Between The Wines July Edition

ISSUE #127

Between The Wines

GREAT LAKES WINE & SPIRITS July 2024

Hidden Treasures

When DuMol was founded in 1996, the proprietors were smart enough (or lucky enough) to make some very smart personnel decisions. Vineyards were being planted in some very auspicious sites—particularly in western Sonoma and Mendocino—so there was no shortage of good fruit to make great wine. But having the right team that shared a vision is easier said than done…but leadership at DuMol pulled it off.

Founding winemaker Max Gasewicz tragically passed in 1999 and ownership was blessed to be able to hire upand-coming consultant winemaker Paul Hobbs to step in to be interim winemaker. Paul’s key employee at the time was Scotsman Andy Smith. He so impressed the team, that he was named head winemaker in 2000.

Interestingly, Mr Smith also worked for Mr. Hobbs at another winery he consulted at: Larkmead Vineyards. He stayed on at Larkmead as an assistant, ultimately becoming head winemaker there as well (when did this guy sleep?). continued...

In this newsletter you can expect:

Hidden Treasures

What’s New

Thoughts & Observations

Hidden Treasures continued..

DuMol And unless our memory is wrong, to this day, Andy Smith is the only winemaker to receive 100 points from Robert Parker for a Cabernet (at Larkmead) and a Pinot Noir (at DuMol). But back to DuMol. Focusing on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (though they make GREAT Syrah, a special Cabernet and even a Chenin Blanc), the early cuvees were mostly that: cuvees of wines from different sites within a single appellation—usually with a soil-type or something that resonated. Today, a large number of their bottlings are vineyard designates—though they still make cuvees such as Chloe, Ryan, Finn and Wester Reach. All of the wines —as in all—are stunning, rich, yet balanced beauties.

Though they show well out of the gate, they have the balance and material to age gracefully.

These are not inexpensive wines… and they are worth every penny.

Treat yourself…

What’s New? Girlan We love the wines of Alto Adige. This moderately known region on Italy’s border with Austria is stunning geographically—it’s the heart of the Dolomites—but so too are the wines from here.

Known historically—and still so locally —as Sudtirol (south tyrol) this area was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until the end of World War I, but their side lost, so it became part of Italy in 1918. Because of this, not only is it unique compared to many other parts of Italy for its geography, it is also unique for another reason: most locals still speak German rather than Italian— even the road signs are in Italian and German.

As for the wines, they are mostly sold as varietal wines: Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco, Lagrein, Schiava, Pinot Noir, Cabernet & Merlot all thrive here, and all share the common trait of brightness and fresh acidity (we love high-altitude wines). Girlan’s wines display this desirable trait beautifully.

Note that like many of Alto Adige’s top producers, Girlan is a co-op. For those not familiar with co-ops, they are just as it sounds: co-operative wineries.

Since the size of the average vineyard holding is 2.5 acres, it wouldn’t be possible to produce a commercially viable lot, let alone being able to justify building a winery for the small amount of grapes those 2.5 acres would produce. So, families will chip in to build a community winery, hire a winemaker, pool their produce and voila, a viable brand.

Girlan was founded 100 years ago by 24 families. Today there are approximately 200 families in the association. They have become one of the most respected wineries in an area of great wineries. And PS they are super values.

The whites are awesome for sure, but you’ll be stunned by the Trattmann Pinot Noir.

Turn your clients on to these great wines!

Thoughts & Observations Modern Wine Lists We have opined on this before, but we’re noticing more and more that some of the coolest restaurants in Michigan are trotting out much smaller wine lists than was the norm previously. Along with that, they are being much more thoughtful & selective in what they choose to offer their guests. Three of our very favorite restaurants in the metro Detroit area have 12, 14, and 32 wines respectively. There are a few reasons for this.

First, of course is cost. Though of course a restaurant must have inventory to sell, tying up $20,000, $40,000, $60,000 in inventory—at a current 7% or 8% interest is quite an investment. And consumers are more aware of, and lately particularly sensitive, to prices. So whereas a restaurateur used to be able to sneak in some extra margins on their wines, their guests much more informed now…so a leaner inventory might be better. Also, spirits/cocktails are on a roll of late.

We’ve talked to several ‘fine dining’ operators that told us their beverage sales used to be 2/3 wine and 1/3 spirits, but now it is closer to 50/50 and spirits are on the ascendency. And finally, there truly is a growing interest in zero proof options. So, this all adds up to needing smaller lists.

Of course, there are still many exceptions to this trend: we have several favorites scattered throughout the state that have lists of 100 to 200 wines. We love the commitment/dedication/investment…and the options. At the end of the day, its not the size of the list, it’s the selections, the pricing, and having an—at least moderately—educated staff. Wine can still be a big money maker for restaurants when applied correctly. And we’re here to show you how.

eek Wine G GREAT LAKES WINE & SPIRITS

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