November 2019 Global Traveler

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November 2019

CARTAGENA p. 60 CHRISTMAS MARKETS p. 70 CROATIA p. 72 DUBAI p. 66 İZMIR p. 52 MIAMI p. 58 NASSAU p. 62 ROATÁN p. 64

THE CRUISING ISSUE

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letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

SAIL AWAY WHAT A DIFFERENCE a year makes! As I prepared my letter for last November’s issue, our first-ever Cruising Issue, it had been years since I’d last cruised. Now, as I prepare for final sign-off on this November issue, I reminisce about the two cruises I’ve been on in the past year, and I’m washed with nostalgia for the experiences and memories each brought.

What makes cruising such big business? Based on my two different experiences — one a river cruise on the Danube for New Year’s Eve and one a luxury cruise in the Caribbean OUT TO SEA: on a larger ship — I can draw some Kimberly Krol on Seabourn Odyssey of my own conclusions. One cannot PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL overlook the ease of unpacking once yet seeing multiple destinations.

Cruises are good for a wide range of family types; my New Year’s Eve river cruise with my fiancé in Europe was perfect for us, while the all-inclusive ocean cruise I took with my mom suited us nicely. You can please most members of the family with a cruise. Planned itineraries and offered excursions take some of the headache out of putting together your own trip, and with dining included, people can budget funds for other activities. I could go on about the benefits of cruising, but I’ll let the articles on the following pages entice you instead. As you can tell from my GT Tested reviews of U River Cruises and Seabourn, I had more words to write than room on the page.

To depart from the subject of cruising briefly, I need to offer a little update to my letter from last month. I wrote about the subject of haunted tourism just a few days before departing for Savannah, a well-known haunted destination. On a tour of the haunted Sorrel-Weed House I saw a ghost. While not necessarily a believer before, I am now. I know what I saw was paranormal activity, and it only bolstered the sentiment expressed in our October issue: Haunted tourism is and will continue to be popular for good reason, and there’s a bounty of it to be explored further.

Where do we cruise in this issue? Sail away with us to Colombo, İzmir, Miami, Cartagena, Nassau, Roatán, Dubai and Croatia. Prepare for the holiday season with a look at Christmas market cruises on page 70, and use Katie McElveen’s feature story on page 40 to determine which cruise line is right for you.

Celebrate with us next month as we announce the winners of our 16th annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards. Until then, happy sailing!

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ERICH J. MARTIN erich.martin@globaltravelerusa.com Social Media & Editorial Coordinator MARY MELNICK mary.melnick@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE holly.riddle@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

KRISTY ALPERT MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER JACK GUY ALLIE MOORE

DEBRA BOKUR MARK CHESNUT ELLEN CLARK ELYSE GLICKMAN STEVE JERMANOK GREG MCCLUNEY KATIE MCELVEEN RINA NEHDAR RICHARD NEWTON KATHY RODEGHIER BRANDON SCHULTZ

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CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

d re-emerge Croatia try whose as a coun ges, cities, villa and food wineries e shaped culture ar ctic by an ecle fluences mix of in oric and from hist ry Italy, contempora ermany G a, ri st Au rn Europe. and Easte e about or m n ar Le page 72.

Croatia on

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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letter from the publisher ® ®

MAKING A SPLASH I TRUST YOU’LL ENJOY our Cruising Issue, a topic we didn’t focus on when we launched Global Traveler 16 years ago. Like cruising, we changed a great deal over the past years. Where we once turned up our noses at taking that typical cruise, we have come to learn cruising not only has its place in our travels, but it can hold a special place.

About 10 years ago I took the ALOHA: Francis with his wife on board United Airlines’ non-stop flight 363 family, with their plus-ones, on a from Newark to Honolulu Christmas cruise with Celebrity PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER Cruises, since then embarking on three more with Royal Caribbean and Norwegian Cruise Line, as well as trans-Atlantic crossings on the Queen Mary 2. The GT team has enjoyed many other ocean and river cruises; be sure to read their reviews on these pages.

The rise of river cruising is astounding — there is even talk about overcrowding on some rivers. I hope to take a river cruise in the spring and am reviewing the many itinerary options. Expedition cruises offer a wonderful way to experience places like the Antarctic or the Galápagos. This segment also enjoys substantial growth, including the likes of Ponant, fairly new to the American market.

With so many available cruising styles and ports of call, destinations like Hawai’i and Mexico find it challenging to keep pace. Avid travelers collect destinations and experiences, reveling in doing what others have not done. Traveling to Lanai, I was surprised to learn how many people have never been there, even those who frequently travel to Hawai’i or even live in Honolulu. I stayed at the Four Seasons; please look for my upcoming Golf column and GT Tested review of the property. (A side note: I do not recommend flying through Honolulu unless you have TSA PreCheck. The lines were ridiculously long, and nobody seemed to care or help. Without TSA PreCheck, I may have missed my flight.)

Our next issue announces the results of the 16th annual GT Tested Reader Survey, which will award some perennial favorites (which hung on hard for their top spots) and some new favorites. The Peninsula Beverly Hills will host the event Dec. 11 at its poolside rooftop venue, and we are hoping for warm weather just in case a guest decides to topple in, as happened a few years ago. The property says no one fell in the pool before or since, so we hold a proud record. Our winners prefer to make a splash to celebrate!

Until next month, peruse these pages and plan your cruise … and to those of you who say, “We don’t cruise,” find a voyage to meet your expectations and personality.

Mahalo nui loa!

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contents

November 2019

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40 44

FEATURES

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

40 A Sea of Choices How do you decide which cruise line is right for you?

52 Destination One: İzmir İzmir intrigues and inspires with its legendary history and dynamic culture.

44 Cruising the Continent New ships and itineraries fuel interest around North America.

58 Stateside: Miami Miami sizzles as a port city for business and pleasure.

48 Convene in Colombo Sri Lanka’s busy seaport welcomes international events of all sizes.

60 9–5: Cartagena Discover the Caribbean charms of Colombia’s coastal city.

62 After 5: Nassau The Bahamas capital glitters with treasures after dark.

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November 2019

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SOME CHEFS COOK THEIR BEST AT 30,000 FEET

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LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

26 Technology 28 Wine & Spirits 29 Wealth 30 Tours 32 Spas 34 Golf 36 Chefs 38 Cruising 76 LGBTQ+ 80 Health

10 Mail Call 13 News 16 Reviews 24 One on One Paul Gauguin Cruises 78 Port Update 82 Preview

64 Neighborhoods: Roatán Disembark for a day of play on the island of Roatán, Honduras.

66 Friends & Family: Dubai Dubai rises to the occasion for family fun.

70 Bucket List: Christmas Markets Sip mulled wine and tick off your gift list on a leisurely Christmas market cruise.

72 Kicking Back: Croatia Meander through Croatia’s rich cultural history, city by city.

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mail call Q&A WITH ANGELIQUE PLATAS, ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Q&A WITH ERICH MARTIN, ASSISTANT EDITOR

In our September issue, associate editor Angelique Platas got into the fall spirit discussing plans for a seasonal getaway to kick off fall and say goodbye to summer. This inspired the question: What’s your favorite way to commemorate the end of summer? Is it a family barbecue or one last getaway? A few readers wrote in with responses: Every year my family closes our beach house season with a big end-of-summer cookout. Over the years, the family tradition has become more of a block party, with friends and neighbors joining in. It’s actually a really satisfying way to welcome the changing season with one last summer party.

MERYL WILSON, via email My husband and I went to Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada, this year to hike around Lake Louise and take in the incredible vistas of the region. It was our first visit to the area and definitely won’t be our last — we already plan to go back in the spring. Between the stunning drives and chilly hikes, we are ready for fall to fully kick in at home.

JENNIFER REED, via email

MINI TOILETRIES MAKE (MORE) NOISE In our Aug. 6 issue of eFlyer USA, we reported on InterConti-

While cruising isn’t for everyone, there is definitely a cruise for every individual style. From Christmas market cruises in Europe to a rundown of what’s new in Port Canaveral and big cruising news coming in 2020, this Cruising Issue also has something for everyone.

I have never been on a cruise with a special itinerary or theme, but I think it would be a cool experience. Have you ever taken a themed cruise?

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

nental Hotels Group’s decision to end miniature toiletries as part of its sustainability efforts. More readers wrote in with thoughts: It’s all well and good until someone poisons the “bulk” supplies (like the Dominican Republic alcohol) and someone sues InterContinental for damages.

LIZ HA, via email

spin to your story in poor taste.

How about a positive article on hotel chains’ green efforts? After all, quite a bit of those efforts are not recoverable expenses.

been at least as long in continental Europe. “This bleak vision” hardly dissuaded travelers from visiting either destination.

E.C., via email

FRED DIKEMAN, via email IHG’s making a bad move. I’ll advise my clients to avoid IHG properties when this happens.

IHG’s doing this to save money and not to use less plastic.

True change is difficult in nearly every situation. The miniatures served as souvenirs for years after each trip. However, the change is a refreshing innovation for both travelers and the hotel chain. My advice: Let the packaging continue serving the souvenir aspect. Wishing you the best in this revolution of being Earth-friendly!

MICHAEL J. GREEN, via email

ISRAEL T. MABHOO, via email

FRANCESCA KELLY, via email

With growing concern over single-use plastics, including the overwhelming amount in our oceans, I found the lead-in and

It’s about time but hardly revolutionary. In the U.K., hotels have used bulk toiletries for at least 12 years. I suspect it’s

Good for them. The article used the word bleak, but that word applies to what’s happening to the planet, not to the fact I don’t get mini-toiletries. I’m happy a hotel chain is actually trying not to contribute to the problem of too much plastic, which is choking our oceans, wildlife and even us.

The green virtue signaling by IHG in eliminating small toiletry bottles is both duplicitous and self-serving — what’s the difference between 8–10 small bottles or one larger bottle in terms of environmental impact?

It’s still plastic, and improperly disposed of, it’s still waste. This is merely a sound bite to camouflage a cost reduction for the business. Why don’t properties focus on recycling used bottles, thereby eliminating the waste?

Using large bottles, especially in the shower, is probably unsanitary; imagine who had their dirty hands on those bottle pumps during the previous room occupation, squirting dose after dose while showering!

With all due respect to IHG and other hotels going this route, it’s hypocrisy, as is Cali-

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler.

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urban resort in Los Angeles offering luxurious accommodations, California French dining, newly redesigned bar with live entertainment, spacious meeting rooms, complimentary high-speed internet, spa and salon services, fitness center and more.

SOFITEL LOS ANGELES AT BEVERLY HILLS | 8555 BEVERLY BLVD. LOS ANGELES, CA 90048 | 310-278-5444 WWW.SOFITEL-LOS-ANGELES.COM

mail call fornia’s pending ban on all small bottles.

Doesn’t anyone or any institution have the insight to challenge these feel-good, inname-only “green” platitudes?

PATRICK COPPS, via email The article on IHG is confusing. Exactly how are bulk sizes being implemented? They can’t replace daily miniature soap bars with a single standard bar per stay; the waste from an open large bar that can’t be used by the next occupant far exceeds the waste from a few small ones.

Switching to liquid soap or shampoo dispensers causes other problems. The dispensers need to be fixed in place or face the liability of tampering. Guests may not be aware dispensers are about to run out while showering or washing. The traveler isn’t the only potential loser. One of the ways a hospitality provider is able to stand above competition is through the subtle cachet of fine toiletries. What can we look forward to being pampered with now?

LOUIS R URCIUOLO, via email I salute InterContinental for having the guts to remove those tiny toiletries and reduce plastic waste. Ditto its earlier move to remove plastic straws. Plastic pollutes our oceans and fouls the environment. The time has come to ignore the “convenience” of guests or their love of tucking those free tiny items into their suitcases. Global warming is heating our planet, a dire example of catering to the convenience of people who inhabit this planet.

Thanks for the story. From now on, I will only book InterContinental Hotels. Bravo, IHG!

the environment and more to do with the bottom line. All of a sudden companies began to fall in lockstep — no more plastic straws, plastic bags or individual travel sizes at hotels. This falls in with the “We’ll give you 500 extra hotel points per night if you don’t have your room cleaned during your lengthy stay” or “Put your towel here to reuse or here to replace.”

I understand each company wants to present a shiny picture to their shareholders, presenting a decent profit margin because they eliminated the cost of straws or individual soaps, cut back on housekeeping and laundry costs, or tacked on a “resort fee” while maintaining or raising room rates. As a capitalist, I get it. But don’t insult my intelligence by patting yourselves on the back while intoning, “We’re saving the environment.” This is one more scheme: to make some think they are making a difference because the media reports it as such.

Perhaps IHG is sincere about doing its part as an environmental steward. As soon as I shove my eyes back into place after yet another hard eye roll at all this sincerity, I’ll let you know.

MS. E.R. BENNETT, via email

NOVEMBER 2019

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Given the tepid response of hotels and authorities to the deaths in the Dominican Republic and the plethora of other islands available as destinations, I would avoid the Dominican Republic.

WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS?

In our Aug. 20 issue of eFlyer USA, we reported on the temporary closing of a Dominican Republic hotel after a few mysterious deaths. A few readers wrote in with thoughts:

I work for an airline and travel for free, and right now I could get a great rate. I would not travel to the Dominican Republic even if it were all free, as it would not be worth risking my or my husband’s life. I don’t drink; but if they are willing to target the alcohol, why not bottled water, too? I don’t feel anything is being done to protect the tourists who are spending their money there. From what I have read, no locals have been affected. Doesn’t that tell you something?

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JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world.

You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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This is the dumbest thing I can imagine any hotel doing. This is not about operating responsibly, and it certainly doesn’t contribute to sustainability. In fact, I can’t imagine what it’s about. It’s not saving them money, and will result in a massive waste of products.

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This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet.

Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle.

Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25).

The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million.

Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center.

Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background.

Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300.

While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC MAKES WAVES

SUSAN GOGGIN, via email

I’m a cynic. None of this makes me cheer, “How insightful you are to care.” In my view, major companies taking alleged “environmental saving steps” has less to do with a concern over

Captivating Cape Town

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DR. BARBARA SIEK, via email

MAUREEN O’MALLEY, via email

9–5 | CAPE TOWN

JANET WHITMAN, via email

Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from a tour of Miami’s Wynwood Art District to a road trip through Spain and Portugal.

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news Carnival’s Largest Cruise Ship Debuts in 2020 Carnival’s new Mardi Gras is due to set sail in 2020 and at the time of departure will be the cruise company’s largest vessel.

Mardi Gras will depart Port Canaveral in Florida with 20 decks and six themed zones, such as the French Quarter, La Piazza, Summer Landing and Grand Central. The ship will also house Bolt: The Ultimate Sea Coaster, an 800-foot-long roller coaster that travels up to 40 mph. As part of the ship’s Ultimate Playground, the coaster will encircle an area that spans two decks and Carnival WaterWorks water park.

The maiden voyage will depart Aug. 31, 2020, and travel through islands in the Caribbean as well as Mexico. carnival.com

VENICE REROUTES CRUISE SHIPS AWAY FROM CITY

PHOTOS: © DENIS LAZARENKO - DREAMSTIME.COM, © MSC

Amid growing concern for Venice, Italy, and the throngs of visitors descending upon the canals each day, city officials are considering rerouting large cruise ships away from the city center to ports on the mainland.

Starting this fall, a few ships will be diverted from the city and instead dock at Fusina and Lombardia terminals, both on the mainland. The goal is to eventually reroute one-third of the ships that previously docked along the Venetian islands, which receive about 32,000 visitors from cruise ships each day.

While plans to construct a port in nearby Marghera may be years away, these two new docking options will serve to assuage the congestion of ships at the main port in the meantime while the city and Cruise Lines International Association work out a more sustainable strategy.

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MSC Cruises Embarks from Tampa in 2020 Next year MSC Cruises plans to launch a new ship from Tampa, Florida, which will travel between South Florida, the Caribbean islands and Mexico.

The inaugural journey is scheduled to begin November 2020 and will make stops in Key West; Cozumel; Costa Maya; Progreso (near the Mexican ruins of Chichén Itzá and Uxmal); and the cruise line’s private island in the Bahamas, Ocean Cay MSC Marine Reserve, spared destruction by this fall’s Hurricane Dorian.

The arrival of the MSC Armonia marks Port Tampa Bay’s fifth cruise line to depart from its harbor. The ship, which currently docks at Miami, has a capacity of 2,000 passengers.

The announcement of MSC Cruises’ arrival in Tampa joins Celebrity Cruises’ return to the bay city for the first time in more than 10 years. Celebrity will offer 10- to 11-night trips through the Caribbean, the Panama Canal and Central America. msccruises.com

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news Oceania Cruises’ New Local Experiences Oceania Cruises announced a new series of excursions that will invite passengers to disembark the vessel and become one with the locals.

The new Go Local cruises will include on-land tours that skip the flashy attractions and instead link travelers with residents who work as artisans or local families who may invite guests into their homes for a cooking lesson preceded by a visit to a local market to collect ingredients.

Oceania will offer more than 120 such experiences in Europe, South America and Alaska. oceaniacruises.com

Music Takes Center Stage on Virgin Voyages We’re still one year from Virgin Voyages’ first sailing, but final touches still being added to the ship will entice a new generation of cruisers to explore an industry historically reserved for families and retirees.

Music will play a big role, starting with the ship’s own vinyl records store called Voyage Vinyl. Here passengers will be able to listen to vinyl records via headphones; browse classic albums; and even shop for albums, headphones and record players.

A resident DJ will take the stage on occasion for a boat-wide dance party, with Mark Ronson already signing on for a few sessions, and each area on the ship will play custom music in the background, adding to the vibe of that particular part of the boat. virginvoyages.com

The Centers for Disease Control recently released a list of the cruise industry’s cleanest and dirtiest ships. Each ship received a score out of 100, with 86 the minimum satisfactory score for cleanliness.

Seven ships earned perfect scores of 100, among them Celebrity’s Summit, Royal Caribbean’s Enchantment of the Seas, Holland America Line’s Nieuw Amsterdam and Royal Caribbean’s Rhapsody of the Seas.

Carnival’s Fantasy came in last with a score of 77 based on a July inspection. Also near the bottom were MS Grand Classica (score of 81) and Royal Caribbean’s Majesty of the Seas (score of 82). cdc.gov

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The Rise of Wellness Cruises The wellness travel trend has long been alive and kicking, but only recently has it translated to cruise lines.

For example, Uniworld’s Ganges Voyager II sails the Ganges River through India with an itinerary that includes visiting local villages and working on sustainability projects. On board, guests can take part in daily yoga classes and wellness lectures.

AmaWaterways’ Southeast Asian and European cruises feature an onboard wellness host to help passengers find peace on the ship, while bigger companies like Oceania Cruises, Regent Seven Seas, Cunard and Celebrity Cruises built upon their partnerships with Canyon Ranch, bringing health lecturers on the ships to inspire travelers.

PHOTOS: © VIRGIN VOYAGES, © CELEBRITY, © UNIWORLD

CDC List of Cleanest Cruise Lines

deals & rewards Cruises for Long Weekends With Americans’ limited vacation time, it can be hard to find time to book a proper getaway, but shorter cruises can solve this worry by inviting passengers aboard for abbreviated itineraries not far from their homes.

Lindblad Expeditions offers a five-day excursion to Baja California for a National Geographic Venture cruise, with stops at coral reefs for snorkeling and picnics on deserted beaches. In the South of France, SeaDream Yacht Club sets sail on a short journey through the Cote d’Azur, passing top spots like Cannes, St.-Tropez and Nice.

Royal Caribbean even sails for three days through the Bahamas on a sailboat, which makes for a more intimate and customized cruise experience. expeditions.com

Nab a Last-Minute Cruise A cruise vacation is not typically booked at the last minute, but doing so can score you a serious deal. Late dropouts and last-minute efforts to fill rooms can make way for price drops and help you snag a spot on a cruise for a fraction of the price you would normally pay.

You’ll more likely find the majority of such deals on the larger cruise lines departing from home ports in the United States and traveling through the Caribbean. These ships — like those from Royal Caribbean and Norwegian Cruise Line — are more likely to have empty rooms that need to be filled.

With the booking window recently expanding from six months to one year, most rooms that are going to be reserved are usually reserved within 90 days of the departure date, also typically the deadline for passengers to make final balance payments. If such payments don’t go through or a trip is canceled, the rooms become available for last-minute reservations.

PHOTOS: © NORWEGIAN, © WINDSTAR

Windstar Mediterranean Cruise Deal In 2020 Windstar Cruises is offering an itinerary along the Mediterranean coast, stopping at hot spots like Rome, Elba, the French island of Corsica, the Balearic Islands of Mallorca and Menorca and ending in Barcelona.

The seven-day journey includes on-shore excursions like food and wine tastings, walking in the footsteps of Napoleon, hiking and off-roading in 4x4 vehicles.

Next year’s departure dates are April 19 and Oct. 18, and departure dates for 2021 are April 23 and Oct. 24. Travelers who make early reservations can take advantage of a shipboard credit of $1,000.

seadreamyachtcruises.com royalcaribbean.com

Cruise Specials for 2020 and Beyond Fall and winter bring a slew of cruise deals for the 2020 and 2021 cruising seasons. Until Nov. 20, travelers can book space on select sailings with Seabourn and receive an upgrade to a veranda suite, an onboard credit of up to $500, an airfare credit up to $1,000 per person and an internet package of 300 minutes.

For select 2020 bookings of longer than 15 nights on Emerald Waterways, passengers can enjoy free airfare and a voucher of $500 per two people; or if paying for their own airfare, $2,000 per two people. seabourn.com emeraldwaterways.com

windstarcruises.com

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SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

Seabourn Odyssey

Reviewed by Kimberly Krol Ports of Call: Sint Maarten, St. Kitts & Nevis, Anguilla, Antigua & Barbuda, Guadeloupe, St. Lucia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines, Barbados

Guest Quarters: You often hear horror stories of tight, cramped cruise line quarters, but this wasn’t the instance on Seabourn Odyssey. I was traveling with my mom on a mother-daughter trip through the Caribbean. The accommodations were roomy enough for us both to spread out.

Upon entrance, the bathroom was to the right. It boasted both a shower stall and a tub and had granite countertops and first-rate amenities. Outside the bathroom door, as you continued down the short hallway, stood a small vanity and a large walk-in closet. We had the bed separated into two twin beds, each flanked by a nightstand.

Across from the beds sat a dresser. A TV was part of another section of storage between the bedroom and the sitting area, which boasted a couch and coffee table and a dinner table with two chairs. A veranda with a small table and two chairs rounded out our impressive cabin.

Services/Amenities: As stated before, service is where Seabourn really shines. Each member of the crew, led by hotel manager Zoran, was friendly, attentive, informative and helpful. Another nice aspect of a Seabourn cruise is the all-inclusive nature. You can order that afternoon cocktail without worry and try dining in several different outlets with no concern for upcharges.

We dined everywhere, ensuring we tried all the ship offered. Standout evenings included our dining on the pool deck at Earth & Ocean on the Patio and a Sunday evening meal at The Grill by Thomas Keller (one reservation per sailing is allowed). The Restaurant offers a more formal dining experience, and The Colonnade and The Patio

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were perfect options for casual breakfasts and lunches. We enjoyed a girls’ night in with in-room dining one evening. I’d also recommend partaking in the afternoon tea.

A spa, in partnership with Andrew Weill, is offered, along with a fitness studio. Seabourn Square provides the perfect spot for relaxing or socializing, as well as a midday or morning caffeine pick-me-up.

“An Evening with Sir Tim Rice” is the pinnacle of entertainment on the ship and complements a casino, shopping, card room and multiple bars. I’d recommend the trivia contests, which we won one day.

We chose to enjoy a combo of shore excursions and time on our own. Even on islands where we had to tender, getting to/from land was still efficient and quick.

Unfortunately, given flight and sailing times, we didn’t get to experience Sint Maarten. In St. Kitts, we enjoyed Seabourn’s signature Caviar in the Surf event. If this is an offered option on your cruise itinerary, do it! It’s phenomenal. The unique beach barbecue is a blast, and it’s fun to watch the ship’s crew hop in the water to serve caviar from surfboards. Everyone has a good time.

Anguilla brought rain, so we decided to lay low on the ship. In St. John’s, Antigua, we chose a snorkeling adventure, one of the shore excursions available for purchase — after some morning shopping, of course. Guadeloupe was our favorite of the islands; we wandered Terre-de-Haute on our own and had a wonderful day. In St. Lucia, Bequia and Barbados we were part of organized shore excursions.

The aerial tram in St. Lucia was a unique way to see the island, and our tours in St. Vincent and the Grenadines and Barbados offered excellent overviews of the islands. If you have an afternoon or evening flight from Barbados, I’d highly recommend the tour, as it takes the hassle out of luggage and airport transfers.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ I cannot say it enough, but it’s so true: From beginning to end, the service experience on Seabourn is exceptional. ◆ While this isn’t per se a reflection on Seabourn, the whole trip with my mom was special, heightened by the cruise line that catered to us both as individuals and together. Our memories will last forever. ◆ Stateroom amenities include L’Occitane and Molton Brown.

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE seabourn.com

PHOTO: © SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

Embarkation/Disembarkation: Seabourn is synonymous with service, so when I say throughout this review how easy a process was or how great the ship’s crew was, it’s genuinely the truth. Nothing will feel like an inconvenience with the Seabourn team at the helm — a fact that rang true for both embarkation and disembarkation.

We met a Seabourn representative at the airport in Philipsburg, Sint Maarten, and joined other cruisers on a shuttle to the port. Inside, there were no lines, and we checked in right away and were aboard quickly. Seabourn holds your passport for the duration of your trip to easily clear customs and immigration at the respective ports. Before long, we were in our stateroom.

On our final day, we were booked for an excursion that would take us around Barbados before shuttling us to the airport, so we disembarked based on our tour schedule. We awaited the call for our group with sadness as our cruise was ending; we enjoyed the same seamless service and experience we’d come to expect at disembarkation. Our luggage was handled for us as we toured the island and greeted us upon arrival at the airport.

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COSTA CRUISES

Costa Deliziosa

Reviewed by Stephanie Makowski

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ The spa services are a must, and the Samsara spa experience is quite calming and popular among many guests I met.

Ports of Call: Fort Lauderdale; Freeport, Bahamas; Grand Turk; Amber Cove, Dominican Republic; Miami

PHOTOS: © COSTA CRUISES

Embarkation/Disembarkation: I flew into Fort Lauderdale and took a quick taxi ride to the port. Upon arrival I was able to walk through security and check in.

The initial process of securing the room keys was a bit hectic when entering the lobby of the ship. The staff was accommodating when asked questions, and I soon got settled. Each port of call’s disembarkation was fairly simple. Entering the ship after a day of excursions or sightseeing was also simple and swift. Disembarkation was convenient. I had an early flight to catch, so I opted out of the luggage collection service and chose to carry my luggage off the ship myself, which saved time. I highly recommend this. There was a wait to actually leave the ship, but this was due to the port’s security, not Costa.

Guest Quarters: My ocean-view standard stateroom included a seating area with a couch and plenty of room to move about the cabin. The color scheme was calm and inviting, and the effective use of space ensured proper storage of personal items and luggage. The bathroom was spacious, and the room felt like a home away from home. The staff was thorough, consistently cleaning the room and attending to it at opportune times so as not to disturb guests who choose to sleep in.

Services/Amenities: The ship itself emphasizes the chic Italian style associated with Costa. The vessel boasts a variety of dining

◆ If you have food allergies, please be mindful.

Menus do not list all ingredients in each item, so you must be your own advocate and mention it to your server.

options and activities. I enjoyed the cuisine immensely and found the flexibility to choose a late dinner seating helpful after an excursion and port of call explorative day! The disco is a must for the young or the old. Burn off those calories and show off your best dress on the dance floor. Filled with music, lights — and, yes, a confetti drop — it’s sure to make you feel like a true “Dancing Queen” before the trip is over.

The decks near the pool and toward the back of the vessel offer many private areas to sunbathe and enjoy the pool or Jacuzzi. The café and Aperol Spritz Bar make great spots for a morning espresso or a midday cocktail. Since I was on a holiday cruise which coincided with New Year’s, the ship was appointed with beautiful decorations and presented a festive feel. Being a northern U.S. native, I enjoy Christmas and New Year’s Eve best in my traditional chilly scenery, but the entire crew at Costa made me feel like I was in my home away from home for the holidays. The New Year began while I was at sea, and it was a magical way to ring in 2019! If you have the opportunity to celebrate the holidays at sea, I recommend it.

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◆ This is an Italian cruising company, so you’ll find a lovely mix of cultural influences of service, food and the demographics of travelers.

If you seek a multilingual and culturally enriching group while traveling, this is an excellent cruise line to choose. You’ll meet such lovely individuals from all over the world!

COSTA CRUISES costacruises.com

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U RIVER CRUISES

The A

Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Unfortunately, my fiancé came down with an illness, so we missed the first day in Regensburg; the crew took time to ensure he was okay and were incredibly helpful.

On the first night, when they noticed he wasn’t eating, they brought over consommé and ginger ale and checked to see if we needed toast, tea and water the next day. One of the crew helped me locate a pharmacy in Passau and wrote down the names of the medications we needed in German.

Embarkation/Disembarkation: Our “Dashing Through the Danube” itinerary aboard U River Cruises’ The A was due to arrive in Regensburg, Germany, Dec. 27; however, river conditions meant the boat could not dock there, so our itinerary changed slightly, instead spending two days in Passau, with a daytrip by bus to Regensburg. As a result, U River Cruises offered complimentary bus transfers from Munich Airport to the port in Passau and made the appropriate arrangements for transfers and activities in Regensburg. What could have been a hectic, last-minute change (beyond the cruise line’s control) was instead a minor change with minimal headache.

Upon arrival in Passau, check-in was easy.

Within minutes we were unpacking in our cabin. An early-morning flight home from Budapest meant we departed the ship rather early, and the crew laid out breakfast boxes for us and arranged for a taxi to the airport. The manager on duty even waited street-side in the bitter cold for the taxi while we waited in a less windy area.

Guest Quarters: Our cabin was small, as expected on a river cruise, but efficient, using space-saving tricks and added storage areas to make these cabins functional. Upon entry, a closet stood to the right and the bathroom, with marble accents, to the left.

The bathroom boasted a sink and counter, toilet and stall shower.

As you entered the room, a desk was tucked into a corner, and a TV lived inside a mirrored wall opposite the king-sized bed. On the desk were the handheld audio guides, one per passenger, we’d use on excursions. On each side of the bed stood hybrid closets/ nightstands, and space under the bed held our unpacked suitcases.

A French balcony with cantilevered shutters was the final touch.

Services/Amenities: We truly had a wonderful holiday cruise with U River Cruises. I’m glad we opted for a wintertime sailing … enjoying the cities still decked in their holiday finest, seeing towns and villages sprinkled with snow and cuddling on romantic activities. And river cruising is truly like a floating boutique hotel.

We covered four countries in eight days and unpacked once.

Overnights and late departures in the cities allowed people to experience the nightlife and more fully immerse in a destination.

Each cruise has two U Hosts in the crew who lead activities and communications. You won’t find paper itineraries; everything is handled electronically, with the days’ schedules on the in-room

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TV and group announcements and chats via a What’s App group.

I found the included group walks and tours a great way to orient with the cities.

Dining flip-flopped between buffets and plated dinners, and all the food was delicious. We didn’t opt for a beverage package, but options are available. The epic dessert presentation on the last night was a delicious send-off. Dining is available during two-hour timeframes, but passengers can come and go as they please within those hours. There’s always access to hot beverages and water, spa services and laundry.

A lounge remains open all day, with a bar and menu as well as snacks. Board games, foosball and more are available to guests, and the windows make this a great spot to lounge while sailing picturesque spots like the Wachau Valley. In warmer weather there’s an upstairs indoor/outdoor deck and bar. Ship activities include guest DJs, karaoke, paint nights, fitness activities and more on a daily basis.

We also chose some of the for-purchase excursions, our favorite a wintertime tour in Passau that meandered along the Danube into small German villages where we were greeted by singing and local delicacies. We had a great time exploring each city but wished our time in Bratislava hadn’t coincided with New Year’s Day, as most shops were closed. One of our best decisions was to avoid the throngs of people in Vienna on New Year’s Eve and celebrate from The A’s roof deck. We saw 360-degree fireworks, enjoyed free-flowing Champagne, mingled with the friendly and fun crew and had an amazing time. Another must: Go to the upper deck as you sail into Budapest at night, even in cold temperatures, because it’s a spectacular setting.

◆ The small size of the boat and the laid-back atmosphere of the cruise experience led to a family-like feel on board.

Friendships formed among people who had been strangers just a few days prior. We still talk to a couple we met and hope to cruise with them again someday! ◆ U River Cruises is a newer river cruise line from Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection. With a goal to bring river cruises to a new audience, it revolutionized the industry by bringing a more casual, laidback approach to river cruising.

We sailed on the last sailing of 2018, its inaugural season, and I’ve noticed the line made some changes and adjustments, proving itself a versatile, adaptable line that aims to introduce programs and offerings tailored to passengers’ needs and wants. I’m excited to see what’s ahead for U River Cruises.

U RIVER CRUISES ubyuniworld.com

PHOTO: © U RIVER CRUISES

Ports of Call: Regensburg, Germany; Passau, Germany; Melk, Austria; Vienna, Austria; Bratislava, Slovakia; Budapest, Hungary

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DISNEY CRUISE LINE

Disney Wonder

Reviewed by Angelique Platas Ports of Call: Disney Wonder typically sails out of Galveston, Texas; New Orleans; San Diego; and Vancouver. Itinerary destinations include Grand Cayman, the Bahamas, Jamaica, Puerto Rico, Key West, Mexico and San Francisco.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

Embarkation/Disembarkation: Our April sailing departed San Diego, California, for Ensenada, Mexico, for a weekend cruise. The two-day sailing kicked off with a true Disney send-off, including dance parties and characters waving our San Diego port good-bye. Trusting our bags would make it to our room, my mom and I lay by the pool, trying to soak in some sun before dinner. We felt the ship whir beneath us, pushing us out to sea.

◆ Bring something warm to wear for the pirate party and fireworks finale. The air gets colder than you might expect, and this show is a must — Disney’s cruise ships are the only vessels offering fireworks shows at sea. ◆ Having a private, open-air space like a stateroom veranda offers a retreat from the public spaces on the upper decks.

PHOTOS: © DISNEY CRUISE LINE

Guest Quarters: A couple of hours later we found our bags waiting for us in our deluxe oceanview stateroom with a veranda. With a queen-sized bed and a sitting area offering a couch, TV and desk with storage space, the room could have felt cramped for two people, but the walk-out veranda with outside seating really elevated the room, making it feel infinitely larger. The room design made great use of the space, including a restroom separate from the shower, allowing two people to get ready at the same time.

◆ Arrive early to enjoy onboard entertainment and shows. Some of the more popular productions, like Frozen, A Musical Spectacular and movie premieres, fill up quickly and are firstcome, first served. ◆ Familiarize yourself with the ship layout early.

The ship’s décor provides clues and features thousands of signs (more than 2,400 total), but it’s still easy to get turned around.

Services/Amenities: The all-inclusive nature of a Disney cruise provides a never-ending embarrassment of riches. Each restaurant offers more food than the next, and on such a short cruise, it’s difficult to make time for it all … though we tried.

The price of admission includes a fitness center, live shows and nightly entertainment, youth clubs and themed parties, various age-appropriate pools, self-serve ice cream, recreation activities, daily character experiences and inclusive dining at all restaurants with the exception of Palo; the adults-only, fine-dining Italian restaurant requires a dress code and additional fees.

DISNEY CRUISE LINE disneycruise.disney .go.com

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HAPAG-LLOYD CRUISES

MS EUROPA 2

Reviewed by Debra Bokur Ports of Call: Oslo, Eidfjord, Olden/Innvikfjord, Åndalsnes/ Romsdalsfjord, Molde/Moldefjord, Vik/Sognefjord, Flåm/Aurlandsfjord and Bergen, Norway Embarkation/Disembarkation: During my cruise, the MS EUROPA 2 sailed from Oslo to Bergen, Norway. The process of joining the ship and leaving it was seamless, efficient and friendly.

Services/Amenities: The Programme of the Day, delivered to each suite the night before during evening turndown service, gave a useful overview of the next port, along with dining room times, fitness classes, lectures, presentations, entertainment and daily activities. During my cruise, day pursuits included Champagne tastings, a gin workshop, workouts that incorporated the deck rail (Railing Fit classes), film screenings and a selection of expert-led lectures that included “Norway — the Land of Fjords, Fells and Waterfalls.”

I found the flexible meal times and lack of assigned seating wonderfully freeing, allowing me to embrace a leisurely, less-structured

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TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Book spa treatments in advance, especially for port days, as spots fill quickly. ◆ Sign up early for an onboard cooking class offered by the ship’s culinary team.

approach to my day. Unlike many other ships I’ve sailed, all dining venues offered plenty of private seating for two people. The smooth handling of port calls and the understated graciousness of every crew and staff member greatly contributed to my relaxation.

Eight onboard restaurants allowed for plenty of culinary exploration, with Italian, French and Asian choices; a sushi bar; and six barlounges that include Jazz Club, Belvedere and Piano Bar. My favorite turned out to be dining on Italian specialties beneath the sea-green Murano glass chandeliers at Serenissima. One of my inner struggles each afternoon was whether to enjoy tea service with something sweet at Belvedere or to surrender to an afternoon craving for freshly made waffles on the Pool Deck.

Leisure options include treatments at the full-service Ocean Spa, where massages, scrubs and facials are supplemented with sea-inspired therapies featuring muds, salts, algae and other marine ingredients. There’s also a peaceful library with stacks and stacks of books, from classics to best-sellers.

◆ Make time for a gallery and art tour: The remarkable 890-piece onboard collection includes works

by Gerhard Richter, David Hockney, Eva Hild, Tenka Gammelgaard and other important artists.

HAPAG LLOYD CRUISES hl-cruises.com

PHOTOS: © HAPAG-LLOYD CRUISES

Guest Quarters: MS EUROPA 2 is an all-suite ship, and each category features generously proportioned spaces. My Veranda Suite measured 301 square feet, with an additional 75 square feet of veranda space; my suite was augmented by 24-hour suite service.

The Scandinavian décor of blond woods and soft shades of coffee and cream added to the sense of serenity that invited lingering over room service and cozying up on one of the full-sized chaise longues on the deck to watch the mountainrimmed fjords slip by.

Luxury components included a separate living space with easy chair, full-sized sectional sofa, large desk, personal tablet and flat-screen television; plus a walk-in closet and a stunning bathroom fitted with a vessel sink, large walk-in rain shower and deep soaking tub. Bath amenities were full-sized.

The concept of casual elegance proved a defining characteristic throughout the cruise. This small ship (maximum guest number is 500) has a yacht-like feel that belies the impressive number of restaurants and onboard spaces. Service was faultless; and smiling, well-informed staff and crew always seemed to be exactly where needed.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Fly High in Luxury New business-class service brings the ultimate in comfort to LATAM passengers.

LATAM AIRLINES CONTINUES to make strides in advancing its own services. Ranging from seats to a revamped culinary service, LATAM Airlines is bringing innovation and excellence to South American travel.

LATAM took its most recent steps into the future this year, when the airline unveiled the fruit of a $400 million investment to make the premier South American airline the best it has ever been.

The overhaul is ongoing and will take a few years to complete. By the end of the retrofit, more than 200 aircraft will sport new interiors.

The enhancements are extensive across the entirety of the aircraft, with the most pronounced changes coming to the airline’s Boeing 767 business-class cabin. The airline asked for feedback and opinions from frequent travelers, and each change is one advocated for by customers.

In business class, the new 1-2-1 configuration gives every passenger direct aisle access.

The new seats also reflect the aesthetic of

South America — from the deserts of Chile to the marble of the Andes — all the natural wonders of the continent are represented. The customdesigned Thompson seats offer more privacy than business travelers ever enjoyed onboard LATAM. The new business cabin is already onboard select Boeing 767s. In the coming years, the new accommodations will come to LATAM’s entire wide-body fleet, including the Boeing 777s, 787-9s and the Airbus A350-1000, still to be delivered.

Updates to LATAM’s premium service are expected to debut later this year. With so many overnight flights, LATAM recognizes the concern of passengers to arrive well rested and the airline is actively working to revamp the culinary service to induce more restful sleep while simultaneously creating fewer disturbances for passengers from flight staff. New bedding and mattresses also increase comfort during flight.

Passengers now also have the option of LATAM+ seats, offering passengers more comfort

than a standard economy fare without the cost of a full business-class upgrade. The new seats offer about four more inches of extra legroom, 40 percent more pitch, an available footrest in certain aircraft models, an exclusive overhead compartment, priority boarding and first deplaning privileges.

Whether you’re traveling to South America for business, leisure or both, there is no better way to get there than by way of LATAM’s new business cabin and service.

LATAM flies out of New York City (JFK), Los Angeles (LAX), Miami (MIA), Orlando (MCO), Boston (BOS) and Las Vegas (LAS). When you fly LATAM’s business class, you will arrive wellrested, on time and ready for whatever your trip has in store.

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NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE

Norwegian Gem

Reviewed by Yasser I. Ogando

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ The excellent service from crew members ◆ The “washy-washy” crew ◆ Slow speed for the internet prices, something most cruise ships could improve ◆ O’Sheehan’s sweet Thai chili wings are a must!

NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE ncl.com

Embarkation/Disembarkation: Taking advantage of living in New York City, we arrived at the port 30 minutes prior to boarding; and although the lines were already long, the staff was well-organized and made the process a smooth and effortless one.

Within 40 minutes we were checked in and on board. Lunch and drinks were available on certain decks as we boarded, so we opted to grab a drink while our rooms were being readied.

Guest Quarters: Our Mini-Suite became available in the early afternoon — a traditional cabin with extra room to spread out, sliding-glass doors to the balcony, a spacious bathroom with bathtub and shower, and more than enough closet space. Upon arrival, we quickly noticed we were given two full beds instead of a queen-sized, but the crew fixed that situation within 15 minutes.

Services/Amenities: Norwegian Gem offered a little bit of everything for everyone. With great entertainment, onboard fitness

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center, fun shore excursions and the salon and spa, this ship had it all. The specialty restaurants were diverse, serving nothing short of delicious, finger-licking food. My favorites were Moderno and Le Bistro; while the latter featured Mediterranean and classic French cuisine, Moderno’s rustic Brazilian steakhouse ambience made our New Year’s Eve dinner memorable. We enjoyed the trivia nights — they were also scheduled throughout the days at sea — and most definitely appreciated the excellent service provided on board. Our cabin steward’s name was Neil; he made sure to greet us every single morning with a smile on his face and a positive and upbeat tone that made the early mornings, well, great!

PHOTOS: © NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE

Ports of Call: The short but sweet 11-night cruise sailed from New York City, making stops in St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands; Castries, St. Lucia; Bridgetown, Barbados; Basseterre, St. Kitts & Nevis; and St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands.

aeromexico.com Talk to your travel agent and make sure your flight is with Aeromexico. Visit one of our store locations, or give us a call at 1 800 237-6639.

one on one

ALICIA CUMMINGS Vice President, Marketing, Paul Gauguin Cruises

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years?

The cruise industry continues to grow and showcase fresh, creative and innovative ideas. New destinations are emerging, and dining, onboard activities, technological advances, sustainability efforts and exclusive experiences raise the bar. Multigenerational and experiential cruising continues as a hot trend in 2020. And cruising remains a great way to explore a variety of destinations at an incredible value.

Best career advice you’ve received: Take advantage of every opportunity even if it doesn’t fall under your job responsibilities. This is how you learn to work with different people and broaden your vision and allows others to see your commitment and strengths.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field?

Find someone you respect and admire and learn all you can from them.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: One of my favorites is my first time snorkeling in Bora Bora. The warm water and kaleidoscopic display of exotic fish and stingrays were breathtaking.

One travel tip you cannot live without: Always carry a light blanket for the plane ride. Inevitably one leg will be miserably cold.

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Best advice for business travelers: If possible, avoid Monday and Friday travel, as those tend to be the busiest days to fly.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can our readers expect from Paul Gauguin’s 2020 itineraries? Paul Gauguin Cruises delivers an authentic experience of Polynesia infused with South Seas exclusives. We bring the destination alive to our guests both ashore and on board. We sail Tahiti, French Polynesia and the South Pacific year-round. Our 2020 schedule features signature voyages to a host of exquisite islands with white-sand beaches, aqua lagoons, mist-laden mountains and warm Polynesian culture. Itineraries include the seven-night Tahiti & the Society Islands; seven-night Society Islands & Tahiti Iti; 10-night Society Islands & Tuamotus; 11-night Cook Islands & Society Islands; and 14-night Marquesas, Tuamotus & Society Islands. Also featured are 12- and 13-night Fiji, Tonga, Cook & Society Islands and an exotic 16-night Fiji-to-Bali voyage.

What does Paul Gauguin offer premium travelers? Designed to sail the pristine lagoons of the islands, the award-winning, 332-guest m/s Paul Gauguin is the longest continually sailing cruise ship in this destination. Nearly 70 percent of its suites and staterooms offer balconies, and upper categories feature butler service. Dining includes L’Etoile, showcasing expertly prepared culinary creations each evening, while La Veranda and Le Grill serve breakfast and lunch. At night, La Veranda offers signature dishes designed by French celebrity chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, and Le Grill serves Polynesian specialties poolside.

Les Gauguines and Les Gauguins — our exclusive troupe of Tahitian entertainers — provide enriching experiences of the destinations throughout each voyage. The Gauguin also features expert lecturers on each voyage, and special guests on select sailings conduct presentations on topics ranging from the history of the South Pacific to conservation, culture, marine life and coral reefs. A luxurious spa, fitness center, watersports marina with kayaking and paddle boarding, and expansive outdoor decks with chaise longues and a pool are also available.

Each sailing provides exclusive access to Motu Mahana, our private islet off the coast of Taha’a, where guests enjoy sunbathing, swimming, snorkeling, kayaking, Polynesian activities, a full-service bar, a floating lagoon bar and a delicious barbecue. In Bora Bora, guests enjoy complimentary access to a private, white-sand beach with beach volleyball, sunbathing, snorkeling and paddle boarding.

With Ponant acquiring Paul Gauguin, what does the future hold for the company? This acquisition allows Paul Gauguin Cruises to expand the brand and offer additional luxury, small-ship experiences. We remain dedicated to our shared passion for authentic experiences, exceptional services and sustainable practices.

PHOTO: © PAUL GAUGUIN CRUISES

Name: Alicia Cummings Title: Vice president, marketing Company, city: Paul Gauguin Cruises; Bellevue, Washington Number of employees: 50 in the marketing, sales and operations departments in Bellevue Recent project: Planning our marketing efforts for 2020 First job: Driving a wheat truck on our small family farm in Eastern Washington Little-known fact about you: I drove a 1965 Ford Mercury throughout high school.

technology

POWERFUL OPTIONS Adaptability is the name of the game for these smart devices. BY JACK GUY

BEURER WL90 If you struggle to get going during the dark winter months, a wake-up light like the WL90 might be the solution. It mimics sunlight to help you wake up naturally and feel more refreshed, producing increasingly bright light in the run-up to your alarm going off. It also simulates daylight, which can help improve the effects of seasonal affective disorder. The WL90 doubles as a reading lamp and music player and provides a USB port to charge your smartphone. Set up your favored configuration using the Beurer LightUp app to make sure you wake up feeling rested. $150. beurer.com

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SAMSUNG GALAXY FOLD It may have been delayed due to screen issues, but Samsung’s foldable smartphone now means you can enjoy a 7.3inch Dynamic AMOLED screen that doubles over on itself to fit right into your pocket. In the folded position you can use the 4.6-inch cover display, which itself is larger than the screen on the iPhone SE. It also boasts six cameras, 12GB of RAM and 512GB storage in what looks like an impressive package. As powerful as the Galaxy Fold may be, the price tag will make some potential buyers think twice. $1,980. samsung.com

DELL LATITUDE 7400 2-IN-1 Business travelers place unique demands on their laptops, and Dell came up with a machine that meets all of them with ease. An Intel Whiskey Lake processor and 16GB of RAM provide the power, while a 14-inch 1080p touchscreen adds finesse. As a 2-in-1 system, the 7400 is slightly thicker than a pure laptop, but it’s still sleek. That’s something of a feat given the massive 78Wh battery that powers the whole thing for up to 18 hours, plus the look is a bit classier than your standard business laptop. $2,800. dell.com

PHOTOS: © SONY, © BEURER, © SAMSUNG, © DELL

SONYWF-1000XM3 These completely wireless, noise-cancelling headphones have taken the world by storm since their release, thanks to top build quality and great features. Adjust the noise-cancelling level by tapping the left earbud, and use the right to control phone calls and audio playback. Finetune the experience using the accompanying Sony app, and enjoy up to six hours of playback with noise-cancelling switched on. A sound enhancement engine improves the quality of compressed content, and the only real drawback is a lack of water-resistance, which means you can’t wear them in the rain or during workouts. $230. sony.com

VOTED WORLD’S BEST WI-FI SERVICE

9 Years

& Counting With Boingo as your trusted travel companion, getting online is a snap at more than 1 million hotspots worldwide.

There’s a reason why travelers around the world rely on Boingo to stay connected on the go—and we suspect it has nothing to do with our good looks or charming personality. Maybe it’s our awesome network of more than one million Wi-Fi hotspots. Or it could be our insanely-fast speeds. How about Boingo Passpoint for a revolutionary, seamless and secure Wi-Fi experience? Then again, it might be the convenience of fast, friendly customer care at your service 24-hours a day, every day of the year!

Whatever the reason, we’d love to show you why the readers of Global Traveler have voted us the best Wi-Fi service for a record nine years and counting. Get to know Boingo at www.boingo.com

wine & spirits

SIP AND SAIL Visit wineries along historic rivers on an AmaWaterways wine cruise.

IT IS IN THE NATURE OF THINGS we love to want to trace them to their beginnings. It is also in the nature of things we love to enjoy sharing them with others. Put the two together, add a ship, and that is what wine enthusiasts can expect on a wine cruise. Sail along historic rivers, disembark to visit wineries, walk the vineyards, taste the wines and later, on the ship, enjoy dinner with other wine lovers while sipping wines highlighting your meal.

A wine-rich day ends with a peaceful night’s sleep as the ship sails on to tomorrow’s vinous treat.

One of the world’s cruise lines, AmaWaterways, offers the wine lover a host of such pleasures. It has, in fact, 65 wine-themed cruises scheduled along Europe’s rivers for 2020. They cover wineries along the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers in Bordeaux, the Rhine, the Main, the Danube and other rivers, visiting famed wine regions and introducing guests to less well-known ones.

For example, AmaWaterways’ seven-day Taste of Bordeaux cruise begins and ends in the city of Bordeaux and introduces passengers to both well-known and lesser-known châteaux.

Another of its French wine cruises, Colors of Provence, sails along the Rhône River from Lyon to Arles.

Moving eastward in Europe, the cruise line’s seven-day Gems of Southeast Europe embarks from Budapest and sails along the Danube River through the less familiar wine worlds of Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Romania and Turkey.

A new AmaWaterways wine cruise, Treasures of the Main and Rhine Rivers, leaves from Nuremberg and finishes in Amsterdam, with visits to wineries and vineyards as well as medieval architectural treasures along the rivers.

A cruise sailing from Amsterdam to Basel, AmaWaterways’ Rhine & Moselle Fairy Tales, feels, at times, like a fairy tale come to life as it combines Europe’s steepest vineyards along the Moselle with lovely white wines and old, storybooklike villages.

And AmaWaterways offers still more wine cruises. Prices vary according to the cruise, the choice of stateroom and the length of the sail. Welcome aboard.

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BY EUNICE FRIED

RIVERSIDE VINES:

Rüdesheim vineyard (above), and (left) Dürnstein wine tasting PHOTOS: © AMAWATERWAYS

of dies o b e ate Larg oder s, m r wate climate st by near s why mo hi whic world’s e s of th ineyard v e . prim g rivers n o l lie a

wealth

VIRTUAL REALITY

PHOTO: © NICHOLAS MOORE - DREAMSTIME.COM

The IRS puts cryptocurrency owners on notice. BY MARK DIMICHAEL, PARTNER, CITRIN COOPERMAN

TIME IS NOT ON THE SIDE of taxpayers who failed to report their Bitcoin and other virtual currency transactions to the IRS. The IRS recently announced it is sending letters to virtual currency owners who have not reported transactions on income tax returns. By the end of August, more than 10,000 taxpayers received these letters.

The IRS refers to the letters as “educational letters,” advising the taxpayers to amend their returns. By “educating” these taxpayers, the IRS appears to be setting the table for future, more serious enforcement such as criminal prosecution, which requires intent or willfulness to evade taxes.

This is the fallout of a November 2017 legal victory for the IRS over Coinbase regarding a customer record subpoena. Coinbase was required to comply with the subpoena, but it is unknown if the IRS has successfully obtained data from other third-party exchanges as well. Additionally, the IRS has been performing blockchain data analytics with third-party vendors such as Chainalysis. As a result, the IRS amassed a large amount of data on virtual currency transactions

that it is ready to put to use.

IRS Notice 2014-21 states virtual currency is to be treated as “property.” Therefore, the general tax principles for property apply to virtual currencies.

Since transactions are reported on tax returns in U.S. dollars, taxpayers are required to determine the fair market value of virtual currency as of the date of payment or receipt. If a virtual currency is listed on an exchange and the exchange rate is established by market supply and demand, that exchange rate can be used … but it must be applied in a “reasonable manner that is consistently applied.”

Virtual currency prices are notoriously volatile; therefore, precise data should be used to the extent that it is available and practical, such as price by the hour or price by the minute, rather than an average daily price. Minute-byminute Bitcoin prices are available on coindesk.com by obtaining a daily pricing graph and exporting the information to a CSV file (such as a spreadsheet or database).

Additionally, certain exchanges only price virtual currencies in terms of Bitcoin, rather than in terms of U.S. dollars (for example, ETH priced at 0.0216 BTC). In those cases, a two-step conversion may be needed, first converting the transaction to Bitcoin and then converting to U.S. dollars.

Be aware regulatory agencies have not provided much guidance regarding digital asset accounting, auditing and taxes.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice.

Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.

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tours

BY LAND AND BY SEA Cruise tours take passengers off ship for a deeper look at destinations.

CRUISING HAS CHANGED DRAMATICALLY over the past century, first providing travelers with a means of transportation and then ushering in a new era that attracted leisure travelers looking for variety in the midnight buffets and activity on the shuffleboard courts. The new generation of cruisers takes cruising to an entirely new realm, where passengers split their time on and off the boat for an equal mix of time on the water and on the shore.

In Peru, Aqua Expeditions’ Aria Amazon takes up to 32 passengers deep into the Peruvian Amazon and the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve to explore the unspoiled rainforest as passengers spend their days off the boat and nights on board. Small-group excursions cap out at eight passengers per guide; the highly experienced naturalist guides provide insight as the group enters deep within the rainforest for nature hikes, medicinal plant walks and even encounters with local tribes of the Amazon rainforest.

The latest in land and sea offerings is something known as the “cruise tour.” Cruise tours are land tours typically undertaken before or after the cruise itself to bring passengers deeper into the interior of a destination. Many cruise tours bring passengers to places that are mainly accessible by cruise ship, like the Galápagos Islands and Antarctica, but all of them offer guests the chance to get off the boat and explore some of the world’s most amazing destinations.

Princess Cruises offers four unique cruise tours of Alaska, each including a seven-day cruise with options to extend before or after for anywhere from three to 10 nights. The three- to six-night cruise tour proves the most popular option, as it includes up to four nights in the Denali area with a stay at the exclusive Princess Wilderness Lodge where guests can sleep among the wildlife (caribou, moose, wolves, bald eagles) in the comfort of a luxury lodge with all the amenities.

Guests travel directly from the cruise port via the Direct-to-theWilderness program, or Princess Alaska rail service, and can choose from optional excursions even once at the lodge, from flightseeing tours to jetboat safaris along the Nenana River.

In Europe, Classic Journeys combines the best of cruise touring with river cruising, as it recently launched its European River Cruises. Each eight-day cruise brings no more than 18 guests on board with a Classic Journeys guide who takes care of the group’s needs on the ship but also takes them to off-the-beaten path experiences on land. From meeting local olive oil makers in Portugal to cooking with Michelin-starred chefs along the Rhône River, the bespoke adventures on land complement the luxury experiences enjoyed back on the ship.

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BY KRISTY ALPERT

e clusiv all-in e r t e a y ises ave t cru urs h s o o t m e euis ugh e som ny cr Altho rs ar s, ma e y g a ls n a d e e s as nm these uit. P ir ow e s h he t w t o r l l e fo with to fo nsibl heck o c p ; s s e r e r ou ar times the f and t what ome l s e e g s n i to dur vider e pro s i u r c s. cover ALASKA ADVENTURE:

Guests enjoy wildlife in the Denali area with a stay at the Princess Wilderness Lodge.

PHOTOS: © PRINCESS CRUISES

IF YOU’VE SEEN ONE TAHITIAN ISLAND YOU’VE SEEN, WELL, ONE TAHITIAN ISLAND.

This isn’t just one Tahitian island aboard a boutique cruise – it’s six. It’s not just fire dancers, but a Bora Bora Celebration feast on a private motu under the stars.

It’s not just a cruise ship, but a ship with four sails carrying only 148 guests and a complimentary Watersports Platform. It’s not just shore excursions, but jet ski and heritage tours that have been experienced firsthand and selected by our product managers. This is how you experience Tahiti 180 degrees from ordinary.

Call your travel advisor, or Windstar Cruises at 866-248-3525. WindstarCruises.com

spas

BLISSFULLY ADRIFT Indulge in serene spa time aboard Crystal Serenity. BY DEBRA BOKUR

SMOOTH SAILING: Crystal Serenity PHOTO: © CRYSTAL CRUISES

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FOR THOSE OF US PASSIONATE about wellness pursuits and who feel most at peace close to the sea, there’s nothing quite like the synergy offered by a floating spa integrated into the setting of a luxurious cruise ship. I’m sailing through the Mediterranean from Rome to Barcelona, discovering along the way that the Crystal Life Spa & Beauty Salon on board the Crystal Serenity provides not only the element of high-end indulgence but also the cruise line’s signature commitment to attention and service.

One of the defining structural characteristics of a crystal is its symmetry — a kind of harmony of composition that lies beneath the surface, providing a foundational framework for its beauty. Crystal Serenity’s spa carries that concept even further with respect to space.

The spa itself was designed to incorporate the guiding principles of Chinese feng shui, with the careful placement of furniture and objects helping to establish an optimal flow of positive energy that greets and surrounds each guest who enters.

I’ve left my husband to oversee the chilling of a bottle of Prosecco while I make my way to the Sun Deck, the location of the spa. At the reception desk, Spa & Salon manager Sarah Armstrong tells me most

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of the treatment rooms have water views, designed to enhance the sense of place.

Beyond the windows of the relaxation area, a wide deck filled with a sort of beach comprising softly rounded stones enhances the connection to nature. The choice of artwork and sculpture on display makes the spa space even more peaceful: a water feature by English artist Allison Armour-Wilson, a lovely reproduction of an Asian chest, and a series of gold wood panels by John Newman of South Africa.

Armstrong seats me in the lounge with a fruited herbal tisane to sip while I peruse the menu of available treatment choices. I’m pleased to see Chinese herbal medicine consultations and acupuncture on offer, as I have regular treatments at home to deal with a difficult knee. But I’m on the Mediterranean, and the only sensible choice is an ELEMIS Aroma Spa Seaweed Wrap with Massage.

The detoxifying treatment begins with a heated seaweed mask applied from my neck down. Though I’d secretly worried there might be a fishy scent to deal with, I needn’t have wasted my energy. The ELEMIS scent is delicate and pleasant, and the wrap that follows the application of the seaweed and essential oil blend is warm and com-

forting. I drift in and out of half-dreams until it’s time to rinse off and surrender to a full-body massage.

Inspired by the artwork in the spa — and with some time on my hands before pre-dinner drinks — I embark on a meditative solo walkabout to explore the ship’s art collection, concentrating on the displays arranged at stairwell landings and in the public spaces near the restaurants, cafés and bars on lower decks. The collection is enormous, and by the time I’ve arrived back in my penthouse suite to join my husband on our veranda for a glass of perfectly chilled Prosecco, my head is dangerously filled with home redecorating ideas.

The following day, I arrive early at the spa for a workout in the Techno Gym then enjoy a relaxing session in the steam and sauna baths and beneath the shower area’s mist and rain features. Access to both the fitness area and heat cabins is complimentary to all guests, with separate steam and sauna facilities for men and women, with swimsuits optional. The spa area also encompasses a full-service salon and barbershop, with four stylists ready to trim, style, shave and blow-dry. Teeth whitening is even offered, while the extensive options at the Medi-Spa include DYSPORT wrinkle treatments; Restylane dermal filler treatments; and non-invasive Thermage skin-tightening treatments for face, neck and tummy.

I’ve booked a Freestyle Deep Tissue Massage.

After making my aromatic oil selection from choices that include muscle pain relief, relaxation, emotional balance and stress relief, my therapist does a light dry brushing, explaining this will prepare my skin for the most advantageous absorption of the oil’s healing botanical components.

For the better part of an hour, I’m blissfully adrift as she kneads, stretches and works the tight muscles of my shoulders and hamstrings. By the end of the treatment, I feel delightfully loose and slightly floppy, and I lie with my eyes closed until I hear the music of tinkling chimes sounding the end of the massage.

I sense the therapist stepping away, and though I can’t detect the sound of the door closing, I’m suddenly aware I’m alone.

TOTAL TRANQUILITY: Crystal Life Spa & Salon’s Japanese whirlpool (above) and relaxation area (left) PHOTOS: © CRYSTAL CRUISES

The vibration from the chimes lingers, briefly, in my muscles and tissues. I stretch beneath the blanket: first one arm, then the other, and come gently to a sitting position. The room is warm and sweetly scented. I sense the subtle movement of the ship as it glides through the Mediterranean toward Cannes and our next port of call, everything, including me, perfectly in balance.

NOVEMBER 2019

Crystal Cruises crystalcruises.com

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golf

A CENTURY OF PLAY Tee up at historic Philmont Country Club’s North Course. BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

TREE LINE: Hole 2

PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

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ONE OF THE EARLIEST GOLF CLUBS in the United States, Philmont Country Club opened in 1906 when prominent businessmen with nationally recognized names like Gimble and Strawbridge decided to build a country club. Its location on the Reading Railroad line made it easily accessible to the titans of Philadelphia industry.

Originally offering nine holes, the course expanded to 36, consisting of the North and South courses. Concert Golf recently purchased Philmont, infusing much-needed capital and infrastructure improvements to enhance the North Course.

Unfortunately, long before Concert took over, the South Course was left to seed. The influx of cash will allow for significant pruning and removal of overgrown trees and replacement of the bunkers back to the 1923 design revisions of Willie Park, Jr. Park, a prolific golf course designer, ball and club manufacturer and golf writer, twice won the U.S. Open. His Sunningdale Old Course southwest of London is considered one of the best in the world.

When Philmont celebrated its 100th anniversary, it produced a wonderful commemorative book (Philmont Country Club: The First Hundred Years), which I read from cover to cover.

I teed up on a fall-like summer day, June 14, with Chris “Yammi”

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Ottaunick, Lucky Bob Hancock and Paul Gosselin to see what Philmont had in store for us. After an enjoyable lunch in the clubhouse grill, we hit a few balls on the driving range and headed to the course.

HOLE 2 | 415 yards, par 4

At the tee box, and without prior course knowledge, you face a daunting narrow fairway — even before you know about the pond you must carry to hit the green in regulation. We were all happy with our tee shots, but Bob and I sank our second shots in the drink.

Yammi and Paul were the stars even though the best score was a 5.

This would be a good redo hole with our new course knowledge.

HOLE 3 | 160 yards, par 3

After licking my wounds from the previous hole, I was ready to get my game back, so I quickly teed up and fired away with my 8-iron.

It looked like a beauty in the air, but I feared it was too strong. The ball bounced on the green, and I was in line for a birdie. The green sits blind from the tee box, but the multibunkering around the green offers great definition. Paul and Bob struggled while Yammi followed directly behind me with a clear shot to the green. The green undula-

tions took our birdies, but a par satisfied me after my previous lashing.

HOLE 5 | 439 yards, par 4

Paul and I slammed perfect drives, Paul’s passing mine by about 20 yards. The comedy show started when both Yammi and Bob topped their drives, landing on the side of the creek bed just in front of the tee box. Yammi nailed his second shot to get back in the game. Bob, on the other hand, hit the creek bank and then with an impressive 3-wood landed the ball behind him, beginning a plethora of shot errors. The hole continues uphill with large bunkering around the green. Due to the height difference, it is impossible to see the surface of the green from the fairway, but it is rather large.

Yammi and I pulled out bogeys, his more impressive due to his start, and Paul’s second shot to the green went wild and a little left, stealing his chance for par.

HOLE 9 | 574 yards, par 5

As our closing hole, this one really beat us up! It’s impossible to get to this green in two. The fairway turns to the right in a severe dogleg with the green tucked in further to the right. To make matters worse, the fairway is narrow with an abundance of tall trees lining either side.

I clipped a tree on the right, sending me on a downward spiral. Paul slammed one left, knocking around the trees on that side. Yammi and Bob hit square drives but too far right to help them get around the corner as the hole climbs up toward the clubhouse. No history books written here, with two bogeys and two double bogeys. I am not sure we could have done better even with course knowledge. Willie Park is laughing at us for sure.

HOLE 11 | 245 yards, par 3

Coming off 10, we were warmed up and raring to go. I teed up first and sailed my 5-wood to the green, much to the surprise of the group. This long par 3 to a slightly elevated green from an elevated tee box features traps guarding the left and right front sides. The green is large, so you have a big target.

Yammi decided the green was not large enough, though, so he launched a ball left and onto the tee box of Hole 12, starting a succession of hiccups that turned a par 3 into a par 6. The rest of the team came up a little short, ending with respectable bogeys while I missed my birdie putt for a par.

HOLE 14 | 488 yards, par 4

This sizable par 4 runs uphill to the green. Carding a 5 on this hole is an achievement which three of us accomplished.

The dogleg turns right a little early in the fairway, making the drive crucial.

Securing par requires a combination of landing your tee shot in the right location, left of the fairway, and then launching your approach more than 200 yards. We all came up short, but our chipping skills got us back on the board on the second-most difficult hole on the course.

HOLE 18 | 394 yards, par 4

The finishing hole on Philmont offers a striking view of the clubhouse.

Unfortunately, my ball striking was not up to the view. I took my drive way too right … but not in the trees and reachable to the green. Of course, Yammi and Bob decided to drive the carts all over, looking for their balls which were a little farther and to the right. While lining up my shot, I should have regrouped as I could clearly see Yammi in my peripheral vision — resulting in a lousy shot which I immediately blamed on him! A couple of chips later I was on the green and we were putting. Keep in mind the fairway runs left to right, so most balls off the tee end up on the right side. The green is one of the smallest at Philmont, so accuracy (and not playing with Yammi) is key.

BANK SHOT:

Hole 11 (top); and Bob hitting a ball from the creek side (bottom) PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

PHILMONT COUNTRY CLUB 301 Tomlinson Road Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006 tel 215 947 1271 philmontcc.org

NOVEMBER 2019

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chefs

DINING DELIGHTS Chef Arnis Maskevics takes guests on a culinary adventure aboard Hotel Barge La Belle Epoque. BY KIMBERLY KROL

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WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? I was inspired at an early age by my grandmother. We spent a lot of time at her house in rural Latvia where there were no local shops, so she used everything available to her from her garden and the surrounding land.

I’ve always been amazed at the diversity she could create with the same basic ingredients such as rice, eggs and potatoes. I think this is reflected in my cooking and menus; I try to push the limits with basic ingredients, finding new ways of cooking and presenting. For me, it is about changing guests’ perception of food.

WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? I don’t have a singular culinary hero. It has been a collective experience about curiosity and meeting new people from different cultures. I’ve traveled extensively, and it’s the people who show me new ways of mixing ingredients and preparing meals that are my culinary heroes. If you keep your eyes, ears (and taste buds!) open, you’re guaranteed to be inspired, be it by a street vendor preparing paella in the heart of Barcelona or an experimental English chef at a seaside restaurant exquisitely searing the catch of the day.

WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE? Again, for me there is no one person; it is interlinked with my travel. My influences, like my meals, are a

NOVEMBER 2019

mixture of things. My own Latvian background and upbringing is one, but also the flair I’ve taken from working in Spain, the presentation and detail from the exacting chefs I worked with in France, and the innovation and experimentation constantly promoted in England. Experimentation suits cooking because there are no real rules; it is a constantly evolving adventure.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? London. There is nowhere else on the planet capable of contending with the myriad different cuisines on show. And it isn’t all expensive — some of the best food here is affordable for everyone.

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? More and more guests want an authentic sampling of the cuisine indigenous to the region. Food is an integral and participatory element of the holiday experience; guests want high-quality, locally sourced food that has a story. I think there will be an increase in demand for food locally and sustainably sourced, hence why chefs must be able to create a large variety of tastes and texture from the same basic ingredients, just like my grandmother taught me!

EUROPEAN WATERWAYS europeanwaterways.com

PHOTOS: © EUROPEAN WATERWAYS LTD

AS TRAVELERS SAIL on European Waterways’ luxury hotel barges, their taste buds are delighted by a resident master chef preparing dishes reminiscent of the region they are cruising in using fresh, local ingredients. For passengers aboard Hotel Barge La Belle Epoque, Chef Arnis Maskevics provides an outstanding gastronomic experience.

Maskevics, born in Latvia, lived in and worked all over Europe, picking up the nuances and customs of various cultures’ cuisines. In 2018 he joined European Waterways and has been wowing guests with his high-end culinary creations ever since. His dishes, paired with a selection of fine wines, perfectly complement the beautiful natural surroundings of the European waterways.

PHOTOS: © YASSER OGANDO, © STEPHANIE MAKOWSKI, © ACCELERATORHAMS| DREAMSTIME.COM, © AGAMI PHOTO AGENCY | DREAMSTIME.COM, © DIEGO GRANDI | DREAMSTIME.COM, © LUCY CLARK | DREAMSTIME.COM, © PIUS LEE - DREAMSTIME.COM, © RADU RAZVAN GHEORGHE - DREAMSTIME.COM, © MILKOS - DREAMSTIME.COM

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cruising

BON VOYAGE A new season rings in a record year for cruising.

BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

ALTHOUGH THE UNITED STATES ELIMINATED its cruise travel to Cuba in June, affecting some 800,000 passengers, travel by sea shows no sign of slowing worldwide, and cruise lines are expanding their fleets and destinations for 2020, expected to be a record year. North Americans will make up nearly half of the expected 30 million passengers in the coming year, an increase spurred on by the continuing popularity of cruises to Alaska, the Caribbean and the Mediterranean, along with the rising tide of river cruises and expedition-style sailing.

A score of brand-new ships, ranging from luxury-laden yachts to lavish floating resorts, will take to the waters in 2020. Virgin Voyages launches its first vessel, the 2,800-passenger Scarlet Lady, while The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection introduces the first of its three yachts, the 298-passenger Azora.

Princess Cruises will showcase its newest ship, the 3,660-passenger Enchanted Princess, on 21 alternating seven-day Caribbean sailings out of Fort Lauderdale starting in November 2020.

In most cases, new ships mean added luxuries and novel features. Celebrity Cruises’ new ship for 2020, the 2,800-passenger Celebrity Apex, will feature the “Magic Carpet,” a movable deck cantilevered over the side of the ship that elevates from decks 2 to 16 to serve as a restaurant and embarkation platform. P&O’s new Iona, powered by liquid natural gas, includes a half-mile-long lanai deck featuring 17 eateries, 12 bars, 13 entertainment venues, 16 whirlpools and four swimming pools.

Silversea Cruises will debut two new ships in 2020, the 596-passenger Silver Moon and the 100-passenger Silver Origin, an ultra-luxury expedition ship specially designed for Galápagos cruising, with eight Zodiacs and butler service for all suites.

Among other full-luxury expedition ships christened next year are Lindblad Expeditions’ 126-passenger National Geographic Endurance, with saunas, yoga rooms and infinity Jacuzzis; Crystal Cruises’ 200-passenger Crystal Endeavor, designed for polar exploration with helicopters and a submarine aboard; and Scenic Cruises’ 228-passenger, all-suite Scenic Eclipse II, also with its own submarine and helicopters as well as 10 dining options, a gym and butler service.

While smaller ships with bigger luxuries are leading the way in 2020, new mega-ships have not been pushed aside. Royal Caribbean will launch another in its line of behemoth cruisers, the 4,246-passenger Odyssey of the Seas, complete with room for bumper cars, robotic bartenders and “virtual balconies” for its inside cabins. MSC Cruises’ MSC Virtuoso is laden with 6,334

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tion lora p x e w t for rand-ne b t spo o d h d a rld a g as niwo ergin U m e d n . ypt ng a 020 h Eg Viki in 2 h t e Wit l o i b the N sing, crui s to p i h ry s luxu

DEBUTS AT SEA:

Roller coaster on Carnival Cruise Line’s Carnival Mardi Gras (top), and Crystal Cruises’ Crystal Endeavor (bottom) PHOTOS: © CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE, © CRYSTAL CRUISES

passenger berths, a fine arts museum, “cluster cabins” for families, Cirque du Soleil performances and a double-deck amusement park. And Carnival Cruise Line’s Carnival Mardi Gras, coming August 2020, will accommodate 6,600 passengers, a new world record.

feature

A Sea of Choices How do you decide which cruise line is right for you?

UP NORTH: Norwegian Pearl in Alaska PHOTO: © NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE

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CONSIDERING TAKING A CRUISE FOR your next vacation? You’re not alone. According to the Cruise Line Industry Association, 25.8 million people cruised in 2017.

But with more than 50 cruise lines to choose from, each with its own personality, making the right choice presents a dizzying challenge, particularly if you’ve never cruised before.

“First-time passengers often have preconceived

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NOVEMBER 2019

BY KATIE MCELVEEN

notions about what they will and won’t like,” said Carmen Roig, senior vice president of marketing and sales, Crystal Cruises. Research supports Roig’s experience: A recent study by CLIA indicated many services and activities clients deem important, such as child care, are underutilized, while onboard entertainment and shows, a deciding factor for only about 36 percent of passengers, see around 70 percent of a ship’s guests by

the end of the cruise.

So what’s the best way to determine which cruise line is right for you? Experts say once you’ve decided on a budget and a destination, look through each line’s specific offerings to build a profile of what’s important and what’s not. Once you’ve narrowed your choices down to two or three lines, sit down with an experienced travel advisor who can fine-tune your notes with real-life experience. “A client recently booked herself in top-tier lodging in a middle-market cruise line,” said Sandra Sparks, advisor, Pro Travel International, a Virtuoso-affiliated agency located in Tarzana, California. “She’d assumed that her big suite would come with priority boarding, but it didn’t, and she was disappointed. A travel advisor would have known that and steered her to a different line.”

Michela Bisciglia, travel planner, Specialty Cruise and Villas, part of the Virtuoso network of travel agencies located in Gig Harbor, Washington, says determining where you land on the topic of inclusions — the activities and amenities included in the cruise fare — should be among the first things to consider in choosing a cruise line. “Some clients love the idea of not getting a bill at the end of their vacation or being able to join friends for a drink and not worry about who will pay the check at the end of the night,” she said. “Others feel like an all-inclusive cruise forces them to pay for everyone else’s splurges and activities. Once you add it all up, the cost is really about the same, so it really boils down to preference. Value is absolutely subjective.”

Lauren Frye, who works with Scenic Cruises, suggests looking at how much freedom you want or need. “Included excursions make it easy to get out and explore a place without adding to the cost of your vacation,” she said. “But if you’d rather spend your days on your own, look for a cruise line that facilitates individual exploration as well. On Scenic Cruises, for instance, bikes are free and available. If you’d rather not participate in the tours, they’re a great way to see a town on your own.”

Before tossing a cruise line overboard because you don’t want or need planned excursions, take a hard look at the destination and the included excursions offered. Some, like a behind-the-scenes tour of a Sri Lankan tea plantation (Regent Seven Seas) or a meal in the home of a local family, offered by river cruise lines including Viking, AmaWaterways and Uniworld, are challenging if not impossible to pull together on your own. Check

RIVER ROUTE: Scenic Azure exterior (top) and e-bike excursion PHOTOS: © SCENIC LUXURY CRUISES

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LIVING LARGE: Guests enjoying the FlowRider on Royal Caribbean’s Quantum of the Seas (top), and Cunard’s Costa Fortuna at Port Nagasaki (bottom) PHOTOS: © ROYAL CARIBBEAN, © CUNARD

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out where you’ll be docked, too. River cruise vessels are generally small enough to dock in town, making solo expeditions easy; oceangoing ships often must utilize ports located miles from the center of town.

Ship size can also steer you toward a specific line. Cruisers looking for mega-fun should consider Norwegian and Royal Caribbean, who sail some of the largest ships at sea. These floating cities, along with ships under the Carnival, Celebrity and Disney flags, are also top choices for kids, thanks to activities like giant water slides, zip lines and surf simulators. But you can have a luxury experience aboard a large ship, too.

Cunard and Princess both sail large, amenity-laden vessels known for elegant service; another approach is to book a conciergelevel suite on lines like Disney, Norwegian and MSC, which offer exclusive access to features like private pools, relaxation areas and restaurants but with full access to all the fun. Multigenerational travelers should consider this strategy — it’s an easy way for family members at different ends of the financial spectrum to travel together.

One of the best features about cruising is the chance to experience a number of locales without having to pack up each day.

But being on a cruise also means sticking to an itinerary. Some cruise lines travel by night, giving passengers full days to discover each city. Others allow passengers to see a city after dark by planning late departures or even overnight stays. As you compare brands, be sure the time spent in each destination matches the way you hope to enjoy it.

Azamara Cruises, for instance, organizes overnight, off-ship excursions that allow passengers on various voyages to take in a safari, tour the Kremlin in Moscow and visit remote areas of Myanmar; Royal Caribbean and Celebrity (also known for its overnights in port, particularly in the Caribbean) offer similar programs. Even if your ship doesn’t offer latenight enrichment, if there’s a city you’re keen on exploring, make sure the itinerary offered includes enough time there.

In rare cases an itinerary will be so special only a small number of brands make that particular voyage. Norwegian Cruise Line is famous for its cruise around Hawai’i which begins and ends in the islands instead of a port like Los Angeles or Vancouver; CroisiEurope uses a specially built ship to sail the Loire River in France and is one of the few lines to offer a cruise that explores the Croatian archipelago. In Norway, Hurtigruten stops at dozens of tiny towns from Bergen to the Norway/Russia border.

Passengers can disembark anywhere along the way and re-embark (on another ship) when they’re ready to continue their journey.

Adventurers with a bent toward luxury will want to look at the new class of expedition ships by Ponant, Silversea, Celebrity and Seabourn, all of which deliver a 5-star experience to cruisers looking to hike, swim, trek and climb in remote locales like the Galápagos Islands and Antarctica.

“People travel today with a sense of purpose,” says Navin Sawhney, CEO, Americas, Ponant. “Expedition cruising draws those who have never considered a cruise.”

As you consider various cruise brands, don’t forget loyalty programs, which offer access to exclusive onboard events as well as shipboard credit, cabin upgrades, booking discounts, priority boarding and other perks. Carnival’s program even includes kids.

Cruise ships of old were known for stuffy dining rooms serving uninspired cuisine, midnight buffets and watery drinks. Today’s ships offer a huge variety of quality dining experiences ranging from the extravagant — Oceania’s new Dom Perignon tasting menu — to the flat-out fun of kids dining with Disney characters. Flexibility is a key question: Some cruise lines offer set seating times for dinner; others allow passengers to dine when and where they prefer.

Foodies will want to check out specialty dining options that include well-known American brands like Johnny Rockets (Royal Caribbean) and Guy’s Burger Joint (Carnival) to fleet-specific restaurants created in partnership with celebrity chefs such as Nobu Matsuhisa (Crystal Cruises), Jacques Pepin (Oceania), Thomas Keller (Seabourn), Jamie Oliver (Royal Caribbean) and Daniel Boulud (Celebrity Cruises).

Prices vary: Guy’s Burger Joint, Nobu’s Umi Uma and Pepin’s Red Ginger are complimentary; others may pack a hefty supplement or limit you to one visit per cruise.

The good news: Even if everything isn’t perfect on the line you choose, you’re bound to have fun. Cruise ships make vacation easy and let you see a bit of the world along the way.

PERFECT PAIRINGS: Oceania’s new Dom Perignon tasting menu PHOTOS: © OCEANIA

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feature

Cruising the Continent New ships and itineraries fuel interest around North America.

BY KATHERINE RODEGHIER

CRUISE PASSENGERS WILL FIND more choices in ports and itineraries in North America in 2020, from paddle wheelers plying the Mississippi River to ocean liners skirting the East and West coasts of the United States and the Maritime Provinces of Canada. Alaska continues as a hot spot, with steady growth in passengers on vessels big and small. Cruising the Great Lakes, once a niche market, is going mainstream to address travelers’ increasing curiosity about these five inland seas.

“Cruise ships have plied our waters for years,” said David Lorenz, chair, Cruise the Great Lakes, a collaboration of cruise lines and tourism bureaus formed in 2018 to promote cruising in the region. “The market has grown organically in recent years despite the lack of a consistent regional brand or marketing program.” Citing traffic of nearly 100,000 passenger port visits last year, he said the Cruise the Great Lakes initiative will “position the region for sustained cruising growth for years to come.”

From spring to fall, Great Lakes cruises venture across these vast inland waterways for “sea

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days” with no land in sight. Ships dock near the heart of cities, making it easy for passengers to explore on their own or take an excursion often included in the fare. Chicago and Toronto are frequent embarkation and disembarkation points, with port calls at Detroit and Mackinac Island, Michigan; Cleveland, Ohio; and Manitoulin Island, Ontario. Vessels are small enough to enter locks, including the busy Soo Locks between lakes Superior and Huron, and the eight locks of the Welland Canal bypassing Niagara Falls.

“There’s a bright future ahead for the Great Lakes,” said Luis de Sousa Marques, hotel director, Victory Cruise Lines. Its two 202-passenger vessels, Victory I and Victory II, were acquired by American Queen Steamboat Co., remodeled and relaunched on the Great Lakes in 2019. Groups had primarily booked the ships, but the new owners are targeting individuals.

Pearl Seas Cruises offers two itineraries between Milwaukee and Toronto. Its fully stabilized 210-passenger Pearl Mist offers large outside

staterooms with private balconies. Blount Small Ship Adventures sails two 83-passenger vessels, has a BYOB policy and remains the only overnight cruise line on the Erie Canal, transited on its Chicago–New York City itinerary.

Coming to the Great Lakes next year, the 230-passenger expedition ship Hanseatic Inspiration, launched by Hapag-Lloyd Cruises this October, will make two 14-day voyages, including a rare crossing of Lake Superior.

One of the world’s most popular cruise destinations, Alaska was expected to break its cruise record with 1.3 million passengers once the 2019 season final tally comes in. Those cruisers traveled on more than 20 cruise lines operating 40 ships, ranging from expedition vessels to luxury liners and with capacities from 10 to more than 4,000 passengers. Cruises along the thousandmile Inside Passage and around Southeast Alaska make stops in the capital, Juneau, and settlements such as Sitka, Skagway and Ketchikan tied to the state’s gold rush, pioneer and Native American history. A quota on vessels allowed in Glacier Bay prompted exploration of other scenic spots. Pairing a cruise with a land tour remains a popular option.

Princess Cruises carries the most passengers in Alaska with eight ships offering 11 itineraries, including a rare roundtrip from

Los Angeles in 2020. Its 25 cruise and tour itineraries utilize the line’s five wilderness lodges and 10 rail cars transporting passengers into the interior to sites such as Denali National Park.

Holland America Line, a major carrier and Alaska’s largest private employer, also offers land tours. Celebrity Cruises will operate three ships in Alaska in 2020 and will offer pre- and postcruise tours to Denali and the Canadian Rockies.

Norwegian Cruise Line will sail four ships in Alaska in 2020, including its Norwegian Sun and Norwegian Joy with recent bow-tostern renovations. The line is partnering with Icy Strait Point, an Alaskan-owned cruise destination, to build a second pier slated for completion in 2020. It will provide greater access to brown bear viewing platforms and the world’s largest zip line.

Other large ships set to cruise Alaska in 2020 include those of Royal Caribbean International, Viking Ocean Cruises, Carnival Cruise Line, Disney Cruise Line, Oceania Cruises and Regent Seven Seas.

UnCruise Adventures stretches Alaska’s cruise season with the longest calendar of departures, April through September, in 2020. Six vessels, boutique yachts to small expedition ships, will cruise on seven itineraries, some including active pursuits such as kayaking and hiking. American Cruise Lines, operating Inside

NOVEMBER 2019

AMERICA’S WATERWAYS:

(Left to right) A Victory Cruise Lines ship passing the Detroit skyline on a Great Lakes cruise; the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland, Ohio, a top attraction on a Great Lakes cruise; Victory Cruise Lines’ Great Lakes cruise calling at Mackinac Island, Michigan; and a whale breaching near a Princess Cruises ship in Alaska PHOTOS: ©KATHERINE RODEGHIER, © PRINCESS CRUISES

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ON AN ADVENTURE: The

American Queen, grande dame of the American Queen Steamboat Co., cruises the Mississippi River, calling at Natchez, Mississippi (above), and Princess Cruises makes a stop for a lobster bake in Bar Harbor, Maine (right).

PHOTOS: © KATHERINE RODEGHIER, © PRINCESS CRUISES

Passage cruises on its 175-passenger American Constellation, will add an 11-day Alaskan Explorer round-trip Juneau cruise in 2020. Hapag-Lloyd Cruises will position its MS Bremen in Alaska next summer.

Alaskan Dream Cruises, an offshoot of a boat-building and tour company long operated by native Alaskans, plans on operating five vessels in 2020 holding 10 to 76 passengers. The latest addition, the Kruzof Explorer, was once a Bering Sea crab-fishing boat.

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North American river cruises focus on the Mississippi and its tributaries with access to antebellum plantations, Civil War sites and historic river cities, and on the Snake and Columbia rivers with wine tasting, pioneer history and iconic Pacific Northwest landscapes.

American Queen Steamboat Co. launches the American Countess in 2020 to join its American Duchess and American Queen paddle wheelers on the Mississippi. Its American Empress cruises the Pacific Northwest, while UnCruise Adventures’ 90-passenger SS Legacy offers adventure and wine/culinary cruises on the Columbia and Snake rivers in 2020.

American Cruise Lines’ two modern-style riverboats, the American Harmony and American Song, launched in 2018 and 2019 on the Mississippi, the Snake and the Columbia. American Jazz launches in 2020, and two more modern vessels are on the drawing boards. They’ll join the line’s four Victorian-style paddle wheelers.

Ships from cruise lines big and small head to New England and Eastern Canada for the fall colors. Depending on the length of the itinerary and size of the ship, ports in the United States may include Boston; Newport, Rhode Island; New York City; and Portland and Bar Harbor, Maine. In Canada ships might cruise the St. Lawrence River and Seaway and call at Montréal; Québec City; Halifax, Nova Scotia; Saint John, New Brunswick; and Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island.

Princess Cruises extends one of its five Northeast itineraries in 2020 to Greenland, one stop on a 16-day cruise from New York City. Its 13-day Canada and Colonial America itinerary sails between Québec City and Fort Lauderdale, Florida. Land tours added to several itineraries take passengers to Niagara Falls, Philadelphia, Colonial Williamsburg and Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello in Virginia, and Gettysburg Battlefield in Pennsylvania.

Other large-ship lines spending the fall in New England, Canada and the Eastern Seaboard include Carnival Cruise Line, Cunard Line, Disney Cruise Line, Holland America, Oceania Cruises, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Royal Caribbean International and Viking Ocean Cruises.

Among the small ships in New England and Canada, The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection’s inaugural season in 2020 features five voyages. Both Victory Cruise Lines and Pearl Seas Cruises bookend Great Lakes cruises with itineraries in the region. Hapag-Lloyd Cruises’ Hanseatic Inspiration offers a 16-day expedition cruise and a 20-day itinerary stopping in Greenland.

American Cruise Lines boasts five coastal cruise ships and itineraries in New England as well as the Southeastern United States.

On the West Coast, Celebrity Cruises’ Celebrity Eclipse will cruise between San Diego and Vancouver in 2020. Carnival Cruise Line, the No. 1 line on the coast, carrying 600,000 passengers annually, will continue cruising to Catalina Island, California, and Ensenada, Mexico, with many departures from its refurbished Long Beach Cruise Terminal.

mice | COLOMBO

Convene in Colombo Sri Lanka’s busy seaport welcomes international events of all sizes.

BY ELLEN CLARK

DIVINE INSPIRATION: Colombo temple mural and sculpture PHOTO: © ELLEN CLARK

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SOMETIMES CALLED THE PEARL OF THE INDIAN OCEAN, lovely Sri Lanka has much to recommend it.

Surrounded by water, this island nation lies in the middle of the Indian Ocean southwest of the Bay of Bengal and southeast of the Arabian Sea. Geographically separated from the Indian subcontinent by the Gulf of Mannar and the Palk Strait, it boasts a 92 percent literacy rate and a life expectancy 10 percent above the world’s average.

Not surprisingly considering its geography, Sri Lanka’s capital city of Colombo boasts a busy port. Though a small percentage of the Port of Colombo’s business comes from pleasure craft and cruise ships, it is essentially a container port. On May 25 Sri Lanka, India and Japan signed a deal to jointly build a deepwater container terminal in Colombo.

Though closely allied with India, Sri Lanka features a character all its own.

While the country occupies a much more compressed geographic area than its vast

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neighbor, it offers a range of diverse attractions, including eight UNESCO World Heritage sites and 14 national parks. Besides the country’s cultural and natural charms, plenty of prestigious global hotel chains provide the MICE industry with attractive and up-to-date venues for meetings, incentives, conventions and events. When you add easy access via many international airlines and green-certified hotels, it’s no wonder Sri Lanka gained a reputation as an attractive MICE destination.

Colombo, the country’s commercial capital and its largest city, serves as the hub for MICE events of all sizes and kinds. Numerous venues can accommodate conferences for up to 150 individuals. As for incentives, smaller groups can enjoy a schedule that incorporates several destinations and experiences within the island.

Some popular Colombo venues for smaller meetings include Galadari Hotel, well-equipped to handle MICE events with more than 24,000 square feet of flexible meeting space including individual

rooms for smaller groups. The Cinnamon Grand accommodates trade shows as well as more intimate gatherings thanks to flexible room layouts. And the historic and elegant Galle Face Hotel has hosted events covering a broad range of topics from security and defense to travel and tourism.

Besides the facilities for smaller meetings and incentives, Colombo boasts two modern conference and exhibition centers which cater to large events of up to 2,000 people and exhibitions of any scale. The Bandaranaike Memorial International Conference Hall offers high-quality specialized conference facilities and personalized customer service. A multifunctional complex, it comprises four buildings set on 37 acres and has been called South Asia’s top exhibition complex.

Sri Lanka Exhibition & Convention Centre, a purpose-built, fully multifunctional exhibition venue, provides 40,000 square feet of column-free exhibit space for a multitude of events such as exhibitions, conferences, seminars, meetings and concerts. Its strategic location in the heart of the city center places it within walking distance of major hotels, the Port of Colombo and financial and business institutions.

Sadly, the last few months have not been easy for Sri Lanka. Just as the country began to finally outlive its violent reputation due to a lengthy civil war, Easter Sunday brought a series of terrorist bombings that killed hundreds of people. But Sri Lankans, used to dealing with adversity, quickly made efforts to cushion the impact of the attacks, specifically where it affected tourism.

To that end, the government drastically reduced airline ground charges, aviation fuel prices and departure fees. A one-year moratorium is in place for repayment of loans for tourism-related businesses, while interest rates on new loans have been substantially reduced. All of these efforts show Sri Lanka’s willingness to make the country attractive to visitors, 11 percent of whom represent the MICE segment.

Further evidence of Sri Lanka’s commitment to promot-

lag, is e Lion F h t s a n .C. w to 162 B , also kno k a c k a n b a g L i in of Sr est, dat The flag rld’s old o w e h t f ed one o consider

GRAND MOMENTS:

Meeting room at the Cinnamon Grand (top), and Colombo oceanfront (bottom) PHOTOS: © THE CINNAMON GRAND, © ELLEN CLARK

UNIQUE VENUES

Centrally located in Mount Lavinia, the Siddhalepa ANARVA Mount Lavinia offers much to entice MICE organizers. The hotel features a state-of-the-art conference and meeting area, outfitted with the latest in modern equipment. The rooftop bar boasts spectacular panoramas of the city and the Indian Ocean and makes a lovely venue for cocktail functions. siddhaleparesort.com/anarva mountlavinia

ing the MICE community comes in the form of MICE CONNECT 2019 Sri Lanka edition. The meeting, set up to build and strengthen the relations between Indian buyers and the hospitality brands from Sri Lanka, was originally scheduled for May 9 and 10. Though it was postponed due to the attacks, the meeting took place July 2 and 3, free from any incidents due to the quick action of local authorities to strengthen security in Colombo. This sends a positive message to other MICE planners about Sri Lanka’s resilience and willingness to make the country safe for future events.

Just opened in the summer of this year, the Elyon Colombo Hotel is purpose-built to host MICE activities. Hotel executives say the property attempts to reflect a new age in hospitality in which business travel is inseparable from lifestyle. Facilities include three state-of-the-art meeting and event spaces, including the Sky Function Hall accommodating up to 120 people and ideal for corporate functions. elyoncolombohotel.com

NOVEMBER 2019

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lobal Traveler | 35

9–5 | CAPE TOWN

GT on the Road GT Members Section Captivating Cape Town

passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet.

Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle.

Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25).

The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million.

Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center.

Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background.

Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300.

While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

he new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world.

You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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tan ropoli t e of M The silica a B l dra f Cathe rine o e h t a he C ates t n i Saint m o dria d ic Alexan histor e h t e of . skylin tagena r a C of center

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CROATIA

destination one | İZMIR

Turkish Wonder

İzmir intrigues and inspires with its legendary history and dynamic culture.

BY RICHARD NEWTON

CITY SCENES: Sculpture on the İzmir waterfront (left). suburb on the eastern side of the Gulf of İzmir (middle), and apartment building in Karşiyaka preparing for Ataturk Day celebrations (right) PHOTOS: © RICHARD NEWTON

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WE’RE STAYING IN İZMIR, more or less. Our home for two months is an apartment in the district of Karşiyaka, where the inhabitants refer to themselves as “35.5” — a wink to the official İzmir postal code, 35. We regularly take the 10-minute ferry ride across the Gulf of İzmir to downtown and back; with each arrival we notice the change in atmosphere, the change in pace.

Our neighborhood is İzmir, and it’s not. The same could be said of the city as a whole. You’ll search in vain for İzmir on a pre-1922 map. Until that cataclysmic year, the city was known as Smyrna, with an indigenous population of Greeks and Levantines.

NOVEMBER 2019

COMING AND GOING All U.S. citizens require a passport valid for at least six months beyond the date of entry. An entry visa is required; visit the website of the Embassy of the Republic of Turkey for the latest information. In most cases an e-visa can be purchased online, usually valid for up to 90 days within a 180-day period. The current cost is $20.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE

Turkish. English is not widely spoken beyond the international hotels.

The Greco-Turkish War culminated with Smyrna in flames and the mass expulsion of the survivors. The present city emerged from the ruins.

Few of the current population can truly claim to have roots here. In most introductory conversations there’ll be mention of somewhere else. Our optician’s family came from Crete; a businessman we know has family ancestry in Ukraine and the Balkans. All were caught up in the upheaval of the 1920s, when Greeks and Turks across the region were expelled from their homes and sent back to “where they came from.”

The result in İzmir is a city that suffered a complete historical fracture. There’s the city as it was before 1922 … and after. Remarkably, despite an almost complete population transfusion, its uniquely independent spirit survived. Smyrna was known as the “City of Infidels,” and the nickname transferred to İzmir. In an increasingly Islamist country, İzmir remains liberal and secular.

For 8,500 years settlers here benefitted from the advantages of geography. The Gulf of İzmir, now enfolded by the city on three sides, provides sheltered anchorage for trading vessels.

And the city’s location on the coast of the Aegean Sea, with easy routes into the Turkish interior, puts it at the fulcrum of trade between Europe, Asia and Africa.

This is one of the first places in the world in which money supplanted the bartering of goods

LODGING

the downtown waterfront.

OGLAKCIOGLU PARK BOUTIQUE HOTEL This friendly, comfortable hotel close to Basmane Train Station sits within walking distance of the main attractions of downtown İzmir.

1367 Sok No. 9, Çankaya $$ SWISSÔTEL BÜYÜK EFES The city’s premier hotel in the premier location overlooks Republic Square on

Gaziosmanpasa Bulvari No. 1, Alsancak $$$ VE HOTEL KARŞIYAKA The brand-new hotel in the leafy, upscale neighborhood of Bostanlı sits just a 15-minute ferry ride from downtown.

Cengiz Topel Caddesi No. 27, Bostanlı $$

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as the means of transaction. You could make a good case for the city’s thriving bazaar being the birthplace of capitalism. The bazaar still thrums with commercial energy. During the day the mazy web of alleys is dense with local shoppers buying clothes, fabrics, furnishings, metalware, cellphones, computers, fish, meat, fruit and vegetables. Amid it all you’ll find stalls selling freshly squeezed juice (my daily favorite is Atom, less than 20 cents for a glass of a refreshing, tropical mixture) and restaurants offering oven-baked pide (Turkish pizza) and kebabs.

While rooted firmly in the past, İzmir’s economy also made bold strides into the future. İzmir Port remains one of the region’s busiest, while close to the airport lies the Aegean Free Zone, an international venture promoting sectors such as aerospace and defense, automotive production, food processing and electronics. The city’s relatively modest skyline recently transformed close to the port with a cluster of skyscrapers, including the 48-floor Mistral Office Tower and the twin Folkart Towers.

At night, huge screens incorporated into the façades of the twin towers show digital images of fluttering Turkish flags. We can see them from the ferry as we cross back to Karşiyaka. The pride of our fellow passengers is evident — proud of their neighborhood, proud of being Turkish and, above all, proud of İzmir.

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İZMIR ICONS:

Kizlaragasi Han Bazaar (above), and Folkart Towers (left) PHOTOS: © ÖZGÜR ŞENERGIN - DREAMSTIME.COM, © CASFOTOARDA - DREAMSTIME.COM

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT +3 Phone code: Country code: 90 City code: 232 Currency: Turkish lira Key industries: Manufacturing, textiles, petrochemicals, automobile construction, retail

CHECKING IN WITH JEREMY SEAL

HISTORY LESSON:

What are the main cultural dos and don’ts for American visitors to Turkey?

Turkey remains a remarkably tolerant place, even now, and has been used to a (generally respectful) American presence since the country joined NATO in the 1950s. The native friendliness should be taken at face value — invitations to local homes are invariably sincere, when gifts like boxes of baklava are welcome. There are a few rules, of course, like behaving appropriately in the mosques — taking off shoes, women donning headscarves upon entering and probably avoiding prayer times, especially on holy Fridays. Otherwise, this is a country in which one should feel confident about immersing oneself, whether it be in visiting the Turkish baths, traveling on the (excellent and generally extensive) public transport networks or having a go at the notoriously difficult language. Turks are invariably helpful so don’t be afraid to ask. Be aware the interior is much more conservative than the big cities; drinking alcohol in public is frowned upon in many places, and hard to get at all in cities like Konya.

How does İzmir differ from other Turkish cities? İzmir was always the city of the infidels: home to Greeks, Armenians and other Christian minorities all through the Ottoman Empire. The legacy of those people, all now deported, dispersed or otherwise disappeared, is a distinctive atmosphere that can seem strikingly un-Turkish. The city has lately become a magnet for refugees from Africa and the Middle East who have made their home in the neighborhoods around the Basmane Train Station. While much restoration work has been done, with a major land reclamation scheme all along the front, it still feels ruinous, and sometimes spectacularly so, especially in the back streets between Basmane and the archaeological museum.

DINING

The ancient Roman Library of Celsus at Ephesus, near İzmir

Author and tour leader

PHOTO: © RICHARD NEWTON

EQUINOX The Swissôtel’s flagship restaurant provides the perfect venue for business dinners or special occasions, offering an international menu and a great view of the Gulf of İzmir from the ninth floor.

Swissôtel Büyük Efes, Gaziosmanpasa Bulvari No. 1, Alsancak $$$ KÖFTECI MEHMET IRMAK Our regular restaurant, located beside Kemeralti Mosque in the bazaar, is great for grilled chicken and for piyaz, a local bean salad.

854 Sok. No. 6, Kemeralti $$ KUMRUCU ŞEVKI Try kumru, İzmir’s famous sandwich, here: a sesame seed bun loaded with tomato, fried cheese and slivers of sausage.

Cengiz Topel Caddesi No. 4, Bostanlı $$ What are your favorite things to do in the city?

The archaeological museum is a wonder, especially for its collection of amazing ceramics and the gallery of Greco-Roman statuary. I like taking the tram that runs along the waterfront and up to the stations at the north side of town, an area rich in moldering old warehouses.

The city has one of the most exotic of all bazaars, Kemeralti, a warren of lanes full of intoxicating smells and stalls that for sheer authentic impact leaves İstanbul’s Grand Bazaar behind.

What side trips do you recommend? İzmir is brilliantly located for trips south to the great ancient archaeological sites. My favored route is taking the regular and superbly cheap train service from Basmane to Selçuk for Ephesus, even continuing on up the Meander Valley for sites like Magnesia, Nysa, Laodikeia and Hierapolis, the last home to the amazing travertine formations at Pamukkale. For beach-going, Bodrum’s a four-hour journey away by efficient and regular bus.

INFO TO GO

International and domestic flights arrive at İzmir Adnan Menderes Airport (ADB), 11 miles southwest of downtown. During summer tourist season the airport receives charter flights from many European cities, but in the off-peak months (October–May) most international passengers arrive via İstanbul (IST). Metro and commuter train services link the İzmir airport to downtown; buy a pre-paid İzmir Card. The bus company Havaş runs a regular airport shuttle for approximately $2 each way.

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DIVERSIONS Kadifekale Castle, atop a high hill behind downtown, makes a logical starting place for your visit. Here you can get some sense of the city’s complex history (Alexander the Great built the original castle, with subsequent additions by the Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans), as well as breathtaking views of the city and the Gulf of İzmir.

The castle ruins feel neglected, but admission is free.

Enjoy another free view from the top of the Asansör, a public elevator built in 1907 to save the residents of a hillside neighborhood a steep walk up 155 steps. The viewing platform at the top of the elevator’s tall, brick tower offers a panorama of the waterfront.

Two museums exhibit some of the treasures excavated from sites in and around İzmir. The Archaeological Museum of İzmir and the İzmir Museum of Art and History both display impressive collections of Greek and Roman statues, pottery, mosaics and gold jewelry. The Ataturk Museum is devoted to the life of the founder of modern Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. Venerated in İzmir (where his mother was born), his image appears everywhere. My favorite museum is the Ahmet Pristina City Archive, housed in the old Art Deco fire station.

The exhibitions change every few months and explore specific aspects of İzmir’s history, such as transport and sports.

Public transport (ferries, metro, trams and buses) makes it easy to get around the city. Buy an İzmir Card (available from ferry terminals and metro stations), and then top it up whenever you need to from the machines (there are instructions in English). Three ferry terminals on the downtown waterfront offer regular departures across to two terminals on the other side of the Gulf of

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İzmir, Karşiyaka and Bostanlı. There aren’t many tourist attractions on the other side, but there’s a beautiful walk along the miles-long waterfront park, and the neighborhoods contain plenty of shops and restaurants.

The essential excursion from İzmir is to the ancient Greek city of Ephesus, which you can reach by taking the train to Selçuk from Basmane Railway Station (the journey takes 80 minutes). From Selçuk shuttle buses go to Ephesus, or you can walk (it takes about 40 minutes).

The ruins of Ephesus are among the most impressive in the Mediterranean: a sprawling city, complete with paved roads, the remains of houses, an ancient public toilet, an amphitheater and — most impressive of all — the Library of Celsus, an ornate façade built by the Romans. Here, as so often in Turkey, history vividly comes to life.

CONTRASTING VIEWS:

Asansör elevator (top), and the Library of Celsus in Ephesus (bottom) PHOTOS: © TIGGER76 DREAMSTIME.COM, © RICHARD NEWTON

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stateside | MIAMI

Tropical Hot Spot Miami sizzles as a port city for business and pleasure. BY MARK CHESNUT BEACH SCENE: Miami South Beach sunrise with lifeguard tower

PHOTO: © PROCHASSON FREDERIC - DREAMSTIME .COM

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CONSIDERING THAT JUST A LITTLE more than a century ago — 1910, to be exact — Miami’s population was only about 5,400 people, it’s easy to see why this South Florida hot spot has long been considered a boomtown. And the evolution continues to impress as the city gears up to welcome an array of new services, amenities and experiences.

“It wasn’t that long ago we were a cultural wasteland, but now our tagline is ‘more than a beach,’” said William Talbert, president and CEO, Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau, the region’s destination marketing organization. “Lots of people have beaches. But we’re both cosmopolitan and tropical.”

Indeed, Greater Miami and the Beaches — as the GMCVB refers to the metropolitan area — grew rapidly from what was a tiny backwater settlement to an increasingly sophisticated, multifaceted destination that’s become

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one of the nation’s top international gateways.

Visitor numbers jumped 3.5 percent between 2017 and 2018, reaching a record-breaking 16.5 million. Travelers come for many reasons, not only for business or vacation but also to attend events like Art Basel, the international art festival, and the South Beach Wine and Food Festival, as well as a range of live entertainment at venues like the Adrian Arscht Center for the Performing Arts. New art attractions include the George Daniell Museum, opened this year and hosting exhibits of the work of famed photographer George Daniell.

As proof of the area’s surging popularity on the world stage, Talbert points to the number of foreign companies that have chosen Miami and the beaches as their first point of entry to the United States — including Faena, the Argentinean luxury hotel brand that debuted its first U.S. property in Miami Beach, and Hong Kong-based Swire Hotels, which in 2016 made its first foray in the United States with the 352-room EAST, Miami hotel.

Miami’s transportation scene is witnessing some impressive new developments as well. Brightline, the regional rail service rebranded as Virgin Trains USA, links Miami Central Station with Fort Lauderdale and West Palm Beach, with plans to extend service to Orlando by 2021. In addition, sister company Virgin Voyages is working on a new cruise terminal in Miami to serve as the home port for the Scarlet Lady, a new cruise ship with 1,430 cabins that will offer Caribbean cruises from its Miami base. The 100,000-squarefoot terminal will be complete by late 2021.

SIMPLY SOPHISTICATED: Kimpton EPIC Miami

PHOTO : © KIMPTON EPIC MIAMI

SCENIC DRIVES

Virgin’s plans provide just one example of growth at PortMiami, which welcomed a record number of 5,592,000 cruise passengers October 2017–September 2018 — figures the tourism office said are greater than any port in the world.

In addition, MSC Cruises recently announced a new project at PortMiami to feature two cruise terminals and two berths able to process up to 28,000 passengers daily, with the capability of handling 1 million travelers per year. With construction slated to begin next year, it plans to open the new facilities in late 2022.

“PortMiami has really taken off,” said Talbert. “It’s undergoing $1 billion of private development. The first $250 million private development is already open — Royal Caribbean’s new terminal. It’s currently serving the largest cruise ships in existence. Next to it, Norwegian Cruise Line is building a terminal; it’s nearly three-quarters done.”

Miami International Airport is also in growth mode.

This year, the facility announced a new capital improvement program that will pump as much as $5 billion into modernization projects in the coming years, including redevelopment of concourses E and F, an expanded South Terminal, renovated Concourse D gates and two new hotels. Last year the Miami airport for the first time welcomed more than 45 million travelers, an increase of nearly 1 million from the previous year.

Shoppers, meanwhile, will soon be able to satisfy their urge on a grand scale in Miami. American Dream Miami, slated to open in 2023, will be billed as the nation’s largest

shopping mall. The $4 billion, 5-million-square-foot project will include an array of unique diversions including an indoor ski slope and a lake for submarine rides.

Whether traveling for business or pleasure, visitors to Miami will find a variety of new and upgraded accommodation options. Among the newest hotels, the city boasts the 119-room Lennox Hotel Miami Beach and 184-room Hilton Miami Dadeland. Existing hotels also upped the ante. The Ritz-Carlton Coconut Grove this year unveiled redecorated rooms, lobby and pool area as well as a new indoor/outdoor restaurant called Isabelle’s Grill Room & Garden. The JW Marriott Miami Turnberry Resort & Spa, meanwhile, opened a new bar called Soff’s, as well as a massive new waterpark featuring a 60-foot tower with seven water slides.

Additional hotels showing off recent renovations include the Biltmore Hotel, the Hyatt Regency Coral Gables, the Kimpton EPIC, Solé Miami and the W South Beach, which unveiled a new, 2,056-square-foot penthouse suite as well as a new WET pool deck with cabanas and an outdoor bar.

In addition, Gloria and Emilio Estefan’s Cardozo South Beach hotel reopened this year following a $15 million renovation, and The Ritz-Carlton, South Beach will reopen its doors in late 2019 after a multiyear renovation.

Talbert predicts that as Miami continues to finesse its offerings for business and upscale leisure travelers, the destination’s appeal will only grow more. “We’ve got spas, we’ve got luxury hotels, we’ve got luxury cruises,” he said. “It’s all come together nicely. And we’re just getting started.”

Drive west and you’ll soon arrive at Florida’s fabulous Everglades, spanning 1.5 million acres and featuring wetland preserves, mangroves and wildlife. In Coopertown you can join a scenic airboat ride to take in all of the region’s natural beauty and also sample local cuisine like catfish, frog legs and gator tail. Travelers looking for a more in-depth experience can visit the Everglades Alligator Farm, housing some 2,000 resident alligators, or perhaps pitch a tent for an overnight stay at one of the Everglades campgrounds, with plenty of time to explore the region by kayak or canoe.

If you’re looking for culture, cuisine and shopping, consider a trip north.

Just a few minutes away lies Fort Lauderdale, known as the “Venice of America” thanks to its more than 300 miles of canals; Las Olas Boulevard offers a lovely place to stroll, shop and stop for a drink. Farther north, Palm Beach is home to noteworthy sites like the Henry Morrison Flagler Museum, set in a 75-room Gilded Age mansion once home to American industrialist Henry Flagler.

Shopaholics, meanwhile, are likely to enjoy the Palm Beach Outlets, with designer brands the big draw.

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9–5 | CARTAGENA

Allure of Cartagena

VISUAL VIBES: Colorful street (above), and Clock Tower Gate and Pegasus statue (right)

Discover the Caribbean charms of Colombia’s coastal city.

PHOTOS:

BY STEPHEN JERMANOK

© SERGE NOVITSKY DREAMSTIME .COM © DIEGO GRANDI - DREAMSTIME.COM

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TRAVEL TO COLOMBIA surged since the signing of the historic Peace Agreement in November 2016, ending a half-century-long conflict. A record 4.4 million visitors came to the country in 2018, up a staggering 300 percent from a decade earlier, when reaching 1 million travelers was a lofty goal. This surge in demand led to better international flight options, which should only continue to increase visitor numbers from abroad as long as the country remains stable.

While Bogotá remains the business and financial core of Colombia, more and more meetings now take place in far more picturesque Cartagena, a Spanish colonial city that seems to be built with the traveler in mind. Behind the fortress walls the city boasts narrow streets; large plazas; 17th-century churches; and row after row of charming restaurants, boutique shops and salsa dance clubs. Walking the pedestrian-only streets of the Old Walled City, a UNESCO World Heritage site, compares to strolling the French Quarter of New Orleans.

Bougainvillea flows from the terraces of the colorful homes, and under a historic Clock Tower

NOVEMBER 2019

local merchants sell candy produced from tropical fruits such as guava, mango, papaya and coconut.

As an added bonus, Cartagena sits on the Caribbean coast and serves as a welcome mat to a long stretch of beach and warm waters for swimming. Within an hour by boat from the city lie the Rosario Islands, home to the country’s only underwater national park. Snorkel or scuba dive and be treated to wonderful coral formations and large schools of neon-colored fish. You also have the option of sea kayaking in the mangroves, even spending a night on an island at the secluded Hotel San Pedro de Majagua.

But first you have to get that deal done.

Many business meetings take place at Cartagena’s finest hotels.

Dress is Caribbean casual; usually men wear a nice short-sleeved collared shirt, slacks and shoes. For women, a colorful sundress is not uncommon.

It’s hard to top the location and enviable space of Cartagena’s first luxury resort, the Sofitel Legend Santa Clara Cartagena, housed in a former convent that dates back to 1621. Have lunch in the lush courtyard under the shade of palms or head to El Coro Lounge Bar for your first mojito of the day. The most popular non-alcoholic drink at lunch is the coconut lemonade, especially thirst-quenching during the humid summer months.

If you’re looking for something a little more intimate, head down the block to El Santísimo. Owner and chef Federico Vega honed his skills at Le Cordon Bleu in France, and the result is French/Colombian fusion fare that tantalizes the tastebuds.

Start with crunchy triangles of Camembert cheese, breaded with toasted sesame seeds over a sauce of sautéed uchuvas (Colombian groundcherries). Then move on to The Lord’s Pardon, large prawns with a mango, ginger and cilantro sauce. For dessert, sample The Envy, a crunchy tulip filled with mango mousse.

For meetings later in the day, don’t overlook the more contemporary Bocagrande section of the city right along the beach. Taxis and Ubers are easy to find in Cartagena, and a five-minute drive gets you from the Old Town to the InterContinental Cartagena de Indias, where you can have your drink poolside overlooking the expanse of beach and ocean. It’s particularly enticing at sunset, when the orange/reddish orb practically melts into the sea. Closer to town, the boutique property Movich Cartagena offers glorious views of the city from its rooftop bar and pool.

Don’t be surprised if your contact in Cartagena takes you to Club de Pesca for dinner, a local favorite. Dine alfresco near the illuminated walls of San Sebastian Fort overlooking the city’s bayside. As the name suggests, the large restaurant is known for its local seafood, like fried red snapper or seafood stew doused in fresh coconut milk. Prefer entertainment with your meal? Then take a horse and buggy ride in the old walled city to El Burlador de Sevilla, known for its flamenco dance show and Spanish tapas.

Cartagena knows how to throw a party, so don’t expect your day to end with dinner. The salsa dancing at Café Havana starts around 10 p.m. and doesn’t stop until the wee hours of the morning. Couples dance around the bar and small dance floor to talented singers backed by a lively horn section. If you prefer to end the night in relative quietude at one of the majestic outdoor plazas, grab a nightcap at El Barón, a cocktail bar set under the towering San Pedro Claver church.

o oter , do B ady) n L a n t r a e F F , da’ ( tors at Gor culp s a t ‘L City s e d c ne e i e l l i f p Wa are. ster bia’s Old Squ olom ronze ma e o h g C t n i f in o Dom his b ced One city anto y pla l l e S h a t c tegi gave stra

The options for upscale dining and lodging in Cartagena will only improve in 2020 and 2021 as both Four Seasons and the Viceroy announced the debut of new properties. As long as Colombia holds to the tenets of its Peace Agreement, you can expect top-shelf hoteliers and the numbers of travelers visiting Cartagena to swell.

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OLD TOWN: Sculpture in front of Church of San Pedro Claver PHOTO: © DVRCAN - DREAMSTIME.COM

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after 5 | NASSAU

Nassau Nights The Bahamas capital glitters with treasures after dark. BY BRANDON SCHULTZ

SHAKE IT UP:

Martini Bar and Lounge at The Ocean Club PHOTO: © FOUR SEASONS HOTELS AND RESORTS

ane rric u H le ntly Whi rece n a i h of Dor muc d e g w rava mas, Ne a Bah land the e Is c n e ise vid arad Pro P and ged mer e d n ly Isla tive rela nd da athe rs. c s n u isito me v o c l we

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THE BAHAMAS IS HOME TO ABOUT 700 islands ringed by shimmering shores where fantasy blue and green waters lap powdery white and pink sands, but its 6.6 million annual visitors spend most of their time on just a handful of islands, and almost all visit the capital city of Nassau. On New Providence Island, where 70 percent of the nation lives, Nassau proves one of the most popular ports on Caribbean cruises. Daytrippers hunt for bargains at the famed Straw Market or swim with sharks and rays in the idyllic waters before reboarding their behemoth ships and sailing off. Those remaining on the island, though, still find plenty to see after dark.

The towering resorts of Nassau and neighboring Paradise Island present a trove of dining and nightlife venues, but don’t overlook their record-breaking, trend-shattering casinos either.

Aside from bucking the tradition of having no windows (who could block out Bahamian views?), the sheer volume of these gaming venues impresses. Baha Mar’s central casino — the largest in the entire Caribbean — features more than 1,000 slot machines and scores of gaming tables, setting a vibrant scene of evening adrenaline.

For a swankier night of international intrigue, leave the casino behind and saunter in to Martini Bar and Lounge at NOVEMBER 2019

The Ocean Club. This Four Seasons venue offers a more exclusive atmosphere for sipping classic cocktails in style, and fans of 007 will recognize it from Casino Royale. Sample your own shaken-not-stirred here by trying the signature Vesper Martini (three parts gin, one part vodka, half part Kina Lillet).

Like much of the region, the level of LGBTQ+ acceptance is low here, so you won’t find venues geared toward the community.

If business or romance is on the agenda, impress your partner with a refined dinner at Graycliff Restaurant in the former colonial mansion of Princess Lee Radziwill, younger sister of Jackie Onassis. Graycliff’s intimate dining rooms are ideally suited for quiet conversation amid the ambience of a bygone era of sophistication and easy elegance highlighted by impeccable, discreet service. While the Graycliff empire also includes a cigar factory, chocolate factory, gelateria and winery located in what was once the oldest church in the Bahamas, the restaurant’s wine cellar shines as the jewel in its crown. Housing more than a quarter million bottles (including the world’s oldest known potable bottle, a 1727 Rudesheimer Apostelwein), it boasts the world’s third-largest collection. Be sure to order from it.

neighborhoods | ROATÁN

All Ashore Disembark for a day of play on the island of Roatán, Honduras. BY RINA NEHDAR

KALEIDOSCOPIC: Coxen Hole, Roatán PHOTOS: © IMAGECOM - DREAMSTIME.COM

BELIZE

Roatán

GUATEMALA

HONDURAS EL SALVADOR

NICARAGUA

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WHEN YOU GO DOWN to breakfast and the wall of windows facing the ocean flashes moss and turquoise like Vegas neon, you know you’re getting off the ship. That’s why the island of Roatán, off the coast of Honduras, proves one of the most popular stops for cruise ship passengers.

This 31-mile-long, five-mile-wide line of sand is as adventurous as it is colorful. When we sailed with Norwegian Cruise Line, we wanted to explore Roatán but avoid crowds, so we opted out of an organized excursion. Instead, our multigenerational family of five walked along the Coxen Hole wooden pier, past shops, musicians with steel drums and festive welcome drinks to find someone who could take us around the island.

We found that in Joelle, a driver who materialized from a line of taxis and, in perfect English, used his outgoing personality and wide-toothed grin to charm us into believing he had been waiting just for us.

Most passengers go to bustling West Bay, where plenty of activities and resorts await, but Joelle drove us to the quieter Half Moon Bay at West End. During the ride, we spoke about his part of the world. “Ev-

eryone speaks English,” he said. “Yes,” I replied, “but what’s the native language?” “English!” he insisted. I later found that was true in Roatán and the two other islands off Honduras, collectively known as the Bay Islands. “Islanders,” as they prefer to be called, are mostly descendants of the British Isles; however, there are also those of African-Caribbean heritage and immigrants from mainland Honduras, so Spanish is a close second.

The beach at Half Moon Bay offers visitors plenty of souvenir, restaurant and bar options just steps from the water. The public beach sits in the center of the half moon bend. Just 30 feet from dry sand, a Technicolor underwater universe beckons. Because we brought our own snorkel gear, we saw a spectrum of undulating anemones, fans of coral and psychedelic fish swimming through the rainbow reef.

On our way back to the ship, we stopped to eat at Jungle Top Zipline and enjoyed the rare opportunity to play with rescued capuchin monkeys. As the little bundles of fur jumped from head to shoulder and back to head, the day ended as magically as it had begun.

friends & family | DUBAI

Adventure in the Desert Dubai rises to the occasion for family fun.

WATERWAY:

An abra taking people to Souk Madinat Jumeirah PHOTO: © OLEG ZHUKOV DREAMSTIME.COM

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BY GREGORY D. MCCLUNEY

RISING OUT OF THE DESERT, framed by the world’s tallest building and another built like a giant sail over the sea, Dubai dumbfounds the first-time visitor. The eyes see a phoenix, a contemporary city of the future, while visitors tour canals in abras, traditional wooden boats.

Not far away, men dressed in white attend a camel race. It seems at first like Disney’s latest and greatest project. How did this city get here, and who built it?

There’s an easy answer: The ruling family of a tiny Middle Eastern country, the United Arab Emirates, wanted to build a great city by the Persian Gulf, making a bold statement of their success and contributions to the Arab world and beyond. In doing so, they wisely chose to reflect on their past as well. Arab culture and history remain in place in working neighborhoods, souks, canals, outdoor shopping arcades, restaurants, food stalls and in museums unlike any you’ll find anywhere else in the world, especially if you love gold and spices.

The most efficient means of getting an overview of the city is to put the whole family

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(including friends, relatives and business associates) on the hop-on/hop-off Big Bus Dubai with commentary in 10 languages, or board the amphibious Wonder Bus, which takes passengers right into the water. These tours, along with a metro card and some cash for taxis (buses are comfortable but slow), will enhance your planning. After your tour relax, have a cold drink (only certain hotel restaurants and bars are approved to sell alcohol) and a snack along the canals and get out your city map to plan your days ahead.

Business travelers come to do business and enjoy the pleasures of meeting in some of the newest upscale facilities in the world.

The term “no expense was too great” hardly makes the point. After 5 p.m. there’s more to see and do than in almost any other center

of commerce on the planet. But the streets also teem with families and children from around the world, and they’re here to play. LGBTQ+ visitors should know public displays of affection are taboo, so discretion is strongly advised.

Several souks, mosques, kids’ attractions, beaches and water parks, and sights such as the Burj Khalifa deserve a visit and will appeal to almost everyone. Others, such as the golf club, Old Town and history museums may cater to more particular tastes.

When the kids hit the beach, adults can enjoy a guided tour of the Jumeirah Mosque, the only one open to all faiths (except on holy Fridays). Seating 1,200, it treats visitors to a local snack after the tour (remember to dress conservatively). Then head to Etihad Museum to learn the history of the United Arab Emirates. Later, join the kids at the JBR Beach and then float the clean canals of the Madinat Jumeirah Resort and stay for dinner, choosing from a collection of 50 restaurants. Treat the kids to a night ride on the Ain Dubai Ferris wheel at JBR Beach.

Time to rest for a morning visit to the world’s largest mall, Dubai Mall, with some 1,200 stores, restaurants, an ice rink and the Dubai Aquarium. It’s the ultimate shop-till-you-drop experience for all. Sunset makes the perfect time to ascend the Burj Khalifa to the observation room on the 148th floor. For a laid-back dinner, The Irish Village wel-

LODGING

JUMEIRAH AL QASR HOTEL Indulge in Dubai-style luxury with outstanding amenities including palatial guestrooms, a private beach and dining alongside the canal, plus complimentary access to Sinbad’s Kids Club.

Madinat Jumeirah, King Salman bin Abdulaziz Al Saud Street $$$$$ MEDIA ONE HOTEL This unpretentious hot spot with nine restaurants and bars attracts a young and hip crowd and party atmosphere to its contemporary style.

1 Al Falak St. $$$

PARK HYATT DUBAI Refined luxury lives here with a staff to match. Enjoy the lush gardens and complete amenities, including golf access.

Dubai Creek Club Street $$$$

o me t o h s ai i llest halifa, b a t u s D K ld’ urj wor the ng, the B s. di orie buil t s 60 at 1 SKY’S THE LIMIT: Burj Khalifa tower PHOTO: © MIKE FUCHSLOCHER - DREAMSTIME.COM

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SACRED SITE: Jumeirah Mosque interior (top) and exterior (bottom) PHOTOS: © NICOLA MESSANA DREAMSTIME.COM, © ADRIAN IOAN BUHAI DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING

AL SARAB ROOFTOP LOUNGE Enjoy romantic dining in the desert under the stars. A full European menu plus Middle Eastern specials, personal service and live music combine for a spectacular night out for business or pleasure.

Bab al Shams Desert Resort & Spa, Qudra Road $$$$ ASEELAH Aseelah offers the best spot to sample traditional and contemporary dishes and compare and contrast the flavors of Emirati food and décor.

Radisson Blu Hotel, 476 Baniyas Road, Dubai Deira Creek $$$ FEAST Find the perfect answer for a family or group, where attentive service and lovely décor accompany a buffet of foods from around the world.

Consider the Thursday seafood extravaganza at dinner.

Sheraton Grand Hotel, 3 Sheikh Zayed Road $$$$

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comes kids who can enjoy their own private playground and garden.

It’s a good place to meet some Europeans and trade stories over a shepherd’s pie and Guinness.

No one in the group should miss the chance to snow ski in the desert — or at least watch the scene at Ski Dubai at the Mall of the Emirates. The facility provides all clothing and equipment and serves hot refreshments. Drop the kids at the mega water park, Wild Wadi, so the adults can visit the souks in Old Town, see the gold and spice vendors and get a taste of Old Dubai, where the city actually was born. On the way home, stop for a look at the Dubai Fountain, the largest choreographed fountain in the world.

Before leaving the U.A.E., friends and family have to gather for the most memorable desert experience — a safari on the dunes. While the ski slopes, malls and amusement parks offer great fun, a real taste of Bedouin culture will never be forgotten. You can book any of a selection of safaris, from a brief Jeep ride to an all-day or overnight stay. But most include some dune bashing, quad biking, camel riding, shisha (hookah bar) and an Emirati dinner with belly dancers under the tents.

It’s an adventure no one forgets. After all, Dubai defies description.

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INFO TO GO

Most of the world’s largest airlines serve Dubai International from major hubs. The airport is also home to several Middle Eastern carriers such as Emirates and Etihad Airways, offering direct service to the United States, Europe and Asia. U.S. citizens (and many others) can purchase a visa good for 30 days upon arrival at the airport.

Upon arrival, take the red line metro train to the city center and then a cab to your hotel. Purchase a Nol card at the airport for use on the metro and bus system. Taxis wait outside 24/7, and bus service runs about once an hour. All public transport is clean and comfortable with good air-conditioning.

Another alternative is to cruise to Dubai, especially as the number of ships visiting the United Arab Emirates expands. Some even give passengers a day in Abu Dubai, which many visitors rarely get a chance to see. Schedules often change in the Middle East, but cruise lines planning to offer stops in Dubai in 2020 include MSC Cruises, Royal Caribbean, Silversea, Azamara, Costa and Norwegian Cruise Line. Always check with a cruise agency for the latest schedules.

bucket list | CHRISTMAS MARKETS

Festive Season Sip mulled wine and tick off your gift list on a leisurely Christmas market cruise. BY DEBRA BOKUR

HOLIDAY SPIRIT: (Left to right) Christmas gifts at Cologne Christmas Market, ice rink, mead, Heidelberg Market, lollipops for sale at Cologne Christmas Market, and Basel shops and stands decorated for Christmas PHOTOS: © VIKING CRUISES

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HERE’S AN IRRESISTIBLE HOLIDAY recipe: charming medieval villages dusted in snow, cobbled streets decorated with festive holiday trappings, and plenty of wintertime cheer. If that sounds as heavenly to you as it does to us, a seasonal European Christmas market cruise delivers all of the necessary ingredients.

Generally available early November through December, Christmas market cruises offer a holiday experience that’s a dream come true for countless travelers. Stocked with selections of handmade ornaments, these markets — called Christkindlmarkts — are typically organized as rows of embellished booths and stalls displaying a variety of lovely gifts and trinkets that vary by region and country. You can count on a few standards, though, such as tree ornaments, toys, nutcrackers, porcelain Christmas villages, jewelry, intricately cut paper stars, slippers, handknit scarves and mittens, carved angels and figurines — not to mention plenty of jams, sweets and other local foods.

Whether you prefer the intimacy of a river cruise or a larger ship, you’ll find multiple sailings from luxury cruise lines including Cunard, Viking River Cruises and Crystal River Cruises. Each ensures your holiday expedition is wrapped up in festive onboard settings such

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as the six individually handcrafted, life-sized gingerbread houses on Crystal River Cruises’ river ships and holiday flair from Cunard in the form of carolers in the Grand Lobby, visits from Santa, a large-scale gingerbread village and a Christmas tree sparkling with tinsel and ornaments.

Guests sailing with Viking River Cruises are treated to onboard tree-trimming sessions, musical performances, cooking demonstrations and other themed activities. Viking program director Victor Cartin says a holiday cruise also offers a peaceful escape to end-of-the-year stress, with the chance to enjoy the less-crowded streets of Europe that arrive with cold weather and sparkling snowscapes.

“A river cruise is the best way to visit many different Christmas markets in the most comfortable way,” Cartin elaborated. “From an ice rink in Cologne, Germany, to a 98-foot tall Christmas tree in Strasbourg — one of the oldest markets in the heart of Europe — each market offers a special experience that draws on centuries of traditions. Along with iconic landmarks, guests can enjoy shopping amid the traditional open-air markets, where I always recommend they try the warm mulled wine, taste local

sweets such as gingerbread or chocolates, and shop for handcrafted gifts made by local artisans.”

A great seasonal sailing choice with Viking River Cruises is the eight-day Rhine Getaway itinerary from Basel to Amsterdam aboard a Viking Longship. Ports include access to a variety of markets in different towns and countries including Kinderdijk, the Netherlands; Strasbourg, France; Basel, Switzerland; and Heidelberg, Breisach and Cologne, Germany.

Prefer a larger ship? Neil Kelly, entertainment director, Queen Victoria, said for him, booking a voyage with Cunard that takes place in a unique Christmas market is like receiving an early Christmas present.

In December Cunard’s Queen Victoria sails round-trip to Bruges, Belgium, from Southampton, England. In Bruges, the town’s beautiful central Market Square transforms into a stunning winter wonderland, with hot cocoa and fresh, warm waffles available for snacking while you peruse the enchanting wares in a multitude

of market stalls.

In the world of river ships, the 10-night Vienna round-trip Danube Christmas Markets cruise offered

by Crystal River Cruises follows the romantic Danube River with stops in dreamy ports in Austria, Slovakia and Germany. Walter LittleJohn, vice president and managing director, Crystal River Cruises, explains every Crystal River Christmas Markets voyage features visits to markets in several destinations — Vienna, Linz, Salzburg, Bratislava, Rüdesheim, Mannheim, Strasbourg and others — giving guests numerous options to consider when planning their activities.

“If there are particular markets that top their lists,” said LittleJohn, “[guests] can spend time exploring the décor and music and treats in those places and plan for different experiences in other ports.”

Good advice, yes. But our best tip is to bring an empty suitcase — you’ll want to be certain all your new treasures arrive home in one piece.

INFO TO GO

While details vary, Crystal River Cruises, Viking River Cruises and Cunard all offer cruise guests direct transportation arrangements from their international arrival airport.

For cruises departing from Basel, EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg lies just outside the city, while Zürich Airport is a 1.5-hour drive or approximate one-hour train journey to Basel. Amsterdam Schiphol Airport is about a half-hour drive from the city’s cruise terminal. Passengers embarking from the cruise port in Southampton, England, have multiple airport choices in London including Heathrow (LHR), Gatwick (LGW) and Stansted (STN), all just under two hours away. Vienna International Airport is a short, approximately 20-minute drive to the Vienna Cruise Port.

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kicking back | CROATIA

European Enchantment Meander through Croatia’s rich cultural history, city by city. BY ELYSE GLICKMAN CROATIAN CHARM: (Left to right) View of Dubrovnik Old Town from the Lovrijenac Fortress, Trogir Old Town with St. Lawrence Cathedral and bridge to Čiovo Island, Diocletian’s Palace in Split, and tourists in ancient Zadar

PHOTOS: © EMICRISTEA DREAMSTIME.COM, © DREAMER4787 DREAMSTIME.COM, © ZHYKHARIEVAVLADA DREAMSTIME.COM, © ROREM - DREAMSTIME.COM

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MULTICOUNTRY RIVER CRUISES elegantly reconcile our lust for the culturally rich, interactive vacation with an escape dedicated to unhurried leisure in sumptuous surroundings. Perhaps the biggest luxury built into the river cruise experience, however: You can leave the logistical issues to the professionals and instead concentrate on how you choose to experience each destination. Options include historic sightseeing, a hike or bike tour or grabbing a table at an outdoor café to drink in the locale through people-watching and window shopping.

It shouldn’t come as a shock that Eastern European itineraries are hotter than ever, thanks to the many options such opulent Old World port cities like Prague and Budapest offer. Croatia, however, proves unique because it integrates several facets of Eastern and Western European culture due to its history as a political and economic crossroads. These range from the Roman Empire to its years as Venetian territory (1420–1797), an Austro-Hungarian kingdom (1867–1917) and part of the former Yugoslavia.

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What makes this Croatian quilt even more impressive is its recovery from 20th-century wars and political turmoil to emerge in the 21st century with much of its architectural, artistic and culinary assets intact. Dubrovnik perhaps remains the most prominent of Croatia’s Adriatic cities because of its enduring reputation as one of the continent’s great beachfront playgrounds. But those wanting to avoid crushing crowds will delight in knowing other waterfront communities to the north fulfill the river cruise vacation’s promise: to enable one to discover a destination on one’s own terms and pace.

Thanks to a little television series called Game of Thrones, Split picked up momentum a few years ago. With the show wrapped and fan pilgrimages waning a bit, all visitors get to appreciate everything that made it Venice’s lushly landscaped backyard, from the sweeping expanse of Diocletian’s Palace (which appeared in the show) and several jewel box-sized museums (Ethnographic Museum, Split City Museum) to waterfront gin-and-tonic destina-

LODGING

BOUTIQUE HOTEL TVRĐA Contemporary art, light fixtures and furnishings make this downtown Osijek inn a stylish nod to the city’s years as a Viennese enclave. Slavonian and Istrian wine selections add to its charm.

Franjevačka ul. 7, Osijek $$$ BROWN BEACH HOUSE Amsterdam designer Saar Zafrira transformed a former tobacco shipment station into a glamorous 25-room boutique hilltop property with a 1950s Riviera-jet set sensibility, exceptional mixology and stellar views of Trogir.

Put Gradine 66, Trogir $$$$–$$$$$ HOTEL PARK SPLIT This hotel, opened in 1921, is like stepping into a Jazz Age travel poster with its palm-lined terrace, access to Bačvice Bay beach, glass-enclosed dining area, spa and impeccable rooms and suites.

Hatzeov Perivoj 3, Split $$$$

tion Brasserie No.7 and the Marcvs Marvlvs Library Jazz Bar, created by Argentine-born Croatian Tin Bokanić. Though it initially got on the map as a GOT backdrop, it stands on its own with a nicely curated list of Croatian wines, live and DJ music and the cool owner’s presence.

If a visit to Split lasts just a day or two, spend your time wandering around town to see history and a pan-cultural landscape come to life between sphinx statues, churches and a grand old city clock with 24 digits. Beaches, boardwalks and marinas flow into narrow streets that in turn pour into several large, open-air town squares similar to those in Spanish and Italian medieval towns.

Other hidden gems in Split’s city center include the façade of its old synagogue, a small weekend antiques market on the back end of the palace walls, the imposing Gregory of Nin statue (aka the Harry Potter wizard) and Luca Ice Cream. The latter rivals some of Italy’s best gelaterias with its inventive ice cream and sorbet flavors, rich coffee and fresh pastries.

After getting your fill of Split’s splendor, venture on to other Dalmatian cities including Salona, Polača and Zadar. Explore Roman ruins, medieval castles, cathedrals, terraces, statues and natural wonders.

Zadar hosts the Zadar Archaeological Museum, containing relics from the Paleolithic era through the 11th century, and the Zadar City Museum, covering the 13th century to the present day. The Museum of Ancient Glass, located in the former noble Cosmacendi family home, features glassblowing demonstrations as well as sparkling treasures, including glass kitchen objects, medicine and perfume bottles, funerary objects and jewelry.

Trogir, on the small island of Čiovo, earns its UNESCO World Heritage designation through its preserved medieval fortification walls; Renaissance, Baroque and Romanesque buildings; and picturesque bridges connecting it to the mainland. St. Lawrence Cathedral, dating to the 13th century, houses the Renaissance Chapel of St. John bell tower, noted for its breathtaking views.

Wine lovers and gourmands should make time for the many wineries best known for bold expressions of Tribidrag, the ancestral grape of California Zinfandel and Southern Italian Primitivo. One standout winery in Petrčane — Kraljevski Vinogradi (Royal Vineyards) — rolls out like a 19th-century painting … and not only because it occupies an 11th-century monastery whose monks were devoted to viticulture.

INFO TO GO

INFO TO GO More than a dozen Viking River Cruises itineraries include stops in Dubrovnik, Split and other Dalmatian cities, while Osijek and Slavonia feature on the line’s Passage to Eastern Europe and European Sojourns voyages. Other luxury cruise lines with Croatia stops include Regent Seven Seas, Celebrity, Variety and AmaWaterways.

For those interested in adding a more in-depth pre- or post-cruise stay, Truly Croatia Tours stages customizable land and sea itineraries through Croatia’s cities, villages and wine country.

Although no airlines originating from the United States fly directly to Croatia, carriers with efficient routes to Zagreb, Split and other cities include Lufthansa, Turkish Airlines, Air France, Alitalia, Swiss International Air Lines and KLM.

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HIGH POINT:

Church of St. Peter and Paul with bell tower in Osijek PHOTO: © VLADO FRANCISKOVIC DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING

BOKERIA The family-owned restaurant puts a fresh Catalonian/Spanish tapas twist on the Adriatic food-and-wine experience with flavorful nibbles and generous share plates crafted with seasonal components from area farms, fishmongers and markets.

Domaldova ul. 8, Split $$$ RESTAURANT KOD RUžE “The Rose Shop’s” chef, Dražen Čamić, proves Austro-European recipes are anything but stodgy.

Game meats, fish, sausage, stews, baked goods and spicy condiments are served with a side of energetic waiters and live music.

Ul. Franje Kuhača 25a, Osijek $$-$$$ UJE OIL BAR The popular eatery features changing daily specials and expertly wrought charcuterie, cheeses and marinated fish. House-made olive oils and condiments are offered for sale, providing guests inspiration to recreate a Dalmatianstyle feast at home.

Dominisova 6, Split $$$

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Today its vineyards nurture Dalmatian varietals Pošip, Plavac Mali and Crljenak (another Zinfandel cousin) and perfect backdrops for sunsets. The restaurant, featuring simple, hearty, local fare, serves dinners that prove the perfect foils for its various wine offerings.

With vineyards emerging from Brač Island’s rocky hillsides and a 1903 winery building whose entrance appears to float on the sea on a stormy day, one can expect the wines from Stina Winery (whose name is inspired by the limestone that impacts its wines’ aromas and flavors) to be dramatic.

A session inside the sleek tasting area does not disappoint, with flights of Stina Pošip, Plavac Mali Rose and Plavac Mali varietal wines. While Stina’s winemaking operations are outfitted with the latest equipment, the historic legacy of the area’s wine production and century-old “First Dalmatian Wine Cooperative” are nicely preserved.

Osijek, Croatia’s fourth-largest city, lies on the opposite side of the country along the Drava River, which acts as a border between Croatia and Hungary. To say the region

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feels like a completely different country states the obvious, as it is defined by its ornate-yet-sturdy architecture, streets and a cooler climate. The city radiates out from Tvrda, established during the Middle Ages as an autonomous town. Walls and barracks constructed around its perimeters projected its might to outsiders while maintaining a genteel ambience inside the walls prized by the Austria-Hungarian Empire’s elite.

Key sites in the present-day university town offer a deeper look into its varied history and include Museum of Slavonia, Franciscan Monastery and Church of Elevation of the Holy Cross (or the Church of St. Anthony, as the locals call it). Constructed on top of the remains of a church from the Middle Ages, it was later rebuilt into a Turkish mosque during the Ottoman occupation, 1526–1687. In Osijek’s Upper Town (Gornji Grad), a visit to the NeoGothic Parish Church of St. Peter and Paul proves fascinating, revealing a far more ambitious structure than the average neighborhood church. Its 300-foot-high bell tower — Croatia’s tallest building outside the capital city of Zagreb — was constructed at the end of the 19th century.

The statement-making structure dominates the urban skyline thanks to its 40 stained glass windows and stonework by noted Viennese sculptor Eduard Hauser.

At this church and elsewhere, pride of place shines through in spite of cracks and bullet holes scarring some of the buildings from the Homeland War that tore up Croatia in the early 1990s. Graceful mansions — including yellow structures which once identified the status of their original owners — are made more inviting through the storefronts of local businesses. These include busy cafés serving beloved national brands Franck coffee and Osječko beer, whose recipe dates to 1664. Restaurants serve traditional or reinvented versions of kulen (sausage), čvarci (fried meat bites), slanina (the local equivalent of bacon), freshwater fish with sides, and fiš paprika (spicy fish and paprika stew). Hit the town square at the right time and you may stumble into a paprika cook-off, offering the rare opportunity to sample different family recipes.

Osijek also boasts 17 parks covering nearly 100 acres.

Forests surround the city, including one giving way to Kopacki Rit Nature Park, one of Europe’s best-preserved wetlands. Explore it casually on hiking and walking paths or in a more structured way through tours on bike, boat or horse to view and photograph some of the area’s 260 species of birds, 40 species of fish and more than 140 species of plants.

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lgbtq+

Sailing with Pride Watch for a new wave of LGBTQ+-only cruises. BY MARK CHESNUT

ISLANDHOPPING:

Pride of Croatia tour PHOTO: © CRUISE CROATIA

COUNTLESS CRUISE LINES go out of their way to welcome LGBTQ+ travelers. But what if you’re in the mood for an environment where LGBTQ+ passengers are the majority — or perhaps the only people on board? Well, there are plenty of options for that type of experience, too.

Among the largest brands marketing specifically to LGBTQ+ travelers, Atlantis Events offers what it calls the “biggest gay cruise of 2020,” the Oasis 2020 Caribbean Cruise, taking some 5,500 mostly male guests on a festive itinerary that starts and ends in Miami, aboard Royal Caribbean’s recently renovated Oasis of the Seas. The company’s Auckland to Sydney cruise, meanwhile, sets sail aboard Holland America Line’s Noordam, timed to arrive in Sydney in late February for the Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras, one of the world’s largest LGBTQ+ pride celebrations.

Lesbian travelers comprise the prime audience for Olivia, which celebrates its 30th-anniversary Caribbean cruise in January 2020 with an itinerary that kicks off in Fort Lauderdale with a concert by the Indigo Girls before sailing for Key West, the Cayman Islands, Roatán and Cozumel. One of Olivia’s

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newest cruise itineraries, the Pacific Coastal Cruise, offers a six-night excursion aboard Holland America’s Volendam from San Diego to Vancouver.

Vacaya, one of the newer names on the LGBTQ+ cruise scene, launches a new Iceland Cruise in August 2020. Departing from Reykjavík, the eightday cruise aboard the new Le Jacques Cartier from Ponant Cruises stops to see glaciers, wildlife and geysers.

In Eastern Europe, luxury cruise specialist Cruise Croatia introduced a new Pride of Croatia tour featuring an island-hopping cruise from Split to Dubrovnik, with wine tasting activities and a visit to Plitvice Lakes National Park.

United Kingdom-based luxury travel specialist Out of Office is among the companies seeing an increased interest in LGBTQ+-only cruises. For 2020 the company is offering a series of gay-only, high-end cruises from Source Events, including an “all-gay luxury Tahiti cruise” on board the Wind Spirit, and a Miami Pride cruise that departs from Miami right after that city’s LGBTQ+ pride celebrations. “We’ve already had a lot of interest in both cruises, especially the Tahiti one,” said Alex Klineberg, content executive, Out of Office.

port update

Point of Departure Port Canaveral enhances the cruise experience with unique, innovative amenities. BY ERICH MARTIN

WHEN IT COMES TO PLACES OF entry and departure, airports are both more common and can have more character than the average cruise port. Port Canaveral, however, near Orlando, Florida, boasts tons of charm to complement the plentiful cruises departing daily.

Dedicated in late 1953, in the beginning Port Canaveral focused less on cruising and more on supporting the fishing industry. The port came into its own as a cruising destination in the mid-1970s when cruise lines discovered it and began offering shore excursions to attractions in Central Florida. Since then, Port Canaveral expanded to accommodate more than 4 million cruise passengers every year.

Unsurprisingly, Disney Cruise Line operates out of the port. Additionally, Royal Caribbean, Norwegian Cruise Line and Carnival Cruise Line call the port home. Canaveral offers visitors plenty to do outside of the normal cruise boarding activities. Beaches, rocket launches, a casino and more make Canaveral more than a run-of-the-mill spot to catch a cruise. Outside of the cruise industry, the port operates as a destination in itself, complete with options for travelers looking to spice up their time just before or after cruising.

Despite its success in attracting cruisers and cruise lines, Canaveral refuses to rest on its laurels. Earlier this year, the port earned Green Marine certification for the second time, proving its commitment to preserving the environment.

Port Canaveral provides ample parking; for those embarking on multiday cruises, parking is available directly adjacent to the cruise terminal of departure. As it stands now, Port Canaveral is the second-busiest cruising port in the world in multiday embarkations (the Port of Miami remains the busiest by number of passengers).

Looking toward the future, Canaveral officials aim to take the top spot by continually renovating and improving the port to provide

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more amenities and options for travelers.

Cruises departing from Port Canaveral typically sail above 100 percent capacity. The proximity to family-friendly attractions throughout Florida makes Canaveral an excellent port of departure for families looking to parlay a cruise into an extravagant trip to Disney World or Universal Studios.

Port Canaveral officials cite a study from Bermello Ajamil and Partners, a cruising consultancy agency, which argues industry ship growth will require 10 new cruise terminals in the near future.

Canaveral’s extra space, deep-water channel and accessibility make it the best candidate to accommodate new ships servicing Florida.

Recently, the port invested more than $300 million in terminal renovations, including $150 million for Terminal 3 alone. Carnival Cruise Line’s biggest and newest ship will arrive next year and call the terminal home.

DOCKSIDE:

View of Port Canaveral from a cruise ship PHOTO: © SOLARISYS13 DREAMSTIME.COM

CAPE CANAVERAL PORT AUTHORITY portcanaveral.com

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9–5 | CAPE TOWN

GT on the Road GT Members Section Captivating Cape Town

passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet.

Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle.

Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25).

The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million.

Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center.

Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background.

Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300.

While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

he new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world.

You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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Your Best Interest A health advocate can help you get the care you need. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN WHEN TRAVELING WITH FAMILY or friends who become ill, you may have to advocate for them to receive the best health care or have their concerns taken seriously.

Or you may need a health advocate yourself. A health advocate is a family member, friend, trusted co-worker or a hired professional who can ask questions, write down information and speak up for you so you can better understand your illness and receive the care and treatment you need, giving you peace of mind so you can focus on your recovery.

An effective advocate — at home or abroad — is someone you trust who is willing to act on your behalf as well as someone who can work well with members of your health care team. Select a person with good communication skills who is assertive but calm, organized and willing to ask questions.

Decide how your advocate can help and what you want to handle on your own. You may want help clarifying your options for hospitals, doctors, diagnostic tests and procedures or treatment choices. Decide if you would like your advocate to accompany you to tests, appointments, treatments and procedures.

Assure your wishes are carried out when you may not be able to do so yourself.

Provide your advocate with details of your medical history; you may want to provide access to your electronic health record so he or she can refer to test results or notes, ask for refills on prescriptions and email questions or concerns to the physician. Make sure you give permission for the doctor and other care professionals to share

information about you with your advocate.

Arrange for your designated advocate to be the spokesperson for the rest of your family and make sure your family members know this. This will provide a consistent communication link for your caregivers and help minimize confusion and misunderstandings within your family. Make sure your doctor and nurses have your advocate’s phone number and that your advocate has the numbers for your providers, hospital and pharmacy, as well as anyone else you want to contact in case of an emergency.

You may consider using a professional advocate. Hospitals usually include professional staff as patient representatives or advocates.

Social workers, nurses and chaplains may also fill this role. These advocates can help cut through red tape. However, remember they work for the hospital.

Make sure a medication reconciliation is conducted, meaning a pharmacist, health care provider or nurse checks your medications against what the provider ordered. This way you will receive all your daily medications at the correct dose and time.

If traveling abroad and language is an issue, it is best not to use a hospital interpreter. Languages have many dialects. Make sure the translation is accurate since your care and life may depend on it. U.S. hospitals currently use language translation services that ensure accuracy. Usually there is a phone number you can call to request a translator fluent in the language, dialect and English. They are available 24/7 and provide translators for more than 300 languages and dialects.

Online language services and apps are also available to provide accurate verbal communication between patients and health care providers. A 2019 National Institutes of Health research study rated Canopy Speak, Google Translate, Microsoft Translate, NeverPapapo Translate, SayHi Translate and TripLingo as the top health care translation apps. All ranked highest for assessment, diagnosis, treatment, care planning, discharge, medicolegal conversations including consent and cultural diversity in language.

Telemedicine is now global and offers a great way to connect with your provider who knows you and cared for you. The doctor can provide interactive health care utilizing technology and telecommunications. The provider’s willingness and ability to provide a remote overseas consultation will vary with the nature of the problem, a willingness to work pro bono or the ability to charge for services, as well as the time of day.

As you age, you may have more health issues to discuss. It helps to have two people hear the discussion, as it’s difficult for one person to remember all the details. While your personal health advocate can help if you’re hospitalized, keep in mind hospital patient advocates, geriatric care managers, registered nurses and social workers often serve as health care advocates.

Advocacy safeguards the rights of the patient and seeks to ensure people have their voice heard when decisions are made about their lives. Choose someone you respect and trust who is discreet and has your best interest in mind at all times.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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A hilltop castle situated at a bend in the Vistula River, a medieval Old Town accented by a quirky clock tower from which a trumpet player toots his horn every hour, and a reputation for hearty beer and pierogies comprise the heart of KrakĂłw, a city in southern Poland. Learn more about Krakow next month as you read Destination One: Krakow.

PHOTO: Š RUDI1976 - DREAMSTIME.COM

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