Between The Wines Between The Wines JJuly uly 2023 2023
Hidden Hidden Treasures Treasures
What started out as a potato farm is now one of Michigan’s best wine estates.
In the mid-eighties, as Leelanau Peninsula’s potential for wine grapes was starting to swell, local realtor Dan Matthies asked Dr. Stanley Howell a noted Professor of Horticulture from Michigan State University to stop by and check out his farm. As should be no surprise to most reading this, Professor Howell deemed the farm a very promising site for wine grapes. And as they say, the rest is history
At the time, Dr. Howell usually advised northern Michigan growers to consider hybrid grapes since the jury was still out as to whether Vinifera grapes could consistently survive and thrive up there due to the cold winters -
(needless to say, this has been soundly dis-proven) But perhaps the Professor had seen the light at the time that Dan & wife Lucie (and son Doug) started planting in 1989 since they first planted Chardonnay, followed by 15 other varietals. In addition to the usual suspects Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc & Pinot Noir they also grow Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois, and Gruner Veltliner. We think their ‘Woodland White’ –from Auxerrois is one of Michigan’s best whites and a superb value Like most Michigan wineries, they are white wine specialists, but don’t skip their reds great values as well
Though all wineries need fruit to make wines, and better fruit means better wines, we think some producers lose sight of that. Not the Matthies. A great quote by Dan when asked about his winemaking philosophy says it all: ‘I have a philosophy. It’s a short one. My philosophy on winemaking is this; I have a partner. Her name is Mother Nature. If Mother Nature helps me grow good grapes, we are going to make great wines’
We agree And we think you should look beyond your current Michigan wine playbook and play with the wines of Chateau Fontaine
hidden Treasures
Thoughts & observations
What's New
quotation of the Month:
"Good wine praises itself " - Dutch Proverb
Thoughts & Thoughts & Observations Observations
Vintage Schmintage
‘Vintage variation’ is the thing that makes premium wine so special, so alluring and sometimes so frustrating. Of course, wines like Sutter Home Chardonnay and Barefoot Pinot Grigio do tend to taste almost identical from vintage to vintage---that’s what their consumers are looking for and thus, what their winemakers try to achieve. But for the vast majority of wines, since the raw materials are dependent on Mother Nature, we deal with slightly different wine every year. We bring this up since we recently were taken aback when discussing with a specific wine with a client and they stated: “it tastes different than last year, so I’ll pass”. We said: “of course it tastes different, that’s the beauty of wine”. But, alas, they were unconvinced. Note, we were not discussing a high-end Napa Cabernet Sauvignon or a Barolo destined for someone’s cellar: we were discussing a mid-priced Central Coast Pinot Noir. Santa Barbara is a pretty benign place to grown wine grapes, and though indeed there are vintage differences, there are rarely if ever vintage disasters there.
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So…though of course we respect our clients wishes and opinions, we sincerely think one is missing the point and some great wines if they seek sameness. Happily, we have a wine for everyone's palate here in house!
quotation of the Month:
"Good wine praises itself." - Dutch Proverb
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What's What's New New Villa Pereire
Charles Krug Winery an historic Napa winery owned by a branch of the Mondavi family is a member of Napa Valley’s old guard. This is the winery that was owned by Robert Mondavi’s father, and where he honed his skills before leaving to start his own winery in 1966. Still located in its original home, not prone to putting up $100,000 art installations on its grounds, nor do they have only Master Sommeliers running their tasting room. This is old school; it reminds us of the Napa Valley of the 70’s and 80’s.
Though they are not flashy, they are not unaware of trends in the industry, and this new project confirms that. As Napa prices continue their march to the stratosphere, the Mondavi’s recognize that they need to ‘backfill’ and come up with products at more reserved price points (note that they also produce C.K. Mondavi wines, so they know the power of value). Villa Pereire is an import portfolio of French wines which they have put together with a French partner. Just three items at this point, all classics: Bordeaux blanc, Bordeaux rouge, and a Cotes du Rhone. All are correct and delicious and all three retail for around $20.
We think it is a brilliant move and we look forward to growing this new portfolio with them. Give them a try!
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