The Traveling Haberdasher: White Tie & Tails

Elijah Mills, PM Arminius Lodge No. 25

The author (right) displays the difference between white tie and the less formal tuxedo (left)

While it seems that interminable Zoom meetings might still plague our future Masonic endeavors, thus stripped of their mystery and majesty, and fated to be reduced to the most mundane of bureaucratic administrative functions for the rest of our natural lives, I, nevertheless, write to you now with a message of hope. For it is in hope that we live our lives as brethren of faith in the One God, so we now turn our hopeful gaze to that most sublime of things-to-come. That is, our ceremonies and solemnities but most chiefly, we return, dear reader, to the subject hinted at in an earlier article: how to wear a tailcoat.

Unlike the tuxedo which we covered before, the tailcoat (otherwise called “formal wear/dress” or “white tie and tails”) has a murkier origin. It is a curious and delightful relic of the past where people arbitrarily chose one point in a developing trend to freeze all changes as the garment had seemingly reached its zenith. However, the entire history of formalwear is both beyond the scope of these scant words but also so monstrously boring to most that it likely isn’t worth the recounting. Owing to that, the modern and salient facts will be adhered to here, with only minimal reference to older traditions, those too only when salient.

In short, the tailcoat is considerably fussier than the tuxedo and in no way suggests luxurious relaxation like it, either. It is, however when worn properly, so designed to elevate any silhouette to the envy of the entire room.

In essence, the elements of formal evening wear are: 1) trousers similar to, but different than a tuxedo; 2) a matching shirt, vest (also known as a waistcoat), and bow tie; and 3) a long coat which does not button, but hangs to the knees. The most difficult element of this ensemble, and where a trusty tailor comes in handy, is ensuring that the vest does not show below the cut of the jacket. This means the trousers will be higher waisted than you are perhaps used to, but nothing is worse than having a waistcoat marching down to your ankles.

Now, a few general notes so we have a firm foundation would be wise. Principally, you should attempt to purchase the shirt, collar, vest, and bow tie from the same manufacturer. This way, the fabric should entirely match; it was the custom in the old days to purchase from the same lot of fabric, but this has become impracticable while standardization has come so far as to render this meaningless in ordinary wear.

Additionally, and most important to the Mason reading this is: no full-size medals nor lapel pins are permissible. You are invited to custom-order miniatures of the medals as suited to white tie, but otherwise these decorations are to be left at home. When in doubt: take it off.

The following1 should be a checklist for your formal or white tie outfit.

Again, like our previous conversation concerning the tuxedo, be wary of leaving this list for any reason and consider with great peril the dangers of being photographed and lampooned on social media for outré choices.

Tailcoat – black or midnight blue worsted or smooth blend. Peaked lapels only, faced in satin or grosgrain.

Waistcoat – white piqué, single or double-breasted, with bottom edge in V or in straight line. Fastened with self-covered buttons (as in America) or separate studs, the latter usually crystal, white pearl, or white enamel, made to match the shirt studs as a set.

Trousers – to match coat, with a double ribbon or braid of black satin, with no cuffs. To be strictly correct, this double stripe is the same as the tuxedo decoration on the out seam, but there are two instead of one. However, only a fastidiously nosey person would notice this and perhaps they have better things to look at than your trousers.

Shirt – white piqué in the neckband style, with stiff single cuffs (not French, double cuffs as in a Tuxedo shirt), and a detachable stiff white, wing collar. Starched white front of self-same white piqué.

Tie – white piqué bow only. Self-tie is the only respectable option at this point of gentlemanly dress. What is further recommended is to buy a sized bow tie cut to your neck size, since the standing collar doesn’t hide the adjustable buckle.

Socks – must be black or blue to match the coat; silk is a classic touch.

Shoes – black patent leather only, either oxfords sans toe cap or the more traditional pump with or without the flat grosgrain bows.

Hat and gloves – it was noted around this 1959 guide to etiquette and certainly by the guidebooks of the ‘60s that hats and gloves had just about died out. If you must, wear a top hat only outdoors and white doeskin or lambskin gloves indoors only but these are better carried in your hand as a prop. Consider this an advanced level and avoided like a cane as probably being too theatrical.

Overcoat – black or midnight navy wool to match the coat, with or without velvet collar, or a cape. The length of the coat should eclipse that of the tails, so no windbreakers over your tailcoats please.

Accessories – a white silk scarf is a classic detail as is a white linen handkerchief in the breast pocket. Watches are not to be worn as they indicate a distraction from the present social delights and only people who are eyeing the door to leave eye their watches. It is best to leave these at home or leave yourself at home if you cannot commit to the evening’s agenda. Studs for the shirt and waistcoat should all match and be pearl or diamond to not mar the white tie effect and disastrously bring a stain of color into the ensemble.

All of this should be treated as your baseline and, when properly adhered to, will earn

Close-up of a proper pique tie and shirt combination. An extreme close-up of white pique fabric appropriate for shirt, waistcoat, and tie. White Tie trousers

you the keen estimation of your brethren. White tie is more difficult to put on and dances in a smaller margin of error than the more relaxed tuxedo. This isn’t aided by the general societal shift away from the garment. We are dangerously approaching a world where those who need to wear them have bespoke tailors and valets and the rest of us run around in dreadful “athleisure.”

Tellingly, in the 19th edition of Emily Post (whom we relied on so well for the tuxedo), the tailcoat is relegated to an appendix (charmingly titled in this print book “emilypost.com/resources”),2 which reveals to us how much it has declined in relevance to the everyman who might need to dress. However, if we again take seriously our own vows of selfenlightenment and improvement, attiring our own mortal coil in the style befitting true gentlemen, we will so share our light with the world that we might better glorify our Father in Heaven.

2 Daniel Post Senning and Lizzie Post, “Resources, Dressing for the Occasion,” in Emily Post’s Etiquette - Manners for Today (New York, NY: Harper Collins Publishers Inc, 2017), pp. 683.