Between The Wines Between The Wines
September September 2023 2023
Hidden Hidden Treasures Treasures
We use this monthly feature to highlight wines which are hiding in plain sight (i.e., things we don’t sell as much of as the quality/price would indicate). Today it is Spanish legend CVNE
Campania Vinicola del Norte de Espana* has been family-owned since its founding in 1879. As with a few other prestigious wineries in Rioja, their initial success was tied to the devastation of the vineyards in nearby Bordeaux during the Phylloxera crisis. The Bordelaise came down to Rioja looking for replacement products and frankly advanced the level of winemaking there and, among other things, advocated for extended barrel ageing
in the hopes it would make it a more adequate substitute for Bordeaux. The winery’s proximity to the rail station in Haro meant their wines (Lopez de Heredia, Marquis di Riscal, and Muga similarly benefited) could easily be shipped north and they boomed during this period as a result Today they are a large operation (around 400,000 cases) and the biggest brand in their home country, producing several brands Cune, Vina Real, Imperial, and their iconic white, Monopole. Of course, due to their success, the company has now expanded beyond Rioja and now boasts wines from other regions in Spain: their Ribera del Duero project Bela must be the best value in that appellation. And they now have a stake in the ground in Spain’s most exciting, ‘rediscovered’ region: Galicia.
hidden Treasures
Thoughts & observations
What's New
quotation of the Month: "My only regret in life is that I did not drink more wine.“
Hemingway
-Ernest
Hidden Hidden Treasures Treasures
Between The Wines Between The Wines
September September 2023 2023
Continued... Continued...
The Virgen del Galir brand offers two exceptional wines from Valdeorras, a Godello and a Mencia that are absolute steals. As we point out frequently in this newsletter, it takes a bit more effort to find value in the wine world these days, and we are here to help. but for today, look no further than C.V.N.E.
*Yes, CVNE is an acronym for the company name. And one of the brands went by the same name. But somewhere along the way, the V was switched to a U and the name Cune was born. Even the name of their flagship brand now goes by the name: Cune
Thoughts & Thoughts & Observations Observations
‘The Continued Rise of No & Low
We keep reading that ‘Gen Z’ (born between 1996 & 2012), who are increasingly joining the Legal Drinking Age crowd are turning away from alcoholic beverages in significant numbers. For business reasons, we hope it is something they will ‘grow out of’, but to be fair, anyone & everyone should be able to live whatever they deem to be their best lives
Of course, because of this trend, more and more no-or-low options are coming our way. Over the past few years, we have tasted dozens and dozens of No-and-Low wines, and spirits. Unfortunately, many (most?) of them aren’t very impressive. And among the best of them (see our price book, page 100) we have yet to find any that have the same flavor profile and mouthfeel as the real thing. But that is understandable and OK. Though ostensibly the goal is to produce N/A products that mimic the real thing, its not realistic frankly. Because of this, the goal should not be to make a N/A gin that tastes just like gin, but instead to make a product that has a similar profile and that is interesting to drink; one should think of it more like a hack on gin. When served in a cocktail glass and properly garnished, one gets to join the party instead of being a party pooper.
We regularly try zero-proof cocktails as they are increasingly popping up on cocktail menus, and some of them are downright delicious. And Geek loves and crushes cans of Lyre’s awesome ‘Amalfi Spritz’ when at the beach; it makes standing up on the stand-up paddleboard much more attainable.
So, Gen Z or whatever the reason for the growth of these products, No-and-Low is here to stay. Jump in !
2 Fl Oz Lyre's Pink London Spirit
2 Fl Oz Lyre's Classico
1 Fl Oz Fever Tree tonic water or soda water or lemonade
5 raspberries or berry of choice
2 lemon slices
Method
Build all ingredients in glass with ice. Stir.
Glass
Large Wine Glass
*FOR A LOWER ALCOHOL OPTION, REPLACE 60ML LYRE'S CLASSICO WITH 60ML PREMIUM ITALIAN PROSECCO OF YOUR CHOICE
quotation of the Month:
"My only regret in life is that I did not drink more wine.“
-Ernest Hemingway
Between The Wines Between The Wines SSeptember eptember 22023 023
LYRE'S PINK LONDON SPRITZ
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Between The Wines Between The Wines
SSeptember eptember 22023 023
What's What's New
New Domaine de La Perruche
Certain wine appellations seem to have a special street cred with the nerdiest wine geeks out there Wines from Txakoli, Canary Islands, Etna, Slovenia, and … Loire Cabernet Franc are notable examples. Wines from this grape (a parent of Cabernet Sauvignon) are rarely produced as a mono-varietal, but the middle Loire is an exception, and they come in the form of Chinon, Saumur-Champigny, and Bourgueil
These Loire-produced Cabernet Francs are unique and in style are a 180 from those Bordeaux-blend bottlings where Cab Franc usually plays a minor role (with Chateau Cheval Blanc being a notable exception). They are typically leaner on the palate though can still show some tannin and they have an herbaceous-ness or green-ness about them due to the high level of pyrazines (a type of aroma compound). Poor versions can be ferociously green and hard, but when well made using ripe fruit from low-yielding vineyards they can be round and lush, showing gobs of black cherry and tobacco notes but always with notable acidity and a whiff of that green edge. Happily, we’ve just added two really cool renditions to our book: Domaine de La Perruche SaumurChampigny and La Perruche Chinon.
Domaine de La Perruche (Domaine of the Parakeets) produces three worldclass Saumur-Champignys, as well as Saumur (a white from Chenin Blanc). We carry their workhorse red: SaumurChampigny ‘Terroir of Chalk’…gorgeous. We’ve also added a Chinon: whereas the Saumur-Champigny comes from chalk & limestone soils and are lush and seductive, Chinon soils are sandier, producing lighter, prettier wines Though both wines share the quaint name, there is a point of difference (besides the villages they come from). The Domaine has been in business for several generations, and their 15th Century castle was immortalized in a story by Alexandre Dumas The Chinon from ‘La Perruche’ appears to be a ‘negoc’ wine produced by the Domaine, i.e., from purchased fruit. But it too has sleek lines and richness
As the prices of many wines continue to rise, we are all looking for alternatives that still offer value: we’ve found two for you here.
quotation of the Month:
"My only regret in life is that I did not drink more wine.“ -Ernest Hemingway
