2014 Spring: Goldstein Museum of Design

GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN SPRING 2014

E X H I B ITI O NS

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CO L LEC TI O N

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E V ENTS

DANISH MODERN Design for Living

ALIGN: SENIOR FASHION EXHIBITION

NOTES from the COLLECTION

FALL 2013 HAPPENINGS

SAY IT WITH SNAP: MOTIVATING WORKERS BY DESIGN, 1923-1929 OPENING PARTY & INK LINK: LETTERPRESS MIXER SEPTEMBER 13

100 YEARS OF STUDENT DRAWINGS PART OF THE SCHOOL OF ARCHITECTURE CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION, OCTOBER 25-27

MAKE IT WORK: MOTIVATING THROUGH GRAPHIC DESIGN AND APPLIED PSYCHOLOGY PANEL DISCUSSION WITH RICHELLE HUFF AND BRANDON SULLIVAN, PH.D. NOVEMBER 7

MIXTEC STONECUTTING ARTISTRY: 16TH CENTURY RIBBED VAULTS IN MIXTECA, MEXICO GALLERY TALK WITH BENJAMIN IBARRA SEVILLA SEPTEMBER 16 2

GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN

DIRECTOR’S MESSAGE GOODBYE AND HELLO! I want to take this opportunity to recognize and thank Jim Dozier, who retired from the College of Design at the end of 2013. Jim pioneered the position of Rapson Hall Exhibitions Coordinator in 2002 for the former College of Architecture and Landscape Architecture (CALA) and continued in that role with the formation of the College of Design, becoming a GMD staff member in the process. As an adjunct faculty member in Architecture with prior exhibition experience at the Minnesota Photography Center, Jim combined his deep knowledge of design with an awareness of exhibition development to launch the HGA Gallery exhibition program. Over 40 exhibitions were mounted in the HGA Gallery under Jim’s tenure, some with significant national and international partnerships that expanded students’ understanding of world design and design issues.

To take up the reins of exhibitions, I welcome Mary Alice Chaney as GMD’s first Exhibitions Coordinator for both the HGA Gallery and Gallery 241. Although Mary Alice is new to this role, she is no stranger to GMD. While working on her Master’s degree in Apparel Studies, she installed exhibitions in Gallery 241 and as a PhD candidate in Apparel Studies (with a minor in Museum Studies) she served as Communications Assistant. She also completed an internship at GMD, researching deaccession policies and practices (deaccessioning is the formal removal of an object from the collection).

While completing her dissertation on Hmong baby carriers in Minnesota, Mary Alice had an internship at the University of Wisconsin-Madison’s Helen Louise Allen Textile Collection. Prior to her return to GMD, she worked to develop a comprehensive inventory of the textile collection of the Beverly Historical Society in Beverly, Massachusetts.

Please join us in thanking Jim for his many years of service and in welcoming back Mary Alice!

Yours in design, Lin Nelson-Mayson

UPCOMING EXHIBITIONS SIGNED BY VERA: SCARVES BY AN ICONIC DESIGNER Gallery 241, McNeal Hall May 17 – June 29, 2014 Opening party: Friday, May 16, 6-8pm Featuring examples from the prolific designer’s 40-year career, this exhibition will draw from the Goldstein’s collection of approximately 550 Vera Neumann scarves. From humble beginnings in a New York City kitchen, Neumann’s designs captured the zeitgeist of the tumultuous postwar years and propelled the designer to international fame. Her decision to sign her colorful scarves transformed them from simple accessories to “Veras”, coveted by women the world over.

Scarves by Vera Neumann, (left: 1960s, right: 1960-75), Gifts of David Anger and James Broberg.

ALEXEY BRODOVITCH: ART DIRECTOR Gallery 241, McNeal Hall September 20 – December 21, 2014 Opening party: Friday, September 19, 6-8pm

Alexey Brodovitch: Art Director celebrates the life and work of one of the most preeminent designers of the last century. Best known for his nearly quarter-century tenure at Harper’s Bazaar (1934-1958), Brodovitch ushered in many of the Modernist innovations that shape what we think of today as contemporary magazine design.

His lasting and far-reaching influence is seen throughout graphic design, advertising, photography, and design education.

This exhibition illustrates Brodovitch’s work as an art director and graphic designer through artifacts from the Goldstein Museum of Design and University Libraries collections. Highlights include rare copies of Brodovitch’s magazines, books, and design journals such as the short-lived but revolutionary Portfolio (1950-51).

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Gallery 241, McNeal Hall February 1 – April 27, 2014

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anish Modern furniture and housewares are surging in popularity in the 21st century. Some of the consumers who are buying new or reconditioned Danish furniture in particular were not yet born when this style was first popular in the 1950s-1970s. The design values that Danish Modern represents—utility, beauty, craftsmanship, and attention to the inherent qualities of materials—are as authentic now as they were in the middle decades of the 20th century.

Tova Brandt, the Albert Ravenholt Curator of Danish-American Culture at the Museum of Danish America in Elk Horn, Iowa, curated the exhibition, which emphasizes furniture but also includes housewares, lighting, and toys. The Danish Modern style seamlessly combined elements of early 20th century Modernism with the values for nature and handcraft associated with the earlier Arts and Crafts movement. It also asserts a distinctly Danish aesthetic rooted in the country’s centuries-old woodworking traditions. The Nordic countries had begun to develop a distinctive aesthetic as early as the 1920s and 1930s, but it was after World War II that Danish Modern caught on internationally. Americans were receptive to the unornamented, curvilinear shapes and moderate scale of Danish Modern furniture, and America became a major market. The beautiful yet functional designs of Arne Jacobsen, Hans Wegner, Finn Juhl, Jens Risom, Helge Sibast, Søren George Jensen, Verner Panton, Bjørn Wiinblad, and Jens Quistgaard are represented in the exhibition. Each of these designers contributed distinct looks to a design success story that continues to today.

Købenstyle casserole by Jens Quistgaard, designed in 1955, Collection of the Minneapolis Institute of Arts.

GMD loaned several objects to the exhibition, including toys by Kay Bojeson and a chair by Jens Risom.

Exhibition Sponsors: Blu Dot, Danish Teak Classics, David Johnson and Dan Avchen, Rockler Companies, Inc., and Salmela Architect.

Media Sponsor: Room & Board 4

GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN

EXHIBITIONS

above top: Hippo, Monkey, and Bear by Kay Bojesen, designed in 1951‐1955, Collection of the Goldstein Museum of Design. above bottom: Horse and Rider Candleholder by Bjørn Wiinblad, designed in the late 1960s, Collection of The Danish Immigrant Museum, gift of Karen F. Beall in memory of Karen Juul Vejlø Friedmann. right: Chair No. 8 by Helge Sibast, designed in 1953, Made by Sibast Furniture, Collection of Rosalie Andersen.

Designing the Beautifully Useful: A Panel Discussion on Scandinavian Modern Design Thursday, March 6, 2014, 6 PM, reception following Room 33 McNeal Hall Free and open to the public Laurann Gilbertson

Chief Curator, Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum, Decorah, IA

Curt Pederson

Curator, American Swedish Institute, Minneapolis, MN

Tova Brandt

Albert Ravenholt Curator of Danish-American Culture, Museum of Danish America, Elk Horn, IA

Moderator: Curt Lund, UMN MFA candidate in Graphic Design and Museum Studies

Panel members will examine the intersection of design and ethnic identity as it relates to the popular Scandinavian Modern furniture and household products that were widely available between the end of World War II and the 1970s. Centuries-old woodworking traditions and other craft traditions in Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, as well as international art and design movements, will be considered as possible influences.

Sponsored in part by the Museum of Danish America.

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Carissa Prieve Crystal Compton Jennifer Hessman Jessa Manthe Jordyn Reich Kayla Styczinski Kayna Hobbs Kira Erickson Kora Gleason Laura Schaefer Lauren Janoski Lindsey Dewitt Maisee Her Mary Ellen Berglund Paul Erling Reagan Rockers Shannon Gauer Stacey Petraborg Thanh Nguyen Karen Fiegen

T H E

HGA Gallery Exhibition February 4 – May 4, 2014 Fashion Show Saturday, February 15, 2014 5:30pm & 8pm Rapson Hall Courtyard

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E X H I B I T I O N

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his February, the ALIGN: 46TH Annual Apparel Design Senior Fashion Show offers a sneak peek at emerging talent in the Twin Cities from graduating seniors in the UMN College of Design’s Apparel Design program.

Each senior designs and fabricates a line of apparel which is comprised of four or five different looks that are unified by a theme. Successful completion of this project requires an amazing amount of energy and dedication. The design process begins during the preceding Spring semester when students begin exploring themes and developing potential designs. Concepts evolve and stabilize through a design development phase that includes sketching and photographic research. After this, they recruit and work closely with models, taking measurements, making patterns and doing test fittings throughout the Fall semester. Students carefully select materials and fabricate all the apparel in the months leading up to the show, culminating in rigorous critiques with faculty and mentors from the Twin Cities design community. In addition to the design process students gain experience in event planning, taking responsibility for coordinating every aspect of the show, from finding sponsors to working with the press.

This year, for the first time, the public is getting a glimpse into the students’ design process. In collaboration with GMD, students are producing an exhibition for the HGA Gallery that will display designer bios, mood boards, in-process sketches and prototypes, and photographs of final looks presented in the show. Apparel design senior Maisee Her told us, “The opportunity to share our process gave this class an even bigger challenge, pushing the level of refinement in our work even further.”

In an event where every detail is designed with care, even the title Align has significance. “To us it represents the culmination of our education, us coming together, and supporting each other for our senior show,” said Her. Attendees will see looks ranging from sportswear to cosplay, from androgynous to bridal, demonstrating the diversity of interests and talents that flourish in the UMN Apparel Design program. These talents are briefly brought into alignment before they are once again dispersed as the students graduate and begin their professional careers.

GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN

EXHIBITIONS

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1 Illustration by Lauren Janoski 2 Maisee Her concentrating on a bodice 3 Kira Erickson sketching 4 Karen Feigen dress in process 5 closeup of dress by Jessa Manthe 6 Jordyn Reich examines fabric 7 Karen Feigen at work Graphic Identity: Justin Sengly, BFA

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NOTES FROM THE COLLECTION THE POWER OF PHOTOS These two dresses augment our already strong apparel collection. Photographs of the original owners are particularly valuable and add significantly to our understanding of a garment.

At the outset we knew that the pink silk dress was used as a wedding dress, but the hair, eyeglasses, comportment of the wearer, and general surroundings depicted in the photograph add much to our understanding of cultural and historical context.

Likewise, this yellow cotton day dress is seen anew when seen alongside a snapshot that indicates how it was worn on a crosscountry road trip by a mother of two.

left to right: Ann Northcutt and daughters Dress, c. 1965, The Villager, Gift of Sharonne Hayes.

Grace Tomlinson Wilda Hermann and Edwin C. Hermann Dress, c. 1968, Elinor Simmons for Malcolm Starr, Gift of Kristin D. Anderson.

THE HISTORY AND FUTURE OF PRODUCT DESIGN This spring, in a new class called “The History and Future of Product Design”, students from diverse majors across the University are working handson with objects from the museum’s collection and exploring firsthand the evolution of technology and the application of new materials and processes to everyday consumer goods. At the end of the course they will apply their understanding of these factors to forecast future trends and continuing developments in the fields of industrial and product design. Taught by Curt Lund, an MFA candidate in Graphic Design, this course offers an exciting new way for the GMD to support the education of emerging designers as part of the College of Design’s rapidly growing Product Design program.

Chair, 1930-1988 Ludwig Mies van der Rohe for Knoll International Museum Purchase.

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Fly Swatter and Box, 1998 Phillippe Starck for Alessi Museum Purchase.

Museum White Dinnerware, 1945-1949 Eva Zeisel for Castleton China Co. Gift of Marian-Ortolf Bagley.

GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN

COLLECTION COLLECTION MANAGEMENT: STORIES FROM STORAGE As we continue to implement our new National Endowment for the Humanities funded textile storage system, we have delighted in the opportunity to rediscover hidden gems in the collection. Volunteers Marjorie Ford Sethna and Ann Sisel have spent the past year packing our textiles in special acid free storage boxes. They also take copious notes about and photographs of each piece, helping to expand our knowledge of this extensive collection.

Marj and Ann recently uncovered a cache of beautifully embroidered silk shawls from the 1920s. Slinky, fragile, and trimmed with extra long fringe, these dazzling shawls were difficult to store according to our old system. Now the shawls are neatly folded and placed on supportive trays that can be stacked inside boxes. This helps keep the objects safe, but also facilitates easy access for further study.

Marj Sethna and Ann Sisel in the Research Center

COATS UNDER ANALYSIS Winter in Minnesota: the perfect time and place for cold weather wears. Mary Alice Casto, a Ph.D. student in Apparel Studies at the University of Minnesota, is analyzing coat styles from the GMD’s collection to better understand what “classic” means, and if it is anchored in anything more than myth. Twentieth-century designers and their followers have popularized a range of styles, from red velvet cocoon coats to basic black Chesterfields. Herringbone, tweed, houndstooth, and plaid are among the many weaves that make up this distinctive and somewhat static part of our wardrobe; we typically wear the same coat for many years. Despite the fact that certain coats are, arguably, more fashionable than others, a coat is a garment that tends to be associated with classicism and ongoing stylistic relevance.

If you are interested in participating in Mary Alice’s research please contact her at casto036@umn.edu for details. clockwise from top left: Coat, 1975-1980, Yves Saint Laurent, Gift of Aileen Grossman. Coat, n.d., Bonnie Cashin, Gift of Elizabeth Krueger.

Coat, 1930-1939, Elsa Schiaparelli, Gift of Betty Klein. Coat, 1960-1970, Gunter, Gift of Carol Ann Mackay. Coat, 1960, Pauline Trigere, Gift of Mrs. L.E. Field.

STUDENTS DESIGN GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN IPAD APP In the second semester of a year-long collaboration with the GMD, students in the “Goldstein Museum App” course are busy creating content (text, video, photography, audio) for an iPad application that will allow the public to explore the museum’s collection in a new and dynamic way. As students plan the app, they have been focusing on creating an intuitive user experience with multiple levels of interaction and engagement. Led by instructor Camille LeFevre, the students (bringing expertise from majors as diverse as Computer Science, Marketing, Art History, English Literature, and Graphic Design) have already made significant headway in creating a tool that could allow you to literally hold the GMD collection in your hands.

SPRING 2014

Graphic design student, Kevin Vi, presenting the final prototype from the Fall semester class.

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A LOOK BACK AT DESIGN ROARS! S E P T E M B E R 7, 2 0 1 3

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Our fall fundraising event on Sunfish Lake was a roaring success! Here are some festive moments captured

by Artful Living Magazine.

GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN

GMD DONORS WINTER 2014 NEW AND RENEWING MEMBERS Bradley Agee Louise Asher Shirley Barber Marilyn Bartlett Ann Carlson Birt Meredith Bloomquist Ann W. Braaten Elizabeth Bye Kathleen E. & Paul Campbell Darlene Carroll Judith Christensen Dawn Cook-Ronningen Ruth Hanold & Douglas A. Crane Kareen Daby Laura M. Daumann Elizabeth C. Quinlan Fdn Inc Tom Erickson Dorothy Flynn Evelyn Franklin Delores Ginthner Kathryn Glessing Trude Harmon Lois & Neil Haugerud Jeanette Hauschild Delphine Hedtke Kent Hensley Dolly Hickman Virginia Homme Coral Houle

Mrs. Jerry Huss Peggy Jennings Janet Johnson Robert & Judy Johnson Donald Clay Johnson Nancy Kirby Elise Linehan & Daniel Sass LaRae & Tim LaTourelle Sheila Leiter Carolyn Lussenhop Lynda Martin Marcia McCabe Michelle Mercer Saralee Mogilner Sandra M. & C. Robert Morris Louise M. Mullan Melanie Nelson Marcia O’Connor John Ollmann Virginia Olson Irene Ott David & Mary Parker Christopher Prather Kathryn Reiley Julia Williams Robinson Marilyn Setzler Sharron Steinfeldt Steven Streeter Linnea Tweed Julia Wallace

Cheryl Watson Donna Weispfenning & Robert Groger Gloria Williams COLLECTION DIGITIZATION Margaret M. Bubolz Trust Kathleen E. & Paul Campbell Jeanne Corwin Sarah Cox Dolores Vnak Defore Lois and Lawrence Gibson The John and Ruth Huss Fund Marcia McCabe David and Linda Mona Fund of The Minneapolis Foundation Sandra M. Morris Julia Williams Robinson Julia Wallace Mary Ann Barrows Wark DIRECTOR’S FUND Sue J Bartolutti EXHIBITION SUPPORT Blu Dot Danish Teak Classics David Johnson & Daniel Avchen Rockler Companies, Inc. Salmela Architect

GENERAL SUPPORT Georgene Angrist Marilyn Bartlett Ann Braaten Anna Carlson Jean & Richard Clarke Jean A. Donaldson Richard & Katharine Fournier Margene B. & David Fox Lois E. & Neil E. Haugerud Jeanette Hauschild Corrine Heiberg Jason Howard Ann M. & Matthew Kramer Marit Lee Kucera Sandra M. Morris Margaret J. & James C. Perso Timothy Quigley Julia Williams Robinson Paul Schroeder Sharron Steinfeldt Shirley K. Ungar Mrs. L. A. Ziebell JEROME L. JOSS ENDOWMENT Sandra M. Morris MEDIA SPONSOR Room & Board

GMD ADVISORY BOARD

BOARD MEMBERS

John Ollmann, Signals

2013-2014 OFFICERS

Bradley Agee, Department of Landscape

Architecture, U of M

Lindsay Piram, Lindsay Piram Creative

PRESIDENT Tim Quigley, Quigley Architects

Richard Beckel, Primeau

PRESIDENT-ELECT Kent Hensley, Hensley Creative/The Bernard Group

Julie Dasher, Julie Dasher Rugs

SECRETARY Cheryl Watson, Graphiculture

Matthew Hatch, Maximum Graphics

Christine Hartman, Holly Hunt

Julia Robinson, School of Architecture, U of M Christopher Spong, Social Media Strategist Stephanie Zollinger, Department of Design,

Housing and Apparel, U of M

Debra Herdman, debra herdman design

EX-OFFICIO

Linda Hersom, SHO, Inc.

Dean Tom Fisher, College of Design

Kimberly Hogan, Community Volunteer

Brad Hokanson, Associate Dean for Research

and Outreach

John Lassila, John Lassila & Associates Heidi Libera, Streeter & Associates

Lin Nelson-Mayson, Director

Shanthini Logendran, Holly Hunt

GMD STAFF Hannah Bartz............................................................................................................................Gallery Staff Elizabeth Bischoff...................................................................................................................Gallery Staff Kathleen Campbell................................................................................................................. Grant Writer Mary Alice Chaney...........................................................................................Exhibitions Coordinator Alex Christl.................................................................................................................................Gallery Staff Karen Froistad..........................................................................................................................Gallery Staff Eunice Haugen............................................................................................................................... Registrar Betsy Intharath.........................................................................................................................Gallery Staff Barbara Lutz......................................................................................................Administrative Assistant Emily Marti.....................................................................................................Communications Assistant Jean McElvain.................................................................................................................Assistant Curator Kendall Moon............................................................................................................................Gallery Staff Joey Mueller..............................................................................................................................Gallery Staff Lauren Nelson..........................................................................................................................Gallery Staff Lin Nelson-Mayson......................................................................................................................... Director Jeanette Olson-Peterson....................................................................................................Gallery Staff Jeanne Schacht.............................................................................................................Graphic Designer Matt Shea....................................................................................................................................Gallery Staff Natasha Thoreson.................................................................................................. Collection Assistant

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All GMD programming is made possible in part by a grant provided by the Minnesota State Arts Board through an appropriation by the Minnesota arts and cultural heritage fund with money from the vote of the people of Mnnesota on November 4, 2008, and a grant from the National Endowment for the Arts.

Funding for the collection photography project was made possible by a grant from the U.S. Institute of Museum and Library Services.

The University of Minnesota is an equal opportunity educator and employer.

Printed on recycled and recyclable paper with at least 10 percent post-consumer material.

To request disability accommodations or to receive this publication/material in alternative formats please contact: Goldstein Museum of Design, 364 McNeal Hall, 612.624.7434.

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Nonprofit Org. U.S. Postage

GALLERY 241 MCNEAL HALL, SAINT PAUL Tuesday–Friday 10:00 am–5:00 pm Weekends 1:30 pm–4:30 pm FREE admission

HGA GALLERY RAPSON HALL, MINNEAPOLIS

PAID 364 McNeal Hall 1985 Buford Avenue St. Paul, MN 55108

Twin Cities, MN Permit No. 90155

Monday–Friday 9:00 am–6:00 pm Weekends 1:00 pm–5:00 pm FREE admission

gmd@umn.edu 612.624.7434 goldstein.design.umn.edu Goldstein Museum of Design GoldsteinMuseum

COAT ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE COLLECTION

Fashion illustrations from La Gazette du Bon Ton, donated to the GMD collection by Harold P. Peterson.

André Edouard Marty, Les Embarras de Paris, Manteau d’apres-midi, de Doeuillet, 1920. George Barbier, La Belle aux Moineau, Robe de Visite de Paquin, 1913.

André Edouard Marty, J’ai le bout du nez rouge ou Un malheur vite repare, Robe de Worth, 1920. George Lepape, Gilles, Grand manteau pour l’hiver, 1913.George Barbier, Au jardin des Hespredies, Tailleur de Paquin pour l’automne, 1913. clockwise from left: