Between The Wines september 2022
hidden Treasures
Hidden Treasures
Trends & observations
Vie di Romans In Northeast Italy, near the Slovenian border lie the hills of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The wines from here (along with those from nearby Also Adige) are generally considered to regularly produce many/most of Italy’s best white wines. It is such an ideal region for wine-growing that—unlike most other great regions/appellations, the regs allow for about a dozen varietals that thrive here to be sold under the DOC. Though the overall level of quality of the DOC & DOCG wines is very high, there is still a hierarchy of growers, and--surprise—today’s ‘Hidden Treasure’ estate is inarguably at the top level: Vie di Romans. Though the property has been in the family for over a century, the family didn’t start making their own wine until 1978. Patriarch Gianfranco Gallo has managed the estate since that time. They originally wanted to sell the wines under the family name… but it was already taken by a different Gallo family (!), so they opted to name the brand for a local, famous Roman Road that connects two of their estate vineyards—the ‘road of the Romans’.
Separate from the benign environment of mineral rich, alluvial soils and the climactic effects of the Dolomites, Vie di Romans winemaker Gianfranco is very, very technically adept, so the results are always among the past of the vintage. We offer three varietals from them—not inexpensive, but super values in their class: a piercingly vibrant Sauvignon Blanc, a lovely creamy yet lively Chardonnay, and what we think is one of the world’s greatest Pinot Grigio’s: Dessimis. And one of the most nimble food-friendly wines we’ve ever had. The color of the Dessimis is copper, but it is not a ‘ramato’ type of Pinot Grigio (a category getting tons of love lately). It is copper-colored for a different reason, and for those of you who care to know why, do to their website and click on the ‘in depth’ tab…fascinating reading. In the meantime, do yourself a favor and check out these fabulous wines!
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Quotation of the Month: “If you tasted a new wine variety each week, it would take you 40 years to try them all.”