Globetrottin
THE BUCKET LIST ISSUE
BY GOWAY
OUR EUROPEAN BUCKET LIST
MONGOLIA: ASIA’S DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH
TAKING THE LONG WAY TO ANTARCTICA
STORIES
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Antarctica is a strikingly beautiful landscape of ice and water.
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Finding My Scenic Serenity in Tasmania: Australia’s southernmost island state offers the kind of peace you could only dream of.
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An African Safari Adventure with Impact: African Bush Camps’ Impact Safaris deliver bucket-list safari moments.
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Taking the Long Way to Antarctica: After COVID-19 derails his dream trip to Antarctica, Don Forster finally reaches the world’s southernmost continent.
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Must Revisit Places: Why a European bucket list isn’t easily emptied.
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The Sky’s the Limit at Ecuador’s Mashpi Lodge: This wildlife sanctuary abounds with species and lush rainforest to explore.
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My Dual Pilgrimages in Japan & Spain: Hiking Spain’s Camino de Santiago and Japan’s Kumano Kodo reveals profound spiritual bonds.
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Take a Local Bite out of Melbourne: Embark on a culinary journey through the diverse flavours of Australia’s Tastemaker City.
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Asia’s Diamond in the Rough: Mongolia is so much more than the homeland of Genghis Khan.
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Koalas, Dolphins & Floral Charms in Tropical Brisbane: Stay a while in this growing metropolis on your way through North Queensland.
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5 Things to Do (Only in Hawai’i): The island state goes far beyond the cliches.
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What I Carried: Hiking Towards Everest at Yak Speed: Cory Payton hikes the Himalayas equipped with nothing but a backpack and a dream.
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Papua New Guinea: The Pacific’s Ultimate Adventure: Off the beaten path takes on a whole new meaning in the Pacific’s last frontier.
ON THE COVER
Viewing Gdańsk, Poland from the air showcases the iconically vibrant colours of the city. Story, page 32. 4
34 The Church of the Mother of God on the Lake has the iconic steeple in the middle of Lake Bled.
Head to Maria Island, Tasmania to discover a landscape abounding with wombats.
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INSIDER’S GUIDE 9 10 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 62 64
Editor’s Letter Trending: Umbria, Italy, new hotels worldwide Visual Travel: Buenos Aires, Argentina Ask an Expert: Europe in Winter Off the Beaten Path: Ninh Binh, Vietnam The Nightcap: The Gisakura Lemon Leaf Cocktail The Splurge: Wakaya Private Island Resort & Spa, Fiji Recommended: Timeshifter, the Jet Lag App Tested: Compressible Packing Cubes 1 Destination 2 Ways: Iceland: Summer or Winter Book Ahead: Greece in Fall Travel Like A Globetrotter: The Lasting Bonds of Small Group Travel The Archive: Globetrotting Turns 20
Back Cover: St. Mary’s Basilica looms over the picturesque main square of Kraków, Poland.
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Globetrottin
Nº32
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Mitchell Fawcett ART DIRECTOR: Gareth Adamson MANAGING EDITOR: Aren Bergstrom CREATIVE PRODUCTION: Jaclyn Wilson PARTNERSHIPS: Lori Petteplace
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Globetrotting is published by Goway Travel Web: www.goway.com Email: info@goway.com Social: @GowayTravel Phone: 800-387-8850
Thank you to our following travel partners for their support in this volume of Globetrotting: Visit Brisbane, Visit Victoria, Tourism Australia, Hawai’i Tourism, APT Tours
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GUEST CONTRIBUTORS
BREANNA WILSON
CRAI BOWER
Breanna Wilson is a travel writer and adventurer who specializes in gear, overlanding, and all things Mongolia, where she also runs small group tours and women-only retreats. You can follow Breanna’s daily life in Mongolia, and overlanding adventures behind the wheel of her custom-built Land Cruiser 78 Troopy, on Instagram at @breannajwilson, and on her website MeanwhileinMongolia.com.
Crai Bower writes and shoots long-form articles like “Wildlife Spotting in British Columbia” (Condé Nast Traveler). Other recent work covers horseback riding under Mt. Cotopaxi (AARP), natural golf course design (Garden & Gun), and wilderness resorts (Bloomberg Pursuits). Crai received a 2022 Lowell Thomas Award for Excellence in Travel Journalism. Follow him on Instagram @travelcrais.
DANA REBMANN
KATIE NANTON
Dana Rebmann writes about travel, nature, wine, and anything that makes folks smile for AFAR, Garden & Gun, Shondaland, Hemispheres, AARP, and more. With NBC News for 10 years before becoming a freelance writer, she’s also the travel correspondent for KRON4 television station in San Francisco. Dana loves adventures that get her outside, especially near or in water. Catch up with her travels on Instagram @danarebmann.
Katie Nanton is a Vancouver-based writer and editor specializing in travel, food, and design. Over the past 20 years she has written hundreds of articles, snapped dozens of published photos, and authored one book. Her travel story highlights include whitewater rafting the Ganges in India, fishing for piranhas in Peru, skydiving in France, and spotting polar bears in Manitoba. Follow her on Instagram @katienanton. 7
EDITOR’S LETTER
Dear Globetrotter As we usher in 2024, I’m reminded that New Year’s resolutions have always felt boring to me. A bucket list, on the other hand, is a bolder form of goal setting— much more my style. It forces you to push your boundaries, dream big, and think long-term. I’d wager that most of our readers have bucket lists. I’d also bet that travel gets an outsized share of them. So it was hardly a gamble that the Globetrotting Bucket List Issue would resonate with our readers. In a world that beckons you to explore, you answer with enriching travel experiences that break free from the routine. In these pages you will find tales of courageous journeys, encounters with unique cultures, and wonders of the
world. Whether it’s embarking on a once-in-a-lifetime safari (page 24), conquering the heights of the Himalayas (page 57), or discovering new species in the rainforest (page 38), this volume of Globetrotting is a celebration of the extraordinary experiences that define a lifetime of travel. Here’s to a year of thrilling journeys and unforgettable experiences. May you find as much delight in adding items to your bucket list as you do checking them off. Yours truly,
Mitchell Fawcett Editor-in-Chief 9
TRENDING
Umbria, Italy Central Italy’s hidden gem. Why is it trending? Umbria offers many of the same phenomenal qualities as nearby Tuscany, including delicious wine, medieval hilltop towns, charming villages, and unique cuisine—but with more budget-friendly prices and fewer tourists. And travellers are starting to catch on!
What are the destination highlights?
The 14th-century Orvieto Cathedral is indicative of the gorgeous architecture of Umbria.
Spectacular views from the mountain highways. The gorgeous Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, which memorializes the patron saint of Italy. Medieval towns like Spoleto, Bevagna, Spello, and Gubbio. Excellent shopping in the university town of Perugia. The House of Perugina’s Baci chocolate shop and museum. Swimming, boating, and hiking at charming Lake Trasimeno.
What kind of things can you do there? Meander through the lush valleys and indulge in delicious food and wine. Discover the renowned grape varietals from the Montefalco region. Enjoy the Umbrian olive oil, truffles, wild boar, and pork. Purchase handcrafted leather, olive oil, and wool clothing from local artisan shops boasting more affordable prices than in the larger Italian cities.
When’s the best time to visit? April to October, when you can enjoy a warm Mediterranean climate, but there are notable festivals and events throughout the year, even into the mild autumn and winter seasons.
How can you get there? Take a high-speed train from Rome or rent a car and explore the region at your own pace. Driving involves winding mountain roads to reach the hilltop towns, but the stunning views make it all worthwhile. 10
The winding streets of Umbria, as seen in Assisi here, are made for afternoon strolls.
New & Noteworthy Get the latest on fascinating new places to stay around the world.
A New $60 Million Hot Springs & Spa in New Zealand The Wai Ariki Hot Springs and Spa is now open, nestled by the captivating Lake Rotorua in New Zealand’s North Island. The sprawling property combines the region’s healing geothermal waters with the centuries-old legacy of Ngāti Whakaue culture and healing practices.
A Mountaintop Retreat in Northern Vietnam Travellers looking for rest and relaxation in the heart of nature will find it at Avana Retreat. This stunning property features 36 bungalows, suites, and villas across 15 hectares in the mountain region of Mai Chau in Northern Vietnam. Guests can enjoy private dining alongside a hidden waterfall, unwind with wellness treatments in the Orchid Spa, and explore the cascading hillside on jeep adventures and village tours.
A State-of-the-Art Hotel in Ecuador’s Capital The brand-new Go Quito Hotel was constructed using sustainable building practices and features locallyinspired designs in spacious rooms. It has an on-site bakery, sauna, and rooftop restaurant, as well as convenient in-room amenities such as oversized safes and USB charging ports. Located in Quito’s New Town, it’s close to many of the city’s best restaurants, including the ultra-trendy Somos Restaurante, while still merely a short taxi away from the Old Town.
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VISUAL TRAVEL
Buenos Aires’ Little Path of Colour Follow the stream of colour that leads you through Caminito in La Boca, the colourful immigrant neighbourhood of Buenos Aires. Allow its bright colours and faded textures to transport you to the city’s timeless streets animated by tango, wine, and good cheer.
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London, England
ASK AN EXPERT
Europe in Winter Curious about the highlights of Europe during the colder months? Melissa Moses, one of Goway’s Destination Specialists, has you covered as she shares her insider knowledge. What’s your favourite place to visit? London as the streets are lined with Christmas lights and there’s an amazing energy in the city.
When’s the best time to visit? Between early December and February, when you get snow and festive cheer.
What’s a great place to eat? Any of the local eateries in the Jewish Quarter in Kraków, which offer hearty comfort food, such as the best schnitzel and perogies I’ve ever had.
What surprised you most? The energy during the winter is electric. It’s also a great time to enjoy a more intimate experience in countries such as Italy and the UK.
What’s a unique way to explore? In many major cities, you can bundle up under a warm blanket and see major sights via a horse-drawn carriage through the old cobblestoned streets.
What’s a common misconception? People think Europe isn’t a good winter destination. In fact, it’s as inviting as in summer. The Christmas lights and markets provide a magical atmosphere, and it’s warmer than many parts of North America.
What’s a hidden gem that more people should know about? Cobh, Ireland, which is an adorable, picture-perfect island town. What’s a famous landmark that travellers absolutely should not miss? Vatnajökull Glacier in Iceland, which is Europe’s largest glacier by volume and has amazing ice caves to explore.
What’s a great place to stay? Bagni di Pisa Palace & Thermal Spa in Tuscany. It’s a great getaway if you’re looking for milder weather. What’s the best way to get around? Nothing beats a train ride through the Alps, which provides amazing views. 13
OFF THE BEATEN PATH
Ninh Binh, Vietnam An enchanted landscape of limestone mountains and rice paddies known as Halong Bay on Land.
WHERE IS IT? Ninh Binh province lies just to the south of the Vietnamese capital Hanoi. The province’s capital, also known as Ninh Binh, and the town of Tam Coc are the main tourist centres.
HOW DO YOU GET THERE? Ninh Binh is flush with rice paddies, which take advantage of the region’s waterways.
Drive two hours south from Hanoi. It’s best to visit from February to April or October to November, when the weather is most comfortable, as it can get very hot in the summer months. Goway can easily add one ortwo nights in Ninh Binh to most Vietnamese vacations.
WHY SHOULD YOU GO? Limestone mountains rise alongside rice paddies. Rivers wind their way around farming villages. The sky is blue, the earth is green, and the entire landscape is magical. You can cycle alongside the rice paddies or go birdwatching in Van Long Nature Reserve, Vietnam’s largest wetlands. A boat ride in UNESCO-listed Trang An is the region’s most iconic experience. Sit back in a small rowboat as your oarsman uses their feet to paddle you down rivers and alongside cascading paddies and towering karsts. 14
The oarsmen of Ninh Binh iconically row using their feet.
THE NIGHTCAP
The Gisaruka Lemon Leaf Cocktail African tea leaves take centre stage.
High in the mountains of Rwanda’s Nyungwe National Park are sprawling tea plantations. In the middle of one sits the 5-star One&Only Nyungwe House. They infuse
gin with their own freshly picked tea leaves, combine them with lemons grown fresh in their Chef’s Garden, and shake them together for this refreshing libation. 15
Wakaya Private Island Resort & Spa, Fiji
Wakaya Private Island Resort & Spa offers an elevated allinclusive experience on its 3,200 private acres. Guests can scuba dive in search of hawksbill turtles in coral gardens, relax with shiatsu massages and herbal scrubs in the Breeze Spa, or tee up for nine holes of golf mere minutes from their suite.
Barefoot luxury in the heart of the South Pacific.
Accommodations include 10 free-standing waterfront suites and Fijian bures, which
THE SPLURGE
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can lodge a maximum of 32 guests, ensuring a private experience. For a truly exclusive stay, guests can enjoy the newly-renovated Vale’O, or “House in the Clouds,” a 12,000 square-foot villa on a private 16-acre estate with three bedrooms, a private pool with waterfall, tennis court, personal chef, and on-call driver. It offers a royal experience at a resort that’s renowned for redefining sustainable relaxation.
RECOMMENDED
Timeshifter, the Jet Lag App Shake the side effects of travel with personalized advice.
Whether it’s greeting you at the start of your journey or welcoming you home, jet lag is the least enjoyable travel companion. The Timeshifter app promises to do away with it, using neurosciencebased technology to create personalized recommendations that are unique to your biology and your journey. The app considers
factors such as your sleep pattern, flight schedule, and destination time zone, providing a strategy to help sync your internal clock with your new surroundings. You’ll receive real-time advice on when to seek or avoid light exposure, when to nap, and even when to indulge in caffeine. This is a gamechanger for globetrotters. 17
TESTED
Compressible Packing Cubes Taking organization to new heights.
What do luggage and mattresses have in common? Both industries have been disrupted by innovation led by direct-toconsumer brands. We wholeheartedly welcome new and better ways of packing, especially for longer journeys that require more thoughtful preparation. Packing cubes promise to bring calm to the inner chaos of suitcases. Even a therapist would agree that this is one time you should compartmentalize your baggage. We tested several brands to find the winning solution, and the 18
Compressible Packing Cubes from Monos came out on top. The six-piece set has an ideal range of sizes—the smallest is perfect for toiletries or loose accessories, and the largest can easily hold side-by-side stacks of sweaters. The compression zippers are a space-saving standout feature. Where Monos really wins is in quality and durability—the sturdy build will undoubtedly keep up with even the most active globetrotter. $110 USD / $135 CAD from Monos.com
1 DESTINATION 2 WAYS
Iceland: Summer or Winter Whether you’re visiting during the Midnight Sun in summer or hunting for the Northern Lights in winter, Iceland is a thrilling destination.
Kirkjufell
Jökulsárlón
Summer
Winter
Drive 45 minutes outside Akureyri to the horseshoe waterfall of Goðafoss.
Drive to the 196 ft (60 m) high drop waterfall of Skógafoss in southern Iceland.
Snorkel between the continental tectonic plates at Silfra in Þingvellir National Park.
Hike across the glacier of Sólheimajökull in southern Iceland.
Explore the dormant magma chamber of Þríhnúkagígur volcano south of Reykjavik.
Spelunk in an ice cave under Vatnajökull, Europe’s second-largest icecap.
Snap a late night picture of iconic Kirkjufell in Snæfellsnes under the Midnight Sun.
Watch the Northern Lights dance across the clear sky from the shores of Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. &
Cap off your trip with a soak in one of the country’s many thermal pools, including the Blue Lagoon, Sky Lagoon, or Mývatn Nature Baths. 19
The Acropolis, Athens, Greece
BOOK AHEAD
Greece in Fall One of Europe’s hottest destinations is only growing more popular.
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With approximately 6,000 islands, ancient ruins, and festive culture, Greece makes for an appealing and popular destination in the fall. It’s the top destination for many European travellers and the fastest-growing European hotspot for Americans. Santorini continues to be one of the world’s leading honeymoon destinations. The winter months see ferry and hotel
closures on the Greek Islands. And come April 2024, Greece will also limit the number of daily visitors to the Acropolis in an effort to reduce over tourism. You need to book well in advance if you want to takefull advantage of this stunning European destination, especially in the fall.
APT by Goway
Award-Winning Tours Delivered by Industry-Leading Travel Experts APT is a leading operator of luxury coach tours and once-in-a-lifetime rail journeys across Australia & New Zealand. Goway is the exclusive provider of APT’s extensive selection of award-winning tours. APT by Goway is your way to experience the magical landscapes, friendly faces, and unforgettable connections that await you in Australia & New Zealand.
Explore Luxury Escorted Vacations 21
Tasmania Finding My Scenic Serenity in
Tasmania, Australia’s southernmost island state, offers the sort of laid-back peace you could only dream of.
Despite their reputations, Tasmanian devils are adorable, affectionate animals.
WORDS GARETH ADAMSON 22
Cradle Mountain, Tasmania.
If you think that Tasmania is like the Tasmanian devil from Looney Tunes, think again. The island may be wild, but it’s far from the chaotic nature of this famous cartoon character known for his whirlwinds and snarls. Tasmania is calm, quiet, a place of overwhelming serenity. I learned this intimately on a recent trip through Tasmania. Upon arrival in Hobart you immediately notice the quiet charm of Tasmania’s largest port city. Fishing boats dock along the harbour. Quaint bars and fish and chip restaurants line the boardwalk. While walking with our guide Sylvie Schoedler, owner of Premier Travel Tasmania and long-time partner of Goway,, she mentions Tasmania has the cleanest air quality in the world and you can sense that right here in town. There’s not much hustle and bustle in Hobart. Salamanca Market, established in 1972, is probably the busiest spot in the city. It opens every Saturday at 8:30 a.m. to cater to locals and tourists who want to sample the local spirits, check out the woodwork stalls, or purchase a handcrafted cowhide leather bag. In Tasmania, there’s a lot of history hiding in plain sight. At Port Arthur and the Cascades Female Factory, we learn about the island’s convict history and how much of the preserved historical architecture exists due to convict labour. The island’s remoteness allowed for its use as a penal colony. That remoteness is also what makes its abundance of wildlife possible. It’s home to many species that are extinct on Australia’s mainland, such as the Tasmanian devil (or Tassie devil as they say in Oz), platypus, and the adorable-yet-lesser-known eastern quoll. Quolls are smaller than Tasmanian devils, but just as carnivorous. They come in two colourations: tan and black, both with unique spotted patterns. As for Tassie devils, I soon learn that they’re not the aggressive creatures their name suggests. In actuality, their name comes from the screechy sounds they make. We learn from Greg Irons, owner of Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary, that they suffer from
a cancerous face tumour that is severely impacting the wild population. My heart melts watching one of the devils playing with the cuff of Greg’s hoodie, tugging and rolling like a little puppy. I was so taken by these special creatures that I have since sponsored two Tassie devils, one from Bonorong, and another from Devils@Cradle Sanctuary in Cradle Mountain. Luckily, people in Tasmania have a passion for wildlife preservation. They want to protect these adorable marsupials, which are everywhere. As Greg mentions, “If you don’t have a pouch, you don’t fit in” in Australia. Later, we explore Maria Island by ferry and immediately notice the picturesque and well-maintained landscape, the grass trimmed like a putting green. Sylvie tells us this is due to the wombats. These teddy bear-looking creatures are abundant on the island. We were even lucky enough to spot a couple of babies sticking very close to mum. If you like the outdoors, it’s hard not to love Tasmania. The landscape is made for hiking.. Maria Island offers many trails, which vary according to difficulty and length. But it’s not the only showstopper you can explore on foot. We hike up the pink granite Mount Amos in Freycinet National Park to Wineglass Bay Lookout, where you enjoy just about the best views imaginable. The 45-minute hike offers a breathtaking view of the bay, where you can sit and relax to take in the majesty of your cardio-filled reward. My favourite stop on our journey is Cradle Mountain due to its chillier temperature and majestic green hills. I loved the crisp air and snowfall. A simple stroll outside my cabin even gave me an up close and personal glimpse of a wallaby munching on some grass. The scenic streams and beautiful mountains are a sight to behold. Tasmania offers the kind of peace and tranquility that large cities, no matter how nice, simply cannot compare to. It’s where I found the serenity I didn’t know I needed.
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An African Safari Adventure with Impact African Bush Camps’ Impact Safaris deliver all the bucket-list safari moments with an extra added layer of meaning WORDS KATIE NANTON
PHOTOGRAPHY AFRICAN BUSH CAMPS
It’s a common occurence to spot African elephants on an Impact Safari with African Bush Camps.
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Time stands still on safari—and when it does, it’s magic. It happens when you watch a herd of giraffes lumbering along, their long necks moving in slow motion. Or when you spot your first leopard lounging in an acacia tree. And it’s there when you see the flash of a lion’s eyes on a nighttime game drive, its regal silhouette etched against the horizon. “For many guests, being on safari is a very spiritual experience,” says Koinonia Baloyi, Communications & Fundraising Officer for African Bush Camps Foundation (ABCF), an arm of African Bush Camps (ABC), which offers bespoke adventures at 18 camps throughout Zimbabwe, Botswana, and Zambia. “It’s something you can’t really explain. You’re sitting in a vehicle, it’s quiet, you can hear the birds, and you are just watching an elephant eat. There’s a point where you’re just like, ‘How am I here in this one particular moment?’ It’s almost unnatural.” When booking a safari anywhere within Africa’s tapestry of 54 countries, you’re bound to experience plenty of wildlife moments that follow you home in your heart. “But, there’s so much to Africa, that the best way to really experience it is being outside of the national parks,” says Baloyi. That’s where most of the people are, after all, and that’s where ABC’s Impact Safaris come in. Baloyi crafted three unique 9-day itineraries that allow travellers to dive deeper into local community and conservation issues and solutions. Each trip is completely bespoke, bookable by groups large or small, and delivers a holistic experience where the impact is felt both ways. Plus, donation amounts to ABCF are built into every group booking. The Impact Safari collection is right in line with the core giving-back ethos of ABC, which was founded, alongside its foundation, by professional Zimbabwean guide Beks Ndlovu back in 2006. Still heavily involved today, Beks’ vision has always been to deepen ABC’s impact through tourism, not expand its footprint.
Exploring Education
The first Impact Safari experience, the Learner Development Safari, is a nine-day adventure that begins in Botswana’s Khwai Leadwood camp, moves on to Thorntree River Lodge in Zambia, and ends in Zimbabwe at Somalisa Expeditions camp in elephant-rich Hwange National Park. A great option for families travelling with kids, it incorporates a visit to Botswana’s Khwai Preschool, where guests volunteer with the nutrition program, then time to visit or play netball or soccer with the little ones. “Our schools are not museums, you know,” says Baloyi, explaining how visits are planned around times that do not disrupt students. “This is a live learning environment.”
A Helping Hand
Next comes the Conservation Safari, more heavily focused in Zimbabwe, and perfect for animal enthusiasts. “Zimbabwe is where the crux of our human-wildlife conflict issues are popping up,” says Baloyi. “We begin in Mana Pools National Park, which went from being so rich in game, to massive poaching, to now, where we are 25
Linyanti Bush Camp offers mokoro (canoe) safaris through Botswana’s northern wetlands.
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Learner Development Safaris offer the opportunity to volunteer at local schools in Botswana, Zambia, and Zimbabwe.
starting to see the return of wildlife.” Seasoned guides share conservation methods used by local anti-poaching units, such as rhino tracking and how to recover snares. Next, guests pitch in to help build a community boma enclosure that protects livestock from lion attacks, which in turn reduces humanwildlife conflict. Getting their hands dirty working in the heat and dust for a practical cause is an unforgettable experience. Last year, Baloyi joined a boma-building group and one guest’s comments resonated. They said, ‘You know, I thought I’d come out to Africa, see some wildlife, and then do other trips [around the world]. But now I want to come back to do this again.’ For me, that was a pivotal turning point of realizing how the work we do as a foundation intersects with the safari experience—it really goes a long way.”
Furthering Female Empowerment
In 2021, ABCF kicked off their Female Guides Program, with a goal of developing 25 female guides by 2025. In a culture where guides are predominantly male, the program has inspired many and gained great momentum. To further support this, the Women Empowerment Safari gives guests a front-row seat to
what female empowerment looks like in small, underdeveloped communities, starting in Botswana, heading to Zambia, then wrapping up in Zimbabwe. Guests have the opportunity to be led by the female guides in training, visit local communities to see basket-weaving and gardening, then volunteer at a local school serving up meals. With this safari, a $5,000 donation is built into the group booking fee, which goes directly toward the licensing and training of a new female guide. “This experience is great for a girls’ trip,” says Baloyi, adding that there are, of course, bucket-list moments that don’t involve roughing it: a scenic helicopter tour in Botswana, complete with a champagne drop, as well as spa treatments back at camp. Baloyi loves to see guests’ preconceptions of a trip completely challenged and, in turn, how it enriches their adventure. “Their expectation leaving home was that they’re going to be in a jeep, driving around seeing wildlife. But here they are standing in a remote community, it’s got no Wi-Fi, no electricity, it’s hot. And they are building a boma. You see their realization that this meant so much to the entire experience, and it changes the entire dynamic of a safari.” Talk about a bucket list adventure for the books. 27
Taking the Way to An In 2020, Don Forster was en route to Antarctica when COVID-19 hit. This is the story of his journey that led him there and his way back to fulfilling a childhood dream. WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY DON FORSTER
Paradise Bay in the Antarctic Peninsula offers stunning views in the southern summer.
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Long ntarctica
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Like most penguins, gentoo parents share the load when caring for and feeding their chicks.
In my youth, I dreamed of visiting Antarctica. This was when the options were old Russian research vessels and required selling a kidney or your first born just to pay for the trip. I came close a few times, but ultimately my kidneys were more important and kids were the last thing from my mind. Times changed, but the dream of Antarctica burned inside me all those years. In 2020, I finally had my chance. My wife, Jana, and the younger two of my three sons, Ethan and Hayden, had our voyage booked. (My oldest Sael couldn’t join.) Ethan and I left early to explore Patagonia. We planned to all meet up in Ushuaia, Argentina to finally embark on this great adventure together. It was so close. And so far. Two days out from sailing to Antarctica, our voyage was preemptively sunk. Having spent the previous two weeks off the grid, Ethan and I were holed up in a cafe in El Calafate when we got a call. Jana and Hayden were at the airport check-in desk and news had just hit: COVID-19 was now a pandemic and the government was closing the borders. We had an impossible choice to make and ended up making the only correct one. Ethan and I scrambled to get seats on the last flight out of Patagonia, then back home to Canada. The dream that was so close had slipped away. We pushed the trip to the end of 2021, but Omicron hit and it was postponed again. 30
The Forster family celebrating the achievement of walking on the Antarctic Peninsula.
Finally in early 2023, almost exactly three years later, Ethan, Jana, and I boarded a ship for that fateful voyage. (Sael and Hayden couldn’t make it because of their studies.) I soon learned that there truly is no other place on earth quite like Antarctica. This may seem like an obvious statement, but it’s true. It’s majestic, captivating, so beautifully harsh, so powerfully gentle. The power of the ocean is palpable. What was a mild crossing of the Drake Passage quickly turned to an otherworldly storm that saw us not able to land on the peninsula for two days. The wind and waves slowly pushed an iceberg the size of a city across our path like it was a mere ice cube. You would think seeing nothing but snow and ice would become boring, but mother nature paints such a continuous, unique canvas that runs from port to starboard, from horizon to horizon. Every iceberg is different, all uniquely sculpted from walls of cascading snow. The landscape bursts with wildlife despite how remote it is. There are penguin beyond count: Magellanic, chinstrap, rockhopper, gentoo. They waddle alongside and sometimes over elephant seals bathing in the Antarctic summer sun or up to you and your camera, as curious about you as you are about them. From the safety of a kayak, we paddled up to sleeping whales— who shutdown half their brain when sleeping —as well as leopard seals basking on the ice flows before sliding into the water to
hunt down penguins who, in turn, pop up from out of nowhere onto dry land to escape their hunters. We witnessed glass seas, where the kayaks cut silently through the water and surrounding surface ice, as seals followed us and swam in our wake. The silence was deafening, only punctured by the almost rhythmic sound of glaciers calving around us. I have witnessed the far south’s impact on the senses and its almost spiritual power, which draws people to the end of the world. Back in 2020 in that cafe in El Calafate, Ethan and I couldn’t fathom not heeding Antarctica’s call. In our own little bubble, before that term took on a different meaning, it seemed almost cruel. Today, after all I’ve experienced, that moment of despair is easily put in perspective. I ultimately knew then, as I knew when I was a little kid dreaming of Antarctica, that I would get there. It was only a matter of patience and time. When the time finally came, my only regret was that Sael and Hayden could not join us. But like their dad, they too are moved by the spirit of travel, fuelled by their inner flames which will hopefully lead them, one day, to take that southern journey that will never be forgotten.
While social animals, penguins are sometimes known to stray from the rookery and stand solitary watch on Antarctica’s rocky shores.
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Must Revisit Places:
Why a European Bucket List Isn’t Easily Emptied WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY CRAI BOWER
I admit my European bucket list shifts like swishing water in the pail I used to take from the well for the horses on my grandparents’ farm. But such a constantly changing list is natural when so many diverse travel opportunities lie just over the North Pole. I typically learn about somewhere, say Nuuksio National Park, a wilderness adjacent to Helsinki, and begin obsessing about visiting to the detriment of previously primary travel goals like Verbier. Then, poof! I find myself in Finland, and another year passes without skiing in Switzerland. Everyone possesses different filters when forming their life list of travel destinations. (Sharing the same filters should top any dating or prenup agreements.) Wildlife, wilderness, gardens, and literary history tend to top my rubric. Quite often, somewhere I didn’t expect will catch my eye too, like Stockholm’s Fotografiska, The Contemporary Museum of Photography, Art & Culture. Accessing Fotografiska via the SL public boat (I love excellent mass transit) added to its appeal.
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upon weathered wine crates poised on distressed pistachio-coloured tables beneath a Banksy-like mural spread across white-tiled walls. After sitting long enough to establish we’re in no hurry ever to leave, we stepped onto the cobblestone to wander the boutiques and galleries of Gamla Stan, then strode to Södermalm to seek vintage stores and curio shops before boarding the boat to Fotografiska. After viewing the extraordinary exhibit Homage to Humanity by Jimmy Nelson, we boarded the boat to Royal Djurgården for our requisite botanical immersion. Several other Scandinavian countries not initially positioned high in my bucket now also reside in my “must revisit” container. Though technically not part of Scandinavia, Iceland represents another Nordic country that I am far from exhausting. My discontent has nothing to do with Iceland, a go-to recommendation when seasoned traveller friends query where they should travel to be “blown away” by nature.
Stockholm exemplifies another subgroup on the life list, a destination that may not have previously occupied top-billing but now resides, having visited briefly, on the “must revisit” list. My partner and I love building itineraries in new places. Stockholm demonstrates how we navigate a city.
I’ve enjoyed my two times in Reykjavik but failed to travel far outside the capital and explore this outrageous geography. My negligence is still more egregious because I’m a waterfallobsessive person, seeking cascades with my tripod in hand wherever I go.
Our perfect day usually begins at a blissful bakery like Fabrique. Located in the Gamla Stan historic district a few serpentine blocks from our hotel, Fabrique’s blend of outstanding croissants and pastries combine brilliantly with an idyllic aesthetic. Imagine wireframe baskets hanging over well-used baking sheets filled with kanelbullar (Swedish cinnamon buns) laid
I spent two hours shooting slow exposures of Seljalandsfoss but have yet to visit Dettifoss, Gullfoss, Svartifoss, or any other breathtaking cataracts. I’ve also missed the Northern Lights, quaint fishing villages, and sod-covered cottages, among many other “Only in Iceland” elements. (I’d also love to hang out with a troll.)
Cliffs of Moher, Ireland.
My bucket list comes in all three states of matter: solid, liquid, and gas. Often these states come in the form of seasons. Hot air ballooning through the upper Saane Valley from Château-d’Œx in Switzerland filled my “Did I just do that?” bucket. I’m determined to return to the canton of Vaud in winter to ski the runs carved across the hillside forests I observed from the wicker basket, tracks that appeared to go forever. I’ve never skied in Europe, where the ski runs famously link one village to another. Add another drop to the bucket. Links form another element of my periodic bucket list, specifically the famous golf links of Ireland. And it isn’t only the whimsical fairways and maddening greens. Blame it on the faerie dust, but the pub life, natural beauty, literary history, and people of the Emerald Isle have me hooked. Ireland’s placement on the meniscus of my bucket list was established years before I started travelling for a living, when James Joyce became my favourite author after I read A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man at McQuaid Jesuit High School. I try to read Portrait annually and, for the past 30 years, I’ve read Joyce’s “The Dead” every Christmas Eve. Visiting Dublin on June 16, aka Bloomsday, the day Joyce set his epic novel Ulysses, was a must for me. I left my straw hat at home but spent the day touring key sites from the novel and watching actors perform monologues from the text, including Molly Bloom’s, um, breathtaking soliloquy that concludes the masterpiece. Yes, indeed, yes. I also recite The Birch Grove, written by the Nobel Laureate poet Seamus Heaney, on the first of every month. I knew I had
to make a pilgrimage to Northern Ireland when the Seamus Heaney HomePlace opened. The HomePlace is located in Bellaghy just one mile from the simple gravesite of the poet, who died in 2013. You don’t have to be an English major to appreciate the HomePlace, a set of galleries where recordings of the late Heaney reading his work convey you through his lifetime and the Irish landscape. I was equally moved by the recently renovated Titanic Experience, a brilliantly constructed tribute to Belfast shipyards and the infamous ship. Few exhibitions appeal broadly across generations, but this experience promises to capture every family member’s interest, from the theme park-style ride “through” the ship’s construction to the presentation of passenger names, whereby the survivors and victims are separated by a simple line depicting the water’s horizon. Like Iceland, the Irish coastline has few peers with hundreds of miles of walking trails, a palette of verdant hues, and stunning edifices. I’ve returned to the Cliffs of Moher repeatedly, most recently to tread with founder Pat Sweeney on his Doolin Cliff Walk. The 2 mi (3.2 km) path skirts the 702 ft (213 m) precipice from Doolin to Guerin’s Path at The Visitor Centre. That day began and concluded at Pat O’Connor’s Pub in Doolin, though I could have been in Dingle, Dublin, or Galway. After a night of the craic and a bucket’s worth of Guinness, Ireland still sits squarely, if a wee wobbly, atop my life list of places to visit and visit again. But it may not stay this way for long. My bucket is always being refilled. Europe’s endless opportunities constantly add to the list, no matter how one’s interests shift as life’s journey unfolds. 33
Other Bucket Lists Worth the Carry Europe offers something for every traveller, whether the visitor is a history buff, foodie, outdoor enthusiast, or admirer of great culture. Here’s a look at several “bucket list” experiences from Goway’s Destination Specialists.
Lake Bled, Slovenia Brigitta Fuller
More than a mile long and almost a mile wide, Lake Bled is most famous for its acre-sized island, where visitors climb 99 steps to make wishes when ringing a bell inside the Assumption of Mary Church. The romantic voyage on the two-oared Pletna boat is half the fun.
Blue Danube River Cruise Kathy Day
Like a Mozart symphony, culture flows forth on a Blue Danube River Cruise. Guests explore Vienna via all the senses, reflect in an 11thcentury Benedictine abbey, and relax in Bratislava’s Bohemian café scene. Buda and Pest await voyagers with Hungarian wine, goulash, and Turkish baths. 34
Snorkelling the Silfra Fissure, Iceland Stephannie Phillips
Imagine swimming between the North American and Eurasian continents. Now, go do it. The Silfra Fissure is one of many geological Icelandic marvels that are hard to believe until you snorkel above a lava field in a submarine volcanic canyon.
The Parnidis Dune, Lithuania Edward Paulionis
Stretching almost 150 ft (45 m) in the air, the Parnidis Dune summit contains a sundial and an obelisk of recent construction. The delicate ecosystem includes a rare, forested section, small wildflower meadows, and the bird-rich Curonian Lagoon.
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Glass Igloo at Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort, Finland Lisa Guiotto
You’ll never feel the same once you immerse yourself in Finnish Sauna Culture. Watching the Northern Lights crackle above you from your private glass igloo is equally transformative. You’ll feel like you’re at the top of the world because you practically are.
The Colourful Street Scenes of Gdańsk, Poland Madiha Kamran
Mariacka links St. Mary’s Basilica and the Motława River to form one of the most beautiful streetscapes in Europe. Long a maritime shipping hub, Gdańsk remains a colourful port city filled with streetside terraces, gorgeous galleries, and historic architecture. 36
Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany Kobe Chen
Prepare to enter a wellillustrated history book when visiting Rothenburg ob der Tauber, among Europe’sfinest examples of medieval architecture. The Rathaus (town hall), first constructed in 1240, is one of several buildings in this fairy-tale village that date back to the Middle Ages.
Bran Castle, Romania Lisa Dachuk
The history of Dracula’s Castle is as mesmerizing as visitors find stepping into the medieval fortress is chilling. Though author Bram Stoker never visited Transylvania, it is said he named his infamous protagonist after Vlad III, “The Impaler,” a member of Ordo Draconum. 37
Mashpi Lodge, Ecuador.
The Sky’s the Limit at Ecuador’s Mashpi Lodge This wildlife sanctuary abounds with species and lush rainforest to explore. WORDS DANA REBMANN
PHOTOGRAPHY MASHPI LODGE
Questioning the predicament I’d gotten myself into, I’ll admit, there was what seemed like a not-so-brief moment when I couldn’t quite bring my feet to turn the pedals. I took a deep breath and as the Sky Bike slowly rolled from solid footing to dangling nearly 200 ft (60 m) above Ecuador’s Chocó-Andean Cloud Forest, the magic that accompanies a stay at Mashpi Lodge shifted into high gear. Silent and remarkably easy to operate, the two-seat tandem Sky Bike rolls along a nearly 700-ft (213 m) cable stretching across a gorge and above a river. There’s no need for binoculars here; suspended in the treetops, I was face-to-face with a view of the forest I didn’t realize humans could enjoy in such a peaceful way. My journey to Mashpi Lodge began in Quito, the capital of Ecuador. About a three hour’s drive, a stay here is easy to combine with a trip to the Galápagos Islands. A former logging spot turned private reserve, more than 2,000 species, including 400-plus species of birds, either frequent or call the area home. 38
The biological diversity in this wildlife sanctuary is as striking as the rainforest vista. More than just a hotel, in addition to its 24 guestrooms, Mashpi Lodge boasts a dedicated laboratory and a team of biologists, researchers, and naturalists. Guests staying help fund research and conservation efforts; since the property opened a bit more than a decade ago, 18 new species have been discovered in the more than 7,100-acre stretch of tropical forest. One of the species identified, the Mashpi Glass Frog, measures just 3/4 of an inch (about 2 cm) and features a clear underbelly that exposes its brightly-coloured vital organs to the naked eye. The fragrant flower of the endemic Magnolia mashpi caught the attention of scientists following sightings from the lodge’s open-air Dragonfly gondola. A favourite of guests, the cable car ride glides through treetops along a 1.2 mile (2 km) cable system allowing for wildlife and vegetation spotting, and stunning views.
“Let’s leave the taxi here, alright?” said our guide Anderson, as he assured my husband and I we’d reached a great spot to disembark the Dragonfly and do some hiking. Hesitant to get off our ride through the clouds, it took just a few steps to realize this practically untouched landscape had much to marvel at from the forest floor. Lush foliage was dotted with everything from orchids and bromeliads to snakes and spiders, and a chorus of rainforest residents including howler monkeys and toucans kept us alert and entertained. Thanks to the rain gear and boots the hotel provides to guests, we weren’t deterred when a steady rain began to fall. And as it turned out, getting wet was in the cards; showers dissipated just as the trail revealed a gushing waterfall and swimming hole too inviting to walk away from without making a splash. Happily drenched, I welcomed the hot shower waiting in my room and the fact that enjoying a bit of downtime didn’t require leaving the rainforest behind. All guestrooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows, so even when you’re in bed you’re either staring at the jungle or dreaming about it. The Sky Bike lets you explore the jungle canopy nearly 200 ft (60 m) above the forest floor.
Elephant Rock in AlUla is named for the distinctive rock arch that looks like an elephant’s nose. Mashpi Lodge is located in a remote wilderness reserve around three hours from Quito.
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My Dual Pilgrimages in
Japan & Spain
Despite existing half a world apart, Spain’s Camino de Santiago and Japan’s Kumano Kodo share a profound spiritual bond.
Seiganto-ji Temple lies before Nachi Falls on the Kumano Kudo.
WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY MOIRA SMITH
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You’ll find many modern pilgrims hiking along the Kumano Kodo.
Moira taking a break from hiking at Finisterre, which literally means the end of the world.
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On pilgrimage, you learn how close the past and present are. Millions of other travellers have trod the same path you’re currently walking on. Passing through forests and over fields that have remained unchanged for millennia, you realize it’s the same soil, the same spiritual pull, that unites you and all those people that have come before you. I’ve been fortunate to have had two unique pilgrimage experiences in two very different parts of the world. In Spain, I hiked from Mondonedo to Santiago de Compostela, a segment of the iconic Camino de Santiago, which attracts hundreds of thousands of pilgrims each year. In Japan, I did a shorter hike between two of the three Kumano-sanzan shrines of the Kumano Kodo on the Kii Peninsula to the south of Osaka. Many years ago, I read Paulo Coelho’s The Pilgrimage and later Shirley Maclaine’s The Camino. After reading these books, I became fascinated with the Camino and knew that one day I would walk it. Last Christmas, my sister Sandra told me she was hiking the Camino del Norte over a five-week period in June, so I had my chance. I joined her for 108 mi (174 km) of her 532 mi (857 km) journey. A few months later, I was invited to Japan and hiked between Kumano Hongu Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha via the Daimon-zaka, an ancient stone staircase lined with centuries-old trees. I only got a taste of both hikes, but experiencing them changed me. Both trails share an incredible sense of history and sacred power. They boast abundant natural settings, but the experiences go far beyond witnessing the aesthetic beauty of these places. The millions of pilgrims who have hiked these trails for more than 1,000 years have instilled them with a power that’s hard to describe. Despite the differences between Kumano, which is a syncretic religion blending Shinto and Buddhist practices, and Roman Catholicism, both trails demonstrate the spiritual power of these nations. Spain and Japan are defined by their religious traditions, but it’s not only the devout who hike these trails. Many go to embark on a journey of self-discovery and spiritual renewal. In truth, the reason to walk can be as prosaic as wanting to be healthy and lose weight and as profound as coming closer to the spiritual powers that define your world. Regardless of why you walk, when you walk, you do so to find yourself, to unplug, to meet people, and to go on an adventure across the land and into your soul. You might have lost someone or overcome a physical challenge or transitioned to a new part of life. Whatever the reason, the walk changes you. And everyone walks these trails. In Spain, I met two Spanish sisters and their families walking with their toddler daughters. One of the husbands carried his little girl in a large harness contraption on his back, while the other husband had a solid pram to support his daughter. In Japan, there were modern-day pilgrims in their hiking boots and t-shirts, but also two women who wore Heian-era clothing with many layers and wooden shoes. There were people of all different ages, nationalities, physicalities. They all walked, just as pilgrims who came before them had walked for over 1,000 years. A pilgrimage is a journey that recreates the past to inspire us about the present. It helps us to be more mindful, embrace the moment fully, and realize that we don’t need to carry so much stuff. Rather, it liberates us to carry only what we need, which clarifies what truly matters in life. On pilgrimage, it’s about where you end up: not only the place you arrive at, but the person you arrive as. 42
Parts of the Camino are surprisingly lush.
Boimorto in Galacia, Spain is dotted with gorgoeus abandoned buildings covered in vines.
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Degraves St. in Melbourne is bursting with culinary options to sample.
Take a Local Bite Out of Melbourne Embark on a culinary journey through the diverse flavours of Australia’s Tastemaker City. WORDS CHRISTIAN BAINES
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A nation rich with over 60,000 years of Indigenous history as well as diverse immigrant cultures, the land downunder tempts your palate with cuisine from around the world. Its vino is also world-renowned, from big, bold reds to delicate sparkling wines. Yet no city shapes Australia’s taste like Melbourne. Long known for its culture, art, sport, music, fashion, and good living, food and drink rides high on the list with over 3,500 restaurants across the city. Melbourne’s culture is all about contradictions. Sure, the locals like to keep it classy, but they don’t make a big deal out of it. No need to dress up for a plate of “smashed avo” on toast or spicy shakshuka, best enjoyed in a laneway with a strong flat white and plenty of street art. Afterwards, hop on one of the city centre’s free trams to Queen Victoria Market and take an Ultimate Foodie Tour to taste some innovative fresh creations from local and international suppliers.
The Yarra Valley boasts over 80 cellar doors serving award-winning wines.
The land you’re on is of the Wurundjeri Woi-wurrung and Bunurong Boon Wurrung Peoples of Eastern Kulin and the traditional name for Melbourne is Naarm. An Aboriginal Heritage Walk within the Royal Botanic Gardens is an excellent way to explore that history. Nearby at Fed Square, next to the traditional meeting grounds of Birrarung Marr, is the Koorie Heritage Trust, which houses Australia’s largest collection of Koorie art and artifacts. Its neighbouring restaurant, Big Esso by Mabu Mabu, celebrates contemporary Indigenous culture and cuisine and is a must add to your dining list. Reset your palate with a stroll through Carlton Gardens to Melbourne Museum. The largest museum in the Southern Hemisphere, it includes a wonderful gallery, Bunjilaka Aboriginal Cultural Centre, which explores the history of Victoria’s First Nations. After the Melbourne Museum, stop at one of Lygon Street’s classic Italian restaurants or split a rooftop platter with a cheeky glass of wine and city views at Johnny’s Green Room. Try something from Victoria’s Yarra Valley, famous for its pinot noir, plus sparkling wines from Domaine Chandon. Yarra Valley is Australia’s premiere indulgent wine region, where you can fall in love with wine or try some of the world’s best gin at over 80 cellar doors, distilleries, and award-winning restaurants. Explore bohemian Fitzroy or swing by the Rose Street Artists’ Market for a one-of-a-kind souvenir. Feeling competitive? On a weekend between March and September, you can try to score tickets to an AFL game. Australia’s own “footy” is a Melbourne obsession to rival food, and no match day is complete without nibbling a hot meat pie 45
You’re never far from the Yarra River in Melbourne.
smothered in tomato sauce (they don’t call it ketchup in Australia). Catch an eyeful of the beautiful Princess Theatre and Victoria’s parliament on your way to rooftop institution Madame Brussels. Named for 19th-century brothel owner Caroline Hodgson, the bar lures guests today with cocktails, sangria, finger food, and the kind of good-natured sass that would make the Madame proud. 46
Mildly lubricated, it’s time for dinner in Chinatown. Good budget options abound, but if you’re feeling fancy, Flower Drum’s tasting menu is pure eastern decadence. For something in between, slurp on delicious soup-filled Shao-long bao at Hutong. Nighttime Melbourne is your oyster. Take the tram down to Federation Square for nighttime Yarra River views or a show
at The Arts Centre, or slip down to The Butterfly Club for cocktails in a quirky performing arts space. If you still have room after that last drink (or need to fortify against morning regret), Stalactites on Lonsdale is a Melbourne institution, serving up fast, flavoursome Greek souvlaki until late. Don’t stay out too late though. There’s a whole new menu waiting tomorrow.
THE SUPER SEA WOLF SKIN DIVER Inspired by the original 1953 Sea Wolf Diver that put Zodiac on the map, built for the modern adventurer.
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Erdene Zuu Khiid Monastery dates back to 1648.
Asia’s Diamond in the Rough Forget everything you think you know about Mongolia. The Land of Eternal Blue Sky is so much more than the homeland of Genghis Khan. WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY BREANNA WILSON
April of this year I did something I had long been dreaming of doing—I drove to Mongolia from Tbilisi, the Republic of Georgia’s beloved capital city. I had been staying there for the previous five months, as I usually did when temperatures in Mongolia began making their way down to their -22°F (-30°C) average. Taking advantage of this time, I began preparing the vehicle I’d be driving through Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, and Russia to reach Mongolia in. A Land Cruiser 78 Troop Carrier would be my constant companion as I navigated my way across some of the world’s most feared areas, solo and unsupported. Years of driving across Mongolia in much the same way had taught me a lot of the confidence and skills I would need during this drive. Having explored the remotest corners of the country, getting stuck, changing flat tires, and just generally relying on instinctual navigation would help me survive this drive. It was back in 2018 when I first came to Mongolia as a tourist, much like everyone else. At the time, I had no idea the country would 48
change my life in such a profound way. Back then, much like it still is today, a lack of infrastructure combined with a population that lived off their herds and the land, immediately had me yearning for more. People couldn’t really still live this way, could they? They did. And I had to know more. I was determined to learn everything I could. To live and breathe like the nomads. To sleep like the nomads. To train to hunt with golden eagles at the base of the Altai Mountains like the Kazakh nomads. To embody, fully and without prejudice, the traditions that had kept a community of people alive for thousands of years. I travelled to the northern part of the country, twice, to ride reindeer and embed myself with the Tsaatan tribe, the last tribe in the world to herd and ride reindeer. I Learned how to make reindeer milk bread, transport firewood on reindeer, and eat my weight in yak yogurt all along the way.
Even today, horses remain central to Mongolian culture.
Breanna posing on her custombuilt Land Cruiser 78 Troopy.
It was in the roughness of these experiences and the vulnerability of the locals sharing their lives with me where I would find myself most at home.
a mostly dead, but beautiful, script. I was happy to discover they hold regular exhibitions and plan to add a ceramics studio to make use of the valley’s natural clay over the winter.
But those experiences aren’t all that Mongolia has to offer. As much as I have loved, and still love, the rough and rugged Mongolia, the country is slowly but surely evolving. And so are my interests here.
Between those experiences there was music. Music festivals like PlayTime, Spirit of Gobi, Kharkhorum Visual Art & Music Festival, Cipy Top, and Ulaanbaatar Jazz Week all vying for my attention back in Ulaanbaatar.
Interests include Mongolia’s history with polo, which date back to the 13th century and the days of the world’s most notorious Khan. By checking into the Genghis Khan Polo Club, I was able to watch as world-class polo players competed on what I would imagine is one of the most picturesque polo fields in the world, right in the Orkhon Valley.
Even the Tenger World Shaman Festival caught me by surprise. Not often will you find 300 shamans from Mongolia and around the world in one place.
There were also the calligraphy sessions at the Arts & Mongolian Calligraphy Center, Erdenesiin Khuree, in Kharkhorin. The centre hopes to revive the art and use of Mongolian calligraphy,
That’s the beauty of Mongolia, and what keeps me from leaving. You can choose your own adventure, and your own way of experiencing everything Asia’s diamond in the rough has to offer.
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Koalas, Dolphins & Floral Charms in Tropical Brisbane Stay a while in this growing metropolis on your way through North Queensland. WORDS GARETH ADAMSON
The Story Bridge spans 2,549 ft (777 m) over the Brisbane River.
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Bougainvillea adorned pathways in South Bank, Brisbane. Koalas’ diets consist mainly of eucalyptus leaves. Inset: Gareth poses alongside a new friend at Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary.
Brisbane is a popular gateway to Australia and especially when travelling through to Northern Queensland. However, don’t underestimate this urban centre on Australia’s East Coast. Take your time before heading up to the Great Barrier Reef and other wonders of the tropical north. Brisbane is the fastest growing city in the country and the growth has created a bustling, vibrant atmosphere. It’s blessed with a beautifully warm climate, and you’ll get an immediate sense of being in a tropical oasis walking right downtown. There are elegant winding pathways of pink bougainvillea and exquisite purple blossoms adorning the jacaranda trees scattered around the coastal city. Head to Rainforest Walk in the South Bank Parklands to get a good sense of the city’s floral culture. It houses a variety of tropical species including monstera and many kinds of palms. You can also linger in the South Bank to enjoy the busy nightlife with a variety of fantastic restaurants and shops to enjoy. If you’re looking for a slower pace and some relaxation, head outside the city centre. Tangalooma Island Resort is a great option. Only an hour from the city via ferry, it feels like you’ve been transported to the Yucatan Peninsula with its turquoise waters and spotless beaches. There’s a lot to do so be sure to stay at least a couple days. You can get your adrenaline kick with ATV rides and a helicopter adventure, or engage with the
wildlife with kookaburra sightings and live feedings. A definite highlight is being able to feed wild bottlenose dolphins each evening at sunset. You can scuba dive among shipwrecks off the island. June through Octoberis a great time to likely spot migrating humpback whales. It’s truly a beautiful spot to unwind and relax, offering a nice counterpoint to the bustling city. Another hot spot to check out is the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. It’s just 20 minutes outside Brisbane by car and home to a wide variety of wildlife, with over 70 species of native Australian animals, including Tasmanian devils and echidnas. Of course, the highlights are the cute, fuzzy koalas, who are in no shortage at this spacious sanctuary. You even have the opportunity to encounter a koala for a photo op. It’s an adorable experience, and I was surprised that the texture of a koala is similar to a cozy wool sweater. The Australia Zoo on the Sunshine Coast is also a popular stop, and rightfully so, but Lone Pine offers an intimate experience, which makes for a special moment on a trip to Australia. Brisbane’s fast pace of growth also means there’s always more to see and explore every time you visit. On your next journey through Queensland, give yourself a few days in Brisbane to appreciate its charm. It’s an easy place to stay for a while. 51
A group explores Lower Antelope Canyon in Navajo Tribal Park, Arizona.
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5 Things To Do (Only in Hawai‘i) Think you know Hawai‘i? The island state goes far beyond the cliches. WORDS COLIN RUSCH
The Hōlei Sea Arch is a dramatic 90-ft (27 m) high arch on the southern coast of the Island of Hawai’i.
Brittany exploring the iconic Tomb of Lihyan, son of Kuza, in the Nabataean settlement of Hegra.
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Kualoa Ranch on O’ahu is famous for its role in the Jurassic Park movies.
1. Get to Know the Real Hawai‘i From a rich history and culture to its tradition of Aloha hospitality, there’s a lot of Hawai‘i to explore beyond the tourist resorts. Live like a local, shop local, consume local, and stay on the beaten path. Mālama means to take care, to care for, or to give back. Experience the Hawaiian Islands while supporting the communities, living their culture firsthand. Experience the uniqueness of each one of the islands by taking a multi-island trip. Go on a storytelling journey through the hula (much more than a dance), and learn about North America’s last surviving monarchy.
2. Catch the Big Waves Sure, you can surf elsewhere, but the waves that hit O‘ahu’s North Shore every winter lure elite surfers and crowds eager to watch them in action. Summer is the best time for beginners to learn.
3. Walk on Pacific Lava Flows Maunaloa and Kilauea are the big stars of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, where astonishing beauty
and nature’s fury come together. It’s thrilling to get so close to the lava flows, but safety first! Pay attention to local updates, keep your plans flexible, and consider a guided tour to safely see the best of the park.
4. Try Real Poke Sorry Instagrammers, but real Hawaiian poke (pohkeh) isn’t that photogenic, looking more like a cold fish curry than a mosaic of fresh flavours and colours. The good news? It’s even more delicious than you’ve heard, particularly with its traditional protein, ahi tuna. Learn about other traditional Hawaiian dishes and fill your mouth with exquisite local flavours.
5. Visit Jurassic Park Also known as Kualoa Ranch, “Jurassic Valley” is a spectacular corner of O‘ahu. Home to the film’s famous stampede scenes, Kualoa offers tours designed to show off its natural wonders as well as filming sites. Nā Pali Coast on Kaua‘i also showed up in the 1997 sequel, The Lost World, proving that Hawai‘i is one of Hollywood’s favourite destinations. 55
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Yaks are some of the only animals capable of carrying heavy loads through the high altitudes of Namche Bazaar.
What I Carried: Hiking Towards Everest at Yak Speed A hike towards the world’s highest peak proves the old adage that the journey is as memorable as the destination. WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY CORY PAYTON We often make our dreams come true in tiny steps. I learned this on my recent hike towards Everest.
of the other. There’s only one trail and it leads to Everest, right? Oh, the joys of being clueless.
The dream began with a question: “Did you know that Nepal has the most dangerous airport in the world?” Those words are like a siren call to any bucket list traveller. That airport is Lukla, Nepal and it’s where just about every traveller who summits (or attempts to reach) the peak begins their journey. We had no guide, no firm plans, just backpacks, and a desire to go on. So we went.
The hike to Everest Base Camp is 10 days long. The small trail we were on was maybe 3 ft (1 m) wide and the sole freeway for all the villages ahead. There were kids scampering off to school in front of us, giggling at how overpacked we were. There were sherpas carrying goods for the tiny outposts further ahead. There was even one man carrying an entire refrigerator on his back. No kidding.
Once you’ve survived the landing at Lukla, where the runway seems 90-degrees steep and lives up to the reputation, the cold air hits you, you pop on your backpack, and put one foot in front
We admired the streams trickling through amazing wildflowers and discovered tiny monasteries on hillsides. The hours passed and the packs became heavier and we began to feel the aches. 57
What the YouTube videos don’t tell you is that the journey is not just one upwards ascent to a beautiful peak. You go up to peaks, down to rivers, again and again. As you pass fellow hikers, you hear stories of the legendary day three awaiting you: “Oh, you have the Namche Hill tomorrow. You can do it.” Like every trekker, we started to realize what was actually in our packs and what we could leave behind. You also start to think about your life and what is actually needed for happiness. On this mighty trail, you realize what you can let go of and that what you achieve is all you need. We soon learned that the Namche Hill was no hill at all, but rather a six-hour, straight up, leg burning, back aching lesson in “What have I done?” It separates those who want to be there from those who don’t. You give up or you find the energy and peace you never knew you had in that next step. There’s encouragement on all fronts, from the sherpas carrying full bales of hay to the Everest pros who have “peaked” five times patting you on the back and sharing Band-Aids for your feet. At the end of this day is Namche Bazaar, the largest village in the area, where you regroup, re-energize, and head towards base camp. As we trekked higher the mules disappeared and it was yaks from there on up who could handle the altitude. I enjoyed those yaks ahead of me as they gave me a yak speed mentality: one step ahead is all you need. Life and the trail is not a race. By day six, we had only tiny glimpses of Everest through the foggy mist that permeates the region. We went to bed worrying we were going to miss out. The next day, I glimpsed the first rays of dawn and it was like Christmas morning. I wiped the moisture from the window at 5am and realized it was the clearest day we’d had so far. We both peered into the distance with awe and it was right there: Everest! It was incredible to have ventured beyond what we thought we could accomplish, and then to be rewarded with those majestic peaks all around. We heard the monks’ call to prayer as we took in the grandeur of the highest peak on the planet. We saw the actual vapor trail that Everest creates as the winds blow past. It’s hard to describe the feeling of accomplishment. We turned to each other on that morning in Tengboche and thought, we’re good! Fulfilled and content, we decided to head back down that Himalayan highway. We returned to Lukla, now the ones with the stories, knowing the secrets of the Namcha Hill and keeping it to ourselves with that sense of pride we had seen on day one. We had done it. As in life’s journey, it all started with one foot in front of the other…at yak speed.
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Mount Everest looms over the Himalayan valley.
Lukla Airport in Nepal is known as the most dangerous airport in the world.
Cory (left) and his husband spin their first prayer wheel on their first day in the Himalayas.
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Papua New Guinea: The Pacific’s Ultimate Adventure “Off the beaten path” takes on a whole new meaning in the Pacific’s last frontier.
WORDS CHRISTIAN BAINES
If the phrase “frontier destination” gets your attention, it’s time to take a closer look at Papua New Guinea. This little-visited country neighbours Australia and Indonesia, yet it feels a world away from either country…or anywhere else on Earth. Lush jungles and jagged mountains define the geography of Papua New Guinea. In this beautiful landscape, unique bird and animal species thrive alongside a human culture going back an estimated 40,000 years. Yet as recently as the 1970s, some tribes in Papua New Guinea were only meeting westerners for the first time. Despite years under German and British colonial rule, Papua New Guinea’s native cultures thrived all but untouched by the outside world. For adventurous travellers, it’s an irresistible trip. Port Moresby is most visitors’ first stop, being Papua New Guinea’s capital, largest city, and biggest international airport. Another popular spot on the coast is Madang. One of the prettiest towns in the South Pacific, Madang is also an ideal base for exploring offshore coral gardens and volcanoes. It’s in the Sepik River and Mount Hagen regions, however, where PNG’s uniqueness and diversity really shine through. In full traditional dress, locals showcase their ornate and intensely coloured outfits. Nowhere is this better illustrated than at a sing-sing, where tribes and villages come together in a festival of song, dance, and colourful costumes that showcases their distinct cultures. The costumes, masks, and body paint may not look very friendly, but the 60
sing-sing is a key diplomatic event, historically keeping between communities. For visitors lucky enough to see one, it’s an unforgettable spectacle unlike any other. Fearsome as the sing-sing can look, you won’t find many destinations friendlier than Papua New Guinea. In line with a tradition called the wantok system, Papuans place great value on helping others, and that extends to visitors too. Did we mention diversity? 826 languages are spoken in various parts of PNG, with very little crossover. As a result, interacting with locals in one part of the country is very different to meeting those in another, and lifestyles in the mountains are vastly different to those near the sea. Few outsiders understand that diversity better than Bob Bates. A tour operator since 1976, he’s one of the pioneers of Papua New Guinea tourism, who now owns and operates seven wilderness lodges in the Western Province, along the Sepik and on the coast. Though he doesn’t consider himself a risk taker, Bob’s travels have taken him to destinations as diverse as Zimbabwe and North Korea, so it’s no surprise he remains passionate about sharing all that’s unique about PNG with guests. As exciting as Papua New Guinea is, remember: you’re really out there! Adequate travel insurance is a must. Follow the advice of your guide or trusted locals to stay safe and enjoy the adventure of a lifetime, exploring the Pacific’s last true frontier.
Papua New Guinea is renowned for the elaborate costumes of locals, such as these worn by Mbore women in Madang Province.
New Britain or “Niu Briten” is a popular dive site for foreign travellers in Papua New Guinea.
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TRAVEL LIKE A GLOBETROTTER
Exploring Rome’s Capitoline Hill alongside fellow travellers and an expert guide unlocks secrets you’d never discover on your own. Inset: Carolyn enjoying a glass of wine over Lake Wakatipu, New Zealand.
The Lasting Bonds of Small Group Travel When you explore the world together, you make connections that’ll last a lifetime. WORDS CAROLYN WEPPLER There are many positive qualities to exploring the world alongside others on small group travel. You’ll discover many of these things on the new Odysseys by Goway, our exclusive line of unforgettable small group journeys, guided by Goway. But to me, one element stands out above all the rest: the opportunity to bond with fellow globetrotters. I’ve made friends for life on my past vacations. I’m still in contact with people I met on travels over 30 years ago, regularly checking in on how our journeys have gone since we explored the world together. When you travel alongside others, you make connections that are as powerful as the memories you cherish for the rest of your life. At the very least, you learn a bit about other parts of the world that you don’t come from. At its most profound, you can also experience destinations through the eyes of another, which broadens your own deep understanding of the world and its treasures. While I do enjoy solo travel, I much prefer to share my travel experiences with others. I love to review the day’s events with 62
tour mates and join in the excitement of new experiences. I also find that I’m more open to new experiences when travelling with others. Scared about riding in a hot air balloon over the Serengeti? Go with a group and you’ll find the encouragement you need to embark on this magical journey. There is something instantly binding when your group comes together in the hotel lobby on that first morning and you set off for the day to all see new wonders for the first time. This is especially true for first-time travellers in popular parts of the world, such as Europe, but also in far-flung destinations that are very different from home back in North America. Whether you’re exploring the historic sites of Japan or India, navigating souks in the Middle East, participating in a cooking class in Ghana, or simply enjoying a local meal together on the coast of New Zealand, your experiences can lead to lasting friendships that provide happiness long after you have returned home. The connections we make are often as important as the places we explore and doubly rich for having explored together.
Introducing Odysseys by Goway Unforgettable Small Group Journeys, Guided by Goway. There are 12 Odysseys currently available: Tanzania India
Kenya
East Africa
Japan Autumn
Ghana
Egypt
Saudi Arabia
Japan Cherry Blossom
Peru
Italy
New Zealand
• Stay Longer, Explore More • Join Small Groups for Close Connections • Enjoy Elevated Travel Experiences • Receive Premium Service Guided by Globetrotters
Write your own epic travel story. Embark on an Odyssey by Goway today!
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THE ARCHIVE
Globetrotting Turns 20 A look back at our very first issue. In 2004, Goway embarked on a new storytelling adventure, publishing our very first issue of Globetrotting. We wrote a collection of stories that spanned eight pages, printed on folded tabloid paper. Travel was buoyant and booming around the globe, with SARS and 9/11 in the rearview mirror. Travel to the South Pacific was more in demand than ever—we wrote about Kangaroo Island, Uluru/Ayers Rock, the Great Barrier Reef, and Air New Zealand’s The Lord of the Rings-themed aircraft. Goway also proudly launched our own internet café, operating out of our Sydney office. 64
ABOUT GOWAY
On a tailor-made Goway vacation, you do the dreaming, we do the planning.
Our Story From its inception, Goway has been fuelled by a passion for travel. In 1970, Bruce Hodge moved from Australia to Canada and founded Goway out of his apartment in Toronto. Over 50 years later, Goway is one of North America’s leading travel companies and the the foremost provider of travel experiences to Australia, New Zealand, and the South Pacific.
Tailor-Made
Every trip planned with Goway is tailored to your exact needs and interests.
Goway offers tailor-made trips to over 115 countries worldwide. It’s a family-owned company still owned and operated by Bruce Hodge, which employees over 600 team members around the world. Its headquarters is in Toronto and it has offices in Vancouver, Los Angeles, Sydney, and Manila. Goway plans tailor-made travel experiences for world travellers, while also providing wholesale travel services to professional travel advisors. As well, Goway has dedicated groups, air, and corporate divisions.
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Goway offers exclusive travel products with up to 5-star accommodation and a focus on privateguided touring.
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Our Destination Specialists are authentic experts, having lived, worked, or travelled extensively through the destinations we sell.
Global
We offer tailor-made travel experiences to over 117 countries on all seven continents. With Goway, you can explore the whole world your way. In the 1970s, Goway specialized in overland tours, which often featured exciting bridge crossings, as pictured here.
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