April/May 2021 Global Traveler

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April/May 2021

BUENOS AIRES p. 58 COZUMEL p. 72 DOHA p. 62 KIAWAH ISLAND p. 70 OSLO p. 60 SAVANNAH p. 54 SINGAPORE p. 48 TOKYO p. 56 VIRGINIA BEACH p. 68

ROMANCE ON THE RIVER Take to the water and explore Budapest’s splendor at a leisurely pace. p. 64

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR ®

Turning the Page

Safe Haven: Kimberly during her visit to the elephant sanctuary in Thailand PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL INLANDER

B

y the time you read this letter, I, alongside many of my colleagues and fellow travelers, will be fully vaccinated against COVID-19. Whether you received the Pfizer, Moderna or Johnson & Johnson version, individual experiences vary. Feel free to share your vaccination experiences with us by emailing letters@globaltravelerusa.com. For more on the vaccine and what it means for the travel industry, check out Karin Leperi’s report on page 38.

As more and more vaccines become available and summer is upon us, more and more of us are getting back to the art of travel … or at least to planning for an upcoming vacation. Several of our beloved freelancers, some of the most intrepid travelers we know, spent some of the COVID downtime working on fantastic new reads for the whole family. Here are some book recommendations for your summer travels!

Kristy Alpert’s new book, Road Trip Activities and Travel Journal for Kids (Happy Fox Books, May 2021), celebrates the adventure of being on the road and will inspire kids to reignite their own imaginations and make memories they’ll keep for the rest of their lives. Her engaging book is filled with fun car games,

puzzles, writing prompts, questionnaires, daydreaming prompts, scavenger hunts, brainteasers and so much more. Enjoy the journey as much as the destination! Get your copy at www.kristyalpert .com or wherever books are sold.

Longtime Global Traveler contributor Steve Jermanok took advantage of his time at home last year to publish New England in a Nutshell.

Jermanok distilled the 700 or so stories he’s penned on the region this past quarter-century down to a readable round-up format. The more than 50 categories include 10 Classic New England Hikes, 8 Summer Drives That Will Keep You Smiling, 6 Favorite Lobster/ Clam Shacks, and a whole lot more. It’s ideally suited for exploring the region this summer or fall. The book can be found on Amazon.

If you long to shove your toes into the sand in a tropical destination, columnist and longtime Global Traveler contributor Debra Bokur offers her Dark Paradise Mysteries series, set in Hawai’i. The latest in the series, The Bone Field, finds Detective Kali Māhoe once again using her knowledge of Hawai’i’s lore and legends to solve a crime. This time, a headless skeleton is found in a pineapple field, the skull replaced by an ornately carved wooden pineapple. This macabre discovery leads to a series of strange cold-case ritual murders and puts Kali on a winding trail pointing to legends, vengeful spirits and the human monsters hiding out in paradise.

My photo this month is in honor of Richard Newton’s report on page 42 about unique wildlife encounters around the world. Always remember the most important part of any wildlife encounter is to first and foremost respect the animal and its natural environment. The elephant sanctuary I visited in Thailand was dedicated to saving the animals from logging.

This issue also takes us to Singapore, Savannah, Tokyo, Buenos Aires, Oslo, Doha, Budapest, Virginia Beach, Kiawah Island and Cozumel.

Join us next month for our Leisure Lifestyle Edition and the winners of the 2021 Leisure Lifestyle Awards.

Until then, safe travels!

EDITORIAL Editor In Chief Kimberly Krol Inlander kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com Vice President/Digital Director Katie Skrzek katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor Janice Hecht jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor Patricia Vanikiotis patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Social Media & Editorial Coordinator Mary Melnick mary.melnick@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor Audrey Lee audrey.lee@globaltravelerusa.com

ART Art Director Tracey Cullen tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer Christopher P. Ottaunick christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor Vance Piccin

COLUMNISTS Margaret Backenheimer Debra Bokur J.D. Brown Mark Chesnut Jack Guy Kelly Magyarics Kevin Ryan

WRITERS Ari Bendersky Ron Bernthal Becca Hensley Ilona Kauremszky Dale Leatherman Karin Leperi Gregory D. McCluney Richard Newton Jan Schroder

For complete bios visit globaltravelerusa.com

CIRCULATION Specialists John Wroblewski, Louie Atsaves Managers Jayhawk Evans, Mark P. Ford, Teresa Jackson, Anthony “Scraps” Dimera Circulation Director Michele Shannon Circulation Manager Anna Pudzianowski Research Consultant Sharon Sterne

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman Michael Donahue COO Michael Kiely President Carlos Cappuccio Deputy Vice President Aviation Edward Jefferson Deputy Vice President Accommodations Stephen Doherty Deputy Director Destinations Wayne Tallman Vice President Special Events/Photography Christopher Ottaunick Secretary Mark Lane Research Director Frank LoVerme Director of Technology Bob Hancock Director of Digital Advancement Jared Torgan Vice President of Corporate Giving Jim Bolger

GENERAL COUNSEL Thomas F. Goldman CONTACT US General Inquiries/Issue Requests/Reprints info@globaltravelerusa.com Subscriptions tel 818 286 3134 | gbtcs@magserv.com Public Relations kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com Letters to the Editor letters@globaltravelerusa.com Global Traveler is published monthly by FXExpress Publications, Inc., 309 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067. The U.S. subscription rate is $42 for one year, $79.95 for two years, $121.95 for three years.

Kimberly Krol Inlander Editor in Chief

As of publication, the destinations and venues mentioned in this issue were planning to reopen or are currently operating, but many may have restrictions or limitations in place to address current public health concerns. Always check in advance to confirm current requirements and restrictions.

Postmaster: Please send changes of address to Global Traveler, 309 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067

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LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER ®

ADVERTISING Publisher/CEO Francis X. Gallagher tel 215 919 8988 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive Haley Fogarty tel 267 364 5811 | haley.fogarty@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive Southern Region and Caribbean Amanda Jones tel 702 945 7933 | amanda.jonesn@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive Mariana Zenizo tel 52 55 6560 1152 | marzenizo@gmail.com Production & Advertising Coordinator Yasser Ogando tel 267 884 1650 | yasser.ogando@globaltravelerusa.com

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Along for the Ride: Francis with one of his favorite four-legged travel companions PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

On the Road Again

L

ittle did we know a year ago we would be fighting the good fight against COVID-19 for so long. But nothing pleases me more than hearing so many people completed their vaccination series and should be on the road to normalcy.

And it has been an interesting road. As you know, some copies of Global Traveler are purchased for placement in many airline lounges in the United States. I am pleased sales of these copies continue to climb back to where they were prior to last April. Now that we are fully aware the virus has little to no transmission through paper and most surfaces, and with so many people vaccinated, we are excited to be back in the lounges. So if you forget your home copy, rest assured you can pick one up at the Delta Sky Club, the United Club and others.

During this turmoil we have seen many changes in the industry and many within our company. We are in the process of opening and staffing our newest office in Sarasota County, Florida, which will help us continue to grow our footprint in the Southern region of the United States, the Caribbean and South America. Feel free to stop in and see us — I promise the walls have been painted!

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We are excited to see the recent launch of the Chase Quest Card. The new $250-per-year card offers free first and second checked bags for the member and one companion; priority boarding; the ability to earn miles faster in the air and on the ground; flexible award options and ways to use miles including flights, hotels, car rentals and more; and a host of other benefits.

I am now rebooking last year’s lost trips and pleased to be thinking about where to spend my annual birthday trip. We planned to take a European river cruise last year, but the celebration shifted to time by the pool in Southwest Florida. Fun, but not the same.

Start planning where you want to go, get out of your comfort zone and travel. Discover the world of cultures and experiences you have been missing — #globility.

Indonesia Sarah Hutabarat tel 62 21 29704008 | sarah@mediaman.co.id Japan Yoshinori Ikeda tel 81 3 3661 6138 | yoshinori.ikeda@pacific-business.com Korea Jeff Hwang tel 82 31 702 7782 | cell 82 010 6347 9117 | gng@gngcom.co.kr Malaysia Ester Chai tel 60 3 7722 1968 | esther@fitzgerald.com.my Singapore Peggy Thay tel 65 6871 8964 | peggy.thay@pubintl.sg Slovak Republic (Eastern Europe) Zorka Sipkova tel 421 948094611 | zorka.sipkova@pubintl.eu Spain Olga Martínez tel 34 91 320 0497 | cell 34 669 10 12 73 olga.martinez@aboutim.es Taiwan Keith Lee tel 886 2 2523 8268 | leekh@ms4.hinet.net Thailand Janya Limmanee tel 66 2 0514694 | janya.l@jpp-thailand.com Turkey Elif Mengu cell 90 532 255 83 24| elif@catalyzismedia.com United Arab Emerates (UAE) Rosy Kachouh Nawfal cell 971 55 607 8163 | rosy@i-repme.com United Kingdom Stefanie Stroh-Begg cell 44 0 7798 665 395 | stefanie@mercury-publicity.com

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38 features

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April/May 2021

BUENOS AIRES p. 58 COZUMEL p. 72 DOHA p. 62 KIAWAH ISLAND p. 70 OSLO p. 60 SAVANNAH p. 54 SINGAPORE p. 48 TOKYO p. 56 VIRGINIA BEACH p. 68

38

Have Vaccine, Will Travel COVID-19 immunization may play a major role as we strive to return to travel.

42 ROMANCE ON THE RIVER Take to the water and explore Budapest’s splendor at a leisurely pace. p. 64

COVER PHOTO: SUNRISE AT FISHERMAN`S BASTION (HALÁSZBÁSTYA) IN BUDAPEST PHOTO: © ZOLTAN GABOR | DREAMSTIME.COM

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Close Encounters Share amazing moments with wildlife in destinations around the world.

business destinations 48

Destination One: Singapore Singapore forges ahead with investment in bold innovations.

54

Stateside: Savannah Plant Riverside District redefines Savannah’s riverfront.

56

MICE: Tokyo Immerse your team in modern and traditional Japanese culture in Tokyo.

58

9–5: Buenos Aires European sophistication meets Latin passion in Buenos Aires.

60

After 5: Oslo No matter the season, Oslo reveals a lively spirit.

PHOTO: © ATIT PHETMUANGTONG | DREAMSTIME.COM

April/May 2021

CONTENTS

Experiencing Seoul Get a taste of Korean culture through digital platforms before your future trip.

SEOUL CONVENTION BUREAU’S VIRTUAL SEOUL PLAYGROUND is the one and only virtual teambuilding program developed to add fun to online/hybrid events. Almost all workers have participated in online programs like webinars, e-conferences, online classes and more. With the Virtual Seoul Playground, participants can play stimulating teambuilding games in a metaverse Seoul.

The Virtual Seoul Playground joins Virtual Seoul and Seoul MICE World. Virtual Seoul is a platform where online/hybrid meetings or events are hosted with 360-degree, virtual-reality videos, a networking lounge, a promotional booth and more. All can be modified upon request according to the program of the events. Seoul MICE World is a promotional booth that can be linked to any online/hybrid event. The appearance is similar to the Virtual Seoul; however, Seoul MICE World was not designed to hold meetings. This is a digital version of a promotional booth to be set up for on-site events. Cultural activities and information about Seoul are prepared for participants to

enrich the online/hybrid events.

The idea for the Virtual Seoul Playground came from the many teambuilding programs MICE participants in Seoul came to know and love. Now, the excitement of these events comes to online MICE event attendees. The ultimate goal of SCB’s digital transformation is to invite more visitors to the city when travel restrictions are lifted in near future. Get a taste of Korean culture through the digital platforms: Avatars wear different hanbok from Korean dramas and the games implement traditional Korean activities and popular Korean food.

Some of the games include Yunnori, with the setting a square in front of city hall, always a highranking, most-visited site. Take turns throwing yut and moving markers made with popular tourist attractions accordingly. The team bringing all markers home wins the game. In Seoul Lantern, players solve a quiz on Seoul to earn different elements for making a lantern to their liking. The

setting for this activity is by the Hangang River, where many visitors cherish the night view. Or, make a gimbap. Gim is a seaweed sheet and bap is cooked rice. This popular food beloved my most Koreans can accommodate any preference in food. On the Virtual Seoul Playground, the basic style with vegetable and egg is prepared. Different teammates can work at different stations to deposit ingredients to make as many gimbap as possible. Cooperation is required to win the game.

Events and meetings may look different right now, but Seoul Convention Bureau ensures they can still be exciting, even virtually. And with Virtual Seoul Playground, the event will leave you ready to return to Seoul in person next time. Experience it yourself by visiting virtualseoul.or.kr

LEARN MORE AT miceseoul.com

April/May 2021

CONTENTS

in every issue 9 12 14 22

24 26 28 30 32 34 36 76 78 80 82

Mail Call News Reviews One on One Seabourn Technology Wine & Spirits Wealth Spas Golf Chefs Cruising LGBTQ+ Airport Update Medical Tourism Preview

64

70

74

leisure destinations 62

Neighborhoods: Doha Fast-paced Doha gears up for FIFA 2022.

64

Friends & Family: Budapest Take to the water and explore Budapest’s splendor at a leisurely pace.

68

Tours: Virginia Beach Explore the wilder side of Virginia Beach.

Bucket List: Kiawah Island Place South Carolina’s Kiawah Island Golf Resort high on your must-play list.

72

Kicking Back: Cozumel Escape to Cozumel to soak up Caribbean sun and fun.

FX

EXPRESS

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2021 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

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PHOTO: © BETTINA WAGNER | DREAMSTIME.COM

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MAIL CALL

Q&A WITH KIMBERLY KROL INLANDER, EDITOR IN CHIEF We are interested in learning your current thoughts on travel and to hear your travel plans for 2021!

Tell us. Email us at letters@globaltravelerusa.com

Q&A TIME In our March 2021 issue we asked: With spring almost upon us, are you planning on visiting any national parks this year? A few readers wrote in with ideas: My husband and I took a four-week working road trip of our home state of California to revisit some of our favorite spots and visit a few new ones, including three national parks: Yosemite, Joshua Tree and Death Valley. We charted our own path and traveled at our leisure, but we definitely needed that change of scenery — even if a majority of the views came from our car windows!

CONTACT GT DO YOU HAVE A STORY TO SHARE? THOUGHTS ON A RECENT GT ARTICLE?

DAVID SANFORD, VIA EMAIL

PHOTOS: © KIMBERLY KROL INLANDER, © MIKE RUSSO

A few years ago we started a tradition with our now 11-year-old son of visiting a new national park each year during his spring break. Obviously, our travel plans were halted this past year, and as things are still not fully back to normal, we opted to drive this year, choosing Shenandoah National Park. Given that it is only a two-hour drive, I can’t believe we haven’t explored this park sooner. We plan to return in the fall!

SALLY CARREÓN, VIA EMAIL

Email: letters@globaltravelerusa.com Write: Letters to the Editor 309 Floral Vale Blvd.

Yardley, PA 19067

We asked members of our Globility Board to share their travel experiences with us. One member checked in with an update about meal service on trains versus planes:

First may have snack boxes and wine now on its four-plus-hour trunk route runs like SLC–JFK. But Amtrak is doing reasonably tasty hot meals and a reasonable drink selection, like this salmon I just finished. And with printed menus, too! This was on Acela First Class, Providence–Newark.

Just wanted to share a snapshot into how topsyturvy travel service standards have become. Delta

MIKE RUSSO, GLOBAL TRAVELER GLOBILITY BOARD, VIA EMAIL

GLOBILITY BOARD CHECK-IN

Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

APRIL/MAY 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

9

MAIL CALL TRAVELING AGAIN

nian people delightful. Its reputation as a party island for the rich and famous (and all others) is deserved, as the Mykonians are extremely tolerant of their tourists’ excess.

Last year was devastating for the travel sector, and Mykonos suffered as well, though I hear a lot of the time has been used for construction and site improvements.

Earlier this year, Greece announced it was open to all with documentation of full vaccination. With parts of the European Union in lockdown again — Italy, France and Germany — we’re hopeful Greece will remain open as we approach our departure. And with American Airlines flying more flights to Athens from JFK, ORD and PHL, rejoining the elite frequent-flyer force will become easier.

We had great hopes to take the Queen Mary 2 across the Atlantic this June, but Cunard canceled all trips through October. We plan to reschedule for 2022.

I noted in a Global Traveler email today the photo promotion of Mykonos, Greece. How timely, as last week I confirmed our trip there for three weeks in June and July. For more than 25 years my parents — when they were alive — spent four months each summer on Mykonos (the advantage of being school teachers). My father enjoyed dancing with the local men and was considered part of the “atmosphere” at the beach bungalows. For many years I visited them for three weeks at a time — true decadence. We’ve tried to return every two to three years, but other travel and work kept Catherine and me from returning as often as we wished.

Each time I return, it’s as if I’m returning for a family reunion ... staying at the same beach bungalow (now renamed “resort”), though the next generation has taken over running the taverna and bungalows. There are fond memories there: My father taught the kids to swim, and that endears them to us when we visit!

Times do change and prices soared. What was once $10 per night now hovers at more than $200 … and that’s on the low end of the scale. Still, the beaches are some of the best in the world, the food — of course — flavorful (albeit expensive for seafood) and the Myko-

JONATHAN FUCHS, VIA EMAIL

SURVEY REPORTS HIGH LEISURE TRAVEL CONFIDENCE In a March 17 issue of eFlyerUSA, we discussed the latest Traveler Confidence Index survey from Travel Again. According to the survey, leisure traveler confidence hit its highest level since the pandemic started. We asked: Where do you fall on the confidence scale as a leisure traveler? Do you plan to travel in the next six months? This inspired a reader to write in with thoughts:

LINDA BASS, VIA EMAIL I read with interest your article about leisure

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ISLANDS

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ICELAND

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind and soul in is clean, crisp and refreshing, offering a famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands.

BY mouth.

BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones.

PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

www.globaltravelerusa.com

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

GLOBALTRAVELERUSA.COM Visit our website to access past and present articles, reports, guides, hot travel links and deals and video interviews, as well as forms for subscribing to the magazine and our eFlyer newsletter.

WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS? Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from March Madness to impulsive trips.

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ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE AND ICE

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

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travel confidence in the current newsletter. I live on Maryland’s Eastern Shore and am strictly a leisure (pre-pandemic, at least twice a year) traveler. I can catch an American Airlines flight on the Shore and connect in either Charlotte or Philadelphia.

Airlines can scrub the planes and everything in them and can filter the air with high-grade HEPA filters repeatedly, and I still have no confidence in the safety, infection-wise, of flying at this time. Not because of the airlines, but because of the entire flying experience: You cannot maintain social distancing during boarding and disembarking; people are mashed up against each other in the scramble to get off the plane.

Middle seats are certainly not six feet from adjoining seats.

Many defiant “no-maskers” or carelessly masked (nose not covered, mask on chin) people are in the airport.

Lines at TSA will be rushed and not maintaining social distancing between travelers.

My confidence in the safety of flying will be restored when the airlines either require a negative COVID test result or proof of full vaccination. I’d like to see the airlines exert pressure on the Department of Transportation to initiate these measures.

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We recommend you complete your check-in online and arrive at the airport at least three hours before your flight with your mask on. Please note that only personal and valuable belongings are permitted within the cabin.

It’s crucial to maintain physical distance and keep your mask on during no-contact check-in and passport control. Your body temperature will be measured by our personnel who all use the necessary protective equipment.

Embarkation is carried out via passenger boarding bridges in small groups, following physical safedistancing rules. This is carried out in order, starting with the passengers seated in the back row.

All contact points in our aircraft are thoroughly disinfected by special teams after each flight. The air is completely renewed every three minutes by HEPA filters, and our hygiene expert cabin crew provide all passengers with hygiene kits.

Disembarking the aircraft is carried out by directions from our cabin crew, following physical distancing rules.

Baggage claim is also regulated to reduce physical contact.

Please visit turkishairlines.com to learn more about our travel standards and other details.

Our hygiene standards have been awarded the Diamond Status by APEX Health Safety powered by SimpliFlying.

NEWS, DEALS AND REWARDS Indianapolis Airport Authority Unveils Mural Indianapolis International Airport unveiled a massive mural of legendary entrepreneur Madam C.J. Walker’s impact on the physical, social, cultural and economic legacy of the city.

Madam Walker was the first self-made Black female millionaire and an influential figure in Indianapolis. The mural, Entrepreneurs Awakening: The Making of a Legacy, measures 11 feet high and more than 75 feet long. Indianapolis Airport Authority partnered with the Arts Council of Indianapolis and the Madam Walker Legacy Center to create the mural, selecting local artist Tasha Beckwith to craft the piece, designed digitally and printed on adhesive vinyl. Beckwith scattered Madam Walker’s own words throughout.

The mural is located pre-security in Civic Plaza inside the airport terminal and will be on display into 2022. _______ ind.com

Fiji Airways Earns Hospital-Grade Certification Fiji Airways was awarded Diamond certification, the highest standard for travel safeguards in a COVID-19 atmosphere by the Airline Passenger Experience Association and SimpliFlying.

Diamond is the highest rating in the APEX Health Safety powered by SimpliFlying audit, only offered to airlines providing hospital-grade health safety measures. Fiji Airways is the first airline of its size to attain Diamond certification.

The audit intensely investigates 58 areas across 10 stages of the customer experience, including online check-in, testing, contact tracing, the airport lounge, onboard experience and upon arrival. Fiji Airways’ Travel Ready program includes the wearing of personal protective equipment for crew, mandatory masks for customers, using tracing apps, increased hygiene measures, hospital-grade sanitization and cleaning, online check-in facilitation, digitizing onboard content, a dedicated Travel Ready Hub and redesigned onboard service.

APEX worked with SimpliFlying to develop industry standards to increase customer safety.

SimpliFlying has served more than 100 airlines worldwide, but shifted focus in the past year to building brand trust post-pandemic through biosafety measures and testing. _______ fijiairways.com simpliflying.com

Pittsburgh International Trials Smart Bathroom Cleaning Tech Pittsburgh International Airport partnered with a group of Carnegie Mellon University students to use advanced technology to increase the efficiency of restroom cleaning. As part of the airport’s xBridge innovation center, the latest project’s goal is to calculate real-time, smarter cleaning schedules using artificial intelligence. The AI will take into account when and where flights come in, how many people use a restroom based on a beam that counts people as they approach and, eventually, sensors to alert staff when amenities need to be refilled or garbage emptied.

The students are part of CMU’s Master of Science in Artificial Intelligence and Innovation program. The course contains six different projects, with the airport project the most popular choice. The teams are graded on their projects and also compete for prize money.

PIT also announced a partnership with Honeywell to develop a live dashboard measuring air quality, allowing airport staff to identify and correct issues in real time. _______ flypittsburgh.com

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Jack Nicklaus to Design Course in Saudi Arabia Jack Nicklaus is designing his first-ever golf course in Saudi Arabia, at Qiddiya, Saudia’s capital of entertainment, sports and the arts. The championship golf course, about 40 minutes from Riyadh, is under design and awaiting the start of construction.

Designed for a private golf and country club set in an exclusive residential community in the heart of the Qiddiya development, ground should be broken later this year. Construction began on the Qiddiya project in 2019, and the golf development will also include a high-end resort and spa and exclusive residences. Qiddiya will later seek designers for a second course to provide top-notch golfing facilities for residents and day visitors. _______ qiddiya.com

Blacklane Brings Chauffeur Hailing to 21 Cities Blacklane started its novel chauffeur hailing in 21 cities across 11 countries, launching first in New York City on March 1. Blacklane currently offers scheduled rides in 50 countries, and this new service offers on-demand rides with the same quality, health and safety standards, fixed competitive fares and sustainability as its prebooked trips.

Service in London and Dubai began March 2, while Berlin launched March 3 and Paris on March 4. Seven other U.S. cities — Boston, Chicago, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Miami, San Francisco and Washington, D.C. — launched the next week, and all 21 cities were active by March 26. The remaining destinations include Vienna, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Munich, Dublin, Milan, Lisbon, Singapore and Zürich. _______ blacklane.com

Uptick in Leisure Traveler Confidence According to the latest monthly Traveler Confidence Index developed by Travel Again, leisure traveler confidence hit its highest level during the pandemic this month, reinforcing the prediction leisure travel will lead travel recovery. Thirty percent of leisure travelers made future reservations compared to 11 percent of business travelers, and six in 10 travelers, about 62 percent, look to travel domestically in the next six months.

While both business (2.62 to 2.94) and leisure (2.73 to 3.08) confidence ticked up, overall traveler confidence remains low with continued uncertainty about the future of travel. The survey also found 45 percent of business travelers and 39 percent of leisure travelers said The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention determination that COVID testing will not be required on domestic flights decreased their confidence.

Among other key findings, 19 percent of business and 15 percent of leisure travelers are fully “ready to travel,” and more than 80 percent of all travelers will take a COVID-19 vaccine when available to them.

Travelers still rank mandatory masks and frequent cleaning as the most important confidence-building elements, even above vaccine usage.

Travel Again united the global travel industry to restore consumer and corporate confidence in travel and to encourage responsible government policy. _______

PHOTOS: © SUWAREE TANGBOVORNPICHET | DREAMSTIME.COM, © HYATT REGENCY ARUBA RESORT SPA AND CASINO, © HYATT

travelagainproject.org

Work from Wyoming The Work from Wyoming offer at Hotel Jackson in Jackson Hole, available through May 15, includes the fifth night free when booking five nights or more. Rates start at $499, and the offer also includes complimentary WiFi, daily breakfast in FIGS and access to a meeting room. _______ hoteljackson.com

Elite Experience at Hyatt Regency Aruba Take advantage of Hyatt Regency Aruba Resort Spa and Casino’s Elite Experience Offer, providing exclusive experiences at 20 percent savings. The Aruba resort recently completed a multimillion-dollar renovation.

The Elite Experience, available May 1–Dec. 20, includes daily access to the Regency Club, a daily beachfront palapa, an option to upgrade to an exclusive pool cabana or beach tent, and two dedicated ocean floats. Additionally, guests enjoy a Dining Under the Stars experience, a $100 slot play credit and premium high-speed internet. Book by Dec. 15.

Hyatt to Utilize VeriFLY Mobile Health Passport

_______

Hyatt announced plans to explore the VeriFLY + Stay app, a mobile health passport that provides verification of COVID-19 credentials and travel guidelines.

The app will aid in providing peace of mind for in-person gatherings by offering a seamless option for meeting attendees and colleagues to directly receive and present COVID-19 test results. Since Jan. 1, thousands of travelers confidently and safely verified their COVID-19 health status with VeriFLY. Hyatt will work with meeting planners to identify criteria for meeting attendees, including presenting negative COVID-19 test results and other important information. Attendees can then receive the criteria and other communication via the VeriFLY app prior to arrival. It will also help streamline requirements and necessary forms for attendees. Once requirements are satisfied, attendees use the app to display a green checkmark for entry into events. Hyatt does not receive any personal or individual information, just aggregated and anonymized data.

An extension of Hyatt’s Global Care & Cleanliness Commitment, the company joins a number of travel companies using VeriFLY to inspire confidence to return to travel. As the world’s first widely adopted digital health credential, VeriFLY has more than 300,000 active users in 55 countries across six continents.

hyatt.com

_______ hyatt.com myverifly.com

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APRIL/MAY 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

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NEMACOLIN

TOP TAKEAWAYS: Nemacolin is a family business, with the owner, Mr. Hardy of 84 Lumber, residing on site. Take a minute to peruse the exhibit on the Hardy family.

------------------------Speaking of family, the staff across the board is exceptional, and the feeling of family is evident among all employees.

ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: Talk about a grand entrance! After driving across the state of Pennsylvania and spending the last 40 minutes of our journey in a snowstorm, Nemacolin’s The Chateau coming into view was a welcome and gorgeous sight. After stopping at a checkpoint where our temperatures were taken, we drove to the valet, where we were helped with our many bags (winter gear takes up a lot of luggage space!) and escorted into an equally gorgeous lobby, bedecked with red roses in a nod to Nemacolin’s recent gig as host venue for the latest season of The Bachelor. Given the late hour, the lobby was quiet and empty. We were offered Champagne at check-in and were quickly on our way to our guestroom.

SERVICES/AMENITIES: This is where the resort truly shines!

Depending on the season, the options for activities at Nemacolin are endless. We visited in winter and went clay shooting, took a safari

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Shuttle service is available to transfer from place to place, and it’s quick, easy and efficient.

-------------------------

tour (think white tigers, wolves, bears, buffalo and more), went snow tubing (recently renovated to include a Magic Carpet to take guests back up the hill), enjoyed the spa and took a painting class. One thing on our list we couldn’t squeeze in was dogsledding. And that’s just a few of the offerings. We can’t wait to go back and experience zip lining, art tours, mini golf, fly-fishing and so much more. Be sure to read our blogs and check out globaltravelerusa.com, whereverfamily .com and trazeetravel.com for more in-depth content on the activities.

And the dining is just as appealing. We enjoyed both in-room dining and a visit to Rockwell’s for breakfast. On our day of departure, the in-room dining must have been extremely busy as several items were forgotten and it lacked consistency from our previous experience. Barattolo offered the perfect venue for a cozy, romantic Italian dinner, and I encourage anyone visiting to take a “leap of faith” at Lautrec. Other options include Aqueous, PJ’s Ice Cream Parlor, The Pantry and The Tavern.

REVIEWED BY Kimberly Krol Inlander

One afternoon we enjoyed cocktails and wonderful live music in the lobby. Several times throughout our stay we both commented on the great music playing wherever we went.

NEMACOLIN 1001 Lafayette Drive Farmington, PA 15437 tel 866 344 6957 nemacolin.com PHOTOS: © JORDAN MILLINGTON

GUEST QUARTERS: Our room was generously sized. We entered into a vestibule with a closet and dressing area to the left and the marble bathroom — with stall shower, double sink and soaking tub — to the right. More rose petals adorned the bathroom. The shower offered little storage space for bath amenities and lacked strong water pressure, and certain room finishes could use a bit more attention to detail.

As we continued into the room, again we were taken by its spaciousness. Two nightstands flanked the king-sized bed, with a cushioned bench at its foot. Well across the room sat a dresser with the TV on top. When facing the bed, a wet bar with a mini refrigerator stood to the left along with another nook with a long, skinny table.

Next to the dresser was an ample desk, and another small sitting area with two chairs and a round table sat near the three floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the resort’s private runway.

-------------------------

FLY WITH CONFIDENCE For the Chicago Department of Aviation (CDA), there is no higher priority than the safety and well-being of the traveling public and its airport community in Chicago. O’Hare and Midway International Airports, which are operated by the CDA, are committed to providing travelers with safe and efficient facilities, while offering best-in-class services and amenities. The CDA continues to work closely with federal, state, and local agencies to ensure travelers are healthy, comfortable and safe. Chicago’s airports are ready to make your essential travel possible.

For more information on what we are doing, visit flychicago.com/covid

/fly2ohare /fly2midway

@fly2ohare @fly2midway

@fly2ohare @fly2midway

flychicago.com

/flychicago

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ALOFT DELRAY BEACH ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: I arrived at Aloft Delray Beach pretty late in the evening after a COVID-friendly outdoor dinner reservation. However late it may have been, a lovely woman at the front desk greeted us as if she had been waiting for us all day. My sister and I walked around a bit before heading to our room, admiring the vibrant lobby decorated with neon signs and lights around a ready-to-play billiards table. On our way to the elevators we grabbed two water bottles from the lobby shop Re:Fuel, and the same woman from the front desk told us they were on her and we didn’t owe a thing.

PHOTOS: © ALOFT DELRAY BEACH

GUEST QUARTERS: Our room on the top floor of Aloft Delray Beach had a wonderful view of the pool deck. The living room held a futon couch, and a unique and modern privacy wall separated the room from the main bedroom. My favorite aspect was the dark sliding door to the bathroom, where a standing shower as well as a giant Jacuzzi tub offered a luxury touch. The décor emulated the art and entertainment aspects of Delray Beach with color pops and sleek design.

The television had streaming capabilities, perfect for our Netflix obsession, and other amenities included a coffee machine, mini fridge and a retro radio/speaker.

SERVICE/AMENITIES: The pool deck bar was closed during my stay, but I could picture long, hot days spent at the pool with a cold drink in my hand. The deck also included lounge seating aside from traditional pool chairs, cabana lounges and a corn hole game which my sister and I enjoyed.

She won.

The property has extended-stay condo availability, so there is an entire lounge section just for those guests which I could appreciate from the other side of the floral wall separating the two. Although I didn’t use the gym, my sister reported plenty of space to be socially distant and a clean facility through and through.

Hot breakfast service stopped due to the pandemic, but guests can get complimentary hot coffee in the lobby as well as breakfast items for purchase.

REVIEWED BY Haley Fogarty

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TOP TAKEAWAYS All overnight guests have access to parking in a garage.

------------------------The property lies a short walk from the restaurants and shops of Atlantic Avenue, the main street of Delray Beach.

------------------------The employees went the extra mile to make us feel welcome and comfortable.

ALOFT DELRAY BEACH 202 S.E. Fifth Ave. Delray Beach, FL 33483 tel 561 469 0550 marriott.com

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RANCHO BERNARDO INN TOP TAKEAWAYS: A beautiful property to explore and perfect pool set-up for warmer months

-------------------------Outdoor dining for both the Fireside Grill and AVANT

-------------------------Great for golf outings or spa weekends RANCHO BERNARDO INN 17550 Bernardo Oaks Drive San Diego, CA 92128 tel 855 574 5356 ranchobernardoinn.com

GUEST QUARTERS: The Rancho Bernardo Inn and Golf Resort sits on 265 acres with a sprawling championship golf course and beautiful walkways, secluded gardens, verandas that lead you to private guest quarters, and fireside dining experiences. Our Serrano King Bed suite was accessible via a winding and charming path with a shared firepit available for guests. Our room’s highlight was the panorama of the rolling hills of the golf course and picturesque views of the Tuscan-style pool from floor-to-ceiling windows and private deck. While the room may need a small design refresh, the king-sized bed was incredibly comfortable, and the large bathroom featured a dual vanity, a spa tub and a glass-enclosed shower. Following COVID rules, there was no daily cleaning service, but towels, coffee and water were quickly brought up to the room on request.

SERVICES/AMENITIES: Our first night we had a casual dinner at Veranda Fireside lounge which overlooks the golf course and was filled with guests and families. We were lucky to snag a premium table next to the stone fireplace and enjoyed wine and a light meal of appetizers like French onion soup and seared peppers, all with live music playing in the background — this felt very pre-pandemic and could not have set a more

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calming tone for the trip.

The next morning I took a stroll through the property and its lush gardens and walkways to the spa for a personal treat, a 50-minute holistic wellness massage. Some of the facilities are closed for safety, but the casitas offer a calming retreat for guests with options to visit the adults-only pool after a treatment in a private cabana. I believe this is a hot ticket during warmer months, and I will return for it!

AVANT is the fine-dining restaurant, and from what I can tell is a favorite with locals. It was packed with extended outdoor seating and heat lamps. The service and wine list were top-notch, and I enjoyed an excellent meal of charred winter lettuce, Snake River Farms Wagyu strip loin and 21-day-aged duck breast. The evening was romantic and delicious.

REVIEWED BY Carly Allen

PHOTOS: © RANCHO BERNANDO INN

ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: I had been itching for a road trip or staycation for a while and decided to take a few days away from Los Angeles and head down to sunny San Diego and explore downtown and Coronado Island. In the late afternoon we headed to our hotel away from the hustle of the city, Rancho Bernardo Inn. Just 25 minutes north of downtown SD, the golf resort envelopes you in a serene atmosphere upon arrival. The resort follows California COVID-19 rules and, although there is no valet parking, guest parking is convenient and plentiful — perfect for people going in and out.

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CRANE’S BEACH HOUSE ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: After driving through the arts and entertainment district of Delray Beach, I was expecting the lively and vibrant energy to follow me to my doorstep at Crane’s Beach House that evening. I was pleasantly surprised when the spirited rumble of a night downtown halted right at the front gate. As I walked the pathway to the front office for check-in, I was welcomed by a quiet rustle of the greenery and flowers that guided my walk, strung with lights and colorful, tropical décor. At check-in I was provided with a complimentary parking pass; although I would only be there for one night, I much appreciated this unexpected perk. I received my room information, including a pass code that would open my door.

Keyless entry was a nice touch.

PHOTOS: © HALEY FOGARTY, © CRANE'S BEACH HOUSE

GUEST QUARTERS: A few hours before I checked in, I received a text message that Crane’s Beach House had an opening, and I was upgraded to its luxury villa. Needless to say, I was eager to see what awaited behind the doors of Villa No. 7; the door, by the way, was sealed with a “sanitized and sealed” sticker, and I later found the same sticker sealing the refrigerator door and toilet as well. My villa, equipped with a fully stocked stainless steel kitchen, featured a chic living room that flowed right into a king-sized bedroom with a spa-inspired bathroom and a rock-floor shower. My favorite part of the room was the back patio I enjoyed after settling in and unpacking. I looked forward to using the gas firepit right off my personal patio but was disappointed to find it was not working; it was far past the office hours of the front desk, and nobody was there to assist me.

After a quiet evening swim, I enjoyed winding down with the bedroom television with HD cable and premium movie channels, settling in for a comfortable and roomy sleep on the king mattress.

SERVICE/AMENITIES: Breakfast delivery was available for guests who requested it at least 12 hours in advance; and since my stay was brief, I opted out. Most hotels, however, have discontinued breakfast service due to COVID-19, so I appreciated the property’s efforts.

My room was stocked with three Tommy Bahama beach chairs, which I used to watch the sunrise, as well as two yoga mats. I enjoyed a cup of coffee from the room’s Keurig before my departure and took along a custom Crane’s Beach House water bottle left for me as a gift.

REVIEWED BY Haley Fogarty

TOP TAKEAWAYS The beach house is half a block away from Delray Beach, so getting up to watch the sunrise is a breeze.

-------------------------The hotel offered options for contactless check-in and keyless entry to ensure guests’ comfort and safety.

-------------------------Although the villas are attached to one another, I felt a great sense of privacy and personalization.

CRANE’S BEACH HOUSE BOUTIQUE HOTEL & LUXURY VILLAS 82 Gleason St. Delray Beach, FL 33483 tel 561 278 1700 cranesbeachhouse.com

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THE BREAKERS PALM BEACH

TOP TAKEAWAYS: One of the top hotels in the country, it always delivers. We never leave dissatisfied.

Even during the pandemic it was an enjoyable trip. The hotel was cautious, and everyone felt comfortable and socially distanced.

-------------------------The property is so colorful and well-landscaped, it is pure joy to walk around the grounds and take in the scenery.

The property seems to lift everyone’s spirits, as guests are relaxed and enjoying life while at The Breakers.

-------------------------Even though you don’t need to leave the grounds, many great cities and restaurants lie within a short driving distance.

There are some great stores on premises, and shopping abounds in the area.

ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: We arrived at 1 p.m. and were greeted by the valet team, who introduced themselves and took our bags. The front desk team were enthusiastic, and in a short time we were in our beautiful room, where a cold bottle of Champagne and some delicious chocolates greeted us. The bellman supplied some information, and we were ready to sit on the deck and look out at the beach and ocean. The view was expansive and soothing.

SERVICES/AMENITIES: The property is breathtaking and has multiple restaurants on the premises and a few that are a short distance away. A complimentary shuttle drives to and picks up from the restaurants every 10 minutes. Not only are there great choices of

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restaurants, they are serviced by knowledgeable and caring staff and feature fantastic food and ambience. Our favorite was the seafood restaurant with the ocean as a backdrop and the bar itself a fish tank.

It is a little disconcerting at times when you put your drink down and see fish swim under your glass!

REVIEWED BY Kevin Ryan

PHOTOS: © THE BREAKERS PALM BEACH

GUEST QUARTERS: The room could not have been cleaner and more comfortable. It was equipped with a large TV, free WiFi and plenty of outlets for our electronics. The room also had a gorgeous bathroom that included a shower and a tub. As an added bonus there was a television in the bathroom mirror.

The bedding was comfortable, as was the other furniture in the room.

THE BREAKERS PALM BEACH 1 S. County Road Palm Beach, FL 33480 tel 561 655 6611 thebreakers.com

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ONE ON ONE

Steve Smotrys Vice President, Global Sales and Trade Relations, Seabourn THE BUSINESS What is your most recent project, and what was the inspiration behind it? Collaborating with the whole Seabourn team to find ways to help our travel advisor partners. Obviously, we needed to become more financially cautious, but we fully understand advisors are critical pieces of the travel ecosystem.

Their success is tied to ours.

What is your favorite aspect of the job? Everything we do is with the goal of creating priceless memories, and that puts everything in perspective when I get caught up in the minutia of the day. I also love the amazing people I connect and collaborate with.

What’s the biggest business risk you’ve ever taken? After spending 13 years in the yield management world, I took a leap of faith to lead the sales team at Cunard. It’s amazing how powerful coming into a different business function with a fresh perspective can be.

Who is someone you admire professionally in the travel industry? I had the pleasure to work with Jan Swartz, president, Holland America Group, in my revenue management days and always admired what a dynamic leader she is.

THE BASICS

A LITTLE BIT MORE

Name: Steve Smotrys Title: Vice president, global sales and trade relations Company, city: Seabourn; Los Angeles, California First job: Financial analyst at Warner Bros. international theatrical division Where to next: I keep thinking about our new expedition ships that will join our fleet late this year. I’d be thrilled to go anywhere they’re sailing, but the top of my list is probably Antarctica.

What actor or actress would play you in a movie of your life?

I’ve been told Matthew Goode resembles me. Not sure if he has the acting chops to pull it off, but he’s got the look.

What would you be doing professionally if you weren’t in your current industry? I’d say in a leadership role in the world of conservation and sustainability.

What is your favorite book, movie or television show? Paulo Coelho’s The Alchemist inspires you to create a vision and teaches you about the rewards of hard work and the journey in pursuing it. Casino Royale is the perfect James Bond film.

And I loved Mad Men for its characters and portrayal of the golden age of advertising framed by the historical events of the 1960s.

What historical figure, dead or alive, would you love to have dinner with? A proper dinner requires a party of six, so I will take the liberty of inviting Ernest Hemingway, Bruce Lee, Quentin Tarantino, Paul McCartney and Walt Disney.

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Tell us about a travel nightmare: I have been fortunate to avoid any travel nightmares.

Share a comical travel experience: While staying at Rome Cavalieri, walking through the lobby hallway, I passed a man wearing ragged jeans, a tee and flip-flops. I thought I recognized him but couldn’t place him. That night in the bar I approached a man with his back to me whom I thought was a waiter. “Excuse me, sir, could I order some drinks?” The man I passed earlier swung around, gave me an irritated stare, said, “I don’t work here” and stormed past me. It was then I realized it was Anthony Bourdain.

What is your preferred method of travel — planes, trains, automobiles, cruise ships — and why? Cruise ship, of course! Nowhere else can you pick where you want to go, visit multiple places while only unpacking once, and choose exactly the onboard experience that fits your personality and style.

What has been the best example of customer service you’ve experienced during your travels? Before working for the company, I had the pleasure of sailing on Seabourn Encore. The service was unlike anything I experienced before.

Not only was it high-touch but delivered with heart, warmth and authenticity. I’ll never forget it!

PHOTO: © STEVE SMOTRYS

AS A TRAVELER

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HO M E

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TECHNOLOGY

Growing Smarter Spring brings a new crop of devices to enhance everyday life.

BY JACK GUY

GARDYN

IROBOT ROOMBA I7+ Let this robot vacuum take care of the cleaning while you make the most of the better weather.

With automatic dirt disposal and self-charging, you can forget about the Roomba i7+ for up to two months, so you won’t have to think about vacuuming at all. However, in an emergency you can call the Roomba i7+ via your smart assistant or the iRobot Home app. Robot vacuums keep getting better, and this one is iRobot’s best effort yet, with customizable cleaning schedules and customizable maps of your home. $799.99. irobot.com

SONY WH-1000XM4 HEADPHONES

LG GRAM LAPTOP

These noise-canceling cans from Sony are highly regarded for great sound quality, top-notch noise canceling and strong battery life. Sound is crystal-clear thanks to LDAC audio technology, which transfers three times as much data as normal Bluetooth audio and brings sound quality close to that of a wired connection. The noisecanceling capabilities are customizable in the accompanying app, which means you can still hear announcements if you’re in transit.

Also enjoy smart features such as Speak-to-Chat, which automatically pauses music playback when you speak, and compatibility with Alexa and Google Assistant. $349.99. sony.com

Premium laptop users who prefer Windows will be happy to hear LG released an updated version of its ultra-light Gram series. Available in 14-, 16- and 17-inch versions, even the largest laptop is thinner than most magazines and weighs just 1.35 kilograms. The first Gram series was lauded for its design but criticized for lackluster performance, rectified this time around with 11th Gen Intel Core processors and beefed-up specs all around. From $999.99. lg.com

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PHOTOS: © GARDYN, © IROBOT, © SONY, © LG

Described as an all-in-one indoor vertical growing system, Gardyn lets you grow more than 30 kinds of plants in your home with minimal effort. That’s thanks to Kelby, a “smart Gardyning assistant” which alerts you when your plants need water or light and if they’re ready to be harvested. Gardyn ships with a selection of 30 different plants, ranging from basil to kale and cherry tomatoes, and you can expect your first harvest within 4–5 weeks. After that, simply order more seeds via the app and enjoy 100 percent organic, GMO-free produce you’ve grown yourself. From $899. mygardyn.com

WHERE YOU WANT TO BE

Luxury All-Inclusive | Oversized Suites | 5-Star Dining | Adults-Only Royal Service | Family Concierge | Yhi Spa Life Enriching Experiences | Non-Motorized Water Sports | Fitness Programs | Romance by Paradisus | Meetings & Incentives P a r a d i s u s P a l m a Re a l | P a r a d i s u s P u n t a C a n a | T h e G r a n d Re s e r v e a t P a r a d i s u s P a l m a Re a l Paradisus Playa del Carmen | Paradisus Cancun | Paradisus Los Cabos | Paradisus Playa Mujeres (Coming 2019)

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WINE & SPIRITS

Oregon Trailblazers Sokol Blosser celebrates 50 years of winemaking in the Willamette Valley.

BY KELLY MAGYARICS

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fruit rather than the yeasty, bready notes of Champagne, resulting in several effervescent expressions including Brut and Rosé.

Just 30 minutes from Portland, Sokol Blosser Winery relishes the chance to welcome wine lovers. At press time, it offered 75-minute guided tastings with reservations and a full food menu; guests can also order meal kits for pick-up paired with their wines. The winery’s YouTube channel features a collection of short tasting videos.

ARMED WITH ONLY THE DREAM OF “GROWING THINGS,” A PIONEERING SPIRIT AND A BURGEONING AMERICAN WINE INDUSTRY, THEY SET OUT TO MAKE HIGH-QUALITY PINOT NOIR IN A LOCATION WHOSE CLIMATE AND TERROIR MIMICKED THAT OF BURGUNDY, ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST REVERED REGIONS FOR THE FICKLE RED VARIETAL.

Sokol Blosser Bluebird Cuvée 2018 ($32), a traditional-method dry sparkling wine made with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, early Muscat, Riesling and Müller-Thurgau, presents a vibrant acidity and notes of white peach, apple blossom and minerality.

The signature red, Sokol Blosser Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 2018 ($42), truly expresses Oregon terroir, with aromas of mushroom and forest floor, a palate tinged with cranberry and black cherry, and a slightly spicy finish.

Offering a nod to the company’s roots with a retro label, Sokol Blosser Old Vineyard Block Pinot Noir 2018 ($60) features a bouquet of cherry cola and florality, along with blackberry, cherry and wet earth on the palate.

PHOTO: © SOKOL BLOSSER

W

hen Bill Blosser and his wife, Susan Sokol Blosser, moved from Portland to the Willamette Valley more than 50 years ago with dreams of starting a winery, neither had any farming, business or viniculture background, and Oregon had no history of winemaking success. Armed with only the dream of “growing things,” a pioneering spirit and a burgeoning American wine industry, they set out to make high-quality Pinot Noir in a location whose climate and terroir mimicked that of Burgundy, one of the world’s most revered regions for the fickle red varietal.

It was a lofty goal — and far from easy.

Most of the books about American winemaking aimed at California’s Central Valley, so they had to ask friends to translate European ones.

An early attempt at natural weed control by bringing geese to graze ended in failure when the flock couldn’t be cajoled to the vineyards.

They released their first vintage in 1971 to a lukewarm reception; looking back, Susan said the world just wasn’t ready for Oregon Pinot Noir.

Over the years they experimented with trellising and site selection and imported different clones from Burgundy, and over time the world took notice of the Willamette Valley varietal. With tart red fruit, silky tannins and that signature earthiness, it’s not as restrained as red Burgundy nor as ripe and showy as bottles from California. In 1987 a visit from renowned Burgundian winemaker Robert Drouhin — who started his own venture here — lent the region credibility.

This year, the family-owned winery marks 50 years of crafting world-class wines in Oregon, now also producing Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Rosé, using estate-grown fruit from the Dundee Hills and its own vineyards in Eola-Amity Hills.

In 2008 Bill and Susan passed the torch to daughter Alison, co-president and CEO, and son Alex, co-president and winemaker, who pursued a mutual goal of producing traditionalmethod sparkling wine that shows purity of

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WINE & SPIRITS

Savor the Flavor

HANGZHOU

Straight or mixed, enjoy the unique spirit of Svedka vodka. BY EUNICE FRIED

S

vedka is a Swedish vodka whose quality outpaces its price. First made by Guillaume Cuvelier in Lidköping, Sweden, in 1998, it arrived in the United States in 2007 through its American owner, Constellation Brands, and has since become the vodka of choice for many American drinkers. Taken by its winning combination of taste and cost, they made it one of the top-selling vodka brands in the United States.

While Svedka is only 22 years old, Sweden remains one of three countries considered the world’s oldest vodka makers, along with Poland and Russia. Svedka is made of Swedish winter wheat — four pounds needed for every bottle — and distilled five times. Like most vodkas, it is bottled straight as well as in a number of fruit forms. Among them are lemon, cherry, strawberry and peach. Straight Svedka contains 40 percent alcohol, while its flavored variations have 35 percent. And while some brands of vodka cost as much as $40–45 for a 750 ml bottle, Svedka

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

There is a suggestion of sweet mint and an evocation of orange and peach in Finca La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, followed by a relatively full body and excellent balance. Altogether a pleasing, inviting wine.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) is clean, crisp and refreshing, offering a typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear and peach overtones and a gentle reminder of citrus fruits in the mouth. A particularly harmonious wine.

The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) combines keen fruit flavors, herbal notes and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of honey and floral tones.

Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripe fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with citric notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

To Your Taste: Svedka Vodka, Rosé and Strawberry Guava. Try a Tropical Cooler with 2 parts Svedka Strawberry Guava, 2 parts soda and garnish with fresh sliced strawberries.

PHOTOS: © SVEDKA VODKA, © MAKIDOTVN - DREAMSTIME.COM

ATLANTA p. 56 BORDEAUX p. 74 CAYMAN ISLANDS p. 70 İSTANBUL p. 58 MÁLAGA p. 64 MUSCAT p. 50 NAPA VALLEY p. 72 AND ICE SEOUL p. 66 WASHINGTON, D.C. p. 62

ICELAND GRANDE DAME ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE

Venture out in Vienna, a city of opulence and grace. p. 60 May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

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ranges $15–20.

How best to enjoy Svedka? By itself and in as many additions and variations as your imagination allows.

To understand it in its natural state, begin with a small taste of Svedka straight. Chill a bottle in the freezer for a couple of hours or more. (It won’t freeze; it has too much alcohol to do that.) Pour a small amount in a chilled glass.

Sip, slowly — very slowly — savoring each taste. The purpose is not to get drunk but to consider its flavors and enjoy every drop.

For mixing, the possibilities are virtually endless. Pour equal parts of a flavored Svedka and water or soda in a chilled glass and mix well.

Garnish with citrus peels. Or combine 1 ounce each of Svedka vodka and rosé Svedka; 2 ounces grapefruit juice; and ½ ounce each of vanilla syrup, lemon juice and hibiscus tea. Shake and strain into a Collins glass filled with ice.

Perhaps, best of all, create your own Svedka original. Skål!

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WEALTH

Diversify Your Portfolio Real estate investing can change the game. BY KEVIN RYAN, CPA

PHOTO: © DENISISMAGILOV | DREAMSTIME.COM

WHILE REAL ESTATE INVESTING CAN BE A GREAT WAY TO DIVERSIFY YOUR PORTFOLIO, THERE IS SIGNIFICANT STRATEGY INVOLVED.

A

s the saying goes, don’t put all your eggs in one basket or you might lose everything at once.

Portfolio diversification is key; having a variety helps mitigate the risk of the decline in your investment.

Real estate offers an excellent place to further diversify your holdings. Residential real estate allows for single-family, multifamily and even mobile home investing, while commercial real estate investing provides value appreciation, diversification of your portfolio and, the king of it all, cash flow.

U.S. tax law provides some benefits for real estate investing that don’t apply to other investment types. Depreciation paired with the

1031 exchange tax deferral makes real estate a safer bet than most investments in uncertain times.

Real estate is a physical asset and, similar to other physical property, depreciates over time.

Accounting for depreciation on your taxes can be a powerful tool because the property isn’t a cash expense incurred by the owner every year, yet it allows for a potential decrease in taxable income resulting in tax savings. For example, a rental property with a net income of $200,000 is subject to a yearly depreciation expense of $50,000, which decreases the net income to $150,000. At a tax rate of 35 percent, this $50,000 yields a tax savings of approximately $17,000. The tax savings can be significant

over the holding period of the investment. Be aware the depreciation expense taken every year lowers your cost basis in the property, important upon the sale of the property.

On the flip side, another potential benefit is the appreciation in property value. However, when a property appreciates, the tax liability can be significant upon sale. Let’s say a property purchased for $500,000 with an annual depreciation expense of $25,000 is sold after 10 years. The basis decreased from $500,000 minus $250,000 depreciation ($25,000 per year) to $250,000. The difference between the selling price and the adjusted cost basis is considered a capital gain and is taxable income. If this property sells for $1 million, the taxable gain is $750,000. Great investment but big tax bill!

You may employ a 1031 exchange (a strategy derived from Section 1031 of the Internal Revenue Code), which allows you to defer the capital gain taxes on this sale so long as the proceeds are used to acquire a “like kind” property. A few rules must be followed to properly execute a 1031 exchange. With no limit on how many times a 1031 exchange can be completed, utilizing this tax strategy correctly can help your portfolio continue to grow as you invest in bigger and bigger properties.

While real estate investing can be a great way to diversify your portfolio, there is significant strategy involved. To maximize your earning potential and minimize your tax obligations, be sure to work with a business advisor who specializes in the real estate industry.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice.

Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.

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Global Airport Industry Leading Value Creator

Incheon International Airport is leaping forward as a Global Leading Value Creator that creates new values.

SPAS

Natural Serenity

Umstead Spa channels the native terrain of North Carolina. BY BECCA HENSLEY

Arrival Time: Spa entrance PHOTO: © THE UMSTEAD HOTEL & SPA

THE UMSTEAD HOTEL AND SPA 100 Woodland Pond Drive Cary, NC 27513 tel 919 447 4170 theumstead.com

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anjo-picking bluegrass star Earl Scruggs credited his home state for being the soul of his characteristic talent.

“My music came up from the soil of North Carolina,” he said. Driving through the state’s northeastern Piedmont region, an area rife with old pine growth, flowering dogwood trees, maples, oaks, hemlocks, wildflowers and herbs, it’s easy to intuit his inspiration. Just glimpsing the foothill-peppered terrain, a swath lying between the Atlantic Ocean and the Appalachian Mountains, awakens something in the heart. That’s what makes the Umstead Hotel and Spa in Cary — basically a suburb of Raleigh — so unique. Enveloped by 12 acres of verdant woodland near William B. Umstead State Park, it overlooks a lake and a well-marked nature path. Surprisingly, though, the stylish hotel does not lie in the bucolic countryside. Occupying prime real estate just off the highway, a few exits from Raleigh-Durham International Airport, it nevertheless melds into nature as an urban oasis and greenspace just spitting distance from the concrete jungle.

Worthy of its surrounding location, Umstead Hotel and Spa, the region’s most highly rated hotel, gifts visitors with lofty interiors; panoramic windows that frame and celebrate the outdoors; and a pro-

globaltravelerusa.com APRIL/MAY 2021

digious art collection, complete with a Dale Chihuly glass sculpture. Its signature restaurant, Herons, has become a local hangout and garnered critical culinary acclaim. But many would argue the retreat’s bi-level, 16,000-square-foot spa is its biggest temptation. Like a haven within a haven, the spa embodies the hotel’s mission to immerse its guests into North Carolina’s healing, regenerative natural landscape. “We draw inspiration from the region’s flora,” said Carolyn Doe, spa director.

Architecturally, the expanse, with 11 treatment rooms and a meditation garden, incorporates river rock, granite, bamboo and glass, each meant to reflect the Piedmont’s habitat. Terraces open to a vast lawn with parkland in view. But it is the thoughtful spa journeys themselves that most evoke the surrounding topography. “We offer a distinct North Carolina experience through our programming,” said Doe. “Our menu has a blend of treatments that range from relaxing to intensive, but we also include treatments that tie into nature, local resources and product vendors from in and around our state,” she added.

She noted the Organic Facial, executed with De La Terre products, as an example. The brand is based in North Carolina.

Reserve a long day at the curative Umstead Spa to reboot. With

5-star service and specific COVID-19 modifications for safety, it offers various options for vitality. One step into the aesthetically pleasing sanctum and you’ll relax. “Our ambiance is created through a focus on art, nature and wellness,” said Doe. You might shop in the spa boutique, work out in the fitness center, splash (quietly) in the open roof co-ed pool or mediate in the alfresco courtyard. But to linger longer and to immerse further into the local environment, choose one of the creative, indigenously reflective Spa Experiences, transformational expeditions to the soulful realm. Each creatively invokes North Carolina’s natural healing arsenal. Consider The Emerald, a detoxifying escape inspired by the state’s most precious gemstone. This ritual, an ode to the emerald stone (a historic symbol of nature, hope and renewal) begins with a dry brushing, moves to a chromo (color light) therapy tub soak replete with mineral salts and herbs, then ends with a soothing Swedish massage. Or opt for the Piedmont Experience, using packets of healing herbs and Thai-inspired movements to unravel the knots — metaphorically and otherwise.

While the three most popular treatments — Custom Massage, European Facial and Serenity Manicure — have more to do with wellness and

beauty maintenance, the Umstead Spa also satisfies those with a penchant for the exotic and unusual. The Indonesian Ancestral Massage “transports guests to Indonesia with sounds, aromas and a massage treatment,” said Doe. It utilizes coconut oil, sandalwood oil and jasmine flower extract and detoxifies and enlivens with a guided breathing technique known as Mayonggo.

The spa proudly meets state and local guidelines regarding COVID19. Temporarily, it modified some operations; for example, only guests with spa appointments have access to the spa, and some treatments will be unavailable for the near future. What can be done for those who yearn for a spa treatment but find themselves not quite ready to commit to being in a spa during these uncertain times? The Umstead Spa has thought of everything. “We can provide DIY services to house guests as well as retail shopping pickup or drop off. We’re currently working, too, to provide virtual consultations to our guests who purchase skin care products from us, as well as adding products to our retail offering that encourage DIY experiences,” said Doe. Like Scruggs’ music, Umstead Hotel and Spa, full of nature’s trove of well-being, harnesses the “soil” of North Carolina. Visit to see for yourself.

Haven of Healing: Meditation courtyard, indoor wet areas, and couple's treatment room.

PHOTOS: THE UMSTEAD HOTEL & SPA

APRIL/MAY 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

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GOLF

Game Day

Discover a distinct set of challenges at University Park’s 27-hole course.

Watering Hole: New clubhouse PHOTO: © UNIVERSITY PARK COUNTRY CLUB

UNIVERSITY PARK COUNTRY CLUB 7671 The Park Blvd.

University Park, FL 34201 tel 941 359 9999 universitypark-fl.com

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olf course architect Ron Garl, who has designed countless courses in Southern Florida and all over the world, designed University Park. Garl understands the tradition of the game while appreciating the playability and what is required as a course owner and operator. University Park, a 27-hole facility in Sarasota County, offers a wide range of services and a fully stocked clubhouse and pro shop. Head PGA golf pro Ashley Hayden welcomed us when we arrived.

Ashley and I had already enjoyed an email banter about his roots in the United Kingdom. Ashley came to the United States when he was 14, so he claims to be an American who just talks funny. As I spent a large part of my career with a British company, we got on famously.

For the round, I was joined by Frank Wood, my neighbor in Sarasota who spends his time as an executive in the legal learning IT business. Frank and I had teed up a few rounds together over the early part of 2021. Two singles joined us: Ken Pinkerton, a retired investment guru, and Aiden McNulty, born in Dingle Town in Ireland and whose career in banking took him all over the world. It turned out Aiden and I had a lot of mutual friends, including some of our contacts at Dubai Duty Free and Jimmy Cronin, the CEO of BCA Advertising in New York City. We made an eclectic foursome in three carts due to COVID restrictions (Frank and I shared one, as he had tested negative the day before), buzzing swiftly through our game.

globaltravelerusa.com APRIL/MAY 2021

BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

HOLE 19 531 yards, par 5 We started on the 19th hole, which at most courses is the clubhouse bar, but at University Park Hole 19 is a straight, long par 5. Many players suffer from first-hole jitters, and this was no different for any of us. Ken started talking trash to us from the get-go, so I felt a little boyish glee when he drove his tee shot far and right of the fairway bunkers into the woods.

My tee ball was a little anemic but straight and next to the far-right bunkers. Aiden also hit one right but in play where Frank gracefully joined me on the fairway. I had some warm-up issues, finally knocking my ball on the green in four while Frank had a similar lackluster approach. Ken “somehow” came out of the woods and landed in regulation, and Aiden had a beautiful third shot, landing within a foot of the cup.

HOLE 26 479 yards, par 5 Having seven holes to warm up, the better players in me and

Frank started to emerge. Don’t let the enormous waste bunker scare you; favor the left side of the fairway as Ashley the pro instructs in his tutorial. If you can get off a strong tee shot, you can take the green in two for a birdie opportunity. Instead, the four of us all had textbook shots and landed in regulation.

Ken had the annoying habit of parking his cart right next to my ball, and when I asked him if that was his ball he would say, “I don’t know whose it is” — very odd. As you can tell, I was quite fond of Kenny. Fortunately, all distractions aside, we all walked away with pars.

HOLE 27 330 yards, par 4 This was a funny hole, as I really had no idea it was a dogleg right when I struck my tee shot. I assumed the hole was straight so ended up near the bunkers where the fairway turns. Aiden did the same thing but overshot my drive and landed in the sand beyond.

When I asked Ken why he did not tell us it was a dogleg, he said, “You didn’t ask.” Well, he teed up and sent another ball right and into the marsh side, spewing expletives and tossing his driver in the air. I’ve seen people get hit by flying clubs, so I really dislike this behavior. Frank hit a great shot over the water and center and far on the fairway, having the benefit of our previous “course knowledge.”

My next shot in was only 110 yards, and

I nailed it on the green. Kenny Boy, of course, found his ball but struggled up to the green with the others. I was able to card a par even with all the distractions.

HOLE 5 140 yards, par 3 We played this beautiful par 3 from the top placement, which offers an intimidating view over the pond to the green. Ken commented he could hit his ball longer than mine in his continual passive-aggressive mind games — but he did hit a decent 8-iron to the green.

Aiden and Frank followed, and I hooked mine but stayed in bounds on the left side and chipped up for a bogey.

HOLE 6 367 yards, par 4 University Park’s pro Ashley Hayden considers this one of the more demanding par 4s on the course; trees line the left side and seem to serve as beacons for wayward balls. Frank and I drove to the center left of the fairway, Frank’s ball nearly clipping the trees on the left. Aiden and Ken took a more rightward direction, coming close to the bunker. Frank’s next shot with a 4-iron took more mud than ball as we all laughed at the crater he created.

I muscled a rescue to the front of the green and tapped in for par as Ken and Aiden also

achieved two great shots into the target in regulation.

HOLE 9 379 yards, par 4

Across the Pond: Hole 9 and Hole 5 PHOTOS: © UNIVERSITY PARK

On the final hole of the round, Aiden and I continued chit-chatting on the tee box about Dubai and the Middle East. This greatly annoyed Ken, so we continued. This is a fine finishing hole to the front nine and offers you the ability to swing away — but be careful, as the fairway narrows as it approaches the pond on the left. Unfortunately for Frank, he found this out and had to take a drop. I had a clear shot; and after shooing Ken away from my ball, I hit and landed to the right of the green. One chip up and I was equidistant with Aiden on the far side of the green. Frank and Ken patiently waited as Aiden and I talked about great times at the Bull & Bear in the Waldorf Astoria in New York. “Putt, already!”

Ken said, interrupting us. I said, “Did you putt out?” and he said, “Yes, five minutes ago.”

And I said, “You played out of turn, and that is a penalty.” Everyone but Ken laughed. After the round, we enjoyed a few cocktails without Ken, which was quite nice.

COUNTRY CLUB

APRIL/MAY 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

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CHEFS

New in Town Chef Mark Andelbradt takes the helm at Pendry West Hollywood. BY KIMBERLY KROL INLANDER

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WHICH FOOD IS YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE? AND ON THE OPPOSITE END OF THE SPECTRUM, WHAT IS ONE INGREDIENT OR FOOD YOU HATE TO USE? I would have to say my guilty pleasure is a few ounces of Osetra caviar and a great bottle of Champagne. I like to keep the garnishes simple; crème fraîche, chives and lemon blinis are perfect. And if I’m not in the mood to make blinis, potato chips are a great substitute.

On the other hand, I’d have to say if I never had to experience durian fruit again, I could live with that.

WHAT DISHES WOULD YOU SERVE AT A PRIVATE DINNER PARTY? That really depends on the guest list, but I generally like to begin with something shareable, like gently poached and chilled shellfish, using what is in season.

From there, items like sashimi of

Maine diver scallops with sea urchin roe and finger lime. I’m a big fan of preparing fresh ricotta ravioli with a hen egg yolk in the center.

This is particularly delicious when served with shaved white or black truffles. As a main course, I tend to lean toward Sonoma Valley duck or squab. The light gaminess works so well with huckleberries or lingonberries.

WHAT WAS THE FIRST MEAL YOU EVER PREPARED ON YOUR OWN? The first dish I ever made was beef stroganoff, as it’s something my mother made often, especially for special occasions — simply served over fresh egg noodles. The key to the dish is a touch of freshly grated nutmeg before serving.

IF YOU COULD DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE IN ONE DISH, WHICH DISH WOULD IT BE AND WHY? I’ve always enjoyed prepar-

ing fish and shellfish, especially sashimi or crudo … the focus being to showcase the clean and pure flavor of the product, keeping it simple while elevating the fish, not masking it.

WHICH CULINARY TREND WOULD YOU LIKE TO DISAPPEAR? I’m not really sure there is a specific trend I’d like to see disappear. Trends come and go and sometimes return later on down the road. As a chef you take what you like from a trend and over time all those influences add up to create your own personal style.

PENDRY WEST HOLLYWOOD 8430 Sunset Blvd.

West Hollywood, CA 90069 tel 310 928 9000 pendry.com

PHOTOS: © PENDRY WEST HOLLYWOOD

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longside the announcement Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group would debut Merois and Ospero at the new Pendry West Hollywood, opened April 2021, the group also announced Mark Andelbradt as executive chef of the property.

Andelbradt began his role as chef at a young age, helping his working mother prepare family meals for himself and his siblings. Following his study at The Culinary School at Kendall College and time spent abroad in Hong Kong and Turin, Andelbradt came back to the United States, working at noteworthy restaurants including TRU, DANIEL New York, Morimoto in New York and Philadelphia, Tao Asian Bistro in Las Vegas and as personal chef for M. Night Shyamalan. He joined Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group in 2010, serving as executive chef at Spago in the Bellagio before moving to Pendry.

At Pendry, guests and locals alike can enjoy Andelbradt’s culinary creations at Merois, on the rooftop, and Ospero, at the corner of Sunset Boulevard and Olive Drive. Merois’s menu will feature Japanese, Southeast Asian and French/ California highlights. Ospero is a casual, street-side, European-style café with a relaxed, all-day menu of salads, pastas, house-made pizzas and more.

2021 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

HOTEL BEST AIRLINE BEST

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The South Pacific________________________________________________________________ To South America and Central America_____________________________________________ To Japan______________________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline_________________________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline__________________________________________________________________

AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World___________________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents____________________________________________________________ Airport Dining________________________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping ____________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport_________________________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . .

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OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program _______________________________________________________ Rental Car Company_______________________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_______________________________________________________________ MICE City ___________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service_________________________________________________________________________ Luggage Brand_____________________________________________________________________ Hotel App___________________________________________________________________________ Airline App__________________________________________________________________________ Best Small- to Mid-Sized Business Program ______________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card___________________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card __________________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events ___________________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program_____________________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card_________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card_______________________________________________

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CRUISING

Immersive Voyages Discover the joys of small-ship sailing.

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Intimate Views: Wilderness adventure in Neka Bay PHOTO: © UNCRUISE

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BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

n this era of 6,500-passenger mega-ships, any cruise vessel conveying fewer than a thousand voyagers is considered a small ship, including high-end luxury liners, deluxe expedition ships and the world’s riverboats. The focus on many small ships is the destination rather than the conveyance, the expert chat rather than the Broadway show, the watersport rather than the casino, the scenery and culture rather than the full-service spa and specialty restaurant. Passengers make a travel style choice, forgoing the options and pleasures of a resort-sized vessel for the deeper, more immersive experience of a yacht-scaled ship.

The smallest of these small passenger ships, those carrying 100 or fewer passengers, make up a tiny but growing share of the cruise market. For some destinations, a very small ship is the best choice — and even the only choice.

This can apply to large, popular destinations as well as to exotic, faraway locations. Take Alaska, for example. After the pandemic scuttled Alaska cruises last year, this year’s much-anticipated turnaround faces some rough waters. Canada

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extended its ban of all cruise ships carrying more than 100 passengers through February 2022.

No big ships can sail this summer to Alaska from Vancouver, nor from Seattle, unless they are U.S.-flagged. (America’s cabotage rules require foreign-flagged cruise ships sailing between American ports to stop at least once in a foreign port, and nearly all major cruise lines and big ships are foreign-registered.) The two powerhouse cruise lines serving Alaska, Princess Cruises and Holland America Line, are currently too large to call upon or sail from Canada and lack American registration to boot. Cruise operators are working feverishly to modify or suspend these restrictions.

UnCruise Adventures will launch seven of its boutique ships (22–86 passengers) into Alaskan waters from Juneau starting this May. American Cruise Lines will operate three itineraries in Alaska and five in New England.

Five of Lindblad Expeditions/National Geographic’s expedition ships (62–100 passengers) will head up north. And starting May 7, Alaskan Dream Cruises,

BARGE SPLURGE When it comes to very very small-ship cruising, what’s more fun than a barge? With this in mind, luxury travel company Abercrombie & Kent curates weeklong barge cruises throughout Europe and the United Kingdom that can be booked individually or by whole-boat charter. Each barge trip includes onboard dining and beverages, sightseeing excursions and transfers to and from the barge.

the native-owned operator with six tiny ships (10–76 passengers) will cruise Alaska from Sitka, Juneau, Ketchikan and Yakutat. These five operators have Alaska cruising pretty much to themselves for the year, barring changes in maritime regulations. One of the biggest cruise destinations on Earth has suddenly become the exclusive realm of very small cruise ships.

Alaska is not alone. By law, Ecuador’s magical Galápagos

Islands is closed to any cruise ship carrying more than 100 passengers. Several international cruise lines serve the Galápagos year-round. Avalon Waterways runs frequent four-day island cruises on the 16-passenger Treasure of Galapagos, while Viking Cruises has its own Galápagos-based chartered ship, the Viking Santa Cruz II, with 12- and 14-night cruises among the mammoth turtles and fearless iguanas. Lindblad Expeditions stationed two of its very small expedition ships in the Galápagos, too: the 48-passenger National Geographic Islander and the 96-passenger National Geographic Endeavour II, with 7- to 16-day cruises departing twice a week. Two major luxury cruise lines maintain year-round operations in the Galápagos, as well. Celebrity Cruises’ 100-passenger all-suite Celebrity Flora offers two seven-night itineraries, while Silversea’s new 5-star, all-suite 100-passenger Silver Origin does much the same.

Wherever big ships can’t go, whether due to geography, regulation or pandemic, small ships fill in. And riverways worldwide remain the special preserve of the small ship, especially in Northern Europe, where demand is strong for this year’s tulip festival and Christmas market cruises.

In 2022 the European river cruises will focus on Floriade, Holland’s international floral exhibition and garden festival held just once every 10 years in Almere (near Amsterdam), April 14–Oct. 9. But better book now. Floriade cruises are expected to sell out at least a year ahead.

The vessels are long and slim, accommodating just 6–20 passengers, with outside-facing staterooms, en suite bathrooms, bicycles and sundecks.

Many are based in France, such as the six-guest Meanderer, which wanders the upper Loire, and the six-guest Roi Soleil, a private charter fit for a king on the Canal du Midi.

Farther afield, La Nouvelle Etoile is a Dutch treat for eight springtime guests, La Bella Vita accommodates 20 passengers on the Venetian Lagoon, the Magna Carta has room for eight on the River Thames, and the Scottish Highlander charms search parties of eight on Loch Ness. Not to be outdone, the Shannon Princess transports 10 guests at a time along the River Shannon, calling at local pubs and a whiskey distillery.

Alaska Adventure: Guests on a skiff wearing masks (top), and salmon served on Safari Quest (bottom) PHOTOS: © UNCRUISE

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PHOTO: © ATIT PHETMUANGTONG | DREAMSTIME.COM

FEATURE: COVID-19 VACCINE

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Have Vaccine, Will Travel COVID-19 immunization may play a major role as we strive to return to travel.

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he global COVID-19 epidemic has shown the world how dangerous a pandemic can be to both people’s health and their lives. The coronavirus, as it was known at the time it took over the world last March, effectively shut down the global economy, closing borders and canceling international flights even as scientists grappled with how best to quarantine, curtail infectious transmission and treat those with severe symptoms.

A year later we are still asked to curtail our travel, minimize social contacts, wear masks and maintain distance. As a result, people are now COVID-weary. But the emergence of several approved vaccines holds promise that a rebound of international travel might be possible without the stringent restrictions and quarantines in place in many destinations. And it can’t happen soon enough. However, the challenge will be to restore public confidence in the safety of travel.

Recognizing the need to continue courting public confidence in safe travel, Delta recently extended its policy of keeping the middle seats unoccupied through April. Delta’s chief executive, Ed Bastian, also hired a chief health officer as part of an overall move to brand Delta as a premium, health-conscious carrier.

In a message that went to all customers, he expressed optimism and expected to see an “inflection point in the spring” as consumer confidence grows, vaccine distribution expands and travel restrictions ease.

President Biden’s executive orders in January included speeding up production of personal protective equipment and supplies; increasing testing capacity; and requiring mask wearing during interstate travel in airports, airplanes, intercity buses and trains. This same executive order now requires all travelers to produce negative COVID-19 tests upon returning to the United States.

Overall, there seems to be general

BY KARIN LEPERI

Travelers will need to feel safe and secure in terms of their health being protected. Unfortunately, quarantines don’t work well, as they are costly in terms of money and time. Without proper monitoring, many individuals fail to honor quarantine requirements.

For those who need to work, the choice becomes one of whether they have the money to buy food or not.

Until recently, a mixed bag of negative

OVERALL, THERE SEEMS TO BE GENERAL AGREEMENT THAT CONSISTENCY AND HARMONIZATION OF RULES AND PROTOCOLS REGARDING INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL IS ESSENTIAL TO RESTARTING TOURISM. PLUS, COUNTRIES NEED TO EASE CUMBERSOME RESTRICTIONS AND DO AWAY WITH CONSTANTLY CHANGING REQUIREMENTS.

agreement that consistency and harmonization of rules and protocols regarding international travel is essential to restarting tourism. Plus, countries need to ease cumbersome restrictions and do away with constantly changing requirements.

For example, I flew to Peru in March and, even though I was vaccinated, I still had to produce a negative COVID-19 test within 72 hours of departure. I also was required to quarantine for 14 days once I arrived in Peru. I had to fill out a health form questionnaire online before re-entering the United States.

COVID-19 tests, rapid testing and quarantines defined a patchwork approach by countries and businesses on how best to restart international travel. For now, the near future for travelers and the travel industry may be defined by proving either recent negative testing or having been vaccinated for the coronavirus.

Which brings us to the vaccine passport. Essentially, this documentation proves the traveler has been inoculated against COVID-19 with an approved vaccine. As of now, versions of a vaccine passport or pass are being worked on

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'TO RE-ESTABLISH CONFIDENCE IN THE TRAVELING SECTOR, IT WILL BE NECESSARY FOR PEOPLE TO VACCINATE, MAINTAIN SOCIAL DISTANCING, USE HAND SANITIZER OFTEN AND CONTINUE WEARING A MASK.' — Dr. Siddharth Mushrif

to incorporate negative COVID tests. The airlines, industry groups, nonprofits and technology companies are participating with the objective of digitizing the data so it can be presented on your mobile phone or in an app.

Already, countries are taking the initiative in launching vaccine passports. Denmark announced plans to launch its own digital vaccination passport in which a national website will confirm vaccinations, with a digital passport likely the next step. Estonia, Romania and the Seychelles say they will accept travelers who can prove they have been vaccinated, while Bahrain just launched a digital COVID vaccine passport for its citizens.

But science, research data and analysis first need to catch up with the

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global desire and need to massively vaccinate. The efficacy of vaccinations to prevent transmission should support the desire to restart international travel. According to Dr. Siddharth Mushrif, a Cincinnati nocturnist who treated COVID-19 inpatients since the start of the pandemic, “It is necessary to gather sufficient data that shows vaccinated people cannot carry the virus and do not transmit it if a vaccine passport is to be effective.” He added that a vaccine passport as the way forward for future travel makes sense because people want to feel safe.

Dr. Mushrif emphasized, “To re-establish confidence in the traveling sector, it will be necessary for people to vaccinate, maintain social distancing, use hand sanitizer often and continue wearing a mask.” All this is necessary to have enough of the population vaccinated so herd immunity can take effect.

Herd immunity postulates that when a large part of the population becomes immune or resistant to the virus, the spread of the disease becomes unlikely. In other words, the chain of transmission is disrupted.

Most scientists seem to think the threshold for the coronavirus may be 70 percent or higher. But no one is certain, and that percentage can differ based on new emergent strains that potentially start a new trajectory. In addition, the available COVID-19 vaccines are most effective at preventing serious illness, but that doesn’t rule out the possibility vaccinated travelers

could still spread the virus.

Barbara Land, executive director, Nevada Building Hope Foundation, hoped the Pfizer vaccination she received in January and February 2021 would enable her to safely go back to the Peruvian Amazon by March. After abruptly leaving last March when the country closed down, she now needs to continue with projects for the river villages that include building a high school in Ayacucho Village as well as sponsoring projects in arts, education, dance and sports, medical missions and student internship opportunities. But because of new strains emerging in the Amazon and an overloaded hospital and medical infrastructure, her vaccination status still doesn’t make her feel safe.

“I was hoping to go back to the Amazon by April but am now postponing until June in hopes that the country has time to develop a more coordinated medical response to a recent resurgence of COVID-19 cases that have strained the system,” Land said. For travel and tourism to restart in Peru, travelers need to feel safe and also need to know medical care is available should they get ill.

Most likely the future of travel will involve the need for people to either prove vaccination or deliver a negative COVID-19 test

as a condition for travel. “Some countries will probably go for the travel vaccine passport for travelers who want to enter the country, while other countries may continue to use negative COVID-19 tests and quarantines,” said Carla Viv, an American dentist who stayed behind last year in Peru to help the U.S. Embassy repatriate Americans. She added that the way we used to travel changed, and travelers will need to adjust to new protocols if they want to continue their journeys around the world.

Those who choose not to vaccinate may need to accept the outcome that they are not welcome on international flights, cruises and possibly at large spectator events. The world already has a precedent in denying travel to certain African countries unless travelers can show they have had a yellow fever shot.

Tony and Joanne DiBona of San Diego, avid travelers for decades, said they can’t travel soon enough, as the pandemic put their favorite activity on strict hold for the past 15 months. “Since our early retirement, our greatest joy in life has been discovering new destinations around the world. Fortunately, we have now received both vaccine doses, so we are very much anticipating our next travel adventure. It brings back a sense of hope and joy to know we may be able to see our beautiful world again soon.”

Precautions: COVID-19 vaccines, mask wearing and social distancing are key to safe traveling.

PHOTOS: © AKESIN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © THANAKORN PHANTHURA | DREAMSTIME.COM

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FEATURE

Close Encounters Share amazing moments with wildlife in destinations around the world.

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tosha National Park, an arid, salty-white landscape in northern Namibia, is home to the world’s largest elephants. Size is relative; the only true measure is to stand next to one. So here I am in Etosha, face to face with a full-grown bull elephant. How is it possible? How have I not been squashed?

The secret lies in the pane of elephant-proof glass between us.

I am in the hide at Olifantsrus Camp; the elephant drinks from the waterhole immediately on the other side of the window. He appears to be aware of me, but thirst is his greater concern. He

Waterhole: Elephants at Olifantsrus Hide, Etosha National Park, Namibia PHOTO: © RICHARD NEWTON

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BY RICHARD NEWTON

sucks huge quantities of water into his trunk, then hoses it into his mouth. I gaze up, awestruck.

My lifelong passion for wildlife has taken me all over the world, giving me many memorable encounters. Few have been as close as this. In any venture into the wilds, you need to adhere to two overriding priorities: Minimize disturbance to the animals and ensure your own safety. This remarkable hide gives you proximity without compromising those priorities.

Later, from the hide’s upper level, we look directly down on a lioness as she drinks. We can hear every lap of her tongue and

Into the Wild: Leopard at Kruger National Park (top left), grizzly bear (right), and Galápagos penguin playing underwater (bottom left) PHOTOS: © RICHARD NEWTON, © PÄR EDLUND | DREAMSTIME.COM, © RICHARD NEWTON

can see her tawny hide shudder in response to the flies buzzing around her.

Melodic birdsong provides the soundtrack as the sun sets and the light fades.

Eventually the lioness pads off into the advancing dusk as another elephant herd cautiously makes its way toward the waterhole. The end of an unforgettable day.

We travel for many reasons. Whether on business or for leisure, experiencing different places and cultures is endlessly enriching. But traveling to watch wildlife adds an extra dimension. Nothing can be taken for granted.

You can spend hours looking with no reward, or you can have a once-in-alifetime encounter. Nothing is guaranteed, and anything is possible.

In Alaska I once flew by floatplane to Kaflia Lake in Katmai National Park. We coasted to the shore, where I jumped from the floats onto the beach. The intention was to hike to a safe overlook close to a waterfall where we might see grizzly bears catching salmon. It was early September, the peak time for grizzlies fattening up on fish before their winter hibernation. My two companions were still on the floats when one of them pointed a finger

along the beach. There, unmistakably, was a grizzly bear heading my way.

The golden rule in almost every encounter with a dangerous animal: Don’t run. Separated from my companions, too far from the plane to retreat, I had no option but to hold my ground. The bear reduced the distance and didn’t notice me at all until he was around 30 feet away. He suddenly stopped and sniffed the air, then made a detour around me. I didn’t breathe until his shaggy hulk began to recede.

Not every close encounter proves as dramatic as that. On Ecuador’s Galápagos Islands, a two-hour flight west of the South American mainland, the unique animals show little fear of humans. Time and again you find yourself checking your stride to avoid stepping on a lava lizard or a marine iguana or a seal pup. Once, while I was photographing a Galápagos hawk, a Galápagos mockingbird landed on my head and perched happily for a minute or two.

Wildlife viewing in the Galápagos Islands presents a form of culture shock. The usual rules that govern interactions between humans and animals appear to have been rewritten. The apparent tameness of the wildlife is

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ON ECUADOR’S GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS, A TWO-HOUR FLIGHT WEST OF THE SOUTH AMERICAN MAINLAND, THE UNIQUE ANIMALS SHOW LITTLE FEAR OF HUMANS. Nap Time: Seals sleeping on the beach at Hood Island, Galápagos PHOTO: © RICHARD NEWTON

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noticeable in the sea as well as on land. Immediately off the island of Bartolomé, I was snorkeling above a reef busy with fish when a feathery shape torpedoed past me, trailing a comet’s tail of bubbles. Then again, from another direction. And then again, brushing my arm. It was a Galápagos penguin, and there was no doubt what it was doing: It was playing with me.

We humans have given wild animals many reasons not to trust us, which is why so many sightings are distant and fleeting.

They know we represent a threat and are therefore wary. But sometimes those broken bonds of trust can be restored. One place where that happened was Tswalu Kalahari Reserve in South Africa.

At daybreak one cold morning, I found myself waiting with my wife in an area of Kalahari scrubland amid a scattering of holes. When the rising sun cast its light on the holes, first one head popped out, then another, then another. Before long, around 50 meerkats emerged, standing upright on their hind legs, allowing the sun to warm their bodies. Drowsy baby meerkats tried to follow the example of the adults, but kept falling asleep and toppling over. Gradually the heat of the day took hold, and the meerkats headed off to hunt, leaving us behind. But for 20 remarkable minutes, they seemed to accept us as part of their group.

These are just some of the extraordinary moments I have shared with wild animals. There have been many others. My wife and I spent three months self-driving in South Africa’s Kruger National Park (a vast reserve the size of Israel). For most of that time we were based in the central area of the park, where we got to know the territories and habits of several individual leopards.

We spent many hours with them, watching them hunt and — more often — sleep. The thrill never waned.

In Uganda I trekked through the thick vegetation of the appropriately named Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to spend an incredible hour with a family of mountain gorillas. Most of the time they ignored us, but two young gorillas became ever bolder, culminating in one of them stalking up to me, touching the lower leg of my trousers, and then lolloping away with a squeal of triumph.

On a trip to Australia, I had to adapt to a whole new cast of characters: marsupials. Besides kangaroos, wallabies, koalas and wombats, I also learned to identify pademelons, quolls, quokkas, bilbies, bandicoots and potoroos. Best of all, one night in northwest Tasmania I crawled on my belly to within a few feet of a wallaby carcass positioned outside a hide and watched two Tasmanian devils viciously squabble over it.

Madagascar, when I visited nearly 30 years ago, offered a similar wildlife wonderland, full of species found nowhere else on Earth. The lemurs — primitive primates distantly related to us — usually get top billing, but I have always had a particular interest in snakes, and it was there I got to handle a Malagasy tree boa, which twined around my arms and eventually disappeared down the neck of my shirt. It took several minutes to coax it back out.

When you encounter animals in the wild, it works best when it’s on their terms, making these experiences magical. Modern human life all too often is concerned with being in control. Face to face with a wild animal, for once we relinquish that control and recognize our relative place in the scheme of things.

Face to Face: Young mountain gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda (above), and a kangaroo on Kangaroo Island, Australia (left) PHOTOS: © RICHARD NEWTON

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[Hanok(Myeongjae House), Nonsan, Korea]

business destinations 48

SINGAPORE

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SAVANNAH

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TOKYO

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BUENOS AIRES

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OSLO

leisure destinations 62

DOHA

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BUDAPEST

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DOHA

For the Birds: Traditional Arabian pigeon house in Katara Village PHOTO: © RON BERNTHAL

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VIRGINIA BEACH

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KIAWAH ISLAND

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COZUMEL

DESTINATION ONE | SINGAPORE

Singular Style Singapore forges ahead with investment in bold innovations.

BY RICHARD NEWTON

Natural Environment: (left to right) The observation point next to Kingfisher Pond in the Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, a small saltwater crocodile resting on a tree trunk, and hornbills PHOTOS: © YEZHENLIANG | DREAMSTIME .COM, © LILLIAN TVEIT | DREAMSTIME.COM, © HASLINDA | DREAMSTIME.COM

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or all its cosmopolitan trappings, Singapore remains, at heart, a tropical island. The city planners determinedly preserved greenery amid the high groves of concrete and glass, and for a complete escape from urban bustle there still remain patches of the jungle and mangroves that covered the island when Sir Stamford Raffles first established a trading outpost here in 1819.

His outpost became the city we see today. Can nature truly

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survive in one of the most densely populated countries on Earth? It must.

Singapore’s health and well-being depend on it. The country has acknowledged that truth for decades and made efforts to preserve habitats.

Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, on the island’s northern coast, is one of the most important of these natural remnants. Protecting an area of 320 acres, it offers a vital stopover for migratory birds and a home for otters, snakes and even saltwater crocodiles.

The largest remaining patch of jungle lies in the center of the island, enfolding the city’s main reservoirs and for decades the location of Singapore Zoo and its Night Safari, now part of an ambitious project to create a unified natural attraction, Mandai Park. In 2019 a forested wildlife bridge was constructed to connect patches of rainforest previously separated by a highway. Other elements of the Mandai project will include a new bird park, a rainforest park and aerial walkways. After completion in 2023, this new eco-tourism hub is expected to attract 10 million visitors each year.

Occupying an island half the size of greater Los Angeles, Singapore has always known environmental issues can’t be sidelined; they must be faced. Sustainability remains at the fore of every planning decision, resulting in a city ranked among the most sustainable in Asia and the world.

In 2019 Singapore introduced a carbon tax with the aim of reducing carbon emissions and improving energy efficiency. All companies that produce more than 25,000 tons of greenhouse gases now pay a tax of S$5 per ton, with the revenue invested in green projects. Initially the tax will raise electricity prices for all Singaporeans, though improved energy usage will offset the rise.

One seemingly unavoidable consequence of inhabiting a small island is that Singapore must import more than 90 percent of its food. The carbon footprint of importing produce from neighboring Malaysia and beyond proves significant. But in typical Singapore style, innovative solutions will tackle that issue.

Urban farming is one of the country’s fastest-growing sectors. Some of these farms utilize slivers of land or even rooftops, while others employ high-tech methods to grow produce indoors on an industrial scale. Sustenir Agriculture, one of the pioneers of this new industry, grows kale and other greens in a climate-controlled, multifloor building.

LODGING

DINING

Raffles Hotel The epitome of colonial style since 1887, Singapore’s most famous hotel reopened in 2019 after a two-year renovation.

The upgrade retains the unique Raffles ambience.

328 Katong Laksa You’ll find many places in Singapore where you can try laksa, a spicy noodle soup, but this no-frills eatery is widely regarded the best.

Several 328 Katong Laksa locations are around the city.

1 Beach Road $$$$

216 E. Coast Road $$

The St. Regis Singapore Art, luxury and elegant accommodations merge with award-winning culinary delights, signature butler service and a convenient location at this 5-star property.

Folklore This modest but popular restaurant tells the story of Singapore’s multiethnic heritage through food with a mix of Chinese, Malay, Indian and European influences. Folklore reopens June 2021.

29 Tanglin Road $$$$

Destination Hotel, 700 Beach Road $$$

The Warehouse Hotel A 19th-century riverside spice warehouse (godown in local parlance) reinvented as a chic, 37-room hotel offers an inspired blend of industrial heritage and modern Singaporean design.

Zén A special-occasion restaurant overseen by Björn Frantzén, Sweden’s first 3-Michelin-starred chef, serves spectacular food … but at a price: about $350 per person for the set menu.

320 Havelock Road $$$$

41 Bukit Pasoh Road $$$$

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Sustainable City: Solar-powered Supertrees (top), and Airbus' s Skyways parcel delivery drone (bottom) PHOTOS: © JASON YODER | DREAMSTIME .COM, © AIRBUS

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Back in the 19th century, Sir Stamford Raffles identified Singapore as perfectly situated to be a major international trading hub, and so it has proved. But how to be a linchpin of international transport routes and also be sustainable? That’s a challenge Singapore currently addresses.

On the southwestern corner of the island, work is underway on the $20 billion Tuas Mega Port, opening in phases between this year and 2040. Fully automated, the port will be as energy-efficient as possible. According to Singapore Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong, the ultimate aim is nothing less than to “rethink the future

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of shipping.”

Singapore proves one of the few places that fulfill the science fiction vision of the 21st century many of us had in childhood. The 160-foot manmade supertrees in the downtown Gardens by the Bay are indicative of that. At night especially, spectacularly illuminated with colorful, solar-powered, LED lights, the trees immerse visitors in an otherworldly scene straight out of Star Trek.

Some of the country’s other innovations, though more prosaic, are equally cutting-edge. With living space at a premium, Singapore unveiled an Underground Master Plan in 2018. Initially it will develop a new network of common services tunnels, efficiently channeling water and waste as well as power and communication cables beneath the streets. In the longer term, the city will relocate more of the road and rail infrastructure underground, using natural caverns as storage facilities and even as reservoirs.

Meanwhile, services utilize the air above the city.

Singapore Skyways, a project owned by Airbus, already employs automated drones in a parcel delivery system.

The drones currently shuttle items between shore and the many ships anchored off Singapore. Ultimately, they’ll be used for deliveries in and around the city and even as passenger taxis. The future starts in Singapore.

JUST THE FACTS Time zone: GMT +8 Phone code: 65 Currency: Singapore dollar Key industries: Banking, financial services, biotechnology, petrochemicals, construction, tourism

INFO TO GO International flights arrive at Singapore Changi Airport, located approximately 12 miles northeast of downtown. Mass Rapid Transit, the city’s highly efficient metro system, offers the least expensive transport to the city. Purchase single- or multi-ride tickets at the station.

Taxi fares to downtown range $20–40.

PHOTO: © RAFFLES SINGAPORE

With new enhancements, Raffles holds more of a multigenerational appeal. The look and feel of the restored Raffles is elegantly sophisticated and chic. Wonderful new furnishings, décor and art sit beautifully within the hotel’s historic spaces. The new suites, restaurants, bars and public areas have a vibrancy that will connect with today’s sophisticated traveler. The new interiors retain the original charm and heritage and combine with elements of modernity. In this sense, the suites reminisce the past while still being contemporary to meet the needs of a savvy traveler.

While building on and retaining our own concepts such as Tiffin Room, Writers Bar and Long Bar, we are pleased to introduce restaurant collaborations with Chef Anne-Sophie Pic of the three-Michelin star Maison Pic in Valence, France; venerable French Master Chef Alain Ducasse; and Chef Jereme Leung, known for his innovative Chinese cooking.

CHECKING IN WITH CHRISTIAN WESTBELD General manager, Raffles Hotel Singapore In mid-2019 Raffles Singapore debuted the results of a two-year restoration. How did the hotel renovate while also paying homage to its iconic history? Recognized as a national treasure among Singaporeans, Raffles Hotel Singapore offers an unparalleled experience with its perfect blend of ambience, service, charm and heritage. We worked closely with our heritage consultants and partners to ensure the renovation process was carefully researched, developed and executed to retain our iconic heritage.

The restoration introduces new experiences for our guests and local community, created to ensure the hotel remains at the epicenter of Singapore’s social and cultural scene. These experiences include the new Raffles Arcade, housing a meticulously curated selection of new-to-market, bespoke and iconic brands and a brand-new Raffles Spa.

As we all know, 2020 threw a curveball at the travel industry. How has Raffles Singapore handled the pandemic? Since starting to accept reservations post-circuit breaker in mid-July 2020, the responses have been healthy and encouraging. The incoming bookings are primarily driven by our curated staycation offers. Our uniqueness and recognition as an oasis within the city assisted us to become a preferred destination over the last months.

A highlight is our history tours, offered to guests who stay with us. In July 2020 we added extra daily slots to cater to the increase in demand. Staycations also opened up our perspective to the preferences of local guests, quite different from our international guests.

Of course, guests enjoy these moments with safe distancing in mind since the hotel adopted the Singapore-initiated SGClean campaign, as well as the ALLSafe regime as our basic hygiene and safety standards.

What do you see for the future of hospitality in Singapore as travel begins to rebound?

Singapore ranks highly amongst the safest places to live during this pandemic. Having said this, predictions for international travel to hit pre-COVID levels are expected by 2023; hence, the key focus for the coming year will be on domestic “travel” and events.

In Singapore, vaccinations are fully under-

way in the local community, and Raffles Hotel Singapore already has more than 75 percent of our colleagues vaccinated. Focus remains on how to safely resume international travel and what digital vaccination passport program will be moving forward. As we expect the minimum length of stay for travelers will increase, we are creating offers to enhance guests’ overall experience as we continue to engage and entertain.

With most international guests not being able to visit the hotel physically at the moment, we identified and nurtured the importance of developing virtual business tools, including virtual site inspections, 360-degree panoramic visuals of hotel spaces and facilities as well as content to highlight measures to cope with the effects of the pandemic.

Which local attractions and activities do you recommend for travelers to Singapore?

Here at Raffles, we’ve worked with our local partners to launch specially curated heritage experiences that guests may book as part of their staycation offers, such as a private museum tour to understand the intricacies of the Peranakan culture at The Intan, a bicycle tour through the civic district enveloping Raffles Hotel Singapore and more.

Gardens by the Bay remains the premier national garden and horticultural attraction in Singapore, as well as Singapore Botanic Gardens, the first and only tropical botanic garden on UNESCO’s World Heritage list.

Visitors may spend a day on Sentosa Island, home to exciting events; themed attractions; award-winning spas; lush rainforests; and golden, sandy beaches.

What new developments in Singapore are you most eager for? With the easing of stricter regulations, we can begin to focus on in-person events, especially weddings and local-driven events, gradually resuming with recommended guidelines in place. We remain ready to take in overseas events once activated. We have taken the opportunity to intensify our digital infrastructure, partner communications and virtual engagement, helping to create demand and deliver valuable updates.

The local dining scene developed tremendously in the last five years and continues to flourish. At the recently announced Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, eight local establishments made it to the list!

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COMING AND GOING All U.S. citizens require a passport valid for at least six months beyond the last day of intended stay. No visa is required for stays of less than 90 days. Regular visitors (more than three past visits within a year) can apply for the Singapore-United States Trusted Traveler Program to accelerate clearance through immigration.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE English, Malay, Tamil and Mandarin. English is the main language of education, administration and business.

DIVERSIONS Millions of people have been to Singapore without having been to Singapore. How is that possible? The answer lies at Changi Airport, 12 miles northeast of downtown. Day and night, airliners arrive and depart from an airport consistently voted the best in the world. Singapore Changi Airport exists as a destination in its own right.

In 2019 the airport unveiled Jewel, a $1.3 billion “Lifestyle Hub” featuring an indoor rainforest, a seven-story circular waterfall descending from a funnel in the glass roof, a glassfloored walkway, mazes and a children’s playground. Transit passengers (after passing through security) mingle with daytripping Singaporeans for whom the site has become a popular recreation spot.

Airports are not renowned for environmental credentials, but Singapore Changi employs numerous initiatives to help mitigate its impact. The design uses natural light productively to reduce electricity consumption, many outdoor surfaces incorporate recycled concrete, and the facility converts its food waste into water. As air transport becomes increasingly controversial, Singapore likely will lead the way in looking for solutions.

In downtown Singapore a lack of space long presented one of the most pressing problems. In 1992 the completion of an ambitious land reclamation scheme gave the city a new 890-acre district, Marina Bay. One of the first developments there, the Marina Bay Sands Hotel, with three towers bridged by outdoor observation decks, already touts its status as one of the 21st century’s iconic buildings.

Close by, the 18 supertrees in the Gardens by the Bay

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contribute another fixture of Singapore’s futuristic skyline. In December 2019 an observatory opened in the largest of the supertrees, providing visitors with stunning views from 165 feet up.

For all its modernity, Singapore hasn’t forgotten its origins.

The Colonial District, centered on the Padang, a grassy sports field, still preserves a number of red-roofed, white-columned buildings from the British colonial period. Nearby, beside the Singapore River with the skyscrapers of the Central Business District for a backdrop, stands the statue of Sir Stamford Raffles, the man who arrived on this mosquito-infested tropical island and imagined a city.

Height of Design: Singapore Changi Airport waterfall (top), and Marina Bay Sands and the Helix Bridge (bottom) PHOTOS: © JECKY LIM | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ASHWIN KHARIDEHAL ABHIRAMA | DREAMSTIME.COM

PHOTOS: © BO LI | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SVETLANAZ | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALEXEY STIOP | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MELPOMENEM | DREAMSTIME.COM, © GILLES BIZET | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALEXANDER SHALAMOV | DREAMSTIME.COM,© ROBERT KNESCHKE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ENGEL CHING | DREAMSTIME.COM

GET SOCIAL Make Global Traveler your travel companion! Like our Facebook page; connect with us on LinkedIn; and follow us on Twitter @GTmag #travelnews and #traveldeals, Instagram @globaltravelermag #snapshots and Pinterest pinterest.com/global traveler for travel updates, deals and more. Share your updates with us by using #globility. If you haven't checked them out lately, here's a sampling of what you may have missed:

With travel making a comeback, it’s time to start planning a trip to Madrid, Spain.

Keep an eye out for the first nonsmoking, non-gambling luxury hotel, Majestic Las Vegas, in Las Vegas.

SoJo Spa Club: Tranquility with an urban view

Louisville’s The Galt House completes its $80 million renovation.

As the vaccine rolls out and travel picks up, start dreaming of your next international trip. For inspiration, take a visual journey through Florence, Italy, with us.

Fly Air France with peace and ease.

Obsidian’s Outdoor Adventure series takes wine out of the tasting room and into nature with a fun and educational new series.

The new Caribbean portfolio from luxury tour brand Excursionist spans 12 islands, where travelers can explore the destinations in new and enriching ways.

With travel starting to slowly pick up, it’s time to plan your vacation to beautiful Amsterdam.

STATESIDE | SAVANNAH

Southern Hospitality Plant Riverside District redefines Savannah’s riverfront. BY JAN SCHRODER

Engaging Spaces: Plant Riverside (left), and a chrome dinosaur in Generator Hall (right) PHOTOS: © COURTESY OF PLANT RIVERSIDE DISTRICT

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illions of visitors a year navigate the uneven, hand-laid cobblestones along River Street in Savannah, visiting the dozens of shops, restaurants, hotels and attractions housed in the former cotton warehouses lining the Savannah River.

Last year the riverfront of Georgia’s oldest city transformed with the opening of the $375 million Plant Riverside District, which extended the riverfront by 1,100 feet and developed a once-seedy part of the city into a popular mixed-used development housed in a former 1912 power plant.

Hospitality brand The Kessler Collection, founded by the Kessler family, whose roots in Savannah date back to the 1730s when the city was founded, developed the district.

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“We love Savannah, and we saw in this site the opportunity to create something Savannah didn’t have and what it needed,” said Mark Kessler, president, COO and son of founder Richard Kessler. “The location on the river was ideal and had so much potential.”

After purchasing the property in 2012, the company solicited input from and brainstormed with members of the community for ideas about what to develop. “Our vision was to create a family-friendly entertainment district and redefine what the riverfront is. It was like nothing we had done before, and we wanted it to be a legacy for our company.”

Phase One of the development opened in summer 2020.

When the second phase opens this summer, Plant Riverside District will have 419 hotel rooms, a collection of shops, more than a dozen restaurants, a parking garage, meeting space, a live music venue and two rooftop bars.

A bronze statue of Martin Luther King, Jr. will be the centerpiece of the new Martin Luther King Memorial Park,

SCENIC DRIVES

an expansive green space with an outdoor stage, terrace lawn and large interactive water fountain with daily light shows.

A popular feature of the development is Generator Hall. Yes, it’s the spacious lobby of the JW Marriott Savannah Plant Riverside District, but you’ll think you’ve walked into a natural science museum where a 135-foot chrome dinosaur welcomes you to explore. Wander around and you’ll see massive geodes, fossil exhibits, an Ice Age bear skeleton and a prehistoric tortoise shell.

The Plant Riverside District received an enthusiastic response from visitors and locals in Savannah, where tourism and hospitality are major economic drivers. “We have engaged the community and made Plant Riverside District an economic generator for the community,” Mark Kessler said. “It has been a catalyst for more development at that end of River Street.”

“The new JW Marriott Hotel and Plant Riverside Dis-

trict have already become what developer Richard Kessler envisioned — a game-changer,” said Joseph Marinelli, president, Visit Savannah. “Even through its opening during the middle of a global pandemic, Plant Riverside has already begun to transform Savannah’s waterfront experience for locals and visitors alike. From the giant geodes to the historic nature of the power plant to the array of new shops and dining experiences, Plant Riverside is a destination unto itself, within one of America’s most popular visitor destinations — Savannah.”

Part-time residents Mindy and Mike Egan agree with that assessment. “Plant Riverside is a fantastic addition to an end of River Street that badly needed an upgrade,” Mike said. “We love that there is something to do and see for every member of the family, from the high-end restaurants to the stunning artifact displays in the hotel lobby to our favorite: the rooftop patios. We have added it to our list of ‘must-sees’ for any visitors that come to town.”

Travel just 10 miles from downtown Savannah to reach the Isle of Hope and one of the most beautiful estates in Georgia, Wormsloe Historic Site. Noble Jones built the tidewater estate on 500 acres he acquired in 1736. The most spectacular feature of the site is the 1.5-mile entrance lined with 400 towering, moss-covered oak trees planted in the 19th century. Take a tour or view the ruins of his home and hike the wooded trails on your own before heading to the residential section of Isle of Hope along Bluff Drive to see stunning mansions overlooking the Intracoastal Waterway.

Head south down Highway 17 and you’ll pass rivers, historic ruins and several of Georgia’s 15 barrier islands. The four Golden Isles, the most popular for tourists, lie about 1.5 hours from Savannah. Sea Island and Little St. Simons are private islands; however, there’s plenty to see on St. Simons and Jekyll islands. Walk out on the pier and visit the shops and restaurants at St. Simons Pier Village. Drive through Jekyll Island’s Historic District. The island became famous as a winter retreat for the wealthiest families in the country in the late 1800s. Make a stop at Driftwood Beach, where giant bleached trees dot the sand like sculptures.

Step into the Past: Wormsloe Historic Site (above), and house on Isle of Hope (below) PHOTOS: © VISIT SAVANNAH

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MICE | TOKYO

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Innovation and Inspiration Immerse your team in modern and traditional Japanese culture in Tokyo.

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et’s toast our event with Japanese wine.

That might sound like a joke. Japanese wine? You mean rice wine? No, Japanese wine. Red or white, fermented from Japanese grapes. At first sip you know you’re tasting something of genuine quality. Why have you never sampled it at home? Because hardly any of it is exported; it is mostly consumed domestically. To try the full range of varieties, you must come to Japan.

The wine is just one reason among many to choose this unique country for your MICE event.

There’s nowhere quite like Japan, and RESEMBLING FOUR UPSIDEthe MICE options DOWN PYRAMIDS BALANCED reflect that. Tokyo, in particular, boasts ON FOUR STOCKY SUPPORT a well-developed COLUMNS, TOKYO BIG SIGHT MICE infrastrucOPENED IN 1996, INSTANTLY ture, including experiences tailored BECOMING AN UNMISTAKABLE for small or large FIXTURE OF THE SKYLINE IN groups.

Business Events THE WATERFRONT AREA. Tokyo offers teambuilding sessions involving sushi making, robot building or taiko drumming. All require teamwork.

Other cultural experiences available include karate lessons, flower arranging and learning the art of the tea ceremony.

Cultural HIghlights: Tokyo International As you’d expect of a sophisticated metropolis Exhibition Center, of 9 million people, you’ll find no shortage of or Tokyo Big Sight world-class venues. The flagship is arguably the (top), Japanese wine (bottom left), and taiko Tokyo International Forum, with 1.5 million drumming (bottom square feet of floor space in four buildings and the right) flexibility to accommodate everything from a small PHOTOS: © VOYATA | business meeting to a major exhibition. The Forum DREAMSTIME.COM, © EQ ROY | DREAMSTIME will host weightlifting competitions for the 2020 .COM , © COWARDLION | DREAMSTIME.COM Tokyo Olympics, rescheduled for this summer.

Tokyo invested nearly $4 billion in infrastructure and facilities ahead of the Olympics, including upgraded expressways and expanded rail stations. Despite the coronavirus pandemic, the International Olympic Committee pledges a safe event, with infection prevention measures in place for the delayed games.

BY RICHARD NEWTON

Another heavyweight venue is the Tokyo Conference Center Shinagawa, located in Shinagawa District. The venue boasts two halls and a range of boardrooms on three floors, all just a short walk from Shinagawa Station, with convenient connections to Haneda and Narita International airports and to the country’s bullet train network.

Tokyo Big Sight (also known as the Tokyo International Exhibition Center), is the most distinctive venue in Tokyo and the biggest exhibition space in Japan. Resembling four upside-down pyramids balanced on four stocky support columns, the building originally opened in 1996, instantly becoming an unmistakable fixture of the skyline in the Waterfront Area. The venue features five exhibition spaces, three conference halls, a ballroom and numerous smaller meeting rooms.

In addition to dedicated venues, most of Tokyo’s international hotels (of which there are many) offer MICE facilities. Park Hyatt Tokyo, the unforgettable setting of the movie Lost in Translation, occupies the top 14 floors of a 52-floor tower with stunning views of the cityscape and Mount Fuji on a rare clear day. The hotel has three versatile function rooms as well as boardroom facilities and private dining options.

The Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo, in Nihonbashi District (styled “Fusion City” in tourism literature because of its blend of old and new), has 14 event spaces, the largest of which can seat up to 260 people. Every event includes an assigned dedicated manager and can fold in cultural experiences as part of the program, including its new Mindful Meetings approach which incorporates wellness in every meeting to inspire and energize participants.

Japanese cuisine should feature in any visit to Tokyo, and where better to experience it than in a restaurant that recreates the atmosphere of the Edo Period? Tofuro, in the swank Ginza District, comes complete with an indoor street, a running stream and several traditional wooden buildings.

The seasonal menu includes, of course, sushi and sashimi. MICE groups can rent out an entire floor for up to 100 people or private rooms for two to 100 people.

UNIQUE VENUES Alongside all of the standard internationalclass venues, Tokyo offers a variety of unusual options.

The Maxell Aqua Park within the Shinagawa Prince Hotel belongs to the breathtaking category. The exhibits combine aquarium displays with interactive technology as well as a central pool for spectacular dolphin shows. The Aqua Park can be hired exclusively after it closes to the public at 10 p.m., either for stand-alone events or to supplement events in the more formal surroundings of the hotel’s ballroom. aqua-park.jp Tokyo is so unrelentingly urban it is hard to imagine rural Japan lies within easy reach.

Around 90 minutes inland from downtown, close to the city of Ashikaga, is Coco Farm & Winery. The winery produces Japanese variants of European wines (Chardonnay, Merlot) as well as genuinely Japanese wine derived from the local Koshu grape. Sample some of the wines in a tasting room suitable for small groups, and enjoy vineyard views from the terrace of a small café. cocowine.com

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9–5 | BUENOS AIRES

Zest for Life European sophistication meets Latin passion in Buenos Aires.

BY ARI BENDERSKY

Art Scene: Couple dancing the tango in front of the sculpture Floralis Genérica PHOTO: © ELULTIMODESEO | DREAMSTIME.COM

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ntil you visit, you may never know the extent of Buenos Aires’ cosmopolitanism. From design and architecture to technology and banking — and across all the arts — Buenos Aires truly has a global feel that rivals Paris, New York and Tokyo. While it’s on the water, Buenos Aires is not a beach destination like Rio but rather a port city — hence locals are called Porteños and have a zest for life and want to share it with all who visit.

Almost as soon as you enter this beautiful Argentine capital, it becomes obvious just how fantastic this energetic metropolitan city truly is. You’ll likely spend most of your time between upscale, classic Recoleta; chic, eclectic and fashionable Palermo; and the romantic and gentrified San Telmo, where you’ll find a sprawling open-air antique flea market each Sunday. But the Central Business District of La Citi, between the San Nicolás, Montserrat and Retiro neighborhoods, is home to the Buenos Aires Stock Exchange, Argentina’s Central Bank and other financial institutions.

No matter where you gather with colleagues and clients, you’ll notice quite quickly

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the European influence on the city’s architecture. Waves of immigrants from Spain, Italy and Germany — and what now comprises the world’s sixth-largest Jewish community — all arrived in Buenos Aires in the 19th and 20th centuries, bringing with them design, culture and gastronomy. All over the city their impact can be observed by simply walking around the neighborhoods and looking up at the homes and buildings. You’ll especially see it at Teatro Colón, one of the most important opera houses in the world, where singer Maria Callas famously performed and which offers group tours. At the Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires, modern and folk art converge in permanent and rotating exhibits. You can experience it in any number of the city’s top spots to watch the romantic, sensual tango shows — and learn a few moves yourself in this, the world’s tango capital. You’ll even encounter it in La Recoleta Cemetery, a neighborhood in its own right where some of the city’s most important residents, including Eva Perón, are buried.

When it comes to business, Buenos Aires’ numerous industries converge. In 2017 the city was named a smart city due to its welcoming attitude toward innovation, entrepreneurship, technology and app development. The newer Buenos Aires Exhibition and Convention Centre hosted the 2017 Smart City

: Creative Cuisine: Local parrilla (top), street food sandwich with New York strip steak and chimichurri sauce (middle), and coffee at Café Tortoni (bottom) PHOTOS: © EVA808 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALEKSANDR VOROBEV | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MAX MAXIMOV PHOTOGRAPHY | DREAMSTIME.COM

Expo World Conference, where visitors from around the world came to discuss open government, sustainable urban planning, digital innovation and city life. In late 2018 Buenos Aires welcomed the G20 Summit for the first time, coinciding with Argentine president Mauricio Macri serving as the head of the powerful Group of 20.

While all this business activity may seem vast and even disparate, one thing that ties most things together in this fast-paced city — where dinners often don’t start until 9 or 10 p.m. — is a vibrant cocktail culture. Whether you’re meeting over lunch at one of the many parrillas (steakhouses) like Don Julio, having drinks after work or going out to bars or clubs after dinner, cocktail culture thrives in Buenos Aires. You can find great drinks everywhere, whether in upscale Recoleta hotels like the Four Seasons, Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt or the Alvear Palace Hotel; cool boutiques like Fierro Hotel, Mine Hotel and Faena Hotel; or in hip bars and speakeasies throughout the city.

Consider entertaining at Florería Atlántico, one of the world’s most celebrated bars, which honors the city’s immigrant culture. Hidden behind a secret door inside a working flower shop in Recoleta, this speakeasy bar, on the World’s 50 Best Bars list, serves a cocktail menu reflecting global cultures. A few blocks away, Presidente Bar from celebrated mixologist Seba Garcia offers sophistication not only in the décor but also in the drinks.

If your clients are more serious about their cocktails, ask the Presidente staff to open the door to the Library, a hidden bar tucked away through a door off a hallway at the back of the bar, where an entirely different batch of cocktails emerges, sure to impress. Across town in Palermo, cocktails converge with gastronomy, and ingredients like sesame oil, acai caviar, blue cheese and pumpkin syrup drive the flavors at Anasagasti.

Buenos Aires may seem meat-heavy, but don’t be fooled into thinking the city doesn’t have a vibrant culinary scene ready to please any palate.

The aforementioned Jewish population is making headway, opening a number of innovative restaurants like Mishiguene and Fayer from celebrated chef Tomás Kalika, introducing Porteños to a mix of Middle Eastern and Eastern European delicacies with a modern twist. Vegan and vegetarian cuisine pushed to the fore and is available at places like Bio. Local cuisine gets celebrated at El Baqueano in San Telmo, where you’ll find tri-colored quinoa, llama tartare and wines from throughout Argentina all paired to an experiential tasting menu. And cafés with locally roasted coffee and yerba mate abound.

Whether this is your first visit to Buenos Aires or you’re coming back to mix business with pleasure, you’ll find many new discoveries while connecting with clients old and new. Because when all is said and done, nobody is a stranger in Buenos Aires — at least not once you finish that first round of cocktails with the table of Porteños next to you.

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AFTER 5 | OSLO

Northern Nights No matter the season, Oslo reveals a lively spirit. BY GREGORY D. MCCLUNEY

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slo is one of Europe’s smallest capitals, with a population of only 672,000. Its Scandinavian latitude means long, dark winters and many cold nights. Summers, short and sweet, are the time to get outside and enjoy spectacular scenery.

Citizens take ecology seriously, as evidenced by an extensive recycling program and the cleanest roadways you’ll find anywhere. Visitors are in awe of its pristine fjords, named by National Geographic as “the best unspoiled travel destination in the world.” During those long winters, people have their favorite places to entertain friends and clients or just hang out and relax, regardless of weather.

If you prefer to combine some shopping with a taste of Norwegian nightlife (some bars don’t serve until 9 p.m.), a good place to start in central Oslo is the main pedestrian street, Karl Johan, with its designer shops, upscale bars and restaurants. Or stay warm in the downtown shopping malls: Paleet, Eger and Steen & Strøm. Then venture to Hegdehaugsveien, another great street for shopping.

For evening cultural offerings, check out the performances at Oslo Opera House on the waterfront.

Or stroll the Aker Brygge and Tjuvholmen seaside areas and meet some locals relaxing after work. There's always live music at Victoria, Oslo's main jazz venue.

Not many years ago, if you walked into an Oslo pub for a beer, you had one choice. Now, one pub alone, Schouss Brewpub, offers a rotation of 60. Or chill out with a sub-zero experience at Magic Ice Bar, where the warm welcome includes a winter poncho and gloves so you can enjoy the signature drink served in an ice glass in comfort. A gallery of ice art depicts famous works by Norwegian artists like Edward Munch.

Good music and Latin cocktails draw customers to Perla, a cozy neighborhood bar. For the dance crowd, rave away at The Villa, a techno club. Sample the fare at a Japanese pub, Izakaya, which features a great selection of saké paired with traditional plates, or try Aku-Aku, a tiki bar in the center of the Løkka area.

For LGBTQ+ visitors, the capital takes pride in welcoming everyone, but of particular note is London Pub, downtown, an institution in Oslo since the 1970s.

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On the Waterfront: Aker Brygge (top) and Oslo Opera House (bottom) PHOTOS: © VALENTIN ARMIANU | DREAMSTIME .COM. © VICHAYA KIATYINGANGSULEE | DREAMSTIME.COM

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NEIGHBORHOODS | DOHA

World Stage Fast-paced Doha gears up for FIFA 2022. BY RON BERNTHAL

S

ince winning the bid to host the 2022 FIFA World Cup (Nov. 21–Dec. 18), Qatar’s glimmering social, political and commercial capital city of Doha worked nonstop to expand its hospitality venues and improve its infrastructure. It channeled investments into the construction of new hotels, shopping malls, conference centers, cultural attractions and a brand-new metro system.

In addition, Qatar is building six new World Cupquality soccer stadiums (and renovating two more) in Doha, Qatar’s capital, and in four nearby suburban cities. All stadiums feature cooling systems to combat the desert heat, and all lie within 20 to 30 minutes of city center Doha, a great logistical amenity for World Cup visitors.

Qatar is a small country, just 0.12 percent the size of the United States, but its profitable oil and natural gas exports make it the world’s richest country.

During my first visit to Doha in 2014, developers were constructing upscale neighborhoods for the thousands of expats working for local multinational firms, art museums with outstanding collections, and dozens of university buildings for local and foreign students. Doha’s growth in the past decade has been phenomenal; and although many international travelers call Doha a “baby” Dubai, this baby is growing extremely quickly.

In this sunbaked city everything moves at bullet speed. High-rise residential, commercial and hotel towers quickly sprout in every neighborhood like colorful Lego blocks. New asphalt highways shimmer in the heat, slithering their way across the desert to green, oasis-looking golf courses and to the gated suburbs beyond.

The city built its three Metro lines in just two years, enabling sleek airconditioned trains to glide through the city with efficiency and speed. Visitors may enjoy the 39 ultra-modern Metro stations and avoiding traffic jams, but wealthy locals find it difficult to shun their Mercedes, Porsches and Maseratis for public transportation.

Doha is home to several diverse neighborhoods, including some built only within the past few years. In centrally located West Bay, office towers come alive at night with light shows on their façades, and the Corniche, a four-milelong waterfront promenade, proves perfect for strolling or biking during cooler months or on early summer mornings before the temperature rises above 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Visitors will find many hotels and restaurants in this area as well as in the nearby City Center Mall, one of the largest shopping and restaurant malls in the Middle East.

A favorite neighborhood is Al Jasra, home to Souq Waqif, the city’s historic Bedouin marketplace that began in the late 1700s. Although beautifully restored, its narrow alleys, the maze of small stone shops and cafés and the ubiquitous knots of buyers and sellers haggling over prices all provide one of the few clues in modern Doha of the city’s Arabian past. The souk offers thou-

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sands of items to buy, everything from carpets and Bedouin scarves to incense, nuts and spices. Visit the souk in early evening when strings of soft lights line the alleys and Qataris sit at outdoor cafés with glasses of tea or coffee, enjoying the cooler but still sultry air.

The elite, artificial island of The Pearl-Qatar occupies two square miles of reclaimed land adjacent to the West Bay lagoon. It houses an upscale residential development with luxury apartments, villas and townhouses, all with beautiful views of the sea, harbor and nearby marina. For lunch or dinner here visit Medina Centrale, a Mediterranean-inspired town square with an intriguing selection of restaurants.

Modern and Traditional: New Metro station (top), and Souq Waqif (bottom) PHOTOS: © HUFTON+CROW, © QATAR NATIONAL TOURISM COUNCIL

FRIENDS & FAMILY | BUDAPEST

Romance on the River Take to the water and explore Budapest’s splendor at a leisurely pace.

BY KIMBERLY KROL INLANDER | CHADNER NAVARRO CONTRIBUTED TO THIS ARTICLE.

All Aglow: (Left to right) Night view of the Budapest Parliament on the Danube River; and the ancient Fisherman`s Bastion, or Halászbástya, at sunrise PHOTOS: © ROB3RT82 | DREAMSTIME .COM, © ZOLTAN GABOR | DREAMSTIME.COM

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t every turn Budapest reminds you it is one of Europe’s great imperial capitals, but perhaps this storied grandeur is most obvious from a boat meandering down the Danube River, a rolling, glistening body of water that splits the city into the Buda and Pest sides. On my most recent visit to the Hungarian capital, a river cruise with my now-husband in 2019, we arrived via the Danube … and at night. Believe me when I tell you there’s no better way to view the city, as the lit-up Hungarian Parliament Building proves a breathtakingly exquisite sight.

We sailed the Danube with U by Uniworld right after the New Year. Several river cruise lines ply these waters and will sail you into Budapest in the same spec-

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tacular way, including Uniworld Boutique River Cruises, Viking River Cruises, Avalon Waterways, Tauck, Scenic and AmaWaterways.

On my first trip to Budapest, on a tour of eastern Europe with my father in 2008, we arrived the traditional way, by air, and I can assure you that no matter your entry into the city, you will marvel at the architecture, and the beauty and splendor will still rivet, entice and leave you in awe.

And should you not arrive in Budapest on a boat, you can still take to the Danube with various boat tour options. The boat trips will likely operate at a leisurely pace, allowing you to take photos and selfies with outstanding monuments like the Gothic stunner that is

INFO TO GO Budapest’s Ferenc Liszt International Airport lies about 12 miles from the center of town. Official transportation companies (for both private and group transfers directly to your hotel) operate manned kiosks conveniently placed at baggage claim and throughout airport terminals. Barring extreme traffic, a private car service into the city should cost around $25.

the Hungarian Parliament or the pointed towers of Matthias Church on the Buda side or as you sail underneath the 19th-century Chain Bridge, especially once it’s lit up for the evening.

Various options exist for exploring Budapest via waterway, including Budapest Danube Boat Tour, Budapest River Cruises – Silverline and Admiral River Cruises. Experience the grandeur of the Danube after dark with Night Cruise Budapest or Dinner & Cruise Budapest.

For my husband and me, our first actual taste of Budapest was a plate of traditional meats and potatoes at Great Market Hall Budapest. As our visit coincided with the start of the new year and it was early in the day, the market was quiet. However, this popular spot usually buzzes with locals and tourists. Shop and dine across the three floors of the large, beautiful building opened in 1897. Guided tours with tastings make an ideal option for first-timers. The 19th-century Downtown Market Hall and Feny Street Market also offer plenty of choices.

The food scene in Budapest should not be missed, and our stomachs only wished we had more time to fully immerse ourselves in all the culinary delights. I, in particular, am disappointed we missed sampling the classic street food of lángos, fried dough topped with shredded cheese and sour cream. From street food to food halls to Michelin-starred eateries, travelers can taste it all in the city. Mák Bistro shies away from the heaviness of traditional Hungarian cuisine in favor of a locavore menu featuring foraged ingredients. An important aspect of a visit to Budapest is to recognize its pre-war history and lasting influence: Café Kör serves up a taste of that time in its atmosphere and classic, unadulterated Hungarian cuisine.

Onyx, previously Budapest’s only restaurant with two Michelin stars, is currently undergoing its “metamorphosis,” with diners eager to see its latest identity. And when it comes to nightlife, ruin bars are the rage, built in the ruins of abandoned buildings and stores and largely located

LODGING

DINING

Aria Hotel Budapest by Library Hotel Collection One of Budapest’s 5-star options, this city-center hotel is inspired by music of all types. Creature comforts include a stress-busting spa.

Borkonyha Winekitchen This Michelin-star winner serves elegant but unfussy dishes full of flavor. Try any of the countless labels of the offered 200 Hungarian wines.

Hercegprímás Utca 5 $$$$$

Sas Utca 3 $$

Brody House All 10 rooms in this atmospheric fin de siècle building are individually decorated with so much personality you could easily imagine one as your own city apartment.

Kiosk An all-day dining destination combines great décor, delicious food and a hot spot atmosphere with a fabulous riverside location and views of one of the city’s bridges.

Bródy Sándor Utca 10 $$$

Március 15 Tér 4 $$

The Ritz-Carlton, Budapest In the heart of town, this grand and contemporary hotel offers stylish hangouts including a lobby lounge under a stunning rotunda and a beautifully tiled swimming pool under a glass ceiling.

Erzsébet Tér 9-10 $$$$$

Mazel Tov Located in the old Jewish Quarter, Mazel Tov brings a Mediterranean vibe to Budapest.

Relax and enjoy the cuisine indoors or outdoors — the garden is open in summer and heated in winter.

Akácfa Utca 47 $$$

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in the District VII neighborhood, the old Jewish Quarter.

Slow things down and find relaxation at one of Budapest’s historic baths dating back to the time of the Romans. Of the more modern iterations, the most famous is Gellért Baths in Buda. Though temporarily closed because of the COVID-19 pandemic, the massive wellness complex comprises a thermal bath (packed with minerals to help treat circulation problems, inflamed joints and other conditions), saunas and a variety of pools. Massage therapists are available if you or your companion want to elevate your visit. But its architectural splendor is another reason this specific bath proves so popular. About 100 years old now, the Art Nouveau construction features glass roofs, mosaic tiles, intricate wall sculptures and more.

Because of the diversity on offer, from Baroque to Neoclassical to Ottoman, pay close attention to Budapest’s vast architectural landscape; it really will blow you away. Keep your eyes peeled for Art Nouveau (or Szecesszió in Hungarian), the period in which the city truly flourished. Architect Ödön Lechner’s works were a prominent product of this period, so seek out the structural beauty of the Szent László Gimnázium and the Geological Museum. For something else especially unique and local, add the stunning Zsolnay porcelain tiles to your architecture hunt. Considered Hungarian design treasures, the tiles, glazed with iridescent eosin, are most evident on the roofs of the capital’s most emblematic buildings including the Museum of Applied Arts, Postal Savings Bank (both designed by Lechner) and Matthias Church.

But many more structures feature these tiles, which gained massive popularity at the beginning of the 20th century, so get on the new Ferris wheel in the center of town. It offers incredible views of downtown and a peek at the Zsolnay-covered roofs and façades.

If it’s really head-turning views you’re craving, you’ll want to catch the sunset at Aria Hotel’s High Note SkyBar, one of the few rooftop boîtes in all of Budapest. Pick a yellow-cushioned seat, order a glass of rosé and marvel at the scene around you: a spellbinding medley of red-roof apartments and the dome, statues and towers of St. Stephen’s Basilica.

Architectural Detail: Museum of Applied Arts with Zsolnay porcelain tiles PHOTO: © BETTINA WAGNER | DREAMSTIME.COM

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2021 Leisure Lifestyle Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

Best Beaches ___________________________________________________________________________

Best River Cruise Line __________________________________________________________________

Best Historical Attractions, Domestic __________________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Entertainment _______________________________________________________

Best Historical Attractions, International _______________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Dining ________________________________________________________________

Best Adventure Destination, Domestic_________________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Spa ____________________________________________________________________

Best Adventure Destination, International _____________________________________________

Best Cruise Ship Excursions ___________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in the United States _________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Rewards Program ___________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Europe_____________________________________________________

Best Cruise Port ________________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Africa ______________________________________________________

Best Luxury Leisure Hotel Group in the World _______________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Asia________________________________________________________

Best Hotel Chain Resorts ______________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Latin/South America______________________________________

Best Pet-Friendly Hotel ________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Mexico_____________________________________________________

Best Family Resort Chain in the World ________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination for Groups (Four or More)___________________________________

Best All-Inclusive Resort_________________________________________________________________

Best Weekend Destination in North America__________________________________________

Best Tour Operator_____________________________________________________________________

Best Weekend Destination in the World_______________________________________________

Best Airport for Layovers_______________________________________________________________

Best North American Ski Destination___________________________________________________

Best Airport Recreation_________________________________________________________________

Best International Ski Destination______________________________________________________

Best Stopover Program_________________________________________________________________

Best Caribbean Island _________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Airline ____________________________________________________________________

Best Island in Europe __________________________________________________________________

Best Airline Onboard Entertainment___________________________________________________

Best Island Pacific Rim _________________________________________________________________

Best Airline Onboard Menu_____________________________________________________________

Best Family Cruise Line ________________________________________________________________

Best Premium-Economy Class ________________________________________________________

Best Luxury Cruise Line ________________________________________________________________

Best Pet-Friendly Airline ________________________________________________________________

Best Value Cruise Line__________________________________________________________________

Best Luxury Vehicle ____________________________________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Suites _________________________________________________________________

Best Car Rental _________________________________________________________________________

Best Adventure Cruise Line ____________________________________________________________

Favorite Luxury Watch Brand __________________________________________________________

Best Small-Ship Cruise Line ____________________________________________________________

Best Destination Jewelrey Brand _______________________________________________________

Best Large-Ship Cruise Line ___________________________________________________________

Favorite Liquor Brand___________________________________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or fax to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/leisureballot Name Street Address City

State

ZIP Code

Home Phone

Email

TOURS | VIRGINIA BEACH

Beyond the Boardwalk Explore the wilder side of Virginia Beach. BY GREGORY P. MCCLUNEY

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ne of the East Coast’s more popular beach destinations offers many of the usual beach amenities, but also look for a wild side beyond the attractions, boardwalk bars and beach restaurants. Virginia Beach offers an array of tours, but many activities work best when self-guided.

While the weather can be unpredictable, this beach destination at the mouth of Chesapeake Bay goes beyond the ordinary selection of tours and attractions, primarily because of its unique geography. Most visitors arrive by private car, but two major regional airports — Norfolk International Airport and Newport News Williamsburg International Airport — also serve the area. Upon arrival, start by stretching your legs on the three-mile boardwalk. The water is usually calm and the setbacks to the water are wide.

There’s a lot to see along the Atlantic Avenue and Oceanside boardwalk corridors, including shops with beach gear and clothing and excellent restaurants serving local seafood. The wide boardwalk features separate lanes for bike riders. And walkers. And joggers. In summer, several stages offer live entertainment. Don’t miss the photo op at the sculpture of Neptune. At the south end of the boardwalk lies Rudee Inlet, where you can pick up a charter fishing boat, rent a bike or just enjoy the scenery and waterside dining (try Big Sam’s Inlet Café & Raw Bar).

Next, escape the beach crowds and explore the wilder, natural side of Virginia Beach. Many tours can be self-guided, such as a trip to Sandbridge Beach, where it will mostly be just you and the birds. Or visit First Landing State Park for a nature walk. Not far is the National Wildlife Refuge, a link to the Atlantic Flyway, or take a wetlands zip tour for a thrill under the canopy.

After all this nature, pause for a tasting at Tarnished Truth Distilling Co. in the newly renovated Cavalier Virginia Beach hotel and spa. Drop by the Cape Henry Lighthouse, and then wrap up your day with a sunset dolphin kayak tour.

Before your departure, take a tour of the Military Aviation Museum and get back on the water for a whale tour aboard Atlantic Explorer.

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Summer Days: Virginia Beach boardwalk and statue of Neptune (top), New Cape Henry Lighthouse (left), and First Landing State Park (above) PHOTOS: © SHERRYVSMITH | DREAMSTIME.COM, © WILLIAM WISE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © RZYOTOVA | DREAMSTIME.COM

FOR

ALL THE MOMENTS WE STAND UP

JOE MANGANIELLO Stand Up To Cancer Ambassador

Since 2008, Major League Baseball® has supported Stand Up To Cancer in its mission to fund groundbreaking research and get treatments to patients faster than ever before.

Join us as we stand united to show our support for loved ones affected by cancer.

Visit StandUpToCancer.org/MLB

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BUCKET LIST | KIAWAH ISLAND GOLF

Golf in the Lowcountry Place South Carolina’s Kiawah Island Golf Resort high on your must-play list. BY DALE LEATHERMAN INFO TO GO Kiawah Island Golf Resort is located 21 miles from Charleston, South Carolina, and Charleston International Airport, serving daily nonstop flights from 26 U.S. cities.

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“K

iawah Island offers golfers the opportunity to play five championship courses, each one a unique design from five of the world’s leading architects,” said Brian Gerard, director of golf, Kiawah Island Golf Resort. “Among them is Pete Dye’s internationally renowned masterpiece, The Ocean Course, which features the most seaside holes in North America. The venue for this year’s PGA Championship (May 17–23), it also hosted the famous 1991 Ryder Cup and the 2012 PGA Championship. The resort offers an abundance of diverse accommodations (including The Sanctuary, a Forbes 5-Star beachfront hotel), 10 miles of beach, more than a dozen restaurants and an array of other recreational programs, all of which make Kiawah Island Golf Resort a unique golf destination.”

Life moves at a leisurely pace on Kiawah, a balmy Lowcountry barrier island. It would be a travesty to play the resort’s golf courses as a marathon. Instead, treat the experience

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like a five-course dinner, savoring the nuances of each one before moving on to the next.

THE OCEAN COURSE (7,356 yards, par 72, 144/77.3)

With its vast waste areas, wetlands, elevated greens and pot bunkers fringed with shaggy grasses, this is an extraordinary test of golf and a feast for the eyes. As often happened with the Dyes, a suggestion from Alice became a gamechanger. When Pete raised the course level to give every hole an ocean view, the east-west track became exposed to wind off the ocean that often proves penal. Club choices can vary as much as eight clubs, so your caddy quickly becomes your best friend. There are many signature-worthy holes, including the 221-yard, par-3 Hole 17.

Water wraps the front and right side of the green, and two pot bunkers guard the left side of the two-tiered target.

COUGAR POINT

OSPREY POINT

(6,814 yards, par 72, 134/72.7)

(6,902 yards, par 72, 135/72.8)

Located on the other end of the resort from the windswept Ocean Course, the Gary Player-designed Cougar Point is still subject to wind but with less ferocity. Rather than ocean views, the layout is scenic because of its interaction with the Kiawah River and marshland. There are several encounters with the river and lakes, but wetlands can prove the biggest challenge. The fourth hole, handicapped No. 1, is threatened by marsh along the right. The 458-yard, par 4 doglegs right and plays into the wind, with bunkers positioned in the crook of the fairway. The 11th hole of Player’s 2017 redesign featured in The Legend of Bagger Vance.

TURTLE POINT (6,911 yards, par 72, 134/73.0)

A 2016 Jack Nicklaus renovation planted Turtle Point in salt-resistant paspalum grass, now on all five courses. The layout flirts with the ocean on three holes, starting with No. 14. The downwind, 171-yard par 3 has a tricky ball-gathering depression in the center of the green. Hole 15, a 375-yard par 4, poses two choices: Approach from the left to a green that slopes away or stay right and attempt a partial blind shot over a dune. The next hole, a 177-yard par 3, is subject to wind off the ocean, sometimes requiring a leapof-faith seaward shot in hopes the wind will bring it back on target.

Though it never engages the ocean, Osprey Point encounters water at almost every turn. Tom Fazio’s redesign features generous fairways and greens, but those gifts are offset by a plethora of lakes and ponds. This is especially true on the ninth hole, a 461-yard par 4 ranked the most difficult. The danger lies in the drive, a daunting water carry which must be precisely placed.

The focal point is a bunker centered in the landing area. Aiming left of it chances a bounce into water bordering the fairway. Going right of the bunker leaves a longer approach shot, but the green is large and open to run-ups.

Water and Wind: (Left to right) Oak Point Hole 18, Cougar Point Hole 6, Turtle Point Hole 16, Cougar Point Clubhouse, and The Atlantic Room dining at The Ocean Course PHOTOS: © KIAWAH

OAK POINT

ISLAND GOLF RESORT

(6,701 yards, par 72, 130/71.9)

Clyde Johnston’s design is the only resort course located inland on the west side of the Kiawah River. Considered the easiest of the five layouts, it still offers a respectable shot-making test that involves the river, Haulover Creek or other bodies of water on 17 holes. What could possibly go wrong? Accented throughout with ancient oaks, the course ends with a picture-perfect hole. Visible from the elevated back tee of the 406-yard par 4 is a panorama of the river and creek. There’s a water carry off this tee, but the bigger threat is the marshy area in front of the green and wrapping around the right side.

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KICKING BACK | COZUMEL

By the Sea Escape to Cozumel to soak up Caribbean sun and fun.

BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY

Tropical Treasures: El Cedral ruins (above), and (opposite page, left to right) traditional Yucatán-style breaded shrimp and fish taco plate, and swimming with dolphins PHOTOS: © ALEKSANDR KUTIAVIN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © PETER MARIK | DREAMSTIME .COM, © RAMUNAS BRUZAS | DREAMSTIME.COM

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ur air-conditioned motor coach whisks us off to the edge of the sea by the dramatic El Mirador. This coastal walk along the rugged eastern shoreline of Cozumel offers a popular lookout from a sea-carved rock arch. The selfie crowd deals with their selfie sticks to take photos of the unusual natural limestone formations as we carry on our coastal tour to other sandy stretches.

For cruisers, in winter the unspoiled blue waters, untamed beaches and the freshest seafood dishes are ready to tantalize any taste bud on the compact island of tropical Cozumel. The most important cruise destination in Mexico, Cozumel ensures sun-seeking vacationers who want to kick back get to sample a full spectrum of activities, dining and entertainment.

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Visitors will find evidence of a rich history of the great Maya civilization at the ruins of San Gervasio and the fertility temple of El Cedral, considered the island’s first Maya sacred site. Located in the state of Quintana Roo, this island swath of white-sand beaches earns the accolades of the Mexico Tourism Board as “the place in Mexico to receive the first sunrays.”

Blessed with a great marine biodiversity ideal for diving, Cozumel boasts a ribbon of coral reef framed by white-powder beaches. The setting offers a slice of marine paradise: Think dreamy, undulating landscapes framed by warm azure waters and rich tropical foliage that add endless ecotourism opportunities by both land and sea to this sun-kissed tropical mix.

Off the coast of Mexico’s Riviera Maya, by the water’s edge in a shallow, submerged platform, a pod of dolphins performs tricks, smacking their fins in the water and squealing with sounds like laughter. It is time for my dolphin encounter. I exchange looks with my other half as I take my instructions and wait for my cool dolphin moment.

“When they come at you, assume the dead man float and let the dolphins push you straight up in the air,” says our instructor. On cue, tickling sensations from a pair of them hit my heels, thrusting me fast and furious across the warm water. Before you know it, I’m flying up, up

LODGING

DINING

Cozumel Palace Each of this all-inclusive resort’s 169 guestrooms boasts ocean views and a double whirlpool bath. Snorkel right off the hotel dock with provided gear and enjoy nightly shows, four restaurants and the Awe Spa.

Casa Mission Dining by candlelight at this colonial-style hacienda is a favorite pastime; the other is dining on the Mexican and seafood dishes with a musical trio performing Mexican classics.

Sur Ave. Rafael E. Melgar Km. 1.5.55, San Miguel de Cozumel $$$$

Av. 55 between Av. Juárez and Calle 1 Sur, San Miguel de Cozumel $$–$$$

Presidente InterContinental Cozumel Resort & Spa In addition to its private beach, a spa and four on-site restaurants, guests enjoy access to the resort’s own dive center offering reef diving and snorkeling trips with expert instructors.

Carretera A Chankanaab Km. 6.5, Cozumel $$$$ Thompson Beach House Experience an upscale bohemian vibe in relaxing Mexican surrounds at this luxury boutique beachfront property on the fabled Riviera Maya, a short walk from Playa del Carmen’s bustling Quinta Avenida.

Calle 82, Playa del Carmen $$$$

La Choza Cozumel A favorite hole-in-the-wall frequented by locals and tourists located near San Miguel’s central square, this popular restaurant is known for its traditional Maya flavors and seafood.

Calle 10 Norte 216, San Miguel de Cozumel $$ El Muellecito, Cantina Marisquería This sports bar/brewery features sunset dining in a casual atmosphere, located on the upper level of this popular oceanside strip mall.

Melgar & 11th Avenue, San Miguel de Cozumel $$–$$$

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In the Swim: Scuba diver and turtle at a reef PHOTO: © WHITCOMBERD | DREAMSTIME.COM

INFO TO GO A number of major airlines offer direct flights between Cozumel International Airport and Mexico City and other North American cities, and air shuttles conveniently connect Cozumel to Cancún on the mainland. The airport lies just 3.5 miles from the hotel zone. Hotel guests can prearrange transfers with their accommodations.

Other options include taxis (prepare to pay in cash — pesos or U.S. dollars are accepted — as few accept credit cards), car rentals or shuttles. Tickets for these may be purchased beyond customs.

Most major cruise lines, including luxury Crystal Cruises and global cruise company Royal Caribbean International, call here and offer enriching shore excursions with authentic, local experiences in and around Cozumel.

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and away, standing above the sea with arms stretching spreadeagled like Leonardo DiCaprio’s in the film Titanic. It was an unforgettable experience. For the wet and wild encounter, it’s best to wear a swimsuit under cover-ups and sun protection and bring a change of clothes.

On cruise days the island’s main city of San Miguel morphs into cruise central. With the arrival of cruise passengers, expect downtown to get busy. Diners head to the restaurants. Shoppers explore the scads of souvenir shops. The atmosphere turns electric as local musicians play impromptu Mexican tunes and pedestrians stroll through the square and marina.

At Playa Mia Grand Beach Park, cruise guests strut to lively salsa music at a dance class and later refresh by the crystal-clear waters in this classic Caribbean moment. Families seek out the Buccaneer’s Bay area helmed by a pirate ship, where water sprays and animal slides await. Other families venture off to the natural wonders of Faro Celerain Eco Park, aka Punta Sur Eco Beach Park, the largest ecological reserve in Cozumel. Home to coastal dunes, mangroves, reefs, lagoons and its historic lighthouse museum, the favorite pastimes here are snorkeling and relaxing.

For more sand and surf time, cruisers snag the all-inclusive day pass, Resort for a Day, to one of seven resorts in Cozumel.

It’s the easiest way to eat, drink, play and relax on limited time.

Spot sun worshippers sprawling on a beach with a refreshing drink, sampling seasonal menu items as their significant others sport snorkeling gear and dip into the azure sea while the kids find Nemo at one of the resort pools.

Other cruise passengers head along the Riviera Maya to the

mainland city of Playa del Carmen, a charming beach town of shops, beach and more fun. The famous pedestrian boulevard dubbed Fifth Avenue (Quinta Avenida) runs parallel to the sea.

Meanwhile, we join other outdoor adventure seekers donning wet suits for a spectacular cenote encounter. A massive cavern of fresh turquoise water drips in sharp skewers of stalagmites and stalactites through a secret subterranean river. We push further and further, deeper and deeper, swimming between tight crevices accompanied only by the deep snorkel sounds to keep us company during this underwater quest. Later, by a stunning beach, we join a group of snorkelers directing their masks into the coral reef, seeking colorful fish and turtles.

But it’s back at Cozumel where the world of Jacques Cousteau awaits. The renowned oceanographer once described Cozumel as the best place in the world for scuba diving, and it continues to rank among the world’s best. Deepblu, a dive trip booking platform and the fastest-growing social network for divers and ocean enthusiasts, organizes a quad of amazing dive tours for cruisers in Cozumel. A host of other dive tour companies offer classes and tours in the clear waters and amid abundant sea life.

Ready to tackle the second-largest coral reef system on the planet, scuba divers off Punta Sur plunge into a marine biosphere paradise at Arrecifes de Cozumel National Park, diving past schools of eagle rays, barracuda and toadfish swimming in clusters in a stunning chamber known as the Cathedral.

In Cozumel, the riveting scenes are bound to leave you breathless.

2021 Wherever Awards Ballot Whereverfamily.com, the trusted travel source for the modern family, has opened voting for the 2021 Wherever Awards. Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

Best Family-Friendly Domestic Airline_____________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly International Destination____________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Airline in North America_____________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Domestic Destination________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly International Airline__________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Caribbean Island_____________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Frequent-Flyer Program_____________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Beach Town

Best Family-Friendly Hotel Chain__________________________________________________________ Best Family-Friendly Resort Chain_________________________________________________________ Best Family-Friendly Individual Hotel______________________________________________________ Best Family-Friendly Frequent-Stay Program______________________________________________ Best Family-Friendly All-Inclusive Hotel____________________________________________________

Northeast/Mid-Atlantic U.S. (Maine–Maryland)_______________________________________

Southeast U.S. (Virginia–Georgia)_____________________________________________________

Florida (East)___________________________________________________________________________

Florida (West) _________________________________________________________________________

Florida (Panhandle)____________________________________________________________________

Gulf U.S. (Alabama/Louisiana/Mississippi)____________________________________________

Texas__________________________________________________________________________________

West Coast U.S.________________________________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Pet Hotel_____________________________________________________________

Hawai’ian Islands______________________________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Hotel Kids Club_______________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Multigen Destination of the Year____________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Vacation Company___________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Amusement Park____________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Domestic Tour Company____________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Waterpark____________________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly International Tour Company_________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Rental Car Company_________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Cruise Line___________________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Travel Provider of the Year__________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Multigen Cruise Line_________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Domestic Airport_____________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Cruise Line Kids Club________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly International Airport_________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Credit Card___________________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Airport Dining________________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Credit Card Rewards Program_______________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Airport Shopping_____________________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO:

Name

Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at whereverfamily.com/wherever-awards/

Street Address City Home Phone

State

ZIP Code Email

LGBTQ+

Home Away from Home The world opens up for LGBTQ+ vacation home buyers.

V

acation home ownership has many benefits, and LGBTQ+ globetrotters will find more options than ever in both longtime favorite and newly trending destinations around the globe.

The state of Florida is home to multiple cities that continue to attract second-home purchases — including Fort Lauderdale, which welcomes more than 1 million sun-seeking LGBTQ+ visitors every year, and Key West, long known for its welcoming, laid-back ambience. In the Midwest, Saugatuck, Michigan, offers an especially convenient and attractive location for a second home, especially for city folk from nearby metropolises like Chicago, Detroit and Indianapolis.

Residents of the New York City metropolitan area, meanwhile, are increasingly drawn to nearby hot spots like Sullivan County/Catskills, the upstate area that’s experienced a renaissance thanks in part to new businesses founded by LGBTQ+ residents.

LGBTQ+ people increasingly look to buy in destinations gaining more prominence on the LGBTQ+ travel map. A recent Zillow study, for example, identified Louisville, Kentucky, as a great place to buy, while the city’s multiple pride festivals attest to its friendliness and diversity.

Internationally, the city of Medellín, Colombia, proves increasingly popular with a diverse array of expats, especially since the World Travel Awards recognized Colombia as South America’s Leading LGBT Destination in 2020.

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BY MARK CHESNUT

THE STATE OF FLORIDA IS HOME TO MULTIPLE CITIES THAT CONTINUE TO ATTRACT SECOND-HOME PURCHASES — INCLUDING FORT LAUDERDALE, WHICH WELCOMES MORE THAN 1 MILLION SUN-SEEKING LGBTQ+ VISITORS EVERY YEAR, AND KEY WEST, LONG KNOWN FOR ITS WELCOMING, LAID-BACK AMBIENCE. Those looking for healthy doses of Caribbean sun often consider Puerto Rico one of the most LGBTQ+-friendly islands in the region. Puerto Rico’s commonwealth status also makes it easier for U.S. citizens to visit since no passport is required and there are no restrictions regarding length of stay.

Across the Atlantic, Monaco attracts more attention since becoming a 2021 Featured Destination of the International LGBTQ+ Travel Association. Monaco’s moderate taxation structure and sophisticated culture are additional selling points. Tel Aviv continues to attract second homebuyers as well, with impressive new options like Port Tel Aviv, a new luxury development due to be complete in 2022.

Those looking for a second home can turn to organizations like the LGBTQ+ Real Estate Alliance, a nonprofit organization that aims to connect LGBTQ+ consumers with real estate agents across North America.

Florida Hot Spot: Luxurious waterfront homes in Fort Lauderdale PHOTO: © MEINZAHN | DREAMSTIME.COM

AIRPORT UPDATE

Leaps and Bounds Amid rapid growth, Hamad International Airport continues to put travelers first. BY MARY MELNICK

H

amad International Airport is the sole international airport in Qatar. Replacing the former Doha International Airport, HIA opened in 2014 in the capital city of Doha on the beautiful Arabian Gulf. The architecturally stunning, supremely efficient and welcoming airport serves as home to Qatar Airways and a gateway to the world, accommodating more than 360,000 flights and 30 million-plus passengers every year.

Over the past 10 years, Qatar has grown, increasing the demand at its airports. A decade ago, more than 5 million passengers a year passed through, but that number reached a record 38.7 million in 2019 and will likely continue to rise rapidly. In the near future, Hamad International Airport will complete a new phase of development that will boost capacity to 52 million passengers a year and will include the construction of Airport City.

Airport City will be built next to the airport on 247 acres of land and will offer commercial development opportunities such as a free trade zone, offices and a business park, hotels and a retail mall. The project will extend and diversify the site’s role within aviation generally.

With the ongoing pandemic, Hamad International Airport is taking the needed steps to put the safety and health of its travelers and employees first. Recently, the airport was audited for its health and safety measures and became the first airport in the Middle East and Asia to receive a Skytrax 5-star COVID-19 Airport Safety Rating. The audit evaluated how effectively the airport implements safety policies against Skytrax COVID-19 Hygiene Standards.

The airport recently installed 15 PPE vending machines across its terminal to make it easy for passengers to access various dispos-

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A DECADE AGO, MORE THAN 5 MILLION PASSENGERS A YEAR PASSED THROUGH, BUT THAT NUMBER REACHED A RECORD 38.7 MILLION IN 2019 AND WILL LIKELY CONTINUE TO RISE RAPIDLY. able, washable personal protective items including masks, hand sanitizers, face shields and gloves.

Along with providing safety tools for passengers, it also provides multiple entertainment options. Whether arriving, departing or transferring, Hamad International offers travelers endless opportunities for shopping, dining and relaxation.

With more than 50 luxury retailers; a mix of sit-down gourmet restaurants and on-the-go dining options; and many lounges, spas, sleep pods and more, visitors find plenty of amenities to keep busy during their time at HIA.

Safety First: Self-service kiosks provide smart check-in at the departure area of Hamad International Airport.

PHOTO: © OLGAVOLODINA | DREAMSTIME.COM

HAMAD INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT dohahamadairport.com

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Aeroflot – your route to Russia and beyond The Russian flag carrier offers outstanding service and convenient connections FOUNDED IN 1923, AEROFLOT is one of the oldest airlines in the world. Over the past decade, Aeroflot has transformed under the current management team led by CEO Vitaly Saveliev.

Today, it is the undisputed leader in its home market of Russia, recognized worldwide by industry experts and passengers alike for its high quality of customer service and all-around passenger experience.

Aeroflot today ranks among the largest 20 airlines globally by passenger numbers, carrying 37.2 million passengers in 2019 (60.7 million including the other airlines of Aeroflot Group).

As the Russian flag carrier, Aeroflot maintains a global route network. In the United States, Aeroflot operates flights to and from four destinations: New York City, Washington, D.C., Miami and Los Angeles.

Through its modern hub at Moscow’s Sheremetyevo International Airport, Aeroflot offers quick and convenient connectivity from the United States to destinations in China and across Asia, India and the Middle East.

Aeroflot is also a proud member of the SkyTeam Alliance, giving passengers access to an expanded route network and the unique service of the global alliance.

One of Aeroflot’s strongest competitive advantages is its fleet. The airline operates one of the youngest fleets of any global carrier operating more than 100 aircraft, with an average aircraft age of less than 5 years.

Aeroflot holds 4-Star Airline status from Skytrax, and has been named Best Airline in Eastern Europe eight times at the Skytrax World Airline Awards. It also holds Five Star Global Airline status from APEX, the U.S. passenger association.

Time Performance Review.

Aeroflot also won two categories at the World Travel Awards 2019 — Leading Airline Brand and Best Business Class. The airline was also named the world’s strongest airline brand by Brand Finance, the authoritative U.K. agency.

The airline industry has been among those most affected by the COVID-19 pandemic. But we will emerge stronger from the crisis, and look forward to flying again and giving more passengers the opportunity to experience our warm Russian hospitality and award-winning service.

In 2019, Aeroflot received a 5-star punctuality rating from OAG and was the world’s most on-time mainline airline, according to Cirium’s annual OnLEARN MORE AT aeroflot.com

MEDICAL TOURISM

Jungle Healing Consider a journey to Costa Rica to address medical needs.

BY DEBRA BOKUR

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globaltravelerusa.com APRIL/MAY 2021

PHOTO: © GALYNA ANDRUSHKO | DREAMSTIME.COM

I

t’s probably a safe bet the first thoughts for anyone contemplating an expedition to Costa Rica have to do with tropical beaches, luxury resorts and misty cloud forests rather than hospital stays. Yet this desirable destination — roughly 2.5 hours by air from Miami — has become an appealing address for a wide range of medical procedures that include neurosurgery, cosmetic procedures, dermatology, dental implants, gynecology, and orthopedic surgery and rehabilitation.

Depending upon the individual procedure, savings can be significant, a factor that’s become increasingly important to the growing number of uninsured people and the aging populations in the United States and abroad. In Costa Rica many treatments and surgeries come with a price tag that can be as much as 30 to 80 percent less than the cost for the same procedure stateside. To be clear, these numbers do not reflect substandard doctors or hospitals technologically below par. In fact, many of the physicians, surgeons and nurses staffing state-of-the-art medical facilities in Costa Rica have been trained in the United States and Europe. Cost savings derive from a number of factors that include much lower insurance and administrative fees.

The country’s premier hospitals and clinics serving the medical tourism market achieved respected accreditation from the Joint Commission International, the International Standardization Organization, and the Joint Commission on Accreditation of Healthcare Organizations. Many are also members of the U.S. National Institutes of Health, which offers financial support for research as well as leadership and guidance in the field of medicine.

Hospitals with JCI accreditation include Clinica Biblica in San José, which ranks as the country’s largest private hospital, and CIMA Hospital in Escazú. Another popular choice for international medical travelers is the Clinica Católica in Guadalupe, accredited by the Council for the

IN COSTA RICA MANY TREATMENTS AND SURGERIES COME WITH A PRICE TAG THAT CAN BE AS MUCH AS 30 TO 80 PERCENT LESS THAN THE COST FOR THE SAME PROCEDURE STATESIDE. International Promotion of Medical Services.

In most of these major hospitals, special suites designed for international guests can be arranged. As part of an initiative created by the Medical Tourism Corp. of Costa Rica, all three hospitals also offer the opportunity to convalesce at approved “recovery resorts,” staffed by trained nursing teams that provide post-operative care seven days a week, 24 hours a day in luxury settings with offerings that often include yoga or other relaxing activities. Many also offer the services of tour guides.

When scheduling a procedure in Costa Rica, keep in mind the annual rainy season stretches May–November — so if volcano tours and birdwatching for exotic species are part of your pre- or post-treatment plan, you’ll want to arrange your travel accordingly.

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Best Island Pacific Rim Five Years in a Row

A Thank You from the People of the Cook Islands “Unprecedented” is the choice word used to describe the chaotic times we presently face. The future remains uncertain, this we know. But one thing that will never change is our commitment to all of you.

The Cook Islands may be a small place, where only 18,000 people live, but our tiny population is big in heart. The people of the Cook Islands have remained dedicated to doing everything possible to protect our country during this time – its people, oceans, lagoons, mountains, and environment –and therefore her visitors, able to maintain a COVID-free status even now.

We know you see our islands the way we see them: as a little paradise.

We know this because you, the readers of Global Traveler magazine, have voted the Cook Islands as Best Island Pacific Rim for the fifth year in a row.

Which means you’re already familiar with our crystal blue lagoons, and you’re already aware that our mountains are so lush and green they make it impossible to ever again deny the life-giving, healing power of plants. And you’ve already experienced the staggering We want to sincerely thank you for gracing the Cook Islands with your votes again this year. Our gratitude is only exceeded by our honor in accepting this outstanding award.

For those of you who haven’t visited yet, we are a nation of 15 islands spread over a biodiverse South Pacific sea that’s roughly 3 times the size of Texas. Each of our islands is unique. Several have subterranean networks of caves. One is home to a watery village of shacks built on heads of coral, where divers harvest black pearls. All are unspoiled.

Travelers have compared even the most developed of our islands, Rarotonga, to Hawai‘i before the high rises. fine-dining restaurants. But even on these two islands, most businesses are small and family owned. Our national building code prohibits the construction of anything taller than a coconut tree.

Our mindful approach to development has allowed us to retain a strong sense of community. Visitors often remark on the friendliness of our people. They notice that even the way we say hello – kia orana, which means, I hope you have a long and healthy life – reflects the kindness and the selflessness built into our culture. Travelers also tell us they appreciate how easy it is to mingle with locals and learn about our way of life.

When the time is right, we look forward to welcoming you to our little paradise. And then welcoming you back again, because the percentage of people who only come once, well — that’s little, too.

Meitaki Ma‘ata (Thank You) With Love From A Little Paradise

CookIslands.travel

PREVIEW

Classic Americana Get out to explore the country’s state fairs and other quirky attractions. Learn more when you read the 2021 Leisure Lifestyle Edition.

PHOTO: © BEN GRAHAM | DREAMSTIME.COM

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Live the French way Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills 8555 Beverly Boulevard, 90048 Los Angeles Visit www.sofitel-los-angeles.com

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F IES TA AM ERICANA M É XICO S ATÉLI TE

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F I ESTA AM ER I C AN A VIADUC TO A E ROP UE RTO

As a state-of-the art hotel with friendly service and comfort, this new addition to our collection has everything you need to make each moment of your stay exceptional and memorable.

In the northern region of Mexico City, cutting-edge architecture, elegance and comfort are the defining characteristics of Fiesta Americana México Toreo, an upscale hotel with modern conveniences to ensure a pleasant stay.

Also located in Mexico City, this spectacular 5-star hotel is located 5 minutes away from the international airport, and offers the latest comfort technology.

Safety, hygiene and flexibility program to travel and stay with us again. Program endorsed by the ABC Medical Center. Daily room sanitation or as frequent as guest requests.

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A C A P U L C O • C A N C U N • C H E T U M A L • C O Z U M E L • C U E R N AVA C A • G U A D A L A J A R A • L O S C A B O S • M E R I D A • M E X I C O C I T Y • M O N T E R R E Y O A X A C A • P U E B L A • P U E R T O VA L L A R TA • P U N TA C A N A • Q U E R E TA R O • S A N M I G U E L D E A L L E N D E • S A N L U I S P O T O S I