Global Traveler April 2017

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ANTWERP p. 66 CAPE TOWN p. 62 CASCAIS p. 64 FRANCE p. 70 NASHVILLE p. 58 QUITO p. 60 SAUDI ARABIA p. 52 THAI ISLANDS p. 72

April 2017

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letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

GO GREEN!

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com

IT’S HERE! This issue marks GT’s firstever themed issue: The Green Issue. We timed the issue to coincide with Earth Day on April 22, in its 47th iteration this year. Today, Earth Day is a global celebration, coordinated by Earth Day Network in more than 193 countries.

This issue also looks at green matters from a global perspective, with nearly every one of the articles on the following pages touching on environmentally friendly concerns in some way.

As a traveler, how much do you focus on green issues and your carbon footprint? Whether the answer is a lot or a little, our inside look at green travel (page 40) and the most eco-conscious travel companies (page 44) will help you GOING PLACES: Kimberly Krol gets a first look at Qatar Airways’ make more informed decisions when new QSuite it comes to future trips. There’s far PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL more to think about in this regard than whether or not to reuse your towels.

We visit a variety of destinations on our eco-friendly world tour this month: Ottawa, Saudi Arabia, Nashville, Quito, Cape Town, Cascais, Antwerp, France, the Thai islands and Las Vegas.

We peruse another global phenomenon next month with a deeper look at the emerging trend of remote business travel. We also break down the new Marriott International, the world’s largest hotel company since its purchase of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. I’m writing this from Berlin, where I attended ITB for the unveiling of Qatar Airways’ new, revolutionary QSuite. It’s the first business-class suite product for the airline, and the design is patented, as it is sure to be a gamechanger for the industry. Next up, I’m off to Spain; I hope you, too, are currently enjoying the journey.

Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor NICOLE QUASTÉ nicole.quaste@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com

ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT PATRICK T. COOPER EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER AKHIL KALEPU ALLIE MOORE TERRY A. SPRUNGER

KRISTY ALPERT RON BERNTHAL DEBRA BOKUR JACK GUY BECCA HENSLEY STEVE JERMANOK ILONA KAUREMSZKY KATIE MCELVEEN RICHARD NEWTON BARBARA ROGERS

ete bios, For compl a.com travelerus al visit glob

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

ints out Katie po ason another re ashville: N ve lo to f, Carrie Roy Acuf and d oo w er Und every t ou ab just ar in country st s between ha at the performed le Opry, Grand O stalwart o di a ra 5.

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ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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GENERAL INQUIRIES/ISSUE REQUESTS tel 267 364 5811 SUBSCRIPTIONS tel 818 286 3134 | gbtcs@magserv.com PUBLIC RELATIONS Kimberly Krol tel 267 364 5811 ext 202 | kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com LETTERS TO THE EDITOR letters@globaltravelerusa.com REPRINTS Charles Calta The YGS Group tel 717 505 9701 ext 2226 charles.calta@theygsgroup.com Global Traveler is published monthly by FXExpress Publications, Inc., 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067. The U.S. subscription rate is $42 for one year, $79.95 for two years, $121.95 for three years.

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letter from the publisher

®

GREEN MACHINE I JUST RETURNED FROM MEXICO, enjoying a seamless itinerary on Aeromexico’s Premier class on a red-eye from New York (JFK) to Mexico City (MEX) and connecting to Cabo San Lucas (SJD). I stayed at Pueblo Bonito Resorts’ Towers at Pacifica and played the Quivira Golf Club (see my review on page 34). My butler, Miguel, provided excellent care during my stay, exchanging dollars, arranging tee times, setting up reservations and even calling to change my flight.

I returned to Mexico City for an overnight at the lovely St. Regis Mexico City JUICED UP: Francis X. Gallagher recharging his own “green and meetings with our good friends at Aeromachine” mexico and Posadas. I promised I’d take an PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER extra day next time to enjoy Mexico City’s world-renowned restaurants, museums and cultural activities.

The night of my departure I drove my Tesla the 70 miles to JFK. I checked the ChargePoint app and saw two vehicle charging locations available in Terminal 5 (on a first-come, first-serve basis). I backed in, plugged in the car and boarded the AirTrain to Terminal 1 where Aeromexico departs.

It took no more than 15 minutes.

I mention all this as we present our first Green Issue. Whether you are an avid recycler or simply like to conserve energy, green issues are a part of our everyday lives. No one likes “green washing,” the practice of making ordinary events appear to be good for the environment, but most of us do not appreciate waste. I realize my Tesla is not God’s answer to environmental problems. The batteries alone, with their chemical and lead components, make more of an impact than do gas guzzlers, but the technology reveals a path to energy independence. While I mostly take this vehicle the short distance to my office, I recently drove it to a meeting with The Ritz-Carlton in Chevy Chase, Md. I stopped at the Tesla Supercharger Station in Laurel, Md., and the car recharged to nearly full in about an hour as I drank coffee and checked email — very impressive.

The travel industry touts fuel efficiency and greenness, but let’s be honest: Flying at 30,000 feet is anything but green. Still, companies make the effort: “Waste not, want not.” Enjoy Global Traveler’s Green Issue and check out the industry’s best players in this arena. And, in keeping with the theme of this issue, we selected a lighter, more environmentally friendly paper stock to reduce the overall shipping weight of each copy mailed and on board flights.

ADVERTISING Publisher/CEO FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER tel 267 364 5811 ext 200 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Vice President RICHARD T. EVANS tel 267 364 5811 ext 203 | dick.evans@globaltravelerusa.com Executive Vice President, Associate Publisher CARLY ALLEN tel 267 495 6287 | carly.allen@globaltravelerusa.com Director of Sales KIMBERLY LAGUEUX tel 267 364 5811 ext. 205 | kimberly.lagueux@globaltravelerusa.com Advertising Director BANU YILMAZ tel 215 301 6869 | banu.yilmaz@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive STEVEN BRIGHT tel 267 364 5811 ext 211 | steven.bright@globaltravelerusa.com Office Manager ANGELIQUE PLATAS tel 267 364 5811 ext 210 | angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Advertising and Editorial Coordinator JENNA PAYESKO tel 267 364 5811 ext 212 | jenna.payesko@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Coordinator/ Account Executive ANDREW RISCH tel 267 364 5811 ext 201 | andrew.risch@globaltravelerusa.com

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contents

April 2017 44

60

52

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

40 Natural Selection Environmental awareness fuels tourism’s big green travel machine.

52 Destination One: Saudi Arabia Saudi Arabia’s new standards for sustainable development take shape.

60 9–5: Quito Quito soars with possibilities for entertaining clients.

48 With green initiatives, Ottawa hosts Earth-friendly events.

52

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APRIL 2017

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April 2017

62 After 5: Cape Town Known for its natural beauty, Cape Town entices at night.

44 Sustainable Travel 58 Stateside: Nashville Eco-wise companies set policies Nashville fun hits a high note in ndbusiness, a e c to protect the world’s precious and sustainn a y Fin liveltourism resources.

China’sability.

reign in oard city. seab Embracing Change

ON THE COVER

ANTWERP p. 66 CAPE TOWN p. 62 CASCAIS p. 64 FRANCE p. 70 NASHVILLE p. 58 QUITO p. 60 SAUDI ARABIA p. 52 THAI ISLANDS p. 72

36

COVER PHOTO: THE GREEN ISSUE ADAPTED FROM PHOTO © ROMAN DOROSHENKO | DREAMSTIME.COM

NOWAK | DREAMSTIME.COM

FEATURES

PHOTOS: © BILL HEDGES, © BRAD JOSEPHS, © ADRIAN SMITH + GORDON GILL ARCHITECTURE, © OLIVER

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contents

April 2017 34

32 26

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

26 28 30 32 34 36 38 76 80

10 13 16 22

64 Neighborhoods: Cascais In Cascais, life revolves around the spectacular Atlantic shore.

Technology Wine & Spirits Spoils Spas Golf Chefs Cruising LGBTQ Health

Mail Call News Reviews One on One Panerai 24 One on One Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport 78 Airport Update 82 Past & Present

66 Friends & Family: Antwerp Amble through walkable Antwerp in search of delectable delights.

70 Bucket List: France Traipse through the French countryside to sniff out treasured black truffles.

72 Kicking Back: Thai Islands Discover hidden gems on an eco-friendly journey of Thailand’s isles.

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Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material.

AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2017 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

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PHOTOS: © QUIVIRA GOLF CLUB © SAMSUNG, © TERRANEA RESORT, © SVETLANA DAY |

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Best Airline in Eastern Europe

Aeroflot Second Consecutive Year

2016

mail call

FEBRUARY Q&A: FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER, PUBLISHER AND CEO

Q&A WITH RICHARD T. EVANS, SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT

In the February 2017 issue, our publisher and CEO, Francis X. Gallagher, talked about travel issues he encountered due to weather and his experience with customer service. He asked: In a weather emergency, where everyone is trying to reboot, what is the best solution?

My most memorable trips have been with groups of friends and centered on an activity. Three of these trips were on horseback, the most memorable of which was a mounted safari in Kenya. You can get close to the animals while on a horse. The most relaxing was a barge trip on the Canal du Midi floating through one of the most interesting parts of France. I wonder, how many of our readers have spent most of their time touring on horseback or through a country on a canal?

The only thing I ever ask for from customer service in these instances is to be understanding. I understand there’s nothing airlines can do about weather, and I expect them to understand I simply want answers, solutions and back-up plans. The one thing that does not work is ignoring people who ask for help, because the only thing more stressful than inconvenienced customers are angry, inconvenienced customers.

LISA COLTON, via email

THE AIRBNB STORY BOOK GIVEAWAY

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

2017 TRAVEL PLANS In the Feb. 1 issue of eFlyer USA, we talked about 2017 travel trends and asked readers about their travel plans for the year and if their plans include any new destinations.

I am a solo traveler and have booked a safari in Tanzania this November, my first big trip solo, and I am excited. I booked it with Oversees Adventure Travel, which does not charge extra for singles!

printed receipt from the machines allows those using Global Entry to jump to the front of the Customs line — or use a speed lane available at certain airports.

Flying back home every six months, I’ve gotten quite used to Global Entry — not sure what I’d do without it!

ROB SKULLY, via email neighborhoods | BERGEN

DORIS HILL, via email

From its beginning with three ordinary guys renting air mattresses to its rise as one of the world’s most popular and innovative accommodation companies, the story of Airbnb is truly unique. Global Traveler is giving away four signed copies of The Airbnb Story by author Leigh Gallagher. Visit globaltravelerusa .com/bookgiveaway to enter for your chance to win a copy.

GLOBAL ENTRY The “Free Global Entry for Cardmembers” News item in the January 2017 issue was an interesting angle on Americans’ re-entry into the United States.

However, it isn’t just the Customs process that’s sped up by the program. Using the automated kiosks, members completely skip the Immigration line. The

On the Waterfront The historical heart of Bergen bustles with activity. BY KATHERINE RODEGHIER

BY THE SEA:

Bergen waterfront (left) and fish market (right) PHOTOS: © TATYANA VYCHEGZHANINA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © JOYFULL | DREAMSTIME.COM

FINLAND NORWEGIAN SEA

SWEDEN

NORWAY BERGEN

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WHILE IT DATES FROM the 12th century and ranks among UNESCO World Heritage sites, Bryggen is no dry historical attraction. This lively Bergen neighborhood of 100-plus shops, galleries, restaurants and museums — and the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel — buzzes all day long.

Bergen, Norway’s second-largest city, was the biggest city in all of Scandinavia during the Middle Ages when this waterfront area served as the epicenter of commerce in the region. A hub of the Hanseatic League, a network of German traders occupied buildings on this wharf (bryggen means “wharf ” in Norwegian) around 1360 and stayed for nearly 400 years.

A fire in 1702 leveled the wharf, which was quickly reconstructed. Most

of the colorful wooden structures of Bryggen today date from that era, some 60 buildings standing four or five deep from a promenade along the waterfront.

They form a welcoming maze of businesses: artists’ workshops and galleries such as Atelier Hetland, specializing in prints and paintings, and Juhls Silver Gallery, crafting jewelry inspired by the Norwegian tundra.

Guided walking tours of the neighborhood start from the Bryggen Museum, constructed over the foundations of its oldest buildings and showcasing artifacts from archaeological excavations, including ceramics from Egypt and glass from China. The Hanseatic Museum and Schøtstuene, in a building dating from 1704, contains original furnishings from the Hanseatic era when 2,000 men worked and lived crowded together in a jumble of warehouses and sleeping quarters. Exhibits illustrate the vast geographic reach of the Hanseatic League that made its fortune in Bergen on salted cod. Ships full of the dried fish set sail for the Catholic countries of Europe to supply meatless meals.

Fish still ranks high among Norway’s exports and finds its way onto plates in restaurants across the country. Bergen’s oldest fish restaurant, Enhjørningen, occupies a building once owned by a Hanseatic merchant in Bryggen. Across the harbor stands the Fish Market, selling not only an amazing selection of seafood but also flowers, fruit and vegetables. Enjoy lunch at a table with a view of Bryggen’s colorful façades reflected in the water.

FEBRUARY 2017

ON THE WATERFRONT We found February’s Global Traveler so interesting as it featured

Bergen, Norway. We were there last summer visiting our granddaughter who lives there and went to that lovely restaurant on the waterfront and stayed at the Radisson Blu Hotel.

I used to go a lot when she was little, taking her back after being in England, so I know it pretty well. Zoe just bought a lovely apartment with her husband behind Bergen center in the hills, and the views are spectacular. It was nice to read all the history.

We love your magazine — thank you.

PAULINE AND DENNIS BANKS, via email

HEART’S DESIRE I can’t thank Global Traveler enough for the great Valentine’s Day gift guide. I ended up actually taking two suggestions! I bought my wife a necklace from Kataoka Jewelry, and we enjoyed a bottle

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler.

We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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M

Globility

THE SOURCE FOR LUxURY BUSINESS TRAVELE

ABU DHABI

of Becker Vineyard Rosé with dinner.

She loved the necklace, and we both really enjoyed the rosé. Thanks again!

JIM KREBEL, Houston, Texas

feature

The way I see it, if the food is good, there’s no problem. I love the idea of mixing things up at restaurants with exciting new food pairings and creative dishes.

Restaurants are one of the first things I look up when I travel anywhere. I don’t want to just grab a quick sandwich on the go, I want to sit down and enjoy something different, something representative of where I am. The local sourcing trend is also great. Customers get fresher food, and local communities are supported.

JUDI SMITS, via email

Every Step You Take Reap the rewards of managing your own business travel.

BY HOLLY RIDDLE

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THE MODERN BUSINESS TRAVELER lives in a world of opportunity. With travel trends growing alongside evolving technologies, anything is possible. However, while brands have made strides to meet even the slightest business travel needs and business trips are more customizable than ever, the root of the matter remains the same. Business travel is all about — and relies on — its human aspect.

After all, 42 percent of corporate travelers head out on the road with the main goal of developing and maintaining client and customer relationships. The statistic comes from the latest white paper from the Association of Corporate Travel Executives, which also points toward a greater trend in business travel of focusing on the needs of the actual traveler rather than just the client, using the resources available to turn a once-stressful form of travel into an enjoyable experience. Planning or overseeing your business travel, then, is not merely about getting in front of the client; it’s about making every step of the

way as productive as possible, either on a business or a personal level.

Perhaps the industry can thank millennials for the inclusion of the traveler within the human aspect of business travel. According to one survey from MMGY Global, millennials took an average 7.7 business trips in the past year and expect to increase business travel by 11 percent in the coming year. Pushing the envelope further, more than half say an increase of 11 percent is not enough. They want even more travel, noting it has a highly desirable, positive impact on their job satisfaction.

Regardless of age, however, managing one’s own business travel comes with a special set of challenges which those working with a corporate travel manager don’t always encounter. From booking hotels and flights to following a corporate budget and reporting costs efficiently, preparing for the actual travel is only half the journey.

Upon reaching the destination, one needs to think about ground transportation, client dinner

FEBRUARY 2017

EVERY STEP YOU TAKE I loved this article. It’s so interesting watching the world of corporate travel change. I’ve been traveling regularly for business for about 10 years now, and only recently has it become more of a priority to really enjoy my destinations. I always look for opportunities to bring my family, and I agree with Ms. Riddle, the freedom of booking your own travel is well worth the challenges and hassles of managing the trip.

JOHN KEELER, via email

DINING DIFFERENTLY In the Feb. 22 issue of eFlyer USA, we talked about how the world of dining is changing.

Food is becoming one of the most important aspects of traveling, and the culinary scene is getting increasingly creative. We asked: Have you personally noticed changes in how you dine? Are there any particular trends in dining you like or dislike?

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | GOA

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes pod of dolphins lapping up the last few hours on to be a clearly focused, intensely I WAS MILES OFF THE coast of India in a of sunshine before the setting sun started to small wooden fishing boat on the Arabian flavored, bright and satisfying cool the water’s surface for the night.

Sea when I first got the feeling we were being wine.

Those happy dolphins annually swim followed.

There is a suggestion of long distances to make it to the peaceful Manned by a shirtless captain and a crew sweet mint and an evocation shores of Goa, but they’re of two local fishermen of orange and peach in Finca not the only ones to discover Goa is the beach from Goa, our boat La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, the magic of this remarkable was stocked only with destination of choice destination. followed by a relatively full body Each year nearly tiny hooks wound and excellent balance. Altogether a for many affluent 53,000 visitors make the trip around wooden planks Unwind with a little by thinly weighted line to Goa to soak in the sun, pleasing, inviting wine. travelers looking to sand and sumptuous lifestyle Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) (the traditional “fishing coastal calm in Goa. unwind and let loose this pint-sized Indian state is clean, crisp and refreshing, offering a rod” in Goa) and two provides.

BY KRISTY ALPERT typical Torrontés floral flavor with pearcoolers — one filled while in India.

Goa is the beach destinawith fresh catches of and peach overtones and a gentle reminder tion of choice for many affluthe day and the other of citrus fruits in the mouth. A particularly ent travelers looking to unwind and let loose empty, having been slowly depleted of iceharmonious wine. while in India. The state sits about midway cold Kingfisher beers as the day went on.

The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) Apparently I wasn’t the only one who down India’s southwestern coastline between combines keen fruit flavors, herbal notes Maharashtra to the north and Karnataka sensed the followers, and as the captain and a fresh lemony acidity with a traceslowed of the boat’s low-powered engine to a to the east and south; and although it is the smallest state in the country, it is one of the honey and floral tones. halt, our small crew froze and grew silent as richest states in India. theripe boat was soon surrounded by a playful Following its aroma of fresh flowers and fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with citric notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

74 globaltravelerusa.com JANUARY 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

State of Bliss

www.globaltravelerusa.com

DAY’S END:

Fishing boats on a Goa beach at sunset PHOTO: © MARINA PISSAROVA | DREAMSTIME.COM

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TOP U.S. HOTELS In the Feb. 8 issue of eFlyer USA we covered the results of a survey by U.S. News & World Report announcing the top hotels in the United States for 2017.

We asked: Have you stayed at one of these highly ranked hotels? What do you look for in a great hotel? Are you willing to pay more for quality services and amenities?

I’ve stayed at The Langham, Chicago and absolutely loved it. I think this is a well-deserved ranking. It’s a businessfriendly hotel but it also offers great views, and the hotel itself is beautiful. My husband and I loved the Mediterranean restaurant, Travelle. We strongly recommend a stay there!

CAROL SONG, via email For me, a great hotel is one that really goes out of its way to accommodate guests personally. If I’m traveling for business, and I make that known, I love having a spacious desk and plenty of coffee — and little touches like notepads and pens are always welcomed. I know it’s cliché at this point, but good WiFi is also essential. If I can’t get work done in the hotel, it’s not a hotel I’d return to.

ED MALLON, via email

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WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS? Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from choosing the right headphones for travel to cruising to Turks & Caicos.

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PARTICIPATE IN VOTING Visit our website to vote for your favorites in the 2017 GT Tested Reader Survey.

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BID IN OUR CHARITY AUCTION Through May 1, bid on a number of wonderful travel items in our online auction to benefit The Leukemia & Lymphoma Society.

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ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE AND ICE

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news

Sail Lisbon to South Africa with Regent Seven Seas

HIGH-TECH SECURITY SPEEDS SCANNING PROCESS

PHOTOS: © TREKANDSHOOT | DREAMSTIME.COM, © REGENT, © DAR AL-HANDASAH

The ever-increasing headaches associated with airport security lines could possibly be rectified with a new technology that doesn’t require travelers to unpack their luggage, remove their shoes and spend precious time waiting to be scanned like a human barcode.

Northeastern University scientists are investigating ways to make the security scanning process so seamless travelers may not even realize they are being scanned. The Awareness and Localization of Explosives-Related Threats Center at the university, funded by the Department of Homeland Security, identifies large-scale security methods such as video-identifying software that can recognize suspicious activity or a large archway under which travelers walk and wheel their luggage that scans the person and bag in real time. Researchers expect this type of technology to increase the number of hourly scans from 100 to 300.

Although these exact methods of security scanning may not be implemented in national airports for some time, ALERT hopes to introduce some aspects of these technologies by 2020. northeastern.edu/alert

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In 2018 Regent’s Seven Seas Explorer cruise ship will launch a journey to take 750 passengers from Portugal and sail down the western coast of Africa, with a final stop in South Africa.

One of the world’s most luxurious cruise lines will depart from the capital city of Lisbon and spend the next 24 days caressing Africa’s Atlantic coast with stops in Senegal, Togo and Ghana. After ending the route in Cape Town, South Africa, guests have the option to continue to cruise east to visit Namibia and Mozambique, an additional 15-day journey.

With a price tag of slightly more than $15,000, this particular Regent Seven Seas itinerary is one of the first of its kind, as African cruises are still somewhat of an anomaly. rssc.com

Saudi Arabia Builds World’s Largest Hotel

Twelve towers, 10,000 rooms and a price tag of nearly $3.5 billion are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to Saudi Arabia’s new hotel, set to become the world’s largest.

Located in the holy city of Mecca, the Abraj Kudai hotel is scheduled to open later this year and serve as a luxury accommodation option for the millions of Muslims who make the pilgrimage to the city each year.

Designated prayer halls will be available for Hajj visitors.

Within the massive complex, guests will find a shopping mall, 70 restaurants, ballrooms and a convention center. Ten of the 12 towers (some of which are topped with helipads) will feature 4-star accommodations, and the two remaining 5-star towers will be reserved for the hotel’s most esteemed clientele. dar.dargroup.com/work/project/abraj-kudai

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news Japan Airlines’ New Tokyo–New York Route

Beginning this month, Japan Airlines will launch non-stop daily flights between Tokyo and New York in an effort to provide more convenient flight options for travelers who frequent this particular route.

Japan Airlines’ established route flies between New York’s John F. Kennedy International Airport and Tokyo’s Narita International Airport, but this new daily route will incorporate Tokyo’s Haneda Airport, closer to

the city center.

The Narita–New York route will also see a change in terms of passenger capacity. The Boeing 777-300ER with 244 seats will replace the previously used Boeing 787 Dreamliner with 161 seats.

Japan Airlines plans to increase the availability of its Tokyo (NRT)–Moscow (DME) and Tokyo (NRT)–Honolulu (HNL) routes as well in response to growing demand. jal.com

Bvlgari Shanghai Hotel to Open

bulgarihotels.com

American Airlines Removes Seat-Back Entertainment

American Airlines is rolling out a new line of Boeing 737 airplanes with improved comfort and features, but one feature will be missing from these domestic vessels: the seat-back video screens that previously played movies and television shows

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during flights.

With the high number of passengers bringing their own devices such as tablets, laptops and smartphones on board, American does not consider the removal of this service a hindrance to its guests.

For those few who find this an inconvenience, American will still offer an array of in-flight entertainment options (movies, shows, games), accessible when personal electronic devices are connected to the cabin’s WiFi service, an improvement made possible by avoiding the cost of installing seat-back screens. aa.com

New Destinations for Frontier Airlines

Discount Frontier Airlines is launching new routes to expand its service. Airports in Cleveland (CLE), Cincinnati (CVG) and Austin (AUS) will serve as the departure hubs for these new routes, available a few times per week.

All three airports will offer new routes to San Diego (SAN), a new destination for the airline. Other new routes include Cleveland to Houston (IAH), Cincinnati to New York LaGuardia Airport, Austin to Washington Dulles International Airport and Austin to Chicago O’Hare. flyfrontier.com

Proposed $10 Billion JFK Makeover

New York’s John F. Kennedy International Airport is typically considered the not-so-ugly stepsister when compared with LaGuardia Airport, a difficult-toaccess eyesore in Queens. But in the eyes of New York Governor Andrew Cuomo, even JFK could use a makeover. In January the governor proposed a $10 billion project to revamp the interna-

tional hub and improve the state of its terminals and infrastructure.

Further details of the stillto-be-approved plan include increasing the number of lanes on the road that leads to the airport, improving transportation among terminals and improving various security measures that currently exist in the airport. Additional accessibility initiatives include an AirTrain to connect travelers with New York’s subway system.

PHOTOS: © BLVGARI SHANGHAI HOTEL, © PHFW22 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © IGOR DOLGOV | DREAMSTIME.COM

After the success of the Bvlgari Hotel in Bali, the hotel chain will open a new property this year in a luxury high-rise building in Shanghai.

At the top of an existing 40-story skyscraper, the Bvlgari Shanghai will occupy eight stories of 82 rooms and suites with incomparable views of the Chinese metropolis. Guests can dine on Italian delicacies at the rooftop restaurant and cocktail bar.

The hotel will tower over the Suhe Creek art district known as the Gold Strand of Shanghai. Not only will Bvlgari put down roots in Shanghai this year, but the luxury hotel brand will also open a new property in the Chinese capital of Beijing.

deals & rewards

Hilton Partners with Amazon.com

Hilton Hotels & Resorts rolls out a handful of new benefits for members of its Hilton Honors program (formerly Hilton HHonors). Among these benefits is a massive partnership with Amazon.com that will allow Hilton Honors members to make purchases on the website using their membership points.

A second benefit will allow members to pool their points with friends or family members and redeem them for group vacations. There is no fee to transfer points among members, and the members do not need to reside at the same address.

There is, however, an annual transfer limit of 500,000 points. Members may also enjoy increased point redemption flexibility by choosing how many points they wish to redeem for a hotel stay and how much they want to pay using cash.

More than half of guests who book rooms in Hilton properties are rewards members, for a total membership of 60 million travelers.

PHOTOS: © AMAZON, © REDWOOD8 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © TURBOTAX, © H&R BLOCK, © TAXACT

hilton.com amazon.com

Earn Elite Status with American Airlines

Earn Miles for Filing Taxes The April 15 tax deadline is nigh, but there is still time to file taxes and simultaneously earn air miles toward travel. Travelers who use H&R Block at Home,

TurboTax, E-File, TaxAct or FreeTaxUSA to file their annual taxes can earn points and miles per dollar spent.

For example, JetBlue travelers can earn 3 to 13 points per dollar spent. Southwest Rapid Rewards members can earn 1,000 bonus Rapid Rewards points when they use TurboTax or six points per dollar with H&R Block at Home.

When filing taxes on one of these sites, enter your miles program when prompted to take advantage of these free points.

After the rollout of new pointsearning policies by American Airlines last year, current and prospective elite members must review what they need to do to accumulate miles and either attain or maintain elite status in 2017.

American added one tier of elite status to its previous triad.

Gold, Platinum and Executive Platinum will be joined by Platinum Pro, benefiting members with domestic upgrades, nine miles per dollar instead of the standard five and two free checked bags.

Not only do travelers need to acquire a specific number of miles to gain elite status (a minimum of 25,000), but also they need to spend a certain number of Elite Qualifying Dollars, varying between $3,000 and $12,000. When traveling with partner airlines, however, members must use American’s web-provided chart featuring calculations based on data including the class of the ticket and the number of miles flown; each partner airline has a different calculator. aa.com

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THE RITZ-CARLTON, NAPLES Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher

coffeemaker. A hallway led from the main room to the front door; it was long enough for a double-door closet with mirrored front and a little table with a lamp. The bathroom was also off of this hallway, which complemented with dark hardwood flooring. The bathroom featured a marble-topped vanity and a marble bathtub surround. There was not a separate shower, and the tub had a shower curtain instead of a glass enclosure.

Asprey bath products added to the amenities of the bathroom along with a little glass jar with cotton balls and swabs.

Guest Quarters: Our room, 824, offered a view of the Gulf of Mexico and the pool complex between the hotel and the water. We were pleased to find two lovely framed pictures — one of our two Dalmatians (Elle and Beau) and one of ourselves — taken from our Facebook postings; a bottle of wine; and a large dog biscuit, which we took home for our pups. It really added a nice, homey touch to our stay.

Our room included a king-sized bed with an overstuffed chair in the far corner near the double French doors leading to the balcony. To the right of the doors stood a desk, and opposite the bed a credenza held a flat-screen TV, the minibar and a

Services/Amenities: The property offers many amenities, including three miles of beach, beach chairs and umbrellas, two heated outdoor pools, a Ritz-Carlton Spa featuring more than 30 treatment rooms, a fitness center, tennis courts and some nice gift shops in the lobby. The many restaurant options include Gumbo Limbo, a super-friendly, Gulf-side restaurant with outdoor seating to enjoy the view between beach breaks. We enjoyed a lovely fish dinner at Terrazza, the hotel’s Italian restaurant, where we both chose the bronzino, perfectly cooked. Unfortunately, I did not have time for a round of golf, but guests have access to Tiburón Golf Club, a Greg Norman-designed course.

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TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ I had a nice walk on the beach even though it was a red flag day and windy. ◆ Gumbo Limbo serves great conch chowder. ◆ The property closed in 2013 for three months for a renovation of all the guestrooms.

The Ritz-Carlton, Naples 280 Vanderbilt Beach Road Naples, FL 34108 tel 239 598 3300 ritzcarlton.com

PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Arrival/Check-In: The entrance to the 450-room property is beautiful and grand, and the valet parking attendants were spot-on, taking our car and luggage immediately. We arrived a little early, as I had a meeting to attend nearby.

Upon arrival I learned the meeting had canceled, so we had time to relax and have lunch until our room was ready. After our meal we headed to our room, and shortly thereafter our luggage arrived along with some amenities from the property — a nice start to our stay at The Ritz-Carlton, Naples.

GT tested

ROYAL AIR MAROC | BUSINESS CLASS

Washington, D.C. (IAD) to Doha (DOH) via Casablanca (CMN)

Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

PHOTO: © ROYAL AIR MAROC

On the Ground: I was traveling to Doha, Dubai and Abu Dhabi with my colleague Banu Yilmaz. After picking up Banu, based in New York, at the train station, we headed from Yardley, Pa., to Washington Dulles International Airport. As the Royal Air Maroc flight to Casablanca departs quite late from IAD, we didn’t encounter too much traffic on our drive. Parking and check-in couldn’t have been easier.

With priority security access, we were through and on our way to the lounge in no time.

Once at CMN, we cleared immigration, which took a bit longer, then headed to the lounge for a brief visit before our connection departed to Doha.

Pre-Flight: At IAD, Royal Air Maroc business-class passengers can access the Etihad lounge. We caught up on emails while enjoying the lounge’s table service, snacking a bit from both the buffet and the menu. I was so comfortable, I started dozing off waiting for the departure of our flight at close to midnight.

The sizable lounge in Casablanca was busy when we arrived. Although our stay was brief, it provided a welcome

respite to freshen up, have some coffee and check emails between our two seven-hour flights.

In-Flight: Royal Air Maroc’s business class offers all the modern comforts coupled with the conveniences of the Boeing 787 Dreamliner — larger overhead luggage space, noise reduction, larger windows.

On both flights the lie-flat seats offered 61 inches of space, adjustable head rests, partitions with adjoining seats and additional storage space. They were perfect for sleeping, which was my plan of attack on the IAD–CMN flight. From Casablanca to Doha I caught up on movies on the LCD seatback video screens. I did notice the movie offerings were a bit different on the two legs.

Moroccan and international options are offered on the à la carte menus, along with a full selection of Champagne, wine and liquor. Flight attendants greeted passengers with welcome beverages, in-flight reading material and amenity kits.

Boarding, security and immigration processing were made easier with priority access.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Royal Air Maroc launched the non-stop service from Washington Dulles International Airport to Casablanca in September 2016.

The airline’s brand-new Boeing 787 Dreamliners service the route. ◆ Washington, D.C., is the second U.S. city served by Royal Air Maroc, after 40 years of service to New York (JFK). ◆ On my return flight, I had a 12-hour layover in Casablanca, which afforded me the opportunity to both explore the city and spend time in the premium lounge at the airport.

Royal Air Maroc royalairmaroc.com

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THE LONDON WEST HOLLYWOOD Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

Guest Quarters: My room’s interesting yet very spacious layout struck me immediately upon entering. I’m so accustomed to my guestroom opening into a hallway with the bathroom immediately to one side, it was a surprise when my London Suite opened onto the back of the bed. However different, the room configuration made great use of the space and an open floorplan.

The back of the king-sized bed also served as additional storage and luggage space in addition to a closet, which shared the wall with the entrance. Between the closet and door was the generous bathroom, boasting both a shower and tub, two sinks and a water closet. I’ve been in entire guestrooms the size of the bathroom.

Continuing into the room, two nightstands, each offering additional built-in storage and convenient outlets, flanked the

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TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ During my stay, on the heels of the hotel’s recent $27 million renovation, I had the chance to check out the impressive, 11,000-square-foot Penthouse Inspired by Vivienne Westwood.

comfortable bed. In front of the bed sat an L-shaped couch, dividing the area into a separate sitting room. The flat-screen TV could be seen from each angle. A table and chairs offered even more space to spread out.

Tucked in the corner was a wet bar area with a sink, Keurig coffeemaker, mini refrigerator and other minibar amenities. A patio with views of the Hollywood Hills completed the experience.

Services/Amenities: In addition to ample meeting and event space, The London West Hollywood offers signature Breakfast Table dining complimentary for all guests at Boxwood Café, which also serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Themed nights at the eatery include London Nights at Boxwood, #RoseAllDay and Duo at Boxwood on Saturday nights. The London Bar serves a curated list of international wines. My visit coincided with the seasonal launch of Boxwood on the Roof, where I enjoyed predinner cocktails and a sumptuous meal on the roof while drinking in the views of Los Angeles.

The roof also features a pool, sundeck and private cabanas with all-day dining and cocktail services. Other amenities include complimentary WiFi, complimentary calls to London, a state-ofthe-art fitness facility, Alex Roldan Salon (with in-suite services available) and the Alex Roldan Boutique.

◆ An on-site, fully equipped Screening Room offers 110 seats, Dolby surround sound and 3D capabilities. ◆ For this Beverly Hills, 90210 fan, it was exciting to learn The London West Hollywood was the former Wyndham Bel Age Hotel, one of the most prominent locations in the 1990s television show and an iconic area hot spot. Following a huge renovation in 2007, it reopened as The London.

The London West Hollywood 1020 N. San Vicente Blvd.

West Hollywood, CA 90069 tel 310 854 1111 thelondonwesthollywood.com

PHOTOS: © THE LONDON WEST HOLLYWOOD

Arrival/Check-In: Los Angeles was my last stop on a week-long business trip that included meetings in Miami and Dallas. I arrived at Los Angeles International Airport late at night and, after an easy cab ride, was so happy to arrive at The London West Hollywood. Tucked away in the busy West Hollywood area, pulling into the 5-star property feels more like arriving at a private home.

I took in the gorgeous lobby while one person checked in before me. Despite the brief wait, as only one attendant was manning the desk given the hour, the entire process was quick, and I was en route to my room in just a few minutes. I was ready to sink into bed almost immediately but noticed a small leak in my room upon entering. Happily, the issue was addressed and serviced quickly, without too much disruption to my nighttime routine. I drifted to sleep with plans to take full advantage of the accommodations the next day.

GT tested

OMNI DALLAS HOTEL Reviewed by Carly Allen

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

PHOTOS: © OMNI DALLAS HOTEL, © CARLY ALLEN

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived in Dallas at 6:30 p.m. Traffic was heavy with commuters; however, I traveled the miles from Dallas Love Field airport to the Omni Dallas via Uber in just under 20 minutes.

The Omni Dallas is attached to the Dallas Convention Center, and with a convention going on I expected chaos. I was delightfully surprised how calming my entrance was. The Omni’s lobby features soaring ceilings, lots of seating areas and cool tones of marble, offering lots of natural light and room to move around. The front desk staff was friendly, and I was off to my room in just a few minutes.

Guest Quarters: The Executive Suite was impressively modern yet comfortable. At the entrance, a brightly lit hallway with a bar and espresso machine to the right led into the living room. There, a full couch to the right faced a built-in entertainment center with a flat-screen LCD HDTV and shelves filled with art, books and pottery. A dining table sat by the floor-to-ceiling windows where I ended up doing work on my laptop, as there was no desk.

The bedroom boasted a comfortable king-sized bed and interesting framed prints by local artists on the walls. The nightstands had plenty of built-in outlets for my smartphones and iPad, and the hotel’s iPad accessed the TV, lighting and other features. A lounge chair and chaise by the floor-to-ceiling windows gave a view of the Santiago Calatrava-designed bridges over the Trinity River. I enjoyed the modern yet simple bathroom with great lighting and a hidden television built into the large mirror over the single sink. The bathroom featured a stand-alone shower, vanity and walk-in closet.

Services/Amenities: This property offers state-of-the-art facili-

◆ Although the Omni Dallas is a convention hotel, the helpful and friendly staff provide a boutique-like and thoughtful service. ◆ The seasonal menu at Texas Spice is a delightful treat; its locally sourced ingredients support Dallasarea farmers and ranchers.

ties in every way. The gym has enough cardio machines so guests never have to wait, despite a bustling business of convention guests.

The floor-to-ceiling windows offer views of downtown. Guests can choose from six dining options on property, with even more just across the road. I tried Texas Spice with its mix of farm-to-table and Southern cuisine; the shrimp and grits were amazing. The Owner’s Box is a sport bar, but its classy, modern seating areas and authentic menus make it so much more. It offers a comfortable experience for a female traveler to enjoy on her own.

Due to Omni’s convention center business, the property has an on-site UPS center which I used three times in my 24-hour stay.

The property also has an outdoor pool and a full spa, which I hope to try on a return trip.

◆ The property is centrally located just blocks from downtown, shopping and museums. ◆ A night out at the Owner’s Box is a must on my return trip.

Omni Dallas Hotel 555 S. Lamar St. Dallas, Texas 75202 tel 214 744 6664 omnihotels.com

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MONT GABRIEL RESORT & SPA Reviewed by Katie Skrzek

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

Guest Quarters: The newly renovated property offers guests the choice of accommodations in the hotel’s recent addition or original 1936 logwood wall section. My room was in the newer portion of the property. It felt more modern than rustic and boasted a king-sized bed, mini refrigerator, desk, armchair with ottoman and other standard guestroom amenities. I had a spectacular view of the nearby ski slopes and lush forest from my private balcony. Though the rooms are smoke-free, I did notice a faint smoke odor on my balcony, perhaps from one of my neighbors. My busy itinerary allowed me only a brief time in my room before I departed for my evening event. This left me with just enough time to settle into the accommodations and send a few emails. I always appreciate complimentary WiFi.

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Services/Amenities: Unfortunately, my stay was short, and I was not able to experience all of the many amenities and activities. The resort offers a variety of family-friendly activities including heated indoor and outdoor pools, six tennis courts, sledding, skiing, ski lessons and an 18-hole golf course. While I didn’t have time to golf, I did take a brief tour of the picturesque mountain course. I did not have the time to indulge in the on-site spa during my stay, though I perused the spa treatment menu, and it looked divine. In addition to the leisure activities, the property hosts corporate events. In total, it offers 9,243 square feet of event space within 11 different rooms to accommodate any size event.

The property offers two dining options: L’Ambroisie and St-Moritz. I dined at L’Ambroisie for breakfast on the morning of my departure. The restaurant décor boasts a ski lodge vibe with wood accents and warm colors. I sampled from the breakfast buffet, including a made-to-order omelet from the omelet station. Alongside the hearty breakfast classics, the dining experience felt Canadian — maple syrup included. Room service is also available.

The property, conveniently located between Montréal and Mont Tremblant, offers the ideal midway point for business and leisure travelers alike.

◆ Regardless of the season, wander around the resort’s grounds, including a stroll through the 1936 portion of the hotel. ◆ Spend time exploring the quaint shops and restaurants of the nearby town of Sainte-Adèle.

Mont Gabriel Resort & Spa 1699 Chemin Mont Gabriel Sainte-Adèle Québec J8B 1A5 Canada tel 450 229 3547 montgabriel.com

PHOTOS: © HOTEL MONT GABRIEL, © KATIE SKRZEK

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived at the Hotel Mont Gabriel in the afternoon for a one-night stay. The road up to the hotel is quite steep and winding, so we initially missed the turn and needed to backtrack. Despite its tucked-away location within the Laurentian Mountains, the property feels welcoming. The lobby is rustic yet luxurious, and I waited just a few moments to check in. The friendly front desk attendant directed me toward the elevator to my room on the second floor.

◆ Book your stay during the winter for world-class skiing and outdoor activities, including a ski-in, ski-out option.

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Dubai, known for its lavish building projects, plans to build the world’s largest airport. With a projected size of 25 square miles, the airport will be able to service 220 million passengers a year upon completion. #globility #travel

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one on one

ANGELA FOSTER-RICE Managing Director, Environmental Affairs & Sustainability, United Airlines

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whether it’s ballet, jazz or hip-hop, we have a blast.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Growing use of sustainable aviation biofuels that can significantly reduce carbon emissions from flying What is the best career advice you’ve received?

A quote by Anaïs Nin — “Life shrinks or expands in proportion to one’s courage.” So be confident and dive in!

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field?

Learning to collaborate is essential. “If you want to go fast, go alone; if you want to go further, go together.”

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory

APRIL 2017

or story: One of my most memorable business trips was a meeting among environmental leaders of international airlines that occurred in Kruger National Park. The discussions were intense and productive, which I attribute to being in the midst of a fantastic wildlife preserve that drove home the importance of protecting the environment.

One travel tip you cannot live without: Load up the travel apps! I use many apps that continue to innovate, including the United Airlines app (of course!), Uber, Google Translate and other tripplanning apps.

Best advice for business travelers: While I love my apps, don’t get lost in your phone — always be aware of your surroundings.

What are the latest advances in alternate fuel initiatives? Since 2009 sustainable aviation biofuels have gone from test flights to incorporation into everyday operations. I am proud to say United is an industry leader in sustainable aviation biofuels; we are the first U.S. carrier to integrate biofuels in our ongoing everyday operations at our Los Angeles hub.

Our agreement with AltAir Fuels is to purchase up to 15 million gallons of sustainable aviation fuel over three years. In addition, United recently invested $30 million in Fulcrum Bioenergy, a company that takes municipal solid waste (household garbage) and converts it to biofuels. United has the potential to co-develop up to five biorefineries with Fulcrum and purchase 90 million gallons/year for 10 years.

The environmental benefits of sustainable aviation biofuels are significant. Waste materials as feedstocks can also protect natural resources and turn waste into help with fuel diversification to protect against price volatility and protect energy security while contributing to a clean energy economy.

What are some of the biggest challenges in implementing green practices? One of the biggest challenges is keeping the momentum going to grow sustainability practices. It’s important to recognize progress isn’t always a straight line at the same pace; it requires keeping your finger on the pulse of the broader company objectives and cost pain points in order to successfully move forward. I seek to foster the company sustainability vision and goals and recognize it’s not just how fast we go but how far we go.

PHOTO: © UNITED AIRLINES

Name: Angela FosterRice Title: Managing director, Environmental Affairs & Sustainability Company, city: United Airlines; Chicago, Ill. Number of employees: 82,000 Recent project: I had the honor to be part of an international airline delegation that engaged with governments to reach an agreement among 190 countries to regulate greenhouse gases from international aviation. The UN’s International Civil Aviation Organization reached the agreement in October 2016.

First job: Working in my dad’s pizza parlor washing dishes at age 12 Little-known fact about you: I enjoy choreographing dance performances with my kids;

ABOUT YOUR BRAND Tell our readers more about Eco-Skies at United Airlines. EcoSkies is United’s commitment to the environment and to operating an environmentally sustainable and responsible airline.

We categorize our environmental work under four pillars: fuel efficiency and emissions reduction, sustainable fuel sources, sustainable products and waste management, and stakeholder and customer engagement. United had tremendous success in increasing fuel efficiency through fleet changes or modifications and various operational measures, which improved our fuel efficiency more than 40 percent since 1991.

There will continue to be incredible advancements in fuel efficiency for aviation, but to take aviation to the next level in reduction in carbon intensity, we believe sustainable aviation biofuel has tremendous promise.

Eco-Skies is also about looking closely at the journey of our customer and how we can provide an excellent product with a lower environmental footprint. One of our most recent programs has been recycling our unused first- and business-class amenity kits with the organization Clean the World for use in homeless and women’s shelters. Beyond that, we’re continuing to green our supply chain, from introducing sustainably sourced illy coffee to electrifying more of our ground service equipment that moves baggage and people around the airports.

Š 2017 United Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved. According to Air Transport World.

SM

2017 Eco-Airline of the Year

one on one

LIZA MILAGRO Sustainability Manager, Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport

and society inspired my passion for tailored suits, adventure and the journey.

One travel tip you cannot live without: A Mophie battery pack and something to read that lets me turn pages rather than swipe Best advice for business travelers: ATL has the best shoeshine stands of any airport, so pack an extra pair and get them shined.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND What is Green Acres ATL Energy Park? ATL’s Green Acres full-stream recycling facility will process 22,000 tons of materials generated by passengers annually; 15,000 tons generated from cargo; and 20,000 tons of wood chips from City of Atlanta residential yard waste. Our waste audit in 2013 identified 89 percent of the stream could be diverted from landfills. Because there are no composting facilities near Atlanta, diverting 28 percent of organic commodities is difficult for our concessionaires and local restaurants as well. This facility organizes the stream so materials will achieve the highest and best use. Green Acres will share information with everyone from students to executives who wants to emulate our innovative approach to reaching zero waste.

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YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/ initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? ATL will facilitate the creation of an aerotropolis, and today’s innovations will become the norm: bio-jet fuel; piezoelectric floor tiles (generating power through people’s footsteps); waste/ recycling facilities at airports; multipurpose, net zero, living buildings; packaging that processes faster in landfills.

What is the best career advice you’ve received?

My aunt, Dr. Hortense Simmons, told me, “Be obsessed or be average.”

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What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Sustainability is sexy, so have fun with innovation. Take an integrated approach to enrolling others in the vision of what can be done together. Don’t forget socio-economic impact. Metrics are mandatory for telling your sustainability story.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: I traveled without a parent, beginning at age 5 or 6, to visit family in Miami and the Bahamas. I got to speak with pilots in the cockpit and glamorous airline hostesses.

This unique era in aviation

Tell our readers about ATL’s other green initiatives.

Our Sustainable Management Plan aims for 20 percent reduction in emissions, water and energy consumption, and 90 percent landfill diversion by 2020. Our GreeningATL campaign creates passenger and employee engagement.

ATL is also converting to LED lights, incorporating green infrastructure to allow the first inch of rainfall to permeate the ground, expanding our food recovery program as an endorser of the EPA’s Food Recovery Challenge, adding electric buses and CNG shuttles, and installing white roofs.

In 2016 ATL became the first U.S. airport to achieve ISO 50001 certification.

What can travelers expect from ATL in 2017?

ATLNext, projected to cost $6 billion, comprises a series of projects over the next 20 years to boost capacity, renew and replace existing facilities and enhance ATL’s aesthetic appeal. These projects will help secure Hartsfield-Jackson’s position as the world’s busiest and most efficient airport and bolster the goal to provide the best possible customer service while meeting passengers’ changing needs.

PHOTO: © AL NOTTAGE

Name: Liza Milagro Title: Sustainability manager Company, city: HartsfieldJackson Atlanta International Airport; Atlanta, Ga. Number of employees: 63,000 Recent project: Green Acres ATL Energy Park & Entrepreneurial Center First job: Sales rep/assistant buyer for my family’s Just Sox store Little-known fact about you: I am a vermiculturist; our worm colonies eat our vegetative food scraps, paper towels and shredded paper.

technology

PERSONAL TOUCH Exciting high-tech tools make everyday tasks a breeze.

BY AKHIL KALEPU

DYSON SUPERSONIC Dyson made something as mundane as vacuuming look like something out of Blade Runner. It was only a matter of time before the engineers brought their impressive technology to personal care, unveiling the most high-tech blow dryer you’ve ever seen. A 13-blade, brushless motor spins at 110,000 revolutions per minute (compared to the usual 20,000) with buttons on the back to control temperature and air flow. The technology, much more durable than a traditional hair dryer, allows for a more compact design by hiding the motor in the handle. $399.99. dyson.com

SAMSUNG GEAR 360

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IROBOT ROOMBA 980 Vacuum robots have been around for a while, but they’re not always all they’re cracked up to be. The main complaints include the inability to map the floor and a lack of suction.

The Roomba 880 introduced two AeroForce extractors, making it possible to clean a carpet without a brush, but the 980 improves upon the previous model by implementing visual simultaneous localization and mapping technology. This includes a camera and room sensor for the 980 to see obstacles and create a map of the room to ensure the entire space gets cleaned. $899.99. irobot.com

NIKE HYPERADAPT 1.0

Ever since Back to the Future Part II, you’ve been waiting for Nike to develop a pair of self-lacing sneakers. The company released a limited-edition run of the Nike Mags worn by Michael J. Fox (raising $6.75 million for his foundation for Parkinson’s research), and the technology is now officially available in Nike’s HyperAdapt 1.0, utilizing what it calls electro adaptive reactive lacing, which means the shoe detects the contours of your foot and tightens accordingly. $720. nike.com

PHOTOS: © DYSON, © SAMSUNG, © IROBOT, © NIKE

Virtual reality is becoming a popular format for entertainers, giving the viewer a new way of experiencing their favorite places and events.

However, Samsung doesn’t want you to just watch the content, it wants you to make it, specifically with the Samsung Gear 360. This small, dual-camera device makes it easy to capture full, immersive, 360-degree video. Operation is simple, allowing you to switch between video, time-lapse, loop and photo. The bundled video editing software made specifically for Gear 360 allows you to cut various shots together in addition to converting the video into a traditional rectangle for sharing on social media. $349.99. samsung.com

wine & spirits

YO HO HO! THE SPANIARDS INTRODUCED sugar cane to the Caribbean centuries ago, and today, while rum is produced nearly everywhere sugar cane grows, the Caribbean makes the most rum and the most varieties.

The product of the fermented juice of sugar cane or sugar cane molasses, rum comes in a seemingly endless variety (more than 400 different bottlings are available in New York City, for example). In fact, virtually all rums can be classified into four major types: light, gold, dark and spiced.

Light (also called silver or white) rums are lightbodied and softly flavored with a mild taste of molasses and are most often used in cocktails. Examples include Atlantico Platino from the Dominican Republic ($20); Barbancourt White Rhum, Haiti ($20); Don Q Cristal Rum, Puerto Rico ($18); Rhum JM White Rum, Martinique ($38); and Tommy Bahama White Sand Rum, Barbados ($24).

Gold (or amber) rums are medium-bodied and have usually been aged a bit. They get their color from their time in oak barrels and generally have more flavor than light rums. Gold rums include Atlantico Reserve, Dominican Republic ($25); Bacardi Gold Rum, Puerto Rico ($13); Cruzan Single Barrel Rum, St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands ($25); Don Q Gold Rum, Puerto Rico ($14); and Gosling’s Gold Bermuda Rum, Bermuda ($21).

Dark (or black) rums are richer, fuller bodied, more pungent and, as the name connotes, darker. They have stronger flavors, often with hints of molasses and spices.

Try Angostura 7-year-old Dark Rum, Trinidad and Tobago ($32); Appleton Estate Extra Rum, Jamaica ($37); Bacardi Select Rum, Puerto Rico ($15); Myers’s Original Dark Rum, Jamaica ($21); and Stolen Dark Rum, Trinidad and Tobago ($18).

As the name implies, spiced rums have added spices and, occasionally, caramel as well. While they are generally based on gold rums, these additions usually darken them in color. Choices include Captain Morgan Black Spiced Rum, Puerto Rico ($23); Clarke’s Court Spicy Rum, Grenada ($17); Montecristo Spiced Rum, Guatemala ($25); Oakheart Genuine Spiced Rum, Bermuda ($15); Rhum Barbancourt Pango, Haiti ($18); and Vizcaya VXOP Cask 21, Dominican Republic ($20).

Prices vary widely throughout the United States.

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im on cla m m o Ac e he nam t t a h is t omes ‘rum’ c on mbulli u r m fro r us) o (rump stion rumbu ar). (upro

PHOTOS: © OAKHEART SPICED RUM, © ELENA MOISEEVA | DREAMSTIME.COM

Explore a nearly endless variety of Caribbean rums. BY EUNICE FRIED

flysaa.com

SOUTH AFRICA’S MOST FREQUENT FLYER Fly South African Airways to stunning Cape Town which has been consistently named as one of the best places in the world to visit. With convenient connections from over 100 North American cities, SAA offers daily flights to Cape Town from New York JFK and Washington Dulles. Your flight to the Mother City begins with a warm African welcome and continues with a level of service that has earned SAA the continent’s Best Airline award from Skytrax for 14 consecutive years.

www.flysaa.com • 1-800-722-9675 or your professional travel consultant

spoils

SINGIN’ IN THE RAIN Prepare to navigate spring showers in any climate. BY PATRICK T. COOPER AND TERRY SPRUNGER

REISS Grabbing your trench coat is a necessary evil to combat the elements.

Do the rain and the world a favor by broadcasting your best interpretation of military-influenced style. This season Reiss makes your selection of this wardrobe essential a bit easier with the Pisa and Almond trench coats.

Almond, $500; Pisa, $540. reiss.com

PASOTTI The Pasotti parasol will literally have you monkeying around in the rain. Handmade in Italy, the Pasotti collection offers a unique assortment of umbrellas to fit your fancy. Sixty years of bespoke craftsmanship make Pasotti a must-have for your next inclement adventure. Dance in the rain with this gorgeous pinstriped work of art. $239. pasottiombrelli.com

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CANADA GOOSE Brave the whistling winds in the Sandpoint Jacket by Canada Goose. The deep snorkel hood repels the elements while the lightweight yet durable fabrics keep you agile and on the move. $395 and up. canadagoose.com

COLUMBIA Be the leader of the pack. The women’s Outdry Ex Eco Jacket is the first high-performance, environmentally friendly rain jacket. Waterproof, breathable and fully seam-sealed, it covers all the bases. Increase your globility with the comforts of this gem in your wardrobe arsenal. $199. columbia.com

PHOTOS: © REISS, © CANADA GOOSE, © COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR, © PASOTTI OMBRELLI

TURNING OUR BACKS to Old Man Winter leaves us preparing to dance in the rains of April. This time of year is no cliché, and global citizens must sophisticatedly prepare for inclement weather conditions. Integration of technology into your lifestyle can lighten your load, reduce chaos and make your journey more relaxing. This month’s spoils offer a melodic celebration of fashion, style and luxury that intersects with technology.

LARRY D. THACKER Drip Galaxy is the title of this work. Celebrate beauty and elements of rain in the confines of your home. A quick jaunt to northern Tennessee reveals the brilliant work of Larry D. Thacker, a native Tennessean who works primarily in paint and assemblage and leans toward abstract. Adorn the walls of your estate with this masterpiece. Art prices vary.

PHOTOS: © LARRY D. THACKER, © MATADOR, © GSHOCK, © RADO, © XPLORE

larrydthacker.com

MATADOR A beast, for sure, the Matador BeastL28 backpack is your perfect daypack. Feather-light at 20 ounces, the Beast boasts a 28-liter capacity (about 1 cubic foot), water-resistant exterior and premium Nifco hardware, all qualities you need to hit the ground running. $89.99. matadorup.com

G-SHOCK Don’t let the vibrant colors fool you — this watch is not a game or a toy. Let’s just say you can spoil your wrist during your athleisure. The Casio GST-S110 features the strength and dignity of metal, making it practically indestructible.

A new, irregularly shaped solar panel allows more exposure to light regardless of the watch’s hand positions. $130.

RADO WATCH CO. A trilogy of silicon nitride ceramic, anodized aluminum and hardened titanium work in sync to create the HyperChrome Ultra-Light watch by Rado. Scratches are inevitable on most timepieces. Rest assured your wrist will be evergreen and flawless due to the scratch-resistant ceramic. $2,850.

gshock.com

rado.com

XPLORE Supercharge your computing experience with the Xplore XSLATE R12 tablet PC. The two-inone device gives you all the high-performance capabilities and complete computing functions in a single platform. Xplore tablets are MILSTD-810G-tested for resistance against a variety of extreme environmental elements, so you can trust this family of mobile rugged tablets to preserve the integrity of your personal files.

Finally, a breed that can handle your vigorous movement and demands. $2,695 and up. xploretech.com

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spas

BREATH OF FRESH AIR Take a revitalizing break at Terranea Resort on the California coastline. BY KIMBERLY KROL

THE GETAWAY:

Massage (top), and Lexus for the weekend (bottom) PHOTOS: © TERRANEA RESORT, © KATIE SKRZEK

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GLOBAL TRAVELER’S VICE PRESIDENT and digital director, Katie Skrzek, and I spent the quintessential girls’ weekend at Terranea Resort, located in Los Angeles County but feeling worlds away from the L.A. bustle and the rest of the world. We arrived for a bit of a breather before heading to Beverly Hills for GT’s annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards celebration, and the few days spent in ultimate relaxation helped us recharge before the busy event itinerary.

Our weekend included just the right amount of a little bit of everything.

We visited Terranea as part of the Lexus Hotel Partner Program, which includes 15 U.S. hotels offering different benefits that range from boat rides and resort credits to wine tastings and discounted room rates. Almost all of the partners have at least one Lexus on site for guests to drive, and at the end of the stay they can request a $1,000 certificate toward the purchase or lease of a new Lexus. At Terranea our experience included a Lexus vehicle to drive to and from the property and our choice of one of the customized Lexus-themed drive experiences.

In keeping with our girls’ getaway theme, we opted for the Retail Retreat, which included the complimentary use of the Lexus, a GPS-guided tour to South Coast Plaza, valet parking at South Coast Plaza, access to the shopping venue’s VIP suite, a VIP South Coast Plaza Passport, a $100 gift certificate to South Coast Plaza and a $50 gift card to use at Terranea’s retail outlets. The themed drives are available to Lexus owners staying in the Shearwater suites. Needless to say, we were spoiled that weekend. Other customized itineraries include The Adventure Escape and the Romantic Ren-

dezvous. We chose to drive the 2017 Lexus GS F, which handled the curves of the Southern California coastline with finesse.

Aside from shopping until we dropped (into the bar at Terranea for a glass of Champagne!), we made the most of our weekend and of the myriad offerings at Terranea. From a seaside lunch at Nelson’s and a 5-star alfresco meal at Mar’sel to shared plates at Bashi and experiencing the first and impressively expansive buffet brunch at the renovated Catalina Kitchen, we did it all.

We even developed a weekend-long affinity for the freshly baked cookies in Sea Beans and the aforementioned bubbly.

In addition to the ample resort offerings, the setting is unrivaled. And Terranea Resort makes efforts to conserve the natural beauty of the California coastline, its design guided by principles of ecological sustainability. Eco-friendly resort practices include closely following measures to protect open space, improve the wildlife habitat and enhance local water quality. The resort currently occupies only one-quarter of its 102 total acres. Other initiatives include food waste recycling, natural irrigation, saltwater pools, a sustainable growing philosophy, ecology and conservation programs, hybrid and low-emission vehicles, biodegradable golf tees and amenity containers, organic dry-cleaning services and employee uniforms made from bamboo and chemical-free organic materials.

As if the weekend couldn’t get any more decadent, we still had spa treatments scheduled. The spa spans 50,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor space with 25 treatment rooms, a fitness and wellness center, a Spa Café and a full-service salon. I indulged in a preview treatment of the Sound Sleep signature ritual, now available to spa goers in 2017. It was a welcome treatment after my Philadelphia–Los Angeles flight, as it’s designed for people unable to relax, who do not sleep well or who are recovering from travel.

I’m not one for deep, firm-pressure massages, so the light touch techniques practiced in this therapy were perfect. Sound Sleep integrates touch, smell and hearing to promote relaxation and rest.

Katie enjoyed the Radiant Results facial, which utilizes products from the Rose Infinity Collection, created using Nobel Prizewinning research to repair ageing DNA, increase moisture levels and stimulate collagen production. The forehead, mouth and eye area are key focus points, and the result is younger-looking skin and a radiant complexion. Katie commented several times on the

NATURAL BEAUTY:

Spa pool (above), and copper hot tub (left) PHOTOS: © TERRANEA RESORT

Terranea Resort 100 Terranea Way Rancho Palos Verdes, CA 90275 tel 310 265 2740 terranea.com

smoothness of her skin in the days post-treatment, and I must say, she did exude a relaxed glow.

Before departing for the hustle and bustle ahead, we capped off our Terranea experience with Monday morning seaside yoga and a light, healthy breakfast poolside at Spa Café, savoring our final moments breathing in the fresh, ocean air while the breeze tickled our skin, the waves crashed on the cliffs below and the view intoxicated.

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golf

QUINTESSENTIALLY CABO Combine golf with ocean views and nature at Quivira Golf Club.

CLIFFHANGER: Hole 5 green PHOTO: © QUIVIRA GOLF CLUB

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BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Quivira offers more sea exposure than any other course in Los IF YOU ARE COLLECTING spectacular views, if you enjoy watching Cabos, with dramatic drops from tee boxes to fairways and greens. It humpback whales slapping their pectoral fins while you line up a putt also offers unique “comfort stations” where players can take in outstandand if you want a challenging game — packaged all in one place — the ing views and refresh — with a complete bar and serious snack items. answer is Quivira Golf Club. I arrived after flying the Aeromexico red-eye from New York (JFK) to Mexico City (MEX) for an easy connec- They are located at the starter area, between holes 4 and 5, between holes 8 and 9 and at the 16th tee. If you must play tion to Cabo (SJD). When I was repeatedly asked why I took this flight, my answer was The Jack Nicklaus-designed signature in less than four hours, secure the first tee time of the morning. Otherwise, relax, stop at the comfort simple: I was the only person in our group to course sits on granite cliffs and stations, enjoy the views, watch the whales, see the play Quivira the first day, all 18 holes. What windswept dune ridges soaring over falcons flying level with you, sample one of Luis’ a little gift to myself ! the Baja Peninsula where the Sea of special tequila drinks and live the life of Quivira. A The Jack Nicklaus-designed signature second course by Nicklaus is in the works. course sits on granite cliffs and windswept Cortez and the Pacific Ocean meet.

Over the three days I teed up with Eric from dune ridges soaring over the Baja Peninsula Forbes.com; John, a roving serial journalist who writes “he-man” content where the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean meet. From the back (cars, motorcycles, golf and boxing); James, an editor for a newspaper in tees at 7,139 yards (par 72), the course is a monster; over the three full Texas and a golf pro most of his life; Anita, a Canadian who spends half days of golf I rotated from the gold to the white tees depending on the her time in Mexico; and Tim, an architectural wizard and photographer. players joining my foursome. The subtle difference meant a significant It was a great mix of talented golfers on many levels … and me. The change in clubbing for the second shot, so often the holes played quite yardage quoted here is from the black tees. differently.

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HOLE 4 | 616 YARDS, PAR 5

After ticking off a few warm-up holes, it’s time to hit a string of holes that are challenging, beautiful and make you think about each shot.

Off this tee, drive your ball from left to right so it lands away from the brush on the far side and the traps on the right. John slammed a drive straight on this slight dogleg right directly into the far brush, kissing any chance of par goodbye. I curved a drive, landing dead center in the fairway. With my trusty 3-wood I aimed the next shot a little right to stay clear of bunkers in the frontal landing area. My chip was a beaut, high and just where I wanted it, but the paspalum grass grabbed the ball and stopped it dead. A bogey was the best for the day.

HOLE 5 | 310 YARDS, PAR 4

After a stop at the second comfort station, you arrive at a spectacular hole you can play directly from the black tees across the granite and sand cliffs to the green. Enjoy the stunning views of the Pacific Ocean and migrating whales as you ponder your shot. From the gold and white tees you can cut the hole a bit for a shorter drive over the dunes to the green; either drive needs power and precision. Option three is to take a 3-wood and slap your drive straight on the right side, allowing the contours of the fairway to take the ball right to left into the rough above the green where the ball will sit up well and clean. Anita and I did just that, then chipped down to the green, landing just off to allow the ball to roll on; the paspalum cooperated this time. Par is easy if you figure out (over three days) your best options.

HOLE 11 | 375 YARDS, PAR 4

On this totally blind tee shot I was saved the first day by a spotter (course employees who help players spot drives) who lined me up to the skinny aiming pole on the left side of the rise. Without this pole, the first-time Quivira player has no clue where to aim. The fairway also splits in two, with a large growth area in the center, making a near-perfect drive crucial. Rumor has it the club will make the hole more playable, softening the rise and reducing the center overgrowth.

If you survive the drive, the shot to the green is slightly uphill; those favoring the right might find a favorable roll off the hill onto the green.

HOLE 12 | 635 YARDS, PAR 5

This hole was my nemesis, and it became the joke of all the other golfers. My best score was a double bogey; the worst was uncardable.

From the tee box the hole zigzags to the green. My fellow golfers would stand at the tee and say, “Where do I aim?” I’d say, “Simple.”

Your drive should favor the left, not so far that it ends up in the high grass but enough to ride the slope to the right and farther down the fairway.

The three times I played, I hit spectacular drives, only to be rejected on the second shot. Eric slammed a tee shot so far even James said, “Great drive.” I had a panic attack trying to find my line for the

second shot. When we all arrived at our fairway drives — after James drove me in circles in the cart to add further confusion — I walked forward about 75 yards to find my line. I found a hump on the right side and returned to my ball (well short of Eric’s drive) to take no prisoners and hit my 3-wood (great TaylorMade rentals, by the way).

After three days of making a complete mess of this second shot, I wanted to get this right. I slammed the shot and perfectly landed to the right of the left sand traps about 140 yards from the green. From here I made a mess of my game, ending with a decent putt. Perhaps the fourth time is the charm.

CHALLENGE: Hole 12 (top), and Hole 13 (bottom) PHOTOS: © QUIVIRA GOLF CLUB

HOLE 13 | 148 YARDS, PAR 3

I dubbed this hole Planet of the Apes due to the beach below and the gigantic boulders thrusting from the sea. In the movie, Taylor and Nova encounter the rocks blocking the beach — and at Hole 13, it’s best to stay clear of the rocks and beach. From the tee, favor the left side as the green slopes squarely from left to right. My tee shot landed on the left hill and rolled onto the green for a birdie putt (which I missed).

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Quivira Golf Club Cabo San Lucas Baja California Sur Mexico tel 800 990 8250 quiviragolfclub.com

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chefs

CULINARY EVOLUTION

CHEF VIRGINIE BASSELOT’S culinary creations extend beyond the actual food all the way to the flatware. Since joining La Réserve Genève Hotel and Spa as executive chef in October 2016, Basselot premiered a new menu and presentation at Le Loti, the hotel’s seasonal French restaurant. Reflective of Normandy, where Basselot was raised by parents in the restaurant industry, the menu features classic seafood dishes with a twist. She also oversees the hotel’s four other culinary outlets.

Her signature fresh cod in lemon balm butter, reminiscent of her grandmother’s cooking, served on a bed of pearl tapioca, arrives on a plate designed by Basselot featuring stylized, embossed orchids on fine china boasting alternating shiny and velvety matte effects that highlight the colors and presentation of the dish. All of the presentation pieces at Le Loti, from the crockery to the candleholders, were revamped to match the new menu.

Cooking is in Basselot’s blood — she began working in kitchens at 15 years old. Her career led to a Michelin star in 2014 and the Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2015. Basselot is only the second female to earn the MOF title, France’s highest recognition, since its inception in 1924.

With a passion for authenticity and regional producers, Basselot also delights guests with local specialties, including Volaille Nant d’Avril: roast chicken with cocoa nibs, Jerusalem artichokes and coffee gravy.

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WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR COOKING/MENUS? Asia has been a real source of inspiration for me. The methods and the working tools they use there are so different.

WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? My culinary hero is Eugénie Brazier, known as La Mère Brazier, who opened her eponymous restaurant in Lyon in 1921 and was the first female chef to be awarded three Michelin stars.

WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE, AND HOW? That would be Chef Éric Fréchon,

BY KIMBERLY KROL

during the nine years I worked with him.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? Lyon WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? The next trend will focus on traditional cuisine that best represents a particular region or country.

Le Loti at La Réserve Genève Hotel and Spa Route de Lausanne 301 1293 Bellevue Geneva, Switzerland tel 41 22 959 59 59 lareserve.ch

PHOTOS: © LE LOTI AT LA RÉSERVE GENÈVE HOTEL AND SPA

Executive Chef Virginie Basselot innovates with fresh, colorful dishes at La Réserve Genève Hotel and Spa.

be rewarded. be one.

Earn and redeem miles and points across all member airlines. As a oneworld traveler, wherever you go, your rewards follow.

Learn more at oneworld.com

an alliance of the world's leading airlines working as one. airberlin American Airlines British Airways Cathay Pacific Finnair Iberia Japan Airlines LATAM Malaysia Airlines Qantas Qatar Airways Royal Jordanian S7 Airlines SriLankan Airlines

oneworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a oneworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a oneworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). For information on oneworld, visit www.oneworld.com. airberlin, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LATAM Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, SriLankan Airlines and oneworld are trademarks of their respective companies. LATAM Airlines (Paraguay) is currently not a part of oneworld.

cruising

SPREE AT SEA Enjoy a freestyle vacation with Norwegian Cruise Line.

NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE, one of the world’s largest cruise operators, sails a 21st-century fleet of 16 ships, all dedicated to delivering a full resort experience. NCL pioneered its contemporary freestyle cruise mode a quarter-century ago. Quite casual and sporty, Norwegian voyages are rife with recreational facilities and “eat what you want, when you want, where you want” dining, designed to appeal to active adults and families on a spree.

Norwegian brings its “South Beach Miami” experience primarily to the world’s two most popular cruising destinations, the Caribbean and the Mediterranean, ideal waters for a vacation. Such ships as the 4,266-passenger Norwegian Epic sail from Miami into the Caribbean, stopping to party at NCL’s private resort island in The Bahamas, Great Stirrup Cay. North Americans are also booking NCL’s Mediterranean cruises at an accelerating rate, as cruises to Europe are on an upswing.

Due to this rising demand, NCL redeployed its 3,929passenger Norwegian Getaway from Miami to the Baltic Sea. And next summer the 4,028-passenger Norwegian Breakaway will relocate to Copenhagen for nine-day Russian and Scandinavian sailings.

Norwegian Cruise Line keeps a strong presence, too, in Alaska, Hawai’i, North America, Australia and Asia.

The 3,900-passenger Norwegian Joy, launched this year, is specially designed for the Chinese market. The 2,376-passenger Norwegian Jewel, based in Australia, offers several itineraries throughout the South Pacific and Southeast Asia. The 2,186-passenger Pride of America is the only cruise ship of its size to offer regular cruises in Hawai’i, which it does weekly (although this ship has not met with universal acclaim). Norwegian also conducts cruises to New England, eastern Canada, Florida, Bermuda and The Bahamas from New York. And next year, NCL will launch its latest creation, the 4,000-passenger Norwegian Bliss, from its home port in Seattle. The Norwegian Bliss will become the largest cruise vessel serving Alaska, with summer 2018 cruises originating from Seattle’s Pier 66, a port NCL helped redevelop and will manage for the next 15 years.

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BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

RESORT STYLE:

Norwegian Epic suite (above), and Norwegian Bliss Haven Restaurant (left) PHOTOS: © NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE50

NCL’s fleet is divided between its mid-sized resort ships, carrying about 2,000 passengers, and its large resort ships, with about double that capacity. Facilities vary somewhat, but don’t be surprised to find Las Vegas-style entertainment, acrobatic dinner shows, dozens of small eateries and wine bars, spacious spas, casinos, water parks, climbing walls, even bowling alleys. It’s basically a towering tropical resort with a lively waterfront boardwalk reshaped to fit inside a watertight hull.

Whichever ship and whatever its destination, passengers can expect to be bombarded with all the freestyle options and non-stop activities that make up an NCL playground at sea.

But many ships offer at least one onboard escape: The Haven, a ship-within-a-ship of suites with private restaurants, pools, sun decks and butler services, is perfect for those desiring a partial escape from the madding crowds.

a alf er h t f ea, A at s y r u ise cent Cru n a i weg Nor ns a mai e r r, ato Line nov n i a or ing maj add y l nt d in rece slan i e at priv ts to i e z i l f Be on o ecti l l tion o c aca v e usiv excl ts. spo

Business Class (Staggered Layout)

2016 Best Airline for Onboard Service 13th Consecutive Year

First Class with Door

ASIANA380 Business Class

2016 Best Airline for Flight Attendants 13th Consecutive Year

11.1” Monitors in Economy Class

Dressing Room (Lavatory)

A CLASS BEYOND THE ORDINARY

EXTRAORDINARY

Reservations • 1-800-2ASIANA • us.flyasiana.com

The New ASIANA380, Special Edition.

Our staggered layout offers direct access to the aisle, more private space, and fully reclining flat-bed seats for a pleasant in-flight experience.

feature

© MALDIVES001 | DREAMSTIME.COM BILL HEDGES

Natural Selection Environmental awareness fuels tourism’s big green travel machine.

BY DEBRA BOKUR

l mode a e ecom has b ism, y a tour l a Norw t n nmen catio o i r f i i t v n f cer for e ost o h a d with excee . t a h tions st a l e i u r g o nt re categ rnme e v o g

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ANYONE WHO’S SEEN those astonishing photos of the floating garbage island of Thilafushi near Malé knows no matter where you travel, there’s no escaping environmental issues. In fact, studies show the bulk of the trash that finds its way daily to this area of the sea is generated not by residents but by visitors to nearby resorts and parks.

The situation near Malé may be startling in its extreme, but it isn’t unique. In response to the outcry for responsible tourism infrastructure, a multitude of hoteliers, airlines, cruise lines and

outfitters around the globe are making strides to address the consequences of travel’s dark side with initiatives that lessen negative impacts on the planet and its waning resources.

THE INDUSTRY IS keen to be green. As the eco-travel market sector grows, a host of different definitions surface to describe what “green tourism” actually means. This can be a challenge for travelers trying to decipher claims before choosing where to invest their travel dollars.

“There are too many terms flying around — sustainable tourism, ecotourism, geotourism, green tourism, conservation tourism, etc.,” says Ted Martens, vice president, marketing & sustainability, Natural Habitat Adventures. “While industry folks will debate the fine nuances between these terms until they are blue in the face, it is our perspective [at Natural Habitat Adventures] to get past the semantics and focus on the core intention of these terms: travel that has a positive impact on the people and destinations where it occurs.”

Before certification became a popular delimiter for measuring sustainable practices, the country of Norway — even when layered with sparkling white snow — was a solid shade of green.

A collection of six labels that exceed government demands takes in energy, waste production and management, use of chemicals, transportation and demands for subcontractors in order to determine the viability of sustainable practices. As a result, travelers can experience impressive environmental stewardship across the country in places including the UNESCO-protected Vega Islands south of the Arctic Circle, in the town of Geilo between Oslo and Bergen, in the mountainous area near the Setesdal Valley and in the historic wooden village of Røros — an entire town functioning as a living museum that bears the exalted Sustainable Destination certificate.

The environmental tourism movement has definitely grown in scope and sophistication. Back in 1997, the Costa Rica Tourism Board created a Certification for Sustainable Tourism program that incorporated customer service and community involvement with principles of waste management and interaction with the

environment. Today that’s grown to include 358 businesses dedicated to promoting ecological and environmental awareness — an achievement recognized by the United Nations’ World Tourism Organization as the model for sustainable tourism practices throughout Latin America.

Turning to Europe, the European Commissioner for the Environment named the city of Essen, Germany, the 2017 European Green Capital for its huge strides in recreating itself as a leader in sustainable practices. These include the creation of green and blue corridors, performance in climate change, waste management and energy performance — a triumph for what was once a center for coal mining and proof that entire urban centers can be reinvented as green destinations.

BEAUTY AND THE BEAST:

Plastic waste dumping site at Thilafushi in the Maldives (far left); Røros, an old mining town in Norway, a certified Sustainable Destination (middle); and White Magic Waterfall in Costa Rica, a country recognized for sustainable tourism practices (right) PHOTOS: © MALDIVES001 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ED FRANCISSEN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © LINNETTE ENGLER |

FLY THE EMERALD skies. Transportation remains one of the largest travel-related sectors affecting the environment. Again, a Norwegian company leads the way: Norwegian Airlines boasts one of the world’s youngest and most fuel-efficient fleets and was named in 2015 by the International Council on Clean Transporta-

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tion as the Most Fuel Efficient Airline on Transatlantic Routes.

“Being a Scandinavian company, corporate social responsibility and environmental focus is already one of the key elements of our general approach to both business and customer focus,” explains Anders Lindström, director of communications USA, Norwegian Airlines. Lindström adds the company has seen a massive increase in environmentally conscious travelers who place increasing emphasis on prioritizing sustainability.

Recent innovations within the airline industry with regard to sustainable, environmentally responsible travel initiatives include the October 2016 approval by the 39th Assembly of the International Civil Aviation Organisation, or ICAO, of a historic resolution on the implementation of a Global Market-Based Measure for international aviation in 2021.

“The ICAO resolution creates an offsetting system for international aviation to cap aviation emissions at 2020 levels,” explains Kati Ihamäki, director, corporate sustainability, Finnair. “The CORSIA (Carbon Offsetting and Reduction Scheme for International Aviation) agreement complements the other emission reduction measures used in aviation. Biofuels is one of the most promising of the measures, and Finnair is also working for a Helsinki Green Hub initiative. Now, the green light is on the horizon — a diesel type of the fuel should be approved for aviation use in the first half of 2017.”

Finnair’s commitment to environmentally responsible practices also includes a renewed sustainability and strategy program focusing on a “Cleaner, Caring and Collaborative” future. In the “cleaner” category, this includes measures to reduce environmental impact such as noise and emissions, waste, de-icing fluids and packaging.

“Openness and respect for the environment and human rights are intrinsic to our Nordic mindset,” continues Ihamäki. “Looking at the world from our unique viewpoint, we see a need for change.

There’s a need for a more caring approach toward our planet and its people.”

ENVIRONMENTAL EMPHASIS:

Finnair (top), Sunriver Resort golf course (middle), and The Allison Inn & Spa (bottom) PHOTOS: © FINNAIR, © SUNRIVER RESORT, © ALLISON INN & SPA

SLUMBER BENEATH a sustainably supported roof.

Perception, at the very least, of a destination’s ecological practices influences countless would-be tourists every day. A growing number of properties have chosen to embrace the challenge of environmental impact rather than gloss over the issue or ignore it altogether, and it’s a definite sign of progress that there are far too many addresses to mention. Some of the brighter stars in environmentally progressive lodging include the Renaissance Montreal Downtown Hotel in Canada, Tierra Atacama in the northern Chilean desert and Sunriver Resort in Oregon, a property that includes four golf courses —

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quite often an eco-contentious topic.

“At Sunriver, we’ve taken great measures to ensure our four golf courses were built and currently maintained with the highest care to sustainability practices,” says Tom O’Shea, managing director, Sunriver Resort. “For example, we use recycled water for the courses, organic chemicals for treatment of the grasses, and take great care to ensure the safety and sanctuary of local wildlife found in the area. With eco-friendly travel and tourism continuing to grow as trends in the travel and adventure industry, I believe we’ll continue to see golf courses around the world debunking the myth that golf courses are not eco-friendly and finding new ways to continue to make the sport ‘green.’”

Also located in Oregon, deep within the state’s wine country, The Allison Inn & Spa earned LEED Gold certification for landscape restoration with native plants, water and energy conservation, and the use of green building materials. In addition to providing wildlife habitat in restored woodland and a planted sedum roof that reduces solar heat buildup and stormwater runoff, the resort also offers alternative transportation options to both guests and employees.

An increasing number of green-themed experiences like those offered by Natural Habitat Adventures includes opportunities for travelers to get a little closer to the environment through an array of experiential journeys. At Redwoods Treewalk in New Zealand’s Redwood Forest in Rotorua, visitors are immersed in the forest environment along the world’s longest suspended walkway. In San Francisco visitors can explore the bay aboard the only hybrid passenger fleet in North America. Operated by Alcatraz Cruises, part of Hornblower Cruises & Events, the state-of-the-art hybrid fleet

is powered by sun, wind, grid electricity and an onboard battery bank and hydrogen fuel cell technology approved by the U.S. Coast Guard.

Green encounters even extend to dining. In Indianapolis, Farm 360 boasts a 61,000-square-foot hydroponic garden using LED lights to nurture 25 different greens and herbs, with crop expansion planned in the near future. The farm is developing plans to supply local schools, various corporate entities and local restaurants including Garden Table. Also in the city, a 5,000-square-foot rooftop garden called Sky Farm atop the Sidney & Lois Eskenazi Hospital produced more than 2,200 pounds of fresh produce in its first year of operation.

INTO THE WOODS: Redwoods Treewalk, New Zealand PHOTOS: © BILL HEDGES

AS FOR THE FUTURE of green travel, Martens believes we’ll see more tourism companies place increasing emphasis on philanthropic efforts and expanding their contributions to environmental and community development initiatives in the places where they operate.

“Third-party certification would be a phenomenal tool for the travel industry if the industry could come to consensus on how to define ‘green’ and [agree] on a scheme that accurately assesses it,” Martens offers. “Unfortunately, we’ve seen failure after failure of green certification programs for travel. There are dozens of programs around the world, but very few here in North America. Until the industry can come up with a cohesive approach, there will never be enough recognition to create demand for it. And unfortunately, without that consumer demand, the industry will have a hard time rallying around a cohesive approach. It’s a bit of a chicken and egg problem.”

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feature

Sustainable Travel Eco-wise companies set policies to protect the world’s precious resources. BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY riendly Eco-f center takes travel United as the e g a t s lares ns dec Natio the 2017 l Year ationa n r e t n I le tainab of Sus m for Touris . pment Develo

THERE IS A CONSENSUS among some tourism insiders that we are experiencing a “new tourism.”

According to the Washington think tank Center for Responsible Travel, or CREST, new tourists have a higher level of environmental and cultural awareness. The end result: They are more demanding and more able to influence and have their say on products they consume.

“Animal welfare in tourism has been pushed forward in large part due to demand by travelers,” adds Samantha Hogenson, managing director, CREST. The organization’s tagline is “transforming the way the world travels.”

Studies released by CREST and other organizations indicate wildlife viewing rather than hunting has a bigger economic impact on local communities. It’s smarter tourism. At the same time, quality outweighs quantity. Today’s eco-conscious travel

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companies relying on clean environments and local communities for their trip packages limit group sizes to only a handful of guests. The results: offering personalized guest experiences while partnering with local suppliers to create jobs and, thus, reduce carbon footprints in remote areas.

“We talk about travel that actively contributes to the well-being of the environment and the people who are crucial in protecting the environment and benefiting from tourism,” explains Ted Martens, vice president, marketing and sustainability, Natural Habitat Adventures in Colorado — a travel company known for its signature grizzly and polar bear encounters.

Eco-friendliness is like a three-legged stool, comprising environmental, social and economic pillars. “Ten years ago, having a focus on conservation and sustainability may have been more of a differentiator. These days the differentiator is if you

are not doing something,” adds Martens on the growing interest in eco-friendly travel from consumers.

Take a look at some of the eco-friendly travel companies on land and sea.

THE WORLD’S LARGEST hotel chain, headquartered in Bethesda, Md., keeps upping the eco-hospitality industry game. With a keen eye on sustainability — aiming to satisfy guests’ needs while keeping the environment in mind — Marriott International’s ecoconscious Element brand, created in 2008, now spans 22 properties worldwide with 72 more in the pipeline. In early 2019 Element will open in Cairo’s upscale Heliopolis district. Slated to be the largest Element hotel in the Middle East and Africa, Element Cairo will be part of The Gate Project, the new, iconic, eco-friendly development featuring the largest housing, administrative and commercial facility in Egypt and the Middle East.

ITC Hotels, India’s premier luxury hotel chain, ranks among the pioneers of responsible luxury and leads the way in the industry as it integrates green practices in contemporary design. Practicing sustainability for nearly 30 years, it remains the greenest luxury hotel chain in the world. Each of its 11 properties boasts LEED Platinum certification, and the company’s office in Gurgaon was the world’s largest LEED Platinum-certified building when it opened in

2004. Launched in 1975, ITC Hotels is carbon positive (11 years), water positive (14 years) and solid waste recycling positive (nine years). Water is 100 percent treated and recycled, reducing hotel water consumption by 50 percent over the last five years.

The world’s first 100 percent carbon-neutral travel company believes in leaving small footprints. A leader in an industry of firsts, Natural Habitat Adventures offset all on-trip carbon emissions including employee travel in 2007, setting the groundwork for dozens of other companies now engaged in carbon offsetting. The Boulder, Colo.-based NHA, which began operations in 1985, is best described as “The Nature People” for its conservation-focused travel.

Known for life-affirming sustainable journeys, Big Five Tours & Expeditions for more than four decades has upheld a mission to deliver a luxury travel product while focusing on low-impact travel.

Founded in Kenya, the birthplace of the safari, this adventure travel company stands at the forefront of sustainable luxury travel.

“We also promote and support destinations such as Namibia, which has sustainability written into its constitution, and Costa Rica, which aims to be the first carbon-neutral nation,” the company reports on its website.

Thomas Cook, the world’s first travel agency — which created the first package holiday out of a sense of social responsibility

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BY LAND:

Natural Habitat Adventures’ grizzly bear (far left) and polar bear encounters (middle); Element Cairo (top); and ITC Sonar, Kolkata (bottom) PHOTOS: © BRAD JOSEPHS, © HENRY H. HOLDSWORTH, © ELEMENT, © ITC HOTELS

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BY SEA:

Alcatraz Cruises’ hybrid ferry (left), and AdventureSmith Explorations (right) PHOTOS: © ALCATRAZ CRUISES, © ADVENTURESMITH EXPLORATIONS

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more than 160 years ago — steps up to the tourism frontier plate again. Touted as an industry-leading initiative, the travel giant’s new animal welfare policy released in December 2016 aims to crack down on illegal wildlife poaching and has been applauded by international wildlife charities like the Born Free Foundation.

emissions in the ocean, known as blue carbon, by planting seagrass meadows. To date, the company reports the planting of 335,222 square feet of seagrass, offsetting 223,481 tons of carbon.

Royal Caribbean International committed to better clean water practices and works with partners like the World Wildlife Fund to emphasize ocean conservation efforts. An industry-first, fuel-efficienTHE OCEAN COVERS 71 percent of the Earth’s surface. It’s cy software, seven years in the making, optimizes ship speeds and believed by 2050 more plastic than fish will inhabit the sea. The World routes. The global cruise company appeared on Ethisphere’s 2016 Wildlife Fund reports in the last 30 years some ocean wildlife populaWorld’s Most Ethical Companies list, a distinction granted to only tions declined by nearly 50 percent. The threats facing the ocean are 130 companies in 21 countries. Royal Caribbean introduced a Save greater than ever. the Waves initiative in 1992 to focus on The Cousteau Society has a emissions and waste reduction. Over ‘Through our Carbon Free Cruising simple motto: “Custodians of the the past decade, the cruise company campaign we will completely neutralize Sea since 1943.” Founded by the built its most efficient cruise ships and world’s most famous ocean explorer, reduced its greenhouse gas emissions harmful carbon emissions created as a the late Jacques Cousteau — whose by nearly 25 percent. In 2015, 17 ships result of our guests’ cruise travel.’ work saving marine life aboard the reported 100 percent re-purposed waste Calypso was chronicled in his legon certain itineraries.

— AdventureSmith Explorations founder Todd Smith endary TV series The Undersea World A finalist in the 2016 World Travel of Jacques Cousteau — the award& Tourism Council’s Tourism for winning organization of ocean conservationists works with local Tomorrow Awards in the Environment category, Alcatraz Cruises NGOs on marine conservation projects. A recipient of numerous operates the first hybrid ferry in North America and is regarded as a high honors such as the International Environmental Prize from the trendsetter in hybrid vehicles. Its parent company, California-based United Nations in 1977, Cousteau also received the U.S. Presidential Hornblower Cruises, is a leading charter yacht and public dining Medal of Freedom in 1985. In 1988 he was inscribed in the United cruise operator which created the revolutionary hybrid design, Nations Environment Programme’s Global 500 Roll of Honor for reducing fuel consumption by 75 percent by using solar panels, wind Environmental Achievement and received the National Geographic turbines and grid electricity.

Society’s Centennial Award.

Since its debut in 2005, AdventureSmith Explorations led the Since its founding 14 years ago, The Ocean Foundation spearrevolution in creating a completely carbon-free cruise experience. A headed projects worldwide. In the first 13 years the foundation gave global leader in small adventure cruises, the company, headquarmore than $34 million to organizations in support of projects such tered in Tahoe City, Calif., introduced the world’s first carbon-free as the Alaska Oceans Program and the Shipping Safety Partnership. cruising program. Founder Todd Smith notes, “Through our The Ocean Foundation’s president, sustainability pioneer Mark Carbon Free Cruising campaign we will completely neutralize J. Spalding, designed the first-ever blue carbon offset program, harmful carbon emissions created as a result of our guests’ cruise SeaGrass Grow, enabling people to naturally offset greenhouse gas travel.”

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mice | OTTAWA

Embracing Change With green initiatives, Ottawa hosts Earth-friendly events.

BY RON BERNTHAL

rates a celeb Canad 0th its 15 July 1 rsary annive l ationa with n ll ities a festiv lly in specia year, e ity pital c the ca tawa. of Ot

VIBRANT VENUE: Shaw Centre exterior in the evening PHOTO: © OTTAWA CONVENTION CENTRE CORPORATION

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DURING WINTER, OTTAWA’S many trees are bare. The frozen Rideau Canal, Ontario’s only designated UNESCO World Heritage site, becomes the Rideau Canal Skateway, a serpentine, five-mile-long ice skating rink. Thick layers of snow, like icing on a wedding cake, cover the hills near Canada’s stately Parliament buildings.

By late spring, however, Ottawa blossoms into a lush, green paradise. The large sugar maples are verdant again, lindens show their fragrant flowers, honey locusts line the river banks, and 60-foot Turkish hazel trees provide shade during Ontario’s ethereal summer. Brightly colored sailboats tack with the breezes along the Ottawa River, and dairy cows graze on green pastures on many of the 1,000 farms within the city limits. Ottawa boasts more farms within its borders than any other city in Canada, plus 20 acres of green space for every 1,000 residents — more than most cities in the world — a reminder that, although the city is home to the country’s most important political and cultural institutions, it often feels like any quiet, rural town in North America, or France, if you include its Frenchspeaking suburbs in Québec just across the Ottawa River.

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For MICE planners, the city and its meeting venues are as sustainable and energy-efficient as possible. Energy Ottawa, an affiliate of Hydro Ottawa, is installing solar panels on eight municipal rooftops, including city recreational centers and bus garages, which will feed electricity into the local power grid. “We understand how important green energy solutions are to our customers, our city and province,” said Greg Clarke, chief electricity generation officer, Energy Ottawa.

When the glass-faced Shaw Centre, the city’s largest convention venue, opened in 2011, it offered businesses, visitors and staff an exceptional ecofriendly meeting facility. The contractors and architects who redesigned the new building, the former Ottawa Convention Centre, had to meet environmental sustainability requirements.

The design resulted in energy savings of 25 percent, achieved through the installation of high-efficiency mechanical equipment, a highperformance building envelope, increased insulation levels, variable-speed pumps and motors, high-performance windows and frames, occupancy and daylight sensors to reduce interior lighting consumption, and lowflow water fixtures.

The Shaw saves 225,000 gallons of water each year by harvesting and storing rainwater in a cistern below the building before pumping it back for gray water needs, including landscaping irrigation. The Wall of Three Rivers, a large artwork in the building, consists of reclaimed logs that sank to the bottom of the Ottawa River during the logging era. The building earned LEED Gold certification by the Canada Green Building Council.

“Clients want to understand the true cost of their event, at a very detailed level,” said Mathieu Murphy, director of facilities, Shaw Centre.

“Our guests and suppliers are more eco-conscious than ever; that encourages us to continually refine our operations, increasing our waste diversion and using automation technology to reduce our use of electricity, heating

and cooling.”

The Shaw Centre’s 192,000 square feet of usable space includes the 57,740-square-foot Canada Hall; the 19,032-square-foot Trillium Ballroom; and 28 flexible, fully carpeted meeting rooms. It also stands as an architectural icon in the heart of downtown Ottawa, within walking distance of 6,000 hotel rooms and an easy 20-minute drive from Ottawa Macdonald-Cartier International Airport.

The Shaw books about 500 conventions, meetings and trade/consumer shows a year.

Upcoming 2017 green conferences include the International Conference on Technology and Environmental Science (May); the International Conference on Water, Informatics, Sustainability and Environment (July); and the International Conference on Sustainable Development (August).

The 496-room Westin Ottawa, physically connected to the Shaw Centre and the Rideau Centre Mall via an indoor walkway, offers planners 44,000 square feet of meeting space; 27 tech-centric meeting rooms; a 16,500-squarefoot Grand Ballroom; and another ballroom with windows overlooking Rideau Canal and Parliament.

The Hotel Association of Canada voted the property the 2013 Energy & Environment Award winner.

Other large downtown meeting hotels include the 427-room Fairmont Château Laurier, opened in 1912 and located across the street from the Shaw Centre. Offering 36,000 square feet of meeting space and 16 meeting rooms, it is expanding its footprint overlooking the Rideau Canal. The 481-room Ottawa Marriott provides 26 meeting rooms; 36,162 square feet of meeting space; and four concierge levels.

New boutique properties opened in 2016 include the Alt Hotel Ottawa, with 148 guestrooms and nine colorfully named meeting rooms totaling 5,370 square feet. Hyatt’s Andaz Ottawa ByWard Market property features 200 guestrooms; unique studio spaces and lounges in 4,500 square feet of flexible function space; and the 16th-floor Copper Spirits & Sights, a stylish indoor/outdoor rooftop lounge, bar and restaurant.

The Ottawa Conference and Event Centre, 15 minutes from downtown, contains 43,000 square feet of convention space; 37 meeting rooms; extensive food and beverage services; and complimentary underground parking. The facility connects to the 397-room Courtyard by Marriott Ottawa East and the 179-room Hampton Inn Ottawa by Hilton.

Many large national museums can host private dinners,

CITY FOR ALL SEASONS: Sens Rink of Dreams (top), and the entrance to the Rideau Canal bike path near ByTown Museum PHOTOS: © OTTAWA TOURISM

UNIQUE VENUES MICE venues in the Outaouais region, just across the Ottawa River, include Nordik Spa-Nature, the largest spa in North America, and Fairmont Le Château Montebello. The spa boasts a green commitment with the mantra, “What is good for the body should be good for nature.” The spa accommodates groups, and overnight guests can stay in cabins or lodges. The Fairmont, built in 1930 of red cedar logs with an iconic six-sided stone fireplace in the lobby, offers 211 guestrooms, a beautiful golf course and the Eco-Meet green conference planning option that lessens the environmental impact of meetings through reduced resource consumption.

conferences and incentive events, such as the Canadian Museum of History, the Canada Agriculture and Food Museum, the Science & Technology Museum, the Canadian Aviation and Space Museum and the National Gallery of Canada.

The $28.7 million Ottawa Art Gallery Expansion and Arts Court Redevelopment project is part of the ongoing revitalization of Ottawa’s downtown. The ArtHaus Residences at Arts Court will be the first condominium project in North America to include a deluxe hotel (Hôtel Le Germain), art gallery and theater space. When completed this fall, the OAG, with 80,000 square feet on five floors, will offer a great cultural venue for city residents and off-site events.

Ottawa’s transportation master plan for 21 miles of new light rail rapid transit and 19 stations is on target to be fully operational by 2023. The Confederation line’s downtown portion will be mostly completed this year, the 150th anniversary of Canada’s Confederation. The entire transit project will cost about $3.7 billion, the largest infrastructure project in the history of the city.

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Consider several venues within revitalized Lansdowne Park, an 18-acre, mixed-use complex near downtown consisting of private and public facilities including the redesigned TD Place Stadium; Craft Beer Market brewpub; and the restored 1898 Aberdeen Pavilion, a national historic site. The ByWard Market district, within walking distance of downtown, features a large year-round outdoor food market, restaurants and small shops along its busy streets and tucked into quiet courtyards.

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BUSINESS destinations d talize r o m e im ffs s hav m l st cli i r f a y k n ly Ma . world r e lands h t s i o i e a h t e Th of th

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NASHVILLE

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QUITO

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CAPE TOWN

LEISURE destinations

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FRANCE

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THAI ISLANDS

destination one | SAUDI ARABIA

Green Decree Saudi Arabia’s new standards for sustainable development take shape.

BY RICHARD NEWTON

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FROM JEDDAH TO RIYADH, we make the 500-mile journey on a pristine highway heading inland from the coast, skirting Mecca, climbing the Rift Valley escarpment and then traversing the unrelieved, pale flatness of the Arabian Desert. The road has clear purpose: linking Saudi Arabia’s two most important cities. Less clear is the purpose of the bridges that straddle it at regular intervals. There are no roads or rail tracks across them. They are bridges from nowhere, to nowhere.

The mystery remains unsolved until we see one in use. The silhouettes crossing from one side to the other are unmistakable: camels. The desert is their domain, and the highway sliced it in two. High fences to prevent the camels’ straying into the path of speeding vehicles enforce the sides of the road. The bridges, surfaced in sand and stone, link the two halves of the camels’ range. The animals cross back and forth without regard to the traffic below.

On first impression, Saudi Arabia’s great leap into the modern world seems to be

ARABIAN SIGHTS: View of Riyadh from the Al Faisaliah tower (top), a camel on the outskirts of Jeddah (bottom left), Jeddah architecture (middle) and water tower in Jeddah (right) PHOTOS: © GIUSEPPE MASCI | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALJADANI | DREAMSTIME.COM, © GIUSEPPE MASCI | DREAMSTIME.COM. © AYED MOEED AL JEDAANI | DREAMSTIME .COM

DESERT KINGDOM:

Riyadh (top), people on the Corniche in Jeddah (bottom left), and clay rocks outside Riyadh (bottom right) PHOTOS: © SWISSHIPPO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © GIUSEPPE MASCI | DREAMSTIME.COM,

COMING AND GOING

All U.S. citizens require a passport valid for at least six months beyond arrival and a confirmed round-trip airline ticket. A visa is also required and should be obtained three to four weeks prior to arrival. If your passport contains evidence of travel to Israel or family links to Israel, it is likely your visa application will be rejected. Female travelers require a chaperone (husband, male relative or sponsor).

LODGING ABHA PALACE HOTEL This luxury hotel located on the western side of the city of Abha is convenient for trips to Asir National Park.

Nahran Road, Abha $$$

unrestricted by environmental concerns: vast oil fields, refineries, multilane highways, high-rise cities. But look closely and you’ll find green issues move increasingly to the fore, enshrined most starkly in a decree made in March 2014 by a government agency, the Presidency of Meteorology and Environmental Protection, compelling all companies to meet new standards for air, water and noise pollution by 2019.

Saudi Arabia is the world’s largest producer of oil, and for decades the resultant wealth enabled the kingdom to shape its infrastructure without thought to sustainability. But now, with oil revenue sharply down and reserves declining, the kingdom seeks to diversify its economy and to create a future much less dependent on fossil fuel.

Sustainability is a priority for all new projects, many overseen by the Saudi Green Building Forum, an NGO counting major local construction companies such as the Binladin Group and Saudi Aramco among its members.

The SGBF is a crucial advisor to the kingdom’s

biggest megaproject, a $93 billion new-build city taking shape on the shores of the Red Sea 60 miles north of Jeddah. The King Abdullah Economic City was conceived with sustainability as a central aim and a layout designed to prioritize walking, cycling and the use of public transport and to discourage private vehicles.

Remarkably for a country still economically dependent on the export of fossil fuel, and where gasoline is still just 24 cents a liter, the new city will rely largely on renewable energy sources, especially solar power, another natural commodity this desert land has in abundance. On the flip side, water is scarce, and the city is going to great lengths to ensure responsible use, both during construction and in future day-to-day life.

Elsewhere in the kingdom, both Riyadh and Jeddah are currently being retrofitted with state-ofthe-art public transport systems. The Riyadh Metro, to boast 85 stations, is due to open in 2018 at an estimated cost of $22 billion. The $8.5 billion Jeddah Metro, with 17 stations, is expected to start operating in 2020.

INTERCONTINENTAL RIYADH Centrally located and offering 5-star comfort, this property benefits from IHG’s Green Engage system, monitoring and limiting environmental impact.

King Saud Road, Riyadh $$$$ MÖVENPICK RESORT AL NAWRAS JEDDAH The Green Globe-certified resort offers private one- and two-bedroom villas facing the Red Sea on an exclusive island close to downtown.

Prince Naif Road, Corniche Street, Jeddah $$$$

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ON THE RISE: Kingdom Tower sky terrace (top left), side view (right), and canopies (bottom left) PHOTOS: © ADRIAN SMITH + GORDON GILL ARCHITECTURE

has rabia A i d Sau ers. al riv r u t a no n pply er su t a w The t on enden is dep nd ers a aquif n. inatio desal

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The most ambitious rail project of all is the Saudi Landbridge, an upgrade of the existing rail network that will link the Red Sea to the Arabian Gulf, with capacity to transport 8 million tons of freight each year, cutting the transport time from five to seven days by sea to just 18 hours.

Of all the projects currently underway in Saudi Arabia, the one most likely to capture global attention is the 3,260-foot-tall Kingdom Tower in Jeddah which, upon completion in 2018, will be the world’s tallest building (Dubai’s Tower at Creek Harbour may regain the mantle when it tops out in 2020 — its ultimate height is still a guarded secret).

As with all other current Saudi megaprojects, the construction of Kingdom Tower supports efficiency and

sustainability as key objectives, including low-conductivity glass to reduce the cost of keeping the interior cool during the ferociously hot summers.

For visitors, this highly conservative Islamic country can feel somewhat restrictive. LGBTQ travelers must necessarily keep a low profile (homosexuality is illegal).

Women are not permitted to enter the country without their spouse, a male relative or a sponsor. All visitors are required to adhere to the conservative dress code. Alcohol is banned.

The Kingdom Tower, however, will be one of the few major buildings in the country that does not segregate men and women. It remains to be seen if it will stand as a symbol for a new direction in Saudi Arabia: more inclusive, more tolerant and more sustainable.

ECO-AWARE

Paul Papanicolaou (left), and Mövenpick Resort Al Nawras Jeddah PHOTOS: © MÖVENPICK RESORT

CHECKING IN WITH PAUL PAPANICOLAOU

General Manager, Mövenpick Resort Al Nawras Jeddah

AL NAWRAS JEDDAH

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT +3 Phone code: Country code: 966 City codes: Riyadh 11, Jeddah 12, Abha 17 Key industries: Oil and gas, mining, construction, telecommunications Currency Saudi riyal

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE

Arabic, though English is widely spoken in business.

How important are environmental considerations in the daily operations of Mövenpick Resort Al Nawras Jeddah?

Extremely important, especially given our location in the city built on an island. On a daily basis we collect, record and sort our waste and review our energy and water usage, recycling an average 2,000 kilos of waste per month. Being Green Globe-certified, our staff is fully aware of our targets, and all share in creating an environmentally focused resort. In addition, we are heavily involved in the community with various volunteer programs.

Would you say Saudi Arabia, in general, is becoming more environmentally conscious?

Without doubt, yes. There is a great awareness for the environment. Saudi Arabia has made it clear the protection and improvement of the environment is at the heart of its basic law, becoming an integral part of overall development planning in all projects in the kingdom, covering industrial, agricultural and architectural initiatives. Saudi Arabia has a 2030 vision plan focusing on using renewable resources, making the country more environmentally conscious.

What cultural differences should Americans be aware of when visiting Saudi Arabia?

Saudi Arabian people are extremely hospitable and welcoming. If you can learn basic Arabic or the local greeting, you will find a different world can open up. Women should observe the Saudi dress code of wearing conservative, loose-fitting clothes including a full-length robe (abaya) and keep a scarf with them to cover their hair.

What are the key developments to look for in the future?

Currently there are many large construction projects for private enterprise and the government. In Jeddah we have the Corniche Development, which includes the Jeddah Eye (largest Ferris wheel in the world at about 780 feet), and we have the new airport, expected to open in 2017, including a new high-speed rail network to Mecca and Medina. We have the Kingdom Tower project, the tallest building in the world. In addition, we have construction at King Abdullah Economic City north of Jeddah, where they are building an entire city.

Which visitor attractions would you recommend?

Jeddah’s nickname, “Bride of the Red Sea,” is well-justified. You can enjoy some of the best snorkeling and scuba diving in the Red Sea. A visit to the Fakieh Aquarium provides something for all ages. Balad is the historic city center of Jeddah and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is a great place to explore and find your own treasure in the many souks lining the streets.

DINING 19TH CENTURY BURGER This simple, no-fuss, international eatery is part of the fast-food chain inspired by the (disputed) origins of the humble burger, possibly invented in Hamburg, Germany.

Ameer Sultan Street, Al Mohmmediah, Jeddah $$ ASSALAM PALACE REVOLVING RESTAURANT The 10th-floor restaurant offers spectacular panoramas of the city and its surroundings, but the view is better than the food, so come for lunch rather than dinner.

Assalam Palace Hotel, Al Imam Muhammad Ibn Saud Street, Abha $$$ NAJD VILLAGE, RIYADH Enjoy traditional Arabian food in a traditional Arabian setting. Don’t expect tables; you eat crosslegged on the floor. Choose from two locations in the city.

Al Takhassusi Street, Riyadh King Abdul Aziz Branch Road, Riyadh $$$

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UNSPOILED WILDERNESS:

DIVERSIONS

On a misty morning, wrapped up against the cold, we follow a trail through greenery. The fog burns off, revealing a breathtaking panorama of rugged mountains. Where are we?

Entirely subverting our preconceptions, we’re in Saudi Arabia, close to the city of Abha, in Asir National Park. Covering an area of more than 600 square miles, this precipitous park on the Rift Valley escarpment protects more than 300 species of birds, hamadryas baboons (a particularly hairy species of monkey) and the elusive Arabian leopard. Rising to 9,000 feet above sea level, the high-altitude park offers respite from the cauldron heat of the Arabian Desert, and with its diverse vegetation provides a striking contrast to the barren dunes.

Asir is not the only surprise this kingdom has to offer. Here’s another: Within sight of the skyline of Jeddah, we keel off the side of a boat into an explosion of bubbles. When the water clears, we find ourselves drifting above a coral reef teeming with life. Here in the Red Sea, as in the mountains of Asir, the aridity of the Arabian Desert seems a world away.

At Mahazat as-Sayd Protected Area, immediately

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Winding road through Asir National Park (top left), Arabian oryx (top right), and two hamadryas baboons (bottom) PHOTOS: © RICHARD NEWTON, © JOHNBAV | DREAMSTIME.COM

INFO TO GO to the south of the Jeddah-to-Riyadh highway, our preconceptions are finally met. This is more like the Arabia we imagined: a flat expanse of stark desert, interspersed with clumps of brush and isolated thorn trees. Here we encounter vultures, lone gazelles, a running flock of top-heavy ostriches and our ultimate goal, one of the great natural symbols of the region: the Arabian oryx.

A herd of these magnificent, straight-horned antelopes clusters in tree shade, watching us warily. They were hunted to extinction in the 1960s and were only saved thanks to a captive breeding program coordinated by the San Diego Zoo. This reintroduced herd is a beacon of hope for Saudi Arabia’s wildlife.

Saudi Arabia does not offer a great deal of tourist infrastructure. Asir National Park is best visited on daytrips from Abha, while access to Mahazat as-Sayd requires a permit from the Saudi Wildlife Authority.

Red Sea diving is much more developed, with several dive operators based in Jeddah and 200 miles up the coast at Yanbu. All provide glimpses of the kingdom’s surprising diversity.

Saudi Arabia’s busiest international entry point is Jeddah’s King Abdulaziz International Airport, 11 miles north of downtown, the staging post for pilgrims taking part in the annual Hajj to Mecca. The airport is nearing the end of a major expansion, upping annual capacity from 13 million to 80 million passengers. In terms of area, Riyadh’s King Khalid International Airport is the world’s second-largest airport, with connections to most corners of the globe. Most arrivals to Abha International Airport fly in via Jeddah or Riyadh, but there are also direct connections to Doha (DOH), Dubai (DXB) and Cairo (CAI).

M Y L A G O S M Y W AY

C AV I A R C O L L E C T I O N S

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stateside | NASHVILLE

n You ca ve hear li music ays 365 d in a year ille.

Nashv

Sweet Harmony Nashville hits a high note in business, tourism and sustainability. BY KATIE MCELVEEN WITH MORE THAN 120 live performance venues and a whopping $9.7 billion impact on the music industry, Nashville more than earns its Music City moniker. But dig a little deeper, and a more comprehensive region begins to emerge, one with a diverse economy, a low cost of living and a welleducated workforce. Add cultural diversity, unique neighborhoods, professional sports teams and a thriving creative community, and it’s no wonder Nashville is experiencing unprecedented growth in tourism, business development and population.

“The Nashville region is a magnet, particularly for a younger generation,” says Ralph Schulz, president and chief executive officer, the Nashville Area Chamber of Commerce.

“Over the last year, the Nashville economic region was named one of the top-performing regions in the world.”

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It’s also one of the most innovative, particularly when it comes to sustainability. Completed in 2013, Music City Center, the city’s 2.1-million-square-foot convention center, earned LEED Gold certification and features a four-acre green roof; a 360,000-gallon rainwater collector; and an array of 845 solar panels. Nashville International Airport, serving 12 million passengers annually, is eco-friendly, too, supporting the environment with programs like solar-powered electric vehicle charging stations and an award-winning cooling system that provides significant savings in electricity and water. Small

PEAK PERFORMANCE:

Ascend Amphitheater (top), and Green Cab electric taxi PHOTOS: © ALIVE COVERAGE, © GREEN CAB

GOING GREEN:

Compost Nashville (left), and Cumberland Park (right) PHOTO: © 30 MILES, © NASHVILLE CONVENTION & VISITORS CORP.

SCENIC DRIVES

business takes part as well: Compost Nashville provides composting services to local restaurants, Green Cab runs a fleet of electric taxis, and artist cooperatives are transforming old factories into galleries.

The city is getting prettier, too. Cumberland Park opened in 2012, transforming a 7.5-acre abandoned industrial site into an urban oasis; across the river, Ascend Amphitheater brings music to a former landfill. Throughout the region, more than 190 miles of trails — about a third of which are paved — weave through parks and link open spaces. Streetscapes include bike lanes, LED streetlights and plantings of native trees and shrubs.

“It’s critical that we preserve and protect the natural beauty and environmental resources that contribute to Nashville’s unique appeal,” says Mayor Megan Barry, whose Livable Nashville Committee leads the city’s eco charge. “We’re working to develop the right solutions to ensure that as our city grows, we do it in an environmentally sustainable way.”

Even with all these green initiatives, Tennessee’s business-friendly tax laws keep the cost of doing business in Nashville at about 88.5 percent of the national average. Businesses have noticed: Between July 1, 2016, and Nov. 29, 2016, 41 businesses — including Warner Music Group, General Motors and health care information company myNEXUS — announced relocations and expansions that will result in 4,630 jobs and more

than $5 million in capital investment. They’ll join companies like Nissan North America, Dollar General, Gibson Guitar and Hospital Corp. of America, all headquartered in Nashville.

Most recently, Nashville’s biggest growth industry is tourism. In 2015 more than 13.5 million tourists spent $5.7 billion on visits to Nashville, an increase of 3.5 million from just five years ago. To keep up with the rising tide of travelers, 11 hotels — including Cambria Suites, Kimpton Aerston, 21c Museum Hotel and The Noelle — will add 1,528 rooms to the region’s existing 39,700 in 2017. The city is so hot it even has its own TV show, CMT’s aptly named Nashville, starring Connie Britton and Hayden Panettiere.

Driving this growth are Nashville’s music attractions, including everything from the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum and historic RCA Studio B to the honky-tonks that line Lower Broadway. But they’re not the only game in town. A stroll through Nashville’s museums, galleries and historic sites proves the city has evolved into a sophisticated, multifaceted destination.

Interested in checking it out? Getting here couldn’t be easier. Not only is Nashville one of just six U.S. cities with direct access to three interstate highways, but Nashville International Airport is served by 12 airlines — including 2016 additions JetBlue and WestJet — and offers direct flights to more than 50 destinations.

Running from Natchez, Miss., to Nashville, the 444-mile-long Natchez Trace Parkway winds through deep hardwood forests, past sweeping valleys and over dramatic bridges. For a taste of old Tennessee, follow it about 40 miles to the town of Leiper’s Fork. One of Tennessee’s oldest communities, Leiper’s Fork experienced somewhat of a renaissance in recent years as artists, shopkeepers and restaurant owners set up shop in historic buildings. Don’t miss Serenite Maison for vintage home goods and sweet-smelling soaps and Country Boy for a plate of milehigh biscuits. You might even catch a glimpse of a Nashville star or two: Wynonna Judd and Holly Williams — Hank’s daughter — have been spotted in town.

With its dramatic Gothic buildings (including the 19th-century All Saints Chapel) and students clad in black academic gowns roaming its campus, Sewanee: The University of the South could easily pass for Cambridge or Oxford in England.

In reality, the liberal arts college perches atop the Cumberland Plateau about 90 miles east of Nashville on Interstate 24. Part college town, part nature preserve, the 13,000-acre domain, as it’s called, is speckled with caves and crisscrossed by more than 50 miles of hiking trails that end at spectacular overlooks. Pre- or post-hike, fuel up on burgers and other pub grub at Shenanigans, located in the center of the tiny town and decorated with artwork created by students and professors.

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9–5 | QUITO

In the Clouds Quito soars with possibilities for entertaining clients.

BY JACK GUY

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CAPITAL VIEW: THE AMAZING CITY of Quito is the second-highest capital in South America, and at View of El Panecillo in 9,350 feet above sea level, you may find it takes your breath away in more ways than the center of Quito with one. Some business travelers visiting Ecuador head to the financial hub of Guayaquil in the Cotopaxi volcano in the background the south, but Quito remains the seat of political and cultural power. It’s not unusual for visitors arriving at the city’s Mariscal Sucre Airport to feel a touch of altitude sickness, PHOTO: © PATRICIO HIDALGO | DREAMSTIME.COM although it’s nothing some coca leaf tea or Diamox can’t fix for most travelers.

After opening in 2013, about 25 miles east of the city center, the airport became one of the busiest in South America, accommodating a steady increase in visitors. The ride to city center It’s not unusual for visitors arriving at takes one to two hours depending on traffic; taxis the city’s Mariscal Sucre Airport to feel cost $25–40, depending on time of day and your destination. Another good option, the Aeroservicios a touch of altitude sickness, although coach, runs 24 hours a day to the Quito bus terminal it’s nothing some coca leaf tea or and offers free onboard WiFi. Book online before you arrive for $8 each way.

Diamox can’t fix for most travelers.

Riding into town, you’ll notice the city is surrounded by imposing volcanic peaks which form part of the Ring of Fire that runs along the edge of the Pacific tectonic plate. Despite its small size, Ecuador features a wide range of landscapes and its own set of environmental issues. Perhaps its most challenging project is the Condor Bioreserve — 5.4 million

acres of public protected areas, farms, ranches and indigenous territories that encompass snow-capped volcanoes, cloud forests, high-altitude grasslands, rain forests and waterways. The Bioreserve’s creeks and rivers supply Quito with drinkable water. In 2000 The Nature Conservancy teamed up with the U.S. Agency for International Development and local partners to create a water conservation fund to achieve sufficient water quantity and quality to meet the needs of the people of Quito and provide long-term protection of water sources in the Bioreserve.

Alongside the natural wonders, you’ll find plenty of evidence of human ingenuity.

The biggest attraction in Quito is its Old Town, one of the first UNESCO World Heritage sites ever declared and the bestpreserved colonial city in the whole of the Americas.

In the middle of the historic center, the Hotel Plaza Grande boasts one of the most distinguished addresses in Quito. The first building to be constructed by the Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century, it sits on Independence Square surrounded by the cathedral, city hall and government palace.

It’s a truly sumptuous place to stay or invite clients to dine.

Make an impression over dinner at the hotel’s La Belle Époque restaurant, serving up French and international cuisine in a distinguished atmosphere. While the food is incredible, the live opera performances while you eat are bound to make the night a memorable one. What good is entertaining clients if you take them somewhere eminently forgettable?

If you need an early start, get proceedings under way with a power breakfast at Europa Café. Found inside the Hotel Dann Carlton, this charming spot provides everything you need to begin the day. Great coffee, a wide selection of baked treats and freshly pressed juices make this an ideal place to get off to a productive start.

For a private lunch meeting, book a table at Zazu. For more than 10 years this spot has carved out a reputation as one of the best restaurants in Latin America, serving up local dishes with a gourmet twist. Think stone crab ceviche washed down with one of the thousands of bottles of wine from what is touted as the largest wine cellar in town.

After a long day of meetings, take your clients for a few relaxing cocktails at La Naranjilla Mecanica. This trendy spot is packed with hip locals who come to listen to live music while enjoying drinks prepared by expert bartenders. After the old-world glamour of the Old Town, La Naranjilla Mecanica provides a window into what contemporary Quito is all about.

If you want to seal the deal over a few more drinks, head to famed jazz bar El Pobre Diablo. Here you can sip on a stiff drink, take in some of the best jazz Ecuador has to offer and let your hair down. Other options for late-night fun include the chic Oceana

HISTORIC STYLE: Independence Square in Quito (above), and toquilla hats (left) PHOTOS: © PABLO HIDALGO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © OLIVER NOWAK | DREAMSTIME.COM

Club Lounge in the Mariscal district, where locals go to party.

To clear your head, take the time to ride the cable car to the top of Cruz Loma, from which you can take in views of the city and the valley beyond. It really puts everything in perspective when you’re looking down from 13,000 feet above sea level, and it’s a great way to experience the natural beauty of the area around Quito.

Show your clients your appreciation for history by leaving them a gift of a toquilla hat. While most people call them Panama hats, these elegant straw creations actually come from the town of Manabi on the Ecuadorean coast. The best examples are so fine they can be folded into your pocket, and the level of craftsmanship makes them a gift to remember. Head to Homero Ortega if you want to treat your contacts to the best that money can buy.

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after 5 | CAPE TOWN

African Beat Known for its natural beauty, Cape Town entices at night. BY STEPHEN JERMANOK

ALL THAT JAZZ:

The Crypt is a great place to listen to live jazz music.

PHOTOS: © THE CRYPT

h throug Stroll ’s mpany the Co ady n, a sh Garde ark green p y ished b establ s settler Dutch , to 1650s in the n’s pe Tow a C r e ent nter. city ce

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IF YOU’RE FORTUNATE to be in Cape Town for the First Thursday Art Walk, you’ll quickly understand how vibrant the city center can be after dark. Church Street bustles as the crowd moves from gallery to gallery, viewing contemporary African art while sipping the local Stellenbosch Pinotage and Sauvignon Blanc. A right turn on Bree Street brings you to one of the finest stretches of restaurants in the city. Grab a counter seat at La Parada and stare at the beautiful people as you’re served tasty tapas like grilled chorizo, octopus salad and salt and pepper calamari, best accompanied by a strong mojito.

To appreciate Mother Nature in the Mother City, head to the Sunday summer concerts on the glorious grounds of Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, a UNESCO World Heritage site on the verdant slopes of Table Mountain. Expertly managed by the South African National Biodiversity Institute, the green zone is recognized around the world as a safe haven for rare and threatened species. Throw your blanket down on the velvety grass and get ready to listen to live jazz or classical music as the sun sets over

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the jagged peaks. There’s no setting more serene in the city.

For an after-dinner cocktail, head to one of the venerable hotels in town.

On the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, yachters pull up to the Cape Grace Hotel and head downstairs to the Bascule Bar for a snifter of whiskey.

Over on Kloof Street, the circa-1899 Mount Nelson Hotel is still the most welcoming address in town. You can have your martini indoors at the Planet Bar or on the outdoor patio, surrounded by palms and flowers in bloom year-round.

Just around the corner from the Mount Nelson, Asoka is an Asianinspired bar known for its fresh fruit cocktails and live music. Don’t leave without snapping a photo of your group around the oldest olive tree in Cape Town, continuing to thrive in the courtyard. To listen to live jazz, all the cool cats head to The Crypt, situated under St. George’s Cathedral.

This Catholic church is best known as the building where Archbishop Desmond Tutu led his protests against apartheid.

If you feel like shaking it to electronica mixed with an African beat, head to the recently opened Shimmy Beach Club. On the waterfront, the large, open-air dance floor sits right at the edge of the harbor, overlooking a manmade beach and infinity swimming pool. A good place to dance in the gay quarter is Crew Bar, known for its rotating roster of talented DJs. Next door on Napier Street, the Loft Lounge offers the ideal spot to spark up conversation after meeting that special someone.

neighborhoods | CASCAIS

GONE FISHING:

Fishing traps along Cascais Bay (left), and king prawn at the market (above)

PHOTOS: © CARLOS CAETANO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © LEVAI GABOR | DREAMSTIME.COM

Eco Coast

Po rtu gal

Atlantic Ocean

In Cascais, life revolves around the spectacular Atlantic shore.

CASCAIS LISBON

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HOP ON A BIKE (it’s less than $5 a day to rent one at the station) to explore Lisbon’s former fishing village of Cascais.

Easy access to bikes is one of the ecofriendly features that earned this lively beach enclave the European Union’s coveted QualityCoast Gold award in 2016, naming it one of Europe’s most sustainable coastal tourism destinations.

Green-minded travelers will find more to like about Cascais, from its carefully protected beach dunes to its twice-weekly market dedicated solely to locally produced foods. Rehab of the extensive Cresmina-Guincho coastal dunes began in 2010, and today you can access beaches and follow wooden walkways through 90 restored acres, learning about dune flora and fauna from signboards and at the new Interpretation Center. The self-sufficient

BY BARBARA RADCLIFFE ROGERS

Environmental Interpretation Center at nearby Pedra do Sal is the first Zero Energy building in Portugal.

The dunes begin just beyond the dramatic Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell), a 20-minute walk from central Cascais, where the high Atlantic surf crashes noisily into caves in the jagged cliff. Farther north, at the beautiful sands of Guincho, these waves create one of Europe’s best surfing beaches.

Fishermen gather at their own colorful beach, not far from the daily market where you can watch the catch auctioned off in the late afternoon. Best of all, almost every restaurant in town — and there are plenty — specializes in serving fresh seafood. Choose from traditional or innovative preparations of ocean-fresh sea bass, bream, Cascais sole, sardines, shrimp, crab or crayfish.

These go well with red or white Colares wine, a local DOC whose vineyards are protected by the coastal dunes.

Life in Cascais revolves in one way or another around the sea and the spectacular coast, whether it’s the wave-shaped mosaic of its paving stones, the little Museu do Mar (Museum of the Sea) or the sun-drenched beaches where children build sandcastles.

Martinhal Cascais, set handily between the two championship golf courses of Quinta da Marinha and Oitavos Dunes, is a new luxury hotel that caters especially to children. This makes Cascais a good choice for families, close enough to central Lisbon for easy sightseeing but with the relaxed vibe of a beach town.

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chefs

AT HOME IN THE AIR United Airlines Executive Chef Gerry McLoughlin takes his extensive culinary talents to the sky. BY KIMBERLY KROL

PHOTOS: © UNITED AIRLINES

GT Members Section AS SENIOR MANAGER of food and beverage design and executive chef for United Airlines, Gerry McLoughlin ensures all the culinary options on the carrier taste exceptional, even at 35,000 feet, including those served on the airline’s recently launched Polaris business-class concept. Unique touches in the new premium cabin include chef-designed menus, tempting snack options available throughout the flight and an enticing variety of desserts. Mimosa and Bloody Mary carts will delight passengers on morning flights.

McLoughlin followed completion of his culinary degree with a five-year apprenticeship at Dublin’s iconic The Shelbourne hotel. McLoughlin’s more than 30 years of culinary management experience also took him to Chicago’s well-known The Drake hotel and The Metropolitan Club. As a member of the American Culinary Federation, McLoughlin oversees worldwide menu development for United Airlines.

United Airlines is also the official airline of The Trotter Project, working with Trotter alumni to develop exciting menus for flights. The Trotter Project unites budding talent in the culinary arts and hospitality industries through a variety of mentorship programs.

WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR COOKING/MENUS? One of the best aspects about my job is I have the opportunity to travel the world and taste the cuisines and flavors of the destinations we fly from. Each destination brings new aspects to the table — quite literally — and I enjoy working with the team to incorporate these great new flavors in the onboard menu.

WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE, AND HOW? Chef Charlie Trotter; I can honestly tell you the best meal I’ve ever had was at his restaurant. He took pride in breaking the status quo and was extremely adventurous in his cuisine.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? Hong Kong blends the flavors of East and West with a combination of amazing European foods with the diversity of some absolutely fantastic street food. It’s a beautiful blend of cultures.

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WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? My mother — my first culinary experience was at her apron strings. Her passion was to cook with fresh ingredients and the flavors that resonate from them guided me to search for new ingredients to cook with at home and in the air.

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? People are really moving more toward handheld items they can enjoy on the go — real food with bold flavors where they can broaden their cultural and culinary horizons.

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friends & family | ANTWERP

Food, Fashion and Fun Amble through walkable Antwerp in search of delectable delights.

BY KIMBERLY KROL

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I HAD THREE OBJECTIVES during my two-day stay in Antwerp: Eat a waffle, find the best moules frites and track down a pair of shoes I’d been coveting. Conveniently, Antwerp proved the ideal location to do all three, as the city is the country’s shopping and fashion hub and is known for its food and beverage offerings, as is all of Belgium.

Antwerp also proved the perfect spot to visit with friends. Begin by acquainting yourself with the city, easily navigable by foot. The walkability of Antwerp in part led to the city’s most recent green initiative, enacted Feb. 1, 2017. In an effort to eliminate soot and fine particle pollution, the City of Antwerp now excludes the most polluting vehicles from driving in certain areas, making the city center an official low-emission zone.

In the historic heart of Antwerp a first stop should be the Cathedral of Our Lady, recognizable from many points throughout the city. After 169 years of construction, it’s no surprise the cathedral is the architectural gem of Antwerp, boasting the title of highest Gothic building in the Low Countries. And if you find yourself without time to visit another iconic Antwerp site, Rubenshuis, the former home and studio of artist Peter Paul Rubens and now a museum, you can view some of the artist’s works, including Elevation of the Cross, at the cathedral. Stroll the surroundings to get a feel for Antwerp’s historic charms.

ALL IN A ROW:

Brick houses on Groenplaats, the historic square near Cathedral of Our Lady PHOTO: © SVETLANA DAY | DREAMSTIME.COM

CITY ICONS:

Tourists visit The Grand Place with the Statue of Brabo (left), and shop at Stadsfeestzaal (right).

PHOTOS: © SIRAANAMWONG | DREAMSTIME .COM, © DANIËL LEPPENS | DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING

HILTON ANTWERP OLD TOWN Conveniently located in the heart of historic Antwerp, executive-level guests enjoy the Executive Lounge and private roof terrace with breakfast, complimentary snacks and drinks.

Fashion and Antwerp are intrinsically linked; the city boasts one of the world’s oldest academies providing one of the most renowned fashion degrees. Many of the world’s acclaimed designers and fashionistas have passed through here to design, innovate, shop, study and learn more about the international fashion scene. Enthusiasts can begin their education at ModeMuseum; twice a year, a new exhibition debuts. The museum’s collection boasts 25,000 pieces, and the expositions aim to tell the deeper story behind fashion trends, themes and designers.

Put your education to use at any number of stores in Antwerp’s seven fashion districts. MoMu is located in the aptly named Fashion District, as is Nationalestraat, considered Antwerp’s most fashionable avenue. Start here and base your next decision on your group’s shopping interests.

For antiques, collectibles and the Grand Bazar shopping center, stay in the historic section near Groenplaats. My shoe quest led me to European chains housed in Rococo buildings in the Meir, also the site of Stadsfeestzaal, a shopping area in the restored city festival hall. For a quieter stroll punctuated by boutiques boasting top brands, enjoy the Quartier Latin.

One of my other indulgences was met in Wilde Zee, five pedestrian shopping streets for foodies and those seeking hip, trendy clothing and shoes. I nibbled my waffle while finding the perfect boxes of Belgian chocolate to take

home as gifts.

The Station District offers a myriad of shopping pleasures to suit a variety of tastes. Find Asian specialties in Chinatown or design delights in Designcenter de Winkelhaak. But the true gem of the area, if you will, is the Diamond District. The diamond trade in Antwerp dates back several centuries, and today more than 1,700 diamond companies and four diamond exchanges make their homes here.

The concept stores and design products on showcase in Het Zuid provide a wonderful jumping-off point for your group’s next stops: Antwerp’s world-class museums. Again, a range of options exists to meet any of your friends’ tastes.

We enjoyed “Energy Flash. The Rave Movement,” a special exhibition at M HKA, Museum of Contemporary Art Antwerp. Time did not allow a visit to Museum aan de Stroom, as recognizable for its exterior and architecture as it is for its immense collection of artwork, utensils and other objects, numbering nearly 500,000 items. Consider MAS my No. 1 mission on my return visit to Antwerp.

The Red Star Line Museum tells the story of Antwerp from 1873 to 1935, when the city served as the starting point of a new life for more than 2 million people traveling from Antwerp to New York on Red Star Line. More an archive of reports, testimonies and experiences, the museum continues to seek stories from the time period.

Groenplaats 32 $$$ LEOPOLD HOTEL ANTWERP Eco-conscious travelers should consider Leopold Hotel Antwerp, near popular attractions and boasting Green Key certification and environmentally friendly accommodations.

Quinten Matsijslei 25 $$ RADISSON BLU ASTRID HOTEL With a setting near Antwerp’s fashion and diamond shopping districts, this property offers 247 guestrooms and suites with extended-stay options available.

Koningin Astridplein 7B $$$

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ANTWERP TREATS:

Little Hands from Antwerp chocolates (left), waffles (middle), and moules frites (right) PHOTOS: © VALENTIN LUNG ILLES | DREAMSTIME.COM, © COFKOCOF | DREAMSTIME.COM, © KENSHIN2 | DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING

BRASSERIE DE HERK Tucked away in a picturesque alley near Antwerp’s Oude Koornmarkt and Groenplaats, the authentic eatery is recommended for its classic dish, moules frites.

Reyndersstraat 33 $$ THE JANE Housed in a former chapel, the Michelin 2-starred Jane shines brightly, even amid Antwerp’s other Michelin-starred restaurants. Fittingly, the motto here is, “Food is our religion.”

Paradeplein 1 $$$$ RAS The architecture of this restaurant scenically situated on the Scheldt rivals the beauty of the plated cuisine. Enjoy lunch or dinner either indoors or alfresco and enjoy wonderful views.

Ernest van Dijckkai 37 $$$

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INFO TO GO For a smaller city, Antwerp offers a seemingly endless list of options. Specifically suited to groups or families looking to sample a little bit of everything, the purchase of an Antwerp City Card, available in 24-, 48- or 72-hour increments, entitles users to free admission to a number of the city’s best attractions as well as unlimited access to public transportation.

As I’d already fulfilled my quest to taste a waffle and share moules frites with friends, I was only too pleased to indulge in a few of Antwerp’s local products. To quench my thirst, a visit to De Koninck Brewery was in order. Antwerp’s last remaining city brewery is among its oldest, with the second-oldest trade registry number in the city and an illustrious history cleverly and interestingly told in the brewery’s accompanying museum. End the day with a Bolleke Keuning, served in the signature Bolleke glass.

While shopping — especially for diamonds — can prove many a girl’s best friend in Antwerp, you’re in Belgium, so chocolate can, too. And in Antwerp the specialty is “Little Hands from Antwerp,” considered a symbol of Antwerp as a harbor city — or, as legend has it, a symbol of the triumph of good over evil. Giant Druon Antigoon guarded a bridge on the river Scheldt, demanding a high toll from passing ships. If they refused, he chopped off one hand and threw it in the river. He was finally defeated by a young Roman soldier, Brabo, who threw one of Druon’s hands into the river.

Today the chocolates serve as a celebration of Antwerp’s folklore and the perfect sweet finish to a visit to this small but legendary city.

Brussels Airport is the main gateway for international flights into Belgium. From Brussels, trains depart regularly to Antwerp. The 30-minute ride arrives at Antwerp’s beautiful, cathedral-like Centraal Station, on the edge of the city center. Antwerp also connects via the Thalys high-speed network to Paris and Amsterdam.

Sophisticated design, magnificent architecture, highly personalized service, paired with exceptional dining and amenities – and everything else you would expect from a luxury hotel experience.

Whether you choose to stay at the contemporary adult oriented ME by Meliá, the lush tropical world of Paradisus Resorts, the timeless splendor of Gran Meliá Hotels & Resor ts, or Melia Hotels & Resorts with destinations worldwide – the unexpected is what we do best.

For more information, please contact 1.800.33.MELIA or visit melia.com

bucket list | FRANCE

Go Wild Traipse through the French countryside to sniff out treasured black truffles.

BY BECCA HENSLEY

TRUFFLES. YOU’VE SWOONED OVER THEM, stirred into scrambled eggs, layered in foie gras, thinly sliced atop a pizza (ideally in St. Moritz) and folded into the skin of a perfectly stuffed, oven-baked fowl prepared by a chef looking quite like James Beard. But you haven’t really tasted a truffle until you’ve seized it from the large, meaty, soil-flecked hands of a French truffle hunter, his palm holding the misshapen, dirt clod-like fungus toward you, his other hand wrapped around a prodigious knife — and his proud, truffle-finding canine beaming at his side.

Near Narbonne, in the Languedoc, close enough to the Mediterranean to sense a briny perfume in the air, I join former professional rugby player Gerard Bertrand at one of his family-owned vineyards. To celebrate pruning season, he’s invited some friends to frolic on the scrubby, limestone-flecked, garrigue landscape where herbs like rosemary and lavender grow wild. His vineyards, neatly rowed and flanked with cedar and oak trees, draw the eye. But as we roam the hilly expanses with Bertrand’s vineyard-ensconced hotel, Château L’Hospitalet, just behind us and the sea visible on the horizon, we aren’t at this moment obsessed with wine or nipping vines at all.

Rather, following a dog and his keeper, Philippe Barriere (the Languedoc’s official truffle inspector, who sports the good looks of Gaston from Beauty and the Beast), we clamber across hill and dale. At last the dog, deftly trained to root out mature truffles, stops at a tree. As we approach, he barks maniacally and starts to dig. Within seconds, he unearths a black truffle the size of a lemon and drops it into Barriere’s hand, exchanging it for a treat. “We

CULINARY DELIGHT: Nature’s artwork, the truffle, close up PHOTO: © NAKACHE.D - CDT LOT

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had to stop using pigs here in France,” Barriere says. “They crave truffles so much, we found they’d rarely relinquish their treasure. Dogs just want their biscuit!”

Wide-eyed, taking in the musky smell of the truffle, imagining its umami delights, I empathize with the truffle lust of those truffle-seeking pigs.

The use of animals is also preferable to another practice: raking. Hunters would use iron rakes and rip out several feet from the tree trunk, an indiscriminate practice that damages the forest floor and ecology. Additionally, every year the French Federation of Truffle Growers commits to planting at least 300,000 trees they hope will yield truffles, both an environmental boost and an aid to help the declining French truffle industry, which some critics claim could be a result of climate change.

Like nature’s artwork, truffles, subterranean tuber-like mushrooms often found six to eight inches beneath the ground near tree roots, come in all shapes and sizes. Since antiquity, people have attempted to domesticate them. But, generally, truffles have a mind of their own and grow when and how they like. Most prized, more subtle in flavor, considered an aphrodisiac and a favorite of royalty in Renaissance times, the black truffle hails from France (and some other parts of Europe). Also delicious though stronger in taste, the white truffle remains a standout of Italian cuisine; it’s found in the Piedmont and Alba regions. (You may have heard about the 4.16-pound white one unearthed in Italy last year that sold at Sotheby’s for around $61,000 to a phone bidder from China.) Garnering upwards of $600 a pound, black truffles, like the one Barriere slices for me here, are meant to be used sparingly — though I believe I could eat the whole stone-like chunk if given the chance. I’m sure that wouldn’t be prudent.

Back at Bertrand’s hotel, we stand in the kitchen, our found truffles piled on the counter like black gold. Exhilarated by our efforts — though the dog did all the work and Barriere authenticated the fungi — we huddle, sipping Bertrand’s organic wine, an elegant blend of Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. Barriere washes the truffles then slices them paper-thin.

He hands me one, telling me to drizzle it with olive oil and sprinkle it with sea salt. I nibble it plain first. It’s crisp, like an apple.

It tastes the way rain smells. When I pair the next slice with Bertrand’s Domaine de Cigalus White, I feel l’art de vivre like a serenade to my soul. Oh, yes. This is the truffle life.

In France, the nexus of truffle-dom lies in the Périgord — today known as the Dordogne, a region in southwest France. Truffles grow abundantly, too, in Provence and the Languedoc. Gourmands won’t want to miss the field-to-fork fun of traipsing through the countryside with a truffle hunter and his dog. Though a truffle quest has never been a touristic activity, many hotels in the region can arrange the adventure, and some outfitters offer an organized truffle outing. Try Les Pastras, an organic Provençal farm and culinary tour company that conducts truffle-hunting tours in summer and winter seasons, with a grand finale tasting.

BLACK GOLD: A truffle-finding dog takes a break (above), and a truffle hunter shows off his treasure (left).

PHOTOS: © CHARLES KNOBLICH | DREAMSTIME .COM, © DOMINIQUE VIET - CRT MIDI-PYRÉNÉES

INFO TO GO

Visitors to Provence can fly into a variety of airports, including Avignon (AXN) or Nice (NCE).

For the Languedoc, Montpellier (MPL) provides easy access to the region, and for the Dordogne, Toulouse (TLS) allows for super connections.

Some travelers enjoy taking France’s efficient trains. A fast one, the TGV, will take you from Paris Charles De Gaulle Airport straight to Avignon.

Some people use th eir as well on clues such

sniffers to locate tr uffles,

as patches of bald

relying

or burned-looking landscape at the fo ot of towering oak trees.

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kicking back | THAI

ISLANDS

Treasured Islands Discover hidden gems on an eco-friendly journey of Thailand’s isles. BY KRISTY ALPERT

SERENITY AT SEA:

Canoeing in the waters off the Thai islands PHOTO: © KRISTY ALPERT

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AS I FLOATED just above the water in a three-person sea canoe, I found myself grinning with every ripple and splash from the Andaman Sea. All around us rose clusters of towering karst islands lined with soft, sandy beaches and stacked high in dense jungle terrain. Each island was surrounded by a gently swelling sea of sapphire water that would act as the passageway for my excursion on John Gray’s Sea Canoe guided tour through Thailand’s most famous islands.

The scene was straight out of a movie, the rugged outcroppings reminding me of my favorite scenes from movies like The

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Man with the Golden Gun and Cutthroat Island. I was drifting off into a daydream of shootouts and pirate chases when my guide yelled, “Get down!”

The command shook me awake just in time to realize we were heading straight for a hole no bigger than a manhole cover. I collapsed backward into the canoe seconds before the bow entered the small crevice.

My breath echoed off the jagged rocks pointing only inches above my face as we glided through the narrow passageway, heading for a tiny emerald light that glimmered at the end of the tunnel. The cave opened up to an emerald lagoon where I spent the day swimming in chest-deep water, warming myself on a private beach and drifting back into my island fantasies.

It’s no wonder the landscape of this part of Thailand inspired so many thrillers and action films. The islands teem with secret lagoons, clandestine caves and remote beaches begging to be discovered. Environmentalist and entrepreneur John Gray found many of the tidal napes and hongs back in 1989, and today he leads

visitors on an eco-friendly journey that explores the hidden gems of the islands. His tours launch from one of the largest and most famous of the Thai islands, Phuket, just miles from the luxurious Sri Panwa resort.

Like many of the lagoons and private beaches that make the Thai islands unique, Sri Panwa is a treasure for kicking back in luxury. Despite the 52 villas, the hillside location and discreet white-glove service make guests feel they are the only residents on this perch overlooking the Andaman Sea. The resort spreads across 40 acres, and most villas offer uninterrupted sunset or sunrise views over the sea. A 40-foot infinity-edge swimming pool wraps around glass-enclosed bedrooms with sliding glass doors for easy access to the seductive waters.

With 10 restaurant experiences, guests can sample traditional Thai recipes at Baba Soul Food, dine hibachiside on Japanese food at Baba Iki or try their hand at making Southern Thai recipes at the Baba Cooking School. The resort’s crown jewel is the exclusive Baba Nest rooftop bar, featuring 360-degree panoramic views of the island and the surrounding sea and lined by an infinity-edge pool that magnifies the sunset for even more stunning views and pictures. The bar offers top-shelf spirits, wines and Champagnes; and with only 12 tables available per night, it’s best to make a reservation at least one month in advance.

Phuket is the first pick for yachters or anyone looking to explore the other islands in the area, as it offers some of the best resorts and nightlife along with multitudes of boats ready to jettison visitors to the nearby islands of Racha, Maiton, Phi Phi, Coral, Lone and more in just 15–40 minutes.

The Tourism Authority of Thailand remains committed to social and environmental sustainability in long-term planning of hospitality and tourism development throughout the country. In the southern region, the Green Island Project seeks the active involvement of all tourism stakeholders to maintain the beauty and nature of this tropical paradise.

Thailand boasts more than 503 islands, each offering its own adventures and flavor. While the coconut tree-lined island of Koh Samui is famous for its coconut curries and cocktails (mixed with local rum from the Magic Alambic Rum Distillery), the fisherman-friendly shores of the Phi Phi Islands supply the ingredients for local dishes like gaeng som pla, a spicy and sour soup locals

Thai of the s l a c Lo dishes e their k i l s island icy ys: sp wo wa t d e v ser y. To ly spic l a e r or atable re pal o m a r opt fo ishes rder d o , n o i vers eaning het,’ m ‘mai p icy.’ ‘not sp

LODGING

FOUR SEASONS RESORT KOH SAMUI THAILAND This dreamy resort overlooks the Gulf of Siam, where guests spend the day adventuring around the waters before returning to luxuriate in the hotel’s Secret Garden Spa. 219 Moo 5, Angthong, Koh Samui $$$$$ SIX SENSES YAO NOI Eco-friendly meets luxury at this retreat where the breakfast buffet features farm-fresh eggs from, quite possibly, Thailand’s happiest chickens (the resort plays jazz to lighten the mood and improve their yolks).

56 Moo 5 Tambol, Koh Yao Noi, Amphur Koh Yao, Phang Nga $$$$$ SRI PANWA This family-owned and -managed resort features 52 villas and is home to the worldfamous Baba Nest rooftop bar.

88 Moo 8, Sakdidej Road, Vichit, Muang, Phuket $$$$

make with fish fresh from the sea.

Fresh is an understatement when eating in Thailand, especially in the islands where most of the ingredients are grown locally or caught just hours before they wind up on the plate. Fresh fruit is abundant, and the islands are famous for tropical fruits like rambutan, custard apples, langsart and mangosteen. Mangos are a treat when in season, January to June, when they appear in everything

COLORS OF NATURE:

Thai cuisine (top); a coral reef, Racha Noi (middle); and an incredible violet sunset, Koh Samui

PHOTOS: © KRISTY ALPERT, © BENNYMARTY | DREAMSTIME.COM, © VALENTIN AYUPOV | DREAMSTIME.COM

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ISLAND LIFE:

Viking Cave with birds’ nests, Koh Phi Phi Leh (top), and a hammock on Ko Yao Noi (bottom) PHOTOS: © BEIJING HETUCHUANGYI IMAGES CO., LTD. | DREAMSTIME.COM, © TUAYAI | DREAMSTIME.COM

INFO TO GO

International and domestic flights enter Krabi International Airport (KBV), Phuket International Airport (HKT) and Samui International Airport (USM).

From there visitors can take small domestic charter planes, charter boats or resort shuttle boats to the smaller islands.

DINING from fresh mango smoothies to mango sticky rice desserts.

Although it’s still open to debate as to which island produces the best tom yam gung (spicy prawn soup), what unites all the islands is an undying love for spicy food. Southern Thailand, especially the islands, is famous for its fiery curries and fresh fish dishes. The warm waters swim with multiple varieties of fish along with giant lobsters; plump crabs; fresh mussels; and an abundance of squid, prawns and scallops.

Each takes its turn in the starring role in the aromatic and spicy dishes of the South.

Fishing is big business in the islands, where big game fishing trips depart regularly from the stocked shores of Phuket and anglers have free reign in the waters around Koh Samui. There record catches include a giant Mekong catfish weighting 210 pounds and an arapaima weighing 380 pounds. Koh Samui is also home to Fisherman’s Village in Bophu and two of the most famous waterfalls in Thailand: Na Muang and Hin Lad. Koh Chang, Thailand’s second-largest island, incorporates more than 48 smaller islands off the east coast of the country in the Sea of Trat. Visitors flock to the western portion for easy access to shops, nightclubs and restaurants, but clued-in travelers know the island’s true charm lives in the east, in the pristine shores and secluded coves of Zion Beach. But even these beaches can’t compare with the stunning shoreline surrounding the Phi Phi Islands. Many films were born on this chain of six islands, using the famous Maya Bay Koh Phi Phi Leh as the setting for movies like The Beach, Stealth and Cutthroat Island. Phi Phi also features some of Thailand’s most amazing caves, such as Viking Cave, a

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ACQUA RESTAURANT European and Thai flavors fuse at this fine-dining restaurant on Ko Phi Phi Don. Try salmon steak served with lemongrass sauce.

125/18 Moo 7, Ao Nang, Krabi, Koh Phi Phi Don $$ BABA SOUL FOOD Enjoy traditional home-cooked Thai dishes served family-style in this relaxed yet chic setting inside the Sri Panwa resort.

popular swiftlet nest hunting ground (used in bird’s nest soup, the nests fetch $2,500 per kilo). On the walls of the cave you can see authentic drawings and markings of what resembles a Viking ship.

Anyone looking for a more immersive experience with the smaller islands can opt for a luxurious stay on a hideout like Ko Yao Noi, where the Six Senses Resort created a paradise on the hills of this petite island. This sustainabilityfocused resort not only re-mineralizes and purifies its own water on site (it recently opened a water bar), but it also grows produce for its restaurants and in-villa dining menus.

It is working toward a zero waste rating.

The warmth of the Thai islands doesn’t stop with its sunny beaches and balmy waters. The spicy food, hot nightlife and warm smiles from locals make this region of Thailand perfect for kicking back during a much-needed work vacation.

Sri Panwa, 88 Moo 8, Sakdidej Road, Vichit, Muang, Phuket $$$ SILK RESTAURANT & BAR This award-winning resort restaurant serves traditional Thai dishes and upscale Western staples in an elegant, modern setting.

Andara Resort and Villas, 15 Moo 6, Kamala Beach, Kathu, Phuket $$$

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lgbtq

BRIGHT LIGHTS:

Las Vegas Strip at night (left), and Cher performing at Park Theater (below) PHOTOS: © TSUI SHAN SO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ANDREW MACPHERSON /PARK THEATER

Bet on Vegas Sin City boasts a jackpot of activities for LGBTQ travelers. BY MARK CHESNUT Gaming, indeed, is a big draw in Las Vegas — as is the city’s varied live entertainEVER SINCE THE FIRST glittering marquee rose above ment. Ricky Martin, among the newest performers on the Strip, performs at the new the Strip, Las Vegas has been a legendary destination Park Theater at Monte Carlo in April, June, July and September of this year. Other for business and leisure travel. And in more recent gay-popular singers appearing this year include Jennifer Lopez, Cher, Mariah Carey and decades, it’s carved a reputation as a growing hot spot Britney Spears. for LGBTQ travelers as well.

Nearly every Las Vegas hotel is LGBTQ-friendly, including the MGM Grand and the “You might think that a town called Sin City Encore at Wynn Las Vegas, both members of the International Gay & Lesbian Travel wouldn’t live up to its own hype,” said Jim Werner, Association. Also popular are the Hard Rock co-owner, Fagabond.com, an Hotel, especially close to the Fruit Loop, and the LGBTQ travel site. “Well, Luxor, which has a weekly LGBTQ pool party Las Vegas is just as surreal as ‘You might think that a town called Sin during the summer called Temptation Sundays. its high-reaching nickname.

City wouldn’t live up to its own hype.’

For those tying the knot, Las Vegas ramped up Cher impersonators. Pool Jim Werner, co-owner, Fagabond.com, an LGBTQ travel site a variety of same-sex destination wedding options. parties. Feather boas. This is A company called Viva Las Vegas, for example, is Vegas on a normal day.” among the companies offering decidedly destinationMuch of the liveliest appropriate “Elvis weddings,” complete with a performing impersonator. nightlife takes place along the so-called Fruit Loop, Top annual LGBTQ events in the city include Las Vegas Pride, which takes place where a club called Piranha holds weekly events, in October with a night parade and festival. Sin City Shootout, billed as the largest including after-hours parties that start at 6 a.m., as annual LGBTQ sporting event in the world, takes place in January, attracting some well as VIP packages with top-shelf liquor. FreeZone, 9,000 participants for 25 different sport competitions, from arm wrestling to water polo. meanwhile, hosts events including talent contests and To be sure, not every activity in Las Vegas is about “sin.” But there are certainly lots of music bingo and — like many bars in Las Vegas — temptations. has gaming facilities on site.

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airport update

Fast Forward Changi International Airport looks to the future of high-tech innovations. BY NICOLE QUASTÉ ASIA PACIFIC AIRPORTS have experienced significant increases in traffic in recent years, and Singapore’s Changi International Airport is no exception. As the primary civilian airport for Singapore, a popular destination for business and leisure, the airport is now the world’s sixthbusiest for international traffic.

In 2016 Changi handled 58.7 million passengers, a growth of 5.9 percent from 2015 and an all-time high for the airport.

The month of December alone saw a total of 5.68 million passengers, up 7.2 percent from December 2015. In addition to the increase in passenger numbers, aircraft movements are 4.8 percent higher than last year.

Ninety percent of the growth in Changi’s passenger traffic is attributed to routes to Southeast Asia, Northeast Asia and Oceania; Jakarta (CGK) was named busiest route for the airport in 2016, followed by Kuala Lumpur (KUL, SZB) and Bangkok (DMK, BKK).

To accommodate these rapidly growing numbers and increased demand, the airport is making headway on several expansion projects. The end of 2016 saw completion of the two-story passenger Terminal 4, including the development of two multistory parking lots, a two-story taxi holding area and three car and pedestrian bridges. The terminal is scheduled to open in the second half of 2017.

This year the airport will implement a new airfield lighting control and monitoring system by Honeywell to improve aircraft movement efficiency and safety. The multimilliondollar, multi-year contract is intended to safely and efficiently accommodate increasing aircraft traffic. The project is part of expansion efforts at the airport, including the new terminal and the development of a three-runway system. The new lighting and monitoring system will cover all three runways, taxiways and taxi lanes.

Also in 2017, Changi will implement Fast and Seamless Travel initiatives to enhance passenger experience and operational efficiency. This includes self-service technologies and automated options for check-in, bag drop, immigration clearance and boarding.

Its FAST initiative isn’t the only high-tech activation Changi will put into place. Due to its high passenger traffic, Changi also serves as a valuable test bed for local companies to conceptualize and pilot innovative tech solutions out of Singapore in a new program called The Changi Airport Living Lab. The lab, announced in January, is a $50 million program in partnership with

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UPGRADES:

Changi International Airport control tower, together with the new inter-terminals transit Skytrain and transit hotel (above), and Enchanted Garden (left) PHOTOS: © EVOLUTION1088 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © TANG90246 | DREAMSTIME.COM

the Singapore Economic Development Board aimed at driving innovation in robotics. The program’s goal is to discover new solutions to keep the airport modern and competitive.

According to a recent statement from Lee Seow, CEO, Changi Airport Group, the airport looks forward to continued growth this year with several new opportunities in emerging markets within Africa and Eastern Europe. These emerging markets and Changi’s innovative efforts in technology, customer service and airport operations will likely yield a bright future for the forward-thinking airport.

CHANGI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT changiairport.com

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health

Healthy Pets, Healthy People Prevention is key to avoid cat-scratch disease.

BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN

CAT-SCRATCH DISEASE, or CSD, is spread by cats to humans. It is a bacterial infection caused by the bacterium Bartonella henselae, found worldwide. The incidence of CSD appears to have a seasonal relationship, possibly due to the mating behavior of the cat flea during certain times of the year.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention released a report in August 2016 estimating the prevalence of cat-scratch disease in the United States at 12,000 people diagnosed with the illness, with 500 requiring hospitalization per year. The CDC analyzed national health insurance claim databases from 2005 to 2013 for patients age 65 and younger. The incidence of CSD was highest among people who live in Southern states and among children 5 to 18 years old.

Cats can become infected with B. henselae from flea bites and flea dirt (droppings) getting into their wounds. Cats pick up the infected flea dirt under their nails and between their teeth by scratching and biting at the fleas. Fighting with infected cats can also infect healthy cats.

The disease spreads when an infected cat licks a person’s open wound or bites or scratches a person hard enough to break the surface of the skin. The germ can also spread when infected cats lick at wounds or scabs you may have. About three to 14 days after exposure, a mild infection can occur at the site of the wound. The infected area may appear swollen and red with round, raised lesions. There may also be pus, and the area may feel warm or painful. A person

with CSD may have a fever, headache, poor appetite and exhaustion. Later, the person’s lymph nodes closest to the original scratch or bite may become swollen, tender or painful.

About 40 percent of cats carry B. henselae at some time in their lives. Most infected cats show no signs of illness, but on rare occasions this disease can cause inflammation of the heart, making cats very sick with labored breathing. B. henselae infection may also develop in the cat’s mouth, urinary system or eyes. Your veterinarian may find inflammation in some of your cat’s other organs.

Kittens younger than 1 year are more likely to have B. henselae infection and are also more likely to scratch and bite while they play and learn how to attack prey.

Although rare, CSD can cause serious complications in humans, affecting the brain, eyes, heart or other internal organs.

These rare complications, which may require intensive treatment, are more likely to occur in children younger than 5 years and people with weakened immune systems.

Prevention is essential in dealing with CSD. Keep your cat’s nails trimmed. Once monthly, administer a flea product (topical or oral) approved by your veterinarian; over-thecounter flea remedies may not be safe for cats or humans. Check for fleas and flea dirt by using a flea comb on your cat. Control fleas in your home by vacuuming frequently and contacting a pest-control agent if necessary.

Schedule routine veterinary health checkups for your cat. Keep cats indoors to decrease their contact with fleas and to prevent

them from fighting with stray or potentially infected animals. Wash your hands with soap and running water after playing with your cat or handling cat feces when cleaning out the litter box, especially if you live with young children or people with weakened immune systems. Since cats less than 1 year of age are more likely to have CSD and spread it to people, persons with a weakened immune system should adopt healthy cats older than 1 year.

Avoid playing roughly with your pets because they may scratch and bite. Do not allow cats to lick open wounds. Avoid cats infested with fleas. Do not pet or touch stray or feral cats, especially when traveling, since you may not have access to immediate health care resources. Teach kids to avoid stray or unfamiliar cats to reduce their exposure to the bacteria.

If a cat injures you or a family member, wash the bite and scratches well with soap and running water. Contact your health care provider if you notice any symptoms of CSD or infection. If you suspect someone caught CSD from your family pet, don’t worry that your cat will have to be euthanized. Talk with your veterinarian about how to handle the problem.

People who have a healthy immune system should recover fully from CSD without treatment. In people with a weakened immune system, treatment with antibiotics usually leads to recovery. The best way to avoid CSD is to avoid rough play with cats that could lead to scratches or bites.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport In 1949 the airport was known as Atlanta Municipal Airport (left). In 1961 the airport opened what was then the largest single terminal in the world, a structure that cost $21 million and could accommodate 6 million travelers (top right). The airport’s current name honors two former Atlanta mayors: William B. Hartsfield and Maynard H. Jackson. Today it holds the title of busiest passenger airport in the United States (bottom right).

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