Between The Wines January 2023
Hidden Treasures Wines from Alsace are great. They’ve always been great frankly. And they have long been referred to by most wine writers as ‘under-rated’ and ‘under-represented’. For a little while in the 80’s and 90’s these wines were downright fashionable, mostly because of one person (well, maybe two): Olivier Humbrecht of Domaine Zind Humbrecht. With his freshly minted ‘Master of Wine’ (received in 1989—the first Frenchman to earn the title), Olivier took over the family domaine and the quality and notoriety of their wines soared. It didn’t hurt that Robert Parker—then at the peak of his influence—was in love with Olivier and his wines. Happily, all these years later, the Z-H wines are as good as ever. Focusing on site-specific cuvees— including several bottlings from Grand Cru sites—Z-H offers something for just about everyone— various styles, varietals, levels of sweetness—a virtual masterclass in white wines from Alsace (they make almost zero red wine).
hidden Treasures Trends & observations It is worth noting also that Olivier was among the very first wineries in the world to fully embrace biodynamic viticulture, a practice now routinely practiced by many of the world’s leading wine estates. Olivier was also on the leading edge (20+ years ago) of having a ‘sweetness scale’ on the label for Alsace wines, something required by law commencing with the 2021 vintage (global warming means some wines will be either 16% alcohol or have a bit of residual sugar…the scale lets buyers know what to expect). And the wines are very fairly priced, considering the quality and stature these wines represent.
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Quotation of the Month: “Best friends don't care if your house is clean. they care if you have wine."