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New A La Folie, Achille, Ateliers Auguste, L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer, Caffè dei Cioppi, Champeaux, Elmer, L’Exception, Fish Club, Flow, Holiday Café, Klin d’Oeil, Loulou, Le Macumba, Madame Arthur, Maison Labiche, Le Marché Noir, Mise en Cage, Panache, Le Petit Keller, Restaurant Passerini, Salt, Sept Cinq, Simone Pérèle, Sprezzatura, Ten Belles Bread, Thierry Lasry, Tondo, Villa Vassilieff, Wild & the Moon, Yann Couvreur Patisserie Hangouts Amah Ayivi, Daniele Balice, Alain Ducasse, Christelle Kocher, Robin Meason, Alexandra Senes, Christophe Vasseur. Paris AW16-17 | Gogo City Guides | Insider Guides to Go


GOGO PARIS: Autumn / Winter 2016-17 ISBN: 978-2-919474-20-2 Twelfth edition Š Gogo City Guides 2010–2016

Gogo City Guides Ltd., Pinnacle House, 1st Floor, 31 Cross Lances Road, Hounslow, TW3 2AD, UK. www.gogocityguides.com All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission from the publisher.


— Biannual Edition


7 This Season in Paris 16 Hangouts 24 Directory 29 Transport — 33 Etienne Marcel / Saint-Honoré 47 Marais 59 Left Bank 71 Champs-Elysées 81 Montmartre / Pigalle 91 Canal Saint-Martin / Belleville 101 Bastille / Oberkampf — 112 Hotels 116 Index Alphabetical 119 Index By Tags


Paris, fr

News & Trends Fashion - Revolving Doors for ADs After months of rumours, Hedi Slimane quit Saint Laurent in April “at the end of a four-year mission, which has led to the complete repositioning of the brand,” as the house announced in a statement. He was swiftly replaced with Anthony Vaccarello, who presents his first collection for the house, for Spring/ Summer 2017, during Paris Fashion Week in October. We got a clue to his pared-back vision for the brand in June, when the first campaign was published. Another two storied Parisian houses are to present début collections from their new creative directors during next Fashion Week: Bouchra Jarrar has filled the empty chair at Lanvin, after Alber Elbaz’s acrimonious split from the house last year. And Maria Grazia Chiuri – after 17 years at Valentino – takes over the top job at Dior – the first woman to do so – after Raf Simons’ surprise defection last Oct.

Anthony Vaccarello

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Shopping After controversial changes to labour laws in 2015, the BHV / Marais managed to rapidly negotiate with its unions, becoming the first Parisian department store to open on Sundays.

Villa Savoye

Archi - Unesco recognises Le Corbusier’s contribution to Modernism In July, UNESCO added 17 projects by 20th-century Franco-Swiss architect Le Corbusier to its list of internationally significant architecture World Heritage sites. Built over a period of a halfcentury, in the course of what Le Corbusier described as “patient research,” the sites are testament to the invention of a new architectural language that made a break with the past. The Complexe du Capitole in Chandigarh, the National Museum of Western Art Tokyo, the House of Dr Curutchet in La Plata, the Unité d’habitation in Marseille or the Villa Savoye just outside Paris reflect the solutions that the Modern movement sought to apply during the 20th century to the challenges of inventing new architectural techniques to respond to the needs of society. These masterpieces also attest to the internationalisation of architectural practice across the planet. www.fondationlecorbusier.fr

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This Season in Paris

Food - Bread on the Rise

Chef Svante Forstorp at Achille

Eat & Drink - Latest Restaurant Openings Chef-poet Svante Forstorp is in the kitchens of new table Achille (pg 102), where he’s turning out more of the nuanced cooking that earned him so many fans at Vivant Cave (pg 95). And 20-something chef Pierre Touitou is now at the helm there, preparing inspiring small plates to go with the natural wines. The young Sardinian chef of the muchmissed Roseval, Simone Tondo has a new restaurant Tondo (pg 105), that demonstrates his modern and inventive cooking style. The much-loved chefowner Giovanni Passerini of the now-closed Rino has opened his acclaimed new restaurant Restaurant Passerini (pg 104) –

a trattoria totale – next door to his fresh pasta shop. Daniel de la Falaise designed the simple and modern menu at lovely new spot for style cats Holiday Café (pg 73). And we’re looking forward to the opening of Clover Grill at 6 Rue Bailleul from Jean-François Piège, already at the helm of perfect local bistro Clover (pg 61), as well as his gastronomic restaurant Le Grand Restaurant (pg 73). Also on Rue Bailleul, chef Daniel Rose, of Spring (pg 37) and La Bourse & La Vie (pg 34) restaurants, prepares to resuscitate the quintessential Les Halles bistro Chez la Vieille. Autumn Winter 16-17

A new chapter is being added to the ancient love story between the French capital and bread. If most chefs leave the art of breadmaking to their favourite bakers, some choose to take care of it in-house. Two pioneers include chef Alain Passard, who at his mythic restaurant Arpège (pg 60) not only works with vegetables from his own gardens, but also serves his own bread; and Thierry Breton makes his own delicious sourdough at La Pointe du Grouin (pg 94), as well as supplying many other restaurants and cafés around Paris. NY expat Marc Grossman is making the city’s best artisanal bagels at Bob’s Bake Shop. And more recently Anna Trattles and Alice Quillet, the talented chef duo from Ten Belles (pg 95), have opened Ten Belles Bread (pg 105), a combined bakery and coffee shop where the menu is based on the range of breads they bake on-site. And finally Simone Tondo of hot new table Tondo (pg 105) is serving guests house‑made bread too.

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Amah Ayivi

This fashion explorer and new-gen “sapeur” is bringing a new spin on France’s colonial history and on contemporary black culture to Paris. One of the founders of the Comptoir Général, the wild and exotic bar on the Canal St Martin, his new address has transferred the “black market” that was open on the mezzanine there to big new digs by Carreau du Temple. This Marché Noir is a vast temple to ghetto fashion selling vintage clothes, jewellery and accessories and spread out over two floors. Its unique décor plays out the historic meeting between the first English settlers and the kings of Africa and includes a corner paying tribute to the Dogon temples of Mali. A next-door tearoom – selling exotic cocktails, juices and specialty coffees – resembles the Western coffee shops found in old colonial cities. There’s nothing like it in Paris. www.marchenoir.co

Le Comptoir Général

My HQ. When the sun goes down, this temple to exoticism on the Canal Saint-Martin is the best place in Paris to sip cocktails and dance to the wild sounds. www.facebook.com/lecomptoirgeneral/

Ofr

Located a short walk from Le Marché Noir, this design and fashion bookshop/gallery is a great source of inspiration, thanks to Marie and Alexandre’s cuttingedge selection. ww.ofrsystem.com/librairie

Chez Fred

This friendly grocery stocks quality Italian and British produce. 9 rue Alibert, 10th.

Le Macumba

The new haunt for stylish nightowls where the kings of pop are reborn. www.facebook.com/ macumbanightetdayclub/

the atmosphere. 39 rue de Bretagne, 75003 Paris.

L’Equateur

The best place in Paris to enjoy a good maffé or poisson braisé. lequateur.fr

Musée de l’Armée For the beauty of this fascinating place. www.musee-armee.fr

La Mano

Me and my crew love to set the dancefloor on fire here. lamano.paris

Piscine Molitor

I appreciate this Art Deco building, not only for its structure, but also for its quality cultural programme where art and design collide. www.mltr.fr

Le Marché des Enfants Rouges The place to enjoy good food on the go. I know a lot of the traders here and I love

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Directory

Addresses

Cell Phones, see Mobile Phones

Paris is made up of 20 arrondissements, spiralling outwards in aclockwise direction from the 1st arrondissement in the centre. The last two digits of postcodes indicate the arrondissement: so 75002 is the 2nd arrondissement, etc. Arrondissements are indicated on the blue enamel street signs, above the street name. Home addresses can be quite complicated: to get into a building off the street you will usually need a code for the outside door, then the letter indicating which staircase to take, the floor number, then the position of the apartment (right, left etc). Bis and ter after a building number are the eqivalent of ‘b’ or ‘c’ and indicate a separate address. The name of Métro stations and arrondissements are used to explain where you are or where you’re going: “Just got out at Pigalle, walking down to Hotel Amour in the 9th...”

Clubbing

Babysitting One agency offering anglophone babysitters is Baby Speaking (baby-speaking.fr/en/). It’s best to call and ask for an English-speaking member of staff rather than reserve online. The typical rate starts from around 9–11€ per hour, with a minimum of 3 hours. You can also check the ads on the Paris edition of Craigslist: paris.fr.craigslist.fr/kid

Banking, see Money Booking Tickets The main websites for reserving tickets are Fnac (www.fnacspectacles. com) and Digitick (www.digitick.com). On both sites you can choose English under langue. Both offer a full range of options, covering both electronic and printed tickets.

Clubs don’t tend to get going until 1am or 2am, so plan to go out late. Many clubs have ‘elitist’ door policies, so try not to turn up in a big group of drunk men. Admission charges can often include a free drink (consommation), and drinks in general tend to be quite pricey (12-14€ a cocktail). It’s common to buy a bottle of alcohol rather than rounds by the glass, especially if you want a table.

Condoms Preservatifs, as they’re called here, are sold in pharmacies and supermarkets, and there are condom vending machines in most Métro stations as well as in bars and clubs.

Cost of Living Baguette ‘tradition’ 1.10€; Big Mac 4.35€; cinema ticket 11.90€; pack of Marlboro 7€; espresso 2€; International New York Times 3.20€.

Credit Cards, see Money Dentists Dentists can be found on the Pages Jaunes website (www.pagesjaunes.fr) under dentistes. For emergencies contact: Hôpital de la PitiéSalpêtrière (13th. 01 42 16 14 41) the only dental hospital with extended hours (6am–10.30pm). After 5.30pm use the emergency entrance at 83 bd de l’Hôpital, 13th (Métro St-Marcel). SOS Dentaire (01 43 37 51 00 | 87 bd de Port Royal, 13th) is a private dental office that offers (night & weekend) services when most dentists are off-duty.

Autumn Winter 16-17

Dining We have categorised each restaurant featured in the guide by the average price of a main meal: € : under 15€; €€: 15€–25€; €€€: 25€–35€; and €€€€ : 35€+. Places charging less than 10€ a meal have also been tagged ‘budget’, find them in the index on page 120. Meal times are fairly strictly observed in Paris. Lunch time is between noon and 2.30pm and dinner from 8pm onwards. Outside of these times, you’ll need to find a service continu place (we've tagged these as ‘nonstop’, see page 124). It’s usual to meet up with friends at 7pm for an apéro, or pre-dinner drink. It’s common, but not obligatory, to tip around 10%.

Doctors Doctors can be found on the Pages Jaunes website (www.pagesjaunes.fr) under ‘médecin généraliste’. Consultations with a doctor who is ‘conventionné secteur 1’ will cost 23€, but ‘secteur 2’ can charge what they like. For emergencies contact: SOS Médecins (01 47 07 77 77; 24hr house calls 36 24; www.sosmedecins.com) Urgences Médicales de Paris Paris Medical Emergencies; (01 53 94 94 94 | www.ump.fr) Both offer 24-hour house calls costing between 35€ and 90€ depending on the time of day and whether you are covered by French social security.

Drinking & Drugs The legal drinking age is 18 but you are not usually required to provide ID when buying alcohol. Like most major capitals, there are plenty of drugs around, and the amount of people smoking hash in public places can be surprising at first. But keep in mind that all drugs are illegal in France and the police have the right to stop and search anyone. If caught,

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Paris, fr

machines at Vélib stations; they cost 1.70€ for a day or 8€ for a week but note that you need to return your bike to a station every half hour or you will be fined 1€ for the 1st half hour and 4€ for each half hour after that. Also, you’ll need a bank card with a chip in it to use the service. There are over 372km of cycle lanes in Paris and many main roads are closed to cars but open to bikes on Sundays and public holidays. www.velib.paris.fr

66 99, a dedicated English-language line (www.taxisg7.fr) and Taxis Bleus, 3609 or 01 41 27 66 99, (www.taxisbleus.com).

Bike Tours

Moto Taxis

There are a number of companies providing bike tours for tourists. Fat Tire Bike Tours (01 56 58 10 54 | fattirebiketours.com) is an American company; Paris Bike Tour (01 42 74 22 14 | www.parisbiketour.net), based in the Marais, offer basic bike hire as well as tours; and Bike About Tours (06 18 80 84 92 | www.bikeabouttours.com) is a smaller, grassroots company that offers more personal tours.

Another option, especially when there is traffic, is to take a motorbike taxi. Two companies that provide this service are City Bird (0 826 100 100 | www.city-bird.com) and Moto Cab (0 810 811 422 | www.motocab.com) but Google ‘moto taxi’ to find others. Expect to pay 25€–45€ for a journey within Paris (and up to around 65€ between 11pm and 5am).

Taxis Taxis are recognisable by the taxi light on their tops, which are lit green when available and red when taken (there are still taxis running with the older code of white when available and yellow when taken). They can be hailed in the street (as long as you are not within 50 metres of a taxi stand), taken at taxi stands or reserved by telephone in advance. They are often hard to find on weekends. Tarifs (2.60€ service charge, 7€ minimum charge) are amongst the lowest in Europe. This, added to the typically short distances covered, make them a good option. Most taxis will only take 3 people at a time. When reserving a taxi by phone, be aware that you also pay for the time it takes for the taxi to get to you, which can bump up the cost considerably. Two reliable companies are: G7, 3607 or 01 41 27

32

Private Driver Apps An alternative to taxis are the private car companies that work via apps on your smartphone, including Uber www.uber.com, Snapcar www. snapcar.com, or LeCab www.lecab.fr.

Cars Paris is generally easier to navigate on public transport than it is by car, but if you do need a car, hire companies include www.sixt.fr, www.avis.fr, www.easycar.com. Be aware that French law requires you to have the insurance and registration documents on you. Parking can be... difficult. Pay and display machines take a parking card (carte de stationnement) available at tabacs in increments of 10€ or 30€. Parking illegally often results in fines or being towed.

Private Cars with Drivers Private chauffeured car companies in Paris include the reliable: Service Prestige 01 44 29 29 44 | www.serviceprestige.fr, and LTD 01 48 45 63 12 | ltdweb.fr

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1st & 2nd Arrondissements / Les Halles Montorgueil Louvre Palais-Royal Getting around

Get out at Palais Royal station. From here you can visit fashion mecca the Palais-Royal before continuing your shopping west up the Rue St-Honoré. Turn left at Rue Royale to visit Place de la Concorde, before backtracking east along arcaded, souvenir shop strip Rue de Rivoli, or through the Tuileries gardens to the Louvre. For Etienne Marcel, get out at same-name Metro and keep in mind Rue Tiquetonne, Rue Etienne Marcel and the cobblestoned Rue Montorgueil. Les Halles is Paris’s central transport hub, and also features a sprawling subterranean shopping mall.

Concorde, Place Vendôme, Palais-Royal, the Tuileries Gardens or the magnificent Louvre… Get your monument fix here! This part of central Paris is the cultural and consumer hub of the capital and boasts two major shopping neighbourhoods: Rei Kawakubo pioneered the Etienne Marcel area as a fashion district back in the 80s, and it’s still delivering; and Colette shook up the Rue St-Honoré (the formerly scruffy end of Faubourg St-Honoré) when it moved in 15 years ago. Then there’s all the major chains at Les Halles, the city’s major shopping mall and transport hub. And the Rue Ste-Anne, running between Opéra and PalaisRoyal, is where to go for Japanese food.


Paris, fr

New Champeaux, Fish Club, L’Exception, Loulou, Le Macumba, Sept Cinq... Art, Culture, Design Jeu de Paume don’t miss

[3B]

/ museum / photo France’s national centre of photography, within the Tuileries Gardens, excels in insightful retrospectives of modern and contemporary photography. art

1 place de la Concorde, 8th | 11am–7pm. Closed Mon | www.jeudepaume.org

​Louvre [5E] / music / mythic Keep in mind that the world’s ultimate museum also boasts a quality contemporary art programme. Late-night opening (Wed & Fri) is a good way to avoid the crowds. art

Place du Carrousel, 1st | 9am–6pm (Wed & Fri 10pm). Closed Tue | www.louvre.fr

Musée des Arts Décoratifs don’t miss

[4D]

/ museum Grandly installed in a wing of the Louvre, the decorative arts museum complex houses one of the world’s most important collections of design, but also a fashion museum and a great shop. design

107 rue de Rivoli, 1st | 11am–6pm (Thu 9pm). Closed Mon | www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr

Musée de L’Orangerie [B4] / museum Two purpose-built gallery spaces exhibit Monet’s mind-blowing Nymphéas series of 8 monumental paintings, quivering on the threshold art

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of abstraction.

Jardin des Tuileries, 1st | 9am–6pm. Closed Tue | www.musee-orangerie.fr​​

a meal or a drink.

36 rue des Petits-Champs, 2nd | No reservations | Noon–2am daily.

Le Bougainville €€ [F2] / classic french Four generations later, this family owned bistro, inside the charming Galerie Vivienne, is an institution, offering the joys of an eternal menu, decor, and happy vibe. breakfast

5 rue de la Banque, 2nd | 01 42 60 05 19 | 8am–midnight. Closed Sun. ​

Eat & Coffee

Bachaumont €€ new [G3] bar / breakfast / cocktails non-stop / wifi

/

You won’t be disappointed by this central boutique hotel’s stylish restaurant and bar. Spread over the ground floor, and spilling on to the cobbled street in summer, the restaurant pimps a sophisticated contemporary menu from its open kitchen. Finish the night with a cocktail at the moody little bar Night Flight.

18 rue Bachaumont, 2nd | 01 81 66 47 50 | 7.30am– 11pm daily | www.hotelbachaumont.com

Beef Club €€ [G3] steak

This steakhouse serves aged English beef from superior butcher Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec plus other lip-smacking dishes. Downstairs in the basement is a moody cocktail lounge from the Experimental Cocktail Crew (see Beef Club Ballroom below). 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1st | 09 54 37 13 65 | 7pm–2am. Closed Sun.

La Belle Époque €€ [E2] bar / brunch / late french / non stop

/ modern

Recently relaunched, this classic bistro with its updated, turn-of-thecentury décor is a stylish and central option at any time of the day for

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La Bourse & La Vie €€€ new [F2] / classic french A perfect, gastro take on classic French bistro fare (leeks vinaigrette, pot-au-feu sauce ravigote, crème brûlée...) from the American chef Daniel Rose of Spring fame, and his French wife Marie-Aude Mery, at this elegant little spot designed by Elliott Barnes. breakfast

12 rue Vivienne, 2nd | 01 42 60 08 83 | 9am–2pm; 7–10pm. Closed Sat, Sun.

Le Café € [G3] non-stop

/ terrace This buzzing little Etienne Marcel address is the perfect spot to refuel before braving the shops again.

62 rue Tiquetonne, 2nd | 01 40 39 08 00 | 8am–1am daily.

Café Etienne Marcel €€ [G3] breakfast / brunch / modern french / non-stop / terrace / wi-fi

Wild, pop interiors from star graphic designers M/M Paris, with contemporary artists Philippe Parreno and Pierre Huyghe, at this expansive corner café. Enjoy your M/M ‘Loveburger’ and fries on one of the many outdoor tables and watch the world go by. 64 rue Tiquetonne, 2nd | 01 45 08 01 03 | 9am–2am daily.


Paris, fr

cocktails (plus the other usual suspects).

58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1st | eccbeefclub.com | 7pm–4am. Closed Sun.

Chacha Club [G4] club

This cosy Deco-style club and restaurant hybrid provides multiple excuses for excess. Good DJs. 47 rue Berger, 1st | 8pm–late daily | www.chachaclub.fr

La Conserverie [H1] / cocktails / wine bar One of the city’s most sleek and comfortable cocktail and wine bars. bar

37bis rue du Sentier, 2nd | 7pm–2am daily | www.laconserveriebar.com

Experimental Cocktail Club [H3] / cocktails The original address for the city’s very own cocktail mafia, this relaxed, speakeasy-style bar boasts a serious cocktail list. Come and drink with those in the know.

cocktails and tasting trios. All the cordials and bitters are made in house. PS A grilled cheese sandwich counter is now open street-side. 58 rue d’Aboukir, 2nd | 6pm–1.30am. Closed Sun | www.mabelparis.com

Le Macumba new [G5] club

A shadowy temple for shamans of pop. 130 rue de Rivoli, 1st  | 11.30pm–5am. Closed Sun–Tue | macumba.club

Harry’s Bar [D1] / cocktails / mythic ‘Just tell the taxi driver: Sank Roo Doe Noo’ goes the bar’s slogan. It probably served Hemingway well back in the 20s, around the time the Bloody Mary was invented here (or so the story goes). This cult, century-old bar remains an oasis of New York culture in Paris. bar

5 rue Daunou, 2nd  | Noon–2am daily | www.harrysbar.fr

Mabel [H2] / cocktails A London style ‘cocktail den’ and ‘rum empire’ serving elaborate rum-based bar

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/ cocktails Skip the neo-Scandinavian dining trip upstairs and head straight to the basement where a black-lacquered altar to cocktails and decadence awaits you. bar

35 place du Marché St-Honoré, 1st | 7pm–2am daily | www.treshonore.com

/ grungy / live music There’s Guinness on tap at this cool London-style pub/club with a nightly programme of indie gigs and DJ sets. club

/ non-stop /

Drawing a very mixed crowd, this atmospheric Parisian wine bar is perfect for continuing the fun after a vernissage at Colette, down the street. They also serve a simple bistro menu. 10 rue du Marché Saint-Honoré, 1st | 7am (9am Sat)–2am. Closed Sun.

bar

37 rue St-Sauveur, 2nd | 6pm–2am (Fri & Sat 5am). Closed Sun | www.facebook.com/eccparis/

Très Honoré Bar [D2]

Truskel [F1]

Le Rubis [D3] bar / classic french wine bar

5 rue Molière, 1st | 11pm–late; Wed–Sat club, Sun–Tue bar | tigrebylalternative.fr

Silencio don’t miss [G2] / live music Dress up, then let it all hang out, intellectually speaking, at the glam basement club designed by David Lynch (members only till midnight). club

142 rue Montmartre, 2nd | 6pm–6am. Closed Sun | www.silencio-club.com

Social Club [G2] / live music Basement club for the electro kids with good sound, an even better programme, and a futuristic decor inspired by the film Tron. club

142 rue Montmartre, 2nd | Wed–Sat 11pm–6am | www.parissocialclub.com

Le Tigre [E3] / club Beautiful young things dance to Bloc Party, The Clash or Depeche Mode in this rock’n’roll velvet boudoir. bar

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12 rue Feydeau, 2nd | 6pm (4.45pm Sat)–5am. Closed Sun, Mon | www.truskel.com

Shopping & Other Stories [G3] / shoes A second Paris flagship for this more high-end H&M brand. With a team spread between Paris and Stockholm, & Other Stories, which began as a cosmetics company, is strong, strong, strong on accessories: cool bags, hair accessories, lingerie, beauty, ‘Made in Italy’ shoes, mags, jewellery, and of course some great ready-to-wear! fashion

35 rue Montmartre, 2nd (+ branches) | 10am–7.30pm. Closed Sun | www.stories.com

Adieu don’t miss [G2] shoes

A hand-crafted French take on the shoes – creepers, Doc Martens, winklepickers etc.– of the British working classes, from the days of the Teddy Boys through the emergence of the punk scene in the 70s and 80s. 7 rue d’Aboukir, 2nd | 11am (noon Sat)–7pm. Closed Sun | www.adieu-paris.com


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Réau mur ail uM etits d e Pierre Cham u R Maison ps Frey Chez Kitsuné Georges Adieu Le Moulin Kunitoraya 2 Hotel Verjus Olympia de la Vierge Bachaumont Télescope Café Le-Tan Le Pain Gripoix Design Kunitoraya 1 Experimental Quotidien Heimat Blend & Nature Mariage Cocktail Club Hamburger mides H.A.N.D. Ellsworth Cos Frères Bonpoint La Marée & Other Acne Studios Jeanne Rue Zef Café Rice & Fish Étie Maison Stohrer nne Stories Kitsuné Maison Fibre Kenzo Doris Mar Jimmy Fairly cel Y's Marc e n Maison n Rick Owens Etie l Rue Hérold Margiela Le Bihan Le Tigre Corto Moltedo Avril Gau CaféMarceliwatch afé Kokon i K Le C nthony to Zai L'Éclaireur Miss Bibi A Peto Didier Pierre Hardy Ludot Chez Maman Marc i Le Mont le Bihan Pierrot ulo St Michel Jérôme Bo Beef Club u agnés b. Dreyfuss étienne marcel ed Ballroom o Ru rbig e Tu Palais Rue d e du C Ru Joe Allen Royal Francesco L'Eglise Saintolon el Dr Eustache Russo iant Café Christian Le Nemours Pirouette Louboutin Rue Sain t-Ho les halles noré Claus Le Pain palais royal Quotidien Rue Karine Champeaux musée du louvre B e rger Arabian Chacha Club châtelet Louvre Rue de R Le Forum des Chez ivol Halles Café Marly i La Regalade Denise Bleu de Yam'tcha Paname Le Garde L'Exception Robe Spring ères ps

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A short selection by arrondissement.


Hotels

1er Hôtel Costes €€€€ 82 rooms.

239 rue Saint-Honoré, 1st | M° Tuileries | 01 42 44 50 00 | www.hotelcostes.com

Hôtel du Continent €€ 25 rooms.

30 rue du Mont-Thabor, 1st | M° Concorde | 01 42 60 75 32 | en.hotelcontinent.com

4th

Hôtel Sorbonne €€ 37 rooms.

5 rue de Moussy €€€€

5 rue de Moussy, 4th | M° Hôtel de Ville | 01 44 78 92 00 | info@3rooms-5ruedemoussy.com

Hôtel Bourg Tibourg €€€ 30 rooms.

19 rue du Bourg Tibourg, 4th | M° Hôtel de Ville |01 42 78 47 39 | www.bourgtibourg.com

Hôtel Le Crayon €€

Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais €€

25 rue du Bouloi, 1st | M° Louvre-Rivoli  01 42 36 54 19 | www.hotelcrayon.com

12 rue Vieille du Temple, 4th | M° St Paul  01 42 72 34 12 | www.carondebeaumarchais.com

27 rooms.

2nd Hôtel Bachaumont €€€ new 49 rooms.

18 rue Bachaumont, 2nd | M° Sentier | 01 81 66 47 00 | www.hotelbachaumont.com

Hôtel Edgar €€ 13 rooms.

31 rue d’Alexandrie, 2nd | M° RéaumurSébastopol or Sentier | 01 40 41 05 69  www.edgarhotel.com

Hôtel Saint Marc €€€ new 26 rooms.

36 Rue Saint-Marc, 2nd / M° Richelieu-Drouot / 01 42 86 72 72 / www.hotelsaintmarc.com

3

rd

Les Bains €€€ 57 rooms.

7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé, 3rd | M° Etienne-Marcel | 01 42 77 07 07 | www.lesbains-paris.com

Hôtel Jules & Jim €€ 23 rooms.

11 rue des Gravilliers, 3rd | M° Arts et Métiers | 01 44 54 13 13 | www.hoteljulesetjim.com

Hôtel du Petit Moulin €€ 17 rooms.

29 rue de Poitou, 3rd | M° Filles du Calvaire  | 01 42 74 10 10 | www.hotelpetitmoulinparis.com

19 rooms.

Hôtel Duo €€ 60 rooms.

11 rue du Temple, 4th | M° Hôtel de Ville  01 42 72 72 22 | www.parishotelleduo.com

Hôtel Emile €€ 29 rooms.

2 rue Malher, 4th | M° St Paul  01 42 72 76 17 | www.hotelemile.com

Villa Mazarin €€ 29 rooms.

6 rue Victor Cousin, 5th | M° Cluny La Sorbonne | 01 43 54 58 08 | www.hotelsorbonne.com

6th Hôtel Récamier €€€ 24 rooms.

3bis place Saint Sulpice, 6th | M° St Sulpice | 01 43 26 04 89 | www.hotelrecamier.com

Hôtel de Nesle € 20 rooms.

7 rue de Nesle, 6th | M° Odéon | 01 43 54 62 41 | www.hoteldenesleparis.com

Fontaines du Luxembourg €€ 30 rooms.

4 rue de Vaugirard, 6th | M° Odéon | 01 43 25 35 90 | www.hotel-luxembourg.com

Hôtel Mayet €€ 23 rooms.

3 rue Mayet, 6th | M° Vaneau | 01 47 83 21 35 | www.mayet.com

Le Montana €€€

6 rue des Archives, 4th | M° Hôtel de Ville  01 53 01 90 90 | www.villamazarin.com

6 suites.

Hôtel Jeanne d’Arc €

Villa d’Estrées €€€

35 rooms.

3 rue de Jarente, 4th | M° St Paul | 01 48 87 62 11 | www.hoteljeannedarc.com

28 rue Saint-Benoît, 6th | M° Saint-Germain-desPrés | 01 53 63 79 20 | www.hotel-lemontana.com

10 rooms

17 rue Gît-le-Coeur, 6th | M° St-Michel | 01 55 42 71 11 | www.villadestrees.com

Villa des Princes €€

5th

11 rooms.

Hôtel des Grands Hommes €€€ 31 rooms.

17 place du Pantheon, 5th | M° MaubertMutualité | 01 46 34 19 60 | www.hoteldesgrandshommes.com

Hôtel des Grandes Ecoles €€ 51 rooms.

75 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, 5th. M° Cardinal Lemoine | 01 43 26 79 23  hotel-grandes-ecoles.com

Autumn Winter 16-17

19 rue Monsieur Le Prince, 6th |M° Odéon | 01 46 33 31 69 |www.villa-des-princes.com

7th Hôtel Bellechasse €€€ 34 rooms.

8 rue de Bellechasse, 7th | M° Solferino | 01 45 50 22 31 | www.lebellechasse.com

113


Paris, fr

A to Z & Other Stories 38 13 Bonaparte 52 104 (Le) 92 66 (Le) 76 6 Paul Bert (Le) 102 7L 63 A A la Cloche d’Or 82 A la Folie 95 Abri 92 Achille 102 Acne Studios 63 Adieu 38 Agnelle 38 Agnès b. 39 Alexis Mabille 63 Alléno Paris – Pavillon Ledoyen 72 Altro (L’) 60 Amarante 102 Ami 52 Ami Jean (L’) 60 Amici Miei 102 Andrea Crews 52 Andy Wahloo 51 Anthology Paris 85 Antoine & Lili 96 APC Rue Madame 64 APC Surplus 86 April 77 52 Arbre à Café (L’) 39 Archive 18-20 52 Arpège (L’) 60 Artazart 96 Artisan 84 Arty Dandy 64 As du Fallafel (L’) 48 Astier de Villatte 39 Atelier Beaurepaire 96 Atelier Couronnes 96 Ateliers Auguste 52 Atypyk 86 Au Passage 102 Aurélie Bidermann 64 Aux Deux Amis 106 Avant Comptoir (L’) 60 Avant Comptoir de la Mer (L’) 61 Avenue du Président Wilson Market 74 Avril Gau 64 Azzedine Alaia 74

116

B Bachaumont 34 Badaboum 106 Bague de Kenza (La) 107 Bal (Le) 82 Balades Sonores (Les) 86 Balenciaga 75 Balenciaga Men 64 Balibaris 96 Balice Hertling 92 Balmain 75 Balouga 52 Bar à Soupes (Le) 102 Bar du Marché (Le) 61 Bar du Plaza Athenée 74 Baratin (La) 92 Baron (Le) 74 Baron Rouge (Le) 102 Barthélémy 64 Batofar 106 Beans on Fire (The) 102 Beaucoup 49 Beef Club 34 Beef Club Ballroom 37 Belle Époque (La) 34 Belle-Îloise (La) 64 Belleville (China Town) 97 Benoît 49 Berthillon 52 BHV 53 Bistrot de Paris (Le) 61 Bistrot Paul Bert 103 Black Rainbow 53 Bless 53 Bleu de Paname 39 Blueberry 61 Bob’s Juice Bar 92 Bob’s Kitchen 49 Bois de Vincennes 109 Bon Georges (Le) 82 Bonaparte (Le) 61 Bon Marché (Le) 64 Bon Saint-Pourçain (Le) 61 Bonpoint 64 Bonton 53 Boot Café 49 Born Bad Records 107 Botte Gardiane (La) 107 Bottleshop 106 Bougainville (Le) 34 Bourse & La Vie (La) 34 Braisenville 82 Brasserie Barbès 82 Brasserie Flo 92

Brasserie Lipp 61 Bread & Roses 72 Holiday Café 73 Broken Arm (The) 53 Bugada & Cargnel 92 Buly 1803 64 Bus Palladium 84 Buttes Chaumont 97 Buvette 82 Buvette (La) 106 C Café (Le) 34 Café A 92 Café Beaubourg 49 Café Charbon 106 Café Constant 61 Café Craft 92 Café Etienne Marcel 34 Café Français 49 Café de Flore 61 Café de l’Industrie 103 Café Francoeur 82 Café Kitsuné 34 Café Le Nemours 35 Café Lomi 82 Café Marly 35 Café de la Nouvelle 61 Mairie Café Pinson 49 Café Suedois 49 Caféothèque (La) 49 Caffè Artcurial 72 Caffè dei Cioppi 103 Caffè Stern 35 Caillebotte 83 Candelaria 51 Cannibale (Le) 106 Cantine California 49 Cantine de la Cigale (La) 83 Cantine Merci (La) 49 Capucine 103 Caravane 19 107 Carmen 84 Carrousel du Louvre (Le) 39 Cartier 39 Carven 64 Carvil 75 Castel 63 Castor Club 62 Causse 39 Causses 83 Cave du Paul Bert (La) 103 Celia Darling 86

gogocityguides.com

Céline 75 Centre Commercial 96 Centre Pompidou 48 Chacha Club 38 Chambelland 107 Champeaux 35 Chanel Cambon 39 Chanel Montaigne 75 Chantal Thomass 39 Châteaubriand (Le) 103 Chatomat 92 Chez Aline 103 Chez Denise 35 Chez Georges 35 Chez Jeannette 95 Chez Maman 39 Chez Miki 35 Chez Monsieur (Royal Madeleine) 35 Chez Moune 84 Chez Prune 93 Chez Raspoutine 74 Chine Machine 86 Chloé 39 Chocolat Alain Ducasse (Le) 107 Chouettes (Les) 50 Christian Louboutin 39 Cinabre 96 Cinémathèque Française 102 Cire Trudon 64 Clamato 103 Claus 35 Climats (Les) 61 Clos Montmartre 87 Vineyard Clover 61 Clown Bar 103 Club 75 96 Coinstot Vino 35 Colette 40 Colette Water Bar 35 Come On Eileen 107 Comme des Garçons 75 Comme des Garçons Parfums 40 Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels (La) 63 Comptoir Générale (Le) 95 Concrete 106 Conserverie (La) 38 Copperbay 95 Cos 107 Courrèges 75


Index

By Tag AMERICAN Ralph’s 62 ART 104 (Le) 92 Bal (Le) 82 Balice Hertling 92 Bugada & Cargnel 92 Centre Pompidou 48 Espace Culturel Louis Vuitton 72 Fondation Cartier 60 Fondation Louis Vuitton 72 Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent 72 Gagosian Gallery 72 Gaîté Lyrique 48 Galerie Almine Rech 48 Galerie Armel Soyer 48 Galerie Crèvecoeur 92 Galerie du Jour agnès b 48 Galerie Kamel Mennour 60 Galerie Marian Goodman 48 Galerie Perrotin 48 Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac 48 Galerie UntilThen 82 Grand Palais (Le) 72 Jeu de Paume 34 108 Klin d’Oeil Louvre 34 Maison Européenne de la Photographie 48 Maison Rouge (La) 102 Monnaie de Paris 60 Musée d’Art Moderne 72 Musée de l’Orangerie 34 Musée d’Orsay 60 Musée Picasso 48 Musée Rodin 60 Palais de Tokyo 72 Polka 48 Sergeant Paper 55 Tampographe Sardon (Le) 92 Villa Vassilieff 60 Yvon Lambert Bookshop 55 ARTIST SUPPLIES Senellier 66 BAGS Agnelle 38 Ateliers Auguste 52 Avril Gau 64

Florian Denicourt 54 Goyard 40 Hermès 76 Isaac Reina 54 Jérôme Dreyfuss 65 La Contrie 41 Loewe 76 Louis Vuitton 76 L/Uniform 65 Olympia Le-Tan 42 Pierre Hardy 42 Verbreuil 67 BAR A la Folie 95 Andy Wahloo 51 Artisan 84 Au Passage 102 Aux Deux Amis 106 Avant Comptoir de la Mer (L’) 61 Bachaumont 34 Bains (Les) 51 Bar du Plaza Athenée 74 Beef Club Ballroom 37 Belle Époque (La) 34 Bottleshop 106 Brasserie Barbès 82 Buvette 82 Café Charbon 106 Candelaria 51 Cannibale (Le) 106 Carmen 84 Castor Club 62 Chez Jeannette 95 Chouettes (Les) 50 Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels (La) 63 Comptoir Générale (Le) 95 Conserverie (La) 38 Copperbay 95 Dépanneur (Le) 84 Dépanneur Terrasse (Le) 85 Dirty Dick 85 Eclaireur (L’) Boissy d’Anglas 75 Embuscade (L’) 85 Entrée des Artistes (L’) 85 Experimental Cocktail Club 38 Fanfaron (Le) 106 Fantôme (Le) 95 Faust 63 Féline (La) 95 Floréal (Le) 95

Flow 63 Glass 85 Grand Amour Hotel 93 Grand Pigalle (Le) 85 Harry’s Bar 38 Hotel Providence 93 Josephine 106 Kremlin (Le) 85 Ladurée 73 Lapérouse Bar 63 Little Red Door 51 Lockwood 36 Lone Palm 106 Loulou 36 Lulu White 85 Mabel 38 Ma Cocotte 83 Mano (La) 85 Mansart (Le) 85 Maroquinerie (La) 95 Mary Celeste (Le) 52 Mathis Bar 74 Méduse (La) 94 MiniPalais 73 Monsieur Bleu 73 Montana (Le) 63 Moonshiner 106 Motel (Le) 106 Moulin de la Vierge (Le) 37 Nautes (Les) 52 Palette (La) 62 Paname Brewing Company 96 Parisien (Le) 51 Pasdeloup 106 Pavillon Puebla 96 Perchoir (Le) 107 Perle (La) 52 Petit Fer à Cheval (Au) 52 Pigalle (Le) 85 Pigalle Country Club 85 Pop In 107 Prescription Cocktail Club 63 Red House 107 Rosa Bonheur sur Seine 63 Rosebud (Le) 63 Rubis (Le) 38 Saints Pères (Les) & 63 Don K Sans Souci (Le) 85 Scandale (Le) 85 Sherry Butt 52 Siseng 94 Syndicat Cocktail Club 96 Table du 8 (La) 74

Autumn Winter 16-17

Tape Bar (Le) 107 Tendre Voyou 84 Tigre (Le) 38 Titty Twister 74 Trabendo (Le) 96 Train Bleu (Le) 105 Très Honoré Bar 38 Triplettes 95 Twenty One Sound Bar 107 UC-61 74 Udo Bar 98 Wanderlust 107 Zéro Zéro (Le) 107 BEAUTY Buly 1803 64 Guerlain 75 Maison Dr Hauschka 109 Sephora 76 BEER Paname Brewing Company 96 BOOKS 7L 63 Artazart 96 Centre Pompidou 48 Galignani 40 OFR 54 Shakespeare & Company 66 WH Smith 43 Yvon Lambert Bookshop 55 BREAD Chambelland 107 Du Pain & des Idées 97 Moulin de la Vierge (Le) 37 Pain Quotidien (Le) 105 Poilâne 66 Ten Belles Bread 105 Terroirs d’Avenir 42 BREAKFAST Avant Comptoir (L’) 60 Bachaumont 34 Bar du Marché (Le) 61 Beans on Fire (The) 102 Berthillon 52 Bob’s Juice Bar 92 Bob’s Kitchen 49 Boot Café 49 Bougainville (Le) 34 Bourse & La Vie (La) 34 Brasserie Barbès 82 Brasserie Lipp 61

119


Notes

46


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Gogo City Guides Pinnacle House, 1st Floor, 31 Cross Lances Road, Hounslow, TW3 2AD. www.gogocityguides.com

Paris Bureau 6 rue Thorel, 75002 Paris, France Gogo City Guides is a digitally driven publishing company editing new-generation guides, in print and for iPhone, to London and Paris. Founding Editor : Kate van den Boogert, kate@gogocityguides.com Editorial Assistants : Michaela Breaux, Georgina Tewogbade, editorial@gogocityguides.com London Editor : Clodagh Kinsella, clodagh@gogocityguides.com Designed & Typeset by Justine Suillaud, www.justinesuillaud.com Cartography : Amanda Lewis, amanda@gogocityguides.com Thanks to : Amah Ayivi, Daniele Balice, Christelle Kocher, Alain Ducasse, Robin Meason, Alexandra Senes, Lee Tombeur, Christophe Vasseur. Find our complete list of stockists here: www.gogocityguides.com/stockists We cannot assume liability for any inaccuracies which may be contained in the information provided.


City Guides

Insider Guides to Go

Here is the essential edit of the 650+ hottest spots to eat, drink, shop and sleep in Paris this autumn and winter. Written by Gogo’s Paris team, the guide focuses on emerging local designers, independent boutiques, small neighbourhood bars, and dynamic new restaurants that no other guide knows about yet.   Gogo guides are updated twice a year, and feature a magazine section filling you in on the season’s cultural calendar, plus all the news and gossip everyone is talking about right now. We also invite a few of our remarkable friends to share their favourite places in Paris, and this new edition features completely revamped maps, with every address now cross-referenced with its own coordinates.  Gogo City Guides is a digitally driven company publishing new-generation print and iPhone guides to London and Paris. “Our favourite guide!” Colette, Paris “Arty, quirky and sharp.” Le Monde “An essential travel companion for those who like to stay in the know and off the beaten path.” coolhunting.com

ISBN 9782919474202

also by gogo city guides

9 782919 474202

Gogo Paris: Autumn/ Winter 2016-17 SAMPLE  

A condensed mash-up of the Autumn/ Winter 2016 edition of our Paris guide. www.gogocityguides.com

Gogo Paris: Autumn/ Winter 2016-17 SAMPLE  

A condensed mash-up of the Autumn/ Winter 2016 edition of our Paris guide. www.gogocityguides.com

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