THE TRAVELING HABERDASHER: WHITE TIE & TAILS Elijah Mills, PM Arminius Lodge No. 25
The author (right) displays the difference between white tie and the less formal tuxedo (left)
W
hile it seems that interminable Zoom meetings might still plague our future Masonic endeavors, thus stripped of their mystery and majesty, and fated to be reduced to the most mundane of bureaucratic administrative functions for the rest of our natural lives, I, nevertheless, write to you now with a message of hope. For it is in hope that we live our lives as brethren of faith in the One God, so we now turn our hopeful gaze to that most sublime of things-to-come. That is, our ceremonies and solemnities but most chiefly, we return, dear reader, to the subject hinted at in an earlier article: how to wear a tailcoat.
days to purchase from the same lot of fabric, but this has become impracticable while standardization has come so far as to render this meaningless in ordinary wear.
In short, the tailcoat is considerably fussier than the tuxedo and in no way suggests luxurious relaxation like it, either. It is, however when worn properly, so designed to elevate any silhouette to the envy of the entire room.
Additionally, and most important to the Mason reading this is: no full-size medals nor lapel pins are permissible. You are invited to custom-order miniatures of the medals as suited to white tie, but otherwise these decorations are to be left at home. When in doubt: take it off.
In essence, the elements of formal evening wear are: 1) trousers similar to, but different than a tuxedo; 2) a matching shirt, vest (also known as a waistcoat), and bow tie; and 3) a long coat which does not button, but hangs to the knees. The most difficult element of this ensemble, and where a trusty tailor comes in handy, is ensuring that the vest does not show below the cut of the jacket. This means the trousers will be higher waisted than you are perhaps used to, but nothing is worse than having a waistcoat marching down to your ankles. Now, a few general notes so we have a firm foundation would be wise. Principally, you should attempt to purchase the shirt, collar, vest, and bow tie from the same manufacturer. This way, the fabric should entirely match; it was the custom in the old
The following1 should be a checklist for your formal or white tie outfit. Again, like our previous conversation concerning the tuxedo, be wary of leaving this list for any reason and consider with great peril the dangers of being photographed and lampooned on social media for outré choices. Tailcoat – black or midnight blue worsted or smooth blend. Peaked lapels only, faced in satin or grosgrain. Waistcoat – white piqué, single or double-breasted, with bottom edge in V or in straight line. Fastened with self-covered buttons (as in America) or separate studs, the latter usually crystal, white pearl, or white enamel, made to match the shirt studs as a set. Trousers – to match coat, with a double ribbon or braid of black satin, with no cuffs. To be strictly correct, this double stripe is the same as the tuxedo decoration on the out seam, but there are two instead of one. However, only a fastidiously nosey person would notice this and perhaps they have better things to look at than your trousers.
1 “Social Etiquette: The way you look.” In The New Esquire Etiquette; a Guide to Business, Sports and Social Conduct, 215–16. Philadelphia, PA: Lippincott, 1959. 10 | THE VOICE OF FREEMASONRY ISSUE 2, 2021
Fred Astaire, in Top Hat 1935
Unlike the tuxedo which we covered before, the tailcoat (otherwise called “formal wear/dress” or “white tie and tails”) has a murkier origin. It is a curious and delightful relic of the past where people arbitrarily chose one point in a developing trend to freeze all changes as the garment had seemingly reached its zenith. However, the entire history of formalwear is both beyond the scope of these scant words but also so monstrously boring to most that it likely isn’t worth the recounting. Owing
to that, the modern and salient facts will be adhered to here, with only minimal reference to older traditions, those too only when salient.
