July/August 2020 Global Traveler

globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

July/August 2020

ABU DHABI p. 68 ACCRA p. 62 AMSTERDAM p.70 BANGKOK p. 58 CHARLOTTE p. 54 LAS VEGAS p. 60 NICARAGUA p. 56 SEYCHELLES p.72 SOFIA p. 64

SUNNY SIDE UP

A warm welcome awaits in remarkably resilient San Juan. p. 48

NEWARK,

WELCOME ON BOARD

Terms and conditions apply.

For details please visit turkishairlines.com

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR ®

EDITORIAL Editor In Chief Kimberly Krol kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com Vice President/Digital Director Katie Skrzek katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor Janice Hecht jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor Patricia Vanikiotis patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor Angelique Platas angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Social Media & Editorial Coordinator Mary Melnick mary.melnick@globaltravelerusa.com

ART Art Director Tracey Cullen tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer Christopher P. Ottaunick christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor Vance Piccin

In Good Company: Kimberly Krol enjoying a wine tasting with Richard Evans PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL

Ready for Takeoff

T

here’s a lot to unpack in this letter — and unpacking is something not many of us have done much of lately as COVID-19 kept the world grounded.

There’s no doubt the travel industry changed drastically over the last several months and kept those of us who live to explore at home. The travel industry adapted; destinations, hotels, airlines and more zigged and zagged, cut back, closed and did what needed to be done to keep the world safe. Whether you’re ready to travel now or in the future, the world can still inspire. We’ll see you in the friendly — and cleaner, healthier — skies again soon.

The events of the past several months have done more than just pique our wanderlust further — they’ve forced us to turn a critical eye to our content. Travel unifies the world; it teaches us all to appreciate and learn about different countries, cultures and peoples.

Our message should match. We are committed to continue telling stories that inspire and support diversity, equality and inclusion in the travel industry.

After all, that’s what travel is all about.

The following pages may look just a bit different than before, also, as we debut a brand-new design in this issue. Our art director, Tracey Cullen, spent time during the shutdown working on a beautiful redesign, and I’m excited to finally share it with you.

Some of my favorite aspects of the new look are bigger pictures that draw you in, cleaner fonts that make the words sing and modern layouts that bring the destinations to life.

Where are we off to this month? Bangkok, Las Vegas, Amsterdam, San Juan, Sofia, Nicaragua, Accra, Charlotte, the Seychelles and Abu Dhabi.

I cannot sign off without mentioning my colleague, Richard T. Evans. Quarantine brought many changes, among them Dick’s decision to retire. We will miss his wisdom, his guidance, his stories and his energy on a daily basis. From my first day as a 22-year-old recent college graduate to today, Dick was a mentor, a sounding board, an advisor, my Chicago travel buddy and, above all, a friend. It has truly been an honor and a privilege to work beside him for 14 years. Luckily, he lives right around the corner, so I’ll see him soon and I’ll send him your best, as I know he touched so many in the travel industry. Until then, cheers to you, Mr. Evans.

COLUMNISTS Margaret Backenheimer Debra Bokur J.D. Brown Mark Chesnut Eunice Fried Jack Guy

WRITERS Kristy Alpert Nicole Bergstrom Teresa Bitler Jack Guy Becca Hensley Steve Jermanok Sharon King Hoge Karin Leperi Kelly Magyarics Richard Newton Holly Riddle

For complete bios visit globaltravelerusa.com

CIRCULATION Specialists John Wroblewski, Louie Atsaves Managers Jayhawk Evans, Mark P. Ford, Teresa Jackson, Anthony “Scraps” Dimera Circulation Director Michele Shannon Circulation Manager Anna Pudzianowski Research Consultant Sharon Sterne

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman Michael Donahue COO Michael Kiely President Carlos Cappuccio Executive Vice President Gary Oswald Deputy Vice President Aviation Edward Jefferson Deputy Vice President Accommodations Stephen Doherty Deputy Director Destinations Wayne Tallman Vice President Special Events/Photography Christopher Ottaunick Secretary Mark Lane Research Director Frank LoVerme Treasurer Kevin Ryan Director of Technology Bob Hancock Director of Digital Advancement Jared Torgan

GENERAL COUNSEL Thomas F. Goldman CONTACT US General Inquiries/Issue Requests/Reprints tel 267 364 5811 Subscriptions tel 818 286 3134 | gbtcs@magserv.com Public Relations Kimberly Krol tel 267 364 5811 ext 202 | kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com Letters to the Editor letters@globaltravelerusa.com

Kimberly Krol Editor in Chief

As of publication, the destinations and venues mentioned in this issue were planning to reopen or are currently operating, but many may have restrictions or limitations in place to address current public health concerns. Always check in advance to confirm current requirements and restrictions.

Global Traveler is published monthly by FXExpress Publications, Inc., 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067. The U.S. subscription rate is $42 for one year, $79.95 for two years, $121.95 for three years.

Postmaster: Please send changes of address to Global Traveler, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

3

LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER ®

ADVERTISING Publisher/CEO Francis X. Gallagher tel 267 364 5811 ext 200 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Executive Vice President, Associate Publisher Carly Allen tel 267 495 6287 | carly.allen@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive Sarah Ward tel 310 469 2616 | sarah.ward@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive Mariana Zenizo tel 52 55 6560 1152 | marzenizo@gmail.com Account Executive Lexi Holstin tel 267 364 5811 ext 205 | lexi.holstin@globaltravelerusa.com Production & Advertising Coordinator Yasser Ogando tel 267 884 1650 | yasser.ogando@globaltravelerusa.com

Down Time: Francis enjoying a refreshing summer cocktail — without a mask

REPRESENTATIVES

PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Back to Travel

N

othing is cleaner than airlines, hotels and car rentals. These companies employ trackable and reliable procedures to clean between uses through known services and the best procedures in the business. Can the same be said for Uber, Lyft and Airbnb? I think not.

There is a broken chain of discipline between these sharing companies and their end product used by consumers. Even though all Uber drivers are supposed to wear masks, they do not. Even though windows are to be kept open, they are not. I stayed in an Airbnb in Gilbert, Arizona, in early March where the owner’s food was in the refrigerator, his clothing hung in every closet and even his toiletries were in the bathroom. There is no way you can be assured these services are clean.

But airlines, hotels and car rental companies always adhered to a regimen of cleaning, and even though it was far from perfect prior to the pandemic, they had procedures in place … and it is easier to improve upon procedures versus creating them from scratch. I had no problem flying last month, and I had no concerns going through airports and picking up my rental car. Chicago O’Hare really embraced this

4

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

open cleanliness concept with Airport Ambassadors gently reminding guests of the protocols and cleaners visibly wiping down surfaces. O’Hare and Midway embrace the slogan “Reconnecting to the World,” and after months of not traveling, that is exactly what we are doing.

I know a number of you are not ready to travel, and that is your right. But for those of you on the fence, take the plunge and #ComeBackToTravel, as we have been pushing on our social media. I was pleased to see American Airlines and United Airlines are taking Global Traveler back in their lounges, and Delta Air Lines will follow. I agree with selling all the available seats; it is unrealistic to expect the travel industry to hold back any further after great losses.

So get back in the saddle and enjoy your travels.

You can remove your mask when sipping your favorite cocktail!

France Géraldine Roger tel 33 1 88 32 62 61 | cell 33 7 81 22 02 36 groger@asset-media.com Germany Michaela Justi tel 49 26 26 925 01 12 | cell 49 171 20 29 502 justi@mediasalescompany.de Hong Kong, Thailand, Singapore, Australia Jeremy Orritt tel 852 23752311 | cell 852 91886157 jeremy@omjmedia.com India Faredoon Kuka tel 9122 2925 3735 | cell 91 98200 85045 kuka@rmamedia.com Japan Hidetada Kochi, Mediahouse Inc. tel 81 3 3222 7811 | cell 81 3 90 8774 9800 kochi@mediahs.com South Korea JEFF HWANG tel 82 31 702 7782 | cell 82 10 3498 9117 gng@gngcom.co.kr Spain Luis Andrade tel 34 91 788 5304 landrade@luisandrade.com Taiwan Keith Lee tel 886 2 2523 8268 leekh@ms4.hinet.net Turkey Saba Sarol Corzo tel 90 532 311 6704 or 1 310 562 2580 saba@catalyzismedia.com UK Stefanie Stroh-Begg tel 44 20 7611 1900 | cell 44 7798 665 395 stefanie@mercury-publicity.com

Francis X. Gallagher Publisher and CEO fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com

CORPORATE OFFICE 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 tel 267 364 5811 | fax 267 364 5796

July/August 2020

CONTENTS

features

on the cover globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

July/August 2020

ABU DHABI p. 68 ACCRA p. 62 AMSTERDAM p.70 BANGKOK p. 58 CHARLOTTE p. 54 LAS VEGAS p. 60 NICARAGUA p. 56 SEYCHELLES p.72 SOFIA p. 64

SUNNY SIDE UP

A warm welcome awaits in remarkably resilient San Juan. p. 48

COVER PHOTO: OLD SAN JUAN PHOTO: © MIKOLAJ64 - DREAMSTIME.COM

38

Get Well Travel to retreats to enhance your mind, body and spirit.

42

Up in the Air The aviation industry faces critical airspace issues.

business destinations 48

Destination One: San Juan A warm welcome awaits in remarkably resilient San Juan.

54

PHOTOS: © GRAND VELAS,

38 58

9–5: Bangkok Wellness options blend work and play in Bangkok.

60

After 5: Las Vegas Look for the latest dining concepts, after-hours venues and mindblowing shows in Las Vegas.

Stateside: Charlotte Charlotte hums with urban amenities and outdoor beauty.

56

MICE: Nicaragua Book a memorable event amid Nicaragua’s stunning natural attractions.

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

5

July/August 2020

CONTENTS

in every issue 10 14 16 21 24 26 28 29 30 32 34 36 76 78 80 82

70

74

Mail Call News Reviews One on One: Visit Philladelphia One on One: The Beaumont, London Technology Wine & Spirits Wealth Spas Golf Chefs Cruising LGBTQ+ Airport Update Medical Tourism Preview

leisure destinations 62

Neighborhoods: Accra Seek a serene retreat in Accra’s charming Cantonments.

64

Friends & Family: Sofia Take it slow and savor Sofia with family or friends.

68

74

34

70

Bucket List: Bloemenmarkt, Amsterdam Amsterdam bursts into kaleidoscopic color.

72

Kicking Back: Seychelles Get away from it all in the picturesque Seychelles.

FX

EXPRESS

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

68

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2020 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

6

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

PHOTO: © UDAY BHANU - DREAMSTIME.COM

Tours: Abu Dhabi Discover Middle Eastern culture on tours in and around Abu Dhabi.

ADVERTISEMENT

Taking to the Sky Again with Turkish Airlines:

New Safety Protocols, In-flight Hygiene Experts & Amenities TURKISH AIRLINES, FLYING TO MORE COUNTRIES THAN ANY OTHER AIRLINE IN THE WORLD, is known for its premium travel experience, world-class services and amenities, award-winning cuisine and world-famous Turkish hospitality. The global carrier’s latest venture?

Preparing its passengers and crew for a safe air travel experience as travelers regain confidence to travel the world again.

Regarding the flag carrier’s efforts throughout Istanbul Airport and beyond, Turkish Airlines’ Chairman of the Board and the Executive Committee M. Ilker Ayci explained, “We are working hard on all contact points to ensure a healthy and safe travel experience for our passengers, and are providing significant services to our passengers with our enhanced guidelines for safe travel that are prepared in accordance with instructions of scientists.”

ADVERTISEMENT

So, with new scientist-backed guidelines in place, what does a typical Turkish Airlines’ flight experience look like now?

The airline’s hub at Turkey’s new, state-of-theart Istanbul Airport, the biggest built-from-scratch airport terminal in the world and projected to have an annual capacity of 200 million passengers upon final completion, offers an incredibly smart and innovative travel experience. Next-level precautions are being taken when it comes to keeping travelers safe during COVID-19, from smart screening helmets measuring passengers’ body temperatures to sanitizing luggage during the X-ray screening process to the terminal building cleaning via UV autonomous robotic cleaners.

If you are flying from Istanbul Airport, hand sanitizer can immediately be found at the airport’s entrances and wearing a mask is obligatory for passengers and all personnel. Passengers can check in online via the flag carrier’s mobile app or website to reduce contact before the flight. But for those who do check-in at the airport, panes have been placed at all Turkish Airlines’ service counters so passengers can experience no-contact check-in. Automated baggage check-in is also available at kiosks to allow for safe baggage drop.

It’s important to know that in order to minimize physical contact aboard, Turkish Airlines’ passengers will only be permitted to take personal and valuable belongings with them, like a laptop bag or purse. All other cabin baggage will be registered at check-in.

Before boarding the aircraft, cabin crews’ temperatures are checked to confirm they do not have a fever and members are then provided with protective equipment. And when passengers are called to board their flight, they will be called in small groups and the last row will board first in order to minimize crowding.

Most notably, Turkish Airlines recently introduced two new in-flight service changes to protect the health of its guests. Upon boarding, passengers will be given an individual Hygiene Kit that contains a mask, disinfectant and antiseptic tissue. And in addition to flight attendants, Turkish Airlines now has a dedicated Hygiene Expert on each flight responsible for making sure all necessary safety precautions are implemented correctly. This expert will work as a health inspector, making sure all cabin crew and passengers adhere to social distancing rules. Their duties include monitoring the mask use of passengers, monitoring the removal of masks during food and beverage services to ensure not all masks are removed

at once, as well as disinfecting and helping to instruct and prevent lines forming during lavatory use.

“We believe that our Hygiene Experts will help our passengers to feel more comfortable and relaxed about their travels,” said Chairman Ayci. As of June 2020, Turkish Airlines is the first airline worldwide to announce implementation of a dedicated hygiene expert on board.

When it comes time to deboard, passengers leaving the aircraft can expect to be safely guided by the airline’s cabin crew, and, after each flight, the aircraft is thoroughly disinfected by special teams. HEPA filters in Turkish Airlines’ aircraft use a special filtration system that can remove 99.97 percent of all particles in the air.

As domestic and international flights return, travelers will continue to look to airlines for comfort and reassurance to properly assess their personal risk factors when traveling.

LEARN MORE AT turkishairlines.com

MAIL CALL

Q&A WITH ANGELIQUE PLATAS, ASSOCIATE EDITOR Well, this year has brought a whole lot of lemons so far. While we’ve been forced to adapt to the reality of COVID-19, cancel travel plans, reschedule life events and make the most of uncertain times — my only question: What’s next? Are you shifting gears and hitting the road or braving the airline changes? If so, where to?

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

In our March 10, 17 and April 29 issues of eFlyer USA, we discussed the initial impacts of COVID-19 on the travel industry and the impending outcome of the marketplace, airline industry responses to the pandemic and hotel chains rolling out new cleanliness standards due to the virus. We also covered cancellation policies and CDC regulations for airlines, hotels and cruise lines, March–June.

customer loses the companion fare capability.

I called Alaska, and the customer service rep reinstated my companion fare as originally offered. A phone call can make a difference.

PAULA VOGEL, VIA EMAIL

CONTACT GT DO YOU HAVE A STORY TO SHARE? THOUGHTS ON A RECENT GT ARTICLE?

A few readers wrote in with thoughts and personal experiences: The public health industry is currently not set up for a huge isolation of those infected or who traveled to the infected areas. What is worse is taking information too lightly and worrying more about the markets than the importance of stopping the outbreak.

Those who have to travel for work or family issues are going to do it and carry the virus without possibly even knowing it. This is a huge negative, and a global recession is likely. Investors are taking this seriously. As the market goes down, people will stop traveling and going to malls and restaurants. People are scared.

This has infected so many more than SARS, and there is not a real plan being shared with U.S. citizens on how to contain it.

MARY LEE RIELEY, VIA EMAIL Thanks for sending the details on airlines and their practices during this pandemic.

Online, it’s reasonably easy to cancel an Alaska Airlines flight; however, I purchased ours as a companion fare. Online, Alaska issues a fare credit, either to the Alaska “wallet” or a paper voucher, but the

10

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

My wife, grown daughter and I planned a 10-day Panama Canal cruise this past March but had to cancel due to my right knee replacement in January and then COVID-19. We had booked port and starboard suites on Princess to maximize the views.

We’re thinking of rebooking for March 2021. This would be around my 80th birthday. I hope it works out.

Email: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

MIKE GREEN, VIA EMAIL

Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

The surprising thing about this situation is social isolation is easier in an airplane or airport than in a supermarket. For my work, I travel by air more than 2,000 miles every week, and the airports are completely empty and the planes are less than 25 percent full. Under no circumstance am I advocating travel at this time. Please be safe out there.

RAFAEL PÉREZ, VIA EMAIL

Write: Letters to the Editor 310 Floral Vale Blvd.

Yardley, PA 19067

PHOTOS: © ANGELIQUE PLATAS, © HELENA BILKOVA - DREAMSTIME.COM

TRAVEL IMPACT

ELEVATED END-TO-END SAFETY With the introduction of Air Canada CleanCare+, we’ve elevated the steps we’re taking to keep you safe throughout your travel with us.

Learn more at aircanada.com/cleancareplus

MAIL CALL The best way to help the beleaguered cruise industry is to “get back on the horse” in support of it, which before the COVID-19 iceberg floated across the globe, had been described as “the golden age of cruising.” The ships will be cleaner than ever — like brand-new — and with maximum sanitary precautions well in place.

Travelers cannot discover new oceans unless they have the courage to lose sight of the shore.

Sail on, sailor.

JIM FERGUSON, VIA EMAIL You published several letters from readers regarding the ditching of single-use plastic toiletries and switching to bulk options (including Marriott, Hyatt and IHG). I have never been in favor as I like trying the various toiletries and bringing some home as souvenirs. I’ve always thought the environment was the excuse but that increasing profits was the motive. I wonder with COVID-19 whether this trend will continue or whether single-use toiletries will make a comeback. I’m not sure people will feel comfortable using the new bulk containers, not knowing who or how they may have been used previously, or what viruses lurk for the next guest.

LYNN TEAGUE, VIA EMAIL I just read your article about Delta’s commitment to measures to ensure the safety and health of both their employees and their passengers.

My husband and I flew from Mexico to Tampa (via Dallas) on American Airlines, and it was hor-

rible. My husband, a travel writer and blogger, wrote about this nightmare on one of his sites.

We heard Delta was the best of the three main U.S. carriers and plan to fly with the airline for our return flight. What needs to happen is for all the airlines to be truthful and transparent: • DON’T say you are flying at 60–75 percent capacity only to have passengers turn up for their flights and find that is not the case.

• DON’T pronounce masks are required to be worn by all passengers but then allow people to ignore the rule or wear masks incorrectly.

• DON’T announce at the airport you will board the plane back to front and then disregard that.

• DON’T make announcements that the plane should deboard in a controlled manner and then do nothing to make that happen.

• DON’T send out emails to loyalty customers and press releases saying you have your crews’ and passengers’ safety, health and wellbeing in mind when that is clearly not the case.

Airlines should be truthful so people can truly make an informed decision as to whether or not to risk flying at the moment.

In our June 17 issue of eFlyer USA, we covered the new airline restrictions, including banning alcohol on flights and stricter mask enforcements.

A reader wrote in with thoughts:

travel is horrible enough. The only thing they really should do is clean their planes before each flight. Planes have traditionally not been as clean as cruise ships. I can’t count the number of times I got in my seat and touched a sticky seatbelt or armrest. It’s about time they cleaned up their act.

While not reducing prices, they are reducing services and requiring masks. It is essential to hydrate while in an airplane. It’s bad enough TSA restricts bringing water into the airport so you must buy it at a high cost. Now, wearing a mask for the duration of the airline experience, passengers may suffer from a lack of oxygen and dehydration.

My own experience with wearing a mask, and I’ve tried quite a few, is my face breaks out in a rash and I get migraine headaches if I keep it on longer than 10 minutes. I anticipate it will be sheer torture when I fly in September from Atlanta to Washington, D.C., and on to Madrid and Barcelona. When I finally board a cruise ship in Barcelona, I hope I will have peace in knowing I’m in a clean, sterile environment on a ship and I can discard the mask in the trash where it belongs.

I expect to see health lawsuits as a result of dehydration and lack of oxygen from these new restrictions. Some people will not fly unless it’s a necessity, thereby making this industry’s recovery less likely. I won’t fly unless [it’s] absolutely necessary. I have not visited family this year, and I don’t intend to under these restrictions.

I do not agree with airlines’ new restrictions. Air

TERRI M. CALABRESE

DONNA LEFFEL, VIA EMAIL

AIRLINE RESTRICTIONS KICK UP DUST

CONNECT WITH GT

GLOBALTRAVELERUSA.COM

GT is more than just a magazine.

If you have a computer or smartphone, you can connect with GT.

Visit our website to access past and present articles, reports, guides, hot travel links and deals and video interviews, as well as forms for subscribing to the magazine and our eFlyer newsletter.

PLUS TRAVEL WITH APP-TITUDE

www.globaltravelerusa.com | $3.50

Globility

May 2011

THE SOURCE FOR LUxURY BUSINESS TRAVELERS

ABU DHABI

GT APP

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

HANGZHOU

Available for iPhone and iPad, the GT app lets you search archives, read the current issue, bookmark favorites and more. Download the app today from the App Store.

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | COOK

ISLANDS

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind and soul in is clean, crisp and refreshing, offering a famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands.

BY mouth.

BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones.

PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

www.globaltravelerusa.com

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE AND ICE

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

12

pinterest.com/globaltraveler

The new GT app is

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS? Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last @globaltravelermag

@GTmag

month we featured blogs about everything from supporting small businesses to learning to enjoy stillness.

globaltravelerusa.com/blog

PARTICIPATE IN VOTING Visit our website to vote for your favorites in the 2020 GT Tested Reader Survey.

globaltravelerusa.com/ gt-tested-awards-ballot

facebook.com/globaltravelermagazine

NEWS, DEALS AND REWARDS

Unclaimed Baggage Debuts Online Store Scottsboro, Alabama, has been an unlikely tourist destination for 50 years as the home to Unclaimed Baggage, a one-of-a-kind retail store selling unclaimed and lost airline baggage and their contents. Now shoppers can experience the thrill of shopping for these items online, as Unclaimed Baggage unveiled a brand-new e-commerce site. A wide assortment of items will be available on the website at below-retail prices, ranging from designer sunglasses to iPads and watches.

All the items online and in the brick-and-mortar store are treasures airlines and travel businesses have been unable to reunite with their former owners. New items added regularly will be categorized online with plenty of filter options to make virtual shopping easy and fun. Front and center on the website are Weird and Wonderful Finds, where shoppers might find items beyond their imagination.

As the inventory is ever-changing, online shoppers can peruse traditional categories like apparel, shoes, fine jewelry, musical instruments, sporting goods, electronics and entertainment alongside more quirky sections such as Luxe Finds, New Arrivals and Unusual Finds. ________

Lithuania Rolls Out Pink Carpet for Travelers

Oneworld Launches Customer Information Portal

Travelers arriving at Vilnius International Airport in Lithuania will find themselves walking along a trail of pink spots on the floor — dubbed “cold pink” by the country, as it matches the distinct color of the country’s national šaltibarščiai soup. The trail ends at a 10-foot replica of the famed cold beet dish. Šaltibarščiai is an iconic Lithuanian dish with a cult following and appears on a number of souvenirs available in the country.

The installation is part of a “Discover Colours You Never Knew Existed” campaign, inviting travelers to discover all the colors of Lithuania.

“This year we’re taking our gastronomical identity to the next level. Two weeks ago we presented a taste map with more than 30 varieties of šaltibarščiai, last week we launched a countrywide survey on what the national menu should look like, and now this,” said Indre Trakimaitė-Šeškuvienė, head of marketing, Lithuania Travel. _______

Airline alliance oneworld launched an information portal for customers, providing updates on the health and well-being measures travelers can expect while in transit as part of the member airlines’ commitment to passenger safety and care.

The portal offers a one-stop resource for information on the various measures implemented on the ground and in flight by oneworld member airlines. Customers on multisegment journeys across the alliance can rest assured member airlines are committed to protecting their health and well-being on every step of the journey. Travelers can easily view the latest information on protocols implemented by their preferred member carrier and find out more about measures at major airports in the oneworld network.

Some of the precautions implemented by member airlines include contactless check-in, enhanced cleaning of high-frequency touchpoints, physical distancing during boarding and the use of masks and face coverings.

lithuania.travel

14

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

________ oneworld.com/covid-19/oneworldtogether

Chef Daniel Boulud to Open First Dubai Restaurant Brasserie Boulud, a new dining concept from Michelinstarred chef Daniel Boulud, will open this summer at Sofitel Dubai Wafi. Boulud’s first concept in the Middle East will offer French-inspired cuisine.

French chef de cuisine Nicolas Lemoyne will helm Brasserie Boulud, utilizing the finest ingredients in dishes like melon soup with shrimp and lemongrass and Dover sole Veronique.

“We are so excited to be bringing Brasserie Boulud to our friends in the Middle East for the very first time, and we cannot imagine a better partner than Sofitel, a brand that echoes so many of the principles we stand for,” said Boulud. “They share in our passion for excellence in both hospitality and cuisine, and we look forward to providing an extraordinary experience to their guests.” _______ sofitel-dubai-wafi.com

PHOTOS: © MARKJONATHANK - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ANDRIUS ALEKSANDRAVICIUS - DREAMSTIME.COM, SOFITEL DUBAI WAFI

unclaimedbaggage.com

The Alisal Guest Ranch Awaits

Kimpton Hotels Welcome You Back A number of Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants reopened their doors around the United States. The properties have been hard at work building upon the brand’s already high cleanliness standards while still retaining the beloved perks that enhance the uniquely Kimpton experience, including coffee hour, yoga mats and more.

Every Kimpton hotel offers a Book Now, Pay Later promotion featuring at least 5 percent off the best flexible rate and a 24-hour cancellation policy with no deposit required for hotel stays through Dec. 30. _______

The Alisal Guest Ranch and Resort in California debuted the Alisal Awaits offer, valid through March 2021. The promotion includes a group trail ride, golf green fees and cart, a fishing pole and bait, a $50 nightly ranch credit, breakfast, dinner, all beverages and cottage accommodations. _______ alisal.com

kimptonhotels.com

Want more news on the go?

Sign up for GT’s Newsletter

PHOTOS: © KIMPTON, © THE ALISAL GUEST RANCH AND RESORT, © WIGWAM ARIZONA

The Wigwam Reopens with Summer Offer The Wigwam, near Phoenix, Arizona, is open and welcoming guests back to its 440-acre historic resort, reopened under new cleanliness and social distancing guidelines laid out in The Wigwam Cares Wellness policy.

Through Sept. 30, return to The Wigwam and beat the summer heat with the SummerScapes offer, including a $50 resort credit each night of the stay. The credit can be used toward dining, the spa or one of three golf courses. To book, use promo code SMRSCAPE. Resort rates begin at $119. _______

Global Traveler’s weekly newsletter keeps you up to date with info on the go. Sign up for the newsletter at globaltravelerusa.com/newsletter.

eFlyer USA Global Traveler’s weekly newsletter brings news, deals and reviews right to you every Wednesday.

wigwamarizona.com

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

15

GT TESTED

PHOTOS: © W HOLLYWOOD

W HOLLYWOOD

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: Located at Hollywood and Vine, the W Hollywood sits in the heart of an iconic and bustling neighborhood. Upon entering the lobby, you immediately escape the outside distractions and focus on the possibilities the W offers. After a long, early-morning flight, we arrived at the W earlier than check-in time, but the friendly front desk staffer found two rooms for us.

He briefed us on the hotel as he sped through the process and sent us on our way.

GUEST QUARTERS: As I entered my aptly named Spectacular Room, I immediately thought it lived up to its name. My eyes were first drawn to the window seating area. This would be the perfect place to catch up on some work while winding down. After a short time, I was so relaxed I allowed myself to drift into a nice nap.

The extremely comfortable bed featured the signature W Hotels European-

16

style platform bed. I later learned these are available for purchase, an option I definitely will explore. Across the room the state-of-the-art entertainment system included an LG 42-inch flat-screen TV, LG CD/DVD player and Sonoro iPod docking station.

When I stepped into the shower, I was disappointed with the water pressure at first. I quickly realized I was wrong.

The water flow actually felt like a great massage. I found myself letting the water dance off my neck for a lot longer than intended, and I felt great when done.

SERVICES/AMENITIES: The spacious lobby extends to include several common areas available for work or relaxation.

Natural lighting flows from the huge wall of windows. The lobby also features a grand winding staircase leading to the second floor, which leads to more common space. Wonderful works of photographer Luke Fontana make this area come alive with images of classic and

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

current Hollywood.

There are three restaurant options within the hotel. The rooftop wet deck also includes a bar, along with the pool and many lounge chairs. Although the views are fantastic, several cabanas are available as a perfect spot for a nap or a bit more privacy.

The W has many common areas available for informal business meetings and several separate options for various business meeting needs. From a small room for strict business to a huge multiuse area with a bar, entertainment system and beautiful views, the W can meet any business meeting need.

Open 24 hours, the fitness center wasn’t huge, but it had everything needed for a great workout. I made use of free weights, several machines and an elliptical.

REVIEWED BY John Wroblewski

Although the W had everything I could want, I ventured to the surrounding area to check out the iconic theaters and the Walk of Fame. Universal Studios and other fun attractions are a short ride (or long walk) away.

-------------------------Embracing Hollywood’s past and present, the W has many cool areas. I saw guests taking selfies by many of the art pieces and other decorative features. I even took a few myself.

-------------------------Whether you want hustling and lively or quiet and serene for your business or pleasure, the W has several spots to meet your needs. It’s almost like several hotels in one.

W HOLLYWOOD 6250 Hollywood Blvd.

Hollywood, CA 90028 tel 323 798 1300 marriott.com

GT TESTED

AMERICAN AIRLINES – FIRST CLASS PHILADELPHIA (PHL) TO TAMPA (TPA)

ON THE GROUND: I left little time to drive from Bucks County to Philadelphia International Airport and hit a little bottleneck just before the city due to constant construction on I-95. All in all, the drive took 40 minutes, and parking at C was ample but not empty (the economy lot appears to be closed to make staff more efficient).

Security check-through was swift, and I was pulled aside as I had an 8-ounce spray hand sanitizer, which was checked and cleared. I walked to the gate and waited in the first-class line until boarding. When preboarding was cleared, the gate agents had to field the typical questions from people thinking it was their time to board — over and over. I laughed, thinking “First flight.” Many in the airport had their masks below their noses and a few wore none at all. Announcements warned if you refused to wear a mask, you may be placed on the no-fly list.

I was first on board and was offered a bottle of water, a bag of S’Mores Bites and a hand wipe. The flight attendant introduced herself and checked all the passengers in first class by name. I was pleased to see and read the June issue of American Way magazine; after threats of doing away with it, AA is sticking with its in-flight magazine.

PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

PRE-FLIGHT: First-class seating is comfortable on the Airbus A319, and I chose seat 2C on the aisle. There appeared to be plenty of room for hand baggage above my seat and under the seat in front of me. Some gent got all settled, putting his bags away in the seat in front of me and sitting down only to realize he was in the wrong seat and class — so musical chairs and bags proceeded, and the next group of passengers settled in with takeout from Chick-fil-A. The captain made the usual announcements but added the requirement for masks with the threat of making that darn no-fly list — as if not wearing a mask is equivalent to someone who threatens or causes an air incident. But this is the world we are in at this time.

IN-FLIGHT: The flight was calm and a bit boring with no entertainment screens and no power outlets I could see. Guess we’re just trying to get from one place to the other. The flight attendant did come around to offer a drink service, and she asked me by name what I wanted. American is serving alcohol in first class at the time of this review.

Passengers could access a vast number of movies and TV programming via the GoGo WiFi network. I still like the idea of having my own screen so I can multitask and work on my computer freely while watching a movie.

I selected The Assistant — which will not be winning any awards, that’s for sure.

TOP TAKEAWAYS: Better snacks would be nice.

-------------------------I found it simple and easy to get back in the saddle again.

-------------------------Masks were seldom fully on during the flight.

AMERICAN AIRLINES aa.com

REVIEWED BY Francis X. Gallagher

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

17

GT TESTED

MONDRIAN SOUTH BEACH HOTEL

GUEST QUARTERS: My suite near the top floor gave me a spectacular view of Miami Beach and the Atlantic Ocean in the distance. Dutch designer Marcel Wanders used a whimsical and visionary style for the hotel, paying homage to Sleeping Beauty’s castle. The room had a contemporary feel with a mix of modern furnishings and period pieces. The color palette, the décor and furnishings definitely pulled off the designer’s vision. As I entered, I walked into a spacious dining area in a full

18

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

kitchenette with a well-stocked refrigerator and a small stove top. The bathroom suite to my left held a beautiful vanity with more than enough space for two people and a gorgeous, roomy standup shower stall. The suite opened up with a super-comfortable king-sized bed with built-in reading lights and nightstands on either side. A large sofa and well-appointed desk gave the suite a nice sense of home. A large window spanning the entire width of the room provided a wonderful view of South Beach.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

SERVICES/AMENITIES: Soak up the sun at the legendary pool while people-watching or enjoying the unbeatable views. One can also relax at the signature GuyandGirl Spa or get a great workout at the worldclass gym. Make a point to have breakfast alfresco at the on-site Mondrian Caffé, located poolside with amazing views of Biscayne Bay. Other hotel amenities include water sports rental on Biscayne Bay such as jet skis, boats, kayaks and paddle boards. Private yacht charters are available through the concierge. Additionally, an Audi Silvercar is available for daily rentals. And if you’re looking for an exclusive meeting or event venue complete with on-site catering, Mondrian South Beach offers unique spaces with breathtaking views to accommodate your group.

The hotel lies nine miles from Miami International Airport and close to the Port of Miami, Miami Beach Convention Center and downtown Miami.

REVIEWED BY Bill Lodzinski

The Mondrian South Beach is currently undergoing a property-wide renovation and will begin accepting reservations again Oct. 1.

-------------------------Make a point to sip a cocktail poolside as you watch the sunset over Biscayne Bay and later enjoy the evening skyline of Miami.

--------------------------

-------------------------All main elevators are handicapped accessible, the pool has accessible access, the guestrooms feature accessible showers, portable ramps can provide access from guestrooms to balconies, and strobes and speakers are ADA compliant.

MONDRIAN SOUTH BEACH HOTEL 1100 West Ave. Miami Beach, FL 33139 tel 305 514 1500 morganshotelgroup.com

PHOTOS: © MONDRIAN SOUTH BEACH HOTEL

ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: We arrived about the time everyone else was checking in. I thought it would be chaotic, but it didn’t feel that way nor did it feel congested. I credit the large unloading area and the quickness of the valet staff. The Mondrian Hotel is an upscale hotel located in the heart of South Beach and the Miami Beach area, with an entrance on newly fashionable West Avenue, just off the hustle and bustle of Alton Avenue and a few blocks from famous Collins Avenue. Mondrian sits just minutes from the center of South Beach, downtown Miami, Miami Design District, Wynwood Arts District, Venetian Causeway, Lincoln Road, Ocean Drive and Espanola Way. Set on the stunning waterfront of Biscayne Bay, the hotel offers a tropical oasis in a cosmopolitan setting. In the soaring lobby, floor-to-ceiling windows provide spectacular views of the bay while the eye is drawn to the signature “floating” staircase. The front desk staff extended the same warm welcome we received when we drove in.

GT TESTED

HOTEL MOUSAI

TOP TAKEAWAYS: Hands down the most comfortable bed I’ve ever slept in.

PHOTOS: © HOTEL MOUSAI

ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: Climbing along the coast, I was trying to snap pictures of the cool-blue Puerto Vallarta waters outside my car window (I know, it never works) when we started winding along stone walls draped in jungle-like foliage.

Annoyed my view was blocked, I looked around to see where we were just as we were parking at Hotel Mousai — I audibly gasped. The all-glass, chic and incredibly grand entrance was so well-secluded, it somehow snuck up on me.

The entrance left little to the imagination as it displayed the entire lobby, straight back to more floor-to-ceiling windows displaying crystal-blue waters — basically a glass mansion. I accepted the fresh green juice with which I was greeted, sipped and promptly walked through the lobby, around human-sized chess pieces, to the concierge desk.

The water- and light-filled floor-to-ceiling window wall to my right was calling me, which a butler noticed as he encouraged me to leave my bags with the concierge to continue checking me in while the butler gave me an impromptu visual tour of the beach, pools and restaurants outside the window. A few minutes later I followed my butler to the elevator and up to my Mousai Corner Suite for a quick tour and a tutorial for the iPad which controls the room’s lights, music, black-out drapes, room service … you name it.

GUEST QUARTERS: I think my exact words when stepping into my room were, “Oh, my God, no way!” as my butler tried not to laugh and showed me around. I walked by a small seating area and refrigerator to the king-sized bed, facing the

first set of sliding doors opening to the balcony. The balcony wrapped around the room, offering a hammock, seating area and Jacuzzi. Back inside through the second set of sliding doors, the bathroom offered a fainting chair (if weariness befalls you while getting ready), dual vanity sinks, a separate dressing vanity, spacious wardrobe housing a safe and plush robes, a walk-in rain shower and separate smart Toto bidet toilet. The bathroom also wrapped around, in a way, offering two entrances. The more than 1,300-square-foot suite flowed so well, you could easily move from one room to the next, outside and back without bumping into anyone or anything.

SERVICES/AMENITIES: My corner suite and all-inclusive package offered more amenities than I had time to enjoy, such as the spa’s rain showers, early-morning kayaking trips and a full calendar of yoga and other group fitness classes. I did make time to head to the gym, which offered panoramic views of land and sea along with state-of-the-art equipment.

Along with all on-site dining, drinks, pools, Bahía de Banderas beach, activities and WiFi, my package included the assistance of an expert butler, who arranged for sunscreen to be delivered to my room. When I wasn’t there, he found me on the rooftop on a lounge chair by the infinity pool — where I spent most of my free time.

REVIEWED BY

-------------------------The room’s mini fridge is actually not mini at all, rather a medium-sized refrigerator filled with included beverages and snacks (for the all-inclusive package), refilled daily.

-------------------------The service was exceptional. Each staff member I encountered was friendly, helpful and incredibly efficient.

-------------------------Make time for breakfast at The Terrace — the space is like an open-air greenhouse and offers a great selection of menu items.

-------------------------The rooftop infinity pool fills up, so either get there early or arrange for a reserved seat.

HOTEL MOUSAI Carretera a Barra de Navidad Km. 7.5 Puerto Vallarta JAL. 48390 Mexico tel 52 322 176 ­0738 hotelmousai.com

Angelique Platas

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

19

GT TESTED

RAFFLES SINGAPORE

GUEST QUARTERS: The Palm Court Suites occupy the oldest part of the building alongside the lush courtyard, with convenient access to the main building and restaurant. The newly appointed rooms keep the old-world charm of the décor and architecture but incorporate state-of-the-art technology throughout the space. You enter into a spacious parlor room with a full seating area featuring chic pops of color and modern art adorning the walls. The room includes a large hanging television and a breakfast nook that doubled as my workspace. The classic and chic leather trunk-style bar holds glass bottles of waters and curated tea sets.

The bedroom charms with high ceilings, traditional whitewashed walls, teak flooring and a ceiling fan with brass accents.

Furnishings include a chaise longue, two four-poster queen-sized beds and plush rugs to soften the room. Side tables are upgraded for technology needs including a touchscreen to adjust lighting and air-conditioning and a radio with ceiling speakers. The giant teak armoire holds a TV. The his-and-her closets offer ample space and plush Chinese-style blue and white slippers.

20

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

The bathroom was by far my favorite area — so much so, it was hard to leave. Bright lighting and shuttered windows showcase the huge heritage-style spa tub, with striking black and white Peranakan tile flooring contrasted with marble walls and plush white rugs.

Your butler will draw you a bath upon request! Two large teak vanities offer plenty of space, great lighting and custom Ormonde Jayne amenities with an Isfarkand scent that I loved and took home with me. The Raffles’ peacock symbol adorns thick, white towels and heavy cotton spa robes.

SERVICES/AMENITIES: The renovation elevated the dining and drink options to a new level. My first evening I dined at La Dame de Pic, serving Michelin-starred chef Anne-Sophie Pic’s signature French dishes with a Singaporean twist alongside excellent Champagne and wine pairings. Dinner became an amazing threehour affair. I dined most mornings at the Tiffin Room which hosts a generous buffet, but I tried the dim sum program and decided to eat that every morning as it was some of the best dim sum I have had in Asia.

The Writers Bar, paying tribute to famed writer guests of the hotel, now opens into the lobby and sports boutique brown leather seating. Enjoy signature cocktails like Eternal Youth, named for regular guest Elizabeth Taylor and featuring a spritz of Forever Elizabeth perfume. The storied Long Bar still caters to the masses with its deliciously sweet Singapore Sling and bags of peanuts.

Beware the long wait, but trust me, it’s worth it.

Entering the Raffles Spa in the Arcade transports you to a tranquil paradise. As I had a midnight flight home right after my spa treatment, I chose a 90-minute Signature Gemstone massage which put me at complete ease for the long flight.

REVIEWED BY Carly Allen

TOP TAKEAWAYS: The renovation upgrades the historic hotel’s colonial design with modern touches and a beautiful aesthetic.

-------------------------The butlers, servers and everpresent and friendly Raffles doormen devote themselves to excellent service and attention to detail.

-------------------------You can dine on the property for days. Try La Dame de Pic for a truly opulent evening.

RAFFLES SINGAPORE 1 Beach Road 189673 Singapore tel 65 6337 1886 raffles.com/singapore

PHOTOS: © RALF TOOTEN/ IMAGES COURTESY OF RAFFLES SINGAPORE

ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: Arriving in Singapore is an easy affair as there are plenty of taxis for the 15-minute ride from Changi Airport, with little traffic. Coming into the circular drive of the famed Raffles hotel, you take in the view of this historic 1887 property. The equally famed doormen, dressed in traditional Sikh livery, greet guests and help with any requests.

Walking into the lobby of the newly renovated property inspires awe as you gaze on the immaculate white marble floors, towering ceiling and incredible natural light. While checking in I was offered a glass of Champagne or water. The staff confirmed my upcoming reservations and spa services and asked if they could help with other plans. They introduced me to my butler, who would be my guide and touch point throughout my stay. All guests have a butler assigned to them, and they often become part of the family.

ONE ON ONE

Jeff Guaracino President and CEO, Visit Philadelphia

A LITTLE BIT MORE

Name: Jeff Guaracino Title: President and CEO Company, city: Visit Philadelphia; Philadelphia, Pennsylvania First job: KYW News Radio Where to next: Puerto Vallarta is my next trip; I love the city. Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton had homes across from each other where they could pass undetected.

What actor or actress would play you in a movie of your life? Angelina Jolie. I am trying to be a little funny here, but I actually admire her as a great humanitarian, and she believes in diversity.

What would you be doing professionally if you weren’t in your current industry? A journalist. I have written two books, and for years I wrote the “Expert Tips for Better Travel” column in an LGBTQ+ publication. I always register with the State Department when I travel; they have a lot of services you can utilize.

What is your favorite book, movie or television show?

Auntie Mame is one of my favorite movies — the one with Rosalind Russell, of course.

What historical figure, dead or alive, would you love to have dinner with? Michelle Obama. I read her book; she redefined almost everything in her life and broke through a lot of stereotypes. She stood up to racism and homophobia, which are still very much alive.

AS A TRAVELER

What is your most recent project, and what was the inspiration behind it?

Renaming Philadelphia as the City of Sisterly Love in honor of the 100th anniversary of the 19th Amendment. It allows us to tap into the power of women travelers, GenX and Boomers.

What is your favorite aspect of the job? Interacting and celebrating with the different communities and people I meet in a week, a day or the year. We are also excited about our association with the James Beard Foundation and the Philadelphia restaurants that have been awarded.

What’s the biggest business risk you’ve ever taken? I launched “DO AC” in Atlantic City after years of decline.

Superstorm Sandy hit two months later, and we had to endure the loss of casinos, but it all paid off.

Who is someone you admire professionally in the travel industry? The late Kevin Mosher was one of the people who started LGBTQ+ charter travel. He had his own business as an entrepreneur, and he believed travel could make the world a better place. Travel helps you to better understand yourself and other people.

Tell us about a travel nightmare: It is always a nightmare if you arrive and your luggage doesn’t.

Share a comical travel experience: I remember running through an airport with my friend who was delayed in joining us on a European vacation. He got to Venice and all his luggage was still missing. We were running to catch a clipper ship. We were looking for clothes and nothing was cheap. We ended up donating some of our clothing for him; it all worked out in the end.

What is your preferred method of travel — planes, trains, automobiles, cruise ships — and why? Pretty much anything but cars.

What has been the best example of customer service you’ve experienced during your travels? A woman named Monica in Buenos Aires overheard me and a friend there on business trying to figure out what to do.

She took us to the orchestra that night. She knew all the ins and outs, and it was cool.

She got us into a box at Teatro Colón. It was unbelievable and beautiful. Monica was connected, and we never saw her again.

PHOTO: © VISIT PHILADELPHIA

THE BASICS

THE BUSINESS

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

21

ADVERTISEMENT

Chicago’s Airports are ready to reconnect you to the world Your health and safety is priority.

O’HARE AND MIDWAY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTS are ready to reconnect the world to Chicago and Chicago to the world! Whether you are traveling for leisure or business, the Chicago Department of Aviation’s (CDA) highest priority is the safety and security of the traveling public and the airport community.

THE CDA IS WORKING CLOSELY with federal, state and local public health partners to continue improving safety and cleanliness practices that will ensure that guests and airport employees are healthy and safe. The CDA has also worked with its airline partners to ensure that travelers are confident that every effort has been made to follow best practices for cleanliness and social distancing from curb to gate.

WHEN YOU ENTER CHICAGO’S AIRPORTS, you will see enhanced safety protocols such as graphics and floor decals at TSA checkpoints and concessions queues to remind the traveling public to maintain social distance. Plexiglass shields were installed throughout terminals in areas where employees have direct interactions with passengers, such as retail stores. Airport signage is utilized in high-traffic passenger areas with up-to-date information on ways to stay safe and healthy, including physical distancing and wearing face coverings. Public service announcements in terminals play on the public address system and messages on Social Media encourage the traveling public to follow social distancing requirements.

ADDITIONALLY, THE CDA HAS INCREASED surface cleaning in high contact areas at both airports, utilizing virus and bacteria killing disinfectants in accordance with Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) guidelines. Over 250 automatic hand sanitizer stations were installed throughout O’Hare and 50

additional hand sanitizer stations at Midway, along with a regimented refill schedule.

TO ASSIST IN RECONNECTING WITH the traveling public, the CDA launched the Customer Service Ambassador Program, to provide passengers with a positive and safe terminal experience. Customer Service Ambassadors are badged CDA employees who have scheduled shifts to monitor the terminals. These ambassadors offer friendly reminders to wear face coverings, as well as provide customer service

assistance. As part of their duties, they will also distribute complimentary, envelope-sealed face coverings to travelers. Face coverings are required in Chicago’s airports to help keep the traveling public and employees healthy and safe. Chicago’s airports are also ready to reconnect you to the city’s architectural marvels, world-class museums, dynamic entertainment and award-winning dining scene. Your safety is a top priority at O’Hare and Midway International Airports, and they are wellprepared to adjust to the new travel conditions as they evolve.

LEARN MORE AT flychicago.com

We are ready to reconnect the world to Chicago and Chicago to the world! There is no higher priority in our airports than the safety and security of the traveling public and our airport community.

To learn more about how we are keeping travelers safe, visit flychicago.com/covid

VISIT www.flychicago.com

@fly2ohare @fly2midway

@flyohare @flymidway

/fly2ohare /fly2midway

/flychicago

ONE ON ONE

Jannes Soerensen General Manager, The Beaumont experience and a memento to take home.

The pandemic crisis delayed the introduction, but we will launch when we reopen. I hope as an industry we will take the lessons learned from the current crisis to apply to the climate change crisis, which has not disappeared in the meantime.

What is your favorite aspect of the job? My team and guests — by far.

What’s the biggest business risk you’ve ever taken? As a 23-year-old I left my native Berlin with just a suitcase and arrived in Paris, not speaking French and without a job. Interestingly, I did not see that as a risk at the time; I trust my parents might have. Luckily, it all worked out for the best.

Who is someone you admire professionally in the travel industry? I have always admired people for certain actions, rather than idealizing the person. I have been fortunate to work with such inspiring leaders throughout my career that I couldn’t possibly pick one person.

THE BASICS

A LITTLE BIT MORE

THE BUSINESS

Name: Jannes Soerensen Title: General manager Company, city: The Beaumont; London, United Kingdom First job: Page boy at The Adlon in Berlin, Germany Where to next: New York City, hopefully!

What actor or actress would play you in a movie of your life? Alexander Skarsgård; people keep saying I somewhat resemble him.

What would you be doing professionally if you weren’t in your current industry?

I could not point to another industry per se, but anything where I could care for people and add value to a great purpose.

What is your favorite book, movie or television show? Recently I have been fascinated by Marcus Aurelius’ Meditations, a series of personal notes and musings on Stoic philosophy, probably intended for his own guidance and selfimprovement.

What historical figure, dead or alive, would you love to have dinner with?

Barack Obama, and I hope Michelle could join!

What is your most recent project, and what was the inspiration behind it? We are working on an exciting new initiative to introduce a 95 percent plastic-free solution for our bath, body and hair care products, reducing our current consumption of 32,000 single-use plastic bottles per year to zero.

Tapping into the latest generation of effective bar formulations, the hotel’s innovative new range by D.R. Harris will comprise a groundbreaking solid 45g shampoo bar and a solid 45g body wash bar, as well as a body cream and a hair conditioner in fully recycled and recyclable aluminum tubes, and a 70g soap, all lightly scented with rose geranium. These practically packaged, top-quality products will be air travel-friendly, last longer due to concentrated formulations, reduce water wastage and eliminate plastic packaging while giving guests a pleasurable bathtime

24

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

Tell us about a travel nightmare: How about a crying baby on an overnight flight! We are expecting our first son … so am I still allowed to say that?

Share a comical travel experience: Many years ago, I took a night train to Italy and spent several months in Naples. So many things still make me smile when I think about those wonderful times.

What is your preferred method of travel — planes, trains, automobiles, cruise ships — and why? What I love most about travel is the journey and the places it takes me. Any form of transport goes … although I might still be a bit of an airplane geek.

What has been the best example of customer service you’ve experienced during your travels? I arrived at Ett Hem in Stockholm one afternoon, and never has a hotel made me feel so at home. There are none of the usual hotel procedures to distract from that “being at home” feeling. Where you would normally sign registration cards in a hotel, I stumbled over the chef, who just wanted to meet me to see what I would like to eat that night. That mattered more to me than signing a paper.

PHOTO: © THE BEAUMONT

AS A TRAVELER

TECHNOLOGY

Home Sweet Home Choose smart devices for staying connected and entertained.

BY JACK GUY

ROKU STREAMING STICK PLUS Streaming content is here to stay, and the major players such as Amazon and Apple released devices that encourage you to consume media from within their ecosystems. In contrast, Roku connects to all the major streaming platforms without pushing you in a particular direction. The Streaming Stick Plus can handle 4K HDR content and offers a simple interface, plus a great remote control integrates with your TV. Another great feature is the price, which beats out comparable rivals by some margin. $49. roku.com

EUFY SMART SCALE

The arrival of smart doorbells and connected cameras heralded a new era in home security, and SimpliSafe connects the technological dots to provide all-around security for your home. Invest in the 3.0 kit and you will get a base station, motion sensor, keypad and open/close sensor, to which you can add a selection of eight different sensors depending on your needs. You might also try out the SimpliSafe monitoring package for $15 per month, and the no-contract deal means you can opt out at any time. From $229. simplisafe.com

EPSON HOME CINEMA 5050UB HOME THEATER PROJECTOR Upgrade your home cinema experience with a dedicated projector and you will wonder how you ever watched movies on a TV. This clever model from Epson uses pixel-shifting technology to provide 4K performance without the price tag, and with true 4K projectors coming in at around $5,000, you stand to save some serious cash. It’s also easy to set up and provides great contrast and brightness for viewing in varied conditions. $2,999. epson.com

26

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

PHOTOS: © SIMPLISAFE, © ROKU, © EUFY, © EPSON

SIMPLISAFE

Gone are the days when the humble bathroom scale would simply display your weight. These days, smart scales such as this offering from Eufy are capable of providing a health snapshot including metrics such as body fat, muscle mass, bone mass and BMI. Whether you’re a sports enthusiast or monitoring a health condition, the smart scale will send your data to the Eufy app for easy visualization. It can handle up to 16 users, perfect for families, and is compatible with both Apple Health and Google Fit. $44.99 eufylife.com

2020 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

HOTEL BEST AIRLINE BEST

Overall Best Airline in the World_____________________________________________________ Airline Alliance________________________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type _________________________________________________________________________ Airline Website _______________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline – Trans-Pacific______________________________________________ Best Corporate Program for Business Travelers__________________________________ Best Airline for . . .

Business Class___________________________________________________________________

International First Class_________________________________________________________

Domestic First Class_____________________________________________________________

Onboard Service ________________________________________________________________ Lounges _________________________________________________________________________

Flight Attendants________________________________________________________________

Flight Attendant Uniforms ______________________________________________________

Airline Cuisine___________________________________________________________________ Security__________________________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design_______________________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design _________________________________________________________ Best New Airline Service Launch_____________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs

Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program___________________________________________

Elite-Level Program______________________________________________________________

Bonus Promotion_______________________________________________________________

Award Redemption______________________________________________________________

Customer Service _______________________________________________________________

BEST AIRLINE BY LOCATION Best Airline in . . .

Africa_____________________________________________________________________________

Australia and New Zealand______________________________________________________

Central/South Asia and India __________________________________________________ China____________________________________________________________________________

Eastern Europe__________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ Mexico___________________________________________________________________________

The Middle East _________________________________________________________________

North America___________________________________________________________________

North Asia (excluding China)____________________________________________________

The South Pacific________________________________________________________________ To South America and Central America_____________________________________________ To Japan______________________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline_________________________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline__________________________________________________________________

AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World___________________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents____________________________________________________________ Airport Dining________________________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping ____________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport_________________________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . .

Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________

The Middle East_________________________________________________________________ Best Airport in . . .

Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________

The Middle East_________________________________________________________________

North America___________________________________________________________________

South America___________________________________________________________________

Best Individual Hotel in the World ________________________________________________ International Hotel Chain__________________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain______________________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel______________________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel _________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Website______________________________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs

Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World___________________________________

Elite-Level Program____________________________________________________________

Bonus Promotion_____________________________________________________________

Award Redemption____________________________________________________________

Customer Service_____________________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . .

Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________

South Korea___________________________________________________________________

The Middle East_______________________________________________________________

The United States _____________________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . .

Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________

Latin America__________________________________________________________________ Mexico_________________________________________________________________________

The Middle East_______________________________________________________________

OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program _______________________________________________________ Rental Car Company_______________________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_______________________________________________________________ MICE City ___________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service_________________________________________________________________________ Luggage Brand_____________________________________________________________________ Hotel App___________________________________________________________________________ Airline App__________________________________________________________________________ Best Small- to Mid-Sized Business Program ______________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card___________________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card __________________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events ___________________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program_____________________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card_________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card_______________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone

State

ZIP Code Email

WINE & SPIRITS

Savor the Flavor Straight or mixed, enjoy the unique spirit of Svedka vodka. BY EUNICE FRIED

S

vedka is a Swedish vodka whose quality outpaces its price. First made by Guillaume Cuvelier in Lidköping, Sweden, in 1998, it arrived in the United States in 2007 through its American owner, Constellation Brands, and has since become the vodka of choice for many American drinkers. Taken by its winning combination of taste and cost, they made it one of the top-selling vodka brands in the United States.

While Svedka is only 22 years old, Sweden remains one of three countries considered the world’s oldest vodka makers, along with Poland and Russia. Svedka is made of Swedish winter wheat — four pounds needed for every bottle — and distilled five times. Like most vodkas, it is bottled straight as well as in a number of fruit forms. Among them are lemon, cherry, strawberry and peach. Straight Svedka contains 40 percent alcohol, while its flavored variations have 35 percent. And while some brands of vodka cost as much as $40–45 for a 750 ml bottle, Svedka

To Your Taste: Svedka Vodka, Rosé and Strawberry Guava. Try a Tropical Cooler with 2 parts Svedka Strawberry Guava, 2 parts soda and garnish with fresh sliced strawberries.​ PHOTOS: © SVEDKA VODKA, © MAKIDOTVN - DREAMSTIME.COM

28

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

ranges $15–20.

How best to enjoy Svedka? By itself and in as many additions and variations as your imagination allows.

To understand it in its natural state, begin with a small taste of Svedka straight. Chill a bottle in the freezer for a couple of hours or more. (It won’t freeze; it has too much alcohol to do that.) Pour a small amount in a chilled glass.

Sip, slowly — very slowly — savoring each taste. The purpose is not to get drunk but to consider its flavors and enjoy every drop.

For mixing, the possibilities are virtually endless. Pour equal parts of a flavored Svedka and water or soda in a chilled glass and mix well.

Garnish with citrus peels. Or combine 1 ounce each of Svedka vodka and rosé Svedka; 2 ounces grapefruit juice; and ½ ounce each of vanilla syrup, lemon juice and hibiscus tea. Shake and strain into a Collins glass filled with ice.

Perhaps, best of all, create your own Svedka original. Skål!

WEALTH

Valuable Advice Know your business’ cash needs in uncertain times.

BY KEVIN RYAN

PHOTO: © ALEXANDAR IOTZOV - DREAMSTIME.COM

BECAUSE COMPANIES FACE MORE UNCERTAINTY AND VOLATILITY THAN EVER, IT IS IMPERATIVE TO HAVE A FIRM UNDERSTANDING OF THE BUSINESS’ CHANGED OUTLOOK AND CASH NEEDS.

A

s COVID-19 continues to impact our health care system and reopening strategies, it is more important than ever to monitor your business cash flow. Many businesses are getting by with funds received via PPP loans, but those loans were intended as a short-term fix. For many companies there may not be more relief programs, and those loans may not be fully forgiven — which means they will need to be repaid.

Because companies face more uncertainty and volatility than ever, it is imperative to have a firm understanding of the business’ changed outlook and cash needs. Knowing how much cash your business generates, from what sources and specifically when it is generated is important. Knowing how much cash your business will need and when it will need it is equally important. A great tool to assist in this endeavor is a 13-week cash flow projection.

The 13-week model covers a full quarter of a business year; and since it covers a shorter

range, it allows for more accuracy than an annual cash flow. Preparing a 13-week cash flow will force you to look at your business inflows and outflows and make decisions about items such as capital expenditures, whether or when you need to access your credit facilities, where to reduce expenses, and ensure receivables are collected as quickly as they were pre-pandemic.

This cash flow forecast allows you to prepare for upcoming liquidity issues and quickly pivot where needed. Since your budget and your cash flow model have common components, keep in mind the 13-week projection should complement the budget, not take the place of it.

For your projection to work, you will need to create a template. Enter an opening cash balance and then make assumptions on weekly cash inflows and outflows. No one is clairvoyant enough to nail these assumptions for the next three months, but this exercise forces you to view things at a more granular level and do

a deep dive into your business.

For the inflows, account for cash you believe you will collect (not earn) on a weekly basis and the expenses paid (not incurred) on a weekly basis. This gives you an estimated cash balance at the end of each week. Delineating the different vendors and expenditures down the left-hand side of the template allows you to modify payments and compare different scenarios; this is especially meaningful when you see liquidity get tight during a certain week. Once a week, place the actual results in the template and extract the estimates for that week, automatically updating the cash balance. As each week falls off, add another week, and you have a rolling 13-week cash flow projection.

Make sure you monitor the results and take time to review the data. While you refine your process, it may make sense to add or delete categories based upon your analysis, or you may broaden or narrow your inflow and outflow categories to track the data you determine most valuable.

As a business owner, it is essential to have a plan in place to have the right amount of cash at the right time to handle your cash needs. The best way to have peace of mind is to develop an effective, rolling 13-week cash flow forecast and to take action based on the results.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice.

Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

29

SPAS

All in on Wellness

Meliá Punta Cana Beach Resort takes a holistic approach to health and happiness. BY KELLY MAGYARICS

Tranquility: Yhi Spa PHOTO: © MELIÁ PUNTA CANA BEACH RESORT

MELIÁ PUNTA CANA BEACH RESORT Playas de Bávaro Punta Cana, La Altagracia Dominican Republic 230001 tel 1 809 552 1899 melia.com

30

M

y blissful sojourn started hours before I arrived at the oceanfront resort in the Dominican Republic. It began at 35,000 feet to be exact, engrossed in the soothing voice of a relaxing airplane meditation app on my phone. I’d received the app from my Meliá wellness host, and it put me in the right mindset for the upcoming days of personal development I’d be spending by the sea.

Wellness Hosts — called santhi in the native Taino, which translates to “server” — perform an integral role in the new Wellbeing 360 Experience at the 465-room Meliá Punta Cana Beach Resort. (The word also means “peace” or “tranquility” in Sanskrit.) Designed so guests can connect with all facets of themselves — physical, mental, spiritual, emotional, social and environmentally conscious — Wellbeing 360 encompasses accommodations, meals, programming and more at the all-inclusive, adults-only resort and spa in the Dominican Republic. It’s the first of its kind in Punta Cana.

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

My santhi connected with me days before my journey to glean my preferences on culinary offerings, activities and in-suite amenities. After I arrived, she welcomed me, assisted with check-in, gave me a run-down of the days to follow and helped procure spa reservations.

She also led me to my home for the next few days, one of 24 accommodations dubbed The Level Wellness Suite by Staywell. My posh suite not only included a welcome and guided meditation from American author and wellness advocate Dr. Deepak Chopra and mood-enhancing aromatherapy but also dawn simulation with light and sound to gradually wake me for those early-morning yoga classes; productivity-boosting circadian task lighting; an air purifier to remove allergens, toxins and microbes; and a shower infuser that reduces chlorine to keep hair and skin softer. But I most looked forward to the daily spa treatments included with a stay in one of these tranquil spots.

Massage and wellness are two intrinsically linked terms, and the newly launched 2,200-square-foot Yhi Spa is about as zen as it gets.

Each one of the seven suites boasts a private outdoor shower, and three couple’s suites feature private Jacuzzis. I was drawn to the Atabeyra Water Emotion area where I found seven water-focused rituals with pressure jets, steam rooms and a sauna to soothe tense muscles and ease stress.

Treatments at Yhi Spa use Moringaia, a locally sourced skincare line containing oil from the seeds of the moringa tree. Referred to as the “miracle tree,” moringa is rich in cytokinins and zeatin; both promote cell regeneration and stave off aging by nourishing cell tissues. Not only are these products amazing for your skin, but the company also helps sustain the local economy by providing jobs and donating a portion of the proceeds toward reforestation efforts along the Haiti-Dominican Republic border.

I booked the luxurious Well Unplugged offer, which started with a lesson in Pranayama breathing.

Rooted in Hinduism and Buddhism, Pranayama can involve several techniques including alternate nostril breathing and ocean breath (deep breathing into the lungs followed by an audible exhalation from the throat), all designed to reduce stress, increase mental clarity and put practitioners into a meditative state.

Since I wasn’t particularly used to this style of breathing, it was a bit distracting at first; once I grew more accustomed, I found it easier to become more mindful. Afterward, the therapist scrubbed me with Dominican-harvested cacao then donned warm gloves full of natural herbs for a heady and healing massage. Staff told me another favorite among guests is the Coffee & Sugar Please, which uses sugar cane and an organic coffee scrub from the island’s east coast to remove dead skin cells, followed by a hydration treatment using moringa seed oil.

Spa cuisine can elicit thoughts of deprivation or rabbit food, but I was pleasantly surprised to discover Meliá Punta Cana serves new healthy options at five of its 16 restaurants, which appealed to me. As a guest of The Level Wellness Suites by Stay Well, I also had exclusive access to Quimera, a dining concept with vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options as well as a DIY smoothie and juice bar with superfood fruits and veggies and add-ins like chia seeds and turmeric. And I was able to imbibe well with healthy elixirs created by a mixologist and naturopathic doctor. The digestion-aiding and inflammation-reducing Gin-Well combined ginger, pineapple and cucumber; Moringa Mojito muddled rosemary and mint; and the Mom and Juana offered a zero-proof take on the Dominican Republic’s local hooch Mama Juana, macerating red wine, rum and honey with cinnamon, clove and other spices.

In between sipping and spa-ing and savoring, I found lots to do via daily programming guided by experts: yoga, meditation, bike tours (use of a bike was included with my suite), a stroll and workshop in the botanical garden, and a fire ritual. Silent Spaces helped me turn off my inner monologue — and my cell phone — with sound healing, solo painting and reading pods; and I always find walking a labyrinth highly restorative.

And since I happened to be there on a Wellness Wednesday, I attended an oceanfront yoga and meditation session given by local holistic expert Kyra Montagu, who owns Ki-Ra Yoga Retreat Center, Spa and Hotel. Afterward, I slathered myself in mud sourced from the Rio Yaque del Norte, purportedly great for skin, circulation and removing toxins. After washing it off in the refreshing waters of the Atlantic, I felt refreshed and rejuvenated, just like the Wellness 360 experience itself.

In response to the global pandemic, Meliá Punta Cana Beach Resort adapted operations to guarantee safety for guests and compliance with regulations, including additional cleaning and hygiene measures and adjustments to procedures and spaces, which may affect some services.

Inner Peace: Level Wellness Suite (top), and yoga (bottom) PHOTOS: © MELIÁ PUNTA CANA BEACH RESORT

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

31

GOLF

By Design The Architects Golf Club pays tribute to the greatest course architects.

Open Space: Hole 2 PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

THE ARCHITECTS GOLF CLUB 700 Strykers Road Lopatcong, NJ 08865 tel 908 213 3080 thearchitectsclub.com

32

I

n May, as golf courses were just beginning to reopen, I scanned the internet and failed time and time again to book a foursome until I came across The Architects Golf Club in Lopatcong, New Jersey. The course is more than an hour from my home and nearly equidistant for two other players in our group: Chris (Yammi) Ottaunick, driving from Long Island, New York, and Mark (Marky) Lane, driving from northeastern New Jersey. Jim (Jimmy) Bolger joined us and took the trek with me. All these gents serve on the Global Traveler Advisory Board. We had an early start with a 7:04 a.m. tee time. All sorts of rules were in play due to COVID-19. We were told we could not share a cart (this rule no longer applies), the clubhouse was temporarily closed, and groups teeing off were spaced every 15 minutes rather than 10. There were no ball washers, and the holes were plugged with cut pool noodles to stop the communal reaching in the cup or pulling the flag. (The USGA allowed flags to remain in holes for nearly two years to speed play.) There were no score cards, but I had printed out a copy, and we made do.

Inspired by owners Dennis and Larry Turco, The Architects course was developed in 2001 to pay tribute to the greatest golf course architects. Under the guiding eyes of Stephen Kay, golf course architect, and Ron Whitten, architectural editor, Golf Digest, the course honors

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

70 years of terrific course designers such as Tillinghast, Donald Ross and Robert Trent Jones. (I hope they paid royalties to use these names!)

HOLE 1 OLD TOM MORRIS 509 yards, par 5 Old Tom Morris, considered by many the father of golf, was a club maker, ball maker and four-time winner of the British Open, based at the mother of all golf courses, St. Andrews. I reviewed St. Andrews in the first issue of Global Traveler in February 2004 and have lots of great stories about the trip to Scotland.

The opening hole, a straight par 5, uses the topography of the land, adding bunkers on the side to catch wayward shots.

Morris often used existing hazards including old stone walls in his designs — fun if your ball rolls against them. The green sits on a high point, offering beautiful views of the fairway behind.

A great start and four fine drives got us on our way. Somehow Yammi and Marky pulled out opening pars while Jimmy and I scored bogeys — Tom must have been pleased.

Golf Greats: Hole 1 (left), and Robert Trent Jones plaque at Hole 18 (right) PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

HOLE 2 C.B. MACDONALD 195 yards, par 3 Continuing with the father theme, Charles Blair Macdonald is considered the father of American golf architecture. Macdonald lived most of his life in Chicago but attended school at St. Andrews, Scotland, where he came under the tutelage of Old Tom Morris.

Using steam shovels to pile soil on rocky earth to create greens and fairways was one of his signatures; in a similar way, bulldozers created the Hole 2 pedestal green surrounded by strip bunkers. Jimmy and I nailed perfect shots to the green for par while Marky found one of the bunkers and Yammi had a “chili dip” chip, both carding a bogey.

HOLE 9 DONALD ROSS 447 yards, par 4 Donald Ross courses have a cult following, and having been a member of the Torresdale Frankford Country Club (now owned by the Union League of Philadelphia), I know the way Ross uses traps and greens to make a course more challenging. Ross was America’s best-known and most productive architect, known for Pinehurst No. 2, Oakland Hills in Michigan, Oak Hill in New York, Scioto in Columbus, East Lake in Atlanta, Beverly in Chicago, Brae Burn in Boston, Seminole in Florida, Oyster Harbors

on Cape Cod, Plainfield in New Jersey and Wannamoisett in Rhode Island.

Hole 9 offers a great finish for the front, with the clubhouse as your goal behind the green. Yammi pulled out all he had and nailed a ball down the fairway, with Jimmy and Marky following right behind.

(Were mulligans involved? I will never tell.) I struggled with a triple bogey, not helping my front nine score; this is why some call him Donald “blanking” Ross!

HOLE 11 WILLIAM FLYNN 544 yards, par 5 Any Philadelphian can tell you Flynn is the most respected golf course architect. He contributed to the East Course at Merion under the design of Hugh Wilson and stayed on as the greenskeeper. He went on to create some of the greatest golf courses in the world, helping make Philadelphia a mecca of golf course perfection. His gems include Philadelphia Country Club, Rolling Green, Huntingdon Valley, Lehigh, Manufacturers and Philmont (many reviewed in GT). Outside of the Delaware Valley his credits include Cherry Hills in Denver; Cascades in Virginia; The Country Club in Brookline, Massachusetts; and Shinnecock Hills on Long Island.

Hole 11 represents the twisting dogleg Flynn frequently designed (Rolling Green

in Springfield, Pennsylvania, is a perfect example). He disliked artificiality on his golf holes. Yammi, Marky and Jimmy obtained a trio of pars, and I failed to card better than a bogey. The golfer who sprays shots will be forgiven at The Architects, which has overall wide fairways and clear rough areas.

HOLE 18 ROBERT TRENT JONES 400 yards, par 4 Robert Trent Jones was a prolific designer and open to working and communicating with others in the industry. A graduate of Cornell in New York, he understood networking could improve his career. Bobby Jones and RTJ, for example, collaborated to design Peachtree in Atlanta and remodeled Augusta National. RTJ was known as the Open Doctor for his preparation of courses for the U.S. Open.

The weather showed hints of rain as we teed up for long drives on the last hole.

Jimmy took the honor of the farthest tee shot, but Yammi was the only one to contain his composure to finish with par.

Making the green in two can be challenging — as Jones would say, “an easy bogey and a difficult par.”

As the clubhouse was not open, we retired to a more distant spot in the parking lot and had a tailgate of snacks and ice-cold beer. COVID or not, golf continues!

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

33

CHEFS

When in Rome

A

t SETTIMO – Roman Cuisine & Terrace at Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese, featuring a cuisine firmly rooted in Italian tradition, diners know their taste buds will be delighted under the direction of Salerno-born Chef Giuseppe D’Allessio. Italian tradition is, quite literally, in his blood.

He honed his skills while retaining his tradition in kitchens throughout Italy and the rest of Europe, including England, France and Germany. Two received Michelin stars: Orrery and Jacques Maximin. He first joined Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese as executive chef at La Terrasse Cuisine & Lounge before moving to SETTIMO. SETTIMO is the crown jewel of the hotel, one of the highest rooftop restaurants in Rome. The cuisine rivals the incredible views of the Villa Borghese gardens, Vatican City and St. Peter’s Basilica.

As of press time, Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese was scheduled to re-open Sept. 1.

34

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

WHICH FOOD IS YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE? AND ON THE OPPOSITE END OF THE SPECTRUM, WHAT IS ONE INGREDIENT OR FOOD YOU HATE TO USE? There is not an ingredient I love to use more than others or that I hate more. Each ingredient must be studied.

You must know how to use it. It is similar to the fact each person is different but all-important. My job is to enhance it … in a dish, during the season, etc.

WHAT DISHES WOULD YOU SERVE AT A PRIVATE DINNER PARTY? The dishes that never fail in private

events are a stuffed pasta and special risotto.

WHAT WAS THE FIRST MEAL YOU EVER PREPARED ON YOUR OWN? If my memory serves correctly, it was a fresh pasta. Every Sunday my mother would make fresh pasta as a ritual. It was the first thing I did alone.

IF YOU COULD DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE IN ONE DISH, WHICH DISH WOULD IT BE AND WHY? My personal style is reflected in the dishes through a sense of simplicity with quality ingredients. A dish must touch the essentials without

BY KIMBERLY KROL

too many turns of words.

WHICH CULINARY TREND WOULD YOU LIKE TO DISAPPEAR? Today, many trends reflect our way of life, but I would make the term “fast food” disappear. Food is a moment of sharing and reflection; eating is a moment of joy. You have to dedicate time to it.

SETTIMO ROMAN CUISINE & TERRACE

Sofitel Roma Villa Borghese Via Lombardia 47 00187 Rome RM Italy tel 39 06 478021 sofitel.accor.com

PHOTOS: © ALBERTO BLASETTI

Chef Giuseppe D’Alessio takes Italian cuisine to new heights at SETTIMO – Roman Cuisine & Terrace.

P LU N G E I N

Š Myles McGuinness

S OA K U P

Whether you’re watching in awe or learning by doing, The Islands of Tahiti are rich with opportunities to discover and participate in the unique culture of each island.

TahitiTourisme.com

CRUISING

Rolling on the Rivers Explore America’s inner shores by paddle wheeler or riverboat.

BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

F

Sights and Sounds: American Empress in The Dalles, Oregon (above); and the American Queen calliope (bottom) PHOTOS: © AMERICAN QUEEN STEAMBOAT CO.

36

ar from the Rhine, the Nile, the Amazon and the Yangtze, the great rivers of America have also served boat passengers for centuries, and such cruises continue to be popular, primarily on the Mississippi and Columbia river systems. Replicas of 19thcentury paddle wheelers still hold sway. Small-town ports masquerade as pages from an American storybook. Shorelines are all aglitter with the romance of history, reflecting the lives and times of Lewis and Clark and Mark Twain.

The premier river for extended passenger cruising in America is the Mississippi, where the American Queen Steamboat Co. sets the tone. The largest steamboat ever built, American Queen headlines the fleet, featuring staterooms for 436 guests, multiple restaurants, a theater, gym and spa, as well as a paddle wheel at the stern powered by an actual steam plant. A calliope and steam whistle complete the picture. No river operator offers more luxury or more nostalgia in a single vessel. Here Mark Twain finds an afterlife on the Mississippi in the form of an onboard impersonator who regales guests with tall tales and river lore.

Employing a total of three replica paddle wheelers, American Queen Steamboat Co. regularly plies the length of the Mississippi, from Red Wing, Minnesota, to New Orleans, including Mark Twain’s picket-fence hometown of Hannibal, Missouri. It also operates branch cruises on the Ohio, Tennessee and Cumberland rivers. Many themed voyages focus on Mark Twain, the Antebellum South, regional music and even bourbon.

The modern paddle wheelers cover it all in leisurely fashion, but at a price.

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

A week on the Mississippi can cost as much as a week on the open seas aboard an all-suite, all-inclusive, ultra-luxurious ship.

American Queen Steamboat Co.’s rival, American Cruise Lines, operates two replica paddle wheelers of its own on the Mississippi, as well as three contemporary riverboats, including the 194-passenger American Jazz, to be launched later this year. Known for its spacious cabins and hop-on, hop-off shore excursion buses, American Cruise Lines also features special Music Cities cruises between Memphis and Nashville, serenading passengers as they churn from Graceland to the

UNCRUISING AN AMERICAN RIVER

Grand Ole Opry.

The same two cruise companies that dominate the Mississippi also divided up many of the spoils of the Columbia, the river that once transported pioneers and explorers, most notably Lewis and Clark, to the far edges of the Wild West. While the ways of frontier life and the beauty of untamed nature persist today — especially in the epic scenery of the Columbia River Gorge and the antique highway etched into its steep walls — the river also boasts attractions such as massive hydroelectric dam projects, whitewater rafting on its tributaries, a booming wine industry and a craft beer empire in trendsetting Portland, Oregon.

American Cruise Lines devotes two replica paddle wheelers, the 100-passenger Queen of the West and the 150-passenger American Pride, to Columbia cruising. Voyages include gratuities, a pre-cruise hotel night and free daily shore excursions. Onboard “riverlorians” entertain with tales of explorers, trappers and Native Americans; and passengers enjoy frequent tastings of regional beers and wines.

Not to be outdone, American Queen Steamboat Co. maintains the largest, most elegant paddle wheeler on the Columbia, the 220-pas-

senger American Empress, which welcomes guests March–November and calls on multiple ports and historic sites. Shore excursions run the gamut from the world-class wineries of Walla Walla and the surprising Rodin collection at Maryhill Museum to a jet boat ride in Hells Canyon (America’s deepest river canyon, deeper than the Grand Canyon).

When it comes to world-class river cruising, America has its own shorelines to offer.

Cruise in Style: The Steamboat Syncopators with The Ensemble cast on American Queen (top), and American Queen Luxury Suite (bottom) PHOTOS: © AMERICAN QUEEN STEAMBOAT CO.

Extended sailings on American rivers remain securely in the hands of two American operators, American Queen Steamboat Co. and American Cruise Lines. Requirements that cruise ships on American waterways be made in America and staffed by relatively expensive American workers have so far discouraged interested outside parties, including Viking, Uniworld and Century Cruises (a Chinese operator).

The one exception is the American-built, Americanowned and Americanstaffed boutique cruise line, UnCruise Adventures.

Even UnCruise confines its American river operations solely to the Columbia and Snake but, in doing so, created active alternatives to many of the more genteel features of the replica paddle wheelers dominating this riverway.

UnCruise Adventures offers two seven-night Columbia River itineraries August through November.

Both employ the same replica coastal steamship, the 86-passenger S.S. Legacy, a cozy vessel laden with watersport and hiking equipment. Cruises emphasize leisure activities such as paddle boarding, kayaking, whitewater river rafting, jet boating, hiking and bicycling; but these outside endeavors are amply supplemented by tastings of local, world-class wines, both on board and at superb small wineries along the way.

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

37

FEATURE

Get Well Travel to retreats to enhance your mind, body and spirit. BY BECCA HENSLEY

Blissful Harmony: Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle, Sri Lanka PHOTO: © ANANTARA PEACE HAVEN TANGALLE, SRI LANKA

38

T

he pursuit of wellness once had a direct correlation to New Year’s resolutions. After 12 months of unhealthy living, each January we collectively took the opportunity to recalibrate our lifestyle, set new goals and break bad habits. The month was marked by thronged gyms, swimmer-brimming pools, waiting lists for self-help classes and fridges full of low-calorie fare. But by February, most new regimens came to an end. Unwholesomeness, fed by stress and fatigue, reigned again — until January returned, and the cycle repeated itself.

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

But a new era has dawned. People want to commit to wellness and mindful living. Most, nevertheless, need a nudge. Enter wellness travel, a genre which includes spiritual retreats; hotels that showcase rejuvenation programs or amenities; trips that teach a new skill, digital detox and mindful repose. From better sleep to hypnosis to quell smoking or overeating, including meditation, yoga and deep connections to nature, wellness-seeking vacations of various kinds augur a more salubrious future for all. Where to go? The following retreats promise to enhance your mind, body and spirit — not just in January, but all year long and beyond.

HAWAI’I STANDS out as a premier retreat and boasts one of the hottest wellness hotels to open in recent months: Sensai Lāna‘i, A Four Seasons Resort. This allinclusive, adults-only, Japanese-inspired haven occupies an art-filled garden on upcountry Lanai. Conceived as a “reboot” luxury camp by owner Larry Ellison, in collaboration with Dr. David Agus and Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, the resort introduces a new concept: Sensei Retreat. Under the guidance of a well-trained sensei (wellness coach, if you like), guests partake of customized, goal-oriented itineraries which include unlimited spa treatments, yoga and meditation practices, fitness classes and off-property experiences from snorkeling to hiking. Meals by Nobu, transportation from Oahu on Ellison’s own fleet of planes, Hawai’ian soul and adult beverages complete the adventure.

TEXANS LOVE lake houses. Let multi-award-winning Lake Austin Spa Resort, located on 19 acres of waterfront nature, welcome you like family to its sanctum. A workout buff ’s nirvana, offering more than 100 diverse spa treatments and abundant fitness classes, the elegant hideaway smacks of a health seeker’s year-round summer camp. Eschew stress when you enjoy its Ripple Effects, a water-inspired program which capitalizes on the healing effects people reap when cavorting around H20. Take part in such watery programs as wake surfing, paddle boarding and sunset (read: wine) cruises. Even just reading from a lakeside hammock ensures transformation. Light, savory cuisine and affable staff accentuate the magic of your stay.

WELLNESSING — THAT’S A THING. Do it at Mexico’s various Velas Resorts, all-inclusive, opulently appointed properties near Cancún, in Cabo and along Riviera Nayarit. Holding annual wellness-focused conferences for true aficionados, the resort group long has led the charge to include healthy options as part of its indulgent daily repertory. Foremost on the list, its astonishing spas draw from Mexican culture, incorporating indigenous products from cacao to organic mud — even corn cobs — in treatments.

Complimentary fitness classes, even one-on-one training, are part of the package. Choose a Wellness Suite (guestroom) equipped with fitness and well-being

Healthful Havens: Se Spa at Grand Velas Riviera Maya (top); and Sensai Lāna‘i, A Four Seasons Resort (bottom) PHOTOS: © GRAND VELAS, © SENSAI LĀNA‘I, A FOUR SEASONS RESORT

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

39

RECONNECT WITH YOUR INNER VOICE (IT HAS BEEN BEGGING YOU TO LISTEN) AT CALISTOGA RANCH’S RETREATS, DESIGNED TO CONNECT GUESTS WITH NATURE’S LARGESSE AMID VINEYARDS AND OAK AND PINE TREES. THE OPTION TO PRE-ORDER MEALS WITH SET DELIVERY TIMES TO AVOID STAFF INTERACTION, GUIDED MEDITATION CLASSES, FOREST BATHING, MAPS FOR HIKING — EVEN A “SLEEPING BAG” FOR YOUR ELECTRONIC DEVICES — CONSTITUTE AN ADVENTURE CERTAIN TO HELP YOU LEARN TO LOVE YOUR INNER DIALOGUE.

Peace and Quiet: Calistoga Ranch Spa exterior PHOTO: © CALISTOGA RANCH

40

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

amenities such as a minibar stocked with healthy snacks and a Life Fitness recline bike.

AMID EYE-POPPING NATURE, anchored among lava fields, The Retreat Hotel at Blue Lagoon lies on the shores of Iceland’s most popular tourist attraction, the storied Blue Lagoon. A wellness hotel defined by its surrounding healing thermal water pools, The Retreat reigns as a destination in itself or a bookend to any planned tour of

the island nation. Perks include access to private, milky-blue pools, entrance to the public lagoon, a stunning labyrinthine spa, a yoga room with floorto-ceiling windows, complimentary activities (such as hiking), stellar restaurants and the chance to wear your bathrobe 24/7 — if your heart desires. Book the Lagoon Suite with its own geothermal pool.

IMMERSE IN AYURVEDA, one of the world’s oldest sciences, at Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort, overlooking the Indian Ocean in Sri Lanka.

A system of holistic medicine born in India, ancient Ayurveda prescripts promote the balance of mind, body and spirit. At Peace Haven, a stylish beachside

outpost, enroll in three- to seven-day bespoke retreats designed to pursue weight loss, learn yoga, address sleep issues, fight stress or detox — among other possibilities. Under the guidance of a qualified Ayurvedic doctor, you’ll follow itineraries that combine nutrition, Ayurvedic spa treatments and exercise to achieve blissful harmony. During your free time, tuck into your butler-helmed villa, lounge by the pool or explore some of the country’s eight outstanding UNESCO World Heritage sites.

SOME SAY THE ANCIENT Greeks devised the concept of spas. They called them Asclepions, temples that capped mountains to be as close to the heavens as possible, surrounded by water and trees, designated for healing. Located in the Peloponnese’s Mystras, a UNESCO World Heritage site near the legendary city of Sparta, the stylish Euphoria Retreat delves deeply into the region’s storied powers. Embracing Greek philosophy (“Let food be thy medicine,” to quote Hippocrates) and Chinese medicine, both of which rest on the concept of Earth’s five elements, the wellness refuge creates customized programs for guests. From Kneipp water therapy to a speleotherapy salt room to yoga

classes, the four-story spa promises to give solace. Its signature pinprick 3GL test allows nutritionists to create individual menus and suggest activities from hikes to rock climbing, including lazy repose among the olive groves.

STOP THE NOISE. Sometimes all you want is some peace and quiet. To immerse in hush-full stillness, sign up for the Sound Off Quiet Retreat at Calistoga Ranch in the heart of Napa Valley’s wine country. Reconnect with your inner voice (it has been begging you to listen) at these minimum three-night retreats, designed to connect guests with nature’s largesse amid vineyards and oak and pine trees. The option to pre-order meals with set delivery times to avoid staff interaction, guided meditation classes, forest bathing, maps for hiking — even a “sleeping bag” for your electronic devices — constitute an adventure certain to help you learn to love your inner dialogue. Ready to speak or be social? This once-in-a-lifetime hotel has a buzzy pool and unforgettable restaurant, and its location between St. Helena and Calistoga ensures bedazzling wine tasting adventures offproperty.

PEACOCKS AND MONKEYS on 100 acres of a former maharaja’s palace might lower your heart rate enough. But the views of the sacred Ganges River below and the robust Himalayan peaks close enough to touch join to act as a portal to rehabilitation and renewal at Ananda in the Himalayas, a luxury yoga, meditation and spa resort in northern India.

With a 25,000-square-foot-spa; access to holy Rishikesh (known as the place where The Beatles embraced Transcendental Meditation and yoga); and Ayurvedic-trained staff, yogis, nutritionists and therapists, this unique haven provides programs as diverse as yogic detox and stress management. You’ll love the spa cuisine, which can be customized to your dosha (body type): pitta, kapha or vata.

Himalayan Retreat: Yoga at Hawa Mahal PHOTO: © ANANDA IN THE HIMALAYAS

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

41

FEATURE

42

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

Up in the Air The aviation industry faces critical airspace issues. BY KARIN LEPERI

A

Staying Safe: Airplane in flight (top), airport security (left), and perimeter fence (right) PHOTOS: © ILJA MAŠÍK DREAMSTIME.COM, © COLICARANICA DREAMSTIME.COM, © GORDON TIPENE DREAMSTIME.COM

ll airplane flights begin on the ground. An airport is the starting point, but airspace issues continue to expand from the terrestrial to the aerial.

Altitude is no barrier when countries claim sovereignty from the Earth to beyond the stratosphere.

Airport control relies on readily available methods, from the mundane (like fences and doors with alarms) to the invisible (surveillance cameras and motion detectors). Security methods continue to evolve, but most experts agree the best deterrence takes place before a would-be miscreant ever gets to the terminal.

Screening passengers (not to mention crew and airport staff ) for contraband is routine if overrated. We all know of mistakes by Transportation Security Administration personnel who’ve let potential hazards pass by unnoticed — and nothing bad has happened.

“Security is both a feeling and a reality, and the two are different things.

People can feel secure when they’re actually not, and they can be secure even when they believe otherwise,” noted Bruce Schneier, a self-described publicinterest technologist who works at the “intersection of security, technology, and people.”

He pointed out, “Airport security is the last line of defense, and it’s not a very good one. What works is investigation and intelligence: security that works regardless of the terrorist tactic or target.”

Kevin Garrison, a retired senior airline captain who writes frequently about aviation, predicted, “Security

will have to become invisible and so easily done that nobody thinks about it anymore.”

Keep in mind airplane terrorism has always been incredibly rare. According to Schneier, “The risk is no greater today than it was in previous decades.” He noted the drive to the airport is still more dangerous than the flight. According to the Highway Loss Data Institute, there were 33,654 fatal motor vehicle crashes in the United States in 2018, in which 36,560 deaths occurred. This resulted in 11.2 deaths per 100,000 people. Aviation deaths? Fewer than 400 in 2018, said the National Transportation Safety Board.

The overwhelming majority of aviation fatalities involve small, private airplanes and not large commercial airliners.

Airports are slowly renovating to provide more amenities to their highest revenue passengers, from dedicated check-in desks to chauffeured rides across the tarmac at flight departure.

Lounge construction continues. At Tokyo’s Haneda Airport, Delta Air Lines started construction on a new Sky Club set to open in early July. (The carrier transferred its Tokyo-bound flights from Narita Airport to Haneda earlier this spring.)

Airports represent the public face of air travel, and the International Air Transport Association expects some $1.2–1.5 trillion to be spent on global airport infrastructure development in the coming decade. Meanwhile, airlines also work to make timely operational projections available to passengers. Delta, for instance, launched SkyWatch Daily

Outlook to provide its customers with timely information on flight delays and cancellations.

What about after takeoff ? The airspace just above airports has been under assault from birds (think about geese sucked into airplane engines), not to mention the potential dangers of drones and laser pointers.

Airports have tried a variety of methods to scare birds away, from fireworks to loud noises, but one of the most successful seems to be the use of

‘SECURITY IS BOTH A FEELING AND A REALITY, AND THE TWO ARE DIFFERENT THINGS. PEOPLE CAN FEEL SECURE WHEN THEY’RE ACTUALLY NOT, AND THEY CAN BE SECURE EVEN WHEN THEY BELIEVE OTHERWISE.’ — BRUCE SCHNEIER, A SELF-DESCRIBED PUBLIC-INTEREST TECHNOLOGIST

falconers and their birds of prey. Falcon Environmental Services’ wildlife control officers do the job at Toronto Pearson International Airport and Montréal’s Pierre Elliott-Trudeau International.

Trained dogs also have been successful in chasing birds from runway areas.

As for drones, federal rules forbid

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

43

operating a drone within five miles of most airports or above 400 feet without a waiver from the Federal Aviation Administration. You must get permission in advance from air traffic control to fly in the controlled airspace of an airport — and that’s only possible if you already

Flight Procedures Pilot and copilot in a commercial plane cockpit (top), and a No Drone Zone sign at Sedona Airport PHOTOS: © ATOSAN DREAMSTIME.COM, © EMILY743 DREAMSTIME.COM

44

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

have a Remote Pilot Certificate and are following Part 107 of FAA regulations. Drone experts think the airport sightings reported thus far are in the same category as UFO sightings. As Vic Moss, a founder of Drone U, a drone-operator school based in Albuquerque, New Mexico, said, “It’s

possible, but it’s just incredibly unlikely that it was an actual drone.”

Lasers? Most laser pointers aren’t powerful enough to reach an aircraft in flight.

During takeoff and landing, however, planes are closer to the ground, and it’s possible (although unlikely) to angle a laser such that it interferes with a pilot’s vision — though it is difficult to keep a handheld laser focused on a moving target.

In the air, commercial jets fly routes around the world, including high above some hot spots such as the Crimea, Iraq and Libya. Despite a handful of high-profile incidents (such as the targeting of a Ukrainian commercial airliner departing from Tehran recently, and the downing of a Korean Airlines passenger jet when it inadvertently strayed into restricted Russian airspace in 1983), the dangers are seen as almost negligible because each airliner’s route is calibrated to avoid recently determined no-fly zones.

What’s ahead? In the short term, airlines are reassessing their reliance on the hub-and-spoke routing that’s become routine in recent years.

It’s increasingly seen as inefficient both in flying time for passengers and fuel use by aircraft, noted Garrison, the retired pilot.

Other guesses? Hyperloop or just super-fast trains connecting cities with larger airports. Right now, for example, if it takes five hours or less to drive between destinations, driving is faster than flying, once you calculate transit time to and from airports, check-in times and time in the air.

Anyone who’s ridden the rails in China, Japan or much of Europe knows high-speed train travel can prove more efficient than flying and can free up airspace gridlock issues resulting from rapid aviation growth, another issue facing the industry.

The IATA recently inked a global intermodal memorandum of understanding with the International Union of Railways specifically to work on coordination. The airport at Frankfurt-am-Main, for example, includes a train station served by long-distance, high-speed trains.

“The United States still has the safest, most efficient airspace and airports in the world,” noted Shelly deZevallos, president, West Houston Airport. However, she said, “The last major airport built in the United States was in 1995 — Denver International — more than 15 years ago.

This in no way keeps up with our aviation growth needs.”

Urban Air Mobility is one up-and-coming development requiring redesigned airports, she reported. NASA defines UAM as “a safe and efficient air transportation system where everything from small package delivery drones to passengercarrying air taxis is operating above populated areas.” Changes in airport layout would be critical for its success: Instead of terminals between runways, passenger drop-off and loading should be to the side, DeZevallos noted, to avoid collisions.

What’s in the far future? Certainly, space tourism. It’s been promised for decades, but recent advances bring the concept closer to reality. Space flight will be available to civilians as well as astronauts and, perhaps, will serve as flights between far-flung earthly destinations. It’s such a hot topic, Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University already offers a course in Space Tourism. “With Virgin Galactic now close to completing construction on its second commercial spacecraft, the wait is nearly over,” predicted Dr. Robert Goehich, who teaches the course via Embry-Riddle’s worldwide campus.

GT DIGITAL Global Traveler offers diverse digital tools to help you stay connected on the go.

PLUS TRAVEL WITH APP-TITUDE globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

January 2020

www.globaltravelerusa.com | $3.50

May 2011

Globility

THE SOURCE FOR LUxURY BUSINESS TRAVELERS

ABU DHABI

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

9–5 | CAPE TOWN

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

There is a suggestion of sweet mint and an evocation of orange and peach in Finca La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, followed by a relatively full body and excellent balance. Altogether a pleasing, inviting wine.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) is clean, crisp and refreshing, offering a typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear and peach overtones and a gentle reminder of citrus fruits in the mouth. A particularly harmonious wine.

The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) combines keen fruit flavors, herbal notes and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of honey and floral tones.

Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripe fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with citric notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Captivating Cape Town

MONUMENTAL ICELAND MAGIC ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE

Easter Island intrigues with its mysterious stone statues. p. 72

This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

CORNWALL p. 62 CURAÇAO p. 74 CUSCO p. 70 DOHA p.50 DURBAN p.64 FALKLAND ISLANDS p. 66 AND ICEp.60 GHENT PITTSBURGH p. 56 SEOUL p. 58

JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world.

You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

62

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

www.globaltravelerusa.com

GLOBALTRAVELERUSA.COM

passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet.

Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle.

Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25).

The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million.

Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center.

Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background.

Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300.

While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

globaltravelerusa.com JANUARY 2018

GT APP

The new GT app is

Visit the Global Traveler website to access daily content, our library of articles, reports, guides, deals and videos, and to subscribe to our newsletter offerings.

Read GT on your iPhone and iPad. The GT app makes it easy to peruse the current issue, search the archives, bookmark favorites and more.

now available With the new GT app, you will be able to read Global Traveler anywhere your business takes you, right on your iPhone or iPad.

GT NEWSLETTERS

Global Traveler’s weekly newsletters keep you up to date with info on the go. Sign up for newsletters at global travelerusa.com/newsletter.

eFlyer USA

Available for download at the App Store Publisher’s Picks

Global Traveler’s weekly newsletter brings news, deals and reviews right to you every Wednesday.

GT on the Go Spread the word about your business and products via GT on the Go, a customized e-newsletter.

Premium eDeal Highlight one special offer or promotion via delivery to GT e-subscribers.

46

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

GT ’s publisher, Francis X. Gallagher, delivers his current travel favorites in this monthly e-newsletter.

GT on the Road Our weekly slideshow brings stunning photos and information on a range of topics with a current worldwide focus to subscribers every Saturday.

business destinations 48

SAN JUAN

54

CHARLOTTE

56

NICARAGUA

58

BANGKOK

60

LAS VEGAS

leisure destinations 62

ACCRA

58

BANGKOK

64

SOFIA

68

ABU DHABI

70

AMSTERDAM Pause to Reflect: Sanphet Prasat Palace, Bangkok PHOTO: © DMITRY PICHUGIN - DREAMSTIME.COM

72

SEYCHELLES

DESTINATION ONE | SAN JUAN

Sunny Side Up A warm welcome awaits in remarkably resilient San Juan.

BY STEVEN JERMANOK

NIght and Day: San Juan Convention Center (left), historic El Morro Fort (top right) and cruise ship port in San Juan (bottom right) PHOTOS: © DISCOVER PUERTO RICO, © BYVALET - DREAMSTIME.COM, © DISCOVER PUERTO RICO

48

I

t’s been almost three years since Category 5 Hurricane Maria made landfall on Puerto Rico, wreaking havoc on the island and leaving most residents without electricity and clean water.

Tourism, which accounts for 6.5 percent of Puerto Rico’s gross domestic product, took a beating, with hotels closed for year-long repairs, airlines cutting service and cruise lines shifting itineraries to other Caribbean destinations. Timing for the hurricane couldn’t have been worse, coming on the heels of the government’s announcement in May 2017 that it was unable to pay more than $70 billion in public debt and thus forced to file for bankruptcy. Large protests and a change of government would follow. Then, in January 2020, a 6.4-magnitude

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

earthquake rocked the south side of the island, forcing San Juan restaurants to close while power was restored. And as we write this story, coronavirus runs rampant across the globe with severe economic implications for all destinations, including Puerto Rico.

Facing this tidal wave of adversity, most people would assume Puerto Rico’s economy is in dire straits. On the contrary, the island staged a remarkable recovery since Hurricane Maria. Not solely reliant on tourism, Puerto Rico was able to rebound much faster than the Virgin Islands, with employment numbers exceeding pre-hurricane levels within a year of the storm thanks to construction and rebuilding. In July 2018 a destination marketing organization called Discover Puerto Rico was launched to ensure the positive aspects of the island were being reported. This led to Lin-Manuel Miranda bringing his hit play Hamilton to San Juan and led to accolades for the island, such as being named the No. 1 Place to Go in 2019 by The New York Times.

“It helped create record-breaking numbers in lodging revenue, airport arrivals and meetings bookings for the 2019 calendar year,” said Brad Dean, CEO, Discover Puerto Rico, adding the tourism sector now supports 80,000 jobs.

Arrivals into San Juan’s Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport

LODGING

DINING

Condado Vanderbilt If you’re looking for a posh beachfront locale, only a 10-minute drive from Old San Juan, it’s hard to top these 108 suites overlooking the Atlantic. It also houses the island’s first hammam spa.

1919 Restaurant One of San Juan’s most sophisticated restaurants shines under the watchful eye of Michelin-starred chef Juan José Cuevas. The fixed-price menu changes nightly, but expect tasty fare like hamachi crudo topped with ground pistachios followed by a locally caught dorado.

1055 Ashford Ave. $$$$ Hotel El Convento Housed inside a mid17th-century Spanish Colonial-era building in Old San Juan, this conventturned-upscale-property sits within easy walking distance of all sights, restaurants and business meetings downtown.

100 Cristo St. $$$ O:live Boutique Hotel This Mediterraneaninspired Small Luxury Hotel of the World in the Condado neighborhood features rooms adorned with spacious terraces, Spanish tiles and outdoor showers. At sunset, head to the rooftop for a glorious view.

55 Aguadilla St. $$$$

Condado Vanderbilt, 1055 Ashford Ave. $$$$ José Enrique The celebrity chef just added ceviche and carpaccio to his menu, along with sparkling wines and sake. Whatever you order, savor freshly caught fish grilled with Puerto Rican flair.

Reservations are a must.

1021 Ashford Ave. $$$$ Nichë Bistro Chef David Chaymol crafts local ingredients into beautifully presented FrenchCaribbean fusion fare. He offers both a breakfast/brunch menu and a dinner menu in a sophisticated, serene environment in Condado.

Acacia Boutique Hotel, 8 Taft St. $$$$

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

49

Tropical Delights: Criollo fare on a Spoon Food tour in San Juan (top), and Old San Juan cafés with outdoor seating (bottom) PHOTOS: © SPOON FOOD TOURS SAN JUAN, © SÉBASTIEN CHAUVEL DREAMSTIME.COM

50

set records in 2019, with a 5.3 percent increase in arrivals over the previous high in 2016, for a total of 4.7 million passengers. Upon arrival, business and luxury travelers can now choose from a bevy of reopened upscale properties like Dorado Beach, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve; The St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort; the InterContinental San Juan; and Fairmont El San Juan Hotel.

Recent foreign investment also led to new hotel openings such as Hyatt Regency Grand

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

Reserve Puerto Rico, making its beachfront debut in August 2019. The über-sybaritic Four Seasons brand will also make its debut later this year on the northeast coast of Puerto Rico with 136 rooms on 610 acres of beachfront property.

The big excitement in San Juan is the much-anticipated launch in the coming months of a five-acre entertainment complex next to the Puerto Rico Convention Center.

Called El Distrito, or The District, it allows attendees at the convention center to simply stroll across the street to dine at a slew of new restaurants and bars, enjoy live music, go dancing, even try a zip line. The three main anchors of the project are the 177-room Aloft Hotel San Juan; Caribbean Cinemas stateof-the-art movie theaters; and the Coca-Cola Music Hall, a mixed-use performance venue with space for 6,000 people, including two outdoor bars and a stage for performances. The restaurants and lounges will feature culinary options from fast-casual eateries to fine dining.

Following Hurricane Maria, Puerto Rico’s entrepreneurial spirit became evident in a flourishing farm-to-table movement. The country took a turn toward regionalism, with

a concerted effort to grow more food on the island and reduce imports. The result is a burgeoning growth of Puerto Rican cuisine.

San Juan-based Spoon Food Tours brings guests on walking tours throughout the city to try the dishes locals love. One of the island’s most celebrated chefs, José Enrique, creates criollo-style fare in the Condado neighborhood, a 15-minute drive from Old San Juan.

His Latin American brasserie features such entrées as fried yellowtail with sweet yam mash and salt cod bacalaítos, all washed down with a coconut and rum cocktail.

Agritourism options are also rapidly emerging, offering a behind-the-scenes look at how the island’s harvests shaped Puerto Rican culture. This is especially true with local coffee production. Numerous haciendas like Hacienda Lealtad and Hacienda Muñoz offer the chance to see the process of harvesting, roasting and grinding the renowned Puerto Rican coffee in a historic setting.

Hit with both a devastating hurricane and earthquake, it’s no surprise sustainability emerged as a major priority. The Puerto Rico Energy Public Policy Act, passed in March 2019, set a 100 percent renewable energy

mandate for 2050. The Green New Deal will elevate the economy and speaks to the island’s continued resilience. Last September, Puerto Rico played host to its first-ever renewable energy fair, showcasing energy source alternatives that will now be implemented at many of the refurbished and new hotel properties.

While creating a reinvigorated San Juan focuses on the latest projects, let’s not forget the city’s vibrant character stems from its history. Old Town, the oldest urban core in the United States, celebrated its 500th anniversary in 2019. Walk the narrow cobblestone streets past the Spanish Colonial architecture into the large plazas, and you can’t help but be smitten by its oldworld charm. San Juan might continue to reinvent itself, but its greatest allure will always be its past.

INFO TO GO Taxis are an efficient and affordable way to get around town when not walking. The approximately15-minute drive from Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport to Condado costs $15, while the 20-minute drive (without traffic) to Old San Juan costs about $19.

Luxury vehicle pickups — limosinas (usually a Lincoln Town Car limousine) — are also available. Cost from the airport to hotels ranges $100–125.

CHECKING IN WITH BRAD DEAN CEO, Discover Puerto Rico After Hurricane Maria, Puerto Rico took a turn toward regionalism, with a concerted effort to grow more food on the island and reduce imports. How has this affected the local cuisine? We have

seen a growing entrepreneurial spirit and a focus on local agriculture, leading to a boom in the farm-to-table movement. Restaurants are consciously featuring locally sourced ingredients, and chefs are encouraging locals and travelers to savor the island’s locally produced ingredients, part of the unique flavors so intrinsic to Puerto Rico’s culture.

This can especially be seen in our local coffee production.

Puerto Rico tourism bounced back in dramatic fashion in 2019. How did 2020 look before the pandemic? Would Puerto Rico be a safe travel bet for North Americans during this outbreak?

Puerto Rico had a record-breaking year in 2019 and strong momentum leading into 2020. Lodging revenue and supply were at an

all-time high, surpassing the island’s past high in 2015. Additionally, passenger arrivals were also the highest ever, receiving 5.2 million passengers across all airports in 2019. And despite seismic activity at the beginning of the year and prior to the pandemic, 2020 was poised to be a record-breaking year, as well.

Nonetheless, we learned from past adversities and prepared for a quick rebound as travel restrictions loosen. Puerto Rico exercised an abundance of caution from the onset of COVID-19 and was the first U.S. destination to implement an island-wide curfew and other measures to help stop the spread of the virus and set the stage for a rapid recovery.

The island formally reopened for in-bound tourism July 15.

Puerto Rico is known for its resiliency, bouncing back after hurricanes and earthquakes. What sustainable measures are hotels undertaking to offset global warming and the rising seas in the future? Puerto Rico is constantly

taking steps toward sustainability. In fact, the island passed The Puerto Rico Energy Public Policy Act in March of last year, which set a 100 percent renewable energy mandate for 2050. This is in addition to the Green Certification Program, which endorses participating tourism facilities that comply

with sustainable practice criteria. Recognized by the EPA, the program allows evaluation of each property to obtain certification as Green Lodging. Many properties implemented sustainable practices, from energy and water conservation to waste reduction and more.

El Distrito will soon make its debut in San Juan. What most excites you about the future of San Juan and Puerto Rico? Distrito T-Mobile, a unique experien-

tial complex that combines the best in global retail, destination dining, art, entertainment, music, technology and hospitality, will open in Q4 of 2020. It will apply safety-first concepts including technologically advanced equipment as well as refined health protocols to guarantee the safety of all our visitors and employees. Distrito T-Mobile will be an exciting new addition to the Convention Center District, which already features the Puerto Rico Convention Center (the most technologically advanced in the Caribbean) and hotels including Sheraton Puerto Rico Hotel and Casino, Hyatt Place, Hyatt House, Caribe Hilton and the new Aloft San Juan.

We’re also excited for the return of the cruise industry, given our San Juan port is one of the most important hubs for Caribbean cruising and the cruise industry has a significant impact on the local economy.

JUST THE FACTS Time zone: GMT -4 Phone code: Country code: 1 City code: 787 Currency: U.S. dollar Key industries: Pharmaceuticals, electronics, clothing, tourism

COMING AND GOING U.S. citizens do not need a passport to visit Puerto Rico.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGES Spanish and English

Island LIfe: Old San Juan homes with blue cobblestone street PHOTO: © RUBEN GARCIA DREAMSTIME.COM,

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

51

DIVERSIONS Start on the cobblestone streets of Old San Juan, founded in 1519 by Ponce de Leon. You can still see glimpses of the blue stone, adoquine, brought over as ballast in Spanish ships. Then wander over to the Historic District, undoubtedly the best-preserved neighborhood in the Caribbean. More than 400 Spanish Colonial buildings dating from the 17th century have been restored around the outdoor cafés and restaurants. Head down to the glorious green expanse that leads to the historic fort of El Morro, overlooking the pounding waves of the Atlantic. Nearby, view the murals of the colorful neighborhood of La Perla, where they filmed the music video for Luis Fonsi’s hit song, “Despacito.”

Once you have seen your fair share of the city, it’s time to drive the interior or hit the water. Take a daytrip into the mountains to visit San Germán, a smaller version of San Juan without the crowds. Founded in 1512, the town is the second-oldest on the island, and its historic zone houses a wonderful collection of buildings, spacious plazas and monuments. Then head out on one of the island’s ecotours: sea kayaking around Bioluminescent Bay after sunset, hiking underground in the massive caves of Rio Camuy Cave Park or trekking in the lush El Yunque National Forest. Bioluminescent Bay emits a neon-blue color from the microorganisms found in the water. At El Yunque, colorful orchids line the rain forest trails, leading to a refreshing dip under a waterfall. You can arrange all three adventures as day tours from San Juan.

52

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

Vibrant Nature: Juan Diego Falls at El Yunque National Forest (top), and Bioluminescent Bay PHOTOS: © IVAN KOKOULIN - DREAMSTIME .COM, © DISCOVER PUERTO RICO

PHOTOS: © CMOULTON - DREAMSTIME.COM, © BROSTOCK - DREAMSTIME.COM, © AUNXEWEI DESIGN - DREAMSTIME.COM, © MOTORTION - DREAMSTIME.COM, © AMINAT IBRAGIMOVA - DREAMSTIME.COM, © SEVENTYFOURIMAGES - DREAMSTIME.COM, © JAVARMAN - DREAMSTIME.COM, © COLICARANICA - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ENCHANTED _FAIRY - DREAMSTIME.COM

GET SOCIAL Make Global Traveler your travel companion! Like our Facebook page; connect with us on LinkedIn; and follow us on Twitter @GTmag #travelnews and #traveldeals, Instagram @globaltravelermag #snapshots and Pinterest pinterest.com/global traveler for travel updates, deals and more. Share your updates with us by using #globility. If you haven't checked them out lately, here's a sampling of what you may have missed:

Dive deep into Jewish history and culture while visiting one of the many Jewish museums in the United States.

Want to become a successful pilot? Attend United Airlines’ Aviate Academy.

Here’s some street art inspired by the Black Lives Matter movement to view on your next trip.

Date night at home inspiration from resorts around the world

Viva Tequila Festival’s Mexico Experience Tour is perfect for tequila lovers looking for adventure.

Visit and support black-owned bookstores on your travels around the country.

Preferred Hotels Group, Inc., a family-owned and -operated company, adds Beyond Green Travel to its portfolio, joining Preferred Hotels & Resorts, Historic Hotels of America, Historic Hotels Worldwide and PHG Consulting.

United Airlines announces United CleanPlus, a partnership with Clorox and the Cleveland Clinic, and commits to providing a safe and clean experience for passengers.

Hang out and play with your favorite Avengers heroes as you explore the new Avengers Campus opening at Disneyland.

STATESIDE | CHARLOTTE

In the Groove Charlotte hums with urban amenities and outdoor beauty. BY HOLLY RIDDLE

A

Soothing Sounds: Fountains in Thomas Polk Park PHOTO: © JILL LANG DREAMSTIME.COM

54

sk most Charlotte locals their histories and you’ll notice a common trend: Charlotte is a city of transplants. The fifth fastest-growing U.S. city in terms of population, with 2.6 million residents living in the Charlotte area, people flock to the Queen City. Many now-locals were once visitors who saw something they liked and decided to stick around. Some found themselves in Charlotte as a matter of business, brought along when a company from elsewhere set up shop in Charlotte’s skyscraper-laden Uptown.

The trend isn’t slowing. Businesses and employees alike are finding homes in Charlotte. “[The] people that want to live here are the same people that companies are looking to hire …” said Tom Murray, chief executive

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

officer, Charlotte Regional Visitors Authority.

“When companies make decisions to relocate headquarters, they want to see a vibrant, active urban core. They want a place where their younger employees will want to travel, [and] we see the tourism industry playing a really vital role in economic development.”

For Murray and his team at the CRVA, Charlotte’s tourism and economic success go hand in hand … and not just because one in nine locals work in the tourism or hospitality industry. In Charlotte, business attracts travelers and vice versa.

“We’ve always had [a] very strong business travel [market],” said Murray. This is partially thanks to Charlotte’s status as a banking hub. It was just announced the city will be the home to

the new Truist Financial Corp. headquarters; the company was formerly known as BB&T and took on a new name following its acquisition of SunTrust Banks in December 2019. Charlotte is also the home of Bank of America and boasts the largest presence in the country for Wells Fargo.

Charlotte likewise hosts a large number of events, attracting both weekday business and weekend leisure travelers.

“Over the last few years, we’ve hosted some large events like the Democratic National Convention and, most recently, the NBA All-Star Game. Those events help us also reach audiences who want to know why these events are being hosted here; they learn something about Charlotte during those events and they want to come

see what all the excitement’s about,” explained Murray.

In response, the city continues to offer new and exciting event infrastructure. In December the city kicked off a $126.9 million expansion of Charlotte Convention Center, celebrating its 25th anniversary this year.

Highlights of the expansion include a pedestrian bridge linking a new wing of the convention center to The Westin Charlotte, the largest convention center hotel in the city with more than 700 guestrooms. However, this pedestrian bridge is only one of two of interest to travelers to the city, as another will soon begin construction over Interstate 277, connecting Uptown and South End, allowing travelers in business-oriented and hotel-heavy Uptown to explore the unique dining and shopping in South End. Other event infrastructure undergoing recent changes include the new BOplex, an entertainment complex which combines the previous Bojangles’ Coliseum and Ovens Auditorium, adding 35,000 square feet and a pedestrian connection between the two venues.

“We’ve renovated those buildings and also [are] building a connector facility between the two of them to create one big complex,” said Murray. “That has really been attractive to some of our big events. It was used in the NBA All-Star Game.”

But what lies beyond the business side of Charlotte?

After the events are over and the work day is done, Charlotte offers plenty more to travelers. The culinary scene is popping, with more than 50 new restaurants either recently opened or set to open in the upcoming few months, with cuisine ranging from Southern fare to authentic international cuisine to classic Carolina barbecue. The bar scene complements the near-endless eateries with more than 60 breweries in the Charlotte

region, and 15 scheduled to open in 2020.

Art, culture and museum options are just as plentiful, with top-tier attractions such as the Bechtler Museum of Modern Art, The Mint Museum, Harvey B. Gantt Center for African-American Arts + Culture and the Levine Museum of the New South all within walking distance of those staying in Uptown. During the pandemic, these facilities offer access to collections and craft demonstrations via virtual experiences online.

When it’s time for travelers to rest their weary heads, Charlotte continues to deliver with an ever-expanding portfolio of hotels. The JW Marriott, InterContinental and Moxy brands are slated to make Charlotte debuts in 2021–2022. Meanwhile, luxury properties such as Grand Bohemian Hotel Charlotte, Autograph Collection, and Kimpton Tryon Park Hotel currently serve travelers to rave reviews.

“I think the city, over the last decade or so, has really worked hard on adding the amenities that are exciting for tourists,” said Murray, and those efforts are paying off. In 2018 some 29.2 million travelers visited Charlotte, and, Murray noted, Charlotte boasts a visitor economy 2.5 times larger than any other county in North Carolina — despite lacking the beach or the mountains other North Carolina destinations offer.

In Murray’s opinion, the attraction all goes back to something Charlotte continues to do well — create a vibrant urban core.

It’s in that lively zone that business and leisure travelers alike can work, eat, drink and play alongside locals who were once travelers themselves but who fell in love with Charlotte and decided to make the Queen City more than just a stop on the itinerary. They decided to call it home.

SCENIC DRIVES Easily the most well-known scenic drive in North Carolina is the Blue Ridge Parkway. The parkway spans more than 250 miles and passes through national forests, historic sites and quaint towns.

While the parkway is most picturesque during the autumn months thanks to its vibrant mountain foliage, it certainly will not disappoint at any other time of year. The parkway lies about a two-hour drive west of Charlotte.

About the same distance from Charlotte but a shorter experience overall, the Forest Heritage National Scenic Byway follows a 76-mile circular route through forests, across farms and past waterfalls. The drive takes you partially through Pisgah National Forest where, if you have a little extra time and a penchant for a bit of adventure, you’ll want to stop by Sliding Rock. The well-known swimming hole features a natural waterslide not for the faint of heart.

Work and Play: A beautiful fall sunset as seen from the Blue Ridge Parkway looking out over Cowee Mountain (above), and a sculpture of children in Wells Fargo Plaza in Uptown (left) PHOTOS: © ANTHONY HEFLIN - DREAMSTIME.COM, © KEVIN M. MCCARTHY - DREAMSTIME.COM

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

55

MICE | NICARAGUA

56

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

Local Allure Book a memorable event amid Nicaragua’s stunning natural attractions.

M

ICE travel is a hotly contested sector, and tourism boards around the world strive to work out ways to attract big events with international clients.

Nicaragua, known as the land of lakes and volcanoes, is one such nation. Central America’s largest country by area isn’t a traditional bastion of the meetings, incentives, conventions and exhibitions segment, but its tourism authorities made moves to attract more of these bookings in recent years. It’s fair to say Nicaragua has a lot to attract visitors. The country boasts both Pacific and Caribbean coasts as well as spectacular countryside in between, where some THE BEACHES PLAY A KEY of the best coffee in the ROLE IN NICARAGUA’S world is grown. Most of the population lives in MICE OFFERINGS, WITH the west, where you will REGULAR INTERNATIONAL find rough and ready Managua, the capital SURF EVENTS ON THE city, as well as the more PACIFIC COAST. charming and laid-back cities of León and Granada. The latter sits on the edge of massive Lake Nicaragua, home to the stunning volcanic island of Ometepe.

With so many attractions it should come as no surprise the country was one of the rising stars in Latin American tourism in the 2010s, but widespread social unrest starting in April 2018 hit the industry hard. Despite ongoing controversy over alleged human rights abuses, the Nicaraguan government launched an aggressive marketing campaign aimed at encouraging visitors to return, and numbers Business and Pleasure: appear to be picking up once more.

San Juan del Sur (top), Nicaragua benefits from its location, with direct daily InterContinental Managua at flights linking Managua and U.S. airports in Miami (MIA) Metrocentro Mall and Fort Lauderdale (FLL), each a 2.5-hour flight, and meeting space Houston (IAH), just more than three hours from the (bottom left), and Crowne Plaza Nicaraguan capital. Whatever your departure point in Managua meeting the United States, you won’t have any trouble with jet lag space (bottom right) either, as Nicaragua sits almost due south of Atlanta. With PHOTOS: © DIMARIK16 this sort of potential it comes as no surprise the Nicaraguan DREAMSTIME.COM, © INTERCONTINENTAL government targeted MICE visitors, with a 2015 law incenMANAGUA AT METROCENTRO MALL, © tivizing investment in infrastructure and cooperation with CROWNE PLAZA MANAGUA the Association of Caribbean States to develop the sector.

BY JACK GUY

MICE offerings concentrate in Managua, home to the 1,250-capacity Olof Palme Convention Center. The most important MICE venue in the country was built with financial support from Sweden and named after the Scandinavian nation’s former first minister. It’s an impressive space, with a recent renovation project bringing the center up to the most modern standards. Also consider the 650-person event space at the InterContinental Managua at Metrocentro Mall, which boasts 157 guestrooms, or the 147-room Barceló Managua, which can accommodate up to 450 people in its event space. Another distinctive option, the pyramid-shaped Crowne Plaza Managua, can accommodate 1,300 people in its function space and has 140 guestrooms.

Head away from the capital and you will find Hotel El Convento, a former convent in León that hosts events for up to 500 people and has 31 guestrooms, as well as Hotel Plaza Colón in Granada, with 21 guestrooms and a number of indoor and outdoor spaces for events. Around an hour’s drive west of Managua, the beachfront Barceló Montelimar resort offers function rooms for up to 300 guests as well as 293 guestrooms.

The beaches play a key role in Nicaragua’s MICE offerings, with regular international surf events on the Pacific coast. The town of San Juan del Sur developed into a hub for surf travelers, and it’s a great place to visit even when there aren’t events planned. Whether you are an experienced wave rider or a complete beginner, the beaches around San Juan del Sur have something to suit your ability.

Surfing makes a great way to unwind after a business trip, and those who don’t fancy getting into the water can enjoy the scenery and laid-back lifestyle.

Other wellness offerings in the area include Rancho Santana, where you can surf, practice yoga and enjoy spa treatments. Yoga retreats are also offered at Hacienda Iguana, a high-end development that boasts a nine-hole golf course. Those who like to relax on the course can also enjoy a round at Nejapa Golf & Country Club, on the outskirts of Managua, and the oceanfront course at the Guacalito de la Isla resort on the Pacific Coast. Another boon is the string of volcanoes running through the west of the country, part of the Pacific Ring of Fire. You can climb Maderas volcano, which forms half of Ometepe Island in the middle of Lake Nicaragua; sandboard down Cerro Negro near León; or look down over molten lava at the incredibly active Masaya volcano, within easy reach of Managua.

UNIQUE VENUES For a real wow factor on arrival, it’s hard to beat Crowne Plaza Managua, an imposing white pyramid that looms over the surrounding neighborhood. Its dedicated convention center offers plenty of room for events, and it sits by Tiscapa Lagoon Natural Reserve when you want to head out and get some fresh air. ihg.com Hotel El Convento provides another interesting option, a converted former convent in León, the secondlargest city in Nicaragua.

The original building dates from the 16th century, and it boasts a fantastic location right near the city’s central square. Plus, it contains a lush garden for relaxing and networking after events. elconventonicaragua.com

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

57

9–5 | BANGKOK

Go with the Flow Wellness options blend work and play in Bangkok.

BY NICOLE BERGSTROM

Iconic Site: Bangkok Grand Palace building, Wat Phra Kaew PHOTO: © NUVISAGE DREAMSTIME.COM

58

T

he 1985 song “One Night in Bangkok” mentions many of the overindulgences of this city. One of them is massage parlors. Today, however, a Thai massage is considered an activity that improves one’s physical and mental well-being. The city has shed its former reputation as a place of wild nightlife and decadence, over the past few decades emerging as a major center for international commerce, wellness initiatives and tourism.

Since the 1980s when the Asian investment boom began, Bangkok transformed into a hub for many multinational corporations. Now the

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

economic center of Thailand, it bustles as one of the major cities in Asia for finance and business.

Executives usually arrive in this city after a long flight and fatigued from jet lag. To acclimate to the new city and help alleviate travel weariness, many visitors combine business and wellness activities, as Bangkok offers an ideal location for a bleisure trip.

Thailand also proves an economical place to host a business retreat.

The current exchange rate of approximately 30 Thai baht to one U.S. dollar makes Bangkok an ideal place for business conferences, as opposed to the United States or Europe, where the American dollar has less buying power.

In the past few years, Bangkok has seen a wellness trend. In fact, corporate wellness in Asia is a mandatory part of a company’s human resources program. According to a report by the Global Wellness Institute, Thailand listed among the top 10 destinations for wellness in 2017, with more than $12 million in receipts from that year alone.

Popular wellness destinations in the city include Provolution, a wellness center with programs tailored for business executives. This facility offers ExerMIND, a retreat for business teams featuring activities and workshops

Leisure Pursuits: Pad Thai roti at a restaurant in Bang Kachao (top), tai chi in Lumphini Park (middle), and bike path at Bang Kachao (bottom) PHOTOS: © TELLYVISION - DREAMSTIME.COM, © S4SVISUALS DREAMSTIME.COM, © TUAYAI - DREAMSTIME .COM

to enable better work performance individually and among members of the group. For a traditional spa and fitness center environment, head to facilities such as Le SPA with L’Occitane at the Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, Spa at the InterContinental Bangkok (temporarily closed as of this writing) or Urban Retreat Spa. Bangkok also embraces healthy eating as part of its wellness trend. In this city renowned for its abundance of delicious street food, a pedestrian can sample seafood, pork, chicken and vegetable dishes from vendors.

Numerous establishments offer vegetarian and vegan menus as well as organic meals supplied by local farms and sources that work to reduce the carbon footprint. You’ll also find plenty of restaurants for enjoying healthy cuisine and entertaining business clients. Popular eateries include Rasayana Retreat, offering organic meals and a Raw Foods Café along with rejuvenation programs. Bo.lan comes in on many lists of top restaurants due to its reputation for exceptional Thai food. This establishment incorporates products from local farms while working to attain a zero-carbon goal.

Served by two airports — Suvarnabhumi Airport and Don Mueang International Airport — Bangkok boasts easy accessibility. Transportation options from the airports include taxis, buses, private transfers and rapid-transit trains. Taxis remain popular, but be sure to use a regulated metered taxi as opposed to a tuk tuk with negotiated fares. The Bangkok Mass Transit Authority now operates 470 bus routes in the city.

Getting around Bangkok on the surface roads can prove frustrating as massive numbers of vehicles congest the city streets and expressways. Due to the surge of traffic and the resulting air pollution, Bangkok developed rapid-transit lines, with the BTS Skytrain, the MRT and Airport Rail Link serving the city.

Commuters also use water buses with routes along Khlong Saen Saep, Khlong Phasi Charoen and the Chao Phraya River. Motorbikes are a popular mode of transportation for navigating the city streets. To rent a motorbike in Thailand you need insurance coverage and an international license for the vehicle type you rent. It is best to make arrangements prior to your travel.

If you want to get in some fitness time on your own, you can choose an outdoor site such as Bang Kachao and Lumphini Park. Bang Kachao, also known as the Green Lung, is a 7.7-square-mile designated conservation area just a short boat ride across the Chao Phraya River. This peaceful oasis includes Sri Nakorn Khuankhan Park, which contains many paths perfect for a jog, bicycle ride or a power walk. Lumphini Park offers a popular jogging location with more than 1.5 miles of pathways in its 142-acre area, with bicycling permitted during daytime hours. The park includes an artificial lake offering boat rentals as well as playgrounds, event venues, areas for bird watching and a library.

With year-round sunshine and warmth and an abundance of activities and venues for work and play, consider Bangkok an ideal location for a business retreat.

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

59

AFTER 5 | LAS VEGAS

Where the Action Is Look for the latest dining concepts, after-hours venues and mind-blowing shows in Las Vegas.

BY TERESA BITLER

G Center Stage: The Mayfair Supper Club – Bellagio PHOTO: © THE BELLAGIO

60

ambling put Las Vegas on the map, but experiences and activities that can’t be found elsewhere keep it there. That’s especially true after hours.

Most craft bars and cocktail lounges open by 5 p.m., allowing business travelers to go directly from their trade show, conference or meeting to a more relaxed space for networking or closing a deal. Single-spirit bars like Mama Rabbit Mezcal + Tequila Bar, gin-centric Juniper Cocktail Lounge, and mezcal-dominant Ghost Donkey and Rhumbar prove popular options.

Themed venues add a fun twist to the cocktail scene. Complete with ice chairs and tables, ICEBAR at The LINQ Promenade keeps things chill with drinks that get colder as the evening wears on.

Downtown, Frankie’s Tiki Room serves tiki classics, and The Millennium Fandom Bar caters to Star Wars and cosplay fans.

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

Chef-driven restaurants still dominate the culinary scene in Vegas, but supper clubs are creating a buzz. Guests at The Mayfair Supper Club – Bellagio sip Champagne with caviar while singers, musicians and dancers perform center stage. Rose.Rabbit.

Lie. at The Cosmopolitan presents a similar concept.

To sample several restaurants in one night, book a Lip Smacking Foodie Tour. Depending on the tour, guides lead small groups to up to five restaurants, sharing insights along the way. Savors of the Strip, the company’s most popular tour, visits four restaurants in 2.5 hours.

Following drinks and dinner, head to Area 15, an entertainment and retail complex anchored by Meow Wolf ’s latest immersive storytelling experience. Preparing to open later this year after the pandemic subsides, Area 15 will also feature a free-roaming virtual reality attraction, zip line roller coaster, live music and event spaces.

Vegas has always been known for its spectacular shows. For Cirque du Soleil fans who want to take things to the next level, Spiegelworld offers three options: Absinthe, Opium and Atomic Saloon Show. The sometimes-raunchy casts frequently interact with the adults-only audience.

Nightclubs abound in Vegas, though they trailed other types of venues in reopening. Partiers swarm OMNIA at Caesars Palace, Hakkasan at MGM Grand and Drai’s at The Cromwell even on weeknights, while the LGBTQ+ counterparts Piranha Nightclub and FREEZONE host drag shows, karaoke and themed nights.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELER’S BEST TRIPS 2020 - ONLY US CITY

SISTERLY LOVE Harp & Crown

NEIGHBORHOODS | ACCRA

Classy Enclave Seek a serene retreat in Accra’s charming Cantonments. BY SHARON KING HOGE

A

Cultural Icons: Handmade dolls and books for sale at the craft market (top), and W.E.B. Du Bois Memorial Centre for Pan-African Culture (bottom) PHOTOS: © SHARON KING HOGE

62

profusion of modern high-rises, gaudy casinos, aging colonial structures, mini mansions and shantytowns all stitched together with vendors hawking their wares up and down every street, greater Accra, Ghana’s capital city, is exhausting. Cantonments offers a relatively serene retreat from the melee. Of the city’s 50 official planned and unplanned neighborhoods, the tony diplomatic quarter, equidistant between the airport and the center of town, provides an oasis of calm. Originally intended to be a British military camp, it evolved into an enclave of shady, tree-lined streets; contemporary townhouses; and stately embassies.

Central to the area, a green, elegant park surrounds the cluster of buildings that make up the W.E.B. Du Bois Memorial Centre for Pan-African Culture, a tribute to the famous antisegregationist, pan-Africanist and civil rights leader. A Massachusetts native and Harvard graduate, Du Bois relocated from America at the invitation of Ghana’s first president, Kwame Nkrumah, and became a Ghanaian citizen. His house now holds a research library and a museum dedicated to his memory. In a leafy corner of the complex, Roots café serves beverages and snacks at shaded outdoor tables.

Across from the center you can view the grounds of the American Embassy compound among palm trees behind the metal security bars. Around the corner find the first of a series of popular local cafés and pubs where locals and expats gather to chat and watch sports events on multiple TV screens. In fact, Star, the name of a favorite local beer, serves as an acronym for a popular pastime: Sit Together and Relax.

With TV screens posted indoors and out, Lord of the Wings serves chicken with 14 different sauces, including sweet chili, buffalo hot and garlic-garlic. Farther along, down Dade Street, the Get Stuffed Deli offers menus with Thai and Indian cuisine. A great hangout also on Dade, Smoke ‘n’ Barrel serves thin-crust pizza baked in outdoor ovens and a series of cocktails, many flavored with hibiscus. At Steakstones, customers cook cuts of beef on hot stones at their tables.

Hot stones have a different use at Fiesta Residences Boutique Hotel,

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

where Lurra Spa treatments include a Hot Stone Massage Travellers’ Tension, with the heated rocks providing healing warmth. A refuge from the city’s cacophony, Cantonments offers contentment.

FRIENDS & FAMILY | SOFIA

A Pleasant Pace Take it slow and savor Sofia with family or friends.

Cultural Stroll: (Left to right) Central Mineral Bath and the Sofia Regional Historical Museum, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, and banitsa PHOTOS: © HDESISLAVA DREAMSTIME.COM, © KRISTY ALPERT

64

F

lanked by the ski resort-studded Balkan Mountains and situated directly downwind from the fragrant pine forests of the Vitosha mountain, Sofia’s gorgeous landscape and strategic location between Asia and Europe put it at a crossroads where business and pleasure intermingle effortlessly. In recent years Bulgaria’s capital city has ranked as one of the top 10 best places in the world for startup businesses, and the onslaught of new tax exemptions for businesses looking to invest in the country make it an attractive option for many corporations to begin operations within the city.

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

INFO TO GO

BY KRISTY ALPERT

Sofia is among the 15 largest cities in the European Union, yet it remains one of the most affordable. Many 5-star accommodations go for less than $200 a night, and dinners range from multicourse tasting menus with celebrated chefs to kid-friendly cuisine in bistro-chic outdoor spaces. People come from all over Europe to indulge in Sofia’s famous mineral waters, some of the most pristine springs in the world, yet the city offers its prized resource for free through municipal drinking fountains. The most famous are located in the park adjacent to the Central Mineral Bath building where locals line up every morning with jars and water bottles in

Bulgaria is home to four major airports — located in Sofia, Varna, Plobdiv and Burgas — with Sofia International Airport the largest and boasting flights arriving from more than 80 major hubs including Frankfurt, Amsterdam, Milan, London, Rome and Zürich. Major airlines such as British Airways, Air France, Lufthansa, Turkish Airlines and Norwegian share terminal space alongside budget airlines like Ryanair, Wizz Air and Onur Air. Transportation is free between the two terminals at SOF, and guests can also access the newly opened metro line from Terminal 2 and be in the city in less than 18 minutes. Taxis are readily available at Ground Transportation to carry passengers throughout the city (downtown Sofia lies only about six miles from the airport), although only the taxi operator OK Supertrans AD is recommended for travelers (make reservations online).

LODGING

DINING

Arena di Serdica Boutique Hotel This 63-room hotel houses the ancient remains of a third- to fourth-century Roman amphitheater, preserved just off the lobby of this popular hotel.

Grape Central Sofia’s top wine bar, Grape Central specializes in small, independent Bulgarian wines to pair with a petite menu of salads, seafood and pastas.

2 Budapeshta St. $$

hand to collect the hot mineral water.

During the summer months, outdoor festivals, retro puppet theaters and open-air concerts fill the city’s expansive park system with life, especially Borisova Gradina Park and South (Yuzhen) Park, while a light dusting of winter snow transforms those same parks into a postcard-worthy picture with charming Christmas markets and outdoor ice-skating rinks.

Business trips to the city typically operate within the 40-hour work week, leaving plenty of time for exploring the onion-domed churches, pristine city parks and vibrant culinary culture alongside friends and family.

Daily life in Sofia measures noticeably slower and more relaxed than life in its Eastern European sister capitals of Budapest and Prague.

Spend unhurried Bulgarian mornings sipping boza (a sweetened, fermented beverage made from either millet or wheat) and savoring slices of flaky and cheesy banitsa at local cafés like

HleBar, Fabrika Daga and Furna.

Over the years, Sofia’s various occupations by the Greeks, Romans and Ottomans led to a truly dynamic blend of influences impacting everything from the architecture to the cuisine.

Bulgarian cuisine, rich with flavors, often focuses on locally sourced ingredients and scratch-made condiments. You’ll likely find a jar of housemade lyutenitsa — a chutney of sorts made from red peppers, tomatoes and herbs — on every table, each restaurant or home cook claiming theirs is the best, and many restaurants offer thick slices of freshly made sirene cheese (a salty, white brine cheese similar to feta) as a precursor to the meal. Turkish influences appear in the grilled cumin- and pepper-spiced minced meat kebapche or in the traditional yogurt and herb drink ayran (often called the Bulgarian hangover cure), while central European-style brandies like rakia have their own cult following in the city (sample the city’s best at Raketa Rakia Bar).

Earth and People Hotel & Spa Located among the quiet residential streets of South Sofia, this 4-star hotel features 60 guestrooms and one of the city’s top spas … complete with Turkish baths and a vitamin bar.

45 Tsar Samuil St. $$ Hadjidraganovite Izbi This cozy restaurant celebrates authentic Bulgarian recipes and folklore songs. A whole lamb is slow-roasted and desserts are made from scratch each day.

18 Hristo Belchev St. $$

27 Ring Road $$ Sense Hotel Sofia As a member of Design Hotels, this 71-room property offers chic accommodations within walking distance of the city’s top landmarks.

16 Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd. $$$

HleBar The café menu changes seasonally, but visitors can always expect freshly baked breads, artisanal coffee and handrolled banitsa from this organic and vegan-friendly breakfast and lunch spot.

16 Oboriste St. $$

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

65

City View: Sense Hotel Sofia PHOTO: © DESIGN HOTELS

66

Enjoy slow-roasted lamb and skewers of meat and vegetables alongside traditional dancing and music at the Hadjidraganovite Izbi restaurant, serving gingerbread sofras on hand-carved wooden plates and offering meals either blazon (with meat) or postno (without meat).

One of Bulgaria’s best-kept secrets is its rapidly improving wine industry. Finally shedding the damage from Soviet-run vineyards, the country once again produces award-winning red wines with Cabernet Sauvignon, Mavrud and Melnik grapes. Wine bars in Sofia — like Morino and Grape Central — are especially interesting as they often focus on the country’s most exclusive wines (many not available for export), serving them alongside comparable imported wines from France, Germany and Italy in a way that makes for great side-by-side tastings.

Sofia’s pedestrian zone, Vitosha Boulevard, proves ideal for lunch meetings during the day at any of the Parisian-chic patio restaurants and outdoor cafés, where people-watching is best once the high-end stores (such as Gianfranco Ferre, Moreschi, Ermenegildo Zegna and Versace) along the boulevard open. Stop in at the Greenwich Book Center to peruse hard-to-find titles in a variety of languages. Shop for high-quality Bulgarian rose products and cosmetics at the Refan & Rose store near the locally revered Memento Vitosha coffeehouse.

Bulgarian roses are considered the finest in the world; the most coveted

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

products feature rose otto, a steam-distilled rose extraction that produces the purest and highestquality essential oil.

Many of the city’s best hotels sit near the Sofia Opera House and the impressive Ottomanera St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral — one of the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals in the world, featuring 200 icons throughout its impressive Italian marble, Brazilian onyx and alabaster interior. Sense Hotel Sofia, the city’s first upscale design hotel and a member of the Design Hotels group, features 71 minimalist chic rooms and suites, a spa area with an indoor stainless-steel pool and a rooftop bar looking out over Parliament and the historic buildings that line Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard. Just a few blocks away and across from the National Art Gallery, the Arena di Serdica Boutique Hotel boasts 63 guestrooms and one very special amenity. The hotel was built around the remains of the Amphitheater of Ancient Serdica, dating back to the third and fourth centuries. Guests can wander through and explore the ruins just as easily as they can walk through the hotel’s lobby.

Just a short 10-minute drive from the city’s center, visitors can feel away from it all, where the National Museum of History and a smattering of groomed gardens act as neighbors for the popular spa within the Earth and People Hotel.

Each of the 60 guestrooms and suites of this glass-faced hotel comes with free wireless internet and access to the hotel’s fitness studio, Jacuzzi and indoor pool area. The Spa Center includes Finnish, infrared and herbal saunas; steam and Turkish baths; a vitamin bar; and a full range of authentically Bulgarian treatments from the city’s top specialists. Consider the anti-stress massage with Bulgarian rose otto oil.

The work week runs Monday through Friday, leaving plenty of time to explore outside the city with friends and family on weekends.

Vitosha mountain offers night skiing on Thursdays after work during the ski season, but most skiers head up during the weekend to rent equipment in Aleko and access the gondola that reaches the highest peak of the mountain. Rustic mountain huts (hizhi) positioned along the runs offer a warm meal or drink during ski breaks and remain open during the summer and spring when hikers take to the mountain for some pristine mountain air.

May and June are two of the most popular months to visit the city, as it’s when Bulgaria’s roses are in full bloom, ushering in the annual Rose Festival in the nearby village of Kazanlak. Located in the Valley of Roses, each year the village welcomes hundreds of tourists and locals making the pilgrimage to take part in the colorful folk festivities. These include trying rose liquors and jams, purchasing rose cosmetics, attending the coronation ceremony for the Rose Queen and even harvesting roses the old-fashioned way: by hand.

In a lot of ways, a rose makes a great symbol for the country’s capital city, as Sofia’s peaceful pace, beautiful cityscape and thriving business atmosphere have grown together over the years, lingering like a sweet perfume in the minds of all who visit.

ADVERTISEMENT

Aeroflot – your route to Russia and beyond The Russian flag carrier offers outstanding service and convenient connections FOUNDED IN 1923, AEROFLOT is one of the oldest airlines in the world. Over the past decade, Aeroflot has transformed under the current management team led by CEO Vitaly Saveliev.

Today, it is the undisputed leader in its home market of Russia, recognized worldwide by industry experts and passengers alike for its high quality of customer service and all-around passenger experience.

Aeroflot today ranks among the largest 20 airlines globally by passenger numbers, carrying 37.2 million passengers in 2019 (60.7 million including the other airlines of Aeroflot Group).

As the Russian flag carrier, Aeroflot maintains a global route network. In the United States, Aeroflot operates flights to and from four destinations: New York City, Washington, D.C., Miami and Los Angeles.

Through its modern hub at Moscow’s Sheremetyevo International Airport, Aeroflot offers quick and convenient connectivity from the United States to destinations in China and across Asia, India and the Middle East.

Aeroflot is also a proud member of the SkyTeam Alliance, giving passengers access to an expanded route network and the unique service of the global alliance.

One of Aeroflot’s strongest competitive advantages is its fleet. The airline operates one of the youngest fleets of any global carrier operating more than 100 aircraft, with an average aircraft age of less than 5 years.

Aeroflot holds 4-Star Airline status from Skytrax, and has been named Best Airline in Eastern Europe eight times at the Skytrax World Airline Awards. It also holds Five Star Global Airline status from APEX, the U.S. passenger association.

Time Performance Review.

Aeroflot also won two categories at the World Travel Awards 2019 — Leading Airline Brand and Best Business Class. The airline was also named the world’s strongest airline brand by Brand Finance, the authoritative U.K. agency.

The airline industry has been among those most affected by the COVID-19 pandemic. But we will emerge stronger from the crisis, and look forward to flying again and giving more passengers the opportunity to experience our warm Russian hospitality and award-winning service.

In 2019, Aeroflot received a 5-star punctuality rating from OAG and was the world’s most on-time mainline airline, according to Cirium’s annual OnLEARN MORE AT aeroflot.com

TOURS | ABU DHABI

Arabian Sights Discover Middle Eastern culture on tours in and around Abu Dhabi. BY TERESA BITLER

T

he capital of the United Arab Emirates and its second-largest city, Abu Dhabi sits on the Persian Gulf, about an hour south by car from Dubai. Where the larger and glitzier Dubai impresses with attractions — home to the world’s tallest building and region’s first indoor ski park — Abu Dhabi stands as the nation’s cultural epicenter, according to local tour guide Georgette Farrugia.

She recommends hiring a guide like herself to visit Abu Dhabi’s top site, Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque (currently closed, but remote live cultural tours are available). A guide for the mosque can advise on appropriate attire, help navigate the large complex and point out highlights like the 24-karat gold leaf accents, Swarovski crystal chandeliers and world’s largest carpet.

You may also want to hire a guide for Qasr Al Watan, the Palace of the People, which receives foreign diplomats on state visits and houses the nation’s treasures, or if you have a special interest such as local crafts. Otherwise, you can explore on your own using taxis, cheaper in Abu Dhabi than rideshare options.

Qasr Al Hosn makes a good place to start a self-guided tour of Abu Dhabi (book tickets in advance online). The ancestral home of Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan, father of the nation, it is the city’s oldest standing structure. To experience a traditional Bait Al Gahwa coffee ceremony, check in at Qasr Al Hosn’s cultural center when you arrive.

Since the Louvre Abu Dhabi provides audio guides, you can easily tour the museum’s 600 pieces — 300 owned by the royal family and 300 on loan from the Louvre in Paris — on your own. Book tickets online. Although accessible only on a scheduled tour, the Abu Dhabi Falcon Hospital educates visitors about one of the nation’s favorite pastimes, falconry.

Companies like Kurban Tours and Desert Gate Tourism can provide guided tours of Emirates Palace and other attractions as well as desert safaris for off-roading on sand dunes and dhow dinner cruises. Most also offer trips to Al Ain, a city on the Oman border known for its camel souk (market), and will offer transportation to Expo 2020, the world exhibition held halfway between Abu Dhabi and Dubai. The world expo’s opening has been postponed due to the COVID-19 pandemic; it will run Oct. 1, 2021, to March 31, 2022, and showcase the cultures, cuisines and innovations of roughly 200 nations.

Cultural Complex: Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque PHOTO: © UDAY BHANU - DREAMSTIME.COM

68

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

BUCKET LIST | BLOEMENMARKT

Full Bloom

Amsterdam bursts into kaleidoscopic color.

VIBRANT DISPLAYS: (Left to right) Flowers and bicycles in Bloemenmarkt, tulips, wooden tulips, and bulbs and seeds for sale PHOTOS: © ARKANTOSTOCK DREAMSTIME.COM, © ARKANTOSTOCK DREAMSTIME.COM, © ARKANTOSTOCK DREAMSTIME.COM, © DENIS POLYAKOV - DREAMSTIME .COM

70

A

BY JACK GUY

s I wander the canals of Amsterdam on a bright spring morning, the sun plays on the water as shoals of cyclists navigate the tight streets. The city’s inimitable narrow houses teeter overhead, and one particular street erupts in a riot of color as the De Wallen red light district gives way to the Singel canal to the south.

It’s Bloemenmarkt, a historic flower market that lines the canal with bright blooms and has become a major attraction for visitors to the Dutch capital. Browse the stalls and settle into one of the cafés to watch the world go by as you drink a morning coffee. Spending a morning here proves a great way to soak up the atmosphere of the city, and the market comes with an interesting backstory.

Founded in 1862, Bloemenmarkt sits on the Singel canal between Koningsplein and Muntplein. Originally, the stalls were set up on houseboats, and the only floating flower market in the world took deliveries from the water. These days vendors sell their wares from platforms fixed over the water, and offerings expanded to clogs, cheese and other typical

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

souvenirs, but the market retains its charm.

Bouquets, flowers and bulbs are available, heavily featuring the famed Dutch tulips that arrived in the Netherlands from the Ottoman Empire around 400 years ago. The flowers have since become synonymous with the country and a huge tourist attraction, to boot. Other popular flowers at the market include snowdrops, carnations, peonies and orchids; and you can also buy houseplants and herbs. Green-thumbed visitors beware: Taking bulbs home as souvenirs requires some extra care. Be sure to choose firm bulbs that will survive the journey, and ask the seller whether they are approved for export. Some aren’t, and they could be confiscated when you leave the country.

Whether you are interested in buying or not, Bloemenmarkt remains a must-see in Amsterdam. It sits on the northern edge of the UNESCOlisted Canal Ring area, which covers the canals and historic houses built around the end of the 1500s. Plus, it’s a lovely part of town to stroll around, with great shopping around Kalverstraat and a number of good places to eat and drink. Head to fishmonger Frens Haringhandel on

INFO TO GO Amsterdam Airport Schiphol proves the most convenient option, and its status as a European hub affords connections to a vast number of destinations. The airport station is just 15 minutes from Amsterdam Centraal and also offers connections to other cities in the Netherlands. Alternatively, you can take a bus to the center of Amsterdam in around 30 minutes, or hop in a taxi.

Koningsplein to try the traditional raw herring sandwiches, known as broodje haring in Dutch, or tuck into some deep-fried morsels of fish called kibbeling, normally served with herb mayonnaise.

At the other end of the market, Muntplein is best known for its historic bell tower, cinemas and fast-food outlets like McDonald’s.

However, you can also eat at burger joint Ter Marsch & Co, or venture slightly farther east to Pho King, renowned as the place to get the best pho — Vietnamese noodle soup — in the city. Try to avoid peak times, as there are only a handful of seats indoors, with around half a dozen more outside.

Other attractions in the area include KattenKabinet, a fine-art museum which houses a huge number of artwork featuring cats, and the FOAM Photography Museum, which hosts lectures and events alongside exhibitions from contemporary photographers. If you want to see more flowers, make the short trip to the Keukenhof flower gardens (temporarily closed, but offering a virtual tour online) or the

tulip farms of Noordoostpolder from March to May each year, when the blooms make for a spectacular sight. (This year, farms closed to visitors due to the coronavirus; however, several farms wrote messages in the flower fields, visible from the air, saying “Stay strong” and “See you next year.”) Visitors in Amsterdam at other times of the year can rest assured Bloemenmarkt stays open year-round, typically 9 a.m.–5:30 p.m., with reduced operating hours on Sundays.

Cycling is by far the best way to get around Amsterdam; but if you’re not on two wheels, you can get a tram to either Koningsplein or Muntplein stations. The market is a six-minute stroll from Rokin metro station, just one stop from Amsterdam Centraal, the national and international rail hub. The Bloemenmarkt is conveniently located, making for an easy visit even if you are only in Amsterdam for a limited time, and offers the perfect spot to pick up some souvenirs while appreciating the long history of the Dutch capital and its beautiful canals.

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

71

KICKING BACK | SEYCHELLES

A World Apart Get away from it all in the picturesque Seychelles. BY RICHARD NEWTON

Natural Beauty: Hiking the Copolia Trail (top), Praslin Island (bottom), and (opposite page, left to right) La Digue, and the Vallée de Mai palm forest on Praslin PHOTOS: © CBORK7 - DREAMSTIME.COM, © FREESURF69 DREAMSTIME.COM, © SIMONDANNHAUER - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ANTONEL - DREAMSTIME.COM

72

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

N

ine hundred miles east of the African mainland, nature dropped a bunch of clichés into the Indian Ocean: palm-fringed beaches, crescents of powdery white sand, gin-clear waters. In short, the archetypal tourist paradise. Welcome to the 115 islands of the Seychelles.

This independent island nation lately earned a reputation as one of the world’s most Instagrammable destinations. A relentless tsunami of online images reinforces the clichés. The temptation is to pack your swimwear and plunge in … but there’s more to the Seychelles than photogenic beaches.

You might also want to take your hiking boots.

Most tropical islands either have a volcanic origin (Hawai’i, for instance) or are formed from coral (the Bahamas). But then there’s the Seychelles, the stranded remnants of a granite microcontinent that broke away from India 145 million years ago. The land underfoot, ancient and rugged, rises high above the beaches. On the largest of the islands, satisfying hiking trails wend through tropical forest, occasionally breaking out into the open to provide breathtaking vistas.

One of my favorite trails lies immediately inland from Victoria, the capital city, on the largest island, Mahé (pronounced Ma-HEY).

The hour-long Copolia Trail takes you to the summit of Mount Copolia, from where you can look down on the city (with a population of just 26,000, it’s scenically compact) and across to some of the other islands, including Praslin (Prahlin) and La Digue (La-deeg).

La Digue itself proves a hiking paradise, with

wonderful full-day walks that crisscross through dense forest from one beautiful beach to the next (where you can take a cooling dip before heading on). A wealth of unique plants and animals inhabit the Seychelles, and in the interior of La Digue you have the chance to spot one of the rarest birds in the world, the Seychelles paradise flycatcher.

At the center of neighboring Praslin, discover a wilderness area so special it earned a UNESCO World Heritage site designation. Vallée de Mai, a 48-acre relic of ancient palm forest whose headline species, the coco de mer, produces nuts suggestively reminiscent of the anatomy of human females. But also look for many other unique species including tiger chameleons, Seychelles wolf snakes (harmless), Praslin snails, sunbirds and the Seychelles black parrot.

Geologically part of Asia and politically part of Africa, the Seychelles fosters a true cultural melting pot. Of mixed Malagasy, African, Indian, Chinese and European origin, the Seychellois people speak a language — Seychellois Creole — based on French that borrows liberally from other languages. The early French influence persists despite a century and a half of British rule prior to independence in 1976.

The British administrative period is most obvious in the name of the capital, which honors Queen Victoria, and in the metal clock tower at a downtown intersection that is a replica of a similar clock tower close to Victoria Station in London. Victoria is one of the world’s least frenetic capitals, but there’s often bustle in the Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market. The fish section

LODGING

DINING

Le Domaine de L’Orangeraie Resort & Spa The resort features 63 luxurious villas, all making the most of the secluded tropical setting. The hillside spa offers a range of treatments and facilities.

Café des Arts Restaurant Located at Hotel Le Duc de Praslin, this beachside eatery specializes in seafood, blending Creole flavors with French style.

Anse Sévère, La Digue $$$$

Hotel Le Duc de Praslin, Anse Volbert, Praslin $$$

Constance Lemuria Resort Expensively renovated in 2016, this spectacular beachside resort also sports its own 18-hole championship golf course.

Marie-Antoinette Restaurant Enjoy dinner at one of the best places to sample the local Creole cuisine, including (seasonal and by preorder) fruit bat curry.

Anse Kerlan, Praslin $$$$

Beau Vallon, Victoria, Mahé $$$

Copolia Lodge Situated on the slopes of Mount Copolia above the capital, Victoria, this modest 3-star hotel boasts great views and offers an ideal base for hiking in the interior.

Snack Bellevue As the name suggests: light meals with a view.

Arrive late afternoon to enjoy the full panorama of the island and the spectacular sunset.

Victoria, Mahé $$

Nid d’Aigle, La Digue $$

JULY/AUGUST 2020 globaltravelerusa.com

73

INFO TO GO International flights arrive at Seychelles International Airport, located on the island of Mahé seven miles southeast of Victoria. Scheduled and charter flights operate to some of the other islands. Zil Air runs helicopter charters to helipads on some of the smaller islands. The main ferry company, Cat Cocos, offers scheduled services between Mahé, Praslin and La Digue. Car rental is available on Mahé and Praslin, and you can rent a bicycle on La Digue.

Big Attraction: Feeding a giant tortoise, native to Aldabra Atoll PHOTO: © BENNYMARTY DREAMSTIME.COM

74

provides a vivid window into the waters off these islands: tables packed with fresh tuna, parrotfish, octopus and shark.

The Wednesday night market at Beau Vallon, on Mahé’s west coast (a 10-minute drive from Victoria) is much more touristy but fun nonetheless. Here, 4:30–9 p.m., aromatic smoke from dozens of barbecues swathes the various food stalls. Buy a meal and a drink and take them down to the beach, where you can savor the sunset.

Mahé, Praslin and La Digue lie at the granitic heart of the Seychelles: the most populated of the 43 Inner Islands. The Outer Islands scatter loosely across an area of more than 700 miles to the southwest of Mahé. Mostly coralline and accessible by boat or — in a few cases — by light aircraft, they offer the definitive get-away-fromit-all experience.

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

Tourism in the Outer Islands is largely limited to one hotel per island, from upscale spa resorts to rustic eco-lodges. One of the most interesting of all the Outer Islands, Aldabra Atoll is inhabited only by scientists studying the unique flora and fauna. There is no airstrip, though some cruise itineraries visit the atoll, a rare opportunity to experience the “Galápagos of the Indian Ocean.” Aldabra giant tortoises are the big (literally) attractions, but the atoll boasts a wealth of other endemic species of birds, reptiles and plants. Aldabra giant tortoises have been introduced to several of the Inner Islands, most notably La Digue, where they can pose a formidable obstacle as you cycle around the island’s many bike paths.

Ultimately, the Seychelles is about beaches. The Outer Islands may have the edge in privacy (you can, if you choose, be dropped off for a few hours on an uninhabited island), but they don’t have the time-sculpted granite rocks that feature in so many Seychelles photos.

For those you need to stick to the main islands.

Visit Anse Baleine, a small beach on Mahé often near-deserted midweek (it’s popular with locals on weekends). Anse Lazio on Praslin is arguably that island’s best beach. Possibly the best beach of all — certainly the most photographed —Anse Source d’Argent on La Digue features smooth, architectural granite boulders. Just be careful to stay out of the line of people’s selfies; you could accidentally end up on Instagram.

W ELC OME

H O M E

Experience the newly redesigned rooms, suites and villas complemented by residential comfort, contemporary furnishings and legendary Peninsula service.

9 8 8 2 S O U T H S A N TA M O N I C A B O U L E VA R D, B E V E R LY H I L L S , C A 9 0 212 , U S A

T E L : + 1 310 5 51 2 8 8 8

E-MAIL: PBH@PENINSULA.COM

H O N G KO N G • S H A N G H A I • B E I J I N G • TO K YO • N E W YO R K • C H I C A G O • B E V E R LY H I L L S • PA R I S • B A N G KO K • M A N I L A Under Development LO N D O N • I S TA N B U L • YA N G O N • peninsula.com

LGBTQ+

Travel for Treatment Find safe and welcoming environments for medical procedures abroad.

BY MARK CHESNUT

W

hen Chicago resident Mark Porter realized he needed an extensive and pricey amount of dental work, he didn’t hesitate. He booked a flight to Mexico.

“I saved thousands of dollars on the procedures, and the savings basically paid for a wonderful vacation in Guadalajara,” he said.

Indeed, the idea of combining travel with medical and wellness procedures has become an increasingly appealing concept for many travelers. LGBTQ+ globetrotters are no exception, and they’ll find an array of welcoming options in a surprisingly diverse number of destinations.

The treatments available are equally varied — whether it’s dental work in Mexico, LGBTQ+-specific care services at A-P Medical Group in Las Vegas or more extensive surgical operations at facilities like Bumrungrad International Hospital in Bangkok. A writeup in the San Francisco Bay Times, an LGBTQ+ newspaper and website, highlighted Bumrungrad’s gay-friendly services, ranging from behavioral health to allergy treatment and joint replacement.

Also promoting its LGBTQ+-friendly positioning, Clinic Center in Turkey serves a diverse clientele from around the world. According to clinic representatives, gay men are likely to visit for treatments that include Vaser high-definition liposuction, rhinoplasty, hair transplant and zirconium crowns, while lesbians often sign up for breast augmentation and liposuction. Transgender visitors often go to Clinic Center, meanwhile, for breast and facial surgeries.

Choosing an appropriate facility for any procedure requires research, of course, and this is even more important for LGBTQ+ travelers looking for a safe and welcoming environment. Earlier this year, two organizations — Medical Spheres and Spheres Media — announced the launch of Gay Health News, touted as the first global gay health support platform, providing information and resources about health and medical procedures on an international level.

Word of mouth and personal recommendations are also important. “I found my dentist in Guadalajara by asking around,” said Porter. “Nowadays it’s easy to make connections in cities where you don’t live. Sometimes it’s as simple as asking a hotel concierge or the owner of an Airbnb rental who their own dentist or doctor is. Getting good recommendations can help you feel more secure. I love traveling abroad, and the benefits of getting work done when traveling makes the trips even more worthwhile.”

While thousands of patients who planned to receive medical and dental procedures abroad canceled or postponed trips due to the COVID-19 outbreak, it is likely medical tourism will again thrive once travel returns.

76

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

Care Providers: Dental procedure (top), and liposuction prep (bottom) PHOTOS: © ALEKSEY SATYRENKO - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ELENAVOLF - DREAMSTIME.COM

FOR

ALL THE MOMENTS WE STAND UP

JOE MANGANIELLO Stand Up To Cancer Ambassador

Since 2008, Major League BaseballÂŽ has supported Stand Up To Cancer in its mission to fund groundbreaking research and get treatments to patients faster than ever before.

Join us as we stand united to show our support for loved ones affected by cancer.

Visit StandUpToCancer.org/MLB

Photo By ANDREW ECCLES Stand Up To Cancer is a division of the Entertainment Industry Foundation (EIF), a 501(c)(3) charitable organization.

Major League Baseball trademarks and copyrights are used with permission of Major League Baseball. Visit MLB.com

AIPORT UPDATE

Space and Time Jewel Changi Airport entertains travelers with stunning nature, activities, shops and dining. BY MARY MELNICK

THE RAIN VORTEX, THE FOCAL POINT OF JEWEL, IS THE WORLD’S TALLEST INDOOR WATERFALL. ALTHOUGH STUNNING DURING THE DAY, VISIT THE WATERFALL AT NIGHT TO EXPERIENCE THE SPECTACULAR LIGHT AND SOUND SHOW.

Relaxation Zone: Rain Vortex and Shiseido Forest Valley PHOTO: © CHANGI AIRPORT

78

J

ewel started as a vision of being the gem of the destination as well as a much-needed expansion of Terminal 1 at Changi Airport; the airport hoped it would help boost the appeal as a stopover destination for travelers. The addition opened April 17, 2019, and has made news ever since. The glass and steel dome spans five levels filled with attractions, dining options and shops.

The Rain Vortex, the focal point of Jewel, is the world’s tallest

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

indoor waterfall. Although stunning during the day, visit the waterfall at night to experience the spectacular light and sound show.

Shiseido Forest Valley makes you feel like you left the airport and are wandering around Singapore.

Encounter plants from all over the world, with more than 900 trees and palms and about 60,000 shrubs. This indoor forest features two trails; the eastern trail takes you past rocky falls while the western trail provides a mist on your hike.

Both trails lead to Canopy Park, located at the top of Jewel, where you’ll find the perfect place to relax or play. Take a stroll through the Topiary Walk and Petal Garden or relax at one of the many charming diners. If you seek more of an adventure, head to the Mirror or Hedge mazes and see if you can find your way out. For a little more thrill, glide down the giant Discovery Slides and bounce among the trees on the Manulife Sky Nets. If bouncing isn’t your thing, walk across the Walking Sky Net or the glass Canopy Bridge and get a breathtaking view of Jewel.

All that exploring and playing is bound to work up an appetite.

Luckily, Jewel boasts more than 100 dining spots, from sit-down to fast-food to snack options. Enjoy unique, local cuisine at Swatow Kitchen or classics like Shake Shack.

If you still have time to spare — and room in your suitcase — get ready to shop ’til you drop at one of the many shops; you’ll find everything from famous designers to locally homemade brands.

Need space to get work done or to stay overnight? Don’t worry, YOTELAIR has you covered. All cabins are affordable, spacious and come with the amenities you might need in order to work or relax until your flight.

JEWEL CHANGI AIRPORT jewelchangiairport.com

An

urban resort in Los Angeles offering luxurious accommodations, California French dining, newly redesigned bar with live entertainment, spacious meeting rooms, complimentary high-speed internet, spa and salon services, fitness center and more.

SOFITEL LOS ANGELES AT BEVERLY HILLS | 8555 BEVERLY BLVD. LOS ANGELES, CA 90048 | 310-278-5444 WWW.SOFITEL-LOS-ANGELES.COM

MEDICAL TOURISM

Say

to Health

Spain’s top-ranked hospitals boast outstanding global reputations.

BY DEBRA BOKUR

S

Quality Care: Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau, Barcelona PHOTO: © DINOZZAVER - DREAMSTIME.COM

80

pain — the land of paella, flamenco and fine weather — also offers an eminent location for medical tourists seeking a wide range of treatments in top-ranked hospitals. It’s not surprising: In an analysis of the world’s best health care systems published in the 2019 edition of CEOWORLD magazine’s annual Health Care Index, Spain holds the No. 7 position out of 89 countries surveyed, a placement earned for factors ranging from quality and training of health care professionals to infrastructure and cost (for comparison, the United States sits at No. 30).

A wide range of health issues and opportunities draw foreign visitors to seek treatment in Spain. Among them are stem cell therapies along with treatment solutions related to orthopedics, dental care, assisted reproduction and weight loss. Highly regarded hospitals, doctors and surgeons also provide specialty care in arenas including organ transplants and innovative treatments within the fields of cardiology, neurology and oncology.

Overall, the national hospital network includes more than 700 hospitals and clinics. Some of the most popular facilities for medical travelers venturing to Spain for treatment are located in Madrid, Málaga and Barcelona. That’s a boon for travelers, as these cities also rank as some of the most popular destinations for leisure travel, offering a wide selection of world-class museums, restaurants, hotels, galleries and shopping. Joint Commission International-accredited hospitals worth noting by potential medical tourists include Hospitales Sanitas and Hospital Universitario de Madrid in Madrid and Centro Médico Quirónsalud Teknon and Hospital Quirónsalud in Barcelona. Other facilities with outstanding global reputations are Parc de Salut Mar, Hospital Sant Joan de Deu, Complejo Hospitalario Universitario de Albacete and Hospital Universitario Virgen de las Nieves.

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

Foreign visitors from non-European Union countries do not need visas, provided a stay is not more than 90 days in duration, and direct flight options are plentiful from North America and other parts of the world.

Organizations including Medical Stay Group can OVERALL, THE NATIONAL HOSPITAL help medical travelers NETWORK INCLUDES MORE THAN 700 coordinate services such as diagnostic testing, HOSPITALS AND CLINICS. SOME OF THE surgeons, nurses, interpretMOST POPULAR FACILITIES FOR MEDIers, drivers, apartment rentals, hotels, price CAL TRAVELERS VENTURING TO SPAIN assessments and medical FOR TREATMENT ARE LOCATED IN MAinterventions. Even tour guides can be arranged; DRID, MÁLAGA AND BARCELONA. and while hospital staffs and medical providers are generally multilingual, these types of support services can be particularly reassuring to non-Spanish speakers who attempt to navigate the intricacies and nuances of a foreign medical system.

I’ve put my wheels on trains, used bike ramps at stations, and slept in quaint B&Bs. Rental outlets, bilingual signs and bike-only trails are ubiquitous.

The infrastructure is there, and drivers are used to sharing with two wheelers.

A bike tour of Taiwan can be as strenuous or as laidback as you want it to be.

Olympians vie to be King of the Mountains In the highlands, a world-class route awaits hardcore bikers. From the Pacific, through the marble canyon of Taroko Gorge, the brutal yet beautiful KOM ascent climbs to 3,275m (10,745ft) in a mere 105km (65 miles). Among elite riders taking on this challenge in 2015 was Olympic gold medallist Lasse Norman Hansen.

PARTNER TOUR OPERATORS

Supera Tours www.superatours.com STA Travel US www.statravel.com SITA World Tours www.sitatours.com Mango Tours www.mangotours.com Majestic Vacations www.majestic-vacations.com Hana Tour USA www.hanatour.us Goway Travel www.goway.com Avanti Destinations www.avantidestinations.com Asia Getaway www.asiagetaway.com Asia Answers www.asiaanswers.com

We w h o l i v e f o r c y c l i n g n e e d t o k n o w Ta i w a n — a m u s t - v i s i t d e s t i n a t i o n f o r a d v e n t u r o u s r i d e r s .

For all ages and abilities

Unforgettable hospitality Taiwan, one of the world’s safest destinations for tourists, is also one of the friendliest. Police greet me warmly when I stop at rural stations to refill my bidon. Countryside folk press tea and yummy Taiwanese fruit on me. And everywhere I hear the phrase locals shout to offer encouragement: jiayou - “go for it!”

Year-round cycling events There’s no bad season for riding in Taiwan, but each year I mark two events in my diary. The Tour de Taiwan (www.tourdetaiwan.org.tw) is held in the first quarter. Come fall, the Taiwan Cycling Festival (http://taiwanbike.tw) encompasses the KOM race and other thrilling events.

For complete details of other highlights, biking and non-biking, see http://eng.taiwan.net.tw.

PREVIEW

Sardinia, Italy Sun-splashed and peaceful, Sardinia offers individuals, couples and families the perfect vacation retreat, whether coming from other destinations in Europe or directly from the United States.

Accommodations can include upscale seaside resorts along the coast, simple farm stays in the interior or quiet yoga retreats on hilltops overlooking the Mediterranean. There are also comfortable business hotels in Cagliari, the island’s bustling capital city.

PHOTO: Š FRANCESCO MALTINTI - DREAMSTIME.COM

globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020 8282globaltravelerusa.com JULY/AUGUST 2020

Where Business Meets Benefits

Join the Turkish Airlines Corporate Club and receive exclusive member benefits.

Business travel, meet perks. With Turkish Airlines Corporate Club membership, corporate travelers enrolled in the exclusive program receive special perks and benefits. And, there’s nothing to pay and no commitments, making this a value-added program you should join today.

FRONT END DISCOUNTS As a member of Turkish Airlines Corporate

dates for all flights to/beyond Turkey.

Club, you will receive exclusive front end

There is also no penalty for cancellation or

discounts on fares for to/beyond Turkey

no-show for almost all booking classes.

travel. There’s also the option to earn free tickets if you meet an annual flight quota and the oppo unity to earn upgrades.

TURKISH AIRLINES CORPORATE CLUB CARD With your membership card, you can check-in through business-class counters

BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE

and gain access to lounges even when flying

Ease worries about fi ing all the necessities

in economy. Additionally, you still earn Miles

for your business trip as a Turkish Airlines

in your Miles&Smiles frequent flyer account.

Corporate Club member. Enjoy an enhanced baggage allowance on international flights.

Don’t hesitate. Find out more on how

FLEXIBILITY

business meets benefits with the Turkish

As all corporate travelers know, changes

Airlines Corporate Club. Benefits vary by

happen. As a member, you will have the

country. Apply today at:

flexibility to change flight routes and

corporateclub.turkishairlines.com