August 2017 Global Traveler

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THE WINE ISSUE BROOKLYN p. 58 FINGER LAKES p. 66 GUJARAT p. 64 INCHEON p. 60 JINJIANG p. 52 POMPEII p. 70 SALZBURG p. 62 TAHITI p. 72

August 2017

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letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

TASTE FOR ADVENTURE WELCOME TO OUR FIRST-EVER WINE ISSUE! At Global Traveler we certainly have an appreciation for all things vino. For 13 years we’ve announced the winners of our annual Wines on the Wing airline wine competition in our August issue, and this year we take it a step further, with most of the articles on the following pages containing information on wine.

Join us in raising a glass, and say cheers to the 2017 Wines on the Wing winners on page 36!

I’ve been on quite the journey thus far in 2017; I just returned from my first trip to Thailand and a return visit to London with my college friend, reminiscing along the way about our semester abroad there in 2005. As you can see from this month’s picture, I made a new friend in Thailand at Baan Chang Elephant PACHYDERM PAL: Kimberly Krol with her newest friend in Farm, a sanctuary in Chiang Mai that rescues Thailand at Baan Chang Elephant Farm elephants from the logging industry. Whether PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL visiting a destination for the first time or returning to an old favorite, I always challenge myself to experience something new and perhaps step outside my comfort zone. I got knee-deep in mud at an organic farm in Sukhothai to plant rice, and I took a daytrip to explore the Cotswolds, a previously undiscovered part of England for me. What adventures have you found yourself on this summer? And what corner of the world are you planning to visit next?

Perhaps you’ll find your inspiration in this month’s issue, particularly if you’re thirsting for a trip to one of the world’s storied wine regions. Kristy Alpert can help on page 44. Art director Tracey Cullen’s frequent trips to New York’s Finger Lakes were a catalyst for the area’s inclusion this month. Wine-taste with us in the region on page 66. Where else can we travel together this month? Cartagena, Jinjiang, Brooklyn, Incheon, Salzburg, Gujarat, Pompeii, Tahiti and San Francisco.

Next month, another worldwide adventure awaits. Bon voyage! In the meantime, follow me on my adventures on Instagram, @kimk928.

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor NICOLE QUASTÉ nicole.quaste@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editorial Coordinator JENNA PAYESKO jenna.payesko@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Digital Coordinator ALLIE MENZIONE allie.menzione@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT PATRICK T. COOPER EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER AKHIL KALEPU ALLIE MOORE TERRY A. SPRUNGER

KRISTY ALPERT RON BERNTHAL EUNICE FRIED BECCA HENSLEY ILONA KAUREMSZKY TIM LEFFEL RICHARD NEWTON BARBARA ROGERS SUSAN VAN ALLEN ALLISON VOIGTS

ete bios, For compl usa.com altraveler visit glob

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA

Black Sushi ‘O offers Container lt of be g in ov am ly continuous sushi prepared seafood and live fresh from prepared in front um ri ua an aq rant. au st re e of th out ab e or m Read on n Incheo page 60.

Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

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letter from the publisher ® ®

GET OUT AND GO I AM SPILLING THE BEANS: In one month we will launch a web-based digital magazine for family travel. Following in the footsteps of our successful digital products globaltravelerusa .com and trazeetravel.com — targeting the business and luxury traveler and the millennial traveler, respectively — we are pleased to debut whereverfamily .com in September. The product fills a void in the market: While other publiWHEREVER WE GO: cations casually add articles about this Francis X. Gallagher and his family on South African Airways subject, we will devote an entire site to PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER families who want to get out and go.

This past winter the Family Travel Association and my longtime friend Rainer Jenss reached out and planted the seed for a family travel magazine. After much discussion and our own internal research, we determined there was a strong need for the product from the readers’ perspective, and a large desire for marketers to reach this segment. Over the past 15 years, for example, Club Med shifted its target market from adults to 70 percent families.

As a totally independent publication not tied to any group or company in the industry, WhereverFamily will offer an open and unhindered look at family travel. Mind you, this will come from editors and writers who travel around the world with families of all types. That description also sets us apart, as we support a broad sense of what a family is and who will make up the readership of whereverfamily.com.

Of course, we will focus on the traditional families with children, but we will also address multigenerational travel, parents who travel with adult children and blended families. Only you determine if your particular group is a family, and we will write for all — as long as they want to get up and go and take their family along.

When I was a child, my parents took me to Avalon, N.J., every summer, where we fished, went to the beach and had a great time. We all took the train from Philadelphia to New York for the World’s Fair (where we first saw the Small World ride and exhibit now preeminently placed at Disneyland in California) and enjoyed other daytrips and vacations. With my own family, I followed in my parents’ footsteps and took weeks at the beach, first in New Jersey and now in Kitty Hawk, N.C. But unlike the generation before, we took bolder steps and headed out on longer treks and overseas excursions, family in tow.

I have made many family trips to the Caribbean, Mexico, California, Europe and Canada, and most recently returned from Zambia, Zimbabwe and South Africa. Part of our family joined me on my South African Airways flight from Dulles, with another adult child flying directly from New York to meet us. I noticed on our flight to Africa and while on safari that all sorts of people made up the family mix.

So gear up as we fill a true void in the marketplace and address, with a clear voice, the unique desires and concerns of families that travel together.

ADVERTISING Publisher/CEO FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER tel 267 364 5811 ext 200 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Vice President RICHARD T. EVANS tel 267 364 5811 ext 203 | dick.evans@globaltravelerusa.com Executive Vice President, Associate Publisher CARLY ALLEN tel 267 495 6287 | carly.allen@globaltravelerusa.com Director of Sales WILLIAM PAPA tel 267 884 1650 | william.papa@globaltravelerusa.com Advertising Manager JEAN-CLAUDE CHAOULOFF tel 215 301 6869 | jean-claude.chaouloff@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive ASHLEY RICHARDS tel 267 364 5811 ext 205 | ashley.richards@globaltravelerusa.com Advertising Coordinator ANDREW RISCH tel 267 364 5811 ext 201 | andrew.risch@globaltravelerusa.com Intern GRACE KHANLIAN grace@globaltravelerusa.com

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contents

August 2017 44

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

36 Wines on the Wing 2017 GT presents the winners of the 13th annual Wines on the Wing airline wine competition.

52 Destination One: Jinjiang The trading culture runs deep in modern-day Jinjiang.

44 Through the Grapevine Tour the world’s best wine regions for a taste of local terroir.

58 Stateside: Brooklyn Business and population growth reach new heights in Brooklyn.

48 Enchantment of Cartagena Host meetings and events in Colombia’s exotic walled city.

60 9–5: Incheon Impress clients in Incheon’s futuristic Songdo business district.

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62 After 5: Salzburg Wine bars, beer cellars and cafés abound in Salzburg.

AUGUST 2017

ON THE COVER globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

August 2017

THE WINE ISSUE BROOKLYN p. 58 FINGER LAKES p. 66 GUJARAT p. 64 INCHEON p. 60 JINJIANG p. 52 POMPEII p. 70 SALZBURG p. 62 TAHITI p. 72

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COVER PHOTO: PHOTO: © ROBYN MACKENZIE | DREAMSTIME.COM

ORGANIZATION

FEATURES

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60

52

PHOTOS: © GLOBAL TRAVELER, © CLOUDY BAY, © BBBAR | DREAMSTIME.COM, © INCHEON TOURISM

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contents

August 2017 66

70

LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

24 25 26 28 32 34 35 76 80

10 Mail Call 13 News 16 Reviews 21 One on One Changi International Airport 22 One on One American Airlines 78 Airport Update 82 Past & Present

64 Neighborhoods: Gujarat Delve into the rich heritage of Old Ahmedabad.

Technology Wine & Spirits Spoils Spas Golf Chefs Cruising LGBTQ Health

66 Friends & Family: Finger Lakes Sample the simple pleasures of New York’s Finger Lakes Wine Country.

70 Bucket List: Pompeii Explore ancient Roman life preserved in the ashes of Pompeii.

72 Kicking Back: Tahiti Make a heavenly escape to Tahiti’s far-flung islands.

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Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material.

AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2017 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

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mail call

JUNE Q&A: ANGELIQUE PLATAS, ASSISTANT EDITOR

Q&A WITH ANDREW RISCH

In the June issue, our assistant editor, Angelique Platas, expressed her interest in health and wellness retreats. From nature getaways and outdoor activities to meditation experiences and fresh, healthy dining, the possibilities for health and wellness retreats are endless. She asked: What resorts and destinations are worth trying this summer for first-time wellness vacations?

My daughter and I went to the Aqua Wellness Resort in Tola, Nicaragua, last year. The resort itself is so relaxing, and we got to do yoga on a deck overlooking the ocean every morning. Our room also had a private pool, perfect after yoga. This was my first wellness retreat, and I have to say, I came back feeling refreshed.

MAUREEN KOSA, via email My husband and I love hiking.

A few months back we did a simple search for the best hiking trails in the world and picked Te Araroa Trail in New Zealand.

We head out in November, spring in New Zealand, so it’ll be beautiful. We’ve never been to New Zealand, but we’re always looking for scenic hikes. For us, they combine exercise with relaxation. We’re addicts!

LAURA KUNTZ, Philadelphia, Pa.

Outside of the United States, I’ve had the pleasure of visiting Europe, Canada, Mexico and China, and I have to say China was probably my favorite. I went when I was a freshman in high school, and our choir was chosen to sing at one of the preliminary ceremonies of the Beijing Olympics. We visited Beijing, Hong Kong and the Forbidden City, among many other places. It was truly an eye-opening experience and one of the most exciting trips I’ve taken.

What is your all-time favorite destination? If you’ve visited China, what was the highlight of your trip?

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

CRUISE TRENDS

AIRLINE SATISFACTION

In the June 6 issue of eFlyer USA, we looked at some of the top cruise trends, according to CruiseCompete’s June report. We asked: If you’ve been on a cruise lately, tell us about it; and if you’re planning on taking a cruise, what types of things do you look for in a great cruise experience?

In the June 13 issue of eFlyer USA, we talked about the result of J.D. Power’s annual North America Airline Satisfaction Study, which reflects happy customers, overall.

We asked: Have you been satisfied overall with your flights this year?

Were there any particular instances of positive or negative experiences?

Last year I took my kids on a Royal Caribbean cruise. It was aboard the new Harmony of the Seas ship, and it was incredible.

We often forgot we were even on a cruise ship, there was so much to do and see. We did a week-long sail from Barcelona to Rome, as my kids had never been to Europe and I thought it was a great way to give them a sampling. If you don’t mind massive ships, I recommend the Harmony of the Seas.

I’ve actually been really satisfied overall with my flights this year. With so much going on, I’d expect more stressful situations, but other than some slightly delayed takeoffs lately, everything has been smooth sailing (or rather, flying).

JIM TOLMEN, via email

BEN MEARNS, via email

FOURTH OF JULY TRAVEL In the June 28 issue of eFlyer USA, we shared the findings of a AAA survey that revealed a record-

breaking 44.2 million Americans traveling over the Fourth of July holiday. We asked: What did you do over the Fourth of July holidays? If you traveled, how did you get there?

Contrary to the findings, my family enjoyed a staycation this year. We usually visit family down south, but we enjoyed the comforts of our own backyard. We just weren’t up for the traffic and congestion. Hope you all had a great Fourth!

MARY SENOIT, via email Every year, there are news articles about heavy traffic, airport congestion, etc., but my family travels every year around the Fourth of July to see friends and family, and we’ve never had too much of a problem. That being said, we do avoid driving to the shore during rush hour. This year we flew from New York to Austin and then

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler.

We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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Non-Stop Delight @My Transit in Taiwan Beef Noodles 8:30PM

Tea Culture

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2:20PM

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3C Market 5:38PM

Mango Ice 4:46PM

Night Market 9:50PM

Dumplings 11:30AM

Hakka Fabrics 6:05PM

Temple 5:52PM

National Palace Museum 3:43PM

Peking Opera 7:00PM

Taipei 101

Jiufen Old Town 7:50PM

10:53PM

I never thought my transit in Taiwan would be so utterly amazing and unforgettable.

Delicate dumplings, beef noodles and bubble tea restored my appetite after a long flight.

The National Palace Museum, Longshan Temple and Peking opera opened my eyes.

Stunning views from Taipei 101, bustling night markets and chic bars thrilled me.

My transit in Taiwan: A brief yet incredible whirlwind of non-stop delight!

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THE SOURCE FOR LUxURY BUSINE

ABU DHABI

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

ABOVE AND BEYOND

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | COOK

ISLANDS

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

chefs

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

YOND . hts aboard ANA ABOVE AND BE dining to new heig

BY KIMBERLY

KROL

nese amura takes Japa Chef Hiroyuki Kaw

36

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NS INSPIRED YOU, WHICH DESTINATIO N THAT INSPIRATIO AND HOW HAS ING/ INTO YOUR COOK TRANSLATED MENUS? go, fresh e steak in Chica Aged beef T-bon I would tasty; was es: Each uni in Los Angel the most of how to make like to explore food ingredieach of s the original flavor cuisine. ese Japan in ent like that

I loved this month’s chef feature. I actually just returned not long ago from Japan, and I had the pleasure of flying All Nippon Airways. My meal was outstanding.

I had the Awaodori, which I was told is a local breed of chicken in Japan. It had a ton of flavor and a little kick of spice — not something you usually get with an airline meal. The service was great, too.

ANA never disappoints.

MARK BYRON,

JUNE 2017

New York, N.Y.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands.

BY mouth.

BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones.

PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

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anywhere your business takes you, right on your globaltravelerusa.com headed to Florida to see some friends. Lots of great food, time to relax and fireworks. It was a nice break from work and great to spend time with the kids now that they’re out of school.

RON SIMMONDS, via email

GT SLIDESHOWS I enjoy the “slideshows” you send out from time to time. However, it always seems that the first slide has introductory commentary about the content of the slideshow but never identifies the location of the first picture. Look again at the beaches slideshow just sent out.

Where are those rocks, boats and green water located? I hope you can fix that in the future.

MARVIN SINGER, GT GLOBILITY BOARD, via email Thank you so much for bringing this to our team’s attention. The first slide of the slideshow you referred to is of Maya Bay, Thailand. Going forward, the GT slideshows will include photo details on every slide. We appreciate your feedback.

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ROMANTIC DESTINATIONS I saw you included Sedona in your romantic destinations slideshow a few weeks ago.

Sedona is my and my wife’s favorite place to visit for a vacation. We know we need to mix it up, but it just keeps pulling us back.

Nothing beats looking out on the red rocks over morning coffee. Great slideshow!

CURT WATTS, via email

ON THE RUN I always appreciate a great gym in my hotel, but I’m not sure how I feel about an airport workout. I understand there’s a shower and changing area, which is convenient, but I can’t wrap my head around getting sweaty before a work flight. Any extra time I do have in an airport is for working and coffee. It is great, though, seeing all of these companies incorporating more fitness and healthy lifestyle services.

EDWARD SUSSMAN, via email

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WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS? Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from visiting Bergen, Norway, to touring Nashville by party bike.

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Availa at the

news Park Hyatt Debuts

The luxury brand Park Hyatt opened a property on the Spanish island of Mallorca.

Situated among rolling green hills on the northeastern tip of the island, Park Hyatt Mallorca exudes elegance while encompassing the spirit of local life. Guests can relax in one of 142 rooms or 16 suites and dine at one of four restaurants that surround a central courtyard.

A café, Asian restaurant, Balearic eatery and a tapas bar comprise the culinary options inside the hotel, but guests can also order food to be brought to them poolside.

The hotel lies half a mile from Canyamel Beach, where guests can enjoy castles, a vineyard and sunbathing. Other hotel amenities include a 24-hour fitness center, kids’ club and the Serenitas Spa. park.hyatt.com

PHOTOS: © JAHANZAIB NAIYYER | DREAMSTIME.COM, © IGOR SKRYAGIN | DREAMSTIME.COM

WORLD’S FASTEST WIFI COMES TO DUBAI AIRPORT

Spotty networks, complicated log-in instructions and arbitrary time limits make airport WiFi connections consistently unreliable, and they often come with a price for unlimited browsing. But Dubai International Airport introduced a new wireless internet service that boasts the fastest connection speeds on the planet.

Since the busy airport launched free WiFi in December 2016 with no time limits, the new high-speed service has been the next step in building the world’s best connection. Named WOW-Fi, the free, airport-wide wireless internet access will allow travelers to download, upload and stream at 100Mbps.

The world’s fastest WiFi also will be easy to access and will not require cumbersome account registrations or lengthy log-in processes. Guests can simply connect their device with a click to get online.

The Middle Eastern airport anticipates 89 million travelers will pass through its gates in 2017, making the arrival of WOW-Fi impeccably timed. dubaiairports.ae

WANT MORE NEWS ON THE GO? SIGN UP FOR GT NEWSLETTERS Global Traveler’s weekly newsletters keep you up to date with info on the go. Sign up for newsletters at globaltravelerusa.com/newsletter.

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GT ’s independently run weekly travel email newsletter written for the Asian travel market.

Possible Changes to TSA Security

It seems every week of air travel presents a new security measure aimed at making flying safer and more secure. As the Transportation Security Administration lays on rule after rule, passengers are asked to employ a heavy dose of patience.

The recent laptop ban is one inconvenience travelers face, but another has been in the works for at least two years. Due to checked luggage restrictions, more passengers are carrying on luggage, filling bags to the brim and making it more difficult for TSA screeners to efficiently scan

them. Currently underway at three national airports, passengers who pass through airport security now must unpack food items and any electronics larger than a mobile phone and place these items in separate bins.

This measure is undergoing a trial period at Los Angeles International, Boston Logan International and Fort LauderdaleHollywood International airports, with plans to expand as more TSA agents are trained. This new regulation does not apply to TSA PreCheck members. tsa.gov

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news

Travelers thinking about finally taking that long-awaited cruise have more options than ever as major international cruise lines debut new vessels for the 2017 cruise season. Among the new ships is Norwegian Joy from Norwegian Cruise Line, a custom ship targeted toward Chinese travelers and featuring a Mandarin-speaking staff, classic Chinese meals and interactive cultural experiences on board.

ncl.com msccruisesusa.com vikingcruises.com

Airbus Aims to Reduce Jet Lag

JFK’s TWA Hotel

At any given time, at least one of three New York-area airports seems to be under construction. At John F. Kennedy International Airport, Terminal 5 is reviving the old TWA Flight Center, out of use since 2001, and constructing a massive travel complex complete with a hotel, museum, conference space and food hall.

The TWA Hotel will feature 505 guestrooms and at least eight restaurant options, plus a bar serving drinks from inside an old plane.

Scheduled to open in late 2018 or early 2019, rates for one night at the TWA Hotel will start at $250. twahotel.com

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The dreaded dry-mouthed, exhausted, post-flight condition known as jet lag is one of the major drawbacks just part of the deal when flying across multiple time zones. Despite the overwhelming number of articles listing ways to prevent and cure the condition, it is still challenging to nail the ailment to an exact science. But two aircraft engineers feel they may have the secret to minimizing the “plane brain” effect by simply altering elements of the plane’s problematic interior.

A new model of the Airbus A350 will continue to fly at 30,000 feet, but thanks to an innovative interior,

the passenger environment will mimic that of just 6,000 feet.

Enhanced circulation and filtration systems will push stale air out and bring fresh air in, while interior lighting effects will adjust according to passengers’ circadian rhythms.

An exterior made from carbonreinforced plastic will allow natural moisture into the plane’s cabin, contrary to the liquid-repellent properties of the current aluminum plane body. Moist air inside means a lower possibility of dehydration and fatigue.

This Airbus model is currently available from Qatar Airways, Singapore Airlines and Cathay Pacific, among others. airbus.com

PHOTOS: © NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE, © VIKING CRUISES, © TWA HOTEL

New Cruise Ships Set Sail

After two years of construction, MSC Cruises’ MSC Seaside will set sail in December with its own on-deck water park and a boardwalk that extends around the entire ship.

Also in December, Viking Cruises will launch its first-ever world cruise aboard the Viking Sun, sporting a smaller design for easier maneuvering into and out of ports. The ship is equipped to handle long voyages, like a route from Los Angeles to London or Lisbon to Miami.

deals & rewards

Free Night in Doha

PHOTOS: © DABOOST | DREAMSTIME.COM, © EDWARDSTAINES | DREAMSTIME.COM, © TOMAS DEL AMO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ST. REGIS WASHINGTON, D.C.

Fewer Rewards Seats Available

Racking up flight rewards is a perk for many a frequent traveler who can turn around and use those points for premium seats in the sky. This year, however, the availability of award-worthy seats decreased for the first time since 2010.

IdeaWorksCompany, an airline consulting company, released its annual Reward Seat Availability Survey, stating the availability of reward-redeeming seats in 2017 decreased from 76.6 percent to 72.4 percent. This small

Asia to Hawai’i for $149

For the first time in AirAsia’s existence as a low-cost carrier, the Malaysia-based airline now travels from Asia to the United States for a jaw-dropping price.

decline means travelers looking to redeem rewards on premium seats will have fewer options than in past years.

The survey also revealed the best airlines for finding and securing reward seats were Southwest, JetBlue and airberlin, all of which offer availability of more than 90 percent.

Travelers who wish to redeem miles on United Airlines or American Airlines, however, will only find redeemable seats 65 percent and 54.3 percent of the time, respectively. ideaworkscompany.com

Facing a long overnight layover in the common connection destination of Doha? Qatar Airways and the Qatar Tourism Authority are offering a free night in a local luxury hotel for travelers who booked an eastbound, round-trip flight that includes an overnight stopover in the Middle Eastern city.

As part of a promotion, called +Qatar, to encourage travelers to spend some of their holiday time in the country, the first night at select 4- and 5-star hotels is free, with the option to add a second night for only $50.

This means travelers can build in a multiday stopover in Doha and explore the region. With an expected 30 million passengers to pass through the international airport this year, proponents of the program hope some of these travelers will extend their layovers for a miniature Doha vacation.

Hotels honoring this deal include Four Seasons, Radisson Blu, Marriott Marquis and Oryx Rotana. qatarairways.com

Since June, four weekly flights have been available between Kuala Lumpur (KUL) and Honolulu (HNL), including a two-hour layover in Osaka (KIX). The one-way journey from Kuala Lumpur to Osaka costs $99, and to continue to Honolulu, passengers pay only $149 for a one-way ticket.

With this new route, the Asian budget airline hopes to continue to expand its low-cost service to offer more long-haul flight opportunities, following in the footsteps of other budget airlines like Norwegian Air and WOW Air.

Third Night Free at D.C. St. Regis

airasia.com

stregiswashingtondc.com

Starwood Preferred Guest Virtuoso members who book two nights at The St. Regis Washington, D.C. can enjoy a free third night through Sept. 30.

Located two blocks from The White House, the downtown D.C. property has welcomed many esteemed guests throughout the years including presidents, prime ministers and dignitaries from around the world.

SPG members who want to take advantage of this promotion must enter their SPG Pro number when booking.

spg.com/virtuoso

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ASIANA AIRLINES | BUSINESS CLASS

Incheon (ICN) to Singapore (SIN)

Reviewed by Carly Allen

Pre-Flight: We boarded our Airbus A330 on time, and attendants quickly showed us to our seats in the business-class cabin with a 2-2-2 configuration. The crew quickly offered snacks and

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orange juice, and I was glad to get my electronics set up before we took off.

In-Flight: Once we reached cruising altitude, I got situated for the six-hour journey to Singapore, starting with a nice cup of green tea. Each seat features international electrical outlets, so I charged my devices after a day of meetings. The seats on this aircraft offer a nice seat pitch, but it wasn’t fully 180 degrees, which made me slide a bit when trying to rest. However, this was a day flight, and I had plenty of things to keep me busy. Passengers can access the onboard entertainment through the fully functioning handset to choose from dozens of movie and music options plus make requests to the crew.

The full-service dinner offered wines and top-shelf spirits along with Western food and traditional Korean fare. I chose a Korean dish of chicken and white rice with kimchi alongside a garden salad and finished with a fruit tart and glass of Riesling. After dinner, everything was cleared quickly, and my flight attendant, to my delight, brought me a cup of green tea and extra pillows without prompting to enjoy during the remaining time on board.

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ Asiana’s flight attendants prove their award-winning service: always helpful, attentive and kind. ◆ Asiana’s route network throughout Asia and transfer at ICN make a convenient experience for North American travelers. ◆ Leave plenty of time before your flight to enjoy everything Incheon Airport has to offer.

Asiana Airlines flyasiana.com

PHOTOS: © ASIANA AIRLINES

On the Ground: Flying out of Incheon Airport is an experience all on its own. Routinely named the best airport in the world, it boasts dozens of high-end retail shops and every kind of cuisine you can imagine. We arrived three hours early for our international flight, and I was able to get my last bowl of kimchi stew at Sonsoo Bansang, located in the Food Emporium, along with some last-minute duty-free items.

Asiana’s business-class lounge offers everything you’d expect at a home base airport. Sky-high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the runway give this huge room an open feeling despite the busy traffic. Seat options include club chairs, bar stools and private cubicles, allowing travelers choices to pass the time. We chose the club chairs close to the grand piano to get some work done. The food bar offered the usual fare, but a chef stands ready to stir-fry a hot meal at the noodle bar if you want something heavier.

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SWISSÔTEL THE STAMFORD Reviewed by Carly Allen

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

PHOTOS: © SWISSÔTEL THE STAMFORD

Arrival/Check-In: The beauty of Singapore is you’re always just minutes from any given destination, so having landed at Changi Airport at 10 p.m., I arrived at Swissôtel The Stamford in 15 minutes. The lobby was still busy with travelers coming back from a stroll or a late dinner. While waiting my turn to check in, I checked out the large lobby, which boasts the Lobby Court and beautiful local flowers. Be aware the elevators are heavily trafficked and take about five minutes for each ride.

Guest Quarters: My Classic Room was on an upper floor, featuring amazing views of Marina Bay. Unfortunately, the room had a faulty air conditioner, and after several attempts to fix it, the staff upgraded me to a new room. The staff were professional and friendly, and due to my full day of meetings, they offered to move everything for me while I was out.

My new Stamford Crest Suite was not only cool but also beautiful. The entryway led into a living space with floor-toceiling windows, a couch, a lounge chair and a large desk facing a flat-screen TV. The open-area bathroom featured a powder room that opened to a white and dark-jade marbled bathroom with double sinks, a full vanity, a stand-alone shower and a large spa tub with open shutters overlooking the bedroom.

The entire bathroom provided excellent lighting. The closet

area off the bathroom had its own dedicated lounging couch and full-length mirrors, which I found decadent and useful.

Through double doors from the living room, the bedroom featured floor-to-ceiling windows offering excellent natural light and amazing views of the city. While working from my king-sized bed, I watched an intense thunderstorm envelop the city, followed by sunshine not long after.

Services/Amenities: One of the best parts of the hotel is the service. Club floor guests have access to the Swiss Executive Lounge, and suite guests have access to the private Living Room on the 65th floor, featuring a peaceful and comfortable atmosphere for tea, breakfast or evening cocktails.

Swissôtel The Stamford and the Fairmont Singapore are separate properties connected via a large mall, and they share the same spa and several restaurants. For a unique experience, Equinox is located on the top floor of the Swissôtel and offers breathtaking, 360-degree views and modern European dishes. If you can squeeze in a lunch at Mikuni, located in the mall area, I recommend the bento boxes for a tasty lunch in an elegant business atmosphere. For after-work outings, a must-try is Anti:Dote, located in the lobby of the Fairmont, an edgy hot spot offering locally crafted cocktails; it was our go-to meeting spot at the end of long workdays.

◆ The Swissôtel lies just a 10-minute walk from Marina Bay, a great place for a morning jog or to view the amazing scenery. ◆ Between the Swissôtel and the Fairmont, the dining options are plentiful, but try Anti:Dote, a unique cocktail bar. ◆ The amazing views from the top are a sight to behold, from sunrise to ships coming into port to Marina Bay lit up for nightlife.

Swissôtel The Stamford 2 Stamford Road Singapore 178882 Singapore tel 65 6338 8585 swissotel.com

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THE RITZ-CARLTON, BERLIN Reviewed by Banu Yilmaz

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ Visit Fragrances, a cocktail bar based on perfumes, for an evening of unique indulgence.

Even though I didn’t get a chance to experience it, I put it on my bucket list for next time.

Arrival/Check-In: In the heart of the hustle and bustle of Berlin we found ourselves arriving at The Ritz-Carlton, Berlin on a sunny day, which also happened to be my birthday. The lobby featured a gorgeous chandelier and a Baroque-style staircase to the level above. Excited about the day ahead, we arrived quite early to check in, around 9 a.m. Of course, the room was not yet ready, but the staff kindly offered us coffee while we waited. Shortly afterward the room was ready, and we checked in within minutes. The friendly staff welcomed me with happy birthday wishes at check-in, and the wishes continued during my stay.

Services/Amenities: Although I didn’t take full advantage

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of all the services at this beautiful property, they include a bath butler and a shoe butler as well as catering services. Each morning I enjoyed reading my complimentary newspaper while indulging in room service for breakfast. I also discovered the little oasis in the spa area consisting of a sauna, pool and fitness room. It is a perfect way to unwind from your busy day.

Definitely do lunch or dinner at The Brasserie Desbrosses, a fresh, farm-to-table concept serving creative dishes made with organic vegetables and herbs cultivated at the hotel’s own field. Ask for wine recommendations, but the house red is immaculate. Try the steak tartar and the buffala burrata, but you can’t go wrong with any of the dishes. Even the bread and butter were incredible.

◆ In the mood for afternoon tea? You’ve come to the right place. The luxurious Tea Lounge even features its own tea sommeliers — both tea masters trained in India.

The Ritz-Carlton, Berlin Potsdamer Platz 3 Berlin, 10785 Germany tel 493 033 7777 ritzcarlton.com

PHOTOS: © THE RITZ-CARLTON, BERLIN

Guest Quarters: As I walked into the room, I noticed a tray of delicious goodies that included a few desserts and a fruit plate along with a birthday card from room service. That was one of three birthday cards I received from the staff during my two-night stay. It was a wonderful way for the staff to go that extra mile, so simple yet so thoughtful. Offering views of the Potsdamer Platz, the spacious junior suite offered plenty of room to roam in the living area, office and bedroom — each sporting a large, flat-screen TV. The marble bathroom not only included an oversized bathtub but also had his and her sinks along with Asprey amenities. The king-sized bed was more than comfortable, and I took full advantage of it, even enjoying a quick nap one afternoon. That is something I rarely do.

◆ For pre-dinner drinks or a nightcap, stop at The Curtain Club and catch the opening ceremony at 6 p.m. each night.

I’m disappointed my schedule didn’t allow me to do so.

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MANDARIN ORIENTAL, TAIPEI Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher

PHOTOS: © MANDARIN ORIENTAL, TAIPEI

Arrival/Check-In: The Mandarin Oriental, Taipei is probably one of my favorite properties and in itself is a destination.

The hotel is located about 40 minutes from Taoyuan International Airport via taxi and about 10 minutes from the city center, where Taipei 101 stands. I have been coming to Taipei my entire career, and the city has changed dramatically. This property is a reflection of the “beautification” of Taipei City.

We arrived and were greeted by the bellhop, who opened our taxi doors and took our luggage. From here we were swiftly taken to reception and then whisked to our room, where we were checked in. My colleague was on the floor above in a similar suite, and I can only say they were spectacular.

Guest Quarters: I was in suite 1227, and from the moment I walked in I felt I must be in one of the most beautiful suites in all of Taipei: tastefully decorated with magnificent chandlers in every room. The door opened to a small hallway and a nifty little butler pantry where I was able to leave my shoes to be shined and clothing to be cleaned and pressed. Butlers access this pantry from outside the room, which adds to a guest’s privacy.

The living area comprised a rather lavish bar (complete with a coffee and tea maker) on the right followed by a dining area with a small, round, marble-topped table. A nice touch at the bar was a full ice bucket at the ready. On the left sat a sofa, chairs and a coffee table which held a chocolate-sculpted room amenity; it looked like

a museum piece but tasted delicious. Bookshelves lined the left wall, and I reviewed some volumes while enjoying a welcome libation.

Through a set of double doors, the beautiful bedroom featured a king-sized bed and a bathroom to die for. Heated floors in the bathroom added the finishing touch to getting everything right, and then some. Views from my room overlooked the front of the property, where a Ferrari car show was taking place. A large dressing room was located at the back and to the left of the bedroom.

Services/Amenities: There is no lack of eateries at the Mandarin, and club guests can partake of the Mandarin Lounge for a complete breakfast and happy hour cocktails at the end of the day. The duck liver pâté was a delicious appetizer with evening drinks. Please stop at the M.O. Bar, where the knowledgeable mixologists provide wonderful entertainment; the staff offered me a taste of Taiwan scotches! Bencotte offers Italian cuisine, and Ya Ge answers your cravings for classic Chinese. Café Un Deux Trois offers contemporary cuisine, and The Jade Lounge serves the city’s best high tea. A host of other restaurants are connected to the hotel and offer many dining options, including a lovely bakery where we purchased a client gift for a meeting.

As we were busy with meetings, we were unable to do everything and must return for the spa. The Mandarin is the place for elaborate Taiwanese weddings, with two ballrooms, one that can seat 1,200 and a smaller one for up to 600.

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TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ Honestly, I wish I were not visiting on business! ◆ The hotel has lovely green pens, which I complimented at checkout. The staff offered me several to take home, and in exchange, I offered a Global Traveler pen as a sign of friendship.

Mandarin Oriental, Taipei 158 Dunhua North Road Taipei 10548 Taiwan tel 886 2 2715 6888 mandarinoriental.com

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RADISSON BLU AQUA HOTEL, CHICAGO Reviewed by Richard Evans

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived at the hotel with a colleague who had never been in Chicago before, and he remarked how windy it was as we exited the cab. I said, “Welcome to Chicago, the Windy City.” It had been an uneventful flight and a relatively quick trip into the city from O’Hare, so we were off to a good start for the two-day visit.

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◆ Among the hotel’s 13 meeting rooms, the Atlantic Ballroom can hold up to 1,650 people.

Services/Amenities: The hotel restaurant and bar is called Filini. We had dinner there on our first night and I ordered the lamb ravioli, which was superb. I highly recommend it.

The hotel is ideal for anyone wanting to keep fit while traveling. The fitness center includes a full gym with lots of cardio machines, a basketball court, a separate yoga room, an outdoor junior Olympic-sized pool and an indoor two-lane lap pool. A lifestyle garden includes a sundeck with a fire pit, a hot tub and cabanas. The sundeck provides partial views of the lake to remind you you are in the heart of Chicago. The hotel also boasts a full spa.

◆ One of the joys of staying at Radisson Blu Aqua Hotel, Chicago is the staff. From the time you enter the hotel to when you depart, they are extremely friendly and accommodating.

Radisson Blu Aqua Hotel, Chicago 221 N. Columbus Drive Chicago, IL 60601 tel 312 565 5258 radissonblu.com

PHOTOS: RADISSON BLU AQUA HOTEL, CHICAGO

Guest Quarters: My King Park View Room had a balcony that I did not go onto since it was windy, in keeping with the city’s nickname, and I am not built like a kite.

It was a corner suite with wall-to-wall windows, giving me a view of the Chicago River to the north and Lake Michigan to the east. Needless to say, it was a cheerful suite. The décor utilized a sleek, minimalist design with light blue accents and blond wood floors, creating a calming space.

A separate workspace off the entrance hall included a generously sized desk with several desk-height outlets.

This area also included the minibar, above which a small, flat-screen TV was mounted. The bedroom included the king-sized bed, a dresser that held a flat-screen TV, an easy chair and a coffee table. The bathroom offered a separate tub and shower with rain showerhead.

◆ The hotel is ideally located within easy walking distance — or a short cab ride — to the Magnificent Mile, Millennium Park with the iconic “Bean,” the Art Institute of Chicago, Navy Pier and Lollapalooza, the preeminent music festival in the United States. It is also convenient to the financial district and downtown.

one on one

JAYSON GOH will create a fast-paced and more efficient experience for passengers.

readily available and revolve around putting our passengers at the heart of all we do.

Best career advice you’ve received: Treat your people well. An organization is successful when everyone has a common goal. If your people trust and like each other, you can overcome any challenge.

Tell our readers about Changi’s dining options. With 120 dining options across our three terminals, our offerings appeal to passengers of diverse profiles and preferences, from premium dining to local cuisine. You can try the world’s first 24/7 halal-certified Hello Kitty café or enjoy a Singapore Sling at the Long Bar by Raffles at DFS. We ensure everyone has the opportunity to taste and dine; even time-pressed travelers have options, as every restaurant within the transit area offers a 15-minute quick meal.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field?

Keep an open mind. Embrace the journey and its changing technology; otherwise, you will be left behind. Past achievements do not guarantee future success.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: My best travel memories revolve around nature and its changing beauty. My favorite is admiring the beautiful desert sunrise while backpacking in Egypt.

Name: Jayson Goh Title: Managing director, airport operations management Company, city: Changi Airport, Singapore Number of employees: Changi Airport Group has 1,800; the airport community has 50,000.

Recent project: In January we kicked off a SGD50 million [about $36 million] project with the Singapore Economic Development Board called Changi Airport Living Lab Programme, collaborating with innovation-driven companies and startups to develop and demonstrate new technology solutions in a live airport environment.

First job: Singapore Economic Development Board, for 15 years Little-known fact about you: In junior college I was on the canoe

team, and we paddled around the island of Singapore for three days, an amazing experience that grew my appreciation for nature while testing my physical strength and mental endurance.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years?

The global airports landscape is evolving rapidly. Technology is already changing airport operations, first with the evolution of self-service offerings through the deployment of kiosks and automated solutions, and next with location-based services to reach and serve passengers even before they arrive. The third major change is the use of AI or robotics, which

One travel tip you cannot live without: Travel light, rest well and eat well.

Best advice for business travelers: Embrace the lifestyle and continue your everyday activities like eating, exercising and resting while traveling.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can premium travelers expect when arriving or transiting at Changi Airport? Passengers can experience the elements of Changi Airport in a stress-free, positively surprising and personalized way.

They have as many options as an airport can possibly offer, ranging from our natural gardens like the sunflower and butterfly gardens, high-end retail therapy, taking a dip in the swimming pool and hitting the gym. All these amenities are

What can we expect from Changi in the next few years? We are optimistic about the future and see exciting opportunities ahead. Changi Airport has always built ahead for future capacity, and we are working on major infrastructure projects that will not only enhance our capacity for future growth but continue to strengthen our appeal as a major global air hub.

A good example is the development of an iconic mixed-use complex in front of Terminal 1 called Jewel Changi Airport, a world-class, signature lifestyle destination to open in 2019. Sitting at the heart of Changi Airport and linked to terminals 1–3, it will boast the world’s tallest indoor waterfall along with entertainment and retail experiences.

Terminal 4 will turn operational in the second half of this year to serve both full-service and low-cost carriers with a full suite of passenger amenities. Terminal 5 will be ready near the end of the next decade, along with a third runway operational in the early 2020s. Overall, visitors can expect more new experiences, greater excitement and world-class entertainment and shopping as they come through Changi Airport’s doors.

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PHOTO: © CHANGI AIRPORT

Managing Director, Airport Operations Management, Changi Airport

one on one

FRANCO TEDESCHI Regional Vice President, American Airlines

Best career advice you’ve received: The bigger the risk, the bigger the reward. Step forward and walk the path others haven’t.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Be willing to keep an open mind. Attract talent and retain talent. It’s about the journey. Create an environment where employees want to come to work.

Name: Franco Tedeschi Title: Regional vice president Company, city: American Airlines; Chicago, Ill. Number of employees: 120,000 overall for American Airlines and 10,000 strong in Chicago Recent project: Construction projects at Chicago O’Hare International Airport and the launch of new routes

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First job: As a waiter to help pay for college, I served the likes of Telly Savalas and Sofia Loren. I joined flight operations with American Airlines in 1990.

Little-known fact about you: I’ve lived in 10 places in the United States, Europe and Asia, and I speak four languages; I’ll master Japanese before I die.

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AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: My honeymoon in Tahiti, exploring the small, untouched parts of the islands.

We stayed in a hotel based on a recommendation, but it ended up not being everything we anticipated. Imagine my surprise when, five years later, the owner appeared where I was in France.

One travel tip you cannot live without: Only pack what you need; pack light. I cannot travel without my iPad, phone and a car magazine.

Best advice for business travelers: It’s all about convenience and ease of passage. Sign up for Global Entry; get an Admirals Club membership.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can premium travelers expect from AA’s new service to Barcelona?

Our flagship Boeing 787-8 offers lie-flat seats, WiFi capabilities, an extensive media library and convenient departure times, leaving ORD at 10:05 p.m. and BCN at 1:40 p.m. Premium travelers can enjoy the nine-hour, 50-minute flight in ultimate comfort.

Tell our readers about the airline’s sponsorship deal with the World Series Champion Chicago Cubs. Our threeyear partnership is a great way to engage our employees; we host events for them, we go to games, we bring events to the airport. And I must say, the members of the Chicago Cubs are extremely generous with their time. The Cubs are dedicated to the community, and the partnership brings together the airline and the community in a meaningful way.

What other services can travelers look forward to from Chicago and around the United States? Chicago is an incredibly important market, and we need to have a presence here. This summer we launched 10 new destinations, and we recently opened new gates at O’Hare, the first to open in 20 years. Five new gates are coming in spring 2018. Beyond this growth, expect even more!

PHOTO: © AMERICAN AIRLINES

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years?

Technology will continue to be ever-present and create a seamless travel experience, so you’ll see continued significant investment in this area. At the airline, we innovate through our 17,000-square-foot lounge at ORD and through new aircraft deliveries. We are taking deliveries every five days and will have the youngest fleet in the industry this year.

WE CALL IT PREMIUM ECONOMY

YOU CALL IT THE SEAT YOU’VE BEEN WAITING FOR With wider seats, noise-reducing headphones and sleeping amenities, you’ve got all the ingredients to arrive at your destination feeling refreshed. exploreamerican.com/pe

American Airlines and the Flight Symbol logo are marks of American Airlines, Inc. oneworld is a mark of the oneworld Alliance, LLC. © 2017 American Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.

technology

NEW AND IMPROVED Reinvention brings technology up to date. BY AKHIL KALEPU HULU LIVE TV Cord cutting is getting more attractive, especially with the implementation of live TV, the last obstacle for sports fans and news junkies. Hulu Live TV is available all over the United States, but local channels are currently limited to certain areas. It includes many of the staples like CNN, ESPN and Bravo, but certain networks like AMC, Comedy Central and HBO aren’t offered. The $40 subscription fee also gets you 50 hours of storage to Hulu’s cloud DVR and access to the site’s extensive on-demand catalog. Extra features like no commercials and unlimited screens are available for an additional $4–20. $40/month. hulu.com/live-tv

SONY PS-HX500 USB turntables aren’t often considered hi-fi. Sony’s PSHX500 is one of the exceptions.

Vinyl is in the midst of a resurgence, and many records come with a link for digital downloads, but some enthusiasts prefer an analog mix to digital. The PS-HX500 solves this with a hybrid setup, playing vinyl through high-quality circuitry that simultaneously records to a high-resolution digital file. There are better decks out there, but they’re also more expensive, and the extra cash is better spent on a new cartridge. If you like its minimalist design, this is a reliable turntable to crown your listening room while digitizing your collection for the road. $399.99. sony.com

ANOVA PRECISION COOKER Anyone who wants an easier way to do gourmet cooking needs the Anova Precision Cooker — essentially a water boiler that clips to a pot, allowing you to cook sous vide in a precise and efficient manner. Sous vide is a technique in which you fill a plastic bag with your ingredients and slow-cook them in boiling water. The result is a dish that retains all of its juices and flavor; the only thing left is to crisp it up a bit on the grill. This culinary tradition has been around for a while, but the Anova Precision Cooker allows you to automate the time and temperature, making gourmet meals even easier to prepare. The updated model has a better clamp that fits in a larger variety of pots. Other features include a circulation fan to move the hot water around and a laboratory-grade thermometer. $145. anovaculinary.com

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Touch screens are the norm for smartphones, but they don’t compare to the tactile feel of typing on a real keyboard, which is why many in the business community were hesitant to ditch the BlackBerrys of yore. Enter the KEYone, the company’s revamped phone designed to compete with Apple and Samsung. You get a full QWERTY keyboard underneath a 4.5-inch, 1620x1080 LCD touch screen. It’s not quite suited for reading articles, but people who spend a lot of time writing emails will appreciate the space on the display afforded by placing a physical keyboard below. The lower portion of the face can also act as a trackpad for your screen, recalling the original trackball BlackBerry for which BlackBerry was famous. $549, preorder. blackberrymobile.com

PHOTOS: © ANOVA, © HULU, © SONY, © BLACKBERRY

BLACKBERRY KEYONE

wine & spirits

HUNGARIAN RHAPSODY

PHOTO: © CHÂTEAU DERESZLA

The Furmint grape produces delightful dry white wines. BY EUNICE FRIED

ASK WINE FANS ABOUT Tokaji and they will gladly talk about Hungary’s famous sweet white wine. Ask them about Furmint and most will have a quizzical look. Tell them it is the white grape that makes sweet Tokaji and they will nod. Add that Furmint also produces a lovely dry wine and nearly all will be surprised.

Yes, there is a dry Furmint, and it is beginning to bring new fame to the Furmint grape. For centuries, Hungary made sweet Tokaji from the grape that reaped well-deserved, international fame. In the last 20 years — and particularly since the year 2000, when two winemakers created a wine called Úrágya Furmint — the modern version of dry Furmint was born. A fine, quality wine, it surprised and pleased tasters with its complexity, acidity and fine structure. Balanced acidity is one of the most important characteristics of a wine, with its refreshing quality adding to the appeal of its taste and also a major factor in helping it to age well. And now, with their growing recognition, many dry Furmints are available in the United States. Prices are approximate and will vary.

Outstanding among them is Château Dereszla 2014 ($15), a light yellow-shaded, medium-bodied wine rich with fresh fruit flavors, luxuriant hints of flowers and spice and a refreshing acidity that keeps it tantalizing. It is a delicious wine.

Basilicus Mestervölgy Furmint 2015 ($28) possesses a lively acidity that gives it a flinty edge, and its taste echoes in its long finish.

Pale in color with crisp acidity and a gentle palate, Majoros Deák Furmint 2013 ($22) is especially tasty.

Try Somlói Vándor Furmint 2015 ($24) for a fullbodied wine with good acidity and a medium-long finish.

Also full-bodied, Barta Öreg Király Furmint 2013 ($39) offers great minerality and brims with enticing acidity.

Degenfeld Furmint Dry 2015 ($18) is water-clear, medium-dry and rich in floral flavors that linger into the finish.

Holdvölgy Vision Furmint 2013 ($24), almost as pale as water, presents lovely, delicate floral flavors.

Another especially pale-shaded wine, Kvaszinger Hatalos Furmint 2015 ($27) belies its look with a pronounced flavorful taste reminiscent of flowers. It follows with a long finish.

has Hungary cres 13,000 a o planted t Furmint.

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spoils

FASHION TAKES FLIGHT Soar with your own personal style this fall. BY PATRICK T. COOPER AND TERRY A. SPRUNGER EAGLES FLY SOLO, and this fall season is your time to thrust beyond the formation of the flock. Private, elite, first class or perhaps strolling down Park Avenue, it’s time to spread your wings and take flight. Basic is boring — we all deserve a bit of excitement and the opportunity to revel in our success. Spend a little and spoil yourself; no sense working so hard without reward. Look no further: New heights in style begin now.

CHRISTOPHE CLARET We just can’t resist great timepieces. Lucky for you we won’t stop, just like the hands of time. Jump on our bandwagon and spoil your wrist with this beautifully designed work of art

by Claret. From $68,000.

HILTON HOLLIS No need for turbulent romance, but we all want a bit of Margaret Mitchell’s Gone With the Wind drama in our style. Designer Hilton Hollis will have you carried away and running with the wind with this beautiful assortment of colorful scarves. Perfect and splendidly designed, the flirty feminine appeal of this brilliant accessory will heighten your ensemble. Prices vary. hiltonhollis.com

HONMA GOLF Make the golf balls soar! Only the best clubs will do for you on the greens. President Trump carries Honma — need we say more? You may not have Tiger Woods’ swing, but you can certainly have the swag. Give your companions something to talk about the next time you hit the links.

From $5,000. honmagolfusa.com

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L.K. BENNETT A trench coat is classic, and it is always amazing to find a newly designed interpretation of an accomplished silhouette. This one in blush suede will have you flying high off to your next appointment.

The statement of suede sophistication is perfect for saying good-bye to summer and hello to fall in grand style. $1,695. lkbennett.com

PHOTOS: © HYUNA SHIN, CREATIVE SHIN STUDIO, © CHRISTOPHE CLARET, © HONMA GOLF, © L.K. BENNETT

christopheclaret.com

RAG POETS Be a Grecian goddess, or at least channel the thought process. Let’s face it, denim is now the new black dress.

Mix and match the Santorini Denim Dress and infuse yet another divine staple into your wardrobe. This investment will accommodate you for day or night, casual or chic, and makes the perfect addition to your global lifestyle. $84.

PHOTOS: © RAG POETS, © JESSICA ROBINSON JEWELRY, © JESUS HERNANDEZ @IAI0X, © EMILY SCHULTZ AND SOCIAL LITE COMMUNICATIONS, © AWE INSPIRED

ragpoetsclothing.com

JESSICA ROBINSON JEWELRY Every king or queen deserves a crown. Artisan Jessica Robinson will adorn your head with a level of elegance befitting royalty. Take your stance with these wings accompanied by rare stones to make you sparkle. The whole room will concentrate on you. From $40,000. facebook.com/JessicaRJewelry

NAYIBE WARCHAUSKY JEWELRY Now that we pointed you in the right direction, you will find Nayibe Warchausky on your index finger for the gala, soirée or fabulous night out on the town. We simply could not pick one, so we offer you two.

Glitter and sparkle have a new zip code, and you are the real estate. Join the fun — your investment will yield great rewards. nwarchausky.com

PURA BOTANICALS Flying can be brutal. In order to maintain that youthful glow, spoil yourself with the Overnight Watermelon Mask by Pura Botanicals. This perfect concoction gently removes dead skin cells to leave your skin fresh for the next travel segment, restoring a natural, brilliant glow to your face. $64. purabotanicals.com

AWE INSPIRED True, 14 karat yellow gold never gets old. Express your resilience, renewal and self-empowerment and prepare to soar with the AWE Inspired charm bracelet. Simple yet intriguing, this arm candy mixes precious metals with peridot to make your confidence fly. $1,900. aweinspired.com

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spas

HEALTHY INCENTIVES Relax and recharge at The Peninsula Chicago Spa. BY KIMBERLY KROL

TAKE FIVE:

Relaxation room PHOTO: © THE PENINSULA CHICAGO

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A SPA VISIT TOUTS MANY health benefits for the patron — including stress relief, elimination of physical symptoms, a relaxed mind — so it only makes sense those same attributes, and others, can be extremely beneficial when carried over into the workplace. According to a 2016 Forbes.com article, findings from years of research show treatments can help spark creativity, boost the immune system, increase productivity and improve sleep habits. Armed with this important data, GT associate publisher Carly Allen and I decided to book afternoon spa treatments at The Peninsula Chicago on a recent business trip to the Windy City. It’s work, after all.

While we weren’t sacrificing for the greater good of the company, after a packed business trip and the effects of travel, taking a few moments of Zen and finding balance were overall beneficial for the rest of our trip, our brain power and our workflow the following week.

The Peninsula Chicago is one of my favorite hotels in Chicago,

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and I’m always happy to find any reason to visit. On past visits I’ve stayed in the newly renovated guestrooms, sampled the Chinese food at the award-winning Shanghai Terrace, stopped in to check out the gorgeous Christmas decorations and enjoyed many an after-dinner drink at The Bar. This was my first time indulging at The Peninsula Spa, which I glimpsed on previous visits to the hotel’s state-of-the-art and well-equipped fitness center. With my first visit in the books, I can safely say the spa is my new favorite reason to return.

The relaxation starts immediately upon checking into the serene, darkened and calming reception area. We were given a quick tour of the locker room facilities, and I was pleased to see shelves of robes and slippers available in alternate sizes. I selected a robe two sizes larger to really snuggle into. Despite the timing of our early May visit, there was still quite a chill in the air in Chicago, and it felt luxurious to envelope myself in the warmth of the robe.

The calm continued when we made our way to the relaxation area, where cushioned loungers awaited. The seats, dressed like beds with plush comforters, turned down on one side, beckoned us. I took full advantage, cocooning myself with the blanket and thumbing through a magazine while I waited for my therapist.

Carly was scheduled for the Sattva Vedic Aromatherapy Massage, one of the spa’s more popular lines with an emphasis on Marma therapy, an ancient Indian practice. Reflecting the Vedic philosophy of purity, the Sattva by Simply Peninsula collection features eight treatments, rituals and wellness journeys crafted to combine Ayurveda methods with contemporary massage techniques. Australian brand Subtle Energies crafted the products used, a blend of active ingredients including oils, Himalayan crystal salts, clays and herbs. Carly was able to select the oil blend and salts used in her 60-minute treatment with the guidance of her masseuse.

In the Sattva Vedic Aromatherapy Massage, Marma therapy and lymphatic techniques help balance the chi while strengthening the body’s muscles and joints — an experience Carly dubbed, “a soothing massage perfect after a day of meetings.”

Other Sattva by Simply Peninsula treatments include Khushali Reviving Signature Journey, Tulasi Detox Signature Journey, Podi Signature Journey, Vedic Aromatherapy Full Body and Facial Marma Massage, Khushali Himalayan Crystal Salt

Scrub, Tulasi Detox Body Polish and Sattva Shirodhara with Facial Marma Therapy.

I opted for the Biologique Recherche Healthy Glow Facial, utilizing a product line introduced at the spa earlier this year.

The brand’s methodology boasts a reputation for astounding effectiveness based on a clinical approach and intentionally pure, concentrated, raw ingredients. The active ingredients are perfume-free and cold formulated at laboratories in Paris. I can attest to the line’s effectiveness, as my skin was smooth, blemishfree and glowing for weeks post-treatment.

My favorite part of my 60-minute facial was the cold mask.

While it was initially a shock to the system, it felt great as my body adjusted and the therapist used massage balls to ease the ingredients into my skin. Overall, the Healthy Glow Facial begins with a personalized skin analysis followed by deep cleansing and exfoliation. A personalized manual lift technique is used, and a customized mask is designed depending on skin type.

Other treatments available using Biologique Recherche products include the European Deep Cleansing Facial, the Remodeling Facial, the Second Skin Facial, the CRYO 3R Facial, the Triple Lift Luxury Facial and the Gentleman’s Facial.

Next time you visit Chicago, do yourself (and your job!) a favor: Indulge in the signature treatments offered at The Peninsula Spa. You won’t regret it, and you’ll be feeling the benefits before you leave the treatment room.

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FACE TIME:

Facial treatment PHOTO: © THE PENINSULA CHICAGO

The Peninsula Spa The Peninsula Chicago 108 E. Superior St. Chicago, IL 60611 tel 312 573 6860 peninsula.com

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2017 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

AIRLINE BEST Overall Best Airline in the World____________________________________________ Airline Alliance___________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type _____________________________________________________________ Airline Website __________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline – Trans-Pacific_______________________________________ Best Airline for . . .

Business Class_______________________________________________________

International First Class________________________________________________

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Onboard Service _____________________________________________________

Flight Attendants_____________________________________________________

Flight Attendant Uniforms _____________________________________________

Airline Cuisine________________________________________________________ Security_____________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design____________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design _______________________________________________ Best New Airline Service Launch___________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs

Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program____________________________________

Elite-Level Program___________________________________________________

Bonus Promotion_____________________________________________________

Award Redemption___________________________________________________

Customer Service ____________________________________________________

BEST AIRLINE BY LOCATION Best Airline in . . .

Africa_______________________________________________________________

Australia and New Zealand_____________________________________________

Central/South Asia and India __________________________________________ China_______________________________________________________________

Eastern Europe_______________________________________________________ Europe______________________________________________________________ Mexico______________________________________________________________

The Middle East _____________________________________________________

North America________________________________________________________

North Asia (excluding China)___________________________________________

The South Pacific_____________________________________________________ To South America and Central America______________________________________ To Japan_________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline______________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline_______________________________________________________

AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World____________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents__________________________________________________ Airport Dining____________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping _________________________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . .

Asia________________________________________________________________ Africa_______________________________________________________________ Europe______________________________________________________________

The Middle East______________________________________________________ Best Airport in . . .

Asia_________________________________________________________________ Africa_______________________________________________________________ Europe______________________________________________________________

The Middle East______________________________________________________

North America________________________________________________________

South America_______________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST

International Hotel Chain_________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain___________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel__________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel ____________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Club Floor________________________________________________________ Hotel Website__________________________________________________________ New Luxury Hotel in Asia _______________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs

Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World_____________________________

Elite-Level Program_________________________________________________

Bonus Promotion___________________________________________________

Award Redemption_________________________________________________

Customer Service___________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . .

Asia_______________________________________________________________ Europe____________________________________________________________

South Korea________________________________________________________

The Middle East____________________________________________________

The United States __________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . .

Asia_______________________________________________________________ Europe____________________________________________________________

Latin America______________________________________________________ Mexico____________________________________________________________

The Middle East____________________________________________________

OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program ______________________________________________ Rental Car Company____________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_____________________________________________________ MICE City _____________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service___________________________________________________________ Wireless Phone Service in the World______________________________________ Noise-Canceling Headset Brand__________________________________________ Luggage Brand_________________________________________________________ Photographic Brand_____________________________________________________ Ride Share_____________________________________________________________ Hotel App______________________________________________________________ Airline App_____________________________________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card_________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card _________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events __________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program____________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________ Promotions________________________________________________________ Benefits___________________________________________________________ Redemptions_______________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card________________________________________ Promotions________________________________________________________ Benefits___________________________________________________________ Redemptions_______________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card______________________________________ Rental Car Affinity Card__________________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone

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golf

ON THE BANKS OF THE ZAMBEZI Wild game roams freely along the course at Elephant Hills. BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

PLAYING THROUGH:

Hole 14 fairway PHOTO: © FRANCIS X GALLAGHER

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THE ELEPHANT HILLS GOLF COURSE lies directly behind the Elephant Hills Hotel and first opened for play in 1974. South African professional golfer Gary Player, known for his “walk through” golf swing, designed the course. When the course opened, it measured more than 9,200 yards from the tips and was considered one of the most challenging courses in the world.

In 1977 a consuming fire — caused by a rocket launched from the Zambian side of the Zambezi River during the Rhodesian wars — destroyed the Elephant Hills Hotel. The attack happened the day after the Elephant Hills Golf Classic, and fortunately most guests had vacated the property the day before. The destruction of the hotel caused the course to fall into disrepair; by 1987 trees, some more than 16 feet tall, grew in the middle of the fairways, and the animal population, including root-seeking warthogs, had their way with the greens.

In 1989 the hotel was rebuilt; at the same time, the course was

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refurbished and the yardage tamed to a shorter 6,780 yards. The course reopened Feb. 1, 1992, with nine holes to play, with the balance completed by the end of that month. The fairways are seeded with Bermuda grass from South Africa, and the greens are Tiff Dwarf from plugs donated by the Triangle Country Club in Zimbabwe, near the Mozambique border. All the vegetation is indigenous to the region, and there is a natural game path just beyond the fence around the course. From the course you can see impala, waterbuck, kudu, warthogs, vervet monkeys and baboons, along with a host of exotic birds. At times you can even see elephants just outside the fence. Hotel guests can merely walk to the back of the property and tee off on the first hole in a matter of minutes.

HOLE 4 | 543 yards, par 5 Elephant Walk

Coming off an inconsistent start — carding a double bogey, par

and single bogey on holes 1, 2 and 3 — I tried to settle into a more consistent rhythm. Unfortunately, my driver was not of the same mindset, and I landed on the right rough with a difficult second shot before me. My caddie (Polite was his name) suggested I take the 3-wood and hit the ball back in play. I nailed a great shot, still favoring the right side and rough.

My approach shot required I clear a herd of grazing impala and a bunker. Fortunately, with Polite’s encouragement, I hit the shot of the day, landing squarely in place for a birdie putt, which I unfortunately missed!

HOLE 14 | 384 yards, par 4 Rippling Water

Polite warmed me to stay way left of the right side of the fairway, as a stream runs the entire length and turns in front of the green, forming a small pond. The hole is designed as a slight dogleg right with the water as the main hazard. I teed up with all the right intentions, but my ball sliced (I put the blame on my rental set) and luckily hit a palm tree, dropping within play.

From here I had another calamity, hitting the ball but still on the right and landing on the embankment to the water, in the rough. Polite immediately suggested a 9-iron to lift the ball out and onto the green. I was reluctant, spotting a large tree I had to sail over, but rather than laying up, I felt Polite knew my game by now and swung away. The ball lifted out perfectly and flew over the tree, landing left of the pin. Polite lined up my putt, which was at least 20 feet, and I nailed it in the back of the cup for par. A sloppy par, for sure, but a par nonetheless!

HOLE 15 | 174 yards, par 3 The Baobab

A tree sits in the front of the green’s path from the tee box, which can be a little intimidating. In addition, a “crocodile pond” sits on the right side of the hole and extends in front of the right side of the green. Polite simply placed a 5-iron in my hand and said, “Attack the pin!” I took his advice with the Tight Lies rental set and launched into a beautiful shot, landing on the back side of the left portion of the green.

“Excellent shot!” said Polite. As we approached, we frightened some warthogs that were rooting around on the club’s prized Tiff Dwarf greens. I nearly birdied the putt, resulting in a par

for the card.

WALK ON THE WILD SIDE:

HOLE 18 | 419 yards, par 4 Lion’s Claw

Eighteen is a dramatic finishing hole, as the hotel sits proudly on a hill just beyond the green, along with the greenside restaurant where I anticipated celebrating my round of golf.

But first I had to finish the challenge and take on Gary Player’s final hole at Elephant Hills. Polite handed me the driver and suggested I land my ball favoring the left side of the fairway.

Unfortunately, I sent my drive sailing into the trees on the right side just short of a pond. Fortunately, the tree roots kept me safe from the water, but this meant I had to take a 7-iron and knock a low shot back into play. I did this successfully and landed 150 yards short of the green in the rough but in a perfect lie. Polite offered me an 8-iron and told me, “Attack the green — you can still get par!” With his encouragement, I sent the 8-iron onto the ball, launching it high in the air right for the center of the green. “Good shot, sir,” said Polite.

As we walked to the green, Polite shared his caddie history at Elephant Hills — seven years — and I could not have had a better man navigate me around the course. I lined up the putt and just missed the cup, a decent bogey, considering my drive.

I paid and tipped Polite and sat at the restaurant, enjoying a Zambezi Lager and a croque-monsieur and pommes frites while I watched the foursomes who followed me complete their rounds. We played 18 holes in two and a half hours, perfect

AUGUST 2017

Warthogs at Hole 15 PHOTO: © FRANCIS X GALLAGHER

Elephant Hills Golf Club Elephant Hills Hotel 300 Park Way Drive Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe tel 263 213 284 4793 elephanthillshotel.com

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chefs

FRESH PERSPECTIVE Lydia Forte leaves her culinary mark at Rocco Forte Hotels. BY KIMBERLY KROL

MAYBE IT’S IN HER BLOOD? Lydia Forte, daughter of Sir Rocco Forte and niece of Olga Polizzi, makes her mark in the family business as bar and restaurant development manager for Rocco Forte Hotels, responsible for the concepts, management and performance of the group’s restaurants.

According to Forte, there are some elements which make all the difference that the brand will never compromise on in the hotels. Forte’s dream is to have at least an herb garden in every hotel. Verdura, in Sicily, boasts an organic farm, and at hotels without space for gardens, like Balmoral in Edinburgh, they produce their own smoked salmon and honey. Personal touches like these and an eye for quality create a stand-out culinary experience across the brand.

Prior to joining Rocco Forte Hotels in February 2014, Forte managed the opening of The Markham Inn in Chelsea and led projects to improve HIX Mayfair in London and Bocconi in Brussels. She worked her way up in the industry, from front-of-house positions to accounting and reservations, and also completed a professional cookery class at Leith’s, a four-month internship at Hotel Astoria in St. Petersburg and maître d’ training at The Wolseley.

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WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? Fulvio Pierangelini, our creative director of food at Rocco Forte Hotels. He is an exceptional chef — few people can create food like his. When you go to his apartment, he might have a few vegetables and somehow, with what seems like nothing, he will conjure up a meal of dreams within a few seconds.

The few fantastic female chefs who have broken into the world of cuisine also inspire me; there are not enough of them. Being a chef is an incredibly tough job with terrible hours, constant pressure, hot kitchens … and few make it to the top — but being a female chef is even harder. We want more female chefs in the world!

WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE, AND HOW? Fulvio Pierangelini. I have traveled and worked with him in our hotels for more than four years, and he has taught me so much about food. Doing the classics in the best way possible is the hardest

thing in the culinary world. Some say he’s like a food whisperer. He has taught me so much about practical things.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? It is hard to pick one! London, Barcelona. I’m excited to visit Tokyo for the first time next year. I love all Italian cities for their regional cuisines; Italian food is the best in the world. I love our restaurant, Le Jardin de Russie at Hotel de Russie in Rome. We offer delicious Roman cuisine in our stunning Roman garden, right in the center of the city, and you can’t get a better sense of the city than that. It inspired me to keep to the Roman theme in our new hotel in Rome, Hotel de la Ville, opening next year. All the cities I visit inspire me in some way. Los Angeles inspired me because it was at the forefront of vegan and healthy food development.

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? Going back to basics — extremely high-quality, simple food; excellent service; good atmosphere. It’s always fun to experience new cuisines and restaurants that offer something different, but people will always come back to quality.

I also love that Asian and Middle Eastern styles of sharing food have become mainstream, as I love being able to try a little bit of lots of things.

Healthy, vegetarian and vegan offerings are a craze and will continue because we understand the importance of feeling good in today’s world.

Luxury is treating your body and our world well. Following this trend, my sister, Irene, and I developed Rocco Forte Nourish, partnering with local nutritionists to develop healthy menus.

ROCCO FORTE HOTELS roccofortehotels.com

PHOTO: © ROCCO FORTE HOTELS

WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? I live in London, which has become one of — if not the — centers for culinary excellence in the world. There has been a food revolution here in the last 10 to 15 years, with hundreds of new concepts constantly opening.

What I find unique in London is the number of high-quality restaurants that last. There are several places I would be happy to visit every week for the rest of my life, which I don’t find as much in other cities. Restaurants with extremely high-quality food, service and ambience, such as The River Café, stand the test of time, are authentic and offer an all-around world-class and exceptional experience. Those are the restaurants that truly inspire me and that we aim to emulate.

cruising

LEGACY AT SEA On Cunard’s voyages, Britannia still rules the waves. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

NO MODERN CRUISE LINE can match Cunard Line’s legacy at sea, dating back to 1840 and its trans-Atlantic steamboat days. Cunard operated the first passenger ship lit by electricity, the first with an indoor swimming pool and the first to offer an around-the-world voyage, in 1922. During World War II, its ocean liners transported more than 2 million service personnel, prompting Churchill to credit Cunard with shortening the war by a full year. Cunard was not only the first line to carry passengers on regularly scheduled trans-Atlantic passages, but today it is the only cruise line to do so.

Cunard’s crossings as well as its other voyages are distinguished by its traditional British cruising style, focusing on the elegance and mystique of ocean travel. Jackets are required even on informal nights. Professional librarians staff vast onboard libraries. Nannies attend to the kids. “Gentlemen Dance Hosts” abound. Cunard’s vessels are designed as ocean liners with Edwardian- and Victorian-inspired interiors, not as contemporary cruising ships. In keeping with the old-fashioned, more leisurely style, Cunard passengers can expect a lineup of renowned lecturers, Shakespearean actors, West End theatrical performers and a full scones-and-clotted-cream afternoon tea in the Queens Room, complete with Cunard’s renowned White Star service.

Cunard’s three ships, the Queen Victoria,Queen Elizabeth and Queen Mary 2, each carry slightly more than 2,000 passengers.

The largest, Queen Mary 2, accommodates just half as many passengers as today’s mega-ships, but it is nearly as long and almost as heavy. That means there’s ample space for everything one would need on a trans-Atlantic or world cruise, from the world’s largest floating bookshop and library to the first full-scale planetarium at sea — not to mention the industry’s only pet lodgings, featuring two kennel masters, an exercise area and room service.

Cunard delivers a formal but leisurely luxury cruise experience, a rarity these days, but the line is introducing new itineraries in a push to expand its passenger base to include more Americans, Canadians and Australians. While Cunard has scheduled 22 seven-night trans-Atlantic cruises in 2018, the newly expanded Queen Elizabeth will be dispatched first to Australia and Japan for the cherry blossom season and then, for the summer of 2019, to Alaska, where Cunard has not ventured in more than 20 years. Meanwhile, passengers can book a special Voyage du Vin on the Queen Victoria departing June 1, 2018, for tastings of Iberian wines; A Journey of Genealogy trans-Atlantic crossing on the Queen Mary 2 Nov. 4, 2018, with Ancestry.com on board; or, if you’re quick, a Dec. 8, 2017, QM2 trans-Atlantic crossing with The New York Times’ puzzle editors celebrating the 75th anniversary of the NYT’s own version of the crossword puzzle.

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LUXURY LINERS:

Britannia in Boston (top left), Queen Mary (right), and Carpathia (bottom left) PHOTOS: © CUNARD LINE

n five One i rants immig to the came tes d Sta e t i n U unard on a C liner.

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Wines on the Wing 2017 GT presents the winners of the 13th annual Wines on the Wing airline wine competition.

BY EUNICE FRIED | PHOTOS BY GLOBAL TRAVELER

CITY WINERY IS JUST WHAT its name says: a working winery in the heart of a city — New York City, in fact. Opened in 2009 by wine enthusiast Michael Dorf, it offers the rare urban setting where wine lovers can make their own wine from grapes chief winemaker David Lecomte selects in California, New York state, Oregon and Argentina. They can bottle their

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wine and add custom labels. They can attend wine and food courses, wine tastings, wine seminars and wine dinners. And they can celebrate the joy of it all with music programs in the evening in City Winery’s adjoining large social space.

So successful has the concept become, Dorf now has a City Winery in Chicago, Nashville and Atlanta and is scheduled to open one in Boston in September.

And so, what more appropriate place to hold a wine competition than at the working winery within City Winery? And that is just where Global Traveler hosted its 13th annual Wines on the Wing International Airline Wine Competition.

Seated amid tanks and winemaking equipment, 21 judges examined wines from 25 countries and three American states — California, New York and Washington — sampling wine currently being served on international first- and business-class airline flights throughout the world and, in a smaller, third, North American category, wines served on first- and business-class flights beginning and ending in North America.

The judges, all wine professionals, were served the wines in numbered glasses and told only the general type they were to taste — Pinot Noir or

Sauvignon Blanc, for example. They swirled, they sniffed, they tasted and, using their expertise and experience, rated each wine.

When all the wines were tasted and the results tallied, the airline whose wines added up to the highest overall score among first-class entries was awarded gold for Best International First-Class Wines on the Wing. That airline was Asiana Airlines. The South Korea-based airline’s Chardonnay and both of its red wines earned gold and silver in their categories, while its Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs scored well among the Champagne winners.

“We’re proud to be the 2017 winner of the Wines on the Wing First Class category,” said Ja-Joon Goo, executive vice president, Asiana Airlines. “At Asiana we strive to provide our passengers with the best quality of flight and comfort, and that philosophy translates down to the fine details such as the wine we feature on our flights.

“In order to showcase the diverse network of cultures we connect through our airline, we select wines not only from the classic vineyards of Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne but also from America, Australia, South Africa, Chile, Argentina and New Zealand. We want our passengers to feel as though they are dining on fine cuisine and

drinking fine wine at a top-rated restaurant.”

And how much does its wine program cost the airline? Wines poured in first class come to $300,000 a year, while the annual cost for its business-class wines is about $1.8 million.

Asiana opens about 210,000 bottles of wine annually on its firstand business-class international flights. Almost 45,000 of those bottles are Champagne. In both classes, the airline has almost twice as many calls for red wines as it does for white wines.

Asiana, established in 1988 and today one of South Korea’s two major airlines, flies to 65 cities in 23 countries.

British Airways earned silver among International First-Class Wines, and United reaped bronze, followed by high-scoring Singapore Airlines and American Airlines.

Air Canada won gold for the fine showing of its wines in International Business-Class Wines. “We’re thrilled our business-class wines scored highly in Global Traveler magazine’s 2017 Wines on the Wing airline competition,” said Andrew Yiu, managing director, product design, Air Canada. “Along with Véronique Rivest, our internationally acclaimed sommelier, we strive to bring our customers great wines

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE TOP FIVE INTERNATIONAL FIRST-CLASS WINES ON THE WING Gold Asiana Airlines Silver British Airways Bronze United Airlines 4.

Singapore Airlines 5.

American Airlines

TOP FIVE INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS-CLASS WINES ON THE WING Gold Air Canada Silver Brussels Airlines Bronze TAP Portugal 4. airberlin 5.

Aeroflot

TOP FIVE CHAMPAGNES INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS Gold Joseph Perrier Brut Cuvée

Royale 2004 (United Airlines) Silver Taittinger Brut Millésime

2008 (American Airlines) Bronze Dom Perignon 2006

(Singapore Airlines) 4.

Barons de Rothschild

Blanc de Blancs, NV

(Asiana Airlines) 5.

Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle,

Grande Cuvée, NV

(British Airways)

TOP FIVE CHAMPAGNES INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS Gold Ayala Brut Majeur, NV

(Aeroflot) Silver Collet Brut Art Déco, NV

(All Nippon Airlines) Bronze Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve,

NV (Delta Air Lines) 4.

Laurent-Perrier Brut, NV

(Brussels Airlines)

Leventre-Dedieu Grand Cru,

NV (Hainan Airlines) 5.

Louis d’Or Brut Special Edition (airberlin)

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from around the world, wines with superb balance and food friendliness.”

Rivest, with a supporting committee, chooses the wines served on Air Canada. And that adds up to 360,000 bottles opened a year in international business class. The wine selection in business class changes every three months.

The airline began in 1937 as Trans-Canada Airline and was renamed Air Canada in 1964.

Today it carries 41 million customers annually to 200 airports on six continents.

Brussels Airlines won silver and TAP Portugal garnered bronze in International Business Class, while airberlin and Aeroflot held the fourth- and

fifth-highest scores.

For the second year, American Airlines won gold in Best North American First Class/Business Class Wines on the Wing. Not only did its wines add up to the highest score among North American entries, both its white and its red each won gold in their categories.

American also did well in the international contests, with its Taittinger Champagne earning a silver in Top Five Champagnes International First Class; its Louis Robin Chablis and Joseph Mellot Domaine de Bellecours Sancerre placing among the Top Five White Wines International First Class, and Cono Sur Vineyard Syrah winning silver in Top Five

WINNERS’ CIRCLE TOP FIVE SPARKLING WINES INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS Gold Luis Pato Blanc de Blancs,

NV (TAP Portugal) Silver Ferrari Maximum Brut,

NV (Alitalia) Bronze Flor Prosecco, NV

(Hawaiian Airlines) TOP FIVE WHITE WINES INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS Gold Vitkin Winery Grenache

Blanc 2015, Israel

(EL AL Israel Airlines) Silver R de Rieussec Bordeaux Blanc

2015, France (All Nippon Airlines)

Bronze

4.

Red Wines International Business Class.

Among other high scorers in International First Class were British Airways’ Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle, Grande Cuvée Champagne; Singapore Airlines’ Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc; and two St. Emilion reds — Esprit de Valandraud from United and Château La Dominique from British Airways.

Wines scoring high in International Business Class included Brussels Airlines’ Laurent-Perrier, Hainan Airlines’ Leventre-Dedieu Grand Cru and airberlin’s Louis d’Or Special Edition among Champagnes; Selbach Riesling Kabinett (Singapore Airlines) and Paulo Laureano Reserve Bianco

(TAP Portugal) among whites; and Dona Maria, blend (TAP Portugal) and Château Malescasse (Brussels Airlines).

Twenty-four of the airlines participating in this year’s Wines on the Wing competition are members of an airline alliance. The alliance whose member airlines scored the highest average this year is oneworld, represented by airberlin, American Airlines and British Airways.

Shakespeare titled one of his comedies All’s Well That Ends Well. Global Traveler could readily borrow the bard’s title as the outcome of its 13th annual Wines on the Wing International Airline Wine Competition.

Robert Mondavi Chardonnay Reserve 2014, California (Asiana Airlines) Domaine Thibault Pouilly-Fumé 2015, France (British Airways) Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2015, New Zealand (Singapore Airlines)

Louis Robin Chablis 2014,

France (American Airlines) 5.

Joseph Mellot Domaine de

Bellecours Sancerre 2015,

France (American Airlines)

TOP FIVE WHITE WINES INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS Gold Jurtschitsch Grüner Veltliner

2016, Austria (Air Canada) Steininger Grüner Veltliner 2015,

Austria (Brussels Airlines) Silver Radovanović Chardonnay 2013,

Serbia (Air Serbia) Bronze Weingut Robert Weil Riesling

2014, Germany (United Airlines) 4.

Selbach Riesling Kabinett 2014,

Germany (Singapore Airlines) 5.

Paulo Laureano Reserve Bianco

2015, Portugal (TAP Portugal)

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Best International Business Class Sparking Wine

Best International Business Class Wines on the Wing

Gold 2017

Bronze 2017

WINNERS’ CIRCLE

JUDGING PROCESS

To participate in Global Traveler’s competition, airlines throughout the world that operate long-haul international first-class and/or business-class service are invited to submit two white wines, two red wines and one Champagne or other sparkling wine currently on their wine lists, as well as the wine lists themselves. The same rules apply to our category of North American airlines that have first-class and/ or business-class service.

The wines are coded and divided into flights, or groups, according to their type. For example, all Rioja reds submitted would be in one flight, all New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs in another. Wines are served to the judges in code-marked glasses. Judges are told only the type of wine. If judges feel a wine is flawed, a reserve bottle of wine is then opened and poured. Professional assistants serve the wines, and GT staff monitor the tasting.

Each wine is judged on a modified Davis 20-point scale.

The judges’ individual scores for each wine are added and averaged, and the averaged scores of an airline’s submissions are totaled. Airlines with the highest total scores and individual wines with the highest scores win Wines on the Wing awards.

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TOP FIVE RED WINES INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS Gold Gran Claustro 2011, Spain

(Asiana Airlines) Silver Château Fleur Cardinale

2011, St. Emilion, France

(Asiana Airlines) Bronze Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2014,

New Zealand

(Singapore Airlines) 4.

Esprit de Valandraud 2014,

St. Emilion, France

(United Airlines) 5.

Château La Dominique

2008, St. Emilion, France

(British Airways)

TOP FIVE RED WINES INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS Gold Drumheller Cabernet

Sauvignon 2015, Washington

(All Nippon Airways) Silver Cono Sur Single Vineyard

Syrah 2016, Chile

(American Airlines) Bronze Montes Alpha Cabernet

Sauvignon 2014, Chile (Aeromexico) 4.

Dona Maria 2014, Alentejo,

Portugal (TAP Portugal) 5.

Château Malescasse 2012,

Bordeaux, France

(Brussels Airlines) BEST NORTH AMERICAN FIRST CLASS/BUSINESS WINES ON THE WING Gold American Airlines Silver JetBlue Bronze Delta Air Lines

JUDGES’ BIOS

SCOTT CARNEY, MS, is the dean of wine studies at the International Culinary Center, which has schools in New York City and Silicon Valley, Calif.

JOSEPH DELISSIO has been wine director of the River Café in Brooklyn for the past 37 years. He is also the author of The River Café Wine Primer and a frequent wine consultant and lecturer.

JOHN FANNING is general manager of The Lambs Club, New York. He has been wine director and/or general manager of other restaurants in New York: SD26, Accademia di Vino, Il Trulli, Beppe, Felidia, Coco Pazzo, Le Madri and Palio; and in Rome: Bramante and San Michelle.

FRED FERRETTI is a wine and food writer whose articles appear in many national publications.

Formerly a New York Times reporter, he was also a columnist for Gourmet magazine for many years.

XAVIER FLOURET is owner of Cognac One, LLC, a national wine importer and New York wine wholesaler. The company focuses on sustainable and organic privately owned wine estates around the world that specialize in the best expressions of terroir and wine appellations.

DAVID FRIESER is president of Beekman Liquors, Inc., a 60-yearold wine shop in Manhattan, and a frequent wine lecturer for clients.

He has been professionally involved in wine for more than 30 years.

CODY GOLDSTEIN, an experienced wine director, is founder of Muddling Memories, a beverage and branding management firm. He has been featured on television and radio, and his drink recipes have been published in national media outlets. His latest book is Gone with the Gin: Cocktails with a Hollywood Twist.

FRANK JOHNSON is chairman and CEO of Frank Johnson Selections, an international wine brokerage firm. In his 40 years in wine, he has worked in various aspects of the business.

He is also the author and editor of several wine publications.

KAREN KING is director of onpremise development at Winebow, the wine importing firm. She has been wine director at Union Square Café, beverage director at Gramercy Tavern and The Modern in New York and has taught wine at The French Culinary Institute.

DAVID LECOMTE is chief winemaker at City Winery. A native of France’s Rhône Valley, he earned degrees in viticulture and winemaking in France and worked in French, American and Chinese wineries before making wine in the middle of Manhattan.

GILLES MARTIN is the winemaker and director of operations at Sparkling Pointe winery on Long Island, N.Y., and a consultant to many other Long Island wineries. French-born, he studied winemaking at Montpelier and has worked at Roederer Estate and Delas Frères.

DAVID MILLIGAN is president of David Milligan Selections, representing fine French producers. He has been in the wine trade for more than 40 years, beginning with his training in England. He also served as president of Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines.

KATHERINE MOORE, FWS, is general manager of Union Square Wine & Spirits, a large retail shop in Manhattan.

JOHANNES NECKERMANN is a wine consultant. A native of Germany, he has worked at Champagne Taittinger as a sommelier and in wine retail and has taught wine in SUNY’s adult program.

CAMILLE PARSON is the director of operations at Norwood, a private arts club in New York City where, for

the past seven years, she has been in charge of its wine cellar, wine list, wine tastings and wine dinners.

Previously, she was wine and service director for Three Sixty Hospitality.

JUDY RUNDEL has been on the staff of Heights Chateau, a wine shop in Brooklyn Heights, for more than 20 years, where she takes part in wine buying decisions, coordinates the Wine of the Month Club and writes content for the shop’s website. She also conducts wine tastings and classes.

ARNO SCHMIDT has been the executive chef at New York’s Waldorf Astoria, The Plaza and other hotels where he organized numerous wine and food events. A native of Austria, he has worked in hospitality since 1946.

BOB SHACK is owner and president of HB Wine Merchants/R. Shack Selections and of Clos Robert Winery in Sonoma, Calif. Previously he served as vice president and manager of the Premiere Wine Merchants Division of Rémy Martin Amerique for 20 years.

WILLIAM SHORT is regional manager, New York for Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., a fine-wine importing company. At 34 years he is the longest-tenured salesman in the company’s history. Before joining the wine business, he taught for 10 years.

TIM SOMERS has worked in wine and spirits for 29 years and has been involved in startup wineries in California, North Carolina and China.

He is currently vice president of commercial capabilities at Pernod Ricard and is a Certified Specialist of Wine: Society of Wine Educators.

PAMELA WITTMANN is the principal of Millissime, Ltd., her 15-yearold public relations and marketing firm specializing in helping foreign wineries entering the U.S. market.

She has degrees in oenology and business and has worked in wineries and in wine sales.

WINNERS’ CIRCLE BEST NORTH AMERICAN CHAMPAGNE/SPARKLING WINE Gold Flor Prosecco, NV, Italy

(Hawaiian Airlines) Silver Mito Ca Di Rajo, Italy

(Delta Air Lines)

Roederer Estate Brut,

NV, California (JetBlue) Bronze Bottega Prosecco, NV,

Italy (Virgin America)

BEST NORTH AMERICAN RED WINE Gold La Ferme du Côtes du

Rhône 2014, France

(American Airlines) Silver Bedrock Wine Co.

Old Vine Zinfandel

2014, California (JetBlue) Bronze Trefethen Merlot 2013, California

(Delta Air Lines) BEST NORTH AMERICAN WHITE WINE Gold Domaine de la Chaise

Sauvignon 2016, France

(American Airlines) Silver Heredad de Emina

Verdejo 2015, Spain

(United Airlines) Bronze Hermann J. Wiemer

Vineyard Dry Riesling

2015, New York (JetBlue)

BEST ALLIANCE WINES ON THE WING Gold oneworld Silver Star Alliance Bronze SkyTeam

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Through the Grapevine Tour the world’s best wine regions for a taste of local terroir. BY KRISTY ALPERT ON THE WINE TRAIL:

(Left to right) A Cloudy Bay glass, swings at Cloudy Bay Vineyards in New Zealand and old clay pots used for winemaking in Tbilisi, Georgia PHOTOS: © KIERAN SCOTT, © CLOUDY BAY, © DMYTRO LOBODA | DREAMSTIME .COM

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ONE BY ONE I SLIPPED off my sandals and let my toes sink into the cool, lush lawn that stretched from the patio of the Cloudy Bay tasting room and out toward the sun-ripened vineyards in the distance. Although it was my first time in New Zealand, everything around me suddenly seemed overwhelmingly familiar.

The scents in the air wafted by, bringing with them distinct reminiscences of afternoons spent laughing and sipping chilled white wine with friends during summer barbecues back home. Cloudy Bay’s Sauvignon Blanc had long been my favorite wine for entertaining on the patio — which was why I traveled across the world to explore this iconic wine region — and I could almost taste the characteristics of the wine on my tongue as I stood there, soaking in my surroundings.

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As if on cue, a waiter appeared from the tasting room door with a chilled bottle of the vineyard’s latest vintage to offer me a fresh glass. With each sip I came back to my present moment, sinking deeper into my surroundings while creating new memories with Cloudy Bay. I smiled as I watched the sun set behind the vines in the same way the wine’s subtle minerality slowed to a silky finish on my tongue.

There was something amazing about drinking the wine on the spot it had been produced, as if I could taste the essence of the region as I slowly savored the contents of my glass.

It was the French who first developed the concept of terroir — a word describing the way a wine expresses all of its environmental factors (soil type, climate and so on) from the place it originated — but it was in New Zealand, on that

sunny day in the vineyards, that I fully understood the beauty of drinking and traveling based on terroir.

Currently, more than 10,000 varieties of wine grapes are grown in more than 70 countries around the world, each offering its own insights into life in its respective region. Over the years, the world’s best wine regions have told their stories through the soil, and even today, one of the best ways to understand and appreciate wine on a deeper level is to visit the regions best known for winemaking.

“Wine is a part of social life in every country,” says Natia Khidasheli, cofounder and director, Caucasus Journey-Traveler’s Club and a food and wine travel guide in Tbilisi, Georgia. “It shows the development and culture of a society. To visit wine countries or regions is the best way for a wine lover to explore the ethnology, culture and lifestyle of the place. Like in Georgia, you cannot divide cultural tourism, culinary tourism and wine tourism. All are one; it is a Georgian lifestyle.”

Like many of her fellow countrymen, Khidasheli has been in the wine industry since before she can remember, making wine with her family in their home as most Geor-

gians have done for centuries. Georgia is widely considered the birthplace of wine, as the oldest remnants of wine grapes were found in the country, dating back to the sixth millennium B.C. Today Georgia has become the mecca of wine journeys, where wine lovers can see the original winemaking style still employed at most wineries, using giant ancient clay pots (qvevri) stored below ground to age and mature the juice before bottling the wine.

In Italy’s Tuscany region, visitors can sleep among the vines at Castello di Casole, a Timbers Resort, where a 10th-century castle offers luxurious accommodations in the heart of this storied wine region. Guests can ride bikes through the more than 100 acres of organic vineyards dotted with Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and Cabernet grapes before coming back to the castle grounds for a guided tasting of the region’s best Tuscan and Super Tuscan wines by the resort’s sommelier.

It could take decades to visit all the wineries in France, with its best regions including Bordeaux, Champagne, Burgundy and Provence, but for true aficionados, it’s worth the long effort for the chance to sip their way through the country. Red wine lovers will love the Pinot Noir vine-

o the ding t Accor l ationa Intern n of izatio Organ ore ine, m W d n Vine a ion 9 mill 5 2 n tha wine ers of t i l o t hec d in oduce r p e r we 240 nearly d n a , 2016 iters hectol n o i l l mi d the nsume o c e r we year. same

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WINE IMMERSION:

Happy women get doused in wine during Batalla del Vino – Haro Wine Festival, La Rioja (top), and a sign welcomes visitors to Napa Valley (bottom).

PHOTO: © IAKOV FILIMONOV | DREAMSTIME.COM, © PHOTOQUEST | DREAMSTIME .COM

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yards in Burgundy and the rich, robust blends of Bordeaux’s famous Right and Left banks, while those who prefer lighter wines will find solace in the salmon-hued rosés from Provence or in the UNESCO-rated chalk caves in Taittinger’s Champagne cellar below the streets of Reims.

Spain’s winemaking heritage can best be seen in the medieval villages of the vineyard-lined hills of the country’s most famous wine region, La Rioja. Here you’ll find some of the country’s best wineries, including CUNE, López de

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Heredia Viña Tondonia Winery, Bodegas Roda, Bodegas Ysios, Marqués de Riscal, Bodegas Muga and Finca Allende.

Not far from the vineyards, visitors can partake of one of the region’s most exciting wine traditions at the Haro Wine Festival.

The festival takes place every year on June 29, where locals and tourists dressed in white join a procession to the cliffs of Bilibio to re-enact the historic Batalla del Vino (wine fight) which took place in the 13th century over a property line dispute that resulted in a heated display with both sides spraying red wine on each other and the hills. Nearly 400 years later the tradition still continues, only now participants joyfully spray wine with squirt guns instead of bota bags and stay overnight in cushy campsites provided by the festival’s official tour operator, Stoke Travel.

Located off the German Weinstrasse (wine route), an up-and-coming winery, Weingut Bergdolt-Reif & Nett, offers visitors an immersive experience into the culture of German wine. The winery is set in the hills of a small wine village called Duttweiler, where interested guests can arrange tastings of vintages past or play a part in the next vintage by booking an immersive grapestomping experience with the winemaker himself.

The Americas’ New World varieties of wine stretch from Argentina to Canada, but even with the Malbecs of Mendoza (like Bodega Colomé’s Altura Maxima, wine made from grapes selected from the highest-altitude vineyards in the world) luring visitors south, the best destination to get a sense of how wine impacted an entire region is, without a doubt, Napa Valley in California.

“Where I live, wine is the driving economic force,” says Matt Stamp, master sommelier and co-owner, Compline Wine Bar in Napa Valley, Calif.

“Everyone is connected to wine — they work for suppliers or sellers or middlemen or in any number of support industries. Being surrounded by wine elevates culture; it elevates restaurants; it elevates the desire for other arts. I’ve seen a younger crowd become more and more interested in wine tourism, and as people in their 20s embrace wine at an earlier age than their parents did, their desire to visit regions where wine is produced grows. Visiting Napa Valley — or anywhere else in the world that takes wine seriously — can be so fun and enriching and rewarding.”

Wine itself has the power to take its drinkers on a journey, transporting them to far-off lands through aromas and subtle nuances of flavors and textures, which is why journeying to one of the world’s best wine regions can seem so exotic and yet so familiar at the same time. The top wine regions of the world are delicious reminders that moments matter as much as stunning scenery, remarkable people and delicious meals.

Raise your glasses to the 2017 Gold award winner

Perfectly balanced to match your taste even at 30,000 feet.

Our wines and Champagnes don’t just taste good, they taste even better in the air.

Thanks to airberlin, American Airlines and British Airways, oneworld was named the Best Airline Alliance in this year’s Global Traveler magazine’s Wines on the Wing competition.

Cheers!

the world’s leading airlines working as one. airberlin American Airlines British Airways Cathay Pacific Finnair Iberia Japan Airlines LATAM Malaysia Airlines Qantas Qatar Airways Royal Jordanian S7 Airlines SriLankan Airlines

mice | CARTAGENA

Enchantment of Cartagena Host meetings and events in Colombia’s exotic walled city.

TEST OF TIME:

Historic Clock Tower Gate PHOTO: © JESSE KRAFT | DREAMSTIME.COM

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BY TIM LEFFEL

WHEN I FIRST VISITED CARTAGENA, I went from touring an exhibit hall to standing on 17th-century stone fortification walls 15 minutes later. I left my hotel tower and walked for miles on the beach the next day. Our closing party took place in the historic walled city, with a convent from 1551 on one side and a full cumbia band flanked by costumed dancers on the other.

Colombia’s largest port put the city on the map nearly 500 years ago when it began its role as a major trading center in the New World. The official name is Cartagena de las Indias since the arriving conquistadors named it after the city of Cartagena in Spain. It fended off pirate attacks and spent a dark time as a slave trading center before declaring its independence from Spain and

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gaining it for good in 1821. It holds an important place in the hearts of Colombians, being a base for Simón Bolívar and the home of novelist Gabriel García Marques.

Through attacks and prosperity, civil wars and drug wars, this city retained its crown as the jewel of Colombia for commerce, then tourism. Lately the appeal has been as a solid real estate investment for both Colombians and foreigners. The skyline therefore changed dramatically in recent years, with new residential high-rises springing up around the more modestly sized colonial buildings inside the walls.

This city on the water now thrives as a major meeting center as well, hosting high-profile events such as the Interpol General

HIGH-TECH:

InterContinental Cartagena de Indias meeting room

PHOTO: © INTERCONTINENTAL HOTELS GROUP

tions tifica r o f ’s agena of Cart edge e h t o ded t stone exten h one t i w , r arbo a of the h insul n e p e on th fort e and rand G o l il illo Cast anzan M n er o chain anoth ating o l f two d. A Islan n the e e w t be ched ense. stret f def o e n li first as a

Assembly and the Latin American Economic Forum.

Attracted to the UNESCO World Heritage walled city and the Caribbean island-hopping options on the water, many tourism conferences and incentive conferences pick Cartagena throughout the year.

It’s easy to find your hotel on a map here. Most of the large properties are situated near the water, stretching from the Hilton at the end of Bocagrande past the Sofitel Legend Santa Clara in the center to new properties opening north of Las Americas Hotel and its convention center facing the beach. The International Center of Conventions and Expositions at Las Americas sits across from the 529-room namesake hotel with a wide range of good restaurants. This is one of two major meeting centers in the city, close to the airport and many large hotels, with a capacity of 3,600 people. The Cartagena de Indias Convention Center has more character surrounding it, as it is located on the edge of the old city near colonial-era churches and boutique hotels. This center can host another few thousand attendees, and its fully equipped theater has more than 1,450 seats.

The dual centers for large events aren’t the only games in town, however. The 187-room InterContinental Cartagena includes eight varied meeting rooms. A boardroom seats 10, and the grand ballroom offers a banquet capacity of 500. Although steps from the beach, the hotel is part of a development that also includes a shopping mall and casino.

The nearby 341-room Hilton Cartagena has a panoramic view of the water from some dining spots and breakout areas. It boasts an experienced staff, an exhibition

hall and 15 meeting rooms. The largest one is a ballroom that can host up to 750 registrants.

For companies preferring a golf getaway, the Conrad Cartagena, also part of the Hilton group, will open its doors in September, bringing an 18-hole golf course designed by Jack Nicklaus to the city’s offerings. With seven dining and drinking outlets, a full spa and four swimming pools, this resort with 268 rooms will be a fun spot when the meetings are done. There’s plenty of room for business, though, with five meeting rooms, a beach lounge and a ballroom hosting more than 750 for banquets.

Hotel construction tax incentives expiring at the end of 2017 have spurred a flurry of construction. A Hyatt Regency and Sheraton will join the Conrad this year, and still more international brands are on the way, including two from Marriott.

Cartagena is Colombia’s most cosmopolitan city, but this is nothing new. Over the years Jews, Italians, French, Turks, Lebanese, Syrians and, of course, Spaniards settled here. Freed slaves and Caribbean sailors mixed with merchants and traders. Lately, new residents from Argentina to Venezuela to Canada have put down roots here. Cartagena is an easy city to reach, with flights on nine airlines coming from North America, South America and Europe to Rafael Núñez International Airport. With Avianca based in Colombia and value airlines like Spirit and JetBlue keeping a lid on prices, fares stay reasonable throughout the year, including in business class.

Exotic and unique but ready with the latest technology, Cartagena is a historic beach city that’s truly distinctive as a conference location.

UNIQUE VENUES

Want a special venue for a memorable event? Cartagena overflows with interesting spots. Several plazas inside the stone walls are big enough for a full band stage, while smaller groups can have a cocktail hour at sunset on the walls themselves.

The Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas fort from 1657 and the 17th-century Plaza de la Proclamación in the old city also offer evocative reception spots at night.

Barefoot cocktails in the sand aren’t hard to arrange with so many miles of sandy beaches to pick from. Small incentive groups often enjoy a daytime island excursion or sunset cruise.

With new skyscrapers going up each year, roof decks with a view are abundant, and most hotels include a spot that overlooks the crashing waves or the city skyline. Colombia is known for its coffee, and the locals’ preferred bar items are beer; rum; and aguardiente, an anise-flavored clear liquor. There are only a few vineyards, all growing grapes at high elevations. Find the best selection of these and other South American wines at the top luxury hotel in the city, Sofitel Legend Santa Clara Cartagena, at its Restaurant 1621 or El Coro lounge bar. The hotel frequently offers tastings and special wine events.

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BUSINESS destinations

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JINJIANG

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BROOKLYN

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INCHEON

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SALZBURG

e es nam k a L inger ne, The F ith wi w d e ociat is ass ng, but i l s e i ally R r especi h othe t i w y singl n increa merica A d n ernet ean a p b o a r C u g E in includ s e i t e ir. vari ot No n i P and Franc

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PHOTOS: © BELHURST CASTLE, © SCALIGER | DREAMSTIME.COM

GUJARAT

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destination one | JINJIANG

Good Fortune The trading culture runs deep in modern-day Jinjiang. BY RICHARD NEWTON

HIDDEN TREASURES: Wudianshi entrance PHOTO: © WHARF HOTELS

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IN THE LATE 13TH CENTURY on the southeast coast of China, a Venetian merchant arrived at a vast bay muddied by the outflow of two great rivers, the Jin and the Luo Yang. The man was Marco Polo, an experienced traveler who traded his way across Europe and Asia. It was a well-worn route.

European merchants came to China to procure silk, tea, salt, sugar, spices and porcelain. They brought with them gold, silver, ivory, wool and wine.

By the time Marco Polo reached the coast, he had traded at many centers along the fabled Silk

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Road, but here he found a place that, thanks to strategic good fortune, stood out. The bay provided safe mooring for vessels from all over Asia and beyond, while the two major rivers afforded access to the Chinese interior. When the Venetian later wrote his famous account of his travels, he declared this spot to be one of the “greatest havens in the world for commerce.”

Over subsequent centuries, China became more insular, international trade withered, and the area’s fortunes waned. Yet the geographical advantages were unchanged, giving rise to four cities: Jinjiang, Quanzhou, Nan’an and Shishi. They retain their distinct identities, though they have long since sprawled into one another, and from the air on approach to Quanzhou Jinjiang International Airport it is not easy to distinguish where one ends and the next begins. Administratively, Jinjiang, Nan’an and Shishi are county-level cities, while Quanzhou is the senior prefecture-level city.

COMING AND GOING

All U.S. citizens require a passport valid for at least six months beyond arrival and a valid visa. Ten-year multiple entry visas are available. It is essential to ensure your paperwork is in order prior to traveling to China. Any discrepancy could result in a fine and deportation.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE

Mandarin Chinese is widely spoken, though the most common first language is Minnan.

TRAVELERS WELCOME: Marco Polo Jinjiang exterior (top) and lobby (bottom) PHOTOS: © WHARF HOTELS

LODGING

GRANDLINK HOTEL This large, palatial hotel in the southern part of the city includes a gym, indoor swimming pool and tennis court, plus meeting rooms.

North Haiba Road, Anhai Town $$

In some respects, Jinjiang is where the modern Chinese economic miracle started. In the 1970s, when the country’s Communist leadership made its first cautious experiments with private enterprise, Jinjiang was the guinea pig. The “Jinjiang Model” encouraged small businesses to thrive, and local per capita incomes rapidly rose to nearly three times the national average.

Jinjiang’s modern success was built on modest factories producing food, clothing and shoes. The economic boom transformed the cityscape. As you’d expect of a Chinese industrial city, Jinjiang has become a forest of high-rise apartment blocks and industrial zones threaded through with multi-lane highways. And yet unlike cities such as Beijing and Shanghai,

which swept away much of their architectural fabric in the march forward, Jinjiang simultaneously managed to conserve its traditions.

In part that is due to strong family ties to the ancestral past. Scattered throughout the city you’ll find clan temples preserving the heritage of individual families.

Within these ancient shrines the modern city recedes, and you are immersed in the sights, sounds and scents of another time.

The preservation of the past is taken to extremes in Wudianshi (Five Shops District) in the heart of Jinjiang. Here, hedged by ranks of skyscrapers, hundreds of Song and Ming Dynasty buildings dating back 600–1,000 years have been translocated and rebuilt. The result is a photogenic cluster of low-rise, tile-roofed houses and temples that give a vivid sense of the city as Marco Polo would have known it.

As a port, Jinjiang is inherently outward-looking. This was one of the main departure points for the Chinese diaspora,

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MARCO POLO JINJIANG This modern hotel managed by Hong Kong-based Marco Polo Hotels caters primarily to domestic business travelers. Not all of the staff speak English.

Sunshine East Street, Qing Yang Town $$$ WYNDHAM JINJIANG Located close to the economic zone, this high-rise hotel (formerly the Ramada Plaza) offers international comfort and familiarity.

1 Yuandong Ave., Economic Development Zone $$$

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ably ’ve prob u o y , g n a o Jinji ring r been t nufactu e a v m e n r o e j you’v ’s a ma Even if there. It ers. e d a m e sneak m hing a t n e m d o n s worn nd bra swear a t r o p s r o center f

THEN AND NOW: Jinjiang features South Fujian architecture (top), and small factories churn out knockoffs like the Abibas brand (bottom).

PHOTOS: © IVAN SINAYKO | DREAMSTIME .COM, © TSANGMING CHANG | DREAMSTIME .COM

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT +8 Phone code: Country code: 86 City code: 595 Currency: Renminbi (aka yuan) Key industries: Manufacturing, import-export

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and today hundreds of thousands of people of Chinese origin living around the world regard this city as their ancestral home.

But that is only part of the story. Jinjiang has been defined as much by immigration as emigration. The Ding clan arrived from Persia 800 years ago, bringing Islam with it. Christianity and Hinduism also have deep roots here. The city’s most precious symbol of religious diversity is situated on Huabiao Mountain, west of downtown.

Here, nestling amid trees, is the Cao’an Temple, dating back to the ninth century. Although it superficially appears to be Buddhist, it is, in fact, the world’s only surviving Manichean temple, a valuable relic of a Middle Eastern religion that was persecuted to extinction more than a thousand years ago.

Despite its wealth of historic sites, Jinjiang has largely been bypassed by international tourism, though not by international business. The trading culture runs deep, and in the past three decades the city has established itself as a global hub for the manufacture of sportswear and sneakers. It isn’t all aboveboard. Alongside the famous brands, Jinjiang’s small factories also churn out cheap knock-offs: Mike sneakers; Abibas duffel bags.

But recently a new Jinjiang threat emerged to the global domination of Western sportswear brands. Anta, a brand headquartered in Jinjiang, invested heavily in design and marketing and is the official sponsor of boxer Manny Pacquiao and basketball star Klay Thompson, among others. Anta’s bird-like, sweeping logo is indicative of a city aspiring to reach new heights.

Marco Polo was one of the first outsiders to recognize Jinjiang’s potential, though he was not without criticism.

“Neither grapes nor wine are produced here,” he wrote. “But very good raisins are brought from abroad, and wine likewise.”

Trade is the way of life in Jinjiang, and local businessmen have no qualms about toasting their export successes with the finest imported wine.

CHECKING IN WITH KATRINA YU Asia Correspondent, SBS World News

What cultural differences should American investors be aware of when doing business in China?

The concept of “face” is key when traveling to China for business. It’s a difficult concept to grasp, but it primarily represents a person’s reputation and status within different spheres of life such as business, family, friends and so on. The main thing to be conscious of is maintaining a certain level of respect — or even formality — when it comes to business dealings and avoiding public/ group confrontations that might embarrass a member of a Chinese team or cause them to lose face.

Another key difference is that business cards are king. Often people will exchange them on first meeting. They should be given and received with two hands and considered thoughtfully before being carefully put away — not crammed into a pocket!

How does Jinjiang compare to other Chinese cities?

Jinjiang is a relatively small city but with a bustling business/manufacturing industry. Compared to other cities in China, it’s been less exposed to Western visitors and culture. This is not to say it’s not exposed to other cultures.

People from Jinjiang have been traveling around the region and returning over the past few decades, bringing stories, tastes and sensibilities from other countries in Asia. Jinjiang also embraces aspects of traditional Chinese culture the south of the country is known for. For example, partaking in tea-drinking ceremonies, doing calligraphy or ink-painting and the celebration of poetry still seem to be actively embraced by people of all generations, while some of these things are less popular in major urban centers such as Beijing.

Many people in the Chinese diaspora, yourself included, trace their ancestry to Jinjiang. To what extent do those overseas family connections impact the city?

For a small southern city Jinjiang is relatively prosperous, with a bustling manufacturing industry, thanks to the traveling entrepreneurial nature of many in the community.

Many family members who left Jinjiang to look for better lives or opportunities returned to begin businesses or sent money back to their families. Also, it’s common to speak to someone in Jinjiang who has had at least one relative migrate or spend time overseas in the Philippines, Malaysia, Singapore, etc. Because of this there’s a deeper understanding of these cultures among local Jinjiang people.

What attractions would you recommend in Jinjiang and the surrounding area?

For solid understanding of Jinjiang’s culture of migration, I recommend the Migration Museum. It’s close to Jinjiang’s city center and offers free entry. It houses exhibitions on Chinese emigration and the origins of China’s global diaspora. From enduring terrible treatment as exploited workers to becoming successful settlers and businesspeople, it tells a fascinating story of the millions of overseas Chinese and the active communities around the world which maintain their Chinese identity, language and culture.

Five Shops District, or Wudianshi, is great for a relaxing cultural stroll. This pedestrian compound contains more than 100 lovingly relocated and refurbished historical buildings from the Song and Ming dynasties. According to legend, during the Tang Dynasty there were five shops and restaurants in Jinjiang that were so well-run and served such excellent cuisine that they made the area famous.

Today visitors to Five Shops District can experience ancient architecture while sipping tea or shopping for antiques.

BEST PRACTICE: When meeting business partners in Jinjiang, presenting a business card with both hands shows a sign of respect.

PHOTOS: © KATRINA YU, © BELLEMEDIA | DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING

DD TEPPANYAKI BANKER’S CLUB The Japanese restaurant featuring a teppanyaki grill opens daily for lunch (11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.) and dinner (5:30–11 p.m.).

Marco Polo Hotel, Sunshine East Street, Qing Yang Town $$$ LITTLE SHEEP HOT POT With several outlets in the city, the popular Chinese chain offers all-you-can-eat, make-it-yourself Mongolian one-pots. Select ingredients and cook at your table.

Jinxi Road; Changxing Road; Xinshun Street $ TEPPANYAKI RESTAURANT Belying the Japanese name, the Wyndham’s fine-dining restaurant offers French cuisine and a decent wine list. Not to be confused with the restaurant at the Marco Polo.

Wyndham Hotel, 1 Yuandong Ave., Economic Development Zone $$$

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LEGENDARY LOCALES: Giant statue of Laozi (top left), Kaiyuan Temple in Quanzhou (top right), and artistic detail at Kaiyuan Temple (bottom)

DIVERSIONS

Can you be in a metropolitan region with a population of 8 million while simultaneously being off the beaten path? During a visit to Jinjiang and neighboring Quanzhou, you will conclude: Yes, you can.

There is little in the way of international tourism here (the vast majority of foreign arrivals have ancestral connections to the region), and the population of expatriates is in the hundreds at most, as opposed to the tens of thousands residing in Shanghai, Beijing or Hong Kong.

The Cao’an Temple on Huabiao Mountain is the must-see for history enthusiasts. The only surviving building of the long-lost Manichean religion, it pre-dates Marco Polo’s visit by several centuries.

For a sense of the trading port Marco Polo encountered in the 13th century, cross the River Jin to Quanzhou and visit the excellent Maritime Museum. Exhibits include ancient artifacts and many scale models of sailing vessels. Signage is in English as well as Chinese. While in Quanzhou, be sure to visit the Kaiyuan Temple, another architectural relic Marco Polo would recognize today. It dates back to 686; and although it is a Buddhist site, it incorporates elements of a Hindu temple constructed in the 13th century by

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PHOTOS: © TSANGMING CHANG | DREAMSTIME.COM, © TSANGMING CHANG | DREAMSTIME.COM

the local Tamil population. Towering over the sprawling, leafy grounds are two intricately carved, five-story stone pagodas.

For a rural diversion, head into the wooded, hilly hinterland behind Quanzhou to visit an ancient stone sculpture of the fifth-century Chinese philosopher Laozi (also known as LaoTzu), the founder of Taoism. The statue, carved from natural rock, is interesting in itself, but a visit also provides a green, peaceful respite from the hectic swirl of urban life. If you have the time, hiking trails beyond the sculpture ascend the forested slopes of Qinyuan Mountain, with great views along the way.

Alternatively, head in the other direction and escape to the coast. Jinjiang’s neighboring city, Shishi, boasts more than 40 miles of coastline, including broad, sandy beaches. The prime resort is the Gold Coast, an extensive complex including hotels, an aquarium and shopping mall.

Sightseeing boat trips offer an offshore view of this fascinating corner of southeast China.

INFO TO GO

Flights arrive at Quanzhou Jinjiang International Airport, five minutes by taxi from downtown Jinjiang. The airport is served by domestic flights from several major Chinese cities (including Hong Kong), and international flights to Thailand, Japan, Singapore and the Philippines, among others. The city is also connected to the high-speed Fuzhou-Xiamen Railway, which links the major cities along the coast of Fujian Province.

stateside | BROOKLYN

Leaps and Bounds Business and population growth reach new heights in Brooklyn. BY EUNICE FRIED OVER THE RIVER:

Brooklyn Bridge and Manhattan Bridge with DUMBO (left), and exhibits at Brooklyn Museum (right) PHOTOS: © ILJA MAŠÍK | DREAMSTIME.COM, © RITU JETHANI | DREAMSTIME .COM

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hotel rooms.

IF IT WERE A CITY UNTO ITSELF, it would be the fourth-largest in As more hotels opened, the choice of meeting spaces grew, the country. As it is, Brooklyn, with more than 2.5 million people, is among them the Vale Ballroom at The William Vale, the Meadow the most heavily populated of the five boroughs that together make Rue in 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge and flexible banquet and meeting up New York City. spaces at the New York Marriott at the Brooklyn Bridge.

With nearly a third of New York’s total population, BrookIn the past five years, Brooklyn has lyn is a thriving borough, become a sought-after location for growing enormously in ‘Brooklyn has seen a steady increase in technology companies, both startups the past few years in new business development growth, from welland mature entities. Since being elected features and facilities. Lying borough president of Brooklyn in 2013, across the East River from known business brands and brand hotels Eric Adams has worked to strengthen Manhattan, it has become a to industry startups in tech and design.’ the borough’s economy by, among other leading center for business moves, developing the concept of the and events and welcomes Jerry Cito, senior vice president of Brooklyn Tech Triangle and investing in more than 15 million visitors convention development, NYC & Company that entity at three Brooklyn spots: the a year.

Brooklyn Navy Yard, Downtown BrookGreat growth brought lyn and DUMBO (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass). new hotels, among them Hotel Indigo Brooklyn, Hilton BrookBrooklyn also serves as a desired location for small creative lyn New York, Dazzler Brooklyn and 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge, businesses and back offices of large Manhattan companies. It hosts as well as a recent renovation of the New York Marriott at offices of a number of major corporations, among them Amazon the Brooklyn Bridge. Another 28 hotels have plans to build in Fashion, Time Inc. and Etsy. There is ample room for more; curBrooklyn, adding to the borough’s current inventory of 5,953

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rently, the borough offers about 17 million square feet of office space.

“Brooklyn has seen a steady increase in business development growth, from well-known business brands and brand hotels to industry startups in tech and design,” said Jerry Cito, senior vice president of convention development, NYC & Company. “With these new businesses, Brooklyn is becoming the next destination in New York City for companies of all sizes and interests to host their next big meeting or event.”

Since 2014 the borough also focused on strengthening its industrial and manufacturing sector, with the city’s administration investing in the Brooklyn Army Terminal. Built in 1918 and used as the country’s largest supply center during World War II, it is today evolving into a food manufacturing hub and a home for other light industries. The city recently announced it will add a new Made in NY campus as a center for garment manufacturing and film and television production.

In general, Brooklyn has seen the highest growth (12.8 percent) in private sector jobs of all five boroughs, more than double the national average. The sectors with the strongest growth include health, accommodations and food service, scientific and technical services, administrative services, education and construction.

Brooklyn, in short, is an enticing place with a bit of everything. As Eric Adams likes to say, “There are only two types of people: those who live in Brooklyn and those who wish they could.”

If visitors want to go somewhere outside of Brooklyn at the end of the workday, there are 13 subway lines and 15 city bus lines as well as cabs and the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges. And if visitors prefer to stay in Brooklyn, the borough has a great deal to offer.

Its restaurant scene grew and developed with the borough and now offers many excellent and interesting places to dine. The highly rated Al Di La Trattoria specializes in northern Italian cuisine. Vinegar Hill House serves new American fare in a rustic setting. Blanca is known for its lengthy tasting menus. Olmsted, a neighborhood restaurant, grows some of its ingredients in its backyard garden. And at Robert’s Pizza, Robert Garvey, who spent years perfecting his thin crust, makes artisanal pizza.

There is Barclays Center for NBA basketball in season and concerts through much of the year. The

BOOMING BOROUGH:

Aerial view of Brooklyn and the Brooklyn Army Terminal (above), and Barclays Center (left) PHOTO: © DEMERZEL21 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © LITTLENY | DREAMSTIME.COM

SCENIC DRIVES

highly regarded Brooklyn Academy of Music, an organization consisting of a number of small theaters, offers a rich and varied choice of productions. And you can usually find interesting theater in small venues in DUMBO. Don’t miss the Brooklyn Museum, one of the largest museums in New York City and particularly rich in Egyptian antiquities and American art. Or get away from it all with a walk in Prospect Park, Brooklyn’s 585-acre green respite.

When Brooklyn was first settled in the 1600s, it consisted of six Dutch towns, one of which was Breuckelen, named for a village in the Netherlands. After the English took control of the region in 1664, the area became one and the name was anglicized to Brooklyn.

And Brooklyn it remains, a singular place to live, work and create.

About 75 miles from Brooklyn at the farther end of Long Island (about 90 minutes to two hours), 50 wineries produce wines mostly from the grape varieties of Bordeaux, as well as some excellent sparkling wines.

Three especially outstanding wineries: Bouké Wines, Sparkling Pointe and Wölffer Estate.

If you prefer a winery close by, Brooklyn even offers that, with wineries located right in the borough.

At Brooklyn Oenology Winery, usually called BOE, winemaker Alie Shaper produces a wide variety of wines from grapes grown on Long Island and upper New York state.

Brooklyn Winery, a wine bar and a working winery, offers tours and tastings. Or head to the one-of-a-kind Rooftop Reds, where the vineyard and winery occupy a rooftop. It claims to be the only urban rooftop vineyard and winery in the world.

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9–5 | INCHEON

City of Tomorrow Impress clients in Incheon’s futuristic Songdo business district. BY RON BERNTHAL SMART CITY:

Central Park in Songdo International Business District PHOTO: © PANYA KHAMTUY | DREAMSTIME.COM

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IN 2001, SHORTLY AFTER the American development firm Gale International and its Korean partners POSCO E&C and Incheon Metropolitan City envisioned a new urban business district near South Korea’s major airport, the Songdo International Business District became the largest Korean–U.S. joint real estate construction venture in history.

The $35 billion project, almost fully operational, is nearing its completion date of 2018. Located on 1,500 reclaimed acres along the Incheon City waterfront, it lies one hour from Seoul and just 20 minutes from award-winning Incheon International Airport. The SIBD remains one of the world’s most sustainable

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urban districts, with the highest concentration of LEED-certified buildings in the world. When construction began, this huge project was called “The City of Tomorrow,” but now — with its soaring, post-modern glass skyscrapers, deluxe hotels, fastest internet speeds in the world, underground pneumatic tunnels for refuse and enough green space to satisfy the most serious environmentalists — tomorrow has already arrived.

For business travelers, the SIBD’s location near one of the world’s most dynamic and efficient airports offers a distinct advantage. A short taxi ride across the Incheon Bridge connects Yeongjong Island, where the airport is located, to the bustling metropolitan area of Korea’s third-largest city.

Future airport plans make the area even more attractive. The American casino operator Mohegan Tribal Gaming Authority partnered with Incheon International Airport Corp. to develop a casino resort complex.

It will include a three-tower luxury hotel with 1,350 guestrooms; retail and food venues; an entertainment arena; amusement parks; a 200,000-squarefoot casino; and the first private jet terminal in the world connected to an integrated casino resort. The first phase is expected to open in 2020.

The SIBD features schools, hospitals, parks, bike trails and cultural venues. Within the district, the 100-acre Central Park includes a manmade waterway filled with sea water, along with Venice-style water taxis.

With 106 buildings and 22 million square feet of LEED-certified

space, the SIBD makes up about 40 percent of such space in South Korea, including the first hotel in Korea (Sheraton Grand Incheon), the first residential tower in Korea (Central Park 1) and the first convention hall in Asia (Songdo Convensia) with LEED certification. The Jack Nicklaus Golf Club Korea, the focal point of SIBD’s green space program, offers an 18-hole championship course and a 50,000-square-foot clubhouse.

Since many of Incheon’s deluxe international hotels reside in the SIBD, begin your day early with a jog in Central Park or work out at the fully equipped fitness center, sauna and indoor swimming pool at the 5-star Sheraton Grand Incheon Hotel. The 319room Sheraton also offers a good place for a power breakfast with colleagues and local business clients at Feast, an all-day dining venue offering a large à la carte and buffet menu. The unique experience includes open kitchens and food cooking stations throughout the restaurant, a casual outdoor area and private dining options.

Continue client meetings in one of the Sheraton’s 17 high-tech function rooms. If visiting a trade show or corporate event, walk to the modern Songdo Convensia, a 581,000-square-foot, state-ofthe-art, five-floor convention center. The venue can host 450 exhibitor booths plus events and performances. Meeting rooms feature wireless internet, voice-operated cameras and LCD projectors.

For a business lunch, The Oak restaurant on the 36th floor of the deluxe Oakwood Premier hotel offers excellent Korean cuisine plus salads, pasta, steaks and fresh fish, all complemented by the view.

Or walk to the architecturally unique Gyeongwonjae Ambassador, part of the Accor chain, where your guests will enjoy dining at the hotel’s sophisticated Sura restaurant. Surrounded by traditional Korean décor, savor a high-quality lunch prepared using fresh ingredients and served on beautiful earthenware. Both venues require reservations and offer a quiet and elegant experience for a productive business lunch.

Depending on your guest list and sense of adventure, you may visit Dae-Wang Grilled Shellfish & Seafood Soup on Wolmido, a small island connected to Incheon by a new road, about 25–30 minutes by taxi. With its delicious grilled shellfish and kalguksu — a Korean soup of wheat flour noodles, broth and chicken — Dae-Wang offers a view of the West Sea. In the afternoon visit the Tri-Bowl, one of Incheon’s most eye-catching structures. Resembling an upturned bowl with three foundations appearing to float upon an artificial pond, the Tri-Bowl’s aluminum sheathing reflects sunlight during the day and is illuminated at night. Its performance hall provides floor space for exhibitions, concerts and other events.

INNOVATIONS:

Incheon Metropolitan City Museum Compact Smart City, where visitors can learn about Incheon's past, present and future (above); and Incheon's high-speed maglev train (left)​ PHOTOS: © INCHEON TOURISM ORGANIZATION

If your local contacts enjoy talking business while playing golf, as many do in golf-crazed Korea, reserve time at the Jack Nicklaus Golf Club. If bad weather interferes, set up a meeting at the clubhouse, banquet hall or garden villa; the restaurant and bar provide additional space.

Although there are no wineries in the Incheon region, several excellent bars serve good wine and light snacks for relaxation after a day of meetings. The Thirsty Monk is a wonderful pub located in the Orakai Songdo Park Hotel near Central Park. Along with a Western-style menu and award-winning Bavarian Weihenstephan beer, Thirsty Monk boasts a cellar with a great collection of European wine. Or try Serendip, an Italian restaurant and wine bar in upscale NC Cube Mall Canal Walk in SIBD, or La Vista, a French restaurant in old Songdo serving excellent French wine and appetizers in a second-floor wine bar.

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ongdo The S s an IBD i opolis, aerotr ilt city bu w e n a s e of it s u a c e b ity to proxim t. airpor r o j a am

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after 5 | SALZBURG

On the Town Wine bars, beer cellars and cafés abound in Salzburg. BY ALLISON VOIGTS

IN SALZBURG, WINE is a signature accompaniment to the endless nights of music, perhaps surprisingly, since beer is king. But Austria’s mountain gem is full of surprises. Catch an underground rock show, grab that classic lager or tuck in for dessert at a legendary coffee house — it vies with Vienna in laying claim to having invented café culture.

Start your evening nestled into the Altstadt, or Old Town, where Café Tomaselli still serves perfect cuppas 150 years after its founding. Nearby Café-Konditorei Fürst invented the irresistible Mozartkugel, a chocolate ball filled with nougat, marzipan and sometimes liqueur. But Salzburg isn’t locked in the past — 220 Grad prepares the city’s best third wave coffee. These and other cafés cluster near the central Residenzplatz and the Domplatz with Mozart’s birthplace, St. Peter’s Cemetery and the cathedral.

Though not as well-known as its oenological neighbors, Austria boasts a 4,000-year-old winemaking history. In Salzburg you can find a glass all over

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town, but start at Glüxfall, which transforms into one of the city’s best wine bars after dark, or Fridrich, which pairs its wines with a quirky soundtrack that veers from jazz to movie tunes.

Beer lovers should grab a stoneware stein at Augustinerbräu, one of the largest beer cellars in Europe. Tradition dictates communal tables, wooden kegs and zealously following its centuries-old recipe for Märzen beer. It’s been drawing locals and visitors alike since the 13th century. But there’s also the “newcomer”: Brewery Stiegl-Brauwelt, founded as recently as 1492!

Club life centers within the “Bermuda Triangle” between Steingasse and Imbergstrasse. Find popular discos like Half Moon at Gstättengasse and Rudolfskai. Salzburg also has a thriving LGBTQ scene. The most popular spot, MEXXX Gay Bar, right on the main street, Schallmooser, next to Kapuzinerberg hill, offers frequent discounts on drinks, including happy hour on Fridays and Saturdays.

For classical music events, which take place nearly every night, check with the tourist office. And hip Rockhouse, formerly a wine cellar in the 1840s, is now a premier alternative music spot, proving it’s not all Mozart in this lively little town.

AUSTRIAN ATMOSPHERE:

Gablerbräu (left), and Salzburg with a view of Hohensalzburg Fortress (right) PHOTOS: © MARIAGROTH | DREAMSTIME.COM, © GINASANDERS | DREAMSTIME.COM

g meanin , g r u b z s Sal s,” owe s e r t r o “salt f to the e m a n its ges ng bar i y r r a salt-c ied the that pl r in h Rive c a z l a S y centur h t h g i the e t to subjec e r e w and y. the cit n i s e tax

neighborhoods | GUJARAT

GUJARATI HERITAGE:

Ahir women (left), and the House of MG ( right) PHOTOS: © BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY

Inspired in India Delve into the rich heritage of Old Ahmedabad. BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY

Gujarat India

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ROOTED IN HISTORY, WITH a Gujarati culture that spans millennia, Ahmedabad, or “Amdavad,” is situated in India’s westernmost state of Gujarat at the crossroads of Persian and Indian influences.

Wanderlusters and those who crave a quieter experience over frenzied Mumbai or Delhi arrive at the dusty doorstep of the former capital to discover a dynamic compact city where family life provides the foundation.

People who pass through this part of vegetarian-dominant India discover cultural traditions are the norm, so besides encountering many meatless dishes, good luck finding liquor in Gujarat. Residents here abstain from drinking spirits or alcohol of any kind. The dry state, however, recently loosened this strict liquor law for its foreign visitors. The Hindustan Times reports 52 hotels now have liquor licenses for guests, who need to present a valid photo ID and arrival ticket for boozy purchases.

Nicknamed “Manchester of the East” for its booming textile business located along the Sabarmati River, this city also claims fame as the birthplace of its favorite son, the Gujarati-born Mahatma Gandhi, and the Indian Independence Movement. In 1930 Gandhi staged the spectacular nonviolent Salt March from his ashram in Ahmedabad to the coastal village of Dandi.

For sightseeing, enroll in a guided city tour and use the services of a professional tour operator. Rhumit Meta, founder of New Yorkheadquartered Immersion Journeys, develops custom tours of Gujarat for luxury and academic clients. “Ahmedabad, and Gujarat in general, is not on your regular tourist track, so you need someone who can do a deep dive into textiles and heritage,” he says.

A good neighborhood sampler starts at a restored historic property,

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once the home of a wealthy textile merchant, called The House of MG. As in the sleeper film The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, find endearing customer service with an Old World charm. Located in the old town, the property marks the start of most heritage walks. You’ll make a mental note of the fabulous dinner options at the boutique hotel’s rooftop resto, Agashiye, featuring fine Gujarati Thali cuisine. Guests dine beneath the stars at this lofty perch served by attentive dhoti- and kurta-clad waiters.

The first stop: Sidi Saiyyed Mosque, built in 1573.

Tourists visit the landmark to view the city’s unofficial symbol, the beautifully carved Tree of Life jali (latticework). Afterward, take a short walk south along Bhadra Road to the Bhadra Fort. Inside the walled city of Old Ahmedabad looms this 600-year-old fort, showing vestiges of the early Mughal period. Next door see the Bhadrakali Mandir, a colorful Hindu temple devoted to the goddess Bhadrakali Mata. Now walk a few blocks east to the Jama Masjid, revered as the city’s finest mosque, built in 1423 by Sultan Ahmed Shah, the city’s founder.

Meanwhile, around the Old City, life teems with the energy of commerce as waves of humanity funnel through the narrow pols (streets) into blazing bazaars bursting in color while beasts of burden slumber in traffic, oblivious to the mayhem. Time stands still.

For the last leg in this neighborhood odyssey, cross the river and visit Gandhi’s Sabarmati Ashram, where the spiritual and political leader stayed and preached his nonviolent ideology. Located on the banks of the Sabarmati River, inspired by the man himself, the ashram, now a museum, is a peaceful enclave.

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friends & family | FINGER LAKES

Earthly Delights Sample the simple pleasures of New York’s Finger Lakes Wine Country. BY BARBARA RADCLIFFE ROGERS VINE TO WINE:

A perfect place for a glass of wine at Imagine Moore Winery, Naples PHOTO: © STILLMAN ROGERS PHOTOGRAPHY

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ONE LOOK AT A MAP OF UPSTATE New York quickly explains how the Finger Lakes got their name. Native Americans who first cultivated their sun-swept shores thought the long, narrow waters looked like the imprint of a celestial hand; and although geologists have a different explanation for their shape, the name stuck.

Today the Finger Lakes name is associated with wine, especially Riesling, but increasingly with other European and American varieties including Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir.

The first person to suggest planting vineyards here for wine was the early-16th-century Italian explorer Giovanni Verrazano, on seeing the wild grapes that covered the sloping shores so profusely.

But it was a long time before wine-worthy grapes could survive the northern winters. It wasn’t until the mid-1800s that commercialAUGUST 2017

quality wine began to be produced here.

Production — along with quality — increased rapidly in the early 1980s with the opening of dozens of new wineries.

Today the Finger Lakes AVA (American Viticultural Area) includes 11,000 acres of vineyards, and Finger Lakes wines consistently win international awards.

Because most of the wineries are small and family-owned, each has its own character and reason to visit. This makes the Finger Lakes region especially attractive to groups of friends looking for a getaway. Wine trails make it easy to plan itineraries that circle each of the major lakes and give a sampling not only of the wines but of other local products and attractions.

Whether it’s a weekend add-on to a business trip or a convivial multiday getaway, you and your friends will find plenty to do.

Wine trails that connect wineries around the lakes of Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca and Cayuga may also include some of the craft breweries, cideries and distilleries that have opened in the past few years. You can learn about wine pairing, see how wines are made, walk in the vineyards, picnic on terraces overlooking the lakes and even listen to live music as you sip.

Tasting rooms vary from a century-old barn or 200-year-

GRAND ESTATES:

Belhurst Castle exterior (top) and tasting room (bottom left), and dining alfresco at Geneva On The Lake, Geneva (bottom right)

PHOTOS: © BELHURST CASTLE, STILLMAN ROGERS PHOTOGRAPHY

LODGING

BELHURST CASTLE CHAMBERS HOTEL Antiques and fine art decorate the historic stone castle overlooking Seneca Lake, where guests are invited to relax with a glass of the estate’s own wine from the complimentary wine spigot.

4069 West Lake Road, Geneva $$$$ THE INN AT GLENORA WINE CELLARS Rooms with Stickley furniture have private balconies overlooking vineyards and Seneca Lake, and guests get a complimentary bottle of wine and tastings at the winery.

5435 N.Y. Route 14, Dundee $$$

old Greek Revival home to one inspired by an Irish pub, and each winery offers a different experience. Imagine Moore Winery, in Naples, focuses on sustainability from the vines to the tasting room, using recycled materials and sustainable practices. Arbor Hill Grapery, also in Naples, is known for its wide selection of local foods and gift baskets.

Along with wine, Americana Vineyards produces 20 varieties of fudge and serves lunch at its Crystal Lake Café.

There’s live music year-round on Fridays (6–8 p.m.) and Sundays (4–6 p.m.). Barnstormer Winery on Seneca Lake also hosts live music throughout the year in its tasting room.

Goose Watch Winery produces several wines that are unusual in the Finger Lakes, such as Aromella, Viognier and Pinot Grigio, while Knapp Winery in Romulus makes méthode Champenoise sparkling wine. Its locally sourced restaurant is open for lunch and monthly wine-pairing dinners.

The Montezuma Winery began with honey wines and now produces fruit and grape wines as well. Varick Winery in Romulus has a cherry orchard and sells its own fruit jellies in the tasting room. Casa Larga Vineyards offers an Italian flair and makes ice wines and sparkling wine.

The impressively grand Belhurst Castle, a Lake Geneva landmark built in the 1880s, is home to Belhurst Estate Winery along with two restaurants, a hotel and a spa. Several other wineries include inns or guestrooms, and a few have restaurants, although most of these only serve until 5 p.m.

Celebrating not just the wines but all the products of New York’s rich agricultural bounty, the New York Wine and Culinary Center is an engaging combination of tasting room, demonstration kitchen and boutique of all things food and wine. Check its busy schedule and learn about wine and beer pairings or hone your cooking skills in everything from pasta-making to sushi rolling.

THE INN AT VARICK WINERY & VINEYARD With sweeping views over Cayuga Lake, the 1833 stone farmhouse is surrounded by vineyards and orchards; the inn offers guests complimentary afternoon hors d’oeuvres and wine.

5102 N.Y. Route 89, Romulus $$$$

iers glac ravines g n edi ng e Rec e lo h t ecam b d e y l carv entual es, v e Lak t r a e h t ing 11 F ep as e h t de e as m o s . feet 600

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DINING

NATURE’S BOUNTY:

Rainbow Falls at Watkins Glen State Park (left), Seneca Indian elm bark longhouse at Ganondagan State Historic Site (top right), and peaches at a roadside farm stand (bottom right) PHOTOS: © LIZ VAN STEENBURGH | DREAMSTIME.COM, © STILLMAN ROGERS PHOTOGRAPHY

INFO TO GO

Two airports serve the region: Syracuse Hancock International and Rochester International. Diamonds Limousine and Transportation Services or Metropolitan Limousines can provide transfers to lodging throughout the area, and custom tours can pick you up for winery visits, but a rental car is the best way to get around.

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If no one wants to volunteer as a designated driver to travel the wine trails, consider booking with one of the various ride services or signing onto a wine tour. Crush Beer & Wine Tours offers morning and afternoon group departures, or you can choose a customized experience, traveling at your own pace with Grapevine Country Tours. Finger Lakes Winery Tours has either option, while Charles Limousine Service offers a personalized winery tour — you choose, or he will suggest wineries based on your interests — in a Grand Caravan that seats up to six.

Another option is to hire a professional local chauffeur from Main Street Designated Drivers & Wine Tours who will drive your own vehicle on a guided winery tour. A unique way to visit wineries without driving — and to get beautiful lake views as well — is on the daily five-hour winery tours by boat with Water to Wine Tours, departing from Interlaken and Aurora each day at 11 a.m.

Even the most dedicated oenophile will want to do more than visit wineries, and there are plenty of options. Provision a picnic at one of the many farm stands that line the roads and hit some of the 2,000 miles of hiking and bike trails that lead to sweeping lake views and more than 1,000 waterfalls and gorges. Most famous of these are in Watkins Glen State Park, where a two-mile hike leads past 19 waterfalls.

Hundreds of historic sites and landmarks reach as far back as the 1600s. At the Seneca village of Ganondagan you can visit an authentic, full-sized replica of a longhouse, furnished inside with the implements of daily life. Or head to Seneca Falls, where early suffragettes gathered for the first national women’s rights convention in 1848, and visit the Women’s Rights National Historical Park and National Women’s Hall of Fame.

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GENEVA ON THE LAKE Savor candlelight dinners with music on the terrace in the summer or in the elegant dining room of this lovely villa overlooking the lake.

1001 Lochland Road, Geneva $$$$ THE UPSTAIRS BISTRO Eating and drinking local and celebrating the abundance of New York’s harvest is what this lively bistro at the New York Wine & Culinary Center is all about.

800 S. Main St., Canandaigua $$ VERAISONS RESTAURANT The local terroir is just as important to the chef of this vineyard restaurant as it is to the estate’s vintners. All the meats, produce and cheese are from local farms.

The Inn at Glenora Wine Cellars, 5435 N.Y. Route 14, Dundee $$$

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bucket list | POMPEII

Moment in Time Explore ancient Roman life preserved in the ashes of Pompeii. BY SUSAN VAN ALLEN

UNEARTHED: (Left to right) Street in Pompeii, body cast of a woman who died in the eruption, restorers of Casa dell'Orso Ferito, Teatro Piccolo, and grapes at Sorrentino Vini PHOTOS: © SCALIGER | DREAMSTIME.COM, © PRESS OFFICE, SOPRINTENDENZA ARCHEOLOGICA DI POMPEI, © SORRENTINO VINI WINERY

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TO BE IMMERSED IN A PLACE that 2,000 years ago was halted forever in time is one of the world’s most awe-inspiring travel experiences. Such are the ruins of Pompeii in Italy, south of Naples. Within the five square miles of this former vibrant port town, the fascinating story of how ancient Romans lived, thrived and suddenly died during the volcanic eruption of Mount Vesuvius in the year 79 has captivated travelers for centuries.

Pliny the Younger, an eyewitness survivor of the explosion, described in letters a shocking scene on that long-ago August day, when a plume in the shape of an umbrella pine tree emerged from the mountain, a dark cloud poured across the land, screaming residents struggled to flee and, finally, when the mayhem stopped: “The sight that met our terrified eyes was a changed world, buried in ash like snow.”

Pompeii remained buried under 30 feet of ash until the mid-18th century, when farmers digging for water accidentally came upon the ruins of Herculaneum, a smaller nearby town also destroyed by the Mount Vesuvius eruption.

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With much curiosity, Pompeii excavations began in 1748, and over the centuries archaeologists uncovered splendid treasures amid its densely packed buildings: sumptuously frescoed villas with intricate mosaic floors and sculptures along with bars, bakeries, laundries and shops. The town had a great social scene — there are three theaters (one for music, another for plays, a large amphitheater for gladiator games) and a brothel with entertaining frescos that illustrate services offered. In classic Roman style, there is an impressive forum — their version of a public square — with marketplaces and temples to honor the gods, as well as bathing establishments with the remains of intricate heating systems.

What draws visitors in emotionally to Pompeii are the skeletons that have been preserved as plaster casts. They are figures caught in terrifying moments before their death: a man crouched with hands overhead, a woman in the midst of a horrific scream, a twisted dog. “Though it may at first appear morbid, these figures tell us personal stories and bring a deeper element of humanity to

INFO TO GO

Domestic and international flights arrive at Naples International Airport, about 18 miles north of Pompeii. Bus service to Pompeii costs about $13, taxis about $52. There is also the Circumvesuviana train from Naples city center or the newer Campania Express. Purchase the Campania>ArteCard online for entrance to museums and archaeological sites in the region.

someone’s experience of Pompeii,” says Fiorella Squillante, a guide for the Vesuvius vs Pompeii tour company.

About 2.5 million travelers visit Pompeii annually. As its paths are labyrinthine and highlights spread over its 163 acres, having a good guide is necessary for a fulfilling experience. Vesuvius vs Pompeii is an excellent, full-service choice.

“Now is the best time to visit Pompeii in decades,” says Squillante. Thanks to the recent Great Pompeii Project that put millions of euros toward restoration, buildings that had been closed for a long time finally reopened — such as the luxurious House of the Vettii and House of Venus, which features a gorgeous garden fresco of the goddess lounging on a clam shell. Also freshly restored are the extensive laundry establishment, Fullonica of Stephanus, and House of the Bear, a former wealthy man’s residence featuring fabulous mosaics.

Vesuvius vs Pompeii guides are native Neapolitans, passionate about sharing their homeland with travelers. “All our tours are customized according to the client, and we love to work with families, so adults and children have an experience in Pompeii they will never forget,” says Squillante. “We give drawing classes to the little ones and can provide for the disabled. Most importantly, our tours tell stories. As we move

along, you’ll see details of ancient graffiti that many travelers miss, we’ll let you in on the spicy stories of Pompeii residents, tell you about the social life, how slaves and women fit into the fabric of 79 A.D. society here.”

The company also offers tours of the Naples Archaeological Museum, which displays treasured frescos, mosaics and artifacts from Pompeii. And guides love to share with you the culinary pleasures of the region, from the best pizza in Naples to delicious pastas and pastries.

Thanks to fertile volcanic soil on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, wineries have flourished here since the days of the Roman Empire. Following that great tradition, just 10 minutes from Pompeii you’ll discover Sorrentino Winery, family-run for three generations. It produces award-winning wines that range from the classic red Lacryma Christi to white Falanghina, as well as innovative sparkling wines. The warm and welcoming staff provides transportation to and from the Pompeii site, so you can visit for a delicious lunch with wine tasting.

Then you are free to stroll through the vineyards, taking in the stunning view of Mount Vesuvius, the powerful force of Mother Nature that both destroyed and abundantly nurtured this beautiful land.

mes st ti e b e Th peii Pom t i s i to v ing morn y l r a n, are e ernoo t f a late and are wds o r c when mps nd te a r e l smal . ooler are c

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kicking back | TAHITI

Passion in Paradise Make a heavenly escape to Tahiti’s far-flung islands. BY BECCA HENSLEY LIKE AN APHRODISIAC, TAHITI SEDUCES. That makes it the perfect place to plan a romantic getaway — perhaps even a wedding or vow renewal. Seas splotched with a bevy of blue hues, towering jade green volcanoes, snow-white beaches and a deeply entrenched French culture (think wine) combine to make this South Pacific getaway one of the most impassioned places on Earth.

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Given that all of Tahiti’s 120 islands exude a vibe for endearment, ardent adventures come naturally here. While many explore the heart-shaped Moorea just a ferry ride from the main island, lounge about in an overwater bungalow amid the limpid lagoon of Bora Bora or play Robinson Crusoe on farther-flung, diminutive places such as tiny Tikehau, any stay in French Polynesia will awaken the lover within. But why not take the deserted island motif a step further and discover Tahiti’s Hidden Paradise Islands?

In the spirit of Tahitian friendliness, the main town on the island of Huahine is dubbed Maeva, meaning “welcome.” With a 20-mile sinuous road running beside small hamlets and ascending high into the hills, the sparsely occupied island — actually two motus joined by a bridge — boasts stellar views of crystalline, azure lagoons and cloud-white beaches. At intervals, restored Tahitian temples, called marae, and ancient, stone fish traps portray the island’s culture. Pastoral soil, fertile enough for watermelon and cantaloupe farms, also vaunts groves of bananas and mangos. Ubiquitous coffee and vanilla plantations, too, waft their ice cream shop-worthy perfume. In autumn, cheer on the paddlers in the world’s largest outrigger canoe race, the Hawaiki Nui Va’a. Surfers can contemplate joining the pros at Ayamoa Pass, where huge waves beckon.

Two other Hidden Paradise islands, like sister land masses, share the same barrier reef. Taha’a, the “Vanilla Island,” brims with plantations, all emitting an intoxicating

CRYSTAL CLEAR:

Footbridge across a lagoon at Tetamanu on Fakarava in the Tuamotu archipelago (left), and shark underwater at Tiputa Pass, Rangiroa atoll (right) PHOTOS: © ITIMAGES | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SEAPHOTOART | DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING

HOTEL KIA ORA RESORT AND SPA An oasis of stand-alone cottages on the bluest body of water imaginable, this cosseting hotel regales guests with superior French fusion cuisine and a state-ofthe-art spa.

Avatoru, Rangiroa $$$$$ VAHINE ISLAND RESORT AND SPA This 23-acre, private island resort, a Small Luxury Hotel of the World, offers an intimate castaway fantasy with just nine suites, three over the water. Breathtaking sunsets over Bora Bora in the distance seal the deal.

aroma. Numbering just 4,000, the inhabitants excel at fishing in the lagoon and take the opportunity each November to participate in a fascinating stone fishing tournament. Using a centuries-old method, competitors wade into the transparent water, disturbing its mirror-like glow with stones tied to ropes.

As they beat the water, they scare the fish, sending their prey ashore.

Raiatea, where the storied kings of Tahiti once congregated, remains a site of ceremony and ritual, sacred to this day to Tahitians. Today, islanders re-enact history for visitors at a local marae, honoring the traditions of the ancestors. This sacred island holds the only navigable river in French Polynesia, which locals and tourists alike cruise in outrigger canoes. Plan to sail, deep-sea fish or explore the slopes of Mount Temehani, where the rare tiare apetahi grows. Legendary, this flower features five petals, said to represent the hand of a Tahitian maiden who fell in love with a Tahitian prince. Walk at dawn to hear the flower opening, its sputtering sound poetically explained as the echo of her broken heart.

Northeast of Tahiti, the Tuamotu stretches out across more

than 7,500 miles of sea. Comprising 76 islands, Tuamotu holds four atolls, island chains formed from coral. Rangiroa, the second-largest atoll in the world and one of French Polynesia’s most celebrated, easily earns its nickname, the “infinite lagoon.”

Thanks to its coral ring, Rangiroa bewitches with its eyepopping array of blues, a watery expanse of cobalt, lapis and turquoise. Here, the greatest shark dive area in the world awaits at Tiputa Pass. Immersed, divers spy legions of lemon, nurse, black-tip, white-tip and gray sharks. Atop, snorkelers won’t miss out, as views boggle the mind. Expect to see scores of dolphins at play. With a terroir some liken to Burgundy, Rangiroa also produces its own wine. Small-production vineyards have been most successful with Muscat and Carignan grapes.

Instituting the first pearl farm, Manihi, another Hidden Paradise isle, set the standard for pearl farming across Tahiti.

Here, black-lipped oysters continue to yield prized black pearls.

Tikehau, 10 miles from Rangiroa, part of Tuamotu, boasts pink-sand beaches and exceptional scuba opportunities. Manta ray, barracuda and sea turtle sightings go without saying. Quiet, low-key, undeveloped Tikehau epitomizes the harried city visi-

AUGUST 2017

Vahine Island, Taha’a $$$$ TIKEHAU PEARL RESORT A sleepy, subtly luxurious hotel with overwater bungalows and beachside casitas, this Frenchintoned, eco-resort-style, deserted island retreat takes you to bliss.

Tikehau $$$$

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NATURAL BEAUTY:

A hawksbill sea turtle, feeding on a coral reef in the Tikehau atoll (top), and black pearl (bottom) PHOTOS: © SEAPHOTOART | DREAMSTIME .COM, © RICHARD THOMAS | DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING

OPOA BEACH RESTAURANT Located seaside, the farm-to-table restaurant serves Raiatea’s bounty.

Enjoy house-baked pastries in the morning and candlelit, seafoodbased dinners at night.

Opoa Beach Hotel, Uturoa, Raiatea $$$ LES RELAIS DE JOSÉPHINE Look out from this small inn across the Tiputa Pass to see dolphins crossing as you dine at its stellar, Frenchsavvy restaurant with an intimate, romantic ambience. Great place to taste Rangiroa wines.

Avatoru, Rangiroa $$ YVONNE’S On the largest of the Marquesas Islands, rollicking Yvonne’s serves huge portions of home-cooked seafood and sandwiches, ideal for lunch. Expect a roast pig and live music at this alfresco spot catering to locals and tourists.

tor’s vision of a slowed-down, carefree, tranquil dreamscape.

Exotic and farther-flung, the Marquesas Islands lie 930 miles northeast of Tahiti.

With a mysterious aura, they comprise 12 islands, with only six inhabited. Dramatic, they contrast starkly to much of French Polynesia as they lack lagoons. Dense jungle carpets mountainous terrain, and intense cliffs and soaring, 1,200-foot-high waterfalls compose the landscape. Difficult to access, the Marquesas offer lodging on the most populated islands, Hiva Oa and Nuku Hiva. Intrepid tourists can arrive via the Aranui 5, a working cargo ship and ferry, though flights from Papeete are available as well, five times a week. Art aficionados can pay homage to memories of Paul Gauguin, who painted and retired here.

Birders and nature fans won’t want to miss Fakarava, which locals refer to as the “Dream Island.” Part of a UNESCO biosphere reserve, its unusual ecosystem results in rare flora and fauna such as the Tuamotu palm and the hunting kingfisher. Pay a visit to the centuries-old village of Tetamanu, home to one of Tahiti’s first Catholic churches, circa 1862, constructed almost solely of coral.

Understandably, more and more travelers choose Tahiti for romantic getaways — including honeymoons, babymoons and destination weddings. While actual wedding ceremonies are legal for couples from many countries, including the United States and Canada, it’s easiest to exchange vows at home and plan a symbolic Tahitian ceremony in French Polynesia. In the Hidden Paradise Islands, the event includes such flourishes as arrival to the altar by dugout canoe, Tahitian drums, dancing, flowers in profusion and a veritable headdress-wearing local priest to lead the nuptials. Add some French wine, local fare with French flavors and overwater fantasy suites, and you’ve got the tropical soirée of your dreams.

Hatiheu, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas Islands $$

n arm lagoo ouvenir. W s t es b e a e th een. Tour earls mak ti, black p rcoal to gr hi a a ch T m o to s fr hue Indigenou your prize. ranging in n dive for cent gems ca es u o id y , ir y n te ea t ma waters cr Tikehau. A angiroa or R in m r pearl fa

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INFO TO GO

Most often called Tahiti, French Polynesia is found in the South Pacific, approximately eight hours by plane from the city of Los Angeles. It lies in the same time zone as Hawai’i. Fly Air Tahiti Nui, a French airline based in Papeete, Tahiti, which operates long-haul flights from its home base at Faa’a International Airport.

Travel between the islands is best achieved by ferry or short flight.

A number of airlines provide intra-island service, including Air Tahiti. Both Windstar and Paul Gauguin cruise lines offer trips among the five archipelagos which compose French Polynesia.

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friends & family | TUSCANY

GT Members Section

Tuscany lies at the center of Italy, with Pisa, Florence and Siena — a trio of Italy’s most popular tourist destinations — forming a triangle at its heart. Wine routes wind among its vineyards and between its hill towns where you can savor the region’s most famous products: Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Medieval towers of hilltop towns dot rolling landscapes of vineyards and poppy-splashed meadows. You can imagine yourself in the 13th century as you enter San Gimignano, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, preserving 13 of its original 70 tall towers.

Each hill town has its own character and story: Volterra preserves a rich Etruscan and Roman history, Montepulciano’s wealthy noble families attracted top Renaissance artists and architects, and little Montalcino sits inside well-preserved 12th-century walls. In Arezzo you can see the works of several of the greatest Renaissance masters without the crowds of Florence or Siena.

But for all its iconic sights, Tuscany is a supremely satisfying place to just kick back and relax with friends or

he new GT app is

BY BARBARA RADCLIFFE ROGERS

IN THE HILLS:

San Gimignano on the hill (left), and view from the tower (right)

PHOTOS: © YVON52 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © DRNOAH | DREAMSTIME.COM

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WHEN TUSCANS LIFT A GLASS OF their beloved Brunello di Montalcino and say, “Salute” — “To your health” — they mean it.

And they offer a lifestyle to make it possible. For amid those postcardperfect Tuscan hill towns flow thermal springs where Etruscans and Romans soaked, and where medieval pilgrims rested their weary legs en route to Rome.

Today these hot springs are fitted with luxurious trappings the sybaritic Romans would have envied. Spa resorts serve as perfect bases for Tuscan holidays that can include walking, cycling and other active ways of seeing the region’s many attractions. Full-scale health and wellness centers cater to those in need of a longer retreat.

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A monthly members-only newsletter includes a round-up of airline, airport and route news.

lgbtq

In Good Company Celebrate individuality in the world’s most gay-friendly city. BY MARK CHESNUT A RECENT ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN by the San Francisco travelers, from foodies to fashionistas. The most legendary neighborhood Travel Association carried a rather attention-getting line: “San for the LGBTQ community, of course, is the Castro, one of the nation’s Francisco’s gay neighborhood is called San Francisco.” And first true gay neighborhoods. It’s still a great place for a drink or a night that pretty much sums up the appeal of this city by the bay out, and it’s also home to the GLBT History Museum, which documents with LGBTQ travelers. the struggle for equality.

“San Francisco has been ground zero for much of the In addition to the annual pride event, which takes place at the end of struggle for LGBTQ rights,” June, San Francisco also hosts several other said Joe D’Alessandro, presi‘This is the birthplace of the rainbow popular annual LGBTQ festivals, including dent and CEO, San Francisco the Folsom Street Fair, billed as “the world’s flag and the AIDS Memorial Quilt.’

Travel Association. “This is the largest leather event,” in September, and birthplace of the rainbow flag Joe D’Alessandro, president and CEO, the Frameline LGBTQ Film Festival, which and the AIDS Memorial Quilt. brings a variety of noteworthy films to local San Francisco Travel Association San Francisco was the first screens in June. city in the nation to recognize As the tourism office loves to proclaim, everything in San Francisco is same-sex marriage and hosts the largest Pride Festival in the gay-friendly. But if you’re looking for small-scale, gay-owned accommodanation. In 1977 Harvey Milk became the first openly gay tions, one of the best choices is the Parker Guest House, a 21-room hotel elected official.” located in the Castro, with lovely Edwardian architecture and tastefully Indeed, San Francisco has lots to offer LGBTQ travelers. decorated guestrooms. For larger-scale luxury, the Grand Hyatt San D’Alessandro’s advice to visitors: “First of all, relax. You are Francisco and Hyatt Regency San Francisco are both members of the in the most gay-friendly city in the world. Here, individuality International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association. San Francisco-based Joie is celebrated, so experience being in the company of the de Vivre Hotels is another good gay-friendly option with several properties most diverse and creative community around.” in the city, including Hotel Rex, a centrally located Union Square hotel The San Francisco Travel site offers a variety of LGBTQ graced with contemporary art, and the hip Phoenix Hotel, located in the itineraries and recommendations to satisfy different types of Tenderloin district. In San Francisco, as the slogan implies, you’re staying in a gay area no matter where you are.

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RAINBOW CITY:

People crossing at the intersection of Castro and 18th streets in the heart of the gay village (left), and the San Francisco Lesbian/ Gay Freedom Band performing in the San Francisco Gay Pride Parade (right) PHOTOS: © LEMBI BUCHANAN | DREAMSTIME .COM, © LAWRENCE WESLOWSKI JR | DREAMSTIME.COM

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airport update

Key Player One of Europe’s most important gateways, Madrid-Barajas connects the world.

SITUATED LESS THAN EIGHT MILES from Madrid’s bustling and historic city center lies Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas Airport, commonly known as MadridBarajas. As Europe’s largest airport at 7,500 acres, Madrid-Barajas accommodates exceptionally large numbers of passengers each year, with 50.4 million served in 2016 alone.

The airport’s prime location serves as the gateway to the Iberian Peninsula from the rest of Europe and the world and provides a particularly important link between Europe and Latin America.

The airport features four passenger terminals, the Executive Terminal for executive and business aviation, one cargo area and two main hangar areas.

The facility underwent a major $22 million refurbishment and expansion of terminal T4 and satellite terminal T4S beginning in 2012, adding nearly 166,000 square feet of new commercial space, including 47 new restaurants; The Fashion Gallery, the largest luxury retail store in a European airport; and Air Rooms Madrid, an airport hotel. The new terminal includes metro and rail stations, landside transit links to the existing terminals and a system linking the core terminal with the satellite — just a few of several conveniences installed for passengers over the past few years.

Due to its size and location, Madrid-Barajas is an important hub for several of the world’s largest airlines. The airport serves as a primary hub for Iberia, Spain’s flag carrier airline responsible for 40 percent of the airport’s traffic. Other major airlines that set up shop at Madrid include Aeroflot, Air Canada, British Airways, Delta Air Lines, United Airlines, Emirates and Qatar Airways.

In May American Airlines launched flights between MadridBarajas and Charlotte, N.C. (CLT), bringing the airline’s operation to 70 weekly flights between Spain and the United States from Madrid and Barcelona (BCN). Also in recent news, Air Europa launched its new Boeing Dreamliner 787-8 on the airline’s Madrid–Lima (LIM) route. All Air Europa flights, European and long-haul, arrive and depart from Madrid-Barajas’ Terminal T1.

In addition to its prime location, Madrid-Barajas is

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frequently recognized for its operational, security and customer successes. In March the airport fared well in Skytrax’s list of top 100 airports in the world, named Best Southern European Airport. It also ranked fifth-best terminal in the world for its refurbished and impressive T4 terminal.

Following this significant achievement, Madrid-Barajas ranked first in the Airport Council International’s Best in Europe Awards in the category for 25-plus million passengers a year. ACI judges marked each airport on criteria including facilities, customer service and experience, security, airline operations and retail. The airport won praise for its strategy to boost air connectivity between Europe and South America and for the continuous introduction of advanced technical innovations. It was also lauded for its community relations and its diverse environmental initiatives, such as its Environmental Management System that includes a stratified cooling system and the collection of rainwater to irrigate the surrounding landscape.

Madrid-Barajas’ recent operational and environmental efforts, its massive T4 and T4S terminals and its convenient location are only a few of the factors contributing to the airport’s ranking as one of the most important in Europe over the past several years.

BY NICOLE QUASTÉ

TAKING FLIGHT:

Adolfo Suárez MadridBarajas Airport PHOTO: © MADRUGADAVERDE | DREAMSTIME.COM

ADOLFO SUÁREZ MADRID-BARAJAS AIRPORT aena.es

health

Essence of Life Stay hydrated, stay healthy at home and abroad. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN WATER IS ESSENTIAL FOR LIFE. Approximately 60 percent of the human body is made of water.

The brain and heart are composed of 73 percent water while the lungs are about 83 percent. Water is simple and, one hopes, pure. We often take it for granted until we are in a situation where fresh drinking water is scarce or unavailable.

The knowledgeable traveler is mindful of the body’s water requirements. Air travel and travel in general create an increased need for hydration. Not only do travelers experience physiological changes related to an increase in altitude and cabin pressure, they are also exposed to low moisture levels. Aircraft cabin humidity levels are unnaturally low, about 5–10 percent, creating an environment with less humidity than the Sahara Desert.

Dehydration also exaggerates jet lag. Symptoms of dehydration may include dry or chapped skin, increased wrinkles, dry eyes, thirst, tiredness, low urine output, dry mouth, headache, constipation, dizziness or lightheadedness. Severe dehydration may result in low blood pressure, rapid heartbeat, extreme thirst, dry skin, loss of skin elasticity, little or no urination, confusion and fever. Research shows adequate water intake may prevent deep vein thrombosis (blood clots in your legs), pulmonary embolism (blood clot in your lungs) or heart attacks, especially when traveling.

Increase your daily water consumption to stay healthy at home or during travel. One of the most important habits to cultivate is drinking two 8-ounce glasses of warm or room-temperature water upon awakening. Drinking water in the morning proves an effective energy booster.

To experience the positive benefits of adequate hydration, tune into your thirst cues. Many

people actually eat when they are thirsty instead of providing their body with water. To encourage water intake, fill a bottle or pitcher with your daily water requirement in the morning and drink it throughout the day. Set it on the counter where you will see it and be reminded to drink.

While traveling and during flight, drink at least 8 ounces of water per hour and avoid drinking alcohol, which dehydrates your body. The body uses water to process other beverages we consume. Increased water intake may send you to the bathroom more frequently, but think of it as exercise. There is conflicting evidence whether or not caffeine-containing beverages have a diuretic effect, but excessive intake can cause dehydration.

After a long flight, replenish body water and relieve some travel stress by soaking in a hot tub, pool or bath. By immersing your entire body, even your head, you can replenish moisture directly through your pores.

How much water is enough? On average, adults need six to 10 cups (8-ounce cups) of water a day. Determine if you are drinking enough by noting the color of your urine output. If it is clear or slightly yellow, you are well-hydrated. Some individuals with medical conditions such as kidney failure or congestive heart failure cannot tolerate the recommended level of water intake. Consult your physician regarding your personal health needs.

Drink as much water as possible in the days leading up to your trip. Consider bringing a refillable bottle on your trip and filling it at your gate. Many gates now provide stations where you can fill a reusable bottle in order to prevent the plastic from going to landfills. Others haven’t caught on to this trend, so you may have to buy a

bottle or fill it in a bathroom sink.

Remember all destinations do not have clean drinking water from the tap and you might need a filtration system. Or invest in bottled water at your home airport, or drink sport beverages high in electrolytes such as Gatorade, Powerade and Lucozade; 100 Plus is a popular hydrating option in Singapore, Malaysia and other parts of Asia.

Also drink these once you land to rehydrate.

In flight, try products like 1Above, a beverage created for staying hydrated while flying. You can also bring mixes to add to your water; Pedialyte is made for children but is great for its rehydrating quality. Products by Nuun or CLIF add both flavor and electrolytes to plain water.

When it comes to drinking in flight, remember your senses are deadened while flying.

You might want something with extra flavor like tomato juice or club soda. Coconut water is another good choice to bring on board or purchase, as it is almost as good for you as water.

Fruits and smoothies are another great option; you can usually find a Jamba Juice or similar outlet at major airports.

When traveling in third-world countries, drink only bottled water or sealed energy drinks; bottled or canned soda; hot drinks such as coffee or tea; or water that has been boiled, filtered or treated. Do not drink tap or well water, fountain drinks, ice made with tap or well water and drinks made with tap or well water such as reconstituted juice. Contaminated drinking water is a leading source of health problems for travelers and can cause anything from mild gastrointestinal distress to serious bacterial diseases. See your health care provider or a travel medicine clinic before you leave to determine if you need vaccinations or medications for your destination.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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past & present

Casa Larga Vineyards & Winery, located just outside of Rochester, N.Y., in the Finger Lakes region, was established in 1974 by Andrew and Ann Colaruotolo, affectionately known as Mr. and Mrs. C. Before immigrating to the United States, Mr. C. worked on his grandparents' farms in the Gaeta region of Italy, where each of the small farms specialized in a different product such as olives, cheese and citrus fruit.

He named his New York winery Casa Larga after the Italian farm that grew grapes and made wine. The vineyard has grown and flourished since Mr. C. first planted two acres of grapes on a hill in Fairport.

Although Mr. and Mrs. C. have both passed on, their three children, Andrea, Mary Jo and John, keep their legacy alive.

Photos show Mr. C. grafting wines and in the vineyard, and views of the vineyard and winery today.

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PHOTOS: Š CASA LARGA VINEYARDS

Casa Larga Vineyards & Winery