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Unleashed

Vol. 7 Issue 2 - Summer 2020

Delmarva

The Games of the 6th

h Palooz c o a Dog Festival Po Schedule Inside

“Ollie”

What We Can Learn From Dogs Quarantine Weight Gain Dogs & Contractors 1

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Delmarva Unleashed Summer 2020

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contents Vol. 7 Issue 2 Summer 2020

Delmarva Unleashed Publisher Sandy Phillips Associate Publisher Farin Phillips Edited by Nelson Griffin Contributing Writers Amanda Abresch, B.S., ABCDT, APDT, CPDT-KA Polly Elliott John Maniatty, V.M.D. Jimmy Raven Lisa Woodside Susie Yakowicz Office (410)726-7334

6 8 11 15 18 22 26 33 36 38

Bark of the Town Hurricane Preparedness Basic First Aid Checklist What We Can Learn From Dogs Wait! Come Back! Dogs & Contractors Your Smart Pup Quarantine Weight Gain Happens to Our Pets Too! Getting Your Dog To Try New Things A Nose for Adventure

Delmarva Unleashed is published four times a year; Spring, Summer, Fall, and Holiday/Winter. It is circulated throughout Maryland’s Lower Shore, Mid Shore and onto Virginia’s Eastern Shore. The magazine can also be found throughout Delaware and is published by Grand Living Magazine, LLC. “Delmarva Unleashed” is protected under trademark registration. No portion of this publication, in whole or part, may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Copyright 2020©, Grand Living Magazine, LLC. All rights reserved. Content in Delmarva Unleashed is intended to provide information only and is in no way meant to treat or diagnose. Always consult with a specialty professional to address your own personal needs. The company makes every effort to ensure that all information presented is correct, however, we do not make any representations or warranties as to the accuracy of the information, and reliance on information provided, is solely at your own risk. Pooch Palooza and FastFetch Cup are trademarks owned by Grand Living Magazine, LLC.


pg. 15

40 Fleas, Where Do They Come From? 44 Bone Appetite 46 Doggie Socials 50 Rescues 52 Canine Perspective On the Cover:

“Ollie� proudly owned by Casey Johnson of Chincoteague, VA. Photo was taken during and Inside Chincoteague (a sister publication) photo shoot at Big Pappa SUP, Chincoteague, VA.

Submissions: Please email all editorial material to creative@grandlivingmag. com. We welcome previously unpublished articles and high resolution color images in jpg format. We cannot guarantee that either will be printed or returned. All articles are subject to editing and fact check. We reserve the right to publish all letters received. You may also mail submissions to Grand Living Magazine, 12610 Murray Rd, Whaleyville, MD 21872.


Bark

of the Town

Kids, Dogs & Mental Health

Salt Water Poisoning

Research at John's Hopkins Children's Center and Baltimore's Sheppard Pratt may indicate that having a dog as a child reduces the risk of developing mental health problems, for challenges such as schizophrenia, by 24% in adulthood. While not only contributing to the emotional well-being of the child, scientist think that schizophrenia may be warded off by influencing the development of the immune system. It's important to keep in mind that this research is preliminary, with only a little over 1300 participants in the study, 400 of whom had schizophrenia. It is, however, intriguing enough for additional research.

According to the Pet Poison Hotline, the most common signs of saltwater poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst, lack of appetite, and lethargy. If your dog’s behavior changes or they exhibit any of these symptoms after swimming, contact your veterinarian immediately. It’s not just about a refreshing drink on a hot day. Most dogs won’t drink salt water, particularly if there is a source of freshwater, which you should always have on hand. Dogs get water in their mouths playing in the water, either from catching balls or toys or simply from frolicking in the water and swallowing it.

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Your Canine Personal Trainer You may already be living with the perfect personal trainer. A new study completed at Michigan State University shows people who owned and walked their dogs were 34 percent more likely to meet federal benchmarks on physical activity. “Walking is the most accessible form of physical activity available to people,” says epidemiologist Mathew Reeves. “What we wanted to know if dog owners, who walked their dogs, were getting more physical activity, or if the dog-walking was simply a substitute for other forms of activity.”

Reeves also notes the social and human/animal bond aspects of owning a dog, which has been shown to have a positive impact on the quality of life. And since only about two-thirds of dog owners reported regularly walking their dogs, Reeves said dog ownership represents an opportunity to increase participation in walking and overall physical activity. The study showed that people who walked their dogs walked about an hour longer per week than people who owned dogs but did not walk them.

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! n aso

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Discussion provided by the U.S. Office of Homeland Security.

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Do You Have A PET Preparedness Kit? Get a Kit of pet emergency supplies. Just as you do with your family’s emergency supply kit, think first about the basics for survival, particularly food and water. • Food: Keep at least three days of food in an airtight, waterproof container. • Water: Store at least three days of water specifically for your pets, in addition to water you need for yourself and your family. • Medicines and medical records: Keep an extra supply of medicines your pet takes on a regular basis in a waterproof container. • First aid kit: Talk to your veterinarian about what is most appropriate for your pet’s emergency medical needs. Most kits should include cotton bandage rolls, bandage tape and scissors; antibiotic ointment; flea and tick prevention; latex gloves, isopropyl alcohol and saline solution. Include a pet first aid reference book. • Collar with ID tag, harness or leash: Your pet should wear a collar with its rabies tag and identification at all times. Include a backup leash, collar and ID tag in your pet’s emergency supply kit. • Important documents: Place copies of your pet’s registration information, adoption papers, vaccination documents and medical records in a clean plastic bag or waterproof container and also add them to your kit.

• Crate or other pet carrier: If you need to evacuate in an emergency situation take your pets and animals with you, provided that it is practical to do so. • Sanitation: Include pet litter and litter box if appropriate, newspapers, paper towels, plastic trash bags and household chlorine bleach to provide for your pet’s sanitation needs. You can use bleach as a disinfectant (dilute nine parts water to one part bleach), or in an emergency you can also use it to purify water. Use 8 drops of regular household liquid bleach per gallon of water, stir well and let it stand for 30 minutes before use. Do not use scented or color safe bleaches or those with added cleaners. • A picture of you and your pet together: If you become separated from your pet during an emergency, a picture of you and your pet together will help you document ownership and allow others to assist you in identifying your pet. Include detailed information about species, breed, age, sex, color and distinguishing characteristics. • Familiar items can help reduce stress for your pet. Put favorite toys, treats or bedding in your kit.

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Consider two kits. In one, put everything your pets will need to stay where you are and make it on your own. The other should be a lightweight, smaller version you can take with you if you and your pets have to get away.

Make a Plan for what you will do in an emergency. Plan in advance what you will do in an emergency. Be prepared to assess the situation. Use common sense and whatever you have on hand to take care of yourself and ensure your pet’s safety during an emergency. Evacuate Plan how you will assemble your pets and anticipate where you will go. If you must evacuate, take your pets with you, if practical. If you go to a public shelter, keep in mind your pets may not be allowed inside. Secure appropriate lodging in advance depending on the number and type of animals in your care. Consider family or friends outside your immediate area who would be willing to take in you and your pets in an emergency. Other options may include: a hotel or motel that takes pets or some sort of boarding facility, such as a kennel or veterinary hospital that is near an evacuation facility or your family’s meeting place. Find out before an emergency happens if any of these facilities in your area might be viable options for you and your pets. Develop a buddy system 10

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Plan with neighbors, friends or relatives to make sure that someone is available to care for or evacuate your pets if you are unable to do so. Talk with your pet care buddy about your evacuation plans and show them where you keep your pet’s emergency supply kit. Also designate specific locations, one in your immediate neighborhood and other farther away, where you will meet in an emergency. Talk to your pet’s veterinarian about emergency planning. Discuss the types of things you should include in your pet’s emergency first aid kit. Get the names of vets or veterinary hospitals in other cities where you might need to seek temporary shelter. Also talk with your veterinarian about microchipping. If you and your pet are separated, this permanent implant for your pet and corresponding enrollment in a recovery database can help a veterinarian or shelter identify your animal. If your pet is microchipped, keeping your emergency contact information up to date and listed with a reliable recovery database is essential to you and your pet being reunited.


Basic Pet First Aid Checklist Keep a kit of basic first aid supplies for the pets in your household. Many of the items in a family first aid kit can be used for pets, too.

Important Numbers

Veterinarian Emergency clinic Poison control 888-426-4435 Animal Control Non Emergency Police

Adhesive Tape

for securing bandages

Eye Dropper (or large syringe without needle) to give oral treatments or flush wounds

Your Dog’s Medical Record

K-Y Jelly (or generic version) to protect wounds. Use only at the direction of your veterinarian.

Digital Fever Thermometer

Milk of Magnesia or Activated Charcoal

(copy) Good to have in the event of a weather evacuation.

Muzzle to prevent bites

(DO NOT muzzle your pet if he/she is vomiting)

Spare Leash & Collar Gauze Roll for wrapping wounds

or muzzling an injured animal

Clean Towels for restraining, cleaning, or padding

to absorb poison Use only if you are instructed to do so by your veterinarian or a poison control center

3% Hydrogen Peroxide

to induce vomiting Always contact your veterinarian or poison control center before inducing vomiting; do not use hydrogen peroxide on wounds.

protect wounds

Saline Solution for cleansing wounds (Saline sold for use with contact lenses works well for most purposes.)

Self Adhearing Non-Stick Tape for bandages

(for cats and small dogs)

Nonstick bandages or stripes of cloth to control bleeding or

Location of Your Pet Carrier Source: American Veterinary Medical Association Delmarva Unleashed Summer 2020

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Pooch Palooza Dog Festival September 12 & 13, 2020 9 am - 4 pm Frontier Town Western Theme Park

Advance tickets online at PoochPalooza.com Single Day $12 Weekend Pass $20 At the gate - Single Day $15 Weekend Pass $25

Your Dog Wants to Be Here!


Subject to Change!

Pooch Palooza 2020 All updates in time will appear on this Facebook page! Helio Ball Drop is weather dependent. If the weather poses a problem for the helicopter, the Tennis Ball Lottery will continue with a modified ball delivery. On going activities include Lure Chasing, the Agility Play Area, and the Canine Photo booth!

Saturday Sept. 12th 9:00 9:30

Gates Open Ultimate Air Dogs Splash 1 Flyball Demo

Sunday Sept. 13th Gates Open Ultimate Air Dogs Splash 4 Flyball Demo

10:00 Pie Eating Model Search Opens 10:30 FastFetch Qualifier 11:00 Smart Pups

Rally O’My!

11:30 Ultimate Air Dogs Splash 2

Ultimate Air Dogs Splash 5

12:00 Helio Ball Drop $5 per chance

Helio Ball Drop $5 per chance

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Canine Team Work Pie Eating Tower of Temptation Nosework

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Ultimate Air Dogs Splash 3 Pie Eating Worcester County K9 Demo FastFetch Cup Invitation Only Model Search Closes

Ultimate Air Dogs Splash 6 Smart Pups

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What We Can Learn From Dogs by Jimmy Raven

TT

he domestic dog has walked alongside our species for tens of thousands of years. Bred and evolved from ancient wolves, these fourlegged balls of fur have earned the title of Man's Best Friend; and with respect to cat lovers, they have certainly more than earned it. From herding to hunting to simple companionship, dogs have served many purposes throughout our shared history. However, there is more to our relationship with them than that; or at least, there can be. Just as we teach them how to shake or sit or rollover or stay, there is much we can learn from them in turn. One such lesson is the tremendous loyalty dogs show their families. Dogs are pack animals, and for all intents and purposes, you are a part of this pack. The bond shared between a dog, and its family can be truly amazing. They protect you from harm, and as silly as it may be for a pooch to bark at the mailman, in a dog's world, it is merely how they defend their family against outsiders. And they are always there for you when you need them. Whether it's a shoulder to lean on after a bad day or a long cuddle when you're feeling lonely, your dog will always be happy to volunteer. In fact, and can sometimes seem like they can tell when you need them.

Sometimes, humans can get so caught up in ourselves that we forget how to show this sort of loyalty, care, and affection to those whom we love. Dogs, however, never do. Another lesson could be their undying positivity. Dogs love to play. Whether they be two weeks old or ten years old, a dog never feels the need to grow up as severely as we often do. No dog has ever lost touch with its inner child. His favorite toy as a puppy is still his favorite toy, and the only way that can change is if he finds a new favorite. Dogs can get excited over the tiniest things, letting themselves go in a way that we don't let ourselves. Dogs don't get too old to play. They don't dwell on the past or worry about the future. To them, every meal is the best they've ever eaten; every game is the best they've ever played. There are no bitter old dogs. They can also teach us how to love. Not only with the way we feel about them, but with the way they feel about us. To a dog, the sun and the moon revolve around you. You are the very center of its universe. They get excited every time they see you because any time you're gone is too long. And it doesn't matter how you look, what you wear, how much money you make, or how nice your car is; Delmarva Unleashed Summer 2020

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your dog loves you no matter what. A dog shows true, unconditional love in a way that many humans don't really know how to. And perhaps the most important lesson our dogs can teach us is how to feel about ourselves. A dog is happy just being a dog. Dogs have no insecurities the way we do. Dogs don't wish they had different bodies; dogs don't look at other dogs and wish they had their lives; dogs don't look at themselves and see only their flaws. They never let their past mistakes eat them up, and they never allow the idea of repeating these mistakes make them fear the future. They never feel unworthy of care and affection for reasons beyond their control the way we do. Dogs are happy being themselves, being who they are at this moment.

With all of this and more, it is clear that our furry friends can be more than just our companions. They can be role models. This is, of course, not to say that we should all live like dogs; we're two very different species. But there's undoubtedly a lot we can learn from them. They are, after all, Man's Best Friend.

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Wait! Come Back! by Amanda Abresch, B.S., ABCDT, APDT, CPDT-KA

MM

ost of us have been spending a lot more time at home in the past few months. Odds are, your dog has loved all the new time with you. There have likely been multiple walks a day, belly rubs on demand, joining in virtual meetings, and becoming the new “office” mascot- it’s been pretty good for most of our pups to get all this attention. It’s probably been nice to spend more time with your pooch, too! As we begin to move back toward regular work schedules (as in leaving home) and being able to go out to restaurants, movies, etc., our dogs will inevitably wonder why it had to 18

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change. As much as we tell them that we have to go to work to pay for all that dog food and all those toys, they just want another belly rub and another walk and for you to not leave them. The best thing you can do is to prepare your dog for this eventuality as soon as possible by practicing leaving them. How do you “practice leaving” you may wonder? You leave for a short period of time and then come back. This can be walking out to your car, the mailbox, running a quick errand, or putting your dog in her crate while you shower instead of letting her stick her


head through the curtain to drink the water (you can still do that sometimes, too). To help prevent your dog from developing separation issues when you do have to go back to work or are allowed to go out for a night with friends, you need to practice leaving, so it’s not a sudden shock when you are gone. First, a little bit of terminology since I just can’t help myself, most people want their dog to nap quietly, play with their own toys or watch the great outdoors through the window/ door while they are gone. They want their dog to not have accidents in the house while gone, stay safely contained in their crate/kennel/gated area, and definitely not jump out of a two-story window (I’ll come back to that one). Most people would consider anything outside of the behaviors I just listed as separation anxiety, and most people would be wrong. Sorry, it’s not that simple this time. The most common reason for any behavior outside of what we consider “normal” while we are gone is boredom. Dogs will chew up rugs out of both boredom and separation anxiety. Dogs will bark incessantly at neighbors and birds out of boredom, just to release some pent-up energy. Most of the time, a dog who is having accidents in the house, while you are gone, is just not as fully potty trained as you thought he was. A dog who does a little vocalizing but quiets down after 5-10 minutes may be bored or may have a milder aversion to being left alone- separation distress. It can look very similar to separation anxiety but will be less intense. It will typically be quieter,

shorter in duration, and will resolve more quickly. A dog who is pacing, drooling, vocalizing, has dilated pupils, is escaping confinement, possibly causing bodily harm in the process, and/or has not eaten any of the yummy treats you left as you walked out, probably does have the more severe separation anxiety. The cool thing is, we will work in basically the same way to help a dog with separation distress as we will a dog with separation anxiety. We just get to progress more quickly when the issue is less severe. Ok, back to the reason we are here- I want to help you help your dog be ok with that alone time so you can finally go out and enjoy being out without worrying about your dog. Lucky for you, I have a simple outline you can follow to keep everyone well-adjusted to returning to our typical activities outside of the house. (Now, remember that this is a sample outline and that your dog may not accomplish as much in a week as in the example, or your dog may progress more quickly.) Either way is acceptable- we want your dog to get better, and that is a process we cannot rush. Separation Issues Treatment Plan If at any time your dog looks anxious or gets more nervous, calmly remove triggers and take a step back in training. Week 1: Get dog acclimated and comfortable with a crate or being gated in a room/ section of the house. Give the best treats/toys in this area; consider


feeding here as long as eating is not an issue. 5-10 times per day, practice departure triggers (play w/keys, spray perfume, grab purse, put on coat, shoes, work clothes, etc.) be sure to do one at a time for now and try to avoid practicing within an hour of actual departure to keep stress low. Play the conditioning game- stuff a Kong or similar toy with treats/peanut butter, put the toy down for your dog to play with, introduce trigger (coat, shoes, keys, etc- but only one at a time). Remove trigger (put keys down, take off coat, shoes, etc). Take away toy- SAY NOTHING to your dog!! Repeat 3-5 times. Play this game 1-3 times throughout the day. Every other day, advance one step in leaving routine. The goal is that by the end of this week, you should be able to put down a stuffed toy, pick up keys, put on shoes, take one step towards the door then remove triggers and toys. Week 2: Randomly perform leaving ‘triggers,’ combining if possible (depending on the dog’s comfort level). Combine triggers and don’t leave- Put on a coat, grab keys and sit on the couch for a bit. Repeat 5-10 times per day. If your dog is paying less attention to you and the triggers by the end of this week, you can dial down the random stimuli and do more counterconditioning with the conditioning game (give a toy while you put on a coat, grab keys, etc.)

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If it’s time to progress with the conditioning game, add more steps to get closer to the door, by the end of the week, the goal is to turn the doorknob. Play this game up to 3 times daily. (toy to the dog, put on a coat, grab keys, put on shoes, walk to the door, turn the knob, turn around take off coat & shoes, place keys on the counter, take away the toy. Week 3: Keep up everything! Advancing as your dog allows- try placing a toy on the floor later in the sequence (put on a coat, give a toy, grab keys and shoes, go to the door). Try to get out the door this week, and alternate between being outside for 2-15 seconds each time. It is essential to change the time you are outside the door randomly, so your dog does not anticipate how long you are gone. You want to be outside for 2 seconds, 3 seconds, 2 seconds, 5 seconds, 3 seconds, 2 seconds 6 seconds, 5 seconds, 7 seconds, 2 seconds, etc...- do not go up (2-3-4-56-7-8-9-10) as your dog may anticipate and become stressed out because they know you are going to be gone longer each time. Repeat 3-5 times per session; sessions should be up to 5 times daily. If at any time your dog whines, barks, scratches at the door (if not crated), DO NOT say anything, and do not go back in until they stop. If you say anything or go inside, you are only reinforcing this behavior, and it will repeat itself.


Week 4: You can drop off the number of random triggers this week because you will be doing more extended sessions of the conditioning game. Since these sessions will be longer, you can also do them less frequently if you like- only 1-2 times per day and not every day. Try to build up your time outside the house this week to up to 1 minute. Remember to alternate the amount of time you are out randomly. If you can, try getting to your car, open the garage door if you must do this to leave.

got better. Dogs going through windows are up there with the most severe and most dangerous (at least to themselves) cases of separation anxiety. If you are worried about your dog and how they may respond to you going back to work, please contact a reward-based trainer who will use scientifically sound methods of desensitization and conditioning to help gradually acclimate your pup. Separation anxiety is never a quick fix, ever. Smart Pups is even offering virtual lessons to help out as many pups as possible!

Week 5: Keep up the good work! This week, try adding more triggers- start the car if you can drive out of the driveway and down the street by the end of this week- GREAT! At this point, you can try longer time gone- once you are up to 5 minutes, it gets much easier, and you can increase time gone by 5-10 minutes each time. Once your dog is comfortable with you driving down the street or down the block, try being gone longer- go to the grocery store for a quick trip, go to a gas station and fill up your tank, go to a friend’s house for a bitsomething relatively short. Oh yeah, a dog jumping out of a second-story window when it’s humans went to work. Yup, it’s true. The dog did it three times, needed sutures, then they had to alternate between a pet sitter and having the dog stay at a daycare/kennel until he

Sept. 12 & 13th, 2020

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Dogs and Contractors

Helping Your Pet Live in Harmony with Home Improvement Workers

HH

aving contractors in the house can be a big distraction, and not just for the humans in the family. Dogs and cats get confused, protective, and even scared when builders and other workers invade their space with noisy tools and unfamiliar voices. Worse, they can act out in harmful ways, from wetting the carpets to behaving aggressively. But there is hope for your pet and the contractors to co-exist in harmony. These five tips will help you maintain peace in the house while your home improvements are underway: Find a Safe Hangout for Your Pet Whether you're home with the contractors or not, it's a good idea to keep your pet separated from the workers for the benefit of all. Put your pet in a room far enough away from the work being done so she won't get in the way, ingest harmful materials and

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by Susie Yakowicz dust, or become injured. Crates keep dogs safe and secure and can be especially useful during disruptions. Keep a Routine Don't let the workers' schedule offset your pet's usual routine. If you typically leave the house during the day to go for a walk or to the park, continue to do so. Try to maintain the same eating schedule, too. Routines give pets confidence and an understanding of what to expect from you, which are essential to their well-being. Stick to the usual pattern of everyday life as best you. Take Advantage of the Quiet Times Having contractors at your home for eight or more hours straight can make for a long day, but everyone has to take a break at some point. Workers need to eat lunch, stretch


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and refresh, or run out for materials. You and your pet should use that time to de-stress and enjoy the silence. If you're away from home, your pet will still appreciate a break to nap in peace and quiet. Make It a Business Relationship Unless your contractors are good friends, keep the relationship between them and the pet businesslike. A quick greeting is fine, but spending time petting or playing keeps workers from working and allows pets to grow too comfortable with the hired help. Your pet should understand that while the contractor is not a danger, he's also not a new pal coming over to play.

Expect an Adjustment Period Getting used to new people in the house is a process for everyone. Your pet may not be crazy about the workers in the basement but will learn to tolerate and accept them with time. Plan for an adjustment period and be patient. Eventually, the strange sounds and voices will become familiar, and your dog or cat will perceive the activity as non-threatening and a new normal. Contractors working in the house can hinder a pet's comfy lifestyle, but that doesn't mean you have to cancel the job or send your pet away. Follow the above tips and make your home improvement project a comfortable and successful experience for all.

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Your Smart

Pup

with Amanda Abresch

Reader Submitted Questions

Q: We have a Miniature Yorkie, and we cannot get her to lay down when we ask! She’s eight months old and only lays down when she wants to, not when we ask. She is so sweet; otherwise, why is she so defiant? A: I see this a lot in small breedsespecially in miniature versions of already small breeds (which is precisely what a mini Yorkie is!) First of all, let’s try to get rid of the idea that she is having trouble with the ‘down’ cue because she is trying to be dominant or defiant. It is highly unlikely that she is trying to be in charge of anything. Most dogs have no desire to be the “alpha”, just as most people have no desire to be the President. Few of us want that type of responsibility. Second, not wanting to lay down actually has very little do to with being in charge. If she was trying to be dominant and was 26

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making her stand (no pun intended) by refusing to lay down, it would be an awfully petty thing to choose. In my experience, only humans are this petty, not dogs. If a dog was trying to take control, this would prove to be a massively ineffective method. Second, let’s look into why she is struggling. The most common reasons for any dog to struggle with this cue are because they are uneasy/anxious, they are confused about what their human is asking, or they simply do not want to settle down and risk missing out on any fun. In small breeds and in anxious dogs, they don’t like laying down because it makes them smaller, which may be too scary to do. Here are my basic instructions for teaching the “down”. Down Why: This can be an alternative behavior to the sit. Similar to the sit, a dog who is laying down is not jumping, running or otherwise causing mischief. This behavior is also


excellent for dogs who don’t like to settle down- we can teach them that it is ok to relax at times. What: -pocket/pouch full of treats -hungry dog -leash, attached to a collar or harness -quiet, comfortable area -reliable sit -patience! How: 1. Bait your hand with a treat 2. Ask your dog to sit. Reward with praise and petting, but do not click and treat- we aren’t going to treat until the end behavior, which is the ‘down’ 3. Bring your baited hand to the dog’s nose, allowing him/her to sniff the treat 4. Bring your hand straight down to the ground, almost between the dog’s front legs 5. Next, make a 90 degree turn with your baited hand and move it parallel to the floor away from your dog 6. Your dog should begin to lower his/her body to follow the treat, once they are laying on the ground, belly and rear end down, say “down,” then click and place the treat on the ground between the dog’s legs. 7. Release your dog from the behavior with your release cue Tips: Like everything else, your timing with the lure is important for your dog’s success. Be sure you move your baited hand at a pace that allows the dog to stay interested and follow successfully (too fast and they get lost, too slow they lose interest).

•If your dog pops back up to a sit or standing position, simply pull the baited hand away and give your no reward marker “nope”, “oops”, “uhoh” •If your dog just watches the treat and doesn’t want to lay down, try this: once you get the dog to sit and you bring your baited hand to the floor and push the treat towards the dog. This can sometimes have the effect of pushing the dog back on his/her rear a little more. Once your dog leans back a bit more in their hips, bring the baited hand out from the dog and towards yourself- with any luck, you will end up with a dog who is laying down! •Whenever you catch your dog laying down at home, reward it!! If you don’t have your clicker and treats handy, love and attention are a great reward too! (the more a behavior is reinforced, the more it will be offered). •If your dog is struggling with this, try a change of venue- let them up on the couch or bed (if that is a place they are permitted) and practice there. You can also practice on any other comfortable surface, like a plush rug. More: •As your dog improves with this behavior, you can ask them “down” from a standing position. The method for luring is the same, you simply omit the sit! •You can do “doggie push-ups” with your dog to practice the transition from sit to down and back up to the sit.. It’s a great game, and most dogs love it because it is very engaging and keeps them thinking!

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“Bruce”

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something under the ground, you will end up with holes all over your yard! She is barking to come inside because she misses the interaction with you, her family! To help make the best use of your yard, play out there with your pooch. Fetch, tug, work on teaching new tricks, games, and obedience cues are all great ideas for play in the yard. Once your dog is getting more mental stimulation, along with regular physical exercise, you should see more of that calm behavior you are seeking out. For the digging, here are some tips: Q: We got our yard fenced in so our dog could play out there and get some energy burned off, but now all she does is lay around, dig holes or bark to come back inside. She still has energy to burn, because she wants to run around when we let her in, and she wants attention from us. How can we get her tired? A: Oh, you have fallen for the classic pitfall: fencing in a yard will magically transform your dog into one who is well exercised. The problem with that fallacy is that dogs are social creatures and like interaction with their families, be it human, canine, or otherwise. Having a yard can provide a great place for your dog to play with you off-leash or relax in the sun or snow if you have a snow-loving breed. It sounds like your dog likes to play so much that she has decided to make her own game, digging up your yard. Digging is a natural instinct for dogs, and if they are bored and smell 30

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Digging Like most habits, dogs develop the digging habit for a variety of reasons: 1. It’s fun, and they are bored 2. They are a breed that was originally meant to hunt vermin, so digging is instinctive 3. They want to get to the other side of the fence 4. They need a cool spot to lay in 5. They see you digging in the garden and are mimicking you. 6. They have valuable things they need to bury! Luckily, like other habits, digging can be curtailed, and your yard can stop looking like swiss cheese! What to do: 1. Exercise your dog! If they do not have excess energy, they will not use it to dig up your yard! 2. Give your dog plenty of fun, interactive toys. Play with the toys with


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YourSmartPup.com your dog. Have a special toy that he/ she gets only when you are gone (and make it a really great one, like a kong with peanut butter and kibble) 3. Be sure your dog has plenty of shade outside on hot days. Consider a small kiddie pool or making a special shady spot just for them! 4. Do not let your dog see you digging in the garden. 5. Fill previously dug holes with rocks and some of your dog’s own poop. If it’s uncomfortable and smelly, it’s not so fun. You can also try placing chicken wire over previously dig holes; this will also make digging less fun. 6. When you catch your dog digging, say “no” in a low tone of voice, and redirect them to yourself and a fun toy. If they cannot be redirected, take 32

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your dog inside the house play fetch for a few moments to reward him/her for not digging. 7. If your dog is a breed or individual that likes to dig, make an appropriate digging area. Designate an area in the yard for your dog to dig and introduce him/her to it (kiddie sandboxes with covers work great for this). Show them that you like to dig in there, and they will soon follow suit. To make it more exciting, hide toys, or treats in the dirt, so they have something to find! 8. If you know your dog digs every time they are outside alone, don’t give then unsupervised time in the yard until you feel you can trust them.


Quarantine Weight Gain Happens to Our Pets Too!

by John Maniatty, VMD

TT

he “quarantine 15,” as it is referred to in people, is also being seen in pets. A common theme recently is that I have to tell clients that Koko or Zeus has gained weight since their last visit, which in some cases was just a few months ago. The quarantine has led to people staying in and put that in conjunction with a rainy winter and spring that has greatly hampered outdoor activity, and weight gain is inevitable. How can we overcome this? The first way to approach this problem is through diet. As a person whose own weight goes up and down like a yo-yo, I can tell you from personal experience that you cannot outwork your diet. The quality of food is part of it, but more is the calories. All good dog and cat foods will have a label on the bag saying they meet the Association of American Feed

Control Officials (AAFCO) standards for either puppy/kitten, adult, senior, or all life stages. Try to avoid all life stages if possible, because a puppy’s/ kitten’s nutritional demands differ from adults and, in some instances, can lead to health issues. The easiest way to help control weight is to calorie count. This requires looking at their main diet, treats, and if you add anything to their diet to entice them to eat or like me, shame on me, slip them something you are eating. There are calorie counts on human food, so it is easy to calculate how many calories you added, i.e., Velveeta American cheese 35 calories per slice, honey ham Hillshire farms 70 calories/ 2oz, Colby jack cheese cube Kraft 15 calories per cube...it adds up fast for them and for us. I find it easiest to plan my meals and do the same for them. One of the biggest Delmarva Unleashed Summer 2020

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Suggested exercise targets by breed.

Image from the People’s Dispensary for Sick Animals, the UK’s leading veterinary charity. Visit pdsa.org.uk to learn more.

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complaints I get is that the spouse/ significant other or another family member is feeding the pet on the side. What I tell the person to do is treat it like many of these home weight loss systems that package meals. Take their food and make daily bags. When the bag is empty, the pet is done for the day, similar to me when I have eaten all my calories for the day, and I am being good, I am done. Some people find in time that they have a handle of how much the pet should be fed and do not need to make daily bags, but some find it easier and more convenient to have. How do I calculate how much to feed my pet? As previously mentioned, different life stages have different caloric demands, and just like people, pets of the same age burn calories differently. I have seen sibling dogs and cats living in the same home being fed the same amount have quite different body conditions. Taking this into account, we must adjust our calorie count for the individual. To get a calorie count sheet for your dog or cat, just visit PreciousPawsAnimalHospital.com website and click on Dog Calorie Calculator or Cat Calorie Calculator. Put your pet’s weight in pounds, and it will calculate out your pet’s calorie count. This is just a guideline since every pet is different. Feed the calories for a period of time; usually, one month, see if the desired effect occurs, and adjust accordingly. For weight loss, we look for about 1% body weight per week. Once you reach the goal weight, then adjust calories for maintenance.

Now how can we get them to exercise? For dogs - take walks, play fetch in or out of the house. Use a flashlight or laser pointer; many love to chase the illumination around the room. Hiding their food in different spots in the house to make them hunt for it will help too. For cats, try a laser pointer or flashlight to chase, maybe a wand with feather or mouse, a fake mouse or ball. You can change their feeding area too, so have to hunt for it. I had one obese cat that would only exercise when treats were tossed down the hall, and he would run to get it. Always remember to gradually build up exercise as they can pull muscles or sprain/strain ligaments and tendons as we do. Remember, diet is the key, and exercise helps speed the process along. Good luck with the fur kids. I am starting back on my diet, well, maybe tomorrow?

Does Your Dog Have A Ticket?

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Getting Your Dog to Try New Things by Susie Yakowicz

II

n today's dog-friendly society, there's no shortage of canine activities to introduce to your pet. Getting a dog to try new things has plenty of perks, too, from boosting his confidence to giving you rewarding ways to bond and grow your friendship. Unfortunately, not all dogs are willing to dip their paws into the unfamiliar. In fact, some headstrong pups can't be coaxed into trying something new no matter how hard you seem to try. But don't be too quick to throw in the towel; all you may need is a change in approach. Try these six tips and help your dog step out of his comfort zone and into a whole new world of fun--for both of you. Know Your Dog's Strengths While most dogs can participate in any and every activity, certain breeds have known strengths that make them more apt to try one event over another. Research your dog's breed to discern his natural skills. You might also figure it out by taking a closer look at what he does well. If he's nimble and quick on his feet, for example, agility might be his calling. Knowing your dog's strengths can help him venture into the unknown and discover how much he likes it.

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Check Your Attitude People often associate their dog's stubbornness with a personality trait when, in fact, it's a response to his surroundings—or even you. Dogs take cues from their masters, so if you show signs of frustration or annoyance, he may respond with an unwillingness to budge. Assess your demeanor with your pet and make any necessary adjustments. An upbeat, positive attitude from you will transfer to your dog and make you both excited to explore new activities. Take Advantage of Dog Treats and Praise For most dogs, nothing's more motivating than treats and praise. Milk them for all their worth. Offering a food reward and kudos to your pet when he attempts and succeeds at something new will inspire him to try it again and again. Dogs associate treats and praise with good behavior and confirmation that they're doing what matters most: pleasing you. There are other forms of positive reinforcement that work, too, like offering dog toys, playtime, or a relaxing belly rub.

significant, bolder efforts. Trying new things comes in many sizes, but each one counts. Recognize every endeavor and keep your pet empowered to try more. Be the Boss You can give in to your pet's unyielding ways or be firm and take charge. If you want him to try something new, make sure he knows who's boss. You might even demonstrate by example. Want to teach your dog to swim? Go in the water first and show him it's safe and fun. Be sensitive to your pet's fears and inhibitions, but be commanding too. Whatever you do, avoid letting your pet manipulate you. Remember, you're the alpha in the pack. Getting your dog to try new things may be as simple as changing your approach. Give the above ideas a try and unleash your dog's daring spirit. The rewards will please you both.

Recognize the Small Feats Learning any new skill, even a small one, is a triumph for a dog. Please don't take the minor feats lightly—or your pet's willingness to attempt them. Getting your dog to fetch the newspaper for the first time or learn a new vocabulary word can help break stubborn or reticent behavior and be a building block to more

Sept. 12 & 13th, 2020


A Nose for Adventure with Seal, Bogey & Huckleberry

We all know how much I love eating out, but during these times of COVID-19, most places are closed. I figured it’s a good time to get out and about and see nature, so I visited the Chincoteague Island Nature Trail. Located on Hallie Whealton Smith Drive, the trail offers a 0.7 mile paved trails that is pet friendly. The more northern portion of the trail is natural, and extends almost another one-half mile through the forest and glade. It’s fun getting out to explore and smell all the good smells. Then when the trail is busy, I explore the town and go look at the boats and the water. Being out and about may not be as fun as eating out, but it is definitely helping my summer figure, so I’m ready for more fun exploring and boating! — Seal

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Bogey and Huckleberry back to share another one of our favorite pup furriendly places! One of the best parts about living in Ocean City is that we live at the beach! Unfortunately, we’re not allowed on the OC beach during the summer months. However, we’re lucky that Assateague Island National Seashore is just a short car ride away! Assateague Island National Seashore is a national park located approximately 8 miles from Ocean City. There is a fee to enter the park, but the price is well worth a PAWSOME time! The park is open year-round and offers a variety of activities for humans and pups alike! The coolest part? The giant furry natives roaming freely throughout the park… appawrently they are called horses according to the humans!


Is it your pup’s furst trip to the beach or furst time swimming? The bay is a great place to let your pup get a feel for the water without the intimidation of the waves. You can wade out in the water for what feels like furever, and it’s only a few feet deep. If you’re feeling adventuresome, stop by and see our furriends at Assateague Outfitters to rent a kayak, canoe, or paddleboard to do some exploring! They also have lots of yummy snacks – especially our favorite on a hot day, ice cream! If you’d rather be a beach bum, grab a spot on the beach and lounge! Assateague tends to be less crowded than some of the other beaches, so you’ll have plenty of space for you and your pups! Feel like spreading out even more? Try OSV (Over Sand Vehicle)! Our dad likes to surf fish, but we know we’re his best catch! We love this place so much sometimes we don’t want to leave! Lucky for us, sometimes we don’t have to, as there are pup furriendly campgrounds located on the Oceanside and Bayside. Set up shop, start a fire, and gaze at the stars. If you’re lucky, you might have a few big and small visitors – horses, Sika deer, and ghost crabs, to name a few! We could go on and on about this place! Whether you live nearby or are visiting the area on vacation, Assateague Island National Seashore is a must! There are so many things to do and try, but the most impawtent thing to remember is to have FUN with your pups! 39

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Fleas: Where Do They Come From? How Do I Get Rid of Them?

by John Maniatty, V.M.D.

F

leas are the most common parasite on the skin of companion animals. Most people don’t even know their pet has them until it is too late, and an infestation has occurred. Pets get them from going into contaminated environments, or we unknowingly carry them in ourselves, and they hop onto your pet. To understand how this happens, you have to know the lifecycle of the flea. Fleas have four life stages: Eggs, larvae, pupae, and adult. Eggs are laid on the host and drop off into the environment. The highest concentration tends to be where pets sleep or lay most often. The eggs hatch into the larvae stage, after two to twelve days. The larvae primarily feed on adult flea’s feces that have fallen off into the environment. They can also live on organic debris, such as skin dander or food particles. The larvae 40

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need moist, shady spots to live in, which prevents them from drying out. For this reason, they can likely be found under and inside furniture, in pet beds, and in human beds. The larvae go through three molting stages. This can be as short as nine days or last as long as 200 days. After the third molt, the larvae spin a cocoon, and in this cocoon, they go from the larvae to the adult stage. While in the cocoon, they are called pupae. The cocoon is a strong barrier that protects them from temperature changes, pesticides, and drowning. The adults can hatch in as short as seven days or live in the cocoon for up to one year. Hatching is stimulated by vibration, a human or an animal walking by; carbon dioxide, and/or heat/body temperature. After hatching, fleas need a “blood meal” within one to two weeks to survive. This is why some


people come back to open their condo in the spring and feel like they are being eaten alive. After the first blood meal, the female flea can start laying eggs after two days. They can lay up to 50 eggs per day and eat 15 times their body weight. The adults spend most of their life on the host and can live over 100 days on, but only 2-4 days off the host. The average lifespan of a flea is 6-24 months. The ideal environment for a flea is 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity 70 to 90 percent. If the temperature is less than 46 degrees for ten days, or 37 degrees for five days or ground temperature is over 95 degrees Fahrenheit, the flea eggs will die. Humidity, less than 50 percent, will kill flea larvae and eggs. In the home, dry heat in winter and air-con-

ditioning in the summer, help keep the humidity below 50% and lessen the burden in the home. Treating the home environment is as important as treating the pet. It is a fact that 95% of the fleas live in the environment, and only 5% on the pet. One of the easiest ways to treat the home is vacuuming. In clinical studies, vacuuming removes up to 30% of larvae and 60% of eggs. During an infestation, vacuuming should be done daily for two weeks, then 2 -3 times a week. When vacuuming, you must focus on areas where they are most present (i.e., under furniture, under cushions on furniture, by baseboards, in closets, and other dark areas in the home.)

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Placing a flea collar in the vacuum cleaner bag will help kill fleas sucked up during vacuuming. Vacuuming also lifts the pile in carpets, making it easier for premise sprays to penetrate and to come in contact with larvae and eggs in the carpet. I prefer the premise spray to a flea bomb because bombs spray upward and settle. They don't get into those areas where fleas hide. A quality premise spray should have an Insect Growth Regulator (IGR) in conjunction with an adulticide. IGR's, such as methoprene, nylar, and precor, inhibit the adults from reproducing, eggs hatching, and larvae from molting. If you don't feel comfortable with spraying insecticides yourself, a licensed exterminator can do a thorough job. Follow-up treatments should be based on the residual kill of the spray used and the remaining fleas you see in the environment or on your pet. Some topical applications on your pet will help clear the environment because they stay in the oils of the skin, and where they lay, the pet will leave an oily residue.

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In treating your pet, you can use either topical or oral medications or a combination of both. Topicals can be broken down into flea shampoos, powders, sprays, and spot-on. Shampoos do a good job for a quick kill but have a very limited residual kill. When making a product selection, there are some old adages that fit, (1) You get what you pay for; (2) If it is too good to be true, it probably is; (3) Just because they say it, does not make it fact. With this last one, many people will do testimonials over clinical testing, and there is often little success with most of these products. When doing clinical testing, the placebo helps a few people, even though it is not true medicine. Before choosing a treatment regimen for your pet, it is best to talk with your veterinarian. Using the wrong one can be harmful to your pet and a waste of money. Using treatment such as a preventative medication will most likely keep your pet happy and healthy.


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Bone Appetite

Ingredients 2 cups chopped frozen ripe cantaloupe 2-4 tbsp unsweetened yogurt Equipment Food processor or blender cookie sheet Freezer Freezer safe storage container Instructions Wash the outside of the cantaloupe thoroughly. Slice the melon in half and remove seeds.

Canine Cantaloupe Treats You can replace the cantaloupe here with many summertime fruits for your dog, including the following: Strawberries Kiwi Blueberries Pear Watermelon Pineapple Orange Mango Raspberries

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Slice each half into quarters and remove the fruit, then dice the fruit into bite-sized chunks. Place cut melon in the freezer on a cookie sheet. The fruit does not have to be solid frozen before blending, but allow at least 2 -4 hours. Move the frozen fruit to a blender and puree. Add 2 -4 tablespoons of unsweetened yogurt. Blend until combined, adding more yogurt to your desired consistency. Even older dogs with few teeth can enjoy a refreshing fruit puree, if it's softer in nature. Serving suggestions: top your dog’s food with a few tablespoons, or serve a small cup on the deck for a snack.


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Doggie Socials

Diesel - Westover

Reader Submitted Photos

Mali - Ocean View

Ava - Alexandria, VA

Smokey & Zoe Harpers Ferry, WVA

Bernadette - Salisbury

TD - Hartley

Would your dog like to be a part of Doggie Socials? Submit your quality photos to creative@grandlivingmag. com or simply post it on our social media. You can find us on Facebook and Instagram.


Charro Bella & Bella Grace - Snowhill Linen - Bishopville

Deja & Harley - Lake of the Ozarks Raven - Ocean City

Daisey - White Marsh

Benny- Delmar

Ellie - Salisbury


Killian - Salisbury

Shy - Felton, DE 48

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Einstein - Ocean Pines


The Canine Crew of Layfield Veterinary Pocomoke, MD

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Rescues

Baywater Animal Rescue Baywateranimalrescue.org 410-228-3090 Brandywine Valley SPCA Georgetown bvspca.org 302-856-6361 Caroline County Humane Society carolinehumane.org 410-820-1600 Chesapeake Cats & Dogs chesapeakecatsanddogs.org CVC New Beginnings Vizsla Rescue cvcweb.org/rescue DASH (Dachshund & Small Hound Rescue) DashRescue.net Delaware Humane Association delawarehumane.org Wilmington 302-571-0111 Rehoboth Beach 302-200-7159 Dogs Deserve Better-Eastern Shore dogsdeservebetteresva.org/ Dogs Deserve Better- Blue Ridge dogsdeservebetterblueridge.org/ Dogs Deserve Better- Smithfield dogsdeservebetter.org GRREAT (Golden Retriever) GRREAT.org Hill Hounds Animal Rescue hillhounds.org 410-714-3677

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Homeward Bound Schnauzer Res. Hbschnauzerrescue.com Kindness Matters Rescue shoshino@aol.com K-9 Rescue of the Eastern Shore K9RescueES.org Labs4Rescue Labs4Rescue.com Lu’s Labs Labrador Retriever Rescue luslabs.org 703-888-2612 MaPaw Siberian Husky Rescue sibes.com 610-369-0055 Mid-Atlantic Great Dane Rescue League magdrl.org Mid Atlantic IG Rescue midatlanticiggyresuce.com Mid Atlantic Jack Rescue majr.org 908-963-3465 One More Dog onedogmore.org 302-632-6680 Operation Paws for Homes ophrescue.org Playa Animal Rescue (Mexico) playanimalrescue.org Renee’s Rescues reneesrescues.org


Sgt. Peppers Friends (Aruba) sgtpeppersfriends.com Somerset County Dog Control 410-651-0986 Sussex County Animal/Whimsical Animal Rescue DelawareRescue.com Talbot Humane talbothumane.org 410-822-0107One

Wags & Wishes wagsandwishes.org 410-476-8629 Wicomico Humane wicomicohumane.org 410-749-7603 Worcester Cty Animal Control 410-632-1340 Worcester Humane worcestercountyhumanesociety.com 410-213-0146

The Sato Project (Puerto Rico) thesatoproject.org

Worcester County Animal Control has great adoptable dogs ...and offers low cost spay/neuter! Dogs $100 Cats $50 Microchips $25

Open Saturdays too!

410-632-1340 Delmarva Unleashed Summer 2020

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Canine Perspective 52

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“Let’s watch, Dad’s Got This.”

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Pooch Palooza Dog Festival

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Profile for Grand Living Magazine

Delmarva Unleashed Summer 2020  

Delmarva's Dog Magazine

Delmarva Unleashed Summer 2020  

Delmarva's Dog Magazine