March 2021 Global Traveler

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GRANDE DAME Venture out in Vienna, a city of opulence and grace. p. 60

March 2021

ATLANTA p. 56 BORDEAUX p. 74 CAYMAN ISLANDS p. 70 İSTANBUL p. 58 MÁLAGA p. 64 MUSCAT p. 50 NAPA VALLEY p. 72 SEOUL p. 66 WASHINGTON, D.C. p. 62

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR ®

EDITORIAL Editor In Chief Kimberly Krol Inlander kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com Vice President/Digital Director Katie Skrzek katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor Janice Hecht jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor Patricia Vanikiotis patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Social Media & Editorial Coordinator Mary Melnick mary.melnick@globaltravelerusa.com

ART Art Director Tracey Cullen tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer Christopher P. Ottaunick christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor Vance Piccin

Snow Much Fun: Kimberly enjoying a weekend getaway with her husband PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL INLANDER

Taste of Travel

I

n late January my husband and I packed up the car, grabbed a bag of road-trip snacks, downloaded a podcast and took to the road.

We ventured 4.5 hours across our state for a long weekend at Nemacolin, a luxury resort in western Pennsylvania that seemingly rises out of the snow (at least for us, as we were in the throes of a Northeast winter) to delight all types of travelers with a long list of activities, eateries and fun. For those of you who are The Bachelor fans, you may recognize Nemacolin as the setting for Matt James’ quest for love this season.

A weekend away felt wonderful for a number of reasons: change of scenery, time spent in the great outdoors, the comfort of a luxury hotel bed, treating ourselves to a decadent room service breakfast, trying new things, a much-needed massage and a feeling of normalcy and travel I’d been desperately craving. With a long roster of options and on-site amenities, there’s actually something for everyone at Nemacolin, and you can feel the pride each staff member takes in their job, the resort and the owners. I’ll save most of the details for upcoming articles in print and across our websites, but I will say I felt safe at the resort. Upon arrival, our temperatures were taken; there was mask compliance everywhere, even outdoors; and many additional measures, like regular staff COVID testing, that enhanced the feeling of safety and cleanliness.

Now that my appetite for a taste of travel has been somewhat whetted, I’m antsy for more! Perhaps

this issue will make you eager and anxious, too, as we depart for Muscat, Oman; Atlanta, Georgia; İstanbul, Turkey; Vienna, Austria; Washington, D.C.; Málaga, Spain; Seoul, South Korea; the Cayman Islands; Napa Valley, California; and Bordeaux, France. Sharon King Hoge inspired me to once again head west in my home state with her super sweet Spas report from The Hershey Hotel on page 26.

Find out what to expect this summer with the Olympics on page 44. As of press time, the Games are still on, and elite athletes continue to prepare. We updated our Cruising article after new mandates from the Canadian government put up some roadblocks for Alaskan cruising. While we can only do our best to plan for the unexpected, we strive to continually deliver the most up-to-date information daily and monthly across our suite of products. Review our virtual 2020 awards event and all the winners on page 34.

Join us for our next issue and learn more about what the COVID-19 vaccine means for the travel industry and so much more. Until then, safe travels!

COLUMNISTS Margaret Backenheimer Debra Bokur J.D. Brown Mark Chesnut Eunice Fried Jack Guy Kevin Ryan

WRITERS Elyse Glickman Sharon King Hoge Eugenia Lazaris Katie McElveen Kelly Magyarics Greg McCluney Richard Newton Angelique Platas Katherine Rodeghier Jan Schroder

For complete bios visit globaltravelerusa.com

CIRCULATION Specialists John Wroblewski, Louie Atsaves Managers Jayhawk Evans, Mark P. Ford, Teresa Jackson, Anthony “Scraps” Dimera Circulation Director Michele Shannon Circulation Manager Anna Pudzianowski Research Consultant Sharon Sterne

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman Michael Donahue COO Michael Kiely President Carlos Cappuccio Deputy Vice President Aviation Edward Jefferson Deputy Vice President Accommodations Stephen Doherty Deputy Director Destinations Wayne Tallman Vice President Special Events/Photography Christopher Ottaunick Secretary Mark Lane Research Director Frank LoVerme Director of Technology Bob Hancock Director of Digital Advancement Jared Torgan Vice President of Corporate Giving Jim Bolger

GENERAL COUNSEL Thomas F. Goldman CONTACT US General Inquiries/Issue Requests/Reprints info@globaltravelerusa.com Subscriptions tel 818 286 3134 | gbtcs@magserv.com Public Relations kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com Letters to the Editor letters@globaltravelerusa.com Global Traveler is published monthly by FXExpress Publications, Inc., 309 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067. The U.S. subscription rate is $42 for one year, $79.95 for two years, $121.95 for three years.

Kimberly Krol Inlander Editor in Chief

As of publication, the destinations and venues mentioned in this issue were planning to reopen or are currently operating, but many may have restrictions or limitations in place to address current public health concerns. Always check in advance to confirm current requirements and restrictions.

Postmaster: Please send changes of address to Global Traveler, 309 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067

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LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER ®

ADVERTISING Publisher/CEO Francis X. Gallagher tel 215 919 8988 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Executive Vice President, Associate Publisher Carly Allen tel 267 495 6287 | carly.allen@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive Haley Fogarty tel 267 364 5811 | haley.fogarty@globaltravelerusa.com Production & Advertising Coordinator Yasser Ogando tel 267 884 1650 | yasser.ogando@globaltravelerusa.com

Fun in the Sun: Francis enjoying family and friends in Cape San Blas, Florida PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

REPRESENTATIVES

Back to Business

T

he March issue includes a recap of our annual awards festivities, which we held for nine years at The Peninsula Beverly Hills and eight years at other top venues.

In 2020 the Global Traveler team produced The Greatest Show on Earth, a virtual awards presentation released Dec. 14, which you can still view on any of the FXExpress platforms, including globaltravelerusa .com, trazeetravel.com and whereverfamily.com.

I’m sending out a super-big thanks to the entire team that helped make this happen, particularly Yasser Ogando (advertising and production coordinator), Chris Ottaunick (staff photographer) and Kimberly Krol Inlander (editor in chief ). Also at the helm for the enclosed recap issue is Tracey Cullen (art director), who made sure the quality of the images was the best possible. Hal Donnelly, our digital guru, took care of editing and combining acceptance videos. Coordinating our industry clients from all over the world to create this virtual event was a symphony in action.

Our events normally spread out over the entire year. Traditionally we hold the Wines on the Wing (business- and first-class wine judging) in April in New York City; the Leisure Lifestyle Awards in May, at the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills; The Trazees (voted by Trazee Travel readers) in July during the Global Business Travel Association convention; the Wherever Awards (from our family platform, Wherever Family) in September; and the GT Tested

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globaltravelerusa.com MARCH 2021

Reader Survey awards (the 18th year) in December at The Peninsula Beverly Hills.

Like you, we pivoted as we planned and replanned new dates, venues and options. Usually, at the end of the year and directly after the awards at The Peninsula, I fly back with a stop at Cape San Blas for some rest and reflection. This year we held an early Christmas at home with my children, and on Dec. 23 we packed up with our two dogs (Ella and Beau) and drove south to Florida.

We remained there for the month of January and the first week of February, working remotely and waiting for the vaccines to deploy at an effective level.

We returned home around Valentine’s Day, making a stop in Kitty Hawk, North Carolina, and returning to Philadelphia to get back to business, which we hope will now become more normalized.

Enjoy the March issue, and celebrate The Greatest Show on Earth and the best travel has to offer as we anticipate a return to the lifestyles we all love and cherish.

France Géraldine Roger tel 33 1 88 32 62 61 | cell 33 7 81 22 02 36 groger@asset-media.com Hong Kong, Thailand, Singapore, Australia Jeremy Orritt tel 852 23752311 | cell 852 91886157 jeremy@omjmedia.com India Vimal Anand tel 91 124 4932020 | cell 91 98100 71000 vimal@gmnindia.com Japan Yoshinori Ikeda tel 81 3 3661 6138 yoshinori.ikeda@pacific-business.com Middle East (Bahrain, Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, UAE) Rosy Kachouh Nawfal cell 971 55 607 8163 rosy@i-repme.com South Korea Jeff Hwang tel 82 31 702 7782 | cell 82 10 3498 9117 gng@gngcom.co.kr Spain Olga Martínez tel 34 91 320 0497 | cell 34 669 10 12 73 olga.martinez@aboutim.es Taiwan Keith Lee tel 886 2 2523 8268 leekh@ms4.hinet.net Turkey Saba Sarol Corzo tel 90 532 311 6704 or 1 310 562 2580 saba@catalyzismedia.com UK Stefanie Stroh-Begg tel 44 20 7611 1900 | cell 44 7798 665 395 stefanie@mercury-publicity.com CORPORATE OFFICE 309 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067

Francis X. Gallagher Publisher and CEO fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com

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A World of Travel Celebrate the 2020 winners of FXExpress’ far-reaching awards.

44

GRANDE DAME Venture out in Vienna, a city of opulence and grace. p. 60

ATLANTA p. 56 BORDEAUX p. 74 CAYMAN ISLANDS p. 70 İSTANBUL p. 58 MÁLAGA p. 64 MUSCAT p. 50 NAPA VALLEY p. 72 SEOUL p. 66 WASHINGTON, D.C. p. 62

COVER PHOTO: SCHÖNBRUNN PALACE. THE FORMER IMPERIAL SUMMER RESIDENCE IS A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE. PHOTO: © SORIN COLAC | DREAMSTIME.COM

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Let the Games Begin The Tokyo 2020 Olympics works toward a mid-pandemic strategy.

business destinations 50

Destination One: Muscat Oman’s prosperous capital impresses business and leisure travelers.

56

Stateside: Atlanta Atlanta bustles with vibrant new development.

58

MICE: İstanbul İstanbul draws meeting goers from around the globe.

60

9–5: Vienna Venture out in Vienna, a city of opulence and grace.

62

After 5: Washington, D.C. D.C.’s newest riverfront district comes to life at night.

PHOTO: © ALEXEYS | DREAMSTIME.COM

March 2021

CONTENTS

FLY WITH CONFIDENCE For the Chicago Department of Aviation (CDA), there is no higher priority than the safety and well-being of the traveling public and its airport community in Chicago. O’Hare and Midway International Airports, which are operated by the CDA, are committed to providing travelers with safe and efficient facilities, while offering best-in-class services and amenities. The CDA continues to work closely with federal, state, and local agencies to ensure travelers are healthy, comfortable and safe. Chicago’s airports are ready to make your essential travel possible.

For more information on what we are doing, visit flychicago.com/covid

/fly2ohare /fly2midway

@fly2ohare @fly2midway

@fly2ohare @fly2midway

flychicago.com

/flychicago

March 2021

CONTENTS

in every issue 10 14 16 18

20 22 23 26 28 30 32 78 79 80 82

Mail Call News Reviews One on One Tahiti Tourisme North America Technology Wine & Spirits Wealth Spas Golf Chefs Cruising LGBTQ+ Airport Update Medical Tourism Preview

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70

74

leisure destinations 64

Neighborhoods: Málaga Explore the coastal charms of Málaga’s neighborhoods.

66

Friends & Family: Seoul Seoul sizzles with food, fashion, palaces and pageantry.

70

Tours: Cayman Islands The warmth of the Caymans makes visitors feel right at home.

Bucket List: Napa Valley Swirl and sip Napa’s world-class expressions while tasting the wine country lifestyle.

74

Kicking Back: Bordeaux Explore the historic châteaux and fine wines of Bordeaux.

FX

EXPRESS

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2021 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

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PHOTO: © FREEPROD | DREAMSTIME.COM

72

Fly with a greener alliance.

We are proud to be the first global alliance to commit to a greener, more sustainable future.

All 13 oneworld member airlines have committed to a target of net zero carbon emissions by 2050.

To learn more about our sustainability initiatives, please visit oneworld.com/sustainability

MAIL CALL

Q&A WITH CARLY ALLEN, EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Spring is almost upon us, and I am itching to get outdoors. Are you planning on visiting any national parks this year?

Tell us. Email us at letters@globaltravelerusa.com

Q&A WITH HALEY FOGARTY, ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE In our January/February 2021 issue, account executive Haley Fogarty discussed the challenging year behind us and optimistic year ahead. This inspired the question, “What travel plans are you looking forward to?” A few readers wrote in with ideas:

LILLY SAMUELS, VIA EMAIL I’m eager to visit my son in Germany, so that’s on my list for 2021. Hopefully with the vaccines becoming more available, I will see him soon.

GENEVIEVE DEMETRI, VIA EMAIL My wife and I have a long list of travel plans this year.

We had a cruise canceled last year, along with countless work trips between the two of us. We’re planning to make the most of our remote work schedules this year and use all of our vacation days. Top of our list is Canada to see our daughter, but we will have to wait for now.

FRANKLIN S. HALL, VIA EMAIL

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ETIHAD ONE OF THE FIRST TO OFFER IATA TRAVEL PASS In our Jan. 20 issue of eFlyerUSA we covered the partnership between Etihad Airways and the International Air Transport Association with the IATA Travel Pass for passengers on the Gulf carrier. The IATA Travel Pass is a mobile app helping passengers manage travel in line with government requirements for COVID-19 tests or vaccines. It will initially be offered on select Etihad flights from Abu Dhabi in early 2021, with plans to extend the offer if successful. This news inspired a few readers to write in: This sounds like a really helpful resource for international travelers. I read the news every day and still can’t fully keep up with the various restrictions and capabilities of each airline, destination, hotel and so on.

STANLEY THOMAS, VIA EMAIL

DO YOU HAVE A STORY TO SHARE? THOUGHTS ON A RECENT GT ARTICLE? Email: letters@globaltravelerusa.com Write: Letters to the Editor 309 Floral Vale Blvd.

Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

PHOTO: © CARLY ALLEN, © TOM SAMWORTH | DREAMSTIME.COM

My boyfriend and I booked a flight to Spain last year for our friend’s wedding. The wedding was canceled, and we tried to get refunds for the flights but were denied since we used a discount booking service.

This bump in the road forced us to plan a trip in 2021, which I was frustrated by last year but am excited about this year. We’re still planning for Spain this summer, fingers crossed!

CONTACT GT

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Best Island Pacific Rim Five Years in a Row

A Thank You from the People of the Cook Islands “Unprecedented” is the choice word used to describe the chaotic times we presently face. The future remains uncertain, this we know. But one thing that will never change is our commitment to all of you.

The Cook Islands may be a small place, where only 18,000 people live, but our tiny population is big in heart. The people of the Cook Islands have remained dedicated to doing everything possible to protect our country during this time – its people, oceans, lagoons, mountains, and environment –and therefore her visitors, able to maintain a COVID-free status even now.

We know you see our islands the way we see them: as a little paradise.

We know this because you, the readers of Global Traveler magazine, have voted the Cook Islands as Best Island Pacific Rim for the fifth year in a row.

Which means you’re already familiar with our crystal blue lagoons, and you’re already aware that our mountains are so lush and green they make it impossible to ever again deny the life-giving, healing power of plants. And you’ve already experienced the staggering We want to sincerely thank you for gracing the Cook Islands with your votes again this year. Our gratitude is only exceeded by our honor in accepting this outstanding award.

For those of you who haven’t visited yet, we are a nation of 15 islands spread over a biodiverse South Pacific sea that’s roughly 3 times the size of Texas. Each of our islands is unique. Several have subterranean networks of caves. One is home to a watery village of shacks built on heads of coral, where divers harvest black pearls. All are unspoiled.

Travelers have compared even the most developed of our islands, Rarotonga, to Hawai‘i before the high rises. fine-dining restaurants. But even on these two islands, most businesses are small and family owned. Our national building code prohibits the construction of anything taller than a coconut tree.

Our mindful approach to development has allowed us to retain a strong sense of community. Visitors often remark on the friendliness of our people. They notice that even the way we say hello – kia orana, which means, I hope you have a long and healthy life – reflects the kindness and the selflessness built into our culture. Travelers also tell us they appreciate how easy it is to mingle with locals and learn about our way of life.

When the time is right, we look forward to welcoming you to our little paradise. And then welcoming you back again, because the percentage of people who only come once, well — that’s little, too.

Meitaki Ma‘ata (Thank You) With Love From A Little Paradise

CookIslands.travel

MAIL CALL they recovered from the virus within the last three months before entering the United States. These new regulations inspired many hotels to offer onsite COVID testing for guests. This inspired a few readers to write in with thoughts:

I love this idea, I wish more airlines had something similar. It seems like a nice one-stop shop for travelers.

TED WISNESKI, VIA EMAIL Etihad is a great airline, so I’m happy to see this initiative but not at all surprised.

I would love easy access to COVID testing. Having the option at the hotel seems like a great idea and a much-needed amenity for international travelers.

STEPHEN TILL, VIA EMAIL

JENNIFER COOPER, VIA EMAIL This is a great offer for those returning, but what about travelers leaving the country?

Airports need to keep up with hotels and offer this for travelers — it can still be so difficult to get a test.

SAM GONZALES, VIA EMAIL This is great! I’m excited to start traveling internationally again. I haven’t been overseas in nearly a year, so I’m looking forward to getting back out there and staying in a hotel!

HOTELS OFFER ON-SITE COVID-19 TESTING

AMY CAREY, VIA EMAIL

In our Jan. 27 issue of eFlyerUSA, we discussed the new travel requirements, including that all passengers (ages 2 and older) flying internationally must present a negative coronavirus test taken no more than three days before their flight or proof

WHEREVERFAMILY OFFERS AN ESCAPE

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fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind and soul in is clean, crisp and refreshing, offering a famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands.

BY mouth.

BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones.

PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

www.globaltravelerusa.com

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

We’ve stayed at Big Cedar Lodge and loved it. A nice, charming spot in a matching location. Nice to see some new activities on there, too — if you’re going to be stuck inside in the winter, it might as well be somewhere comfortable with something to do.

TONYA MILLS, VIA EMAIL

GLOBALTRAVELERUSA.COM Visit our website to access past and present articles, reports, guides, hot travel links and deals and video interviews, as well as forms for subscribing to the magazine and our eFlyer newsletter.

WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS? Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from returning to cruising to riding the U.S. Bicycle Route System.

globaltravelerusa.com/blog

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE AND ICE

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

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I love the Ozarks! Such a beautiful spot, and happy to know Big Cedar Lodge has a lot going on.

In our Feb. 1 issue of WhereverFamily News, we covered the appeal of the Ozarks for a winter get-

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kicking back | COOK

away, specifically Big Cedar Lodge. A few readers wrote in with responses:

2021 Wherever Awards Ballot Whereverfamily.com, the trusted travel source for the modern family, has opened voting for the 2021 Wherever Awards. Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

Best Family-Friendly Domestic Airline_____________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly International Destination____________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Airline in North America_____________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Domestic Destination________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly International Airline__________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Caribbean Island_____________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Frequent-Flyer Program_____________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Beach Town

Best Family-Friendly Hotel Chain__________________________________________________________ Best Family-Friendly Resort Chain_________________________________________________________ Best Family-Friendly Individual Hotel______________________________________________________ Best Family-Friendly Frequent-Stay Program______________________________________________ Best Family-Friendly All-Inclusive Hotel____________________________________________________

Northeast/Mid-Atlantic U.S. (Maine–Maryland)_______________________________________

Southeast U.S. (Virginia–Georgia)_____________________________________________________

Florida (East)___________________________________________________________________________

Florida (West) _________________________________________________________________________

Florida (Panhandle)____________________________________________________________________

Gulf U.S. (Alabama/Louisiana/Mississippi)____________________________________________

Texas__________________________________________________________________________________

West Coast U.S.________________________________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Pet Hotel_____________________________________________________________

Hawai’ian Islands______________________________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Hotel Kids Club_______________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Multigen Destination of the Year____________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Vacation Company___________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Amusement Park____________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Domestic Tour Company____________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Waterpark____________________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly International Tour Company_________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Rental Car Company_________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Cruise Line___________________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Travel Provider of the Year__________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Multigen Cruise Line_________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Domestic Airport_____________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Cruise Line Kids Club________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly International Airport_________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Credit Card___________________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Airport Dining________________________________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Credit Card Rewards Program_______________________________________

Best Family-Friendly Airport Shopping_____________________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO:

Name

Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at whereverfamily.com/wherever-awards/

Street Address City Home Phone

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NEWS, DEALS AND REWARDS Hilton Launches Solutions for Meetings and Events

New requirements for travelers on international flights to the United States began earlier this year: All passengers ages 2 and older must present a negative coronavirus test taken no more than three days before their flight or proof they recovered from the virus within the last three months. With the new regulations in effect, many hotels now offer on-site COVID testing for guests.

In the Dominican Republic, PCR and antibody testing is done free of charge for overnight guests at Eden Roc Cap Cana. All guests checking in also receive free travel health insurance issued by the government. When guests make reservations, they can coordinate scheduling the test, done privately inside guestrooms. Three testing options are available, and for positive guests a special room is designated on property with expenses covered by insurance.

Atlantis Paradise Island offers complimentary COVID-19 Rapid Antigen testing for up to two guests returning to the United States. Results are available within 30 minutes, with documentation provided for guests to present at the airport. For countries requiring a COVID-19 RT-PCR, on-site testing is available at $165, and guests can schedule testing as soon as they check in.

At Curtain Bluff in Antigua, either rapid or PCR testing is done privately in room by the resort’s house doctor. Similar services are available at The Ocean Club, A Four Seasons Resort.

The Safe Travels offer at Grand Hyatt Baha Mar in the Bahamas allows guests to receive two RT-PCR COVID-19 tests on the day of departure. Additional tests can be purchased at a discounted rate of $125 per person. Results are delivered via email within six hours. Book by April 30 for travel through June 30, with a three-night minimum stay required. Use promo code SAFE. In Marrakech, a nurse administers tests in guestrooms at Royal Mansour on the day prior to departure. Concierges can arrange testing at approximately $78 per person. Costa Rica’s Nayara Resorts collaborates with a private lab to offer on-site tests. Other resorts around the world offer similar programs. _______ edenroccapcana.com atlantisbahamas.com curtainbluff.com fourseasons.com hyatt.com royalmansour.com nayarasprings.com

_______ meetings.hilton.com

Use TAP Miles&Go Points for More Than Travel Members of TAP Air Portugal’s TAP Miles&Go loyalty program now have new benefits with Miles4Extras. Mileage points can be used to purchase upgrades, extra baggage or sports equipment; access lounges; or FastTrack services. Customers who travel less frequently or haven’t accumulated enough miles to book flights are also able to choose benefits tailored to their miles.

Seat upgrades start from 1,500 TAP Miles&Go miles; FastTrack from 2,900 miles; and entry to lounges for 4,950. Other benefits include adding luggage for 6,000 miles, transporting a pet for 7,000 and carrying special equipment beginning at 10,000 miles. Flights can be booked as normal on the website, with the benefits and miles option available during the purchase process.

For those with existing reservations, manage benefits through booking management on the website. Services can also be requested by phone or at the airport. _______ flytap.com

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PHOTOS: © JUAN MOYANO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © BOARDING1NOW | DREAMSTIME.COM

Hotels Offer On-Site COVID-19 Testing

Hilton introduced Hilton EventReady Hybrid Solutions, a new suite of offerings directing event planners to Hilton’s hybrid-ready hotels and providing them with planning resources.

As Hilton EventReady Hybrid Solutions began rolling out in January, an expanded Hilton EventReady Playbook became available, and participating hotels obtained access to team member training resources.

Hybrid-ready hotels highlight baseline requirements customers should expect when hosting a small, hybrid event including IT readiness, multisite offerings and express agreements and the expanded Playbook. Each hotel underwent an evaluation to assess available IT bandwidth and infrastructure. To be deemed ready, they must have a minimum amount of incremental and available bandwidth to allow for seamless connectivity.

Incentives let customers book in-person portions at multiple hybridready locations. The Hilton EventReady Playbook includes detailed case studies, pro tips, a glossary of terms and in-depth information on planning and executing hybrid events.

As part of the program, Encore offers several technological offers created for small, hybrid events and Presentation Stages, a productionready event solution with critical broadcast technology and staging equipment. It offers a clean, safe, pre-built location to produce, record and broadcast a high-quality online event. The Hilton properties with the technology can accommodate two to six on-site presenters and up to 50 in-person attendees. Presentation Stages are available to book at Conrad Fort Lauderdale Beach, Hilton Atlanta, Hilton Anatole, Hilton Denver and The Beverly Hilton. More will be available in Cleveland; Minneapolis; New York; Washington, D.C.; and across Europe, the Middle East and Africa by the end of 2021.

INNSiDE New York Nomad and Paw.com

Warm & Cozy at Georgia’s Barnsley Resort

INNSiDE by Meliá New York Nomad partners with Paw.com to enhance its current pet and Day Stay programs. The hotel will offer a pet package, allowing pets up to 30 pounds for a one-time fee of $100 per room, per stay. Compliments of Paw.com, a faux-fur, human-grade memory foam and machine-washable PupRug pet bed and matching scratchproof and waterproof PupProtector blanket will be delivered to petfriendly rooms.

Paw.com also outfitted the hotel’s outdoor patios with PupLounge outdoor beds.

The hotel’s Day Stay program allows for remote work use of guestrooms and hotel services, and the pet package can be applied to that program as well. Additionally, INNSiDE New York Nomad offers an exclusive Paw.com discount as part of the program for guests’ use after their stay.

While at the hotel, participants can shop Paw.com products at the on-site gift shop.

Find yourself warm and cozy in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains at Barnsley Resort, a 3,000-acre retreat. The Warm & Cozy winter offer includes a signature Barnsley Resort logo blanket and a $100 activity credit, available through April 1.

_______ melia.com paw.com

PHOTOS: © IRINA MESHCHERYAKOVA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ETIHAD AIRWAYS, © HOFSAS HOUSE HOTEL

Etihad Airways Launches IATA Travel Pass The International Air Transport Association and Etihad Airways partnered to launch the IATA Travel Pass for passengers on the Gulf carrier. The IATA Travel Pass is a mobile app that helps passengers manage travel in line with government requirements for COVID-19 tests or vaccines. It will be initially offered on select Etihad flights from Abu Dhabi in early 2021, with plans to extend the offer if successful.

With the IATA Travel Pass, Etihad guests can create a digital passport to receive COVID test results. It will also keep passengers in control of data and facilitate sharing their information with airlines and authorities, as well as manage travel documentation. Etihad has been working on digital health certifications for its travelers, and it actively campaigns for collaboration and a united regulatory response across the industry.

IATA Travel Pass comprises four independent modules that interact with each other. They cover registries for regulatory entry requirements and labs/test centers; verified certificate insurance; digital identity; and the possibility for passengers to share test results via the mobile device. The modules can also be used separately and have been developed to be interoperable with other industry solutions. _______ iata.org etihad.com

_______ barnsleyresort.com

Third Night’s a Charm at Hofsas House Hotel Hofsas House Hotel knows getaways never last long enough — that’s why it believes the third night’s a charm. Book three nights, and the third night is available at one-third of the rate at the Carmel-by-the-Sea, California, property.

Subject to availability, a minimum three-night stay is required. Blackout dates apply, but the offer is available March and April 2021. Use code HHCHARM when booking. _______ hofsashouse.com

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eFlyer USA Global Traveler’s weekly newsletter brings news, deals and reviews right to you every Wednesday.

MARCH 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

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GT TESTED

JW MARRIOTT MARCO ISLAND BEACH RESORT TOP TAKEAWAYS: The property is beautiful and the staff top-notch.

-------------------------Choosing between beautiful pools and the beach may have been the most difficult decision we faced each day.

-------------------------The resort offers wonderful places to eat; but if you want to leave the property, it is an easy ride into Naples.

-------------------------Naples is a great town with an abundance of shopping options and fantastic restaurants with fresh seafood.

JW MARRIOTT MARCO ISLAND BEACH RESORT 400 S. Collier Blvd.

Marco Island, FL 34145 tel 239 394 2511 marriott.com

GUEST QUARTERS: Our spacious and clean room featured a king-sized bed. The bedding and pillows were heavenly, so cozy and comfortable we enjoyed great sleep every night. The room also included a large TV, complimentary WiFi and plenty of outlets for our electronics. The deck outside the sliding doors provided a beautiful, scenic view of the pool and ocean.

SERVICES/AMENITIES: One of the amenities we really appreciated was the 24-hour fitness center. When traveling, it is sometimes difficult to find time to work out, but we were able to sneak in a few workouts in a clean gym with the requisite weights and machines. Beautiful pools greeted us as we walked out the door, but the real prize lay just past the pools — the pristine sand and beautiful ocean of the beach. There, the staff quickly greeted us and set us up with towels, chairs and umbrella. They also came around in the truck to serve us food and drink. Two great beach bars maintain the beach theme and keep guests hydrated.

There are choices for breakfast, and we enjoyed the delicious breakfast buffet at

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restaurant Maia. The resort offers even more options for dinner, with a new addition that, after a certain time, serves adults only. The 10K Alley bar was unique; it offered a great craft beer selection but, more importantly, games such as mini golf, virtual reality and bowling.

Another bonus is the Hertz office in the hotel lobby. We were able to rent a car on short notice, and they were accommodating.

REVIEWED BY Kevin Ryan

PHOTOS: © KEVIN RYAN, © JW MARRIOTT MARCO ISLAND BEACH RESORT

ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: After a short trip to Orlando, Florida, we rented a car and drove to Marco Island. Once we pulled up to the hotel, the valet team welcomed us and took our bags. Although the lobby was crowded and lively, we checked in quickly and our bags arrived in our room in no time at all. Our bell man was helpful and told us about the property, the restaurants and the activities happening during our stay.

GT TESTED

MONDRIAN DOHA

PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER, © MONRDIAN DOHA, © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER,

ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: I was part of a group of travelers attending the Hamad International Airport Expansion presentation in Doha. Most arrived the day before, but due to a family commitment, I arrived the following day. A driver picked me up at the airport and drove me to the sleek and modern property designed by Marcel Wanders of the Netherlands. The 270-room property was the first sbe hotel in the Middle East. My luggage was scanned and put aside for a hand check, and the guard removed the little sleep sound device I use to cover city noise when I sleep and travel. “No speakers allowed,” the guard said, but once I explained what the item was he allowed me to take it. From there, check-in was swift, and I received a packet of information about dinner and the week’s agenda.

GUEST QUARTERS: I was in Suite 1309 with beautiful views and an inviting layout. The main living space had a comfortable king-sized bed opposite a large-screen TV and a built-in work station and desk. The wallpaper on the far wall was busy with Islamic architecture and symbolism — I liked the falcon images. The room also included a small glass-top table and chair and a long combination hassock and end table left of the bed. The shades over the lights sported a Turkish or Lebanese design which worked well with the all-white motif in the room.

The bathroom occupied a massive space on the other side of the wall and featured a huge soaking tub and a large step-in and -through shower which separated the tub area from the sink area — a smart concept. Bathroom amenities included Ciel Reserve shampoo, conditioner and shower gel and other amenities.

My only complaint — and I confirmed this with other guests — was the faulty air-conditioning. It was so humid in the rooms, even though cool, that clothing felt damp each night when we returned. I told the hotel staff about this afterward, and they confirmed they would investigate the cause.

SERVICES/AMENITIES: My gracious host prearranged a lavish dinner for me the first night at Walima, known for its Middle Eastern cuisine and, I must add, fantastic wait staff. I dined on a selection of cold mezeh (outstanding), lamb machboos (hit the spot) and a fine, cold Sauvignon Blanc. I also enjoyed a few drinks with colleagues at Hudson Tavern, where one can enjoy a proper pint of Guinness surrounded by a sports bar theme. Off the lobby we enjoyed breakfast before our day’s festivities. The staff was always welcoming and attentive to our needs.

TOP TAKEAWAYS: Great location and easy to see the sights of Doha

-------------------------Beautiful hanging glass lights in Walima add to the atmosphere.

MONDRIAN DOHA West Bay Lagoon Doha, Qatar tel 974 4045 5555 sbe.com/hotels/mondrian/doha

REVIEWED BY Francis X. Gallagher

MARCH 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

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ONE ON ONE

Kristin Carlson Managing Director, Tahiti Tourisme North America

THE BUSINESS What is your most recent project, and what was the inspiration behind it? As of January, our U.S. office, previously Tahiti Tourisme United States, became Tahiti Tourisme North America. We are now responsible for arrivals to The Islands of Tahiti not only from the United States but also Canada and Mexico. We need to immerse ourselves in these two markets and once again make the all-important trade connections.

The inspiration was our previous success in the United States, the largest market of travelers to the destination, and to take advantage of our economies of scale and expertise.

THE BASICS Name: Kristin Carlson Title: Managing director Company, city: Tahiti Tourisme North America; Los Angeles, California First job: Account coordinator, The Fontayne Group Where to next: The Islands of Tahiti, of course!

A LITTLE BIT MORE What actor or actress would play you in a movie of your life? I’ve been mistaken for Christina Applegate (the Kelly Bundy days), Kristin Chenoweth, Pink (trust me, I can’t sing) or Kelly Ripa. Kelly is probably the best bet!

What would you be doing professionally if you weren’t in your current industry? Toss up: private investigator or sports reporter What is your favorite book, movie or television show? 1985’s Witness or Far from Heaven of 2002

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What is your favorite aspect of the job? The community of those who work for and cherish The Islands of Tahiti is like no other. I’ve been in other companies in my long tenure in the travel industry, and in some roles I’ve come in contact with people for whom it’s “just a job.” This is not the case with the Tahiti travel industry. There’s a passion you don’t see in other areas of the world or other companies. Even competitors come together as colleagues for the greater good of the country and to share its unique characteristics. With the effect of COVID-19 on the travel industry, this has kept me positive and waking (almost) every day with a smile.

What’s the biggest business risk you’ve ever taken? I left one job after more than a decade for a new opportunity at another company with a higher title and salary. Ultimately the division folded, and I was laid off. Yet that time of looking for a job brought me to Tahiti Tourisme, the opportunity of a lifetime. It never gets old telling people what I do, and they say, “That sounds like the best job in the world!”

Who is someone you admire professionally in the travel industry? I’ve had the pleasure of working with Diane Moore for more than 20 years, during our time together at Crystal Cruises and when I joined Tahiti Tourisme in 2011, when

she was at the helm of Paul Gauguin Cruises.

Her intelligence, warmth and spirit are evident in everything she does. She served as a role model, personally and professionally.

AS A TRAVELER Tell us about a travel nightmare: In 1986 I was traveling home from a summer vacation in Greece and Yugoslavia with my brother. All Pan Am flights from Athens to JFK were full, so we took a flight on Saudia, with a lengthy layover in Jeddah. They weren’t used to seeing female, blonde, American teenagers at JED and whisked us to a private room and found us the first flight out. In hindsight it was an experience, not a nightmare.

Share a comical travel experience: When I was 6 years old, my mother and I went to London for a weekend trip. At Heathrow, my mother went to the counter to get us food, telling me to sit at the table and wait, keeping an eye on me from the line. I kept switching tables, and it took her a while to realize I was not familiar with the European custom of communal tables, and every time another diner sat at my table, I moved. We get a chuckle out of it to this day!

What is your preferred method of travel — planes, trains, automobiles, cruise ships — and why? I love planes, and given my father’s role with Pan American Airways, I acquired a taste for caviar at a young age! I also got the cruise bug quite early. Interline discounts were quite generous in the 1970s and ’80s, and my dad took my brother and me on incredible trips, planting my love of ocean travel which led to my 13-year career at Crystal Cruises.

What has been the best example of customer service you’ve experienced during your travels? I traveled to Tahiti to celebrate my 50th birthday with a group of family and friends. We booked a day of snorkeling with rays and sharks and gourmet local lunch on a private motu. In addition to Hinano, Tahiti’s national beer, and Champagne, Moana Adventure Tours served a delicious frosted chocolate cake. How do you keep a chocolate cake from melting in the middle of summer on a white-sand beach in Bora-Bora?

That’s customer service!

PHOTO: © TAHITI TOURISME NORTH AMERICA

What historical figure, dead or alive, would you love to have dinner with? I grew up on airplanes, and my dad’s aviation career (on the business side) allowed me to visit 60 countries by the time I was 18. Combine that with my fascination with mystery, and I’ll go with Amelia Earhart.

2021 Leisure Lifestyle Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

Best Beaches ___________________________________________________________________________

Best River Cruise Line __________________________________________________________________

Best Historical Attractions, Domestic __________________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Entertainment _______________________________________________________

Best Historical Attractions, International _______________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Dining ________________________________________________________________

Best Adventure Destination, Domestic_________________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Spa ____________________________________________________________________

Best Adventure Destination, International _____________________________________________

Best Cruise Ship Excursions ___________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in the United States _________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Rewards Program ___________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Europe_____________________________________________________

Best Cruise Port ________________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Africa ______________________________________________________

Best Luxury Leisure Hotel Group in the World _______________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Asia________________________________________________________

Best Hotel Chain Resorts ______________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Latin/South America______________________________________

Best Pet-Friendly Hotel ________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Mexico_____________________________________________________

Best Family Resort Chain in the World ________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination for Groups (Four or More)___________________________________

Best All-Inclusive Resort_________________________________________________________________

Best Weekend Destination in North America__________________________________________

Best Tour Operator_____________________________________________________________________

Best Weekend Destination in the World_______________________________________________

Best Airport for Layovers_______________________________________________________________

Best North American Ski Destination___________________________________________________

Best Airport Recreation_________________________________________________________________

Best International Ski Destination______________________________________________________

Best Stopover Program_________________________________________________________________

Best Caribbean Island _________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Airline ____________________________________________________________________

Best Island in Europe __________________________________________________________________

Best Airline Onboard Entertainment___________________________________________________

Best Island Pacific Rim _________________________________________________________________

Best Airline Onboard Menu_____________________________________________________________

Best Family Cruise Line ________________________________________________________________

Best Premium-Economy Class ________________________________________________________

Best Luxury Cruise Line ________________________________________________________________

Best Pet-Friendly Airline ________________________________________________________________

Best Value Cruise Line__________________________________________________________________

Best Luxury Vehicle ____________________________________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Suites _________________________________________________________________

Best Car Rental _________________________________________________________________________

Best Adventure Cruise Line ____________________________________________________________

Favorite Luxury Watch Brand __________________________________________________________

Best Small-Ship Cruise Line ____________________________________________________________

Best Destination Jewelrey Brand _______________________________________________________

Best Large-Ship Cruise Line ___________________________________________________________

Favorite Liquor Brand___________________________________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or fax to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/leisureballot Name Street Address City

State

ZIP Code

Home Phone

Email

TECHNOLOGY

Recreational Revolution Upgrade all your activities with the most advanced devices.

BY JACK GUY

BIOLITE FIREPIT + Brooklyn, New York-based, BioLite won plenty of plaudits for its FirePit, and it’s made a number of upgrades for 2021. This portable campfire burns wood or charcoal and even comes with a grill grate if you want to prepare food.

Bluetooth connectivity and a number of battery-powered fans allow you to control the intensity of the fire using the accompanying app, and it can burn for up to 30 hours straight. Measuring 27 inches by 13 inches by 15.8 inches, the FirePit+ is large enough to keep a small group warm while remaining portable. $249.95. bioliteenergy.com

WYZE SCALE Whether you are trying to lose weight or put on muscle, this smart scale will help you reach your goals. It tracks 12 metrics — such as body fat, muscle mass and body water percentage — so you can get an all-around view of your health. It sends the data to the Wyze app for easy analysis, and it syncs with popular fitness apps, too. $19.99. wyze.com

OLYMPUS TOUGH TG-6 WATERPROOF CAMERA Now that the weather is getting warmer, it’s time to get back outside. Take this durable action camera from Olympus with you and shoot your adventures, safe in the knowledge it can handle even the toughest conditions. Weatherproof construction keeps out dust, dirt and snow, plus it’s waterproof to 50 feet and shockproof from seven feet. There’s no compromise on performance, either, with a 12-megapixel sensor, a 3-inch rear display and 4K video capabilities. $449.99. getolympus.com

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The smart home revolution continues apace, with big companies like Amazon and Google battling it out to control your devices. Smart devices might be firmly in the mainstream now, but they also sparked privacy concerns. That’s where Hubitat comes in, with the Elevation smart home hub processing data locally rather than sending it to the cloud. A Hubitat app comes in versions for both iOS and Android, and the device offers similar features to the more popular brands with improved security. $129.95. hubitat.com

PHOTOS: © BIOLITE, © WYZE, © OLYMPUS, © HUBITAT

HUBITAT ELEVATION

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PHOTOS: © MONKEY BUSINESS IMAGES | DREAMSTIME.COM, © AMMENTORP | DREAMSTIME.COM

Boundless Opportunity Plan for future travel with The Marriott Bonvoy Boundless™ Card.

ANTICIPATE THE JOY OF FUTURE TRAVEL with The award-winning Marriott Bonvoy Boundless™ Card, recipient of the 2020 GT Tested Reader Survey award for Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card, and the 2020 Wherever Award for Best Family-Friendly Credit Card Rewards Program.

Awarded by the readers of Global Traveler, the prestigious GT Tested Reader Survey awards celebrated its 17th year in 2020, garnering more than 20,000 votes from frequent, luxury business and leisure travelers around the world. These are the in-the-know travelers that voted The Marriott Bonvoy Boundless™ Card best in the business.

The readers of whereverfamily.com, the travel source for the modern traveling family, decide the winners of the Wherever Awards, awarding The Marriott Bonvoy Boundles™ Card the highest honors.

The Marriott Bonvoy Boundless™ Card inspires travel that moves you and offers cardmembers endless travel possibilities with 6X points at

more than 7,000 properties that participate in the Marriott Bonvoy™ program, including 30 brands to choose from, ranging from luxury accommodations to longer-stay options.

Cardmembers also receive 2X points on all other purchases.

Every purchase, from travel to gas, groceries, dining out and everything in between, helps you get to your next adventure quicker. Cardmembers can also add authorized users to expand earning potential. Family or friends will earn points on all purchases.

Accounts subject to credit approval. Restrictions and limitations apply. Marriott Bonvoy Boundless™ credit cards are issued by JPMorgan Chase Bank, N.A. Member FDIC. Offer subject to change. See MarriottBonvoy.com/ChaseCards for pricing and rewards details.

The Contactless Symbol and Contactless Indicator are trademarks owned by and used with the permission of EMVCo, LLC. © 2021 JPMorgan Chase & Co. All rights reserved.

Even this past year, when travel was mainly on pause, The Marriott Bonvoy Boundless™ Card provided rewards for cardmembers to earn toward future stays. To help cardmembers plan for their next journey, The Marriott Bonvoy Boundless™ Card offered several exciting offers throughout the year, which allowed cardmembers to earn points toward free nights at hotels participating in Marriott Bonvoy worldwide.

There’s no reason to wait, learn more and apply for The Marriott Bonvoy Boundless™ Card today at MarriottBonvoy.com/ChaseCards.

WINE & SPIRITS

Not Just Desserts Sweet wines hit the spot … at the end of a meal or on their own.

W

for sweet wines in the country.

The cool climate of Canada is ideal for one of the most difficult wines to make: ice wine. Left on the vine long after the rest of the grapes have been harvested, frozen grapes yield just drops of the extraordinarily sweet juice that produces ice wine. Look for those from Inniskillin, Château des Charmes, Rockway Vineyards, Reif Estate Winery, Pillitteri Estates and Ziraldo Estate Winery — all wineries that have consistently produced winning ice wines.

Prices range about $25–80 for a 375ml bottle.

SAY “SWEETS TO THE SWEET” TODAY, AND WE THINK OF ROMANCE, LOVE, SWEETS TO EAT AND SWEETS TO DRINK. New York State’s northern Finger Lakes District, also a cool region, is home to Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, a producer of well-made sweet wines. The winery’s Riesling Noble Select Magdalena Vineyard balances a luscious sweetness with clean acidity, apricot flavors and citrus fruits ($75/375ml bottle).

And for the sweetest of all, try Noble Select Riesling Josef Vineyard, with the most intensely concentrated balance of fruit flavors, sweetness and refreshing acidity ($125/375ml bottle).

All promise sweets to the sweet.

PHOTO: © BEE D’VINE, © HERMANN J. WEIMER, © RUSTER AUSBRUCH

hen Shakespeare wrote “Sweets to the sweet” in Hamlet, they were words delivered with flowers scattered in Ophelia’s grave. How the centuries changed the meaning. Say “Sweets to the sweet” today, and we think of romance, love, sweets to eat and sweets to drink.

Sweets to drink are an especially intriguing group, which includes a charming entry from California: Bee d’Vine, a honey wine launched in 2014. Honey has been used to make alcoholic drinks for millennia. In keeping with its long history, Bee d’Vine is made traditionally: solely from honey, water and yeast. Its Demi Sec, softly sweet, is satin-smooth with a floral background, a hint of almond and, yes, an aroma and aftertaste of honey ($29/375ml bottle). And here’s the latest buzz: In November 2020 Bee d’Vine entrepreneur Ayele Solomon appeared on Shark Tank, winning a “4-shark offer” and accepting a $750,000 investment in his business.

In Austria in the town of Rust, about six miles from the Hungarian border, Heidi Schröck produces an outstanding, naturally sweet Ruster Ausbruch wine called On the Wings of Dawn from a blend of grapes. It is a rich, savory wine with tones of peaches, a touch of cinnamon, a lively citrus quality and a marvelous creamy finish ($75/375ml bottle). In October 2020 Ruster Ausbruch wines received their own Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) designation, the first given exclusively

BY EUNICE FRIED

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WEALTH

Working Abroad Consider the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion on your U.S. tax return.

BY KEVIN RYAN

PHOTO ILLUSTRATION: © TRACEY CULLEN

FOREIGN EARNED INCOME IS TYPICALLY INCOME RECEIVED FOR SERVICES PERFORMED IN A FOREIGN COUNTRY.

U

.S. citizens and resident aliens working abroad are required to report their worldwide income to the IRS annually, regardless of where they live or work, but they may benefit from the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion.

This exclusion allows eligible individuals to elect to exclude all or a portion of their foreign earned income for 2020 up to a maximum of $107,600 (note this amount is indexed for inflation annually). Taxpayers must meet the eligibility requirements to claim the exclusion and should consider whether or not the exclusion is beneficial to their individual tax situation or if they should consider other tax credit options.

Individuals are eligible if they have foreign earned income while their tax home is in a foreign country and they meet either the bona fide residence test or physical presence test.

Foreign earned income is typically income

received for services performed in a foreign country. Examples of earned income are salaries, wages, bonuses, commissions and costof-living allowances received.

The IRS describes an individual’s tax home as the place where one is engaged to work permanently or indefinitely. A frequent business traveler may not have a regular place of business, and then a tax home can be considered where one habitually lives. To meet the bona fide residence test, one must be considered a bona fide resident of a foreign country or countries for an entire year. A U.S. resident alien must also have a citizenship or nationality from a country that has an income tax treaty in effect to meet this test. Generally, a taxpayer is considered a bona fide resident of a country if the taxpayer goes to work in that country for an indefinite amount of time and establishes living quarters there for themselves and their family. To meet the physical presence test the

taxpayer must be physically present in a foreign country or countries for at least 330 full days (for any reason) during a consecutive 12-month period. This 12-month period can begin on any day of the month and does not need to be in a calendar year.

To claim the exclusion, the taxpayer must file Form 2555 (an affirmative election under IRC Section 911) with their tax return by the filing due date (including extensions) for the first year the exclusion is claimed. The form must be filed annually for all years the exclusion is claimed until it is revoked. In the first year of claiming exclusion, the taxpayer may benefit from filing an extension in order to fulfill the 330-day count for the physical presence test.

The exclusion will remain in effect until the taxpayer revokes it.

Each taxpayer’s situation is different and requires thoughtful planning to determine which approach is more beneficial: either claiming the foreign tax credit for taxes paid on income earned abroad, or filing to exclude the income under the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion.

Generally, taxpayers living in countries with tax rates higher than those of the United States may benefit more from foreign tax credit planning than from taking the exclusion. The exclusion is generally more beneficial if the taxpayer’s income is below the exclusion amount or the taxpayer lives or earns a living in a low-taxing jurisdiction. An international tax advisor should perform an analysis to determine the best approach for an individual’s tax needs.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice.

Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.

MARCH 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

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Coral Bloom The Red Sea Development Company’s new project will protect Shurayrah Island.

THE CORAL BLOOM CONCEPT, a collaboration between The Red Sea Development Company and architectural firm Foster + Partners, was launched this month by Saudi Arabia’s His Royal Highness Prince Mohammed bin Salman, Crown Prince and chairman of The Red Sea Development Company, having received his approval for development.The concept will seamlessly blend in, and protect and enhance the natural environment of Shurayrah Island.

Overall, The Red Sea Project is a luxury, regenerative tourism destination that will set new standards in sustainable development over 28,000 square kilometers of pristine land along Saudi Arabia’s west coast. The development includes an archipelago of more than 90 islands,

with mountain canyons, dormant volcanoes and cultural and heritage sites. When completed in 2030, the destination will include 50 resorts, more than 1,000 residences, and leisure and entertainment amenities including marinas, championship golf courses and more. Work is on track to welcome the first guests by the end of 2022, with the international airport and first

hotels open.

Known as the world’s most ambitious regenerative tourism project, TRSDC unveiled a striking image for the island, with John Pagano, CEO, saying, “We expect guests to be awed by what they see when they first arrive at The Red Sea Project, enjoying a truly immersive barefoot luxury experience. The Coral Bloom designs, taking

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inspiration from the incredible flora and fauna found uniquely in Saudi Arabia, promise to make that vision a reality.”

Pagano continued, “Shurayrah Island is the gateway to The Red Sea Project so it’s important that it sets the standard in groundbreaking architecture and sustainable design, not just for our destination, but globally too. This is achieved by going beyond simply protecting the environment, to applying a regenerative approach.”

Additionally, the hotel designs responded to the changing world over the last year. For example, internal corridors have been removed as demand grows for space and seclusion in light of the current pandemic. The resorts will be created with lightweight materials with a low thermal mass, manufactured elsewhere to make construction more energy-efficient and with less of an environmental impact.

Biodiversity is front and center for all The Red Sea Project’s plans, which are designed to avoid disruption of the island’s mangroves and other habitats. They also allow for natural erosion defense and create new habitats through landscaping. The Coral Bloom concept outlines details for the 11 hotels of Shurayah Island, offering more space immersed in the natural landscape, allowing the beauty of the island to shine through first and foremost. New beaches will be created, as well as a new lagoon. Together, the enhancement will raise the land level as a layer of protection against rising sea levels.

Distinguished hotel brands will operate the 11 hotels on the island. With respect to the natural environment, no high-rise buildings will be allowed, ensuring spectacular views, and the buildings, using low-impact materials, will be perfectly incorporated. The vision for Shurayrah

comes from the natural state of the island — think hotels appearing to have washed up on shore nestled among the dunes, with every new addition enhancing what already exists.

The environment is a primary focus from beginning to end, with TRSDC committed to a 30 percent net conservation benefit by 2040. The world’s largest district cooling plant, powered by renewable energy 24 hours a day, will facilitate efficient centralized cooling across Coral Bloom, and the entire destination will be powered by renewables, including the largest battery storage system in the world. Shurayrah is one of 22 islands selected for development, and master planning leaves 75 percent of the project’s islands untouched.

The future is bright, and a new standard for tourism is being developed in Saudi Arabia. Learn more at theredsea.sa.

LEARN MORE AT theredsea.sa

SPAS

Sweet Treat

Melt into chocolate-infused bliss at The Spa At The Hotel Hershey.

Indulge in Luxury: The Hotel Hershey guestroom balcony PHOTO: © HOTEL HERSHEY

THE SPA AT THE HOTEL HERSHEY 100 Hotel Road Hershey, PA 17033 tel 717 533 2171 chocolatespa.com

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BY SHARON KING HOGE

fter a full-body exfoliation, I was slathered head to toe with chocolate moisturizer, a rich blend of shea butter and cocoa essential oil gently massaged onto all my limbs before they were wrapped in a layer of sheets. At the Hershey Spa it’s called a chocolate hydrating body wrap, and now, after a gentle head massage, I’m absorbing the balm, stretched out prone on the treatment table like a giant chocolate bar.

In truth, after a day in “The Sweetest Place on Earth,” I’m probably closer in shape to a plump little Hershey’s Kiss. Predictable chocolate immersion kicked off with a complimentary Hershey’s bar (my choice of milk or dark chocolate), offered when I checked into my room at the Hotel Hershey. For dinner in the cozy Harvest restaurant, I chose Hershey’s Cocoa barbecued ribs, then proceeded to the Iberian Lounge for a chocolate panna cotta dessert and a signature chocolate martini (a skewered Hershey’s Kiss substituting for the olive).

From its street lights shaped like candy kisses to the Cocoa Cruiser roller coaster in the Chocolate World theme park, every aspect of Hershey, Pennsylvania, pays tribute to its enlightened entrepreneur, Milton S. Hershey. After devising a recipe for affordable milk chocolate, he estab-

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lished a factory in 1903, selecting this region for its abundant milk, water, railroads and workers, and then set about creating a model community with churches, schools, theaters, and parks to keep employees happy. The utopian village flourished into a full-fledged resort with a zoo, botanical garden, lodging, museums, outlet mall and interactive activities.

The Hotel Hershey, principal lodge of Hersheypark, is another extension of the founder’s fantasy, an exotic Mediterranean-style tile and mosaic concoction inspired by Milton and Kitty Hershey’s overseas travels.

Updated guestrooms are serene, spacious and comfortable, and 20 years ago the property added a spa, a three-story section replicating features of the magnate’s High Point mansion. Stained glass, polished marble and warm pecan paneling decorate the salon and treatment rooms, solitude spaces and the sprawling Oasis first-floor “social spa” with a restaurant, couches, upholstered armchairs and outdoor porches in summer. Hotel guests and drop-ins can spend the day lounging in robes while interspersing treatments, relaxation and light meals. With therapies tailored to men, women, pre-natal and teens, many families and couples come to celebrate birthdays, reunions, honeymoons and anniversaries.

Early arrival to appointments is encouraged, enabling clients to “relax

before relaxation.” After changing into robes and slippers, they’re escorted into a Quiet Room (one a copy of Hershey’s paneled High Point library) and offered a choice of refreshments: trail mix, tea, water and, of course, Hershey’s Kisses, chocolate muffins and hot chocolate.

Four treatment series reflect Hershey themes: Rose Garden complements the Hershey Gardens arboretum with remedies employing antioxidants and rose oil to encourage radiant, petal-soft skin. Inspired by the surrounding rural landscape, Country Abundance treatments are imbued with hydrating lavender, milk and honey. Cuban Experience acknowledges the plantation town just east of Havana that Milton Hershey established to assure a stable source of sugar. It features raw sugar, jasmine and lime solutions applied in invigorating “mojito” massages and body wraps.

But as the spa website makes clear, the heart of the spa revolves around the Everything Chocolate services: chocolate wraps and facials, cocoa massages, whipped cocoa bath and the chocolate-dipped strawberry immersion. Chocolate even pervades all four stages of the Sweet Feet pedicure: chocolate body scrub exfoliation, cocoa oil massage, dark chocolate mousse mask and a final coat of cocoa body lotion — all procedures enjoyed while sipping a cup of hot chocolate.

Staff at the spa are all friendly and accommodating, leading tours through the facilities and offering refreshments. Gratuities of 20 percent are automatically added to spa prices, which range around $70 for manicures and pedicures, $150–305 for massages and $205 and up for experience packages. For weekend bookings, an extra $10–35 is added to each fee.

During the pandemic, some spa services and amenities have been adapted or temporarily discontinued. Facials, body scrubs, wet wraps, immersions, rain showers and makeup services aren’t currently offered. The Steam Room and Oasis restaurant are closed, and capacity of the Aromatherapy Inhalation Room and the Quiet and Silent rooms is limited.

Spa guests can sample a variety of activity options to counterbalance the omnipresent cocoa calories. A fitness center with views toward the forest offers a Peloton, Life Fitness machines, exercise balls and mats. Workout classes are offered in the yoga studios and the indoor and outdoor swimming pools. Three hiking trails and paths offer strolls through the 23-acre Hershey Gardens which evolved from the Hershey family’s love of roses.

Learning the history of the town and the legacy of its model community adds an extra dimension to the spa experience. The founder’s vision endures, and I left Hershey surfeited in chocolate, inside and out.

Chocolate Everything: Spa treats PHOTOS: © HOTEL HERSHEY

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GOLF

A Florida Outing

Join in the popular pastime at The Concession Golf Club. BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Florida’s Finest: Hole 9 PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

THE CONCESSION GOLF CLUB 7700 Lindrick Lane Bradenton, FL 34202 tel 941 322 1922 theconcession.com

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he Concession Golf Club is the preeminent private course and club in Western Florida and often ranks among the top courses in the entire state. Anyone familiar with Florida golf knows this is quite a competitive list; Florida boasts some of the best courses in the country. Add the positive effects of the pandemic on the golf industry — the latest numbers show a massive uptick in play — and you have a dynamite mix for success. Membership director Hunter Talcott spoke with me at length when we played the course last month. He confirmed the great growth of golf during COVID and felt this was a sustainable level that will continue well after the crisis is behind us.

“Everyone is moving to Florida, and golf is benefiting,” Hunter said. This is evidently true, as we were joined for the round by Frank Wood, a recent Connecticut transplant and digital learning executive, and Wayne Tallman of Global Traveler’s Advisory Board, who was spending the winter months in Sarasota. The overall openness of the state and the great ability to be outdoors make Florida attractive.

The Concession name comes from the 1969 Ryder Cup when Jack

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Nicklaus famously conceded the final putt on the 18th hole at Royal Birkdale Golf Club in Southport, England, to Tony Jacklin, resulting in the first tie in the cup’s history. Nicklaus’ concession was in many ways an olive branch offered due to previous unsportsmanlike conduct of both teams during the three-day match. Many years later, the two came together to create and design this course in the Lakewood Ranch section of Manatee County. Opened in 2006 as a Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf Course, Concession matured into a must-play venue with a friendly and family-oriented atmosphere. Hunter is proud of the new par-3 course which offers a great way to introduce young players to the game.

HOLE 1 366 yards, par 4 We decided to play from the blue tees, which is a total of 6,440 yards — a little on the short side for Hunter and maybe a little beyond our handicaps. Nonetheless, the first hole is always a

great place to show off your nerves as you begin a round in a challenging course design.

I took the first honors and hit a decent ball, landing just right of the first sand trap on the left. Wayne followed suit, landing in the trap, and Frank followed right behind me, short of my ball on the side of the trap. Hunter killed a ball, which traveled strong but too far left and hit a provisional. Our caddie, Jack, found Hunter’s ball, which bounced out of the trees and lay in a great position to the pin. Hunter landed on the green for a one-putt birdie, Wayne picked his ball out of the trap to the green for par, and Frank and I duffed extra shots for bogey.

HOLE 7 527 yards, par 5 A challenging par 5 which doglegs left around a slew of traps presents an interesting driving decision. Off the tee, I planned to stay far away from the traps — a good idea, as catching them can put you in a relentless bad shot position. I drove over the traps, not cutting the hole too much, and landed squarely on the fairway. My second was a clean 3-wood shot that I thought might be too far right, but Hunter assured me it was in a great position.

Wayne and Frank overcompensated too far right and played catch-up to the green. Frank “Chili” dipped a couple of balls in the marshy final 130 yards to the green. Hunter caught the line of traps on the drive and had a real beauty to get back in play. Unfortunately, the

best score was a bogey by me and Hunter, and we are still calculating Frank’s score — it remains under review!

HOLE 13 495 yards, par 5 This is a beautiful hole, and it holds something basic in the design important to note.

Nicklaus sloped the fairways so you must shoot more to the right than the eye would ever consider. This was a killer for me. I hit a great drive, but Hunter said, “Not sure” as it was in flight. The ball bounced and continued straight and then started rolling left, ending up in the water. Hunter hit a powerful shot to the center of the fairway, and the “left roll” had no effect on him. Wayne and Frank hit great balls, learning from my error and aiming farther right. The fairway curves left around a large lake and then straightens out to the hole. A large, deep bunker caught Frank’s ball, making for a challenging out to the green.

Hunter played the hole in textbook fashion, scoring yet another birdie, and I had a bogey.

HOLE 14 166 yards, par 3 This hole appears picturesque from the tee box, with water and a small bridge. Don’t let this serene setting put you at ease, as this turns out to be a challenging hole. We were about 172 yards away, so I decided to use one of my new rescue clubs. Unfortunately, al-

though the distance was just a little long, the ball shot left but landed safely on a nice patch of grass behind the green; up and down, I was able to score a par. Others in the group had equal issues finding the green, some left and some right, making this hole more difficult than it seemed from the tee box.

PicturePerfect: Hole 10 and Hole 7 PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

HOLE 18 416 yards, par 4 From the tee box there is a magnificent view of the clubhouse through the narrow shoot to the fairway, which is quite large. Trying to make the best of the last hole, I swung away, sending my ball in play but a little farther left than I would have liked. Hunter killed a ball straight, followed by equally decent drives from Frank and Wayne. The hole is wellbunkered on either side, and any one of these traps can capture a player’s hope for birdie or par. I took the rescue club again, not learning a lesson from my previous use, and sent the ball a little too far left in a planting area just left of the green. I had to take an unplayable penalty which dashed my hopes for par. Hunter landed on the green and secured his par while Wayne missed the green, chipping and two-putting for bogey.

What an enjoyable day and an honor to have Hunter join us to offer some club and course insights. Nicklaus really created a challenging and beautiful course. Afterward, we enjoyed drinks at the grill overlooking the 18th green.

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CHEFS

Delectable Legacy

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fter stints as the director of culinary operations at Rosewood Hong Kong and executive chef at The RitzCarlton Shanghai, Pudong, Chef Sandro Gamba joined The Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo as executive chef in November 2020, creating distinct and delectable menus for the hotel’s seven restaurants and bars.

Azure, a Michelin-starred French restaurant, overlooks Tokyo from the hotel’s 45th floor while bringing modern French cuisine to life. At Towers, enjoy lunch, brunch and dinner featuring local seafood, seasonal produce, chops and Akaushi prime rib. Traditional Japanese kaiseki is served at Hinokizaka. Views complement the culinary offerings available at The Lobby Lounge.

Gamba’s career has spanned more than 20 hotels around the world and garnered him multiple accolades and awards. His passion for cooking also led to his love of photography, both allowing him to be creative and connect with people.

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WHICH FOOD IS YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE? AND ON THE OPPOSITE END OF THE SPECTRUM, WHAT IS ONE INGREDIENT OR FOOD YOU HATE TO USE? Anything sweet! My father was a pastry chef, so I grew up surrounded by delicious, freshly made sweets and pastries.

Any cakes, chocolate and pastries quickly became one of my favorite things to eat and still is today, although I do have to limit how much I have.

There aren’t too many things I absolutely hate, but I am not the biggest fan of hot pot, a hugely popular dish in China, where I spent a lot of time. I don’t get the trend.

WHAT DISHES WOULD YOU SERVE AT A PRIVATE DINNER PARTY? I love to entertain friends by selecting a signature dish from some of the top chefs I had the opportunity to learn from throughout my career. I

BY KIMBERLY KROL INLANDER

might select an award-winning dish from a Michelin-starred chef such as Alain Ducasse and dazzle my guests with a recreation at home. It always impresses people when you provide a bit of history about the dish, too.

WHAT WAS THE FIRST MEAL YOU EVER PREPARED ON YOUR OWN? I remember it like it was yesterday!

I was 14 years old, and I made beef bourguignon for my parents. While it’s not the most difficult dish, it does involve many steps to ensure it’s prepared well. My parents loved it … they may have been lying to me. I’m not really sure, but I was still proud of myself, and it solidified my love for cooking.

IF YOU COULD DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE IN ONE DISH, WHICH DISH WOULD IT BE AND WHY? One dish that describes my cooking style best is risotto because

of its versatility and preciseness. This is a dish I made quite a lot over the years working with Alain Ducasse. It can be prepared simply and traditionally or upscale and fancy, but it must be made carefully and precisely with attention to detail.

WHICH CULINARY TREND WOULD YOU LIKE TO DISAPPEAR? Overcomplicating a dish by adding ingredients that don’t pair well just for design’s sake. For example, a powder swiped across a dish does not bring any flavor at all but is there just for decoration. I believe everything on the dish needs to make sense and add flavor.

THE RITZ-CARLTON, TOKYO 9 Chome-7-1 Akasaka Minato City, Tokyo 107-6245 Japan tel 81 3 3423 8000 ritzcarlton.com

PHOTO: © THE RITZ-CARLTON, TOKYO

Chef Sandro Gamba brings a wealth of culinary experience to The Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo.

2021 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

HOTEL BEST AIRLINE BEST

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The South Pacific________________________________________________________________ To South America and Central America_____________________________________________ To Japan______________________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline_________________________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline__________________________________________________________________

AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World___________________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents____________________________________________________________ Airport Dining________________________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping ____________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport_________________________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . .

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Best Individual Hotel in the World ________________________________________________ International Hotel Chain__________________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain______________________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel______________________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel _________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Website______________________________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs

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PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone

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CRUISING

Points North For passengers to Alaska, the rush begins.

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Natural Attraction: Seabourn at Misty Fjords PHOTO: © SEABOURN

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BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

fter a catastrophic no-sail season, cruise lines were buoyant about forthcoming operations in Alaska, the world’s fifth-most popular cruise destination. One in 10 Alaskans work in tourism-related industries, with passenger ships accounting for more than 1 million annual visitors. The desire to sail the waters of America’s last frontier has been pent up for many months by the pandemic, and the 49th state, along with cruise lines worldwide, was eager to see a vigorous return of coastal cruising this year, followed by full recovery in 2022.

Despite a mother lode of potential passengers and an impressive array of new health and safety protocols, the persistence of COVID-19 and related regulations promised a slow relaunch of Alaskan sailings. Cunard Line and Windstar Cruises both scratched Alaska schedules for 2021, and most cruise lines scaled back operations and put off early spring sailings. Then on February 5, 2021, the Transport Canada minister extended its order banning cruise ships carrying more than 100 passengers from its waters until February of next year.

Affected cruise lines suspended the sale of 2021 itineraries but did not immediately cancel their sailings, expressing the hope that progress in the fight against COVID, temporary changes to U.S. maritime regulations and/ or diplomatic measures might lead to the order being rescinded early, allowing them to salvage at least a portion of this season.

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In the meantime, the two biggest players in Alaskan waters, Princess Cruises and Holland America Line, announced a commitment to open some of their wilderness lodges in places like Denali, Fairbanks and the Kenai Peninsula for land vacations in the interior. Princess, which boasts more than half a century of service in Alaska, and Holland America, celebrating its 75th year in Alaska in 2022, the most of any passenger line, expressed their intention to “continue to maintain a focus on what we can do to support our fellow Alaska businesses, the thousands of people who rely on the tourism industry, and the regions in which we operate.” Next year both lines expect a full return to sailings departing primarily from Seattle and Vancouver, employing premium-service, mid-sized ships to hit the highlights of Southeast Alaska’s Inside Passage, a 1,000-milelong stretch rife with glaciers, fjords, snowy peaks, grizzly bears, majestic whales and historic harbors.

Other premium lines ply Alaskan waters, too. Viking Cruises will make plenty of 11-day sailings between May and September 2022 on the 930-passenger Viking Orion. Oceania Cruises’ 684-passenger Regatta will sail seven- to-11-day cruises roundtrip from Seattle from May to August in 2022.

And Windstar Cruises returns next year with a series of 11-day journeys linking Vancouver and Fairbanks via seven-day cruises and four-day inland tours. A team of eight onboard expedition experts enhance the experience aboard the

CRUISING SMALL IN THE TRUE ALASKA For those determined to cruise Alaska this summer, lines operating U.S.-flagged ships hosting fewer than 100 passengers may be able to ply those northern waters, depending on local health authorities and CDC directives.

UnCruise Adventures brings guests up close to glaciers, fjords and rugged wilderness expanses with opportunities to hike, kayak and paddle board.

It does so with an Alaskan fleet ranging from the 22-passenger Safari Quest to the 76-passenger Wilderness Discoverer.

Lindblad Expeditions/National Geographic also caters to adventurers, particularly those with an interest in the geo-sciences and wildlife.

Its Alaskan fleet of five ships, including the 100-passenger National Geographic Quest and 100-passenger National Geographic Venture, are set for eight different voyages of exploration in 2021, including a 22-day Ketchikan–Nome cruise that touches on one Russian port. The lines’ own certified photographers and naturalists are always on hand.

Wild Wonders: A Silversea Zodiac at Sawyer Glacier (top), seal jumping off a block of ice in front of Sawyer Glacier in Tracy Arm fjord (bottom left), and a brown bear in Chinitna Bay near Anchorage (bottom right) PHOTOS: © SILVERSEA

312-passenger, all-suite Star Breeze.

Passengers seeking plusher Alaska cruises on smaller, all-inclusive, high-luxury vessels will notice plenty of smooth sailing on the horizon. Seabourn will operate seven- to 11-day sailings on the 450-passenger Seabourn Odyssey between Vancouver and Juneau or roundtrip Vancouver in 2022. Notable stops include Glacier Bay, Misty Fjords, Haines, Sitka and Wrangell.

Between May and September of 2022 the allinclusive, all-suite operator Silversea Cruises offers seven-day Inside Passage cruises between Vancouver and Seward/Anchorage. The 596-passenger Silver Muse and the 388-passenger Silver Shadow share 32 sailing dates between them, visiting iconic Gold Rush ports and cruising past mighty Hubbard Glacier.

Celebrity Cruises will have three ships in Alaska next year. The 2,218-passenger Celebrity Millennium sails seven-night cruises between Vancouver and Seward/ Anchorage, while Celebrity Solstice and Celebrity Eclipse, each accommodating 2,852 guests, feature seven-night itineraries operating roundtrip from Seattle and Vancouver, respectively.

Like its high-luxury competitors, Regent Seven Seas strongly favors the seven-day Vancouver/Anchorage format. In 2022 the Seven Seas Mariner’s all-balcony suites will accommodate up to 700 passengers on each of its 18 Alaska cruises. For Crystal Cruises, the 980-passenger Crystal Serenity takes on a series of seven- or 11-night summer voyages between Vancouver and Anchorage (Whittier) or roundtrip from Vancouver.

For a local Alaska experience, Alaskan Dream Cruises, Sitka-based and run by an Alaskan family, operates six ships, accommodating 10 to 76 passengers. Combining historical walking tours, cultural performances, hiking and wildlife viewing, Alaskan Dream Cruises combs the Inside Passage, calling on Wrangell, Gustavius, Haines, Ketchikan and the self-carving splendors of Glacier Bay.

MARCH 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

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FEATURE: AWARD WINNERS

A World of Travel Celebrate the 2020 winners of FXExpress’ far-reaching awards. BY KIMBERLY KROL INLANDER

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ithout question, 2020 was a roller coaster, and it forced us all to pivot and adapt, leading us to honor all of the FXExpress Publications, Inc.’s awards together in December in a virtual celebration. We lauded the winners of our 17th annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards, the 17th annual Wines on the Wing airline wine survey, the Leisure Lifestyle Awards, the 2020 Airline and Hotel of the Year, the Wherever Awards from whereverfamily.com and The Trazees from trazeetravel.com.

A number of sponsors joined in the virtual festivities, including United Club Infinite Card from Chase, United Explorer Card from Chase, Ontario International Airport and IHG Business Edge.

It truly was a worldwide event: Winners from around the globe submitted video messages and photos, edited together into one spectacular event watched by people from every corner of the Earth. You can still check out the event on our websites — globaltravelerusa.com, trazeetravel.com and whereverfamily.com — or on our YouTube channel, gtmagtv.

Join us as we recap the winners of all of our awards across our three platforms. Congratulations to all the winners!

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1. Andrew Yiu, managing director, product design, Air Canada 2. Jamie Rhee, commissioner, Chicago Department of Aviation 3. Matthew Schlitz, general manager, Marriott CoBrand, JPMorgan Chase & Co. 4. Daniel Dwyer, manager, retail programs, Volvo 5. Vincent Frascogna, vice president, Americas, Etihad Airways 6. Konstantinos Charokopos, director, USA, Greek National Tourism Organization 7. Doug Abbott, director of IHG Business Edge, InterContinental Hotels Group 8. Kristin Carlson, managing director, Tahiti Tourisme North America

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1. Mark Thorpe, CEO, Ontario International Airport 2. Robert Warren, assistant director, Business Retention and Development, Miami International Airport 3. Kristin Shannon, vice president, Travel & Affinity Partnerships, Barclays 4 Jaesung Rhee, president and CEO, Seoul Tourism Organization 5. Offer Nissenbaum, managing director, The Peninsula Beverly Hills 6. Joseph Marinelli, president, Visit Savannah 7. Jennifer Plasket, senior vice president, marketing program manager, Bank of America 8. Hiro Yamada, senior director, sales, the Americas, All Nippon Airways

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1. Philippe Lacamp, senior vice president, Cathay Pacific Airways 2. Kristen Bowdoin, managing director, JPMorgan Chase & Co. 3. Ellen Bettridge, president and CEO, Uniworld Boutique River Cruises 4. Rafael Lizarraga, chief commercial officer, Posadas 5. Luc Bondar, president, MileagePlus, vice president, marketing & loyalty, United Airlines 6. Brad Shih, director, Taiwan Tourism Bureau 7. Badr Mohammed Al-Meer, chief operating officer, Hamad International Airport 8. Felipe Gutiérrez, executive chef, LATAM; María Alejandra Jarufe, onboard services customer experience senior manager, LATAM

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Peace and Quiet: Calistoga Ranch Spa exterior PHOTO: © CALISTOGA RANCH

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general manager, Cook Islands Tourism 4. Jamie Paiko, senior director, marketing, Cunard Line 5. Eoghan Slye, vice president, marketing, Hertz 6. Bruce Hodges, CEO, GOWAY 7. Danny Hughes, president of the Americas, Hilton Worldwide 8. Ramesh Cidambi, chief operating officer, Dubai Duty Free; Colm McLoughlin, executive vice chairman & CEO, Dubai Duty Free; Sinead El Sibai, senior vice president, marketing, Dubai Duty Free

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1. Nam-Soo Lim, executive vice president, Incheon International Airport 2. Jeff Foland, CEO, The Parking Spot 3. Alicia Cummings, vice president of marketing, Paul Gauguin Cruises 4. Seow Hiang Lee, CEO, Changi Airport Group 5. Fern Ottavio, sales and marketing manager, North America, TAP Air Portugal 6. Erin Goldmeier, director of public relations, Virginia Beach Convention and Visitors Bureau 7. Jason Nuell, global brand leader, premium brands, Marriott International 8. Marcelo Bottini, regional director, North America, Central America, Caribbean, Oceania, and Asia, Aerolineas Argentinas; Ricardo Fernandez, regional sales manager, Northern USA, Aerolineas Argentinas

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1. Yulia Spivakova, press secretary, Aeroflot 2. Alp Ozaman, marketing manager, Turkish Airlines 3. Mert Dorman, senior vice president, Turkish Airlines Corporate Club 4. Marcel Lekkerkerk, director, aviation marketing, Amsterdam Airport Schiphol 5. Kamal Roul, regional manager, Americas, Air India 6. Dawn Callahan, chief marketing officer, Boingo 7. Porsche Hsu, marketing director, the Americas, China Airlines 8. Claude Roussel, managing director, Sky Club, Delta Air Lines 9. Peter Tippen, head of marketing, global loyalty program, InterContinental Hotels Group

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1. Jan Swartz, group president, Princess Cruises 2. John Downey, president, the Americas, Hurtigruten Cruises 3. José Manuel de Juan, director, Tourist Office of Spain 4. Josh Leibowitz, president, Seabourn Cruise Line 5. Nick Panza, vice president, Americas, Air Tahiti Nui 6. Richard Krulik, CEO, Briggs & Riley 7. Rob Gurney, CEO, oneworld 8. Jason Montague, president and CEO, Regent Seven Seas Cruises 9. Joey Seow, regional vice president, the Americas, Singapore Airlines

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FEATURE

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Let the Games Begin The Tokyo 2020 Olympics works toward a mid-pandemic strategy.

U

Safety First: Olympic symbol at Japan Olympic Museum (top), and upgraded infection prevention and safety procedures PHOTOS: © KAWEE WATEESATOGKIJ | DREAMSTIME.COM, © TOKYO 2020 / SHUGO TAKEMI

ntil the end of 2019, The Tokyo Metropolitan Government, Tokyo 2020 Organizing Committee, the International Olympic Committee and the International Paralympic Committee collaborated to ensure the Tokyo 2020 Olympic and Paralympic Games would be greater than the sum of its events, athletes, teams and ancillary events. “The Reconstruction Games” became a prevailing theme, with numerous competitive soccer, baseball and softball events planned in Iwate, Miyagi and Fukushima, all affected by the 2011 Tōhoku earthquake and tsunami.

And then COVID-19 forced rescheduling of these best-laid plans and, ultimately, all international travel.

Nevertheless, once the new dates for the Olympic Games (July 23–Aug. 8, 2021) and Paralympic Games (Aug. 24–Sept.

5, 2021) were set, the Tokyo Organizing Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games announced in its updated media materials that the revamped Games would rise up as an embodiment of the human spirit that would transcend athletics.

Furthermore, tickets, tourism dollars and media coverage would still raise awareness and funds for the cities’ continued rebuilding. “Recovery from the earthquake remains one of the important themes for Tokyo 2020,” affirmed a spokesperson from the Tokyo Organizing Committee. “In order to support the reconstruction of the disaster-hit areas, we will leverage the power of sport to

generate hope and put smiles on the faces of children living in those areas. Another aim is to re-introduce the nature, cuisine, history, tradition and culture of the disaster-hit areas to the world, and show our gratitude to [those who provided] support during their recovery.”

Although a late January article appearing in The New York Times and other news outlets reported on consideration of a possible second cancellation amid some Japa-

BY ELYSE GLICKMAN

with preparations for the Games themselves, discussions are being held at a series of meetings attended by representatives of the Government of Japan, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government and Tokyo 2020,” assured the Games’ spokesperson.

“We are also discussing COVID-19 infection prevention measures, including the implementation of physical distancing at venues, with individual local municipalities.”

“IN ORDER TO SUPPORT THE RECONSTRUCTION OF THE DISASTER-HIT AREAS, WE WILL LEVERAGE THE POWER OF SPORT TO GENERATE HOPE AND PUT SMILES ON THE FACES OF CHILDREN LIVING IN THOSE AREAS. ANOTHER AIM IS TO RE-INTRODUCE THE NATURE, CUISINE, HISTORY, TRADITION AND CULTURE OF THE DISASTER-HIT AREAS TO THE WORLD, AND SHOW OUR GRATITUDE TO [THOSE WHO PROVIDED] SUPPORT DURING THEIR RECOVERY.” — SPOKESPERSON FOR THE TOKYO ORGANIZING COMMITTEE.

nese officials connected with the games, IOC president Thomas Bach and others swiftly pushed back, saying the show would go on, with safety modifications implemented accordingly. According to Reuters, the IOC was working in conjunction with the World Health Organization to help arrange for vaccines for more than 11,000 athletes. Taro Kono, the newly installed head of Japan’s inoculation push, meanwhile, announced vaccination of Japan’s 126 million citizens would begin in late February.

“In order to ensure the safety and security of the spectators and others, as

Optimistic ticket holders can also gain valuable insight from St. Louis-bred and Kyoto-based Japan expert/travel planner Robert Schrader. He observed several practices were already in place to slow the spread, including widespread signage about wearing masks, local police tasked to politely encourage citizens to stay home except when necessary, and regular spraying of the subways and other public areas with an antivirus solution between 1 and 5 a.m.

COVID or otherwise, Schrader advised visitors should adopt practices in place in Japan and other Asian countries

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for years. “Doing what the locals have long done out of habit to stay healthy, such as wearing masks at all times, is a good guideline to follow,” he said. “As there’s an unspoken pressure in Japanese culture to blend in, especially in densely populated places, wearing masks at all times and paying attention to other things they are doing may not only help you stay safe but also be a good guest in the host country.”

Permanent exhibits at the Japan Olympic Museum provide more fascinating insight, showing how past Games planners had to be as flexible as they were creative. One small corner of the museum is dedicated to the merchandise and story behind the Tokyo Olympics of 1940 — “the games that never were” — following Japan’s entry into World War II. A more prominent space is dedicated to the triumphant 1964 Tokyo Olympics, representing Japan’s rebirth and renewal in the years following the war. Other displays reflect the successes of the 1972 Sapporo and 1998 Nagano Winter Games.

It is also interesting to note the museum’s September 2019 opening took place just weeks before the worldwide unveiling of the Japan National Stadium, a few blocks away.

Architect Kengo Kuma’s design was introduced to the world as a grand but relevant representation of the future of the Games. It was also an Olympian achievement in its own right, considering his concept came from behind to win the day architecturally. In the wake of costs and complications in bringing Zaha Hadid’s original 2012 stadium proposal to fruition, Kuma’s environmentally friendly, functional design was embraced in late 2015 and went into production at the start of 2016.

Japan National Stadium, site for the opening and closing ceremonies, thoughtfully incorporates hardwood from most of Japan’s prefectures, forestry-inspired colored seating and design features that use natural lighting and air flow (mitigating the need

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for air-conditioning) to curb energy costs when in use. In the spirit of the repurposing part of the environmental equation, murals and other architectural elements from the original National Stadium — the hub for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics — were worked into the Heritage Zone.

In December 2019 architects and construction teams put the finishing touches on the Olympic/Paralympic Village complex at the Harumi/Tokyo Bay waterfront to house 18,000 athletes and personnel during the Olympic Games and 8,000 during the Paralympic Games. Architects leading that tour explained the LEED-certified development would be immediately repurposed after the Games as a residential and shopping area with winning views of the city.

The “village,” meanwhile, spreads exponentially when you consider there are 42 venues, including 10 in the Heritage Zone. With the watershed impact of COVID-19, stringent guidelines will be in place for the villagers — athletes, officials, judges, media, VIPs and broadcasters. In early February, the IOC, IPC and Tokyo 2020 began releasing a series of “Playbooks” that outline the personal responsibilities key stakeholders must adopt to ensure safe and successful Olympic and Paralympic Games this summer.

The first in the series is aimed at international federations and technical officials, to be followed by editions for the athletes, media and broadcasters. The first versions will be updated with more detail as the global situation relating to COVID-19 becomes clearer ahead of the Games.

IOC member and Australian Olympic Committee president John Coates announced close to press time that vaccines and rapid testing would be a part of the daily routine. He encouraged official attendees to not only follow these and their countries’

Ready for Action: (Left to right) Olympic mascots, interior of Olympic Museum near the new Japan National Stadium, inside National Stadium, 1964 mural at the new stadium, and Olympic Village PHOTOS: © ELYSE GLICKMAN, © F11PHOTO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ELYSE GLICKMAN, © ELYSE GLICKMAN

GAME PLAN Tristan Lavier, senior manager, Tokyo 2020 International Communications Committee, offers tips to ensure the best, safest experience: • Make a budget to determine how much cash you need per day for food and other essentials, as some smaller restaurants and shops do not accept credit cards.

• Purchase a PASMO or SUICA transportation card, which you can reload with money, from station vending machines. Both cards work for subway and bus lines in Tokyo and other cities in Japan.

recommended safety measures but also avoid overstaying in the Olympic Village and sightseeing. In his press appearances, IOC president Bach urged national Olympic committees to take the lead in modifying their athletes’ and support staff travel plans. To minimize the risk of infections, athletes competing in earlier events would arrive a few days early to prepare and then leave after their events so athletes competing later could be rotated in.

Schrader added Japanese news agency Kyodo News reported on installation of automated entry point temperature scanning devices (barring entry if an elevated temperature is detected), opening “fever centers” for foreigners (similar in structure to medical centers used by Japanese citizens) and even having spectator-free Games if the situation warranted it.

“What ultimately happens may not [be known] until the last moment,” Schrader said. “However, I can safely predict that in order to travel to Japan and other countries moving forward, purchasing a travel insurance policy will become a mandatory or at least an essential practice rather than an optional one. There’s a possibility Japan’s government and other countries will require visitors to have a policy that includes COVID coverage as a prerequisite for entering.”

The IOC still recommends purchasing tickets or packages through authorized ticket sellers in the United Sates, including

CoSport and JetSet Sports. Tickets for the opening ceremony range $220–2,680, while ticket prices for events run $60–1,160.

While the hottest tickets (such as swimming and gymnastics) were reportedly sold out, there were still tickets available at press time for basketball, boxing, volleyball and track and field events for as little as $44.

Most tickets purchased last year will be honored in 2021. In cases where events are moved to smaller venues (causing seats to be unavailable) or ticket holders are unable to attend, refunds will be issued through the authorized ticket sellers where they were originally purchased. Planned “Live Sites” (large TV screens broadcasting events in real time at many historic places, listed on tokyo2020 .org) were still in place, promising to bring a democratization to the Olympics experience for Japanese citizens and foreign visitors.

Schrader said that, based on his experience, capacity limits could be updated based on the COVID situation of the moment.

“In the wake of the Games’ postponement, we are planning to review the ‘Live Site’ venues and simplify their event content to facilitate COVID-19 countermeasures,” said the Games organizing committee spokesperson. “We’re making every effort toward holding a safe and secure Games, ensuring they are forever remembered as a symbol of unity and solidarity ... evidence we are stronger together in the battle to overcome this unprecedented crisis.”

• Thanks to Japan’s ultraefficient, comprehensive network of railways, you can stage your base camp in one of Tokyo’s outlying regions, where hotel options are somewhat more plentiful.

• As July and August are Tokyo’s warmest months, pack accordingly. Bring fans, empty water bottles and sports towels from home, or make a shopping list to purchase necessities when you arrive.

• The Japan Official Travel App (www.jnto.go.jp/smartapp) provides accessible, current information about traveling in Japan: transportation guides, travel tips, emergency medical assistance directives and embassy contact lists.

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[Hanok(Myeongjae House), Nonsan, Korea]

business destinations 50

MUSCAT

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NAPA VALLEY Wine Country: Napa Valley balloon tour over vineyards PHOTO: © MICHAEL WARWICK | DREAMSTIME.COM

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ATLANTA

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VIENNA

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WASHINGTON, D.C.

leisure destinations 64

MÁLAGA

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SEOUL

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CAYMAN ISLANDS

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NAPA VALLEY

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BORDEAUX

DESTINATION ONE | MUSCAT

Thoroughly Modern Muscat Oman’s prosperous capital impresses business and leisure travelers. BY SHARON KING HOGE

Monumental Sights: Muscat waterfront (left), and a giant frankincense burner built on a hill above Riyam Park (right) PHOTOS: © REJI ITTIACHAN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © NAPA735 | DREAMSTIME.COM

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ituated on the Arabian Peninsula, often amid Middle East chaos and turmoil, Oman manages to maintain a countenance of decorum and civility. Evading military clashes between its neighboring states, it implemented long-range plans for development and emergence. Much of the activity focuses on its capital city, Muscat.

Lying between the El Hajar Mountains and the Arabian Sea, Muscat serves as the seat of the country’s political, administrative and economic systems and home to a third of the country’s 4.5 million

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residents. With its proximity to the sensitive Strait of Hormuz, Muscat proved a historically important trading port in the Gulf of Oman, attracting foreign tradesmen and settlers who came to trade in fishing and agriculture. Persians, Spaniards and Ottomans were among overseas travelers to ancient Muscat, admired as “very elegant” by a 16th-century Portuguese writer.

Muscat’s sprawling 1,400 square miles divide into three principal urban areas: Muscat proper, the original settlement and now an enclave of restored historic homes and buildings; waterfront Mutrah, the

LODGING

harbor scene of shipping and cruise ship anchorages, upgrading to enhance its appeal to visiting tourists; and the commercial district centered in Ruwi, a cluster of high-rise apartments, office buildings and headquarters of international companies.

Ruled since the 18th century by the Al Said Dynasty, friction with imans of the interior destabilized the sultanate until 1970 when Qaboos bin Said, with assistance from the British, overthrew his father in a bloodless coup. Consolidating and renaming the region the Sultanate of Oman, Sultan Qaboos united tribal territories and launched programs to end the country’s isolation and to use oil revenues for modernization and development. Slavery was abolished, and freedom of religion was allowed.

To promote internal stability and to supplement expats and immigrants, in 1988 the country initiated Omanization. The local population is enlisted and trained to integrate into the workforce, expanding the economy and infrastructure. Companies are rewarded for increasing their quota levels toward the target goal of 72 percent local personnel. Five-year development plans initiated in 1976 resulted in the establishment of the petroleum industry; construction of the new shipping port Mina Qaboos; and new ministries for social services, health, education and the tourist industry. Oman emerged with a higher standard of living than

DINING

AL BUSTAN PALACE, A RITZ-CARLTON HOTEL Said to be one of the world’s finest hotels, this splendid urban resort was a favorite project of the late Sultan Qaboos.

AL ANGHAM Situated within the impressive Royal Opera House complex, Al Angham features Omani culture and décor, dishes, motifs and silverware inspired by the Sultanate’s heritage.

Al Bustan Street, Quron Beach $$$$$

463 Al Kharjiyah St., Royal Opera House $$$$

GRAND MILLENNIUM MUSCAT Conveniently located in the heart of the city’s business and diplomatic district near the two great malls, this 5-star hotel offers a Zanta spa and meeting rooms with panoramic city views.

Dohat al Adab St. 133, Al Khuwair $$$

BAIT AL LUBAN With views of the old port, the “house of Omani hospitality” serves traditional meals combining flavors from the early trading routes to East Africa and India.

Al Mina Street, Mutrah Corniche $$$$

KEMPINSKI HOTEL MUSCAT Arab and contemporary décor blend in this luxury 5-star beach resort with spa, tennis court and watersports on its threemile stunning coastline.

KURKUM Indian cooking — biryani, prawn curry, coconut rice — is the focus at this cozy and casual spot on the Corniche near the souk on Mutrah Harbor.

335 Street 6, Al Mouj $$$$

Way No. 08, Mutrah Corniche $$$

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that of neighboring countries.

As it has throughout history, trade dominates the economy, with oil products joining the traditional exports of dates, fish and mother-of-pearl. Muscat is home to multibillion-dollar conglomerate CK Industries, and major trading companies Suhail Bahwan Group and Saud Bahwan Group partnered with dozens of international corporations including Toshiba, Toyota, HewlettPackard, Mitsubishi, General Motors and Chrysler.

Petroleum Development Oman — a joint operation of the government, Shell, Total and Partex — reported a combined oil, gas and condensate production record for 2018 equal to 1.2 million barrels of oil equivalent per day, with a growing expansion into hydrocarbon, renewable energy generation and water management. Established in 1988, the principal stock exchange, the Muscat Securities Market, operates with transparency, disclosure regulations and requirements. Numerous hospitals, clinics, universities and schools thrive in the private sector.

The country applies a multitude of assets to lure investors: the educated and largely bilingual workforce; good health care and schools for families; easy access to global markets through a modern infrastructure network; and a stable, secure and predictable investment climate.

Dependent on imported goods, Oman promotes policies that welcome entrepreneurs and small businesses. Grain and vegetable farming, gas stations and haulage, tourism and perfume shops, electronics and home appliances, commodity stores, bars and restaurants list among suggested venture opportunities.

Clearly, the leadership of Sultan Qaboos deserves credit as a key to Oman’s progress. At his death in January 2020, he was the longest-serving monarch in the Arab world. A devotee of opera and classical music, he received his education in India and at the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst in England. While as sultan his rule was absolute, he was said to rely more on the business elite than on family members for counsel. Peaceful protests following the Arab Spring raised issues of job opportunities, salary increases, establishment of Islamic banks and expulsion of some government ministers.

Sultan Qaboos was succeeded by his first cousin, Haitham bin Tarik Al Said, who recently named his eldest son, Dhi Yazan, as crown prince, assuring an orderly succession in the future. In the past year Sultan Haitham has undertaken some political reforms, reshuffling cabinet positions, strengthening the powers and responsibilities of the regional governors and turning over some positions Qaboos held, such as foreign minister and finance minister, to others. He is also a proponent of economic diversity. In his first speech to the nation he promised to continue the “renaissance” of the late sultan and maintain the stability and peace his people have enjoyed.

Architectural Wonder: Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque main entrance PHOTO: © ORHAN ÇAM | DREAMSTIME.COM

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CHECKING IN WITH DEEPAK NAIR Founder, Editor and CEO, DestinationOman Tell us a little about yourself and your business.

I am an IT and media entrepreneur and the founder and CEO of my company, Interactive Digital Media Technologies LLC, which I set up in 1999. DestinationOman is the web portal founded by me in 2001 focused on Oman in-bound travel; the annual print edition first came out in 2004. I founded another portal focused on Oman corporate public relations called Oman Vistas in 2006.

By default, I am also the editor of DestinationOman and Oman Vistas.

How long have you lived in Muscat? What drew you to Oman initially, and what led you to make your home there?

I arrived here 29 years ago in 1992 from India, and Muscat has been my home since. I had just finished my master’s degree in Communication & Journalism in 1990 and was working as an advertising copywriter in Mumbai for 1.5 years when a friend offered to send me a visit visa to make a trip and explore the opportunities firsthand. So I came just for the lark of it, but I liked the place and stayed on, as I was lucky to find a job, too, in a reputed media company.

How has the country changed over the course of the time you have lived there?

When I arrived here in 1992 the country was modern, and over the years many more developments took place toward modernization. For example, there were no mega shopping malls and hypermarkets then, but now we have

huge malls and hypermarkets spread all around Muscat and also across the country in all 11 governorates. Private hospitals were also not heard of in the early 1990s, but now we have so many of them all over the country. We also have excellent infrastructure in the shape of roads and telecommunications.

What changes has Sultan Haitham Bin Tariq introduced over the past year, and how have they and his rule been accepted by the citizens?

His Majesty Sultan Haitham Bin Tariq had vowed to continue with the policies laid out by his predecessor, the late Sultan Qaboos, and that is what is happening. He has continued with his progressive vision, and citizens and residents of this blessed land are equally happy.

What do you think makes Muscat a good place to do business, and what sectors provide compelling opportunities for foreign investors and businesses?

It is not just Muscat, the capital city, but the entire Sultanate of Oman offers ample opportunities for foreign investors. The most important factors being a stable government, a most modern infrastructure, trade free zones and modern banking and financial systems. The Sultanate of Oman also offers excellent lifestyle and recreational facilities for foreigners.

What do you think are the best aspects of Muscat and Oman?

The best thing about Muscat or Oman is the people are kind and friendly; all foreigners and expatriates are treated well here, and every visitor would feel much at home and carry back good impressions. Muscat is a modern city which is blended with the rich culture and traditions of Oman and its beautiful people.

Modern Times: Deepak Nair (left), and access to the duty-free zone inside the new international airport of Muscat (right) PHOTOS: © DESTINATIONOMAN, © CHRISTOPHE TAUSCH | DREAMSTIME.COM

INFO TO GO Lying about 20 miles south of the old city on Sultan Qaboos Highway and originally called Seeb, Muscat International Airport is the country’s main airport and the hub for Oman Air and Salam Air. A new passenger terminal with 118 check-in counters and 45 gates opened in 2018, with further expansion planned to number it among the world’s top 20 airports.

Public buses stop in front of the airport area; hotel shuttles are preferred. Blue-and-white, metered taxis to the business district cost around $30.

JUST THE FACTS Time zone: GMT +4 Phone code: Country code: 968 City code: 24 Currency: Omani rial Key industries: Oil, manufacturing, transportation, tourism, fisheries, agriculture, mining

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DIVERSIONS History, beaches and culture provide abundant options for sightseeing and recreation. Visitors can charter boats for fishing and diving. The waterside corniche lined with date palms and monuments connects the historic fish market and Mutrah Souk. One of the oldest traditional markets in Oman, it features handicrafts, jewelry and silverware. Follow the corniche south toward the massive city gates into the ancient center, now a region of restored historic adobe huts and flowery boulevards surrounding the sultan’s palace.

Scattered in both regions, museums focus on culture and folklore.

The National Museum of Oman, opened in 2016, features digital immersive experiences and children’s discovery zones among its 14 permanent galleries. Tourist attractions include restored Portuguese forts Al Jalali, Al Mirani and Mutrah. Keep in mind offices close for lunch from noon to 2:30 p.m.; stores close from noon to COMING 1 p.m., then remain open until 8 p.m.

At night, the area north of Seeb AND GOING transforms into a warren of fish U.S. citizens must have restaurants and clubs where shop a valid passport with six windows display dazzling, colorful months validity and a visa. women’s ensembles of harem pants, No sponsor is required for gauzy veils and jangling coinage.

10-day, single-stay visas, The multidisciplinary Royal Opera which can be obtained House presents an incredible array online. Visas must be used of programs including ice skating within a month of approval; shows, classical ballet and opera, the fee is $160. symphonies and timeless Arab songs.

Oman’s leading arts and cultural OFFICIAL institution, this mammoth gold and LANGUAGE marble structure, surrounded by Arabic is official; many extensive gardens, merits a visit in residents are familiar with itself.

English. Hindi and Urdu are common among the sizeable Indian population.

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Dazzling Array: Mutrah Souk displays of traditional jewelry (above left) and assorted colorful fabrics and handbags (above right), and Royal Opera House entrance hall and exterior (below) PHOTOS: © NICOLA MESSANA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © IMRANDR | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALEXEY STIOP | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALEXEY STIOP | DREAMSTIME.COM

PHOTOS: © ALISON660 | DREAMSTIME, © IZANBAR | DREAMSTIME.COM, © JILLIAN CAIN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © FASHIONSTOCK.COM | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MELPOMENEM | DREAMSTIME.COM, © RAWPIXELIMAGES DREAMSTIME.COM, © JOCREBBIN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ROMAN KYRYLIUK | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ENGEL CHING | DREAMSTIME.COM

GET SOCIAL Make Global Traveler your travel companion! Like our Facebook page; connect with us on LinkedIn; and follow us on Twitter @GTmag #travelnews and #traveldeals, Instagram @globaltravelermag #snapshots and Pinterest pinterest.com/global traveler for travel updates, deals and more. Share your updates with us by using #globility. If you haven't checked them out lately, here's a sampling of what you may have missed:

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STATESIDE | ATLANTA

On the Rise Atlanta bustles with vibrant new development. BY JAN SCHRODER

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Reinvention: Atlanta cityscape PHOTO: © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME.COM

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aybe it’s because 40 percent of Atlanta was destroyed during the Civil War in 1864 and was forced to rebuild from its ashes.

Or maybe it’s due to later generations of visionaries who developed a racetrack into the world’s busiest airport, a soft drink into the world’s most recognized brand and a hot Southern city into host of the Centennial Summer Olympics.

Whatever the reason, this capital of Georgia is perpetually growing and reinventing itself.

In 2017 two major sports stadiums opened: Mercedes-Benz Stadium, home of the Atlanta Falcons, Atlanta United and the 2019 Super Bowl; and SunTrust Park, home of the Atlanta

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Braves. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport ushered in a $6 billion, 20-year renovation project. The airport also announced plans for the addition of an InterContinental hotel on its campus. Engineering a $55 million renovation, the Georgia World Congress Center increased its convention space to 1.5 million square feet with the completion of its 100,000-square-foot Exhibit Hall BC project and will break ground on a high-rise, 4-star Signia by Hilton this spring.

While many residential areas in the city maintain their charm with elegant homes, treelined streets and sidewalks, Atlanta’s commercial corridors remain in a constant state of change.

Former industrial areas and warehouses now host

apartments, condos, restaurants and retail. This includes the Westside Provisions District, which helped launch the industrial adaptive re-use trend in 2008.

Nearby lie Star Metals, a $330 million development that features state-of-the-art luxury residences, and the Goat Farm Arts Center. This abandoned textile mill where kids used to visit roaming goats later morphed into a ramshackle arts compound with rentable studio and event space. (The goats eventually were evicted due to rowdy behavior.) The site plans to transform into a live-work community with an arts-based hotel, restaurants, commercial building and new home for The Museum of Contemporary Art Georgia.

Perhaps nothing changed the soul of my hometown as much as the Atlanta BeltLine, which won the hearts of residents and visitors alike who flock to its paths.

Envisioned by Ryan Gravel for his Georgia Tech master’s thesis and eventually adopted by the city, this system of multiuse trails and parks was constructed on a 22-mile loop of former railroad corridors. Several segments are open, with full completion slated for 2030.

One popular section runs between Ponce City Market and Krog Street Market, two successful mixeduse developments with food halls. Ponce City Market, constructed in a former 1 million-square-foot Sears building, offers offices, residences and one of the city’s most popular rooftops. A much smaller development, Krog Street Market sprang up in an abandoned Atlanta Stove Works warehouse and features bars, restaurants and retail.

Gravel said of the BeltLine, “I’ve been surprised by how much people love it and want to be a part of it.

People want to move there, and companies want to be on it. The BeltLine came to life because people in the city fell in love with the vision it showed for the future.”

Illuminarium — an experiential attraction and immersive event space — opens this summer on the BeltLine just south of Ponce City Market. The multipurpose space converts into a transformative venue for corporate and social events, presentations and celebrations of all kinds, using digital technology (with Panasonic as its partner) to create communal, connective entertainment

meant to be enjoyed as a shared human experience.

Chris Carter, founder and partner, Vantage Realty Partners, said Atlanta struggles with the same issues other cities encounter as residents reverse the mid-20thcentury exodus and move back into the cities. “Many city planners and developers still only know the practices that were instituted in the suburbs over the last 70 years, and they’re trying to force people in the city to abide by them, always with the automobile as the main priority, not the pedestrian. We’re seeing it slowly change, and there are a few young developers in Atlanta that have put out some amazing projects of revitalized buildings.”

On the hotel front, Atlanta anticipates a groundswell of 10,000 rooms in the coming years — most of them in the 4- and 5-star segments. With 18 scheduled launches bringing 2,789 new rooms, 2021 will be a banner year; and 2022 will continue the trend with 16 debuts and 3,817 rooms. Five properties with 963 rooms are in the pipeline for 2023, followed by nine hotels with 2,497 keys in 2024 and beyond. Marriott’s Element brand boasts four ongoing projects that will add 626 rooms to the city. Other debuts will include Dream Atlanta Buckhead (2022), Hyatt Centric Buckhead (2022) and Thompson Buckhead (late 2021). Watch for a late summer opening of Epicurean Atlanta, a culinaryfocused hotel featuring conference facilities, a theater kitchen and sky terrace. The hotel will occupy one of three towers at the sparkling new 1105 West Peachtree office and condo redevelopment.

SCENIC DRIVES Travel just 90 minutes northeast of Atlanta and you’ll reach the scenic Southern Appalachian Mountains.

For the best views, take the Russell-Brasstown Scenic Byway, a 41-mile loop inside the Chattahoochee National Forest. You’ll pass through a section of the Appalachian Trail, which starts in Georgia and offers lots of opportunities for hikes to view waterfalls. The twin waterfalls of Anna Ruby Falls are a highlight. Make a stop at Brasstown Bald, on top of Georgia’s highest mountain.

A 360-degree observation deck at the visitors center offers magnificent views of the surrounding mountains.

You’ll think you’re in Bavaria when you pass through Helen, Georgia’s replica of an Alpine village.

Start the 55-mile loop of the Meriwether-Pike Scenic Byway in Warm Springs, Georgia, a little more than an hour south of Atlanta. Begin with a tour of the Little White House, a retreat for President Franklin Delano Roosevelt, who traveled there looking for relief for his polio-stricken legs in the warm natural spring waters. The tour continues to Gay, where you can see a large gristmill at Jones Mill, located in what was once a thriving farm community. Another highlight: the 391foot Red Oak Creek Covered Bridge in Woodbury.

In Good Taste: Artist’s rendering of Epicurean Atlanta PHOTO: © EPICUREAN ATLANTA

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MICE | İSTANBUL

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History and Hospitality İstanbul draws meeting goers from around the globe. BY RICHARD NEWTON

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n the year 381, when a global council of Christian bishops convened, there was only one logical place for them to meet. From all corners of the Christian world they converged on Constantinople (now İstanbul) in what could be regarded as one of the world’s first MICE events.

For millennia, this city represented the geographical center of the human world. Situated on both banks of the Bosporus, the channel that links the Black Sea to the Mediterranean, the city straddles the AS YOU WOULD EXPECT OF A continental divide MAJOR INTERNATIONAL CITY, between Europe and Asia and stands as a İSTANBUL IS WELL-SERVED BY crucial staging post HIGH-END INTERNATIONAL between Northern HOTEL CHAINS, MANY CATERand Eastern Europe and all points south.

ING TO THE MICE SECTOR. Through the rise and fall of empires, through the shift from Christianity to Islam and through a change of name, İstanbul’s strategic importance remained constant. With the advent of the modern MICE sector, the city instantly established itself as a major destination. İstanbul’s claim to be the crossroads of the world was reaffirmed with the October 2018 Cultural Crossroads: opening of the new Istanbul International Aya Lounge at Four Airport, 21 miles northwest of downtown. With Seasons Istanbul at an anticipated annual capacity of 200 million Sultanahmet (top), Topkapi Palace passengers by 2028, it would be one of the interior mosaicworld’s busiest aviation hubs. tiled walls (bottom İstanbul boasts a wealth of state-of-the-art left) and Medusa head in the Basilica MICE venues. By far the largest is CNR EXPO, Cistern (bottom close to the old Atatürk International Airport right) (closed in 2019 and now serving general aviaPHOTOS: © FOUR tion and cargo). This large facility, with eight SEASONS ISTANBUL AT SULTANAHMET, exhibition halls totaling more than 1.6 million © SJANKAUSKAS | DREAMSTIME.COM, square feet, will continue to benefit from the © SERGII FIGURNYI | DREAMSTIME.COM Metro and other transport links originally established to serve the old airport. Three additional halls in the complex are operated by World Trade Center Istanbul.

Downtown, the seven-story Istanbul Congress Center, or ICC, situated a short walk from the central Taksim Square, offers 115 fully equipped meeting rooms; nine meeting halls with capacity of up to 1,300; and an auditorium that can seat 3,705 people.

Next door to the ICC, Lütfi Kırdar International Convention and Exhibition Center, known as ICEC, includes 45 versatile meeting rooms; a 2,000-seat auditorium; and magnificent views from its hillside location down to the Bosporus.

The Haliç Congress Center is picturesquely located beside the Golden Horn, the estuary dividing the European side of İstanbul in two.

Although slightly off the beaten path with regard to tram and Metro links, visitors can easily reach the center by bus or taxi and, uniquely among the major venues, also by ferry (the adjacent Sütlüce ferry stop is part of the city’s busy ferry network).

The center comprises several buildings, each boasting auditoriums and meeting rooms. The Erguvan Restaurant, overlooking the water, can accommodate up to 200 guests.

As you would expect of a major international city, İstanbul is well-served by high-end international hotel chains, many catering to the MICE sector. The Grand Hyatt Istanbul, located downtown close to Taksim Square, offers 21,000 square feet of flexible meeting and event space. The nearby Ritz-Carlton features similarly flexible event space (with panoramic views of the Bosporus) and provides a Technology Butler to ensure everything runs smoothly.

The city boasts two Four Seasons hotels. The one in the historic Sultanahmet district proves an ideal incentive base for visits to such iconic attractions as the Topkapi Palace and the Hagia Sophia, while the other, occupying a larger site on the Bosporus shore, has a range of halls and rooms for meetings and events. From the hotel’s waterside terrace you can watch the comings and goings on the busy waterway — a reminder İstanbul has always been, and continues to be, one of the world’s great meeting places.

UNIQUE VENUES On the surface and beneath, the Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans all left their mark on İstanbul. The great Byzantine cathedral, Hagia Sophia, proves the ultimate example.

Originally built in the sixth century, it was turned into a mosque in the 15th century, converted into a museum in 1935 and again designated as a mosque in 2020. In the shadow of this great building sits one of the city’s more unusual venues, a 16th-century bathhouse, the Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamami. Small groups can enjoy bath and massage offers followed by a meal in the atmospheric courtyard restaurant (please note the bathhouse itself is segregated into male and female sections). ayasofyahamami.com The Sait Halim Paşa Mansion, an ornate Ottoman palace on the European waterside of the Bosporus, offers a prestigious venue for weddings and corporate events. With 13 function areas, the mansion can accommodate small groups or cocktail parties of up to 1,600 guests. saithalimpasa.com Among İstanbul’s great subterranean attractions are its Byzantine cisterns — underground reservoirs — dating back to the fourth century. The Basilica Cistern is the largest and most famous, a must-see visitor attraction. The second-biggest, now known as the 1001 Direk Cistern, has been drained of water, subtly modernized and transformed into a characterful venue capable of hosting up to 3,000 people. yerebatansarnici.com icvb.org.tr/venue/yerebatan-cistern

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9–5 | VIENNA

Grande Dame Venture out in Vienna, a city of opulence and grace.

BY ANGELIQUE PLATAS

Artistic Ambience: Beautiful interior of the café inside Kunsthistorisches Museum PHOTO: © RADIOKAFKA | DREAMSTIME.COM

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rewing long and deep at its center before radiating out to the rest of Europe, Vienna boasts an illustrious history and lasting intellectual impact. The Austrian capital dates back to Celtic and Roman rule, the latter inhabitants using the center city as a military hub among many other employments.

Situated on either side of the Danube River, the city’s well-positioned location allowed for trade to prosper, quickly followed by Baroque masterpieces of architecture and culture replacing the city’s humble medieval beginnings. The city’s dense center began to expand and elevate its own societal position. Dividing walls and small houses came down while palaces, parliament buildings and centers for the arts went up — along with Vienna’s population. A bustling, grand city emerged with a whole new genre of music in tow.

While certainly shaped by imperial history, industry and location,

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Vienna has its people to thank for its unwavering reputation as an artistic hub.

The city’s immense cultural contribution to all of Europe can easily be pinned to its musical past and players. Composers and musicians from all over Austria and Germany found themselves in Vienna playing, teaching and inspiring the masses. Even the least musically inclined individuals may know Viennese residents and masters such as Joseph Haydn, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Ludwig van Beethoven, Franz Schubert, Johannes Brahms, Johann Strauss I and II, as well as Gustav Mahler and many others — while not all originally having hailed from Vienna or even Austria, all found their way to the city for music.

Decades turned into near centuries of brilliant composers, musicians and masters making their way to Vienna, adding to the Viennese musical tradition spanning the late 1700s to well into the 1900s. With music drawing so many to Vienna’s cultural center, the city’s landscape adapted quickly to keep up and provides a stunning peek into the past to this day.

When in Vienna, one can’t help but think of music and culture — the city overflows with them. Reveling in the city’s grand allure, it’s easy to find yourself in a different corner café each day — as one should — channeling the minds and moods of historic masters who once roamed the streets and took social shelter in the same locales many business travelers visit today. A must for any traveler in the area: a power breakfast or strategic lunch meeting at a café, with an obligatory tourist stop or two around the city to entertain.

Indulgence: A rich dessert and coffee served at the famous Café Landtmann (top), Vienna cakes at Café Landtmann (middle), and desserts at Café Sacher (bottom) PHOTOS: © AARON FRUTMAN | DREAMSTIME .COM, © SUSE SCHULZ | DREAMSTIME.COM, © EVGENIY FESENKO | DREAMSTIME.COM

In Austria a 38- to 40-hour work week is standard, but family dinner remains essential — meaning business ventures usually wrap up around 5 p.m. Restaurant operating hours tell another story, many opening 11 a.m.–2 p.m. for late breakfast and early lunch to then reopen for dinner 6–10 p.m., or occasionally as late as 11 p.m..

Coffee houses and cafés in Vienna are a way of life. Once a social hub for intellectuals, many of the city’s cafés date back to the 19th century, and the tradition remains the same — cafés are the place to be. The oldest café, dating back to the late 1600s — once a medieval bathhouse and later a venue for performances by both Mozart and Beethoven — Café Frauenhuber should be an absolute must on your list.

Another great meeting space, Café Landtmann dates back to the 1800s and adapted to the times quite well, offering takeaways and converted indoor-outdoor dining space for guests to grab-and-go and see the sights or linger and enjoy the city view. Make your way through the city’s iconic coffee houses, paying homage to the greats and stunning city landscape around you, from Café Prückel and Fenster Café to Café Diglas near St. Stephen’s Cathedral.

Should you need a bit more space, time and ambience, make your way to the water and enjoy an all-day menu at Café & Restaurant Motto am Fluss, closing at 11 p.m.

If you’re lucky enough to get a reservation for dinner, check out Wratschko Gastwirtschaft — if for no other reason than the establishment was made famous by Anthony Bourdain’s visit. This stop offers eclectic Austrian cuisine and a laid-back atmosphere, but for something a bit more impressive, anything in Vienna’s Hotel Sacher should do the trick. Enjoy coffee and pastries in an elevated diner scene at Sacher Eck Vienna, or book an impressive reservation at the hotel’s equally opulent Restaurant Rote Bar or Restaurant Grüne Bar, offering Viennese specialties and creative innovations, respectively. If you’ve gotten your client this far, there’s always a chance for a nightcap at Blaue Bar. Shrouded in rich blue hues and dripping in opulence, this space offers a swanky step back in time. For something slightly tongue-and-cheek and casual, venture back out into the city and find a street-side table at Pfiff & Co, an American-style bar offering beer and light bites.

Venturing on foot through Vienna exposes any visitor or local to an impromptu walking tour, passing historic buildings and iconic music halls. The city winds and opens up into different cultural corners, and it can often feel like groupings of bygone neighborhoods have been layered upon each other. While opulence and grandeur is an architectural theme, the charming proximity offers a more friendly feel than many cities allow.

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AFTER 5 | WASHINGTON, D.C.

City on the Water D.C.’s newest riverfront district comes to life at night. BY KATHERINE RODEGHIER

Night Lights: The Wharf viewed from the water PHOTO: © AVMEDVED | DREAMSTIME.COM

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he single largest development in the history of the capital, The District Wharf hummed with activity when its first phase opened in October 2017. Stretching for one mile along the waterfront in once-downtrodden southwest D.C., the $2.5billion, mixed-use project brings stunning water views, live music, dozens of new restaurants, hotels and residences together in one location.

Although temporarily halted during the pandemic, once restrictions are lifted, live music will again make The Wharf an important nightlife district, with three new performance stages. The Foo Fighters launched The Anthem, a 6,000-capacity concert hall. Pearl Street Warehouse patrons are never more than 25 feet from the stage where rock, country, folk, soul and blues acts perform. Union Stage came along at the end of December 2017 with a 450-capacity music venue. Adding to the entertainment mix is nearby Mead Center, the second-largest performing arts space after the Kennedy Center. Its Arena Stage specializes in American theater.

A lively bar scene adds to the energy level in The Wharf ’s restaurants and hotels. The Spanish seafood restaurant Del Mar, temporarily closed, features a classic cocktail program with Spanish influences and offers

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outdoor seating spaces. Garage-style doors raise onto the waterfront promenade at The Brighton, an English-style gastropub. Hank’s Oyster Bar on The Wharf (with locations also in Dupont Circle and Old Town Alexandria) is open for distanced indoor dining and outdoor dining on two covered and heated patios with views of the waterfront.

The InterContinental Washington D.C. – The Wharf, one of three hotels in the development, joined Mandarin Oriental, Washington D.C., which helped kick-start the redevelopment of southwest D.C. when it opened in 2004. Its Empress Lounge — closed during D.C.’s pause in indoor dining — has long served as a gathering place for Washington power brokers.

While The Wharf welcomes the LGBTQ+ community — hosting the first National Coming Out Day at The Wharf in October 2020 — it’s too soon to tell whether it will match the popularity of the capital’s lively gayfriendly districts such as Adams Morgan, home of the Duplex Diner and sports bars Pitchers and A League of Her Own; Dupont Circle, where JR.’s does business; and the U Street Corridor, with Nellie’s Sports Bar and The Dirty Goose, offering rooftop seating.

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NEIGHBORHOODS | MÁLAGA

Mediterranean Magic Explore the coastal charms of Málaga’s neighborhoods. BY KATIE SKRZEK

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ituated on Spain’s scenic coastline, Málaga remains a perennial favorite for tourists. The city is located in Spain’s Andalusia region. Its beaches, historical attractions and cultural offerings draw visitors. On your next visit, explore downtown’s El Centro, La Merced and La Malagueta neighborhoods.

El Centro, Málaga’s Old Town and a popular spot for locals and tourists, is home to many of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. Tour the Alcazaba, a Moorish fortress located in the heart of Old Town.

Constructed in the eighth century, the citadel boasts stunning outer gardens.

Located nearby, the Cathedral of Málaga provides an example of Renaissance architecture.

Just north of Old Town’s center, discover the trendy La Merced neighborhood. The lively area features tapas restaurants, an outdoor market, bars and nightclubs.

Málaga is the birthplace of Pablo Picasso. Learn more about the famous artist at the Picasso Museum Málaga at La Merced. The museum features 285 works donated by the artist’s family. Open daily, the museum hours vary seasonally; however, it is closed to the public temporarily during the pandemic.

A trip to Málaga isn’t complete without spending time at the beach. The beach at La Malagueta is a favorite for locals and tourists. While here, sample the traditional dish of espetos (grilled fish, typically sardines) from a chiringuito (beachfront bar). Keep in mind, this popular beach attracts crowds during the summer months. After the beach, walk to the nearby bullfighting ring. Plaza de Toros de La Malagueta houses a museum where visitors can learn more about the historic structure and sport.

The area offers numerous hotels; consider one of these luxury properties for your stay. The newly renovated AC Hotel by Marriott Málaga Palacio, a modern property located next to Málaga Park, makes a great place to call home during your visit. Enjoy views of the city from the hotel’s rooftop bar and restaurant. Due to reopen this month, Palacio Solecio, a Small Luxury Hotel of the World, is housed in an 18th-century palace near La Merced. With its central location on Calle Granada, the property is ideal for walking to nearby museums and the beach. For even closer access to the beach, consider Gran Hotel Miramar. The 5-star beachfront hotel boasts a spa, gym, several indoor and outdoor pools, three restaurants and two bars.

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Culture and Cuisine: Roman Theater and Alcazaba Citadel (above), and fish grilling at La Malagueta PHOTOS: © LAMBERTO JESUS LUQUE PEREZ | DREAMSTIME .COM., © TJEERD KRUSE | DREAMSTIME.COM

FRIENDS & FAMILY | SEOUL

Where the Action Is Seoul sizzles with food, fashion, palaces and pageantry. BY GREGORY D. MCCLUNEY

Korean Cool: (Left to right) Ssamziegil traditional cultural and shopping complex in Insa-dong, cable car to N Seoul Tower, and COEX mall Starfield Library in Gangnam PHOTOS: © SANGA PARK | DREAMSTIME .COM, © SEBASTIAN CZAPNIK | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SANGA PARK | DREAMSTIME.COM

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ike the frenetic kitchen of a sold-out Korean restaurant, Seoul is hot, sizzling, a 24/7 mass of energy. Yet few travelers have the bustling South Korean capital of 25 million people at the top of their bucket list of destinations.

Seoul may not possess the panache of Paris, the royal history of London or the flair of New York City. What it does offer is thousands of years of history, mega-shopping for the latest fashions, a vibrant food scene particular to Korean customs and tastes, five palaces, pageantry, casinos, clubs and exciting attractions to please business visitors or entice families. Add to this a favorable exchange rate ($1 equals 1,103 won) and lots of English-speaking young people you won’t find in most other Asian countries.

When you’ve settled in your hotel (there’s one to fit every budget) and rested from the major time change, you’ll find subways and taxis

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provide the best way to see the city. Purchase a T-money card for the subway and enjoy the good maps and English signage at most stops.

Taxi drivers rarely speak English but can translate using smartphones (keep the business cards provided by your hotel). Taxis are reasonable, clean and abundant. Unless you read or speak Korean, the bus system will prove an unnecessary challenge.

The Han River divides Seoul into two major sections: north (Gangbuk) and south (Gangnam). The northerly, older section houses many tourist sites while the south, the new Seoul, is more affluent and the place to be seen with the latest fashions and technology.

Each section further divides into many distinct neighborhoods.

You’ll most likely navigate to a destination by finding these neighborhoods, such as the popular tourist area of Insa-dong or the palace area of Gyeongbokgung. Shopping exists in almost every neighborhood,

with many retailers specializing in crafts, high fashion, sports clothing and electronics. You’ll find only two actual enclosed malls, with multiple levels and international brands.

Get your bearings with a visit to the N Seoul Tower, the highest point in the city. Take a cable car and then a fast elevator to the top for a 360-degree view of the city. At sunset you get a different view on a Han River cruise, no advance reservations necessary.

After cruising the city, drop into one of the many “meat houses,” where you cook your own entrée over a flaming grill built into the middle of each table while you socialize with other guests. Servers bring a host of side items to accompany your freshly grilled meats. It’s all for fun, and you may make some new Korean friends during the evening.

For those interested, a daytrip to the DMZ border with North Korea can prove either fascinating or scary. One million troops stand guard on the most heavily fortified border in the world. Either full-day or half-day tours are available, including travel time, and may not be ideal for all family groups, although many do make the trip. Visitors witness awesome military pageantry and get a glimpse of what it means to live in a divided country.

You can spend almost a full day in Korea’s premier museum, the National, the sixthlargest in the world. Its three floors display thousands of artifacts, archaeological objects, an entire floor of fine arts featuring more than 800 works and yet another strictly for Asian art.

Few visitors to Seoul pass up a visit to the royal palace complex of Gyeongbokgung, an easy subway ride from almost any hotel. Situated in the heart of the city, it includes a performing arts center, throne room, meditation pond and more historic buildings, including the National Folk Museum.

LODGING

DINING

InterContinental Grand Seoul Parnas Known for its central location, spacious rooms and exceptional service for business travelers, this newly renovated hotel welcomes groups and families as well. Enjoy the spa, pool, lounge and firstclass restaurants, including a deli.

Balwoo Gongyang A unique experience awaits at this superb restaurant (reserve ahead) operated by monks from Seoul’s main Buddhist temple.

The menu features creative continental and temple cuisine, but the vegetarian option stands out. Great for kids.

521 Teheran-ro, Gangnam $$$$

Temple Stay Information Integration Center, 56 Ujeongguk-ro, Jongno-gu $$

Park Hyatt Seoul Offering contemporary luxury with fantastic views and a great location near COEX mall, the hotel features a spa, pool and an excellent restaurant with a home-style Italian menu.

606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam $$$ The Shilla Seoul For a slightly more Korean hotel experience, The Shilla offers luxury and superb service among Korean art and décor. International travelers return to enjoy the 23 private acres, Michelin-starred restaurant and private shopping arcade.

249 Dongho-ro, Jung-gu $$$

Doore Dine like royalty in a 1900s hanok wooden building, a showcase for Korean art. True Imperial cuisine comes on fixed or à la carte menus.

5-24 Insadong 4-gil, Jongno-gu $$ Samcheonggak Travel up the hill to the presidential Blue House for a Korean take on international fine dining, at half the cost of Europe or New York, in beautiful rooms with a view. Choose the continental fixed menu.

3 Daesagwan-ro, Seongbuk-gu $$$$

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INFO TO GO Because of the worldwide reach of the South Korean business network, the city’s Incheon Airport is a model of efficiency and design. Carriers offer direct flights and connections to most of the world’s capitals and beyond. Service to and from other Asian countries is frequent and convenient. Some routes within Asia utilize Gimpo (GMP), a second Seoul airport. The big three U.S. carriers offer service with several non-stops.

Once on the ground, passage through customs and immigration is quick and efficient. Reach the city center in less than an hour by rail, express airport bus or taxi. Remember, you need not tip in Korea. You can exchange currency for the local won at ATMs in banks and some retail spots. Major international credit cards are widely accepted. For the best weather, visit in the fall or spring.

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As you’ll be doing a lot of walking in the city and crossing the river several times a day, take a break at one of the Han River’s bridge cafés. Relax and order a cool iced drink or green tea and plan your next stop while the city buzzes around you, always in high gear.

For visitors who want a hands-on Korean experience, a visit to Korea House near Myeong-dong offers a cultural arts experience as well as a restaurant. With demonstrations on making kimchi, hanji (paper craft) and traditional dance, each class lasts about two hours.

In the evening some of Korea’s top performers take over with traditional dance and music performances, with English subtitles.

After dinner, head to Itaewon to experience a mix of Seoul’s nightlife. Here a combination of tourists, U.S. military, businesspeople and local Korean students and lovers come to see and be seen. On weekends, hot clubs like Soap Seoul have folks spilling out of the front doors and into the street. For LGBTQ+ visitors, the most popular bars, dance clubs and karaoke

bars may be found in both Itaewon and Jongno. The fun continues in the Hongdae (university) neighborhood, where students gather to dance and sing in private karaoke rooms.

In this Korean city, there’s always more action just around the corner.

Hands-On: Kimchi-making demonstration (top), and Korean hanji paper craft (bottom) PHOTOS: © THITAREE MAHAWONG | DREAMSTIME.COM, © AMY HARRIS | DREAMSTIME.COM

TOURS | CAYMAN ISLANDS

Island Spirit The warmth of the Caymans makes visitors feel right at home. BY EUGENIA LAZARIS

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hen the Cayman Islands reopens to global tourism after the restrictions of the COVID-19 pandemic, it will be waiting with open arms. Visitors will once again be able to experience what makes the Caymans a world-class destination — pristine beaches, stunning scenery, magnificent wildlife and its very own brand of kindness: Caymankind.

Caymankind is all about the beauty, culture and heart of the islands. From the welcoming hospitality and the laid-back lifestyle to the incredible landscape and wildlife, the Caymans offers a piece of true Caribbean paradise.

Boasting more than 1.7 million visitors in 2019, the Caymans is clearly wellequipped to show guests a good time. To get a true feel for the island vibe, head to the big island of Grand Cayman where iguanas roam free, waves crash gently on sandy white beaches and smiling locals happily show off the home they love.

In 2016, Troy Leacock, a 10thgeneration Caymanian, started Crazy Crab because he wanted to offer a premium tour experience on an intimate level that can turn strangers into friends. This family-run business offers small-boat, chartered tours where guests choose their destinations and tour lengths. This relaxed flexibility epitomizes the easy-going style of the Caymans.

The most popular attraction on the island is Stingray City. Located on a sand bar in the island’s North Sound, this attraction consists of a waist-deep sandbar home to a population of southern stingrays. These gentle giants will swim right up to you and eat squid out of your hands. Crazy Crab’s guides help guests navigate the experience, making sure everyone explores at their comfort level. The rays are so friendly they will even give lucky visitors a stingray “kiss,” proving it’s not just the local humans who understand Caymankind.

Crazy Crab also helps visitors experience the diverse culinary culture, showcasing locally grown produce and fresh-caught seafood. A seaside meal is the perfect way to enjoy a beautiful sunset before you segue into a nighttime swim in Bioluminescent Bay. One of only a handful of locations in the world where this natural phenomenon occurs, Bioluminescent Bay is home to microscopic plankton that flash in brilliant shades of bright iridescent blue when disturbed by movement in the water.

On an intimate tour of Grand Cayman, each visitor feels welcomed into the island’s heart. It’s no wonder visitors return year after year to a paradise that, thanks to the Caymankind spirit, makes them feel like they are coming home.

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In the Swim: Family on a Crazy Crab tour interacting with a stingray in the shallow waters at Stingray City (above), and Crazy Crab boat (left) PHOTOS: © CRAZY CRAB

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BUCKET LIST | NAPA VALLEY WINE TOURS

Divine Wine

Swirl and sip Napa’s world-class expressions while tasting the wine country lifestyle. BY KELLY MAGYARICS Vineyard Views: (Left to right) Cuvaison Tasting Room table on patio, Vintner’s Collective outdoor seating and private tasting with charcuterie, and Trefethen Family Vineyards Historic Winery and private table in the garden PHOTOS: © CUVAISON WINERY, © VINTNER’S COLLECTIVE, © TREFETHEN FAMILY VINEYARDS

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ith its enviable Mediterranean climate, warm hospitality and unique take on cuisine that melds California ingredients and technique with a smattering of global influences, it’s easy to see why Napa Valley resides at the top of food and wine lovers’ bucket lists. Napa’s wine industry dates back to 1861 when Charles Krug launched the first commercial winery, but one singular event in 1976 really put the area’s wines on the map. That was the year of the blind tasting dubbed The Judgment of Paris, when locally produced Chateau Montelena Chardonnay and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon beat out all the best white Burgundies and red Bordeaux.

Today those two grape varieties still reign, but the region is also renowned for wines made with Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Zin-

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fandel and Pinot Noir, not to mention its sparkling wines that pay homage to the traditional method of production (like Champagne) with a signature fruitiness that can only come from all that sunshine. Though deciding what destinations to hit during a wine tasting itinerary of Napa Valley can be as overwhelming as deciding which styles to sip at the tasting bar or bistro, you really can’t go wrong.

No matter if it’s your first foray to the region or your fifth, the town of Napa proper is a perfect place to center your trip. Long overlooked as merely the industrial center that visitors pass through on the way north to Yountville or St. Helena, Downtown Napa has emerged as California wine country’s “it” spot as of late, boasting more visitors than all of Napa Valley combined. To make it home base for your vineyard pursuits, reserve a room at the luxe and modern Andaz Napa, the chic Archer Hotel Napa or the Blackbird Inn, whose 12 accommodations feature elements of the Arts and Crafts movement.

Book a tasting at Vintner’s Collective, housed in a former saloon and brothel dating back to 1875, to sample 18 family-run wine labels under one roof — most of which don’t have their own tasting rooms. Nearby, The CIA at Copia, an offshoot of the Culinary Institute of America geared toward enthusiasts, offers cooking and wine pairing classes, a kitchen shop and wine-focused garden-to-fork restaurant; however, at press time it is closed temporarily. Next door, Oxbow Public Market features gourmet artisans and purveyors; dining options include flights and snacks at CRU Tasting Lounge, bottles and fromage to go at Oxbow Cheese & Wine Merchant, and a brewery and distillery if you need a break from

the grape. And after a day of wine tasting, dine at nearby Compline, a wine bar, restaurant and wine merchant named for the hour that signaled the end of the workday for European monks. It showcases eclectic varietals, cool producers and fun small plates.

Driving around Napa Valley to embark on a wine tour is easy: Route 29 runs north and south through the region, dotted with wineries on both sides. The entire area has no shortage of gorgeous terraces and patios that offer sweeping views of the vineyards, and a tasting or flight alfresco is at once safe, socially distant and soul-fulfilling. Just north of Napa, Trefethen Family Vineyards offers four themed flights in its courtyard, a reserve tasting on the villa deck or a five-bite-and-sip wine and culinary experience at a private table in the garden.

Cakebread Cellars, known for its zesty Sauvignon Blanc, offers several tastings including a seated food and wine pairing that takes place in Dolores Cakebread’s organic vegetable garden. And if you have aspirations of being a master blender, don’t miss My Virtú at nearby St. Supéry Estate Vineyards & Winery, where you’ll compare and contrast Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon before creating

your perfect blend to take home. Continue north to St. Helena and you’ll happen upon Newton Vineyard, referred to as “Napa Valley’s Secret Garden” for its mountainside location featuring abundant roses and English gardens. Sadly, the 2020 Glass Fire swept through the property and destroyed Newton’s winery and tasting room on Spring Mountain. Newton plans to rebuild over the next few years. In the meantime, it is working to open a Downtown Napa tasting experience in the spring.

Another day, head southwest from town to Carneros, the area that straddles Napa and Sonoma whose cooler climate lends elegance and restraint to wines made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Cuvaison Winery does a seated estate tasting on its modern patio of five of its wines crafted with fruit from the Los Carneros and Mount Veeder appellations (currently only by advance reservation). And if you love bubbly, carve out a few hours to spend on the massive patio at the château-like Domaine Carneros, lingering over a guided tasting flight of its Brut, Blanc de Blanc, Blanc de Noir and Rosé, paired with the perfect nibbles of potato chips and caviar, of course.

INFO TO GO Napa Valley lies 70 miles from San Francisco International Airport, but the region is more easily accessed by flying into Oakland International Airport, 63 miles away; major carriers service both. Other options include Sacramento International Airport, 75 miles away; San José International Airport; or Sonoma County Airport. The closest options for private or chartered flights are Napa County Airport, 10 miles away, or Buchanan Field Airport, 40 miles away. After arriving by air, you’ll most likely want to rent a car for the duration of your trip so you’ll be able to easily access wineries, restaurants and shopping. Other ground transportation options include Uber or Lyft, and shuttles run to downtown Napa from SFO or OAK through Evans Airport Shuttle. Private transportation options to and around Napa include limos and shuttle buses through operators like Napa Valley Wine Country Tours, Napa Shuttle & Limo and Pure Luxury Transportation.

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KICKING BACK | BORDEAUX

Legendary Land Explore the historic châteaux and fine wines of Bordeaux.

BY KATIE MCELVEEN

Span of Time: Pont de Pierre (above), and (opposite page, left to right) Gross Cloche; and the interior of La Cité du Vin, a museum presenting the history of wine and also wine bottles PHOTOS: © LEONID ANDRONOV | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ANIBAL TREJO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SUSE SCHULZ | DREAMSTIME .COM

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I

t’s been more than 20 years since the city of Bordeaux shook off centuries of neglect and scrubbed the soot from its buildings, cleared the crumbling warehouses from its riverfront and reconfigured streets to make them more pedestrian-friendly.

The results have been startling. Hidden for decades behind a dilapidated wharf, the Garonne River sparkles beyond a sweeping promenade that runs from the lively Chartrons district, where outdoor cafés give way to elegant antique shops along Rue Notre Dame, to Pont de Pierre, the graceful 19th-century bridge commissioned by Napoleon. There are parks, gardens, sculptures and fountains, too, most notably Le Miroir d’Eau, a massive black granite reflecting pool where splashing about has become a warm-weather ritual.

Step away from the river and you’ll find centuries-old churches with

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soaring spires; the hefty towers of medieval Gross Cloche; and the 18thcentury Neoclassical Grand Théatre, rimmed with a dozen sculptures of Greek and Roman gods. In all, more than 350 structures set within UNESCO’s largest urban complex are listed as historic monuments.

Then there’s the wine. Bordeaux’s dominance in the production and distribution of wine has its roots in the discovery, in the first century, of a grape variety that could withstand cold winters. It flourished in Bordeaux and — voilà — the modern wine industry was born. Well, not exactly. Centuries of refining methods of growing, harvesting, blending, aging and distributing wine came into play as well, but the end of the story remains the same: Bordeaux’s wines rate among the best in the world.

Oenophiles interested in learning even more about wine now have a place to do it: La Cité du Vin, opened in 2016 and the world’s largest museum devoted to wine (temporarily closed during the pandemic).

Set within a massive golden carafe overlooking the river, the museum’s 10 levels of interactive exhibits detail the history, lore, tradition and art of wine. And it’s not just intellectual: Admission includes a trip to the Belvedère, the museum’s eighth-floor, glass-walled aerie, where free flights of wine from around the world are poured by friendly staffers eager to help visitors taste the difference between, say, Cabernet Sauvi-

LODGING

DINING

Hôtel de Pavie This former convent is now an elegant, 17-room Relais & Châteaux hotel with a 2-Michelin-starred restaurant. Guests can stay in town or at the nearby vineyard inn.

Garopapilles Love surprises? You’ll adore this tiny, unpretentious Michelinstarred restaurant which serves a single menu each evening. The wine list is filled with treasures, but go for the always-inspired pairings.

5 Place du Clocher, Saint-Émilion $$$$

62 Rue Abbé de l’Épée, Bordeaux $$$$$

Hôtel le Palais Gallien Located in a 19th-century private home just steps from an ancient amphitheater, this recently opened hotel features bold interiors and a lovely courtyard with an outdoor pool.

La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez Star chef Pierre Gagnaire oversees the kitchen at the 2-Michelin-starred La Grande Maison, set within a 19thcentury manse owned by wine magnate Bernard Magrez.

144 Rue Abbé de l’Épée, Bordeaux $$$$

10 Rue Labottière, Bordeaux $$$$$

InterContinental Bordeaux – Le Grand Hôtel It’s all about drama at this 130-room property, from the hip rooftop bar and flowerfilled courtyard to the blackgranite spa pool surrounded by two-story red pillars.

Racines Chef Daniel Gallacher may be self-taught, but his stylish, well-balanced dishes reflect his time in the kitchen with Alain Ducasse. Select from an extensive collection of wines by the glass, too.

2-5 Place de la Comédie, Bordeaux $$$

59 Rue Georges Bonnac, Bordeaux $$$

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Fertile Acres: Vineyards of Saint-Émilion PHOTO: © FREEPROD | DREAMSTIME.COM

INFO TO GO Located about six miles from the city, Bordeaux-Mérignac Airport offers a full schedule of domestic and international flights. In addition to taxis and city buses, a shuttle runs directly to the train station. Highspeed train service from Paris’ Montparnasse station takes just a little more than two hours; traditional trains make the trip in about 3.5.

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gnons from various wine-producing regions around the globe.

For a city surrounded by vineyards that produce some of the most prestigious wines in the world, Bordeaux’s wine bars are refreshingly attitude-free. Set along a cobbled street in the lively Saint-Pierre neighborhood, Vins Urbains offers more than 250 varieties; you can buy a wonderful glass of wine for as little as €4 (about $4.85). Owners Jan and Christelle Bussiere are passionate about their vast collections and delighted to create impromptu flights. At The Wine Bar, tucked into Le Boutique Hôtel, sommelier Mike Germon holds blind tastings each evening at 5 p.m.; the €35 (about $43) price includes cheese and charcuterie. Bordeaux’s top wines, called “classified growths,” are rarely available by the glass; Bordeaux Wine Gallery is an exception, offering several classified wines for tasting. The system isn’t romantic — guests must insert a credit card into a sealed system which then dispenses the wine into the glass — but it provides a rare opportunity to try some of the region’s most legendary wines.

Even the most austere Bordeaux wines seem less intimidating within the relaxed, art-filled setting of the Bar à Vin, a tasting room run by the Bordeaux Wine Council. Take your pick of more than 30 wines by the glass, and don’t be afraid to ask for advice: Bar à Vin’s English-speaking staff is patient and well-informed. Tasters looking to deepen their knowledge can even enroll in an on-site wine school.

Once you’ve found your favorites, head around the corner to L’Intendant, a wine shop that stocks only the wines of Bordeaux — including the less expensive second and third wines of esteemed châteaux — among its 15,000 or so bottles. Ascending the steep spiral staircase that dominates the shop’s interior tests both pocketbooks and legs: With every turn, prices rise significantly.

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Wineries in locales such as Napa, Sonoma and Chile have always welcomed visitors, but that hasn’t always been the case in Bordeaux.

Fortunately, that tradition is changing, and in recent years many of the region’s historic estates opened their doors and cellars to guests.

One, Château Beychevelle, has produced Cabernet-based wine in the Médoc village of Saint-Julien since 1565. At the imposing château filled with antiques and surrounded by formal gardens, a recent renovation added a strikingly contemporary cellar. In addition to private lunches and dinners and custom tastings, the château offers 12 guestrooms for overnight stays.

Château La Dominique, a Saint-Émilion-area château, offers innovative programs like blind tastings and an introductory tour for children.

The 17th-century estate’s renowned Jean Nouvelle-designed restaurant features a second-story terrace composed of smooth, garnet-colored glass pebbles.

Located about 45 minutes northeast of Bordeaux, Saint-Émilion merits a visit on its own. Named for the Breton monk who settled in the region in the eighth century, the walled village presents a glorious tangle of hilly streets lined with wine shops (the Merlot-based wines crafted here are exceptional), restaurants and historic buildings. Several significant churches remain, including the Collegiate Church with its massive stained-glass windows and soaring Gothic arches. The Monolithic Church, carved from limestone, features a massive bell tower. With that exception, the church, with its quiet hermitage and catacombs, lies completely underground. Grab a glass of wine at one of the bustling outdoor cafés that fill the courtyard surrounding the church, or climb the stairs to Hôtel de Pavie, where a pretty patio overlooks the city’s atmospheric rooftops and, in the distance, acres of neat vineyards.

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Savor the Flavor

HANGZHOU

fine vines

Straight or mixed, enjoy the unique spirit of Svedka vodka. BY EUNICE FRIED

S

vedka is a Swedish vodka whose quality outpaces its price. First made by Guillaume Cuvelier in Lidköping, Sweden, in 1998, it arrived in the United States in 2007 through its American owner, Constellation Brands, and has since become the vodka of choice for many American drinkers. Taken by its winning combination of taste and cost, they made it one of the top-selling vodka brands in the United States.

While Svedka is only 22 years old, Sweden remains one of three countries considered the world’s oldest vodka makers, along with Poland and Russia. Svedka is made of Swedish winter wheat — four pounds needed for every bottle — and distilled five times. Like most vodkas, it is bottled straight as well as in a number of fruit forms. Among them are lemon, cherry, strawberry and peach. Straight Svedka contains 40 percent alcohol, while its flavored variations have 35 percent. And while some brands of vodka cost as much as $40–45 for a 750 ml bottle, Svedka

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

There is a suggestion of sweet mint and an evocation of orange and peach in Finca La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, followed by a relatively full body and excellent balance. Altogether a pleasing, inviting wine.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) is clean, crisp and refreshing, offering a typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear and peach overtones and a gentle reminder of citrus fruits in the mouth. A particularly harmonious wine.

The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) combines keen fruit flavors, herbal notes and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of honey and floral tones.

Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripe fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with citric notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

To Your Taste: Svedka Vodka, Rosé and Strawberry Guava. Try a Tropical Cooler with 2 parts Svedka Strawberry Guava, 2 parts soda and garnish with fresh sliced strawberries.

PHOTOS: © SVEDKA VODKA, © MAKIDOTVN - DREAMSTIME.COM

ICELAND THE NORTH AMERICA ISSUE ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE AND ICE

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

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ranges $15–20.

How best to enjoy Svedka? By itself and in as many additions and variations as your imagination allows.

To understand it in its natural state, begin with a small taste of Svedka straight. Chill a bottle in the freezer for a couple of hours or more. (It won’t freeze; it has too much alcohol to do that.) Pour a small amount in a chilled glass.

Sip, slowly — very slowly — savoring each taste. The purpose is not to get drunk but to consider its flavors and enjoy every drop.

For mixing, the possibilities are virtually endless. Pour equal parts of a flavored Svedka and water or soda in a chilled glass and mix well.

Garnish with citrus peels. Or combine 1 ounce each of Svedka vodka and rosé Svedka; 2 ounces grapefruit juice; and ½ ounce each of vanilla syrup, lemon juice and hibiscus tea. Shake and strain into a Collins glass filled with ice.

Perhaps, best of all, create your own Svedka original. Skål!

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LGBTQ+

Authentic Amsterdam The progressive city retains its allure for LGBTQ+ visitors.

W

ith its legendary reputation as a progressive, liberal city, Amsterdam has long been a favorite destination for LGBTQ+ travelers. And while the pandemic limited access for leisure and business travel alike, the allure of this European metropolis will surely mean a surge in arrivals as the world reopens.

Visitors will find much of the same allure as they return to Amsterdam. The most popular neighborhoods for LGBTQ+ travelers include Amstel, dotted with traditional Dutch pubs called “brown cafés,” and Kerkstraat, a street lined with LGBTQ+-friendly hotels as well as Club Church, among the many nightclubs waiting to announce plans to reopen.

For diverse culinary experiences and LGBTQ+ nightlife, head to Reguliersdwarsstraat, yet another hub.

Visitors to this area can dine at Lunchroom Downtown, toast at the SOHO pub or dance the night away at Club NYX, which — like other venues —also awaits reopening at press time.

LGBTQ+ travelers shouldn’t miss the area around Zeedijk and Warmoesstraat, where the popular café The Queen’s Head hosts lively drag bingo events, and Café �t Mandje features original décor from the city’s first gay and lesbian bar, opened in 1927.

Thomas Carpenter, owner, Huckleberry Travel, a New York City-based travel agency, recommends a variety of other activities for LGBTQ+ visitors. “An LGBTQ+ walking tour through the city, which is arguably the gay capital of Europe, is a great way to learn about the history and culture of the LGBTQ+ community of the city and an opportunity to connect with a local guide who can really give you the insider perspective,” he said, also listing trips to the flower market, bike rides and tulip-time river cruises among his favorite pastimes in the city.

When it comes to accommodations, visitors will find an array of interesting options, ranging from the luxurious Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam, a member of IGLTA, to the all-welcoming Amistad Hotel. “In Amsterdam, it’s not hard to find gay-friendly lodging,” Carpenter said, noting he also recommends houseboat stays.

For details about travel to Amsterdam, the I Amsterdam website features extensive listings and information for LGBTQ+ travelers.

Original: Café ‘t Mandje PHOTO: © ATOSAN | DREAMSTIME.COM

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BY MARK CHESNUT

AIRPORT UPDATE

Inspiring Confidence Pittsburgh’s airports strive to create a safe and welcoming environment. BY MARY MELNICK

P

ittsburgh’s two airports, Allegheny County Airport (AGC) and Pittsburgh International Airport (PIT), work hard to provide a safe and modern environment for travelers.

Since 1931 Allegheny County Airport has advanced modern corporate and recreation travel. To this day it continues to provide convenient access to nearby universities, financial and corporate operations, research facilities and world-renowned medical centers.

The airport houses one of the nation’s premier aviation maintenance schools, air medical transport services, flight training operations and two fixed-based operators.

It also hosts several corporate planes and numerous private aircraft.

AGC Authority has always been dedicated to the health, safety and security of its employees and travelers. While following the new regulations and procedures in place due to COVID-19, it goes even further by implementing the highest safety standards and practices in the airport industry — today and in the future.

Currently preparing for the return of travel, the airport is launching an authority-wide initiative, PIT Safe Travels.

In accordance with the guidelines from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, the initiative improves health and safety measures already in place throughout the facilities. Hoping to increase confidence in air travel, it will enhance protocols that outline best practices for reducing the spread of germs.

Following a new federal mandate, both of Pittsburgh’s major airports currently require travelers to wear masks during TSA check-in and while waiting in the airport. Passengers who refuse to mask up will be denied entry. As of now, the mandate will remain in place until May 11.

Pittsburgh International Airport works to improve the quality of its terminals to best support its travelers. The Terminal Modernization Program, originally announced in September 2017, is a billion-dollar project to create a new, consolidated terminal that

Moving Forward: Artist's rendering of the interior of the Landside Terminal planned for the Terminal Modernization Program at PIT (above), and Allegheny County Airport (left) PHOTOS: © ALLEGHENY COUNTY AIRPORT AUTHORITY

modernizes outdated former hub facilities, better serves passengers, evokes the essence of Pittsburgh and more.

Early site work was set to begin in April 2020 but was delayed due to COVID-19. Since then, the TMP team worked closely with key stakeholders and airlines to re-evaluate the project in light of new public health concerns.

The team hopes to get a move on with early work beginning this month, and it hopes to start building the foundation of the terminal in early June. If all goes well with the timeline, the new terminal will open by 2024.

ALLEGHENY COUNTY AIRPORT & PITTSBURGH INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT flypittsburgh.com

MARCH 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

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MEDICAL TOURISM

Fruitful Journeys Be aware of risks when seeking reproductive treatments abroad. BY DEBRA BOKUR

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PHOTO: © MILKOS | DREAMSTIME.COM

F

or the millions of people who struggle to conceive, the medical travel niche of reproductive tourism remains a top reason to head abroad.

According to a study published by The American Journal of Medicine, fertility treatments rank as one of the top eight reasons travelers seek medical treatment outside of the United States, accounting for roughly 1 million-plus Americans who cross borders in search of reproduction therapies.

The inability to conceive is a surprisingly common condition that affects an estimated 8 to 12 percent of people who actively attempt to become pregnant. That’s where assisted reproductive technologies, including artificial insemination and in vitro fertilization, can be useful options. The price for treatment abroad, including travel expenses, is often a fraction of what the same treatments cost within the United States.

Prospective travelers should, however, keep in mind rules governing fertility treatments vary from country to country and apply directly to travelers, regardless of their country of origin. In some places (though such treatments may be advertised as available), fertility treatments are frowned upon or prohibited by religious tenets, cultural attitudes or legal restrictions. Even where allowed, issues may include the destination’s legal definition of “family,” whether anonymity is guaranteed for donors of sperm and eggs, the length of the allowed in vitro development period for embryos, genetic screening, the maximum storage time for frozen embryos, and the maximum allowed number of embryos that can be transferred and implanted.

Popular destinations abroad for assisted reproductive technologies include Israel, Mexico, Denmark, Barbados, Turkey, India and Iran. Be certain to select a hospital certified to meet the highest standards of training, care and facilities. Respected certification entities include Joint Commission International, the International Organization for Standardization and the European Society of Human Reproduction and Embryology.

Some studies suggest that even though rates of successful IVF-assisted pregnancies are lower when originating in certain countries, including Turkey, the overall costs — even including travel — are so much lower, the risk is perceived as acceptable. As in many countries, the reproduction

THE INABILITY TO CONCEIVE IS A SURPRISINGLY COMMON CONDITION THAT AFFECTS AN ESTIMATED 8 TO 12 PERCENT OF PEOPLE WHO ACTIVELY ATTEMPT TO BECOME PREGNANT. sector of the Turkish medical tourism market is actively supported by policy makers who recognize the financial benefit of a dependably large influx of medical tourists struggling with fertility challenges.

Regardless of the destination, fertility treatments are not without risks.

These range from health complications, infections and pregnancy failure to multiple live births — a statistically common occurrence. When choosing a hospital or clinic, it’s important to be familiar with what emergency facilities are available, the existing screening policies in place for staff health, and the infection rates for hospital-acquired infections, including methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (known familiarly as MRSA) and C. difficile.

PREVIEW

Singapore People stroll along the Skyway at Gardens by the Bay, where the Supertrees come alive with a spectacular display of lights and sounds at night. Learn more when you read Destination One: Singapore in the April/May issue.

PHOTO: © HASLINDA | DREAMSTIME.COM

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