hand Cleaner (Fig 16) – There are specialist hand cleaners available from GRP suppliers. They will even clean set resin from skin and are water washable. Kleenall is one example but there are others. They are also very effective on oil or grease so they an be used instead of Swarfega or similar. Brushes (Fig 17) – For hand layup the normal method of applying the resin is by brush. The brushes used do not need to be expensive or high quality but they must not lose bristles in use and they must not dissolve in the acetone cleaning solvent. Rollers (Fig 18) – Rollers squeeze the resin through the

Above (17): Cheap brushes are fine providing the bristles are secure.

Above (18): There are various types of rollers. These are 'split washer' rollers.


matting more effectively than brushes alone and greatly reduce the amount of resin needed.

The best way to learn how to use these materials is by trying them out in simple projects. A good staring point is to laminate a flat sheet of GRP. Whilst this may seem a little pointless at first, I can assure you that flat GRP sheet can be very useful in kit car building. My GTM Coupe chassis was built almost entirely from flat sheet cut and bonded together (Fig 19) and the interior panels for my UVA were constructed in exactly the same way (Fig 20/21). Small brackets can be fabricated from flat sheet too as an alternative to bending, joining and painting steel or aluminium (Fig 22/23). The best material to use as a former for flat GRP sheet is 15mm thick melamine faced board, often sold as


These materials, as with many automotive chemicals, are perfectly safe to use if handled correctly and with the appropriate precautions. The polyester resins, the alcohol based PVA and especially the acetone are flammable substances. They should be handled with the same care that you would use with, for example, petrol and should a fire occur it should be extinguished in the same way. The MEKP catalyst is corrosive so it should be kept away from the eyes and mouth. When using the resins the workplace should be well ventilated as the fumes can build up and cause drowsiness.

Conitboard. The surface may have a slight ripple which will be reproduced on your sheet but it has the advantage that the GRP will not stick to the melamine surface even if you are less than thorough with your release agent. If you are laminating a very large sheet such as a complete floorpan, 19mm thick board may be a better choice (Fig 24). • Start by cleaning the surface of the board thoroughly with water and a little washing up liquid (Fig 25) then dry the surface thoroughly. Using a small piece of sponge, wipe a thin even film of PVA release agent over the whole surface and the edges of the board (Fig 26). The liquid is tinted blue so that you can see if the film is even. Allow the PVA to dry fully

Below (19): The GTM chassis was made almost entirely from flat GRP sheets.

Below (20): The UVA floor, bulkhead and footwell cover are made from sheet GRP.

Below (21): The centre tunnel and rear bulkhead are also flat GRP sheets.

Below (22): These number plate brackets are small pieces of sheet bonded together.

Below (23): John made some 6mm thick sheet GRP for these bonnet hinge plates.

Below (25): John used kitchen stools to support this large sheet of 19mm Contiboard.



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Above (25): Degrease the surface of the board with water and washing up liquid.

Above (26): John finds a sponge is best for spreading the PVA release agent.

Above (27): You are aiming for a thin even coat of PVA over the whole surface.

Above (28): Weigh out the required amount of the thick gelcoat resin.

Above (29): If you want to colour the gelcoat, weigh out the pigment too.

Above (30): Stir in the pigment slowly but thoroughly. Avoid creating bubbles.

(Fig 27). A hair dryer can be used to speed up the process but try not to blow dust onto the wet PVA as it will show up in your GRP sheet. • Weigh or measure out your gelcoat resin (Fig 28). The coverage of the resin is 600g/m² so you need to know the rough area of the sheet you are making. The density of the resin is near enough to 1g/ml so

• Measure out the catalyst (Fig 31). For smaller amounts (up to 500g) of gelcoat resin I use 3 per cent catalyst at normal room temperatures. Use less catalyst for larger volumes as heat build up can cause it to set too quickly. Stir the catalyst in thoroughly but slowly as before.

it doesn’t really matter whether you use weight or volume. • If you want to colour the gelcoat, mix in the pigment at this stage (Fig 29). Light colours need around 10 per cent of pigment but darker colours can get away with less if you wish. Stir the pigment in thoroughly but slowly so you don’t create bubbles (Fig 30). These will show up in the outer surface.

• Paint the gelcoat resin onto the surface of the board using the brush as a spreader rather

than a conventional paint brush (Fig 32). Do not try to spread the resin too far. It can tear the PVA film. As soon as the brush begins to drag on the surface apply more resin. Ideally you should end up with an even coating 0.5mm thick if you apply the correct amount of resin in an even film (Fig 33). • Clean the brush and mixing pot in acetone. Three rinses should

Below (31): The catalyst is easier to measure by volume rather than weight.

Below (32): Spread the catalysed resin in an even layer over the whole of the sheet.

Below (33): If you weighed it correctly and spread it evenly it should be 0.5mm thick.

Below (34): When the gelcoat is still tacky, lay on the surface tissue.

Below (35): Weigh or measure out the thinner lay-up resin. You can colour it too.

Below (36): Using a stippling action wet out the tissue. Don't leave pools on the surface.



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Above (37): While the tissue layer is set but tacky, add the first sheet of CSM.

be sufficient to remove the resin. Save the waste acetone in a container for safe disposal at your local recycling centre. • Allow the gelcoat resin to set until the surface still feels tacky to the touch but no resin comes off on your finger. At this stage it is ready for the next layer. • If you wish you can go ahead and laminate the chopped strand matting directly onto the gelcoat at this stage, but I prefer to add a layer of surface tissue coloured to match the gelcoat. This extra layer achieves three things. It gives extra density to the colour and produces a more even pigmentation, it prevents the texture of the CSM showing through the gelcoat and it provides insurance against air

Above (38): Stipple the catalysed lay-up resin into the matting, leaving no dry patches.

Above (39): With all the CSM layers wetted out, use a roller to amalgamate the layers.

• Using a gentle stippling action, push the resin into the surface tissue (Fig 36) so that it is all wetted out but try to avoid pools of free resin on the surface of the tissue. These will set as shiny areas which will need rubbing down before the next layer can be added. When all the tissue is wetted out, clean your tools in acetone as before.

bubbles and dry patches in the CSM layer caused by poor laminating technique. This last flaw is less likely to occur on a flat sheet where lamination is easy, but can be a problem when laminating in tight corners or confined spaces. • Cut your tissue to size and place it carefully over the tacky gelcoat (Fig 34). You can use several smaller pieces if you wish. The surface tissue uses roughly the same weight of lay-up resin as the gelcoat layer (600g/m2 ) and needs the same amount of pigment to colour it and catalyst to set it, so weigh out your resin (Fig 35), mix in your pigment and then stir in the catalyst. You can stir as quickly as you like this time as this tissue layer will not be visible in the final lamination.

• While the tissue layer is curing, cut out the chopped strand matting for the final stage. If you need a consistent thickness on the final panel you will have to use complete sheets of matting for each layer, but if you don’t mind thicker and thinner sections then you can overlap smaller pieces to make up each layer. As a rough guide, a laminate made from one layer of gelcoat, one layer

of tissue and two layers of 600g/m² chopped strand matting will be around 2.5 to 3mm thick. • Try to laminate the CSM layer onto the tissue layer while it is still tacky. This will give a good bond between the two. Weigh or work out the total weight of the CSM you will be adding. If you are using a roller to wet out the matting, the ratio of laminating resin to matting is 2:1 by weight. If you are not using a roller, the ratio is 2.5:1 by weight as brushes are less efficient at forcing the laminating resin into the fibres. You can tint this resin too but it can make it difficult to see if the matting is fully wetted out, so don’t colour this resin layer until you’ve got a bit more experience.

Below (40): When the resin is fully cured, rough sand the sheet to remove loose strands.

Below (41): Start at one corner. The GRP sheet should lift off easily.

Below (42): The PVA film will peel off, but washing in water is far quicker.

Below (43): A hacksaw or cutting disc is used to trim the edges, but wear a mask.

Below (44): Finish the cut edges with 80 or 120 grit abrasive paper.

Below (45): The finished sheet has exactly the same texture as the original Contiboard.



024-031 Fibreglass Basics:Technical 2pp



Page 29


Above (46): Half round wooden dowel and polyurethane foam are being used here.

• Paint a thin coating of lay-up resin onto the surface, then put on your first layer of CSM (Fig 37). Quickly stipple more resin into the matting until there are no dry patches and the matting is starting to look translucent (Fig 38). Lay on the next layer of matting and repeat the stippling process. Work quickly at this stage as the resin sets quicker in the pot than it does on the laminate. Continue in this way until all the matting is wetted out then use your roller to squeeze the resin through the layers of matting and consolidate them into one big layer (Fig 39). The matting should have an even translucent appearance with no voids, bubbles or dry spots.


Above (47): Paper rope has a 'D' cross section and a wire stiffener to hold its shape.

• When the resin is fully cured, rub down the outer surface with coarse abrasive paper (Fig 40) to remove any loose strands of fibreglass which will stick in your skin like needles. Then carefully separate the GRP sheet from the Contiboard. It should lift off easily if the release agent was applied properly (Fig 41). The PVA film may stay on the melamine surface or it may stick to the GRP (Fig 42) but either way it washes off with warm soapy water, so it is not a problem.

• To prevent heat build up distorting your sheet I would suggest that you laminate no more than three or four layers of 600g/m² matting in one session. If a thicker laminate is needed, do it in two or more stages. • When you are happy with the lamination, clean your tools in acetone as before. • At 20 deg C the resin should set in 45 to 60 minutes, but it is not fully cured at this point and if you remove it from the mould at this ‘green’ stage it will distort as it cures. Leave it to cure in the mould overnight at room temperature, or even longer if the temperature is cooler.

• To trim the rough edges of the sheet use a hacksaw (Fig 43) or a cutting disc, then finish them off with 80 or 120 grit

abrasive paper (Fig 44). The dust you produce here is a mixture of polyester and powder glass, so make sure you wear a good quality dust mask at this stage. • Hopefully the resulting sheet should have a gelcoat finish which exactly mirrors the finish on the Contiboard former (Fig 45). GRP shrinks slightly as it sets and this can cause larger sheets to curve slightly, so it may be worth laminating stiffeners between the layers of CSM. These can be made from half round wooden dowel (Fig 46), paper rope (Fig 47), or polyurethane foam strips (Fig

Below (48): Blocks of polyurethane foam can be cut into thin strips to form stiffeners.

Below (49): The foam strips form stiff GRP box sections in the laminate.

Below (50): 1in thick foam sheet can be easily cut and shaped.

Below (51): It can be sanded to shape using 120 grit abrasive paper.

Below (52): The foam shape is then covered with a couple of layers of resin and CSM.

Below (53): The cured matting shape is filled and sanded until smooth.



024-031 Fibreglass Basics:Technical 2pp



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Above (54): When primed and sprayed the components are ready for use.

Above (55): The original item needed reshaping and smoothing before use.

Above (56): The high gloss paint finish will be reproduced on the mould surface.

Above (57): The finished mould needs to be rigid enough to keep it's shape.

Above (68): The finish can be polished using T Cut or similar to a smooth high gloss.

Above (59): The finished component has exactly the same finish and shape as the plug.

48/49). Don’t use wood anywhere where it may get wet, as it will swell and split the laminate. The same laminating technique, described above, is used for all GRP work, no matter how simple or complex the job may be. One off components can be made by skinning shaped

is basically a negative or female version of the component you want to produce. A mould needs to be made from an initial positive or male version normally known as a plug. This plug may be an original component that you wish to copy. I made a rear hugger for my BMW motorcycle using these steps. The original

polyurethane foam (Fig 50/51) with resin and matting (Fig 52) then filling and sanding the surface (Fig 53) until it can be primed or painted (Fig 54). If you want to make a number of identical components or to produce a smooth shiny gelcoat finish with no polishing required, then you need to make a mould. A mould

component was a poor moulding and needed modifying, so I reshaped it to form the plug using sheet and filler (Fig 55) then primed and painted it to obtain a gloss finish (Fig 56). I made the mould by covering the plug with PVA, gelcoat, tissue and CSM as described earlier (Fig 57/58) To produce the final panel I

Below (60): Used components had to be repaired to use as plugs for John’s UVA.

Below (61): This is the two piece mould produced from the mudguard plug.

Below (62): The new mudguard needs to be trimmed after removal from the mould.

Below (63): Right to left... is the original panel, the mould and the completed new panel.

Below (64): The initial stages of the rear bodywork plug in sheet GRP.

Below (65): Polyurethane foam was used to form the curves in the corners.



024-031 Fibreglass Basics:Technical 2pp



Page 31


Above (66): The three mould sections were laminated with the plug on the car.

used release wax on the mould then repeated the laminating process to produce a high gloss finish on the final component (Fig 59). Exactly the same technique was used for all the body panels on my UVA Fugitive II. I had to repair used and damaged original panels (Fig 60) to use as plugs then take moulds from each one (Fig 61) to mould the new panels (Fig 62). Figure 63 shows all three stages in manufacturing a UVA side panel. If you are making a unique object then you have to make your own plug. This plug can be made from any material as long as it has the correct shape and the best possible surface finish, as this finish will be reproduced in the mould and again on the

Above (67): The three sections were removed, trimmed and assembled for storage.

Above (68): In use, the assembled mould needs to be braced to keep it in shape.

are unobtainable by any other means. Over the years I have had to produce, among many other things, my own washer bottle (Fig 70), various scoops and bulges (Fig 71) and, for my latest car, a pair of seats (Fig 72), a deflector screen (Fig 73) and a set of wheel centre caps (Fig 74). As can be seen from Figures 71 and 73 it is also

final component. For the rear bodywork on my UVA I made the plug from sheet GRP, polyurethane foam and filler (Fig 64/65). The overall shape meant that in order to remove the mould it had to be made in three sections (Fig 66/67). The sections had to be bolted together for use (Fig 68) and dismantled again to remove the finished panels (Fig 69). I am aware that very few kit car owners will be attempting anything as ambitious as a full set of body panels, but I include them here to show what can be achieved by an amateur builder using basic GRP materials and techniques. A more likely scenario for most owners is the need to produce smaller items which


possible to incorporate more exotic materials such as carbon fibre and Kevlar into a polyester resin lamination for cosmetic effect too. I hope that this article has gone some way to illustrating the versatility and ease of use of GRP, and to open up some of its possibilities to the kit car owner or builder. CKC

Useful Contacts AT Fibreglass Specialists T: 01484 402010. W: CFS T: 01209 821028 W: Composites4u T: 01282 770666. W: Cristex T: 01282 770666. W: Dynamic Mouldings T: 01454 222 899. W: East Coast Fibreglass T: 0191 497 5134. W: GW-GRP Designs T: 01507 524426. W: Westgate Composites T: 07733 282947. W:

Below (69): The finished panels trimmed and fitted to the car.

Below (70): John made this washer bottle as nothing else fitted into the GTM CoupĂŠ.

Below (71): This is one of many bulges John made for various fitments.

Below (72): New UVA seats are unobtainable so John borrowed an original and made his own.

Below (73): He made this small deflector screen from some scrap carbon fibre and GRP.

Below (74): He had to make his own wheel centre caps as new ones are not available.






Page 10

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033-034 Index 2015:CKC Edit Template



Page 11



Models By Type BUGGIES AND FUN VEHICLES Blitzworld Vigilante Jimini 2

41 58

COBRA REPLICAS AK 427 Dax 427 Gardner Douglas GD 427 Hawk 289 Hawk Kirkham XCS 427

36 43 47 51 54 85

MOTORISED MODEL CARS Hawk G40 & Pathfinder Toylander

52 78

LOTUS SEVEN INSPIRED ROADSTERS GBS Zero Luego Viento MNR VortX Raw Striker Tiger Avon/GTA Toniq CB Westfield Sports

49 60 64 67 75 76 83

REPLICAS Autotune Aristocat Sports Chesil Speedster DeHavilland DVT GT/GTS DNA 3Sixty, 4Thirty, 5cudo, DN8 & West Coast V8 Gardner Douglas GD T70 Hawk 1.8/2.6 Hawk HF3000 JHC DGt 306 GT/GTS Lister Bell STR MEV Replicar Parallel Miura Parallel Torero Southern GT Suffolk C-type Jaguar Suffolk SS100 Jaguar Tornado TSC GT40 Veranti VXF, Vivace & Coupé Xanthos Continuation 23

38 42 44 45 48 50 53 57 59 63 65 66 72 73 74 77 80 84

SPORTS CARS ALS Murtaya Bertini GT25 Dragon Electric Sports Cars Healy Enigma JBA Falcon Marlin Sportster MEV Exocet/Exocet XS RPS RP251

37 40 46 55 56 61 62 68


RTM La Bala RTR Rocket Turismo Avalanche GT Vortex GTT Vortex V2 Xmoor Riot

69 70 79 81 82 86













033-034 Index 2015:CKC Edit Template



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Models By Name AB Sabre AK 427 ALS Murtaya Autotune Aristocat Beauford Bertini GT25 Blitzworld Vigilante Chesil Speedster Dax 427 DeHavilland DVT GT/GTS DNA 3Sixty, 4Thirty, 5cudo, DN8 & West Coast V8 Dragon Electric Sports Cars Gardner Douglas GD 427 Gardner Douglas GD T70 GBS Zero Hawk 1.8/2.6 Hawk 289 Hawk G40 & Pathfinder Hawk HF3000 Hawk Kirkham Healy Enigma JBA Falcon JHC DGt 306 GT/GTS Jimini 2 Lister Bell STR Luego Viento Marlin Sportster MEV Exocet/Exocet XS MEV Replicar MNR VortX Parallel Miura Parallel Torero Raw Striker RPS RP251 RTM La Bala RTR Rocket RTR TR1ke, Triabusa & Mevabusa Southern GT Suffolk C-type Jaguar Suffolk SS100 Jaguar Tiger Avon/GTA Toniq CB Tornado TSC GT40 Toylander Turismo Avalanche GT Veranti VXF, Vivace & CoupĂŠ Vortex GTT Vortex V2 Westfield Sports Xanthos Continuation 23 XCS 427 Xmoor Riot


35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86





035 AB Sabre:CKC Guide 2009



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AB Sabre

AB Sabre 01449 736633

AB Performance, Pie Hatch Farm, Brettenham Road, Buxhall, Suffolk IP14 3DZ

MOST TRACK DAY cars start out as road cars, but not the AB Sabre. It has been designed as a no-compromise race car. Naturally, it will also excel in the track day environment. Part of this ethos was to make adjusting the suspension in the paddock very easy; essential for racing and entertaining for track days. If you start out with a Sabre in track day spec, it will be possible to progress to racing at a later date. It can accommodate a number of bike engines, from 1000cc units to the Suzuki Hayabusa or Kawasaki ZX14. The chassis is made from all round-tube steel. Specification throughout the car is very high: Ohlins dampers, aero section wishbones, anti-roll bars, Wilwood four-pot brake calipers... Since receiving investment from Peter Jones of BBC’s Dragons’ Den, AB has been working to productionise the Sabre. Every chassis rail now has its own computer file, and each car comes with a PDF file of the chassis. As well as streamlining production, this means that if a customer damages their chassis, the necessary replacement parts can be identified and replaced easily.


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Tubular steel Tig welded spaceframe. Powdercoated in a choice of colours. BODYWORK: Nine-piece GRP body finished in gelcoat. DONOR CAR: No donor parts. ENGINE OPTIONS: All current 1000cc motorcycle engines, Suzuki Hayabusa or Kawasaki ZX14 units. SUSPENSION: Inboard pushrod suspension, aero section wishbones. Ohlins dampers. Tuning fork style anti-roll bars. STEERING: Bespoke AB components. Billet aluminium column incorporates paddleshift gearchange. BRAKES: Entry level Wilwood four-pot calipers on solid grooved discs. Optional upgrades. KIT PRICE: Complete basic kit £25,000 plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: £25,000 plus VAT. Turnkey car from £27,000 plus VAT.


036 AK 427:CKC Guide 2009



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AK 427

AK 427 01733 267633

AK Sportscars, Unit 51 Ivatt Way, Westwood Industrial Estate, Peterborough PE3 7PN

FOR OVER 25 years, family-run AK Sportscars has consistently delivered superb sports cars for the Cobra enthusiast. It is renowned for excellent quality, sound engineering, exemplary customer service and value for money. Chassis, bodies and many of the stainless steel parts are made in-house, which gives AK control over the high level of quality. AK offers two chassis options, the ‘standard’ based on the Jaguar XJ6 and their latest Generation II chassis based on the Jaguar XJ40. Both are well designed ladder chassis teamed with a quality glassfibre body. AK is very flexible and regularly supplies reconditioned donor parts and rolling chassis to customers, whilst also incorporating part or full builds. Operating from easy-toreach premises, visitors are given a warm welcome when they visit the workshop to see all aspects of the manufacturing process – great for gaining confidence in the company before ordering.


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Ladderframe with additional backbone bracing and bolt-down scuttle frame, 2mm steel floor. BODYWORK: GRP body, bonded-in inner tub/wings. Shell trial fitted prior to dispatch. Doors, boot lid, bonnet trial fitted and hinged. DONOR CAR: Jaguar XJ6, XJS or XJ40. ENGINE OPTIONS: Ford or Chevrolet small-block V8, LS engines. SUSPENSION: Standard Series 2 or 3 Jaguar XJ6 front wishbones and uprights. Gaz adjustable coil-over dampers. Generation II chassis is XJ40 based. STEERING: AK’s own power steering rack, 23⁄4 turns lock-tolock. BMW column. BRAKES: Front – Jaguar vented discs, 4-pot calipers. Rear – standard inboard solid discs, 2-pot calipers. Outboard on XJ40. KIT PRICE: £3695 plus VAT for an extensive kit package. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £25,000.


037 ALS Murtaya:CKC Guide 2009



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ALS Murtaya

ALS Murtaya 0191 417 7910

ALS Sports Cars, Tyne and Wear

THE ALS MURTAYA was built to a demanding brief: “To design a car that will be able to challenge supercars, purpose-built track cars, and WRC rally cars, whilst retaining a level of comfort and practicality to be used every day.” To that end, its bespoke composite monocoque construction takes the engine and four-wheel drive running gear from a Subaru Impreza to offer topflight performance within a practical package. ALS Sports Cars was newly formed to take on the project, and offers the Murtaya in three different guises. The Roadster R is a comprehensive kit which requires only a donor car to complete. The Roadster RT adds track day suspension, upgraded brakes, a roll bar and a frontmounted intercooler. And finally the Rally is built – unsurprisingly given its name! – specifically for rallying. With its original styling and mix of practicality and performance, a Murtaya is a very quick and capable sports car that can be used all year round.


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Composite monocoque with front subframe. BODYWORK: GRP bodywork supplied in black gelcoat finish. DONOR CAR: Subaru Impreza. ENGINE OPTIONS: Naturally aspirated or turbocharged Subaru |mpreza. 2-litre or 2.5-litre. SUSPENSION: Front – Lower wishbones, coil-over struts, adjustable ride height. Rear – Trailing and lateral locating arms with coil-over struts, adjustable ride height, adjustable dampers. STEERING: Power assisted rack and pinion. BRAKES: 4-piston front calipers with vented discs, single or 2-piston rear calipers with vented discs. Servo assisted. KIT PRICE: From £9995. (Can be purchased in three stages to spread the cost.) BUDGET BUILD COST: From £20,000.


038 Autotune Aristocat Sports:CKC Guide 2009



Page 13

Autotune Aristocat Sports

Autotune Aristocat Sports 01254 886819

Autotune Ltd, Unit 1J Riverside Industrial Estate, Rishton, Blackburn, Lancashire BB1 4NF

FORMED IN 1969 by Anthony and Carolyn Taylor, Autotune can rightly claim to be one of the elder statesmen of the industry. The Aristocat has been on the market since 1984. With a passion for both Jaguars and racing, it’s not a surprise that when Anthony moulded from a genuine XK140, he raced the first Aristocat in the inaugural ’84 kit car championship. For all that, it is very much a road car, with a focus on practicality, affordability and sound engineering. The kit uses 80 per cent of the donor, including all major mechanical components and even seats, dash, loom etc. It means the Aristocat can be built for as little as £9500, but it performs as you’d expect from a car using so many quality Jaguar parts. To maintain continued use of Jaguar donors, an alternative chassis for the Aristocat Sports has been developed to take in later Jaguars from 1986, the XJ40 and subsequent XJ6 cars. A Coupé version is also available, having a dimensionally exact bodyshell, allied to an updated spaceframe chassis more suited to modern roads. Also available: Gemini (Elva replica) and McLaren M1 replica for track days.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Multi-tubular spaceframe made from 16-gauge 1.5in square tube steel. Side impact bars and rig-tested at Manchester Metropolitan University. BODYWORK: Fibreglass bodywork sections supplied in selfcoloured gelcoat finish which does not require painting. DONOR CAR: Jaguar XJ6 or V12 1968 to 1985. Option XJS. New donors: XJ40 or X300 1986 onwards. ENGINE OPTIONS: Jaguar XJ6/V12 or later AJ6. SUSPENSION: Unmodified Jaguar front and rear with re-rated springs (rear track shortened for Coupé). STEERING: Jaguar XJ6 PAS rack and column plus extension. BRAKES: Unmodified Jaguar vented front discs and four-pot calipers with solid in-board rears. KIT PRICE: Standard chassis £2250, XJ40 £2895, Coupé £3000. Standard Body £2500, Coupé £3300. All plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £9500, but have been done for less!

039 Beauford:CKC Guide 2009



Page 13


Beauford 07794 452034

Beauford Cars, Unit 7 Brindley Court, Victoria Business Park, Knypersley, Stoke-on-Trent ST8 7PP

IN A MARKET dominated by two-seat tearaways, the Beauford stands head and shoulders above them in terms of sheer regal splendour. In many ways, the car combines the best of two eras of motoring – the styling reflects the flavour of the 1930s (without being a replica of any one car), yet beneath it lies modern, easily maintained running gear. It even has windup windows and other modern creature comforts. Many Beaufords earn their keep as wedding hire cars, which is a great way of subsidising a car-building hobby. Those cars tend to be powered by the Pinto engine that comes with the Ford Sierra donor vehicle. But the most popular ‘upgrade’ engine – and the one that does justice to the Beauford’s long bonnet – is the Nissan straight-six unit. An effective hood makes the Beauford a capable allweather car (and has saved many a bride from poor weather on the big day) and the factory even offers a hard-top. Bodywork options include two and four-doors, as well as Sedanca De Ville and Landaulette hood arrangements. But something all models share is a sense of quality.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Twin-rail ladderframe with tubular steel body frame. BODYWORK: GRP bodywork, centre-hinged aluminium bonnet. Choice of two and four-door models and Sedanca De Ville and Landaulette roof/hood options. DONOR CAR: Ford Sierra. ENGINE OPTIONS: Ford four-cylinder or V6. Also Rover V8, Nissan straight-six and many others can be fitted. SUSPENSION: Sierra version. Front – Upper wishones, lower track control arms, anti-roll bar, coil-over dampers. Rear – Semi-trailing arms, coil-over dampers. Cortina version. Front – Double wishbones, coil-over dampers. Rear – Live axle on four trailing arms. Coil-over dampers. STEERING: Rack and pinion from donor car. BRAKES: Discs front, option of discs or drums rear. KIT PRICE: Two-door from £4495. Four-door from £5995. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £18,000.

040 Bertini GT25:CKC Guide 2009



Page 13

Bertini GT25

Bertini GT25 07738 728515

Bertini, 31 Neyland Drive, Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire HP19 9SA

NEW FOR 2014, the Bertini GT25 takes inspiration from a number of classic sports cars without being a replica of anything – it is its own original design, and a very appealing one at that. Underneath the original styling is a reliable and affordable basis in the form of a BMW Z3, the Bertini being a straightforward body conversion. So straightforward, in fact, that the Complete Kit Car magazine converted a BMW Z3 to a Bertini GT25 during the two days of the Donington kit car show in 2014. The un-needed BMW panels unbolt, and in their place go a new bonnet and rear panel (and bootlid). The doors remain standard Z3, meaning no hanging of new door panels and good security. The Z3 basis comes with a number of four and sixcylinder engine options, up to the 321bhp straight six of the Z3M. Performance, therefore, can be electrifying. At the same time, the GT25 is an affordable project and the finished article practical enough for daily use. It’s a hugely appealing package.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Standard BMW Z3 platform. BODYWORK: Fibreglass front clamshell and bootlid with prebonded inner skins, bolts and captive plates. Fibreglass rear tail section and side repeater panels. BMW Z3 doors, roof, windscreen, interior and running gear remain standard. DONOR CAR: BMW Z3. ENGINE OPTIONS: 4-cylinder options: 1.8-litre (118bhp), 1.9-litre (140bhp). 6-cylinder options: 2-litre (150bhp), 2.2-litre (170bhp), 2.8-litre (193bhp), 3-litre (231bhp), 3.2-litre M Power (321bhp). SUSPENSION: Standard BMW Z3 platform. STEERING: Standard BMW Z3 platform. BRAKES: Standard BMW Z3 platform. KIT PRICE: Comprehensive kit £3750. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £6000.

041 Blitzworld Vigilante:CKC Guide 2009



Page 13

Blitzworld Vigilante

Blitzworld Vigilante 01782 208050

Blitzworld, Staffordshire

THE NEW VIGILANTE is the latest buggy from Blitzworld with all new styling. The bodywork is made from ABS which is durable and light weight, and is available in different colours. The Vigilante has a very strong integrated Nascar style rollcage which has proved its worth on our track days. It offers a rear engine, fully independent suspension, all new parts available and can be supplied as just a chassis kit, rolling chassis with engine fitted, part built or fully factory built. Blitzworld can cater for most budgets and engine combinations. It is IVA approved and all Vigilantes go on NEW registrations. The Vigilante’s predecessor, the Joyrider, was been featured on Strippers: Cars For Cash on National Geographic TV, driving round Blitzworld’s corporate entertaintment centre in Ashbourne. Blitzworld still offers any engine build, so if you have that old car sitting around and don’t know what to do with it, turn it into a fully functional, very capable buggy that can be used off road, road legal, and as a track car.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Very strong roll cage chassis with crash protection and IVA approved. BODYWORK: Optional and available in virtually any colour. DONOR CAR: Not necessarily required as engine only can just be supplied. ENGINE OPTIONS: Any (chassis price includes engine fitted). SUSPENSION: Custom built front coil-over shocks, and FOX rear adjustable coil-overs. STEERING: Rack and pinion. BRAKES: Twin brake bias system separate front to rear with bias control and disc brakes all round. KIT PRICE: Chassis price £2500. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £5000.

042 Chesil Speedster:CKC Guide 2009



Page 13

Chesil Speedster

Chesil Speedster 01308 897072

Chesil Motor Company, Dorset

THE CHESIL SPEEDSTER is regarded by many as the leading Speedster manufacturer. Chesil builds are backed by full support including assistance in passing the IVA test. All components are available through Chesil which ensures ease of build and so avoiding the frustrating specialist parts search, and also ensures that all the parts will fit! The Chesil is based on the shortened VW chassis onto which is fitted Chesil’s own integrated box section sub chassis and over which is located the high quality fibreglass body. Gearbox and engine packages also come from the VW, but with a variety of upgrade options available. The body is supplied to a high level of finish, including the body in a grey gelcoat, with all essential holes ready cut for lights, horn grilles, instruments etc. Doors are prefitted, along with the engine cover and bonnet. The windscreen assembly and folding hood frame come fitted. It all makes for a simple build. Chesil also offers a partial build service or full factory finished cars with all new parts.


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Shortened Volkswagen Beetle floorpan. BODYWORK: All GRP. DONOR CAR: Volkswagen Beetle. ENGINE OPTIONS: 1641cc, 1800cc or 2-litre air-cooled. New in 2013, water-cooled 1.4-litre (90bhp) Volkswagen (meeting current emission standards). SUSPENSION: Torsion bar with trailing arms front and rear. STEERING: Recirculating ball steering box. BRAKES: Front discs and rear drums. KIT PRICE: Base kit £5265 plus VAT. Full body kit £6690 plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: £10,000 to £15,000. Factory built from £24,320 plus VAT.


043 Dax 427:CKC Guide 2009



Page 13

Dax 427

Dax 427 01279 442661

Dax Sports Cars, 2 Edinburgh Place, Edinburgh Way, Harlow, Essex CM20 2DJ

DAX SPORTS CARS formerly known as DJ Sportscars, was formed in 1968 and, with its Dax 427, was the first UK manufacturer to offer a productionised Cobra replica in 1984. Recent developments to the Dax 427 now mean the customer has more choice than ever before. A new De Dion chassis incorporating the high-tech (and patented) Camber Compensation and Anti-Roll front suspension is now offered alongside Dax’s existing IRS ladderframe chassis. While the standard IRS frame has been superbly developed over the years, this latest De Dion/CC&AR chassis offers grip, composure and ride quality that have to be experienced. Both chassis utilise Jaguar components, while the engine bay has enough room for even the largest big-block American V8s. Dax makes both chassis and bodies in-house, the latter made with high heat resistant resin to improve the quality and longevity of the panels. Elsewhere you’ll find the company’s vast stores can supply everything to complete a car. Backed up by the hugely informative assembly and IVA guides, assembling one of these supercars just couldn’t be easier.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: De Dion – Hybrid, full width backbone chassis. IRS – Hooped full width ladderframe with backbone brace. BODYWORK: One-piece GRP bodyshell in heat resistant resin. Double skinned bonnet, boot lid and doors. DONOR CAR: De Dion – Jaguar XJ40/X300 derivatives. IRS – Earlier Jaguar XJ6/12 or XJS. ENGINE OPTIONS: Any American/UK V8 or Jaguar V12. SUSPENSION: De Dion – Patented Camber Compensation and Anti Roll, De Dion rear. IRS – Double wishbones. STEERING: Dax rack with Sierra column. Option of programmable electric power-assisted steering. BRAKES: Dual circuit, servo assisted braking system with vented front discs and solid or vented (X300 only) rears. KIT PRICE: De Dion chassis from £1570 plus VAT. IRS chassis from £1325 plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £25,000.

044 De Havilland DVT GT/GTS:CKC Guide 2009



Page 13

DeHavilland DVT GT/GTS

DeHavilland DVT GT/GTS 07545 501439

DeHavilland Motor Company, The Old Station House, Ingham, Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk IP31 1NS

DEHAVILLAND MOTOR COMPANY proudly produces the most accurate Ferrari Dino replicas currently available on the UK kit car market. After spending two years developing the former Deon DGT to more accurately replicate the original 1970s icon and using a more modern readily available donor car, the resulting DVT GT and GTS models are more accurate, more maintainable, more usable and more desirable than any Dino replica that went before. Both the coupé (GT) and Targa (GTS) benefit from single donor peace of mind, allowing for easy IVA compatibility and an age-related plate. With the DVT GT and GTS you get all of the benifits of driving one of the most beautiful car designs to ever come out of Italy with none of the drawbacks that owning a 1970s Italian sports car brings. In fact the only thing you will ever have to worry about is where to park it.


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Triangulated steel spaceframe. BODYWORK: Hand laid GRP with gelcoat finish. DONOR CAR: MG TF, MG TF LE500. ENGINE OPTIONS: Rover K-series 1.6, 1.8, 1.8 VVC, KV6. SUSPENSION: Front – Coil spring over gas-filled damper located by double wishbones. Rear – Multi link coil spring over gas-filled damper. STEERING: Modified MG TF column with standard MG TF rack, 2.5 turns lock-to-lock. BRAKES: Front – Ventilated discs with pin-slider calipers. Rear – Solid discs with pin-slider calipers. VVC MG/AP Racing brakes – Vented discs with 4-piston calipers. KIT PRICE: From £5820 including VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £16,000.


045 DNA:CKC Guide 2009



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DNA 3Sixty, 4Thirty, 5cudo, DN8 & West Coast V8

DNA 3Sixty, 4Thirty, 5cudo, DN8 & West Coast V8 0121 326 8800

DNA Automotive, Birmingham

DNA PRODUCES KITS which are as close to the originals as possible. The team also places a great degree of emphasis on making the projects easy for the home-builder to put together. The chosen donor for DNA’s first two models, the 3Sixty and 4Thirty, is the Toyota MR2 Roadster (Mk3), giving the cars a really sound basis on which to build. The Ford Cougar based 5cudo is a more affordable version giving an option for those on a budget, while the Mercedes SL basis of the latest West Coast V8 gives genuine supercar performance to go with the looks. It also retains the folding hard-top, and wellequipped and high quality interior of the base car. The DN8 provides stunning looks and a complete transformation to the donor car with its extensive interior options. Quality of the body moulds is high and, when it’s combined with the DNA interior pack, makes for mainstream levels of fit and finish. DNA is very keen that all its customers’ cars are built to the same high standard (or better) of its own demo. DNA has a well-oiled after-sales service to help each of its customers achieve a high standard.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: 3Sixty and 4Thirty: Toyota MR2 Roadster. 5cudo and DN8: Ford Cougar. West Coast V8: Mercedes SL. BODYWORK: All GRP bodywork, requires painting. DONOR CAR: 3Sixty and 4Thirty: Toyota MR2 Mk3. 5cudo and DN8: Ford Cougar. West Coast V8: Mercedes SL. ENGINE OPTIONS: 3Sixty and 4Thirty: Toyota 1.8-litre VVTi with manual or sequential manual transmission. 5cudo and DN8: Ford 2.5-litre V6 or 2-litre Zetec. West Coast V8: Mercedes V8. SUSPENSION: Donor suspension modified with DNA parts. STEERING: Rack and pinion, power assisted. BRAKES: Discs all-round. KIT PRICE: 3Sixty £4995. 4Thirty from £7500. 5cudo from £6800. DN8 from £7500. West Coast V8 comprehensive kit £12,950. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £12,000 including donor car.

046 Dragon Electric Sports Cars:CKC Guide 2009



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Dragon Electric Sports Cars

Dragon Electric Sports Cars 01874 730320

Dragon Electric Sports Cars, Sorgwm Farm, Cwmdu, Crickhowell NP8 1RT

JOHN LILLY, THE force behind Dragon Electric made his first electric vehicle, a motorcycle, 30 years ago. His company has been building and converting electric vehicles for over 10 years and he has a wealth of knowledge on high performance electric vehicles. He has been chairman of the Battery Vehicle Society and regularly gives talks on all aspects of EV design and use. Dragon has been proven on the track and drag strip over the last couple of years and has achieved over 20 electric track records and one world record drag time. Dragon can convert any kit car to electric power and can provide a consultancy and design service for specials if required. Normal twin motor power limits are 600bhp and 900ft lb of torque. Cars can be designed to be single motor drives of modest performance to maximise range and minimise running costs or high performance rubber burning sprint machines. A range of batteries are available from cheap lead acid sets for ranges of up to 50 miles, high performance lead acid to give high performance at a budget price, or more expensive lithium ion for ranges up to 200 miles.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: As per donor kit car (see text). BODYWORK: As per donor kit car (see text). DONOR CAR: As per donor kit car (see text). ENGINE OPTIONS: 65bhp to 300bhp electric motor. SUSPENSION: As per donor kit car (see text). STEERING: As per donor kit car (see text). BRAKES: As per donor kit car (see text). KIT PRICE: Conversion kit from £3200. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £5200. Turnkey car using a new Vindicator Sprint £23,500

047 Gardner Douglas GD 427:CKC Guide 2009



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C D ye ar ou Ga ar s c gla rd s e s ne pr of leb Sp r od co ra or uc nt tin ts tio in g n uo 25 us

Gardner Douglas GD 427

Gardner Douglas GD 427 01949 843299

GD Sports Cars, Unit 26 Roseland Business Park, Long Bennington, Newark, Nottinghamshire NG23 5FF

GARDNER DOUGLAS WAS launched in 1990 by Andrew Burrows, introducing a familiar shape to the market but bearing very different underpinnings to the norm. Featuring a stiff backbone chassis allied to a high quality composite semimonocoque body, the GD427 set new standards. The design instantly out-performed its rivals on the track with many race championship wins, but more notably it is on the road where most owners will feel the benefits. Here the GD 427 has a mainstream-like poise and refinement that will appeal to the more discerning buyer, with pin sharp steering and rattle-free smooth ride, it is a very pleasant place to be touring the open road. Monocoque body construction means the build is straightforward. Chassis and bodies are made in-house at GD, with rolling chassis, part and full-builds all available. Two different suspension packages are offered, GDJAG using Jaguar XJ6 2/3 axles or the GDEURO which uses GD purpose designed fully adjustable double wishbones, cast alloy uprights and a BTR differential.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Multi-tubular backbone spaceframe. BODYWORK: High quality semi-monocoque composite body. DONOR CAR: GD Jag – Jaguar XJ6. GD Euro – Bespoke parts. ENGINE OPTIONS: Ford and Chevrolet small-block V8s and latest GM LS EFI V8s. SUSPENSION: GD Jag. Front – Jaguar wishbones and stub axles, coil-over dampers. Rear – Jaguar hub carriers, wishbones, driveshafts, coil-over dampers. GD Euro. Front – GD double wishbones, alloy uprights, coil-over dampers. Rear – Double wishbones, alloy uprights, coil-over dampers. BRAKES: Jaguar outboard front ventilated discs and calipers plus rear inboard solid discs and calipers on GD Jag. Outboard vented discs all-round on GD Euro. KIT PRICE: GD 427 chassis £2565, Mk3 body £3250. Mk4 body £3450. GD Euro rolling chassis £8650. All plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £18,000 plus VAT plus engine etc.



C D ye ar ou Ga ar s c gla rd s e s ne pr of leb Sp r od co ra or uc nt tin ts tio in g n uo 25 us

048 Gardner Douglas GD T70:CKC Guide 2009

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Gardner Douglas GD T70

Gardner Douglas GD T70 01949 843299

GD Sports Cars, Unit 26 Roseland Business Park, Long Bennington, Newark, Nottinghamshire NG23 5FF

THE GD T70 takes its inspiration from the mighty Lola T70 CanAm racer. Gardner Douglas has given it a typically modern twist with an utterly contemporary space frame chassis and GD’s own suspension package. Tweaking the styling has also endowed the T70 with greater interior cockpit space as well as allowing the flowing styling to meet with modern IVA regulations. Bringing the car bang up to date with the option of the Moda version means lovers of the iconic shape can have the best of both worlds and drive the car in its raw open track focused state or be in comfort at speed touring the open roads rain or shine. Weight is circa 900kg and with 450bhp to 650bhp available – the GD T70 offers true supercar performance. All major parts are made in-house by GD. Kits can be purchased in stages while the company also offers part builds and complete turn-key cars. Factory visits are highly recommended.


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Multi-tubular space frame panelled in NS4 aluminium. BODYWORK: Pre-coloured GRP panels in standard or high performance materials. DONOR CAR: None. All new parts. ENGINE OPTIONS: GM LS V8. SUSPENSION: Front – GD cast alloy uprights using lower wishbones and upper rocking wishbones operating inboard horizontally mounted coil-over dampers. Rear – GD cast alloy uprights using upper wishbones and rocking lower wishbones operating inboard coil-over dampers. STEERING: GD steering rack, two turns lock-to-lock. BRAKES: AP 4-pot calipers with 13in ventilated discs. KIT PRICE: Chassis £3300, body £3500 plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: Circa £30,000 plus chosen engine and transmission.


049 GBS Zero:CKC Guide 2009



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GBS Zero

GBS Zero 01623 860990

Great British Sports Cars, Maun Way, Boughton, Newark, Nottingham NG22 9ZD

GREAT BRITISH SPORTS Cars’ Zero chassis accommodates most sizes in comfort along with exceptional ride and handling characteristics. GBS now offers the Zero GT chassis which is wider by 4cm per side to give a more generous and comfortable feel, without compromising the ride or handling. Recently added to the Zero range is the new Zero Mazda chassis which uses the unique design features of the current Ford-based Zero. The GBS Zero is also available with a bespoke race version which will take various mainstream manufacturers’ engines. The Zero has been designed to be at home on the road or competing out on the track. It’s an ideal build for the novice or expert and, with a choice of traditional aluminium or stainless steel body panels, combined with nine GRP colours, you can personalise the Zero to a distinctive style and look. The company offers a comprehensive range of parts and upgrade items for the Zero, and can support other kit car marques via the Kit Spares website:


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Square and round section spaceframe chassis. Manufactured with comprehensive jigs. Right and left-hand drive versions. Chassis and wishbones powdercoated. BODYWORK: Aluminium or stainless steel panels. Fibreglass nosecone and wings (with a choice of nine gelcoat colours). Painted option also available on factory builds. DONOR CAR: Ford, Mazda and Honda. ENGINE OPTIONS: Various 4-cylinder engines from Ford, Mazda, Honda, Audi, VW, Vauxhall and Renault. Various motorcycle engines can be accommodated. SUSPENSION: Independent double wishbone front and rear with adjustable coil-over shock absorbers. STEERING: Quick rack. BRAKES: Front – Disc. Rear – Disc or drum. KIT PRICE: Starter Kits from £2345 including VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £19,995 plus VAT.


050 Hawk 1.8 2.6:CKC Guide 2009



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Hawk 1.8/2.6

Hawk 1.8/2.6 01892 750341

Hawk Cars, Oakdene, Riverhall Hill, Frant, East Sussex TN3 9EP

HAVING ESTABLISHED AN almost obsessional eye for detail on all its various Cobra replicas, Hawk Cars turned its attention on the original AC Ace. Devoid of any wheelarch flaring and with its distinctive front end, the Hawk 1.8/2.6 offers the ultimate in understated sophistication. It uses the same chassis package as the 289, being a twin 31⁄2 in round-tube chassis of replica origins, but designed to accept suspension components from the MGB (knock-on splines also mean fitting the correct wire wheels is easy). For those that can’t help themselves, there are a number of suspension upgrades offered by Hawk Cars, but the MG components work wonderfully in this car. The 2.5 Triumph is ideal and adds authenticity (as does the original Ford Zephyr 2.6). However, Hawk recommends fitting the excellent BMW straight 6 engine which makes a powerful modern alternative. Bodywork is supplied in a grey primer gel and is pre-fitted to the chassis at the factory with doors, boot and bonnet hinged and inner panels fitted. From here, Hawk can supply everything right up to a complete replica interior.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: 31⁄2in twin round tube ladder chassis. BODYWORK: Fibreglass body supplied in primer gel colour. All internal panels, doors, boot and bonnet installed or pre-hung. Body is jig located onto chassis for perfect alignment. Floors and rear bulkhead in sandwich of 9mm resin-bonded marine ply with GRP either side. DONOR CAR: MGB. ENGINE OPTIONS: Triumph, BMW or Ford Zephyr straight six. SUSPENSION: Front – MGB double wishbone with lever arm damper and coil spring, MGB stub axle and bearings etc. Rear – Live axle, leaf springs and lever arm dampers (upgrade to telescopic damper available). STEERING: MGB rack and column. BRAKES: Donor front discs and rear drums. KIT PRICE: Body/chassis kit £6100 plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £10,000.

051 Hawk 289:CKC Guide 2009



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Hawk 289

Hawk 289 01892 750341

Hawk Cars, Oakdene, Riverhall Hill, Frant, East Sussex TN3 9EP

HERE’S ONE FOR those who find the overtly muscular styling of the 427 replica too much. Hawk Cars’ wonderful recreation of the earlier 289 is a joy. With its more subtle ‘slabside’ arches and underslung exhaust system, the 289 oozes class. The 289 uses a twin 31⁄2 in round-tube chassis which closely emulates the original but suits the MGB donor underpinnings. This is the perfect set-up for the 289, although those who want something with a bit more sophistication can opt for the company’s unique MGB front suspension upgrade or, if fitting a high power V8, Hawk’s Jaguar XJ6-based replacement IRS. The ideal engines for the 289 are either the Rover V8 or Ford 302 (the 289cu in V8 etc is also utterly suitable). Body is supplied in a grey primer gel finish and is pre-fitted with doors, boot and bonnet hinged and inner panels. With a good soft-top and side windows (an optional hardtop is available), plus the 289’s large boot, this is a great touring car with a genuine level of practicality. Add in the affordable MGB underpinnings and the 289 is a terrific option for those looking for a Cobra replica with a difference.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: 31⁄2in twin round tube ladder chassis. BODYWORK: Fibreglass body supplied in primer gel colour. All internal panels, doors, boot and bonnet installed or pre-hung. Body is jig located onto chassis for perfect alignment. DONOR CAR: MGB. ENGINE OPTIONS: Rover V8, Ford small-block V8. SUSPENSION: Front – MGB double wishbones with lever arm dampers and coil springs, MGB stub axles and bearings etc. Rear – Live axle, leaf springs and lever arm dampers (upgrade to telescopic damper available). Upgrades – Coil-over front suspension conversion and full Jaguar IRS rear. STEERING: MGB rack and column. BRAKES: Donor front discs and rear drums. KIT PRICE: Body/chassis kit £6350. FIA: £6600. Sebring: £6500. Le Mans: £6950 (all prices plus VAT). BUDGET BUILD COST: From £12,000.

052 Hawk G40:CKC Guide 2009



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Hawk G40 and Pathfinder

Hawk G40 and Pathfinder 01892 750341

Hawk Cars, Oakdene, Riverhall Hill, Frant, East Sussex TN3 9EP

HAWK CARS HAS lovingly re-created the little cars that we all dreamt of as kids in the ’50s. The J40 pedal car was originally proudly made by disabled miners and servicemen, under the wing of the Austin Motor Company, along with the Pathfinder. The J40 found great popularity on the seaside roundabouts and, nowadays, in the fantastic pedal car race at Goodwood. The original cars now fetch many thousands of pounds. High quality replica kits of these cars are now available from Hawk Cars, and called the G40. The G40 bodyshell, beautifully moulded in high-quality GRP, comes complete with the floor bonded-in, the inner arches fitted and boot and bonnet hinged. The kit also includes GRP bumpers, the dummy engine moulding, and little instrument/dash moulding. It comes with the rear chassis frame (designed to accept the axle, wheels, differential, motor, brake, switch, speed control and batteries from a Shoprider Sovereign mobility scooter). The front axle assembly is complete with rose jointed steering links and steering column. They’re capable of 15 miles on a charge with an adult on board, and further with a child.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Hawk fabricated frame. BODYWORK: GRP bodyshell, bonded-in floors and inner wheelarches. Hinged bonnet and bootlid. DONOR CAR: Shoprider Sovereign mobility scooter. ENGINE OPTIONS: Shoprider motor. SUSPENSION: Standard Shoprider Sovereign. STEERING: Standard Shoprider Sovereign. BRAKES: Standard Shoprider Sovereign. KIT PRICE: £1250 plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £1900.

053 Hawk HF3000:CKC Guide 2009



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Hawk HF3000

Hawk HF3000 01892 750341

Hawk Cars, Oakdene, Riverhall Hill, Frant, East Sussex TN3 9EP

THE HAWK HF3000 Lancia Stratos replica was originally launched in 1986 after Gerry Hawkridge, then MD of Transformer Cars, took moulds from an original car. As with all Hawk products, authenticity is the key, with not only the external shape but also the chassis, suspension and complete interior. As per the original, the Hawk uses a large number of components from the Fiat and Lancia group. Power tends to come from either Alfa’s terrific 3-litre V6 (HF3000) or the most recent 3.2-litre 32-valve unit (HF3200). Finally, if funds allow, a Ferrari V6 or V8 can be fitted. The Hawk offers superlative handling, supple suspension and a driving environment like no other. It’s truly spectacular. Gerry Hawkridge’s dedication to the Stratos compares to that of his obsession with the Cobra, and he is still developing the kit after all these years. Most recently, he has introduced the Giro d’Italia model, an exact replica of a circuit racing Stratos.


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Tubular steel and folded section frame with integral roll cage finished in black powdercoat. BODYWORK: All fibreglass bodywork supplied in grey primer gelcoat finish. Various body style options. DONOR CAR: Fiat X1/9 and Lancia Beta/Alfa predominantly. ENGINE OPTIONS: 2-litre Lancia, Alfa 3-litre and 3.2-litre V6, various Ferrari V6 and V8. SUSPENSION: Front – Lower transverse arms, tie bars, top wishbones, coil-over dampers. Rear – Lancia Beta front struts (option of special Leda units), Hawk uprights and lower wishbones, anti-roll bar. STEERING: Triumph rack with Fiat column. BRAKES: Discs front and rear with various upgrades. KIT PRICE: HF3000 kit £12,500 plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £20,000.


054 Hawk Kirkham:CKC Guide 2009



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Hawk Kirkham

Hawk Kirkham 01892 750341

Hawk Cars, Oakdene, Riverhall Hill, Frant, East Sussex TN3 9EP

GERRY HAWKRIDGE’S HAWK Cars stepped up a gear in 2001 when it became the sole UK and European agent for the American Kirkham 427 replicas. These extraordinary creations take authenticity to the limit, with all components interchangeable with original cars and the bodywork made in aluminium. They are the ultimate Cobra replica. The Kirkham range accommodates most of the 289/427 variations of the period, with both leaf and coil spring cars, 289 slab side and FIA, 427SC etc. These are no-compromise creations, where every single component is carefully chosen and, if necessary, specially made to meet requirements. A visit to Hawk Cars’ UK based works is a unique experience for any Cobra die-hard. While Kirkham chassis and bodies are made elsewhere, kit assembly, rolling chassis and full builds are all undertaken here, and there are invariably several in the factory at any one time. Gerry Hawkridge is possibly the most knowledgeable person on Cobras real and replica in the UK and his lifelong obsession with the cars is perfectly matched by the Kirkham’s attention to detail.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: 3in (289) or 4in (427) twin-tube ladderframe chassis with complete tubular steel body subframe. BODYWORK: All aluminium. DONOR CAR: None. ENGINE OPTIONS: Ford V8 in various guises. SUSPENSION: 289 Front – Transverse leaf spring, lower wishbones, Koni dampers. Forged steel uprights and spline or peg-drive hubs etc. 427 Front – Double wishbones with Penske coil-over dampers. 289 Rear – Transverse leaf spring, lower wishbones, Koni dampers. Forged alloy hub carriers. 427 Rear – Double wishbones with coil-overs. STEERING: Rack and pinion, 31⁄2 turns lock-to-lock. BRAKES: Front and rear – Solid discs with aluminium Girling repro racing calipers. KIT PRICE: Aluminium shell on chassis £26,500 plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £60,000.

055 Healy Enigma:CKC Guide 2009



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Healy Enigma

Healy Enigma 07584 087056

Healy Designs, Hill House, Hilborough, Thetford, Norfolk IP26 5BU

IT’S QUITE OBVIOUS where the Healy Enigma gets its inspiration: styling cues are borrowed from the classic Healey 3000, although it’s updated and has its own clear identity. Under the skin, it has a very solidly constructed spaceframe chassis with steel floors and bulkheads. Donor is the Mazda MX-5, in either Mk2 or Mk3 forms. Inside, the Healy borrows heavily from the Mazda, retaining its dashboard, seats and door cards. For the demonstrator, all have been trimmed in leather to increase the quality. The excellent hood is carried over too. In fact, the ethos was to use enough from the Mazda to make the Healy practical (it’s up to long-distance touring and everyday use) but not so much to detract from the car being something special. Healy Designs also offers the Enigma using the Mk3 MX-5 as a donor which brings more powerful 2-litre engines and higher quality interiors. The firm can offer the car with a Rover V8. Building a Mk1 based car to the spec of the demo (retrimmed interior, quality hood, metallic paint) costs £15,000, making this high quality offering very good value.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Spaceframe made from square tube steel. Steel floors and bulkheads. BODYWORK: GRP bodywork, modified Mazda MX-5 doors. DONOR CAR: Mazda MX-5. ENGINE OPTIONS: Mazda MX-5 in 1.6 or 1.8-litre forms. Mk3 based car has 2-litre option. Rover or Lexus V8 can also be fitted. SUSPENSION: Front and rear – Mazda MX-5 double wishbones. STEERING: Mazda MX-5 rack and pinion. Some models have power-assisted steering. BRAKES: Discs all-round. KIT PRICE: Mk2 from £6500, Mk3 from £6750. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £15,000.

056 JBA Falcon:CKC Guide 2009



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JBA Falcon

JBA Falcon 01508 493205

JBA Motors, Norfolk

THE JBA FALCON was launched in 1982, originally based on both the Ford Cortina and Sierra. Nowadays, JBA Motors manufactures the BMW-based JBA Falcon. Using all the major components from a BMW 3-Series, the new JBA Falcon provides the comfort, reliability and low running costs of a new car. The BMW 3-series offers a wealth of engines, from an economic 4-cylinder to a more powerful 6-cylinder M3 engine. Both can be used in the Falcon. The JBA Falcon uses a substantial ladderframe chassis that comes with the central body unit factory fitted, which together gives the car excellent rigidity and strength. The new car has been re-designed around drivability, capitalising on the wealth of space the JBA Falcon offers, with standard size adjustable seats at the front and a large half shelf seat at the rear. It now offers the supple suspension and driving experience the beautiful design deserves.


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Ladderframe. BODYWORK: All fibreglass finished in gelcoat. Aluminium bonnet panels and stainless steel brightwork. DONOR CAR: BMW 3-series 1992 to 2001. ENGINE OPTIONS: 4-cylinder or 6-cylinder. SUSPENSION: Double wishbone front and rear suspension system. STEERING: Ford rack and BMW column. BRAKES: Discs front and rear. KIT PRICE: Starter chassis pack: £2750 (including VAT). Full build pack: £8,472 (including VAT). BUDGET BUILD COST: From £14,000.


057 JH DGt 306 GT/GTS:CKC Guide 2009



Page 13


JHC DGt 306 GT/GTS 01278 661316

JH Classics, Hedging Barton, Taunton, Somerset, TA7 0DF

FOR OVER 25 years, JH Classics has led the way for refining, developing and delivering creative engineering for the Ferrari Dino, culminating in the development and integration of a modern production car platform with superb performance and reliability. The evolution of one of the most iconic cars ever made. The Toyota MR2 production car platform is extensively reworked in all the performance, safety and service areas to as-new, and then transformed with the new DGt Dino composite bodywork, with options for V6 3-litre engines and superbly detailed original aesthetics – such as quad slashback exhausts, hand crafted chrome fittings and stunning full leather interiors for either the GT or GTS. This formula gives the customer a ‘new’ car but with far greater charm and driver satisfaction. Depreciation is low, service costs inexpensive, and easy insurance at full value is available. JHC offers a full build service including re-registration of the DGt and comprehensive Home Conversion Packages.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Standard Toyota MR2 Mk2 unaltered. BODYWORK: All fibreglass bodywork fitted over MR2, supplied in white gelcoat finish. GT and GTS options available. DONOR CAR: Toyota MR2 Mk2 GT hard top or Targa top T-bar 1990 to 1999. ENGINE OPTIONS: 2-litre and 2-litre turbo Toyota, V6 Toyota 3-litre Camry 24-valve. SUSPENSION: Standard Toyota MR2 lowered by 40mm, options for coil-over damper competition units. Anti roll bars. STEERING: Standard Toyota MR2, PAS option. Adjustable column height and length. BRAKES: Toyota MR2 discs front and rear with various upgrades, servo assisted standard, ABS option. KIT PRICE: Full body and essentials package £5150, plus various package options. BUDGET BUILD COST: £15,000 to £17,000. No IVA.

058 Jimini 2:CKC Guide 2009



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Jimini 2


Jimini 2 07831 227741

Jimini Automobile Company, Suite 36, Beacon Buildings, Leighswood Road, Aldridge, West Mids WS9 8AA

THE KIT CAR SCENE has traditionally offered cheap and cheerful kits but, in recent years, advancements in design and engineering have pushed up costs. So the Jimini 2 comes as a breath of fresh air: it’s possible to build one for as little as £4000, yet it’s still up to the quality today’s kit car buyer demands. The car has a monocqoue construction, and the quality of the mouldings is high throughout. The GRP body/chassis accepts donor parts from the Mini which means the Jimini inherits the Mini’s entertaining roadholding and handling.The only exterior part carried over from the Mini is the windscreen. It’s a hoot to drive and totally addictive. It’s cheap to run and insure, too, thanks to its modest power. (Although if it’s too modest, you can opt for a turbo engine!). It’s up to you how much you spend on finishing a Jimini, but even if you push the boat out on wheels, seats and so on, you’re not going to spend a fortune. When you buy a Jimini, you’ll be dealing with a small, friendly company which thrives on personal service. You won’t go far wrong here.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: One-piece GRP monocoque body/chassis, separate bonnet and bootlid, separate roll-over cage. BODYWORK: See above. DONOR CAR: Any Mini – although post-1985 models are best (they have the tandem brake master cylinder which is required by the IVA test). ENGINE OPTIONS: Any A-series unit, from 998cc to the turbocharged edition used in top-spec MG Metros. SUSPENSION: Front and rear: Standard Mini subframes and suspension set-ups. STEERING: Rack and pinion from Mini. BRAKES: Drum front and back, or discs at the front depending on donor. KIT PRICE: £2850. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £4000. Fully built to your specification from £8750.

059 Lister Bell STR:CKC Guide 2009



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Lister Bell STR

Lister Bell STR 07990 543517

Lister Bell, Newark, Nottinghamshire

LISTER BELL WAS established in early 2010 with the objective of building a Stratos replica for this millenium. The car made its debut at the 2010 Stoneleigh show as a rolling chassis complete with suspension featuring fully adjustable wishbones, bespoke steering rack, billet aluminium uprights and custom dampers. The first kit was sent to France in August 2011 and a consistent stream of orders for kits and fully built cars has followed since. The Stratos replica has always had a reputation as being a car which was difficult to build. The STR has changed that due to the level of continued development Lister Bell has put into the chassis, the mechanical components and especially the fit and finish of the bodywork. The STR has made the Stratos replica far more accessible to those who have previously been put off by the duration and complexity of a build. The STR pays homage to the Stratos externally and internally but offers an array of mechanical parts, engineering and safety which allow it to sit comfortably alongside the highest regarded cars in the industry.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Spaceframe chassis, folded sheet central monocoque structure with box section front and rear subframes. Integral rollcage built to MSA standards, optional door intrusion bars. BODYWORK: GRP bodywork available in pre-coloured gelcoat. DONOR CAR: Alfa 156 2.5 V6, Alfa 166/GTV/GTA for higher performance option. Ferrari Mondial 3.2 for STR-M variant. ENGINE OPTIONS: Choice of any transverse Alfa V6, Ferrari V6 or V8. Toyota 3.5 V6 for the US and Australian markets. Alternative units considered on an individual basis. SUSPENSION: Strut type rear. Double wishbone front with aircraft grade billet aluminum uprights and height adjustable damping. STEERING: Aluminium rack with 2.3 or 2.6 turns lock to lock. BRAKES: 4 piston calipers, 300mm ventilated discs as standard. KIT PRICE: Starter package £3495 plus VAT, Body package £3695 plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £20,000.

060 Luego Viento:CKC Guide 2009



Page 13

Luego Viento

Luego Viento 01356 622827

Luego Sports Cars, Crosshill Garage, Montrose Road, Brechin DD9 7PL

LUEGO SPORTS CARS was established in the late ’90s by offering prefabricated Locost chassis and suspension parts, before moving on to develop its own version of the evergreen Lotus Seven inspired replica, the Velocity, followed by the supersize Viento. The Luego Viento came into being in order to fill Luego’s regular enquiries for a larger version of its exciting Velocity. The Viento is almost 6in wider and 12in longer; you will not struggle to get comfortable in the Viento. The other advantage of the Viento’s generous girth is the ease with which larger engines can be accommodated. The Viento 400, our ‘top of the range’ car, is fitted with a Chevrolet LS2 V8 (see main photo). Other engines include BMW straight six, Alfa V6, Audi 1.8 Turbo and of course the Rover V8. Not surprisingly the Viento chassis is a beefy spaceframe designed with such power units in mind. The suspension follows the popular convention of double wishbones at each corner and the car is now based on the E36 version of the BMW 3-series.

SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Spaceframe using variety of different tubular steel. BODYWORK: Stainless steel side panels (aluminium to order) with GRP bonnet, nose cone, scuttle, rear panel and wings. Gelcoat as standard in most colours. Paint finish to order. DONOR CAR: BMW 3-series E36. The Sierra version is still available on request. ENGINE OPTIONS: Almost endless. SUSPENSION: Front – Double wishbones, coil-over dampers and Sierra (or BMW E36) lower strut/stub axle. Rear – Fabricated rear hub carriers, Sierra (or BMW E36) differential, drive shafts and hubs. Coil-over dampers. STEERING: Escort steering rack with Sierra (or BMW) column. BRAKES: Sierra solid or vented front discs with solid rear discs at the back. KIT PRICE: Starter kit £3740. Full kit £6490. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £11,500.



061 Marlin Sportster:CKC Guide 2009



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Marlin Sportster

Marlin Sportster 01363 773772

Marlin Sports Cars, PO Box 88, Crediton, Devon EX17 3WZ

MARLIN INTRODUCED THE aggressively styled Sportster in 1998 as a hardcore alternative to the sevenesque kits, and the motoring media were blown away when they drove a factory demo car fitted with a 320bhp BMW M3 engine. This flagship model highlighted the Sportster’s comprehensive use of BMW 3-series and 5-series donors. The Sportster utilises items like the donor’s complete rear suspension and braking system, steering column and even small items like the indicator stalks. The biggest engines produce over 340bhp in standard form. All the donor parts are attached to Marlin’s peripheral frame monocoque chassis and the result is a traditional style roadster completely devoid of scuttle shake. Allied to a largely aluminium body including doors (GRP nose, wings and rear body section), the Sportster has a real feeling of quality. It will accommodate both tall and wide drivers. A real plus point of the Sportster is its novel roof arrangement that all stows on board when in open-top guise and incorporates rigid sidescreens and fold-down windscreen. The new Avatar One (below right) will arrive next year.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: All-steel semi-monocoque peripheral frame. Galvanised steel floors. Chassis includes deformable shock-absorbing struts in front and rear bumpers. BODYWORK: Largely aluminium including doors with fibreglass nosecone, wings and rear body section. DONOR CAR: BMW 3-series or 5-series. ENGINE OPTIONS: All BMW installations, including diesels. SUSPENSION: Front – Marlin double wishbones, adjustable coil-over dampers, BMW stub axle and hubs. Rear – BMW rear subframe locating BMW’s multi-link IRS suspension, BMW springs and dampers. Donor BMW wheels can be used. STEERING: Marlin rack and standard column. BRAKES: Vented front and solid rear discs from donor. KIT PRICE: From as little as £3900 plus VAT for Module 1 chassis pack. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £10,000.

062 MEV Exocet/Exocet XS:CKC Guide 2009



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MEV Exocet and Exocet XS

MEV Exocet and Exocet XS 01623 655522

MEV Ltd, Ratcher Hill Quarry, Southwell Road, Mansfield, Nottinghamshire NG21 0HJ

THE EXOCET XS is yet another clever kit car concept from MEV. Under the GRP skin is a spaceframe chassis and the engine and running gear from a Mazda MX-5. So far, so conventional. But it’s the way the MX-5 parts are packaged that’s clever. The entire engine, gearbox, differential and suspension are carried over in standard form. Thanks to the Mazda’s unique ‘Powerplant Frame’ (PPF), all the components remain as one unit when removed from the MX-5. The MEV chassis then simply bolts to it. This approach keeps the build simple and makes the build very affordable. If you sell off the unwanted parts from your MX-5 donor, it becomes very affordable indeed – it’s possible to assemble an Exocet for £3000 if you’re very careful. An optional roof adds to the practicality of the optional windscreen. Similar in concept – but having an entirely different chassis and body – is the standard Exocet, choose your drive.


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Round tube spaceframe. BODYWORK: All GRP supplied in coloured gelcoat finish. DONOR CAR: Mazda MX-5. ENGINE OPTIONS: Mazda MX-5 in 1.6 or 1.8-litre forms. SUSPENSION: Front – Mazda MX-5 double wishbones with coil-over dampers. Rear – Mazda MX-5 double wishbones with coil-over dampers. STEERING: Mazda MX-5 rack and pinion. BRAKES: Discs all-round. KIT PRICE: Exocet – £2595 plus VAT. Exocet XS – £2795 plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: |From £3000 (see text).


063 MEV Replicar:CKC Guide 2009



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MEV Replicar®

MEV Replicar® 01623 655522

MEV Ltd, Ratcher Hill Quarry, Southwell Road, Mansfield, Nottinghamshire NG21 0HJ

WITH AN ASTON Martin DBR1 having sold at auction for £20m, it’s put beyond the reach of almost every car enthusiast. But what if you could have the style in a selfbuild format for around £7000? As with everything from MEV, the Replicar® has been designed to be accessible to all pockets. The Replicar® is based on the same Mazda MX-5 components as the other cars in the company’s range. Just as they do, it retains the engine, gearbox and suspension in their original format. That’s what helps to keep the build cost down and, thanks to the proliferation of Mazda spares, running it will be very affordable too. The interior is basic, with the round tubes of the chassis on show just as they would have been in a classic race car. Doors can be cut out, or you can just step over them like Stirling Moss would have. The demonstrator car pictured features wire wheels which are available from MEV at £250 each. They bolt directly to the Mazda MX-5 hubs.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Spaceframe chassis made from a mix of round and square tube steel. BODYWORK: GRP bodywork, one-piece main body with separate bonnet. DONOR CAR: Mazda MX-5. ENGINE OPTIONS: Any Mazda MX-5 engine, 1.6 or 1.8-litre. SUSPENSION: Front – Mazda MX-5 double wishbones with coil-over dampers. Rear – Mazda MX-5 double wishbones with coil-over dampers. STEERING: Mazda MX-5 rack and pinion. BRAKES: Discs all-round. KIT PRICE: Comprehensive kit package £4995 plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £7000.

064 MNR VortX:CKC Guide 2009



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MNR VortX and GM

STOP PRESS MNR and GM are proud to be in the final three of the prestigious 750 Motor Club design and innovation award, judged by ex-Lotus F1 driver John Miles.

MNR VortX and GM 01423 780196

MNR, Holly House Farm, Moorcock Lane, Darley, Harrogate, North Yorkshire HG3 2QL

IN THE FIRST full season of racing in the RGB, these superbly engineered cars have achieved five race wins, five second places, five third places, six fastest laps and three lap records and second and fourth overall in the championship. There have also been excellent results in various hillclimbs and sprints, worldwide. Bespoke turnkey cars, and easy build kits, can be supplied for either road or racing, also in right or left-hand drive versions. MNR has regular international shipping experience. These cars can also be made road legal (with either bike or car engines), and MNR can take any stress out of the build, and registration, with the issue of a 130-page illustrated easy build manual, and providing all the paperwork free of charge for the IVA test and road registration. Should you need it, there is full and speedy technical back-up. The image above is taken at Silverstone, where MNR achieved a 1-2-3-4 finish, and a new lap record.


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Steel spaceframe in 16, 18 and 20g round-tube. Standard RAC approved roll bar made to customer’s height. BODYWORK: VortX gelcoat 7 panels, or ready to paint GM2/3 panels. DONOR CAR: Ford Sierra or Mazda MX-5 or BMW drivetrain. ENGINE OPTIONS: Many including Mazda MX-5, Ford Duratec, Honda S2000, Rover V8, plus motorcycle options. SUSPENSION: Front – Unequal length double wishbones, inboard Protech coil-over dampers, lightweight fabricated uprights. Rear – Independent rear suspension, unequal length double wishbones, Protech coil-over dampers. STEERING: New quick rack, 2.4 turns lock-to-lock. BRAKES: Front – 4-pot alloy calipers, drilled, grooved, slotted discs. Rear – Sierra discs which can be drilled, grooved and slotted or Mazda MX-5 discs. Optional 2-pot billet calipers. KIT PRICE: Comprehensive kits from £3995 including VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £8000.


065 Parallel Miura:CKC Guide 2009



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Parallel Miura

Parallel Miura 07425 131677 Parallel Designs, Morden, Surrey

PARALLEL DESIGNS, MANUFACTURER of the sensational Torero, also offers a replica of the stunning Miura. While the company began its project using bodywork from an earlier replica (Prova), every other aspect of this car is brand new. The chassis is a thoroughly reworked version of its own Torero, being a spaceframe structure with additional backbone and steel floors and bulkheads. Meanwhile, the suspension follows the Torero’s tried and tested formula of double wishbones and aluminium hub carriers at each corner. Under the rear canopy, you’ll find an Audi RS4 bi-turbo engine producing 400bhp coupled with a 6-speed gearbox. This is the only option Parallel is looking to offer and clearly demonstrates the company’s determination to make its Miura a quality item. Other significant features include the braking system, which comes with ABS as standard, operating huge Brembo 360mm by 30mm vented front and rear discs. All variants of the Miura will be available, from the standard S to the SV and the Roadster. The company supplies kit packages, rolling chassis options and turnkey packages.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Multi-tubular spaceframe with integral backbone and steel bulkheads and floor. BODYWORK: Individual GRP and carbon fibre panels in gelcoat finished to high standards. DONOR CAR: No single donor car. ENGINE OPTIONS: Audi V6, including bi-turbo RS4. SUSPENSION: Front – Double wishbones, cast aluminium hub carriers, coil-over dampers. Rear – Double wishbones, cast aluminium hub carriers, coil-over dampers. STEERING: Parallel Designs rack and column. BRAKES: 360mm by 30mm Brembo discs. ABS. KIT PRICE: Basic chassis package £5595. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £30,000. Factory built from £60,000.

066 Parallel Diablo:CKC Guide 2009



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Parallel Torero

Parallel Torero 07425 131677

Parallel Designs, Morden, Surrey

THE AUDACIOUS TORERO arrived in 2000, after two years of extensive development, and this highly authentic Lamborghini Diablo replica has been joined by every variant of this Italian supercar – VT, SV, SE, GT and 6.0L. Underpinning the glamorous curves is a substantial spaceframe chassis with an additional backbone structure and steel floor and bulkheads. A classic double-wishbone suspension package keeps the ride and handling well honed, while engine options centre around the Rover V8 and BMW V12. One car already sports a 500bhp BMW V12, endowing the Torero with performance to match its looks. Inside the cockpit, every effort has been made to replicate the original icon. All the dash and seats and so on have been moulded from an original car (as is the bodywork). Trimmed in leather and/or Alcantara, this is an extraordinary place to exploit the Torero’s performance and handling. The company supplies comprehensive kit packages, rolling chassis options and, of course, complete turnkey packages.


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Multi-tubular spaceframe chassis with integral backbone and steel bulkheads and floor. BODYWORK: Individual fibreglass and carbon fibre panels in gelcoat finished to high standards. DONOR CAR: No single donor car. ENGINE OPTIONS: Rover V8 or BMW V12. SUSPENSION: Front – Double wishbones, cast aluminium hub carriers, coil-over dampers. Rear – Double wishbones, cast aluminium hub carriers, coil-over dampers. STEERING: Parallel Designs rack and column. BRAKES: 360mm by 30mm Brembo calipers with discs, ABS. KIT PRICE: Basic chassis package £5595. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £30,000 (turn-key from £60,000).


067 Raw Striker:CKC Guide 2009



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Raw Striker

Raw Striker 01432 371169

Raw Striker, The Grange, Shelwick, Hereford HR1 3AW

RAW’S INFAMOUS STRIKER is available 25 years after its inception for road, track or in the popular and versatile dual purpose set-up. Continual development of handling characteristics by Raw and a fully adjustable set-up based on a spaceframe chassis make for ‘probably the most successful kit car ever’ according to press. Entry level cars and kits use a 2-litre Ford Zetec engine which produces 151bhp as standard, by retaining the original inlet and exhaust manifolds combined with Raw’s engine map this set-up leaves plenty of room for upgrading to higher power output, levels of up to 300bhp plus have been achieved. Toyota 4AGE and bike engines have both also proved very popular and reliable powerhouses for the Striker. Raw’s own supercharger packs are also available for a big power hike for 2-litre Zetec and 4AGE 20v. All Raws use a variation on the same chassis; standard or lowered race option both guarantee the handling that has won many championships. Buy a Striker and get out there and win something!



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Spaceframe chassis. BODYWORK: ‘Classic’ (screened) or ‘Aero’ options. Fibreglass bodywork, aluminium side panels, lightweight body for racing. Three-piece rear bodywork with wing size selection. DONOR CAR: New from Raw or Ford sourced donor parts. ENGINE OPTIONS: Primarily Toyota and Ford. Bike options too. SUSPENSION: Front – Independent inboard set-up. Rear – Independent double wishbones, Raw’s own hub carriers, coil-over dampers, Ford hubs. Fully adjustable. Original live axle option is still available. STEERING: Bespoke steering column with Ford quick rack. BRAKES: Standard Ford items through to a selection of upgrades including high specification four-pot alloy calipers. KIT PRICE: Starter rolling chassis packs are under £4500. Car in a box from £12,995. Factory cars from £17,450. BUDGET BUILD COST: Depends on your parts-sourcing ability!

068 RPS RP251:CKC Guide 2009



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RPS RP251 07900 431244

RPS, Unit 4 North East Suffolk Business Centre, 52 Pinbush Road, Lowestoft, Suffolk NR33 7NQ

RPS MAY BE a relatively new company to the industry, but the team behind it – husband and wife Garry and Julie Hutton – know the scene well having been involved in the GCS Hawke that sold so well throughout the 1990s. The RPS RP251 is an MGB based body conversion that takes its inspiration from a number of classic 1960s race cars. There are echoes of Ginetta here, hints of Ferrari there... and it all adds up to a cohesive whole. Since the changes to the MGB base are cosmetic only, there is no requirement for an IVA test. The front end (wings and front panel as one piece) bolt on, and the GRP bonnet is new too. The new rear end either bolts or bonds on, and the optional hard-top completes the look. The firm also offers stylised roll-over bars and a new dashboard. The conversion kit is also available for the MGB GT. As well as selling complete conversion kits, RPS is also happy to supply parts of its kits to MGB owners looking to implement more subtle upgrades. The dashboard and hardtop have proved particularly popular.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: MGB’s standard steel monocoque. BODYWORK: GRP replacement front panel and wings (onepiece), rear bumper (bond-on or bolt-on), bonnet. Optional GRP hard-top. Steel MGB doors, rear wings and bootlid. ENGINE OPTIONS: Any MGB engine (four-cylinder or V8). SUSPENSION: Front – Coil-over dampers. Rear – Coil-over dampers, anti-tramp bars. STEERING: MGB rack and pinion. BRAKES: Discs all-round. KIT PRICE: Main kit £1295. Hard top £325. Dashboard £159. Centre console £39.50. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £1295 plus donor car and paint.

069 RTM La Bala:CKC Guide 2009



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RTM La Bala

RTM La Bala 07841 535715

R-Tec Motorsports, 1 Hamilton Park, Maidenhead, Berkshire SL6 4TB

RTM’S LA BALA, otherwise known as the LB2, is a mid-engined two-seater that’s based on the mechanical components of a Toyota MR2 Mk2. It’s a car that holds a unique position in the UK kit car market. It is as at home on the track as it is on the road, and comes in a variety of specs; catering both for those who are build enthusiasts, to those who want a complete car. The Core kit, which is the essence of the car (comprising the body, chassis and suspension) is fully manufactured in the UK and starts from £7500 plus VAT. RTM can supply used, refurbished or new parts for the LB2, specially sourced for the car for those looking for a stress-free build. For speed junkies looking to build a track or fast road car, the R kit is a seriousspec, all-new parts package which is complete down to the last nut and bolt, and is turbocharged with a brand new 200bhp 1.6-litre Vauxhall engine tuneable to 350bhp. With its distinctive style, and the variety in the build approach, coupled with options such as a full windscreen, optional doors and even a hard-top, the LB2 is seriously fun and also makes sure you get the most out of it all year round.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Multi-tubular frame in large diameter round tube. BODYWORK: All GRP bodywork, full windscreen, optional doors. DONOR CAR: Toyota MR2 Mk2. ENGINE OPTIONS: Any FWD engine. R-tec recommends Toyota MR2, Vauxhall 1.6-litre turbo, plus RTM is happy to look at other options including motorcycle engines. SUSPENSION: Front – Double wishbones, outboard coil-over dampers with Toyota MR2 uprights and hub carriers. Rear – Double wishbones, outboard coil-over dampers with Toyota MR2 uprights and hub carriers. STEERING: Toyota MR2 rack and pinion. BRAKES: Toyota MR2 discs and calipers. KIT PRICE: Core kit (body, chassis, suspension) £7500 including VAT. R kit (everything needed to build a car including all options bar hard-top) £25,250. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £12,000.

070 RTR Rocket:CKC Guide 2009



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RTR Rocket

RTR Rocket 0115 978 0677

Road Track Race, 42 Mount Street, New Basford, Nottingham NG7 7HX

THE RTR ROCKET is based on the mechanicals of a Ford Focus, using its engine (often in 1.8-litre or 2-litre forms, although RTR will modify the chassis to suit a wide variety of engines should you choose), gearbox, suspension components and more. The Focus was chosen because it’s easy to source and affordable. In fact, the Rocket itself is very affordable – you could get one on the road for as little as £7000, which looks like terrific value. RTR also offers a range of turnkey options, from the M250 at £15,995 to the M350, with 350bhp per tonne. Thanks to its open chassis, the Rocket has a distinctive driving experience. Being able to see the ground rush by and the suspension and steering working makes you feel really in touch with what’s going on. You’re surprisingly protected from the elements and there’s enough space behind the seats to stow a weekend’s worth of camping gear. Striking, unusual looks, low build costs and entertaining dynamics make for a highly appealing car. RTR also offers the Sonic7 (below right). Sister to the Rocket, it borrows its geometry and Focus basis.


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Exposed round-tube chassis. BODYWORK: GRP wings, engine cover, bonnet panel. Supplied in coloured gelcoat. DONOR CAR: Ford Focus. ENGINE OPTIONS: Ford Zetec 1.8/2-litre, Ford Duratec 2-litre, Ford EcoBoost 1-litre, Toyota 1ZZ/2ZZ 1.8-litre, Honda Type R 2-litre/2.2-litre. SUSPENSION: Front and rear – Double wishbones with coil-over dampers. STEERING: Rack and pinion. BRAKES: Discs all-round. KIT PRICE: Standard kit £3995 plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £7000. Turnkey prices: M250 £15,995. M350 £23,500. Turnkey from £11,995 using donor car provided by customer.


071 RTR TR1ke, Triabusa and Mevabusa:CKC Guide 2009



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RTR TR1ke, Triabusa & Mevabusa

RTR TR1ke, Triabusa & Mevabusa 0115 978 0677

Road Track Race, 42 Mount Street, New Basford, Nottingham NG7 7HX

AFTER THE ROCKET, the TR1ke is still the biggest seller for Road Track Race. It uses the Yamaha R1 engine from a 1998 to 2006 donor, offering 147bhp to 175bhp – and now there’s the option of using the 185bhp-plus engine (up to 2007) from the Suzuki Hayabusa in the Triabusa. The Mevabusa is the four-wheeled equivalent, and can use donor bikes up to 2013. The Mevabusa is a direct response to customer demand. Many potential builders were asking for a Suzuki Hayabusa powered version of the Rocket – so the company went one stage further and developed a bespoke car around the powerplant. It has an exoskeletal chassis to keep weight to a minimum – the kerb weight is a super-fly 400kg – and has been tuned for exceptional on track ability. With a kit price of £4995 plus VAT, RTR estimates that home built versions will be completed for around £9000 to £10,000, with the Suzuki Hayabusa parts contributing around £2500 to that total. Suspension is double wishbone all round, with bespoke uprights at the rear and Rally Design items up front (all of which is included in the kit).



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Exoskeletal spaceframe chassis. BODYWORK: GRP front panel and cycle wings. DONOR CAR: No donor car, uses Suzuki Hayabusa engine and transmission. ENGINE OPTIONS: Suzuki Hayabusa engine. SUSPENSION: Front – Double wishbones, coil-over dampers, Rally Design uprights. Rear – Double wishbones, coil-over dampers, bespoke uprights. STEERING: Rack and pinion. BRAKES: Discs all round. KIT PRICE: TR1ke: £3995; Triabusa: £4495; Mevabusa: £4995. Atomic: £4695. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £9000 to £10,000.

072 Southern GT:CKC Guide 2009



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Southern GT

Southern GT 01489 788345 or 01489 789143

Southern GT, Unit 9 Bury Farm, Curbridge, Botley, Southampton SO30 2HB

SOUTHERN GT SPENT around two and a half years perfecting its GT40 replica before releasing it to the market. The result is a thoroughly developed offering that has won praise from those who have driven it – including two professional racing drivers. Because the project was a sideline business, there was no rush to get it to market. As a result, the company spent many hours moving suspension brackets by as little as a sixteenth of an inch until everything was just right. The engine has been lowered in the chassis to improve the centre of gravity, it has a built in roll cage (the rear section is standard and the front section is optional) and the cockpit has been widened. This allows for wider seats, and it can also accommodate tall people of up to 6ft 4in. Under the skin, a spaceframe chassis hosts all aluminium suspension. It accepts a Ford V8 and most kinds of transaxle. Southern GT can supply everything needed to build a car, and can also fit its own rear end to other makes of GT40 replica. The company has full in-house sheet metal and fabrication facilities, and can supply and fit exhaust systems.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Jig built spaceframe in mild steel incorporating rear rollcage as standard with a wider, longer cockpit so will fit drivers up to 6ft 4in tall and all-new geometry design. BODYWORK: Full GRP body, Mk1 GT40. Carbon parts optional. DONOR CAR: Not applicable, all parts specially manufactured. ENGINE OPTIONS: Ford 289, 302 or 351. SUSPENSION: Front – Top and bottom wishbones with rod ends or poly bushed, coil-over shocks and aluminium uprights. Rear – Bottom wishbones and top link arms with rod ends or poly bushed, original type aluminium upright and coil-over shocks. STEERING: Rack and pinion with CNC billet steering arms. BRAKES: Discs all-round, bias pedal box and choice of calipers including AP, Wilwood or HiSpec. KIT PRICE: Minus engine £35,624 plus VAT. Includes air con, 15in knock-on wheels, leather seats, Renault gearbox, aluminium uprights and uprated brakes.

073 Suffolk C-Type Jaguar:CKC Guide 2009



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Suffolk C-Type Jaguar

Suffolk C-Type Jaguar 07967 339424

Roger Williams at Suffolk Jaguar, PO Box 100, Woodbridge, Suffolk IP12 9BA

SUFFOLK JAGUAR HAS been manufacturing its exquisite Jaguar SS100 replica for 20 years, and has now added a re-creation of the glorious Jaguar C-Type to the range. Suffolk is now in production with its new car, which will only be produced in limited numbers. Performance matches the original car’s despite the fact that it costs only a fraction of the price. A build manual is supplied, as is full workshop back-up. As you would expect from Suffolk, the C-Type is dimensionally exactly the same as the original 1951 Jaguar racer. The shape is formed from GRP with alloy sections (the bonnet louvres for instance). Even the chassis is visually the same as the original’s, although it is bracketed for updated torsion bar suspension. Elsewhere, driver comfort has been slightly improved when compared to the 1951 car, but let us not forget that this is a no-nonsense, no-prisoner car. Works visits and demonstrations of the Suffolk C-Type Jaguar are available by appointment. Purchasing options range from component form, through partial builds to fully factory built cars.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Spaceframe made principally from 16SGW tubes. Visually exact to the original 1951 Jaguar design with bracketing for torsion bar suspension. BODYWORK: External bodywork in vacuum formed GRP with alloy louvres – all exact to the Malcolm Sayer Jaguar C-Type design. Alloy firewall, floorpan and internal cockpit panelling. DONOR CAR: Jaguar Mk2 or XJ6 plus other Jaguar components. All available from Suffolk Jaguar. Live rear axle. ENGINE OPTIONS: Jaguar XJ or XK 3.4, 3.8 or 4.2 with 2in SU or triple Weber DCOEs. SUSPENSION: Front – Jaguar wishbones, uprights and torsion bar. Rear – Trailing arms with Panhard rod. STEERING: Rack and pinion. BRAKES: Discs all-round. Servo optional. KIT PRICE: From £25,000. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £36,000.

074 Suffolk SS100 Jaguar:CKC Guide 2009



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Suffolk SS100 Jaguar

Suffolk SS100 Jaguar 07967 339424

Roger Williams at Suffolk Jaguar, PO Box 100, Woodbridge, Suffolk IP12 9BA

A TRUE CLASSIC in its own right, the Suffolk SS100 Jaguar has been in production for 20 years. Constant improvements have been incorporated over time. The comprehensive Owner Build Manual is updated each year and is available online free of charge. Packages are also exported to Europe and the US. Following a visit to the workshops and a test drive, a build programme is then tailored to the customer’s timescale. A typical first delivery would include the chassis and all parts to build the ‘four corners’. This would be followed by installation of the Jaguar XJ6 engine and gearbox. The bodywork can be prepared and painted in the customer’s own choice of colour before delivery. Final assembly is a logical sequence. Completed cars are used extensively by their owners on classic and historic car rallies all over the world. The car is fully accredited for membership by all of the Jaguar car clubs worldwide, giving owners access to a wide range of social activities. The finished car is a totally accurate no-compromise visual re-creation of the original Jaguar SS100 designed by Sir William Lyons in 1936.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: 150 by 75 by 3mm box section spaceframe fitted with all pick-up points for suspension, brakes, engine, gearbox, steering, safety belts and bodywork. BODYWORK: Supplied as a ready-to-fit one-piece structure of internal steel framing and grey gelcoat GRP mouldings. DONOR CAR: Jaguar XJ6 Series 1, 2 or 3 (1969 to 1986 models are all suitable and available from Suffolk Sportscars). ENGINE OPTIONS: All XK and XJ engines – typically a Series 3 4.2-litre with two SU carburettors. SUSPENSION: Fully adjustable coil-overs, two front, four rear, using Jaguar donor front and rear wishbones and hubs. STEERING: Jaguar rack and pinion. BRAKES: Servo assisted Lockheed 4-pot front calipers with vented discs inboard, rear disc brake calipers with handbrake. KIT PRICE: Depends on individual specification. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £38,000.

075 Tiger Avon GTA:CKC Guide 2009



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Tiger Avon/GTA

Tiger Avon/GTA 01945 466200

Tiger Racing, Unit 10 Anglia Way, Wisbech, Cambridgeshire PE13 2TY

THE TIGER AVON, and its sister model the GTA, are the focus of this page, but Tiger Racing actually has a wide range of models after 25 year producing kit cars. It’s the Avon (pictured above) that introduces most builders to the Tiger marque. It has a spaceframe chassis, GRP body in coloured gelcoat and double wishbone suspension all-round. Most four-cylinder engines can be fitted (the Ford Zetec being an obvious choice) and motorcycle engines can be accommodated too (but not recommended by Tiger – ask them!). Available in modular packages or as a full new kit, it’s possible to build a budget car for as little as £5000. The complete new package with nothing else to purchase is priced at £10,995 plus VAT and comes complete with everything needed to complete the car – including a brand new Ford Zetec engine with Weber Alpha fuel injection. In 2011, the GTA joined the Tiger range. Based on the Avon’s proven platform, it has a new, classically styled full body. The GTA body can be retro-fitted to existing Avons with the addition of outriggers on the chassis.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Tubular spaceframe in 1in box section steel £695 plus VAT. BODYWORK: All GRP supplied in gelcoat finish. DONOR CAR: Ford Sierra. ENGINE OPTIONS: Ford Pinto or Zetec. Other options can be fitted, including motorcycle engines. SUSPENSION: Front – Double wishbones with coil-over dampers. Rear – Double wishbones with coil-over dampers. STEERING: Rack and pinion. BRAKES: Discs all-round. KIT PRICE: Chassis £695 plus VAT. Full kit £10,995 plus VAT. This comprehensive kit includes everything to build the car, including a brand new Zetec engine with Weber Alpha injection. Absolutely nothing else to purchase! BUDGET BUILD COST: From £5000 (Avon).

076 Toniq CB:CKC Guide 2009



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Toniq CB

Toniq CB 07818 057643

Toniq Ltd, Wheal Rose Business Park, Roche Road, Cornwall PL26 8PP

IN A SECTOR of the market that’s dominated by traditonal styling, the Toniq CB brings welcome originality. The company has built on the original Toniq concept with the latest CB range. The stunning looks create drama and interest on road and track alike. However the Toniq CB is much more than a pretty face – it’s backed up by advanced engineering, top quality components and a dedicated team. Attention to detail is evident throughout, from the beautiful CAD designed round tube chassis with laser cut and pre-drilled panelling to the fully terminated bespoke wiring loom. The CB range has been painstakingly developed to be a pleasure to build. Comprehensive kits centre on Ford Duratec engines, and the latest offering of VVT. These comprehensive packages contain everything required to build a Toniq CB, down to the last nut and bolt. Alternatively, you can build it around a Mazda MX-5 Mk3 drivetrain. At the other extreme you can buy the car in fully built form. Turnkey cars range in power outputs from 180bhp to 300bhp from either Duratec or VVT powerplants.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: State of the art CAD designed round tube spaceframe. Pre-drilled and bracketed for all suspension, drivetrain and body mounting points. BODYWORK: All GRP supplied in black or grey gelcoat finish. DONOR CAR: N/A. ENGINE OPTIONS: Ford Duratec and VVT. 5 and 6-speed gearboxes. LSD standard on models above 200bhp. SUSPENSION: Front – Double wishbones, coil-overs. Rear – Double wishbones, horizontal inboard coil-overs. STEERING: Rack and pinion. BRAKES: Alloy 4-pot front calipers, vented discs. Alloy single pot rear calipers, solid discs with mechanical handbrake. KIT PRICE: Modular packages from £5525 plus VAT. Car in a box kits from £27,600 plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: Home build from £18,000. Factory built – enquire to discuss your personal requirements.

077 Tornado TSC GT40:CKC Guide 2009



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Tornado TSC GT40

Tornado TSC GT40 01562 820372

Tornado Sports Cars, Unit 25, Meadowmill Ind Est, Dixon Street, Kidderminster, Worcs DY10 1HH

INTRODUCED IN 1989, the TSC GT40 has been in uninterrupted production for longer than any other Ford GT40 replica. With around 900 kits supplied, Tornado Sports Cars is the world’s leading maker of the GT40 replica, the company’s success being largely due to its reputation for stability and quality. Tornado’s standards of engineering are second to none. A triangulated spaceframe is the standard option for most, but for those looking for the ultimate, Tornado offers two different monocoque derivatives, the first being an aluminium monocoque, and the second a full carbonfibre monocoque. The TSC GT40’s shape is visually indistinguishable from that of the Le Mans-winning GT40. It offers the ultimate in performance with Ford’s venerable small-block V8 and race style suspension developed and fully proven over the years. The correct repro parts are available from Tornado – wheels, fuel tanks, exhaust system, glass, lights, seats, instruments and even the V8 engines. The Ford Mustang Coyote engine has recently been introduced as an option. Tornado is a one-stop shop for the GT40 enthusiast.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Multi-tubular spaceframe. Optional aluminium monocoque and carbonfibre monocoque chassis available. BODYWORK: GRP mouldings. Optional carbonfibre. DONOR CAR: None. Parts come from a variety of sources. ENGINE OPTIONS: 289/302/351cu in Ford small block V8. Rover V8 also fits. 2011 Ford Mustang Coyote all-ali V8. SUSPENSION: Front – Cast aluminium front uprights, fabricated double wishbones. Rear – Reversed A-arm with top links and radius arms. Coil-over dampers all round. STEERING: Rack and pinion. BRAKES: Ventilated front discs with 4 or 6-pot aluminium calipers. Ventilated rear discs with 4-pot aluminium calipers. KIT PRICE: Starter kit – £6995 plus VAT. Deluxe kit – With every single item required to build a new car £38,250 plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £25,000.

078 Toylander:CKC Guide 2009



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Toylander 01767 319080

Real Life Toys (Toylander), 196 London Road, Biggleswade, Bedfordshire SG18 8EH

REAL LIFE TOYS Toylander has been established 28 years and, in that time, its range of Toylander electric ride-on cars has become the must-have children’s motor. The model line-up includes Toylander 1 and 2 (Series 1 and Series 2A Land Rovers), Mayfair (veteran car), GPS (a budget jeep style model), Toylander 3 ARMY (Willys jeep and the most detailed Toylander model yet), DBR and MFR (tractors) and three trailers. More are being added in 2015, including a caravan, Unimog and lorry. Each model is built from a set of technical drawings and uses unitary construction. Most builders tend to construct the body from either moisture resistant MDF or Birch ply. There is no separate chassis. Power comes from mostly two 180-watt electric motors, Toylander having used the same British supplier since 1987. Vehicles are equipped with a progressive throttle. Even the indicators flash. It’s possible to use the motor from a mobility scooter, although it becomes necessary to alter the gearing, mount the motor and re-engineer the throttle. A Toylander’s a great way to get children and parents or grandparents working together on a productive project.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Unitary body and chassis unit made from moisture resistant MDF or birch ply. BODYWORK: See chassis. DONOR CAR: N/A. ENGINE OPTIONS: 180-watt electric motor (single or twin) or mobility scooter motor can be used with modified gearing. SUSPENSION: None but swing axle option gives traction control. STEERING: Basic bolt and bar can be upgraded to rose joint. BRAKES: On rear wheels. TECHNICAL DRAWINGS PRICE: From £35. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £500.

079 Turismo Avalanche:CKC Guide 2009



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Turismo Avalanche GT

Turismo Avalanche GT 07745 231717

Turismo, Nottingham. Nottinghamshire

THE TURISMO AVALANCHE is a brand new kit to the market in 2014 and, while it takes inspiration from the Gemballa Mirage GT, it’s an original design in its own right. A body conversion based on the Toyota MR2 Roadster, it’s both easy to assemble (all of the panels simply bolt on to the base car) and exempt from the IVA test. While Turismo is a new name to the kit car industry, it is well established in the world of production car modification. All that experience is put to good use in the Avalanche GT; as well as offering high quality mouldings, there’s a sharpness to the design that’s utterly professional. The kit comprises a highly comprehensive body panel kit, and there are further developments for the future including a bespoke hard-top and back window arrangement (the hard-top shown in the photos is a standard Toyota item but with additional roof vent). Being a MR2 Roadster basis means that the car is also a convertible, and there are plenty of options for tuning the 1.8-litre engine for more power.


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Standard Toyota MR2 Mk3 platform. BODYWORK: Comprehensive bolt-on GRP body kit. DONOR CAR: Toyota MR2 Mk3. ENGINE OPTIONS: Toyota MR2 Mk3 1.8-litre. SUSPENSION: Standard Toyota MR2 Mk3 platform. STEERING: Standard Toyota MR2 Mk3 platform. BRAKES: Standard Toyota MR2 Mk3 platform. KIT PRICE: £7995. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £15,000.


080 Veranti VXF, Vivace and Coupe:CKC Guide 2009



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Veranti VXF, Vivace & Coupé

Veranti VXF, Vivace & Coupé 01905 782007

Veranti Motor Company, Unit 7 Ball Mill Top Business Park, Hallow, Worcestershire WR2 6LS

VERANTI MOTOR COMPANY was established 10 years ago and its recent new management has quickly added new cars to the range. Alongside the original Toyota MR2 based Coupé are now the VXF and Vivace. The new models are both based on the affordable platform of a Gen 7 Toyota Celica and have desirable replica styling. Being body coversions, all models are exempt from the IVA test and are easy to build at home. Veranti had planned to offer its cars in part-built form only, but customer demand has led to the decision to offer all models in kit form for home assembly. During the 2014 show season, the company received plenty of positive feedback for the quality of the kits and the show cars produced. Veranti plans to add more models to its range in 2015; the next model will return to the original Veranti’s concept in being an original design rather than a replica. Watch this space...


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Coupé: Toyota MR2 Mk2 platform. VXF and Vivace: Toyota Celica Gen 7 platform. BODYWORK: GRP body panels. DONOR CAR: Coupé: Toyota MR2 Mk2. VXF and Vivace: Toyota Celica Gen 7. ENGINE OPTIONS: Coupé: 2-litre four-cylinder. VXF and Vivace: 1.8-litre four-cylinder. SUSPENSION: Coupé: Standard Toyota MR2 Mk2. VXF and Vivace: Standard Toyota Celica Gen 7. STEERING: Coupé: Standard Toyota MR2 Mk2. VXF and Vivace: Standard Toyota Celica Gen 7. BRAKES: All models: Discs all-round. KIT PRICE: From £2000 to £4000. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £8500.


081 Vortex GTT:CKC Guide 2009



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Vortex GTT

Vortex GTT 01926 857200

Vortex Automotive, 23 Woodmill Meadow, Kenilworth, Warwickshire CV8 2XP

THIS NEW VERSION supercedes the GT3 and uses the 2-litre direct injection Ecoboost Ford engine to give 280bhp with 60kg less weight. New features for 2014 were a stiffer chassis, a chargecooler for the turbo unit, alloy caliper option for the first time, quicker speed variable power steering and new alloy wheel choices. Several new visual upgrades now available in 2015. Unchanged are the stainless steel hinges and exhaust, gas struts for the engine cover, servo brakes, aluminium dampers, double bulkhead for noise suppression, LM25 heat treated uprights and ventilated discs. There is generous cockpit space and it is also possible to stow a full-size spare wheel and luggage under the bonnet. Air conditioning is an option. Vortex now stocks donor parts to make the build easier for customers and the GTT has just been given build approval by the New Zealand authorities. A GT-EV can also be ordered using 100 lithium ion batteries, the first car having successfully completed the Brighton to London future car event.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Multi-tubular chassis. BODYWORK: Single-piece fibreglass main tub with bonded-in floor, separate rear bumper, bonnet, engine cover and doors, supplied in primer gel. DONOR CAR: Mostly Ford Mondeo. ENGINE OPTIONS: 2-litre Ford Ecoboost (GTT) or 3-litre Modeo V6 (GT3). SUSPENSION: Front – Double wishbones, cast alloy uprights, coil-over dampers. Rear – De Dion, Watts linkage, Ford hubs. STEERING: Rack and pinion with speed-variable electronic power assistance. Two turns lock-to-lock. BRAKES: Discs front and rear, servo assisted. KIT PRICE: Comprehensive kit – £13,888. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £22,000 plus donor.

082 Vortex V2:CKC Guide 2009



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Vortex V2

Vortex V2 01926 857200

Vortex Automotive, 23 Woodmill Meadow, Kenilworth, Warwickshire CV8 2XP

A NEW ALTERNATIVE to a Lotus Seven type product, for road or track days. Intense work during 2013 has gone into making the 280bhp Vortex V2 an incredibly satisfying driving experience, which has seen the prototype evolve after many miles on road and track. Headline changes for 2014 included a substantial downsizing, major suspension and steering refinements, a 30kg weight saving, new bodywork tooling with side and tail panels, central armrest and LED tail lighting. Distinctive features abound, with individual cockpit openings, passenger tonneau cover, curved chassis tubes for generous cockpit space, central fuel tank, underside cooling duct, high nose with integrated aerofoils and storage. A stainless steel exhaust is standard, as is an alloy radiator. Alloy calipers and rear spoiler are optional. The cockpit shape is tall enough to deflect air over the driver’s head, giving enjoyable open-air motoring, making a helmet not essential wear. It is IVA compliant, has a choice of Ford engines including Duratec, GDI and the sensational 280bhp Ecoboost, with 5 or 6-speed gearbox options.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Steel curved and straight multi-tube spaceframe. BODYWORK: Five main pieces supplied in gelcoat colours. DONOR CAR: Ford discs, driveline, steering rack, column and engine. ENGINE OPTIONS: 2-litre Duratec or 2-litre direct injection turbo Ecoboost. SUSPENSION: Wishbone front, De Dion rear with Watts pivot. STEERING: Manual high ratio rack. BRAKES: Discs all round. KIT PRICE: Kit £9990 VAT paid. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £12,500.

083 Westfield:CKC Guide 2009



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Westfield Sport

Westfield Sport 01384 400077

Westfield Sportscars, Unit 1 Gibbons Industrial Estate. Dudley Road, Kingswinford DY6 8XF

WESTFIELD SPORTS CARS is easily one of the best known kit car marques having gained recognition beyond kit car circles. Westfield can supply anything from a basic chassis/body package, a complete kit requiring a Mazda MX-5 donor to complete, through to a complete kit where everything is supplied with the exception of fuel and water. The complete kit is available with a host of new Ford engines, with options ranging from a 135bhp/155bhp Sigma, 150bhp/175bhp Zetec to the range-topping 200bhp 2-litre Duratec. While Westfield offers more hardcore cars for track day use, the Sport is aimed at dual road and circuit use. The car is available either as a comprehensive kit (from £15,699), or you can spread the cost with modular packages. Alternatively, complete, turnkey cars begin at £19,300. The latest development is the Honda S2000 powered Mega S2000. Complete kits for this 240bhp monster are available less engine and gearbox from £13,999, and the option of a 350bhp supercharger kit is new for 2014. This model offers outstanding performance for your pound.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Steel spaceframe. BODYWORK: All GRP, choice of self-coloured gelcoat. DONOR CAR: All new parts supplied in kit, although donor kits are available. ENGINE OPTIONS: Complete kits – Ford Sigma 1.6-litre, Ford 2-litre Zetec and Duratec. Donor car engine options – Honda S2000, Suzuki Hayabusa, Vauxhall 16v, Ford Crossflow, Ford Pinto, Mazda MX-5 1600 and 1800. SUSPENSION: Fully adjustable double wishbones with coil-over dampers all-round. STEERING: Rack and pinion. BRAKES: Discs all-round. KIT PRICE: Donor kits from £8500, complete kits start from £15,699. Modular kits also available. BUDGET BUILD COST: £8000 using donor parts plus IVA test and registration.

084 Xanthos 23 Continuation:CKC Guide 2009



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Xanthos Continuation 23

Xanthos Continuation 23 0151 486 7744

Kelvin Jones Motorsport, Liverpool

IN 1962, COLIN Chapman shocked the racing world with the introduction of the Lotus 23. Initially it was prevented from participating at Le Mans because it would have undoubtedly blown apart the French competition. Colin Chapman never took a car to Le Mans again. The 23 was first raced by Jim Clark at the Nürburgring 1000km where he was lapping up to 30 seconds faster than the bigger engined competition. In 1994, the 23 proved its continued value to the Lotus Cars stable when a Xanthos 23 was borrowed by the Lotus Elise development team ‘for inspiration’. Continuing on from the superb work of Henry Tombs in recreating the Lotus Type 23 and making the Xanthos 23 a true reproduction, Kelvin Jones Motorsport offers spares for the genuine article and a complete race, track or road car second to none. For track and road use, the car is available with changes to the braking systems, electrical systems and the engine, but these changes are bolt-on, leaving the pedigree of the car intact and allowing a full upgrade to race spec at a later date without replacement of the major items.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Xanthos. BODYWORK: Xanthos. DONOR CAR: None. ENGINE OPTIONS: Lotus Twin Cam, Ford Zetec. SUSPENSION: Front – Triumph. Rear – Lotus. STEERING: Triumph. BRAKES: Front – Girling. Rear – Girling. KIT PRICE: Basic kit starts at £7500. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £25,000.

085 XCS 427:CKC Guide 2009



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XCS 427 “To view this as ‘just’ another Cobra replica is to miss the point. This is an utterly serious performance car in its own right.” Adam Wilkins, Complete Kit Car

XCS 427 07591 668116

Walker Partnership, Essex

XCS DESIGNS IS a new company run by Peter Walker and Gary Sanders, both very well known and respected figures in the industry and extremely experienced engineers and designers. Their new XCS 427 model is a flagship sports car and uses Peter Walker’s patented ‘Camber Compensation & Anti-Roll’ (CC&AR) suspension system at both front and rear. The CC&AR system increases grip (and predictability) by keeping the tyres in flat and even contact with the tarmac at all times – a feat that can never be attained by conventional suspension. An animation showing how CC&AR achieves this is on the XCS website. The XCS 427’s chassis is a full height, full width, round-tube spaceframe designed for lightness and strength with crumple zones front and rear. XCS’s first demonstrator has a very high specification, powered by a 630bhp supercharged Chevrolet LS3, sited well back in the chassis for optimum weight distribution. The new XCS 427 is clearly a highly sophisticated product!


SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Spaceframe chassis made from round-tube CDS2 steel. Crumple zones front and rear. BODYWORK: All aluminium internal panelling, GRP bodywork. DONOR CAR: No donor car. ENGINE OPTIONS: A wide range of V8s, including Ford and Chevrolet big blocks. SUSPENSION: Front and rear – Patented ‘Camber Compensation & Anti-Roll’ system with purpose-designed billet aluminium uprights for no-compromise CC&AR geometry, fully-adjustable inert-gas HT alloy coil-overs. STEERING: Bespoke Quaife steering rack, adjustable electronic power assistance. BRAKES: 12.8in ventilated discs (front and rear), HiSpec Monster 4 calipers (front) and HiSpec Billet 4 calipers (rear). KIT PRICE: Body/chassis/suspension kit £9365. BUDGET BUILD COST: From £40,000.


086 Xmoor Riot:CKC Guide 2009



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Xmoor Riot

Xmoor Riot 01643 709330

Xmoor Cars, Unit 2 Minehead Enterprise Centre, Mart Road, Minehead, Somerset TA24 5AE

XMOOR CARS BOUGHT the Riot project from Sylva Autokits in April 2013. Sylva was founded in 1981 by renowned kit car designer Jeremy Phillips and for many of those years has been scoring countless sprint, race and hillclimb victories and many championship wins. The Riot also won Kit Car of the Year just after its release in 2005. Xmoor Cars benefits greatly from this heritage, so now with 18 months of intensive development the Riot Classic is easier to build and is back at the forefront of kit car design, quality and performance. Xmoor is one of the first kit manufacturer’s to offer the Ford 1.6 Ecoboost engine and 6-speed gearbox with engine and transmission installations taking just a couple of hours. The Riot Classic’s compact mid-engine layout easily accommodates drivers over 6ft tall and there is even room for luggage under the bonnet. With a growing number of options and upgrades becoming available, you should have no problem building a quality car that meets a tight budget or the toughest demands of competition.



SPECIFICATION CHASSIS: Jeremy Phillips designed multi-tubular spaceframe. BODYWORK: Fibreglass with self-coloured gelcoat. Carbon fibre also available. DONOR CAR: Ford Fiesta (ST), Yamaha R1 and Suzuki Hayabusa. ENGINE OPTIONS: Ford Zetec SE (Sigma) all variants. Ford Ecoboost 1.0 and 1.6. Yamaha R1 and Suzuki Hayabusa. SUSPENSION: Double unequal length wishbones all round. Front is cantilevered with inboard springs and shock absorbers. STEERING: 2.4 turn rack and bespoke collapsible column. BRAKES: Discs all round. Choice of 4-pot and 2-pot calipers front and rear. KIT PRICE: Comprehensive starter kit £4595 plus VAT. BUDGET BUILD COST: Approximately £9500.




Page 10

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088-092 Insurance feature:Technical 2pp



Page 88


Beginner’s Guide To...


Think kit car insurance will be expensive? Think again, it’s one of the great surprises that come with owning a kit car. Here’s our guide to getting the right cover for what you need.


ead for the website and within the car insurance section you will not find a Chesil Speedster, AK 427 or MEV Exocet within the list of possible options... not quite so ‘simples’! However, getting a competitive quote for your kit car is indeed simple and there are a number of companies you can contact to achieve the best quote for you. And it gets better... Specialist insurers for vehicles like ours understand our usage and understand that the vehicle we want to cover is our pride and joy. And because we’re unlikely to be doing a huge annual mileage and because it’s our pride and joy, they understand that we tend

to look after our cars and, subsequently, the risk to them isn’t huge. And that means premiums are often encouragingly affordable. But like any form of insurance, it’s important you do your homework, provide correct information and understand exactly what you are covered for, and what you are not covered for. Here’s our guide to getting the best quote for your needs...


It perhaps goes without saying that you are required by law to have insurance for your car if you want to drive it on the road, but there are additional covers to the kit builder that may be worth considering.

Above: You may be able to get cover for the kit while it’s in transit from the factory to your home.

Goods-in-transit cover – If your kit is being delivered by your manufacturer, then it

Below: Insurance is there for when things go wrong, not when they go right!

should be covered by them while in transit within their commercial goods-in-transit policy (but may be worth checking!). It doesn’t appear that the same cover is easy to purchase as an individual, but an alternative may be to take out build-up cover, from the moment of collection... check with the insurer that this would cover the parts while in transit to your garage. Build-Up Cover – So you’ve collected the comprehensive kit, stripped and cleaned the donor parts, bought wheels and tyres and it’s all neatly stacked in the garage and remains there in varying degrees of completion for perhaps the next two years. You wouldn’t leave £10,000 cash sat on the kitchen table for fear that it might get stolen, so why would you leave it in your garage without at least some form of insurance cover? Will household insurance cover it? A number of companies



088-092 Insurance feature:Technical 2pp



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Above: You can insure the kit while you build it, based on the value of the components.

offer build-up cover based on the value of the components in your garage. The cover is usually for a minimum term of 12 months and A-Plan’s Henry Francis adds that the parts must all be in the same place, which must be locked and secure (i.e. if the chassis is under a tarpaulin in the garden, it’s not covered!). Francis added that it’s important to identify the parts and their value, so evidence on receipts is vital. Track Day Cover – More and more of us are exploiting our kit car’s fantastic driving capability within the safe confines of a race circuit or airfield. But once you are off the public highway and using your car in such a way, you can say goodbye to your conventional road risks policy. While you do not have to have insurance to drive a car on a track, policies are available. Not all companies offer track day cover, and historically you needed to look to a dedicated track day insurance specialist. But such is the popularity of track days, that more regular kit car insurers are offering cover. For instance, at Adrian Flux you’ll need to have your car insured for road risks with the company, but it can then bolt on an additional track day policy for the day(s) that you need it. Interestingly, different tracks may incur different premiums, depending on the requirements of the insurer, and in all cases you’ll find that mechanical failure is not covered (for instance, if the engine fails while driving up the main



Above: Laid-up cover will offer protection for your car while in your garage for a long period.

Underwriting Exchange. As a bolt-on policy to your standard road risks policy, you may find that a claim will have to be registered, at which point it has the potential to impact not only the renewal premium on your kit car, but also your regular daily driver!

straight) but if you are involved in an accident with another car, or hit crash barriers etc, then you are covered. Another feature of track day cover is the relatively high excess you’ll have to accept, which is either set at a flat figure of perhaps £1000 or £1500, or is set at 10 per cent of the insured value. So if you have a £10,000 kit car, you’ll have to pay the first £1000 of any claim. Dedicated track day insurance specialists such as Competition Car Insurance do not need you to have a more conventional road risks policy with them. One word of caution with track day policies. Check with your broker as to whether any claims would have to be registered on the Claims and

Laid-Up Cover – Many of us tax our cars for six months and then put the car on SORN for the winter. Alternatively, a car may come off the road for an extended period for a rebuild etc. Once your road tax has expired you must put your car on SORN. Similarly, if you have tax remaining but take your car off the road and cancel your

road risks policy, you must SORN it. If you have outstanding cover remaining on your standard road risks insurance policy, this will usually still cover your car for fire and theft while it is in your garage, but once this has expired you might want to consider laid-up cover. There is no legal requirement for you to insure a car that is unused in the garage and lacking valid road tax, but you may still want to consider insuring it... Laid-up cover does exactly what it says... it insures your car while it is laid up. A basic policy will typically cover against theft and fire, with the premium based on the value of the car.

Below: Track day cover will come with a high excess and won’t cover for mechanical failure.


088-092 Insurance feature:Technical 2pp



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Garage copy

Above: If you would rather repair a car yourself after an accident, Parts Only cover is possible.

You can usually enhance this with accidental damage cover, so that if a ladder falls on the car and scratches the paint, you’d be covered to repair it. Laid-up cover is usually for a 12-month period and you are unlikely to be able to claim back any ‘un-used’ cover, should you put the car back into regular use before the 12-month period is up. Road cover – Of course, it’s a conventional road risks cover that any kit car driver will be most commonly considering. And the type of cover options reflect those of a more conventional policy... Third


Above: Limiting your annual mileage will reduce your premium.

party, third party fire and theft, and comprehensive cover. We’ll assume that as these are the types of cover you can get for your mainstream car, you understand the different levels of cover they offer.

builder who would rather rebuild or repair his car himself, rather than use a garage, Parts Only cover will only pay out for the value of the parts, making no allowance for labour costs. As such, the savings can be as much as 35 per cent. For some, this will be perfect, but Francis also pointed out that when premiums for kit cars are typically quite low anyway, saving perhaps no more than £100 while significantly reducing the pay out an insurer will make, certainly won’t suit everyone.


Parts Only cover – As an alternative to the conventional forms of cover mentioned just earlier, A-Plan’s Henry Francis also highlighted Parts Only cover as a significant way of reducing insurance premiums. Aimed at the capable kit car

No Claims Discount – Sadly, the no claims discount that becomes so vital to help reduce premiums for your regular car, is rarely of any value for your kit car. But there are other ways to reduce your kit car premium. Limit your annual mileage – This is the big one for kit car owners. You can take advantage of the fact that most of us cover a relatively modest mileage in our kit car each year, and so can consider a limited mileage policy similar to that

Below: Easiest way to reduce your premium is by joining the owners’ club. 15 per cent discount is typical.


088-092 Insurance feature:Technical 2pp



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Above: Lock-up garage no more of a risk than one attached to your house. But if it’s located more than five miles away, the premium is based on the postcode of the garage, not your house.

offered to classic car owners. By limiting your mileage you can reduce your annual premium, and such policies are usually available from a typical ceiling of 7500 miles per year, with incremental discounts available down to just 1000 miles per year. Increase your excess – The excess is the amount you’ll have to pay on any claim, before your insurer will pick up the rest. Most insurers will set a fixed excess with any policy, usually linked to the value of the car insured. Some insurers may allow you to suggest a voluntary excess that is over that figure and you pay a reduced premium as a consequence, but this would appear to be the exception and not the rule.


Above: Parts cover won’t include anything not located in a locked building such as your garage.

you shop around to ensure you get just the right cover, and at the right price.

be based on the garage’s postcode, not that of your home.

Compare like with like – It’s obvious really, but make sure that the policies you compare actually offer the same level of cover and have the same features. Things to consider may include any excess requirements (some policies will include a minimum excess), windscreen cover (again, some may limit what they pay for), the limited mileage criteria may be different from one company to the next, some companies (such as Norton Insurance) may offer salvage retention where you can use parts from the

Join a kit car club – This is one of the easiest ways to instantly reduce your premium. Most marque specific clubs can negotiate up to a 15 per cent discount on premiums for their members, so if you’ve not joined already, now is the time to do it. Some insurance companies accept Complete Kit Car Subs Club membership, so if you subscribe to us, tell them!


While there may not be an equivalent to for kit car owners, it’s still vital that

written-off car (so long as it’s not a Category A write-off) in the rebuild of a new car. Other features to consider may include the type and cost of European cover if you are considering a continental blast, while some insurers will include breakdown cover (if they do, make sure it includes recovery to your home, not just to the nearest garage). Some of these features that differentiate different insurers may mean that a slightly more expensive policy is actually the one you want. So look at the detail carefully and ask questions. Be accurate and honest – It is

Below: Shop around for the right policy and be sure to compare like-with-like. And don’t forget, the cheapest quote may not be the best!

Where you keep your car – With conventional insurance, the location of where the car is kept overnight can be important... whether parked on the road or in a garage. But we can assume that most kit car owners tuck their kit car up in a garage when not in use (yes, we know there are exceptions to that!). The type of garage, whether attached to your home or part of an en-bloc garage area around the corner somewhere, does not tend to load the premium (although you should tell your insurer if it is remote from the property). Far more important is its geographical location. If it’s in a different postcode, or more than perhaps five miles from your home, then the cover will



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USEFUL CONTACTS A-Plan T: 01635 874646. W: Adrian Flux T: 0800 081 8989. W: Central Bespoke T: 0800 954 0037. W: Competition Car Insurance T: 0844 8921966. W: Footman James T: 0843 357 1907. W: Frank Pickles T: 01943 850999. W: Glynwood Insurance Services T: 0844 581 8877. W: Graham Sykes T: 01395 255100. W: MSM T: 01279 870535. W: Heritage T: 0845 330 0660. W: Osborne and Sons T: 020 8388 6000. W: Peter James T: 0121 506 6040. W: Performance Direct T: 0844 573 3589. W: REIS T: 0115 965 1020. W:

Above: Obtaining an agreed value can bring peace of mind with a really special car.

vital that the information you give your insurer is correct. Not only does this ensure that you are correctly covered, it also ensures that any third party involved in an accident is also correctly covered if they need to claim against you. The worst case scenarios don’t bear thinking about, but that’s exactly why it’s your responsibility to get it right, not just for you, but for anyone else involved too. It’s not uncommon for a kit car owner to either replace an engine with another one, or upgrade to a more powerful engine and in such instances you must inform your insurer, or run the risk of your policy being void.

Sureterm Direct T: 0800 1313 780. W:

Choose your broker carefully If researching this article has shown anything, it is that the profile of you as the owner of your kit car is just as important as the details of the car. Great emphasis is placed on your level of experience, driving history etc. And this is one reason it’s very difficult for drivers under 21 to find kit car insurance (it’s not impossible, but it’s certainly not easy). It’s now that you want to get a feel for the insurance broker you are dealing with. Are they asking lots of questions. Do they understand the difference between different kit cars and are they interested in your car and you? Why should this be important? Firstly, the better profile they have of you, the

Agreed Value – Some insurers will offer to cover your car with an agreed replacement value. So if you have a kit car that’s worth £10,000 and you want that value safe-guarded, then you can do so. It will usually require at least six photographs to be sent to the broker, and may also require further documentation to be provided to help substantiate your assertion of its value. But be aware that insurers are increasingly wary of such agreements, as the core remit of any cover is to restore a car to its condition immediately before any accident, not to the condition it was in when originally built.

Below: If you want to enjoy your car responsibly, then obtaining the right insurance is vital.



better chance they have of providing an accurate and potentially more affordable quote (so long as your driving history is good, obviously!). Secondly, the service you receive now may give an indication of the type of service you may receive when you really need them (when you need to make a claim). All of which brings us to a conclusion that ought to be obvious... that it’s not necessarily the cheapest quote that’s the best. Who will be there for you when you need them the most – that might be a wiser priority than saving a few quid.


Insuring a kit car is usually one of the pleasant surprises when it comes to cost. Rarely will it be a huge barrier to using your car as you would like. And there are also a wide variety of different covers available to insure your car from a bare chassis to its first foray onto the track and beyond. But take your responsibility in this area seriously. Not only is it a legal requirement that the information you give is accurate, but the repercussions for not doing so are very serious, not just for you, but for anyone else that may be involved in an accident with you, either in your car or in another car. Get it right and, if and when the worst happens, you’ll know you’ve done everything you can to deal with the outcome responsibly. CKC




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Specialist in

Classic, Vintage, Race & Rally Vehicle Electrics Bespoke wiring looms – for Road, Track day or Competition vehicles. Third-party ECU conversions installed. Modern Engine and Fuel Injection conversions. Third-party electronic systems. Stalled projects and part builds undertaken. E: M: 07513 536156 Fully mobile – all work carried out at your garage or workshop

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Siltech Racing is a family run business that specialise in Wide Track Front Suspension, Anti roll bars and Light weight aluminium billet uprights, tested to 10,000 kg! Siltech Racing can also offer chassis repair on our jig, full set up and exciting new ranges for the future.


Contact Dennis and Andy Silman T: 01362 820456 E:

Orderline: +44 (0) 1827 67714 Order Online:


Kepler, Off Mariner, Lichfield Road Industrial Estate, Tamworth, Staffordshire B79 7XE Offer valid until December 2015


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T: +44 (0)1449 677726 | F: +44 (0)1449 770539 | E: Unit 10, TOMO Business Park, Tomo Road, Stowmarket, Suffolk, IP14 5EP, England

COMPLETE ENGINES & ENGINE KIT PACKAGES Every engine is hand built and fully run-in and power tested on our Dynamometer. Whether it be for circuit racing or for road use.

ZETEC ENGINE 1.6, 1.8 & 2.0 Litre 188-275 BHP DURATEC ENGINE 2.0-2.5 Litre 200-355 BHP Ford Zetec & Duratec Specialists • Design and Manufacture Engine Consultants • Dynamometer testing 1000 BHP capacity utilising • the latest in computerised testing facilities

Suppliers of standard, custom and competition driveshafts, propshafts and associated driveline components.


CUSTOM PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS Our Motorsport Division specialises in the design, manufacture and supply of Driveline products for all areas of Motorsport. Our customer base ranges from private individual enthusiasts to kit-car manufacturers and from rally teams to OEM race car manufacturers.

New to range products now include Power Steering Pumps, Power/Manual Steering Racks & Brake Calipers. • Competition Driveshafts

• Competition CV Joints

• Competition Drive-Flanges

• Custom Driveshafts

• Custom Propshafts

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• CV Joint Boot-Kits

• ABS Rings

• Centre Bearings

• Universal Joints

• Friction Welding

• CNC Machining

• CAD Design

• Dynamic Balancing

• Product Testing

• CV Joint Re-Grinding

• Steering Boxes

• Re-Engineering

• Steering Racks

• Steering Pumps

• Brake Calipers

CPS/Drivelink Automotive & MotorSport 190 Kingsway South • Gateshead • Tyne and Wear • NE11 0SH T: +44(0) 191 4821690 E:

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DIRECTORY It can be a real challenge to find the right part for a particular job. Our in-depth directory should hopefully point you in the right direction.


uy a comprehensive kit package from the likes of Caterham or Westfield and it should include every last nut and bolt you’ll need before driving your car out of the garage. But that’s not how most kits are supplied. The majority are offered in a number of different modules, such as a chassis pack, bodywork pack, lighting pack

etc. You buy what you need or can afford at the time, and then get the rest as and when you want. But even then, the chances are you’ll be looking beyond the kit manufacturer for many of the items needed for the build. What about the donor car bits, the cooling, carpets, wheels and tyres etc? In some instances you may need additional nuts and bolts, while at the other end of the scale you may want to get the car painted... but where do you find the companies offering these services, and why does it matter? As you would expect, at Complete Kit Car we see a lot of privately built kit cars as we scout about the kit car shows looking for possible cars to

Above: Shows are a great place to see lots of different components in one place.

feature... and it’s often easy to see the cars built by a kit car beginner! We’re not just talking about poor finishing, but instead poor selection of components. In particular, this may be the use of a variety of non stainless fixings that are

Above: Finding and using the right fittings and fixings will make a huge difference to your finished kit car. Below: There are often loads of different options for items such as lights and reflectors. Shop around to understand your choices.

going rusty after the first covering of road spray, or perhaps the use of domestic carpeting that will fall apart and go rotten within a year. Selecting the right components will improve the finish of your car, it may improve the way your car handles and drives and it will almost certainly be cheaper than using your nearest auto factors! So, what should you look out for and where will you find them? Nuts and bolts – At the very core of every kit car project are the fixings that hold it together, and they can vary enormously in quality and type. First and foremost, they must be to a strength suitable for the job, so a bolt holding a suspension wishbone to the chassis is unlikely to be made of stainless steel and should have markings which clearly identify its tensile strength. But other fixings for holding the dash in place, or locating smaller items within the engine bay can be in stainless. As already mentioned, this will stop them going rusty



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UK KIT CAR GUIDE and, despite the increased cost of stainless over mild steel or galvanised fixings, the longterm result is well worthwhile. Your nearest auto factors will invariably have small quantities of the wrong type of fixing. However, there are a number of companies who advertise in the magazines and who regularly attend all the kit car shows. Go along with a shopping list.

Electrical items – You may modify your donor’s loom, use a kit manufacturer’s loom, use an aftermarket loom, or make your own from scratch, but poorly executed electrics are another novice weakness. And it will come back to bite you, with inherent unreliability. Joining one bit of wire to another is usually where the problems start. So we’d recommend you use crimped connections, but with bare connectors with an over cover, rather than the blue integral connector and cover you typically find. The crimp tools cost a fraction more, but you’ll save money buying the connectors in bulk. Where from? Various specialist companies advertise in this Guide, and they’ll all be able to help you over the phone. Alternatively, get to one of the shows.

Fixings – We’re talking about the things that hold wiring in place and stop brake and fuel lines flopping about. Not only will the way in which items are fastened to your car be inspected when your car goes through IVA, but it’s amazing how scruffy a car can look if the wrong methods have been employed. Your local auto factors will offer some of what you need, but once again in small quantities and at inflated cost. Take time to have a look at what other people have used and then have a look at any one of the general parts suppliers listed in the directory here. There are a myriad of different ways to locate wiring or fasten your brake lines, so choose carefully, but make the effort.

Above: Sometimes the choices can be bewildering.

Domestic carpet is not designed for exterior use, and it will soon deteriorate in an open-topped kit car. Several companies offer carpet and vinyl and all will be happy to send you small samples in the post. Get lots of samples, because they can vary enormously.

Mechanical components – We can’t hope to cover this large aspect of any kit car build in a single page, but the directory should point you in the right direction when it comes to donor components, cooling, brakes, engine tuning and much more. And as with all the sections mentioned here, for more advice it’s always worth joining an owners’ club or an online forum to find out what other people with the same car have done.

Paint – If your car needs painting, then it’s worth using a bodyshop with extensive experience of painting fibreglass panels. This is also one area where it’s very true to say that you get what you pay for. After the Build – The work doesn’t stop after the build is complete! Once your car is up and running, you may want to get the engine tuned on a rolling road, or perhaps have the suspension geometry adjusted to make sure the car is handling to its best ability. Both can make a huge difference to

Trim – If you don’t want to buy the trim set offered by your manufacturer (or they may not offer such a thing), then you not only need to source the carpet/vinyl, but also the underlay, foam padding and the adhesive needed to fix it.

Below: Lots of specialist companies go to shows.



your enjoyment of the finished car, but we’re always surprised by the number of people we meet who have not had their cars professionally set-up. This guide has a number of suitable companies listed, so phone around and get a feel for who you’d like to use. We can’t hope to cover all aspects of a typical kit car build here. However, the main point to remember is that when you need something which isn’t supplied by the kit manufacturer there will, always, be a quality solution beyond what you’ll find in your nearest auto factor. And getting the little details right is the difference between a well finished car and one that looks rushed. It’s also invariably the difference between a reliable kit car and one that isn’t. Use the Directory to source your parts. You should find just about everything you’ll need from these companies.

Below: It’s part of the fun of the build personalising your car and making it unique.


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lease mention the UK Kit Car Guide 2015 when speaking to companies listed in the directory.

BRAKE PARTS – DISCS/CALIPERS/PADS AP Racing T: 024 7663 9595. W: Caparo Via Kit Spares T: 01623 860990. W: EBC Brakes W: Ferodo W: HiSpec Motorsport T: 01322 286850. W: Mintex W: MNR T: 01423 780196. W: Nitrac T: 01625 267074. W: Pagid W: Rally Design (Wilwood) T: 01227 792792. W:

12 Volt Planet W: Autocar Electrical T: 0207 4034334. W: Autosparks T: 01423 506133 Classic & Vintage Wiring T: 07513 536156. E: Connectomotive T: 01584 759379. W: IEM Services T: 01209 214086. W: Simtek T: 01706 854857 W: SVC T: 01827 67714. W: Vehicle Wiring Products T: 0115 9305454. W: World of Wiring T: 01782 208050. W:

CAMERAS – IN-CAR Dogcam T: 01208 269159 W: CARBURETTOR/INJECTION SERVICES/ENGINE MANAGEMENT DanST Engineering T: 07921 168507. W: Eurocarb T: 0118 984 2811. W: Omex Technology T: 01242 26065. W: Race Technology T: 01773 537620. W: Webcon T: 01932 787100. W:

ENGINE SPECIALISTS/ENGINE PARTS AB Performance T: 01449 736633. W: Avonbar T: 01279 873428. W: Burton Power T: 0208 518 9189. W: Cambridge Motorsports Parts T: 01462 684300. W: Dartford Rebore T: 01322 220220. W: Daytuner T: 01423 523323. W: Dee Ltd T: 01926 426225. W: Dunnell Engines T: 01449 677726. W: Holeshot Racing T: 028 3882 0026. W: ITG T: 024 7630 5386. W: Jenvey T: 01746 768810. W: Kent Performance Cams T: 01303 248666. W: LS Power T: 01949 843299. W: Partsworld Performance W: Performance Unlimited T: 01904 489332. W:


COOLING SUPPLIERS (RADIATORS/HOSES/CLIPS) Aaron Radiators T: 020 3327 1010. W: Forge Motorsport T: 01452 380999. W: JCS Hi-Torque T: 01787 376212. W: Leyland Hose and Silicone T: 01772 642478. W: Pacet T: 01628 526754. W: Pro Alloy Motorsport T:0845 226 7561. W: Radicool Fabrications T: 01280 701350. W: Radtec T: 01543 502525. W: Samco Sport T: 01443 238464. W: Silicon Hoses T: 0845 838 5364. W: Viper Performance T: 0845 0953 423. W: ELECTRICAL/WIRING SUPPLIES 12 Volt Planet T: 01491 838761. W: Auto Electric Supplies T: 01584 819552.


QEP (Cat Cams)





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MECH-MATE Motorpits have been ‘proven in action’ and recommended by both demanding enthusiasts and professionals for the past 20 years. Safe, dry and surprisingly simple to install. Models from 2-4m long, seated or stand-in versions. Prices from £995 + VAT. (ex works)

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PARTS DIRECTORY Hosetechnik T: 0845 838 5364. W:

Piper Cams T: 01303 245300. W: QED T: 01509 412317. W: QEP (Cat Cams) T: 01444 243720. W: Real Steel T: 01895 440505. W: TTS Performance T: 01327858212. W: V8XS T: 01462 711850. W: Yorkshire Engine Supplies T: 07960 011585. W:

GEARBOX SPECIALISTS 3J Driveline T: 01926 650426. W: A-Frame Engineering T: 01282 690184. W: BGH Geartech T: 01580 714114. W: CG Motorsport T: 01132 426359. W: Elite Racing Transmissions T: 07976 487861. W: Quaife T: 01732 741144. W: RWD Motorsport T: 01282 863286. W: Tran-X T: 01732 741144. W:

ENGINE MANAGEMENT Autocar Electrical Equipment (Lumenition) T: 020 7403 4334. W: H&H Ignitions T: 01384 261500. W: KMS T: +31 (0) 402854064. W: Lumenition T: 0207 403 4334. W: Omex Technology T: 01242 260656. W: Trigger Wheels E: W:

GEARBOX SPECIALISTS (REVERSE) Elite Racing Transmissions T: 07976 487861. W: Lynx AE T: 01908 510000. W: MNR reverse box T: 01423 780196. W: Quaife T: 01732 741144. W: Westgarage Engineering T: 01383 850480. W:

EXHAUST PARTS/FABRICATION A-Frame Engineering T: 01282 690184. W: Custom Chrome T: 024 7638 7808. W: JP Exhausts T: 01625 619916. W: Powerspeed T: 01233 662 225. W: Simpson Race Exhausts T: 01753 532222. W:



Pilkington AGR

Pilkington AGR T: 01527 517373. W: INSTRUMENT/GAUGE SUPPLIERS Acewell T: 0191 640 8663. W: Digital Speedos T: 0121 745 9555. W: ETB Instruments T: 01702 601055. W: Race Technology T: 01773 537620. W:

East Coast Fibreglass

AT Fibreglass Specialists T: 01484 402010. W: CFS T: 01209 821028 W: Composites4u T: 01282 770666. W: Cristex T: 01282 770666. W: Dynamic Mouldings T: 01454 222 899. W: East Coast Fibreglass T: 0191 497 5134. W: GW-GRP Designs T: 01507 524426. W: Westgate Composites T: 07733 282947. W:

ETB Instruments Digidash

FUEL/OIL/BRAKE FLUID COMPONENTS BGC T: 01945 466690. W: Earls T: 01803 869850. W: Goodridge W:



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UK KIT CAR GUIDE Racetech. W: Revotec T: 01491 824424. W: Smiths (via Europa) T: 01283 815609. W: SPA T: 01827 300150. W: Stack W: Trailtech T: 01896 753111. W:


835805. W: Cables and Controls – Cable-tec T: 01623 440398. W: Car Covers – Hamilton Classic T: 0118 973 7300. W: Carbon Mods T: 01782 324000. W: Flocking – Suffolk Flocking T: 07976 223371. W: Garage inspection pits – Mech Mate T: 01923 265500. W: Heater – T7 Design T: 07595 975777. W: Intercoms – Starcom T: 01480 399499 . W: Plasma cutting – PlazCutz W: Powdercoating – Electrostatic Magic Steel stockholder – Aerocom T: 02476 645551. W: Thread repair kits – Uni-Thread T: 01803 867832. Trailer manufacturers – Aluminium Trailer Company T: 01844 353539. W: Vinyl Wrapping – Exeter Signs T: 01392 279391. W:


NUTS, BOLTS & FIXINGS LBF T: 01263 713498. E: JCS Hi-Torque (hose clips) T: 01787 888031. W:

Arden Automotive

Arden Automotive T: 01235 813161. W: Automotive Solutions and Racing T: 01773 719287. W: BAR Performance T: 01904 700913. W: Birch Brothers T: 01274 834921. W: Thunder Road Cars T: 020 8502 4090. W: Irntam Kitz T: 07951 567573. W: SA Fabrication T: 01455 610398. W: Southways Automotive T: 01329 220755. W: Sussex Kit Cars T: 01435 812706. E:


LIGHTING Auto Mirage

Auto Mirage T: 01253 734743. W: Brooklands Motor Company T: 01932 828545. W: IDL UK T: 01424 854900. W: Lee’s Bodyshop T: 01332 331764. W: Lustre Coatings T: 01953 713667. W: Paint Perfect T: 01522 568247. W: Pinewood Body Repairs T: 01304 203020. Precision Paint T: 01823 666289 W: Southside Accident And Repair Centre T: 020 8317 1111. W: SMS Autospray T: 01406 371504. W: Specialised Paintwork T: 0118 930 6206. W: The Colourworx T: 01637 873218. W:

Kit Spares

Kit Spares T: 01623 860990. W: SVC T: 08456 581251. W:

PARTS SUPPLIERS (GENERAL BROCHURE) Burton Power T: 020 8518 9189. W: Cambridge Motorsport Parts T: 01462 684300. W: Car Builder Solutions T: 01580 891309. W:

MISCELLANEOUS Aluminium fabrication – Bogg Brothers T: 01944 738234. W: Aluminium fabrication – Alloy Racing Fabrications T: 01623



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PARTS DIRECTORY Demon Tweeks T: 0845 330 4751. W: Europa Spares T: 01283 815609. W: Furore T: 07905 897407. W: Kit Parts Direct T: 07895 864500. W: Kit Spares T: 01623 860990. W: Machine Mart T: 0844 8801250. W: Merlin Motorsport T: 01249 782101. W: Moss Europe T: 020 8867 2020. W: Plays Kool Motorsport T: 01388 762288. W: Rally Design T: 01227 792792. W: Richbrook W:

SECOND-HAND KIT CAR SALES Absolutely Kit Cars T: 01702 231319. W: Hallmark Cars T: 020 8500 1991. W: Sussex Kit Cars T: 01435 812706. E: Total Headturners T: 07711 630348. W: Toybox Specialist Cars T: 07976 701902. W:

Dampertech (ATR)

PROPSHAFT/DRIVESHAFT SERVICES 3J Driveline T: 01926 650426. W: Autoprop T: 01342 322623. W: Bailey Morris 01480 216250. W: CPS Drivelink T: 0191 4821690. W: Dunning & Fairbank T: 0113 248 8788. W: FG Motorsport T: 01932 851999. W: Reco-Prop T: 01582 412110. W: RUST PREVENTION GEP T: 07809 686788. E: Electrostatic Magic W: KBS Rustseal T: 01803 527961. W:

SUSPENSION COMPONENTS Dampertech T: 01709 703992. W: Protech Shocks T: 01225 705553. W: Siltech Racing T: 01362 820456. W: Spax T: 01869 244771. W: Superflex T: 01749 678152. W:

ROLLING ROAD/SUSPENSION TUNING Atspeed T: 01268 773377. W: Daytuner Performance T: 01423 523323. W: Dyno Solutions T: 01474 872888. W: John Clarkson Autos T: 01257 263879. E: MB Motorsport T: 01364 73596. W: Northampton Motorsport T: 01604 766624. W: Track Developments T: 01666 840482. W:

TOOL SUPPLIERS Chicago Brand T: 01274 660332. W: Draper T: 023 8049 4333. W: Milli-Grip T: 01273 494844. W: Memfast T: 01386 556868. W: Perm-Grit Tools T: 0800 298 5121. W:


TRIM SERVICES Cartlidge Coach Trimming T: 0121 558 9135. W: Gabbat & Brown T: 01704 821105. W: M&M Classic Car Components T: 01775 762004. W: Martrim T: 0127 0767 771. W: Midbass (sound deadening materials W: Seals+Direct T: 0845 226 3345. W: Woolies T: 01778 347347. W:

Interiors Seating

WHEEL SUPPLIERS Compomotive T: 01902 311499. W: Force Racing T: 0113 252 5507. W: Hawk Cars T: 01892 750282. W: Image Wheels T: 0121 522 2442. W: John Brown Wheels W: Midland Wheels T: 01926 817444. W: Momo T: 01268 764411. W: Performance Wheels T: 01530 517920. W: Team Dynamics W: Wolfrace W:

Cobra Seats T: 01952 684020. W: Corbeau Seats T: 01424 854499. W: Intatrim T: 01952 608608. W: Interiors Seating T: 01623 400660. W: Tillett Racing Seats T: 01795 420312. W:






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THE SOUTH WEST’S PREMIER SPORTS CAR WORKSHOP Full rolling road facilities Home of Quantum Sportscars



Large Range of T9 5-Speed Close Ratio Heavy Duty Gear Kits with Long 1st and Short 5th Gears T: 01364 73596 W:


Complete Boxes and Parts Mail Order or Collection Telephone: 01580 714114

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Supply of one-off parts for Street Rod, Classic, Post Vintage and Kit Cars.

Check out BOTH our web sites New catalogue out shortly

MEMfast - YOUR supplier of captive fasteners and tools. Rivet Nuts in all materials, Rubber Nuts, Swaging Inserts, Hollow Wall Screw Anchors, Standard & Self Tapping Threaded Inserts & Plastic Rivets.

RNHT48/410 Rivet Nut Hand Tool

• New Durable Polypropylene Case •

Phone/Fax: 01775 762004 (card taken for phone orders) Mobile: 07745 348243

All your fibreglass supplies delivered direct to your door! Mail order fibreglass supplies • Polyester Epoxy resins & reinforcements, • tools and -ancillary’s project information & technical advice • Free Download a price list from our site •

tool to M10 rivet nuts in all • M4 • Unique,&patented materials compact • Robust - made in the U.K. to assemble and use • Easy Easy conversion to UNC/UNF Mandrels 12.9 • rivet nuts & metric rivet studs • socket headarecapstandard screws

Place order online or call us on: 0191 497 5134 West Walpole Street • South Shields • NE33 5BY E: • F: 0191 4565487

TEL: +44 (0)1386 556868 EMAIL:

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Northampton Motorsport FP July 2014:CKC FP



Page 1


OK, you’ve had your engine tuned but that power will do you no good at all unless you can get it down on the road. Our state-ofthe-art laser wheel alignment and corner weight scales ensure that your suspension performs as well as your engine does. For the handling and grip you need, whether for road or track, contact the Performance Tuning Specialists Corner weighting Geometry set up Suspension design and development Ohlins and Gaz dampers Rolling road tuning Life Racing, Omex and Webcon engine management Weber, DellOrto and SU carb agents

Unit 52, Rothersthorpe Crescent, Northampton, NN4 8JD

TEL: 01604 766624 • FAX: 01604 701126

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Beginner’s Guide To...


Individual Vehicle Approval is the test that most newly built kit cars must go through. Here’s our guide on what to expect.


lmost all kit cars in the UK will, before they’re allowed on the road, have to go through an Individual Vehicle Approval (IVA) test and then a registration procedure. Here we can concentrate on the test that, in 2009, replaced the previous examination for newly built kit cars, Single Vehicle Approval (SVA). IVA is run by the Vehicle and Operator Services Agency (VOSA) and is available in two different levels of test – Normal IVA and Basic IVA (BIVA). Kit cars will always fall into BIVA. When looking at any information about IVA, make sure that you are always referring to BIVA regulations and not Normal IVA, where the tests are quite different. Within BIVA there are then

different sub categories of test. Category A is for amateur built kit cars which typically means anyone building a car at home for their own use. Category C is for anyone in the business of building cars, and Category L is for a car built by a low volume manufacturer. Each will have a different set of criteria that must be met at the test, with Category A being the most flexible. It’s very important that you are able to demonstrate to VOSA that the vehicle meets the pre-requisits for undergoing a Category A test, and this is best achieved with original purchase receipts and photographic evidence of the car having been assembled in a home environment. BIVA can appear daunting and often confusing – not helped by the pub ‘expert’ with

Above: You can either drive your kit car or trailer it to the test.

stories of different testing stations following different rules and certain sections of the test being open to wide interpretation. While it certainly does appear that some testing stations are more rigorous in their testing methods, we would counter this argument, having heard from many kit car builders who’ve had a largely

Below: Because this DNA West Coast uses an unmodified Mercedes SL500 over which new panels are hung, it’s exempt from IVA.

painless experience and found the testers helpful and positive. Like SVA before it, BIVA is certainly not a huge hurdle to your kit car enjoyment, but it is something you need to consider as you build your kit car, not just at the end of the project. Build a kit car with BIVA in mind and the process should be a rewarding one. Here’s our ‘rough guide’ to what’s involved.


Before we get too excited about BIVA, it’s important to remember that not everyone building a kit car will have to go through the test. For those cars using the donor’s unmodified chassis as well as its suspension, you’ll find yourself bypassing BIVA. The reason these cars are exempt from the test is that BIVA is designed for cars which are not already registered. In the case of these simple panel conversions it is understood that the identity of the original car is retained and, therefore, it can’t go through a BIVA test. This would be relevant for the plethora of Ferrari replicas



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Above: BMW Z3 based Bertini GT25 is a panel kit and therefore exempt from IVA.

based on Toyota MR2s (so long as the main chassis structure isn’t chopped). However, the regulations regarding modified donor chassis are also outlined on the website within the guidelines for registering a radically altered vehicle. We quote: “You won’t be able to keep your vehicle’s original registration number if... it has a second-hand or altered chassis, monocoque bodyshell or frame.

Above: Three-wheelers, such as this Grinnall Scorpion, undergo an MSVA test, not IVA.

In these cases, you’ll have to get type approval [IVA] for your vehicle.” Three-wheelers continue to be tested under the old MSVA (Motorcycle SVA) test procedures. The test is less stringent than conventional IVA. Your manufacturer should be able to help you on this one.

(or even your nearest VOSA test site), you have to take the car to a specially set-up test centre. There are currently 18 testing stations scattered around the country (see Useful Contacts panel for details). The test looks at all manner of aspects relating to the car, from the correct E-marking on glass, to the efficiency of the braking system and accuracy of the speedo. Your kit


You can’t get a BIVA test down at your nearest MoT garage

Above: Chassis number and VIN plate are checked before the main test begins. Below: A special rig is used for tests in the cockpit for line of sight, seat belt locations etc.



manufacturer should be able to give you comprehensive advice as to how to prepare your car to ensure it passes the test. If you choose to fit items that are not recommended by the manufacturer, then you may expose your car to a potential point of failure. It’s not possible to cover all the various areas of the BIVA test here (we cover them briefly in the accompanying panel) and we’d recommend you download

Above: All switches must be clearly identified. Below: Fuel caps must either be tethered or lockable such that the key cannot be removed before the cap is relocated.


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Here’s a brief resumé of the various sections of the test, what the inspector will be looking for, and some tips and hints as to what you should be considering before you arrive at the test centre. Don’t forget to take some tools with you on the day and be prepared to hang around – the test can take a few hours. An IVA Inspection Manual will elaborate considerably on these brief notes.




Anti Theft

Original ignition switch/steering lock or similar permanently affixed immobilisation.

A battery cut-off switch will no longer do. The donor’s steering lock is ideal.


Fan assisted ventilation onto the windscreen.

Cars without a windscreen are exempt.


Wiper action must cover a sufficient area of screen to allow driver an ‘adequate’ view of the road. Wipers must return automatically to the rest position and operate at two different cycle speeds (outlined in the manual). Washers must work effectively, have a reservoir of at least one litre and the system must withstand a nozzle being blocked while in use without blowing off pipework.

Cars without a screen need not comply.


Seats must be firmly located. IVA requires the fitment of a headrest, either as part of the seat or as a separate pad.

Spreader plates/ washers through the floor may be needed. Headrests must be within a certain position in relation to the seat.

Seat belts

Anchorage points will be checked for their position and method of construction. Belts must display approved markings.

Your kit manufacturer should really have this covered!

Inertia reel belts must operate smoothly and retract correctly.

Not all belts are type approved for road use – check carefully.

Above 150mm from floor: No radius of less than 2.5mm on any item contactable with 165mm test sphere. Except within specified zones or where items project less than 3.2mm from surface – need only be ‘blunted’. Below 150mm from floor: Items contacted with a forward facing 100mm sphere must be ‘blunted’. The lower edge of the dash panel must have a radius of at least 19mm.

There is an exempt area on the dashboard behind the steering wheel.

Radio suppression

The ignition system must come with radio interference suppression equipment.

It doesn’t matter if you don’t have any radio, you must still comply.


Sidescreens cannot be detachable. Any glass must be made of safety glass and carry the correct markings.

If you have removable sidescreens, do not fit them for the test! Be careful with glass markings – they must be done in the correct way.


Lighting positions are carefully checked and must comply with the measurements in the IVA Inspection Manual. You must also have the correct warning lights (clearly identified) on the dash.

Headlight position is usually set by the manufacturer, but rear light and indicator positions can often be set by the builder – take care with positions and angles of visibility.


You need one interior mirror and one offside mirror.

Mirrors should have the correct approval markings, so be careful when buying them.

Interior fittings



Watch that everything is tidy underneath the dash. It may be necessary to put a cover under the dash to protect occupant’s knees from touching brackets etc under the dash. Make sure all switches and gauges comply with BIVA – ask the supplier.

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mirrors (cont.)

If the inside mirror would provide no rearward vision (because of an aluminium bulkhead etc) then a nearside mirror can be used instead. Field of rearward view will be checked.

The mirror must have a protective housing or edge. Watch out that some race wing mirrors may have edges that will not comply with exterior projections.


Must have correct approval markings. Bodywork must cover the tyre completely within a specificed zone.

American tyres may not have the correct markings.

Doors, latches, hinges

Latching of not just doors, but bonnet etc will be checked.

Door latching must have two positions – supplier should be able to advise.

Exterior projections

Sharp edges that can be touched by the tester’s 100mm diameter sphere must not have a radius of less that 2.5mm if they stand proud of the bodywork by more than 5mm. Cycle winged vehicles will be checked for projections from the front only. Area ‘inside’ the wishbones (where the coil-over is) is exempt. Items within the wheel ‘dish’ exempt from projections. But wheel spinners/wingnuts are specifically not allowed. Windscreen, headlamps and even windscreen wipers must have ‘blunted’ edges.

Exposed front suspension should have nuts etc covered with plastic caps which comply with BIVA.


Steering wheel surface cannot have sharp edges and wheel ‘spokes’ should not have holes etc.

Some steering wheel manufacturers can supply covers for the wheel ‘spokes’.

Design & construction

The steering wheel/column must have some shock absorbing ability (crumple zone etc).

Your kit manufacturer should have the design of his steering sorted for BIVA.

An overall assessment of the vehicle, including chassis, drivability etc.

Check that fuel lines and wiring are securely located. If you build the car competently, this shouldn’t present any big problems.

Braking performance is tested on rollers. Where there is bias bar control for the front/back brakes, this must be rendered inoperable, by way or lockwiring etc. Later adjustment may invalidate approval. See the Inspection Manual for full details.

Try to ‘bed-in’ your brake pads before the test.


Watch that flip-top filler caps have the correct radius edges. The cap must either lock, or be tethered to the surround. Watch side-mounted exhaust mounting brackets and edges.

Brake balance is tested. If you can, get this assessed prior to the test.


A maximum decibel reading of 99dbA measured at three-quarters of the engine’s max. power speed.


A visual smoke test as well as gas analysis relevant to the engine’s year of manufacture.

If you’ve bought an engine separately, make sure it has an engine number which can be used to clarify its year of manufacture.


The car will be run on the rollers and the accuracy of the speedo checked. It must not read under the true figure and must be accurate to within preset parameters.

Your speedo manufacturer can give guidance on correct calibration of the speedo. Alternatively, a satnav can give accurate speed to allow comparison with the speedo readings.


Axle weights and gross weight are assessed and compared to the stated weights you will have supplied on your application form.

Your manufacturer will have the correct weights for you.




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Above: Position and size of the aperture for the rear numberplate is checked.

(for free) both the IVA Inspection Manual (be careful to refer only to the section devoted to BIVA) direct from the Vehicle and Operator Services Agency (VOSA) website (address in the Useful Contacts panel). It’s not the lightest of bedtime reading, but it will tell you exactly what you need to do in order to comply with the test and there will be times when certain measurements may be needed to ensure items such as lights and dash switches etc are positioned in the correct places. You can also download from the same web page an IVA guide, which is a lighter tome with a more brief overview of the test. As you’re coming to the end of your kit car project, it’s worth contacting your nearest IVA testing station to find out what the lead time is from booking a test to actually having the test done. This varies from site to site, sometimes being just a couple of weeks but occasionally it may be more than

Above: Noise test is one of the last procedures during most tests.

(Construction and Use) Regulations and Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations. One advantage of driving the car to the station is that it will give you an opportunity to bedin the brakes prior to the test, but you could also find yourself stranded if everything goes wrong! Hiring a trailer is an obvious alternative. Once at the testing station you’ll need to be on hand throughout the test, which may take several hours. If the inspector finds some minor faults, he may give you an opportunity to correct them on site, so it’s very important that you go along with a good selection of basic tools. If there’s a more major problem with the car that cannot be rectified on site, then the tester will probably continue the test, issue a failure sheet and you’ll have to go away and fix the problems. There will be a retest fee (£90) but you won’t have to go through the whole test again – the inspector will just look at those items which previously failed. If all is well, then you’ll be issued with a Individual Approval Certificate (IAC). You’re now ready to continue with your registration.

two months. You don’t have to use your nearest testing station, so if one further away can fit you in at shorter notice, then you are free to book there. Having established where you would like your car tested you must fill in form IVA1 (downloadable from the VOSA website) and send it together with your payment for the test to VOSA’s offices in Swansea. Your information will then be passed on to your chosen testing site who will in turn give you a test date. When the day arrives you can drive your car to the testing station and back home again, regardless of whether you pass or fail (although in extreme cases, a PG9 can be issued – if a serious defect is found, this will prevent the car being driven away from the test centre). You must ensure your car is insured (using the chassis number for identification) and it is also your responsibility to ensure the car meets both Road Vehicles

Below: An IAC (Individual Approval Certificate) is what you want at the end.


BIVA test MSVA Retest if necessary MSVA retest Trailer hire necessary First registration fee 12 month road tax (dependent on engine) Insurance




So there you have it. It probably sounds worse than it is in reality but we can sum everything up as follows. Build your car according to the manufacturer’s guidelines and you should pass a BIVA test. If you fail, don’t panic. It’s usually pretty straightforward to put right any problems and, next time around, you’ll probably pass. Indeed, we’d have to say that more readers contact us about frustrations with registering their cars, than they do about IVA. Above all, don’t let bureaucracy get in the way of enjoying your newly completed kit car. CKC

Useful Contacts You will find most information is now pooled on the following website W: For IVA testing stations To download an IVA Inspection Manual, Guidance notes etc Further useful IVA information from the website

£450 £104 £90 £17 – £55 – –

Further info on MSVA For VOSA head office Berkeley House, Croydon Street, Bristol BS5 0DA. E: W:




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The Test Complete Kit Car has observed a number of cars going through IVA. Here’s what happened when CKC’s editor watched our last project car go through the test with its builder, Ash Gardiner.


uilding a kit car is an intensely personal crusade, so after months and possibly years of toil in the garage, it’s a pretty daunting prospect to present your completed car to be prodded, poked and minutely assessed by a complete stranger holding a clipboard and a position of authority. But that’s exactly what most kit car builders must put themselves through (unless their kit is exempt from the test) if they wish to register their car and drive it on the road. A £450 IVA inspection (plus potentially a £90 retest fee) awaits most of us as our hobby moves from a static garage bound pastime to an on-road leisure pursuit. So what’s the test actually

to check braking performance and speedo accuracy. At different stations, these will be installed in differing orders, so it’s quite possible that the order in which the test is done will vary from station to station. It’s not our intention to cover each and every aspect of the inspection in this feature, but rather highlight the main areas of the test. Of course, Ash Gardiner has been here before, with his previous scratch-built Haynes Roadster, but even he comments within minutes of the test beginning... “I’d forgotten how stressful all this can be!” In fairness, he’s not had the best start. We soon meet our examiner for the day, Andy Hooper, and by 8.30am are venturing into the IVA lane of

like? In this second article on IVA in the UK Guide To Kit Cars, we revisit the IVA inspection we went through with Complete Kit Car’s last project car, a MEV Exocet built by project car builder Ashley Gardiner... VOSA test centres are usually substantial buildings through which a bus, lorry or any other vehicle needing assessment enters at one end and exits at the other. The test area is divided up into a number of different lanes, one set aside specifically for IVA (and MSVA) use, with the others typically for larger commercial vehicles. As you move along the lane, various different aspects of the test are done, so at one point there will be a lift allowing the inspector to see underneath your car, while at another point are rollers

Above: CKC Car Builder, Ash Gardiner.

the test centre to begin the assessment. After Andy has checked that the chassis number and VIN plate on the Exocet match those of the IVA application form (and are in the correct position and of the correct size), the first formal part of the test is for emissions.

Below: Homemade battery clamp looks tidy.

Below: Gear lever surround fitted at the last minute.

Below: Savage switches from CBS mounted on new bracket.

Below: Tether created for the fuel cap.

Below: Modifying the tunnel ends caused no end of trouble.

Below: At the test station, Ash meeting inspector Andy Hooper.



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Above: Chassis number and VIN plate first to be inspected.

Being of 1994 origin, Ash’s Mazda MX-5 sourced 1.8 twincam should be subject to a basic non-cat test, but a V5 document on its own isn’t enough to demonstrate that the engine is the same as originally installed when it left the Mazda factory. With Ford engines, it’s easier to find documentary evidence matching engine numbers with the year of manufacture, but it’s not been possible to corroborate the engine number with any official paperwork, which means the test resorts to a basic post ’95 (and pre 2002) catalytic test (post 2002 it resorts to the latest emissions standards). It shouldn’t be a problem since the Exocet retains the catalytic converter (and indeed the complete exhaust system) from the donor. Having not driven the Exocet

Above: Andy gets underway with the test... emissions first.

Above: Emissions probe in the exhaust.

time is allocated for an inspection. The test examiner may allow the owner to make small corrections to items that can be quickly addressed (such as an additional tie-wrap to fasten a loose cable), but if the car is unable to continue with the test, he will issue an IVA 12 which will require the applicant to pay another full fee (£450) for a full test at a later date. This is quite different to an IVA failure, where a £90 retest fee is charged (unless the failure items are those which are retested for free – these being listed on the back of the IVA 30 failure sheet). The reasons for an IVA 12 being issued are various, but include not being at the test centre at the correct time, the vehicle being unable to be driven or the engine run to the extent necessary to complete the examination (potentially the

to the test centre (which you are able to do if you have insurance), the car needs running for a few moments to warm up... and here’s where it begins to go wrong. Within minutes the system has overheated, with the expansion bottle spewing coolant over the floor of the test centre as our inspector Andy watches! The problem is immediately identified as the fan failing to cut in at the required temperature. Ash can’t understand it and a quick check of cables reveals everything seemingly connected. Fuses are next, and we find one has blown. A quick scrabble around and it’s Andy who kindly finds a replacement, but when we run the car again the same thing happens! This is potentially catastrophic for the test. A set


problem for us), the vehicle being presented is in such a dirty or dangerous condition that it is unreasonable for the test to be carried out, the VIN number not permanently fixed to the vehicle or not easy to read, the fuel tank not full of fuel. There are other reasons beyond those I’ve listed, but the short answer is that you want to avoid an IVA 12 at all costs! Luckily for Ash, he’s brought some spare cable with him, and with a test meter is quickly able to rewire the fan to run permanently when the ignition is on. We’ve wasted only a minute or two and Andy is happy for us to continue, but it’s a close call and it’s not the start Ash had wanted. Two lessons learnt. Firstly, make sure you run the car up to a working temperature at home to check everything is working

Below: Exocet spills its coolant over the VOSA floor!

Below: Hasty rewire gets the fan running correctly.

Below: Exocet on the scales. Measured with and without driver.

Below: Andy checks the markings on the tyres.

Below: Using tool to assess wheelarch coverage of the tyres.

Below: Assesment under the car goes on for some time.



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IVA – THE TEST correctly (a schoolboy error methinks!). Secondly, there is a value in driving your car to the test site rather than trailering it. Not only does it get the engine up to working temperature before the test begins (and also highlights any problems in advance) but it will also help bed-in the brakes. That said, if there’s a serious failure item on the car found during the test, VOSA may issue a PG9 which stops you from driving the car away from the station. In the minutes we’ve been sorting this initial hiccup, Andy has been looking over the Exocet and appears pretty happy with not only the finish of Ash’s work, but also the design of the Exocet itself. While the bonnet is off, he comments on how neatly Ash has located the MX-5’s not insubstantial loom, and he’s impressed by the exterior of the Exocet and the simplicity of the interior, both of which bode well for the assessment of exterior and interior projections later in the test. With the cooling issue sorted, a second attempt at emissions initially appears positive but reveals a poor result. Andy suspects that the previous overheating may have thrown the engine’s emissions momentarily out of kilter. He decides to carry on with other

arches do easily. Now Andy moves underneath the Exocet, He’s checking that suspension bolts are of the appropriate size and strength (and with suitable nuts/washers/locking mechanisms). The fuel and brake lines are inspected, cable runs checked, any suspension boots and gaiters are free of damage and won’t become damaged when the suspension moves or the steering is turned. All the while, Ash is in the driver’s seat and Andy asks him to turn the steering and apply the handbrake so that he can see what’s happening from underneath the car. He also asks Ash to press the brake pedal hard, before examining all the brake unions around the car for any leaks. Other items being checked include having an earth strap on the fuel tank and the way the chassis and steering components will absorb a front impact (and whether the fuel tank may be punctured in the event of a rear impact). It’s a process that takes quite a while, and it’s clear that he’s paying particular attention to various items. Ash and I glance at each other... there may be trouble ahead! And so it proves. One of the bolts holding the driver’s seat in place appears loose. When Ash

elements of the test and come back to the emissions at the end, by which point the car will have been run and driven to the point where everything should be working correctly. It’s a common sense approach that both Ash and I appreciate. And we’re hoping that things from now on go rather more smoothly! Next up, the front and rear axle weights are measured, both with and without the tester on board. These will be used later on, when the braking performance and calculated weights are assessed, but for now we move onto the ramps... Andy checks the tyres to see that the speed rating, load, size and approval marking are all correct and suitable for the vehicle as outlined on the IVA application form. In other words, you can’t have a tyre with a speed rating which is lower than the quoted top speed given on the IVA application. It all makes sense. The location and position of the wheelarches are then assessed with what can only be described as a large protractor. Aligned with the centre of the wheel, the wheelarches must cover the wheel to at least a minimum number of degrees in front of and behind the vertical centre line... which the MEV

jumps out it’s tight, but with him in situ it’s clear that it’s not been nipped up correctly. The braided brake lines out to the rear calipers arch in such a way that they run close to a chassis rail and, when Andy pulls down on the chassis to replicate typical suspension movement, one in particular touches the rail. There’s also a loose cable in the tunnel... it wasn’t visible to Ash when he had the car on axle stands, but it is now, and needs cable tying up out of the way of the propshaft. Andy’s happy for Ash to do it on the spot while the car is up on the ramps. But the big stumbling block is with the optional lowered rear springs Ash has fitted. Now the car has been driven around the VOSA compound a couple of times the suspension has settled and the ride looks a tad low at the back... and closer inspection reveals that the Mazda top wishbones are now running too close to the chassis rails above... when Andy pulls down hard on the chassis, you can hear them make contact. This clearly isn’t something we can correct on the day so, along with the flexible brake hoses and other minor items, Ash is told the car will fail this IVA inspection, but Andy can continue with the test today and a £90 retest will be possible.

Below: Brake and fuel lines have been neatly installed.

Below: Seat location was loose.

Below: This flexy hose could contact the chassis under load.

Below: All nuts and bolts checked for correct use.

Below: Boots and gaiters all checked for wear.

Below: Top suspension arm very close to chassis rail above.



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Above: Andy checks the steering column for collapsability.

The Exocet is designed to run with either standard or lowered springs and MEV informs us that both versions have passed IVA, so perhaps our donor struts are aftermarket items with lower spring seats, or we have an anomaly with our springs. Either way, the simple solution is to fit a pair of standard MX-5 rear springs. Before moving the car off the ramps, Andy takes a few more measurements, which he’ll need later in the test when they are used in the braking test and to assess the calculated weights of the car. His inspection of the crash protection offered by not only the chassis but also the steering column results in resounding approval. He likes the chassis protection ahead of the cockpit and the steering rack (which retains all of the MX-5 features)

Above: All lights are carefully checked for their operation.

Above: Rear fog light must operate correctly.

appear to allow, we’re facing another failure item. What’s more, correcting this for the retest will probably mean a different set of headlamps. Finally in this section of the test, the position of all the light units on the car are checked against the regulations. The location of the front indicators, rear reflectors and rear indicators are all right on the limit in terms of their location in from the sides (a maximum of 400mm in from the side of the car is allowed) but the Exocet scrapes through. In terms of height and other dimensions there are no problems. Andy moves onto the examination of external and internal projections. He’s already commented that he thinks the Exocet will do well here and, despite its exposed chassis and separate wheelarches at each

gets a thumbs up. Good news. We move off the ramps and along to the headlamp aim testing machinery. First Andy asks Ash to jump in the driver’s seat and operate various lighting functions while he looks around the car. It’s a surprisingly comprehensive process, which gets even more involved at the back of the car, with the additional reverse and fog lights. In particular, the fog light must only work with front fog light, main or dipped beam. But it must not work when only using side lights. This is a common fail for kit cars, but Ash was on the case and the Exocet passes with flying colours. But all is not so rosy with the headlights. Andy isn’t happy with the beam pattern which doesn’t meet UK specifications. Without turning the lens itself, which the IVA Inspection Manual doesn’t


corner, so it proves. The exterior is almost blemish free, with the exception of the nuts locating the front headlights, which Ash says that he left the nut covers off deliberately so that he could adjust any alignment issues on the day. We believe you Ash, honest! With the covers in place, it would have been an effortless pass. And it’s the same when it comes to the interior, which looks extraordinarily simple and uncluttered. Andy’s a big fan of it, because it has made his life easy. There are no issues in here at all. And it’s the same when he assesses the dash warning lights, which are all encapsulated within the standard MX-5 dash binnacle. Simple. The advantages of using so much from the donor are becoming obvious. Next up is the assessment of

Below: Headlights are tested. Ours failed.

Below: Measuring light positions from outside of car.

Below: This headlight mounting bolt needs a radiused cover.

Below: Numberplate location and area is checked.

Below: Lower edge of dash checked for correct radius.

Below: The two different spheres used in the cockpit.



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IVA – THE TEST seat belt shoulder locations, headrest and, had there been one, aeroscreen or windscreen. One of VOSA’s more bizarre test rigs is the ‘Nigel’, a somewhat Heath Robinson looking structure that rests on the seat base and is used to assess the height and position of various things in the cockpit. The shoulder location for each inertia reel seatbelt was a common problem for kit cars when SVA first came into being (they were often too low), but it’s a well recognised design feature these days and the Exocet passes with flying colours. The headrests on the MX-5 seats Ash has used are also perfectly located and, because there isn’t even an aero screen on the car, there’s nothing to assess when it comes to demisting, windscreen washers or windscreen wipers... all of which can be a big part of the test on other cars. We pop the bonnet and Andy casts his eye over the engine bay as part of his overall assessment of build quality. He’s already commented how well located the wiring appears, but is less happy that one of the Mazda’s secondary fuse boxes is held in place with a tie-wrap. Cables can be located this way, but fuse boxes cannot and Ash will have to make up a bracket to fix it

more permanently to the chassis or some other structure. Now Andy takes to the driving seat and manoeuvres the Exocet onto the rollers to test out the braking performance and balance. It’s all utterly standard MX-5 based, so Ash is hoping for the clean sheet here, and so it proves... up until Andy tests the handbrake performance. The offside result is poor compared to the nearside, and below what’s permitted. One more thing to note down for the retest. Indeed, over the lunch break Ash and I try to make some adjustments but come to the conclusion that while improved, the second-hand caliper may need replacing. Otherwise the servo assisted brakes all work exactly as they should, which is great news because this is an involved part of the inspection and one area of any build that’s tricky to test at home, in advance of the big day. Speedo calibration is then tested on another set of rollers and, since Ash has retained the same rolling circumference with his larger Wolfrace alloys and lower profile tyres (once again with the Mazda speedo cable and gauges), it’s another area where the Exocet flies through without an issue. We’ve nearly completed the

Above: The Exocet is now all road legal, and all the better for its IVA inspection.

test and are at the other end of the IVA lane. It’s time for Andy to jump in and drive the Exocet around the VOSA test site. He’ll check the car for any handling anomalies, real world braking performance and self-centring of the steering. The latter can be an issue for some kit cars, but he returns a few minutes later to report that the Exocet displays superb self-centring and nothing untoward when it comes to handling or braking. Indeed, it’s an easy car to drive. The noise test is next, with a decibel meter positioned in a pre-defined location near the exhaust outlet. Within the IVA application form, Ash has already had to state what the engine’s maximum power is (130bhp) and where in the rev range this is achieved (6000rpm). The test requires the engine to be run at three-quarters of the maximum

power rpm... so in this case 4500rpm. 99dbA is the maximum reading allowed for the test and the Exocet, running its largely standard Mazda system complete with catalytic converter, sails through at just 85dbA. Finally, Andy needs to assess field of view through the rear view mirrors. Ash has fitted sensible wing mirrors from CBS which feature convex lenses and Andy can almost immediately tell there won’t be any problems. Moving the car onto some markings on the tarmac in the test area, Ash then holds a test pole in various locations behind the Exocet, with Andy in the driver’s seat. He can see everything easily. No problems. So we swing back around to the start of the IVA lane again, to put the Exocet through the emissions test, now that it has

Below: Using the ‘Nigel’ to check seatbelt shoulder location...

Below: ... and the correct position and size of headrest.

Below: Andy didn’t like the fuse box located with tie wraps...

Below: ... even this tiny ancillary fuse box needs locating.

Below: Standard MX-5 brake reservoir has correct markings.

Below: Onto the rollers to test the front and rear braking.



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UK KIT CAR GUIDE calmed down after its initial overheating problem. It’s a nerve racking few moments as the equipment goes through its test procedure, but it finally spits out a printout that gives the Exocet the green light... phew! All that’s left is for Andy to head back into the office, punch in a few of the figures and print out an IVA 30E failure sheet, outlining the items that need to be addressed for any subsequent retest. For Ash, it’s a mixture of relief and frustration. With the magazine present at the test and the car having such a high profile in CKC we both knew it would be a very thorough (and quite rightly so) assessment and we were both quite prepared for a fail. And the reality was that for much of the test the Exocet passed with flying colours. It’s clearly a kit that can easily be built to pass the regulations, with only the rear springs and headlights being an issue that was beyond Ash’s control. They can both be addressed quite simply for the retest, while the other items on the fail sheet are little niggles that will each take just minutes to put right. Andy may have been thorough in his work (as he should be), but he’s also been full of helpful advice and is clearly a petrolhead at heart.

He’s keen that kit car builders shouldn’t see VOSA as the enemy, but rather the IVA assessment as a common sense test of the work you’ve done at home. In the end, IVA is there to make sure your car is safe. He also points out that IVA inspectors are generally keen to help builders, and if you have a query before a test, most will be happy to advise you if you pop round to the test centre... after all, it makes their life easier if you can provide a car which meets the requirements instead of one that doesn’t. As an onlooker watching the test, it’s an interesting process. There’s no doubt that IVA is an intensive examination of your car. Seemingly every aspect of the build and the kit product itself is assessed in detail. And there’s every chance that, with the car up on ramps, the inspector may find things that you simply won’t be able to see at home in your garage. But that’s a good thing, isn’t it? I’d say that everything Andy found of Ash’s Exocet was worth finding and correcting. The car will be better to drive and own as a result, and as I’ve already stated, making the corrections will be relatively straightforward. So, is there any additional advice we can give, to make your own IVA inspection easier?

Useful Contacts


T: 01749 678152. E: W:

Kit package: Mills Extreme Vehicles, Mansfield, Notts NG21 0HJ. T: 01623 655522. E: W: Wheels/tyres: Wolfrace Wheels. T: 0845 330 9896. W: Suspension bushes: Superflex, Wells,

General parts: Car Builder Solutions, Staplehurst, Kent TN12 0JJ. T: 01580 891309. E: W: Further reading: MX-5 Miata 1.6 Enthusiast’s Workshop Manual. £25 plus postage. W:

Somerset BA5 1LD.

If you have a friendly local garage, it has to be worth trailering the car (if you don’t have a trailer, perhaps a member of your local kit car club does) there to get it up on ramps to have a good look around underneath for any obvious failure points. You may also be able to assess the brakes, headlights and emissions if the garage has MoT facilities. If possible, drive the car around on some private roads or tracks to help bed in the brakes and simply test the suspension etc. At least run the car up to a working temperature to ensure that the fan kicks in correctly and other aspects of the car work well. Finally, take time to look around the car and check for neat wiring runs, tidy finish and generally good standards of

workmanship. Oh, and if you haven’t read or at least scanned through the IVA Inspection Manual (which is free to download) how can you expect to pass the test? As expected, addressing the failure items was indeed easy. New headlights came from SVC which had the necessary compliance features, and the rear springs were simply replaced with standard MX-5 items. Everything else was similarly dealt with and, on reexamination, the Exocet received a clean bill of health and the next stop was to get the car registered on a new age-related numberplate. This was another simple process and one which meant that after just a couple more weeks the Exocet was on the road. Fantastic. CKC

Below: Different rollers used to test speedo accuracy.

Below: Setting the position for the noise tester.

Below: Engine revs (4500) against dbA reading (85.3dbA).

Below: Andy takes the Exocet for a test drive.

Below: Ash holds marker while Andy checks mirror visability.

Below: Andy talks through the failure items with Ash.






Page 10

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120-121 Registration:Technical 2pp



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Beginner’s Guide To...

Registration Once your kit car is built, it’ll need registering. Here’s how to ensure the process is painless.


ost kit cars will need to be registered once you have completed the build. This is the process which results in your car being allocated a registration number and, depending on the parts used, the type of registration number you’ll get. Some kit cars do not need to be registered once complete (see the Donor Car section) but that doesn’t necessarily mean you don’t have to do anything with the existing registration details you already have. The process of registering your car has changed over the last couple of years, so read this section of the Guide carefully if you are coming to the end of your project and beginning to consider this process.

WHO’S WHO? It’s important to understand that IVA and registration are handled by two very different government agencies and we’ve often found that there are occasions where there

appears to be little joined-up thinking between them which can lead to frustrations when getting your car on the road. VOSA – The Vehicle Operator And Services Agency deals with IVA. DVLA – The Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency deals with registration.

REGISTRATION TYPES Here are the different types of registration you may be eligable for when you apply to the DVLA.

Above: If you use all new components (or use just one second-hand component), then a current year registration is allocated.

Current year registration – In order to qualify for a current year registration number your car must be either made up of all new components or with just one major component (such as the engine) being reconditioned to as-new specification. Example: Any kit car using all new components, with receipts to prove it, such as a comprehensive Westfield kit.

Age-related registration – If your car uses at least two major components from a single donor car, along with either a modified donor chassis or brand new chassis from your kit car manufacturer, then you can expect to be allocated an agerelated numberplate. In other words, a plate that refers to the age of the donor car. Example: The Murtaya pictured

Below: An age-related plate is allocated where at least two major components come from one donor car, such as with this Subaru Impreza based Murtaya.


below left, which uses most of the components sourced from a single Subaru Impreza, including the engine. Q-plate – If your car is made up of parts gathered together from all over the place, then it’s a Q-plate for you. Example: A typical Lotus Seven replica using a motorbike engine, Ford suspension components, aftermarket brakes and a mix

Below: A Q-plate is used where components are sourced from various cars, for instance when using a motorbike engine and suspension from different sources.


120-121 Registration:Technical 2pp



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Above: If you rebody the unmodified chassis of another car, then you can retain its identity.

Above: It’s important registration details are correct, particularly if you buy a second-hand car.

of other parts taken from a variety of sources.

fund licence and first registration fee

Donor plate – If your car uses an unmodified chassis and running gear from a previously registered car, then you’ll retain the donor’s identity, but you must notify the DVLA of the change in body type and name. This must be done officially, and requires you to send in the V5C, pictures of the conversion process, receipt for the body panel kit and any other major components, and a covering letter to explain the work done. The DVLA will then decide whether further information or an inspection of the vehicle is required. Example: Any of the various panel kits currently proving popular within the scene, so long as the main chassis/monocoque structure has not been modified in any way.


The type of registration you are

aiming for will determine exactly what forms and procedures you must comply with. Registering a car for the first time (ie, not when you are retaining the donor registration) is not done at your local Post Office. Up until the first half of 2013 you would have dealt with your nearest DVLA Local Office, but these have now been closed and you will, instead, be dealing directly with the DVLA head office in Swansea. You will need to provide them with...

V55/4 – This form is available from your local Post Office, but you will also need a supporting booklet (V355/4) which will help you fill out the form correctly. One area that often caused confusion in the past was whether the DVLA Local Office would want to inspect the car for itself. Now that Local Offices no longer exist, this confusion appears to have been addressed, in that our understanding is that the IVA IAC pass certificate is now accepted as proof enough of the vehicle’s identity... and no inspection is required. Another area of potential confusion is whether your kit will require an MoT before it can be registered. The official line of the DVLA’s press department is that an MoT is required for registration purposes. However, the reality doesn’t always appear as clear. On the basis that an IVA test does not assess the same things as an MoT, we’d suggest that for peace of mind you may want to have an MoT done to check features such as the condition of suspension components, worn bushes etc. There is no question that many builders find the process of registration extremely frustrating after the long buildup and subsequent passing of the seemingly larger hurdle of IVA. Our advice is to be very clear about what type of registration you would like and feel you are entitled to, and

• IAC certificate (see the Rough Guide To IVA section) • Driving licence (or other approved documentation – no photocopies) • Insurance certificate (still using the chassis number) • A completed V55/4 form • Donor registration document (where applicable) • All major receipts for parts • Built-up Vehicle Inspection Report (V627/1) • Payment for first year road

Below: Even if you are doing a panel kit and expect to retain the base vehicle’s identity, you’ll still need to apply to the DVLA, to make sure the V5C accurately reflects the new identity.



provide the necessary paperwork to support your assertion.

REGISTRATION COSTS First registration fee 12 month road tax (dependent on engine) Insurance

£55 – –


Registration should be straightforward, but it has taken a while for DVLA in Swansea to rework the procedure now that Local Offices have been closed. As we go to press for the Guide (October 2014) we currently receive more correspondence from readers regarding the frustrations of registration than we do regarding IVA. Hopefully that situation will improve over the next twelve months. CKC

Useful Contacts You will find most information is now pooled on the following government website... For registration detail DVLA contact details MASET D4, Kit Application, DVLA, Swansea SA99 1ZZ Download V355/4 Download V627/1

Subscription DPS - August 2014:Technical 2pp



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AND START SAVING TRY A DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTION • OVERSEAS READERS You pay exactly the same as a UK subscriber. • TOP UP Add a digital subscription to your existing paper subscription for just £20. • ALL FORMATS Will work in all the main digital formats. iOS, Android etc. • ADDITIONAL FEATURES Play movie clips, see additional photo galleries and contact featured manufacturers directly from the app. • ANYWHERE Have CKC with you, wherever you go. • SUBS CLUB AND T-SHIRT Subscribe via CKC and you’ll be eligible for Subs Club membership and receive a free T-shirt (see below). WHERE TO BUY THE APP... You can download the latest issue and subscribe instantly via the Apple Newsstand. Subscribing via CKC will involve up to a 24-hour delay (CKC is the ONLY way to buy a ‘top-up or ‘Combi’ subscription and is the ONLY way to get a free T-shirt and Subs Club membership).

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124-127 Terminology:Technical 2pp



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Beginner’s Guide To...

Terminology Do you know your damper from your spring, your hub carrier from your stub axle? Read on and all will be revealed...


t’s easy to assume that we all have the same basic knowledge about cars, but more often than not, this isn’t the case. If you’re not 100 per cent sure what a hub carrier is and how it might be different from a stub axle, or why an Aarm might (or might not) be different from a wishbone, then this feature aims to set the record straight. Having said that, we can’t hope to cover all the technical terms we regularly use in the UK Guide To Kit Cars or Complete Kit Car magazine, and we should also make clear now that the definitions given won’t always be strictly accurate from an engineer’s perspective. These are the terms we regularly use in the mag, and what we mean when we use them! A-Arm – see ‘Wishbone’. Anti-roll bar – Usually a chassis mounted metal bar or tube which is linked at either end to the suspension (front or back) on either side of the car. Anti-roll bars come in different specifications and have the

effect of limiting body roll while a car is cornering. Ball joints – Usually found at the end of typically a lower wishbone, and used to locate the upright. It’s spherical design allows the upright to move freely. • Suspension bush

Above: This suspension upright (arrowed) has been cast, rather than machined.

Bushes – Typically made of rubber on a production car, they are used to allow components to rotate but to prevent vibration in one component from being transmitted through the car. The downside of a rubber bush is that it can also flex, making responses (for instance in the steering or suspension), less precise than one might like in a sports car. To avoid this, uprated/firmer bushes can be specified, often in the form of polyurethane

(poly) bushes. Finally, the bush can be replaced with a solid bush, but with obvious isolation issues in terms of noise and vibration. Calipers – These are part of the braking system. They retain the brake pads and press them onto the discs by way of pistons within the caliper. Uprated calipers often have 4-pistons instead of the more usual two, and are often referred to as 4pot calipers.

Below: A ball joint.


• Brake caliper

Cast – Often used in CKC when referring to the uprights in a suspension system. Cast aluminium uprights are formed by pouring the molten metal into a mould to form the

Below: A spaceframe chassis features lots of triangulation.


124-127 Terminology:Technical 2pp



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Above: A coil-over features an outer spring located around a damper unit.

desired structure. If made as one-offs or in small numbers this is an expensive process which is often avoided in favour of a more affordable ‘fabricated’ upright. Chassis – Not easy to sum up quickly, but this is the base structure on which all the car’s suspension and bodywork is hung. The chassis needs to be strong, torsionally stiff (resistent to twisting), light and offer good occupant protection. In the kit car scene most chassis are made from either square and/or round tube steel. These structures will typically take the form of a spaceframe chassis (where a triangulated framework is designed around the occupants and engine bay) or backbone chassis (where the triangulated structure is concentrated down the centre tunnel of the car and out to the front and rear suspension). Occasionally we refer to a multi-tubular chassis, where we may find larger diameter tubing,


Above: A driveshaft takes power from the differential out to the wheels.

with less triangulation. You will also hear us refer to a ladder chassis, which is a flat structure comprising two main side rails with linking bars to form a ladder style structure. Monocoque chassis are typically made with sheet steel, aluminium or fibreglass. The material is assembled to create a box-like structure which either includes the outer panels or onto which the outer panels can be fitted.

• Dampers

the shocks going through the suspension. Differential –The differential unit is an assembly of gears which allows the driving wheels on either side of the car to rotate at different speeds when cornering. Limited Slip Differentials restrict the ability of the wheels to turn at different speeds to prevent wheel spin on poor surfaces or if a wheel begins to lift under hard cornering.

Coil-over –This is where the suspension coil spring is located around the damper. Most modern kit cars have this setup, but cars using older donors may have the spring and damper located separately. Damper – Often incorrectly referred to as the shock absorber. The damper in a suspension system does exactly what it says... it dampens the oscillation of the spring. It’s actually the spring itself which is the shock absorber, absorbing

Discs – The disc you can see through a typical alloy wheel, onto which the caliper clamps the brake pads. Can be solid, vented, drilled, grooved and virtually any variation of these, all in an attempt to improve braking performance.

Below: A ladder chassis features substantial size chassis rails, but is largely flat.

Donor – The production car from which some or most (but rarely all) of the components to build a kit car are taken. Fabricated – See also ‘Cast’. This is most frequently used in CKC when referring to the uprights or hub carriers, and it means these components are welded or machined components (usually in steel). Fibreglass – Thin fibres of glass woven into a cloth or bound together with an emulsion to form sheets which can be encased in resin. Final drive – This is the large component, at the back of the car on a rear-wheel drive car, which takes the drive from the propshaft and transfers it out to the driveshafts. There is normally a large crown wheel driven by a small pinion and the size of these two components determines the final drive ratio. A high ratio gives good acceleration but a low ratio gives relaxed high speed cruising. Gelcoat – This is the resin which, when set, forms the smooth top layer of most fibreglass panels. It can be left uncoloured, or tinted in a range of colours which can form the final finish for bodywork where the moulds are of sufficient quality.

• Discs

Driveshafts – These are the shafts which take power from the differential out to the wheels.



GRP – A structure of glass fibres and resins that form the bodywork for the majority of kit cars. Hub carrier – This is the component which is mounted

124-127 Terminology:Technical 2pp



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Above: Master cylinders are used for both the brake and clutch systems.

at the outer end of the top and bottom wishbone on a typical kit car but which also, vitally, house the hubs, bearings and splines etc which allow drive to the wheels. As such, a hub carrier will only be found at whichever end of the car takes drive to the wheels. Inboard/Outboard – This refers to components that are either at the wheel end or the chassis end of the wishbones. Jaguar XJ6s had inboard rear discs, located next to the differential, but later XJ40 Jaguars have outboard discs in the conventional location. Similarly, some kit cars have inboard coil-over dampers located inboard of the wishbones while most kit cars have outboard coil-overs, as seen on the front suspension of most sevenesque kit cars. IVA – Individual Vehicle Approval. The test procedure that most newly built kit cars

Above: This is a pushrod suspension system.

must go through before they can be registered.

the wishbone, you need a way of transferring the suspension movement to the coil-over. This can be done by a simple rod linkage, usually via a bell crank which locates onto the top of the coil-over (see also ‘rocking arm’).

Master cylinder – The hydraulic cylinder that is operated by either the brake or clutch pedal (either directly or remotely). The action of the master cylinder is to transfer movement and pressure through the hydraulic fluid to a slave cylinder, located at or near the end component (such as the clutch or brakes).

Propshaft – The shaft which transfers drive from the gearbox usually to the rear mounted differential on a rear-wheel drive car.

Moulds – For our use this usually refers to the moulds in which fibreglass panels can be made. You may also hear us refer to a plug or buck, and this is the original shape created by the designer, from which the mould is made. This procedure ensures that the fibreglass panel to be made is an exact copy of the original plug.

Quick rack – The steering rack on a car can be geared to produce different levels of response from a set amount of movement on the steering wheel. A quick rack is usually an upgrade over the standard item. The effect is to ‘sharpen’ the steering feel of a car, by requiring less movement of the wheel for the same amount of steering effect.

Pushrod suspension – Where you have an in-board coil-over that isn’t directly acted upon by

Rocking arm – See also ‘Inboard/Outboard’. Where the

Below: With this inboard suspension, the coil-over dampers are located inside the chassis.


• Rocking arm

coil-over damper is located inboard of the wishbones, the top wishbone can become a top rocking arm, where the wishbone is designed in such a way that it pivots at the chassis rail, with the inboard part of the top wishbone now acting on the top of the coil-over. Roll bar/roll cage – The roll bar is most usually a single round tube steel bar that goes up from the chassis from behind the occupants’ outer shoulders to form a protective hoop behind the occupants designed to protect them in the event of the car turning over in an accident. A roll cage takes this to the next level, by

Below: This is the mould for a Cobra replica.


124-127 Terminology:Technical 2pp



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Above: This is the stub axle (arrowed).

forming a protective cage around the occupants. A roll cage will often be a requirement in certain forms of motorsport. • Rose joint

Above and below right: Two examples of a wishbone. The example above can also be called an A-arm for very obvious visual reasons.

Shock absorber – Not a word you’ll find in CKC, but often incorrectly used to describe the suspension dampers. The springs are actually the shock absorbers and the dampers control the movement of the springs.

springs) and torsion bars have been used, more usually on older production cars. Stub axle – This is the horizontal projection on the upright that carries the wheel hub and wheel bearings.

Shutlines – These are the panel gaps between adjoining panels. They should be even and relatively small (see pic right).

Subframe – You can have a subframe for almost anything, but most commonly you’ll find it as a pressed steel item from a donor car, onto which the entire front or rear suspension is mounted. This complete assembly is then bolted into the car. This system is used to ease assembly on production lines. Subframes can also be tubular.

Slave cylinder – See ‘Master cylinder’. Rose joints – Otherwise known as spherical joints. These can be used in all manner of places on a kit car... in the throttle linkage or gear change but perhaps most obviously within the suspension. Here they take the place of the suspension bushes. The upside is a direct and adjustable suspension set-up, but the downside can be rattling and general noise transmitted through the suspension.

SVA – Single Vehicle Approval. The test procedure that preceded IVA (see IVA entry).

• Springs

Springs – These are found in the suspension and support the weight of the car whilst absorbing road shocks. Coil springs are the most common type but leaf springs (cart

Transaxle – This component combines the gearbox and differential in a single unit. Midengined cars will usually have a transaxle taking drive from the engine into the gearbox and straight out to the driveshafts (no propshaft) via an integral differential. Porsche units are often of this design, and Alfa Romeo (among others) has often used a front engine with a transaxle at the back to help improve weight distribution.

Below: A shutline is the gap between two panels.

Unsprung weight – The weight of the car chassis, body and drive train is supported by the suspension springs at each corner, but some components, such as the wheels, uprights and brakes etc are not supported by the springs. These components




move up and down with the suspension movement and this movement is absorbed and controlled by the springs and dampers at each corner. The heavier they are, the more work the springs and dampers must do to control them and the more impact they have on the ‘sportiness’ of the ride, steering and general responsiveness of the car. This is why it is important to keep the unsprung weight as low as possible. Upright/vertical link –The upright is the component which joins the outer end of the top and bottom wishbones and on to which the wheel is mounted. Unlike the hub carrier, the upright does not have to deal with drive to the wheels. Wishbone – The V-shaped arm that is located on the chassis and goes out to locate the suspension upright and wheels etc. Most kit cars are double wishbone in layout, and the lower (usually longer) wishbone often has an extra crossbrace for added strength to give it an ‘A’ shape when viewed from above, hence the other term for a wishbone... ‘A-arm’. In CKC we generally only use the term wishbone. CKC




Page 10

T: 01388 762288






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Throttle Body kit’s coming soon!

Front & Rear Anti Rollbar kits to suit all Westfields and other makes of “7”.



Fibre-glass rear diffuser measuring 105cm wide by 82cm long and 16cm high at the rear. These are made in gloss black and have a woven matt finish, producing a strong product. These weigh 3.5kg. Plays Kool Motorsport Ltd Unit 5, ESP Commercial Centre, Prospect Road, Crook, Co. Durham DL15 8JL All prices include VAT

GET THE CKC APP TODAY! For more details on this great new product please visit




Page 11


Just search ‘Track Day Directory’ in the app store and hit ‘download’

IN TO G TR et A th CK e ap DA p! YS ?

• UK Circuit A-Z • Directories for track day essentials • Plus loads more!

GET THE CKC APP TODAY! For more details on this great new product please visit

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CLUB Directory

Clubs play a vital role in the kit car scene, not just as your destination for a new social circle, but also as a vital source of information when researching a future project and during the build itself. 289 REGISTER Bill Telford E: W:

COVIN OWNERS’ CLUB Michael Dykes. E: W:







ARISTOCAT REGISTER Carolyn Taylor, T: 01254 886819. E: E:

DRK CLUB E: DUTTON OWNERS’ CLUB E: membershipsecretary@ W:





BLACKJACK AVION CAR CLUB Geoff Ryall Harvey, T: 01244 310891








CARLTON OWNERS' CLUB E: webmaster@carltonowners W:

FORMULA 27 OWNERS’ CLUB Darren Lutton. T: 01684 293016. E: W:

CC CYCLONE Information on the CC Cyclone W:


CITROËN SPECIALS’ CLUB Carole Chitty, T: 01252 620128. E: W:


CHALLENGER OWNERS’ CLUB Tony Kimber T: 01202 693556. W:

GT40 ENTHUSIASTS’ CLUB E: membership@gt40 W:






IRISH KIT CAR CLUB Paschall Carroll. E: W:

CLUB NOVA/AVANTE Elaine Tindall. T: 0208 6688982. E: W:

ITALIAN REPLICA CLUB Roy Kelly. T: 01924 273619. E: W:

• UK Cobra Club

JAGO OWNERS’ CLUB Helen Scott, E: JBA OWNERS’ CLUB E: W: JPSC Club for any Jeremy Philips designed cars. W: JZR PILOTS’ ASSOCIATION E: W: KENT KIT CAR CLUB E: W: WWW.LAMBOREPLICA.CO.UK Forum, pics and info W: LIÊGE CAR CLUB E: W: WWW.LOCOSTBUILDERS.CO.UK Large forum for Locost



130-131 Club Directory:Technical 2pp



Page 131

UK KIT CAR GUIDE enthusiasts W:


• Stratos Enthusiasts’ Club








STIMSON SCORCHER & TREK OWNERS’ CLUB Philip Lyons, 10 First Avenue, Swinton, Manchester M27 5RH. T: 07914 956197













NG OWNERS’ CLUB Bob Morrison, E: W:


NORTHERN DUTTONEERS E: thenorthernduttoneers@ W:

WESSEX KIT CAR CLUB Dennis Jones, T: 01202 280625. E: W:







RICKMAN OWNERS’ CLUB E: membership@rickmancars W:








SPORTS CAR BUILDER CLUB OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA PO Box 307, Byford, 6122 Western Australia. E: W:


If you know of a club that is not listed here and you think it ought to be, please email us and we’ll not only add it for next year, but get it onto the Complete Kit Car website club listing. E: