umlaut wines Launch issue 2021 £4.99
THE WINE, THE WHOLE WINE AND NOTHING BUT THE WINE OF GERMANY & AUSTRIA
Online wine tastings here to stay
RIESLING WINE FIT M o r e IN THE FOR A than just P I N K QUEEN a drink Back of the Nett
The grammar of wine
HALLO from james
Welcome to the la unch issue of umlaut wines, a digital consumer managzine for those who en joy wine from Germany and Austria in the UK. Each issue will bring a consumer angle to the wines avaiable here an d highlight those worth seek ing out in Germany and Aust ria when visiting the copu ntries. Feel free to get in touch with your own op inions and likes of German a nd Austrian wines. I hope you enjoy this launch issue and here’s to many more to com e. Prost
Editorial / Design / Production / Sales umlautwines@gmail.com + 44 (0) 7443 598925 Contributor: Stuart Peskett SAMPLES: James Graham, Editor, umlaut wines, 259 Sydenham Road Croydon, Surrey, UK CR0 2ET @umlautwinesmag All rights reserved, No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the copyright owner. Multiple copying of the contents of the magazine without prior written Material sent to the editor, whether commissioned or freely submitted, is provided at the contributor’s own risk. umlaut wines cannot be held responsible for loss of damage however cause. The opinions and views expressed by authors and contributors within umlaut wines are not necessarily those of the editor or umlaut magazine. We are unable to guarantee the bona fideas of any advertiser. © umlaut wines 2021
2 umlaut
umlaut
4 Wine fit for a Queen 6 Their majesties pay tribute 8 Wine 850 years in the making 12 Back of the Nett 14 The grammar of wine 16 Quite a bright idea 18 V for vegan 18 Happy 586th birthday 19 “It’s Austrian Wine Time” 20 Aldi: Supermarket of the Year
wines
Launch issue
21 Down the River 22 More than just a drink 23 New Sekt classifications 24 Hooch made with Grapes 25 Taking wine’s temperature 26 Blown away in 2020 27 Online wine tastings here to stay 29 265 Years of Riedel Glass 32 IWSC: Top 15 German white wines
38 IWSC: Trophy profile - Max Mann 40 IWSC: Top Austrian wines 46 In the Pink 47 Top Rosé Wine 48 A Century of Henkell adverts 50 Spreading the word 52 German wines on line 54 Punkt: Funf Minuten Quiz
umlaut 3
o f t i f e Win M
The Victoria
4 umlaut
Monument
any of us know that the current British royal family is German by ancestry. Through Queen Victoria’s veins flowed pure German blood as both sides of her family were German: her grandfather was King George III, and her father, Prince Edward, Duke of Kent, was George’s fourth son. Her mother was Victoria of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld, a German princess. For the first three years of her life, historians say she spoke only in German. So what could be more appropriate than one of Germany’s most renowned vineyards being given the majestic name ‘Queen Victoriaberg’. It was sparked by her love for good Riesling wine. Together with her German-born
or
A QUEEN
husband, Prince Albert, Queen Victoria visited Hochheim in 1845 and was invited by the town fathers to a wine tasting in the “most beautiful and best vineyard” in the area. Georg Michael Papstmann, who owned the vineyard at that time, was granted the favour by the English court in 1850 of naming his vineyard “Queen Victoriaberg”. On the occasion of the Queen’s 35th birthday, on May 24, 1854, the proud winegrower unveiled the Victoria Monument in the middle of the 5 ha vineyard. The coat of arms of the Queen of England still adorns the label in neo-Gothic style and is proof of the special favour bestowed on this vineyard. To this day, the Riesling of the Victoriaberg
has been savoured by the English royal family on many occasions. One is amused The wine is currently produced at the Joachim Flick Winery, located in the 700-year-old “Straßenmühle” in an idyllic secluded location in the picturesque village of Wicker, the gateway to the Rheingau just a stone’s throw away from the vibrant metropolis of Frankfurt
Prince Charles enjoying a wine named after his great-great-great-grandmother
umlaut 5
Their majesties pay tribu O
n the occasion of International Women’s Day in March, Germany’s wine majesties paid tribute to women from the local wine industry. Eva Lanzerath, the reigning German Wine Queen and her Princesses, Anna Löffler and Eva Müller emphasised the special achievements of women in all areas of the wine industry. “It wouldn’t work without them,” all three agreed. 1. What do you think of International Women’s Day and why is it so important? Anna Löffler: “Since there is still a long way to go to global equality for women, International Women’s Day is very important! I especially think of women who are still oppressed today, but also of all the strong women who stand up for our rights and have fought and paved the way for equality for women.“ Eva Lanzerath: “On International Women’s Day, I think about what we women have achieved in recent years. We have surpassed ourselves and I hope we will continue to fight for equality in the future and achieve a lot together.” Eva Müller: “I think of women’s rights and the position of women in society. In my job, I often meet men who don’t take me seriously and that’s annoying!” 2. What do you think of #womeninwine?
6 umlaut
Anna Löffler: “Especially in the wine industry, women often act in the background and are not even allowed to vinify in some countries today. “That’s why I am very happy that we have so many self-confident women in the wine industry today who tackle their dreams and make them come true to keep the wine industry moving forward!“ Eva Lanzerath:“For me, the #womeninwine stands for all women in the wine industry, because they stand behind their passion and their calling with all their
ute to women in wine their special commitment in various areas, such as Michele Obama, Sophie Scholl, Sophie Passmann, JK Rowling, Beyoncé, Luisa Neubauer, Vera Birkenbihl, Mai Thi Nguyen, Marie Curie, Jancis Robinson and many more. “But most of all I admire the independent women around me whose energy and commitment I experience.“ Eva Lanzerath:“I am enthusiastic about Meghan Markle. “She is a strong woman who stands up for people and women worldwide and fights against racism.” Eva Müller: “Within the wine industry, I am clearly enthusiastic about Julianne Eller and outside of it above all Ruth Bader Ginsburg and Helene Fischer.” hearts and dedication.” Eva Müller: I have to think directly of Vinissima and numerous successful winemakers such as Anette Closheim, Sabrina Becker, Jana Hauck, the wine sisters, Julianne Eller, ... “ 3. Which woman is particularly enthusiastic about her commitment and her work and is a role model for you? Anna Löffler: “There are many female personalities who are characterised by
Eva Lanzerath (centre), German Wine Queen and her princesses Anna Löffler (left) and Eva Müller (right)
umlaut 7
Wine 850 years in the making region. It can AL PT M KA r ve ri be nu Da e th in te wine esta Schloss Gobelsburg is the oldest n is celebrating its ai m do e bl ra ne ve e th ar ye is Th ntury. trace itself back to the 12th ce 850th year of winemaking.
C
istercian monks, who spread throughout Europe from Burgundy in the 12th century, acquired their first vineyards in 1171, and have had a lasting impact on viticulture in Austria over the past 850 years. Schloss Gobelsburg has been operated by Eva and Michael Moosbrugger since 1996. Over the centuries, monks planted and cultivated vineyards in the very best sites in
Austria. Today, Schloss Gobelsburg focuses on the Danube appellations’ regionally typical wines of protected origin, in the three categories Gebietswein (regional wine), Ortswein (village wine) and Riedenwein (from individual vineyards). The estate’s vineyards include parcels in world-famous sites such as Ried Heiligenstein or Ried lamm. In the last 850 years, sustainable viti-
Continues over
8 umlaut
The wine on the Tyne 0191 563 4976
“
Ruth & Kelvyn of Guest Wines bring their own unique style and refreshing approach to inspire others to take up their own personal wine journey. Their enthusiasm and passion for wine is just what the North East needs. Oz Clarke
“
www.guestwines.com
culture was never a matter of fashion for the monks but always remained a matter close to their hearts. The vineyards are looked after with care and attention, from pruning to foliage canopy management. In autumn, when leaves are turning golden in October and November, the clusters are harvested by hand and carefully transported to the cellar in small boxes. In the cellar, the grapes are once more critically and painstakingly inspected and, if need be, sorted yet again before being gently pressed. In addition to the regionally typical wines of the Kamptal, other diverse vinous specialties are created in the cellars of Schloss Gobelsburg. Since Langenlois has developed into the epicentre of top-quality Austrian sparkling wine production over the past few decades,Schloss Gobelsburg has become a specialist in Austrian sparkling wine. In addition to the classic Brut Reserve, a Blanc de Blancs, a Brut Rosé and a vintage Sekt are offered at Schloss Gobelsburg. The castle was first mentioned in a contract dated 1074 in relation to Azzo de Gobatsburich, Earl of Kuenring. The monastery of Zwettl, also a Kuenringer foundation of 1138, in the northern parts of the province Niederösterreich is today the owner of the property. But until the beginning
10 umlaut
of the 13th century, the fortress remained in the hands of the Kuenringer family but changed hands until 1740 with as many as 19 different families on the estate and castle Gobelsburg. The last aristocratic owner - Freiherr Achaz Ehrenreich von Hohenfeld - instigated the alterations of the Renaissance manor house into a handsome Baroque chateau in the first half of the 18th century. On September 17, 1740 Ehrenreich sold the property to the monastery of Zwettl, which had a manor estate in Kammern. With the purchase, important vineyards on the Gobelsburg side (Steinsetz,
Haide, Redling) were added to the existing vineyards on Heiligenstein, Gaisberg, Renner and Lamm. In 784 the old Manor in Kammern burned down and the two properties were brought together. At the start of the 19th century, the cellar capacity was reported to be about 85,000 litres of wine; partly brought to the monastery and sold there, partly sold from the castle. The wines were named either after their origin (Nussberger, Zöbinger, Gobelsburger) or for their use (Messwein, Conventwein, etc).
serves in the wine cellar back to the last century were gone. Father Bertrand Baumann – a monk of the monastery took over in 1958. He was an extraordinary winemaker. He not only achieved to establish the ‘altar wine’ as an Austrian Classic, but he also established the winery as the leading winery of the area. The wines of the library still show today the greatness of his skill.
Until 1930 the wines of the winery in Nussdorf, Vienna were also brought to Schloss Gobelsburg. Due to the difficult economic situation in the late twenties the property was then sold to the monastery Schotten in Vienna. The Manor, which is very similar in form and appearance to Schloss Gobelsburg, still exists.
Since February 1996 the estate has been managed by Eva and Michael Moosbrugger. Michael originates from a hotel family in Lech but turned to winemaking after university and hotel business. In 2006. Michael was awarded with the title ‘Winemaker of the year’ by wine magazine Falstaff. In 2007 followed the ‘Golden Glass’ by the Swedish Food & Wine magazine. the first time for an Austrian winery.
Between World War One and Two. the castle was used as a summer camp for apprentices. During World War Two, French soldiers were imprisoned and the castle was left devastated in 1945 and all the re-
In 2009, 2010, 2011, 2013, 2014 and 2019 the winery was awarded with the titles ‘Top 100 Winery of the year’ and in 2009 ‘Champion of Value’ by the Wine & Spirits Magazine.
umlaut 11
12 umlaut
Back of the
NETT
T
he Nett winery was founded in 1838 in Duttweiler / Pfalz in southwest of Germany. Today it is run by the fifth generation of the NETT family.
Christian Nett, born in 1981, is master winemaker, vitculturist, CEO and mastermind of the business. In 2017 a new winery was constructed with five sites having been transformed into a single all-in-one.
soils with fine vein lines of lime which sets the character of the wines.
Since 2011, some of the best vineyards have been exclusively farmed by horsepower. NETT has been a registered organic producer, following organic farming practices since 2015 and is working sustainably. NETT is intensively co-operating with the specialised trade and is very popular, not only in Germany. His wines are highly awarded every year.
Nett’s great passion are the Pinots, cultivating his own Pinot blanc and Pinot gris from old vines. Beside some The cuvées and special creations excellent Riesling and Pinot one can even find a high quality Merlot, Shiraz, enjoy particular popularity, such as Cabernet and Lagrein. The vineyard en- Glaube- Liebe-Hoffnung Riesling dry, PARANOIA and NETTSWERK joys over 10m of potent loess and clay
A winery founded when Queen Victoria had been on the throne for just one year is still going strong
umlaut 13
THE GRAMMA With the [semicolon] project, Mautern, Austria-based winemakers Katharina Salzgeber and Nikolaus Saahs trace the potential of Gewürztraminer and Riesling as grape varieties.
H
ow do the commonly known characteristics react if a different approach to harvest timing, grape processing and vinification is taken? This is an entirely new brand of natural wines, based on biodynamically-farmed grapes from Nikolaihof. First releases will be a skin fermented Riesling, Gewürtztraminer and a Pet-Nat, aged in neutral wood without fining, stabilisation, filtration or addition of sulphur during the winemaking process or at bottling. In orthography, the semicolon is the only punctuation mark not to bow to any rule in terms of its use and interpretation. It much rather appeals to the wit of those who apply it as well as those who ‘read’ it in order to reveal a meaning – and so do the semicolon wines: they strip off the stays (of the commonly known) and invite the drinker to allow a new, unswayed perspective. A further side glance at the semicolon as a punctuation mark reveals it’s at once separating (the full stop, creating precedents and weighting them accordingly) and connecting (the comma, stringing together and binding) quality. It separates and splits, thereby empowering the respective content. At the same time, it frames all individual parts within a larger context and thus
14 umlaut
AR OF WINE brings them together again. This again relates to the very essence of the project: the absence of sulphur, finings and stabilisation procedures of any kind encourages the wines’ development and brings each phase into focus, all of them as parts of the big picture. The wines are in motion; everything is allowed, nothing is required. In this approach to wine, the journey is the reward. Or let’s, very freely, interpret German performance artist Joseph Beuys: combine movement and chaos so that new forms can accrue.
Gewürztraminer (L 2019); 11,0 % vol 100% mash; eight months of aging in used wooden barrels without finings, stabilisation, filtration and addition of sulphur Riesling (L 2019); 12,0% vol 30% mash, 70% must; eight months of aging in used wooden barrels without finings, stabilisation, filtration and addition of sulphur Scato (L 2019/1); 11,5% vol 70% Grüner Veltliner, 30% Zweigelt; Méthode artisanale without finings, stabilisation, filtration and addition of sulphur
Orange/Natural white 0.75 L ABV 11.5% €28.00 Organic , biodynamic wine, Vegan wine Gewürztraminer 100%
umlaut 15
a e t i u Q T
bright IDEA
he estate, founded in 1998 by Johannes Gebeshuber, is located in the historic town of Gumpoldskirchen, thirty kilometres south of Vienna in the Thermenregion, a winegrowing region named
16 umlaut
for the local thermal springs. Johannes has focussed precisely upon those grape varieties that have made Gumpoldskirchen famous and held in high regard such as the white varieties Zierfan-
dler and Rotgipfer, as well as the reds Sankt Laurent and Pinot Noir. Johannes Gebeshuber founded his estate in 1998, as a young, dynamic – and above all, curious – self-taught individual. At this juncture he owned between two and three hectares of vines – a family possession – and vinifed the wines in the cellar belonging to his in-laws. It was not long before his operation grew to eight hectares with a total of twenty-fve grape varieties, all planted as monovarietal parcels yielding sparkling wines, still wines and sweet wines. He soon came to concentrate on the essentials, on those wines that were truly most important to him and made the most sense to him. “Quite a bright idea,” he comments, looking back contentedly upon the decision he made then, to reduce the number of hectares under cultivation and to no longer let himself be led by the market. There are forty-two distinct parcels spread out over twenty-fve hectares under cultivation. The individual vineyards bear the resonant names Modler (Zierfandler), Laim (Rotgipfer), Viereck (Pinot Noir) and Glas (Sankt Laurent). The oldest vines have today reached the venerable age of eighty years, while the youngest are seventeen. The result is wines of notable composure and style, which represent the spearhead of the Thermenregion. Puristic, clear, refned – just like the winegrower Gebeshuber. “I was not as loud as some of the others.” says Johannes. Born in 1968, he speaks with certainty about his develop-
ment as a winegrower. Not born to the plough, for his parents had met during their student days in Vienna. Also, as a self-taught winegrower he was obliged to fnd his own path at frst, cope with inevitable setbacks and set off in new directions. Johannes’s father is a structural analyst, and was part of the team that designed the Vienna Underground; he had bought the frst vineyards as an investment. Johannes never had in mind, though, to follow in his father’s footsteps – but nevertheless he decided to study economics –while along with this he began to become more and more intensely interested in wine. One of his frst voyages of discovery in this feld led him to Burgundy, where he was most highly impressed by a white grand cru Corton-Charlemagne. And in the realm of red wine as well, he was inspired by the treasures of Burgundy: In Vosne-Romanée he tasted a particularly dark – but for this, even more elegant – Pinot Noir, a Richebourg from the cult domain Ann Gros. At the beginning, Johannes saw himself confronted with great challenges, because he recognised that the representative wines Zierfandler and Rotgipfer frst had to fnd their way back in to the culinary culture of the Thermenregion. “Looking at wine lists, I saw all the other winegrowing regions there – almost exclusively – Wachau, Burgenland and Südsteiermark. “You could only fnd Zierfandler and Rotgipfer at the Heurigen back then.”
umlaut 17
V for vegan
H
enkell, the most exported German sparkling wine brand, started the year full of elegance and some fresh news. In line with the increasingly popularity of vegan products, Henkell products are now officially vegan-certified. This means that the entire Henkell range is certified by the internationally recognised V-Label. As a global leader in sparkling wine, Henkell has its finger on the pulse: more and more consumers all over the world are
embracng a vegan lifestyle without sacrificing enjoyment. Henkell is responding to this consumer trend by officially labelling all its products with the V-Label. This well-known quality seal for vegan and vegetarian products is an internationally recognised and protected brand that provides more transparency. “Henkell sparkling wines were already vegan, but thanks to the V-Label certification, it will be much easier for consumers to identify,” explains Jan Rock, head of corporate communications Henkell Freixenet.
Happy 586th birthday
W
ines of Germany marked March 13 as the official birthday of Riesling, giving wine lovers an annual occasion to celebrate this popular grape varietal. The date was selected from the cellar log of Count Katzenelnbogen near the Rheingau region from March, 1435.
18 umlaut
Riesling was born in Germany near the Rheingau wine region on March 13, 1435. Wines of Germany is encouraging Riesling fans around the world to celebrate the versatility and unique characteristics of the variety with a Riesling toast, with the hashtag #RieslingBirthday on social media.
“IT’S AUSTRIAN WINE TIME”
s e l a s s t s o bo
T
he Austrian Wine Marketing Board (Austrian Wine) has increased the sales of Austrian wine in the UK thanks to its biggest retail campaign in years. More than 150 wine retailers advertised their wares with the slogan “It‘s Austrian Wine Time” and enjoyed a significant boost in sales. Retailers in the UK used #austrianwinetime to promote their range of Austrian wines. As part of an initiative by Austrian Wine, at the start of February, 50 wine merchants launched a large-scale advertising campaign for Austrian wines in the UK – mostly via digital channels. During more than 80 online wine-tasting sessions, they introduced hundreds of wine enthusiasts to Austrian wines, as well as ensuring that the topic remained in the public eye for weeks through their social media channels. Many of the merchants also used price campaigns to boost sales, or created special wine packages to enable customers to experience the diversity of Austria as a winegrowing nation. Some merchants
also added new Austrian winegrowers to their portfolios, something that the CEO of Austrian Wine, Chris Yorke, was particularly thrilled about. He said: “The purpose of ‘It’s Austrian Wine Time’ was to increase demand for our outstanding wines in our key export market of the UK, as well as getting our winegrowers onto new dealer listings. Judging by the feedback from the wine merchants, the campaign has been a great success!” The dealers’ response to the campaign has been unanimously positive, with some reporting double- or even triple-digit growth in sales volume. Better still, this initiative has meant that many customers have discovered multiple new facets of Austrian wine – including the fact that Austrian winegrowers also make some excellent red wines. Austrian Wine is rewarding the three best campaigns in UK – Lola Provisions, Urban Craft Wines and Cornelius Beer & Wine – with a trip to Austria’s winegrowing regions in September of this year.
Against all expectations, Austria’s wine exports increased again in 2020: volume rose to 67.4 million litres (+6.3%) while revenue reached a new high of 187.3 million euros (+2.4%). Alongside the main export market of Germany, the other key markets of Switzerland and the Netherlands also showed upward trends. While the USA and Asia declined, the monopoly markets of Scandinavia and Canada showed particularly strong growth.
umlaut 19
Aldi wins Wine Supermarket of the Year
The International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC)
T
he role of the supermarket as the gatekeeper to consumers’ drinking choices cannot be underestimated. As was proven by recent lockdowns, it was supermarkets that became the centre of people’s focus for food and drink choices. For many, it’s the first interaction they have when choosing a drink. Plus, it could be argued that supermarkets carry a burden of responsibility in their relationship with the modern customer. Drink choices need to be varied and interesting, match several different price points, support local and international suppliers
20 umlaut
and producers, be sustainable and provide a chance for customer education. Over the past couple of decades, the variety of wine that supermarkets are expected to supply to their customer base has changed massively. No longer can bottles be put on a shelf and left for shoppers to randomly choose based on the back label. Now people demand variety and style; they want to know more about where products have come from and what they taste like. The winner of this award was chosen because “the innovation achieved while keeping budget in mind on such a wide scale is second to none.” The style and range of buying demonstrated clever and imaginative choices – the panel being particularly impressed with options such as a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape and an own-label organic Champagne. In addition, the panel was impressed by the creation of a home delivery service, staff education and a huge commitment to being sustainable. This supermarket also set up a wine school to educate their increasingly engaged customers, delivering online courses with tips and jargon-free information. This was done while maintaining their core value of affordability and own-label branding. Therefore, the IWSC panel was unanimous in awarding the Wine Supermarket of the Year to Aldi.
DOWN
the river T
he best of river cruising and English wines have come together to create a Danube cruise, with the award-winning, family-run AmaWaterways and leading wine producer Chapel Down.
Created by Rachel Tredwell of Not Just Travel, this 7-night experience, aboard the 162 guest AmaCerto, cruises the Melodies of the Danube itinerary, departing November 13 2021. This celebration of wine features enhanced epicurean experiences and will be hosted by a wine expert from Chapel Down, as guests cruise from Budapest, Hungary, to Vilshofen, Germany passing through Austria’s picturesque wine producing Wachau Valley.
On the special cruise in November, Chapel Down will bring hand-selected wines on board to serve during a gala meal, and will conduct wine tastings, where guests will learn about winemaking and the wines themselves. All of this is included in the price of the cruise. Guests booking via Not Just Travel will also enjoy an exclusive intimate dinner with Chapel Down’s wine host in AmaCerto’s specialty restaurant, The Chef’s Table, and a £400 per stateroom saving. This unique cruise starts from £2,489 per person including free flights from selected UK airports and overseas transfers
AmaWaterways run some 60 themed wine cruises per year – this is the first time an English winery is hosted on a cruise. The award-winning ships offer the luxury of a boutique hotel, docking in the heart of grand capitals and fairytale villages to allow guests to enjoy moving freely throughout on or off the ship. While on board, guests get to savour locally-sourced cuisine and relax as extraordinarily passionate crew ensures every mile is travelled safely creating cherished holiday memories with family and friends.
umlaut 21
More than just a drink Wine culture in Germany named an intangible cultural heritage “Wine Culture in Germany” was included in the national register of intangible cultural heritage in March on the recommendation of the expert committee of the German Commission for UNESCO at the Conference of Ministers of Culture. This was based on an application submitted by the German Wine Academy (DWA) in October 2019 to the responsible secretariat for World Heritage in Rhineland-Pfalz at the Ministry of Science, Further Education and Culture.
The reasoning also stressed that the wine culture in Germany includes social aspects, linguistics, crafts and cultural landscape as well as festivals and customs. It shapes the rhythm of life of many people and therefore often contributes to local identity, especially in the wine-growing regions.
“We are overjoyed and, together with all the supporters of wine culture in Germany, are very happy about this decision,” said the managing director of the German Wine Academy, Monika Reule. “This honours the achievements of The Committee of Experts is honouring wine culture in the people who bring wine culture to life and develop Germany as an open, lively it further. We are sure that and adaptable cultivation with the inclusion in the of a tradition that is firmly anchored in general areas of national register of intangible cultural heritage, these society.
22 umlaut
efforts to preserve our wine as a cultural asset along with its cultural landscapes, will gain even greater public awareness and the appreciation they deserve.“ From the beginning, the application of the German Wine Academy was supported by the State of Rhineland-Pfalz through the Ministry of Economics, Transport, Agriculture and Viticulture and was advised by the Ministry of Science, Further Education and Culture. In addition, the German Wine Academy is especially grateful for the support of so many people who are actively involved in shaping wine culture nationwide, said Reule. This broad support was certainly one of the decisive factors for the success of the application.
germany news LONELY HEARTS
New Sekt classifications The VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter), Germany’s association of elite wine producers, has created a new classification for Germany’s sparkling wines - the VDP.SEKT.STATUT. Ratified early in early 2021, it applies the association’s high still wines quality standards to sparkling wines. Only sekts that pass the association’s strict quality criteria and testing, akin to the tough regulations in Champagne, will be allowed to bear the VDP. Sektsiegel, the VDP’s seal of approval for sekt. There are two standards
of sekt - VDP. SEKT and VDP. SEKT.PRESTIGE. Traditional bottle fermentation is obligatory for both. Vintage sekts must be granted at least 24 months (VDP. SEKT) or 36 months (VDP. SEKT.PRESTIGE) on the lees. Grand sekts may also mature well beyond those minimum guidelines. VDP’s strict production regulations will also apply for the production of sekt base wines. A dedicated VDP specification guide has also been developed to provide other sekt parameters.
WLTM I like my women the way I like my kebab. Found by surprise after a drunken night out and covered in too much tahini. Before long I’ll have discarded you on the pavement of life, but until then you’re the perfect complement to a perfect evening. Man, 32. GSOH. Box 1993. Female. Your buying me dinner doesn’t mean I’ll have sex with you. I probably will have sex with you, though. Honesty not an issue with opportunistic male, 38. Box 1997. umlaut wines WLTM advertisers wishing to reach customers in the UK & Ireland who sell German & Austrian wine. Great rates/good marketing plans on offer. To reach more customers, please contact sales at umlautwines@gmail.com. Mature gentleman, 62, aged well, noble grey looks, fit and active, sound mind and unfazed by the fickle demands of modern society seeks mature gentlewoman with own teeth. Box 2000, Bald, short, fat and ugly male, 53, WLTM short-sighted woman with tremendous sexual appetite. Box 1999.
umlaut 23
hooch made with grapes Sturm (storm in English) is neither wine nor juice, but a very alcoholic in-between only sold for a short period of time in the early autumn. As it is Sturmzeit (zeit = time), it is something to keep an eye out for in Vienna and wine-growing areas of Austria. This drink is very popular in Vienna during the autumn. It’s a very young wine, or rather a fermented grape juice, available during the harvest for about a month from late September to mid-October. The taste is fruity and refreshing. It comes exclusively from grapes that have been harvested and processed in Austria. Introduction to the market may take place between August 1 and December 31 of the
24 umlaut
respective vintage year, as long as the product is in a state of fermentation. Fermentation may, however, be retarded or interrupted during the course of production, then introduced once more before release to the consumer. The term Sturm takes its name from the stormy cloudiness of the still-fermenting beverage. Official areas of origin for Sturm are the winegrowing areas Weinland, Steiererland and Bergland. The only drawback of Sturm is that it can’t be stored for a long time. Because of the intense fermentation process, the bottle can simply explode if you seal it. Thus, the drink must be consumed within a few days or a bit longer if equipped with a special cap that lets the air through.
#LenzTipps: TAKing WINE’s temperature T
he right drinking temperature is very important, because the wine must not be too warm nor too cold. Several factors play a role, such as the quality level of the wine. A wine that is too cold is closed and generally rather restrained, while a wine that is too warm is alcoholic. Often, due to the warm wine, disturbing tones can be detected in the nose. Ideal drinking temperatures: Sparkling wine, Sekt 5-9°C Simple white wines 7-9°C Rosé wines 7-12°C Rich, bouquet-rich white wines (late harvest, selection), summer wines 10-12°C Edelsweet wines (berry selection, ice wines, dried berry selection) 12-14°C Light to full-bodied red wines 14-16°C Rich, bouquet-rich red wines
16-18°C
Important tips: Serve the wine a little bit colder than too warm, as the wine in the glass heats up quickly. In winter, the white wines can be drunk a little warmer, while the red wines can be served cooler in summer. the younger and lighter the red wine. the cooler it can be served. If red wines is still clearly too cool, then pouring into a warm rinsed carafe helps. Source: WEINKELLEREI LENZ MOSER Lenz Moser Straße 13495 Rohrendorf bei Krems Austria
umlaut 25
O
nline retailer Honest Grapes has been blown away with the stunning 2018 Grosses Gewachs releases from Germany, with some astonishing wines from from trailblazers Clemens Busch in the Mosel and Rainer Schnaitmann near Stuttgart. They caught up with Rita Busch to see if Germany can continues its incredible run of form with the 2020 vintage. “The wine year 2020 was not easy for us,” begins Rita, “like so many other things that happened during this year. After an extremely hot and dry summer the vines had been a bit stressed, but still looking ok. With the rain in September the ripeness of
blown away in 2020
the grapes went very fast, so we had to start picking in middle of September. 10 years before we would say: Never start before middle of October!”
Mosel Marienburg The Marienburg Hill in the Mosel, where Clemens Busch coaxes some of the greatest Rieslings “The picking had to be done very carefully, because there is some damage from hail and sunburn. And now in the end some botrytis (noble-rot). The pickers had to pick out all the bad parts of the grapes to
26 umlaut
be sure, that finally the wine will have no bad influence of those berries. But they are working very well and do a great job. Now we can say, that the quantity and also the quality of the grapes are better then expected. That means we are looking for another good vintage of Clemens Busch Riesling.”
Online wine tastings
here to stay
N
ecessity is the mother of invention. This also applies to the increasingly popular world of online wine tastings. Before the corona pandemic, who would have believed that wine lovers would one day have fun meeting a wine producer for a tasting in front of the computer screen? The German Wine Institute (DWI) believes that the online wine tastings are here to stay. Numerous businesses see it as a new and exciting opportunity to present their wines to many interested people simultaneously whilst giving news from the cellar and vineyard. At the same time, wine lovers are grateful for the enjoyable infotainment offer - especially during the Covid lockdowns. Particularly special for the participants is that they get very personal insights into winemaking and the varied life of the winemakers. Thanks to better technology and with increasing experience, the presentations have become highly professional.
Co-hosts or film clips provide variety. Sometimes the entertainment value is also increased by cooking food live whilst hosting culinary tastings, or in combination with literary lectures and musical interludes. Numerous businesses or clubs also use it as an opportunity for a virtual, sociable evening with their employees or members.
Online wine Due to the Covid restrictions, wine fairs have already moved online, such as the DWI's wine and tourism fair “WeinTour” or the Palatinate (Pfalz) wine fair “Wein am Dom” in April of this year, as well as entire wine festivals which have also been celebrated online. Since March, the DWI has been running a monthly online wine seminar covering all 13 German wine-growing regions. Three typical regional wines are tasted and discussed with the participants in the German language.
www.guestwines.com
265 YEARS OF RIEDEL GLASS
28 umlaut
T
he history of the Riedel family is just as animated as the history of Europe, and what’s more it is inseparably linked with it. In 1756, Mozart is born, the first wine region in Portugal is registered and Casanova escapes from the Doge’s Palace in Venice. In this bygone age Maria Theresa ruled as Empress of the Austrian empire and in Europe there were signs of an impending storm. During the Seven Years’ War Austria-Hungary tried to win back Silesia and the battles in which the great powers were also involved shook the whole continent. In the following years governments across Europe forged ahead with agricultural modernisation and industrial development in order to get the economy moving again. In 1756 Bohemia was a part of the Habsburg Monarchy. Johann Leopold Riedel started the story of this dynasty, which to this day remains inseparably connected with glass. The Riedel company managed to withstand the end of the monarchy, the social upheavals of the newly established Czechoslovakia Republic, and the effects of the global economic crisis through skill and creativity. After the Second World War the Riedel family was dispossessed, lost all their property in Bohemia, all their factories and the entirety of their private assets. Walter Riedel, eighth generation of the company, was imprisoned in Russia for ten years. The future prospects seemed to have evaporated. But the story played out differently thanks to the enormous courage and effort of Walter Riedel. It is his legacy that the bohemian Riedel tradition began anew, in Austria - Kufstein Tyrol. The rest is history…
11 generations of Riedels:
1
st Generation: Even before Johann Leopold Riedel (third generation) had set up the first entrepreneurial glassworks thus establishing the tradition, his
grandfather Johann Christoph Riedel (born in 1672), “Great grandfather Riedel”, and the first generation travelled around Europe as a glass merchant.
2 3
nd Generation: Johann Carl Riedel (1701-1781) continued manufacturing and decorating hollow glassware.
rd Generation: Johann Leopold Riedel (1726-1800) has gone down in history as the founder of the entrepreneurial dynasty. On May 17 1756 he put the first Waldglas works into operation.
4
th Generation: Anton Leopold Riedel (1761-1821) expanded his father’s business, as well as consolidating and enlarging it. The product range was transformed. It was no longer focused on plate glass, but much more on luxury articles. This led to the development of new and lucrative sectors: the production of hollow glass and refinement through surface finishing, and the production of chandelier crystal.
5
th Generation: Franz Xaver Anton Riedel (1786-1844) was an engraver and glass cutter of considerable talent and craftsmanship. He was able, for the first time in the history of glassmaking, to melt different colors of glass: two fluorescent colors – yellow and green. The two colours were named Anna Yellow and Anna Green after his daughter.
6
th Generation: The son of his brother, Josef Riedel, was employed as an assistant at the age of 14. In 1840 at the age of 24 Josef married his cousin Anna, Franz Xaver Riedel’s daughter. Josef Riedel the Elder (1816-1894) not only showed great talent, but he was also lucky to have lived at the start of the industrial age. He has gone down in history as the “Glass King of the Jizera Mountains”.
Continues over
umlaut 29
Josef Riedel the Elder left the Waldglas works and shifted production to the valley. He took advantage of the newly opened train line in 1875. It provided access to the most important sales markets of the industrialized world and laid the foundations for further expansion of his business. His first wife Anna died at the age of 36. His son, from his second marriage to Johanna Clementine Neuwinger, took the Riedel dynasty into its seventh generation.
7
th Generation: Josef Anton Riedel the Younger (1862-1924) was a gifted chemist and extremely talented engineer. As a mechanical engineer, he developed the finishing and automatization of the production of glass beads and registered numerous patents for this.
8
th Generation: Walter Riedel (1895-1974) inherited his father’s talents. He brought about many technical developments in the glass industry and came up with numerous inventions, such as spinnable glass fibers, signal colors, reflectors, elaborate laboratory glasses and much more. In 1944 the German Ministry of Aviation set up a secret project called “Tonne”, a ground-based system of air reconnaissance using radar. At the time the monitors used for this measured a maximum diameter of 38 cm, however Walter Riedel and his glass engineers were able to double both the dimensions, and as a result also the resolution. They produced a monitor with a diameter of 76 cm – a real global revelation at the time. Walter Riedel recognised the potential of this invention and secured the rights to use the development for civil purposes. How-
30 umlaut
ever, this plan was thwarted by the Russian occupying forces. In May 1945, the scientist Walter Riedel was arrested and conscripted. This ended the Bohemian Riedel family history. After the Second World War the family was dispossessed, lost all their property, all their factories and the entirety of their private assets. Walter Riedel finally returned in 1955 from imprisonment. In 1956, some 200 years after the founding of the first Waldglas works in Bohemia - the new Riedel story was started up in Kufstein, Austria. With the support of the Swarovski family, Walter Riedel and his son Claus took over the ailing Tirol glassworks. A hand-blown glass production firm – as it was before in Bohemia – was established. Walter Riedel represents both the Bohemian past and the start into a new future in Austria.
9
th Generation: Claus Josef Riedel (1925-2004) He was a great visionary. Thanks to his considerable artistic talent and his extraordinary feel for form and proportion, he came up with a pioneering invention by defining the wine friendly wine glass. This revolutionary move defined him as the “father of the modern wineglass”. Claus J. Riedel was the first in the history of glass who could determine the interplay between form, size and rim diameter of a glass for the optimal enjoyment of wine. His glasses had a long stem and smooth, undecorated thin-blown bowls. In the 1950s and 1960s they were awarded numerous design prizes. In 1973 he created the pioneering innovation whose discovery was to once again turn the name Riedel into a leader in the world of glass: the first line dedicated to wine-enjoyment. They are
known all across the world today under the name Sommeliers.
1
0th Generation: Georg Josef Riedel (born 1949) used his world vision to take Riedel glass to global success. In as early as 1979 he recognised the importance of the American market and founded a subsidiary. In 1986 he introduced the first machine-made glass based on wine varieties in history – Vinum! With Vinum Riedel has been able to turn the philosophy of the functional wine glass developed by the company into something affordable and therefore also well-known around the world. Georg Riedel took over the German
M
Nachtmann company in 2004, laying the foundations for further growth. Today Riedel has a 97% export rates. Georg Riedel, in his long career as a glassmaker and glass designer, has shaped many functional glasses, each specifically designed to enhance the enjoyment of the liquid flow. As the leading mind behind varietal specific wine glasses, Riedel strongly believes that a finely tuned glass shape enhances the perception of all aromatic beverages. His latest creation - Riedel Winewings (2020) and Riedel Winewings SL(2021) – continues to push the boundaries of the conventional wine glass shape with its striking design.
The current generation
aximilian Josef Riedel (born 1977) has been working for the company since 1997. At age 25, he became CEO of Riedel Crystal of America, and proved his talent for management, building up North America to become the largest export market for Riedel. In addition, Maximilian has also made an excellent name for himself across the globe as a designer of decanters and glasses. In 2004 he showed his creative talent when he designed the “O” Series, consisting of stemless, varietal specific wine glasses. He designed the “first free” formed Riedel handmade decanter Cornetto which was the birth of a wide collection of “free formed” decanter designs. He has since been awarded numerous design awards. Maximilian Riedel was instrumental in developing the Riedel strategy for online sales, which have become the brand´s most important sales channel for “direct to con-
sumer” business. On July 1 2013, Maximilian was handed the management of Tiroler Glashütte and its worldwide subsidiaries by Georg J. Riedel. Since then he has been leading the company through challenging times with great finesse and success and meeting the requirements that range from sustainability to increasing the efficiency of production and logistics through to Covid-19. Laetizia Riedel Röthlisberger (born 1974) is an attorney and sits on the family board. She is advising on legal matters for the family, the companies, the Riedel headquarter and the Riedel subsidiaries. She specialises in business law, design protection and copyright. Laetisia, mother of three boys manages the worldwide brand names and rights of the Riedel Group.
umlaut 31
IWSC: Top 15 German white wines, f By Stuart Peskett
G
ermany is home to some of the finest wines on the planet but its vinous charms have remained a secret to many, especially in the UK. There are numerous reasons for this: the labels are often indecipherable (unless you speak the language); it’s not immediately obvious whether the wine will be dry or sweet, which deters some; and the flood of sub-standard German wine into the UK in the 1970s and 1980s (think Blue Nun, Hock and Liebfraumilch) tarnished its reputation, creating an impression that its wines were cheap and not particularly cheerful. But people are finally starting to realise what Germany has to offer. It makes incredible Riesling in a range of styles, the best of which can age for decades; its Pinot Gris (aka Grauburgunder) is a world away from the vapid Pinot Grigio found elsewhere; and its Pinot Noir (Spät-
burgunder) is highly underrated, offering similar red-fruited elegance as its lauded neighbour in Burgundy but at a considerably cheaper price. Compared with the big bruisers of the wine world, German wines are at the lighter end of the spectrum, making them elegant, aromatic and food-friendly (they work wonderfully well with Asian cuisine, for example). The list of German IWSC award-winners gives an ideal snapshot of what the country is capable of. Trophy winner Ungsteiner Weilberg GG Riesling 2017 from Karl Schaefer is a textbook Riesling; Max Mann’s Pinot Blanc 2019 shows off the grape’s floral, fruity character; and Villa Wolf’s Library Release Wachenheimer Goldbächel Riesling 2012 is a perfect example of how this first-rate variety blossoms with age
The International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC) is proud to set the international benchmark for quality, standing out in the crowded world of drinks competitions with over 50 years of experience and hundreds of global experts – including buyers, producers, distillers, sommeliers, distributors and influencers – judging wines and spirits.
Frei Körper Kultur Rot 2018 Rheinhessen Germany £22.50 stone, sandstone and clay. Crying out for German sausage, hot dogs (don’t forget the fries!) or homemade burgers.
“
“
Presented in a one litre bottle! An intensely purple blend of Pinot Noir, Sankt Laurent, Merlot and Portugieser from vines grown variously on lime-
www.guestwines.com
from Riesling to Silvaner Best German wines as rated by IWSC experts Nordheimer Vögelein Orange Silvaner 2014 Divino Nordheim Thüngersheim A gingery cider nose with rounded notes of sap, honey and peach skin balanced with distinctive smokiness. Clearly defined, the citric palate is concentrated and spicy, with tannic grip and engaging undertones of English golden ale on the enduring finish. 13.3%
Pinot Blanc 2019 Max Mann A supremely elegant nose of white flowers and orange zest with malty characters, focused mineral top notes and scant salinity. Fully realised palate displaying ripe stone fruits, apple, lime juice and delicate spice balanced by fresh acidity and yeasty undertones. 12%
Ungsteiner Weilberg GG Riesling 2017 Weingut Karl Schaefer Intent, confident and perfectly paced, nose shows the way with citrus and tropical notes then palate embraces in lavish, glowing ripe peach and mango richly balanced with Christmas cake and sparklers of acidity. Poised with handsome typicity. 13.3%
umlaut 33
Charakter F. Nordheimer Vögelein Muskat Silvaner Spätlese 2015 Divino Nordheim Thüngersheim Sensational waxy petrol characteristics highlighting beautiful typicity. The palate is vibrant and fresh with intense minerality, kerosene and a streak of lime sharpness. 13.5%
Charakter F. Nordheimer Vögelein Silvaner Spätlese 2011 Divino Nordheim Thüngersheim Ripe exotic fruits revealing lifted aromatics and honey blossom. Textured and ripe with a savoury biscuity palate, dense dried apricot and peach richness with a spicy bite. 14%
Spätlese Riesling Reh Kendermann Autumn baked apples with delicious spice weighs down fleshy body accented with ripe peach nose and cherry hints. Complex and rounded, traditional style. 9%
34 umlaut
Library Release Wachenheimer Goldbächel Riesling 2012 Weingut Villa Wolf This wine has big dimensions and maturity with gorgeous frangipane fanning out alongside honeysuckle brushed red apple. Steady, weighty development marches towards lengthy finish. 13%
Charakter F. Steillage Escherndorfer Lump Riesling Spätlese 2016 Divino Nordheim Thüngersheim Forward ripe red apple on intense fruity palate with shimmers of fine maturity. The mouth is vibrant with gentle, mid-length finish. 14%
Charakter F. Steillage Escherndorfer Lump Riesling Spätlese 2017 Divino Nordheim Thüngersheim A gently complex nose opens out to crisp, fresh palate with good concentration of fleshy, stone fruit and generous ginger. Exquisite style with focus and character. 12.7%
umlaut 35
Kleine Kapelle Pinot Grigio 2019 Peter Mertes KG Weinkellerei A delicate nose of white stone fruit and passion fruit, showing beautiful typicity. Elegantly balanced displaying fresh savoury acidity and juicy fruit with an engaging finish. 12%
Ungsteiner Herrenberg GG Riesling 2017 Weingut Karl Schaefer Confident candied lemon peel leads with succulent tropical fruits adding restrained weight to the palate. Well balanced with fine acidic backbone in elegant style. 12.3%
Charakter F. Alte Reben Thüngersheimer Johannisberg Riesling Spätlese 2018 Divino Nordheim Thüngersheim Vibrant lemon-forward smoky citrus expresses against ripples of minerality and background of satisfying chalk texture. A crisp, compact wine with a smart, short finish. 14.2%
36 umlaut
Charakter F. Sponti Nordheimer Vögelein Silvaner Spätlese 2014 Divino Nordheim Thüngersheim An alluringly floral nose of sweet apricot, waxy honey and hints of white truffle. Rich and full, with balanced acidity and a white pepper finish. 13%
Riesling 2019 Tesco Ripples of big, pineapple and lush stone fruit marvellously balanced with gently gritty minerality and silky acacia honey. Intricate nose and good weight throughout. 11%
Ockfener Bockstein Alte Reben Riesling 2018 Weingut Reverchon Clean citrus nose with tropical undertones and powerful yet reined in palate of fresh pink grapefruit, peach and quince. Delightful light florals and glittering acidity. Skilfully balanced with nice finish. 12.6%
umlaut 37
Max Mann winemaker Dominik Meyer
IWSC: Trophy profile - Max Mann Pi
38 umlaut
inot Blanc 2019
By Stuart Peskett
R
iesling may make most of the headlines when it comes to German wine, but Pinot Blanc (aka Weissburgunder) is starting to make waves. It’s an aromatic, characterful variety that varies between elegant and mineral-tinged all the way to full, rich oakiness.
Pinot Blanc is taken very seriously in Germany, where it’s regarded as a high-class, food-friendly variety. One of its best exponents is Max Mann, a producer based in Rheinhessen, a region bordered by Rheingau to the north, Pfalz to the south and Nahe to the west.
and why German wine should be on everyone’s lips. Tell us about the history and background of Max Mann… Max Mann was a wine trader/negociant based in Trier/Mosel. His company was taken over by the Moselland co-operative. The Max Mann range was created as an export range built on the value of its founder – a mid-tier priced range of modernly vinified authentic German varietals. What is your winemaking philosophy?
Mann makes wines across all three regions, including Rheinhessen Riesling and Pinot Noir in Pfalz, but its the Pinot Blanc 2019 from the Nahe (pictured above) that has won an IWSC Trophy this year. Bottled under screwcap at a modest 12% abv, this is what the IWSC judges thought of it: “A supremely elegant nose of white flowers and orange zest with malty characters, focused mineral top notes and scant salinity. Fully realised palate displaying ripe stone fruits, apple, lime juice and delicate spice balanced by fresh acidity and yeasty undertones.”
To create modern, fresh and affordable wines, and to show the world the modern side of German wines: dry, elegant and extremely good value for money.
Here, winemaker Dominik Meyer explains the Max Mann approach to winemaking,
It works equally well on its own as a social drink or to accompany light dishes.
What is the best piece of advice you have been given and how did you use that in your winemaking? Quality will prove itself every time. Focus on quality and it will be your best marketing tool. How can people best enjoy your wine?
umlaut 39
IWSC: Top Austrian wines - from Grü
There are those who love Austrian wine, and those who haven’t yet discovered it – but everyone remembers the scandal of the 1980s that has affected this ancient winemaking country for a generation or more. It was discovered that bulk wine producers had been adding diethylene glycol (a component of antifreeze) to their wines in order to give them mouthfeel and sweetness. Austria is finally ridding itself of this reputation,
40 umlaut
which is a wonderful thing because it produces some of the world’s most sublime white wines. Austria’s wine-growing regions hug the country’s eastern borders with the Czech Republic at the northern end to Slovenia in the south. The climate is continental, with hot summers and very cold winters; during the ripening season days are long, hot and dry, and nights are cold
üner Veltiner to Riesling
– the holy grail for Austrian winemakers striving for acidity and fresh aromas. And acidity and freshness, and delicious bright fruit flavours, are what Austrian wine delivers, in a package that rarely comes in higher than about 12.5% ABV. Grüner Veltiner, which covers a spectrum from bone-dry and mineral to ripe and lusciously sweet, is Austria’s signature grape but its climate is perfect for Riesling, and there are also some excel-
lent Pinot Noirs to be found. Our judges’ descriptors perfectly summarise the delights on offer: “expressive”, “intense”, “poised”, “harmonious”, “exuberant”. Each one of these wines is a superb expression of what this unique terroir can produce. If you already love Austrian wine then you need no convincing. If you haven’t discovered it yet, this is where you start.
umlaut 41
Ried Kirchberg Grüner Veltliner 2019 Weingut Hirtl A generous example with a juicy, fruit-driven core. Notes of white lily, blossom and honeysuckle support the fresh apricot and citrus flavours. Characterful with great length and a sweet, peppery finish. 12.5%
Weingut Stift Klosterneuburg 2019 A sophisticated example with an expressive peach, apricot and green apple character. Great complexity with balanced acidity and a long, bright finish. 13%
Blauer Zweigelt 2019 Domäne Baumgartner An intense medley of ripe black fruits, kirsch and sweet spices. Vibrant acidity on the palate with lifted herbal notes. 13.5%
42 umlaut
Grüner Veltliner 2019 Lenz Moser A poised offering with a core of peach, lime and blossom notes. The palate is balanced with great acidity and mouth-watering spice, which carries through onto the lingering finish. 12.5%
Ära Grüner Veltliner 2019 Peter Mertes KG Weinkellerei A youthful and harmonious offering with a stone fruit core and bright, sherbet notes. The palate is light with refreshing zesty character and a touch of minerality. 13%
Fundstück Reserve Grüner Veltliner 2019 W. Baumgartner A warming spiced ginger backbone encased in ribbons of lemon curd, candied apple and light stone fruit flavours. Delicious with a burst of citrus-fuelled acidity and a long finish. 13.5%
umlaut 43
Ried Dechant Alte Reben Grüner Veltliner 2018 Weingut Rabl An exuberant example with rich tropical fruit and lemon curd notes on the nose. The palate has a solid, ripe, citrus character with good acidity and a creamy texture on the finish. 13.5%
Ried Käferberg Alte Reben Grüner Veltliner 2018 Weingut Rabl A fresh, lemon-focused example with mineral notes and stone fruit. A touch of creaminess on the palate balances the bright acidity. 13.5%
Ried Schenkenbichl Alte Reben Riesling 2018 Weingut Rabl A refined offering with an elegant mineral and smoke character. Notes of peach and lemon peel run throughout with great finesse and precision. A refreshing style. 13%
44 umlaut
Selection Zweigelt 2019 Lenz Moser Juicy strawberry, cherry and peach on the nose, with freshness and lift. The palate is driven by red fruit. Charming with some personality. 11.5%
Reserve Pinot Noir 2018 Weingut Zantho A refined and complex example with a core of ripe forest berries and a touch of savoury minerality. Dark, vibrant and balanced. 13.5%
Meet the Weinmeisters
guestwines.com
umlaut 45
InPiThenk S
everal major media outlets are currently reporting that the US singer Pink raves about German wines. The US star also made Riesling headlines last year. It is clear that this 41-year-old rockstar has found her preferred grape variety: “I have a T-shirt that says: If you don’t like Riesling, you’re a ‘damn’ idiot.”
Pink would like to visit Germany’s wine regions. “I love German wine,” says the mother of two, whose music concerts have brought her to the top of the entertainment business. According to numerous press reports, Pink “definitely wants to visit the wine regions of Germany,” as she has never been there before. In July 2019 before one of her concerts in Stuttgart, the singer (“Who Knew”, “So What”) visited a
46 umlaut
“I love German wine!” local wine bar largely unrecognised, and was just as enthusiastic about Riesling then. The real name of the multiple Grammy award winner is Alecia Moore.
Germany awards
Top Rosé Wines
I
n February, the German Wine Institute (DWI) invited 15 experts from 15 different countries to select “Germany’s Best Rosé wines and Sparkling wines 2020” from a total of approximately 200 entries. On March 23 the winners were honoured by DWI managing director, Monika Reule, via video message. In the sparkling wine category, the judges selected the 2017 Pinot Noir Rosé Brut from the Wine and Sekt Estate Wilhelmshof in Siebeldingen, Pfalz. Second place went to the Pinot Noir Rosé Brut from the Eymann winery in Gönnheim, Pfalz, followed by the 2015 Le Grand Rosé Extra Brut from the Schloss Sommerhausen wine estate in the Franconian town of Sommerhausen. Amongst the rosé wine
producers, the Braunewell-Dinter team from Essenheim in Rheinhessen, was awarded the best rosé for their wine “der Rosé“. In second place was the 2018 Rosé Fumé from Weingut Dr. Heger in Ihringen,
Baden. Third place went to the Johanninger wine estate in Biebelsheim, Rhinehessen for its Spätburgunder & Frühburgunder Rosé from the Kreuznacher Junker vineyard. The international judges were pleasantly surprised by the quality and stylistic
diversity of the German rosés. “We set out to surprise with our Rosé focus this year,” explained DWI Managing Director Monika Reule.
“Many experts, especially abroad, are not yet aware of how much the style of German rosé wines has changed in recent years. Today they are much more fruit driven, full of character and are commonly found in the premium sector. They are also excellent menu accompaniments and no longer perceived purely as summer wines,” says Reule. Simon Field MW represented the UK as a judge for the competition and reported on German rosé wines in an article for The Buyer, noting how the style is striving for its own identity.
umlaut 47
M
l l e k n e H f o y r A centu
ade in Wiesbaden, at home in all over the world. Henkell is the international star and best seller when it comes to exporting German sparkling wine culture. The radiant and characterful brand can be found globally in more than 100 countries whenever life’s finest moments are celebrated.
It all began with an idea. Mainz wine merchant Adam Henkell discovered the fine art of champagne-making in France. Back at his home, he successfully managed the “marriage” of the French art of cuvée and the art of German cellar-mastery. In 1856, he started making outstanding sparkling wine following the French example and this marked the beginning of a unique success story. Famous all over the world for quality of life, enjoyment and virtuoso sparkling wine production, even at the end of the 19th century, Henkell was an export pioneer and market leader and, in the 1950s, it played an important role in the German economic miracle. Back then and today, the best base wines and perfect technical skills of German and French cellarmasters guarantee its inimitable flavour and consistent high quality. Henkell - cosmopolitan, but still proud to display its origins on its label in the form of the golden fleur-de-lis from the coat of arms of its home town.
1965
WORLDWIDE
“Made in Germany” has become synonymous with top quality throughout the world.
1973
ROARING TIMES
An elegant world (which still carries a hint of “flower power”) forms the centre of the Henkell advertisement.
48 umlaut
1906
LIVE FIRING
One of the early advertising motives for Henkell Trocken was also political - The sparkling wine canon on a ship’s deck aimed at the sparkling wine tax which Kaiser Wilhelm II levied in order to expand his fleet.
advertisements 1935
1936
1951
Piccolo – the busy little waiter was one of the dominant advertising characters for Henkell Trocken in the 1930s and 1940s. The popular little figure (designed by Fred Overbeck) lent its name to the 0.2 l bottle, the Henkell Trocken Piccolo.
Henry Maier was his creator: The “Gentleman in Black” became the distinctive brand symbol for Henkell Trocken from the 1930s. From that time on, he accompanied the big German brand of sparkling wine for several decades – only his outfit was modified and updated
Post-war Henkell Trocken advertising was launched with this Christmas motif and the Gentleman in Black. The problem during this era: At the beginning of the 1950s, a high sparkling wine tax was charged – the so-called war surcharge which turned sparkling wine into a luxury product.
HUGE SUCCESS
DEBUT
FESTIVE
2009 TO LIFE
Under the motto “To life” the brand presents itself as a sparkling ambassador of pleasure and joie de vivre.
1987
A BIG APPEARANCE
The last campaign of the Red Series shows oversized symbols of festive occasions: the Henkell Trocken magnum bottle makes its debut.
umlaut 49
SPREADING
d r o w the
T
he German Wine Institute is asking leading lights of the international wine scene seven key questions on German wine. The interview series starts with Jancis Robinson MW, probably the most famous wine journalist in the world. Awarded a Riesling Fellow in 2013, she has been spreading her conviction of German Riesling with great enthusiasm ever since and has thus made a major contribution to its positive image change. 1. Which was the first German wine you ever tasted and when? This must have been a very long time ago!
Probably in the house in outside Interlaken belonging to a Professor at Freiburg of my acquaintance. After a very noisy three-generation family dinner he would withdraw
Reh Kendermann Terroir Riesling Kalkstein 2018, Pfalz Germany £10.62
“
“
This has a certain tight minerality and lean, taut body which lends great finesse and elegance. Showing refreshing lemon and grapefruit aromas with a citrus-fresh twist on the finish in its youth, the wine will develop with time, showing more evolved flavours of baked apple, honey and
ripe melon, but still with a bracing lick of well-integrated acidity.
www.guestwines.com
to the sitting room and get a bottle of his beloved Mosel from his wooden Truhe. It was probably a J J Prüm and it was always an honour to be invited to share the bottle with him. This would have been the early 1970s. 2. What was your most memorable moment with German wine?
4. What would be your desert island bottle of German wine and why? II see that I have nine German wines in our tasting notes database on JancisRobinson. com of 200,000+ to which I gave a perfect score: 20! So how about Steinberger Riesling 1921? Because I’m never likely to encounter it again.
Probably when we were filming Jancis Robinson’s Wine Course in Germany in 1994. Sitting with Manfred Prüm (again!) on a terrace sipping a great wine from the 1940s which had to be co-ordinated with a helicopter overhead. (The pre-drone age…) There was also the wonderful dinner at the British Embassy in Paris in 1995 to celebrate half a century after the Second World War with a dinner of magnificent 1945 wines. The Scharzhofberger 1945 presented by Egon Müller himself (after of the current one) with stories of the neglected state of the vineyards then was truly memorable. 3. What is your favourite place within Germany’s wine regions and why?
5. Do you have a favourite German dish, and the ideal wine to pair with it? No!
6. Who would you like to share a glass of German wine with and why?
is
The British embassy, Par
I hate choosing favourites! Chez KP Keller is a good place to be. You can be sure of good food, good company and great wines from all over the world as well as from the home team.
I’d like to share a glass of one of the many great Spätburgunders now being produced with Lalou Bize-Leroy of Domaine Leroy to show her there is life outside Burgundy!
7. Which German wine would you love to taste because you have not had the chance yet? The 2020s.
umlaut 51
German Wines Online umlaut wines is keen to support all those who are championing German wine across the UK. Please see below, for a comprehensive list of retailers, developed by Wines of Germany, that will deliver German wine direct to your door. LONDON 161 Albion Wine Shippers Amathus Drinks ** Berkmann Wine Cellars Blanco & Gomez Wine Merchants Ltd Connaught Cellars Corney & Barrow D Vine Cellars Davy’s Wine Merchants Drop Wine * Ellis Wines Forest Wines Furanxo * in Hackney, Highbury, Islington Hedonism Honest Grapes ** Humble Grape ** Jascots Jeroboams Justerini & Brooks Lea & Sandeman Newcomer Wines Noble Fine Liquor Philglas & Swiggot Planet of the Grapes Ltd Soho Wine The Good Wine Shop The Mountgrove Bothy The Sampler The Vineking The Vintner The Whisky Exchange The Wine Tasting Shop * The Winery Uncharted Wines Uncorked Vinoteca Vintage Wines
52 umlaut
MIDLANDS Cadman Fine Wines Connolly’s Wine Merchants Ltd ** Dronfield Wine World * Evington´s Wine Merchants Loki Wines ** Nickolls & Perks Sandhams Wine Weavers of Nottingham SOUTH EAST Alexander Hadleigh Wine Merchants Amps Fine Wines Caviste Hennings Wine Quercus Wines Secret Cellar Stone, Vine & Sun The General Wine Company The Solent Cellar The Wine Barn The Wine Reserve SOUTH WEST Appellation Nation Averys of Bristol Eynsham Cellars Christopher Piper Wines Farthinghoe Fine Wine Grape & Grind Le Vignoble Novel Wines Peter Osborne Fine Wines SJ Wines Stroud Wine Company The Clifton Cellars The Old Garage * The Oxford Wine Company EAST Cambridge Wine Merchants ** Noel Young Wines Solaris Wines The Imperial Wine Company Thirsty Cambridge Waples Wines **
German Wines Online
NORTH EAST Bon Coeur Fine Wines Guest Wines Harrogate Fine Wine Company
Woodwinters
YORKSHIRE AND THE HUMBER Latitude Wine Ltd House of Townend Martinez Wines Mitchells Wine Merchants Roberts and Speight Vinceremos
NORTHERN IRELAND KWM Wines & Spirits NATIONAL RETAILERS AdVINture Wines Alpine Wines Howard Ripley Wines Laithwaite’s Wines Lay & Wheeler Low Intervention Majestic Pull the Cork ** Red Squirrel Wine Roberson Wines Savage Vines Simply Wines Direct Slurp SWIG The Fizz Company The Little Fine Wine The Wine Society Vagabond Wines Virgin Wines Waitrose Cellar WinesWithAttitude Yapp Brothers
SCOTLAND Cork & Cask
* local delivery only ** social wine tastings, webinars
NORTH WEST Chester Beer & Wine Cork of the North* Corks Out Harvey Leonard’s Wine & Ale* Kwoff Wine Shop Reserve Wines WALES Cheers Wine Merchants Fine Wine Direct Gales of Llangollen James Fearon Wines Mumbles Fine Wines
umlaut 53
kt:
Pu n
n e t u n i M f Fün
QUIZ
DID YOU KNOW THE ENGLISH* MAKE WINE?
W
hen the name of England is mentioned in connection with wine production, many pepole in the industry and those consumers outside of the business are surprised about its existence. We asked a number of German and Austrian winemakers if they had heard of wine production across the English Channel. Almost 30 responded with their views.
We asked: 1/ Wussten Sie, dass englischer Wein hergestellt wurde? / Did you know that English wine was made? All respondents were aware of the existence of English wine. 2/ Haben Sie schon einmal englischen Wein getrunken? / Have you ever drunk English wine? All but three had tasted English wine. “The first time was about 35 years ago. My father visited a wine restaurant in the south of the
54 umlaut
UK and brought home a bottle of Müller Thurgau and I think it was Schönburger. Since then, many different sparkling wines from Nyetimber to Hoffmann & Rathbone (my UK importer has this sparkling wine house in its range),” said Johannes Hirsch of Weingut Hirsch, Austria. 3/ Würde es Sie überraschen, dass mancher englische Sekt bei Blindverkostungen den besten Champagner geschlagen hat? / Would it surprise you that many an English sparkling wine has beaten the best Champagne in blind tastings? Around half of respondents were surprised at England’s success. One went so far as to note that “the soil of the Champagne extends under the [Channel] to England.” 4/ Haben Sie schon einmal englischen Wein in Deutschland oder Österreich im Handel gesehen? / Have you ever seen English wine on sale in Germany or Austria? Some half of respondents have seen exam-
ples of English wine sold in their country. 5/ Wenn Deutschland ein Produzent der Alten Welt ist und die Vereinigten Staaten ein Produzent der Neuen Welt, wie würden Sie England beschreiben? / If Germany is an Old World producer and the United States is a New World producer, how would you describe England? This question produced some very interesting answers. The most popular description with a third of respondents was ‘Old World’. However, a couple of respondents answered ‘New World’, while one answered: ‘New’ Old World. More intriguing were answers that described England as ‘New Wave’, ‘Third World’, ‘European with Fingerprints’, ‘As a Link’ and lastly, as ‘Wild’. 6/ Wenn ich Ihnen eine Flasche englischen Weines geben würde, würden Sie sie probieren? / If I gave you a bottle of English wine, would you try it? In what will be good news for any English vineyards reading this, 100% of respondents would willingly try it. 7/ Wenn Sie nach Großbritannien kommen, würden Sie eine Flasche englischen Wein bestellen? / If you came to the UK, you would order a bottle of English wine. Again, almost every winemaker would order a bottle of English wine if they came to these shores.
Interested In Writing About German & Austrian Wine?
Get in touch James graham editor umlautwines@gmail.com
* Yes, we know that this official designation also includes Welsh and Scottish wines. Bureaucrats, don’tcha love them.
@umlautwinesmag umlaut 55
The wine on the Tyne
“
Ruth & Kelvyn of Guest Wines bring their own unique style and refreshing approach to inspire others to take up their own personal wine journey. Their enthusiasm and passion for wine is just what the North East needs. Oz Clarke
“
www.guestwines.com
