Globerovers Magazine July 2015

Globerovers

Feature Article

8 Northern Pakistan’s Gilgit-Baltistan

At the northern tip of Pakistan, immediately south of Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor and the wild frontier of China’s Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, is the autonomous territory of Gilgit-Baltistan. It lies at the confluence of three of the world’s most impressive mountain ranges: the Himalayas, the Karakoram, and the Hindu Kush. Five of the “eight-thousanders” (peaks above 8,000 m) are located here with another 50+ peaks above 7,000 m. This remote area is also known for its glaciers, turquoise lakes, and friendly people.

ARTICLES

Terracotta Warriors of Xiʼan, China

Interred for more than 2,150 years, the “Terracotta Warriors and Horses” is a large collection of terracotta (clay-based unglazed ceramic) sculptures depicting the armies of Qin Shi Huang Di.

Kyiv (Kiev), Ukraine

Kyiv is a bustling city that continues its struggle to shed the Russians. It is loaded with incredible architecture, parks, good entertainment and food, and some very beautiful people.

Gran Canaria, Canary Islands

Located in the North Atlantic Ocean o the west coast of Africa, the Gran Canaria Island is one of several in the Canary Islands group. Sun, sea, sand dunes, beaches, and Spanish culture!

Swedenʼs Ice Hotel

In the far north of Sweden a winter hotel rises and falls every year. Check into a themed room made of snow and decorated with unique works of ice-carved art, where a constant -5°C o ers a cool night sleep.

PHOTO ESSAYS

Nepalʼs Architectural Marvels

Syria Prior to the Civil War

Russiaʼs Veliky Novgorod

Papua New Guinea Sing-Sing

ARTICLES

SPECIAL FEATURES

Sensible Travel Gear

Tasty Travellerʼs Treats

CONTRIBUTIONS

Village Life: Greyton, South Africa

Thanakhar Faces of Myanmar

3 Beloved Spices of Southern Iran

Reports from Central Asia

Super Traveller Spotlight

Traveller Spotlight

Book Review

TOP LISTS

9 Experiences in Northern Pakistan

10 Countries for Sacred Architecture

10 Experiences in Syria

6 Brilliant Travel Blogs

NEXT ISSUES: SPECIAL PREVIEW Japan and the Tohoku Festivals

In the upcoming issues of Globerovers Magazine, check out Japan and its northern Tohoku colourful festivals on Honshu Island, as well as Bolivia, China’s Xinjiang Province, Armenia, Romania, the Mayan ruins of the America’s, and many more!

Passu Hanging Bridge, Hunza Valley, Pakistan

ON THE COVER:

Minapin Glacier, Gilgit-Baltistan

northern Pakistan

Globerovers Magazine

currently is a biannual magazine, available in digital and printed formats. We focus on bringing to the intrepid traveller exciting destinations and inspiring photography from around the globe.

Published in Hong Kong

Printed in U.S.A.

WHO WE ARE:

Editor-in-Chief - Peter Steyn

Editorial Consultant - Tsui Chi Ho

Graphic Designer - Peter Steyn

Photographer & Writer - Peter Steyn

Text Editor - Janet-Lynn Vorster

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Editor’s Message

“Not all those who wander are lost.” J.R.R. Tolkien John Tolken (3 Jan 1892 – 2 Sep 1973), an English writer, poet, philologist, university professor, and author of ‘The Hobbit’, and ‘Lord of the Rings’.

Dear Readers,

In this h issue of Globerovers Magazine, we are pleased to bring you a variety of exciting destinations and other reading enjoyment.

e feature destination is the remote, but spectacular mountainous region of Gilgit-Baltistan in northern Pakistan. e region is packed with some of the world’s highest mountain peaks, longest glaciers, most turquoise glacial lakes, petroglyphs, friendly people, succulent food & fruits, and the world’s coldest desert with high sand dunes! Come along and enjoy Pakistan!

Other articles cover China’s Terracotta Warriors near Xi’an, Ukraine’s Kyiv, the sunny Canary Islands, and Sweden’s Ice Hotel near the Arctic Circle.

We have Photo Essays of Nepal’s architectural marvels prior to the devastating earthquakes earlier this year, as well as Syria before the outbreak of the current civil war. Other destinations are Russia’s Veliky Novgorod and the colourful Sing-Sing Festival in the highlands of Papua New Guinea.

A very special thank you to our contributors who we introduce on the next page. Special thanks to JanetLynn Vorster, our text editor, for her meticulous work.

Please visit our websites www.globerovers.com, www.globerovers-magazine.com, and our Pinterest and Facebook pages. See QR codes on p. 149. Share your feedback at editor@globerovers.com.

I travel so you can see the world!

Peter Steyn Editor-in-Chief and Publisher

Our Contributors in this issue...

Jean & Rudi Nägele, GERMANY (p. 184)

Jean and Rudi are our Super Travellers in the Spotlight. Rudi has visited all 193 UN countries plus the Vatican, Taiwan and Palestine, while Jean is still short of Cuba, and the elusive Libya. We’re having a Q&A with these two amazing travellers to learn more about their experiences from across the world. Rudi has a massive spreadsheet on which he meticulously recorded all the details of their travels. Amazing people!

Jonathan Tindale, NEW ZEALAND (p. 189)

Jon Tindale of New Zealand talks about his new book, Squashed Possums, which he describes as “the story of the iconic New Zealand lone caravan and one young man’s misadventures in New Zealand’s most remote corner. Its about what it’s like to live in a true wilderness, with nothing but the four tin walls of a solitary caravan for company and shelter”. e story is actually narrated by the caravan itself!

Janet-Lynn Vorster, SOUTH AFRICA (p. 62)

In our regular feature, Village LIFE, Janet-Lynn tells us about life in the small town of Greyton, located in the Overberg region of South Africa’s Cape province. Her colourful rendition of life here makes one yearn to visit: “Greyton is home to some of the nest food you will ever eat, wonderful ambiences, accompanied by local wines and beers that are world class”.

Rana Zia Ebrahimi, IRAN (p. 114)

As a resident of Kerman, capital city of the Kerman province located in the northern part of southern Iran, Rana tells us about three of the most beloved spices in this part of the world: sa ron, cumin, and sumac. e Iranians sure know how to cook great food, and Rana is an excellent cook herself who knows her spices and how to use them!

Masato Aoyama, RUSSIA (p. 188)

Masato is one of our Travellers in the Spotlight and our Q&A reveals many interesting facts about his travels. Born and raised in Japan, Masato is currently based in Moscow from where he travels around the world when time permits. He has travelled to some fascinating places! With his great memories of Kazakhstan, he strongly recommends people to visit.

Fabio Buonsanti, ITALY (p. 150)

Fabio is from Matera in the Basilicata region of southern Italy but currently living in Oslo, Norway. He reports on his recent trip to Central Asia travelling through Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Uzbekistan, and Kazakhstan. He declared that despite all of these countries being special in their own way, Tajikistan is the country that most impressed him. Awesome!

Min Than Htut, MYANMAR (p. 74)

Based in Yangon, the largest city in Myanmar (Burma), Min is a young entrepreneur involved in the booming inbound travel industry. One of the most enduring memories of visitors to Myanmar is the friendly thanakhar painted faces. Min tells us about this interesting part of his culture and shares the how’s and why’s of applying thanakhar paste on their faces.

Francis Tsui, HONG KONG (p. 188)

Our other Travellers in the Spotlight is Francis who lives in Hong Kong. As an avid traveller who has been to places such as Syria, South Africa, and Papua New Guinea, he revealed in our Q&A that his most favourite countries are Iceland, Japan, New Zealand, Turkey, and Russia. He speaks Cantonese, Mandarin, Japanese and Russian which is helpful when travelling.

PAPUA NEW GUINEA Page 166

Minapin Glacier (3,440 m) is surrounded by some of the highest mountain peaks in the world: Rakaposhi (7,788 m), Diran (7,257 m), Hachindar Chish (7,163 m), and Ultar Peak (7,329 m)

GILGIT-BALTISTAN

A remote mountainous region in the far north of Pakistan known for high snow capped peaks, glaciers, lakes, rivers and more.

hen we think about Pakistan, people generally have impressions of terrorism, natural disasters, poverty, and many other negative connotations. However, setting these aside, we also have visions of natural beauty, friendly people, tasty food, colourful festivals, lasting traditions, and many more.

I recently planned a trip to northern Iraq. Due to increased insurgence in the area, I decided to change direction to northern Pakistan. I gured that Pakistan was relatively safer than northern Iraq at the time. While much of Pakistan is not necessarily safe at any time, I decided to let the good triumph over the bad, so I embarked on my Pakistan excursion.

WWhile Pakistan is a very diverse country with great natural beauty, it is the mountainous region in the north which has always captured my imagination. At the con uence of three mountain ranges: the Himalayas, the Karakoram, and the Hindu Kush, lies Pakistan’s northernmost regionthe autonomous territory of Gilgit-Baltistan.

To the north-northwest of Gilgit-Baltistan lies a small portion of Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor “pan-handle”. Tajikistan is just a short hop north across the Wakhan Corridor. To the northnortheast is the wild frontier of China’s Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region. e Indian-administered Jammu and Kashmir borders to the southeast, and further south are the Pakistaniadministered states of Azad Jammu and Kashmir. Geographically this region is untamed, remote, and perfectly suited for the intrepid traveller!

MOUNTAINS

Gilgit-Baltistan is best known as the home of many of the world’s highest mountain peaks. Five of the “eight-thousanders” (peaks above 8,000 m) are located in the region, with another 50+ peaks above 7,000 m. e planet’s second highest peak, K2 (Mount Godwin-Austen), is located here, while the most feared peak among mountaineers, Nanga Parbat, is also in the region.

e main mountain ranges are the Karakoram and the western Himalayas. Further north along Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor and Tajikistan lie the Pamir Mountains, while the Hindu Kush (home of Tirich Mir Peak at 7,708 m) lies to the

northwest along the Afghanistan border. Nanga Parbat (8,126 m) is in the Diamir District, while east along the western Himalayas in the Skardu District is some incredible mountain scenery. Other high peaks are K2 (8,611 m), Broad Peak (8,051 m), the Gasherbrums (7,932 - 8,080 m), and Masherbrum (7,821 m).

GLACIERS

In addition to the majestic snow capped peaks dotting the landscape of GilgitBaltistan, the region is also known for its spectacular glaciers. In fact, three of the world’s longest glaciers outside the North and South Polar regions can be found in Gilgit-Baltistan: the Biafo Glacier (67

HIGHLIGHTS of GILGIT-BALTISTAN

Spectacular flight from Islamabad to Gilgit

The hour-long fight from Islamabad to Gilgit on Pakistan International Airways (PIA), aboard their French-Italian manufactured ATR 42 twin-turboprop aircraft, offers an eagle-view over the majestic mountains of Pakistan’s northernmost region.

Home to five of the >8,000 m peaks

Gilgit-Baltistan is home to fve of the world’s “eight-thousanders” (peaks above 8,000 m) with another 50+ peaks rising above 7,000 m. The planet’s second highest peak, K2, is also located here.

Over 5,200 glaciers

The region is known for its spectacular glaciers with three of the world’s longest glaciers outside the North and South Polar regions located in Gilgit-Baltistan.

Over 2,000 glacial lakes

With so many glaciers, there must be many glacial lakes, most of which are turquoise blue and surrounded by snow capped mountains and glaciers.

Ancient rock art and petroglyphs

It is estimated that more than 50,000 pieces of petroglyphs and rock inscriptions, dating back to between 5000 BC and 1000 BC, are dotted along the famous Karakoram Highway (KKH) in the Gilgit-Baltistan region.

Friendly people with colourful traditions

Gilgit-Baltistan is home to more than two million people of diverse ethnic, linguistic and religious groups.

World’s highest and coldest desert

The Skardu Desert is known as the world’s highest and coldest desert, where winter temperatures can dip down to -25°C.

Some of the scariest mountain roads

The one hour jeep ride from Raikot Bridge to the village of Tato is one of the world’s scariest mountain roads for many good reasons.

km), the Baltoro Glacier (63 km), and the Batura Glacier (57 km). e International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD) estimates that Pakistan is home to around 5,218 glaciers with a total coverage of about 15,000 sq. km.

Most of the glaciers are located in the Karakorum Mountain range with almost 37% of the area being under glacial ice.

Siachen Glacier (76 km), the world’s second longest glacier, is located in Indianclaimed territory and runs along the disputed India-Pakistan line of control in the eastern Karakoram Mountain range. e glacier’s altitude ranges from as high as 5,753 m at its head at Indira Col and down to 3,620 m in the lower reaches at the China border. e world’s third longest glacier, the Biafo Glacier, also lies in the Karakoram Mountain range. And the list goes on with many more of the world’s greatest and longest glaciers located across the region.

GLACIAL LAKES

Looking to swim in a glacial lake? Pakistan is the place! It is estimated that Gilgit-Baltistan is home to more than 2,000 glacial lakes - many that have not been explored.

Some of the most impressive high-altitude lakes are located in the eastern Skardu area: Sheosar Lake, Satpara Tso Lake, Katzura Tso Lake, and Phoroq Tso Lake. Also, Biafo Glacier (the world’s third longest at 67 km) meets the Hispar Glacier (49 km) at the famous Snow Lake at a height of 5,128 m. is created the world’s longest glaciated highway (100 km) which stretches from Askole in the Shigar Valley all the way to Hispar in the Nagar Valley of Gilgit Baltistan.

PETROGLYPHS

Interested in ancient rock art and petroglyphs? Gilgit-Baltistan has it and some are very easily accessible from the famous Karakoram Highway (KKH).

Some geologists estimate that more than 50,000 pieces of petroglyphs and rock inscriptions are dotted along the KKH in the Gilgit-Baltistan region. Most are concentrated at ten major sites along the 280 km route between Shatial in the south and the Hunza Valley to the north.

Created by pilgrims, traders, invaders and locals alike, some of the earliest carvings date back to between 5000 BC and 1000 BC. Likely carved with stone tools, the carvings include drawings of humans, animals, and people hunting animals.

PEOPLE

e total population of the Gilgit-Baltistan region is over two million souls. Due to the historic isolation of valleys separated by inaccessible mountains, the region developed people that are very diverse linguistically, ethnically and adhering to many religious sects.

ese glaciers are enormous sources of fresh water. e melting glaciers feed fresh water to more than 60 large and small rivers in Pakistan. As the glaciers are retreating due to climatic changes and global warming, their beauty won’t be around forever! Some conservative estimates are that these glaciers will retreat by another 40-60 metres over the next decade.

e main religious groups include the Shias (35%), Sunnies (35%), Ismailis (25%), and the Noorbakhshia (5%). e ethnic groups include the Shins, Burushos, Yashkuns, Kashmiris, Kashgaris, Pamiris, Pathans, and the Indus Kohistanis.

Most people in the region speak Urdu which is the lingua franca of the region. Other common languages are Balti, Shina, Burushaski, Khowar, Wakhi, and to a lesser extent, Punjabi, Pashto, Kashmiri Domaaki and Gojri

DESERT

Gilgit-Baltistan is home to the Skardu Desert which is known as the world’s highest and coldest desert where winter temperatures can dip down to -25°C. At an altitude of more than 3,000 m, few people venture into this remote area. It has been described as “a desert surrounded by a valley that is covered with lush green vegetation where you can walk around a

While most visitors to Gilgit-Baltistan come for the majestic snow capped mountains and its accompanying glaciers and lakes, the region offers much more...

green paradise which suddenly meets a barren desert from where you can see the snow-capped mountain peaks towering high above miles of sand dunes”.

FRUITS

Gilgit-Baltistan produces about 75% of Pakistan’s apricots. Other succulent fruits grown here are cherries, apples, plums, peaches, blueberries, mulberries, and honey melons.

FESTIVALS

As polo is the most popular sport in Gilgit-Baltistan, one of the best festivals to attend is the annual three day “Polo on the Roof of the World” (also known as the “Shandur Polo Festival of Pakistan”) held during the second week of July.

e matches are played in the town of Skandur Top between the home teams of Gilgit and Chitral as well as teams from other regions. Situated at 3,719 m, it is the highest, and likely the most remote, polo grounds in the world. e polo festival also includes local folk music and dancing. Accommodation is available in a temporary camping village.

However, for those of us more interested in colourful folky festivals with an abundance of photographic opportunities, head 360 km west to the town of Chitral near the border of Afghanistan. e town of Chitral is located in the Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa province immediately west of Gilgit-Baltistan.

e Kalash people, a Dardic indigenous group of the Indo-Iranian branch, speak the Kalasha language and are adherents of Islam and their own Kalash religion. e Kalash people are known for their festivals adorned with colourfully dressed beautiful women. e four main festivals of the Kalash are the Joshi festival (May), the Phoo and Uchau festivals (autumn), and the Chawmos festival (midwinter).

Gilgit, gateway to the far north

e capital of the Gilgit-Baltistan region is the town of Gilgit, which is the largest town on the Karakoram Highway before reaching the China border.

While a private vehicle from Pakistan’s capital, Islamabad, can make the journey north to Gilgit via the Karakoram Highway in about 15 hours (12 hours via Naran in the Kaghan Valley), public busses take about 18 hours as they leave Islamabad throughout the a ernoon and arrive midmorning on the next day.

By far the most convenient, yet always risky of last minute cancellation, is the hour-long ight on Pakistan International Airways (PIA). PIA usually has two scheduled ights per day, departing in the early morning, on a French-Italian manufactured ATR 42 twin-turboprop aircra .

Due to extreme weather changes in the north, ight delays or even cancellations are a normal and frequent occurrence. No wonder there have been no serious accidents and incidents on this ATR 42 aircra route.

e town of Gilgit is situated along the Gilgit River and is surrounded by stunning mountain scenery. Giltgit makes an excellent central base from where to arrange trips in all directions: to the

north lies the Hunza Valley; to the east and southeast is the Central Karakoram National Park which includes the beauty around Skardu; to the south lies the Deosai National Park and the lush Kaghan Valley; and, to the west is the Shandur National Park.

Venturing further west, beyond the boundaries of Gilgit-Baltistan, is the Chitral District of the Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa province with its colourful Kalash people.

erefore, it makes perfect sense to use Gilgit as a base from where to explore the entire northern areas of Pakistan.

Hotels in Gilgit are plentiful and several local attractions are worth visiting, such as the Gilgit Bridge over the Gilgit River and the authentic bazaars. A few attractions outside town can be visited on day trips, such as the Kargah Buddha (a rock engraving of Buddha from the 7th century AD), the monument of Taj Mughal, the Naltar Valley, and many interesting one or two day trekking routes.

A few weeks or months before arriving in Gilgit, get in touch with one of the most experienced and professional guides of the Gilgit-Baltistan region. Nasir Ahmed has been a resident of Gilgit for many years and knows the entire area very well. He specialises in personally taking out individuals or small groups into any direction.

Nasir is well connected in the region to arrange anything and everything that trekkers of all expertise require. If he is not available to do personal guiding at any speci c time, he will arrange for a friend to stand in for him. However, he will still be involved in the planning of the trip. (See end of the article for his contact details).

Arrange a guide with a proven reputation a few weeks before arriving in Gilgit.

See p. 33 for contact details

The road leading north from Gilgit goes along the Hunza River in the Hunza Valley. Several tunnels and bridges are passed. Landslides sometimes lead to the closure of sections of the road

Lower Hunza Valley

e Karakoram Highway to the northeast follows the ow of the Gilgit River though the Nagar Valley in the Karakoram Mountains where it is called the Hunza River.

Just over an hour of scenic driving along this route passes the small town of Ghulmat. Stop just before the small bridge from where to get the best views of Rakaposhi Peak on a clear day.

Rakaposhi, meaning “Snow Covered”, ranks as the 27th highest mountain peak in the world and 12th highest in Pakistan. However, what places Rakaposhi at the top of its class, is its sheer slopes.

With its summit at 7,788 m above sea level, it has an unbroken slope and almost straight vertical rise of 5,838 m from where the bridge is located at 1,950 m above sea level. Looking up at a mountain slope almost 6 km higher from where you stand is a surreal experience!

Rakaposhi Peak towers almost 6 km high right in front of your eyes!

Starting in 1938, a number of attempts have been made to conquer Rakaposhi’s summit. A er a few unsuccessful attempts, the rst success came in 1958 when a British-American expedition led by Mike Banks and Tom Patey reached the summit via the south-west ridge. Since then, less than half of all attempts to reach the summit have been successful.

Another 7 km north of Ghulmat lies the small quaint village of Minapin Nagar.

In season (June/July), the succulent apricots and cherries are ripe, while the families work on the paddies to bring in the rice harvest.

Book in at the Diran Guest House and enjoy the fruits in the garden. Walk around the village and mingle with the rather

From this stream at Ghulmat Village the steep slope to the summit of Rakaposhi is almost 6 km

reserved residents. Have a good night’s sleep but rise early and leave the hotel at 5 am for the 5.5-hour hike up to Minapin Glacier.

returning to the village before the arrival of the harsh winter. A er about 4 hours of hiking, the lower foot of the glacier comes into view. e upper section of the foot is bright white and where it leaves the main glacier the ice-peaks jut out high above the crevasses.

memory le many times during the rest of your life. However, you may just want to sit here for the rest of your life, but you can’t, so pick up your backpack and hiking stick and keep moving.

Minapin Glacier lies at about 3,440 m above sea level while the Diran Guest House is at about 2,000 m. is leaves a 1.6 km vertical hike over a 5.5 hour period.

For the rst two hours of hiking the ascent is quite vertical and tough. e hiking trail is steep and passes some beautiful grassy areas from where the views over the Hunza Valley are absolutely stunning. You will pass several goats and their keepers who bring their animals up into the mountains during the summer months. ey will stay here and sleep in rustic old shacks before

e last hour of hiking goes along a small hiking trail up the hill next to the massive glacier. Soon the Rakaposhi-Diran ridge line comes into sight as you arrive at the massive Minapin theatre surrounded by some of the highest peaks in the world: Rakaposhi (7,788 m), Diran (7,257 m), Hachindar Chish (7,163 m), and Ultar Peak (7,329 m).

Stop. Put down you hiking stick and backpack. Sit down and take a well-deserved rest. Gaze out over this vast theatre of a massive glacier surrounded by several towering snow-capped peaks. Listen to the river of crystal clear water running above and under the glacier. Listen to the cracking of the glacial ice. O en you will hear thunder coming from large pieces of ice breaking o the peaks and plunging down onto the glacier. Imprint this moment into your mind because you need to recall this

Once you arrive on the lush green mini plateau right next to the glacier, and in the shadows of the majestic Rakaposhi, set up your tent and take a well-deserved rest. Your guide and cook will immediately start the re to warm up a lovely soup with fresh baked bread from the village.

A er lunch stay close to your guide as you explore this massive glacier. You will walk all over the glacier in all directions but never leave the side of your guide as the last thing you want is to slip and slide down a deep crevasse. In summer and autumn, the melting glacier creates mini rivers of water owing on the surface. Further down towards the foot of the glacier the surface rivers divert to ow under the glacier and then into a larger stream which eventually ows into the Hunza River down at the Hunza Valley. At night you most likely will be awakened by the sound of cracking glacier ice or even by the thunder of avalanches and falling chunks of ice.

Spend a night or two and then return by the same route back to Minapin Nagar.

The small green plateau next to Minapin Glacier offers space to erect tents from where the glacier and the mountains can be explored

During summer and autumn streams of water from the melting ice fow on the surface of Minapin Glacier. Near the foot of the glacier the streams submerge to later emerge again and eventually fow into the Hunza River down in the valley

The Baltic Fort in Karimabad dates back more than 700 years but it has been rebuilt and altered numerous times over the years

Central Hunza Valley

From Minapin Nagar the road towards the north passes the village of Murtazaabad before entering the Central Hunza Valley, which stretches roughly from Murtazaabad in the south, up north to Attabad where the “new Attabad Lake” wall is.

is part of the Hunza Valley is mainly inhabited by the Burusho people who speak their Burushaski language. While today the original Burushaski language remains fairly intact, a non-speaker can pick up loanwords from English, Urdu, Persian, and from the neighbouring Dardic languages such as Shina and Khowar.

e main town in the Central Hunza Valley is Karimabad, which is about an hour drive north of Minapin Nagar. From here several high peaks are visible. Most impressive are Rakaposhi (7,788 m), Ultar Sar (7,388 m), Diran Peak (7,266 m), Bublimating-Lady nger Peak (6,000 m), and Spantik (7,027 m) which is also known as Golden Peak.

Karimabad is also home to the ancient Baltit Fort with a community known as the Domaki people who live in the immediate vicinity named Mominabad.

e Baltic Fort was founded in the 1st century and has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2004. While the foundations of the fort date back more

than 700 years, it has been rebuilt and altered numerous times over the years.

During the 16th century, the new bride of the local prince brought in cra smen to renovate it in a Balti style which clearly shows strong Buddhist Tibetan in uences.

e last occupant of the fort was the ‘Mir of Hunza’ - the ruler of the Hunza Valley. He moved his family out in 1945.

With the initiative of the Royal Geographical Society of London and with the nancial support of the Aga Khan Trust for Culture Historic Cities Support Programme, extensive renovations were completed in 1996.

e fort is now a lovely museum with some very knowledgeable guides.

e current Aga Khan (a name used by the Imam of the Nizari Ismailis since 1818) is His Highness Aga Khan IV (78). As one of the world’s ten richest royals, the Aga Khan Trust is very actively involved in development projects in Africa, Asia, and the Middle East. It’s been reported that the Trust allocates about US$600 million per year to philanthropy.

e views from the Baltic Fort of the Hunza Valley are impressive! Book into Karimabad’s Al Barkat Hotel where most

balconies have great views of the valley and peaks.

is is cherry and apricot heaven, so if you are here in July you will have ample fruits to eat.

Just about 3 km southeast of the Baltit Fort along the banks of the Hunza River is the village of Altit, famous for the Altit Fort. Altit is the birthplace of the Hunza Kingdom and the Altit Fort is the oldest fort still standing in all of Gilgit-Baltistan. Built on a sheer rock-cli that falls 300 m into the Hunza River, the fort was the original home of the Mir of Hunza before the family moved to the somewhat newer Baltit Fort. With its sharp drop-o into the river, the fort was not only highly defensible against enemies from outside, but was apparently also ideal to get rid of enemies from within!

e Altit Fort with it’s imposing tower is estimated to be between 800 and 1,100 years old, which makes it about 50 to 100 years older than the Baltit Fort.

e Aga Khan Trust and the Government of Norway nancially supported recent renovations which were completed in 2007. e quaint village around the base of the fort has been upgraded with nancial support from the Japanese Government.

Back on the Karakoram Highway, on the west banks of the Hunza River close to Karimabad, are the Sacred Rocks of Hunza. Located at a place called Haldeikish are some of the many carved rocks of the Hunza Valley. Many of the inscriptions on the rocks are carved in the Kharosthi language and include names of Buddhist pilgrims and merchants. It also shows a portrait of a Kushan king in Central Asian dress with the name “Gondophernes” written in Kharosthi.

Other inscriptions are written in Sogdian, Brahmi, Sarada and Proto Sarada languages. Names of Emperors appear, as well as drawings of local life including people and animals.

Petroglyphs outside Karimabad date back to between 5000 BC and 1000 BC. It is estimated that more than 50,000 pieces of these rock inscriptions are dotted along the famous Karakoram Highway

The Baltic Fort in Karimabad is perched high above the town with stunning views over the Hunza Valley

Altit Fort is the birthplace of the Hunza Kingdom and is the oldest fort still standing in all of Gilgit-Baltistan

Altit Fort standing high above the Hunza River

Inside the Altit Fort is furniture that dates back many years and give an idea of life in this fort

Coloured glass windows of the Baltit Fort

Upper Hunza Valley (Gojal Valley)

Commonly referred to as the Gojal Valley, the upper Hunza Valley stretches from the new Attabad Lake all the way north to the Khunjerab Pass on the border with China’s Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region.

A forty minute drive north of Karimabad, in the southern section the Gojal Valley, is Attabad Lake.

is new lake was naturally created just a few years ago. On January 4 in 2010, a massive landslide at Attabad Village killed twenty people and blocked the ow of the Hunza River for the next ve months.

e ooding displaced about 6,000 Wakhi and Burushaski speaking minority ethnic people from upstream villages. ousands were stranded without any land transportation as the ooding inundated over 19 km of the Karakoram Highway.

e lake reached a length of 21 km and a

depth of over 100 m by June 2010. By the time the new lake reached its peak, about 240 houses, 135 shops, four hotels, two schools, four factories, and several hundred acres of agricultural land had been submerged.

At time of writing (July 2015), which is ve and a half years since the landslide, the Karakoram Highway still terminates at the landslide point from where all people and goods are loaded onto small rickety boats for the 45 min trip up to the northern tip of the lake near the village of Gulmit.

From here the Karakoram Highway continues all the way up to the China border.

With the help of the Chinese government, a series of road tunnels around the lake are being constructed. e new road is expected to open by the end of 2015.

e Karakoram Highway will forever be submerged at the bottom of the lake, unless the landslide-wall breaks, which will be a major catastrophe for everything downstream, even down to Islamabad in the far south!

Gulmit at the northern tip of the lake is the administrative headquarters and is a centuries-old historic town surrounded by mountain peaks, glaciers, rivers and lakes.

Many of the area’s residents are immigrants from Central Asia, most notably Tajikistan to the north which explains why most people in this part of Gilgit-Baltistan are Wakhi-speakers and followers of the Ismaili sect of Shia Islam. e Wakhi language has its origin in today’s Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan where it is still spoken. In additional to be spoken in the Wakhan Corridor and in the Gulmit area, it is also spoken in Tajikistan’s Gorno-

The new Attabad Lake was naturally created just a few years ago when a massive landslide at Attabad Village killed twenty people and blocked the fow of the Hunza River

The Karakoram Highway will forever be submerged at the bottom of the lake

The Passu Hanging Footbridge at an altitude of 2,400 m which spans 200 m across the river is aptly labelled “The World’s Most Dangerous Bridge”. But its not, go ahead and cross it. You will never forget this crossing

Badkhshan area immediately north of the Wahkan Corridor, and by Tajiks living in China’s Xinjiang region.

e people of Gulmit are fair skinned with many having light brown hair and even blue and green eyes. In additional to being beautiful people, they are also incredibly friendly. It won’t take long before you are invited into their modest homes where you will sit on their beautiful carpets and have tea with freshly baked atbread.

Drop in at the “Korgah Old House Weaving” house to experience a really old house and to see several ladies weaving carpets. Many of the residents are well educated but job opportunities are limited, so they have to nd work in the larger cities around Pakistan.

Further north of Gulmit are the small communities of Ghulkin, Passu, and a few others up to the border with China.

About 15 km north of Gulmit along the Karakoram Highway lies Passu, famous for its glaciers (Passu, Borith, Batura and Pamir), lakes (Borith and Shimshal), and mountain peaks.

Some of the notable peaks include Batura (7,785 m), Shisper (7,611 m), Passu (7,284 m), and the most remarkable Mount Tupopdon (6,500 m). Inspired by its unique structural attributes, Mount Tupopdon is also referred to as ‘Passu Cathedral’.

A small road up to the le of the Karakoram Highway leads to the foot of Passu Glacier. Walk high above the glacier further up the hill to have spectacular views of the glacier and the valley surrounded by majestic peaks.

Back to the Karakoram Highway, hike down to the Hunza River which in late summer will be a small stream meandering across a very wide riverbed.

Walk along the riverbed to the Passu Hanging Footbridge (2,400 m) which spans 200 m across the river. Go ahead and walk on the bridge, aptly labelled “ e World’s Most Dangerous Bridge”. Walk all the way like the locals do. You will never forget this crossing!

e scenery around this area is truly unforgettable.

The views from Passu Glacier of Passu Cathedral (middle of photo)

The foot of Passu Glacier

One of the most exciting destinations in the Gilgit-Baltistan region is the Fairy Meadows, locally known as Joot.

However, the real excitement it not so much the end destination, but the journey to get there.

About 78 km south of the town of Gilgit is the famous Raikot Bridge (1,100 m) over the Indus River. On the east side of the river banks, just across the bridge, is a small settlement with an aptly named Shangri La Hotel. At PKR 2,000 (US$20) per night for a double room it is quite a good deal, though the restaurant is basic with food and drinks being limited and over-priced.

is is the gateway to the basecamp of Nanga Parbat (8,126 m) and Fairy Meadows (3,300 m).

Negotiate a fare with one of the many small jeeps for the approximate one hour drive (12 km) on one of the most scary roads in the world.

is is truly one of the scariest and most dangerous roads in the world.

According to guides and local drivers, accidents are rare. However, landslides are quite frequent which sometimes wash away large sections of this small road which is precariously built with loose rocks along the steep mountains.

is is not an experience for the fainthearted.

e jeep trip terminates near the village of Tato, across a 6 m deep gorge and stream with no bridge. Carefully walk down the gorge, cross the stream by walking over the make-shi log, head up the gorge and into the small settlement.

From here it is another three to four hours (5 km) of steep hiking along the small path up to the lush green mini-plateau referred to as the Fairy Meadows. In total, the altitude climb from Raikot Bridge to Fairy Meadows is about 2,200 m.

“ It’s not the destination, but the journey to get there!

This 12 km road is listed as one of the scariest road tracks in the world.

Jeeps traverse the scary 12 km road from Raikot Bridge to Tato Village

Fairy Meadows

Fairy Meadows has a small community of rather unfriendly and camera-shy residents.

e community bene ts nancially from the tourists who annually spend about PKR 17 million (US$160,000) mainly on food, transportation and accommodation. Don’t even take a photo in the general direction of someone, or even the village, and you will hear wild screams of “No photo!” ese people are so out of character with that of the Gilgit-Baltistan people who are very friendly and welcoming.

e “resort camp” at Fairy Meadows is referred to as Raikot Serai and has a couple of fairly basic huts for rent, as well as ample space to set up a tent. Some of them have open views of the Raikot Glacier and north face of Nanga Parbat, commonly referred to as the “Raikot Face”.

Hike up north of the village, all along the right side of Raikot Glacier which originates from Nanga Parbat Peak.

A er about an hour of hiking through lush forests you will arrive at the foot of

Nanga Parbat. From here, on a clear day, the views of the mountains and glaciers are stunning. Nanga Parbat, also referred to as “Killer Mountain”, is the ninth highest mountain on earth and the second highest in Pakistan.

ere is so much to explore in the GilgitBaltistan region that a few months are required. It is not uncommon among some trekkers to spend two or three months in the region. If money and time is not an issue, head up to Gilgit-Baltistan for one of the most incredible trips of your life! GR

Early morning mist at Fairy Meadows hovers over Raikot Glacier in the shadows of Nanga Parbat (8,126 m)

Basic huts are for rent at Fairy Meadows with some having great views over Raikot Glacier

Views over Raikot Glacier from Fairy Meadows

Mist hangs over the valley just below Raikot Glacier and the Fairy Meadows

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION

Getting There

Gilgit-Baltistan is Pakistan’s most northern region and stretches all the way to Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor and China’s Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region in the far north. The administrative capital, Gilgit, is a good base for travel in all directions. A private vehicle from Pakistan’s capital, Islamabad, can make the journey via the Karakoram Highway in about 15 hours, and 12 hours via Naran in the beautiful Kaghan Valley. Public busses take about 18 hours.

The most convenient, yet risky of last minute cancellation, is the 1 hour fight on Pakistan International Airways (PIA) which departs twice daily.

When to Go

The region is a year-round destination. While winter months offer winter-wonderlands, road travel is challenging. Hiking will also require special stamina and equipment. April to October are the best months for general travel. The season starts with the apricot blossoms in April and May, and ends with the beautiful autumn colours in October and November. The best mountain trekking months are June, July and August.

Getting Around

Public transportation is not recommended due to their safety and comfort standards. A private vehicle arranged by a personal guide is more fexible and convenient.

Where to Stay

RECOMMENDED GILGIT GUIDE:

Nasir Ahmed

Gilgit Adventure Treks

www.gilgitadventuretreks.com

naguideglt@hotmail.com

Most of the towns and villages with places of interest to tourists have at least some hotels which vary from fairly cheap and basic to more comfortable and expensive. For a splurge, stay in one of the Serena Hotels in Gilgit or Karimabad. Otherwise, stay down to earth in one of the budget hotels. On trekking trips, camping in your own tent is the norm.

Cost of Travel

Arranging everything by yourself, taking public transport and hiking without a guide, would be a very inexpensive way of seeing the region. However, relying on public transportation is not recommended and hiking without a guide would be foolish. The better way to travel is to book a personal guide who will arrange private transportation, accommodation, food, permits, excursions, and introductions to local families. While this is the best way to travel, it doesn’t come cheap!

9 traveller experiences northern Pakistan in

1

MINAPIN GLACIER

Located at 3,640 m above sea level at the foot of the majestic Rakaposhi Peak, Minapin Glacier is a 5.5 hour strenous hike up from the village of Minapin Nagar. The village is close to the Hunza River at about 2,200 m.

The glacier is stunning and fanked by Rakaposhi (7,788 m), Diran (7,257 m), Hachindar Chish (7,163 m), and Ultar Peak (7,329 m).

Walk on the glacier but be careful of deep crevasses. Sleep in a tent next to the glacier and at night wake up from the rumble of avalanches and falling chunks of ice. An unforgettable experience!

2 3

THE ROAD TO TATO PASSU GLACIER

If you want to reach the basecamp of Nanga Parbat (8,126 m), or spend a few days at the peaceful Fairy Meadows (3,300 m), then your gateway is the road to the village of Tato from where you will walk a steep and scary path for another three to four hours to the Fairy Meadows huts.

Hire an old jeep for the 12 km road trip which is listed as one of the scariest road tracks in the world. According to guides and local drivers, accidents are rare. However, landslides are quite frequent which sometimes wash away large sections of this small road which is precariously built with loose rocks along the steep mountains.

This is not an experience for the faint-hearted. But, as they say, it’s not the destination, but the journey to get there!

While the lower parts of the glacier is a grey sea of rocks and gravelly moraine, the upper parts are quite white and reminiscent of old chunks of styrofoam!

Debatably more impressive than the glacier itself is the stunning theatre of mountain peaks around the glacier. The area is peaceful as few people reside in this part of Gilgit-Baltistan. Nearby is Mount Tupopdon (Passu Cathedral) and the very scary Passu Hanging Bridge.

Located close to Passu Peak (7,478 m) and Batura Peak (7,795 m) in the Upper Hunza Valley (Gojal Valley), the glacier is linked with the 57 km long Batura Glacier which is one of the largest and longest glaciers outside the Polar regions.

HUNZA VALLEY

PASSU HANGING BRIDGE GULMIT VILLAGE

The Hunza Valley in Gilgit-Baltistan stretches roughly from north of the administrative capital of Gilgit all the way up to the China border. The Hunza River fows through much of the valley, fanked by several high peaks such as Rakaposhi (7,788 m).

The valley is roughly divided into the Lower, Central, and Upper Hunza. In addition to the majestic mountains and glaciers, the valley is known for its friendly people, good food and fruits, turquoise lakes, and excellent hiking trails.

The Passu Hanging Bridge does not really deserve its reputation as one of the world’s most dangerous hanging bridges. While you may fnd it scary to walk on it, as long as you don’t slip through the planks and fall into the meandering stream, you will be perfectly safe.

Rather, it should be labelled as one of the most scenic hanging bridges in the world. The surrounding mountains, including Mount Tupopdon (Passu Cathedral) is breathtaking. Nearby is Passu Glacier.

Located just north of the new Attabad Lake, Gulmit is the capital of the Gojal Valley.

Many of the area’s residents are immigrants from Central Asia, most notably Tajikistan which explains why most people in this part of GilgitBaltistan are Wakhi-speakers and followers of the Ismaili sect of Shia Islam. The people are fair skinned with many having light brown hair and even blue and green eyes. In addition to being beautiful people, they are also incredibly friendly.

FAIRY MEADOWS KAGHAN VALLEY ATTABAD LAKE

An exciting destination in the GilgitBaltistan region is the Fairy Meadows, locally known as Joot. However, to get there, you have to take one of the scariest road tracks in the world (See: 2. The Road to Tato).

After the scary jeep ride and a 5 km hike you will reach the Fairy Meadows on a lush green mini-plateau. Great views over Raikot Glacier and Nanga Parbat. Watch out! The locals in the small village are very unfriendly and will yell at you for pointing a camera at them or at the village.

Flying from Islamabad to Gilgit is a great way to get to Gilgit-Baltistan. A great way to get back to Islamabad is by driving with a 4x4 via the Kaghan Valley and the town of Naran. The road goes through the Lulusar-Dudipatsar National Park.

The highest elevation point on the road is at the Bubusar Pass (4,173 m). At Naran (2,500 m) take a sidetrip by Jeep up to Lake Saiful Muluk (3,224 m). The entire road through the Kaghan Valley is a beautiful part of Pakistan!

This was a peaceful meandering Hunza River running down the valley when on January 4, 2010, a massive landslide at Attabad Village killed twenty people and blocked the fow of the Hunza River. Now it is a large lake with the Karakoram Highway at the bottom.

While the new road around the lake is under construction, all traffc north goes via the lake surface. A beautiful turquoise lake surrounded by mountains. A great boat ride indeed.

What is Shark Finning?

Finning is the process of cutting o the ns of a shark and discarding the body at sea. is wasteful and o en cruel practice contradicts all principles of sustainable shark sheries management and conservation.

Why are Sharks Vulnerable to Exploitation?

e life history of sharks is typical of top predators, and completely di erent to most commercial sh, which mature early and produce vast numbers of tiny eggs. In comparison, most sharks grow slowly, mature late and give birth to a few large pups a er a long gestation period. Consequently, shark populations decline rapidly when targeted by sheries and recover slowly, if at all. Shark populations may continue to decline, potentially to unviable levels with species becoming regionally extinct. ere are now 126 species of chondrichthyan sh listed in a reat category on the IUCN’s Red List, with a further 107 species listed as Near reatened.

Why Oppose Shark Finning?

• Although some sharks are killed before nning (a live shark represents a danger on board), many are still alive when their ns are cut o , and are thrown back into the sea alive to die.

• Finning is hugely wasteful - wet ns typically represent less than 5% of a shark’s body weight and discarded carcasses could provide a valuable protein source, particularly in developing countries.

• e environmental impact of removing large numbers of sharks from ocean ecosystems is hugely complex and unpredictable. Most sharks are top predators and scientists believe sharks play a key role in marine ecosystems by keeping their prey populations in check. Removing this control is likely to have a damaging e ect on marine ecosystems.

• Today many shark populations are experiencing a downward spiral of reduced populations due to increasing shing pressure and increasing prices. Over the last 15 years some Atlantic shark populations have declined by up to 90%. However due to the covert nature of the n trade ns originating from illegal, unreported or unregulated (IUU) sheries means that we have likely underestimated the e ect on global shark populations.

Finning Facts

• Hong Kong is the world’s shark n trading centre, accounting for 50-80% of ns traded worldwide. Currently the EU supplies 27% of all ns imported into Hong Kong.

• Sharks’ life history makes them vulnerable to exploitation – for example, Basking Sharks take 15-20 years to mature, have a 2-3 year gestation period and produce only 4–6 pups.

• Wet ns typically represent < 5% of a shark’s body weight.

• Some Atlantic shark populations have declined by up to 90% in the last 15 years.

• Sets of ns can sell for more than US$700/kg, with Hammerhead Shark ns among the most valuable by weight.

• A single Whale Shark pectoral n can sell for up to US$15,000.

• Global trade in shark ns is increasing, and the market for shark n soup is estimated to be growing by 5% per year.

• e EU’s n to carcass ratio is among the weakest in the world.

• A third of European sharks, and a total of 126 species of chondrichthyan sh are listed under a reat category on the IUCN Red List, with a further 107 species Near reatened.

Find out more at www.sharktrust.org/ nning

SOURCE: http://www.stopshark nning.net/docs/StopSharkFinningCampaignFactsheet.pdf

NEPAL

Architectural Marvels

Prior to the 2015 devastating earthquakes

Landlocked along the southern flanks of the Himalayan Mountains, Nepalʻs neighbours are Tibet to the north, and India along the western, southern, and eastern borders.

Popular among adventure and culture seekers, Nepal is known for its incredible mountain scenery, vibrant culture, and historical architecture.

Sadly, on April 25, 2015, a massive earthquake of magnitude 7.8 struck near Lamjung, northwest of the capital, Kathmandu. This quake was followed by hundreds of aftershocks. Two weeks later, on May 12th, another quake with a magnitude of 7.3 struck to the northeast of Kathmandu. More than 9,000 people lost their lives with more than 22,000 being injured - including locals and foreign tourists. The quake not only devastated people’s lives, it also changed the mountainous landscape and destroyed much of Nepal’s priceless cultural heritage. Architectural masterpieces were left in ruins across the nation.

Globerovers Magazine is fortunate to present the architectural marvels of Nepal prior to the 2015 earthquakes. Areas covered are Kathmandu, Boudhanath, Patan, and Bhaktapur.