lucie vincini
I have ideas of decadence that I want to push and subvert in my collections.This collection is called training class, and it is focused on being two fingers up to a wrong’un democracy. I looked into London sub-cultures and was really intrigued by how their environment and division of class in neighbourhoods seemed to distinguish their dress codes. I wanted men to feel like they are dressing up yet feel confident in pushing the boundaries - it’s all about creating aspirational dress in my mind. The wearer needs to feel ‘blokish’, but still hold the credibility of other men wanting to put the clothes on.
I went to Epsom UCA to do my BA and my lecturer there had been a student at RCA in the 80s, he was such a great inspiration. I think lecturers naturally push you in the right direction when they see something in you. Studying at RCA allows your confidence to build naturally through your work. On a BA (hons) degree, you are constantly challenged and questioned about what you are doing to prove that your opinion is worth something, whereas here you gain respect and learn to grow. I didn’t have any training in
menswear but I slowly started to learn from really strong lecturers. During my time at Epsom I was doing so many different things, I wasn’t sure where I wanted to go. It was only after I did a menswear internship that I thought, “This is where I want to go with my designs.” I don’t know if it was my style of drawing or the fact that I am more interested in illustrating men and the male figure that drew me into menswear more. I love the transition from womenswear to menswear. . .I’m also a little masculine myself so I think that transfers into my designs. Elton John in his tracksuits is one of my major style icons. George Michael too. Andre Leon Talley is the one though, he is amazing. Andre is my muse - obviously I love my casuals, but in my head when I am designing I picture Andre. He’s always entering my mind. I went to his talk in Oxford and I just wanted to sit and listen to him talk all day. He was wearing a big gown, and as soon as I saw him I knew I wanted him to wear my clothes. His styling being quite ‘out there’ also helps me justify my work, because I think “If he wears it, then I know there are men out there that enjoy these things.” It is a comforting
re-assurance of my work. I like a larger guy. I am holding castings now for the final show and I just want a guy who has inner confidence, whether he is big or has imperfections. I just want him to have the honesty within himself to be confident in my clothes. A proper bloke. Every man should have a skirt in his wardrobe. I’m a little obsessed with men’s skirts after I made a kilt for my first collection. I really love the silhouettes of skirts on men. I was covered in black resin for Lady GaGa. At my internship at Alexander McQueen, I was given the job of casting roses in resin to make a head piece for Lady GaGa. Having to be pristine to work at Liberty, turning up covered head to toe in resin didn’t go down very well. It didn’t come off for two and a half weeks. The three things I want to have achieved by this time next year are clear to me. Most importantly I want to find a job (It’s about bloody time). I want to graduate and I want to be happy. Just being in a place where I feel happy and challenged would be perfect.