September 2019 Global Traveler

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September 2019

ALMATY p. 64 GORILLA TREKKING p. 72 LOS ANGELES p. 60 PANAMA CITY p. 54 PHILADELPHIA p. 66 RIVIERA MAYA p. 68 ST. PETERSBURG p. 62

MEDITERRANEAN MAGIC Dive into big fun in the tiny island nation of Malta . p. 74

IF YOU’VE SEEN ONE TAHITIAN ISLAND YOU’VE SEEN, WELL, ONE TAHITIAN ISLAND.

This isn’t just one Tahitian island aboard a boutique cruise – it’s six. It’s not just fire dancers, but a Bora Bora Celebration feast on a private motu under the stars.

It’s not just a cruise ship, but a ship with four sails carrying only 148 guests and a complimentary Watersports Platform. It’s not just shore excursions, but jet ski and heritage tours that have been experienced firsthand and selected by our product managers. This is how you experience Tahiti 180 degrees from ordinary.

Call your travel advisor, or Windstar Cruises at 866-248-3525. WindstarCruises.com

letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

FAST FORWARD HOW IS IT I’M WELCOMING you to our September 2019 issue? This year surely has flown, and I recently had a conversation with someone about the year 2020, and they remarked that it seemed like businesses with long-range goals have been planning for 2020 for years — and now here it is, just around the corner. I couldn’t agree more; 2020 felt like a milestone, something to plan and achieve for, and in the blink of an eye, we’re on its cusp.

I’m currently planning for my own life event in the year 2020, my wedding! On May 30, 2020, I’ll be walking down the aisle at the Waterfront at Silver Birches, on Lake Wallenpaupack, in Pennsylvania’s Poconos. The location combined my fiancé’s love for the area SIDE BY SIDE: (his family has had a cabin there his entire life) Kimberly Krol with her fiancé, Scott and my desire for a mini-destination wedding PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL that incorporates my love of travel.

Speaking of travel, this issue includes my article on Valencia, Spain, which happens to be the first international city Scott and I visited together.

There we learned to cook paella, walked along the Mediterranean Sea, dined at a Hemingway favorite and more. I reminisced about the trip while crafting this month’s article, and it led me to start thinking more closely about another important trip coming up: our honeymoon.

My list of places I still want to visit is long, but when it comes to deciding where to honeymoon, so many other factors come into play — do we want relaxation or adventure? How long do we have to be away? Should we travel immediately or wait? How far do we want to travel? The questions spin in my head next to flower choices, save the dates and wedding dress options. Lightbulb moment: Why not ask you, our dedicated readers and clients, for suggestions, as you’re some of the most intrepid and savvy travelers I know? Please email me your suggestions at kim@globaltravelerusa.com Where do we head this month? In addition to Valencia, we visit St. Petersburg, Almaty, Uganda, Panama City, Riviera Maya, Malta, Los Angeles and Philadelphia. We recap our Leisure Lifestyle Awards with some party pics and announce the winners of the 2019 Wherever Awards, distributed by our sister web publication whereverfamily.com. Join us next month as we take a look at haunted tourism in anticipation of Halloween.

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ERICH J. MARTIN erich.martin@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE holly.riddle@globaltravelerusa.com Intern ANDREW MELNICK intern@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

KRISTY ALPERT MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER JACK GUY ALLIE MOORE

PATRICK ADAMS KRISTY ALPERT RON BERNTHAL BOB CURLEY MARLENE GOLDMAN TIM LEFFEL ALLIE MOORE

ete bios, For compl usa.com altraveler visit glob

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD,

me of L.A. has so i best sush America’s onee th y tr chefs; tarred Michelin-s the twoShunji or ushi Ginza starred S arn Le . ra Onode t Los more abou page 60.

Angeles on

TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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letter from the publisher ® ®

AWARDS AND ACCOLADES I AM WRITING THIS from 35,000 feet, on the way to Chicago for The Trazees awards. Like the annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards presented every December by Global Traveler, The Trazees are voted on by the readers of trazeetravel.com and offer a unique insight into millennial travelers, those NEW NEST: now under the age of 40. Make sure Francis at the new home of Advisory Board member Joe Pfender on the Delaware Canal in Yardley, Pennsylvania ... with chicken coop you check out the November The Trazee PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER Book, which will feature the recap of our event held at the beautiful Claridge House in Chicago.

In this September issue we recap the Leisure Lifestyle Awards held at the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills on May 16. Due to potential inclement weather in Los Angeles (it never rains in Southern California), we moved the event from the rooftop pool area to the ballroom. Entertainment was tops, with dancers and performers from many areas capped off by an athletic Irish dance troupe. It was a fantastic event, and I was assured the honeymoon suite was not directly below our dancers as they performed a river dance shoe-slamming routine, sure to jar the plaster on the lower levels. Kudos to our repeat award winners and those taking our special achievement recognitions.

Turn to page 34 of this issue to see the results from the Wherever Awards, the annual voting from the family travel readers of whereverfamily.com. Family travel is vitally important for achieving a global perspective and helps bring along the next generation of travelers and frequent flyers. At whereverfamily.com, we support a broad definition of family: If you consider yourself a family, so do we. That includes multigenerational families, families with children and families who are partners (with or without children).

Cross-population among all our FX brands represents a foundation of our beliefs, as baby boomers are interested in what millennials think, and family travel can be experienced at any age. Soon we will relaunch globaltravelerusa.com and whereverfamily.com to coincide with some of the best thinking from a recent redesign of trazeetravel.com. A cornerstone of the redesign is a super navigation bar at the top of each website so readers can pull articles from all our brands based on their destination of choice.

Join us Sept. 23 at the City Vineyard in New York for the Wherever Awards and discover the best in family travel. It will prove a fun and interesting recognition of those catering to the family market.

ADVERTISING Publisher/CEO FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER tel 267 364 5811 ext 200 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Vice President RICHARD T. EVANS tel 267 364 5811 ext 203 | dick.evans@globaltravelerusa.com Executive Vice President, Associate Publisher CARLY ALLEN tel 267 495 6287 | carly.allen@globaltravelerusa.com Director of Sales BILL LODZINSKI tel 267 364 5811 ext 205 | bill.lodzinski@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive STEPHANIE MAKOWSKI tel 267 364 5811 ext 211 | stephanie.makowski@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive CHRISTOPHER SAGER tel 267 364 5811 ext 204 | chris.sager@globaltravelerusa.com Production & Advertising Coordinator YASSER OGANDO tel 267 884 1650 | yasser.ogando@globaltravelerusa.com

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contents

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FEATURES 34 Wherever Awards 2019 Whereverfamily.com, the trusted travel source for the modern family, announces the winners of the second annual Wherever Awards.

38 Leisure Lifestyle Awards 2019 Global Traveler honors the leaders in leisure travel with a grand celebration.

50 MICE Valencia Valencia attracts leading events from around the world.

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SEPTEMBER 2019

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

ON THE COVER

54 Destination One: Panama City Panama City grows ever higher, more dynamic and well-connected.

60 Stateside: Loss Angeles Los Angeles picks up the pace with new developments and activities.

62 9–5: St. Petersburg, Russia St. Petersburg emerges as a top cultural and business destination.

64 After 5: Almaty Kazakhstan’s hot spot elevates the entertainment with live music and rooftop bars.

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September 2019

ALMATY p. 64 GORILLA TREKKING p. 72 LOS ANGELES p. 60 PANAMA CITY p. 54 PHILADELPHIA p. 66 RIVIERA MAYA p. 68 ST. PETERSBURG p. 62

MEDITERRANEAN MAGIC Dive into big fun in the tiny island nation of Malta . p. 74

COVER PHOTO: YACHTS AND LEISURE BOATS AT THE BLUE LAGOON OF COMINO ISLAND, MALTA PHOTO: © CHAVDAR CHERNEV - DREAMSTIME.COM

contents

September 2019

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LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

21 Technology 22 Wine & Spirits 23 Wealth 24 Tours 26 Spas 28 Golf 30 Chefs 32 Cruising 78 LGBTQ+ 80 Health

10 Mail Call 13 News 16 Reviews 20 One on One Claridge House 79 Airport Update 82 Preview

66 Neighborhoods: Philadelphia South Philadelphia blends homey vibes with vibrant new energy.

68 Friends & Family: Riviera Maya Combining business with pleasure is a breeze in Riviera Maya.

72 Bucket List: Gorilla Trekking Meet the majestic mountain gorillas of Africa in their natural habitat.

74 Kicking Back: Malta Dive into big fun in the tiny island nation of Malta.

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FX E X P R E S S

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material.

AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 © 2019 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

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THANK YOU, EVERYONE. On behalf of all of us at Seabourn, on board and ashore, a sincere thank you for recognizing us in the 2019 Global Traveler Leisure Lifestyle Awards for Best Cruise Line Dining and Best Cruise Ship Spas.

Intimate ships | Award-winning cuisine | Open bars & fine wines | All suite

EXTRAORDINARY WORLDS

mail call Q&A WITH CARLY ALLEN, EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

Q&A WITH ANGELIQUE PLATAS, ASSOCIATE EDITOR

In our June issue, our executive vice president and associate publisher, Carly Allen, discussed weekend solo trip ideas. She mentioned her recent wellness inspiration to head to Sedona, or pack a bag and use her miles for a trip to Maui. This inspired the questions: Have you traveled solo? What are your favorite solo trip destinations?

What’s your favorite way to celebrate the end of summer? Do you send off the season with a classic beach cookout or go a bit further and plan a family trip? Any new inspiration from our WhereverFamily award winners?

BRENDAN WILLARD, via email I traveled solo to Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia last year, but I have Japan and Indonesia on my list for this year.

CRAIG DONALDSON, via email Solo travel is a regular occurrence for me. My work requires it, and when you become so accustomed to traveling a certain way, it’s just easier to keep up with traveling alone. You meet new people and get to travel at your own pace, where and when you want.

REAGAN ASHBURN, via email

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

LETTER TO THE PUBLISHER In the July 2019 issue, Francis X. Gallagher mentioned his upcoming birthday (October) in his publisher’s letter. He discussed a few vacation ideas to celebrate, including cruise excursions and luxury dude ranches. One reader wrote in with a suggestion: I just finished reading the July version of Global Traveler and learned of your upcoming birthday. I think you would enjoy golfing at the Broadmoor in Colorado Springs, which hosts some prestigious tournaments.

And then stay at its Cloud Camp lodge at the top of Cheyenne Mountain. It is the most amazing lodge I’ve stayed at. My wife, Celeste, took me there for Father’s Day last year, and I was so impressed that we booked a follow-up business meeting a few months later.

Lastly, writing you from the MS Paul Gauguin — we’re in the

final day of our Tahiti & Society Islands cruise. Surprisingly easy to get here with United’s nonstop from San Francisco (SFO).

TOM AND CELESTE LINHARD, via email

THAILAND’S NEW TRAVEL INSURANCE POLICY In our July 10 issue of eFlyer Asia, we discussed the compul-

sory travel insurance coming to Thailand. This premium requires travelers to purchase travel insurance prior to their arrival or they will be forced to pay a fee. Some avid travelers and readers wrote in: Are you sure the “hefty premium” of 20 Thai baht is less than $1? If that is, in fact, the premium, it is certainly much

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler.

We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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I find myself traveling solo on nearly every other trip. It normally begins as a business trip and becomes an extended weekend away. My most recent was Rome, but I love Berlin and Las Vegas.

Weather-wise, September is a fun transitional month. With one last summer holiday, lingering sunshine-filled days and enough chill in the air to get excited about the fall, September proves a perfect time to get in one final “summer” vacation.

mail call less expensive than buying travel insurance from a U.S. provider, and I would certainly take advantage of that. So to answer your question, the insurance requirements would not deter a visit to this wonderful country.

FYI, I have been to Thailand 12 times and always for at least a month.

RUSTY CARLSON, via email Requiring travel insurance will likely impact how often we visit Thailand. We usually visit Thailand two to three times a year. We are in the United States.

HAROLD HERMAN, via email

RETURN TO SENDER In our July 17 issue of eFlyer USA, we reported on the unaccompanied minor who was almost flown to the wrong country by United Airlines. One reader wrote in with some thoughts: Back in another century — 1986, actually — before the ubiquity of mobile phones, my 11-year-old son was flying from Los Angeles to Newark on deservedly defunct People Express, a pioneer no-frills carrier whose low fares bought (as I discovered) low-quality service.

When he did not arrive in late afternoon as scheduled, I asked one of the People people why. She had no information for me. When I asked her to call or electronically contact LAX, she said there was no way to do so because the company did not have the necessary equipment (even a telephone!). Eventually, by reaching a California family member, I learned that despite getting to LAX early, my boy had been bumped (with no compensation offered; only a seat on the next flight, a red-eye).

After hanging around EWR much of the day, I went to a hotel to await the early-morning arrival.

Moral No. 1: You get what you pay for.

Moral No. 2: Even low-fare airlines must deliver decent service lest the market impose the “capital punishment” suffered by People Express.

BERNIE WEISS, via email It seems these airlines are pretty careless and disorganized when it comes to unaccompanied minor travelers. This happened on Frontier last year, and with several teens.

LINDA SEDGEWICK, via email

9–5 | CAPE TOWN

Captivating Cape Town This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world.

You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet.

Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle.

Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25).

The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million.

Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center.

Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background.

Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300.

While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

globaltravelerusa.com JANUARY 2018

CONNECT WITH GT GT is more than just a magazine. If you

have a computer or smartphone, you can connect with GT.

GT APP Available for iPhone and iPad, the GT app lets you search archives, read the current issue, bookmark favorites and more. Download the app today from the App Store.

globaltravelerusa.com Visit our website to access past and present articles, reports, guides, hot travel links and deals and video interviews, as well as forms for subscribing to the magazine and our eFlyer newsletters.

WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS? Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from touring the Suzhou Grand Canal in China to visiting historic ships in Baltimore.

PARTICIPATE IN VOTING Visit our website to vote for your favorites in the 2019 GT Tested Reader Survey.

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globaltravelerusa.com/blog

news American Airlines Abandons Chicago– China Connections

SKYTRAX: WORLD’S BEST AIRLINES

Skytrax released the results of its annual World Airline Awards, and this year Qatar Airways ousted Singapore Airlines for the top spot. Qatar Airways, which last won the title of World’s Best Airline in 2017, also won World’s Best Business Class, World’s Best Business Class Seat and Best Airline in the Middle East.

Coming in at second place this year is Singapore Airlines, which also won World’s Best Cabin Crew, World’s Best First Class, World’s Best First Class Seat and Best Airline in Asia.

The rest of the top 10 of the World’s Best Airlines features mostly Asia-based companies: All Nippon Airways, Cathay Pacific, Emirates, EVA Air, Hainan Airlines, Qantas Airways, Lufthansa and Thai Airways. Other categories included Best Airline by Global Region, Best Low-Cost Airlines (which went to Africa’s Fastjet), Best Airline Catering, Best Airline Seats and Best Airline Lounges.

Consumers vote for the Skytrax winners.

PHOTOS: © QATAR AIRWAYS, © PHOTOMALL - DREAMSTIME.COM

worldairlineawards.com

WANT MORE NEWS ON THE GO? SIGN UP FOR GT NEWSLETTERS Global Traveler’s weekly newsletters keep you up to date with info on the go. Sign up for newsletters at globaltravelerusa.com/newsletter.

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Not long after a recent suspension of flights between Chicago (ORD) and the Chinese cities of Beijing (PEK) and Shanghai (PVG), American Airlines permanently suspended service between the United States and these two major hubs in China.

The airline returned these 14 routes to the U.S. Department of Transportation in late June due to financial losses from the routes, which possibly could be due to serious competition from major regional carriers like Cathay Pacific and China Eastern Airlines.

In fall 2018 American announced a temporary suspension of the routes but hoped to reinstate the routes once the new Beijing Daxing International Airport opened in late 2019.

The official withdrawal opens spots for both United Airlines and Delta Air Lines to expand service between the Windy City and these two cities in China. American still serves Beijing and Shanghai from Dallas/Fort Worth (DFW) and Los Angeles. aa.com

Uber Ventures into Public Transit

After massive success in the ridesharing industry, an industry that hardly existed before this company did, Uber is now considering venturing into public transit.

Uber Transit is currently undergoing testing in Denver, where residents can open their Uber app to view public transportation options in addition to the nearest rideshare vehicles available for a ride. This feature will allow commuters to view and compare prices for both carsharing and public transit, and in the future Uber hopes to add a ticket-purchasing function to the app as well, allowing users to buy transit tickets without having to leave the app.

Uber plans to roll out Uber Transit in other cities throughout the rest of 2019, eventually expanding to all cities where Uber operates. uber.com

SEPTEMBER 2019

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news

Virgin Launches Los Angeles–Manchester Service

On Virgin Atlantic’s 35th birthday in June, founder Sir Richard Branson threw a lavish party in Los Angeles and also announced an upcoming new route between Los Angeles (LAX) and Manchester (MAN) in the United Kingdom.

While Manchester may seem like a questionable addition to Virgin Atlantic’s roster of destinations, Branson touts the city as a “gateway to the North” of England, with approximately 33 percent of people in England living within two hours of the city.

With Virgin Atlantic’s acquisition of low-cost Flybe, the Manchester connection will make it easier for travelers to visit other parts of the United Kingdom.

In addition to flights between L.A. and Manchester, Virgin Atlantic will also expand its portfolio of destinations in 2019 to include São Paulo, Brazil, and Tel Aviv, Israel. virginatlantic.com

On Dec. 5 JetBlue will begin its longest non-stop service between New York’s John F. Kennedy International Airport and Guayaquil, Ecuador (GYE). The city on the coast of South America is where most visitors to the Galápagos Islands begin and base their journey.

These daily flights will join other Guayaquilbound flights from Fort Lauderdale (FLL) but will take place on JetBlue’s new fleet of Airbus A321neo planes.

Guayaquil is the second city in Ecuador to be served by the low-cost American airline after Quito, which offers daily flights to Fort Lauderdale.

Flights will depart JFK at 2 p.m. and land at 9:04 p.m., while returning flights will leave Guayaquil at 10:55 p.m. and land at JFK at 5:13 a.m. the next day. jetblue.com

Edelweiss Passengers Offset Carbon Footprint

Passengers who book flights with Edelweiss will soon be able to select an option to offset their carbon footprint when they book their tickets online.

The Lufthansa-owned airline knows air travel is bad for the environment and wants to offer passengers the opportunity to fly with them without worrying about their negative impact on the environment. To do this, Edelweiss launched a new booking option for carbon-neutral tickets.

When travelers book their flights with Edelweiss, MyClimate.org will calculate the amount of carbon that will be emitted during the flight as well as the cost of that carbon emission. Travelers can choose to add this cost to their final total. Part of this cost will go to MyClimate, an organization that will use the funds for environmental projects around the world. flyedelweiss.com myclimate.org

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JetBlue to Launch Its Longest Non-Stop Service

deals & rewards

ASCI Reveals Consumer Favorites

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IdeaWorks’ Top 2019 Frequent-Flyer Programs

IdeaWorks released its annual report on top frequent-flyer programs, and this year Southwest Airlines came out on top.

The brand development company ranked 20 of the world’s top airlines based on seat availability and redemption prices for domestic, round-trip flights that normally go for about 25,000 points or miles, the standard for booking a seat with rewards.

For Southwest Airlines, the number of miles or points tends to match or nearly match the actual dollar amount of the seat, and in some cases it is even lower than the actual seat price. Southwest’s seat availability for 25,000-point seats was the closest to 100 percent of surveyed airlines.

Rounding out the top five are Etihad Airways, with 99 percent seat availability, followed by JetBlue at 98 percent, Turkish Airlines at 98 percent, and Air Canada at 95 percent.

This past spring the American Customer Satisfaction Index released its annual report revealing consumers’ opinions about airlines, hotels, online booking sites and other travel services.

Consumers ranked their favorite airline as Alaska Airlines with an overall score of 80, ousting Southwest Airlines, which this year fell to No. 2 with a score of 79, tying JetBlue.

For hotels, JW Marriott ranked at the top of the list with a score of 84, followed by Embassy Suites, Fairfield Inn & Suites, Hilton Garden Inn and Marriott Hotels.

As for travel booking sites, TripAdvisor took the top spot, while the top five included Orbitz, Expedia, Travelocity and Priceline. theacsi.org

ideaworkscompany.com

A New Marriott Bonvoy Credit Card

Marriott Bonvoy released three credit cards this year, and the Bonvoy Bold is the fourth addition to this suite of new cards.

With the card, members can earn three points per dollar spent at Marriott Bonvoy properties, two points per dollar spent in the travel category, and one point per dollar on other purchases. Cardmembers also receive 15 elite nights of credit per year, which automatically awards members with Silver Elite status. Insurance benefits include up to $100 for baggage delays; $3,000 per passenger for lost bags; and $500 for expenses caused by trip delays.

The Chase credit card offers a sign-up bonus of 50,000 points when new cardmembers spend $2,000 in the first three months. marriott.com chase.com

Accor and Air France-KLM Join Forces

At the beginning of the summer, French hotel company Accor Hotels announced its plans to partner with Air France-KLM. Once the programs merge, members of Air France-KLM’s Flying Blue program can earn one mile for every euro they spend at an Accor property, while members of Accor’s loyalty program will earn one point for every two euros they spend on airfare with Air France or KLM. Members of both programs also will be able to transfer points: 4,000 Flying Blue miles can be transferred as 1,000 Accor points; and 2,000 Accor points can convert into 1,000 miles. accorhotels.com airfranceklm.com

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GT tested

DISNEY’S GRAND CALIFORNIAN HOTEL & SPA Reviewed by Angelique Platas

Arrival/Check-In: After my flight to LAX from PHL and a long ride from Los Angeles to Anaheim, California, I was excited to see our hotel when we pulled up to Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel & Spa. As far as Disney resorts go, this one snuck up on me — I was not expecting a Disney hotel with so much subtlety. Tucked away like a cabin deep in the forest, the resort features an impressive lobby swirling with activity and plush leather lounges, faux fireplaces and miniature rocking chairs for the kids. I was immediately taken with the design. Like a rustic lodge but with that special Disney touch and hidden characters like Chip and Dale mixed into the décor, this resort kept up with the “Grand” in its name.

Hotel staff quickly greeted me and escorted me to a line for the concierge desk, where I waited a few minutes for my turn and received help with my bags. As I’d arrived a few hours prior to check-in, my room wasn’t quite ready, so the concierge staff offered to hold my bags for safekeeping while I spent a few hours exploring the resort, theme parks and Downtown Disney.

I took a quick tour around the lobby and nearby pool and got a little lay of the land before heading out into the parks from the hotel’s private entrance — something unique to the resort and incredibly convenient for families.

A couple of hours later I returned with some color from the sun and newfound excitement to check out my now-ready room.

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◆ For guests looking to spend the day by the pool, call ahead to reserve a cabana or arrive early to stake out a lounge chair.

Services/Amenities: The convenience of the resort’s location, amenities and services are a game-changer for such a dynamic and busy location. With a designated entrance to Downtown Disney and the parks, guests can easily spend the day at both Disneyland and Disney Adventure with convenient re-entry and fast access to park security lines.

While the special entrance to the parks may be the most convenient aspect, it’s definitely not the only amenity. Guests enjoy 24-hour access to the fitness center (despite its small appearance, it includes high-tech cardio equipment, Peloton bikes and weights) and the 24-hour business center. Among many other Disney amenities and services, guests can book some relaxing spa treatments, explore different on-property dining options, take advantage of the resort’s laundry services and have merchandise purchased at Disney shops delivered to their room.

◆ The designated park entrance can shave time off getting to and from the park and allows guests to skip the resort shuttle altogether. ◆ A few levels above the lobby, guests can get cozy on the library-esque floor to get some work done during quieter hours, like early morning or after dinner.

DISNEY’S GRAND CALIFORNIAN HOTEL & SPA 1600 S. Disneyland Drive Anaheim, CA 92802 tel 714 635 2300 disneyland.disney.go.com

PHOTOS: © DISNEY’S GRAND CALIFORNIAN HOTEL & SPA

Guest Quarters: I walked into my large, two-bedroom guestroom complete with a balcony overlooking the pool and courtyard. The heavy dark-wood pieces, natural tones and cozy décor of the room echoed the rustic natural vibe of the lobby and added a sense of warmth I didn’t expect at a Southern California hotel. I investigated the bathroom and found a rainfall showerhead, already a win for me, and his-and-hers sinks with matching Disney soaps and lotions, a tad larger than travel-sized, that added to the homey feel of the room.

I checked out the closet space, hung up a few items and spread out my computer and work bag across the spacious desk near the TV. I dropped my bags by the couch and sat on the balcony with a coffee I made in the in-room Keurig to take in the views and perk up before getting ready for dinner. While it may sound like I tore into the room and made a mess immediately (I kind of did), you wouldn’t notice based on the spacious and generous layout of the room.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

GT tested

SLS HOTEL, A LUXURY COLLECTION HOTEL, BEVERLY HILLS Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher

PHOTOS: © SLS HOTEL, A LUXURY COLLECTION HOTEL, BEVERLY HILLS

Arrival/Check-In: Looking forward to seeing the refresh and renovation of the SLS Beverly Hills, I checked in with little delay even though a few other guests stood at the desk. I noticed a lot of families with children staying at the SLS, which I thought was interesting and a shift in its previous marketing profile. The property boasts a great location and a cool pool, which was one of the major changes when it modified the building 15 years ago. A simple turn to my right led me up to my lovely room in no time.

Guest Quarters: The room was comfortable and userfriendly, and the bed resulted in some of the best sleep I have had in a hotel. Although the property offers lots of “party options,” I didn’t hear any of that activity in my room. I stayed in Room 226, with sliding doors to a patio and an outstanding garden offering ample seating (an umbrella, outdoor chairs and a settee) — a great place to enjoy breakfast or end-of-day sundowners, which you can easily make from a generous minibar with “adult-sized” bottles.

The king-sized bed, flanked by small, marble-topped end tables, included comfortable bedding with a variety of pillow choices. Near the patio exit, a small, round, marble-topped table and two chairs provided space to set up a laptop and create a work station. The 55-inch TV hung on the wall opposite the bed, with an entertainment center, minibar and storage below. I enjoyed watching Netflix on the 55-inch screen when I had some time to kill. Nice touches included drinking glasses of various colors and types and the signature “monkey” bust on a shelf, part of the SLS branding — they just want you to monkey around and have a good time.

The spacious bathroom featured a large shower but no tub, with strong water pressure and a rain-like shower nozzle. A sliding panel above the stainless-steel sink opened to the bedroom to create a more spacious feel or to allow communication with your guest.

Bathroom amenities included a good supply of towels (I counted four bath towels) plus Ciel Reserve shampoo, conditioner and other lotions and supplies.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Great location near the Beverly Center ◆ Cool graphics and art throughout the property ◆ Helpful and friendly staff

Services/Amenities: Restaurant venues include The Bazaar by José Andrés, which sports an eclectic design for a fun-filled experience, winning a Michelin Plate distinction this year. Tres is a more sophisticated option, also by José Andrés, boasting comfort foods with a twist, including afternoon tea. I enjoyed a drink and snack at the bar while I was in residence. Finally, Somni offers Catalan cuisine in a 10-seat counter experience. We also enjoyed breakfast in a private dining room off The Bazaar (great power breakfast option) and evening cocktails with the friendly, funny staff.

I had to ship a package, and the concierge took care of it with great service, which is always helpful, including tracking down a large box in which to send the items.

SEPTEMBER 2019

SLS HOTEL, A LUXURY COLLECTION HOTEL, BEVERLY HILLS 465 S. La Cienega Blvd.

Los Angeles, CA 90048 tel 310 247 0400 marriott.com

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HOTEL THEODORE Reviewed by Carly Allen

Guest Quarters: My room featured a large, open space surrounded by windows overlooking the bustling street and offering plenty of natural light. Right off the small entryway was a fully stocked bar with an espresso machine and an electric tea kettle for morning beverage service. A small seating area with club chairs and a large marble table sat to the left, with a small, window-facing desk and plenty of extra electrical outlets. A wardrobe stood in the corner to house the safe but contained no real space for hanging up clothes. The king-sized bed dominated

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the far end of the suite and offered a comfortable sleep. Two large marble side tables offered extra outlets and held uniquely shaped lamps that were bright and modern.

The bathroom was separated into two rooms, the first featuring my favorite: bright white subway tile with black metal and white marble accents. The toilet and vanity room provided excellent lighting, with plenty of space for my personal effects.

A metal and glass door opened into the second room: a large, subway-tiled shower room with a great clawfoot tub sitting within the shower area, giving everything a spacious feel.

Services/Amenities: The Theodore offers two great options for dining on property. The first, MADE Coffee — a café serving handcrafted coffee and espressos from a vintage wood-fired roaster — proves a great place to start the day. For dinner, try the hotel restaurant Rider, located right off the lobby and housing a full bar. One evening I sat at the chef ’s bar that faces the kitchen and the main grilling area for meat and seafood dishes — a perfect place to sit if you are a solo traveler. Being in Seattle, I had to taste the local oysters and the house pull-apart bread with crab butter. For my main dish, I had the Duck Three Ways: seared breast; confit leg; and wild rice hash with toasted pistachio, pomegranate, pineapple quince and foie gras torchon.

Probably the best duck dish I have had in the last few years!

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Unique vintage art and artifacts line the walls of the property, curated through its partnership with Seattle’s Museum of History and Industry. ◆ Located in the heart of the city center, the hotel lies just blocks from Pike Place, the Seattle Art Museum and the financial district. ◆ Nightly cocktails served throughout the week in the lobby give you a chance to try new creations and get excellent advice from locals on what to see.

HOTEL THEODORE 1531 7th Ave. Seattle, WA 98101 tel 206 621 1200 hoteltheodore.com

PHOTOS: © HOTEL THEODORE

Arrival/Check In: It was a chilly 35 degrees in Seattle as I sat with my morning espresso and the city continued to recover from a rare snowstorm the previous week, with more to come.

Luckily, I arrived at Sea-Tac the previous evening with clear skies and sunshine scheduled for this day, despite the cold.

I was pleased to try a new boutique property on this trip, Hotel Theodore, located downtown and in the middle of great shopping and restaurants, just a few blocks from Pike Place Market. The property was built just over a year ago and has a great modern-but-homey feel that I love when I travel.

I checked in during happy hour, and a bar cart and mixologist served me a yummy gin drink that warmed me instantly.

Although there are plenty of couches surrounding a large lobby area, I chose to take my drink up to my room on the eighth floor.

2019 Leisure Lifestyle Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

Best Beaches __________________________________________________________________________

Best Large-Ship Cruise Line __________________________________________________________

Best Historical Attractions, Domestic _________________________________________________

Best River Cruise Line _________________________________________________________________

Best Historical Attractions, International ______________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Entertainment ______________________________________________________

Best Adventure Destination, Domestic ________________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Dining _______________________________________________________________

Best Adventure Destination, International ____________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Spa ___________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in the United States ________________________________________

Best Cruise Ship Excursions __________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Europe____________________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Rewards Program __________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Africa _____________________________________________________

Best Cruise Port _______________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Asia _______________________________________________________

Best Luxury Leisure Hotel Group in the World ______________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Latin/South America _____________________________________

Best Hotel Chain Resorts _____________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Mexico ____________________________________________________

Best Pet-Friendly Hotel _______________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination for Groups (Four or More) __________________________________

Best Family Resort Chain in the World _______________________________________________

Best Weekend Destination in North America _________________________________________

Best All-Inclusive Resort________________________________________________________________

Best Weekend Destination in the World ______________________________________________

Best Tour Operator ____________________________________________________________________

Best North American Ski Destination__________________________________________________

Best Airport for Layovers ______________________________________________________________

Best International Ski Destination _____________________________________________________

Best Airport Recreation ________________________________________________________________

Best Caribbean Island ________________________________________________________________

Best Stopover Program ________________________________________________________________

Best Island in Europe _________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Airline ___________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________

Best Airline Onboard Entertainment __________________________________________________

Best Family Cruise Line _______________________________________________________________

Best Airline Onboard Menu____________________________________________________________

Best Luxury Cruise Line _______________________________________________________________

Best Premium-Economy Class _______________________________________________________

Best Value Cruise Line _______________________________________________________________

Best Pet-Friendly Airline _______________________________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Suites ________________________________________________________________

Best Luxury Vehicle ___________________________________________________________________

Best Adventure Cruise Line ___________________________________________________________

Best Car Rental ________________________________________________________________________

Best Small-Ship Cruise Line ___________________________________________________________

Favorite Luxury Watch Brand _________________________________________________________ Favorite Liquor Brand __________________________________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or fax to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/leisureballot Name Street Address City

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one on one

DAN WHITE Complex General Manager, Claridge House

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? The continuance of text and chat applications as primary methods of communication with guests Best career advice you’ve received: It is nice to be important, but it is more important to be nice.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field?

Always be positive and give it your best effort every day, then repeat.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: A recent family trip to Oregon and a subsequent daytrip to Crater Lake. The combination of spectacular views and a thrilling crater rim hike was an amazing

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experience to share together.

One travel tip you cannot live without: Kindness to hotel staff will get you many upgrades.

Best advice for business travelers: The more information you share, the better your experience will be.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND Tell us more about the Claridge House guest experience.

Claridge House offers a wonderful neighborhood feel minutes away from Downtown and Lincoln Park.

What amenities can guests expect at Claridge House? How do you ensure guests feel your motto of “our house … your home”? Guests can enjoy newly renovated guestrooms with inroom fridges and spa-inspired showers as well as fantastic dining.

Our team is a family, and our house is your home. The feeling of home and neighborhood is apparent from the second you arrive.

Tell us more about the hotel’s Gold Coast neighborhood.

Fantastic open-air dining and shopping all exist within a residential tree-lined neighborhood filled with historic mansions. Both residents and visitors fill the many restaurants and boutiques, creating an energy unmatched in Chicago.

PHOTO: © DAN WHITE

Name: Dan White Title: Complex general manager Company, city: Claridge House; Chicago, Illinois Number of employees: 70 Recent project: Leading a neighborhood mural design and installation project First job: Grocery store clerk Little-known fact about you: I enjoy playing acoustic guitar.

technology

POWER UP Top-notch designs enhance your daily tasks. BY JACK GUY

PHOTOS: © SONY, © ONEPLUS, © JURA, © SAMSUNG

SONY WH-1000XM3 The market for wireless noise-cancelling headphones exploded in recent years, and this model from Sony has taken the world by storm. Sound quality, build quality and design are all top-notch, and there are touch controls on the right earcup. The 30 hours of battery life is impressive compared to rivals, and USB-C compatibility makes for rapid charging when it does run out of charge. If you’ve not embraced the wireless audio revolution yet, this offers a seriously good place to start. $229.99. sony.com

ONEPLUS 7 PRO 5G Android fans will love this quality smartphone from OnePro, which boasts a highly regarded 6.7-inch Liquid AMOLED display and a triple camera system for great visual performance.

It’s also 5G-ready, which means you will be able to connect to mobile internet at blistering speeds as the new system rolls out. With up to 12GB of RAM, 256GB internal storage and a Qualcomm Snapdragon 855 chip, the 7 Pro will handle everything you throw at it, and fast-charging technology means the 4,000 mAh battery will keep you powered up. From $669. oneplus.com

JURA S8 Whether you like an espresso, a latte macchiato or anything in between, the Jura S8 coffee machine will whip one up on demand. Use the touchscreen to select your drink or access the accompanying app to place your order from afar. You can adjust the bean grinder to suit your preferences, and a professionalgrade milk frother adds a final flourish. The S8 boasts a beautiful design, too, and makes a real conversation piece. $2,999. jura.com

SAMSUNG Q90 QLED A beast of a display that builds on the considerable success of the Q9FN, the Q90 has been named among the best TVs ever made. The picture quality, nothing less than superb, and a number of innovations result in amazing detail and good viewing angles.

Choose from 65-, 75- and 82-inch versions; the sharp design means the Q90 will look good in any home.

It’s slightly deeper than some rivals, but that enables top audio performance thanks to four speakers, two subwoofers and a built-in amplifier. From $3,499. samsung.com

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wine & spirits

AFFORDABLE AND FRENCH Loubaton Imports introduces fine, family-run domains to the United States. BY EUNICE FRIED ALICE LOUBATON IS AN AMERICAN who lived and worked in France for 10 years. Now settled in the United States, she combined her love and considerable knowledge of wine with marketing experiences in both countries to establish Loubaton Imports, a small company bringing the wines of France’s small, familyowned and -operated producers to the United States. None of these producers make large quantities of wine. Some of the wines have never before crossed the Atlantic. Fresh to the American palate, many are worthy discoveries in quality and price.

At a tasting of Alice’s wines, I began with MarlonBosser Brut Champagne 2008 ($65), made equally of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Delicious and intriguing, it is well-balanced and amazingly complex.

Next, I tried her Château Tourril 2016 ($15), a white from the Languedoc-Roussillon region. Made from the Roussanne grape, it is a vibrant, forward wine, silky-smooth on the palate, lightly herbaceous, with a long, satisfying finish.

Alice also imports Château Tourril’s Havana 2018 ($14), IN GOOD TASTE: a rosé made of Cinsault and Alice Loubaton Grenache grapes. Rich and PHOTOS: © ALICE LOUBATON, © MARION-BOSSER, © CHATEAU TOURRIL textured, it displays layers of fruit.

The red Château Tourril, Philippe 2011 ($15) combines Grenache, Carignan and Syrah to produce a pleasant wine of medium body, with a hint of raspberries against a background of light spice.

Alice also imports wines from Domaine Treloar in the Languedoc-Roussillon region. One, its Côtes du Roussillon One Block Grenache, 2014, is a particularly interesting wine made mostly from Grenache and the rare Lledoner Pelut grape.

This ripe wine, deep red in color, features a scent that recalls berries and a hint of chocolate.

From the Loire Valley comes Domaine Dozon Chinon C Du Plaisir 2017, a bright, fresh, well-structured, especially attractive wine whose aroma recalls cherries and berries.

To complete the tasting, I sipped Domaine Treloar Muscat de Rivesaltes 2013, a beautifully balanced sweet wine made from the Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains grape in France’s Languedoc-Roussillon region. Most dessert wines of this caliber are expensive. This one, in 500 ml bottles, averages about $16 to $20, offering a rare and tasty way to end a meal.

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wealth

LOOKING BACK, MOVING AHEAD

PHOTO: © PANUWAT DANGSUNGNOEN - DREAMSTIME.COM

Start planning now for next year’s financial goals. BY KEVIN RYAN, CPA

AS WE APPROACH the last quarter of the calendar year, it is a good time to look back at your 2019 financial goals to see if you are on target. Have you saved as much as you wanted? Have you paid down some debt? Remember, if you pay more than the minimum amount due, you not only pay off your debt earlier than scheduled but also save on interest fees.

As of this writing, the stock markets performed well, so your investments may be ahead of your goals. Take a look at your accounts to see if you should rebalance holdings so they align with your preferences and risk tolerances.

Saving for retirement is always prudent. It lowers your current taxes because the amount you save in your IRA account or 401 (k) is a tax deduction and has the added byproduct of increasing retirement resources. Additionally, retirement account holdings grow tax-deferred until you begin to make distributions. You may also benefit by being in a lower tax bracket when in retirement, emphasizing the importance of maximizing your retirement contributions now.

For those individuals paid via a W-2, it is a good idea to take your

year-to-date earnings and withholdings and calculate where you will end up at year’s end to determine if you will be in good shape when it comes time to file your 2019 Form 1040. Be aware that last year is not a good indicator of where you will be this year because last year the new tax law changes modified the tax withholding tables during the tax year. There were no modifications this year. You don’t want any surprises when you file your tax returns; take the time now to get an understanding, as there is still time to change your withholdings if you need to do so.

This is also a good time to compare your actual spending to the amount you budgeted. If you have not been a budgeter but are willing to give it a try, this is a good opportunity to get a sense of what you spend each month and take the rest of the year to analyze your expenses so you can have some historical numbers to use for a 2020 budget. Set some short-term and long-term goals. Written goals are helpful, and evidence shows written goals are more frequently attained than those not transcribed. If you have more debt than you would like, make a commitment to change any bad habits so you don’t end up in the same situation in the future. Your financial picture won’t change quickly, but positive months will allow you to accumulate wealth over time.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice.

Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.

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tours

GOING SOLO Venture out on your own with the help of tour company itineraries. BY KRISTY ALPERT IT HAD BEEN TWO DAYS since I had spoken to another person. It was just me and my rental car, cruising along the highways and back roads of the Baltics on my way from Lithuania to Estonia. I dreamed of exploring this lesser-known region for quite some time, but I was never able to convince any of my friends or family to join me on the adventure, so I went out alone.

No stranger to dining or traveling solo, I ventured out, excited to make my own itinerary and forge my own path. I had it all planned down to the playlists for the road trip, but what I failed to factor in were the little things. Who would joke alongside me when I did something laughable? Who would be there to help navigate when I got turned around? Or who would stand in awe alongside me when I discovered something unexpected — like the time I veered off the highway in Latvia and discovered a giant hill covered in more than 100,000 crosses of varying sizes.

Solo travel is one of the best ways to discover not only a destination but also yourself; however, there are times when being alone on the road gets, well, lonely. Many operators, like Travel All Russia, began offering tours geared specifically to independent travelers, those solo adventurers who want to have their own private experiences but also want the comfort and option of an organized itinerary.

It was a solo trip to Asia that inspired Bruce Poon Tip to start the travel company G Adventures. Tip began the company on his own, but it has since grown to include more than 28 offices around the world. The tours focus on small groups, offering an intimate experience through a range of tours, safaris and expeditions. Not only does the company offer private tours designed for parties of one, but it also encourages single travelers to join in any of the group tours, where they have the option to request either their own private room or a shared room with another G Adventurer traveler of the same gender.

Goway Travel plans tours for singles who want the ease and peace of mind from a group trip without the group. Solo travelers receive privatized itineraries, with a travel agent just an email or phone call away at all times, designed to empower them to venture off on their own. It also offers trips that are singles-friendly, to prevent solo travelers from being the only table-for-one on a safari full of honeymooners or other couples.

Adventure Women plans trips specifically for women looking to experience a destination alongside like-minded women. It gears its trips toward physically fit women between 20 and 80 years old and does not charge single supplements, as most of the women who travel with the company come alone.

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ON HER OWN:

Kristy enjoying the view of Macchu Pichu (above), and on a boat in Botswana left) PHOTOS: Š KRISTY ALPERT

GET SOCIAL

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spas

WAVES OF WELL-BEING Seek serenity at sea with Seabourn Cruise Line’s spa and wellness program. BY KIMBERLY KROL

LUXURY CRUISING: Seabourn Odyssey PHOTO: © SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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I WAS DEPARTING ON A mother-daughter cruise to the Caribbean on board Seabourn Odyssey just as the results of our annual Leisure Lifestyle Awards were revealed internally. As I scrolled through the findings, two categories in particular stuck out to me: Best Cruise Line Dining and Best Cruise Line Spas. The winner? Seabourn Cruise Line. My appetite for a luxurious cruise and the chance for one-on-one time with my mom had already been whetted; it certainly was more so, now.

Seabourn’s spa and wellness program features a first-of-itskind partnership with Dr. Andrew Weil, a pioneer in integrative medicine. The offered treatments and curriculum seek to deliver an advanced level of mind and body balance that allows guests to achieve a true level of relaxation.

As part of the program with Dr. Weil, a Mindful Living Coach position was established. The coach is a certified yoga and meditation practitioner who works closely with guests throughout the journey through different complimentary classes and gatherings.

I would get to know our ship’s Mindful Living Coach well during a unique, holistic treatment that embodied the essence of the program.

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Immediately upon our arrival, we were warmly greeted by every member of the Seabourn Odyssey family, among them hotel manager Zoran Jacimovic who, while telling us about the myriad offerings on board, mentioned the spa’s unique Amethyst Crystal Sound Bath Healing Treatment. I was intrigued, particularly as he described the various reactions he, his staff and other guests have had after experiencing the Mindful Living treatment. It incorporates the Crystal Singing Sound Bowls, used to unblock energy centers and bring about a stress-free state.

As we acquainted ourselves with the ship, my mom (not a spa-goer, so it took some convincing) and I stopped by the spa to schedule treatments. My curiosity piqued, I booked both the sound treatment and a facial for Friday afternoon, the day before our departure. My mom opted to also enjoy a facial.

Throughout the week as we chatted with the Seabourn team, whenever I mentioned the Amethyst Crystal Sound Bath Healing Treatment, I was met with excited looks and a recount of that particular person’s experience with the treatment and a request to return and tell them about mine. Needless to say, my anticipation for my spa visit built to epic proportions over the course of the week.

It’s difficult to wrap your head around exactly how the treatment will proceed when you first hear of it. I was told sound bowls would be placed at three points on my body, and someone would “play” them. I was imagining bowls of varying sizes placed directly on me, and I assumed, as with most spa treatments, some sort of touch would be involved. In reality, the Mindful Living Coach never touched me, nor did the bowls, yet it was one of the most freeing spa experiences I’ve had.

The treatment’s description in the spa menu begins, “Nothing can prepare you for the healing power of sound as it resonates through your body.” And nothing could be closer to the truth.

Shove aside expectations, forget your prior experiences, open your mind — that would be my advice as you head into the Amethyst Crystal Sound Bath Healing Treatment.

After a brief consultation with the Mindful Living Coach, I settled onto the Amethyst Bio-Mat on the massage table. The mat uses infrared light and crystals to heat the body. The Crystal Sound Bowls were situated around me, one between my splayed knees, one on the ground parallel to my abdomen and one parallel to my head.

According to the spa, studies prove the Bio-Mat’s infrared

light and negative ions reduce stress by 78 percent while promoting relaxation, aiding sleep, easing pain and ridding toxins. And I reiterate, no one lays a hand on you; it’s the power of sound and sound alone that lulls one into a meditative state.

Throughout the week I’d heard of people crying, people snoring, each individual’s relaxation manifesting in its own way.

For me, I felt like I was floating. Yes, I was on a boat, but it wasn’t that sort of sensation; rather, I felt like I was floating above myself, like the sound lifted me up. I suffer from chronic sinus issues and, interestingly, I felt the reverberations of the sound most strongly in my face and head, the areas regularly affected by the sinus pressure. Before I knew it, the 50 minutes expired and the strong melodies filling the room dropped to a quiet whisper.

I followed my out-of-body experience with an indulgent facial, enjoying therapeutic benefits of a different kind. Afterward, I regrouped with my mom in the locker room, her skin aglow from her own treatment. The entire week had bonded us in a new way, offering a chance for true connection amid life’s hectic schedules, and now, post treatment with the end of our trip in sight, we found just the right level of balance and relaxation to ease us back to reality.

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RELAXATION ZONE:

Heated stone loungers and Kneipp wading pool PHOTO: © SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

Seabourn Cruise Line seabourn.com

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golf

BIRDS OF PLAY Meet the challenges of nature on the Harbourside Course at The Resort at Longboat Key Club. BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

AMONG THE TREES:

White Egret Hole 7 PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

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RANKED CONSISTENTLY AS A BEST place to play by Golf Digest, The Resort at Longboat Key Club offers 45 holes of golf, including the Links on Longboat and the Harbourside Course, the latter featuring a multitude of trees as it snakes along Sarasota Bay. You can enjoy a decent golf trip with the ability to play both courses.

Harbourside consists of three nine-hole courses: the White Egret, the Red Hawk and the Blue Heron. Unfortunately, the Blue Heron was closed to play the day we teed up. The pro and starter were disappointed we would not experience what the club’s website calls “our famous ‘Blue Heron.’” But the White Egret (measuring 3,342 yards) and the Red Hawk (measuring 3,314 yards) did not disappoint.

Between the water, the trees and the wind that blew at 30 mph at times, there is little margin for error.

Willard Byrd designed the course in 1982. Byrd designed and remodeled a multitude of U.S. golf courses, among them Atlanta Country Club; The Country Club of North Carolina, Pinehurst; Heather Glen Golf Links, Myrtle Beach (see GT October 2015); Wild Wing Plantation, Myrtle Beach; and Willow Creek Golf Club, High Point, North Carolina. Byrd served aboard a U.S. Navy minesweeper in World War II and returned to create a successful golf course architecture firm. Architect Ron Garl redesigned the Red Hawk course in

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2005, with the entire nine recently resodded with Platinum Paspalum grass. White Egret features Bermuda grass fairways.

I teed up with Paul Gosselin for a fun afternoon of competitive golf and dinner at Portofino Restaurant. The course is available for guest play only — what a grand excuse to stay at the resort and enjoy all its amenities, including six restaurants, a spa, tennis and spectacular beaches.

RED HAWK HOLE 1 | 372 yards, par 4

A great starting hole, and we were ready for action. Both Paul and I made near-perfect drives, Paul’s passing mine by about 30 yards.

The only concern off the tee is a small pond with trees on the right and a sand trap on the left ready to catch any decent drive on that side. I landed dead center but still had a long way to the green and over-clubbed my shot, landing past the cart path behind the green. A decent wedge got me back in the game, much to Paul’s shock, for a gimme for par. Paul did catch that trap and came out like a champ, landing on the green. Unfortunately, the dreaded three-putt forced a bogey.

HOLE 4 | 516 yards, par 5

This hole forever will be named “Paulie Coconuts,” as Paul’s drive off the tee, strong and powerful, veered right and bounded into the palm trees lining the fairway. The ball rolled to the right of the trees and returned back left, stopping inside the trunk of a palm. Of course, I thought this was hilarious; even though my drive was far shorter, it was in play.

Paul took an unplayable penalty and shot the ball back into the fairway, no easy feat. My drive stayed center, and I just had to keep the ball in play with my 3-wood to have a decent shot onto the green.

With both of us within striking distance, we landed on the green and both two-putted — resulting in a par for me and a bogey for “Paulie Coconuts.” A nice recovery for a difficult situation and, of course, a new nickname for life.

HOLE 7 | 392 yards, par 4

As the course turned back toward the clubhouse, the gusting wind totally changed the level of play. We stopped at the tee box for a selfie as we had caught up to the group ahead. Cigar lit and in the process of taking the picture, my hat flew off and my cigar went airborne, nearly burning Paul in the process. We were ready for the tee shots as the wind pushed us and affected the flight of our drives. My ball landed dangerously right and kept bounding, nearly rolling in the water lining the right side of the fairway. This seems to be a common result at Longboat: Good drives bound beyond expectations, often landing in hazards or among coconuts. Paul killed a drive going left and long and in play, affording him a decent shot to the green for a par. I, on the other hand, could not keep my ball in play, my second shot bounding into the drink.

WHITE EGRET HOLE 4 | 386 yards, par 4

As we approached the fourth hole, we were on top of the group ahead of us which was playing slowly. We teed up and shot down the narrow fairway featuring a small grove of trees and a waste area on the right (adjacent to a pond) and a house and more trees on the left. I ended up in the waste area, and Paul hit a monster drive, landing close to the group in front.

One of the players was waving his arms in the air, and I thought he was upset about our close proximity. We played out, each carding a bogey, and I went to the group to apologize.

On the contrary, they were trying to tell us about the crow that took their ball and flew away. (After the game, at the Tavern & Whiskey Bar, this became a topic of conversation with visitors from the U.K. who frequently witness the famous ball-stealing crows at Harbourside.) The foursome kindly let us play through after we enjoyed their crow story.

HOLE 7 | 178 yards, par 3

Hole 7 requires a little mental play, as this fairly long par 3

features trees right and left and a narrow opening. It should not affect the flight of your ball, but I clipped a branch on the left side, landing in a forward bunker.

Paul overshot right, landing beyond the green. I was able to pull out a shot to the green from the bunker, and Paul did the same from his right-side position. What should have been par putts ended in a pair of bogeys.

TRAPPED:

Red Hawk Hole 1 (top) and Hole 4 palm tree (bottom)

HOLE 9 | 350 yards, par 4

PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Our closing hole did not disappoint. Although we did not display our best play, we had a great time as we struggled through the strong winds. The fairway for 9 is wide open, so I decided to take full advantage, hitting my ball left, landing on the slope of a bunker nearly in the other hole’s fairway. Paul went right, and we split up to take our respective clubs and shots. I was close enough to nail the green, but the uneven lie sent my ball higher and right, under some trees and among some hardpan soil that made my chip more difficult. Paul also had issues, and we landed on the green, walking away with a bogey for Paul and double bogey for yours truly. It was time to hit the showers and have a Guinness at the tavern while chatting with locals and visitors about our day playing the Red Hawk and White Egret and, of course, the crows and coconuts!

SEPTEMBER 2019

The Resort at Longboat Key Club Harbourside Golf Course 220 Sands Point Road Longboat Key, FL 34228 tel 941-387-1632 longboatkeyclub.com

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chefs

FRESH PERSPECTIVE Chef Isabelle Toland takes the helm of the reimagined Banyan Tree at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua. BY KIMBERLY KROL

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WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? Growing up with a French dad and a FilSpanish mother, food has always been part of loving.

It’s a culture as opposed to a choice. I spent most of my teenage years in Manila, spending summers in California and Hawai’i. My parents have always been travelers and so have I. So I guess I am a world nomad with many cultures involved in my cooking and lifestyle.

Asian flavors and French techniques have always been present in my menus and cooking. It’s always evolving as well. My most recent travels to Nepal expanded my spice cabinet, and Marseilles has me using more fennel lately.

WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? Anthony Bourdain always intrigued me. I loved his authenticity and lack of “caring what others think” mentality. His travels and need to explore and try things others wouldn’t are things I push for myself.

WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE? My mom — she left Manila at 18 years old and moved to New York City, where she met my dad. Then they lived in Bordeaux and moved to the Philippines and later California. She’s a wacky one, and always pushes to be different. That goes for her cooking; I grew up eating classic French food to which she always added her twist.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? Paris. I can have all types of cuisine and all types done properly. The French have food and wine in their culture. You don’t have to be a chef to know good food techniques and wine knowledge.

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? Family style — more and more we see restaurants moving away from the classical three-course meal. The hardest thing about going out is wanting to eat everything but not physically being able to order 10 menu items. That’s why tasting menus have taken off. Unfortunately, not everyone can afford a $300-plus meal, so why not share everything and taste more?

At The Banyan Tree, this is something we push for.

We want guests to be able to take a bit of the first dish, then go back and compare it to the third, fourth or fifth.

We want everyone to eat together, talk about the food and pass the dishes down the table as you would at home or at a dinner party.

THE BANYAN TREE The Ritz-Carlton Kapalua 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive Kapalua, HI 96761 tel 808 669 6200 ritzcarlton.com

PHOTOS: © THE RITZ-CARLTON KAPALUA

A NEW STAR JOINED the already bright roster of culinary powerhouses at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua on Maui’s northwest shore. Chef Isabelle “Bella” Toland joined the resort this spring when its reimagined signature restaurant, The Banyan Tree, reopened.

Toland’s esteemed reputation in the industry preceded her recent appointment; she joins the Hawai’ian luxury property from Travaasa Hana, where she directed food and beverage efforts since 2016. Prior to that, she worked for Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group, including as sous chef at Spago at Four Seasons Resort Maui, where she immersed herself in traditional Hawai’ian cuisine and culture.

After delighting their taste buds at The Banyan Tree, guests at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua can also enjoy newly reimagined guestrooms, new décor, an indulgent spa, five other dining experiences, meeting space, luxury cabanas, Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Ambassadors of the Environment program and much more.

For some, it’s sitting down to the first five-star dinner of the trip, and being transported by the rich, unexpected flavors awaiting you. For others, it’s sailing into an exotic, remote port without another ship in sight. And for you, it’s the little things.

Discover your moment.

ENJOY THE FINEST CUISINE AT SEA™ ABOARD OUR INTIMATE AND LUXURIOUS SHIPS. CALL 855-OCEANIA (855-623-2642) | VISIT OCEANIACRUISES.COM or CONTACT YOUR TR AVEL ADVISOR

cruising

NO ORDINARY CRUISE Experience a world of wonder aboard Windstar’s elegant small ships. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER LONG REGARDED AS AMONG the finest small-ship cruise lines, Windstar made its name with its first three ships, the 148-passenger Wind Star and Wind Spirit and the 312-passenger Wind Surf, each featuring computer-controlled sails. Three more conventional 212-passenger boutique ships were recently added to the fleet: Star Pride (2014), Star Legend (2015) and Star Breeze (2015). Together, the six ships now call on some 300 ports in 80 countries, taking passengers to places larger luxury ships do not go, from Little Bay on Montserrat to Surtsey Island in Iceland, while remaining true to the Windstar motto, “180 degrees from ordinary.”

The ambience is stylish but smart and casual, yacht-like, relaxed and intimate. The 1.5-to-1 guest-to-staff ratio ensures attentive, personalized service. The Bridge is always open and the captain on hand to field questions. A water sports platform provides free equipment, as the weather and seas permit, from kayaks, paddleboards, sailboats and sailboards to water trampolines and even water skis.

The cuisine reflects that of top American bistros.

Windstar, the official cruise line of the James Beard Foundation, often features its award-winning chefs aboard, especially on the numerous special culinary cruises offered each year.

Worldwide destinations include Alaska, the Caribbean, the Mediterranean and Northern Europe; Asia and the South Pacific; and the American West Coast, Mexico, Costa Rica and the Panama Canal. While not an “all-inclusive” luxury cruise line, Windstar now offers an All-in Package that covers gratuities, WiFi access, laundry service and beverages (all wines by glass, minibar drinks and many cocktails) for $89 per person, per day.

In a novel twist, Windstar Cruises expanded its fleet this year not by number, but by length. Come November 2020, Windstar will have stretched three of its existing vessels (Star Breeze, Star Legend and Star Pride) 84 feet each at midships, increasing capacity from 212 to 312 passengers and adding 50 new suites, an infinity pool, a spa and fitness center, new bathrooms all around, a central elevator and two 90-passenger tenders. If you can do without sails, these expanded ships will do nicely indeed.

The newly lengthened Star Breeze hits the water March 20, 2020, with a Miami-to-Panama cruise, followed by three Costa Rica/Panama trips; a Baja cruise; a James Beard Foundation culinary cruise from San Diego to Vancouver; 10 Alaska cruises May through August; and, closing out 2020, voyages to China, Korea and Japan. The “new” Star Legend debuts July 2, 2020, with

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rld’s e wo h t , f , Sur , the asts ind ines g W n ’ ng m e s i e r e s e h i t w u o n r Cr ers dow ive t seng uts dsta on f s h n i s a p , p u p o nW for . g shi ils g Whe seas work ailin d sa s y e l v t l s high a o e e r e g h t h r n t e a l n th -co oes nce o uter as d oma v r comp n d a n an the c ditio and a r t ing seek

OUT TO SEA:

Windstar Cruises’ paddleboards leaving the water sports platform of Star Pride (top), and onboard cuisine (left) PHOTOS: © WINDSTAR CRUISES

a Barcelona-to-Lisbon voyage. It then heads up Europe’s Atlantic Coast to Iceland and ends up exploring the Mediterranean with cruises to Greece, Venice, the French Riviera, İstanbul, Alexandria and the less-visited Corinth Canal.

feature

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY ALL-INCLUSIVE HOTEL: Beaches Turks & Caicos Resort Villages & Spa PHOTO: © BEACHES

Wherever Awards 2019 Whereverfamily.com, the trusted travel source for the modern family, announces the winners of the Wherever Awards. BY KIMBERLY KROL YOUR FAMILY MAY LOOK DIFFERENT than your next-door neighbor’s, and it’s likely your son or daughter’s best friend at school has another type of family configuration.

While today’s families come in a variety of shapes and sizes, wanderlust and the desire to see and experience different destinations and cultures through travel are as universal as the concept of family. The team behind Global Traveler and Trazee Travel recognized the need for a trusted travel source for the modern family when we debuted whereverfamily.com in 2017, and now, two years later, the web publication continues to deliver daily content across a range of topics, bringing a worldwide focus to family travel no matter the makeup of the family, its income bracket or the ages of a family’s members.

In that same vein, families seek to find the best of the best when it comes to travel providers, knowing if they want a family vacation to go off without a hitch, these are the companies they need to use. As such, we asked, and our whereverfamily.com readers answered, naming the absolute best in the world of family travel in this year’s Wherever Awards, now in its second year. WhereverFamily conducted an online survey of

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its readers Sept. 1, 2018–March 31, 2019, with openended questions for the best in many categories important to family travelers. Only those questionnaires with 50 percent or more of the questions answered were counted.

Entries from employees of the web publication and individuals associated with the travel industry were not accepted.

Without further ado, we present to you the winners and offer congratulations to those travel companies and destinations earning accolades from family travelers.

Let’s start with the (family-) friendly skies and say “Way to go!” to our airline winners. American Airlines nabs the top spot as Best Family-Friendly Domestic Airline, while TAP Air Portugal secures its second consecutive win as Best Family-Friendly International Airline. Air Canada wins for Best Family-Friendly Airline in North America, and its Aeroplan program wins for Best Family-Friendly Frequent-Flyer Program. If you’re taking a good, oldfashioned family road trip or just looking for reliable transportation around the locale you’re visiting, Avis is driving away with its second win as Best Family-Friendly Rental Car Company.

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESORT CHAIN: Wyndham Hotels & Resorts

Wherever Awards

PHOTO: © WYNDHAM HOTELS & RESORTS

2019

WINNERS’ CIRCLE Best Family-Friendly Airport Shopping BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DOMESTIC AIRLINE Dubai Duty Free 1. American Airlines 2. Delta Air Lines 3. Hawaiian Airlines 4. United Airlines 5. Alaska Airlines

Families in transit can spend a lot of time in the airport, and it’s important the facility’s family-friendly amenities can entertain excited, anxious kids and give frazzled parents a break. Here are the airports guaranteed to be a win for your family: Pittsburgh International Airport wins Best Family-Friendly Domestic Airport; Singapore Changi Airport nabs the Best Family-Friendly International Airport title for the second year in a row; Dubai International Airport wins Best Family-Friendly Airport Shopping, two years running; and another two-time winner, HartsfieldJackson Atlanta International Airport, is Best FamilyBEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DOMESTIC AIRPORT: Pittsburgh International Airport PHOTO: © PITTSBURGH INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Friendly Airport Dining.

You’ve arrived, and it’s time to get the real fun started. Consider these family-friendly options for your next getaway with the clan. For the second year in a row, The Ritz-Carlton takes home the top prize of Best Family-Friendly Hotel Chain, while Wyndham Hotels & Resorts takes its first-time win for Best FamilyFriendly Resort Chain. Atlantis Paradise Island Resort, Bahamas appears twice on the survey, including a twotime Best Family-Friendly Hotel Kids Club win and a nod as Best Family-Friendly Individual Hotel.

Revamped and ready to help your family rack

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY AIRLINE IN NORTH AMERICA 1. Air Canada 2. American Airlines 3. Delta Air Lines 4. United Airlines 5. Alaska Airlines BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INTERNATIONAL AIRLINE 1. TAP Air Portugal 2. Delta Air Lines 3. Alaska Airlines 4. Air New Zealand 5. American Airlines BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY FREQUENT-FLYER PROGRAM 1. Air Canada Aeroplan 2. United MileagePlus 3. American Airlines AAdvantage 4. Delta SkyMiles 5. Singapore Airlines KrisFlyer BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTEL CHAIN 1. The Ritz-Carlton 2. Holiday Inn Club Vacations 3. Hyatt Hotels and Resorts 4. Westin Hotels & Resorts 5. Sheraton BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESORT CHAIN 1. Wyndham Hotels & Resorts 2. Hyatt Hotels and Resorts 3. InterContinental Hotels & Resorts 4. Crowne Plaza 5. Westin Hotels & Resorts

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BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTEL CHAIN:

Wherever Awards

The Ritz-Carlton PHOTO: © THE RITZ-CARLTON

2019 Best Family-Friendly WINNERS’ CIRCLE Airport Shopping BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY

Dubai Free INDIVIDUALDuty HOTEL 1. Atlantis Paradise Island Resort, Bahamas 2. Four Seasons Resort Orlando at Walt Disney World 3. Atlantis The Palm, Dubai 4. LEGOLAND Feriendorf, Gunzburg, Germany 5. Beaches Negril Resort & Spa, Jamaica

up rewards, Marriott Bonvoy is this year’s Best FamilyFriendly Frequent-Stay Program. Kids and adults alike will find endless entertainment at Beaches Turks & Caicos Resort Villages & Spa, Best Family-Friendly All-Inclusive Hotel, while even the four-legged family members will be doggone happy at Fairmont Hotels, Best Family-Friendly Pet Hotel.

Where to go? What tour company to use? Ever think about sailing there? The rest of the categories in this year’s survey answer those questions and more. American Airlines Vacations is this year’s Best Family-Friendly Vacation Company, while Adventures by Disney claims its second nod as Best Family-Friendly Domestic Tour Company. On the international side of things, National Geographic Vacations earned Best Family-Friendly International Tour Company. Lindblad Expeditions takes home its second nod as Best Family-Friendly Travel Provider of the Year.

Disney racks up its second accolade, this time for Disney Cruise Line, Best Family-Friendly Cruise Line. If you’re looking to take the entire family to sail the seven seas, from the youngest to the oldest member, opt for two-time Best Family-Friendly MultiGen Cruise Line, Silversea Cruises. New to the survey this year but seriously important for traveling families: Royal Caribbean’s Adventure Ocean wins for Best Family-Friendly Cruise Line Kids Club.

As parents know, getting there and enjoying the time away are only parts of the process. There’s also the allimportant trip payment. But dollars spent can be dollars earned, and our readers voted two credit cards as the best for accumulating points: United Explorer Card from Chase, Best Family-Friendly Credit Card, and Chase

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BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY WATERPARK: Great Wolf Lodge PHOTO: © GREAT WOLF LODGE

Marriott Bonvoy Boundless Visa, Best Family-Friendly Credit Card Rewards Program.

Italy, a dream destination for many, makes two appearances this year, winning Best Family-Friendly International Destination and Best Family-Friendly MultiGen Destination of the Year. Here in the United States, Philadelphia was dubbed Best Family-Friendly Domestic Destination, and the Bahamas wins Best Family-Friendly Caribbean Island for the second year in a row. Keep the kids entertained at Cedar Point, in Sandusky, Ohio, Best Family-Friendly Amusement Park, or at Great Wolf Lodge, Best Family-Friendly Waterpark.

It can be a challenge to delight hard-to-please kids and discerning adults, but these winners prove they’re not only up to the challenge, they’re also exceeding expectations.

Earning kid-tested and parent-approved accolades is no small feat. Congratulations to the winners of the 2019 Wherever Awards!

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY FREQUENT-STAY PROGRAM 1. Marriott Bonvoy 2. IHG Rewards Club 3. Wyndham Rewards 4. Loews First 5. Hilton Honors BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY ALL-INCLUSIVE HOTEL 1. Beaches Turks & Caicos Resort Villages & Spa 2. Nickelodeon Hotels & Resorts Punta Cana, Dominican Republic 3. Paradisus Playa del Carmen La Esmerelda, Mexico 4. Club Med Pragelato Vialattea, Italy 5. Tortuga Lodge & Gardens, Costa Rica BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY PET HOTEL 1. Fairmont Hotels 2. The Peninsula Hotels 3. Westin Hotels & Resorts 4. InterContinental Hotels & Resorts 5. Sheraton BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTEL KIDS CLUB 1. Atlantis Paradise Island Resort, Bahamas 2. The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs, Colorado

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY TRAVEL PROVIDER OF THE YEAR: Lindblad Expeditions PHOTO: © SVEN-OLOF / LINDBLAD EXPEDITIONS

3. Club Med, Sandpiper Bay, Florida 4. Sea Island, Georgia 5. Beaches Turks & Caicos Resort Villages & Spa BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY VACATION COMPANY 1. American Airlines Vacations 2. United Vacations 3. SAA Vacations 4. Delta Vacations 5. Holiday Inn Vacation Club BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DOMESTIC TOUR COMPANY 1. Adventures by Disney 2. National Geographic Vacations 3. REI Adventures 4. Trafalger 5. Intrepid Travel BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INTERNATIONAL TOUR COMPANY 1. National Geographic Vacations 2. Lindblad Expeditions 3. Classic Journeys 4. Thomson Family Adventures 5. Austin Adventures

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY CRUISE LINE 1. Disney Cruise Line 2. Holland America Line 3. Viking Ocean Cruises 4. Princess Cruises 5. Celebrity Cruises BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY MULTIGEN CRUISE LINE 1. Silversea Cruises 2. Celebrity Cruises 3. Viking Ocean Cruises 4. Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection 5. Royal Caribbean BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY CRUISE LINE KIDS CLUB 1. Royal Caribbean Adventure Ocean 2. Norwegian Cruise Line Splash Academy 3. Disney Cruise Line Oceaneer Club 4. Carnival Cruise Line Camp Ocean 5. Princess Cruises Camp Discovery BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY CREDIT CARD 1. United Explorer Card from Chase 2. Blue Cash Preferred Card from American Express 3. Alaska Airlines Visa Signature Card 4. Chase Sapphire Preferred 5. Citi AAdvantage MasterCard

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY CREDIT CARD REWARDS PROGRAM 1. Chase Marriott Bonvoy Boundless Visa 2. Royal Caribbean Bank of America Visa 3. Delta SkyMiles American Express 4. Princess Cruises Visa Signature Card 5. Disney Premier Visa

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY RENTAL CAR COMPANY 1. Avis 2. Hertz 3. Sixt 4. National Car Rental 5. Budget

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INTERNATIONAL DESTINATION 1. Italy 2. Africa 3. Fiji 4. London 5. Costa Rica

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY TRAVEL PROVIDER OF THE YEAR 1. Lindblad Expeditions 2. National Geographic Vacations 3. REI Adventures 4. Thomson Family Adventures 5. Ecoventure Family Cruises

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DOMESTIC DESTINATION 1. Philadelphia 2. Orlando 3. California 4. Washington, D.C. 5. Texas BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY CARIBBEAN ISLAND 1. Bahamas 2. Grand Cayman 3. Curaçao 4. Aruba 5. St. Lucia BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY MULTIGEN DESTINATION OF THE YEAR 1. Italy 2. South Africa 3. Ireland 4. Patagonia 5. Mexico BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY AMUSEMENT PARK 1. Cedar Point, Sandusky, Ohio 2. Magic Kingdom, Disney World, Orlando 3. Universal Studios Hollywood 4. Sesame Place, Langhorne, Pennsylvania 5. Six Flags Fiesta Texas, San Antonio BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY WATERPARK 1. Great Wolf Lodge 2. Atlantis The Palm, Dubai 3. Aquatica by SeaWorld 4. Zoombezi Bay, Columbus, Ohio 5. Disney’s Blizzard Beach, Orlando

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DOMESTIC AIRPORT 1. Pittsburgh International Airport 2. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport 3. San Francisco International Airport 4. Chicago O’Hare International Airport 5. Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 1. Singapore Changi Airport 2. Munich Airport 3. Hamad International Airport, Doha 4. Incheon Airport 5. Frankfurt am Main Airport BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY AIRPORT DINING 1. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport 2. Chicago O’Hare International Airport 3. Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport 4. George Bush Intercontinental Airport, Houston 5. Dubai International Airport BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY AIRPORT SHOPPING 1. Dubai International Airport 2. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport 3. Hamad International Airport, Doha 4. Amsterdam Schiphol Airport 5. Singapore Changi Airport

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feature

Leisure Lifestyle Awards 2019 Global Traveler honors the leaders in leisure travel with a grand celebration.

BY KIMBERLY KROL| PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICOLAS BATES

A RARE RAINSTORM IN LOS ANGELES couldn’t dampen our spirits as Global Traveler celebrated its seventh annual Leisure Lifestyle Awards at the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills. With so many European winners this year, our Night in Europe theme transformed the luxury hotel’s meeting space and transported guests to Switzerland, Turkey, France and beyond.

The Global Traveler Leisure Lifestyle Awards honor the cream of the crop in destinations, airlines, cruise lines and hotels in the leisure and lifestyle travel categories. Sofitel’s beautiful venue, overlooking Beverly Hills, was our host venue for the fourth year as acceptees and guests said “Bonjour!” with GT. Liz Watts and Company treated guests to a range of performances celebrating the continent of Europe, including a booming opera performance at sunset, a rousing rendition of “Mamma Mia!” to celebrate Santoríni, Czech folk dancers and a corps of Irish step dancers.

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE BEST HISTORICAL ATTRACTIONS, INTERNATIONAL Turkey Second Consecutive Year BEST HISTORICAL ATTRACTIONS, DOMESTIC Williamsburg, Virginia BEST BEACHES Costa Rica Second Consecutive Year BEST ADVENTURE DESTINATION, INTERNATIONAL Thailand Third Consecutive Year BEST ADVENTURE DESTINATION, DOMESTIC Alaska BEST LEISURE DESTINATION IN THE UNITED STATES Nashville, Tennessee Second Consecutive Year BEST LEISURE DESTINATION IN AFRICA Botswana BEST LEISURE DESTINATION IN EUROPE Prague, Czech Republic BEST LEISURE DESTINATION IN ASIA Taipei, Taiwan Second Consecutive Year BEST LEISURE DESTINATION IN LATIN/SOUTH AMERICA Bogotá, Colombia

1.

WINNERS’ CIRCLE

2.

3.

BEST LEISURE DESTINATION IN MEXICO Guadalajara BEST LEISURE DESTINATION FOR GROUPS Italy BEST WEEKEND DESTINATION IN NORTH AMERICA Austin, Texas 4.

BEST WEEKEND DESTINATION IN THE WORLD Dublin, Ireland

5.

AWARD WINNERS 1. Alison Metcalfe, executive vice president, USA & Canada, Tourism Ireland

BEST NORTH AMERICAN SKI DESTINATION Telluride, Colorado

2. Pavol Sepelak, consul general, Czech Republic

BEST INTERNATIONAL SKI DESTINATION Niseko, Japan BEST CARIBBEAN ISLAND Curaçao

3. Brad Shih, director, Taiwan Tourism Bureau 4. Hon. Alfonso de Jesus Velez Rivas, consul general, Colombia 7.

8.

BEST ISLAND IN EUROPE Santoríni Sixth Consecutive Year

7. Kay Allen, deputy manager, Japan National Tourist Office 8. Bethany Dawson, marketing officer, Cook Islands 9. Robert Castro, senior director, marketing, Silversea Cruises

BEST FAMILY CRUISE LINE Celebrity Cruises

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5. Emanuela Boni, executive director, Italian Government Tourist Board 6. Julie Chase, vice president, chief marketing officer, Visit Austin

BEST ISLAND PACIFIC RIM Cook Islands Fourth Consecutive Year

BEST LUXURY CRUISE LINE Silversea Cruises Fourth Consecutive Year

6.

10. Heather Heverling, senior vice president, product management, National Geographic Expedition Cruises 9.

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10.

WINNERS’ CIRCLE 1.

BEST CRUISE LINE SUITES Owner’s Suites, Silversea Cruises Second Consecutive Year

2.

3.

BEST ADVENTURE CRUISE LINE National Geographic Expedition Cruises BEST SMALL-SHIP CRUISE LINE Paul Gauguin Cruises Fourth Consecutive Year 4.

BEST LARGE-SHIP CRUISE LINE Cunard Line Fourth Consecutive Year

5.

AWARD WINNERS 1. Diane Moore, president, Paul Gauguin Cruises

BEST RIVER CRUISE LINE Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection Second Consecutive Year

2. Jamie Paiko, senior director, marketing, Cunard 3. Shirnett Fleet, vice president, marketing, Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection

BEST CRUISE LINE ENTERTAINMENT Princess Cruises BEST CRUISE LINE DINING Seabourn Cruise Line

4. Tracy Diaz, senior manager, Shorex, Princess Cruises 7.

5. Kerry Lovegrove, director of entertainment operations, Princess Cruises

8.

6. Cathy Heriot, strategic key account manager, Seabourn Cruise Line

BEST CRUISE LINE SPAS Seabourn Cruise Line

7. Carlos Sosa, director of group sales, Meliá Hotels International

BEST CRUISE SHIP EXCURSIONS Princess Cruises Fourth Consecutive Year BEST CRUISE LINE REWARDS PROGRAM Norwegian Cruise Line’s Latitudes Rewards Program

6.

8. David Ridge, regional director of sales, Sandals Resorts 9. Fern Ottavio, director, passenger sales & marketing, TAP Air Portugal 10. Vaihiria Kelley, marketing director, Air Tahiti Nui 9.

10.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Experience Authentic Polynesia The only way to experience the pristine beauty of Polynesian paradise is with Paul Gauguin Cruises.

PAUL GAUGUIN CRUISES OFFERS luxurious, small ship cruising in Tahiti, French Polynesia, Fiji and the South Pacific. The m/s Paul Gauguin is the longest continually sailing cruise ship in this destination and offers 7- to 16-night voyages year-round. Designed specifically to sail the pristine lagoons of these islands, The Gauguin provides an up-close, authentic experience of Polynesia. In 2019, Paul Gauguin Cruises celebrates 10 years as an award-winning cruise line.

Paul Gauguin Cruises was honored as “Best Small-Ship Cruise Line” for the fourth consecutive year during Global Traveler’s seventh annual Leisure Lifestyle Awards and was named “#1 Mid-Size Ship Ocean Cruise Line” in the Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards 2019 readers’ survey. This is the third time in the past four years Paul Gauguin Cruises

ranked No. 1 in the category.

Aboard each sailing, the welcoming, hospitable spirit of French Polynesia is infused with a number of South Seas exclusives. The Gauguin’s troupe of Les Gauguines and Les Gauguins, are local Tahitians who lead Polynesian activities and serve as entertainers and storytellers.

The Gauguin features spacious oceanview suites and staterooms with nearly 70 percent of them offering private balconies; gourmet dining in all venues including menu specialties designed by celebrity chef Jean-Pierre Vigato; complimentary beverages including select wines and spirits, soft drinks, bottled water and hot beverages served throughout the ship; an in-cabin refrigerator replenished daily with soft drinks, beer and bottled water; shipboard entertainment; and all onboard

gratuities included. In select ports, the ship’s watersports marina is available to launch a kayak or paddle board from and a PADI certification scuba diving program is also offered.

The line offers complimentary and exclusive access to Motu Mahana, a private islet off the coast of Taha’a in French Polynesia, where guests can enjoy sunbathing, swimming, snorkeling, kayaking, Polynesian activities, a full-service bar, a floating lagoon bar and a delicious barbecue. Complimentary access is also offered at a private beach on a motu with views of Mt. Otemanu in Bora Bora for guests to enjoy for the day.

Experts in the fields of art, the culinary arts, music, magic, Polynesian life and culture, wine and the wonders of the deep offer insights, lectures, performances, demonstrations and workshops on select voyages of The Gauguin.

Through The Gauguin’s Moana Explorer program, offered in partnership with Te mana o te moana, a South Pacific marine education and conservation foundation, families are invited to discover and value the natural wonders of this breathtaking part of the world through hands-on, interactive learning on summer and December holiday voyages. While it is designed for children and teens ages 7–15, all family members are welcome to participate.

All-Inclusive, Luxury Small-Ship Voyages TAH IT I | FR EN CH P O LYN E SI A | FI J I | S O UT H PACI FI C

Getting the Blues Never Felt So Good

For more information contact your Travel Advisor, call 877-440-6114, or visit pgcruises.com/Lifestyle

WINNERS’ CIRCLE 1.

BEST CRUISE PORT Port Canaveral, Florida

2.

3.

BEST LUXURY LEISURE HOTEL GROUP IN THE WORLD Meliá Hotels International Fifth Consecutive Year BEST HOTEL CHAIN RESORTS The Ritz-Carlton BEST PET-FRIENDLY HOTELS Westin Hotels & Resorts Second Consecutive Year

4.

5.

6.

BEST FAMILY RESORT CHAIN IN THE WORLD Westin Hotels & Resorts Third Consecutive Year BEST ALL-INCLUSIVE RESORTS Sandals Resorts International Second Consecutive Year BEST TOUR OPERATOR Abercrombie & Kent

7.

1. Andrew Yiu, vice president, product, Air Canada 2. Russell Datz, national media relations manager, Volvo Car Group 3. Dennis Robbins, general manager, Hertz

BEST AIRPORT FOR RECREATION Hong Kong International Airport

4. Lori Augustine, managing director, HUB at LAX, United Airlines 5. Gokhan Sengul, corporate communications director, iGA İstanbul Airport 6. Maria Kritharioti, deputy director, Greek National Tourism Organization

BEST STOPOVER PROGRAM TAP Air Portugal

7. Captain John Murray, CEO and cruise port director, Port Canaveral 9.

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9.

AWARD WINNERS

BEST AIRPORT FOR LAYOVERS Zürich Kloten International Airport

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8.

SEPTEMBER 2019

8. Dondra Ritzenthaler, senior vice president sales & TS&S, Celebrity Cruises 9. Adam Malone, director of loyalty and online revenue, Norwegian Cruise Line

FOR

ALL THE MOMENTS WE STAND UP

JORDANA BREWSTER Stand Up To Cancer Ambassador

Since 2008, Major League BaseballÂŽ has supported Stand Up To Cancer in its mission to fund groundbreaking research and get treatments to patients faster than ever before.

Join us as we stand united to show our support for loved ones affected by cancer.

Visit StandUpToCancer.org/MLB

Photo By ANDREW ECCLES Stand Up To Cancer is a division of the Entertainment Industry Foundation (EIF), a 501(c)(3) charitable organization.

Major League Baseball trademarks and copyrights are used with permission of Major League Baseball. Visit MLB.com

CRUISE LINE OF THE YEAR CRUISE LINE OF THE YEAR Silversea Cruises

QUINT STATUS BEST LUXURY LEISURE HOTEL GROUP IN THE WORLD Meliá Hotels International Fifth Consecutive Year

WINNERS’ CIRCLE BEST LEISURE AIRLINE Air Tahiti Nui

SPECIAL ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS OUTSTANDING SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY Celebrity Cruises OUTSTANDING CUSTOMIZED SERVICES ATL Rewards Program at Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport OUTSTANDING ENVIRONMENTAL INITIATIVES United Airlines OUTSTANDING INNOVATIONS New İstanbul Airport

BEST AIRLINE FOR ONBOARD ENTERTAINMENT Air Canada BEST AIRLINE ONBOARD MENU Swiss International Air Lines First Class BEST PREMIUM-ECONOMY CLASS Air Canada BEST PET-FRIENDLY AIRLINE Delta Air Lines BEST LUXURY VEHICLE Volvo FAVORITE LUXURY WATCH BRAND Patek Philippe BEST LEISURE CAR RENTAL Hertz

1.

4.

BEST LIQUOR BRAND Johnnie Walker Blue Second Consecutive Year

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2.

3.

5.

PARTY PICTURES 1. James Ferguson, luxury travel advisor, UK and cruise specialist, Travel Edge/ Virtuoso; Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, Global Traveler; Steve Smotrys, vice president of sales, North America, Cunard 2. Kimberly Krol, editor in chief, Global Traveler; Iris Childress, member, Global Traveler Globility Board; Katie Skrzek, vice president and digital director, Global Traveler 1.

2.

3. Brad Shih, director, Taiwan Tourism Bureau; Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, Global Traveler 4. Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, Global Traveler; Fern Ottavio, director, passenger sales and marketing, TAP Air Portugal 5. Amy Ludwig; Eric Ludwig, member, Global Traveler Globility Board 6. Richard T. Evans, senior vice president, Global Traveler; Kimberly Krol, editor in chief, Global Traveler; Carly Allen, associate publisher and executive vice president, Global Traveler; Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, Global Traveler; Katie Skrzek, vice president and digital director, Global Traveler; Angelique Platas, associate editor, Global Traveler; Chris Sager, account executive, Global Traveler

3.

4.

5.

7. Alicia Cummings, vice president of marketing, Paul Gauguin Cruises; Carly Allen, associate publisher and executive vice president, Global Traveler; Diane Moore, president, Paul Gauguin Cruises

9.

6.

7.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

FRENCH POLYNESIA

BORA BORA One of the outermost island groups of French Polynesia, Bora Bora has been a hugely popular international tourist destination for more than 50 years. Its biggest city, Vaitape, holds nearly half of the island’s population.

Stunning vistas, sparkling water and luxurious hotels pave the way to unwind in paradise.

GETTING THERE Air Tahiti Nui operates non-stop flights to Papeete (PPT), on Tahiti, from Los Angeles (LAX). Once you arrive at French Polynesia’s international airport in Papeete, it’s easy to grab a flight with regional carrier Air Tahiti to Bora Bora (BOB), or make arrangements directly with your resort.

GETTING AROUND When you fly into Bora Bora, you won’t actually be on the main island; you’ll be on Motu Mute, an island just off the northwestern coast.

Catch a catamaran shuttle to the main town of Vaitape on Bora Bora.

Although Bora Bora is not that big, you’ll still need a way to get around.

With limited public transportation options, you will likely rent a car. You can also rent a scooter or bike if you don’t need to go too far. Check with your resort or hotel about complimentary shuttle service.

9–5 INTERCONTINENTAL BORA BORA RESORT & THALASSO SPA

This is room service — island style.

At InterContinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa, enjoy breakfast delivered to your villa in a traditional outrigger canoe. As breakfast is served on the deck of your guestroom, staff will take guests on a canoe tour. This is the definition of breakfast in paradise.

BORA BORA PHOTO: © MARTINMARK - DREAMSTIME.COM

ST. REGIS BORA BORA RESORT

Picture Bora Bora and luxury overwater bungalows come to mind. The vision becomes reality with a stay at St. Regis Bora Bora Resort, offering the largest overwater villas in the South Pacific. The resort delivers something for every sense, from plunge pools and a Lagoonarium to a spa, four restaurants and a swim-up bar.

RESTAURANT FARE MANUIA

Boasting a mix of indoor and outdoor seating steps from Matira Point, the southernmost tip of the island with stunning scenery, Restaurant Fare Manuia serves an interesting blend of menu options, from brick-oven pizza to Chinese and French dishes. The popular spot is the perfect stop for a delicious island lunch.

AFTER 5 FOUR SEASONS RESORT BORA BORA SPA

In this idyllic paradise, it’s only fitting to find the ultimate in relaxation at the Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora Spa. Some of the products

are sourced directly from the ocean, with Tahitian black pearl powder and algae incorporated into treatments. Couples can enjoy the Overwater Spa Suite, with treatment beds on glass panels above the lagoon.

LE MÉRIDIEN BORA BORA

Overlook Mount Otemanu during a stay at this oceanfront paradise. The 98 bungalows feature a range of options in contemporary Polynesian style.

A unique on-site offering is the Turtle Sanctuary, an ecological center dedicated to marine life.

There are also water sports in the lagoon, a spa, white sandy beaches and three restaurants.

RESTAURANT ST. JAMES

Experience French Polynesian fusion cuisine at Restaurant St. James, in Vaitape and situated lagoon-side. Indoor and alfresco dining are available, and the delicious food pairs well with the cocktails and wine also on offer.

Welcome to Travel Inspired by Tahiti.

Onboard our new fleet of Tahitian Dreamliners, you’ll be immersed in pure luxury.

Full lie-flat seats in Poerava Business. Spacious 2-3-2 seating in the truly Moana Premium Economy cabin. And all-inclusive Moana Economy that will remind you of the glory days of air travel. Make your dreams come true on Air Tahiti Nui.

TA H I T I

LO S A N G E L E S

PA R I S

T O K YO

AUCKLAND

SYDNEY

mice | VALENCIA

Warm and Welcoming Valencia attracts leading events from around the world.

REFLECTIONS: Museum of Science in the City of Arts and Sciences PHOTO: © ED FRANCISSEN DREAMSTIME.COM

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BY KIMBERLY KROL

MYRIAD CITIES AROUND the globe boldly proclaim their meeting, incentives, conferences and exhibition business among the best in the world, but in Valencia, Spain, that assertion is based in fact: In 2018 the Valencia Conference Centre was named, for the second time, World’s Best Convention Centre by the International Association of Conference Centres, a distinction held by only 10 other convention centers worldwide. Designed by Norman Foster, the venue has racked up a number of other accolades, including Best European Building by the Royal Institute of British Architects.

However, it’s more than just its award-winning facilities that draw conventions and events to the beautiful city, the third-largest in Spain and situated on the Mediterranean Sea. Other qualifiers demanding the attention of events planners the world over include nearly 300 days of sunshine per year; a wide range of hotel accommodations (more than SEPTEMBER 2019

17,000 hotel beds); accessibility by foot, metro, tram, bus and more; an easy, high-speed rail connection to Madrid; and an international airport with flights to more than 70 worldwide cities. Beyond this accessibility, Valencia is a safe, welcoming city; no wonder it attracts some of the world’s leading events from every corner of the globe.

Another Valencian event venue with a long list of superlatives attached to its name is Feria Valencia.

The oldest event organizer in Spain, in existence since 1917, it’s also the largest exhibition area in the country and one of the 10 largest in the world. Fairs, conventions, meetings, concerts — whatever the event, the 2.5 million-square-foot space with capacity for up to 20,000 people likely measures up to the task.

Its stunning architecture will be the first characteristic that strikes one as they approach the Santiago Calatrava-designed City of Arts and Sciences, a complex of scientific and cultural venues also available to host meetings and events. Located in an area of the city that was formerly the bed of the River Turia, today this gorgeous park area boasts breathtak-

ingly beautiful buildings: Hemisfèric, an IMAX cinema; Umbracle, a vantage point and parking area; the Science Museum; Europe’s largest aquarium, Oceanogràfic; the opera house, Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia; and the multifunctional Ágora space.

For a more intimate incentive opportunity involving the Calatrava stunner, consider Sea Saffron, created by Valencia native Eduardo Aguilar. After a personalized pick-up, Aguilar or another guide brings a personal touch to a private tour of the City of Arts and Sciences. One of Valencia’s most popular sites feels intimate and less touristy with this behind-the-scenes look. What follows truly cannot be missed, as Sea Saffron treats guests to a 10-course tapas tasting atop Valencia’s tallest building at sunset. The information, the views, the company and the cuisine all soar above and beyond expectations.

It’s impossible to discuss cuisine in Valencia without mentioning paella, the Spanish delicacy born here. Bring the group to Escuela de Arroces y Paella Valenciana to learn how to make the iconic

dish while also enjoying a tour of the market to purchase ingredients, perfectly paired Spanish wines and a tasting of other traditional Spanish dishes like torta.

For a unique seaside location for an event or meeting, Hotel Las Arenas Balneario Resort boasts 253 guestrooms, 21 meeting rooms and more than 4,800 square feet of function space, in addition to its stellar views and convenient beach location.

But whether one chooses a city or seaside location, an abundance of hotels meets any event needs, including The Westin Valencia, with nearly 30,000 square feet of meeting space, and Meliá Valencia Palacio de Congresos, boasting its own 18 meetings rooms conveniently located adjacent to the city’s convention center.

For a city accustomed to hosting a yearly event that draws visitors from around the globe and worldwide acclaim — Las Fallas, or the Festival of Fire — meetings, incentives, conventions and exhibitions are in its DNA. Feel at home hosting any event, big or small, in the warm, welcoming and award-winning city of Valencia.

UNIQUE VENUES

VALENCIAN INSTITUTE OF MODERN ART Inject a bit of art into your event at the Valencian Institute of Modern Art, near the old river bed and boasting nearly 200,000 square feet of space and eight galleries. ivam.es MONASTERY OF SAN MIGUEL DE LOS REYES This historic setting, dating to the mid-1500s and today housing the Valencian Library, brings a taste of Renaissance architecture and a touch of history to any event. bv.gva.es CHOZAS CARRASCAL Venture outside the city limits to Chozas Carrascal … because what’s a visit to Spain without experiencing its wine? Here visitors can also indulge in the new Wine Spa. chozascarrascal.com

BRILLIANT DESIGN:

Valencia Conference Centre PHOTO: © AHKENAHMED - DREAMSTIME.COM

SEPTEMBER 2019

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GT presents the winners of the 16th annual Wines on the Wing airline wine competition. p. 34

GT ’s publisher, Francis X. Gallagher, delivers his current travel favorites in this monthly e-newsletter.

TEL AVIV

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

BANGKOK p. 60 BORDEAUX p. 72 CAFAYATE p. 66 ITALY p. 70 HANOI p. 52 PORTO p. 62 SAVANNAH p. 63 WILLAMETTE VALLEY p. 58

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE AND ICE

raveler | 35

9–5 | CAPE TOWN

GT on the Road GT Members Section Captivating Cape Town

passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet.

Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle.

Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25).

The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million.

Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center.

Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background.

Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300.

While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

e new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world.

You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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BUSINESS destinations

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PANAMA CITY

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LOS ANGELES

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ST. PETERSBURG

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ALMATY

PHOTOS : © AQUANAUT4 - DREAMSTIME.COM, © KELLY MAGYARICS

LEISURE destinations rs visito s w o , ya w nders o ra Ma w e i l v a i R tur — que na i n notes, u e c h d e y wit l sed b er-fil u t a s l w o po from t estone m i l he vas t l a o r t u , as nat t May n e i c e. n the a ospher i B n Ka’a Sian

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PHILADELPHIA

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RIVIERA MAYA

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GORILLA TREKKING

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destination one | PANAMA CITY

Crossroads of the Americas Panama City grows ever higher, more dynamic and well-connected. BY TIM LEFFEL ON THE RISE: Panama City path PHOTO: © TIM LEFFEL

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PANAMA IS A MOUSE that roars on the international business scene. The isthmus that connects North and South America, though only about the size of Ireland or South Carolina, nevertheless proves a powerhouse economically thanks to the importance of the Panama Canal for shipping.

Visitors are often surprised by what they see in the country’s capital before their plane even touches down. Looking more like Miami than a sleepy Central American capital, densely packed skyscrapers adorn this gleaming metropolis. Every time I visit, I see another array of construction cranes erecting high-rise condo towers and office buildings. In the historic section of the city, more hip bars and boutique hotels pop up each year.

This site actually hosted one of the first settlements in the New World, with the Spanish forming a base here in 1519. When pirate Henry Morgan’s crew sacked the original city a century and a

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SEPTEMBER 2019

COMING AND GOING

U.S. citizens must have a passport valid three months past departure date. No visa is required for visits of less than 180 days.

No vaccinations are necessary.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Spanish

half later, though, the Spanish abandoned the settlement, moving five miles down the coast to establish the current Casco Viejo area. The city became synonymous with gold and silver, first when the precious metals moved from South America to Spain, then later during the 1800s gold rush in California, when a railroad across the isthmus made the crossing much easier. Panama City really started to take off in the modern age, however, when the world’s Atlantic-to-Pacific canal system opened.

Many scoffed at the Panama Canal as impossible, and it wasn’t until the second try that it finally became reality. In 1914 the first ship transited the 50-mile system. Thousands died in the construction process, mostly from tropical diseases.

The recent widening of the Canal, finished in mid-2016, though a much less lethal affair, carried a price tag that put the original one to shame: somewhere north of $5 billion.

Now the largest container ships can move between the oceans.

The Canal has been under full Panamanian control since 1999 and lies at the heart of the nation’s economy.

But because the U.S. military ran it for nearly a century, the Americans have had a strong impact on law, finance and infrastructure in the Canal Zone and beyond. This is most evident in the currency, as Panama uses the U.S. dollar.

This keeps the wheels of business turning smoothly, and the

country’s inflation rate historically has been one of the lowest in Latin America. Bilingual education runs throughout the school system, so many Panamanians entering the workforce are functionally fluent in English.

Despite the urban skyline and a population of 1.5 million, Panama City harbors a lot of green space and stands alone in the world in encompassing a rain forest within its city limits.

Since this jungle watershed abuts the Canal Zone, there’s built-in protection from city encroachment. Fronting the Pacific and just 30 miles from the Atlantic, the capital also proves a dream for those who want to get out on the water.

Prime spots for snorkeling, diving, fishing and island-hopping lie within easy reach.

When I first visited Panama City 12 years ago, though, it was a very different place for tourists. Most of the scant 1,400 hotel rooms were not up to the standards high-end travelers sought. The number increased 10-fold in the following decade, and each time I returned I saw a new opening from international brands like Le Méridien, Waldorf Astoria, Hard Rock, Marriott or Riu. Now most of the major chains boast a presence, and a Ritz-Carlton Reserve is in development on a nearby island. The local government has plowed plenty of resources into infrastructure as well. Now you can walk or bike on a 2.5-mile-long paved path between the Central Business District and the historic area, past marinas and a harbor.

LODGING

AMERICAN TRADE HOTEL Housed in a historic building facing a plaza, this four-story property evokes the 1920s and offers an array of restaurants, bars and a brewpub within a few blocks’ walk.

Av. Central, Plaza Herrara, Casco Viejo $$$$ THE BRISTOL PANAMA Long before the likes of Waldorf Astoria and JW Marriott arrived, this was the prestige address in the capital. The classic luxury hotel remains the first choice of many CEOs and visiting VIPs. Calle 49 Este $$$$ JW MARRIOTT PANAMA Opened originally as a Trump Tower before that name got complicated, the tallest building in the city boasts superlative facilities and spacious suites.

Calle Punta Colón, Punta Pacifica, Corregimiento de San Francisco $$$$

e mor t s o an c on It c 1 milli ed $ ad than ully lo o f a pt for ner shi er i a id cont t the w i s e tran n of th o i al. sect a Can am Pan FROM SEA TO SEA: Panama Canal PHOTOS: © TIM LEFFEL

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The local restaurant scene has come a long way in the past decade, too, now making the most of its mix of cultures. Blessed with a vast supply of fresh seafood, fertile volcanic soil and a cosmopolitan mix of residents immigrating here, this “crossroads of the Americas” covers the world map of food quite well.

With Star Alliance member Copa Airlines based here, flying to 33 countries, Panama City is well-connected to the rest of the world. It’s a dynamic destination to visit and in which to do business (with very few tariffs) and enjoy the nightlife.

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OLD AND NEW:

Panama City views of Casco Viejo (above), and boats and city skyline (left) PHOTOS: © DIEGO VITO CERVO DREAMSTIME.COM, © TIM LEFFEL

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT -5 Phone code: Country code: 507 Currency: U.S. dollar (local Balboa coins are equivalent to U.S. coins) Key industries: Shipping, finance, tourism, health care and transportation

CHECKING IN WITH DEMETRIO MADURO

General Manager, JW Marriott Panama Demetrio has a long history in hospitality, earning a degree in hotel management in Barcelona and starting out at a Marriott in Panama City 35 years ago.

He worked his way up the management ladder in Venezuela, Costa Rica, Mexico City and Puerto Vallarta before taking over as GM at one of the premier luxury hotels and business centers in his native city.

Panama City doesn’t bring immediate images to mind the way some capital cities do, but it has a lot going for it. What should people know about your city?

We are home to the vital Panama Canal connecting the Atlantic and the Pacific oceans. This is the only place in the world where you can easily have lunch on the Pacific Ocean and dessert on the Atlantic! In this city you have easy access to Panama’s award-winning fishing spots, beautiful islands, native indigenous communities, mountains and rain forests.

The skyline seems to change every year with new high-rise buildings, but the city has seen a lot of infrastructure changes this past decade. Which has had the most impact?

The Metro lines that started to carry passengers in 2014 have impacted transportation in the city in a big way, making it more accessible to move from one point to the other. Line 2 of an eventual four opened this year. Plus, the expansion of the Panama Canal to accommodate larger cargo ships has become a new and exciting tourist attraction.

The important role the Panama Canal plays in shipping is well-known. What other industries are active, and what is one advantage of doing business here?

Banking and logistics offer many opportunities now.

Panama City offers two big advantages for international business: The U.S. dollar is the official currency, and English is a very common second language.

For those checking into your hotel for the first time who have never been to Panama, where should they go for fun when work obligations are done?

Panama offers a variety of restaurants for an enjoyable gastronomic tour, with flavors from different cultures.

Casco Viejo, the Old Town area, is where they can walk through the history of Panama and enjoy nice spots for a drink. Not so far from there, the Biomuseo biodiversity museum focuses on our natural history. See the Miraflores Locks of the Panama Canal in action at the visitors’ center, or take a boat trip that offers a partial crossing of the Canal.

ON THE RISE: JW Marriott Panama (above), and Demetrio Maduro (left) PHOTOS: © JW MARRIOTT PANAMA

DINING DONDE JOSÉ This 16-seat modern take on Panamanian flavors is the toughest reservation to get in the city, so go all out with the tasting menu.

(If you can’t get a table, try Chef José Carles’ more casual spot, Lo Que Hay in Casco Viejo.)

Av. Central 1100, Casco Viejo $$$$ LABORATORIO MADRIGAL Run by Michelin-starred chef Andrés Madrigal, this delight for all senses changes its menu regularly depending on what’s fresh. Famous for ceviche, seafood and inventive dishes catering to those with dietary restrictions.

Avenida A, Casco Viejo $$$ MAITO RESTAURANTE Named one of the top 50 restaurants in Latin America, this suburban hideaway fuses Panamanian tradition with modern techniques and sources many of its ingredients direct from farmers.

Calle 50 $$$$

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HISTORY LESSONS:

Biomuseo (left), and Casco Viejo (below) PHOTOS: © TIM LEFFEL

DIVERSIONS See big ships and pleasure yachts passing through the Canal at the Miraflores Locks visitors’ center. There’s a museum providing historic context and a guide on the observation platform to answer questions. Book a day cruise on a tourist boat to see the locks from the water.

The two oldest sections of Panama City are UNESCO World Heritage sites. The original Spanish settlement is now a collection of ruins apart from a gold altar from the 1600s that survived. The Casco Viejo area houses the president’s office and the restored national theater. This lively area features stores, coffee shops, boutique hotels and places to eat.

The Biomuseo opened in 2014 and gives a fascinating glimpse into the forming of this isthmus and its impact on the world’s ecology. Housed in a striking Frank Gehry building, it makes a good choice for visiting families.

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INFO TO GO

Tocumen International Airport lies 13 miles from the Central Business District.

The hub of Copa Airlines serves 16 million passengers annually. A taxi to central hotels usually costs about $30 from the official stand right outside baggage claim — ignore the aggressive touts. A car service will run $40–60.

Uber or Cabify will cost $14–25.

CONNECTING THE WORLD TO CHICAGO AND CHICAGO TO THE WORLD

CHICAGO'S O'HARE AIRPORT IS NOW

THE BUSIEST AIRPORT IN THE U.S. IN 2018, O’HARE MADE MORE THAN 900K ARRIVALS AND DEPARTURES.

VISIT www.flychicago.com

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/flychicago

stateside | LOS ANGELES

Lure of L.A. Los Angeles picks up the pace with new developments and activities. BY RON BERNTHAL AS TEMPERATURES BEGIN to cool in Los Angeles (average September high temperature is a beautiful 83 degrees), the city hums with activities. The arts scene buzzes with new exhibits at The Broad, The Getty Center, the Geffen Contemporary at MOCA and at Los Angeles County Museum of Art, where a new $659 building proposal by the award-winning Swiss architect Peter Zumthor is moving forward.

For sports fans, Los Angeles offers more sports franchises, events and venues than any other city in the world and will host the 2028 Summer Olympics, the third summer Olympics for the City of Angels.

For all leisure and business visitors to Los Angeles County (about 50 million domestic and international visitors annually), there are 88 incorporated cities to explore; dozens of new hotels; dining venues; attractions; new architecturally savvy, mixed-use developments; and perhaps best of all, a terrain that boasts ocean beaches, mountain parks, a famous valley crisscrossed by freeways, fog-shrouded coastal towns under a canopy of palms, and an urban core that boggles the mind with fascinating only-in-L.A. juxtapositions. For me, I listen to Randy Newman’s “I Love L.A.” or 1970s Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young as I drive anywhere within L.A. County’s 4,084 square miles, loving it all.

All the new building projects in Los Angeles — and there are hundreds — shape the city in better and sometimes not-so-good ways. Google is transforming Howard Hughes’ historic Spruce Goose hangar in Playa Vista into a state-of-the-art office and production facility, and Apple continues to lease additional office space — just two signs of how tech firms are expanding their

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presence in Hollywood’s backyard.

Foreign investments pour into greater L.A.’s industrial and real estate markets. Several billion-dollar developments across Los Angeles have already broken ground, and others wait on deck. The Los Angeles Stadium and Entertainment District at Hollywood Park is one of the more highly anticipated mega-developments in L.A. The 298-acre, mixed-use district will include a 70,000-seat, open-air stadium; a 6,000-seat performing arts venue; more than 1.5 million square feet of retail and office space; a 300-room hotel; 2,500 residences; and more than 25 acres of park space.

These massive mixed-use projects will add thousands of new residential units and tens of thousands of square feet of retail and office space. The Grand, a Frank Gehry-designed $1 billion mixed-use project, will remake a section of downtown into a cultural epicenter. It sits across the street from the Disney Concert

NEW IN TOWN:

Artists’ renderings of Frank Gehry’s Burbank complex designed to look like icebergs floating along the freeway (top) and Warner Center Promenade project PHOTOS: © GEHRY PARTNERS LLP RENDERING BY SORA, © UNIBAIL RODAMCO WESTFIELD

FRESH LOOK:

Artists’ renderings of San Pedro Public Market (top) and the proposed 77-story building at 333 South Figueroa PHOTOS : © RAPT STUDIOS, © AUROIA

Hall and The Broad Museum. The Grand will feature two skyscrapers housing 200,000-plus square feet of retail; a 430-seat luxury movie theater; and a 314-room Equinox Hotel.

The $1.2 billion Angels Landing development will open in 2028 as a city-within-a-city featuring two hotels, 425 apartments, 250 condominiums, a school, retail space and a food hall. The 889-room InterContinental Los Angeles Downtown opened last year with 100,000 square feet of meeting space in the Wilshire Grand Center, a 73-story mixed-use complex that will be the tallest U.S. building west of Chicago until the 77-story skyscraper at 333 South Figueroa is completed.

Architect Gehry also designed a pair of office buildings for Warner Bros. Entertainment to resemble “icebergs floating along the freeway.” Gehry Partners’ plans for the 800,000-square-foot complex will extend the entertainment company’s current building in the Burbank Media District, a hub for major media and entertainment companies. And the Los Angeles Convention Center is displaying the largest public art project in the country. The mural, measuring more than 400 yards long, was hand-painted by more than 7,000 people in Los Angeles County. Called Shaping LA, the work was created by the national nonprofit organization Portraits of Hope.

In a sizzling L.A. hotel scene, the 250-room NoMad Hotel opened in 2018 in a 1920s building once home to the headquarters of the Bank of Italy. It offers a lovely rooftop pool deck available for private events. West Hollywood boasts a number of relatively new properties, many with rooftop pools or event space with views.

The 1 Hotel West Hollywood brings health and wellness amenities to Sunset Boulevard. On the west side of L.A., the 170-room Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills and the 394-room Fairmont Century Plaza opened last summer in Century City.

In L.A.’s beach cities, new hotels include a dualbranded Courtyard by Marriott and Residence Inn in Marina del Rey, and the 271-room Santa Monica Proper Hotel emerges as an architectural wonder just seven blocks from the ocean. The property, opened in June, offers an indoor-outdoor rooftop playground with a pool, cabanas and the Calabra bar/bistro. Downstairs, guests enjoy Onda restaurant, serving innovative California- and Mexico-inspired cuisine, and a large Ayurvedic spa. In nearby Malibu, the pricey Nobu Ryokan Malibu opened its stunning, 16-room beachfront property in 2017.

Marriott’s first AC Hotel in Los Angeles opened earlier this year in Beverly Hills. The 142-room property lies close to Rodeo Drive, the Los Angeles County

SCENIC DRIVES

Museum of Art and the Beverly Center shopping mall.

The AC Hotel South Bay also opened this summer near Los Angeles International Airport, offering 180 rooms; a rooftop restaurant and bar; and 2,000 square feet of meeting space.

Outdoor dining is an institution in Los Angeles, and hundreds of sun-splashed venues offer the intoxicating combination of excellent cuisine and exceptional views.

At Nobu Malibu, every table boasts an unobstructed view of the ocean, and Sorra opened this year with a rooftop bar in the heart of Hollywood. Head to Sawyer on Sunset Boulevard in Silver Lake for a table on the tiled patio and an order of lobster rolls, or reserve a table at the busy NoMad Hotel rooftop with its great food, cocktails and views of downtown L.A.

About an hour before sunset, drive north from Beverly Hills on Benedict Canyon Drive to Mulholland Drive, then go east. At 7701 Mulholland you can stop at the Universal City overlook, and then continue eastward toward the Hollywood Hills. The road rises, dips and curves, passing serene residential real estate and additional overlooks. The day drive is easy; after dark it’s more adventurous but unforgettable.

For beautiful ocean and mountain views take the Pacific Coast Highway — known locally as PCH or Route 1 — north along the coast from Santa Monica to Sycamore Cove Beach at Point Mugu State Park, a 33-mile drive. Along the way stop at the fascinating Getty Villa (reserve tickets online) and have lunch at Malibu’s Marmalade Café before continuing to Sycamore Cove or into the mountainous hiking areas above the beach.

Take the 110 Freeway south to San Pedro, known as the Port of Los Angeles, and an undiscovered gem of L.A. County (about 25 miles, 35–50 minutes). Visit its historic downtown and the interesting AltSea project on the main shipping channel, offering aquaculture, underwater robotics and more. Tour the restored World War II battleship USS Iowa and eat fresh fish and seafood at San Pedro Fish Market, part of the revitalized San Pedro Public Market project.

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9–5 | ST. PETERSBURG

Russian Evolution St. Petersburg emerges as a top cultural and business destination. BY KRISTY ALPERT ART APPRECIATION: The State Hermitage Museum

t s buil rg wa u b s a r v ete he Ne St. P a of t t l e e m d o fs in the ries o e s e a h t on ning it River s, ear d the n a l s ice of n e 100 i V e l me ‘th autifu nickna y’s be t i c e t e a .’ Th he St North ably t t o lso n ( a ms eum) s u museu M . itage s title Herm to thi e t u b contri

PHOTO: © KRISTY ALPERT

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LONG BEFORE THE FORMATION of the European Union, or even the United States for that matter, St. Petersburg, Russia, stood as a strong city with a keen eye for globality. Prior to the city’s founding in 1703, Emperor Peter the Great was said to have brought in hundreds of foreign experts from around Europe to consult on the city’s architecture, construction and administration in order to fulfill his vision of creating the “window onto Europe.” The results from his work are still evident today as St. Petersburg remains one of the largest hubs for multinational corporations.

St. Petersburg acted as the capital of the Russian Empire for more than 200 years before

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the capital moved to Moscow in 1918, but today St. Petersburg is second to Moscow only in terms of population (5 million compared to Moscow’s 10 million). St. Petersburg’s economy is growing faster than Russia’s as a whole as new industries emerge and the real estate market experiences the largest boom the city has seen in decades, followed by transportation and manufacturing growth. Locals refer to the city as Russia’s northern capital, and St. Petersburg’s strategic position on the Neva River, along with its valuable geo-economic situation and proximity to the rest of Asia, Europe and the Middle East, make it an ideal place for doing business.

The workday typically begins at 9 a.m. in St. Petersburg, and office workers and managers alike generally arrive in formal business attire (business suits for men and below-the-knee skirts for women). Traffic is notoriously congested during rush hour in the city, and many businesspeople take the city’s highly efficient and affordable (not to mention beautiful) metro to get to and from the office. Town cars (like the ones from Blacklane) have become popular in recent years, as business professionals can get a little work done while sitting in traffic. The city also operates numerous trams, buses and marshrutkas (private minibuses that run a fixed route between two places); and while the systems are incredibly affordable (mere pocket change gets you through the entire city), they are often difficult for visitors to navigate. Taxis are still unreliable in the city, as after the fall of the Soviet Union, anyone with a car could operate as a taxi. Although the system is improving, it’s still best to opt for a private town car or use the city’s easy-to-navigate

metro system (many signs throughout the city are in Russian and English).

Russian business culture is relationship-based, and the culture in St. Petersburg takes that to a new level, with many mid-morning meetings turning into impromptu “get to know you” lunches. Impress clients with a formal lunch at Restaurant Palkin, the oldest restaurant in St. Petersburg and a favorite of the tsars and tsarinas.

The restaurant, in the central Nevsky Prospekt district and opened in 1785, features modern menus and an atmosphere of effortless elegance. The restaurant reopened in 2002 following extensive renovations and now features multiple dining halls including the fireplace hall, the chess hall and the large hall (along with the bar and the red foyer). The restaurant is a treat, even for locals, and it’s best to make a reservation a few days in advance to ensure a table will be available during lunch hours. Make sure to try the restaurant’s famous handmade burrata or its version of the popular Russian salad Olivier, which comes with fish eggs and is served with quail and beef tongue.

For a less formal but equally gastronomically impressive lunch option, Café Dreamers proves a favorite for young professionals or any diners who deem themselves gourmands. Located off the Fontanka River near Nevsky Prospekt, the café presents a fun, young vibe where industrial lights hang from the ceiling just beyond murals and whitewashed brick walls. The wine list is as creative as the cuisine, but it’s the restaurant’s coffee that has locals buzzing, as each batch of coffee beans is micro-roasted specifically for the café.

The workday typically lasts until 6 or 7 p.m. — even during the White Nights of June and July when the sun does not set and the night sky turns a blue hue instead of going fully dark — and it’s common practice, especially on Fridays, to head out for drinks with co-workers before heading to dinner. Wine bars have come into fashion in Russia, where imported wine was once hard to come by.

Now places like Prosto Vino and Vinnyy Shkaf prove the hottest places to be after work hours as bartenders pour imported wines from France, Italy and Portugal.

Although Russia is best known for its vodka, and many meals begin and end with an ounce of the clear spirit, while in town try Russia’s lesser-known spirit, polugar, a historic form of vodka made from rye or other grains, giving it a natural bready taste and aroma.

RUSSIAN ICONS: Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood (left), caviar and blini (right), and Russian nesting dolls (bottom) PHOTOS: © KRISTY ALPERT

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after 5 | ALMATY

Almaty, All Night Kazakhstan’s hot spot elevates the entertainment with live music and rooftop bars. BY PATRICK ADAMS

FOR YEARS, IT WAS the picture of post-Soviet decline.

The former capital of Kazakhstan and the country’s most populous city, Almaty was dreary and run-down, a sprawling, cheerless urban center in the shadow of the Tien Shan mountains.

And then there was oil.

Flush with petrodollars, the Kazakh economy expanded by half in the span of five years, setting off a building boom that would transform Almaty. Suddenly, the city known, if at all, as the birthplace of the apple became a destination with stylish nightclubs and rooftop bars, exotic restaurants and luxury hotels — like the Almaty JW Marriott, once the tallest building in Central Asia.

That boom long since faded, but Almaty’s appeal endures, and with Kazakhstan’s recent easing of visa restrictions, it’s emerged as one of Europe’s most intriguing new hot spots, welcoming not just business travelers but tourists from around the world.

A big reason for that is Almaty’s edgy, all-night entertainment, including a highly regarded live music scene with everything from hard rock and hip hop to folk, jazz, blues and more. During

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summer months, the city’s main stage is Sky Bar Street, a collection of rooftop bars where well-heeled Kazakhs go for people-watching and pricey cocktails.

You’ll find a more casual crowd at Chukotka. Long a fixture of the city’s nightlife, the bar is situated in the Park of 28 Panfilov Guardsmen, so named for the 28 soldiers of an Almaty infantry unit killed by Nazis in a key 1941 battle outside Moscow. It’s LGBTQ+-friendly, popular with locals and foreigners alike, and features live music from 9 p.m. to midnight, at which point the DJ takes over until dawn.

For a quieter night out, sample some of the world-class wines at Arba wine bar and learn about the recent revival of Kazakhstan’s viniculture. Or take in a show at the Abay State Opera & Ballet Theatre, Almaty’s premier cultural venue with performances four times a week and tickets starting at less than $2. Save the rest for shopping at the Green Bazaar, Almaty’s most famous local market which sits, it’s said, on the old Silk Road — or to the Mega AlmaAta, the biggest mall in town.

NIGHT LIGHTS:

Beautiful view of the glowing Fountain in Dendra Park, Almaty PHOTO: © MARINA PISSAROVA - DREAMSTIME. COM

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neighborhoods | PHILADELPHIA

Keepin’ It Real South Philadelphia blends homey vibes with vibrant new energy. BY ANGELIQUE PLATAS CHEESESTEAKS CHOICE: Rivals Geno’s Steaks (left), and Pat’s King of Steaks (below) PHOTOS: © SCOTT BIALES - DREAMSTIME.COM, © JON BILOUS - DREAMSTIME.COM

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uniquely South Philadelphia yet modern and swanky, the famous Bok Building offers UPPER a bit of everything.

NORTH Built in 1936, Edward W. Bok Technical High School — or Bok Vocational High T School — welcomed students across a ES NORTH W plethora of studies, from welding and auto CE NT ER CI TY mechanics to culinary arts. In 2013 the historic building went up for public auction SOUTH and now boasts some of the most exciting restaurants, event spaces, homemade boutiques and rooftop bars in the area.

A local favorite gaining city-wide popularity, Bok Bar’s seasonal rooftop bar boasts one of the best views in the city. The former high school, now community space, is located in a residential area, offering an unobstructed city view and far less street noise than Center City’s rooftop locales. A newer resident in the building, Irwin’s was affectionately named for the building’s architect and boasts Mediterranean-inspired small plates with a twist, cocktails and sweeping views from the terrace.

Attend seasonal fitness classes on the rooftop or in the high school gym and tenant studios. Keep an eye out for local events like movie nights and tours through the local businesses housed in the building.

The South Philadelphia streets are lined with homes where residents sit outside chatting and people-watching. The region’s strong Italian heritage is palpable, but the neighborhood is definitely diverse. With so many old, new and up-and-coming local businesses and community events, South Philadelphia offers a blend of thriving cultures.

SOU

AFTER A WHIRLWIND FEW years of hosting Pope Francis in 2015, the Democratic National Convention in 2016, the NFL Draft in 2017 and even the city’s first-ever Super Bowl win followed by an epic parade in 2018, it’s no wonder Philadelphia earned GQ’s City of the Year, 2018 title. With such an exciting ascension, it seems “trust the process” isn’t just for the 76ers basketball team — it’s for the whole city.

Between Philadelphia’s rich American history, inspiring present and skyis-the-limit future, this city is having a moment, and nowhere more so than in South Philadelphia. Possibly the largest neighborhood in the city, South Philadelphia boasts culture, international flair and authentic neighborhood personality.

A bit of advice to travelers: Come hungry and keep heading south.

Start at the Italian Market, then head to the Latin section, boasting the now-famous Mexican restaurant South Philly Barbacoa, located just around the corner from Pat’s King of Steaks and Geno’s Steaks — the famous cheesesteak rivalry-turned-obligatory tourist visit.

The established but somehow still-growing foodie scene along Passyunk Avenue represents the neighborhood well, as it cuts through the city’s gridorganized streets in a diagonal line, commanding your attention. Walk south along East Passyunk Avenue, exploring the upwards of 20 restaurants consistently making Philadelphia Magazine’s Best Restaurants list; unique stores; and rotating, year-round outdoor festivals and events.

Dozens of local boutiques and quirky shops line the avenue, including The Singing Fountain, surrounded by fresh produce during farmers markets in the summer and Christmas carolers in the winter.

The farther south you go, the more mom-and-pop eateries, dress shops, men’s tailors, vintage shops and dive bars you’ll find, but for something

ST

PHILADELPHIA

FOODIE LOVE

friends & family | RIVIERA MAYA

The Beach and Beyond Combining business with pleasure is a breeze in Riviera Maya. BY BOB CURLEY

BY THE SEA: Tulum Beach PHOTO: © LEUNGPHOTOGRAPHY DREAMSTIME.COM

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MEZCLAR NEGOCIOS CON PLACER — mixing business with pleasure — is easy to do in Mexico’s Riviera Maya. In fact, hospitality is often the point of corporate trips to the Caribbean coast of Mexico.

Here business travelers frequently come to take part in meetings at the region’s many conference resorts or call on companies in real estate development and construction firms involved in developing resorts along the 80-mile coastline between Cancún and the Riviera Maya.

In a destination with seemingly endless activities and nearly as many luxury resorts to choose from, the bigger accomplishment might be to work in some productivity along with the fun, not the other way around. The region’s name offers two clues to the Riviera Maya’s tremendous popularity: beautiful beaches on the azure waters of the Caribbean Sea

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and the ancient ruins of Maya cities like Tulum and Chichén Itzá, the latter dating back to the first century.

Riviera Maya also wows visitors with unique natural wonders, from water-filled cenotes — natural limestone pools used by the ancient Mayas — to the vast Sian Ka’an Biosphere. This nearly 1 millionacre nature preserve and World Heritage site features undeveloped beaches, mangrove-fringed lagoons and jungles prowled by jaguars and tapirs.

Sian Ka’an, a Mexican national park, lies at the southern end of Riviera Maya, close to Tulum, a once-sleepy coastal community that has become a hot destination for low-key, high-end tourism in recent years. The KASA Hotel Parota is typical of the boutique luxury resorts of Tulum but also welcomes families of all ages; the hotel’s location

INFO TO GO

Cancún International Airport is the main gateway to Riviera Maya, with daily non-stop service from cities across the United States, Canada and around the world provided by dozens of airlines including American Airlines, United Airlines, Delta Air Lines, Southwest, JetBlue, Spirit, Frontier, Air Canada and WestJet. Ground transportation options include the Cancún Shuttle, Cancún Taxi and bus service from CUN to Playa del Carmen as well as hotel shuttles and rental cars available at the airport.

Cruise ships call at the island of Cozumel, connected by ferry to nearby Playa del Carmen.

COOL POOL:

Divers in a cenote PHOTO: © STEFANO BARZELLOTTI DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING FAIRMONT MAYAKOBA This AAA Five-Diamond resort offers a daily Discovery Club & Adventure Camp for kids, Willow Tree spa with treetop treatment rooms, reef diving and nature trails.

Carretera Federal Cancún, Playa del Carmen $$$$$

in the booming Aldea Zama resort community puts guests close to Sian Ka’an and Tulum’s downtown, beaches and Maya historic sites. Many of Tulum’s best restaurants are located in town (walking distance from the beach) and include the popular Taqueria Honorio, known for its breakfast tacos and cochinita pibil, a traditional, slow-roasted pork dish.

Popular with visitors, ecotours take in Sian Ka’an’s diverse wildlife, pristine beaches and Maya historic sites, but it’s hardly the only place on the Riviera Maya to fill your senses with the region’s natural beauty. Grupo Xcaret operates a network of ecological and cultural parks along the Riviera Maya coastline, including Xcaret with its underground rivers and coral reef aquarium; Xel-Ha, where you can swim in a cenote or mountain bike in the jungle; and Xplor, which boasts zip lines and amphibious vehicle tours.

The newest park, Xavage, features a ropes course, jet boat rides and whitewater rafting. Couples and families alike can choose from a host of activities. A stay at the Hotel Xcaret México is “fun-inclusive,” meaning guests can access all of the Grupo Xcaret parks as well as a dozen on-site restaurants, a spa, tours and transportation between attractions.

The Hotel Xcaret México has a conference center with about 13,000 square feet of meeting space, making it a great “bleisure” destination, but it’s hardly the biggest in the Riviera

Maya. Cancún, a huge destination for pharmaceutical, medical and technology conventions and other incentives, has more than a dozen large meeting hotels as well as the 150,000-square-foot Cancún International Convention Center.

The all-inclusive Iberostar Cancún resort in the Cancún Hotel Zone houses the Peninsula Convention Center, the only beachfront convention facility in the city. Other Cancún hotels that attract business travelers as well as vacationers include the Moon Palace (home to the Moon Palace Arena and convention center), the JW Marriott, the Paradisus and Grand Fiesta Americana Coral Beach resorts, the elegant Ritz-Carlton, the youthful Hard Rock Cancún, the Hyatt Ziva, the boutique Nizuc, and the Grand Park Royal & Oasis resorts.

The Ritz-Carlton features one of Cancún’s best restaurants, the Mediterranean fine-dining Fantino, but many of the other top eateries are located on the lagoon side of the hotel zone. These include Fred’s House, serving both Maine and Caribbean lobster as well as tikin xic, Mayan-style whole fish prepared with adobo de achiote and sour oranges and grilled over a wood fire.

The JW Marriott in some ways proves the ideal bleisure resort in Cancún, in part because it pairs — literally and figuratively — with the Marriott Cancún Resort. Fresh off a $40 million renovation of both properties, the JW is one of the most luxurious hotels on the Cancún beach, making it the preferred choice for couples

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HOTEL XCARET MÉXICO This all-inclusive resort hotel’s amenities include access to a diverse line-up of family-friendly eco-parks including Xcaret, Xel-Ha, Xplor and Xavage.

Carretera Federal Chetumal-Puerto Juárez Km. 282, Solidaridad, Playa del Carmen $$$$$ JW MARRIOTT CANCÚN RESORT & SPA Elegant surroundings, fine dining and a conference center shared with the family-friendly Marriott Cancún Resort make this a great bleisure resort.

Boulevard Kukulcan Km 14.5, Cancún Hotel Zone $$$$

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SHOPPING SPOT: Playa del Carmen

PHOTO: © PABLO HIDALGO DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING LA CUEVA DEL CHANGO Regional Mexican cuisine served in an intimate, imagined cave provides an escape from the bustle of downtown Playa del Carmen.

Ave. 38 N., Mz. 4, Lote 3, Zazil-ha, Playa del Carmen $$ FRED’S HOUSE Enjoy fresh seafood and raw bar selections served on a deck overlooking the Cancún lagoon.

Blvd. Kukulcan, Cancún Hotel Zone $$$$ TAQUERÍA HONORIO Try a local treat with traditional tacos for breakfast in downtown Tulum.

Ave. Satélite S., Sm. 10, Lote 3, Centro, Tulum $$

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looking for after-work pampering and relaxation. The Kids Club at the Marriott Cancún, on the other hand, is great for families.

Rooms at the JW feature Maya-inspired designs, including woodworking accents incorporating images of local quetzal birds and other wildlife. The private Club 91 lounge offers food and drink with a 14th-floor view, and the JW Lobby Bar has 150 different margaritas on the menu. Dining options include an upscale Japanese sushi and teppanyaki restaurant, an Argentine steakhouse, high-end Italian and the Tex-Mex Sedona Grill. The resort features both family and adults-only free-form pools, and the spa boasts an Olympic-sized pool, traditional Maya massages and detoxification rituals, plus enough fitness classes to keep spouses happy while their significant other is busy at conference sessions or meetings.

Business travelers who prefer an all-inclusive experience can opt for resorts like the adults-only Paradisus in Cancún or Playa del Carmen, or the Grand Park Royal and Oasis resorts in Cancún or Cozumel. Located roughly halfway between Cancún and Tulum, Playa del Carmen’s bustling downtown hosts specialty shops, restaurants and tequila shops, mostly located along Fifth Avenue. La Cueva del Chango (The Monkey Cave) downtown, one of the top restaurants in the Riviera Maya, serves authentic Mexican cuisine in a lushly beautiful setting; the mole chicken is excellent.

Many of the city’s beach resorts, including those in the upscale Playacar development, lie within an easy walking distance to town and to the ferry terminal to Cozumel, a popular day-tripping SEPTEMBER 2019

destination for diving and exploring the Chankanaab ecopark.

The island’s several resorts cater to both business and leisure travel, including the beachfront InterContinental Presidente Cozumel Resort and Spa and the high-rise Westin Cozumel, where guests can combine a beach stay with golf at the nearby Cozumel Country Club.

Just up the coast from Playa del Carmen, the exclusive, 1,600acre Mayakoba enclave encompasses some of the most luxurious resorts in the Riviera Maya, including the Fairmont Mayakoba, the Banyan Tree Mayakoba, the Andaz Mayakoba Resort Riviera Maya and the Rosewood Mayakoba. The resorts and Mayakoba’s El Camaleón Golf Course all connect via electric boats that shuttle guests using the natural waterways coursing through the property.

Playa Mujeres, an emerging resort destination less than 10 miles north of Cancún, while not technically part of the Riviera Maya, nevertheless offers a less developed alternative to the Cancún Hotel Zone. It includes resorts like the 5-star all-inclusive Atelier Playa Mujeres (set between the beach and a golf course); the adults-only Excellence Playa Mujeres; and the new Grand Palladium Costa Mujeres Resort & Spa, with daily kids programs and a Rafa Nadal Tennis Center.

Playa Mujeres, like Playa del Carmen, is a port town with a ferry terminal linking the mainland to an intriguing offshore destination. Isla Mujeres attracts visitors with its tranquil Playa Norte beach, MUSA Underwater Sculpture Museum and an annual Whale Shark Festival offering the unique opportunity to swim with the world’s largest fish.

bucket list | GORILLA TREKKING

Close Encounters Meet the majestic mountain gorillas of Africa in their natural habitat. BY MARLENE GOLDMAN

FAMILY TIME: (Left to right) A gorilla mom and baby, a silverback, a gorilla mom and baby, and a silverback PHOTOS: © MARLENE GOLDMAN

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AS I STARE INTO THE EYES of a 400-plus-pound silverback, I feel like we are sharing a Zen moment. The male mountain gorilla reclines in the leafy brush while a few babies cause a ruckus playing in the treetops overhead. Paying no attention, he closes his eyes and dozes off, not bothered by their antics or our small group of tourists. Every so often he checks the nails on his weathered hands, rolls over and goes back to sleep.

The youngsters continue swinging in the trees, putting on a show.

Around the corner moms, babies and teenagers appear as in awe of us as we are of them. One of the juveniles shows off his dance moves, twirling in circles until he is so dizzy he falls.

“He’s drunk on heliconia leaves,” John, our lead guide, says. Playing it up for the camera, the little dancer poses for photos and then wrestles with another juvenile in front of his audience. Behind the dancing gorilla, an even tinier baby mimics his actions. We see a mom nursing another infant and several other females tending to their young. We sit and watch as the family allows us into its world without hesitation.

We are with the Oruzogo family group of habituated mountain gorillas in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Lying in the Ruhija east sector of the park, the family has been open to tourist visits since late 2011. Named after a common plant locally known as Oruzogoto, the habituation of Oruzogo group began in December 2009. At the time of my visit, the family had 17 members including three silverbacks, five babies and two juveniles.

Bwindi, also called “The Place of Darkness” due to its misty slopes

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SEPTEMBER 2019

and dense treetops, is home to more than half the 1,000 mountain gorillas left in the world. This ancient, montane and lowland forest spans 128 square miles and was named a UNESCO World Heritage site thanks to its biodiversity and the large number of endangered species it supports.

Gorilla trekking in the thick vegetation is unpredictable as far as how long tourists have to hike to get to the family they are visiting, though rangers head out well in advance to track where the families are located each day.

Our adventure began with a 20-minute drive to the start of a trail.

We were all prepared for a slog with multiple water bottles, heavy trekking boots and full daypacks. The first porter cleared the trail with the whoosh of a machete hacking the underbrush. Then, not even 15 minutes from the start, we found the Oruzogo family ready and waiting for a soulenriching hour of primate bonding and entertainment.

Mountain gorillas, which today number about 1,000 total — up from 300 in 1960 — only live in Bwindi and along the dormant volcanic Virunga mountain range, which stretches across Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park, Uganda’s 13-square-mile Mgahinga Gorilla National Park and Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Though they are still endangered, they remain the only great apes with an increasing population, thanks mainly to tourism dollars, which in turn prompted local governments to help protect them.

“In the 1980s the population was declining, and the thought was they would be extinct by 2000,” says Tara Stoinski, president and CEO, Dian

Fossey Gorilla Fund, the world’s longest-running and largest organization dedicated solely to gorilla conservation.

In 1967 the American zoologist Dian Fossey, who had been doing research on mountain gorillas in the forests of Congo, fled from political insecurity and established her research base in what is now the Karisoke Research Center in Rwanda. Her conservation campaign of the mountain gorillas and fight against poaching in this area ultimately ended in her murder in 1985. She was buried at the research center next to the grave of her favorite gorilla, Digit.

Today the Fossey Fund is building a new gorilla conservation center in Rwanda, to be named the Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund, which will house the 50-year-old Karisoke Research Center. It will also include traditional and living laboratories, classrooms for training and public education, meeting spaces, a library and computer lab, an interactive public exhibit and housing for visiting researchers. The new campus, a 60th-birthday gift from DeGeneres’ wife, Portia de Rossi, is slated for a 2021 opening.

Ugandan native Praveen Moman, who founded Volcanoes Safaris, which offers lodging near the gorilla

trekking areas, says, “Controlling the amount of tourism is important.” The maximum time with the gorillas in both countries is one hour, and the maximum number of people at a time is eight.

Permits for one visit in Uganda cost $600, while a gorilla visit in Rwanda is $1,500, with money in each country going back to the surrounding communities. In the Democratic Republic of the Congo, the price is $400 per person.

More than 20 years ago Moman started Volcanoes Safaris, the first company to set up simple camps in the areas around the gorilla parks in Uganda — at Mgahinga, the Batwa Culture and Hiking Lodge, and at Bwindi, the Jungle Gorilla Lodge. A major upgrade program throughout 2017 transformed them into luxury lodges.

In 2000 Volcanoes Safaris became the first international safari company to take clients to Rwanda and opened Virunga Lodge in 2004, offering a luxury gorilla experience.

Meanwhile, the Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, in the foothills of the Virunga Mountains of Rwanda, and Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge, outside of Bwindi, are community-owned tourist lodges that benefit the local people as well by generating income through tourism.

INFO TO GO

The main entry point for flights into Uganda is Entebbe International Airport, located near the town of Entebbe. From Entebbe, it is about an eight- to ninehour drive to Bwindi. Another option is to fly domestically to the North or South End of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.

The drive from Entebbe to Mgahinga is about nine hours. An alternative is to fly to Kigali, Rwanda (KGL), and make the three-hour drive from there, plus time for the border crossing.

Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park lies in a small village called Musanze, about a two-hour drive from Kigali International Airport and Rwanda’s capital of Kigali.

Visitors to Virunga National Park usually fly into Kigali International Airport and take the three-plus-hour taxi to the Grand Barrier border, crossing from Gisenyi, Rwanda, to Goma, Democratic Republic of the Congo.

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kicking back | MALTA

Mediterranean Magic Dive into big fun in the tiny island nation of Malta. BY ALLIE MOORE MULTIFACETED MALTA:

(Left to right) Upper Barrakka Gardens in Valletta; Merchants Street, Valletta; snorkeling in the Blue Lagoon, Comino; and Marsaxlokk village PHOTOS: © DEBU55Y - DREAMSTIME.COM, © EVGENIY FESENKO - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ZOLTAN GABOR - DREAMSTIME.COM, © CALIN ANDREI STAN - DREAMSTIME.COM

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SMACK DAB IN THE MIDDLE of the Mediterranean Sea, almost equidistant from mainland Europe and North Africa, lies the tiny island nation of Malta. Its confluence of cultures has weathered the storms of several occupations, but it now serves as a gateway between continents and a well-preserved museum of some of the world’s oldest civilizations.

Comprising three islands (Malta, Comino and Gozo), the archipelago’s rugged coastlines and sparkling sapphire waters make it a desirable destination for both work and play. From the growing capital city of Valletta to the stunning rocky shores that once housed the world-famous Azure Window, Malta is rife with opportunities to expand and explore.

Founded in the 16th century by the Knights of St. John, the former walled city of Valletta now serves as Malta’s capital.

Functioning for the past few centuries as a hub for economic trade between North Africa, the Middle East and Europe, Valletta became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1980 and the

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European Capital of Culture in 2018. Due to its central location, Malta has seen a surge in international visitors who arrive for both business and pleasure. While often based in Valletta, business travelers can easily explore other areas of the island as well as the neighboring islands by public bus, rental car or private driver.

Most trips to Malta begin in Valletta, a small but historic and invigorating Mediterranean capital. One of the best and more relaxing ways to see the city is to book a ticket on a day cruise. Most tours depart almost every hour and cruise around the coastal capital and its various harbors. Afterward, stay on the southeastern border of Valletta to spend time strolling through the pristine and manicured Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens, the Upper offering panoramic views of the Three Cities across the harbor and beyond. In Valletta proper, head to Merchant Street Market to sample local food from one of the restaurant stalls while perusing both local and international brands of cloth-

ing, décor and souvenirs.

After the Knights of St. John arrived and settled on the island of Malta, they commissioned their namesake church in the 16th century. Still open today, St. John’s Co-Cathedral welcomes visitors to marvel at its majestic Baroque interior that contains Caravaggio’s oldest signed work of art.

There’s a lot more to Malta than just Valletta, and each corner of the island and smaller sister islands feels like worlds away within just a few hundred miles.

As an island, Malta boasts opportunities for watersports like diving and boating. Book your spot on a fishing boat with a local for a few hours of searching for the best day’s catch to deliver to local restaurants, or just kick back on a catamaran as you curve around the coasts and stop for swimming breaks in the crystal-clear Mediterranean waters. Novice divers can take lessons at various points around the island, while experts can embark on challenging dives like Lantern Point, with depths of nearly 500 feet. Underwater reefs and caves combine with calm, clear waters to make Malta a desirable destination for deep dives.

Back up on land, Malta’s Marsa Sports Club is the island’s largest locale for leisure activities like golf, miniature golf, tennis, squash, cricket or just some sunbathing and swimming by the pool.

The 100-year-old sports club offers daily and weekly rates for visitors.

The quaint fishing village of Marsaxlokk warrants a daytrip from Valletta, particularly on Sundays when the street market bustles. But if crowds aren’t your thing, visit on a weekday and make a point of dining at one of the harbor-front seafood restaurants, where fish is practically tossed directly from one of the bay’s colorful fishing boats into the kitchen each day. Walk or take a taxi east along the coast until you reach St. Peter’s Pool, a natural pool with suitable cliffs for jumping into the cool waters below.

Step back in time with a visit to Mdina, which served as the island’s capital until medieval times. From atop the city’s walls views spread across the Maltese archipelago, while down at sea

LODGING AX THE PALACE Just north of Valletta on the peninsula of Sliema sits AX The Palace Hotel, a chic hotel and spa with a rooftop terrace, pool and dining area with views of the Mediterranean Sea. High Street, Sliema $$$ CORINTHIA PALACE HOTEL & SPA “Malta’s Leading Hotel,” according to the World Travel Awards, is still in operation while getting a facelift. This fall its revamped Athenaeum Spa will reopen.

De Paule Avenue, San Anton $$$ INTERCONTINENTAL MALTA If four restaurants, a rooftop terrace, on-site café, cocktail lounge and an infinity pool aren’t enough, Malta’s InterContinental Hotel also features a private beach for guests.

St. George’s Bay, St. Julian’s $$$$

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QUIET SCENES:

Cliffs of San Lawrenz, Gozo (top); and a street in Mdina PHOTOS: © MARCO DAL CANTO - DREAMSTIME.COM, © SJANKAUSKAS - DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING BEATI PAOLI RESTAURANT Venture downstairs to the crypt-like basement dining room where the open-plan kitchen lets you watch the chef and cooks in action as they prepare delicate Mediterranean dishes.

240 St. Paul St., Valletta $$$

INFO TO GO

MALDONADO BISTRO Culinary artistry meets medieval charm at Maldonado, a cozy cavern where dishes like Gozo ravioli complement the historic ambience provided by stone walls.

18 Mons Vella, Ir-Rabat Għawdex, Gozo $$$ MIRO Seabream roulade, strawberry fillet and lamb tagliata are just a few of the decadent options on Miro’s forward-thinking menu, located in The George Hotel.

The George, Urban Boutique Hotel, Paceville Avenue, St. Julian’s $$$$

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level the car-free zone has earned the nickname “the Silent City.” An easy bus connection links well-preserved and welcoming Mdina to Valletta and other places around the island.

Nestled between Malta and Gozo, the tiny island of Comino often would be overlooked if not for the Blue Lagoon, a stunning blue paradise for swimming, snorkeling, fish-spotting and diving, as well as speedboat tours of the adjacent caves.

A short ferry ride brings you to the island of Gozo, the slightly greener sister of the three islands. The ruins of Gozo’s Ggantija Temple predate the Egyptian pyramids, and the seaside town of Xlendi is known for its captivating cliffs. The former home of the Azure Window still attracts visitors to the bucolic capital city of Victoria, where an uphill climb to the Citadel offers scenic views of rolling hills and the farms that produce Gozo’s fruity liqueurs.

Just as cultures coalesce on the tiny Mediterranean island of Malta, so do chances for fun and exotic activities when work duties are behind you.

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Malta International Airport lies approximately five miles (15 minutes by car) southwest of the capital city of Valletta and serves all of Malta. Public transportation is still quite limited in Malta, but visitors can access the rest of the island by public bus, taxi or private transfer. Car rentals are also available, but drivers should be warned Maltese roads can be difficult to navigate due to the uneven pavement, assertive drivers and the fact that the Maltese drive on the left side of the road.

Four express bus lines (X1, X2, X3 and X4) connect the airport with various locations around the island and serve as the cheapest way to get you to your destinations. Taxis also run between the airport and nearly anywhere in Malta, with rates varying from about $17 to Valletta to $25 and $30 to St. John’s Bay and St. Julian’s, respectively. Shuttle service is available for select hotels located throughout Malta and can be arranged on the Malta Airport website.

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lgbtq+

Progressive Portland The Pacific Northwest hot spot boasts an accepting attitude. BY MARK CHESNUT

IF THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST enjoys a unique reputation as a progressive and naturally beautiful paradise in the United States, then Portland, Oregon, stars as one of the hubs featuring what people love best about the region.

The city’s liberal, accepting vibe as well as its eco-friendly approach to life also explain why Portland is so popular with LGBTQ+ travelers.

Oregon’s largest metropolis is touting one of its latest developments. The Q Center, an LGBTQ+ community center, recently debuted the Q Makers Market, billed as the nation’s only Queer-focused artisan market. Taking place the second Saturday of every month, the event brings together vendors, food pop-ups and even live musical performances.

Travel Portland, the city’s destination promotion organization, makes it easy for LGBTQ+ visitors to plan their visits, with a robust array of listings and recommendations.

Top nightlife options include CC Slaughters, a dance club that hosts a Sunday-night drag show; Hobo’s, a restaurant and lounge frequented by gay men and their friends; and Escape Bar & Grill, which draws a loyal clientele of lesbians and their allies, too.

Anyone interested in pride festivities should mark their calendar for June, when Portland Pride kicks off with a two-day festival at Waterfront Park every year. And in September, the Portland Queer Film Festival brings noteworthy works to the screen in a variety of genres. It’s actually easy to find noteworthy and welcoming events throughout the year in Portland. Among the reasons to dress up are the Red Dress Party, an annual soirée that raises funds for local LGBTQ+ organizations in May, and the Portland Queer Music Festival, showcasing the talents of local and visiting musicians in August, hosted by southeast Portland’s popular Crush Bar. Portland is also heaven for travelers looking for stylish accommodations. New names on the scene include The Hotel Zags Portland, opened this year following a major redesign of the former Hotel Modera downtown; and the Moxy Portland, slated to debut in 2020. Top-of-the-line choices include The Nines, a Luxury Collection Hotel set in the historic Meier & Frank building; and the Hi-Lo, an Autograph Collection property set in the equally historic Oregon Pioneer Building.

PRIDE STRIDES: Portland Pride Parade PHOTOS: © TRAVEL PORTLAND, © AMY OUELLETTE

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airport update

On the Horizon Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport gears up for a busy future. BY ERICH MARTIN

WHEN IT COMES TO MAJOR domestic airports, chances are hubs like JFK, LAX and ORD come to mind much sooner than Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport. Located about 20 miles north of Miami, FLL is one of the busiest airports in the country.

Although Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport opened in 1953, it rose to prominence in the early 1990s.

The airport serves as a hub for JetBlue, Silver Airways and Spirit Airlines. Allegiant Air, Norwegian Air and Southwest Airlines use the airport as a focus gateway. It might not handle the types of flights Miami sees, but more than 700 daily flights ensure FLL is here to stay. Before the end of the year, airlines will add three new domestic and one international route to the airport’s diverse network. In 2018 the airport added service to nearly two dozen new markets.

Carving out an even greater niche, Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International works with nearby Port Everglades to create a seamless experience for passengers flying into the region to board a cruise to the Caribbean. In addition to Port Everglades, the Port of Miami lies about 45 minutes away.

As airport officials look toward the future, a number of big upgrades appear on the horizon. Recently, the FLLibrary opened for public use at the airport. The Broward County-run entertainment offering manifests as an entertainment nook located between terminals 3 and 4 where passengers can relax and recharge electronic

devices before their flights. Guests can scan a QR code on their phones to access an online library of complimentary music and movies.

More indicative of the airport’s grand plans, the Broward County Aviation Department recently updated FLL’s master plan.

While no changes have been announced yet, the updates will put the airport in a prime position to add new roads, facilities, utilities and garages as needs arise in the coming years. Right now, the airport expects to finish reworking the North Runway and put it back in service by the end of September. The completion of the runway work will also reopen the Ron Gardner Aircraft Observation Area, located off the North Runway and offering great views of arriving and departing flights.

Specifically in Terminal 2, work has been underway for more than a year to sufficiently modernize the airport, with new restrooms, shopping and dining areas and options, waiting areas and a permanent Delta Sky Club in the works for the future.

In recent years, Terminal 4 added 12 new gates, with two more set to open this year. Two domestic gates and 12 international gates will call the ever-expanding terminal home.

Whether a window restoration in Terminal 1, the regular addition of new routes or pedestrian safety improvements, Fort-Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport sets its sights on building toward a bigger future.

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FORWARD-THINKING:

North Runway rehab; FLLibrary; and the Ron Gardner Aircraft Observation Area, which will reopen once the North Runway work is completed PHOTOS: © BROWARD COUNTY AVIATION DEPARTMENT

Fort LauderdaleHollywood International Airport broward.org/airport

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health

Keep on the Go Don’t let MS prevent you from enjoying new experiences and places. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN

MULTIPLE SCLEROSIS is an autoimmune disease that damages the nerves in the spinal cord and brain as well as the optic nerves. MS affects women more than men. The disorder is most commonly diagnosed between ages 20 and 40 but can be seen at any age. MS damages the myelin sheath, the protective covering surrounding the nerve cells, causing nerve signals to slow or stop.

An MS diagnosis should not keep you from seeing destinations you have always wanted to visit. You can use your disease as a call to explore new places; travel can be a reality if you address any restrictions or concerns you may have. Before you travel, especially outside of the country, contact your neurologist or MS treatment provider, who can help plan and renew any medications you need to take with you. If you use injectable medications or other treatments that require refrigeration, your provider can help ensure they are shipped safely to your destination. Notify your hotel directly that a package requiring refrigeration will arrive prior to your arrival.

Notify the airline ahead of time about your disability. The airline can arrange transportation through the airport to your gate and provide you with a disability notification card to expediate access through TSA and early boarding. Let the airline know of any special needs, including refrigeration of medications. It is also helpful to notify TSA and apply for TSA PreCheck or the new CLEAR ID, which is a safer, simpler and more secure identification. CLEAR is currently available at only 50 U.S. airports. Ensure your passport is current and will not expire while you are abroad.

If you plan on making foreign transactions with a credit card, call the number on the back of your card prior to travel to advise customer service of two things: the location of your travel

and your need for a custom PIN. This can prevent fraudulent transactions on your card, provide a favorable exchange rate and allow you to purchase and confirm train tickets.

Contact your cellphone carrier to understand the costs associated with travel abroad. As soon as you leave the country, you will be roaming for both data and voice. You may have unlimited data and text, but international calls may be expensive. WhatsApp is a free communication service that uses a phone’s internet connection to make voice calls, but only when you call your contacts.

Book hotels or short-term rentals that are handicapped accessible, on one floor or level.

Many places in older countries do not have elevators. If you have limited mobility and cannot manage stairs, take that into account when booking your stay. Consider newer hotels offering handicapped accessible suites.

Countries in Europe and some other older countries have an outdated infrastructure of roads and sidewalks in poor condition. Cobblestone sidewalks can be difficult to navigate with mobility issues. Consider bringing or renting assistive devices such as a cane, walker on wheels, wheelchair or power wheelchair. To rent these devices, you must order them in advance and have them sent to your hotel room. Supportive, cushioned shoes are essential for uneven walking surfaces or standing in long lines.

Pack light if you will be taking trains or other public transportation since you do not want to be lugging suitcases over uneven streets. Use luggage with four spinner wheels with 360-degree mobility and a pull-up handle with a push-button system that adjusts to several heights, plus padded top and side handles for comfort.

Take time to research and plan your daily activities beforehand. Identify the top sites,

museums and areas of interest you would like to visit. Ensure these locations are handicapped accessible. Plan rest breaks into your days so you do not exert yourself and become fatigued. Travel with a friend or a small group of friends in case you need assistance.

Once abroad, protect your identity. Beware of pickpockets and scammers who can scan your information. Purchase a wallet that protects against RFID scanning. You can also purchase a wallet to wear around your neck. If you carry a purse, make sure it has zippers that lock. Consider using free Google Maps and Translate to help you navigate a new location. Google Maps helps you walk and navigate by mapping each step; Google Translate translates spoken or typed words into your primary language.

Locate nearby hospitals and emergency numbers. Many hotels can provide a list of close hospitals and local English-speaking doctors to call if you require medical assistance. Ask for this information on arrival and keep it handy for emergency situations. Designate one of your companions to be responsible for your medical history, medications list and the names and phone numbers of your neurologist and primary care provider in the United States.

Avoid fatigue, stress, infection and overheating whenever possible so you do not have an exacerbation of MS symptoms. Bring cooling devices such as seat pads, vests and cooling packs to reduce overheating. Book a direct flight so you do not have to wait for connections. Use the restroom before boarding the plane. Keep your medications in your carry-on bag. Stay hydrated on the plane and throughout your trip. If you must sit for long periods, reduce muscle spasms by frequently performing simple stretches. Maintain reasonable expectations; do not try to do 21 cities in 21 days.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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preview

The Chinese call it the “Long Wall.” Indeed. It is more than 13,000 miles long. Some portions date back more than 2,300 years, built as a series of fortifications along the historical border between China and Mongolia. Most of the 5,500-mile-long wall we visit today, however, was built (of brick, stone and mud, by hand) in the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644). It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Learn more about the Great Wall next month as you read Bucket List: Hiking the Great Wall, Beijing, China.

PHOTO: © ZARAMIRA - DREAMSTIME.COM

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globaltravelerusa.com

SEPTEMBER 2019

An

urban resort in Los Angeles offering luxurious accommodations, California French dining, newly redesigned bar with live entertainment, spacious meeting rooms, complimentary high-speed internet, spa and salon services, fitness center and more.

SOFITEL LOS ANGELES AT BEVERLY HILLS | 8555 BEVERLY BLVD. LOS ANGELES, CA 90048 | 310-278-5444 WWW.SOFITEL-LOS-ANGELES.COM

Enjoy one status on 13 airlines.

When you are eligible for priority boarding on any oneworld® member airline, you have it on all member airlines. It’s one of the many benefits available to you as a oneworld member, no matter which cabin you’re flying.

Learn how you can travel bright at oneworld.com.

Priority check-in for Emerald, Sapphire and Ruby members only. Priority boarding for Sapphire and Emerald members only. Priority baggage handling is not available on flights operated by British Airways. Extra baggage allowance benefits differ for Sapphire and Emerald level members. Fast track at security lanes for Emerald members only. oneworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a oneworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a oneworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). For information on oneworld, visit www.oneworld.com.

American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LATAM Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, SriLankan Airlines and oneworld are trademarks of their respective companies. LATAM Airlines (Paraguay) is currently not a part of oneworld.